# Pedals and torque wrench



## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

Hi there,


Maybe a stupid question but i just started MTB and i wanted to do some mechanics on my own. I just bought new pedals and a cheap 13.5 to 100nm torque wrench (a tekton around 50$) so i can install them. But look like the torque wrench will only be useful for one pedal.. it can't torque anticlockwise. Now i am wondering if i should return it since i will probably won't use it much for now. Not planning to disassemble my bike any soon or do very heavy maintenance on the bike but i though it was needed for pedals to avoid overtight or overloose them so should i return it ? or since i have it should i keep it ? my concern is more how useful it will be in the long run... also it is recommanded to use one to install pedals ?


Thanks!


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

pedals are not real crucial IMO. they don't require extremely accurate torque. just make sure you grease the threads then just crank them down good and tight.


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## jon23 (Jul 7, 2015)

I would personally exchange it for one that goes lower nm. I have the same brand and it works great for all the other parts. Like BENKD29 said, I don't think pedals are that crucial unless they are going into carbon, grease helps get them unscrewed again when the time comes.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

I use a torque wrench on almost everything on my bike that is practical but i usually don't bother with that on my personal bike's pedals. Grease up the threads and make them TIGHT. Just don't jump on the wrench.

A torque wrench with lower, more precise setting will be more useful for your bike. It is rare that you will need more than 35 Nm on a bicycle.


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## TBarnaby (Aug 1, 2008)

Given the thread direction, they can't come loose from normal use. Hand tight is good enough IMO.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

maybe I am being pedantic, but, to clarify, most people know "hand tight" to mean "as tight as you can get something using only your hand." pedals, of course, should be quite a bit tighter than that. get them hand tight, then give them a nice firm twist with a wrench that gives your some leverage to multiply the torque. most manufacturers prescribe around 30 foot-pounds of torque on their pedals, which should make you strain your arm just a bit.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

Yeah, pedals should be tighter than just "hand tight" and you don't need a torque wrench.

In terms of grease, I prefer using anti-seize on oedal threads and pretty much anythign threaded on the bike.

Don't buy "anti-seize from the bike shop, too expensive. Get a container from Wal-mart, cheap and will last for years for all your bike tightening needs. Since I switched over from grease to anti-seize I have never had a problem getting pedals off. In my experience, grease does not last as long.


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## knutso (Oct 8, 2008)

Most cranks will have a pretty positive stop once the pedal is flush. Over tightening can easily strip the threads on lightweight cranks since they are just cut into the alloy. Be mindful to use a washer if your cranks came with one, the constant force of pedaling can actually dig the pedal into the arm, causing a crack and failure.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

cjsb said:


> In my experience, grease does not last as long.


true, as evidenced by the experience of trying to wash that stuff off your skin. or worse, your clothes. that stuff STAYS PUT.


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## cjsb (Mar 4, 2009)

mack_turtle said:


> true, as evidenced by the experience of trying to wash that stuff off your skin. or worse, your clothes. that stuff STAYS PUT.


Yeah, i buy the boxes of latex gloves from costco for working on the bike, primarily becauae of the anti-seize


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

Personally I woudn't bother with using a torque wrench on pedals but out of curiosity is this torque wrench one of the "click" type with a standard ratchet head? If so are you using a crowfoot open end socket for the pedals? Note if this is the case, you "may" need to adjust the set torque value to achieve desired actual value due to increased distance from center of rotation that may be added by the crowfoot. I say "may" because it also depends on how the crowfoot is attached to the torque wrench.

Also note that inexpensive torque wrenches generally have a high error tolerance and that rated error may actually increase if you are setting the torque value at the lower end of the scale. In other words a 13 - 100 wrench is likely more accurate with values in the 80 to 100 range than the same wrench would be for settings in the 13 to 25 range. So, if a typical value for a bike would be in the 35 range you'd probably get better results by using a wrench rated from 10 to 50 than one rated from 10 to 100. 

The margin of error is also usually higher in one direction vs the other, say +/4% if used clockwise but +/-6% if used counter clockwise. (I realize the OP's wrench only can be used clockwise).

With all this in mind, use common sense when tightening your fasteners and don't place too much reliance on the torque wrench. If it feels too tight even though the wrench hasn't clicked, it probably is and next thing you'll find is a stripped thread or broken fastener.

Good luck.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

I don't know that I ever used a torque wrench on pedals until Park released the TWB-15. I now know I had been over tightening pedals, in some cases by a lot (which is actually easier to do then you'd think). I now use a torque wrench whenever I install pedals*, even if just for a quick test ride, because it's easy and the correct thing to do.

*At work. I will admit to occasionally being lazy with my own bikes.


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

Thanks for all the reply.

That the torque wrench i bought. Robot Check

Right now, i have to uninstall the stock pedal already in place, its a wellgo 6$ pedal with flat end they have put so i got a pedal spanner for this. Then i bought anti-seize compound after some research everywhere and my new pedals use a 8mm hex so i bought a big 8mm allen key for this. I wanted to use the torque wrench but i discovered just after i bought it that it wouldn't serve a lots. Even on the pedals it can only do one of both. I guess the right decision would be to return it and later buy a lower torque one.


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

No adjustment to torque setting is needed with a hex socket. I think a Torque wrench than works both directions will set you back more than $50 but could be wrong. Note pedals are the only thing that will require the wrench to work counter clockwise.


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

It seem the Park Tool one won't do it either. I also found alternative.. a Beam wrench that would do both direction. But does anyone used this kind before ? It is a pain the a$$ ? I have heard calibration is a lots easier on these however it is not as easy as a 'clicker' type. But to what extend ?

Robot Check


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

cgrutt said:


> Note pedals are the only thing that will require the wrench to work counter clockwise.


and bottom brackets


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

Shayne said:


> and bottom brackets


Serious ? Good to know.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

the right cup of a BSA bottom bracket is left-hand threaded. having a torque wrench what can turn both directions is probably a good idea for pedals and BB. I think mine was less than $50 and works fine, probably from Harbor Freight Tools. I would not recommend HF for tools you use all the time or in a shop, but for something like a big torque wrench you only use occasionally, they should be fine.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

IME grease is good and too tight is much better than too loose.

I agree with bpn that correct torque is best but the ~40nm many manufactures suggest is a fair amount of heft. I never used torque wrenches on pedals and most likely over-tightened thousands of them with no ill effects. 9/16 is a big thread and can take a lot of abuse, but running them a little loose can destroy a crankarm pretty quick.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

It doesn't do CCW? I don't have Tekton, but the wrenches I do have are all bidirectional, click, electronic and beam types. Perhaps it's only calibrated in the CW direction?


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

Lone Rager said:


> It doesn't do CCW? I don't have Tekton, but the wrenches I do have are all bidirectional, click, electronic and beam types. Perhaps it's only calibrated in the CW direction?


Well it can do CCW and CW but only mesure torque CW. What is your ?


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

Nothing wrong with a beam style wrench. Mine use dials, same concept. (I also have the click style and electronic for big stuff).


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## NoradMTB (Jan 31, 2016)

cgrutt said:


> Nothing wrong with a beam style wrench. Mine use dials, same concept. (I also have the click style and electronic for big stuff).


Yeah, im all set now i returned the click one and got a beam one doing 0-800 Inch Pounds. Sure i could do it without it but i prefered use one to avoid screwing stuff. It can be useful for other application aswell and i will be more confident with it.

I decided to use anti-seize too on the threads.

Thanks for your help all!


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

J.B. Weld said:


> IME grease is good and too tight is much better than too loose.
> 
> I agree with bpn that correct torque is best but the ~40nm many manufactures suggest is a fair amount of heft. I never used torque wrenches on pedals and most likely over-tightened thousands of them with no ill effects. 9/16 is a big thread and can take a lot of abuse, but running them a little loose can destroy a crankarm pretty quick.


I was actually surprised how low the recommended torque was, or rather how tight I was going without a torque wrench. I have not had a single pedal work loose since I started torquing them so the spec seems to be spot on.

True that pedal threads are big but aluminum tends to not love repeated loads and if you swap out your pedals a lot you could do some damage rather quick.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

big_papa_nuts said:


> I was actually surprised how low the recommended torque was, or rather how tight I was going without a torque wrench.


I think a lot of that has to do with the leverage you get with a 14" pedal wrench because the torque specs I've seen on pedals is relatively high. I agree that it's probably easy to (technically) over-torque with a long pedal wrench and that adhering to factory specifications is best but I still stand by my statement of "when in doubt, error on the tight side". I honestly don't believe I've ever damaged a pedal or crankarm thread and I know I've probably over-tightened a bunch of them by a fair amount, including my own which I used to change out frequently.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

I have a park tool pedal wrench, no torque wrench at all. Not nneded imo. I aslo don't buy pedals without wrench flats. Don't use a torque wrench for my bb cups either.


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

jon23 said:


> ...unless they are going into carbon, grease helps get them unscrewed again when the time comes.


Carbon cranks will have a metal insert, you won't be screwing the pedals into carbon.

Hail Satan!


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Finch Platte said:


> Carbon cranks will have a metal threaded sleeve, you won't be screwing the pedals into carbon.
> 
> Hail Satan!


FIFY

And yes this is correct.


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

Finch Platte said:


> Carbon cranks will have a metal insert, you won't be screwing the pedals into carbon.
> 
> Hail Satan!


Could be wrong but don't think he was saying that greese shouldn't be used on carbon (or by implication, that carbon cranks don't have metal). Believe he meant a torque wrench isn't necessary unless the crank is carbon with the idea being you can damage them by over tightening (twist the insert, etc). My read anyway...


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## Finch Platte (Nov 14, 2003)

DIRTJUNKIE said:


> FIFY
> 
> And yes this is correct.


Same difference.

Grainger, threaded insert:









Hail Satan!!!


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I have an inexpensive beam-style torque wrench for crank bolts. $25
I have a 5Nm torque key for things like stem bolts, seatpost binder bolts, and such. About $25, also (I bought a more expensive calibrated one).

I don't use a torque wrench on pedals. Greasing the threads so they don't seize into the cranks is far more important with pedals than getting precise on the tightness of them.

The only other fasteners I get picky about are the fasteners at suspension pivots. The rest of them don't get torqued.


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## Hurricane Jeff (Jan 1, 2006)

+1. Over tightening pedals is one of the most common mistakes that either non bike mechanics or bad bike mechanics make. I just get them slightly over snug. I've never had a pedal come loose in over 43 years(bmx, mtb, road cross, DH) of riding and do my own mechanics on all of them, but have worked on several bikes where the pedals where on so tight, I had to a breaker bar to get them loose.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

Hurricane Jeff said:


> +1. Over tightening pedals is one of the most common mistakes that either non bike mechanics or bad bike mechanics make. I just get them slightly over snug.


Respectfully disagree. As mentioned correct is best but I've never encountered any problems due to exceeding specified torque values for pedals. I have however spent many hours chasing down ticks/creaks only to eventually discover that a slightly loose pedal was the cause, so depending on one's definition of what 'slightly over snug is' under tightening them can potentially be an issue. Also have thrown numerous crankarms in the recycle bin because someone had ridden them with a 'hand tightened' pedal.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

J.B. Weld said:


> Respectfully disagree. As mentioned correct is best but I've never encountered any problems due to exceeding specified torque values for pedals. I have however spent many hours chasing down ticks/creaks only to eventually discover that a slightly loose pedal was the cause, so depending on one's definition of what 'slightly over snug is' under tightening them can potentially be an issue. Also have thrown numerous crankarms in the recycle bin because someone had ridden them with a 'hand tightened' pedal.


So what you're saying is that using a torque wrench on pedals should be common practice?


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## terrasmak (Jun 14, 2011)

Haven't touched a torque wrench to my bike yet. I don't even touch a torque wrench to much on my race car.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

big_papa_nuts said:


> So what you're saying is that using a torque wrench on pedals should be common practice?


It wouldn't be a bad idea for shop situations, consistent quality is a good thing. For myself I'll never use one because as already stated I've never had a single issue due to just tightening them tight. I also wouldn't recommend that an individual buy a special torque wrench just to install pedals because IME exact torque isn't critical for them.


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## car bone (Apr 15, 2011)

The determining factor if you need a torque wrench is how hamfisted you are. And if your bike is made of delicate carpet fiber.


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## Nash04 (Dec 24, 2012)

NoradMTB said:


> Thanks for all the reply.
> 
> That the torque wrench i bought. Robot Check
> 
> Right now, i have to uninstall the stock pedal already in place, its a wellgo 6$ pedal with flat end they have put so i got a pedal spanner for this. Then i bought anti-seize compound after some research everywhere and my new pedals use a 8mm hex so i bought a big 8mm allen key for this. I wanted to use the torque wrench but i discovered just after i bought it that it wouldn't serve a lots. Even on the pedals it can only do one of both. I guess the right decision would be to return it and later buy a lower torque one.


This is a ratcheting torque wrench which can torque in both directions by moving the clicker either to the right or left. You should have a owner manual which will show this.


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## big_papa_nuts (Mar 29, 2010)

You actually don't need a reversible wrench when using a crows foot on pedals. It's hard to explain but you can just use the wrench "backwards".


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## *OneSpeed* (Oct 18, 2013)

car bone said:


> The determining factor if you need a torque wrench is how hamfisted you are. And if your bike is made of delicate *plastic*.


fify


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

Nash04 said:


> This is a ratcheting torque wrench which can torque in both directions by moving the clicker either to the right or left. You should have a owner manual which will show this.


The Tekton 24330 will ratchet in both directions but will only torque clockwise as per manual...


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## cgrutt (Dec 14, 2015)

big_papa_nuts said:


> You actually don't need a reversible wrench when using a crows foot on pedals. It's hard to explain but you can just use the wrench "backwards".


Huh?

EDIT - nevermind it just "clicked" LOL... Just flip the wrench over and it works the opposite direction. Pretty cool!


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

People have trouble torquing small bolts properly. They're easy to overtorque and break. If you're ham fisted, get a torque wrench in a very low range to do stems and small bolts. A torque wrench that starts at 13nm is really basically useless for a bike. 

You'd have to put some effort into installing pedals wrong with a pedal wrench. Use one hand, dont stand on the pedal wrench or hit it with a hammer and you'll be good.


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