# WolfTooth Components Thread



## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

I have no affiliation with them, but thought it would be good to have the info on their products organized into one thread.


Q - Any updates on the ETA of 28T and 30T Sram GXP direct mount rings?

A - From WolfTooth -
"ETA is 8 weeks on those. Our Facebook page is the best place to hear about new products/sizes if you want to subscribe to our news feed there."


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Looks like the 32 and 34 t sram direct mount are in stock. 
I just ordered a 34


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## BacDoc (May 31, 2011)

Running 1X10 with Wolf 34 ring up front on SLX crank, 11-36 XT cassette and Zee RD. Bike is Anthem 29. No chain guard/guide and no dropped chain! Gets the job done.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

BacDoc said:


> Running 1X10 with Wolf 34 ring up front on SLX crank, 11-36 XT cassette and Zee RD. Bike is Anthem 29. No chain guard/guide and no dropped chain! Gets the job done.


Is that zee a clutch type? A friend has been running a standard xo rd with no chain guide and no issues.


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## friz (Dec 2, 2012)

BacDoc said:


> Running 1X10 with Wolf 34 ring up front on SLX crank, 11-36 XT cassette and Zee RD. Bike is Anthem 29. No chain guard/guide and no dropped chain! Gets the job done.


Running the Wolf ring on an SLX crank also, with an SLX Chain, SLX Shadow Plus RD, and SLX cassette. Works flawless. I have even ridden with the clutch disengaged without issue. Sometimes I forget to engage the clutch when I put my bike together. It lives in the way back of my Civic with the wheels removed when not in use. Gave up on using a rack in the Kansas wind. Here is a picture to show some Wolftooth love.


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## BacDoc (May 31, 2011)

Zee is a clutch RD.

I have tried a few 1X options with single speed rings and most worked good but needed some type of guide. Race face and Hope make quality rings and great color selection but ended up needing a chain guard. Wolf rings hold the chain better than any ring I have tried.

The only thing Wolf is missing is color selection but their rings are pretty sano in black.

friz,
Looks great with SLX crank!


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Any complaints about North Shore billet?

They do recommend chain guides, one disadvantage compared to WT, but they are about $20 cheaper and have all sizes in stock. 


Posted via iPhone


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Just finished installing the 34t direct mount on a xo bb30. I know is is supposed to be for gxp, but I always had to shim my chain guide out and run spacers on the chainring inward to have a good chainline. Well after installing the direct mount my chainline is perfect. So their is some cases where this will work with a BB30 crank. 
Now let see the performance without a clutch type derailluer. I am running a bionicon v guide though
Btw I dropped 100 grams


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

Just ordered a 34t direct mount. Will be losing 2 chain rings front derailleur and shifter with this. Will try running my current X9 regular rear derailleur but my LBS has a X0 type 2 that is slightly used waiting for me if I need it. I plan on not doing any guides, I think they look silly but that's totally personal opinion.


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## KMan (Dec 30, 2003)

Will Wolftooth be releasing larger Sram GXP rings - 36T? 
I'm currently running 12-36 cassette w/ a 39 large XO front (never use the small ring). Wanting to switch to a 1x10, but I think dropping to a 36 from the 39 would be plenty.....the 34T will most likely be too small of a ring.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

droanx said:


> Just ordered a 34t direct mount. Will be losing 2 chain rings front derailleur and shifter with this. Will try running my current X9 regular rear derailleur but my LBS has a X0 type 2 that is slightly used waiting for me if I need it. I plan on not doing any guides, I think they look silly but that's totally personal opinion.


I may look silly but the bionicon c guide actually works well eliminating about 85% of all chain slap. If I can get away without having to buy a type 2 I'm all for it.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

I'm wondering when the 30T will be available for my 29'er?


Old enough to know better and old enough not to care. Best age to be.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

ejreyes6 said:


> I may look silly but the bionicon c guide actually works well eliminating about 85% of all chain slap. If I can get away without having to buy a type 2 I'm all for it.


Yea, I used one of those for a bit on my hardtail and ended up not liking it. Still dropped chains and made noise and gave my rear derailleur fits that I didn't care to fix. I've since changed bikes completely though.

I have no problem with what other people use, more power to them, I just like a clean and simple look.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Just finished the first ride using a standard medium cage xo derailluer. I tried dropping the chain. Riding the roughest drops and picking bad lines. Never dropped once. I was running a 34 t Raceface 1 x chainring prior to switching to the Wolftooth ring. This ring is super quiet. 
Impressive


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

ejreyes6- Nice set up :thumbsup:
I've been riding similar on my RDO for the last year but with a take off s2210 BB30(C-dale XO) and MRP Bling ring for GXP with a 10mm spacer ring on drive side and the chainline is good, and an e-13 xcx- st guide.









Regarding your BB30 XO crank, _are you using the 10mm spacer on the drive side _as it appears in your pick from behind? There seems to be a great deal of controversy about the difference between GXP and BB30 chain-lines with single rings offerings, as well as OEM vs after market XO cranks spindle lenghts. It looks like the Wolf GXP ring is dished/offset to the inside, correct? Got an estimate of how much?

The reason I'm asking is that I am intrigued by these Wolftooth rings and may be trying them next after my current Bling wears out.
Thx


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Yes, I'm running the 10mm spacer on the drive side. With the stock bb30 2x Spider I had to shim my e13 guide out with 3 spacers and shim my 34t raceface ring inward about 2 mm just to get a decent chainline. I knew the gxp rings are set more inward compared to the bb30. So I took a chance and ordered the wolftooth direct mount and the chainline is great. By looking at your picture you have the guide out with two spacer and having the 10mm spacer on the drivers side crank. The gxp direct mount should work.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

Just installed my 34t direct mount. Ordered late Monday night, in the mailbox Thursday. Sweet.

No problems installing. I'm going to run my standard non-clutch X9 rear derailleur for a bit and see if it works. No issues shifting on the stand or around the block but we'll see on Saturday when I hit up the local trail.

Here is a picture for your viewing pleasure:


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

I got a 104 BCD 32t to run on my carbon hardtail with a Type 2 X9. The ring is excellent in quality and execution and generally works as intended. That being said, I did drop a chain once at Sea Otter while rocking and rolling down a rutted fireroad, which cost me 30sec in my race. It's the downhill where a million water bottles pile up at the bottom from bouncing out, so that gives you a general idea of how bumpy the trail is. I think the chain wouldn't have dropped if I had shifted to a bigger cog in the back before hitting the downhill, but you generally don't think about these things in the thick of a race...


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## michael_RR (Jan 9, 2012)

hi, can you post a pic with the low gear and one with the large gear, i have bb30 and want to see the chainline



ejreyes6 said:


> Just finished installing the 34t direct mount on a xo bb30. I know is is supposed to be for gxp, but I always had to shim my chain guide out and run spacers on the chainring inward to have a good chainline. Well after installing the direct mount my chainline is perfect. So their is some cases where this will work with a BB30 crank.
> Now let see the performance without a clutch type derailluer. I am running a bionicon v guide though
> Btw I dropped 100 grams
> 
> ...


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

michael_RR said:


> hi, can you post a pic with the low gear and one with the large gear, i have bb30 and want to see the chainline


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## michael_RR (Jan 9, 2012)

Thanks a lot, looks like that in the highest gear its gonna be hard for
The chain, will see this post and see if yours working fine.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

michael_RR said:


> Thanks a lot, looks like that in the highest gear its gonna be hard for
> The chain, will see this post and see if yours working fine.


My drivetrain is dead quiet even in granny. 5th gear on my cassette lines up perfect with the chainring.


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## kubikeman (Jun 4, 2010)

Just got back from my first ride with a Wolf Tooth Components chainring (32 tooth, 104 BCD). It bolted right up with no alignment issues. The trails I rode this morning weren't the roughest, but my drivetrain stayed silent. I'm really happy with it so far :thumbsup:









I have it paired with an XT clutch type rear derailleur, 11-36 Sram 1070 cassette and Sram PC-1091 chain.

UPDATE: Yesterday I rode my normal rocky trails and no dropped chain. I'm sold.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

Got my 34t SRAM direct mount installed and on it's maiden voyage.

Something to note, I am NOT using a clutch derailleur because I'd like to see how it works out.

Today was a wet ride and only got 9.5 miles in due to getting to an impassable flooded section and having to turn around.

Anyways, this is my home trail and on my 2x10 I would drop the chain easily 3-4 times a ride. Well, this ride was perfect! No dropped chains, no issues in that area at all. Very happy with the results, hoping to have many rides like this one.

Here's an "after" picture:


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*New webstore, Lower prices, accepting CCs, and free shipping to Europe*

Hey All, 
We put up some news on FB. We have been working hard on these improvements.

Now that this part of the business is much more streamlined, we can focus on more new products - more sizes, mouting type, non-chainring , etc.


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## literally (Apr 14, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> We put up some news on FB. We have been working hard on these improvements.
> 
> Now that this part of the business is much more streamlined, we can focus on more new products - more sizes, mouting type, non-chainring , etc.


Sorry if i'm missing the obvious somewhere - but what is the chainline for the SRAM direct mount GXP rings?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

32 and 34 GXP DM have a 49mm Chainline right now (same as XX1). 

The 36 and 38 will probably be more like 51mm for chainstay clearance.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Jaks,
Did you shorten you chain as short as possible? If there is low or no chain tension in the smallest cog on the back, the chain will be more likely to drop.

Yours is the first clutch type drop we have heard of.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> We put up some news on FB. We have been working hard on these improvements.
> 
> Now that this part of the business is much more streamlined, we can focus on more new products - more sizes, mouting type, non-chainring , etc.


I checked the FB page, but didn't find any information about a ring that will work with the Middleburn crank arms. Are there plans to do a ring that would work in place of the UNO ring on the standard RS7 and RS8 crank arms, or will it be the X type only? Looks like the workaround would be to get a 4 arm spider from Middleburn with the 106/64 BCD.

Any update on when Middleburn gear might be coming along (besides the blue Snowflake 30T)?

TIA


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey BruceBrown,
Middleburn stuff is out a couple of months, but we are definitely going to do it. We will most likely do both types long term.


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## KMan (Dec 30, 2003)

I see your sold out of the SRAM GXP Cranks - 36T - when will they be available?

Michael



WolfTooth said:


> Hey BruceBrown,
> Middleburn stuff is out a couple of months, but we are definitely going to do it. We will most likely do both types long term.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Kman - 6 to 8 weeks on those. We never actually had them, so the ones coming 6-8 weeks will be the first in that size. We are trying to get the small DM rings in first because there has been so much interest in those.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey BruceBrown,
> Middleburn stuff is out a couple of months, but we are definitely going to do it. We will most likely do both types long term.


Sounds great! I'll be waiting.:thumbsup:


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## KeviChe (Jan 5, 2012)

I just wanted to say how great my Wolftooth 32T is working out. I recently upgraded to 10spd SLX/XT Dynasys with a clutch type derailleur. Though my Chainring was a carryover geared 32T originally for 9 speed. On rough fast trails where I would naturally ratchet back the cranks the chain would fall off all the time. Mind you I had no type of front chainguide to prevent this. Now with the Wolftooth, no dropped chain, and seems to run smoother. Very high quality part that actually delivers as promised! That is becoming ever more rare these days.


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## jclyle (Jun 19, 2012)

How are KMC chains working out? I put about 100 miles on a SRAM 1031 chain while using my WolfTooth 32t without any drops  

Just put a new KMC X10SL chain on and hoping it works as well as the SRAM did.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

jclyle said:


> How are KMC chains working out? I put about 100 miles on a SRAM 1031 chain while using my WolfTooth 32t without any drops
> 
> Just put a new KMC X10SL chain on and hoping it works as well as the SRAM did.


Working great with a kmc x10


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey KeviChe and others -- thanks for the positive feedback! Really appreciate hearing from our customers. We are working hard to ship promptly and get more sizes and interfaces ready. Keep letting us know how they are working.


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## rivertrash (May 31, 2011)

First ride with 36t wolftooth ring and xtr shadow plus rdr. Took of the chain guide and didnt drop a chain. Riding rough and rocky Central Texas limestone. Great product!!


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

The cliche goes something like "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery..." WT has great reviews and customer service, yet everyone complains about the prices. Obviously they never took Econ 101 and read the chapter about Supply v Demand.

As a business owner I'm not a fan of reverse engineering whether a US-based copycat working in a garage with a Haas or an overseas factory pumping out thousands a month. Now there are a handful of similar rings coming out, and most comments are "hope it drops prices." I don't know about that. Locally there is a company making the same type of ring and they promise pricing to be about $40. We'll see about that.

Free enterprise is a great thing. Just need to remove emotion and keep it purely business: SRAM XX1 1x11 Crankset Chainring 1x10 Shimano XTR XT LX SLX Single Speed Ring | eBay


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## Bmann_mtb (Oct 11, 2009)

Just placed an order. .


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Place Dan order for a direct mount 32 on Tuesday. Can't wait to try it.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

Hi wolftooth,
I dont have shadow plus rear der, is it still ok to use wolftooth with only bottom guide like stinger?
Im interested in 32T, and get rid of the top guide.
thanks.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Inter,
The chain security is still very good w/out a shadow plus. In our testing, we have only had a few drops without the clutch type, but they do happen occasionally. The one thing you can do to help this is make sure the chain is as tight as possible so chain tension remains high across all the cogs.
I would suggest trying the ring with no lower guide to see what happens (wouldn't suggest this test in a race situation). If you have issues, either get a low end clutch rear der or put on your bottom guide.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey Inter,
> The chain security is still very good w/out a shadow plus. In our testing, we have only had a few drops without the clutch type, but they do happen occasionally. The one thing you can do to help this is make sure the chain is as tight as possible so chain tension remains high across all the cogs.
> I would suggest trying the ring with no lower guide to see what happens (wouldn't suggest this test in a race situation). If you have issues, either get a low end clutch rear der or put on your bottom guide.


Thanks Wolftooth.
So in your testing, you had no clutch type der and no lower guide / tensioner, had a few drops.
have you tried no clutch type der but with lower guide like stinger or even c-guide? I wonder if that would work.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Yes, very few drops w/ no chain tensioner other than a non-clutch type rear der. When compared to how often people drop a chain with a front der, our testing showed this 1x without a clutch drops the chain less often. Drops happen on very rough terrain when in the smallest cog and when slight quick back pedalling occurs (shifting feet) that causes a reduction in chain tension. 
The way I look at it (for personal use) if I am not racing, the retention is plenty good (better than w/ 2x or 3x) because a chain drop is only a minor annoyance. When racing, I would only use a clutch type.
We have not tested with teh C-guide. If you do, please let us know how it works!


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## dynamicz (Sep 14, 2007)

Wolftooth, thanks for offering such a great product. I am running your 30t on my AM/FR bike and 32t on the 29HT. I did my bet shakedown on both and handled flawlessly. I am even impressed with the sram type 2 rears as well, so quiet. Saved a bunch from taking off the mrp guides/tensioner.


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## inter (Nov 27, 2010)

great info..i may order one someday. bummer, i just bought mrp g2. gotta sell it fast and get wolftooth.
thanks.


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## RenoRacing (Aug 12, 2010)

I'll chime in with my recent(last two days) of experience on the Wolf Tooth direct mount SRAM ring(32t). I was running a MRP Bling Ring and 1x Direct Mount Chain Guide prior to this and had zero complaints with it, other than the looks... So I decided to give the Wolftooth a try in hopes of ditching the chain guide. I am running a standard non-clutch type Sram X9 derailleur. I've ridden two hard days, totaling 30 miles, on the new setup now and have yet to drop a chain. I've been hammering some of the rockiest trails in my area both up and down while shifting like an idiot on purpose just to see what would come of it. The chain has remained glued on the ring! So for now I can't see a reason to upgrade to the Type 2... As some of my bigger races for the year approach I might upgrade, but I'm more than happy with the performance thus far on the old rear derailleur!


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## slyfink (Apr 15, 2004)

I'll add my experience to this thread. I've got at least 10 rides on my setup now: 11-16 XT cassette, Zee RD (it has a clutch), 32 WolfTooth, no chain retention device, on a Mojo HD. Not one dropped chain. I've been riding some pretty rocky terrain, but it's been fairly slow and not much jumping or DH. Yesterday I finally took it out to some of the rockier bigger hills around here, and it performed perfectly. Long, rough DH with jumps landing in rock gardens=no problem. I'm sold. Thanks for the great product WolfTooth.


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## Vitalman (Dec 24, 2012)

Ouch


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Interesting, I just came across this thread and have been thinking of going to 1x10 , but did have a budget in mind. 

I am already running a Shadow Plus Derailleur XTR, and currently have the Shimano XT 3x10 setup, with press fit bottom bracket (M770 XT crankset) on a 2011 Giant Trance. 

If I do go this route with a 32T ring, would my chainline be off to use certain gears? 

Interested to hear some feedback.


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## Vitalman (Dec 24, 2012)

Poor Mathias Fluckiger, guess he will be using a chain guide with his drop stop ring from now on.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Vitalman said:


> Poor Mathias Fluckiger, guess he will be using a chain guide with his drop stop ring from now on.
> View attachment 800373


Hi Vitalman, 
Yeah, we were bummed to see that, and our riders (including Mathias) have not had issues like this previously, including in racing. He had been on them for several weeks, and he must have had confidence in the ring or he would not have ridden it.
The conditions today were brutal no doubt and we have never claimed that the rings are impervious to drops (See FAQ 3 here if you...I am sure you have already seen this though: http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/pages/faq;). The most common cause when a drop does happen is a rock or small stick gets in the teeth or a kick with the heal of the shoe on a tech descent like the one Mathias was going down.

The worst part of the day was seeing Julien's derailleur shatter and Schuters fork and drivetrain. That would have been a good battle to see! Given those failures, I guess Vitalman won't be buying a BMC, XTR, XX1, or DT Swiss fork rear derailleur any time soon either


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## Vitalman (Dec 24, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> The worst part of the day was seeing Julien's derailleur shatter and Schuters fork and drivetrain. That would have been a good battle to see! Given those failures, I guess Vitalman won't be buying a BMC, XTR, XX1, or DT Swiss fork rear derailleur any time soon either


I didn't see any XX1 fail...Absalon was on XTR.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

So, a world class rider that rides their bike as a job made a Wolftooth chainring lose a chain? For a common folk rider like me this affects me how? I'm sure Mathias has more hours on that style chainring than I will get in my first year of owning it. When a world class rider breaks something on a gnarly course it doesn't make me think "Gee, that part doesn't work I'll never buy that" It just shows that we are riding on a machine and machines break.

Not sure why vitalman has it out for WT. I am not at all worried about dropping a chain and if/when I do it will not ruin my day, it's just part of the hobby that I enjoy.


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## PainkillerSPE (Feb 15, 2009)

ejreyes6 said:


> My drivetrain is dead quiet even in granny. 5th gear on my cassette lines up perfect with the chainring.


Where did you find the 10mm spacer? I'm interested in running this ring on my BB30 crank but can;t find a 10mm spacer


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Came with my crankset


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

All this talk of function related topics is boring me. My ring is purrrrrdy:


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> All this talk of function related topics is boring me. My ring is purrrrrdy:


Post a photo of it on your bike now! And let us know how it works for you too.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> Post a photo of it on your bike now! And let us know how it works for you too.


I certainly would/will, but my bike is in several pieces in different parts of the country right now. First week of June or so, I'll post it up.


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## Bmann_mtb (Oct 11, 2009)

Got to try it out tonight and it was great no dropped chains. This is the answer i was looking for with my conversion to a 1x10 and removed the front derailer.


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Received mine Saturday and will be trying it out this weekend.

I bet it took all of 2 seconds to put his chain back on. Stuff happens.And in case you didn't know I heard of an xx1 chain drop as well. The conditions were horribrle


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

I rode this evening and hit every root and rock I could find. It worked great. I have a non clutch medium cage x9 derailure and a direct mount 32. It pedals so smooth I can't believe the difference. I was running a single ring race face on my 2 x10 spider.

Removing the spider and the chain guide I dropped 130 grams .

Pics to come.


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

I have a 30t winging its way to me  with which i'm going 1x10 , currently have 2x10 XT with Sram X9 non clutch, a bash and a Stinger.
I would like to keep chain slap down, cant see why i cannot refit the Stinger?
Also any full chain guides that will fit? The MRP Micro will apparently only fit the Bling

Cheers guys


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

A 30t huh? I don't think those are ready just yet...


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

Believe this was at least the second batch made


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

That's odd. I had an email conversation with WT last week who told me they wouldn't be ready for 4 weeks. Their web store shows them as "sold out", which is the same as the 24t and 26t models which were never made.

To Wolf Tooth: do you guys have the 30t or 28t in stock yet? Did you ever?


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

I kept an eye on both the website and their FB page, saw that 30T were ready for the 27th. I emailed them as to wether that date was firm and they said they would be sent out either the 24th or 28th, so I bought one via the website there and then. Got an email on the 23rd, posted! The entire batch gone there and then due to back orders


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

Obviously with XT cranks I'm talking bout 104 BCD.....


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

HAH. There's my problem. I'm talking about the GXP direct mount.


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

Ah!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

We have not made those yet. Web store only allows "in stock" or "sold out" as status. Hope to have them in 2 weeks or so but can't guarantee that!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

The Stinger should work fine. Let us know how it all works out.
-M


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> We have not made those yet. Web store only allows "in stock" or "sold out" as status. Hope to have them in 2 weeks or so but can't guarantee that!


Well, I hope your success continues. Word to the wise: mtbr readers were high on Homebrew components for custom rings for a long time. He was a one man operation and his delivery dates became longer and longer from date of payment, and people got fed up with him. I bought a 31T 104 bcd that I used for 1x9 on my 650b with a BBG bashwhich as a chain keeper. Now I have X9 direct mount crank and want to convert it to 1X10 with a WT 30T up front, and dump the bashwhich. As I have said before, 1X is about taking stuff OFF your bike, mKing it lighter and simpler. Chain guides, chain keepers, tensioners and such parts mean spending more $$ and then putting new stuff ON the bike after you removed front der. shifter and chainrings. Not good.

Your rings are a breed apart with the alternating teeth. As you are the only game in town for this product, I beg you to PRODUCE, PRODUCE and PRODUCE.

Good news for me: I'm in no rush to finish the 1X10 conversion on my 650b as I just purchased a Tall Boy carbon. I will run that with a front der. bash- 32-24 and ride it pretty much exclusively until I can get the 30T for the 650b. That has all the parts except the ring and is sitting around in dry dock waiting to be put back together.

Yes it's nice to have so many toys.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> The Stinger should work fine. Let us know how it all works out.
> -M


I thought the stinger was only good for a double


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

I don't think they're the only game in town now. There's a guy on eBay selling No-Drop front rings for XX1 and 104. At least there was. RaceFace claims theirs will be out soon with a msrp of about $45-$50. I'll believe it when I see it.

Rode with a buddy today, he has a WT 34T 104 on a XT clutch and 11-36. No chain drops in 6000' and 34 miles on his HT. Only thing he could whine about was the price...


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

westin said:


> I don't think they're the only game in town now. There's a guy on eBay selling No-Drop front rings for XX1 and 104. At least there was. RaceFace claims theirs will be out soon with a msrp of about $45-$50. I'll believe it when I see it.
> 
> Rode with a buddy today, he has a WT 34T 104 on a XT clutch and 11-36. No chain drops in 6000' and 34 miles on his HT. Only thing he could whine about was the price...


I would imagine WT will be forced to drop their prices if and only if Raceface, e*13, and others come out with a ring that's as good. Even if RF and MRP or whoever come out with one, we'll have to wait and see. Obviously, people pay a premium for stuff that works in our little mtb land.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

dwt said:


> I thought the stinger was only good for a double


The stinger has a groove and a shelf, for lack of better terms. I would imagine the chain will sit in the groove with a WT ring, and that it'll work just fine.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> I would imagine WT will be forced to drop their prices if and only if Raceface, e*13, and others come out with a ring that's as good. Even if RF and MRP or whoever come out with one, we'll have to wait and see. Obviously, people pay a premium for stuff that works in our little mtb land.


Yes we'll have to wait and see. The articles I read about the RF rings said that while they had the narrow/wide no drop teeth profile, they were 104 bcd, so nothing smaller than 32T. Only WT makes a 30T in 104 bcd AFAIK. 30T and even 28T necessary for 29" and 27.5" wheels for a lot of average strength riders.

e13 and North Shore Billet make direct mount rings, but not with the no drop teeth pattern.

So as of right now, WT is the only game on town- EXCEPT they are out of stock. "We make 'em, but we don't have any in stock" is a piss poor marketing strategy for this product, especially when the price is the highest in the market.

If anyone knows of another source of direct mount no drop rings, please post up the link.

I repeat my message to WT: step up production sooner rather than later, because other manufacturers WILL jump in eventually. First come first served. Plus, once there is competition in supply, you can forget about the $80+ pricing.

Race is on.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

dwt said:


> Yes we'll have to wait and see. The articles I read about the RF rings said that while they had the narrow/wide no drop teeth profile, they were 104 bcd, so nothing smaller than 32T. 30T and even 28T necessary for 29" and 27.5" wheels for a lot of average strength riders.
> 
> e13 and North Shore Billet make direct mount rings, but not with the no drop teeth pattern.
> 
> ...


I agree with 90% of what you're saying, except for cost. They're worth what people will pay for them, period. At least one competitor, XX1, charges $90 retail for a proprietary BCD. Right now, $78 for several options is spot on.

But yeah, they really should be taking advantage of this market. Stock 'em up Wolf Tooth!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for all the comments guys. And yes we hear you and are stepping up production in the next 2 weeks (started the process long ago actually). As many of you know, stepping up capacity is not done in the snap of a finger. Also, on the 30t 104BCD is BY FAR the most popular ring - the latest shipment sold out in 3 days. Remember that we don't have market data to tell us what is hot and not hot (collecting it now though like the 30t 104s!)...we are learning, trying getting better, and modifying our production schedule to balance supply/demand/new products. Also, we won't do the HBC thing, don't worry. This is why we only take pre-orders within a week or so of sending the rings. We don't want to hold your money while you wait for a ring any more than you want some bike component company holding your money!!

In the coming 4-6 weeks this new capacity will allow us to produce all the smaller DM sizes, get all the 88BCDs including 30t, keep the 104 stuff in stock, get the first batch of 120 BCD, entertain 102 BCD, and get some prototype stuff out to our testers. 


Lots more to come!


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Holyzeus said:


> I have a 30t winging its way to me  with which i'm going 1x10 , currently have 2x10 XT with Sram X9 non clutch, a bash and a Stinger.
> I would like to keep chain slap down, cant see why i cannot refit the Stinger?
> Also any full chain guides that will fit?* The MRP Micro will apparently only fit the Bling
> 
> *Cheers guys


I've got a Micro guide working just fine with a 30t direct mount from North Shore Billet. Have used it with the full guide, and a skid with the roller bits cut off - basically an AMG. Works fine both ways. I'd imagine I'll have just as much success once I get the WT ring to try.

Waiting on the 30T SRAM direct mount, and the 30T 88mm BCD rings!


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Vitalman said:


> Poor Mathias Fluckiger, guess he will be using a chain guide with his drop stop ring from now on.
> View attachment 800373


Poor fluckgier he only finished in the top 5 this weekend.

I have ridden the rockyiest rootiest trails and my ring has been flawless and I don't have a clutch type rear derailure.


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

scrublover said:


> I've got a Micro guide working just fine with a 30t direct mount from North Shore Billet. Have used it with the full guide, and a skid with the roller bits cut off - basically an AMG. Works fine both ways. I'd imagine I'll have just as much success once I get the WT ring to try.
> 
> Waiting on the 30T SRAM direct mount, and the 30T 88mm BCD rings!


Thanks for that, going to try with just the Stinger initially as I'm only concerned with chain-slap really and Micro's aren't cheap!


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

vizsladog said:


> Poor fluckgier he only finished in the top 5 this weekend.
> 
> I have ridden the rockyiest rootiest trails and my ring has been flawless and I don't have a clutch type rear derailure.


I suppose if I raced, especially if seriously, I would use a chain guide, figuring a lost chain would be worse than carrying a few grams extra weight.

But I don't race, so after spending $$ on direct mount crank and WT ring, I'm glad I won't have to throw in another chunk of change for another part. I'll risk occasional chain drop. If more than occasional, I'll suppose I'll bite the bullet.


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

I dropped the chain with a race face 32 and a chain guide. Not once but a few times. Plus it was a ***** to get out.

I'm with you,IF it ever drops its worth the weight I saved and will be able to put it back on in 2 seconds


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

vizsladog said:


> I dropped the chain with a race face 32 and a chain guide. Not once but a few times. Plus it was a ***** to get out.
> 
> I'm with you,IF it ever drops its worth the weight I saved and will be able to put it back on in 2 seconds


This. I doubt my hardtail and 5" bike will ever have full guides again. I like the clutch rear mech, paired with at _least_ something on the top, with some form of bash protection.

My 6.7" bike is top only at the moment, but may get the lower bits back on for riding at the lifts. Going to get some time in later this week. Figure I'll try a run or two with only the top guide and see how it goes. Easy enough to pop the lower roller back on if needed.

They've all been great with regular toothed rings, and I imagine they'll be even better with profiled tooth rings.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

As a follow up, I picked up a direct mount 34t and finally had a chance to put ~7 hours of fairly rough singletrack on it over the weekend, so far so good. Currently running the ring on an X0 crank I had used previously, paired with an XTR shadow+ mid cage.

If anyone is familiar with Landahl or Swope near Kansas City that will give you an idea of the terrain. I was looping a lot of the rocky sections, so would've expected a drop to happen at some point if it were going to happen. I was riding a fully rigid bike and even broke a spoke at one point, so things were pretty rough.

Still planning to test it in a race situation, although this definitely added confidence.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

dwt said:


> . The articles I read about the RF rings said that while they had the narrow/wide no drop teeth profile, they were 104 bcd, so nothing smaller than 32T.
> 
> e13 and North Shore Billet make direct mount rings, but not with the no drop teeth pattern.


Actually the Race Face website claims to include a 30 tooth 104 wide narrow tooth ring. I have one on order as the rep told the shop that they would have them in June. We will see.

Race Face 2013

Might be wishful thinking on my part though.


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## Tim Mailloux (Jun 18, 2007)

Those RF rings look nice, but seem to lack any sort of built in chain line offset like the WolfTooth rings have.


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## olowe (Jan 25, 2009)

Omg please make a 102bdc ring!


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

Tim Mailloux said:


> Those RF rings look nice, but seem to lack any sort of built in chain line offset like the WolfTooth rings have.


The pictures are 34 tooth rings. For a 30 tooth to work they have to do some sort off offset like Wolf.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Tim Mailloux said:


> Those RF rings look nice, but seem to lack any sort of built in chain line offset like the WolfTooth rings have.


Chain line offset? Seems to me only the GXP DM rings have the chain line offset. The 104BCD rings mount where the "big" ring on your 2x crank would be.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

You have to offset a 30 tooth because the chain will hit the crank tabs.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I get that, but that's not a "chain line offset". The offset on the 104BCD 30T ring is one WT made in order keep the chain clear of the spider, which doesn't come close to the actual "chain line offset" that the direct mount version gives. Seems to me that those using a DM ring will be running a cleaner chain line.


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

scvkurt03 said:


> I get that, but that's not a "chain line offset". 104BCD 30T mod is one WT made in order keep the chain clear of the spider, which doesn't come close to the actual "chain line offset" that the direct mount version gives. Seems to me that those using a DM ring will be running a cleaner chain line.


Oh yes I see what you're saying. Good point too. I may do that myself. XX1 with a 28 or just get it over with and get a complete XX1 kit.


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm going to 1x10 from 2x10 and just heard about these chainrings. I have a fairly heavy bike, 35lbs, and am considering the 30t to drop a little weight and a little easier than the 32t for the longer/steeper climbs. 
Wondering how people running the 30t are liking the gearing.
Seems like a great product from the reviews i've seen.
Thanks


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## spsoon (Jul 28, 2008)

Any ETA on BB30 direct-mount?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

BB30 DM are out in July or August. Note that we have had customers successfully using the GXP rings on BB30 with some shifting around of the crankset spacers (see earlier posts in this thread).

-WTC


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Rob,
Our gearing charts should help you on selecting the right size. I would suggest the 30t for most people because even w/ the 30t on a 26" bike at a 100 cadence you can still hit over 20mph (fast enough for most folks on mtbks=).

Gear Charts | wolftoothcycling.com


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
On chainlines, you pretty much have it all right on the DM and 104 stuff. That said, we currently have and will continue to add specific offset rings when and where it makes sense and is needed.
For example, our 88BCD rings are offset in 3mm from at typical big ring on the M985 crankset to create nearly a perfect chainline for 1x10.

-WTC


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## Dambala (Jan 22, 2011)

I've been running XX 1 with a standard chainring and front Der. as a "chain guide" with very little problem. I am installing XTR 985 crankset and WT chainring, minus the front Der. early next week and look forward to even better performance.


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Thanks WT. Ordered a 30t today. I have a mrp lower roller I'm thinking of keeping on. Anyone running this type of set up ? Will it even make much of a difference? 
Just curious. Thanks


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## GDamB (Jun 3, 2013)

Just installed the 32T on my 1x9 setup (9speed chain, XO long rear D. with no clutch mech and no chain guide) on Saturday and had Zero Drops! Sweet! Same trail ridden on Friday produced 8 drops.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Holyzeus said:


> I have a 30t winging its way to me  with which i'm going 1x10 , currently have 2x10 XT with Sram X9 non clutch, a bash and a Stinger.
> I would like to keep chain slap down, cant see why i cannot refit the Stinger?
> Also any full chain guides that will fit? The MRP Micro will apparently only fit the Bling
> 
> Cheers guys


The MRP Micro will accomodate any ring sized 28-32t. The BB mount model won't work with chainlines less than 50mm (XX1 for example - 49mm chainline.).


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks for that, wish I knew where my ring was......
Think customs may have it......


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

Ordered a 30t on Friday and got it today. Very easy setup too. Dropped 1.6lbs, mainly from a heavy floating front derailur. Zero dropped chains on the curb in front of my house. Taking it out Thursday for a real ride. Thanks wolftooth


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Wolf Tooth: will there be a 28 tooth ring for the XTR 985 Race Crank (88 mm BCD)? I must admit, I don't know if such a small ring can be mounted to this crank?

Sorry if this questions has been asked/answered before. Thanks in advance.


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## SilentGas (Mar 18, 2011)

Hey,

I just installed a 32T 104 BCD on my Full Suspension 1X10 setup... Sram X9 clutch type w/ KMC X10SL chain...

Glad to get rid of my MRP chain guide... I think they are ugly... and noisy too...

Works great! no drops, and no annoying chain slap... kind of like my single speed...

Shipping was fast! like ordered on Friday, got it Monday!

Ring is perfectly round.. absolutely flawless...

Thanks guys!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Looks Great! And that bike looks like WAY too much fun=)
Don't forget to shorten your chain if you haven't already. This article has a good rule of thumb we use for setting chain length on a 1x system: Trail Tech: Put Your Drivetrain On A Diet - BikeRadar

-WTC


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## Dambala (Jan 22, 2011)

First ride with XTR M985 Crankset and WolfTooth 34T chainring on my XX1 set up. A very nice looking set up that appears to work perfectly. Rode through rocks, roots, etc as rough as possible with dead silence and zero chain issues. Could not be happier!


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

If I get the 30T 104BCD chainring can I reuse my existing chainring bolts since the chainring is threaded?


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I used my existing chainring bolts with my 2x10 w/bash setup. The bolts need to be 8mm long I believe.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Thanks for the info.

Do I need to grind my crank spider down if I decide to go with the 30T 104BCD?


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

No. The ring is offset.


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

dwt said:


> ...
> So as of right now, WT is the only game on town- EXCEPT they are out of stock. "We make 'em, but we don't have any in stock" is a piss poor marketing strategy for this product, especially when the price is the highest in the market.
> 
> If anyone knows of another source of direct mount no drop rings, please post up the link.


here you go and in stock. 
Sram Spiderless

not exactly XX1 style but for light riding it provides enough chain retention.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Yes, you can reuse your bolts if you are coming from a double or triple and don't plan to run a bash guard. If you plan to run a bash guard, you will need 12mm bolts, which you likely don't have already on your crankset.
Single speed bolts won't have enough thread engagement. 

-WTC


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Randan,
I think you contacted us on FB, but the smallest we have planned for the M985 is a 30t.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks Tehan for sharing your approach (we did look at the same thing you are doing months ago). We have done a fair amount of testing too, have had rings in the field (and SHIPPING) for many months, and we have had no chain dropping issues. 

-WTC


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Hmm, so I should wait for something that doesn't have alternating teeth and go for something in some sort of tooth shape, for longevity?

Decisions.

My local bike shop has the 30T in stock and I was about to go purchase it, but.....


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Park,
I always go with tried (1000's of test hours now) and true (just look back this tread) for my equipment 

I also should have mentioned that our rings are currently being used in the world cup races and the enduro world series with NO chain dropping issues (given a clutch rear derailleur of course at that level).

-WTC


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

...


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

forgot completely. All is said here to have clutch type der in order to work. But i have few friends riding my ring without clutch by purpose and what we found it still works great. Yes- it will drop a chain on occasion (we found it in mud mostly) but it still works great. 
Of course with clutch it works a lot better like WTC is also advising as that helps a TON.
but if someone is on the budget he can still use his 1x9 drivetrain and do really ok. The only important thing here is to use 10spd chain with 9spd cassette. It works even better than original and helps to keep better tolerances between chainring and chain. I guess it may work with WTC as well but have not tested that.


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## friz (Dec 2, 2012)

I have several hundred miles on my Wolf tooth ring with no drops. I run a clutch derailleur but seldom flip the lever unless I hear chain slap. I take the wheels off my bike and throw it in the back of my car for my commute so I can ride over lunch. With my bike coming apart and going back together a couple times a day, I seldom reset the clutch when assembling. I plan on trying the Race Face one on my daughters new bike. I like the Wolf ring, but a little pricey compared to the Race Face.


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

I have a wt 32 direct mount with a few hundred miles on it and a non clutch rear derailure with no drops.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

Ok, so I went to my local bike shop and picked up a 30T chainring. Haven't gone on a ride just yet, but plan on doing so today or tomm.

I followed the link that WolfTooth posted for the proper chain length 4 extra links.

How does my chain length look? First photo is in the smallest cog and the Second photo is in the biggest cog.

Click photos for larger picture.:thumbsup:


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Chain length*

Looks like you got the chain length perfect. Here's a photo that should help if anyone still has questions. Chain should be around the largest cog in back and NOT through the derailleur! Will get this added to our website also. Wire was just to hold it in place while taking the photo.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> Looks like you got the chain length perfect. Here's a photo that should help if anyone still has questions. Chain should be around the largest cog in back and NOT through the derailleur! Will get this added to our website also. Wire was just to hold it in place while taking the photo.


:thumbsup:, from your picture it looks like 3 links + the one that is needed to connect the ends so it ends up being 4, which is exactly how I shortened mine.

I went for a short loop around my local trail and there are some bumpy sections and no chain drops. Still taking some getting used to as I have not been riding a lot lately. I took off around 1.10 lbs doing this mod.


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## Danimal1 (Oct 12, 2005)

I am planning on converting my drivetrain to XX1, but I have a near brand new set of Shimano XTR M980 (triple) cranks I would like to use with a wolftooth ring instead of buying a new XX1 crank. Is there any reason this will not work?


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

Danimal1 said:


> I am planning on converting my drivetrain to XX1, but I have a near brand new set of Shimano XTR M980 (triple) cranks I would like to use with a wolftooth ring instead of buying a new XX1 crank. Is there any reason this will not work?


That should work perfectly fine, and IMO you'll end up with a nicer crankset. Wolftooth's site says the ring will work for 1x10 and 1x11. I really like the sram detachable spider design, but prefer the overall design of the XTR crankset (have both, XTR still running 2x10).


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Yes, it will work great. In fact, 2 of us here at WTC are running XTR cranksets w/ XX1 rear drivetrains because the XTR crankset is stiffer and more durable=)


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Two 88mm BCD rings for my XTR crank ordered up, and awaiting the 30T for the SRAM spiderless!

On another note, I have a new one of the Absolute Black rings. No offense Tehan, but , meh. It doesn't do anything for chain retention any better than the NSB and MRP rings I already have. So, now I just have another spare for tossing on when things wear out.

I'd really, really love it if one of you aftermarket guys would make these rings in steel. I'll take the weight penalty without question if the tradeoff is more longevity.

Anyhow. (bad pic, i know)








The three rings, the MRP and NSB don't have a ton of miles and are not very worn at all vs. the new Absolute Black ring. The NSB has the most offset -~2mm more than the MRP. The AB ring has the least - just a touch, maybe 0.5-1mm compared to the MRP.

The non-profiled rings work great on my hardtail and 5" trailbike - both running top guides and bash protections. I want the profiled teeth to run on my 7" bike to aid in retention so I can ditch using the lower bits of my chain guide. Especially when running those 28 and 30T rings, where you've got less ring to chain interface to hold things on in the first place. Quieter, less drag, less fuss is the whole idea.


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I got three rides in on my 30 tooth chainring, on a long travel trail bike. Did lots of downhilling on some pretty rough stuff too. Worked great and really quiet. Had it in the smaller cogs a lot to see if it would jump. No problems. I'm really liking it. Thanks


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Great feedback! I loved running that ring on my Trek Rumblefish. 30t is still plenty of ring on 29er for most applications, but sure helps on the climbs!


broccoli rob said:


> I got three rides in on my 30 tooth chainring, on a long travel trail bike. Did lots of downhilling on some pretty rough stuff too. Worked great and really quiet. Had it in the smaller cogs a lot to see if it would jump. No problems. I'm really liking it. Thanks


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for the input Scrublover.
We have not ruled out SST rings. Our main worry is cost and weight both going in the wrong direction!
That said, we had some testers running 24t rings up in the Iditabike and they wear more quickly (wear pretty much scales w/ teeth so ~25% faster than a 32t) SST rings would help a lot for the small rings.



scrublover said:


> Two 88mm BCD rings for my XTR crank ordered up, and awaiting the 30T for the SRAM spiderless!
> 
> On another note, I have a new one of the Absolute Black rings. No offense Tehan, but , meh. It doesn't do anything for chain retention any better than the NSB and MRP rings I already have. So, now I just have another spare for tossing on when things wear out.
> 
> ...


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

Hey,
Have you actually did some miles on it or just say from the looks. Just curious as it's not really clear from the post. 
Could you write me in which cases it dropped usually and what gears you were using on the rear at that time? 
many thanks


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Picked up a Wolftooth 32 chain ring , So now i'm running 1x10. I have about 20 miles on it so far and it works perfect and i love the way the gearing is now. I went from the 36 chain ring to the 32 and didn't shorten the chain and it works just fine. i ride alot of rocky down hills and the chain stayed put. I do run a RD with the clutch. this is on my 2013 specialized camber comp. Only thin i notice is there is a good bit of cross chaining on the upper 2 cogs but i only use them for long steep climbs now.Thx. for making a quality product.

Joe


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

tehan said:


> Hey,
> Have you actually did some miles on it or just say from the looks. Just curious as it's not really clear from the post.
> Could you write me in which cases it dropped usually and what gears you were using on the rear at that time?
> many thanks


Only around my neighborhood, to be fair.

Now, I didn't have any issues with dropping chains on the other two rings to start with. I just wanted to see how this one would compare. No offense, but looking at the tooth shape/size/profile, I don't imagine it's going to work any worse OR better than the MRP or NSB rings.

Playing around with some extra chain kicking around the garage, I have no idea what you have going on in your pics - my ring can't even come close to holding the chain like in your pictures. Only way it came even close was putting significant pressure on the chain/ring combo.

Don't get me wrong I'm not at all saying it's bad, just that based on my limited experience with it so far, it doesn't appear that it'll give me any benefit over the MRP and NSB rings. Or any worse performance either, for that matter.

I'm much more excited overall for the shaped -to- mate with the chain tooth profiles, particularly if someone makes one in steel for better longevity. Even when the alu shaped rings wear down, you're not going to be any worse off than running a non-profiled ring, IMO.

I'm going to stick with stating to buy whichever one you can get a deal on/is in stock for the tooth count you want, and whatever profiling (or not) you want.


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## mackt (Jan 27, 2008)

Look what was in the mail today!
Now just have to wait for the frame ....


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

It can look similar for an untrained eye but shape is Completely different. I respect your opinion, but in all fairness it's a bit unfair making such statements not riding it for some time or 200+miles. So if you want to compare it make some miles

As to the pictures and your test. Have you tried it with new chain or old one? Worn chain is not going to hold new chainring that well and i think this is obvious There is plenty of guys trying that on German IBC forum and all of them can repeat what is shown on the pictures. Let me know if you need a link.


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## trhoppe (Sep 3, 2008)

Just for perspective, I've put the Wolftooth 34T ring through some serious shizzle and no chain drops as part of my testing for Bike198.com

- ~200 miles of "riding" on my Salsa El Mariachi 29er hardtail. Through Pinhotis, Cohutta Death March, mud, muck etc
- 4 hours of "horrible shitty conditions" racing on the Salsa. Crazy ass muddy, chainsuck for all other competitors: https://distilleryimage8.s3.amazonaws.com/51055004b4fd11e2918122000a9f0a12_7.jpg
- 6 hours on my Remedy in Pisgah. Pilot Rock, etc. Rocky fast descents.

0 chain drops, perfect retention, LOVE it.

I started out with 1x10 with X9 but moved to 1x11 but with the standard crank and the wolftooth ring.

The only change I want now is that I need grab a 30T ring as the 34T is too much for 1x bikepacking.

-Tom


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

New piece of chain, the extra from the last time I put a new chain on. SRAM 10 speed something or other. There is no way it'll stay like that. As well, the chain on the ring when on the bike flops around all over.

Don't take it personally, man. And yes, it's going to get some miles - we just have a ton of dumping rain coming down at the moment by me.

Again, I'm not saying it's a bad ring, *it just doesn't appear as if it'll hold a chain any better than the MRP or NSB rings I already have*. The same bit of chain felt just as loose on all of them. Now, will they (all three) hold a chain better than a ramped and pinned ring? For sure, but that isn't what we're comparing.

Obviously it's my untrained eyes unable to see the differences.  The tooth heights and widths all measure the same on the three rings I've got. The AB ring has slightly less of a sharp angle up to the top, and the slight hooked angle on the back edge of the tooth.

Dropping isn't an issue - I've not had any drops using the other two rings anyhow - using an MRP AM-Guide for top guiding and bash protection, and plan to continue doing so even with a Wolftooth ring. It's on my bike that sees local pedaling and DH resort time. Being able to ditch the lower guide bit with a "dropless" ring is what I'm after, and IMO, I'll have better luck with a much more heavily profiled to fit the chain setup. I'm going to use and wear out the spiderless rings I've got, then swap on a Wolftooth.

Also have WT rings on the way for the XTR cranks on my hardtail and 5" trail bike, where I'm much more interested in running less guide. But since I still run bash protection anyhow, will probably keep the upper guides on as well, for when the rings inevitably wear down and chain drops may become an issue before replacing the ring.


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## Chrisonabike (Mar 29, 2013)

I am running a 1x10 with a Stylo 1.1 crank. I have a 30 tooth on the way and want to make sure that I order the correct length chain ring bolts. It is my understanding that I will need a 12 mm long bolt. Can anyone make recommendations on a good bolt for the application.


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

I'm still interested in a Specialized/Lightning spiderless 30T ring for my S-works cranks!


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

just try it without a bottom roller or something you were planning to drop and then let me know. Devil is in small details like in every such ring design. 
If you compare all these ring while hangin on the chain (let say 5 links) you will see the difference in the gap between chain and chainring.

here is what i am referring to:
Can you see how loose chain is on NSB ring? These small differences makes a bigger difference.


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## mackt (Jan 27, 2008)

That was an easy way to save 250gm!

Frames arrived, two more key bits of kit before can put it all together.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

tehan said:


> just try it without a bottom roller or something you were planning to drop and then let me know. Devil is in small details like in every such ring design.
> If you compare all these ring while hangin on the chain (let say 5 links) you will see the difference in the gap between chain and chainring.
> 
> here is what i am referring to:
> Can you see how loose chain is on NSB ring? These small differences makes a bigger difference.


I think your reading comprehension is off...

Again, I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that it doesn't appear to offer anything other than the MRP and NSB rings - compared to the samples I have right here with me, not in someones posted on the web pictures.

After looking at your pics, I've tried to replicate the hanging ring by the chain - NONE of the rings (MRP, NSB, or AB) will even come close to holding the ring like that. This is with a new piece of ten speed SRAM chain.

I've already been riding without the lower roller on my Reign-X on local trails with the other two rings, and would like to keep doing so when hitting the resorts - thus he desire for a Wolftooth ring for extra security. Picked up the MRP and NSB rings before anyone was making profiled rings, and just grabbed the AB ring just to see how it was based on your pics here.

Soon as the 28 & 30 SRAM mount Wolftooth rings are available, I'll be ordering some.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

And, just because I'm up late/can't sleep.










Front to back: Warhawk 30T for 88mm XTR BCD, stock XTR 30T ring, MRP 28t SRAM mount, NSB 30t SRAM mount, Absolute Black 28t SRAM mount.

I've been swapping back and forth between the MRP and NSB on my Reign-X - can't tell a damn bit of difference functionally when pedaling, only with setup, having to adjust the guide bits for the slight difference in offsets. Plan to now add the AB ring into the mix until the 28-30t Wolftooth rings are available.

Warhawk vs. stock XTR. This thing has bite! 








Stainless steel, for my hardtail - the back end isn't moving about like a FS bike, so I just want long life. Came in 30gms. vs. 84gms. Wider and taller teeth, and thicker - even without XX1 clone teeth, this thing holds onto a ring really well! Two of these just showed up today - they are the only ones I've been able to get to replicate tehan's "holding the ring in the air via the chain" trick.

I still like bash and upper guide protection. Cut down e.13 XCX guide with a HBC bash. 









The Blur TRc is waiting on the Wolftooth rings - I want that tooth profile with the bike moving around more, and for the trails this goes on that the hardtail usually doesn't. 









Works very well with the MRP AM-Guide. We'll see what tweaking needs to happen with the WT ring and its offset to get it to play nicely with the guide. The Reign-X guide is an MRP Micro with the lower roller off at the moment. All three bikes are using clutch derailleurs.


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## PhilGau (Sep 20, 2010)

randan said:


> Wolf Tooth: will there be a 28 tooth ring for the XTR 985 Race Crank (88 mm BCD)? I must admit, I don't know if such a small ring can be mounted to this crank?
> 
> Sorry if this questions has been asked/answered before. Thanks in advance.


A 28 tooth should work in theory with 88bcd. I would be keen to buy a 28t in m985 configuration if it were available!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Phil,
None planned right now as we have had few requests for that ring. It is probably possible, but may have to have the offset like our 30t 104BCD. We are doing a 30t, which has been a very poplular size for 104.



PhilGau said:


> A 28 tooth should work in theory with 88bcd. I would be keen to buy a 28t in m985 configuration if it were available!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Just confirmed it is possible to do a 28t 88BCD. I will add it to our list, but it would be a late summer/early fall release with all the other stuff we have cooking...



WolfTooth said:


> Hey Phil,
> None planned right now as we have had few requests for that ring. It is probably possible, but may have to have the offset like our 30t 104BCD. We are doing a 30t, which has been a very poplular size for 104.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

WolfTooth said:


> Just confirmed it is possible to do a 28t 88BCD. I will add it to our list, but it would be a late summer/early fall release with all the other stuff we have cooking...


Yep - one of the stock ring setups is with a 28t I think. Cool. Liking the one on my Blur TRc quite a bit - two rides now. Quiet, smooth.

IMO, it could benefit from a touch more offset to the inside, or making a version to mount on the inner ring tabs without any offset. My chainline with no spacers on the driveside is fairly skewed to the outside, with no way to move things more inboard now. A ring mounted on the inside would give the option to space it outboard a bit if needed.

SRAM direct mount rings ordered up now for the other bike!


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## Art_mart (Jul 19, 2012)

*9 speed non clutch*

Hey,

For those who still riding 9 speed it definitely works based on my experience. Even with non clutch long cage derailleur.

I've been riding for two weeks now and it's all good. I only drooped the chain once though while going over some roots but that's it.

single chainring is the way to go:thumbsup:


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## crossracer (Jun 27, 2004)

ordered my new 34 tth yesterday, cant wait to try it. 

Going to try and use my original rear der and see how it goes. if need be ill order a shadow plus der. 

Bill


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Hundreds of miles now with a non clutch rear derailure and not 1 dropped chain. Running a direct mount 32 t.

I also hit a log that was thrown up from my buddy in front of me and I tried to wheelie over it going about 15mph down a trail and bent the crap outta the ring and my mechanic friend got it 99 percent straight.

Wolfstooth offered to give me a crash discount and they had never had one bend but I was low on cash after some things came up at the same time so I had it fixed by my friend. 

Great customer service and very quick response from wolfstooth.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

My 30t ring for the XTR 985 Race crank showed up some days ago. Looks really nice. For the moment I will keep the chainguide, maybe I'll ditch it later.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

I so far had nothing but good experience as well. No dropped chains and i have gone through some very very rough trails. :thumbup:

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Debating on getting a 104 BCD or wait until I can afford a new crank and get the spiderless. Would save a bit more weight.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Got my GXP 32t on my new bike. Rides great!


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## mackt (Jan 27, 2008)

*Maiden Voyage*

Took the new bike out for it's first official outing.

32T on the front and Shimano ZEE on the back - smooth as butta! The track was ubber muddy, didn't miss a beat.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: from me


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## Lemonaid (May 13, 2013)

I received mine. I'm very impressed with the quality. One bumpy/rocky 30 minute ride no chain drops so far.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

Has anyone had issues with chain noise after changing to a Wolftooth chainring? I have a SS with spot-on chainline, a Homebrewed components Ti cog with very little appreciable wear and a brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. It sounds just like a new chain - worn chainring type noise. No noise in the stand and lots of popping under power when riding. Chain tension is not too loose nor too tight. LBS was mystified and suggested I ride it a while to see if it quiets down. My only other thought is to try other (but used) chainring-cog combos to figure out what is the culprit.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

So, third ride, and I had a drop. Conditions were ridiculous - mud, rocks, roots.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

chuckc1971 said:


> Has anyone had issues with chain noise after changing to a Wolftooth chainring? I have a SS with spot-on chainline, a Homebrewed components Ti cog with very little appreciable wear and a brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. It sounds just like a new chain - worn chainring type noise. No noise in the stand and lots of popping under power when riding. Chain tension is not too loose nor too tight. LBS was mystified and suggested I ride it a while to see if it quiets down. My only other thought is to try other (but used) chainring-cog combos to figure out what is the culprit.


Yes, I experience the same popping I guess you can call it, noise as well after going with the 30T Wolftooth chainring. I do not know if you are noticing the noise like I do, which is only when standing up and really putting load onto the drive train on climbs. Drive train is pretty much quiet in the stand and when seated and pedaling.

My guess is either the chain line as well as the small big teeth combo up front and the slight chain alignment change when putting load when standing up is causing the noise.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

parkp81 said:


> I do not know if you are noticing the noise like I do, which is only when standing up and really putting load onto the drive train on climbs. Drive train is pretty much quiet in the stand and when seated and pedaling.


Yes, that is it! As I have a SS, I don't think it's chainline as 1x10 systems have far more side-loading that me. My guess is the chain I have doesn't really like the small-big teeth as you surmised. If it doesn't improve, I might try and old Wipperman or SRAM chain with the Wolftooth. If that doesn't help, I will see if he can refund my money as offered.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Waiting very impatiently for a 120mm ring for SRAM 2x10 cranks! Or, a direct mount for BB30!

Looks like they've come up with a very solid product and I really want to get one on my bike.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

They dont offer a spiderless for bb30?


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Le Duke said:


> Waiting very impatiently for a 120mm ring for SRAM 2x10 cranks! Or, a direct mount for BB30!
> 
> Looks like they've come up with a very solid product and I really want to get one on my bike.


Their direct mount do work on some bb30 models. My xo had a 10mm spacer on the drive side. Seems like those particular xo chainrings sit more outward. I had a perfect chain
Line after install their direct mount. Pictures posted near the beginning of this thread


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

chuckc1971 said:


> Yes, that is it! As I have a SS, I don't think it's chainline as 1x10 systems have far more side-loading that me. My guess is the chain I have doesn't really like the small-big teeth as you surmised. If it doesn't improve, I might try and old Wipperman or SRAM chain with the Wolftooth. If that doesn't help, I will see if he can refund my money as offered.


Which chain are you currently using? I am running a shimano xt dynasys hg94 chain. Which states it has "super narrow" setup, maybe this is the cause. I looked at the hg74 and it does not advertise it as super narrow.

I think you are right it is the chain side plates (side loading), when putting load on the drivetrain.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

ejreyes6 said:


> Their direct mount do work on some bb30 models. My xo had a 10mm spacer on the drive side. Seems like those particular xo chainrings sit more outward. I had a perfect chain
> Line after install their direct mount. Pictures posted near the beginning of this thread


Thanks. I found your pic on te first page. Thereis a pretty large spacer on my cannondale so I am hoping that the gxp will work as yours has. Hopefully order my x9 crank this week.


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## uzurpator (Dec 8, 2005)

chuckc1971 said:


> Has anyone had issues with chain noise after changing to a Wolftooth chainring? I have a SS with spot-on chainline, a Homebrewed components Ti cog with very little appreciable wear and a brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. It sounds just like a new chain - worn chainring type noise. No noise in the stand and lots of popping under power when riding. Chain tension is not too loose nor too tight. LBS was mystified and suggested I ride it a while to see if it quiets down. My only other thought is to try other (but used) chainring-cog combos to figure out what is the culprit.


If the sound you are experiencing is what I imagine it is, it is most likely an issue of slightly mismatched pitch between chain and chainring. It usually happens when a worn chain is run on new chainrings.

If all components are new, then it is harmless and will subside after a short while.


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

uzurpator said:


> If the sound you are experiencing is what I imagine it is, it is most likely an issue of slightly mismatched pitch between chain and chainring. It usually happens when a worn chain is run on new chainrings.
> 
> If all components are new, then it is harmless and will subside after a short while.


That sort of makes sense, but I checked my chain and it is still not worn past .75 or 1.0 on the Park tool gauge. So my chain is still good. Maybe if I ride some more the noise will go away eventually? I will replace my chain when it gets to .75, or I can just go ahead and get a new chain now and see if the sound stops, have not decided yet.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

parkp81 said:


> Which chain are you currently using?
> 
> I think you are right it is the chain side plates (side loading), when putting load on the drivetrain.


Brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. The bike is a SS. So, sideloading shouldn't be an issue. I think it's what uzurpator suggests and mismatched pitch between chain and chainring.


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## michael573114 (May 5, 2006)

I'm waiting for the 26T spiderless GXP to be available - it'll be the perfect replacement for the 26-and-bash I have now.

One thing I'd be interested in though - I currently have SRAM S1400 cranks, and I'd love to pick up some X0 carbon crank arms, but everyone sells the whole set with spider and rings - anyone know if you can get just the arms somewhere?


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## parkp81 (Oct 29, 2005)

chuckc1971 said:


> Brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. The bike is a SS. So, sideloading shouldn't be an issue. I think it's what uzurpator suggests and mismatched pitch between chain and chainring.


True, for your instance. I guess I will ride it some more, and see if the noise goes away on its own as it wears. If it does not I will wait a little more until the chain needs to be replaced. I was just about to purchase a new chain, but if yours is new and making the noise, it probably won't fix my issue as well.


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## rsmarg (Apr 28, 2008)

michael573114 said:


> I'm waiting for the 26T spiderless GXP to be available - it'll be the perfect replacement for the 26-and-bash I have now.
> 
> One thing I'd be interested in though - I currently have SRAM S1400 cranks, and I'd love to pick up some X0 carbon crank arms, but everyone sells the whole set with spider and rings - anyone know if you can get just the arms somewhere?


Not sure about just the arms, but I believe the spiders and cranks on the X7 (S1400), X9, and XO are all interchangable. I bought an X7 (S1400) with 104/64 BCD and an X9 with 120/80. I took the spider off the X7 and put it on the X9 cranks in order to get the smaller BCD onto the X9s and vice versa. Everything sync'd nicely.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

michael573114 said:


> I'm waiting for the 26T spiderless GXP to be available - it'll be the perfect replacement for the 26-and-bash I have now.
> 
> One thing I'd be interested in though - I currently have SRAM S1400 cranks, and I'd love to pick up some X0 carbon crank arms, but everyone sells the whole set with spider and rings - anyone know if you can get just the arms somewhere?


Hey Michael,
We will be doing the 26t closer to winter here in the US, as most of the super small ring market is more for fat bikes. 
That said, we have this handy gear chart on our site for you to consider (you probably already have thought of this): Gear Charts | wolftoothcycling.com
If you went to the 28t, you only loose a little bit of very low end gearing..something like dropping one tooth on your biggest cog in the back. I just wanted you to be aware in case you don't want to wait for a 26t.

Oh, and if you take an XO crankset and put our ring on it ends up being about as light as an XX1 (and cheaper=).

-WTC


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

To the guys on chain noise: 
That is interesting so please keep us updated on what you find!

We have tried many different chains and they all stay on (don't drop) but they all also have plate to plate widths that vary by a little. While I personally like the Shimano chains for their robustness, the SRAM chains do fit the "tightest" laterally to the ring. Also, the Dynasys chains are directional and as you noted come in different outer plate widths, so that could affect it. 
To date had one other rider tell us of a similar noise issue but it was on a very worn drivetrain. After a few rides, the appreciable noise went away, but that probably just means he took some life out of his chainring.

Finally of not is that if you take any new chain out of the box, the wear can vary from .25 to .5 on a park scale. The new ring is obviously designed around a 0-.25 (near perfect) chain, so you may have gotten unlucky and gotten one of those "new" .5s=)


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## michael573114 (May 5, 2006)

wolftooth - Yeah, I'm already riding with a 26T, so I'm pretty sure that's what I want. I'd hate to lose the really low-end gearing, we do a lot of climbing where I ride, enough that sometimes I want a 24T, but then I just think "ride harder!"  So yeah, no problem waiting for the 26T.


rsmarg - right, the spiders are the same, I'm not worried about whether I can use my existing S1400 cranks, I know that's going to work. It's more that I'd love to be able to save more weight by using X0 arms, but not pay full price for the entire crankset with spider and rings I'll never use. And also keep my current S1400 set for another bike.


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

michael573114 said:


> wolftooth - Yeah, I'm already riding with a 26T, so I'm pretty sure that's what I want. I'd hate to lose the really low-end gearing, we do a lot of climbing where I ride, enough that sometimes I want a 24T, but then I just think "ride harder!"  So yeah, no problem waiting for the 26T.
> 
> rsmarg - right, the spiders are the same, I'm not worried about whether I can use my existing S1400 cranks, I know that's going to work. It's more that I'd love to be able to save more weight by using X0 arms, but not pay full price for the entire crankset with spider and rings I'll never use. And also keep my current S1400 set for another bike.


Check with merlin cycle. I bought a xo 1x crankset for my wife's bike. They were under $200.


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## rsmarg (Apr 28, 2008)

michael573114 said:


> wolftooth - Yeah, I'm already riding with a 26T, so I'm pretty sure that's what I want. I'd hate to lose the really low-end gearing, we do a lot of climbing where I ride, enough that sometimes I want a 24T, but then I just think "ride harder!"  So yeah, no problem waiting for the 26T..


FWIW: I'm running a 2x10 with a 38/25 front gearing and 11-36 rear on an Intense Spider 29er. I've hardly used the big 38 up front this year, which started me thinking about going to the 1x10 setup. Like you, I was concerned about going bigger than the 25T though. So I used Wolftooth's gearing chart to figure out what a 28T would feel like, and - like WT posted - it really only translates to losing the last low gear. So the past two weeks I've committed to riding without shifting into that gear and its been no prob. I live in Evergreen, CO, so a typical ride is 1-2 hrs of climbing followed by 0.5-1 hr of downhill. With the gear ratio assuming a 28T front 12T rear there were a few climbs that were grunts, but the gearing never prevented me from cleaning a climb. And I'm no racer or the like.


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## michael573114 (May 5, 2006)

Right, I appreciate you guys trying to help, but as I said, I'm already very happy with my gearing as it is, and I'm not looking to be convinced otherwise, certainly not towards a larger gear. I've been using this 1x10 (26T and 12-36) setup for 2 years now, and it works great for me. I only brought this up at all so WT knew more people are looking for their 26T ring, and to see if anyone knew if I could get SRAM crank arms bare.

You're right about WT's gearing chart being excellent though - I actually chose this setup after doing a lot of work in a similar spreadsheet myself.

Thanks ejreyes6 - they're out of stock right now, but I'll keep Merlin in mind!


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## djball (Nov 3, 2010)

I'm switching to single ring and also looking for the WT 26t direct mount for new XX1 cranks/11-36 cassette, is there an ETA? Yeah is sounds wimpy, but it's steep around here and 99% of my riding is long sustained ups to gnarly downs (where there is little pedaling) I will also run the MRP Micro when available... need a skid plate and lower guide to take up chain slap. Should run nice and quiet


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

ETA on the 24-26t DM is August-Sept timeframe.

For those that climb for a long time then bomb down, how would you feel about running a double but with no front derr? In other words, would consider a 36t big ring and a 22 small ring with a manual shift when you get to the the "top" of your ride? The only penalty would be the weight of a small ring which is about 30-35 grams.

This setup has been used by adventure snow bikers for a while now (Front derr don't work once they freeze) and we are wondering if it has applicability to Enduro style riding (big climb then gnarly descent).

-WTC



ejreyes6 said:


> Check with merlin cycle. I bought a xo 1x crankset for my wife's bike. They were under $200.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Interesting! I'd be concerned a bit about the chain line.


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## djball (Nov 3, 2010)

WolfTooth said:


> ETA on the 24-26t DM is August-Sept timeframe.
> 
> For those that climb for a long time then bomb down, how would you feel about running a double but with no front derr? In other words, would consider a 36t big ring and a 22 small ring with a manual shift when you get to the the "top" of your ride? The only penalty would be the weight of a small ring which is about 30-35 grams.
> 
> ...


I used to do manual shift years ago, but the problem was keeping the chain on the big ring - it would always drop down to granny on rough stuff... so I sandwiched the big ring between two rock rings with granny on inside. It worked most of the time, but it was also hella noisy!! Chain rattle between two rock rings without clutch derailleurs or chain guides was fairly substantial, hmmm. Then there were always times when I was on the wrong ring wishing for a shifter. Too much fungling, the new singles will get most of the gears I need clean and simple.


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## chuckc1971 (Jul 31, 2002)

chuckc1971 said:


> Brand spanking new KMC X10SL-DLC chain. The bike is a SS. So, sideloading shouldn't be an issue. I think it's what uzurpator suggests and mismatched pitch between chain and chainring.


Well, I found my problem. Short answer: it's not the chainring.

Long answer: My first ride in the woods (new chain, new EBB, new BB, new chainring and what I thought was a good looking cog) was incredibly noisy. Thought my drivetrain was going to grenade any moment when attempting to climb. Thought I might of had a BB issue (my EBB was 73.5mm wide) but resolving that only made the crank spin smoother. Swapping out the chainring for an old one only seemed to be make it just a touch better if that. I swapped out my Ti Homebrewed Components cog for an old Niner cog that actually looked worse and the noise completely disappeared! Put the Wolftooth chainring back on and it's whisper quiet!

Perhaps, the closer tolerances of the new 10 speed chain require everything else to be in primo shape. Have a Endless Cog on order. So, if anyone is getting chain noise you may have to replace anything not brand spanking new.


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## Prestige (Oct 22, 2010)

I did quickly read trough this thred, but didn't find answer. Is it possible to use WT chainring with front derailleur?

I'd still like to keep my 2x10 setup for enduro racing. I sometimes need granny ring on the transfer stages. Could WT chainring be used instead of 2 ring chainguide?


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## Lemonaid (May 13, 2013)

Prestige said:


> I did quickly read trough this thred, but didn't find answer. Is it possible to use WT chainring with front derailleur?
> 
> I'd still like to keep my 2x10 setup for enduro racing. I sometimes need granny ring on the transfer stages. Could WT chainring be used instead of 2 ring chainguide?


No, As with any other single front chainring set up WT chainrings are designed to prevent the chain from comming off the front chainring. 2x10 setups require chainrings that are ramped and design to let the chain easily slide off to the next gear when shifted.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Just got my direct mount 30T. Not mounted yet; have X9 shifter and clutch der. & chain; need a 10 speed cassette. Thinking 1070 or 1050 so if I can scrape up the coin, I can get a General Lee 10-40 adapter. 

Anyone use one of these?


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

*Almost the same setup...*



dwt said:


> Just got my direct mount 30T. Not mounted yet; have X9 shifter and clutch der. & chain; need a 10 speed cassette. Thinking 1070 or 1050 so if I can scrape up the coin, I can get a General Lee 10-40 adapter.
> 
> Anyone use one of these?


I have a 32T front direct mount on my X0 cranks, XT Shadow+ derailleur, and a 1070 with the General Lee 11-40 cassette (25, 29, 34 & 40T rings). Great range with this setup but the shifting is slightly finicky going from the SRAM to the GL rings and back. Just a slight delay in the transition across cogs but otherwise stellar. According to the Pink Bike review on this setup the SRAM shifter/derailleur combo works better than Shimano so you may have even better results.

If I had to do it all over again I would probably have gone with the 30T front ring but overall most of my regular climbs are manageable with this setup.

...oh, and no dropped chains although it's only been 3 rides in dry conditions


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## Prestige (Oct 22, 2010)

Lemonaid said:


> No, As with any other single front chainring set up WT chainrings are designed to prevent the chain from comming off the front chainring. 2x10 setups require chainrings that are ramped and design to let the chain easily slide off to the next gear when shifted.


I'd like to push this little bit more. 2x10 setup does not require ramped design. At the moment I use e.13 guidering as bigger ring on my 2x10 setup. I don't need easy sifting, what I need is that chain really stays on the big ring when needed, and every now and then use the granny ring. Lemonaid, have you tried WT with front derailleur? Has anyone tried if front derailleur is able to drop the chain from WT chainring?


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Prestige said:


> I'd like to push this little bit more. 2x10 setup does not require ramped design. At the moment I use e.13 guidering as bigger ring on my 2x10 setup. I don't need easy sifting, what I need is that chain really stays on the big ring when needed, and every now and then use the granny ring. Lemonaid, have you tried WT with front derailleur? Has anyone tried if front derailleur is able to drop the chain from WT chainring?


Look at the tooth profiles - I'd bet trying to shift with these profiled tooth shape rings would result in really, really shitty shifting both up and down. Not to mention it's going to chew up the parts of the tooth profiles that make them work. You'd be better off getting a regular tooth profiled singlespeed ring. (or keep you e.13 ring) It's still going to shift not so great, but it'll work better than a WT ring. Add something like one of the newer two ring lower roller guide setups, or a Blackspire Stinger. They are cheap, light, easy to install, and just plain work.

Just lifitng and pushing laterally by hand, it's hard enough to get the chain to move on these rings, in comparison to a regular ring.


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## Holyzeus (Feb 3, 2011)

I'm almost ready to call troll...


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## Prestige (Oct 22, 2010)

Holyzeus said:


> I'm almost ready to call troll...


Sorry if it seems like one. I'm just curious, since I haven't seen WT ring live yet. I'll stick to my 2x10 for now. I can't get enough range from 1X10 with 11-36 rear cassette for my current needs on enduro race bike. My 29r hardtrail is 1X10 and I'm loving it, just need to get rid of my chainguide and get WT ring instead. Hopefully Sram X01 introduces rear cassette with more range and lot cheaper than XX1 rear cassette so I can do the same for the race bike.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

Prestige said:


> Sorry if it seems like one. I'm just curious, since I haven't seen WT ring live yet. I'll stick to my 2x10 for now. I can't get enough range from 1X10 with 11-36 rear cassette for my current needs on enduro race bike. On my 29r hardtrail I have 1X10 and loving it, just need to get rid of my chainguide and get WT ring instead. Hopefully Sram X01 introduces rear cassette with more range and lot cheaper than XX1 rear cassette so I can do the same for the race bike.


You could certainly try it, but I think you'd be wasting your money trying to do a 2x with these rings. I mean, they are specifically designed to keep the chain on. Owning a couple, I can't imagine them shifting decently at all.


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## rsmarg (Apr 28, 2008)

*Oh Baby*

After much research and deliberation I pulled the trigger, mounted up a Wolftooth 28T GXP direct mount, and I friggin' LOVE it!

Previously - as seen in the pic below - I was running a 2x10: SRAM X9 crankarm mated to an X7 S1400 104/64 BCD spider that enabled me to run a 35T/24T setup with a bash. On the back am running an X9 Type 2 derailleur with an XG-1099 11-36T cassette. XX Grip Shifters rounded things out.

At first I was really hesitant to make the switch b/c - where I live and ride - I used every last bit of that 24T front/36T rear combo. But for a week I forced myself to stay out of the 36T and 32T rings in the back and I could hack it. So I went with the Wolftooth 28T front.

Setup was a cinch. I threaded up a new SRAM PG-1031 chain by following WT's instructions: run it on the front ring to the big ring in back, then add three links plus an extra for the SRAM quick link.

Dropping the two front chainrings, bash guard, front derailleur and front shifter shed 1.2 lbs.

On the trail it has been butter. I logged 4 hours up Boreas Pass and down the Gold Dust Trail on Sunday, then 1.5 hrs up and down Chimney Gulch this morning. For those unfamiliar with these trails: long, grinding uphills (Chimney with techy sections in the climbs) followed by long, choppy, rocky downhills.

Zero chain drop. Zero. Even when boosting and landing off kickers in a variety of rear gear combos. And I never once felt out-gunned on the climbs. Certainly the bigger ring will force me to get stronger and have better endurance, but its not a radical change.

I absolutely love the simplicity, the weight loss, and the cleanliness of the whole system. Being out on Boreas, which is close to nowhere, it actually gave me some piece of mind knowing there was a few less parts to worry about busting.

Kudos to Wolftooth. My only recommendation would be to stamp these things as being from Minneapolis or Minnesota in addition to Made in USA. Lots to be proud of. Nice work.


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## Dibbs_ (Feb 17, 2009)

*Another arrival*

Mine arrived. 88bcd XTR 985


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## djball (Nov 3, 2010)

So do you guys riding singles(without bash guards or skid plate) just get off where you are likely to grind your chain/ring? I like rolling over logs and there's lot of them around here... am I gonna destroy gear running this setup?


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## someoldfart (Mar 14, 2013)

I think that there is enough clearance with 28 or 30 that a bashing is superfluous. I run a 36 on my Nomad and it is rare that I hit anything. There are logs to go over but those tend to be soft enough that the rings don't get hurt. I think I dragged my 32 single ring on my highball across a few logs too. Chain seemed to be fine. Don't know if I want to nail rock hard with my chain though. I would think if that was a frequent thing that a taco bash if small enough could be golden. You don't want too much because part of the beauty of a single small ring is the clearance you get. 

I could see merit in mounting a 22or24 big mountain gear for climbs like See Colours and Puke in Whistler. Long grind. 600 metres elevation gain I think? A good hour of climbing anyway. 

And you couldn't use a derailleur. Wolf tooth rings and others like that are designed to hold the chain. Regular rings are designed to let the chain drop or pick the chain up when you shift.


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## PhilGau (Sep 20, 2010)

I've been running a wolftooth 30t with xtr m985 cranks and the rest of the XX1 gear for a week and am happy to say the system has been virtually flawless so far after 5 hours running in various conditions. Chainline seems fine.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

Just an update for those that are curious about how the WT rings are working out.

Been using 34t SRAM DM for 2 months now. I am using a long cage X9 rear derailleur with NO clutch. 

I've had absolutely no dropped chains in 2 months. With my 2x10 set up I'd drop a chain to the small gear in front 2-3 times a ride. 

Got a nice 2 hour ride in today on a trail that is a bit rockier than I'm used to and dropping a chain was not even on my mind.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

djball said:


> So do you guys riding singles(without bash guards or skid plate) just get off where you are likely to grind your chain/ring? I like rolling over logs and there's lot of them around here... am I gonna destroy gear running this setup?


Absolutely enough clearance with 30T and lower;even 32T in ran 1X9 on a 26'r, that bash not required. As someoldfart posted one of the best advantages running one small ring up front is rarely scraping or hitting anything with a chainring. One thing I don't miss about a big ring is hitting logs and scraping rocks. Never even used the damn thing riding. I'm running 30T as big ring on 2x10 29'er, and am happy to say do not spin out on the trails. Just set up my 650b 1x10 with WT 30t direct mount. Am a bit concerned about 30:11 as a high gear on 650b wheels, though.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

droanx said:


> Just an update for those that are curious about how the WT rings are working out.
> 
> Been using 34t SRAM DM for 2 months now. I am using a long cage X9 rear derailleur with NO clutch.
> 
> ...


That is good news for me. Ordering my crank tonight and hopefully ring next week.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback on the rings! 
We are doing our best to get some new (different) product out in the next few weeks. I know some are waiting on 120 BCD rings, 38t 104 rings, etc). Keep an eye on our facebook for details.


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## TrevorJohn (Apr 18, 2011)

I am running a Wolftooth 30t 104 on my Raceface SixC cranks. I converted it from 24/36/bash to the Wolftooth with Bash. This is on my Ellsworth Evolution with XO clutch Derailleur XX 11-36 cassette with a new SRAM chain.

I absolutely love this set up. It is whisper quiet and never has dropped a chain. Did I say I love this setup..

My A1 bike guys recommendation was to leave the chain a little longer. He said this contributes to super smooth shifting. It is a understatement when I say this guys knows and lives bikes...so I went with his recommendation. Like I said no chain drop problem at all... I will take a look at the chain length and report back on it....

Thank you WolfTooth keep up the awesome work.
TJ


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

I have a brand new SRAM 8 speed chain that I had bought for a single speed conversion that I never did. Bike is gone/project scrapped. I recently ordered a 32T WTC chainring to do a 1 x 10. Being very technically challenged... would the 8 speed chain be too short for the 1 x 10? I just want to use the chain if possible since it is just wasting space in my garage at the moment.


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## droanx (Jun 10, 2012)

Hey sandyeggo,

The chain won't be too short but it will be too wide. It probably won't go through a 10sp derailleur and it will be too fat on a 10sp cassette. You will need to run a 10sp chain on a 10sp cassette. An 11sp chain may work on a 10sp cassette but those chains are more expensive anyways.

Good luck!



sandyeggo said:


> I have a brand new SRAM 8 speed chain that I had bought for a single speed conversion that I never did. Bike is gone/project scrapped. I recently ordered a 32T WTC chainring to do a 1 x 10. Being very technically challenged... would the 8 speed chain be too short for the 1 x 10? I just want to use the chain if possible since it is just wasting space in my garage at the moment.


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## slyfink (Apr 15, 2004)

so I had my first 'dropped' chain yesterday... It was actually more of a thrown chain than dropped. it came off of the top of the ring in a compression at the bottom of hill trying to throw in an extra pedal stroke to get up a steep rock face ahead. It happened in the compression when I hit a rock on the bottom of my crankarm on the downstroke of a furious few pedal strokes, so a high-speed big-hit. 

I'm pretty sure a standard drive train would have dropped a chain too. I'm guessing only a proper DH bashguard with top and bottom retention would have prevented it.

After 3 months of solid abuse (in really wet grimy conditions this year ) I'm still thouroughly impressed.

(for reference, this is on an Ibis HD, 32 tooth ring, 11-16 XT cassette, Zee derailleur (ss & w clutch) and a KMC chain)


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## crossracer (Jun 27, 2004)

Just did my first ride, slx ten speed setup, with shadow plus der on the rear. Converted a xt octa link crankset to take the wolftooth ring. 

Absolutly the quietest, smoothest drive train I have ever run in 20 plus years of mtn biking. No drops, wet conditions so lots of wheel slippage. All told highly impressed with the set up. Going to mention to my customers as a great alternative to multi ring fronts. 

Hard to believe my bike started the year as a 3x8 full suspention and now has both shocks tuned by push and a great 1x10 drive train.
Feels fan-damn-tastick 

Bill


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

droanx said:


> Hey sandyeggo,
> 
> The chain won't be too short but it will be too wide. It probably won't go through a 10sp derailleur and it will be too fat on a 10sp cassette. You will need to run a 10sp chain on a 10sp cassette. An 11sp chain may work on a 10sp cassette but those chains are more expensive anyways.
> 
> Good luck!


Ah - I didn't even think about the thickness. Thanks for the response!


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## jmallory (Jul 29, 2008)

Anybody consistently ride rocky trails with this set up? Thinking of giving it a try but all my trails are rough rock gardens. Seems pretty legit though.


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

I'm riding pretty rocky Trails with rocky climbs and rock gardens here and there with a 1x10 setup with a Wolf's 30 tooth with 11-36 and so far i feel the gear range has been pretty good with enough low gear to go through anything. I think alot of it will depend on rider skill and fitness when riding these types of conditions to an extent. I'm also running a bash guard to be safe. 


I'm riding a 2013 Specialized camber Comp

I'm riding French Creek state Park in PA, anybody that has rode there can attest to how rocky it is.


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## jmallory (Jul 29, 2008)

jammin said:


> I'm riding pretty rocky Trails with rocky climbs and rock gardens here and there with a 1x10 setup with a Wolf's 30 tooth with 11-36 and so far i feel the gear range has been pretty good with enough low gear to go through anything. I think alot of it will depend on rider skill and fitness when riding these types of conditions to an extent. I'm also running a bash guard to be safe.
> 
> I'm riding a 2013 Specialized camber Comp
> 
> I'm riding French Creek state Park in PA, anybody that has rode there can attest to how rocky it is.


Thanks, not too worried about being able to pedal but more about dropping a chain. Looks like I'll be ordering one!


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

jmallory said:


> Thanks, not too worried about being able to pedal but more about dropping a chain. Looks like I'll be ordering one!


Ahh, I have not dropped a chain yet and i have about 50 miles on the 30 tooth so far. Mind you i'm using a clutch rear derailleur.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I dropped a chain on my first ride. Insanely muddy, rocky and rooty. I was actively trying to get it to come off - going thru chunk in my 11t cog, back pedaling...

It came off, but only after a few hours of me trying. Since then, I've had it in normal conditions, still riding hard through rock gardens with no issues. 

I've got a good chainline on the DM 32t, running X0 cranks and an X0 type 2 RD.


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Forgot to ad that i went from the original 36 down to a 32 then a 30 and left chain same size with no issue's. I'm running Sram cranks with 104bcd.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Finally got my 650b FS converted to 1X10, with 30T WT direct mount up front on X9 cranks , XO Shadow mech, X9 shifter, & 11-36 cassette.









Since I have a 650b HT I run 1X9 with a bashwhich for chain retention, the new build looked a bit naked with no guide or even bashguard. Clearly you don't need a bash with a 30T as a tooth guard, but as far as retention old habits die hard.

But, rode the new set up in rocky chunk for 3 hours this afternoon. Chunky enough for my bar to slip in the stem. But not the slightest hint of the chain coming loose. The WT tooth pattern and the shadow clutch keep the chain quiet and on the rings. So now chain retention seems like so much extra coin and weight on the bike. Buh bye.

Another satisfied and happy WT customer here!


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

WolfTooth 32T chainring installed. Test ride on the street was excellent. Love the simplicity/quietness of the no front derailleur. First trail ride tomorrow. Can't wait!


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

For those that have dropped a chain, did it drop to the inside or outside of the chainring?


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## Bike Therapy (Jul 12, 2013)

Hi Guys. I ride a pivot 5.7. I came from a 1X10 with a normal 32t Raceface chainring and a MRP Lopes chainguide and switched it out to a 30T Wolf Tooth GXP chainring. I only have one 8 mile ride on it. I didnt use a new chain but the chain on there is about 3 months old. I rode l my bike like I was trying to make the chain fall on purpose taking awfulle rocky lines o purpose. I never dropped the chain where with the raceface chainring I dropped the chain 3 times on an easier ride. I saved weight ditching the star on the cranks, the chaing guide and the pivot adapter for the ICG 05. The chain is dead silent while pedaling which is a huge difference from having a chain guide. Im using Squirt chain lube. Im going on a 23 mile night ride today which is also a rough ride. Im pretty sure I wont drop the chain.


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## Lemonaid (May 13, 2013)

50 miles and counting over rocks, roots, streams, mud no chain drops yet.


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

sandyeggo said:


> WolfTooth 32T chainring installed. Test ride on the street was excellent. Love the simplicity/quietness of the no front derailleur. First trail ride tomorrow. Can't wait!


I did my first ride with it today - 20 miles of single track, mostly XC-type with a few rocky sections. No issues whatsoever. What I really noticed was how quiet the drive train was both while pedaling and with regards to chain slap (none, with the clutch engaged).


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

My 1x drivetrain on this bike has gone through a number of iterations. 

First it was 1x9 X0 with a twist shifter, using a Homebrewed 30t chainring and a Paul chain keeper.

Then it was 1x10 with an XT shifter and derailleur.

Then I installed an MRP Bling Ring to get a better chainline.

The Paul chain keeper worked pretty well, but it was finicky. It had to be adjusted perfectly to work well, and it was easy to knock it out of adjustment on the trail. On a few occasions the chain got jammed between the Paul guide and the chainring. 

So I decided to get rid of the chain keeper by intalling a Wolf Tooth 30t ring and an XT Shadow+ rear derailleur.

Before and after photos:


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## Dry Side (Jun 7, 2011)

S-Works Stump Jumper Carbon 29 XTR 1x10 w/Wolf Tooth 32T


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## Bmann_mtb (Oct 11, 2009)

UPDATE

Ok just wanted to give my opinion after about 6 weeks of riding with this sprocket.

This product gets 5 stars from my experience with it. No more dropped chains at all and running smooth as expected.

I have crashed twice bent hanger and derailler 6 stitches and still not a dropped chain. My area has been a muddy mess most of this season and have been replacing parts on my bike left and right but no more drama on the front so at least that area is rock solid.


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

MondoRides said:


> I have a 32T front direct mount on my X0 cranks, XT Shadow+ derailleur, and a 1070 with the General Lee 11-40 cassette (25, 29, 34 & 40T rings). Great range with this setup but the shifting is slightly finicky going from the SRAM to the GL rings and back. Just a slight delay in the transition across cogs but otherwise stellar. According to the Pink Bike review on this setup the SRAM shifter/derailleur combo works better than Shimano so you may have even better results.
> 
> If I had to do it all over again I would probably have gone with the 30T front ring but overall most of my regular climbs are manageable with this setup.
> 
> ...oh, and no dropped chains although it's only been 3 rides in dry conditions


Thought I would post some pics of my setup for posterity here as well


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Nice setup, what kind of chain ring guard is that?


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

jammin said:


> Nice setup, what kind of chain ring guard is that?


It's an MRP XCG bottom bracket mounted bash. Haven't had to put it to use yet but gives me plenty of peace-of-mind.


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

MondoRides said:


> It's an MRP XCG bottom bracket mounted bash. Haven't had to put it to use yet but gives me plenty of peace-of-mind.


Thx. for the info, Just checked they don't make one to fit my bike.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

jammin said:


> Thx. for the info, Just checked they don't make one to fit my bike.


With a WTC ring you shouldn't need one. Definitely not if you have clutch rear mech. Chain remains on with those two components alone.

Chain guide just more $, more weight, and another part to mount and maintain. A waste all the way if you don't need it to hold the chain on.


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## jmallory (Jul 29, 2008)

Got my Wolftooth chain ring and I am very impressed! Running 34t with 11-36 cassette, SLX clutch derailleur, and Race Face bash. Only been a couple rides but rode the 2 rockiest trails I could think of and no problems. I really like running no guide, less weight and less resistance. Definitely recommend it to anyone wanting to go 1x


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

dwt said:


> With a WTC ring you shouldn't need one. Definitely not if you have clutch rear mech. Chain remains on with those two components alone.
> 
> Chain guide just more $, more weight, and another part to mount and maintain. A waste all the way if you don't need it to hold the chain on.


Surely you know the difference between a chain guide and a bash guard. Not that you said anything I disagree with... Just that he's talking about his bash.


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

dwt said:


> With a WTC ring you shouldn't need one. Definitely not if you have clutch rear mech. Chain remains on with those two components alone.
> 
> Chain guide just more $, more weight, and another part to mount and maintain. A waste all the way if you don't need it to hold the chain on.


Please reread the post ,It's a bash Guard, i ride alot of rocky trials and ride over alot of logs. Was looking at this instead of the traditional crank mounted bash.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> Surely you know the difference between a chain guide and a bash guard. Not that you said anything I disagree with... Just that he's talking about his bash.


Whoops. Missed that.

How about you don't need a bash with a 32T chainring, which is too small to hit anything anyway. Again, more $, more weight, installation etc.


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## steelbike (Jan 6, 2004)

At around 70 bucks a pop for a ring, I'm sure that riders in rocky areas know when to use a bash guard and save$$$$



dwt said:


> Whoops. Missed that.
> 
> How about you don't need a bash with a 32T chainring, which is too small to hit anything anyway. Again, more $, more weight, installation etc.


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

dwt said:


> Whoops. Missed that.
> 
> How about you don't need a bash with a 32T chainring, which is too small to hit anything anyway. Again, more $, more weight, installation etc.


I don't agree that a 32t is too small to hit anything. I have a 32t with bash, and the bash ring has taken a beating. I also have a 30t without a bash, and it sometimes hits stuff too.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

jabrabu said:


> I don't agree that a 32t is too small to hit anything. I have a 32t with bash, and the bash ring has taken a beating. I also have a 30t without a bash, and it sometimes hits stuff too.


Yep. All depends on your terrain and how you ride it. Cytoe probably makes a fortune off his linkage protectors...


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

dwt said:


> Whoops. Missed that.
> 
> How about you don't need a bash with a 32T chainring, which is too small to hit anything anyway. Again, more $, more weight, installation etc.


I actually run the 30 tooth and still hit it. My bike (2013 specialized camber comp) Has a low bottom bracket, When you are riding over or trying to hop over large Logs sometimes off the ground or piled up to where you high center then yes you will even hit the 30 tooth. Going down a steep rock ledge i have hit it before, As far as weight you wouldn't even know that little extra is there. If i did care about weight i would buy a carbon bike. As far as more money , I spent what i did on the purchase of my bike so what's a little more $$ going to hurt. I see it as protecting my my investment of the very nice Wolf ring.


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

30T ring on the XTR M985 crank on my Blur TRc, 









and a 28T ring on the SRAM crank on my Reign-X. Both using variations of the MRP AM-Guide. Both bikes have had a fair bit of trail time since install, and the RX has had a couple days of rough lift serve abuse - so far, no drops, no issues! Works great, and so long as WTC doesn't pull a HBC on us, will keep buying their stuff! Still wish they'd make a steel version though!  Slow speed trialsy moves, wheely drops, throwing the rear of the bikes all over the place, high speed drops, jumps and chundery rocks and roots at the resorts? No problem!

1. I already had the guides, so the money isn't the issue. Minimal weight penalty for what I feel are the benefits. YMMV, obviously.

2. They ARE rather spendy little rings - I'd like to protect them. Yeah, they appear stout, and you'd likely really have to nail something hard to break/bend the ring. But still...I've seen and had it happen with enough other rings to know it's possible. Even with being a somewhat smooth rider, it still can happen. Hack riding moments happen.

3. Maybe I don't NEED the upper retention, but, we have all read of instances of chain drop with these narrow-wide style of rings. May be rare, but it can and does happen. I have had bad things happen in the past with some slipped and dropped chains, and the little extra bit of security for it is nice to have int he back of my head.

Not to mention, how well are these kinds of rings going to hold when everything starts getting a bit more worn and loose? If the upper guide keeps me from dropping a chain in a potentially uh, sub-optimal situation due to me not quite having gotten around to replacing it yet, well, good.

It's not as if these guides are adding any drag on the system either. Bash bits sit a bit inboard of the chain on the bottom, and just around and above the chain up top. No drag, quiet. My experiences with chain drop in the past have always been to the inside off the bottom, and either way off the top - this solves that issue!


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## crossracer (Jun 27, 2004)

Ok, this ring just works great. I hit a series of roots rough enough to shake me off my full suspention. I wreaked, but the chain stayed glued to that ring. 

Excellent product. 

Bill


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,

Just an update if you aren't big facebook fans. We have opened the pre-sale on 120BCD 36t rings now (or finally as most waiting for them would say). 

I will have some other exciting new product news next week to share too...


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> Yep. All depends on your terrain and how you ride it. Cytoe probably makes a fortune off his linkage protectors...


Yes. My 1X10 has 30T WTC ring, and for my terrain and style I never hit anything (as opposed to when I had triple. 42T constantly scraping rocks and getting caught up in logs).

For me 1X is all about taking stuff OFF my bike. The great thing about WTC ring is not needing to put a chain guide ON. Bash guard optional, depending on whether your ring is at risk. Mine is not, so no bash. Keeping it simple.


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> ...I will have some other exciting new product news next week to share too...


Hoping this will be 102 BCD rings. I have a polished XTR 960 crank that could benefit here :thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dwt said:


> How about you don't need a bash with a 32T chainring, which is too small to hit anything anyway. Again,* more $*, more weight, installation etc.


An XCG is less expensive than a new chainring.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

I hope it isnt a bb30 direct. I sm ordering a gxp in hopes that it works. would be sad if it came out just after ordering the gxp


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*XX crankset for 1x*

The 120 BCD rings have a nice clean look on the XX crankset. We really pleased with how these turned out!


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Anyone running a 650b set up? What chainring size are most using? I was thinking of doing a 30t or 32t.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Triaxtremec said:


> Anyone running a 650b set up? What chainring size are most using? I was thinking of doing a 30t or 32t.


Yes. I run 30T direct mount and 11-36 cassette. The bike is close to 30lbs and I admit I could use a lower gear. But 30:11 is not exactly high so I can't sacrifice it for a 38 or 39. Sonebody needs to come out with 11-40.


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Thanks dwt, I was thinking of possibly doing a 30t as I occasionally have to drop to my lower chainring on my current 2x10 set up. I'm not the best climber but I think going 1x10 would actually force to be push myself harder but worry less about shifting.


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

Triaxtremec said:


> Anyone running a 650b set up? What chainring size are most using? I was thinking of doing a 30t or 32t.


I'm running a 32t on my 650b. I live in the midwest and don't have a lot of really long, intense climbs. I chose 32t only because that was the same # of teeth of my middle ring which is the ring I used 95% of the time (and if I changed the ring it would usually be to the big ring). I'm running an 11-36 cassette.

So far, it seems to be working fine for me but I do sometimes yearn for just one more easier gear to go to -- I agree with dwt that an 11-40 cassette would be sweet.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

38t x 104 BCD is on sale now (shipping friday) for all you hammers out there that were waiting on a big ring!

-WTC


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I've been looking at my BB30 crank to determine if I can use a direct mount ring on it. I have what appears to be a 16mm spacer, not 10mm, I haven't removed and measured it but I remember reading somewhere this could also be an option on these cranks. Will this put the ring too far outboard to achieve proper chainline? It is a SRAM S2200 crank on a Cannondale Trigger 29er1.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*CX what?*

Did someone say CX? 
I know this is a Mtb forum, but many of you like to hop the barriers and grind the gravel too!

Shipping 38-44 in both 110 and 130 in August... currently field testing them.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

ALS650L said:


> I've been looking at my BB30 crank to determine if I can use a direct mount ring on it. I have what appears to be a 16mm spacer, not 10mm, I haven't removed and measured it but I remember reading somewhere this could also be an option on these cranks. Will this put the ring too far outboard to achieve proper chainline? It is a SRAM S2200 crank on a Cannondale Trigger 29er1.


Wish we could say for sure but every bike model is different. I just tried one of our 34T direct mount rings on a Scalpel and there was no way -- the ring hit the chainstay and the only spacer was on the drive side already. You could measure from a chainring to the seat tube, swap the spacer and measure again. If it moves out at least 5mm, the ring should fit fine. If it moves much more than say 8mm, you chainline will start to get a little too far out.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Does anyone make a 28t version in 64/104 PCD?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

How much is your chain ring offset from where it mounts on the crank?



WolfTooth said:


> Wish we could say for sure but every bike model is different. I just tried one of our 34T direct mount rings on a Scalpel and there was no way -- the ring hit the chainstay and the only spacer was on the drive side already. You could measure from a chainring to the seat tube, swap the spacer and measure again. If it moves out at least 5mm, the ring should fit fine. If it moves much more than say 8mm, you chainline will start to get a little too far out.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

The smallest ring that fits on a 104 is 30t. We have thought about the 64t offset ring, but don't have any near term plans for it.


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## SSBiker (Nov 12, 2012)

Anyone running 30T with a bashguard on their SS? If you don't mind posting a photo as well. Thanks.


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

Just mounted up my DM 32T WTC Chainring on my BB30 Cannondale, no issues of any kind. I also an running a SRAM X9 Type 2 rear derailleur.

























Michael Wirth
www.treefortbikes.com


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## ejreyes6 (Dec 18, 2010)

Wolf tooth isn't just for us big kids. My 8yr old Ethan rocking the wolf tooth with
a standard short cage x9 with no drops to date.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

mpw29er said:


> Just mounted up my DM 32T WTC Chainring on my BB30 Cannondale, no issues of any kind. I also an running a SRAM X9 Type 2 rear derailleur.
> 
> View attachment 819367
> 
> ...


Awesome!! I have a flash as well and x9 crank. Happy to see it works. Ant chainline pics?

Thanks for posting


----------



## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

mpw29er said:


> Just mounted up my DM 32T WTC Chainring on my BB30 Cannondale, no issues of any kind. I also an running a SRAM X9 Type 2 rear derailleur.
> 
> Michael Wirth
> Tree Fort Bikes - Online Bicycle Parts and Accessories, Bicycle Tools and Maintenance


Do you happen to know how big the spacer on your driveside is?


----------



## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

machine4321 said:


> Awesome!! I have a flash as well and x9 crank. Happy to see it works. Ant chainline pics?
> 
> Thanks for posting


----------



## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

ALS650L said:


> Do you happen to know how big the spacer on your driveside is?


I took apart the crank to remove the spider and noticed the driveside already had a 10mm spacer. I put the ring on and assembled it as it was originally. It is perfect.









I raced this exact setup on Saturday and it was great. It was quiet, fast and very responsive. I had no issues of any kind.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks again! That is a better chainline then my 3x10.


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## gunnirider (Jun 6, 2008)

Have 3 rides now on my Wolf Tooth, love it 32t with a 11-36 cassette. My only gripe is now I'm spun out on most downhills, so may try to get a 10t.

I dropped a pound off my bike, best upgrade so far!


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## tkjohnson21 (Jun 1, 2010)

Hey has anyone else developed a creaking from the crankset after using one of the direct mount rings? I am getting a creaking that i think i have traced to this. I love the ring by the way it works great on my Jet9.


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## Stonerider (Feb 25, 2008)

Wolftooth, You should post the picture of the 42 tooth in the cyclocross sub forum as well so that it's received by the intended audience. It looks like something many CX racers have been waiting for.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Had an incident today that could have been a disaster. A stick get caught up in my chain and jammed onto the cassette. Thank Zeus, it bypassed the SRAM Type 2 mech so I avoided the broken derailleur, bent hanger, bent spokes trifecta. With the WTC chainring and Type 2 clutch the stick lifted the chain but it stayed on the chainring as well as cassette. If that wasn't going to do it, nothing will. Hereby declare that WT Ring+ clutch mech is foolproof. NO chain. retention device needed.


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## johnlh (Aug 16, 2008)

I experienced this when I upgraded my 1x10 set up to an XX1 crankset. It seems that the lower teeth on the chain ring hold onto the chain for a brief moment before releasing it, creating a crunching/clanking sound from the bb area. My experience has been this is worst with a newer, or dirty chain. I just upgraded to full XX1 last week, and it took about 100 miles before it stopped doing this.


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## Tomkat27 (Jan 10, 2009)

Here mine. 32T 11-36. Never drop a chain too.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Here's mine with a BBG bashguard. No dropped chains so far.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

What's the point of a NW chainring if you run a bashie, isn't that the whole idea? other than the obvious protection, just saying....


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

tkjohnson21 said:


> Hey has anyone else developed a creaking from the crankset after using one of the direct mount rings? I am getting a creaking that i think i have traced to this. I love the ring by the way it works great on my Jet9.


Yep. Intensified at high torque. Took the ring off, greased all metal to metal contact points, now completely silent.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Usually a bash isn't there for chain retention. It's more for protection. A chainguide would've been out of place. I ride in a rocky area so I like having a bash around.


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## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

is this the best place to check in for updates on new stock? I'm waiting anxiously for availability of the 30t SRAM GXP direct mount.


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

RTM said:


> is this the best place to check in for updates on new stock? I'm waiting anxiously for availability of the 30t SRAM GXP direct mount.


Just spoke with them this AM. Pre-sale for these is opening up midweek and the are planning on shipping this Friday or next Monday.


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## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

mpw29er said:


> Just spoke with them this AM. Pre-sale for these is opening up midweek and the are planning on shipping this Friday or next Monday.


Outstanding! Thanks.

- Rob


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey RTM,
The best place is our Facebook page. I know that not everyone is a FB fan, but there is just no more expeditious way for us to push information like that out: 
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Wolf-Tooth-Components-LLC/155112457987558

-Brendan
WTC


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

Dear WolfTooth, since you guys are now doing 110 PCD CX rings please consider making 34T rings as well; there are still a huge number of old MTB cranks out there that these would fit. 30 & 32T for 94 PCD (5 bolt) would be good too.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

satanas said:


> Dear WolfTooth, since you guys are now doing 110 PCD CX rings please consider making 34T rings as well; there are still a huge number of old MTB cranks out there that these would fit. 30 & 32T for 94 PCD (5 bolt) would be good too.


Yup!!

P.S. It's "BCD".


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Cheaper but add in the chain guide....


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

aosty said:


> P.S. It's "BCD".


Depends on whether you're referring to "Pitch Circle Diameter" or "Bolt Circle Diameter" basically the same thing with chainwheels; both terms are correct...


----------



## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

satanas said:


> Depends on whether you're referring to "Pitch Circle Diameter" or "Bolt Circle Diameter" basically the same thing with chainwheels; both terms are correct...


Ah, thanks.


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## Dave862 (May 3, 2006)

*Wolftooth DM Sram 1X9*

About 10 rides in rocks and roots never an issue.
My riding buddies think I'm on my singlespeed It's that quiet 
No chainslap and very solid shifting.
I'm sold...


----------



## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Few months in now. Non clutch x9 rear der. And not 1 dropped chain running 32t direct mount


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

*Now in stock!*

Our first batch of Wolf Tooth Components chainrings arrived today. We have in stock and ready to ship:

- 104 BCD 30T, 32T and 34T
- 110 BCD CX in 42T
- GXP Direct Mount in 34T 
- GXP Bashguards 28/30 and 32/34

We will be receiving GXP DM in 30T, 32T next week and 38, 40T CX rings next week as well. Get them while they're hot!


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## BacDoc (May 31, 2011)

Been running a Wolf 32 on my Giant Anthem X29 with SLX crank (no chain guide) and XT clutch RD 1X10 with great performance and no chain drop. Thinking of getting a 30 as I spend a lot of time in the larger cogs of the rear cassette. Saw something on the Wolf website about different chain line and not sure how it will work on my bike.

Anything I need to know about changing the 32 to the 30? Any install issues? I'm running 1 spacer on my Shimano pressfit BB and chain line is good with the 11-36 cassette.


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

The 30T will move your chainline in 2mm -- you likely won't even notice. Just make sure you use bolts with at least 8mm of threaded length (most standard double/triple chainrings bolts). If anything, install is easier than with the larger rings as this one is threaded so there are no nuts to mess with.
Mike


----------



## BacDoc (May 31, 2011)

Thanks Mike! Ordering a 30 today!


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## The Hookler (Oct 30, 2004)

Just installed my 30t last week. It took longer to pull off all the other bits than to install this ring. Reused the crank bolts for the big to middle ring, no problems. Got two rides in it so far and I'm loving it. Thanks WT. 
Running an old beat up X9 9spd and not one dropped chain. Super stoked on this product. Keep up the good work.


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Got a few more rides in on my 32t ring. It rained hard while riding and the mud was pretty bad. Not a single drop due to mud or the rock gardens.


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Okay, I'm slowly moving towards this Wolftooth setup.
I've got the 32t 104bcd Ring. I also have a new XT shadow plus derailer. 

My question... 
Are most people installing a new cassette and chain while making the switch? ... I'm wondering if I'll get better performance and durability over the lifetime if I just do a complete build with new cassette and chain.

Or, is it not necessary if the cassette and chain are in decent shape (6 months of heavy use).


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

addATX said:


> Okay, I'm slowly moving towards this Wolftooth setup.
> I've got the 32t 104bcd Ring. I also have a new XT shadow plus derailer.
> 
> My question...
> ...


It's not necessary if they are in good shape, but I think it's a good idea to go ahead and replace the chain, especially since yours has 6 months of heavy use. Chains aren't that expensive, and you'll be removing your chain anyway since you are replacing your derailleur.


----------



## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

I have a SRAM X0 GXP crankset (triple spider), so I have the option of buying a 30T ring in either the direct mount or 104 BCD version, correct? What are the pros/cons of each?


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

The direct mount will give you a better chainline and is lighter, once you add up spider, bolts, and ring. Also, having a solid piece connected to your crank gives you better efficiency, though I don't know that you'd actually feel it that much.

The upside of the 104bcd is that it's useable on a wider variety of cranks.


----------



## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

In addition to my WTC direct mount 30t, I also have an Andersen 30t 104bcd and a Homebrew 31t 104 bcd. 

The Andersen has shift ramps so I use it with a 2X10 drivetrain. The Homebrew is on a 1X9 27.5" bike. 

Both of the 104 bcd rings required grinding/filing material off the spider in order for the chain to fit. 

How does WTC get around this? If you have the choice, direct spline mount is the clear superior choice IMO


----------



## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

golden boy said:


> I have a SRAM X0 GXP crankset (triple spider), so I have the option of buying a 30T ring in either the direct mount or 104 BCD version, correct? What are the pros/cons of each?


The SRAM X0 triple (44-33-22T) should have a 104/64 BCD spider. It should be engraved somewhere in the spider. Personally I like the direct mount for the aesthetics but as scvkurt03 notes you'll also see a better chainline and some weight savings as well.


----------



## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

Sounds like direct mount is the way to go. Thanks guys!


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

Direct mount WTC 32T vs XX1 32T/Spider and bolts:


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

For mounting the bash guard to a direct mount chain ring, what kind of chain ring bolts do I need? Single or double?

Ideally I'd like some lightweight double-hex bolts that are available in colors. Any recommendations?


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

dwt said:


> In addition to my WTC direct mount 30t, I also have an Andersen 30t 104bcd and a Homebrew 31t 104 bcd.
> 
> The Andersen has shift ramps so I use it with a 2X10 drivetrain. The Homebrew is on a 1X9 27.5" bike.
> 
> ...


The ring itself is threaded, with an extra 2mm or so of threaded hole on the outboard side of the ring, spacing the ring from the spider that distance, which is just enough to keep the chain clear of the spider.


----------



## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

scvkurt03 said:


> The ring itself is threaded, with an extra 2mm or so of threaded hole on the outboard side of the ring, spacing the ring from the spider that distance, which is just enough to keep the chain clear of the spider.


Excellent. Again, you are ahead of the competition


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

mpw29er said:


> Our first batch of Wolf Tooth Components chainrings arrived today. We have in stock and ready to ship:
> 
> - 104 BCD 30T, 32T and 34T
> - 110 BCD CX in 42T
> ...


Which size chainring bolts do I use to mount the GXP bashguard to the GXP direct mount ring?


----------



## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

Just put in a preorder for a 26t direct mount for my xx1. Back to granny heaven. Yeehaw.


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

jabrabu said:


> Which size chainring bolts do I use to mount the GXP bashguard to the GXP direct mount ring?


Well, I bought these chainring bolts, which are advertised and labeled as single chainring bolts, but they are too long:
Amazon.com: Problem Solvers Single Chainring Bolt/Nut Set Alloy Hex Nut Set of 5 Silver: Sports & Outdoors

It would be nice if Wolftooth included proper bolts with the bashguard.


----------



## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

jabrabu said:


> Well, I bought these chainring bolts, which are advertised and labeled as single chainring bolts, but they are too long:
> Amazon.com: Problem Solvers Single Chainring Bolt/Nut Set Alloy Hex Nut Set of 5 Silver: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> It would be nice if Wolftooth included proper bolts with the bashguard.


http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Single-Chainring-Bolts/dp/B00653DKEE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_4

Would have been the set to get...


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

jabrabu said:


> For mounting the bash guard to a direct mount chain ring, what kind of chain ring bolts do I need? Single or double?
> 
> Ideally I'd like some lightweight double-hex bolts that are available in colors. Any recommendations?


Sorry you got the wrong bolts from Amazon! The Problem Solvers p/n is CR0011 Problem Solvers
There are other brands of SS bolts that will work as well. We are looking for a good product to sell on our web store but it's not as easy as you might think. Will get the PS part number in our FAQ for now.
Mike


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

skyak said:


> Just put in a preorder for a 26t direct mount for my xx1. Back to granny heaven. Yeehaw.


Those have been shipping for a few days now -- hope you received yours. Let us know how it works!
Mike


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Hi Mike

Per our previous discussions on the mounting of two bashrings (outer/inner) to your SRAM DM chainring.

What length chainring bolts would allow this.

JG


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Hi mike,

For the 30T ring, will I still be able to use the xtr crank bolt covers with it? Or would I need to ditch those and use plain crank bolts?

Thanks


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Mikkosan,
You will have to use standard bolts because the 30t is threaded.

-Brendan
WTC


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Gripo said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> Per our previous discussions on the mounting of two bashrings (outer/inner) to your SRAM DM chainring.
> 
> ...


You will want a bolt with a threaded length of at least 8mm -- these are pretty common. Ideally, you also want a nut with a length of about 10mm -- probably something out there but I don't have a part number or anything. This is an application we had not anticipated so you may need to get a little creative on the hardware.
Mike


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## CasinoKiD (Aug 19, 2004)

ejreyes6 said:


> Just finished installing the 34t direct mount on a xo bb30. I know is is supposed to be for gxp, but I always had to shim my chain guide out and run spacers on the chainring inward to have a good chainline. Well after installing the direct mount my chainline is perfect. So their is some cases where this will work with a BB30 crank.
> Now let see the performance without a clutch type derailluer. I am running a bionicon v guide though
> Btw I dropped 100 grams
> 
> ...


I think MTBR is having tech problems displaying thumbnail pics. I have a brand new in the box X0 BB30/PF30 crankset that I want to install onto my Niner Air 9 Carbon. I'm looking to go 1x10 with a DM Wolf Tooth. I read somewhere that OEM X0 PF30 cranks might be different than buying the aftermarket set. Something about having a longer or shorter spindle and the size of the spacers. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## in the trees (Mar 24, 2005)

I've been running a 28T Sram Direct Mount for the past few months. Set-up on a 1x10 hardtail with Shimano XT 11-36, Shimano chain, and Zee rear derailleur - no additional guide. I have NOT dropped the chain once while riding rocky, rooty New England terrain. Nice stuff!


----------



## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

I've got a couple rides on a 30t, direct mount w/XT shadow plus dérailleur. It is fantastic! I've been running chain guides for so long I forgot how much cleaner the cranks spin without them. So smooth. 

The clutch RD is exceeding my expectations as well. I think i have found drivetrain nirvana. Though I don't want to jinx myself, it's only been two rides. 

Can someone with long term experience let us know about the durability? I'll be replacing this ring with another wolf tooth for sure.


----------



## emailpeter (Nov 21, 2012)

*Major chain flap at 13T & 11T.*

If Wolftooth or any users here can guide me.

Like to determine if getting a WT32T is the answer.
The photo shows I run eThirteen 32T SS ring (non W/N)-teeth quite long.
XTR RD Clutch-pretty much optimised to tight B screw, strong clutch grip and shortest chain length. (Those who tune all these know there is limit and pro/cons to extreme settings)
That temporary DIY is to tame chain flapping, will be taken off soon.

My issue is chain drops only at 13T and 11T. Culprit is a left/right flapping of chain, like a fish out of water.... Fast downhill curves require me at those gears, when it bumps, chain falls off 50% of time. Falls only to the right and at top chain only.

My main question is whether WT32T will solve that ? Chain flaps hard right/left and if angle is great enough, can even a strong WT grip on chain lossen off ??

All opinions and guidance from all welcome....Thanks


----------



## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

emailpeter said:


> If Wolftooth or any users here can guide me.
> 
> Like to determine if getting a WT32T is the answer.
> The photo shows I run eThirteen 32T SS ring (non W/N)-teeth quite long.
> ...


The ring will help, but may or may not cure it entirely. Sounds as if you may have too much chain.


----------



## emailpeter (Nov 21, 2012)

scrublover said:


> The ring will help, but may or may not cure it entirely. Sounds as if you may have too much chain.


Nah, unlikely. Tested at full chain growth, I had not a single spare gap left.
Previous trial with less chain resulted in RD cage curving to spokes and snapped one.


----------



## lemonyo (Feb 18, 2009)

Hi Mike,

My chain is "sliding" on the 11-13-15T. I changed my chain to a new one thinking this might solve the problem. Took the bike for a ride this morning with the new XTR m980 chain installed. It still does the sliding. Before I converted to 1x10, I haven't experienced this sliding of the chain on the 3x10 drivetrain.

I run a 36T on M980 cranks, 11-36 cogs & Medium cage RD . 

Thanks!


----------



## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

NordieBoy said:


> Amazon.com: Problem Solvers Single Chainring Bolts, Aluminum, Black, Set of 5: Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Would have been the set to get...


Yeah, I ended up getting these:
Amazon.com: Vuelta Alloy Chainring Bolt Set (Black, Single): Sports & Outdoors

They work fine, but aren't the double-hex style that I would have preferred.


----------



## stuart.cunningham (Mar 29, 2011)

Hey guys (and gals), Need some advice 

Im getting the 104BCD 30t ring, and am wondering what cranks will be best to get for chainline. I am tossing up between Zee cranks (single chainring) and the SLX 2x10 cranks. 

My question is, if I go for the SLX, will the chain hit the little tabs? Or would I be better of getting the ZEE because the chainline is already set up for single ring. 

Bike is a Banshee Rune V2, XT shadow+ medium cage, 11-36 cassette.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Lemonyo,
The chain sliding will have nothing to do w/ the chainring. 
How new is your cassette? It sounds like you might be a gear masher and just have worn out your small cogs!!

-Brendan


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Stuart,
The middle position of the SLX will be just as optimized for 1x as a 1x Zee crankset. In either case our 30t ring is offset 2mm so the chain will not hit the crankset.
-Brendan


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@emailpeter,
It should fix your problem. Controlling right to left motion is what the wide/narrow does. That combined w/ our unique tooth profile should keep your chain on even in the rough stuff (we had a pro enduro guy up at Whistler that did the entire festival w/out any type of chain guide.

Here is some unsolicited video that an emag did on this: Wolf Tooth Components ? XX1 Style Chainring Test | I-MTB Magazine

Cheers!
-Brendan


----------



## gunnirider (Jun 6, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> @emailpeter,
> It should fix your problem. Controlling right to left motion is what the wide/narrow does. That combined w/ our unique tooth profile should keep your chain on even in the rough stuff (we had a pro enduro guy up at Whistler that did the entire festival w/out any type of chain guide.
> 
> Here is some unsolicited video that an emag did on this: Wolf Tooth Components ? XX1 Style Chainring Test | I-MTB Magazine
> ...


For some reason I keep dropping my chain on my bike, mainly during rough descents. It's dropping off the front ring. Running 34t WT sram 10 speed x9 type 2, on a Mojo hd. I'm thinking that perhaps the rear derailleur clutch mechanism is wearing out.


----------



## emailpeter (Nov 21, 2012)

Thank Brendan for answer.



WolfTooth said:


> @emailpeter,
> It should fix your problem. Controlling right to left motion is what the wide/narrow does. That combined w/ our unique tooth profile should keep your chain on even in the rough stuff (we had a pro enduro guy up at Whistler that did the entire festival w/out any type of chain guide.
> 
> Here is some unsolicited video that an emag did on this: Wolf Tooth Components ? XX1 Style Chainring Test | I-MTB Magazine
> ...


----------



## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Cool video of the ring in action. Is it me or is that chain way to long?


----------



## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

machine4321 said:


> Cool video of the ring in action. Is it me or is that chain way to long?


Does seem like a lot of slack. I can't see my own bike from the rear, but if I had that much slack in the chain I'm sure I could hear it slapping the chainstay, which I do not. I assume my Clutch mech takes up any excess slack. QUIET is yet another plus for WTC ring + clutch mech. I wonder if the chain guide manufacturers are in panic mode yet? Their products are virtually obsolete now.

The next innovation needed for 1X10 is a mass produced wide range cassette @ 11-40, at a competitive price. Haven't bought a General Lee adapter yet, but they warn to expect less than crisp shifting. A one piece OEM cassette should shift better than an add on, and I would hope be priced affordably.

Maybe if everybody emailed WTC en masse they would agree to machine this cassette? I pledge a purchase of at least one.


----------



## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

Does shimano or SRAM make a 9 speed clutch dérailleur? I have all of these 9 speed cassettes in good condition....


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Nope


----------



## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

machine4321 said:


> Cool video of the ring in action. Is it me or is that chain way to long?


I once saw a photo of me in a DH race, in a pretty mild section, and was shocked to see how much even a properly sized chain with a chain guide will still travel around.


----------



## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

JMac47 said:


> Nope


Ah just hate answers like that. Would any of you guys happen to know the cheapest clutch setup going (rear derailleur, shifter, cog, chain)? How about the "best value" (price + performance)?

Thanks 

Joe


----------



## friz (Dec 2, 2012)

Fastskiguy said:


> Ah just hate answers like that. Would any of you guys happen to know the cheapest clutch setup going (rear derailleur, shifter, cog, chain)? How about the "best value" (price + performance)?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe


ZEE, ZEE, HG-61, SRAM 10sp chain.


----------



## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Got my new WolfTooth chainring today, I cannot wait to try it.


----------



## fastezzie (Nov 24, 2006)

Price/performance - I would go with Zee derailleur/shifter, XT cassette, KMC chain. Ebay or CRC/UK will likely have the lowest prices.


----------



## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

Whoa, cassettes these days are either $$$ or ###, makes me sorry I came out from under my rock LOL


----------



## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Here's my Wolftooth 1x10 setup...
32 tooth chainring
I installed a new XT shadow-plus derailleur (medium cage) and new Shimano chain to go with it.

Two rides and 50 miles of rocky, ledgy trails. Love it. No a hint of dropped chain, and with the clutch on the derailleur, there is no chain slap.

It took one full ride to get the derailleur setup to my liking... but now it's all good.

And, the Wolftooth ring seems really good so far. Hope it holds up well.


----------



## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

The WT will hold up, mine has through a season of ultra endurance racing. The RaceFace narrow-wide ring on my short-track carbon HT does the job, too, and it cost about $35 delivered from several online sellers and ebay. But I have no regrets with my WT 34T.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Fastskiguy said:


> Ah just hate answers like that. Would any of you guys happen to know the cheapest clutch setup going (rear derailleur, shifter, cog, chain)? How about the "best value" (price + performance)?
> 
> Thanks


Abrasive answer I know. Sorry  
But its my understanding from a couple credible posters on the interwebz here is that you can use your SRAM 9spd shifter and run a newer Shimano Dynasyt (sp?) 10spd der and set limits to only work the 9 cogs on your cassette. If that's true, then a a new 10spd clutch rr der ($$ depending on what level style model you pick) and chain is your easiest and economical way to go after a WT or RF narrow wide ring purchase which you would be doing anyway.

That's probably the route I'll go since still running 9 on my bikes. So be the guinny pig and report back on how the setup works!


----------



## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

sram 9 speed shifter works with a dynasys 10 speed derailleur for 9 speed shifting? <-stated in wonderment

I thought sram used that 1:1 ratio and shimano was 1:2 or something. <-stated with confusion

But yeah, that'd be a great way to do it if a guy had some 9 speed cassettes. Or...can you run a 9 speed sram shifter with an X-7 type 2 10 speed RD for 9 speed shifting? (i.e. is the only difference cable pull at the shifter?) <-stated with curiosity!

Joe


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Fastskiguy said:


> sram 9 speed shifter works with a dynasys 10 speed derailleur for 9 speed shifting? <-stated in wonderment
> 
> I thought sram used that 1:1 ratio and shimano was 1:2 or something. <-stated with confusion
> ->Right 1:1. Early and late model (pre dynasys) Shimano 2:1. Apparently the new(r) Shim clutch types are 1:1 I guess.
> ...


Sounds weird huh. I did just spent a few minutes trying to find the threads with the posts to me re this. No luck.


----------



## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

I can vouch for this. Before moving to 10speed I used an x9 9 speed shifter and a 10spd zee rd. No problems or issues.

The 10spd shimano rd has a 1:1.something pull ratio that's why the sram shifters work.


----------



## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

mikkosan said:


> I can vouch for this. Before moving to 10speed I used an x9 9 speed shifter and a 10spd zee rd. No problems or issues.
> 
> The 10spd shimano rd has a 1:1.something pull ratio that's why the sram shifters work.


Yeah the benefit is to get a clutch der/no front guide setup going even tho it's still a 9 spd. I have an XO gripshift that I will probably use. Then decide to bite the bullet and upgrade later to 10spd already having, cranks, ring, der and chain. Or just get one of the Actiontech 39t cassette cogs. I'm thinking I can get a 9spd gear range with that and a 28-30t ring without the need for the 42.


----------



## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Got a 34t Wolf Tooth on my Flash hardtail 1x10 and XX1 on a FS 29er, loving it. 

Can't wait to get a 44t 130BCD Wolf Tooth ring for my commuter! Will the chainring mate with 9 or 8 speed chains possibly? I run a friction shifter on the commuter to make use of retro parts.


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## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

chomxxo said:


> Got a 34t Wolf Tooth on my Flash hardtail 1x10 and XX1 on a FS 29er, loving it.
> 
> Can't wait to get a 44t 130BCD Wolf Tooth ring for my commuter! Will the chainring mate with 9 or 8 speed chains possibly? I run a friction shifter on the commuter to make use of retro parts.


I hear you about the 44t ring for communting...I'd like a 52, 53, or 54 for my time trial bike!


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Fastskiguy said:


> I hear you about the 44t ring for communting...I'd like a 52, 53, or 54 for my time trial bike!


That reminds me, Q-Rings and Osymetric are squandering a valuable opportunity. Both small companies, I know. They charge a huge premium for their non-rounded chainrings. Hear that, Wolf Tooth?

Also, according to Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, an 11-speed 10-32 cassette with just a 48t chainring up front has the same gain ratio top and bottom as 53-39x11-26. 1x11 on the road definitely needs to make an appearance.


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## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

chomxxo said:


> That reminds me, Q-Rings and Osymetric are squandering a valuable opportunity. Both small companies, I know. They charge a huge premium for their non-rounded chainrings. Hear that, Wolf Tooth?
> 
> Also, according to Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, an 11-speed 10-32 cassette with just a 48t chainring up front has the same gain ratio top and bottom as 53-39x11-26. 1x11 on the road definitely needs to make an appearance.


Could not agree more....clutch road derailleurs and the ring are all we need!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Fastskier
On the road 1x, there should be no need for the clutch (even our CX testing off road w/ out a clutch has been very positive). We carry road/CX rings today, but our biggest is 44t right now.

-Brendan


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## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

Well in that case....I'll just cross my fingers for time trial rings someday


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey Fastskier
> On the road 1x, there should be no need for the clutch (even our CX testing off road w/ out a clutch has been very positive). We carry road/CX rings today, but our biggest is 44t right now.
> 
> -Brendan


When will 44t be back in stock? I'm ready to buy. Selling out of your largest ring should indicate demand for more road 1x parts.


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## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> Those have been shipping for a few days now -- hope you received yours. Let us know how it works!
> Mike


Working great so far. The 26 up front with the 42 in the back with 650b wheels is giving me almost exactly the same effective low gear that I always had with 26 wheels and 22 up front and 34 in the rear. Feels good to be back!


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## skyak (Sep 21, 2008)

My XX1 with Wolf Tooth 26t spider.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Must have some steep bumps on your trails with the 26t.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Yeah that's chick gearing. Not that there's anything wrong with chicks


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## sandyeggo (Mar 6, 2011)

Thought I'd stop by and update my report: 300+ miles on mostly midwest XC (some rocks and roots) and not a single dropped chain (with SLX clutch rd).


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

@Wolftooth: This may have been asked before, but as of today are you/will you be selling SRAM BB30 direct mount rings? I'm looking for a good option for a PF30 frame I just picked up and would most likely order one.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

tiflow_21 said:


> @Wolftooth: This may have been asked before, but as of today are you/will you be selling SRAM BB30 direct mount rings? I'm looking for a good option for a PF30 frame I just picked up and would most likely order one.


what level Crankset? the bottom bracket has nothing to do with ring attachment


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

SandSpur said:


> what level Crankset? the bottom bracket has nothing to do with ring attachment


SRAM X0 or X9 crankset, hence SRAM BB30 direct mount. SRAM BB30 vs GXP BB cranksets need different direct mount spacing for chainline and frame/chainring clearance, there are a number of posts in this thread regarding this.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

you can get x7 cranksets that are bb30 that dont have the removable spiders like the x0 x9's.... hence me asking..

Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks | wolftoothcomponents.com


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

SandSpur said:


> you can get x7 cranksets that are bb30 that dont have the removable spiders like the x0 x9's.... hence me asking..
> 
> Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks | wolftoothcomponents.com


As highlighted in that link, that's a direct mount ring for GXP cranks, not BB30. I'm looking for a direct mount for SRAM BB30 cranks, not GXP.

After digging through this thread I found where wolftooth responded that the BB30 rings would be available starting in July/August. Any progress on that? I don't see the BB30 rings on their site yet.


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## Bail_Monkey (May 8, 2007)

I wonder if it's possible to produce a 32t ring for XX1 with the teeth offset to the outside so it will not hit the chainstay...? I'd like to make a 1x9 for XX1, but it seems as if this crankset can only be setup as a 2x9/10. (I don't want to run 30t or less on the crankset)


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

After letting my 30T 104BCD ring collect dust for a while I finally got around to putting it on my JET9RDO. I'm only using a non-clutch XTR RD, but after a few rides I can tell there's no way this chain is coming off. No need to put my MRP 1x back on. Before I installed the MRP chainguide, the chain would roll off my Extralite OctaRamop 32T ring about 3 to 7 times a ride.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Bail_Monkey said:


> I wonder if it's possible to produce a 32t ring for XX1 with the teeth offset to the outside so it will not hit the chainstay...? I'd like to make a 1x9 for XX1, but it seems as if this crankset can only be setup as a 2x9/10. (I don't want to run 30t or less on the crankset)


Sorry not following. I thought the whole reason for the XX1 is that it is set to run 1x? Are you having a problem with a 32t with this setup hitting on a specific frame design, or are you talking XX/GXP cranksets?


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## Bail_Monkey (May 8, 2007)

JMac, maybe I should have dropped the 1 from the XX. It is Sram's carbon race crank, maybe it's just called XX, but it was originally setup for 2x10. The outer ring has a large BCD, so I'm unable to place a 32t on it as the outer diameter is too small and the bolt holes will be very close or on the teeth. So a bash guard can be placed on the outside and the chainring on the inside. The largest ring for the inside is a 28t before you start to getting really close to the frames chainstay.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey TriFlow,
Sometime later this fall. Maybe November.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

They say "out of stock" but that is just because our webstore doesn't have the option to say "haven't finished them yet" =)

Yes, we are hearing more about road gearing and are considering some larger rings.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Got it. That makes sense. Those are nice cranks. Maybe you can sell and offset getting a XX1 or a direct mount XO/X9.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey TriFlow,
> Sometime later this fall. Maybe November.


Thanks for the response. Will this be the same offset as the XX1 BB30 crankset's rings? XX1's chainring offset limits me to a 32t ring on a new build so I'm looking for options that would allow a 34t.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Our rings have a 50mm chainline vs the 49 that xx1 uses, but this small of a difference won't allow you to go any bigger if you are already struggling w/ frame clearance.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> Our rings have a 50mm chainline vs the 49 that xx1 uses, but this small of a difference won't allow you to go any bigger if you are already struggling w/ frame clearance.


Good to know, thanks for the info!


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## DOCRIGID (Sep 16, 2009)

32 WT gxp on 170mm, xo type2 short cage, 11-36. 
offroad test this weekend!


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## shredjekyll (Jun 3, 2012)

DOCRIGID said:


> 32 WT gxp on 170mm, xo type2 short cage, 11-36.
> offroad test this weekend!


Will be shocked if you ever drop that chain again. I ride a slayer with a very, very, very similar suspension setup and the same drivetrain as you except different cranks and I have never even come close to dropping a chain. I have expected the chain to drop hundreds of times but it never has


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## FinRoller (Jun 21, 2012)

I had a 2012 remedy 7 with a double in front with a blackspire stinger and a bashring. It was a a pretty good combo but now and then the front did not drop to the granny. This frustrated me to the point that I removed the granny ring and the derailleur. The stinger i left on hoping it would help the chain staying on. First ride on my local trail i dropped my chain 8 times (28km distance) and right after I arrived home I ordered the 30 tooth ring. The trail has a lot of rocks and roots that caused the chain to fly of the ring. The delivery was fast and I received the ring here in Finland quite soon. Slapped it on and removed the stinger but left the bash on. Again went for the same trail for comparison and results were great! zero dropped chains! And I have the SLX rear without any clutch so I was very satisfied of the rings performance. Next upgrade will be a Zee with a clutch but I was happy that the chain stayed on even without it!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

These working Ok on XX1 cranks used as 10spd? I was thinking of putting on a direct mount 30t. 

Also anyone have the weight on them? I was on the website and didnt see it.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Chainrings for XTR M960 102 BCD*

Hey All,
I know some of you still run the Shimano XTR M960 crankset. Well, we now have wide/narrow rings for that crankset for sale in size 32 and 34t!

Come and get em: 102 BCD Chainrings for XTR M960 | wolftoothcomponents.com


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## TJ-87 (Dec 7, 2012)

I have noticed a few, but didn't read through the full 16 pgs, sorry. How many people have had success with one of the GXP DM rings (32T) WITHOUT running a clutch type RD? I'm currently running full x9 2x10 (non clutch) and want to make the change to 1x 10 soon. If I need to buy a type 2 RD I will as they are only ~$100, buy I would rather save the coin and put it towards a 650B conversion on my Mojo HD. The trails I ride are generally quite smooth, but there Ida's the odd decent that is a little rough.

Thanks,
TJ.


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## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

TJ-87: I'm running the 28T GXP direct mount ring with a non-clutch RD and I have yet to lose the chain. Works great!


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## TJ-87 (Dec 7, 2012)

golden boy said:


> TJ-87: I'm running the 28T GXP direct mount ring with a non-clutch RD and I have yet to lose the chain. Works great!


Good to hear

What length cage are you running and what model Rear D?


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## golden boy (Oct 29, 2008)

I'm running a long cage X0 rear derailleur. No problems, even with the long cage. It's what I had on hand, formerly part of a 3x10 setup.


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## IstongKowldPaRin (Apr 6, 2009)

testing out mine tomorrow. very quiet testing around the block.


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## heyhey (Oct 27, 2011)

Fist time poster, long time lurker. here is my situation. Im in the process of building up a tallboy. going with a 1x10. Im trying to decide what crankset to get with this chainring. I would like to go as light as possible, but cost is a great factor. does anyone know the weight of a x9 crankset vs a x0 or a xx1 (all without stock chainrings). I can only find weights of the cranksets with stock rings. I can save quite a lot by buying a slightly used x9 and replacing it with a 32 direct mount. if the difference in "bare" cranks is only 30-50 grams id like to save around $100 or more.

did some more digging and found my answer if anyone else is in the same boat:
http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/x9-crank-arms-gxp-bb-weight-816036.html


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenies/x9-crank-weight-those-want-know-864541.html

just the arms with no BB

IIRC the x0 carbon arms are 80g lighter then the x9


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## vizsladog (Mar 15, 2009)

Now i have had mine for months and hundreds of miles and not one drop. Non clutch rd x9 midcage.


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

*sign me up...*


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Dear Wolf Tooth,
Please mill a 42t cog. 
Thank you,
Everyone Who Can't Afford XX1


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

^ I agree! It'd be handy if say 36T and 39T cassette cogs were available too, and if they were all offset inward enough that they'd definitely fit on a normal 8/9/10 speed freehub body.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Looking around in the "Budget XX1" thread, there are people who have gotten ahold of some hard to find, relatively inexpensive 42t cogs, and removed one of their higher gears (sometimes swapping out their 15 and 17 in favor of a 16) to make room. 

WT could get ahead of the game and, with its newfound name recognition, clean up before SRAM, Raceface, and others get in, just like their chainrings. This would also promote the sale and use of their chainrings to people who don't currently want to go 1x10 for fear of losing the low gear. 

Do it, WT! 


formerly scvkurt03


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

^^ hell yeah! As a satisfied WT user, I would glady purchase a 42T cog should they manufacture them. Do it!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Furthermore, they would only need two versions - SRAM compatible and Shimano compatible.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks for the input on the cassette. We have talked about it and would need to pick a certain cassette type to start. That said, I would be very surprised if Shimano makes us wait too much longer for a wide range and hopefully more affordable cassette!

Finally, the traditional derailleurs don't work above 40t (we were told, but we haven't tried/confirmed this), so the 42t would be a no go.

In summary, don't expect any cassette mod's from us in the next couple months, but if Shimano doesn't do anything soon, we will have to consider it for Spring here in the US.

-Brendan


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## TCW (Mar 13, 2006)

Two of us just went 1 x 10 on our bikes; my wife's Tallboy will be 1 x 10 tomorrow if the WT ring gets here. All our other riding friends like the idea but want a 40 or 42 cog. The General Lee, Action Tec Ti 39 or German Mirfe cog are the only good options right now. I'm tempted to go ahead and order a General Lee as a couple climbs are owning my butt.


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## satanas (Feb 12, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> Finally, the traditional derailleurs don't work above 40t (we were told, but we haven't tried/confirmed this), so the 42t would be a no go.
> 
> In summary, don't expect any cassette mod's from us in the next couple months, but if Shimano doesn't do anything soon, we will have to consider it for Spring here in the US.


People using the GL adapter or Mirfe 42T cogs are using standard RDs, so it must work...

Since Shimano didn't announce anything at Eurobike or Interbike, that means any new product announcement is unlikely to be before at least March or April next year, and IMHO it's likely they'll wait until closer to the August/September shows in any case. If they behave as per normal, next year should see a new XTR group - and maybe XT & SLX too as DynaSys has been around for a few years now and all came out together. There'll probably be quite a bit of new stuff, and this could be anything, but it's unlikely to be available until after next Northern summer. Who knows, Shimano may surprise us and switch to 11 speeds or more; the 11 speed road stuff is already on its second year.

Note also that while new road bits have sometimes become available from August onwards, this hasn't happened as much with MTB stuff.

If I was WolfTooth, I'd assume Shimano will have nothing much before late 2014 or 2015, and base the manufacturing decision on sales projections for 2014 and/or afterwards. If take up is anything like it appears to have been with the chainrings I cannot see how doing so would lose money - I'd start planning now!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

satanas said:


> People using the GL adapter or Mirfe 42T cogs are using standard RDs, so it must work...


The biggest mod I've seen people mention is a longer than stock B screw, which can be had at any hardware store. It definitely works...

Damn I wish I was a machinist.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Heck even Mirfe himself uses a short cage zee on his 42T just with a longer b screw.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> Thanks for the input on the cassette. We have talked about it and would need to pick a certain cassette type to start. That said, I would be very surprised if Shimano makes us wait too much longer for a wide range and hopefully more affordable cassette!
> 
> Finally, the traditional derailleurs don't work above 40t (we were told, but we haven't tried/confirmed this), so the 42t would be a no go.
> 
> ...


I've run an Action Tec 39t and the eBayer "mtbtools" 41t Cog both mixed with parts of a 10spd XT 11-36t cassette, all shifted using a 10spd XT med caged GS Shadow + derailluer without any shifting issues.

Can you please consider doing a conversion of the top 3 cogs of a XT 10spd 11-36t cassette (affordableto everyone) focusing on a 40 or 42t cog as first gear.

Sooner rather than latter, thanks!


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

This is all very interesting. Im also a 1x10 user and would love to have a 40 or 42 toothed cog but never thought you could use it with the existing derailleur until the posts in this thread indicating all thats needed is the longer B screw. If a 40t was available id jump on it.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

kragu said:


> The biggest mod I've seen people mention is a longer than stock B screw, which can be had at any hardware store. It definitely works...


If you remove the B-screw and then screw it into minimum insertion level from the opposite direction, with the head facing the plate, you can get extra extension.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

Any word on the SRAM direct mount BB30 chainrings?

Currently I haven't been able to find ANY sram direct mount narrow wide rings that are designed around the sram BB30 crankset. 

This is a HUGE market with all the BB30 frames out there, please please please wolftooth release something! I'm trying to wrap up a BB30 build and really don't want to go the GXP adapter route.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

A few in here are running gpx direct on bb30 frams with no problems. I will be doing the same on my bb30 cannondale.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

machine4321 said:


> A few in here are running gpx direct on bb30 frams with no problems. I will be doing the same on my bb30 cannondale.


yea, i tried to tell him that a few pages back but he wasnt too receptive to that.. http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...components-thread-850712-15.html#post10671542


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Just read that Rotor announced its QX1 asymmetric rings.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

machine4321 said:


> A few in here are running gpx direct on bb30 frams with no problems. I will be doing the same on my bb30 cannondale.


machine, thanks, the problem with that is the less than ideal chainline. I'm building an air9 rdo, using the current direct mount GXP ring on a BB30 crank would likely cause the chainring to contact the frame. No go. The other problem with a further inboard chainline is the fact that the chainring is more aligned with the lower end of the cassette. Since the frame I have is limited to a 32t chainring (49-50mm chainline) will likely mean I'll be using the high end of the cassette more than the low end... not good with an inboard chainline. I plan to use the bike for racing, so a decent chainline is important.



SandSpur said:


> yea, i tried to tell him that a few pages back but he wasnt too receptive to that.. http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...components-thread-850712-15.html#post10671542


Sandspur... I thought we covered this. I completely understand that people are running GXP rings on BB30 cranks, the interface is the same. The problem is the less than ideal chainline, which is an even bigger problem for frames that already have chainring/chainstay clearance issues.


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

FYI guys, we will have BB30 specific DM rings in 6-8 weeks =)


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

tiflow_21 said:


> machine, thanks, the problem with that is the less than ideal chainline. I'm building an air9 rdo, using the current direct mount GXP ring on a BB30 crank would likely cause the chainring to contact the frame. No go. The other problem with a further inboard chainline is the fact that the chainring is more aligned with the lower end of the cassette. Since the frame I have is limited to a 32t chainring (49-50mm chainline) will likely mean I'll be using the high end of the cassette more than the low end... not good with an inboard chainline. I plan to use the bike for racing, so a decent chainline is important.
> 
> Sandspur... I thought we covered this. I completely understand that people are running GXP rings on BB30 cranks, the interface is the same. The problem is the less than ideal chainline, which is an even bigger problem for frames that already have chainring/chainstay clearance issues.


I use the "GXP" 34t ring, also Race, and have a 51mm chainline. I simply used different spacers than what came with the crankset.



WolfTooth said:


> FYI guys, we will have BB30 specific DM rings in 6-8 weeks =)


Will they have any offset? zero offset?


----------



## Jumpcaser (Apr 7, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> FYI guys, we will have BB30 specific DM rings in 6-8 weeks =)


Just what I need so good to know!


----------



## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

They will have ~5mm less dish than the GXP. 
-Brendan


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> They will have ~5mm less dish than the GXP.
> -Brendan


good deal, that sounds like it will work perfect. Cause I needed exactly 5mm in spacers to space the "GXP" ring correctly.


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## BruceBrown (Jan 16, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> They will have ~5mm less dish than the GXP.
> -Brendan


And what happened to the plans of a Middleburn solution (outside of those snowflakes you did)?


----------



## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> FYI guys, we will have BB30 specific DM rings in 6-8 weeks =)


Thank you! Looking forward to it.


----------



## euro-trash (Feb 9, 2008)

Randan, Did you use the 2x chainring bolts for the 985? I've got the same setup on order. it does look really sharp!


----------



## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Had my first chain drop yesterday. 4 months, 380 miles, countless runs down super chunky terrain. Strangely, the chain dropped outward while on the big rear cog. It happened on a smooth transition from a steep down to a steep up. The teeth are a bit worn...wondering if I'm going to see this more often.


----------



## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Update on mine, Running the 30 tooth 104 BCD ring with a Sram clutch Derailleur on a 2013 specialized Camber comp29. I have 425 miles on the ring so far and not one dropped chain yet and i ride a lot of rocky down hills. I do not run a Bash guard and was worried about bending the ring, But i have been hammering the heck out of it on log overs, I have hit hard a couple times and thought great i bent the ring but it is still straight as an arrow. Just wanted to say thanks for the great product,quality and customer service.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey @BruceBrown,
Middleburns are right behind the BB30s (mid to late Dec at this point)...and the BB30 have been bumped up to more like 4 weeks out.

-Brendan


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

At long last, we now provide no compromise made in the USA alloy single ring bolts with hex front and back (NO spanner flat head back!!). These are some of the finest single ring bolts you will find:
Chainring Bolt Sets | wolftoothcomponents.com







Oh, and the bottle opener rotor truing tools are sweet.
Bottle Opener With Rotor Truing Slot | wolftoothcomponents.com


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

For those with Lightning or S works cranks, we now have direct mount rings for you!







S-Works / Lightning Chainrings | wolftoothcomponents.com


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

No 30T for the S-works rings? I'm currently running your 30T 104BCD ring on my S-works cranks.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@llamma,
We will follow with 30t and 36t depending on how the 32 and 34 sell. 

-Brendan


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Craving one of those direct mount rings. Great stuff you guys. Awaiting the sram direct mount in a 24t please! I gotta get back to a 1x10.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

geraldooka said:


> Craving one of those direct mount rings. Great stuff you guys. Awaiting the sram direct mount in a 24t please! I gotta get back to a 1x10.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


24t? wow thats small!! you must ride the same way my dad walked to school... uphill both ways....


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

I don't know many folks who pedal downhill around here... myself included! The little ring is for the ups! I'm cool with not being the fastest on the flats there aren't many of those on Vancouver Island. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

After riding all summer with no issues, I dropped my chain last week 

Conditions were wet with thick northeastern mud coating my chain, chainring and cassette. Lost my front wheel in the muck and front end drifted into a tree with bike laid over drive side up. Chain fell to inside. Crash in the mud the sort of extreme condition it took to derail. 

Now I see why racers continue to use guides as insurance. Not me. I'll risk minor inconvenience. I ride for fun, not time.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

SandSpur said:


> 24t? wow thats small!! you must ride the same way my dad walked to school... uphill both ways....


Some of us ARE your dad.

A 24T ring on a 1X10 29'er is understandable, even if extreme. Not necessary on 1X11, with 42T cog for low gear, even on 29'er. 28 or 30T would suffice for me, maybe 32T. Nothing larger necessary for high gear and could stall the low.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

dwt said:


> Some of us ARE your dad.
> 
> A 24T ring on a 1X10 29'er is understandable, even if extreme. Not necessary on 1X11, with 42T cog for low gear, even on 29'er. 28 or 30T would suffice for me, maybe 32T. Nothing larger necessary for high gear and could stall the low.


Yes! I am fast approaching the "Dad" age.

What I wouldn't do for a 24t! on my 1x10.

I'm using the GXP 26t on my SRAM X9 BB30 and shifting is "OK". Some gears not shifting all that well. Maybe the reduced dish would help??


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## GT5050 (Jan 23, 2008)

Quick question - has anyone done this 1x setup on 2013 Shimano Dyna-sys cranks? I have 2013 SLX. On these the chainline is supposedly further out than SRAM or even shimano 3x cranks (middle ring compared). When I originally did a 1x with guide, had to space guide out quite a bit. 

Curious how the WT rings work with this chainline. Bought a shadow+ rd, hope I don't need a new crankset.


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## Cayenne_Pepa (Dec 18, 2007)

Does Wolf Tooth make a SRAM XX(XG-1099) 36t replacement cog, since SRAM decided it was not PROFITABLE to make them replaceable?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Zachariah said:


> Does Wolf Tooth make a SRAM XX(XG-1099) 36t replacement cog, since SRAM decided it was not PROFITABLE to make them replaceable?


Leonardi racing do if Wolftooth cannot help.


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## ~MAX-Moab~ (Nov 22, 2013)

Hi, I was wondering what a good setup would be for a Long travel 29er. The bike is a 2012 Transition Bandit with a 2x10 setup. The specs are as follows: 
Cranks:  SRAM S1400 GXP 10S 175 
Chainrings: 24-38
Bottom Bracket: 73mm shell x 51mm chainline

Would a direct mount chainring be best, or not direct mount? Would it need any special spacers for a direct mount? Is this something anybody can install, or is it something a bikeshop should do? Sorry for all the questions, one more: What size chainring would be best. Here in Moab, there are some seriously steep grades. would a 28T chainring offer enough hard gears, or would you just be spinning out? thanks for the information, and I look forward to hopefully purchasing one of your wolftooth chainrings!


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Those look quite similar to the X9, but not sure if they are direct mount.

I am new to doing my own wrenching and I had no issues doing it myself. I just used the existing spacer on my X9. I used the GXP direct mount on my BB30 crank and the shifting is not great, but it works. My guess is it would be better with the BB30 direct mount ring.

I live in Vermont and I use 26t, but I'm weak. I'd think you'd be fine with the 28t. My trails here just don't have that much long runs up or down where I spin out. Occasionally I have a few mile ride to the trail head and then I do spin out, but small price to pay to have that bail out gear.

I dropped just under a pound getting rid of the big ring, front der, shifter and cable....rides great! Hard to believe no one thought of this years (decades) ago.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Max-Lesoine-Moab said:


> Hi, I was wondering what a good setup would be for a Long travel 29er. The bike is a 2012 Transition Bandit with a 2x10 setup. The specs are as follows:
> Cranks: SRAM S1400 GXP 10S 175
> Chainrings: 24-38
> Bottom Bracket: 73mm shell x 51mm chainline
> ...


Sram s1400 will take the Wolf Tooth direct mount ring.
If you are not sure about the right ring size, try the highest and lowest combinations of certain rings on your current double.
Let's say you want to try how a 30T would work for you.
30T with 36cog = 24T with 28cog (which is the 3rd largest cog on your cassette)
You will basically loose 2 easiest gear options with a 30T...
30T with 11cog = 38T with 13/15cog (which would be right in between your second and third smallest cogs)
You should try to ride in these gear combinantions and see if it is ok with you.
Swapping the rings is easy, you do not need any special tools.

Calculator here: www.sheldonbrown.com/gears


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Wolftooth also has a set of gear charts on their website:

Gear Charts | wolftoothcomponents.com

29er:








26er:


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

This would surely put the prices down if they do. Hopefully something is in the works.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Just got my M960 32T narrow-wide ring...it's a work of art! Glad that someone is making these for this crankset.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

How are these holding up wear wise? There was one pist pages back that said he had a few drops after some wear.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

machine4321 said:


> How are these holding up wear wise? There was one pist pages back that said he had a few drops after some wear.


Might have been me. About 100 miles and some really rough terrain later, I haven't had another drop. That's one drop in about 400 miles.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks. Glad to hear!


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

I have 3x slx crankset I'm looking to put a wolftooth on.... Anything special I need to know?


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## luckyslug (Oct 22, 2013)

I'm running a 30t 104BCD on a 2x XT with a 11-36 cassette. The chainline isn't good enough, hard to shift to the 36. I did put the BB spacer on the non drive side (turner flux, recommended way). Can I put 2mm spacers on the 30t or the "integrated spacers/spreaders" on the ring will interfere ?


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Do you do a chainring or plan to do one to fit the latest RaceFace Next SL cranks, the ones with the cinch interface. I know RF do one but I refer the tooth profile you use.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All, 
Instead of a big Cyber Monday push we are going to do a Black Friday sale. Look for a series of limited use coupons tomorrow morning around 8am US Central Standard Time! I will post them here, Facebook and Twitter=)


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Just received my 26t gxp. Fantastic quality guys, good work. I will order again.

Is it still recommended to compress the rear suspension completely and then add the 4 links?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> Instead of a big Cyber Monday push we are going to do a Black Friday sale. Look for a series of limited use coupons tomorrow morning around 8am US Central Standard Time! I will post them here, Facebook and Twitter=)


Im glad to hear! Any bb30 yet? If not I know the gxp will work on my cannondale.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Happy Black Friday from the WTC team!
Discount Rules: Each customer can ONLY use 1 of the free or 35% (wholesale) discount codes. Sponsored WTC athletes cannot use these codes. The 15% off code is open all day, so order away!! These are first come first serve and WTC reserves the right to cancel any order where the rules are broken.

Coupon Codes (to be used at checkout on wolftoothcycling.com):
3 free rings: BFridayFreeRing2013
3 Free sets of bolts: BFridayFreeBolts2013
5 Free bottle openers: BFridayFreeBottleOpeners2013
10 rings at 35% off: BFridayWholesaleRing2013
15% off for the rest of the day for everything: BlackFridayDiscount2013


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

Snagged a S Works ring at 35% off, thanks! Missed out as one of the three lucky FREE rings.


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## Seven1three (Sep 1, 2013)

Stoked on the 35% off ring. Thanks for the hook-up!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

dam, missed the 35% happy to have finally ordered one!


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Same here. I was out riding when I got this email. Bummer


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Rick Draper said:


> Do you do a chainring or plan to do one to fit the latest RaceFace Next SL cranks, the ones with the cinch interface. I know RF do one but I refer the tooth profile you use.


Any chance?


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## Anthem1 (Feb 9, 2008)

Thought I would share my results, 36T gxp direct mount with a standard non type 2 X.0. shorty on a Anthem X 29er. 2 rides with no dropped chains, First ride included lots of flowy technical rollercoaster type terrain, second ride was flat twisty rooty terrain that I rode at speed, a little noise but chain is hanging tough. Very impressive Mr. Wolf.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
Just catching up on a few questions:
@ Rick Draper on Next SL - if they become more popular yes. For now if you want to run a WTC ring just get the 3x spider or 2x spider (3x middle ring position will give you the best chainline on a std mtbk)

@machine on BB30 - they are on the way mid December. Do note that the GXP rings fit BB30 crankset that have 16mm spacers on the drive side. Those that have the 10mm spacer (many Big OEM) need a BB30 ring.

@luckyslug - the 30t is already 2mm in from where your bigger ring mounted on the 2x system. This puts it approximately between the 2 rings of a 2x so the chainline should be decent in the 36t. If you do want to space it over more with spacer, be sure to buy some of our 10mm bolts to assure enough threads are engaged (there won't be with your standard bolts).

On Snowflake rings (because you all were wondering =) - we have some coming out in mid-late December...and not just for Middleburn.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Dam, already ordered the gxp on friday. But there is another user with the same bike and crank as me and his chainline looked pretty good. 

Thanks


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

My new 26t GXP is working like a charm. So happy to be back on a 1x10. Here it is on my properly dirty Heckler...










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

You must have some serious climbs in your area. I like my WT direct mount on my TRc.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Or he's old and weak like me...same set up on my RDO.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

If moto riders and not roadies got a hold of the mtnbike thing way back we would of arrived at the 1x setup a lot earlier.....or simply not had the over geared, unreliable 3x system.

1x (just like SS) is more of a mindset for the thinking rider, gearing for your bike, your terrain and your ability......in someway just what moto riders (and car racers) with limited gears have done since time and memorial.

I have a 26t x X01 and it gives me a spread of gears on my 29r in the old palance equivalent to a 1st gear of 22x36 and an 11th gear of 32x12.....

In top gear I'd be pedalling at 20mph/32kmh and at that speed on an open road wind resistance would slow me down before I ran out of gear/cadence/fitness.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

My experience with Wolf Tooth rings (I also have XX1 on my Jet 9 carbon race bike): I have a 44t 130BCD on a touring-style commuter which I use on 50-mile rides to and from the office. Rear gearing is lowly Sora 11-32 8-speed; this bike is built for reliability. I have a 34t 104BCD on a hardtail, 1x10, X7 non-clutch as well. Although I dropped the chain on both setups for the first time in the past week, this was surprising since I'd never dropped the chain before that. I've never dropped the chain on my XX1 bike either, although I'm concerned that the clutch is defective on the rear derailleur (it's making a loud popping noise).


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Gripo agreed. I'm not sure I understand your gearing figures though. The Heckler came with a 3x10 (odd for this type of bike), the granny being a 24t. In this case I lost my lowest gear and several of my highest. This work fine for me because our trails are very steep here. We just don't have horizontal xc trails. At least I haven't found any on the island yet 

Ooops... never mind I get that the xo1 has the 42 in the rear. Still on a 29er vs a 26 its more like running a 24x36.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## J.R.A. (Nov 21, 2012)

Pulled the trigger on a 30t DM Sram this morning after reading entire thread and seeing all the postive reviews people have posted. Will be put on a Blur LTc with a X9 non clutch rd and a 11-36 cassette with a new Whippermann black chain. Saw the article over on Bike about the new OneUp 42 thooth rear cog and have one coming to me mid-january. OneUp looks like they may have something going and for $85 figured Id give it try on my buget XX1. Will post some pics when parts arive.


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## jabrabu (Aug 2, 2010)

Gripo said:


> If moto riders and not roadies got a hold of the mtnbike thing way back we would of arrived at the 1x setup a lot earlier.....or simply not had the over geared, unreliable 3x system.
> 
> 1x (just like SS) is more of a mindset for the thinking rider, gearing for your bike, your terrain and your ability......in someway just what moto riders (and car racers) with limited gears have done since time and memorial.
> 
> ...


I can see the viability of all of them -- 1x, 2x, and 3x, and each has its benefits.

I rode 3x8 for decades, and I never felt that it was unreliable or shifted poorly (XTR derailleurs with Grip Shifts). I used to ride my bike on the road to get to the trails, and the only time I used the big ring was when I was riding on the road. When I moved and stopped riding to the trails I no longer needed the big ring so I replaced it with a bash ring, so I essentially switched to 2x at that point.

I currently have 2x10 (XT) on one bike, 1x11 (XX1) on another bike, and another one gets switched between 1x10 and SS, depending on the season. The 2x10 has 22/33/bash chainrings, and I ride in the 33t about 90% of the time, so it's ridden much like a 1x, except I have a bailout granny gear when I need it. It's nice to be able to quickly drop down to a much easier gear sometimes.

On the 1x11, I use a 30t Wolftooth chainring. The only time I use the 10t cog is on pavement or a downhill fire road, so I could probably go even smaller and still not wish for a higher gear. It doesn't provide quite as low a granny as my 2x10 drivetrain, but there has only been one time when I felt I really wanted a lower gear. If I can't climb it in a 30x42 gear, then I'd probably be walking anyway. There are times, though, like when I get tired, that it's nicer to sit and spin an easier gear instead of grinding up in a harder gear. I don't like SRAM triggers, so I switched to the XX1 twist shifter and like it a lot better. Since I can't just drop to a granny ring like on my 2x10, the twist shifter allows me to shift to easier gears quickly.

On my 1x10 I also use a 30t Wolftooth ring. (I used to use a 30t MRP Bling Ring with chain guide.) It obviously doesn't provide as low a gear as the 1x11, but it's on my hardtail which encourages more out-of-saddle mashing anyway, and I don't choose this bike for long rides in steep technical terrain.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

I have 4 WT rings, and one reason I consider RaceFace is my new S Works crank only goes to 32T with WT, and even with XX1 there are times a 28 or 30T would be nice (yes, I'm a lightweight climbing machine who spends time on a SS so the HTFU rule does not apply, ha) which RaceFace has available on their Next SL1x.

For endurance racing the 32T from WT and a 10-42 is pretty dang low, but before I went XX1, a 30T with 11-36 was not quite low enough for the longer high elevation NUE events with me at the pedals. A 2x10 (38/26 with 11-36) was a big help. And some of our faster courses benefit from a 38 big ring and 11 cog.

No one ever said there was one perfect ring or gearing combo.


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

I also really want a WT ring for my S-works cranks, but I can't justify going back to 32T. I just did a race in WNC with their 30T 104BCD ring and 11-36 cassette, and that wasn't nearly enough gears. I can grind with the best of them, but my knee was swollen after the race.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

And you're running a 11-36 (sorry, didn't read entire thread if you mentioned 1x11 use now)?



llamma said:


> I also really want a WT ring for my S-works cranks, but I can't justify going back to 32T. I just did a race in WNC with their 30T 104BCD ring and 11-36 cassette, and that wasn't nearly enough gears. I can grind with the best of them, but my knee was swollen after the race.


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

westin said:


> And you're running a 11-36 (sorry, didn't read entire thread if you mentioned 1x11 use now)?


Yes, I'm currently running 1x10 with a WT 30T 104BCD ring and 11-36 cassette. I just meant that I love my current WT ring and would like to support them for going through the trouble of making a S-works ring, but I can't justify going back to a 32T ring if I plan on doing more rides in the mountains. It might be a moot point if I finish building up an AM bike with 2x10. It wouldn't be too painful to go back to 32T on the XC bike.


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

I hear ya. I run a 30T with 11-36 on a 29er HT, and I'm a bit out of shape being off-season and gained a few pounds. Could not imagine racing it at elevation for hours upon hours. Up to a few hours at non-crazy pace the 30/11-36 is perfect for my trails and ability. I would die with a 32T and 11-36 for endurance racing with a lot of climbing; riding it'd be fine for the 29er.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Awesome product!! Ordered Friday and had it in the mail box today (Ontario Canada). Got a call to go for a night ride, since we had an unseasonably warm day that melted all the snow. Got home from work and it was waiting for me. There was no way I could wait until we had warm weather again, so I had to be that guy that was late due to a last minute parts change lol.

Conditions could not have been much worse with a mix of snow lots of mud, piles of pine needles and a ton of rocks. Oddly enough the guy I was riding with had a regular single ring and took his chain keeper off due to an issue with it. Kind of worked out great for comparison sake. He lots his chain 4 times at total random times. I didn't lose mine once. It ran flawless, super quiet and I took a bunch of weight off the bike. 

Very happy at this point,

just for anyone wondering. 30t direct mount on a bb30 cannondale flashwith with x9 crank (10mm spacer I think) non clutch long cage x9 RD


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

This after a night of thawing out. Wife wasnt to happy about the floor.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

We should start mentioning the future wolftooth 42T cog for cassettes in here.....


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*42t Cog*

Yes, I meant to do tha!
For those that don't follow The Facebook:
GC = Giant Cog! Yes, this is a 42 tooth cog for 10 spd cassettes (remove the 17t and put this behind the 36t).
We had been working on this for a while when saw the 1Up release so we figured you all might like a heads up. Actually, some of the impetus to do it came from pushing on this forum=)
We will be testing the final prototypes in about 3 weeks and plan to be shipping in February. We won't do pre-orders, but we promise that they will be worth the wait as these will have the same quality finish and precision of the the other WTC products!

Price will be around $90.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Awesome. Any plans for a 40t? I imagine that something a tad smaller would haves fewer issue with derailleurs or am I mistaken?

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Subscribed.
Can't wait to see the GC! Maybe a 40T option also.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Yes, I meant to do tha!
> For those that don't follow The Facebook:
> GC = Giant Cog! Yes, this is a 42 tooth cog for 10 spd cassettes (remove the 17t and put this behind the 36t).
> We had been working on this for a while when saw the 1Up release so we figured you all might like a heads up. Actually, some of the impetus to do it came from pushing on this forum=)
> ...


Wow - cheaper and made in USA!

Wolftooth - I'll gladly accept a prototype for pointing that out... k,thx :rockon:


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

aosty said:


> Wow - cheaper and made in USA!
> 
> Wolftooth - I'll gladly accept a prototype for pointing that out... k,thx :rockon:


Do you even run gears?


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

blcman said:


> Subscribed.
> Can't wait to see the GC! Maybe a 40T option also.


I'd probly go with a 40T and bump up to a bigger front ring. Keep my low gears the way they are and get a bit more speed out of it.


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## scottie mac (Nov 3, 2011)

I'd LOVE a 40t. 

SM


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

JMac47 said:


> Do you even run gears?


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

A 43t option would one-up OneUp... just sayin'.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@all - 40t is not out of the question but we have to get this 42 rolling first.

@aosty - LOL...yes trying to avoid that pun with our announcement=)


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

I am awaiting the direct mount 32T to arrive, should be by this weekend, but now a big snow storm is possible for Sunday morning. It may be a little bit before I get to ride the new 1x10 setup, but skiing is HERE! Looking forward to a 40t cog in the future.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> @all - 40t is not out of the question but we have to get this 42 rolling first.
> 
> @aosty - LOL...yes trying to avoid that pun with our announcement=)


You could climb flat walls with a 26t DM ring and a 42t GC.


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## ciocc (Dec 17, 2005)

J.R.A. said:


> Pulled the trigger on a 30t DM Sram this morning after reading entire thread and seeing all the postive reviews people have posted. Will be put on a Blur LTc with a X9 non clutch rd and a 11-36 cassette with a new Whippermann black chain. Saw the article over on Bike about the new OneUp 42 thooth rear cog and have one coming to me mid-january. OneUp looks like they may have something going and for $85 figured Id give it try on my buget XX1. Will post some pics when parts arive.


Please tell us how it works out for you. I too ordered the new OneUp 42T and a DM SRAM but it's a 28T. Already put the 28T on my BLT2 with a X9 non-clutch mid cage RD and a 11-36 XT cassette with KMC 10 speed chain. Looking forward to the weekend to have a real test on this setup. To be honest, I may cancel the 1Up and get the WT because of the red color and to match with my 28T WT 

I also have a XT clutch mid cage RD if the X9 non-clutch doesn't work well, or just order something like this:

Amazon.com: N-Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide/Watcher: Sports & Outdoors

Does anyone have any experience with the N-Gear Jump Stop?


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

If you guys could make a 16t to replace the 15t with, I'd be even happier than I am now


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

42T cassette Cog looks sweet.. you guys will be getting some of my money soon enough!


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Very nice, I will definitely be picking up one of these. I wouldn't mind a 40t either.


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## 92gli (Sep 28, 2006)

jammin said:


> Very nice, I will definitely be picking up one of these. I wouldn't mind a 40t either.


Another vote for 40t cassette cog


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## scrublover (Dec 30, 2003)

As well, a 40t would be my preference.


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## Jumpcaser (Apr 7, 2012)

Looking forward to the 42t. Thanks WT for jumping in on this


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## westin (Nov 9, 2005)

That jump from 15T to 19T is gonna be a big one.


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## car_nut (Apr 5, 2010)

westin said:


> That jump from 15T to 19T is gonna be a big one.





car_nut said:


> If you guys could make a 16t to replace the 15t with, I'd be even happier than I am now


:thumbsup:


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## TCW (Mar 13, 2006)

My LBS let me dig through their boxes of old cassettes where I promptly found numerous 16-tooth cogs for road cassettes. Those folks concerned about the big jump should consider replacing their 15 and 17 cog with an appropriate 16 to balance the jumps.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Xxx


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

TCW said:


> My LBS let me dig through their boxes of old cassettes where I promptly found numerous 16-tooth cogs for road cassettes. Those folks concerned about the big jump should consider replacing their 15 and 17 cog with an appropriate 16 to balance the jumps.


Mine too. Not sure about 7 or 8 speed cassette cogs, but a 16t from a 9 speed cog will work as well. It's the spacers that are different.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

I've been through the whole changing in a GC on a stock cassette earlier this year.....here's the low down.

Lot of info that's sure to get you a head start......swapping out a 17/15t will make for a frustrating ride.

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?258486-Shimano-WR-11-41t-10Spd-Cassette









This is my final cassette below consisting of...

1st gear was 41t from ebay
2nd gear 36t SLX 9spd
3rd gear 30t LX 9spd
4th-10th gear 24/21/19/17/15/13/11 from stock 11-36 XT 10spd cassette.


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

Any more holiday deals from WolfTooth? Buy a direct mount ring, get a bash ring for free??


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

I'm running the mbtool 41T with a Sram Type 2 derail. for a couple of weeks now with no problems. Actuall shifts pretty quickly.
I had one of his 36T rings to make my 9sp. cassette larger. It had a little delay in shifting but worked.
The only downside with these rings are they are heavy being made out of stainless steel. 
Also you might have to watch the gouching that might occur with softer free hubs.
I would like to have a lighter weight option that WT might make or OneUp makes!:thumbsup:


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## nickzveg (Apr 3, 2011)

One more vote for a 40t


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Diggin the 40t love boys, yes!

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

TCW said:


> I promptly found numerous 16-tooth cogs for road cassettes. Those folks concerned about the big jump should consider replacing their 15 and 17 cog with an appropriate 16 to balance the jumps.


I've seen others recommend this route too.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

aosty said:


>


Oh, right, you have them on your FatBike.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Gripo said:


> I've been through the whole changing in a GC on a stock cassette earlier this year.....here's the low down.
> 
> This is my final cassette below consisting of...
> 
> ...


Gripo, any experience with modifying an 11/34 XTR 9spd cassette? Thinking on a 38t(mtbtools) or 39t (Actiontec) add on to get a little more climbing range on my 1x setup. Don't think I need more than that. Would be going on an XT hub. Are there any lighter versions other than st steel that may work better on the non-steel hubs?

And would these be able to swap in a 16t cog from a road cassette as mentioned here in another post?

Your thoughts on both greatly appreciated.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

JMac47 said:


> Gripo, any experience with modifying an 11/34 XTR 9spd cassette? Thinking on a 38t(mtbtools) or 39t (Actiontec) add on to get a little more climbing range on my 1x setup. Don't think I need more than that. Would be going on an XT hub. Are there any lighter versions other than st steel that may work better on the non-steel hubs?
> 
> And would these be able to swap in a 16t cog from a road cassette as mentioned here in another post?
> 
> Your thoughts on both greatly appreciated.


Ditch the 9spd 11-34 XTR cassette.....

If running 9spd the best way to do that is with Shimanos XTR 11-32t cassette ie. (11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32).

Simply remove the 11t cog + lockring and replace with a 12t lockring, put the 39t ATGC (70g) behind the 32t....I can't remember if a spacer was required between the 32/39 but it was that simple.
(12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-39)

Of course B screw had to be adjusted.

Marking of the freehub body from any non-spidered cog is inevitable, but that's the price you pay, my alloy Hope freehubs have remained usable despite these GC and cassette mods I've done.


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

Gripo said:


> Ditch the 9spd 11-34 XTR cassette.....
> 
> If running 9spd the best way to do that is with Shimanos XTR 11-32t cassette ie. (11-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32).
> 
> ...


My thinking was a smaller jump up to the 39 would be better, no?

I may have an XT 11/32 also. Are the 34 and 32 assemblies different? I also have an LX 12/36, how would one of those modify?


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

Hello BB30 direct mount ring!


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Knew this would happen lol had mine for over a week andthe bb30 comes out. 
Lucky for me the gxp has a great chainline on my bike. 

Did some weighing tonight. Droped 560g over my 3x. Best bang for the buck out there!


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

Wolftooth, looks like you're sold out on most of the direct mount gxp rings except for the 26 and 36t. Looking to pick up another couple rings. Any ETA's on either the 28 or 30's?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Kickhorse, yes it has been a bummer that those are out of stock. The Holidays have/are causing 2 week delays in restocking. That said, the good news is that all the SDM (SRAM Direct Mount) for GXP will be in stock within a week!

Happy Holidays to all!

-Brendan


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> @Kickhorse, yes it has been a bummer that those are out of stock. The Holidays have/are causing 2 week delays in restocking. That said, the good news is that all the SDM (SRAM Direct Mount) for GXP will be in stock within a week!
> 
> Happy Holidays to all!
> 
> -Brendan


Not a bummer for the WT business! Good to hear you guys are doing well and your rings are flying off the shelves!!! Thanks for the update!

Oh yeah, how about some anodized SDM rings in Yeti turquoise?!!!


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

Another happy and amazed customer... running a WT 30T on a 1x10 with SRAM X9 clutch RD on an Ibis Mojo HD. No chain drops at all without a guide today and I took it down some pretty bumpy trails (Rockit and Lynx in Socal). A friend of mine has the raceface 30t on his Mojo SLR and needs a guide.


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

Wolftooth/X01 1x11 setup. Love it. 









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Orl1exm (Oct 22, 2011)

Just ordered a 30t Direct Mount Sram GXP mounted on an X9 crank, based on the feedback from this thread. Building a Canfield Brothers Nimble 9.


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## scottie mac (Nov 3, 2011)

Got my WolfTooth front chainring in on Friday and finally got around to changing it out. Wanted to document everything, so started by weighing bike:

2012 Epic comp carbon M
I9 Crest cross country wheels (tubeless)
truativ carbon seat post
Alligator rotors
Ergonomic grips

Came out to 25.48lbs

Replaced:

SRAM carbon XO crank
Wolfs Tooth Gxp direct mount 26t front chainring
Deleted spider, both front sprockets, front derailer, cable and shifter

New weight 24.22 lbs

Dropped 1 and a quarter pound with a crank and WT chainring, not too bad. Still waiting on the clutch derailer and will more than likely replace the cog with a lighter version. With that and some lighter tires, I should be in the high 23s. 

The Wolfs Tooth chainring is REALLY nice. Quality seems awesome and weighs nothing. 

Scottie


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Is this going to effect you in any way?
SRAM to licence its narrow/wide rings.
http://m.vitalmtb.com/news/press-re...lly-License-Its-Popular-X-SYNC-Technology,927

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk


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## Adroit Rider (Oct 26, 2004)

jazzanova said:


> Is this going to effect you in any way?


Is the licensing by Sram going to affect Wolf Tooth in any way or is the the licensing going to have a big effect on competitors in the narrow/wide market?

I think more narrow/wide rings drives demand for clutch derailleurs and 1x11 drive trains. It might be counter productive for Sram to squash supply of narrow/wide.

I would also be intrigued to see a patent lawyers opinion of the tooth profile of the various narrow/wide rings.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Adroit Rider said:


> I think more narrow/wide rings drives demand for clutch derailleurs and 1x11 drive trains. It might be counter productive for Sram to squash supply of narrow/wide.
> 
> I would also be intrigued to see a patent lawyers opinion of the tooth profile of the various narrow/wide rings.


I agree on the counter productive aspect.......

As this is also my take on the NW phenomenon....it lead me to buy X01 as I aleady had the cranks/NW chainring with my 1x10 experiments with GC cassettes.

It would be a long bow to compare SRAMs NW chainrings to others on the market...I've seen similar technology in the milling industry where chains are used to drive systems....SRAM lawyers better have some evidence?

SRAM might be privy to what Shimano are about to drop as their 1x response.


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

I have my setup now completed on my Niner Jet 9, 32 DM ring, and the big question is do I ride it tomorrow night on the snowmobile trails here in Southern NH or take out the fully rigid '98 Rockhopper with 7spd and v-brakes.


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

Installed the 30T Wolf Tooth on my XT double crank (along with a new chain and cassette-I already have a type 2 Sram RD) and took it out for a spin in the hard-packed-snow-covered foothills. This is my first experience with a 1x10 setup and I am very impressed! It does almost everything my 26/38 double did (except the top-top end speed). I can tell my concerns about loosing the 26T were unfounded. I can also tell that in a race situation I will want a 32T!

Way to go Wolf Tooth! Excellent product!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Wolf Tooth Components started a year ago from Mike's simple desire to have a 1x drivetrain with no chain-guide and a choice of cranksets. It soon became obvious that a lot of other riders wanted the same thing! Within a few months, Brendan and Dan joined the Wolf Tooth team to keep up with the growing business. We are proud of what we have accomplished in 12 short months. It's been an incredible amount of work, but we are ready for more. We now have a full line of chainrings and bolts that are 100% designed and made in the U.S. We are also working on a number of new products that will be introduced over the next few months. Our products are sold to individuals and through a strong and growing dealer network around the world. The reviews of our products from customers and from professional reviewers have been overwhelmingly positive.

Additionally we are very proud that our local manufacturing partners have added full-time employees and purchased new CNC equipment as a direct result of our business. 

Most importantly, none of this would be possible without you, our customers! We appreciate your business, support and feedback. As a small thank you, we are offering 15% off all products from midnight to midnight on our anniversary date, January 15th. Enter the code 1year15off at checkout.

We are looking forward to an even better 2014. Between the three of us here at WTC world headquarters, we expect to compete in over 50 races in 2014 and ride thousands of miles, so if you see someone in a Wolf Tooth kit, be sure to say hi! 

Mike, Brendan, Dan


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## Dibbs_ (Feb 17, 2009)

Keep up the good work. I have several of your chainrings including the lovely one for my XTR 985 crank. 

Looking forward to ordering the new cassette add on.


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## Fastskiguy (Jan 15, 2004)

You guys are really role models, a startup manufacturing company here in the US making quality products. Great job and good luck in the future!


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

I eagerly await my SDM ring arriving in Austria, bummed I missed capitalizing on the anniversary discount. 

New product proposal for you: A full range of individual cogs from 11t to 42t.
Standard cassette cog spacing is not ideal for me - i.e. - 42t to 36t on XX1 cassette! I already sacrifice weight to get specific ratios by combining individual cogs from SRAM PG950 cassettes. Other individual cogs exist, but only in roadie range and with spacers. Another downside is damage to the freehub body. I'm confident the weight and damage issues can be solved. Cost and wear could be difficult to solve. If you can make a cassette conversion cog, you can make the other 9 cogs too.


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## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

Just want to give Wolftooth some props,

a few weeks back I had a question, they answered same day. I ordered a Sram direct mount 32t, shipped the same day. Ring came a few days later and mounted up perfectly on my hardtail 29er and has about 10 hours of running with no chain drops and is super quiet. Also dropped about 1lb. Love it!


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## scottie mac (Nov 3, 2011)

LOVE my Wolf Tooth set up. 

SM


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> Wolf Tooth Components started a year ago from Mike's simple desire to have a 1x drivetrain with no chain-guide and a choice of cranksets. It soon became obvious that a lot of other riders wanted the same thing! Within a few months, Brendan and Dan joined the Wolf Tooth team to keep up with the growing business. We are proud of what we have accomplished in 12 short months. It's been an incredible amount of work, but we are ready for more. We now have a full line of chainrings and bolts that are 100% designed and made in the U.S. We are also working on a number of new products that will be introduced over the next few months. Our products are sold to individuals and through a strong and growing dealer network around the world. The reviews of our products from customers and from professional reviewers have been overwhelmingly positive.
> 
> Additionally we are very proud that our local manufacturing partners have added full-time employees and purchased new CNC equipment as a direct result of our business.
> 
> ...


Good work guys! I have already posted how happy and satisfied I am with direct mount 30T on my 1X10.

As far as new products, how about wide range cassettes for 1X10? As you are aware, in order for riders to get 40t or 42t cogs they have to buy cassette and big cog separately and cob them together. Or pay big bucks for General Lee adapter, which also requires a separate cassette. There is a gap in what's available waiting to be filled and I wager there is a huge market, certainly in this forum, for a competitively priced 10 speed friendly cassette, say 11-40 or 11-42. 
Why not jump in?

FYI, my SRAM medium cage type 2 mech handles a GL 40t easily, so long as B screw screwed in all the way. Never tried a 42t but many here have.

Thanks guys. Love the small fry 
machinists competing with the Goliaths, and plan to remain loyal.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

So, deedubtee, you'll be happy to know that WTC is making a 42t cog which sits to the inside of the cassette. Remove your 17t cog and you've got a wide range 10 speed cassette. Due out in February!


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

kragu said:


> So, deedubtee, you'll be happy to know that WTC is making a 42t cog which sits to the inside of the cassette. Remove your 17t cog and you've got a wide range 10 speed cassette. Due out in February!


Step in the right direction, for sure.

Wonder if it will work with a GL 11-40 adapter already installed, and med cage mech, seemingly stretched to its limit with 40T


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Now to wait for a 40t...


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

kragu said:


> So, deedubtee, you'll be happy to know that WTC is making a 42t cog which sits to the inside of the cassette. Remove your 17t cog and you've got a wide range 10 speed cassette. Due out in February!


Wolftooth, will this work with the Shimano SLX cassette?


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## michael_RR (Jan 9, 2012)

I think slx Xt,SRAM 1030,1050,1070 will work


Enviado desde mi iPad con Tapatalk


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Was curious because 1up 42t cog only works with XT/XTR


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

jn35646 said:


> Was curious because 1up 42t cog only works with XT/XTR


I think the problem with the SLX cassette is that the 15T or 17T cogs are not individual and can't be removed to make room for the 42T. You would need to drop either the 11T or 13T cogs which may not be optimal for many users


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

I've got two 2011 SRAM XX 11-36 cassettes, both with the 36t cog worn out. The other cogs seem to work fine. Is it possible to remove the 36t and replace it with a 42t?


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

chomxxo said:


> I've got two 2011 SRAM XX 11-36 cassettes, both with the 36t cog worn out. The other cogs seem to work fine. Is it possible to remove the 36t and replace it with a 42t?


Pretty sure the XX cassettes are machined out of a single piece of material - therefore no simple removal of one cog. Technically you could get the 36 machined off and then put in something else with proper spacers, but it is not going to be an easy (or economical) solution.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

006_007 said:


> Pretty sure the XX cassettes are machined out of a single piece of material - therefore no simple removal of one cog. Technically you could get the 36 machined off and then put in something else with proper spacers, but it is not going to be an easy (or economical) solution.


Indeed. That was my second option. The XX cassettes used to have a replaceable 36t that was discontinued. Whether subsequent models were no longer removable I'm not sure; I haven't taken a look at my XX cassettes in a while. Obviously they were large investments but not being used right now. I am pretty handy with a hacksaw and Dremel  Aluminum is not that hard to work with. I imagine the end result would be something like Shimano's old "mega-range" cassettes.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

chomxxo said:


> Indeed. That was my second option. The XX cassettes used to have a replaceable 36t that was discontinued. Whether subsequent models were no longer removable I'm not sure; I haven't taken a look at my XX cassettes in a while. Obviously they were large investments but not being used right now. I am pretty handy with a hacksaw and Dremel  Aluminum is not that hard to work with. I imagine the end result would be something like Shimano's old "mega-range" cassettes.


Pretty sure those not be aluminum, but actually came from billet steel? Or do they have a few that are not?


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

006_007 said:


> Pretty sure those not be aluminum, but actually came from billet steel? Or do they have a few that are not?


http://forums.mtbr.com/sram/xx-cassette-36t-ring-701987.html

The XX 36t is aluminum for weight savings while the rest is one-piece steel. Not cool of SRAM to discontinue replacement cogs but I'm also seeing aftermarket 38 and 39ts out there, if only I can figure out how to take it off. Fingers crossed that the 2011 and later models are removable.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Theres always a bunch of Sram cassettes with the aluminum 36 worn out on Ebay. I've considered picking one up and a 40-42 inner ring. Figure it cant be that hard to make it work. As long as the cog spacing is correct and the overall cassette thickness is the same it should work.

Wolftooth needs to hurry up and get there cassette rings done.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Michael RR has it right! The SLX would only work if you were willing to drill out the rivets =)

The GCs are moving quickly now...it won't be long.


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## Andy13 (Nov 21, 2006)

Any idea when in February wolftooth is going to have their 42t cogs ready? and any idea on prices? 
thanks


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## J3SSEB (Jun 1, 2009)

I have a direct mount, narrow/wide 32t wolf tooth ring that I'd be willing to trade for a 30t or 32t direct mount single speed chain ring. Not looking for narrow/wide, prefer 30t.


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

J3SSEB said:


> I have a direct mount, narrow/wide 32t wolf tooth ring that I'd be willing to trade for a 30t or 32t direct mount single speed chain ring. Not looking for narrow/wide, prefer 30t.


I got a 28t bling ring I'd trade. Let me know if your interested. Or a 32t homebrew components spiderless ring


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

If I were a betting man, I would say early February  
Price will be right around $90.


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## J3SSEB (Jun 1, 2009)

jkidd_39 said:


> I got a 28t bling ring I'd trade. Let me know if your interested. Or a 32t homebrew components spiderless ring


If nobody has a 30t in the next few days, I'll take that 28t.


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## michael_RR (Jan 9, 2012)

U will need a chain guide i think with the bling ring


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

michael_RR said:


> U will need a chain guide i think with the bling ring


I don't. Type 2 clutch derailleur and I've been hitting every rock garden I can trying to blow the chain off.

It has been beating the hell out of me but no dropped chains. I got an E13 chain guide for sale too if anyone feels the need.


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## michael_RR (Jan 9, 2012)

Ok then, i know people and they had some problems. I still with my sram xx1 chainring


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## jkidd_39 (Sep 13, 2012)

michael_RR said:


> Ok then, i know people and they had some problems. I still with my sram xx1 chainring


Not to say your wrong. A chain can be dropped. In my opinion it's how smooth you are on a bike that determines how many drops you get.

That said in trying my best to drop the chain and I can do it.


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## J3SSEB (Jun 1, 2009)

michael_RR said:


> U will need a chain guide i think with the bling ring


I'm using this on a single speed.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Ok, so it is still January and we talked about February, but....

SHIMANO GC 42T COG sales are open! 
42T Giant Cog for Shimano ? wolftoothcomponents.com
These will ship on or before Feb 7th

This is the first lot and we are ramping production quickly so don't worry if you don't get one. We will have 2-3 batches per week coming in (no long waits when we make them 30 miles from home base!)

SRAM are about 2 weeks away.


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## Dibbs_ (Feb 17, 2009)

Sold out already. Darn.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

More coming in stock in less than a week...I will try to update here when I do FB and Twitter for all you that don't enjoy those forums.

-Brendan


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## Dibbs_ (Feb 17, 2009)

Thanks Brendan. I'll keep supporting you guys.

You're components are holding up superbly in the British winter mud.


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## fer83 (Jan 7, 2007)

When will be the silver ones for shimano available?

thanks.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Just installed a 30t on my XT crankset, we will see how it does! Ill be looking to pickup a 42t for my 29er. Picks to follow

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

A handful more black GC for Shimano available...


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks! I'm looking for a cheap XT cassette but have a spare SLX I may try to hack into working


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@JN
let us know how it goes. If you are good with drill (suggest a drill press) you should be able to make it work by drilling out the rivets. We obviously can't recommend it because it voids the shimano warranty on the cassette.


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

Any chance of the giant cog working with a short cage? 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@PWE312 - we recommend a medium cage.


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

Dibbs_ said:


> Sold out already. Darn.


Black ones still available. I just ordered 2 of them.


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Brendan:

Are we going to see a 40 tooth rear cog? just like to know weather i should get the 42 or wait.

thx. Joe


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> @JN
> let us know how it goes. If you are good with drill (suggest a drill press) you should be able to make it work by drilling out the rivets. We obviously can't recommend it because it voids the shimano warranty on the cassette.


Will do. Neighbor has a drill press I can borrow. I checked my spare "SLX" cassette and it's either an older one or not really SLX cause the 15 and 17 are included in the pinned cog set, rather than just the 17. Gonna drill both off! Can't find any examples online for this mod so I'll just have to be the one to create it.

Can't wait till the 42t gets here to report back.


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Black ones sold out also. Shows available but out of stock when checking out. I'll just wait for the next batch. Looking forward to match it to the front 32T. 

Brendan, can you share what makes the WT cog better than the competitors?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

WOOHOO

Scored a black 42t, 30t frt and blu ano long bolts for my SLX crank

Will be going on my Kona 29er Satori unless my bike ADHD pulls trigger on Kona Process or Norco Sight... either way - ill post up once mounted and ridden!


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Awesome feeding frenzy. I dont even need one of these right now and I wanna be able to order one!

Keep up the good work WTC.


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## Jumpcaser (Apr 7, 2012)

Brendan, it looks like you'll be doing a run of red GC for Shimano. Are you going to do a run of red for the Sram? Any other colors in the works? black or red is good for me, just curious


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

Haven't been following the thread closely, but how is the wear on these chain rings? I have the 30T raceface n/w and the outside face of the narrow teeth are really worn out (significantly polished and looking thin) and some of the teeth are even chipped. This was with a new KMC chain and ridden about twice a week for 6 months.

This was for a 73mm chain line, so I took out the bottom bracket spacer to move it closer to the frame as I feel it was due to climbing in the 36T cog a lot. I have had some drop chains in the 11T cog as I think its because the chain line is more angled due to the spacer removal. My plan is to get the 42T wolftooth cog with the 32T chainring and get my 73mm chain line back as soon as the cogs go on sale again.

Anybody with the same wear problems?


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

jammin said:


> Brendan:
> 
> Are we going to see a 40 tooth rear cog? just like to know weather i should get the 42 or wait.
> 
> thx. Joe


A: No. The 42T gives the best overall gear range and shifting performance. If you are worried about the 6 tooth jump from 36 to 42, don't be! Once you try it, we are confident you will agree with us that it's actually the perfect jump. You can always use a front chainring that is 2T larger if you are worried about the gearing being too low 

From their GC tech page


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I've been riding a home made 42t ring for a few months and even without ramps on the teeth, my shifting is good. The ratio from 42-36 feels a lot like 36-32. It's just fine. I'm willing to bet the WT ring is butter.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

mikodipo said:


> Haven't been following the thread closely, but how is the wear on these chain rings? I have the 30T raceface n/w and the outside face of the narrow teeth are really worn out (significantly polished and looking thin) and some of the teeth are even chipped. This was with a new KMC chain and ridden about twice a week for 6 months.
> 
> This was for a 73mm chain line, so I took out the bottom bracket spacer to move it closer to the frame as I feel it was due to climbing in the 36T cog a lot. I have had some drop chains in the 11T cog as I think its because the chain line is more angled due to the spacer removal. My plan is to get the 42T wolftooth cog with the 32T chainring and get my 73mm chain line back as soon as the cogs go on sale again.
> 
> Anybody with the same wear problems?




















This is 585.5 miles of wear, and these pictures make it look worse than it is. The chain line on the SDM is almost perfect, so I'd imagine it would wear less quickly than, say, a 104 BCD or something. I had one drop early on which had nothing to do with wear and everything to do with a G-out at high speed.


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## StevePodraza (Jun 29, 2006)

have the 34 red WT front and should be getting my black proto 42 cog today! cant wait, my Liteville 301 will be sweet! Thanks Brendan! great customer service!


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

kragu said:


> This is 585.5 miles of wear, and these pictures make it look worse than it is. The chain line on the SDM is almost perfect, so I'd imagine it would wear less quickly than, say, a 104 BCD or something. I had one drop early on which had nothing to do with wear and everything to do with a G-out at high speed.











Here is what my Raceface N/W looks like in comparison... Cant wait to get the Wolftooth to compare wear.

Just looked to see when I bought the chainring.... purchase Nov. 24th, 2013! Only about 2 months of riding and the teeth are already breaking off.....


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## FM (Apr 30, 2003)

mikodipo said:


> Here is what my Raceface N/W looks like in comparison... Cant wait to get the Wolftooth to compare wear.
> 
> Just looked to see when I bought the chainring.... purchase Nov. 24th, 2013! Only about 2 months of riding and the teeth are already breaking off.....


Your chainline could be a big factor on premature wear. Just sayin'


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

FM said:


> Your chainline could be a big factor on premature wear. Just sayin'


I agree, but it doesn't make sense that i have the bottom bracket set for a 73mm chain line using 1 spacer, which is what the frame is designed for. It's not like it is on a singlespeed or anything where chain line is super critical. I thought it was a chain line issue at first, so i took out the spacer and moved it in, which helped the outer surface wear, but then my chain line would be at a larger angle in the


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

FM said:


> Your chainline could be a big factor on premature wear. Just sayin'


I agree, I have ~350 (hard) miles on my RF N/W ring and it still looks virtually new. Hard to tell from the picture if you are using a chain guide, I am wondering if you have one of those on the bottom and it causes the chain to have a weird chain line... Also, if you are bashing into rocks and that is causing it, they will all chip  I would get a bashgaurd if that was the case (that tooth on the top left sure looks like it has had a run in with a rock or something hard)...


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Got mine today! Mounted up with no issues, super nice they included a longer B screw. Quality is the normal from Wolf Tooth, meaning HIGH. Looks really nice and is well finished. Details on the teeth look great. Has the feel of something that will outlast a few cassettes.

I've got a 34T chainring and XT med cage and needed to add 2 links of chain. Shifts up and down pretty much like stock. No hesitation, skipping, or added noise. Can't wait to go do a nice relaxing spin on frozen mud tomorrow morning and give her a real test.

Edit: I've got no clue how to get the image rotated, sorry


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

Has anyone tried a N/W ring with an 8 speed chain? I can only assume the chain is to wide to grip the teeth properly, but it would be fun to convert my beater winter bike to a single ring up front.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

offrhodes42 said:


> Has anyone tried a N/W ring with an 8 speed chain? I can only assume the chain is to wide to grip the teeth properly, but it would be fun to convert my beater winter bike to a single ring up front.


It'll work. It won't retain the chain as well as a 9 or 10 speed chain though. You can run a 9 speed chain and it'll match well with the 8 speed cassette and n/w.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

FastBanana said:


> It'll work. It won't retain the chain as well as a 9 or 10 speed chain though. You can run a 9 speed chain and it'll match well with the 8 speed cassette and n/w.
> 
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


I am actually running a 7 speed cassette on the beater with an 8 speed chain.


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Just installed my 42t. Shifting was very smooth. Didn't need the longer B screw on a xtr shadow plus derailleur. I ditch my 11t instead of the 17t.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

What's the point if you ditch the 11? The range wont be much if any wider, wouldn't it be better to change the front ring size?


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

pablobell said:


> What's the point if you ditch the 11? The range wont be much if any wider, wouldn't it be better to change the front ring size?


I hardly ever use my 11t. The other reason is, to have the best possible shifting. Shifting between the 15 and 19 when the 17t is remove is a bit clunky. I'd even tried the 16t in place of the 15t amd the shifting isn't where I want it. this set up works for my type of riding and my local trails.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

What Pablobell was trying to say is you could've accomplished the same range by simply going to a smaller chainring.

10-42t = 420% range = XX1
11-42t = 382% range = goal with the GC cog

11-36t = 327% range = stock XTR cassette
13-42t = 323% range = your cassette with the 11 removed


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Range is irrelevant if you don't use it. The point of the 42tcog is to get higher gearing with a single ring set up (assuming we're using a practical front ring >32t)


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

WHALENARD said:


> Range is irrelevant if you don't use it. The point of the 42tcog is to get higher gearing with a single ring set up.


 My point exactly.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

You weaklings failed math class.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

aosty said:


> You weaklings failed math class.


Wrong. Running a smaller front ring becomes impractical at <32teeth as most bikes will pedal like poo. So while he may not have the "range" he will have a more desirable ratio.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

aosty said:


> You weaklings failed math class.


Yes the whole point of 11-42 is the range. To go to 13-42 will only make sense if one did not want to use a smaller chain ring in 11-36 combo, lets say to avoid pedal feedback on vpp...


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

All righty... fair enough.

That was not clearly stated and I'll retract my previous statement.

*hugs*


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

How does the size of the rings provide more or less pedal input into a VPP system if you acheive the same gearing and therefor the same mechanical advantage over the suspension?

A smaller ring with a 11-36 is best if you don't need the 11. If you are concerned about chain retention with a small ring, get a chain guide. But I digress. 

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

FastBanana said:


> How does the size of the rings provide more or less pedal input into a VPP system if you acheive the same gearing and therefor the same mechanical advantage over the suspension?
> 
> A smaller ring with a 11-36 is best if you don't need the 11. If you are concerned about chain retention with a small ring, get a chain guide. But I digress.
> 
> Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk


The force vector (line) from the tension in the chain creates a moment about the (virtual) pivot which activates the suspension. If the force line goes through the pivot, the moment is zero. It's really obvious on single pivot bikes - the pivot is aligned with the 32t ring - for example. In that case, the chain tension when using smaller rings, even if gear ratio is the same, will create a moment and act to compress the suspension. This pedal induced suspension movement can be used to counter suspension movement caused other factors - i.e. body mass - but I'm not qualified to explain that. I ride a hardtail.

I will add that suspension designers like at Pivot are in fact designing specifically for 1x drivetrains.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

Been runninng 28t Widgit on SC VPP2 bikes since 2009 and now running WTC 26t SRAM DM and not exerienced the fabled tug back......used to be common though when I had a SC VPP1 bike (4X/VPFree) and I was in the 22t granny ring....


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Similarly I run the 26t on my 650b Heckler with no odd pedal feedback to speak of...

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## sasquatch rides a SS (Dec 27, 2010)

Well this thread fell to sh*t quick. 

Anybody know when the Sram 42t cogs will be available?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

sasquatch rides a SS said:


> Well this thread fell to sh*t quick.
> 
> Anybody know when the Sram 42t cogs will be available?


Presale any day now, whatever that means. Supposed to be "later in the week of Feb. 3." According to my calculations, that means tomorrow or Friday.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

So excited for it!


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## digifun (Jul 17, 2006)

Shimano red now open


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Thanks! Order placed.


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

…waiting patiently for the silver shimano 42T...


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

waiting for the Sram to be released, been checking all day everyday in hopes to get one up still a no go so far.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

Triaxtremec said:


> waiting for the Sram to be released, been checking all day everyday in hopes to get one up still a no go so far.


Their facebook post today 
The first batch of Red Shimano GCs came and went quickly (all yesterday evening)! If you are wondering how to get your hands on a GC, just go to the product page, select the color of your choice and click on the green tab on the right side of the screen. You will get an email when the batch opens for pre-sale and jump on it when you get the email.

The next batches will be SRAM GCs, likely in 2 colors, sometime later next week, and the mills are turning as fast as they can. I expect more Shimano to go on sale in about 1.5 weeks.

Suffice it to say, our manufacturing partners are really rocking on the GCs while still keeping up with the rings, bolts, etc. Thanks to our customers, WTC demand forced one of them to recently add another of those "high skilled" positions that politicians like to talk about We like having high skilled people making our WTC stuff!


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

I read that but their website says they will release it late in the week of 2/3. Just frustrating.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

Triaxtremec said:


> waiting for the Sram to be released, been checking all day everyday in hopes to get one up still a no go so far.


Who needs SRAM or the big S? There's better alternatives.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Other than Shimano, who makes mountain cogs?


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## Triaxtremec (May 21, 2011)

Read about the general lee But not feeling it vs the cost of the wolftooth GC


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## mpw29er (Nov 13, 2011)

Just finished the install. It works great. First big ride in the AM.



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

Just got my GC installed on my bronson, rode it around my very hilly neighborhood and it shifts just like it did with the standard cassette.

Just a little confused as to how much clearence I need from the derailer. Here is a pic, let me know what you think.

Also, does this chain lengh look correct?


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## jammin (Dec 9, 2005)

Mark194 said:


> Just got my GC installed on my bronson, rode it around my very hilly neighborhood and it shifts just like it did with the standard cassette.
> 
> Just a little confused as to how much clearence I need from the derailer. Here is a pic, let me know what you think.
> 
> Also, does this chain lengh look correct?


Any chance you can get a picture of the chain line? just curious what it looks like.


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

Mark,
Looks good to me, about to do my Bronson. How did it go with the b screw, did you change it out?


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## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

I did, but I dont think I needed to. I screwed in the stock one all the way and everything seemed to work good. I did it to get a little more clearance between the cog and the derailer


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## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

I will post a pic tomorrow


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

Mark194 said:


> Just got my GC installed on my bronson, rode it around my very hilly neighborhood and it shifts just like it did with the standard cassette.
> 
> Just a little confused as to how much clearence I need from the derailer. Here is a pic, let me know what you think.
> 
> Also, does this chain lengh look correct?


Hey Mark, that clearance looks a little tight. Ideally you want at least 5mm spacing between the cog and the pulley. But if it is shifting well and not noisy, by all means keep as is!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## Mark194 (Mar 3, 2012)

*GC works perfectly*

15 mile test ride on the 42 GC at South Mountain, National trail was a success. Trail is very rocky, technical, and rough. Zero dropped chain, and flawless shifting!!


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

SRAM GC is up. Black only, ships Feb. 18.


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## S.Jorge (Apr 18, 2010)

How much does it weight (42t Wolf Cog)?


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

83g. The 17t (and spacer) you'll be removing weighs about 17g, so you'll wind up with a cassette thats 66g heavier than stock. I think I read that the One Up is 13g less.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I read something that compared them somewhere, maybe facebook? But they said the WT cog is slightly thicker than the OU to keep it stiffer and has brand specific ramps. It is slightly heavier but I've bent a steel 32t cog in a cassette I dont need a weak 42t cog.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I read much of the same info here this morning:

http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/02/11/hands-on-wolf-tooth-components-gc-42t-shimano-cassette-adapter/


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

any SHIMANO pre-sale news? supposedly happening today..


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## Tunalic (Feb 13, 2012)

The Sram Black 42t GC went on sale earlier. I barely got my order in.... I see now they are sold out now.


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## mikodipo (May 20, 2009)

what was the reasoning for not taking pre-sale orders? I'd rather give them my money now and just have them send it when they're available instead of waiting for them to come in stock and hoping that I got the notice in time to put in an order.


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## aosty (Jan 7, 2004)

mikodipo said:


> what was the reasoning for not taking pre-sale orders? I'd rather give them my money now and just have them send it when they're available instead of waiting for them to come in stock and hoping that I got the notice in time to put in an order.


Here's one good argument against taking money before having stock in hand:
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/homebrewed-components-694887-93.html#post10999135


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

pre-sale got pushed back again for the 21st!... sigh...


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## twowheelfunman (Aug 29, 2008)

I am stoked! Installed a FOX 34 Talas with 2014 FIT cartridge, American Classic Wide Lightning wheels, direct mount 30t NW Chainring, GC 42t (from Feb 18th shipment). Got the beastly Rumblefish down to 28lbs even with dropper post and 34mm chassis fork! PUMPED. Rides so much more lively and doesn't work me over nearly as much as before on the CO Front Range. Tested everything in Pueblo yesterday. Flawless!!


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

unbelievable! for two straight days i've almost tripped on people trying to get to my computer at work so i wont miss ordering the 42GC... and both occasions failed. . geez.. wonder how far out i am in the line..


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## pwe312 (Dec 18, 2013)

Check your lbs. They probably have to supply them too

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

pwe312 said:


> Check your lbs. They probably have to supply them too
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


i dont think the guys at my LBS know anything about MODS like this.. but no harm in trying.. will call..thanks for the suggestion.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

bapski said:


> unbelievable! for two straight days i've almost tripped on people trying to get to my computer at work so i wont miss ordering the 42GC... and both occasions failed. . geez.. wonder how far out i am in the line..


I think by the time that most are even getting notified, all the stock is already sold.

By the time these actually become available, Absolute Black will probably have their 40t version out and One Up might actually have something in stock.

Its too bad, the bigger companies like Race Face, Hope and Blackspire, aren't producing a big cog.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

al-r said:


> I think by the time that most are even getting notified, all the stock is already sold.
> 
> By the time these actually become available, Absolute Black will probably have their 40t version out and One Up might actually have something in stock.
> 
> Its too bad, the bigger companies like Race Face, Hope and Blackspire, aren,t producing a big cog.


reason i have not considered ONE UP was because, it too was backordered but seems like it'll be available sooner .. ill stay strong and go by the good reviews that WOLFTOOTH has and wait a bit longer i guess..


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## Bighec (Apr 1, 2009)

I'd like to give huge props to WT. I ordered the wrong DM chainring and they managed to swap it out for the right one last minute and they still got it to me within a week!!! These guys are the real deal.

Not a first time buyer either. I've got a 104 BCD for my Shimano cranks on the floor there if you look closely...

You guys are awesome. Now just make a GXP DM that looks just as sexy as the BB30 DM gosh darn it!!!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

You know they use kitten fat to grease the axles of egg-beaters don't you?


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## Bighec (Apr 1, 2009)

Was not aware. I'm not too fond of cats, so I guess it suits me... 8)


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

al-r said:


> Its too bad, the bigger companies like Race Face, *Hope* and Blackspire, aren't producing a big cog.


Hope is jumping on the bandwagon...










These guys too: https://www.facebook.com/Twenty6Products

Now we just need a "proper" rear derailleur that will work with the 42T.


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

Got my WT Giant Cog today.

Installed it as per instructions and the shifting is terrible. I have been tuning my gears for decades so know what I am doing but cannot get the shifting to perform adequately with the GC installed. Have emailed WT about this so we'll see what they suggest.

I think while a 42T cog might be the next logical gear up from the 36T in terms of gear ratios, I'm inclined to think that a 40T wouldn't require the B Tension screw of current 10speed Shimano derailleurs to need to be dialed in so far, leading to better shifting performance.

So far.....not so good.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
We have a new plan for ordering GCs that should help satisfy the demand better and be easier for folks to plan for:
Sales will now open every week on Tuesday at 4pm US Central Standard Time. Sales will stay open until our weekly volume output has been reached, at which point sales will be closed until the following Tuesday at 4pm CST. We anticipate sales to stay open for more than 24 hours.

Any orders with GCs in them will ship between 2-3 weeks after they are placed. We invite you to place separate orders if you are ordering other products so you don't have to wait for those other products.

42T GC cog for Shimano ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

You guys must be raking it in. Happy for y'all!


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

2 to 3 weeks? oh noh.. i guess ill have to look somewhere else..


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

bapski said:


> 2 to 3 weeks? oh noh.. i guess ill have to look somewhere else..


Bapski,

I have one I'm wanting to sell. Where are you based?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

anno88 said:


> Bapski,
> 
> I have one I'm wanting to sell. Where are you based?


Pm sent


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

i plan to try the WT NW ring and GC but plan to use a 9 speen XT or SLX crank. Will that cause a problem on the chainline since I will be mixing with the 10speed cassette? Will the chainline or shifting be affected if I mix and match this way? I ask since I am not sure if the 9 speed crank has different spacing.

thanks in advance.


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> We have a new plan for ordering GCs that should help satisfy the demand better and be easier for folks to plan for:
> Sales will now open every week on Tuesday at 4pm US Central Standard Time. Sales will stay open until our weekly volume output has been reached, at which point sales will be closed until the following Tuesday at 4pm CST. We anticipate sales to stay open for more than 24 hours.
> 
> ...


Thank you for making this change to the ordering process.

Edit: Order is in!


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## Revolver1529 (Oct 5, 2009)

Hey all, not sure which chainring to buy from Wolf Tooth. The bike is a 2013 Giant Anthem X 29. It has a OEM SRAM crank with GXP BB. The spec sheet says it SRAM S1000, 26/39 and has a 120BCD. I'm looking at a 30t or 32t. Would that be the "direct mount ring for GXP" I need? Just looking at the pictures on the website and my bike I have no idea how it mounts.

Thanks in advance.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

Revolver1529 said:


> Hey all, not sure which chainring to buy from Wolf Tooth. The bike is a 2013 Giant Anthem X 29. It has a OEM SRAM crank with GXP BB. The spec sheet says it SRAM S1000, 26/39 and has a 120BCD. I'm looking at a 30t or 32t. Would that be the "direct mount ring for GXP" I need? Just looking at the pictures on the website and my bike I have no idea how it mounts.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Direct mount is if you have a removable spider, which it doesnt loo like the s1000 has.... You should really be able to tell by just looking at the crank if a direct mount would work or not..


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## gbug (Jul 20, 2010)

SandSpur said:


> Direct mount is if you have a removable spider, which it doesnt loo like the s1000 has.... You should really be able to tell by just looking at the crank if a direct mount would work or not..


To add on to Sandspurs comment, if your spider is removable you will see several bolts holding it in place if you remove the crankset? Have you pulled the cranks to take a peek?


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## Revolver1529 (Oct 5, 2009)

gbug said:


> To add on to Sandspurs comment, if your spider is removable you will see several bolts holding it in place if you remove the crankset? Have you pulled the cranks to take a peek?


I haven't taken the cranks off, but the spider and crankarm are all one piece.Rings bolt directly to spider.


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## JFalcetti (Feb 16, 2009)

Can't wait to get this finished and out on the trail! Just threw this new WolfTooth 34T ring on...... Looks sick!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

@JFalcetti nice looking Rush! Perfect chain ring size for that single pivot.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Need help on my gxp DM. Switched to a carbon frame today and things are all messed up.

here's the clearance with the 10mm spacer and a mm or added from shims to clear the stay. These were both bb30 bikes. both Cannondale flash 29



I have a 16mm that was on my alloy frame to begin with. When I switched over to the x9 I used the 10mm spacer and it worked perfect. If I use the 16mm spacer (if its even possible) my chain line will be pretty messed up (at least I think)

heres the middle cog and it looks to be pretty good.


looks like if I go out any further this will get worse.




Thing is I would like to get a 32 or 34 tooth one day. there is no way there is room in there right now. unless the rings are offset different for different tooth sizes.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Machine,
If you only have a 10mm spacer you need the BB30 short spindle ring (it is a flat ring vs the dished GXP). Check out the 3rd picture here for details on that:
Direct Mount for SRAM BB30 Short Spindle Cranks - wolftoothcomponents.com

I hope this helps.

-Brendan


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks for the reply, this sucks, I bought the gxp a week or two before the bb30 was announced. Weird that I had a good chain line on my alloy with the short spindle and 10mm spacer. The carbon must be way different.

Does that chain line look ok for now, There is no money left for a new ring.

If you think this one will work I will order a bb30 in a bigger size when my wife isnt looking......


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

[QUOTE
If you think this one will work I will order a bb30 in a bigger size when my wife isnt looking......[/QUOTE]
* When the wife isn't looking,,, LOL sounds like my house!!!!
*


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Funny=) 

The GXP will work ok for you, and actually better than the BB30 if you spend most of the time in the 6 (or so) biggest cogs. Your chain line will be akin to a granny gear on a triple, so in the smallest cog the cross-chaining is pretty ugly and will make your chain wear faster.
With the BB30, the chainline will be like the middle ring of a triple (centered on the cassette).

-Brendan


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

ok , thats good news then. I'm headed to Pisgah in N.C next week and I heard there might be a climb or two.

The clearance to the chain stay is a bit scary.ins only 2-3mm.

Now I am wondering how big I can go on this frame. I see you only go to a 34 on the bb30 DM.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Got my GC yesterday! For those that have installed, how likely am I to need a new chain? I know the WT installation guide says its likely but not definitely? I'm running an 11-36 10 spd XT cassette with a med cage RD. Is it definite?


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## jn35646 (Mar 3, 2011)

trumpus said:


> Got my GC yesterday! For those that have installed, how likely am I to need a new chain? I know the WT installation guide says its likely but not definitely? I'm running an 11-36 10 spd XT cassette with a med cage RD. Is it definite?


Most likely. Nobody will know how your chain is sized though. If it was super slack you might be ok. Get a chain and worst case is you have a spare


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

jn35646 said:


> Most likely. Nobody will know how your chain is sized though. If it was super slack you might be ok. Get a chain and worst case is you have a spare


So, I ended up just taking it to my mechanic to set up. Turns out my Yeti didn't come with an XT cassette (which surprised me) so with a new cassette, the GC installed and RD adjusted, it shifted well in the stand. He said I didn't absolutely NEED a new chain, but it was close and when I was due for a new one, to just size up one or two links.

I got home and took a spin around the block. It shifts reasonably well, though not stellar and there's a knocking from my RD in the middle of the cassette which seems worse when I adjust the b limit IN.

Any thoughts? I'm embarrassed to say I've got a mental block against RD setup (its on my list of things to just learn) so if there's something simple, I may be missing it. I'm going to get a new chain regardless.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Went through this thread and scoured the internet, but did not find what I was looking for, so I will ask it in here.

I have an XTR M980 double crankset, and what to run a single WT 30t with the XTR caps. Is it possible? I've only seen pictures with bolts mounted on the front of the crank, as the 30t ring is threaded.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Any one on the fence about these products or the people that make them, get off and make a purchase!! These guys are awesome to deal with. They been a big help to me and also happen to make a great product.

Cant wait to buy more stuff!!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Thrawn,
Sorry, you have to run it like the pictures you have seen. The ring is threaded (as are the caps) and of course you can only use one set of threads=)


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> @Thrawn,
> Sorry, you have to run it like the pictures you have seen. The ring is threaded (as are the caps) and of course you can only use one set of threads=)


No worries... Thanks!

So with the WT 32t ring or larger, is the OE bolt used to thread into the XTR caps, or are the WT 6mm bolts required?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

FYI - we opened GC pre-sales a little early (tonite vs tomorrow). We plan to leave them open for a few days at least.

-Brendan


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

this may seem like a stupid question but here goes...i have an X9 12-36 cassette..will it work with the GC?

if it works will there be any issues as opposed to using an 11-36?


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## spicolli1976 (Jun 30, 2007)

Hi WolfTooth,
I just ordered a 30T chainring and a 42T GC, and I am so excited to put it on my bike!!!! I have a Shimano XT Shadow M781 rear derail. Will this work or should I get the XT M786 Shadow Plus? If both work, can you please give quick advantages and disadvantages?
Thanks!!!


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

spicolli1976 said:


> Hi WolfTooth,
> I just ordered a 30T chainring and a 42T GC, and I am so excited to put it on my bike!!!! I have a Shimano XT Shadow M781 rear derail. Will this work or should I get the XT M786 Shadow Plus? If both work, can you please give quick advantages and disadvantages?
> Thanks!!!


Both Derailleurs will work. "should I get the XT M786 Shadow Plus?" -- Yes, do you have to... no. Should you get XTR Shadow+, yes LOL  Seriously though, the difference between Shadow and Shadow+ is the clutch mechanism. The clutch will greatly reduce chain slap, and will also decrease the likelihood of dropping your chain, but regular Shadow will work, and you should not have a problem with dropping the chain, these N/W chainrings do a great job of keeping the chain on the ring.

XT Shadow Plus is $76.99
Have Jenson price match wiggle or chain reaction cycles for US based shipping and faster delivery
Shimano XT M786 Shadow+ 10 Speed Rear Mech | Chain Reaction Cycles
wiggle.com | Shimano Deore XT M786 Shadow Plus Rear Derailleur | Derailleurs Rear - MTB)
Shimano XT M786 Rear Derailleur > Components > Drivetrain > Rear Derailleurs | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

You could even get the SLX Shadow Plus (Shimano SLX M675 Rear Derailleur > Components > Drivetrain > Rear Derailleurs | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop) for $65


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## HoJo (Jan 26, 2004)

trumpus. The sound could be from the jockey wheel hitting your cassette that usually gives a knocking sound, if it's derailleur adjustment it usually chatters. Jockey wheel hitting your cassette is a b screw adjustment. If you turn the b screw clockwise it should push the upper jockey wheel further from the cassette. Shimano likes the distance from jockey to cassette tooth to be small just clearing. See shimano rear der set up link
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...005/SI_5W70A_005_En_v1_m56577569830655487.pdf

Assuming you have your b scew set correctly then you need to adjust your shifting between cassette cogs per the linked url. Note the closer the b gap it set the better a shimano rer der will shift. This does not apply to SRAM rear ders as they require a larger b screw gap adjustment.
hojo


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## spicolli1976 (Jun 30, 2007)

A+ Thanks mtbdennis!!!


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I am interested ot purchase the 42T GC for my shimano XT cassette, does it affect the smoothness of shifting if I decided to use the 42T GC?


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## FreeCoffee (Jan 13, 2012)

*Re: 11-42T conversion: OneUp vs. Wolf Tooth*

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=11046734

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

rave81 said:


> I am interested ot purchase the 42T GC for my shimano XT cassette, does it affect the smoothness of shifting if I decided to use the 42T GC?


Do you happen to read the 665 posts before yours?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Just received my 42T GC for SRAM and 30T GXP Sram chainring. Super fast delivery and excellent quality. This is my second order of product from these folks and they are the real deal. Keep it up Wolftooth and you got a customer till I pedal my last run. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Just got this on...it's a thing of beauty! Keep it up Wolftooth I love your stuff!!


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## D Boogie C (Aug 9, 2013)

Which sprocket fits a SRAM S1000 GXP?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Jst got my 42GC installed. Shifting seems ok. Only thing is while on the stand and back-pedalling, the chain drops down.

I know ive read that has been a common occurence but i thought i read this was experienced while riding inbrhe trail and nit while in stand. Or perhaps i read wrong?

Looks like its because of the chainline and was wondering if there is any fine tuning i need to do?

I have a 32T WT, XT SHADOW PLUS DER LONG,


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## smithcreek (Nov 27, 2012)

*Won't work with 2011 SRAM medium cage X0*

Not sure if this is a known issue, I have not seen it on the Wolftooth website or looked through this whole thread. I received my 42t SRAM cog today and could not get it to work at all. There was no way to get the required spacing between the pulley and cassette even with the long b-screw. I had it so far out that it shifted like crap through the whole range. I was about to give up when I decided to at least mount another SRAM derailleur I had. As soon as I put it on I realized what the issue was.

The first derailleur was 2011 medium cage. On that derailleur the cage is mounted to the body directly in line with the center of the top pulley wheel. When the cage is pulled forward the top pulley stays the same distance from the cog. The second derailleur was a 2012 long cage which has the cage is mounted off center from the top pulley so that when the cage is pulled forward the distance between the pulley and cog increases. Of course, on the 42T cog the cage is pulled way forward and the is more than enough space. I think it's a model year difference not a long vs. medium cage difference because I checked out a medium cage type 2 and the pulley if offset. For sure the *SRAM 2011 medium cage X0 is not going to work*, maybe all the 2011 won't.

Glad I tried the other derailleur because I was already thinking how I was going to word the classified ad. Hope that makes sense. Have to say, once I put the 2012 long cage on I'm very impressed. It shifts great. Looking forward to trying it out on the trails.


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## D Boogie C (Aug 9, 2013)

Hopefully wolftooth can answer this question. What is the return policy?


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## dfrazm (Oct 4, 2007)

I can't say anything about the 2011 Sram, but I found that even with the 2012 cage with the off center mounting that the shifting was better with more chain (less cage pull/upper pulley closer to the cogs). See review here:
11-42T conversion: OneUp vs. Wolf Tooth - Page 21


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

smithcreek said:


> Not sure if this is a known issue, I have not seen it on the Wolftooth website or looked through this whole thread. I received my 42t SRAM cog today and could not get it to work at all. There was no way to get the required spacing between the pulley and cassette even with the long b-screw. I had it so far out that it shifted like crap through the whole range. I was about to give up when I decided to at least mount another SRAM derailleur I had. As soon as I put it on I realized what the issue was.
> 
> The first derailleur was 2011 medium cage. On that derailleur the cage is mounted to the body directly in line with the center of the top pulley wheel. When the cage is pulled forward the top pulley stays the same distance from the cog. The second derailleur was a 2012 long cage which has the cage is mounted off center from the top pulley so that when the cage is pulled forward the distance between the pulley and cog increases. Of course, on the 42T cog the cage is pulled way forward and the is more than enough space. I think it's a model year difference not a long vs. medium cage difference because I checked out a medium cage type 2 and the pulley if offset. For sure the *SRAM 2011 medium cage X0 is not going to work*, maybe all the 2011 won't.
> 
> Glad I tried the other derailleur because I was already thinking how I was going to word the classified ad. Hope that makes sense. Have to say, once I put the 2012 long cage on I'm very impressed. It shifts great. Looking forward to trying it out on the trails.


We have tested and confirmed that the older SRAM derailleurs with concentric jockey wheel will not work well (or in many cases, not at all). This will be an issue with any 42T cassette sprocket, not just Wolf Tooth. The newer SRAM derailleurs with offset jockey wheel do work great as you found out. If you want to run the 42T, it's a good opportunity to upgrade to a clutch-type RD as well 
Mike


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## m5161968 (Jan 26, 2013)

Probably an old question but what's the turn around time for delivery of WT products? Been a week so far, I'm just anxious.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Boogie,
Our return policy is that we take returns if the item has no been mounted (can't resell it as new otherwise). You can contact us at [email protected] for more details on that.

@m516
All products except GCs that you can buy ship within 2 days (they will say sold out if we don't have any in hand). The GCs ship 2-3 weeks after they have been ordered right now. We do expect to be shipping GCs out of stock by next week as well. The same email above works for you if you have specific questions about an order.


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## m5161968 (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks WolfTooth. But why the long delivery time? I got time, just thought I be be riding 1x10 sooner.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@m516 - the GC sales were done as pre-sales after the small batch release was frustrating customers. No one likes hanging out by their computer and hitting refresh hoping to see a GC in stock!

If you have any more questions, just shoot me an email: [email protected]

-Brendan


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

I see some rumblings around about 40t cogs for those that want something a little less than 42t... 
I have to think that a small nimble company with a local supply chain could get something like this going pretty quickly. 
I guess we will all know in a few weeks


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> I see some rumblings around about 40t cogs for those that want something a little less than 42t...
> I have to think that a small nimble company with a local supply chain could get something like this going pretty quickly.
> I guess we will all know in a few weeks


That's what we want to hear


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

WolfTooth,
I have been running (and enjoying!) one of your 30T 104bcd rings. I am interested in a 32T for racing purposes (same XT 104 bcd crankset), but I don't like the spacer solution for the 32T ring. Why don't you guys produce a ring with the same small milled-in offset as the 30T ring? That is the best solution.
Thanks!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> I see some rumblings around about 40t cogs for those that want something a little less than 42t...
> I have to think that a small nimble company with a local supply chain could get something like this going pretty quickly.
> I guess we will all know in a few weeks


Sounds like order number 3 to me... would go great on my hard tail!

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

beastmaster said:


> WolfTooth,
> I have been running (and enjoying!) one of your 30T 104bcd rings. I am interested in a 32T for racing purposes (same XT 104 bcd crankset), but I don't like the spacer solution for the 32T ring. Why don't you guys produce a ring with the same small milled-in offset as the 30T ring? That is the best solution.
> Thanks!


Is this for an XT 2x crank? My mechanic just filed the arms a bit and it fits like a glove.


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

trumpus said:


> Is this for an XT 2x crank? My mechanic just filed the arms a bit and it fits like a glove.


Yes, but I don't like the idea of filing the spider as much as the idea of WolfTooth milling their product (like the 104bcd 30T ring) so the spider wouldn't have to be modified or use of spacers.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Spacer solution for 32t?


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

Good times..

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## truongasaurus (May 10, 2013)

I decided not to use my Wolftooth GC 42T for Shimano.
It's brand new and still in package. PM if interested.


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## ~MAX-Moab~ (Nov 22, 2013)

I have a question for WolfTooth. Obviously there are significant differences between 9-speed, 10-speed, and 11-speed chains, and you can't run an incompatible chain on a drivetrain (for instance a 9-speed chain on a 10-speed drive-train). Since the main difference between chains is width, how can your drop-stop chainrings work equally well on 9-speed, 10-speed, and 11-speed chains? Do some chain types work better than others? 

I would assume that an 11-speed chain would be the least likely to fall off because its the narrowest. If your chainrings work equally well for different chains, does that mean that the XX1 chainrings would work for a 10-speed chain? Also, what is the difference between your chainrings and Srams 1X11 chainrings? Are Sram's any different because they're designed for only an 11-speed chain? 

Sorry for so many questions, I'm just curious.


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## tiflow_21 (Oct 27, 2005)

~MAX-Moab~ said:


> I have a question for WolfTooth. Obviously there are significant differences between 9-speed, 10-speed, and 11-speed chains, and you can't run an incompatible chain on a drivetrain (for instance a 9-speed chain on a 10-speed drive-train). Since the main difference between chains is width, how can your drop-stop chainrings work equally well on 9-speed, 10-speed, and 11-speed chains? Do some chain types work better than others?
> 
> I would assume that an 11-speed chain would be the least likely to fall off because its the narrowest. If your chainrings work equally well for different chains, does that mean that the XX1 chainrings would work for a 10-speed chain? Also, what is the difference between your chainrings and Srams 1X11 chainrings? Are Sram's any different because they're designed for only an 11-speed chain?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions, I'm just curious.


Wolftooth can chime in, however my understanding is 9,10, and 11 speed chains only differ in their outer width. The inner width is the same, so in terms of a chain staying on a chainring all should be equal.

A 9 speed chain won't work well with a 10 speed cassette since the spacing is setup for the outer width of a 10 speed chain. Same issue for using a 10 speed chain on an 11 speed drivetrain. However, in terms of a single chainring there's no front shifting so the outer width of the chain should not matter.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

I got my WT 42t cog yesterday and will be installing it this evening.. I'm impressed that it arrived less than a week after getting the shipping confirmation.


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## Tourendo (Jan 22, 2004)

Installed the WT 42t cog on my Nomad today. It shifts really decent except for the hesitation going up from the 15t to 19t. Not quite as smooth as the 11-36, but still more than acceptable performance . No issues backpedalling, 36 to 42 shift is very good.

Setup is- new XT M786 rear derailler, mid cage
- new XT chain with KMC connector
- Raceface 30t NW on Shimano LX hollowtech cranks
- newish Jagwire Ripcord housing and cables


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## m5161968 (Jan 26, 2013)

I got my gears two days after posting about delivery time, heck of a lot faster than the weeks suggested. Now to find time to put them on, can't wait


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

I'm about to order an xx1 168q crankset for my stumpjumper evo ht. Its bb30. Which direct mount ring will I need?


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## Bighec (Apr 1, 2009)

^^^Measure the spacer on your spindle. That's the best way to figure out which ring to buy. WTC has a photo of which ring to buy depending on your spacer on their website.


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

Was hoping to order both at the same time as I don't have the cranks yet.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Basically unless you buy a take off from crank that isn't branded as a XO or XX than it will be a standard BB30. I bought a "XO" that just says SRAM on it and it has the smaller spacer and takes the other Wolftooth


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## Bighec (Apr 1, 2009)

I have SRAM S1400 cranks (I think they are X7 equivalent). Manufacturer only cranks that came on my Cdale. I have a BB30 bottom bracket but had to run a GXP DM from WTC.


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## Aszors (Dec 11, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> I see some rumblings around about 40t cogs for those that want something a little less than 42t...
> I have to think that a small nimble company with a local supply chain could get something like this going pretty quickly.
> I guess we will all know in a few weeks


This is great news! I would take 2!!!! I have been converting both all mountain and fatbike into 1x set ups, and debating the 40T from the other guys! But as a machinist, your quality looks superb!


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I checked the shift ramp alignment on my 16T cog taken from a XT 11-32 cassette and installed in my XT 11-36. It didn't line up.

I dremeled out a notch to allow me to rotate it into alignment. After that and also replacing the hanger/dropouts, and a bit of cable and b tension adjustment, I finally have it shifting up and down all gears. A small amount of hesitation on the way up sometimes but totally acceptable. This is with an XT mech with the clutch on and an XT shifter.

Next thing I'm doing, is moving the BB spacer (XT 2X crankset) to the non drive side to try to improve back pedaling in the 42 cog.


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

Just to Dumb it down. I ordered these cranks in q factor 168. SRAM XX1 BB30 Crankset - Normal Shipping Ground
I should order this ring?
Direct Mount for SRAM BB30 Short Spindle Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Fastblack said:


> Just to Dumb it down. I ordered these cranks in q factor 168. SRAM XX1 BB30 Crankset - Normal Shipping Ground
> I should order this ring?
> Direct Mount for SRAM BB30 Short Spindle Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


I don't think that is the one you want for that crank, but the one you want I am not seeing on their site so I would call them in the mornings.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## spicolli1976 (Jun 30, 2007)

One ride in and couldn't be happier. 30t chainring and GC 42......simple, quiet, awesome!!!


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## CommuterBoy (Oct 4, 2007)

Loving the simplicity! 34 up front.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Here are some replies to questions out there:

On the SDMs for BB30 (using a BB30 short spindle vs GXP/long spindle) the last picture on either product page shows how to figure out what you need. 

MaxMoab asked about 9spd chains. The narrow links are approximately the same (inner plate spacing). However the wide links on 9spd chains are .7+ mm wider, which is a lot! Because of that the 9 speed chains don't fit the rings very well and have reduced chain retention. Luckly for all you 9 speed users, the 10 spd chains shift well on a 9spd drivetrain. I have this on one of my personal bikes.

-Brendan


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

For any bodies information. I received my bb30 xx1 and it is indeed short spindle. Still waiting on my chainring, luckily I won't have to send it back.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Betzel (Aug 29, 2009)

Put a S1400 SRAM crank and a 26t Wolftooth together (weight in grams):


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

anno88 said:


> Got my WT Giant Cog today.
> 
> Installed it as per instructions and the shifting is terrible. I have been tuning my gears for decades so know what I am doing but cannot get the shifting to perform adequately with the GC installed. Have emailed WT about this so we'll see what they suggest.
> 
> ...


^this.

I installed mine this week, SLX shadow + der, XT shifters, RF NW 30T ring, and am thoroughly underwhelmed with the shifting performance, even in the stand. I am resisting the urge to remove it before taking it on the trails, but fear my ride is going to be consumed with ghost shifts, lags going up and down the cassette, etc. The shifting on the smaller cogs is actually the worst part of it, I am sure it's a b-tension issue since its backed out so far but it's just not acceptable.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> ^this.
> 
> I installed mine this week, SLX shadow + der, XT shifters, RF NW 30T ring, and am thoroughly underwhelmed with the shifting performance, even in the stand. I am resisting the urge to remove it before taking it on the trails, but fear my ride is going to be consumed with ghost shifts, lags going up and down the cassette, etc. The shifting on the smaller cogs is actually the worst part of it, I am sure it's a b-tension issue since its backed out so far but it's just not acceptable.


*What derailleur are you using? for me i couldn't get my XTR dialed in for nothing thought i was losing it, " been wrenching bikes all my life" it definitely has to do with the amount of chainwrap on lower cogs while Sram derailleurs have plenty of wrap even with b screw adjusted out, I'm saving up to switch out to XO.*


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

Rakuman said:


> *What derailleur are you using? for me i couldn't get my XTR dialed in for nothing thought i was losing it, " been wrenching bikes all my life" it definitely has to do with the amount of chainwrap on lower cogs while Sram derailleurs have plenty of wrap even with b screw adjusted out, I'm saving up to switch out to XO.*


SLX Shadow Plus mid-cage. Unfortunately the WT cog is shimano or sram specific, the last thing I am willing to do is swap my shifters, der, cassette and a sram WT GC cog just to make it shift "better"...at that point investment wise you're getting close to just converting to 1x11 with the proper components. Really disappointed in this conversion so far, I'll either just go back to 11-36 and save up for 1x11 (or wait for another round of trickle-down this year) OR just finally be done jacking with all of the shifty bits and go back to SS.


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## SylentK (Aug 9, 2004)

Hmmm...not sure what's going on with you guys. 

I just converted to a 30t front and 42gc in back, both from WTC. Shifting is awesome. 

More deets:

-New XT cogset
-New XT chain
-New shifter cable/housing
-XTR der w/ clutch, using stock b-screw
-XT shifter

*Check rear der alignment. Buy new replaceable der hanger if necessary. 
*Chain is correct length
*Check chain line. Maybe move chainring/crankset in?

I'm experiencing no real noticeable lags in shifting up/down. Save for that area where I took out the 17t cog. Maybe a nano-second lag, but that's about it. My shifting is pretty much perfect. 

Hope this helps!


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

SylentK said:


> *Check rear der alignment. Buy new replaceable der hanger if necessary.
> *Chain is correct length
> *Check chain line. Maybe move chainring/crankset in?


*Check rear der alignment. Buy new replaceable der hanger if necessary. - *brand new frame, no chance its whacked*
*Chain is correct length - *yep, as per their instructions*
*Check chain line. Maybe move chainring/crankset in? *was flawless with the same ring & 11-36 cassette, chainline is as good as its going to get*

It's all due to the b-screw issue, the smaller cogs experience significant lag due to the distance of the pulley from them. At this point I am really thinking I threw away $100 and should have just HTFU and gotten stronger.


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## SylentK (Aug 9, 2004)

Well I am doing all shimano, like you, but have no b screw issue. Shifting is fine in small cogs. 

Did you install new shifter housing and cable?

How old is the cogset? How old is chain? I'm assuming its fine. But you do know of the general drivetrain rule of thumb? That is if you replace anything in your drive train (cogs, chain, chainring), you should replace ALL of your drivetrain. With exceptions, of course.

In my experience, ghost shifts and lags going up/down is usually a cable/housing issue.


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

Anyone try a non-floating G pulley?


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## dirtbyte (Aug 23, 2011)

blaklabl said:


> At this point I am really thinking I threw away $100 and should have just HTFU and gotten stronger.


This is what I did, but I spent the $100 on beer.


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

SylentK said:


> Well I am doing all shimano, like you, but have no b screw issue. Shifting is fine in small cogs.
> 
> Did you install new shifter housing and cable?
> 
> ...


It is new cable and housing, I switched to XT shifters at the same time from SLX. The cogs and chain are both within 6 months, and I am a 1x per week type of guy (unfortunately)...and the shifting issue isn't on the "new cog" its on the smaller ones and the same chain they were used with before and were working fine.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Well, if their products are as good as their customer service, I'm gonna be really happy. I ordered a GC cog from their website last night about 11pm. I received the shipping confirmation email this morning at 10 am! Less than 12 (night time) hours from ordered to shipped is pretty good IMO.
I'm seriously thinking of getting one of their narrow/wide chainrings even though it's a lot more expensive. I'm all for supporting a U.S. based company selling products manufactured here too, especially when their service is that good.


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

Got the silver GC today and had it installed at my LBs. No issues and it works killer. 

















Sent from my wireless communication apparatus


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## titusbro (Oct 15, 2004)

blaklabl said:


> It is new cable and housing, I switched to XT shifters at the same time from SLX. The cogs and chain are both within 6 months, and I am a 1x per week type of guy (unfortunately)...and the shifting issue isn't on the "new cog" its on the smaller ones and the same chain they were used with before and were working fine.


Hey Eric -

I 'just' set up a WT-42T (Shimano) with a SLX clutch, XT cassette, and a 30T RF N/W on XT cranks for a friend on Wednesday - shifts beautifully. Mark and I will be out @PMP (40th st. lot) @ 6:30 tomorrow morning. I'm running the 1-Up 42T/RF 30T and I'm pretty darn happy with my setup too. Let's chat soon...

Pat


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

XX1 and BB30 Wolf Ring


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## blaklabl (Mar 14, 2011)

titusbro said:


> Hey Eric -
> 
> I 'just' set up a WT-42T (Shimano) with a SLX clutch, XT cassette, and a 30T RF N/W on XT cranks for a friend on Wednesday - shifts beautifully. Mark and I will be out @PMP (40th st. lot) @ 6:30 tomorrow morning. I'm running the 1-Up 42T/RF 30T and I'm pretty darn happy with my setup too. Let's chat soon...
> 
> Pat


Hey Pat, thanks for chiming in - I'm glad to hear you got it working, I am going to run out to Brown's Ranch tomorrow and give it a real trail test. I have been unable to do much more than workstand/driveway test until today, and it actually seemed to shift better when I got it out for a little bit longer (on the road). I tweaked the b-screw a bit today to tighten up the shifting and seemed to help a bit, some dirt time will let me know if I got it dialed or not. I will let you know, I may have you look at it too if it still isn't. Hope you guys had a good ride today, way too early for my blood


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## Jim_D. (May 5, 2011)

*SRAM 42T GC with x9*

Upgraded, and I mean upgraded, to 1x10 last year using RF NW 30T. Decided to add the WT 42T this month after considering all of the climbing in store for me at the Whiskey. Found out after purchasing the SRAM 42T that my cassette was a Shimano SLX (not compatable) Had to order an SRAM x9 cassette. Was going to install tonight. Now after reading this thread and the instructions that my 2011 X9 (non-clutch) drive train is not recommended. Sooooooooooooooo. I guess I'm about to fork out some more money on a new X9 clutch drivetrain. Has anyone used the 42T on an older x9 (non-clutch)?

I think I'm going to try and make it work, but will remove it if I cannot.

Thoughts anyone?


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

chiito said:


> Upgraded, and I mean upgraded, to 1x10 last year using RF NW 30T. Decided to add the WT 42T this month after considering all of the climbing in store for me at the Whiskey. Found out after purchasing the SRAM 42T that my cassette was a Shimano SLX (not compatable) Had to order an SRAM x9 cassette. Was going to install tonight. Now after reading this thread and the instructions that my 2011 X9 (non-clutch) drive train is not recommended. Sooooooooooooooo. I guess I'm about to fork out some more money on a new X9 clutch drivetrain. Has anyone used the 42T on an older x9 (non-clutch)?
> 
> I think I'm going to try and make it work, but will remove it if I cannot.
> 
> Thoughts anyone?


I tried to setup a mbtools stainless 41T cog on a buddies Firebird with an older Sram del. (9sp though) and it would shift up with some trouble BUT I could not get it to shift down.
The cage next to the upper jockey wheel would get hung up on the 41T ring. I would have to remove the wheel to get it undone. 
You could try it on your setup to see if the WT42 works better. Good Luck!

Does anyone know if the 40T could work on a 9sp. setup. I do have thin shims to adjust the spacing!


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## Jim_D. (May 5, 2011)

*update...*



chiito said:


> Upgraded, and I mean upgraded, to 1x10 last year using RF NW 30T. Decided to add the WT 42T this month after considering all of the climbing in store for me at the Whiskey. Found out after purchasing the SRAM 42T that my cassette was a Shimano SLX (not compatable) Had to order an SRAM x9 cassette. Was going to install tonight. Now after reading this thread and the instructions that my 2011 X9 (non-clutch) drive train is not recommended. Sooooooooooooooo. I guess I'm about to fork out some more money on a new X9 clutch drivetrain. Has anyone used the 42T on an older x9 (non-clutch)?
> 
> I think I'm going to try and make it work, but will remove it if I cannot.
> 
> Thoughts anyone?


Just finished installing. Really easy install Btw. Screw cranked all the way in and had to do a little tuning with shifting but it works. It's a little slow shifting down to the 11t. I'm going to run it like this for a few rides and see how it goes.


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

Critiques of shifting with GC conversions should be related to XX1/XO1, not only the original 10x / 9x drivetrain. I use N/W rings on my Shimano 1x9 bike and X01 bike and I've had Shimano 2x10. The shifting of X01 is nothing special and easily bested by Shimano for smoothness and consistency, but I don't know how the comparison would hold with equal gear range - GC added to Shimano cassette. Anyone have both XX1 and GC conversion?


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Most would not be able to critique compared to XX1. Everyone can compare to their old system...


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

NordieBoy said:


> Most would not be able to critique compared to XX1. Everyone can compare to their old system...


This time last year I was running a eBay mtbtools 41t cog on with a medium cage XT+ derailuer....

Never had a problem with the way it shifted...it wasn't as crisp as a stock XT 11-36 cassette but it was close, why...

I was lucky enough to have some spare 9/10spd Shimano cassettes that I could bust up and pinch a cog or cog group from along with a number of different cassette spacers I'd collected over the years.

With trial and error I made it work very well and I repeated it all over on a 2nd bike so it was no fluke.

No matter whos GC you are running you have to work on your cassette and fiddle with things.....

My final cassette was a stock XT 10spd 11-36t cassettes 7 gears (ie. 1-7) the last 3 were a GC and two cogs from a SLX/LX.....

As to XX1 comparison, well I won't be go back to 10spd.....the range in a simple 1x setup has won me...and I was a Shimano fan!!!

Shifting is like any other set up I've run and all dependant on how good a mechanic you are to tune the system.

There's no black magic involved...


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

*Safe chainring spacer size? Weird chainline?*

First, I have a somewhat strange drivetrain setup. 2013 Stumpjumper FSR w/ 73mm BB shell, PF30 BB, SLX cranks 2x10 with Wheels Mfg PF30 adapters now converted to 32t 1x10, SRAM X9 medium cage Type 2 RD, SRAM 11-36 cassette on a Stan's Arch EX wheel with a GC42 just installed. It's shifting fine on the stand, but I didn't like the chainline. Too far to the outside. I put some 5mm spacers on the chainring to move it inwards and it's better, but am I pushing my luck to have spacers that large between the ring and crank spider?. Seems like there could be a lot of shear force on the chainring bolts, but maybe it's not enough to be concerned about.

Maybe it's OCD or something, but I wanted to move the chainline in a little bit more and had enough clearance between the drive side crank and the chainstay. I have a lathe and some Delrin, so I made a different PF30 adapter for that side that moved the crank in another 3.5mm on the drive side and added a 3mm spacer on the non-drive side. The chainline is centered on the cassette now (that's how it should be, right?), but the chainline measures 42mm. From the specs I found, a SRAM BB30 1x11 crank should have a 49mm chainline. Is my 42mm chainline an issue or is it a case of if it's not broke, don't fix it? I've got plenty of clearance all around, and if you don't count the thickness of the Spec. chain hanger bracket, the crank end to chainstay clearance is about equal on each side with the crankset moved over 3.5mm.

Would I be better off switching to a 1x crankset or just run the SLX with the 5mm spacers and be done with it. I plan to get a new Wolf Tooth chainring, but I'm going to ride this setup first to see if I want to stick with 32t or change to a different size.

Sorry for all the questions, but my searching didn't find answers to most of these and I want to make sure I'm not heading off in a weird direction with this.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

The chainline on my 2011 Stumpy hard tail is lined up on 6th gear.
With 2mm spacers on the crank arms, the 32t ring is about 1mm from the chainstay.

Shifts and runs nicely.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Where did u get the spacers?


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I have a little drawer full of old chainring bolts and spacers, so that's not much help for you, but WTC and Wheels Mfg sell them. The BB spacers came with the Wheel Mfg. PF30 conversion kit.


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## Stylomat (Aug 19, 2007)

Hello,

is there someone here that rides a wolftooth sram spiderless chainring and the special bashguard for this ring? 

Riding now with a 32t absoluteblack chainring and csixx xc guide, good set up. But now I have x01 on the bike, I don't use the 10t sprocket on the cassette. So was thinking to switch to 30t and then with a bash, the bash just in case, because I also use my bike for dh/jumping/freeriding and with the enduro events coming up here in europe, a rock hits your bike/chainring faster as you think. It's also for a piece of mind.


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

Well...I now have some experience with the 42t Wolftooth cog for the Shimano XT cassette and a medium cage XT plus derailleur. 

The set up does work with some major drawbacks. First issue is the chain rolls down a gear off of the 42t cog with the slightest backpedal. This is especially frustrating when setting your pedal position to start up a steep hill. The chain line is as good as it gets with no spacers installed on the xt crank/king BB and narrow wide 34t ring. I currently do not see a way to fix this issue besides maybe going to a long cage derailleur. (not going to happen)

Second issue is also B-screw tension related. Since the tension on the system so high, any debris that gets between the chain and the cassette causes instant skipping or jumping. With standard 11-36 cassette and 32 front ring and proper b-tension this was never an issue with small debris.

I have spent some time with tuning and all of the parts except for the derailleur are new. I am glad I tried this, but it is not going to work out in my case. I wanted to pass this info along for anyone that is planning to do this with the Shimano cog and a mid cage.

EDIT: What I am trying to say is, don't get too exited about this being a solution. It may work great for you.


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

bubba13 said:


> Well...I now have some experience with the 42t Wolftooth cog for the Shimano XT cassette and a medium cage XT plus derailleur.
> 
> The set up does work with some major drawbacks. First issue is the chain rolls down a gear off of the 42t cog with the slightest backpedal. This is especially frustrating when setting your pedal position to start up a steep hill. The chain line is as good as it gets with no spacers installed on the xt crank/king BB and narrow wide 34t ring. I currently do not see a way to fix this issue besides maybe going to a long cage derailleur. (not going to happen)
> 
> ...


I have a similar setup but having much better luck. In my case I'm running a SRAM GXS direct mount 28T Wolftooth front ring but otherwise no difference (XT 11-36 cassette, XT Shadow+ mid-cage, XT shifter). I only have 2 rides on it but so far the shifting is more than acceptable and not having the skipping or backpedal issues. The XT cassette is new (switched from a SRAM 1070), decided to run a fresh cable and housing and had to re-adjust the hi/low screws but otherwise the rest of the drivetrain was used with no other changes required.


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## axl886 (Oct 15, 2012)

Really weird, but on my 2011 Trance X (stock long cage XT rear dee), when at the smallest cog position, the arm of the derailleur which holds the bolt contacts the GC. 

Not sure why this is so?

ADD: Just got a XT M786 rear dee (shadow+, med cage) and it solves the problem. Just wanna provide a headsup to anybody with the same config, and curious about it.


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

I believe there is a compatibility issue on old rd's..there is a write up on the WT website

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## axl886 (Oct 15, 2012)

bosbik said:


> I believe there is a compatibility issue on old rd's..there is a write up on the WT website


I believe the warning only applies to SRAM dees. 

-> "It works with any Shimano 10-speed and 2012 or newer SRAM 10-speed rear derailleurs. the GC is not compatible with 2011 or older SRAM rear derailleurs."


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## bosbik (Aug 29, 2011)

I stand corrected...looking at you pic..you hanger looks crooked..

Sent from my GT-B5330 using Tapatalk


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Motivated said:


> The shifting of X01 is nothing special and easily bested by Shimano for smoothness and consistency, but I don't know how the comparison would hold with equal gear range - GC added to Shimano cassette. Anyone have both XX1 and GC conversion?


Really? I have found the shifting of my X01 superior to the X0 and XT level it replaced (sorry, I am unable to compare it to XTR as I have not spent enough time on XTR equipped bikes).


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

Stylomat said:


> Hello,
> 
> is there someone here that rides a wolftooth sram spiderless chainring and the special bashguard for this ring?


Been using a wolftooth direct mount chainring with the wolftooth bashguard for a while now. Great product, easily integrates together.

If you are a racer that will be changing the chainring size on a semi-frequent basis that may get expensive as the bash guards have 2/3 different sizes depending on the ring it attaches to.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

006_007 said:


> If you are a racer that will be changing the chainring size on a semi-frequent basis that may get expensive as the bash guards have 2/3 different sizes depending on the ring it attaches to.


But the biggest one would work for all sizes wouldn't it?


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

006_007 said:


> Really? I have found the shifting of my X01 superior to the X0 and XT level it replaced (sorry, I am unable to compare it to XTR as I have not spent enough time on XTR equipped bikes).


Really. I find X01 shifter mechanism to be crude and clunky. With XT I can 'feel' the cable through the mechanism and like that feedback. The X01 cassette is OK, but my Shimano cassette is more refined. The X01 RD is a nice piece, but I prefer the bit more damped Shimano RD. Overall the timing of shifts on X01 are not consistent - sometimes it's really rapid, sometimes slower so it's hard to time the pause in power to the pedals. With Shimano I can really feel what's going on, so it's natural to time pedaling with shifting. I'm a loooong time Shimano user, and can say I'm still adapting to X01, but still I find the Shimano parts to simply be higher quality or more refined.

Sorry for the off topic post.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Introducing GC's little brother, GC40: 40T GC cog for Shimano ? wolftoothcomponents.com

Shimano Black will be on presale for now and shipping in the next 2 weeks (first batch is off the mill already). We will add colors and SRAM as we ramp production over the next few weeks. ETA on the first SRAM GC40s is ~ 2.5 weeks.


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## rave81 (Mar 1, 2013)

I installed the 42T gc today. I encountered some problems with my XTR shadow+ der. the screw for the b tension is too short. What I did I changed to Saint shadow+. It shifting smoothly. I wish they provide extra b tension for free also drop the price, because it is too expensive.








Im thinking to change my 30T to 34T blackspire narrow wide, since im using a Saint shadow+, do you think this will be a problem? Also im using a 29er, which is more suitable 32T or 34T, I mainly climb very techy trails also I like bombarding the descent.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

my WT GC42 setup had its initial run today and.. shifting was smooth! back-pedaling while at 42T caused it to go down a gear but nothing as significant as when it was on the stand (did not even notice it was down a gear).. CAVEAT.. this was done on paved roads... will update as soon as it sees action on the trails..


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Finished the 1x10 conversion today with a WT 32t Drop Stop ring and went for a test ride with great results. The shift to 42t is smooth, much better than the 15t to 19t, but I was expecting the 15 to 19 bobble. It's still workable so I won't worry about that. No problem with back pedaling on the 42t, but I've got the chainline moved way over to about 42mm. That leaves the chain centered mid cassette and seems to work just fine. I've got enough drive side crank clearance and plenty of chainring clearance, so no issues there. I only had to put about 1 1/2 turns on the B screw, so there's plenty of range left there too. My only concern is whether I should have gone with a 30t instead of the 32t, but I've been running a 32t with an 11-36 cassette without having to drop to the 22t ring for most of my riding, so it should be ok.

Now if the *#$% snow and ice will finish melting and the trails dry out some, I'll be able to hang the road bike back in the pole barn and get to the fun riding.

All in all, I'm really impressed with the WT stuff and am glad to finally go to a 1x setup without having to spend $1k to get there. After riding for 25+ years, it's gonna seem weird to not have a shifter on the left side of the bars, but I'll adjust. Didn't use it much anyway.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

ric426 said:


> Finished the 1x10 conversion today with a WT 32t Drop Stop ring and went for a test ride with great results. The shift to 42t is smooth, much better than the 15t to 19t, but I was expecting the 15 to 19 bobble. It's still workable so I won't worry about that. No problem with back pedaling on the 42t, but I've got the chainline moved way over to about 42mm. That leaves the chain centered mid cassette and seems to work just fine. I've got enough drive side crank clearance and plenty of chainring clearance, so no issues there. I only had to put about 1 1/2 turns on the B screw, so there's plenty of range left there too. My only concern is whether I should have gone with a 30t instead of the 32t, but I've been running a 32t with an 11-36 cassette without having to drop to the 22t ring for most of my riding, so it should be ok.
> 
> Now if the *#$% snow and ice will finish melting and the trails dry out some, I'll be able to hang the road bike back in the pole barn and get to the fun riding.
> 
> All in all, I'm really impressed with the WT stuff and am glad to finally go to a 1x setup without having to spend $1k to get there. After riding for 25+ years, it's gonna seem weird to not have a shifter on the left side of the bars, but I'll adjust. Didn't use it much anyway.


do you have a 3x10 crank? i am assuming your 32T chainring is in the middle? just wanted to ask how you adjusted your chainline as this would probably fix my "back pedaling" problem right now.

thanks


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

bapski said:


> do you have a 3x10 crank? i am assuming your 32T chainring is in the middle? just wanted to ask how you adjusted your chainline as this would probably fix my "back pedaling" problem right now.
> 
> thanks


I started with an SLX 2x10 crank, which has the outer ring in effectively the same place as the middle ring on a triple. My bike ('13 SJ FSR Comp 29) came with a PF-30 BB so I had to get a Wheels Mfg. adapter kit to use the 24mm crank spindle with the 30mm BB. The main adapter fittings are Delrin pieces that are essentially a sleeve to fill the 24 to 30 mm gap with a cone to space the crank out from the BB about 10mm to get the standard 49-51mm chainline. I looked at the gap between the right crank arm and chainstay and figure I could move the crank over about 4mm and still have enough gap there. I was going to trim that much from the adapter, but I have a lathe so I made a similar piece with a cone that's 4mm shorter so I'd still have the original piece in case i needed to go back.

That got me part way to where I wanted the chainline to be. Since there was still plenty of clearance between the chainring and chainstay I also got longer chainring bolts and added 5mm spacers between the chainring and crank spider.

Doing those 2 things moved the chainring inwards 9-10mm and everything is good so far. If you have enough clearance to move the chainring inwards, the spacers may be enough to solve your problem. I just did the adapter mod because I have the equipment to try it and I can't leave well enough alone. I don't anticipate any problems with the setup and at some point I may see what i can do to improve the 15 to 19t shift, just because I like to tinker with this stuff.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

ric426 said:


> I started with an SLX 2x10 crank, which has the outer ring in effectively the same place as the middle ring on a triple. My bike ('13 SJ FSR Comp 29) came with a PF-30 BB so I had to get a Wheels Mfg. adapter kit to use the 24mm crank spindle with the 30mm BB. The main adapter fittings are Delrin pieces that are essentially a sleeve to fill the 24 to 30 mm gap with a cone to space the crank out from the BB about 10mm to get the standard 49-51mm chainline. I looked at the gap between the right crank arm and chainstay and figure I could move the crank over about 4mm and still have enough gap there. I was going to trim that much from the adapter, but I have a lathe so I made a similar piece with a cone that's 4mm shorter so I'd still have the original piece in case i needed to go back.
> 
> That got me part way to where I wanted the chainline to be. Since there was still plenty of clearance between the chainring and chainstay I also got longer chainring bolts and added 5mm spacers between the chainring and crank spider.
> 
> Doing those 2 things moved the chainring inwards 9-10mm and everything is good so far. If you have enough clearance to move the chainring inwards, the spacers may be enough to solve your problem. I just did the adapter mod because I have the equipment to try it and I can't leave well enough alone. I don't anticipate any problems with the setup and at some point I may see what i can do to improve the 15 to 19t shift, just because I like to tinker with this stuff.


i did not think it'll take that much to do.. oh well, as soon as i get to ride my setup on the trail i would not know how big (if any) of a problem i have.

thanks anyways..


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I'm trying to get the Spider off my X1 crank to install my WT direct mount ring, and T25 torx seems really loose and will strip the bolt heads, and T27 is too big. I tried 2 different T25 bits with the same result. Do I just happen to have 2 bad bits? Any suggestions?


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## grenspot (Feb 17, 2011)

*Happy with a Wolf Tooth 36T and standard non-cluth X0 derailleur*

Like most of you I wanted to try 1x10 without shilling out for XX1 or X01...$79 later I have a 36T WT ring (120BCD, XX crankset) mated to an 11-36 cassette (I live in Kentucky and most of my riding is rolling hills to flat-ish). My rear derailleur is a non-clutch mid-cage X0...WORKS GREAT!!! No drops in the riding I have done to date (although I am still putting it through its paces). A little chain slap, but a lot less than with my old 2x10 setup. This thing is amazing. I didn't believe it would work, but it does. Clutch would probably get rid of the minimal chain slap, but that can wait until I feel like laying out the cash or when my standard X0 dies an untimely death. My bike is smoother, quieter and tighter than it has ever been...it has lost some weight and I don't feel like I am missing any vital gear ratios. Go buy one of these today!


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

smilinsteve said:


> I'm trying to get the Spider off my X1 crank to install my WT direct mount ring, and T25 torx seems really loose and will strip the bolt heads, and T27 is too big. I tried 2 different T25 bits with the same result. Do I just happen to have 2 bad bits? Any suggestions?


Same problem for me and at the moment no solution. I'll buy a new T25 wrench and hope for the best.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Motivated said:


> Same problem for me and at the moment no solution. I'll buy a new T25 wrench and hope for the best.


That's funny. 
I remembered I had a 3rd T25 wrench in my pack and this one seemed to be a good fit. But, they put those friggin bolts in so damn tight, I think I stripped them anyway. I will also be heading to the hardware store for a better wrench, but if that fails I think I will need to use a bolt extractor.

There is hardly any room to work with those bolts, and a small T25 wrench just doesn't have the leverage you need.

If you didn't strip yours out yet, I would try a torx bit on a long handle rachet to give you the leverage. Might even have to clamp down the crank. Or, maybe a drill with a long extension so you could square it up above the end of the axle.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I used a bit with a long extension and a 1/4 rachet, came right out


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

If it's stripped, grab a dremmel tool and notch a standard screw driver or philips screw driver notch into the head of the torx bolt and extract it that way. Had to do that on other bikes parts in the past, but I don't know how tight those spider bolts are.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

A long torx wrench is a good idea, particularly for the reinstall. With a short wrench, one is more likely to twist or tilt the screw which can lead to cross threading. 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Jeepnut22 said:


> If it's stripped, grab a dremmel tool and notch a standard screw driver or philips screw driver notch into the head of the torx bolt and extract it that way. Had to do that on other bikes parts in the past, but I don't know how tight those spider bolts are.


I'm going to try that, but I'm afraid a slot might not provide enough bite. These bolts are tight!


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## Jeepnut22 (Jul 16, 2008)

smilinsteve said:


> I'm going to try that, but I'm afraid a slot might not provide enough bite. These bolts are tight!


Right, that would be my main concern.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

I saw a youtube video where a guy drills out a stripped allen head bolt with a bit slightly smaller than a Torx bit, then he hammers the Torx bit into the hole and gets the bolt out. 
I might be able to widen the torx hole just enough to hammer the T27 bit into it.


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## BShow (Jun 15, 2006)

You can get a set of extractor bits from harbor freight and they cost next to nothing. They''re not great, but make short work of any effed up hardware on a bike.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

dirtrider76 said:


> I used a bit with a long extension and a 1/4 rachet, came right out


This worked for me (after a bought a bunch of extractor bits and dremmel cutoff wheels and and other junk I didn't even need.

Its really important to be able to get exactly perpendicular on the bolt head, so the extension helps a lot, and being able to put a strong downward force on the head of the ratchet helps too. It seems they used some kind of locktite on the bolts because they felt snug the whole way coming out.


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## kopavi (Jan 11, 2013)

*30T 1x9 conversion*

Performed the Wolf Tooth 30T 1x9 conversion today with the help of an experienced friend who made it much easier. All went well and everything was done in about an hour and 1/2.

This new drivetrain replaced a 22/32/44 Shimano XT setup with an 11/34 cassette remaining on the rear. Used a new Shimano HG95 10 speed chain. The old chainrings came off without a hitch.

The initial (very short) test ride went well and the chain fit firmly with only a slight adjustment needed to the rear derailleur. I do not have a newer clutch derailleur just an older Shimano SLX. Also no chainguide was added.

Rode the new setup for nearly 3 hours and was happy with the performance and chain stability. Found out I had routed the chain incorrectly on my Shimano SLX derailleur after the ride. This slight modification should not impact the performance.

Was able to pedal all but one hill in my 1500 feet of climbing. There were a few challenging sections where I may have been better off with lower gearing.

My decision to go 1x9 with existing components was purely financial. To add an Shimano XT 10 speed rear derailleur, shifter and cassette along with a WT 42 would have set me back 4 Benjamins instead of 1. As my components wear out, I'll investigate newer components that will match my riding.

Ordered the 30T on Friday and had it on Monday (MN to AZ) very fast shipping. Brendan @WT indicated it would bolt right on using the existing bolts from my Shimano and he was correct. Good service and fast shipping from WT.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

*Keep the Spec. Dangler chain guide or not bother?*

Any opinions on whether I really need the Dangler chain guide on a Stumpy FSR 29 if I've got a Drop Stop chainring and a clutch type RD? I suppose it's not causing a problem, but it's just another place to collect mud & crud.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Got my first offroad ride in today and the shifting was pretty good. My bike got a lot heavier over the winter though. At one point I was shifting back and forth between the 15t and 19t cog because the 19t was too easy and the 15t was harder than my legs were ready for. I may try taking out the 15t and putting the 17t back in, but I'll wait until after I change chainrings to see if I need to experiment more with the cassette.

I now realize that I was a little over confident in choosing a 32t and should have gone with a 30t like most who have done the conversion. I rode with a 32t with a 2x10 and the stock 11-36 last season and rarely used the 22t, but I think I'm going to want a little lower gearing than the 32t-42t gearing gives me.

Can anyone tell me if the threaded sections of the 30t rings are machined out of the billet and are part of the rings or are they separate pieces that are swaged on?


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## kopavi (Jan 11, 2013)

I am running a non-clutch RD and experienced no problems over a variety of trails. Since you have a clutch type RD your chain stability should be even higher. It all depends on the terrain you ride on. Give it a few more rides in various gears and over some technical areas. If you don't experience and chain issues don't bother with a chain guide.



ric426 said:


> Any opinions on whether I really need the Dangler chain guide on a Stumpy FSR 29 if I've got a Drop Stop chainring and a clutch type RD? I suppose it's not causing a problem, but it's just another place to collect mud & crud.


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## kopavi (Jan 11, 2013)

I used this gear calculator to plug in my existing and modified setups:
Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator

When I rode using my front 22 chainring I found I very seldom went to my largest 34T in the rear. Using the link above allows you to visualize the equivalent gearing for your exact setup and tire size compared to your proposed setup. Before converting, I rode only going as low as my proposed setup would provide. This helped me make the decision and the transition was much easier.

Attempt a few more rides with your existing setup. As you return to biking shape you may find your setup is fine.



ric426 said:


> I now realize that I was a little over confident in choosing a 32t and should have gone with a 30t like most who have done the conversion. I rode with a 32t with a 2x10 and the stock 11-36 last season and rarely used the 22t, but I think I'm going to want a little lower gearing than the 32t-42t gearing gives me.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Need a 53t for when cx1 comes out--I'd love to go 1x11 with Force22!

Or something at least 48t @ 130BCD. Come on. 11-32 WiFli is just dying to be paired with a narrow-wide chainring on the road. Can't believe that nobody wants to address this potential market--I believe the 46t ring is always sold out--take a hint!


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

*Made a mongrel cassette for gear range with no big jumps in it*

After doing the GC42 SRAM conversion I tried the SRAM 11-36 cassette without the 17t and without the 15t and wasn't satisfied with either. I guess I've got a bit of mechanical OCD.

I don't have a SRAM cassette with a 16t cog, but I found a an old Shimano CS-HG61 9 speed cassette that's 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36. If I used the first 6 Shimano cogs, the next 3 SRAM cogs and the WT GC42 I could have a 12-42 cassette with no strange jumps in it. The steps would be 2-2-2-3-3-4-4-4-6 instead of 2-4-2-3-3-4-4-4-6 and I'd only be sacrificing a little bit of top speed that I never use.

The big gotcha is that the 9 speed cogs and spacers are thicker than the 10 speed ones, so I'd have to do some customizing to make everything fit and shift properly. I calculated the spacer sizes I'd need with the 9sp Shimano cogs (.088") and the step from Shimano to SRAM (.091") and got busy on the lathe. The first test fitting showed the spacers were still too thick, so I made sets of spacers in several sizes and started the trial and error process to find the right size spacers.

After making and testing several different sizes I found that .080" spacers were slightly too thick and .075" were slightly too thin. I didn't expect that just a few thousands of an inch would make the difference between clean shifting and not shifting worth a darn. With my cheap lathe it was hard enough to get consistent (+/- .002") results, but now i needed to cut that tolerance in half and try for .0775. The scrap pile got bigger, but eventually I got a few the exact right size and the shifting is pretty good on the stand. The cable adjustment is more critical to get rattle free running and clean shifting though.

I still need to mill off some more of the built in steel spacer on the 12t cog to get the 12t to 14t shift more consistent, but I've got it all working well enough on the stand that I'm ready to try it on the trail. I don't recommend this mod unless you've got the machinery, materials and lots of time, but I wanted to see if I could pull it off. If it doesn't work as well as I'd hoped I can always go back the SRAM/GC42, but so far it looks promising. If anyone is interested I'll report back on the results.


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## Motivated (Jan 13, 2004)

chomxxo said:


> Need a 53t for when cx1 comes out--I'd love to go 1x11 with Force22!
> 
> Or something at least 48t @ 130BCD. Come on. 11-32 WiFli is just dying to be paired with a narrow-wide chainring on the road. Can't believe that nobody wants to address this potential market--I believe the 46t ring is always sold out--take a hint!


I won't be surprised when SRAM releases 1x11 (12?) for the road. Seems like logical next step. It's a bit surprising that MTB 1x11 has wider gear range than 2x11 road bikes.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Opinions needed - 
Would you all run a 48t, 50t or 52t ring on your 1x10 road bike? Just curious


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Opinions needed -
> Would you all run a 48t, 50t or 52t ring on your 1x10 road bike? Just curious


Depends on the cassette.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Whatever will get me closest to my 36/28 climbing gear.


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## EmZo (Dec 6, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> Opinions needed -
> Would you all run a 48t, 50t or 52t ring on your 1x10 road bike? Just curious


I have been thinking of that since the 1x10 custom hype started.

For 1x10 may be, there will be just a bit too much of a compromise between range and gear step. 
On the road bike the step matters a lot. And it's pretty much noticeable if its larger.

At this moment for example I am riding my roadie 99% on my 50t with 11-23 cassette, but on some long climbs with average or more than 5% grade, sometimes when you are tired and don't have the power may be a problem.

For me 50t front plus 11-25 11sp rear cassette will be perfect and I would try it out for sure.

The benefits going 1x on roadie though may be a little less, since you can't remove the left gear shift, so weight savings will be around or less than 200 grams.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I was thinking about a 1x for my road bike also. I run a 36/52 with an 11-28. I don't see how a 1x can cover that entire range. I was a dedicated roadie from 2008 on. I need my low gear...but also my high gears. I can see doing it on a cross bike or "gravel grinder"...but don't really see it on a dedicated road bike.


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

For TT/Tri bikes I see a 1x10 being a good option for flat courses. A 48 or 50 would work in a sprint or olympic distance flat course. A crit bike would be another good choice where you are in the big ring the whole time. For every day riding though around my parts it would not be a good choice.


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## blackhammer (Jun 28, 2009)

*A 1x10 success story*

Wanted to give a shout out to Wolftooth. I've got two weeks of riding on my new Rip9 and the drivetrain has performed flawlessly. I'm running a 30t up front on an xt cassette with the GC 42t in the rear. The derailleur is an X9 medium type 2 and the chain is a KMC. I had no problems dialing in the shifting. In fact, it may be coincidence, but this is the easiest time I've ever had building up a drivetrain. I wish my old 2x9 on my hardtail shifted this well. I pulled off the 17t cog. I haven't been bothered by the shift from 15t to 19t at all. I scrounged up a 16t cog just in case, but so far I haven't felt the need for it.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Middleburn Direct Mount chainrings*

We now have Middleburn Direct Mount rings! For now we just have 32t, but 28t and 30t are coming in the next week or so.


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

*120 BCD vs. BB30 short spindle direct mount*

Hi.

I am wondering why it is possible to get a 36T 120 BCD chainring and not a 36T direct mount for BB30 short spindle.

Is there any reason for this, or are they just out of stock ?

Thanks in advance


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

My guess is chain line and clearance issues. I dont think I can fit larger then a 34t on my cannondale flash.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey Lindgren,
We will have the 36t BB30 (for the first time) next week. So they have never been in stock but will be later next week!

-Brendan


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> Hey Lindgren,
> We will have the 36t BB30 (for the first time) next week. So they have never been in stock but will be later next week!
> 
> -Brendan


Thanks for the quick answer.
I will look forward to order one 

Stefan - Denmark


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

After some ride time the 40GC is working out much better than the 42GC. Set up is XT cassette and mid cage XT derailleur with XT triple crank. Changes made: Swapped to the 40GC, put the stock b-screw back in derailleur, swapped 34 to 32 chain ring, shortened the chain and spaced the chain ring inboard with 1.6mm spacers. 

I still have some small issues but these are much easier to live with. The chain will still drop from the 40 to the 36 on a backpedal, but it takes at least a full crank rotation or more for this to occur. I will get an occasional grind on upshift in the Shimano portion of the cassette. One of those "ghosts in the machine" that happens once or twice a ride. Hope to figure this one out if possible.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

bubba13 said:


> After some ride time the 40GC is working out much better than the 42GC. Set up is XT cassette and mid cage XT derailleur with XT triple crank. Changes made: Swapped to the 40GC, put the stock b-screw back in derailleur, swapped 34 to 32 chain ring, shortened the chain and spaced the chain ring inboard with 1.6mm spacers.
> 
> I still have some small issues but these are much easier to live with. The chain will still drop from the 40 to the 36 on a backpedal, but it takes at least a full crank rotation or more for this to occur. I will get an occasional grind on upshift in the Shimano portion of the cassette. One of those "ghosts in the machine" that happens once or twice a ride. Hope to figure this one out if possible.


Where did u get the 1.6 spacers from?


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

bapski said:


> Where did u get the 1.6 spacers from?


 Universal Cycles has a variety of spacer thicknesses to choose from.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

[Q UOTE=bubba13;11195002]After some ride time the 40GC is working out much better than the 42GC. Set up is XT cassette and mid cage XT derailleur with XT triple crank. Changes made: Swapped to the 40GC, put the stock b-screw back in derailleur, swapped 34 to 32 chain ring, shortened the chain and spaced the chain ring inboard with 1.6mm spacers.

I still have some small issues but these are much easier to live with. The chain will still drop from the 40 to the 36 on a backpedal, but it takes at least a full crank rotation or more for this to occur. I will get an occasional grind on upshift in the Shimano portion of the cassette. One of those "ghosts in the machine" that happens once or twice a ride. Hope to figure this one out if possible.[/QUOTE]

Why the spacers?


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

I'm having trouble with my XT, 11-36, 42C set up. Longer B screw bent upon entry because the stop tab is too short so had to put the original back in and it seems too short.

Really funny shifting and wondering it he chain line is just off like you found.

I considered dropping to the 40T and that is probably the best next option. Selling the 42t at a loss of course!!


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## bubba13 (Nov 30, 2009)

trumpus said:


> [Q UOTE=bubba13;11195002]After some ride time the 40GC is working out much better than the 42GC. Set up is XT cassette and mid cage XT derailleur with XT triple crank. Changes made: Swapped to the 40GC, put the stock b-screw back in derailleur, swapped 34 to 32 chain ring, shortened the chain and spaced the chain ring inboard with 1.6mm spacers.
> 
> I still have some small issues but these are much easier to live with. The chain will still drop from the 40 to the 36 on a backpedal, but it takes at least a full crank rotation or more for this to occur. I will get an occasional grind on upshift in the Shimano portion of the cassette. One of those "ghosts in the machine" that happens once or twice a ride. Hope to figure this one out if possible.


Why the spacers?[/QUOTE]

I added the spacers to move the chain line inboard and help with the chain coming off of the GC during backpedals. With the previous set up the chain would drop from the GC to the 36 instantly with any backpedal. Now it takes at least a full crank revolution to accomplish this. Wolftooth customer service made the suggestion to add the spacers.


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Has anyone used a 40 or 42 T cog on a 9 speed cassette? What would have to be done to get the spacing correct?


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

I don't know about WT modification, but i can surely let you know that with AbsoluteBlack 40T it is possible.

One of our customers done this 2 weeks ago and he says it works like a charm with no issues and no B tension regulation at all.

What he has done is he ground off a bit of those small distances which would normally touch 36T cog from cassette. He took it enough to have a clear space for the chain. 
Then you need to add 0.45mm spacer between the 40T cog and cassette spider (beer can will do i guess for DIY but you need to measure it with caliper)

This mod will only work with XT 11-34 cassette 9 speed and absoluteblack adapter. I can't speak for anything else.
Marcin


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

Great info, thanks man. 
But,
I don't understand what would need to be ground off, and why. Does the 9 speed cassette have some protrusion on the back that the 10 speed doesn't have?
And I can't picture what the beer can spacer would look like. Would you just cut a washer that could slide over the freehub body?


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## tehan (Jan 22, 2007)

you need to filedown a bit those build-in spacers which normally would sit against 36T cog on 10speed cassette. 
You can use whatever you want for the spacer really. you could cut a ring from the can or just use few scraps like he did (on lats photo these 5 silver bits near freehub)


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## blcman (Feb 1, 2007)

smilinsteve said:


> Has anyone used a 40 or 42 T cog on a 9 speed cassette? What would have to be done to get the spacing correct?


I've done this with the WT 42T doing the same thing as tehan did. Used a dremal tool and a vice and some patience.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Check out their facebook page for a discount code good today only.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

mayonays said:


> Check out their facebook page for a discount code good today only.


Thanks for the tip, I just picked up a 42T cog.

Also, is there any way to remove the 11T instead of the 17T? Could you use the Absolute black end cap?


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## broccoli rob (Jul 3, 2012)

I have a wolftooth 40T with xt cassette and dt swiss 350 hub. I tried removing the 11t and it wouldn't fit over the splines. It will only fit over all the splines by removing the 17t and spacer. When you get the 42t give it a try but it didn't work for me. I'm sure it will fit with the AB cog and I think the Hope too. I guess the WT cog is wider/thicker.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

broccoli rob said:


> I have a wolftooth 40T with xt cassette and dt swiss 350 hub. I tried removing the 11t and it wouldn't fit over the splines. It will only fit over all the splines by removing the 17t and spacer. When you get the 42t give it a try but it didn't work for me. I'm sure it will fit with the AB cog and I think the Hope too. I guess the WT cog is wider/thicker.


Thanks. 17T it is!


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## anortherncrazy (Feb 23, 2011)

FWIW, I have a Wolftooth 42t GC on my X9 10 speed drivetrain on my 9Zero7 fatbike, removed the 17 tooth of course. Thinking about getting the One Up 16t to even things out a bit. Yeah, it'll be kind of a franken-cassette, but the gap will be much less noticeable. Once I did all the tinkering to get it shifting properly, it's been a bulletproof setup 3 months in. My X01 drivetrain on my Fatback fatbike is awesome too, but it is WAY more finicky, but that's all SRAM XX1/X01. That one sports a Wolftooth 32t narrow/wide with not one dropped chain since I bought it in September. Great company..


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## Lars_D (May 24, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> We now have Middleburn Direct Mount rings! For now we just have 32t, but 28t and 30t are coming in the next week or so.
> View attachment 890221
> View attachment 890222


Any chance for a 26t that will fit their square taper cranks?

--Lars


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## spec306 (Sep 30, 2007)

Wolf-

Any chance you guys will come up with a 42T replacement cog for SRAM X01? The cassette is milled out of a single block; however, the 42T is a separate cog that is pressed onto pins on the cassette. My 42T is starting to show wear while the rest of the rings look almost new (lot of climbing days). At $400 for a new cassette that would be a really expensive replacement just for one ring.


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Would I be needing a new chain when I install the 42GC? thanks!


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

mikkosan said:


> Would I be needing a new chain when I install the 42GC? thanks!


The chain gods say, "without a doubt". In fact, go out right now and cut that old chain off with a pair of bolt cutters.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I've come to the conclusion that my tired old knees need a 28t chainring. With that in mind I just ordered a SRAM X01 175mm 168mm Q BB30 crankset. Is it safe to assume that it's a long spindle and I need the WTC direct mount dished GXP ring or is there a chance that it could be a short spindle and I'd need the flat direct mount ring? I want to get the ring ordered while they're still in stock or the whole idea of getting the new cranks will be on hold until WTC gets more in stock.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

I don't suppose anyone has used a 10speed cassette with a WT GC with an XX1 or X01 RD/Shifter, have you?

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...01-rd-shifter-w-10-speed-cassette-914315.html


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## mikkosan (Jun 26, 2009)

Finally installed my 42GC. Shifting is smooth up and down from 36-42.

I'm just having a really really hard tome getting the 15 - 19 to shift well. From 15, it would just hesitate and skip and won't go up to the 19t.

The rest of the gears are fine. Any tips?


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

So I have a successful conversion, Stump Jumper Comp HT converted over using a Wolf Tooth 42 tooth Giant Cog and a Race Face narrow/wide 34t up front with a SRAM X9 type 2 mid cage and a new KMC 10spd chain. It shifts flawlessly up and down and I can barely tell the 17t cog is missing. The only problem is when I am on the new 42t cog and back pedal it jumps down to the 36t cog.

Anyone else have this problem? How did you resolve it?


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

Chris K said:


> So I have a successful conversion, Stump Jumper Comp HT converted over using a Wolf Tooth 42 tooth Giant Cog and a Race Face narrow/wide 34t up front with a SRAM X9 type 2 mid cage and a new KMC 10spd chain. It shifts flawlessly up and down and I can barely tell the 17t cog is missing. The only problem is when I am on the new 42t cog and back pedal it jumps down to the 36t cog.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem? How did you resolve it?


Make sure the chainline from front ring is close to the center of your cassette.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

kickhorse said:


> Make sure the chainline from front ring is close to the center of your cassette.


It's dead on, that was my first thought but it appears good, even chainline on the GC looks good.


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

Chris K said:


> It's dead on, that was my first thought but it appears good, even chainline on the GC looks good.


Only other thing I can think to try is to tweak either your limit screws or play with your shifter cable adjuster to see if that helps.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

Awesome thanks so much. I sent a email to Wolf Tooth and Brendan replied already. May have to space the chain ring in a bit. Not very worried as I don't anticipate backpedaling I that gear. I will give it a bit of time and see. 

Super excited to try the new setup tomorrow a.m. bright and early!! 

The red ring and red GC cog on my matte red stumpy looks awesome.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

Got about 25 miles of single track in and everything went flawless cleaned almost all of the climbs and shifting was perfect. 

Wolf Tooth suggested going to a 8mm chainring bolt and using a 2mm chainring spacer to solve the back pedal issue. I will report back on its success.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Can anybody try & quantify the difference between 40t & 42t???

I know it's 11% vs 17% or something but how does that translate to the ole leg feel?


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## smilinsteve (Jul 21, 2009)

A 42 with a 30 T chain ring is like a 31T cog with a 22T chain ring. 
A 40 with a 30T chain ring is around a 29T cog with a 22T chain ring. 

Just compare the ratios ring/cog.


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## lastplace29er (Apr 29, 2012)

After weeks (it seemed like months) waiting for the 10 mm bolts to get back in stock, I was able to find another source. Ordered them and WT 30t chain ring for my '12 camber comp. I'm pumped! 

How many links should I remove from the chain?


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Any updates on the 16t cog? Looking to swap the 42t for a 40and wanted to order when I can bundles with the new cog.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So I am wanting to use this setup on my mukluk without buying another cassette and derrailuer if possible. Has anyone done this with a sram 950 and x7 rear derailleur? If I can adjust my derailluer for now to just stay in the bigger cogs that is fine. I am hardly ever in my 11t. With either front chainring. I want to put a 30t wolf up front.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Quick update on the 16t=) It is coming! We are working through the finer points of the shifting. It is looking like we will have to do Shimano and SRAM separately to meet our shifting standards (just like we did on the GC), and we have a bunch of prototypes coming this week to figure this out. 
Suffice it to say, they will be the best shifting 16t in the aftermarket when we finish them=) I estimate 3-4 weeks from now for the first batch.

Tundra, 
That setup will work great with the GC40 regardless of the vintage of the derailleur. The GC42s don't work well with 2011 and older rear der. How you tell the vintage is by looking at if the upper derailleur jockey wheel axis of rotation is concentric with the derailleur cage axis of rotation. If the two are offset, your der is 2012 or newer. If they are concentric, yours is 2011 or older.

Cheers!


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

The bike is 2014. I assume it is newer x7. Hopefully it is.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Will the 16t replace the 15t to reduce the gap? Is that the goal?

BTW, got my 42t to shift well. I don't really notice any shifting difference in the 15-19. Maybe clunkier, but nothing that affects my riding.

Now, I just need to jump from my post surgery 26t to 28t...not sure I'll ever make it to 30T, but we'll see.


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## Rakuman (Oct 30, 2004)

WolfTooth said:


> Quick update on the 16t=) It is coming! We are working through the finer points of the shifting. It is looking like we will have to do Shimano and SRAM separately to meet our shifting standards (just like we did on the GC), and we have a bunch of prototypes coming this week to figure this out.
> Suffice it to say, they will be the best shifting 16t in the aftermarket when we finish them=) I estimate 3-4 weeks from now for the first batch.
> Cheers!


*Thats great news because the oneup 16 tooth was a disappointment.. Started skipping teeth after only 4 rides*


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## dmar123 (Mar 30, 2009)

I recently installed the narrow/wide 32 chainring and the 42T onto the cassette. along with their chainring bolts and longer b-screw.

Running a Sram 1070 cassette, Sram 1070 chain, Shimano Shadow plus XTR derailleur, and Shimano XT cranks. 

So far I have about 10 rides and no issues. Shifting is smooth by my standards. The front narrow wide chainring feels very solid when climbing and when mashing on the pedals. When shifting into the 42T gear in back you can hear it shift but it works great and climbing is solid with no skipping or popping. Haven't had any issues shifting between the 15 and 19 gears.

Had some good long rough descents with no chain drops...(no chain guide or bash up front)

short term: so far pretty stoked on the setup, would recommend

long term: will report back.


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## kuuk (May 26, 2008)

Glad to hear WolfTooth will be coming out with a 16t cog, I have the 16t from OneUp and after 4-5 rides I have to say it shifts worse than the stock shimano 15-19 jump I had before.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

kuuk said:


> Glad to hear WolfTooth will be coming out with a 16t cog, I have the 16t from OneUp and after 4-5 rides I have to say it shifts worse than the stock shimano 15-19 jump I had before.


Ditto. WT - will this be packaged with the gc or sold separately?


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

trumpus said:


> Ditto. WT - will this be packaged with the gc or sold separately?


Hopefully included with the GC, since WT's chief competitor OneUp includes a 16T cog with their big cog...


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## y0bailey (Dec 19, 2006)

After plowing through this thread and looking for every available option, I ended up with a 40t Andersen Machine cog (Product Info | Andersen Machine's Blog)

Took off the 17t, checked to make sure I didn't need a new chain (I didn't), checked the B-screw (didn't need adjusted), and did a test ride on my 30t front, 26in bike.

Perfect. No issues with back peddles, don't really notice a jump from removing a cog, and am happy. 2 more rides in and I am still happy.

One thing I did notice was a "clang" when shifting from any gear now. I think it is just the sound resonating through the aluminum big 40t ring...it just changed the whole pitch of the shifting sound.

Has anyone else noticed a change in sound/noise when shifting with one of these monster rings on there?


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

Well. I had my first ride on the 42 GC and I am impressed. Bike is a Turner 5 -spot with a Race Face NW 30T front ring with a shimano XT 11-36 cog in back. I added the 42 GC and removed the 11 tooth and used a Token 12T lockring. Everything, including the new XT shifters, rear derailleur (Shadow plus) and SRAM 10 speed chain was new. 

Everything was pretty easy to set up. Shifting to the 42 took some time to work out and I used the extra long screw, which seemed to be essential. 

To make a long story short, everything worked well. You can't even tell the 42 is back there or anything. Just a normal cluster. 

Call me impressed. I like this 1 X 10 thing and don't think I could ever go back.


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## sikocycles (Oct 10, 2005)

Does the 42t cog works better with Shimano or SRAM cassette? I need a new cassette anyway since I have an XX. 
Any suggestions?


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

sikocycles said:


> Does the 42t cog works better with Shimano or SRAM cassette? I need a new cassette anyway since I have an XX.
> Any suggestions?


Don't really know what works better in the long run but with the XT 11-36 cassette, the 42 GC seems to work fine.


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## Mountain Cycle Shawn (Jan 19, 2004)

sikocycles said:


> Does the 42t cog works better with Shimano or SRAM cassette? I need a new cassette anyway since I have an XX.
> Any suggestions?


I would bet, your answer could be found anywhere between post #1 and post #826.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Mountain Cycle Shawn said:


> I would bet, your answer could be found anywhere between post #1 and post #826.


LOL Shawn=)

My personal favorite bang for the buck cassette is the XT.

yobailey - our 40t will not clang, I assure you=) There is quite a bit of engineering and prototyping that went in to these to get the GCs right.

On the 16t, we have the tested and gotten a lot of feedback on the currently available options out there. Suffice it to say that we are going to take the time we need to get it right. I estimate that to be a few weeks yet. The good news is that once we are happy with the shifting and robustness of the 16t, we can turn production on in about a week!

-Brendan


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

48-53t?? You guys are missing out.


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## lastplace29er (Apr 29, 2012)

The 10 mm bolts are back in stock.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

Chris K said:


> Got about 25 miles of single track in and everything went flawless cleaned almost all of the climbs and shifting was perfect.
> 
> Wolf Tooth suggested going to a 8mm chainring bolt and using a 2mm chainring spacer to solve the back pedal issue. I will report back on its success.


I moved the spacers inboard btwn the chain ring and the crank arm and that solved the issue for me.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

When is the 16T coming?
I hope the testing is going alright and the release is not too far ahead.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Yep, the prototypes are done. We have the material and processing set (critical for good wear). Now it is just testing and tweaking, which in this case is faster than trying to model the system dynamically. For us, getting it right (best shifting possible and robustness equal to the rest of your cassette) is more important than being first to market.
This one is going to be fun to optimize!

I estimate 4 weeks or so for the release of the first production batch.

Cheers,
Brendan


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Awesome. Now I just need to decide if I should ditch the one up cog and go back to my 15t or live with poor shifting until then!


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

Gentlemen, I really want to convert my 2X10 SRAM system to a 1X10 . My cassette is SRAM 1050 11-36 with a X0 clutch type 2 derailleur. My front biggest chain ring is SRAM 38T .

1) Is the WT 36,34, or 32 the best option ? I was thinking go right in the middle with a 34T. I do like the red Anodized one.
2) Do I need new chain ring bolt & Nuts ? If so what Size? 
3) I also want to replace my KMC X10 chain to A KMC black 2.0 chain that is 116 links . How many links do I need to remove for best performance ?
4) where is the best place to order these parts ?

Apreciate your help


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> Gentlemen, I really want to convert my 2X10 SRAM system to a 1X10 . My cassette is SRAM 1050 11-36 with a X0 clutch type 2 derailleur. My front biggest chain ring is SRAM 38T .
> 
> 1) Is the WT 36,34, or 32 the best option ? I was thinking go right in the middle with a 34T. I do like the red Anodized one.
> 2) Do I need new chain ring bolt & Nuts ? If so what Size?
> ...


I went with a 34 race face narrow wide and I am pretty happy I did have to go with a longer chain which I had. I used the same chain ring bolts and moved the spacers between the crank arm and chainring. I couldn't be happier. Mine was a 2014 Stump Jumper Comp HT same cassette as yours and my big ring up front was also a 38.

imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer

I don't know if the links to the pics will work


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

Chris K said:


> I went with a 34 race face narrow wide and I am pretty happy I did have to go with a longer chain which I had. I used the same chain ring bolts and moved the spacers between the crank arm and chainring. I couldn't be happier. Mine was a 2014 Stump Jumper Comp HT same cassette as yours and my big ring up front was also a 38.
> 
> imgur: the simple image sharer
> imgur: the simple image sharer
> ...


Thanks and nice set up, Wondering about your rear big red cog on your cassette . Does it offer more performance climbing ?


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> Thanks and nice set up, Wondering about your rear big red cog on your cassette . Does it offer more performance climbing ?


Yes I went with the 42GC and I have been able to climb everything, having said that not to hilly in lower Michigan. I went with the 34 up front because I do alot of gravel road riding and it seemed like a good mix for me. Not sure how much difference the 32 vs 34 would make.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> Thanks and nice set up, Wondering about your rear big red cog on your cassette . Does it offer more performance climbing ?


Sorry I was a little vague earlier, I needed the new chain because I went to the Wolf Tooth 42T Giant Cog on the cassette. I am sure you would be fine with the same chain especially if you are just going to one chain ring up front and its smaller as long as the chain is not significantly worn. I like the option of the bigger gear in back for climbing.


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

Chris K said:


> Sorry I was a little vague earlier, I needed the new chain because I went to the Wolf Tooth 42T Giant Cog on the cassette. I am sure you would be fine with the same chain especially if you are just going to one chain ring up front and its smaller as long as the chain is not significantly worn. I like the option of the bigger gear in back for climbing.


Thanks for clarifying . Did you have to shim the front chain ring?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

What crank do you have? Im going to assume its an XO or X9. If so no need for chainring bolts as you can do a direct mount and save some weight at the same time.

As for size. It really depends on your terrrain and fitness. I have a 30t and have not run out of gears either way yet. I can comfortably sping at 25-27kmh on the road (29er).

Next year I might think about a 32 or 34 tooth if I feel it is needed.


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

I'm still holding out for a 30T Sworks direct mount ring


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> Gentlemen, I really want to convert my 2X10 SRAM system to a 1X10 . My cassette is SRAM 1050 11-36 with a X0 clutch type 2 derailleur. My front biggest chain ring is SRAM 38T .
> 
> 1) Is the WT 36,34, or 32 the best option ? I was thinking go right in the middle with a 34T. I do like the red Anodized one.
> 2) Do I need new chain ring bolt & Nuts ? If so what Size?
> ...


1) That is a hard question to benefit with the correct answer!
It depend on the trails you are riding and how good shape you are in.
I have 11-36 cassette and went for 36 tooth chainring duo to the fact that i would not miss too many of the higher gear ratios - it works fine for me!
(It just works perfect - Great job Woolftooth)

2)
Which crank are you riding with ?

3)
The chain should be fitted AFTER you've installed the new setup and depend on which chainring you decide (32-34-36).

If you are considering to buy a 40-42 giant cog for your cassette, then your chain of course need to have more links than with a 11-36 cassette!

When you have fitted your new setup, you run the chain on the biggest cog in the back and the biggest in front (You only have one in this case). DON'T Run the chain through the rear derailleur, ONLY the cogs. Then the chain should overlap with 2 links + quick-link = perfect chain lenght

4)
Drop-Stop Chainrings 
And there is probably all the info you need about what chainring you should run!!!


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Anyone using the Wolftooth 2x or 3x Chainrings?
I have xt 2x10 and looking at nicer rings.


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

After not being happy with the shifting performance with the WolfTooth 42T cog I ordered a Hope 40T. Shifting is sooo much better now with the Hope, i think 40T is the way to go with the current Shimano 10speed derailleurs. 42T requires the B screw to be wound out too far.
On my first ride, we had a long slightly downhill singletrack that meanders along for 15mins and I really noticed the gap between the 15T and the 19T. 15T was too high a gear and the 19T was too low and had me spinning my legs too fast.
I'm having a hard time locating a used cassette I can steal a 16T from so, what are people using for a 16T? Ive heard the OneUp has issues after a few weeks riding...... I've seen some 10speed Miche cogs that come in a 16T on Ebay but the ad says that they are not designed to be compatible with brands other than Miche. Anyone had any experience using these?


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

anno88 said:


> After not being happy with the shifting performance with the WolfTooth 42T cog I ordered a Hope 40T. Shifting is sooo much better now with the Hope, i think 40T is the way to go with the current Shimano 10speed derailleurs. 42T requires the B screw to be wound out too far.
> On my first ride, we had a long slightly downhill singletrack that meanders along for 15mins and I really noticed the gap between the 15T and the 19T. 15T was too high a gear and the 19T was too low and had me spinning my legs too fast.
> I'm having a hard time locating a used cassette I can steal a 16T from so, what are people using for a 16T? Ive heard the OneUp has issues after a few weeks riding...... I've seen some 10speed Miche cogs that come in a 16T on Ebay but the ad says that they are not designed to be compatible with brands other than Miche. Anyone had any experience using these?


The 42t conversion no matter who makes it is relying upon many a factor bike/derailluer brand/owners tuning skill and so on......I had no issues with the 41t ebay SS version or Action Tecs 39t a few years ago....

On reflection.....you getting a different Co's 40t version working....obviously Shimano didn't want to R&D a new system hence their 11spd 11-40t cassette...


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

Gripo said:


> The 42t conversion no matter who makes it is relying upon many a factor bike/derailluer brand/owners tuning skill and so on......I had no issues with the 41t ebay SS version or Action Tecs 39t a few years ago....
> 
> On reflection.....you getting a different Co's 40t version working....obviously Shimano didn't want to R&D a new system hence their 11spd 11-40t cassette...


I will guarantee that Shimano's new system with the 40T rear cassette will use a new derailleur with a different arc to keep it close to the cassette at every cog. Shimano will definitely have done R&D on the new system. 
The 42T with the current 10speed is just too much of a compromise. That aside, I guarantee that my tuning skills are second to none (if i do say so myself ;-) ) but the WT 42T I received was ever so slightly spaced differently compared to the cogs on the cassette and this made it impossible to get the shifting working adequately.


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## Lindgren (Sep 8, 2013)

anno88 said:


> I will guarantee that Shimano's new system with the 40T rear cassette will use a new derailleur with a different arc to keep it close to the cassette at every cog. Shimano will definitely have done R&D on the new system.
> The 42T with the current 10speed is just too much of a compromise. That aside, I guarantee that my tuning skills are second to none (if i do say so myself ;-) ) but the WT 42T I received was ever so slightly spaced differently compared to the cogs on the cassette and this made it impossible to get the shifting working adequately.


I can guarantee you it's a human error.
That space is for sure correct.
Either you had a SRAM cassette and boght a cog made for Shimano OR
You had a Shimano cassette and bought a cog made for SRAM
3'rd option - you have 10 thumbs and mounted it wrong!


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

anno88 said:


> After not being happy with the shifting performance with the WolfTooth 42T cog I ordered a Hope 40T. Shifting is sooo much better now with the Hope, i think 40T is the way to go with the current Shimano 10speed derailleurs. 42T requires the B screw to be wound out too far.
> On my first ride, we had a long slightly downhill singletrack that meanders along for 15mins and I really noticed the gap between the 15T and the 19T. 15T was too high a gear and the 19T was too low and had me spinning my legs too fast.
> I'm having a hard time locating a used cassette I can steal a 16T from so, what are people using for a 16T? Ive heard the OneUp has issues after a few weeks riding...... I've seen some 10speed Miche cogs that come in a 16T on Ebay but the ad says that they are not designed to be compatible with brands other than Miche. Anyone had any experience using these?


Miche 16T doesn't work well.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

I kept all my gears in the middle when adding a 42t and took off the 11t and used a 12tlockring to secure my lowesr 13t gear.
This works perfect and I recommend it to everyone.

My 42T shifts perfect on my 11-36 shimano xt 771 cassette.

Maybe the poster above had a 11-34 trying to add the 42 to this wont shift, a 40t is compatible with the 11-34 cassettes.


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Trail_Blazer said:


> I kept all my gears in the middle when adding a 42t and took off the 11t and used a 12tlockring to secure my lowesr 13t gear.
> This works perfect and I recommend it to everyone.


You are not extending your range then, you are just shifting it. You could switch to a smaller front chainring for the same effect (i.e. from 32T to 28T).


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

I jus used 2mm spacers between the crank arm spider and the chainring. Seems about perfect. I was having a problem without the spacers when I back pedaled on the Giant Cog it wanted to jump down, Wolf Tooth suggested the spacers and that corrected it for me.


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> Thanks for clarifying . Did you have to shim the front chain ring?


Sorry, the reply was to his question.


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## Vespasianus (Apr 9, 2008)

anno88 said:


> I will guarantee that Shimano's new system with the 40T rear cassette will use a new derailleur with a different arc to keep it close to the cassette at every cog. Shimano will definitely have done R&D on the new system.
> The 42T with the current 10speed is just too much of a compromise. That aside, I guarantee that my tuning skills are second to none (if i do say so myself ;-) ) but the WT 42T I received was ever so slightly spaced differently compared to the cogs on the cassette and this made it impossible to get the shifting working adequately.


I must have gotten lucky as my 42T cog added to a 10 speed 11-36 cassette is working great. I don't notice any difference between the shifting to the 42 and the shifting up and down the cassette is pretty un-remarkable. That is, it happens in a way that I don't even notice it. Everything was pretty much new when I made the conversion but so far, a pretty easy change with a nice upside.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Chris K said:


> I jus used 2mm spacers between the crank arm spider and the chainring. Seems about perfect. I was having a problem without the spacers when I back pedaled on the Giant Cog it wanted to jump down, Wolf Tooth suggested the spacers and that corrected it for me.


Is the ring secure in the place when the spacer is installed? What kind of spacer did you use?


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## Chris K (Aug 28, 2013)

jazzanova said:


> Is the ring secure in the place when the spacer is installed? What kind of spacer did you use?


Yeah its plenty secure. I used the stock chain ring bolts on my SRAM outer ring and took the spacers off from the outside of the chainring that sit right below the bolt and moved them inboard between the spider and the ring. The female portion of the bolt still goes through the spider, through the spacer and through the chain ring hole giving the threaded part of the chainring bolt plenty to thread into. Wheels Manufactoring has the spacers available if needed but you have to buy them in like a 16 pack, I only needed 4.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Chris K said:


> Yeah its plenty secure. I used the stock chain ring bolts on my SRAM outer ring and took the spacers off from the outside of the chainring that sit right below the bolt and moved them inboard between the spider and the ring. The female portion of the bolt still goes through the spider, through the spacer and through the chain ring hole giving the threaded part of the chainring bolt plenty to thread into. Wheels Manufactoring has the spacers available if needed but you have to buy them in like a 16 pack, I only needed 4.


Ohh, I thought you were using a direct mount ring...


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

I am going to install a 42GC this weekend, with a Raceface 30T narrow wide ring, SRAM PG1070 cassette, and X9 type 2 derailleur. (It will be going onto a Niner RIP9). 

Question on chain sizing - do you use the standard method of running the chain in the ring and largest cog in the back (bypassing the derailleur) and add 2 links?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

That is how I did my chain but I added 3 links and so far I like it. I think 2 links will be fine as well.


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

Lindgren said:


> I can guarantee you it's a human error.
> That space is for sure correct.
> Either you had a SRAM cassette and boght a cog made for Shimano OR
> You had a Shimano cassette and bought a cog made for SRAM
> 3'rd option - you have 10 thumbs and mounted it wrong!


You can 'guarantee' that can you? I didn't realize you came to look and measure my GC spacing. I would have made you a coffee!

I have a XT Freehub, XT Cassette and Shimano GC. All mounted the correct way. 
5 years as a bike mechanic and maintaining my own bikes for the last 15years, I can guarantee YOU that it is not human error.

I can get the shifting to work flawlessly on the rest of the cassette but shifting to the GC is no good. If I make the adjustments to get the shifting to the GC cog working then shifting throughout the rest of the cassette is compromised.

Looking at the cassette from the rear, it is obviosl that the spacing between the 36T and the GC is different to the spacing between the cogs on the rest of the cassette. A one off manufacturing error? Possibly.


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## anno88 (Aug 1, 2011)

jazzanova said:


> Miche 16T doesn't work well.


Thanks


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

anno88 said:


> You can 'guarantee' that can you? I didn't realize you came to look and measure my GC spacing. I would have made you a coffee!
> 
> I have a XT Freehub, XT Cassette and Shimano GC. All mounted the correct way.
> 5 years as a bike mechanic and maintaining my own bikes for the last 15years, I can guarantee YOU that it is not human error.
> ...


Try contacting the WT guys to let them know. I'm sure they'll work with you to resolve any issues if it is tolerance related. I'm using an XT cassette with 40t and 42t GC's on 2 bikes and shifting is flawless. Only difference is I'm using a X9 SRAM rd.

Just thinking out loud, but make sure you have sufficient chain length for rd to make that move to the big ring.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Anno88 are ypu using an extra long b screw? I think thats a requirement.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

zuuds said:


> Question on chain sizing - do you use the standard method of running the chain in the ring and largest cog in the back (bypassing the derailleur) and add 2 links?


With the suspension fully compressed


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> With the suspension fully compressed


Why fully compressed, to get to the point of maximum chain growth? If that's the case I should do it with the suspension fully extended. When I let the air out of the shock and cycle through the suspension, the distance between the bottom bracket and rear dropout is the longest at full extension and the shortest at full compression.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

zuuds said:


> Why fully compressed, to get to the point of maximum chain growth? If that's the case I should do it with the suspension fully extended. When I let the air out of the shock and cycle through the suspension, the distance between the bottom bracket and rear dropout is the longest at full extension and the shortest at full compression.


Yes, for maximum chain growth. That is usually when the suspension is compressed. What bike do you have that has longer chain fully extended than fully compressed?


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

My specialised camber chain is shorter when shock is compressed and chain is stretched tighter when shock is extended.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

CrozCountry said:


> Yes, for maximum chain growth. That is usually when the suspension is compressed. What bike do you have that has longer chain fully extended than fully compressed?


A 2012 Niner RIP9. I also thought the rule of thumb is that chain growth is maxed at full compression. The instructions that came with the SRAM derailleur say to size the chain with the suspension fully compressed. But I had the opposite result when I measured.

I asked about it in the Niner forum, and apparently that's the way it is with the CVA design.


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## Dphoward (Jul 29, 2013)

Just installed the 42 for Shimano. Works great around the street. Will have it on the trails tomorrow.

Xt 11-36
Shadow plus 
Sram chain


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)




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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

48-53t chainrings. 48-53t. 48-53t.


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## StumpjumperUK (Dec 6, 2004)

Just been for my first proper ride with a Wolf Tooth BB30 28T on my Specialized Enduro 1x11 - so far, really nice. Chain line looks good, seems quiet and no chain drops. Seemed to fit the SRAM crank a little better than the original SRAM spider - strange?
However, really was a pain and an expense to get hold of one in the UK!


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I'm going to be mounting a direct mount chainring on an XX1 crank as soon as the ring arrives, but I haven't found the torque spec for the three Torx bolts anywhere. Anyone happen to know how tight they should be?


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## clarkrw3 (Feb 21, 2011)

Any new ETA on the 16T? Also do you guys have anything in the works similar to what One-up just announced? I love all the stuff you do!!


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## StumpjumperUK (Dec 6, 2004)

ric426 said:


> I'm going to be mounting a direct mount chainring on an XX1 crank as soon as the ring arrives, but I haven't found the torque spec for the three Torx bolts anywhere. Anyone happen to know how tight they should be?


would be happy to see this too. I checked the XX1 service manual http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Q.../files/techdocs/2014_xx1_service_manual_0.pdf but doesn't seem to be in there. Without a proper torque number I used blue (medium strength) loctite and "quite tight" by hand.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

So far I've found guesstimates from 5Nm to 10Nm (44 to 88 in-lbs) and one saying that 12Nm (106 in-lbs) was too high and he stripped the threads in one of the holes on the crank. I sent an email to WTC asking about it and if they have any specs I'll post them here. I'm planning on using some blue Loctite too.


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

ric426 said:


> I sent an email to WTC asking about it and if they have any specs I'll post them here.


WTC comes through again!
"Grease the interface of the ring and cranks and bolts. Torque the bolts to 7 Nm or so."


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

*chainline angle question*

I installed a 42GC on my '12 Niner RIP9. I'm using a Raceface 30T n/w ring, 11-36 SRAM cassette, and X9 derailleur. Took it out for the first trail ride, and it's working great, no issues at all shifting into or out of the GC, and no chain drops.

When the chain is in the 5th (middle) cog, the chainline is pretty much dead on straight. However, looking at the bike in the stand, when the chain is in the 42T cog, the chainline angle looks very extreme. When the chain is on the 11T cog, the chainline angle is increased (as would be expected), but nowhere near as extreme as when it's in the 42T.

One of my riding buddies has an X0 1x11 drivetrain, I looked at the chainline angle in his 42T cog. It also seems high, but not as high as mine. I think that's the nature of the beast with these 1x setups, but I'm wondering if my angle is too extreme and will cause premature wear on the GC and/or chainring.

I am running a Shimano XT M770 crank (formerly 3x9). My RIP9 has a 73mm bottom bracket shell, so per the shimano techdocs, I ran one 2.5mm spacer between the left bottom bracket cup and the bottom bracket shell. I realize that the instructions contemplate that you will be running a 3x9 setup, so perhaps the spacer situation needs to be different for a 1x10 setup.

I'm wondering if I should get rid of that 2.5mm spacer. On one hand, with the spacer in, the chainline is dead on in the 5th cog, and doesn't look bad in the 11T cog, but the angle in the 42T cg looks a little crazy to me.

Removing the spacer should improve the chainline angle in the 42T cog at the expense of the angle in the 11T cog. I spend much more time in the low gears than the high, so I'm thinking perhaps I should take the spacer out so the chainline is better in the gears I spend more time in.

Has anyone else dealt with this issue?


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

If it is shifting properly and transitions smoothly, you could just leave it and ride. But if you're ocd like me, then you will remove spacer and observe if chainline and shifting improves before making final decision.


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

I moved the spacer to the non-drive side on my XT cranks and it has helped keep the chain on when back pedalling in the GC, it will still drop if I back pedal a couple of revolutions though.


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

pablobell said:


> I moved the spacer to the non-drive side on my XT cranks and it has helped keep the chain on when back pedalling in the GC, it will still drop if I back pedal a couple of revolutions though.


Is your rd a type 2?


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

kickhorse said:


> Is your rd a type 2?


Yes XT clutch long cage, shortly to be converted to OneUp RAD med cage.


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

pablobell said:


> Yes XT clutch long cage, shortly to be converted to OneUp RAD med cage.


Mine is already ordered too.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

StumpjumperUK said:


> Seemed to fit the SRAM crank a little better than the original SRAM spider - strange?


No surprise there, the SRAM parts are shamefully sloppy. And prone to creaking at that sloppy 3-bolt spider interface. They should take a look at what Race Face is doing with the Cinch spider design.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

zuuds said:


> I'm wondering if I should get rid of that 2.5mm spacer. On one hand, with the spacer in, the chainline is dead on in the 5th cog, and doesn't look bad in the 11T cog, but the angle in the 42T cg looks a little crazy to me.
> 
> Removing the spacer should improve the chainline angle in the 42T cog at the expense of the angle in the 11T cog. I spend much more time in the low gears than the high, so I'm thinking perhaps I should take the spacer out so the chainline is better in the gears I spend more time in.
> 
> Has anyone else dealt with this issue?


The problem with just removing a spacer is that you only have a narrow range of preload adjustment on the crankarm splines to work with, and you make the q-factor uneven from side-to-side. It is a narrow spacer, so this is not a huge deal, but you do need to make sure that you can properly preload the cranks. On my M985 XTR cranks I replaced all 3 of the stock plastic spacers (68mm shell) with aluminum ones, and used slightly narrower ones. I tried to keep things even, and it also slightly improved the chainline to the big cogs without screwing up the preload. It is still maybe a bit of a stretch to the big cog, but it works well as long as you are not real big on backpedaling. We will see how the wear is, but I don't use the big WT 40t that often. And I will probably upgrade it to a 42t once I get my RAD cage installed. In my particular setup, I do wish there was a bit more bias to the big cogs built into the chainline of the Wolftooth 88bcdx32t ring I am using. I like the ring otherwise, it works great.


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> The problem with just removing a spacer is that you only have a narrow range of preload adjustment on the crankarm splines to work with, and you make the q-factor uneven from side-to-side. It is a narrow spacer, so this is not a huge deal, but you do need to make sure that you can properly preload the cranks. On my M985 XTR cranks I replaced all 3 of the stock plastic spacers (68mm shell) with aluminum ones, and used slightly narrower ones. I tried to keep things even, and it also slightly improved the chainline to the big cogs without screwing up the preload. It is still maybe a bit of a stretch to the big cog, but it works well as long as you are not real big on backpedaling. We will see how the wear is, but I don't use the big WT 40t that often. And I will probably upgrade it to a 42t once I get my RAD cage installed. In my particular setup, I do wish there was a bit more bias to the big cogs built into the chainline of the Wolftooth 88bcdx32t ring I am using. I like the ring otherwise, it works great.





pablobell said:


> I moved the spacer to the non-drive side on my XT cranks and it has helped keep the chain on when back pedalling in the GC, it will still drop if I back pedal a couple of revolutions though.





kickhorse said:


> If it is shifting properly and transitions smoothly, you could just leave it and ride. But if you're ocd like me, then you will remove spacer and observe if chainline and shifting improves before making final decision.


Good things to consider. I have not had the chain drop from the 42T cog when backpedaling, but I'm running an X9 Type 2 derailleur. I even intentionally tried to get the chain to drop by backpedaling, but it won't do it.

I'm glad you guys mentioned the issues about preload and Q-factor and moving the spacer to the other side. I thought it was as simple as removing the spacer from the drive side but now I understand the reason why the tech docs specify where and what thickness spacer to use for different bottom bracket shell sizes.

I spend a LOT of time in my 42T and 36T cogs (I have bird legs) and very little time in the small cogs. Maybe a better way to bias the chainline towards the big cogs would be to do it with chainring spacers rather than the bottom bracket spacer. I'm currently using the old 8.5mm bolts that formerly secured my 22T granny, so if I went that route I'd need some 10mm bolts, which would provide justification for upgrading to some sweet red anodized bolts...


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

clarkrw3 said:


> Any new ETA on the 16T? Also do you guys have anything in the works similar to what One-up just announced? I love all the stuff you do!!


This. Any news? Last I heard it was 3 weeks, but that was over 3 weeks ago...


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Soon!*



trumpus said:


> This. Any news? Last I heard it was 3 weeks, but that was over 3 weeks ago...


They are still in process. The main reason (or excuse =) for the delay is that we spent some extra time tweaking the cog clocking (read: extra round of prototyping), which greatly affects the shifting performance.

Sorry for the delay on these. When they are done (soon) they will be awesome!

-Brendan


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> They are still in process. The main reason (or excuse =) for the delay is that we spent some extra time tweaking the cog clocking (read: extra round of prototyping), which greatly affects the shifting performance.
> 
> Sorry for the delay on these. When they are done (soon) they will be awesome!
> 
> -Brendan


Thanks for the update. What is the current ETA?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

I will have a better date this weekend. I will have a prototype with the final clocking and fab process on my bike tonite. I don't want to predict until my rubber has hit the road/gravel/dirt/mud =)


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

WolfTooth said:


> I will have a better date this weekend. I will have a prototype with the final clocking and fab process on my bike tonite. I don't want to predict until my rubber has hit the road/gravel/dirt/mud =)


Sounds good. I don't mind waiting. I believe this is going to be much better product than the one offered by that other company.

One more question. It might have been answered before though.
Xtr 11-36 cassette and Short Sram XO derailleur + WT 40t.
Any chance it would work?
42t was understandably too much for the short cage.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey @Jazz

Yes the short cage works with a 40t. The short cage sometimes even works with the 42, but you have to get chain length perfect.


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## jnicosia (Aug 2, 2013)

I already went single chainring in the front 32T, now I am really thinking if the wolf tooth 40T for the cassette and holding out untill the 16T cog is ready. Would I have to get a new chain now since I shortened it by 2 links from stock when I had my 2x10 on it ? My 2x10 bigger chain ring was 38T


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

jnicosia said:


> I already went single chainring in the front 32T, now I am really thinking if the wolf tooth 40T for the cassette and holding out untill the 16T cog is ready. Would I have to get a new chain now since I shortened it by 2 links from stock when I had my 2x10 on it ? My 2x10 bigger chain ring was 38T


Depends on your suspension design, you would need to let the air out of the shock to get full travel to check it, although you are probably unlikely to be at full travel in the lowest gear in the real world.

I took out 2 links from a factory 2X chain and I'm running a 42 GC. It is just long enough, just, it really should be 1 link longer. With a 40t you might be fine depending on the suspension. I have a 140 mm Trance.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*16t in production*

FYI - the 16t is in production and we will start pre-selling them next week. The will start shipping a week later. We will let you all know when the pre-sale starts.

https://www.facebook.com/1551124579...5112457987558/318167325015403/?type=1&theater

For those that don't like the 15-19 cog jump when using the GCs, this cog will help smooth out that transition a LOT. We have tested all the current 16t options out there, and in in every way we could quantify the shifting performance, blind testing and on the bike stand, our new cog was the best (and we definitely spent a lot of extra time getting it that way!!).

-Brendan


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## pablobell (Oct 18, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> FYI - the 16t is in production and we will start pre-selling them next week. The will start shipping a week later. We will let you all know when the pre-sale starts.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/1551124579...5112457987558/318167325015403/?type=1&theater
> 
> ...


Does it shift better than a Shimano 16T that has been dremeled and re-clocked?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

pablobell said:


> Does it shift better than a Shimano 16T that has been dremeled and re-clocked?


I can't say for sure on that =) I would guess it is similar if your shifting is pretty good.


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

Brendan,
Any chance in hell you'll ever make rings for the old compact, 5-arm 94/58 BCD cranks? Certainly won't ever be a big demand, but there has to be a few of us with classic Turbine LP cranks sitting around that we'd use if we had a NW ring for it.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

rwitte said:


> Brendan,
> Any chance in hell you'll ever make rings for the old compact, 5-arm 94/58 BCD cranks? Certainly won't ever be a big demand, but there has to be a few of us with classic Turbine LP cranks sitting around that we'd use if we had a NW ring for it.


At this point, the answer is no on that BCD (we are focused on a bunch of other new cool stuff).


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## FastBanana (Aug 29, 2013)

Why not make your own cranks? Something spiderless and decent priced?


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So with this 16t in a 11-36 cassette with your 42 GC what will be taking out or what will be left in a Sram 1050 for example. I haven't taken one apart to see where it comes apart and which cogs are attached. Would there be anyway to make a 10 speed out of a sram 950? That's what I have and if I could just add your stuff to it that would be awesome. I don't know if I can get a 36t to add on with your cogs as well. Just trying to figure out the simplest and cheapest way to jump to you 1X on my fatbike. The ratio with a 30t chain ring and 42gc works out fine compared to my 22t to 34t now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Hey there. Figured I would post in both threads to get quickest help. Would this XT 11-36t (CS-M771 shimano cassette work in place of my sram 950? It is a bit cheaper than the sram 1050 cassette. I am wondering if it would be compatible with the x7 type 2 rear derrailuer? Might be a cheaper route for me to go since I will be just pulling it apart anyways. Get the 42t GC and the 16t from wolf tooth. Along with the 30t chain ring. I am trying to get to 1x in the cheapest easiest route. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@FastBanana - what is a reasonable price? 

@tundra - the XT will work great with SRAM stuff. XT is the best bang for your buck cassette out there. Be sure you have the Shimano GC for it.
On the 16t, you pull out the 15t,17t, and 1 spacer. Your cassette will be go 11-13-16-19-....


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

XT 771 add 42T remove 11T but keep all other gears and swap 12T-Lockring.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Had the same setup and was working well until the 12T lockring started to "slip"(i would pedal but it was not moving the bike)while i was at 13T gear


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Our 16t are now for sale. Shipping in 7-10 days (this will adjust if we sell through them all and need to make another batch quickly).

You should expect this little guy to shift and have durability similar to the the other small cogs on your cassette=)

16 Tooth Cog - wolftoothcomponents.com


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

Ordered, thanks!


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

Ordered. Can't wait


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

In for 1. Will order more if it works like advertised.


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## llamma (Apr 28, 2012)

The other day I installed a WT 42T cog, new 11-36 XT cassette (with new 16T from 11-32 XT cassette), and HG-95 chain. I also replaced my 104 BCD 30T chainring with a direct-mount Sworks 30T ring. I turned the B screw all the way in and to my surprise everything shifted perfectly on the stand without any other adjustments. I went for a long ride yesterday and I found that the only problem I have is the chain rubs against the face of the 42T cog while in the 36T. Anyone else have this problem? The 42T has a built in spacer, correct? I assume it has to, or else everything wouldn't be snug with the lock ring tightened down. I'm not too keen on the idea of playing with the barrel adjuster as everything else is shifting perfectly.


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

llamma said:


> The other day I installed a WT 42T cog, new 11-36 XT cassette (with new 16T from 11-32 XT cassette), and HG-95 chain. I also replaced my 104 BCD 30T chainring with a direct-mount Sworks 30T ring. I turned the B screw all the way in and to my surprise everything shifted perfectly on the stand without any other adjustments. I went for a long ride yesterday and I found that the only problem I have is the chain rubs against the face of the 42T cog while in the 36T. Anyone else have this problem? The 42T has a built in spacer, correct? I assume it has to, or else everything wouldn't be snug with the lock ring tightened down. I'm not too keen on the idea of playing with the barrel adjuster as everything else is shifting perfectly.


Sounds like the barrel adjuster needs some really fine tuning. Try just a 1/4 turn each way at a time to see if there is any improvement. Otherwise if it's shifting fine and not jumping up the bigger cog or making noise, just leave it for now.


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

So its one single cog for both cassettes? How is it different than the OneUp? Mounts up the same way. Can't tell if the ramps are in the same spot.

I think I'll wait till I see some side by side user comparisons.


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

Anyone have idea of the weight difference between the standard BB30 design and the snowflake design in 32T?


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

Ordered. Though I agree with the question above - I thought we were supposed to expect a Shimano-specific cog? How is this different from the One Up? Regardless, at $20 and the fact the my One Up shifts so poorly, I'm willing to try!


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## RRRoubaix (Jan 30, 2011)

jazzanova said:


> In for 1. Will order more if it works like advertised.


Ditto!
I haven't even set mine up yet, so I won't really know if the shifting is "improved" or not...


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Anyone using the Zee FR derailure with the 42 tooth?
Is it easy to setup or hard to tweak?


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

really loving my 36T/42T GC setup.

what im having a problem with is when im on the 13T. itll shift fine initially, but then it'll start "jumping" around like it wants to get out of 13T to another cog but can't. when i shift to either 15T or 11t everything is fine again.

shifting to 19T towards 42T seems to be fine.

everything in the drivetrain is new this season, XT PLUS RD, XT cassette, XT shifter only thing i did not change was my chain but this was because ive had the chain im using for only a season. could this be my problem? but why only on 13T? i do plan to get a new chain as the one i was using finally broke.

i also tried to use shims to supposedly improve my chainline since im using a 3x shimano crank. im thinking of taking this out today as i think this only helps(?) the chain from jumping from 42t to 36t while backpedalling. 

thanks in advance for the inputs.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Bapski - you should check your chain stretch (a year is all that most people get out of a chain). It might be worn out. Also, check the 15t for any burs that might be catching the chain.

On the 3x, the middle position provides an ~50mm chainline which is great for 1x. You can do a couple 2mm spacers if you find yourself always in the upper part of the cassette, but most customers just run the ring in the middle position.

Cheers,
Brendan


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## bprice2 (Jun 14, 2013)

Hi Wolftooth,

I ordered a 28/30 bashguard thru Pricepoint a while back. The ring is on back order. Can you give me some idea when the next production round will go out to your retailers (ie Pricepoint)?

Thanks,

Brett


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Bprice2 - we expect to have those done and for sale on our webstore inside of 2 weeks. You will have to ask PP when they can get it out to you base on that.


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## bprice2 (Jun 14, 2013)

Sounds good. Thanks.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> @Bapski - you should check your chain stretch (a year is all that most people get out of a chain). It might be worn out. Also, check the 15t for any burs that might be catching the chain.
> 
> although i sparingly used my bike, you're probably right. i just put in a new chain and it has behaved well, but then again i will not know for sure till i ride it on the trails.
> 
> ...


im liking my PACE while on 15T. i might not need the 16T after all...


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> Our 16t are now for sale. Shipping in 7-10 days (this will adjust if we sell through them all and need to make another batch quickly).
> 
> You should expect this little guy to shift and have durability similar to the the other small cogs on your cassette=)
> 
> 16 Tooth Cog â€" wolftoothcomponents.com


Is there an update as to when to expect these? I preordered on the 19th.


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## whoodie (Apr 15, 2012)

trumpus said:


> Is there an update as to when to expect these? I preordered on the 19th.


I received a shipment notification today, looking forward to throwing the One Up 16T in the garbage!


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I also pre-ordered, and got notice today that it's queued to ship tomorrow.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Cannondale Hollowgram Direct mount rings*

Cannondale Hollowgram Direct Mount rings for your 1x C'dales are in the WTC house...

32 and 34t are in stock and shipping. 30t are coming next week.
Direct Mount for Cannondale Hollowgram Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Got my WT 16T installed today, looks perfect in the stand. It's replacing a XT 16t from a 9spd cassette whose ramps were not lined up (didn't affect shifting much though). 

I'm stoked with my setup: 32T WT front, XT shadow+ w/ RAD cage. 42T GC WT and XTR shifter and chain. I'm using the stock B screw with plenty of thread left. It's all so smooth and shifts perfect. The bike is an Anthem 27.5. I also got the WT front derailleur cover plate and stem cap -- maybe that's why it's shifting so good 

Before installing the RAD cage I had a WT 40GC which required the longer B screw. 

Brendan, any plans for a WT cage? Make both the inner and outer so it would fit on a long cage XT as that's what most OEM bikes come with.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Hmmm, wonder if the RAD cage and inner plate fit on a Zee?


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

It does, look in the OneUP thread.


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## trumpus (Jul 21, 2009)

mikericci said:


> Got my WT 16T installed today, looks perfect in the stand. It's replacing a XT 16t from a 9spd cassette whose ramps were not lined up (didn't affect shifting much though)


Got my 16t installed today as well and shifting is WAY better than the OneUp. First shakedown ride was good - still needs a bit of tweaking, but so far I am encouraged. Thanks WT!


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## whoodie (Apr 15, 2012)

Received and installed my 16t WT cog yesterday. I was running a One Up previously. Shifting is lightyears ahead of the one up! Just looking at the two cogs side by side you can easily notice the extra attention to details that WT put into their gear. I may end up swapping to a WT 42 rear cog and toss the one up 42t in the trash based on principle alone. Very impressive WT, I'm a very happy customer 

In the pics below, notice how much sharper the shifting features are compared to the one up cog. It's all in the details my friends!


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## Ozzy43 (Mar 24, 2012)

Tomkat27 said:


> Here mine. 32T 11-36. Never drop a chain too.
> 
> View attachment 821021
> 
> ...


. Hey Tomkat27 I'm in the process of converting a M980 to a 1x10 myself using a wolftooth 34t with a bash guard. What chainring bolts did you use on your setup? Thanks


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Whoodie and Trumpus - great to hear you are please. It was certainly our intention to design and produce the best 16t option out there, but it is always rewarding to have that recognized=)

For those wondering, the next batch should be done in about a week.

-Brendan


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Brendan, I have an SRAM X1 crank set with a BB30 bracket. Can I use a Wolftooth direct mount 28t or 30t on the X1 crank and maintain current chain line?


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

ric426 said:


> I've come to the conclusion that my tired old knees need a 28t chainring. With that in mind I just ordered a SRAM X01 175mm 168mm Q BB30 crankset. Is it safe to assume that it's a long spindle and I need the WTC direct mount dished GXP ring or is there a chance that it could be a short spindle and I'd need the flat direct mount ring? I want to get the ring ordered while they're still in stock or the whole idea of getting the new cranks will be on hold until WTC gets more in stock.


Did you ever get an answer on this post? I'm thinking with a BB30 you may need the flat ring, but I'm trying to find out the answer to a similar question, as I posted above.


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

Simplemind said:


> Brendan, I have an SRAM X1 crank set with a BB30 bracket. Can I use a Wolftooth direct mount 28t or 30t on the X1 crank and maintain current chain line?


Is it long or short BB spindle? Short you need the flat ring, long you need the dished ring

I'm assuming you've got the short which is the same as my XX1 so you need the short spindle flat direct mount ring


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I've got a BB30 XX1 crank and I put the dished GXP direct mount chainring on it because I wanted the chainline biased toward the larger cogs. Works great and no problems with shifting or the chain dropping down on backpedaling. YMMV


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

ric426 said:


> I've got a BB30 XX1 crank and I put the dished GXP direct mount chainring on it because I wanted the chainline biased toward the larger cogs. Works great and no problems with shifting or the chain dropping down on backpedaling. YMMV


Interesting idea, thanks! Your thinking is that the heaviest loading on the derailleur/cogset is going to be in the lower gears?


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## Chowder Head (Sep 26, 2010)

Simplemind said:


> Interesting idea, thanks! Your thinking is that the heaviest loading on the derailleur/cogset is going to be in the lower gears?


On my bike (Cannondale Flash) I have the short spindle and had to go with the non dished or it will hit or be way too close to my chainstay.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

ric426 said:


> I've got a BB30 XX1 crank and I put the dished GXP direct mount chainring on it because I wanted the chainline biased toward the larger cogs. Works great and no problems with shifting or the chain dropping down on backpedaling. YMMV


Interesting, whats the chainline difference in mm between the two chainrings?


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

CrozCountry said:


> Interesting, whats the chainline difference in mm between the two chainrings?


I think it's on the wolftooth website, 5-6mm from memory

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

~6mm on wolftooth webite


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

Simplemind said:


> Interesting idea, thanks! Your thinking is that the heaviest loading on the derailleur/cogset is going to be in the lower gears?


It worked on my bike because there's plenty of clearance (2013 Stumpjumper FSR) but your bike may be different. Best check it before you order anything. I did it because that put the chainline in the middle of the cassette, so I don't have any shifting issues or the chainline dropping off the 42 if I back pedal. I don't have any shifting problems lately because I haven't been able to ride since 7/2/14, but that's another story.


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## AdmChr (Oct 10, 2009)

Sweet! Now I must convert my other bike to 1x10. :thumbsup:


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey All,
If you liked the look of the C'dale direct mount, you will like the new SDMs too.
5-Spoke Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks - wolftoothcomponents.com















Also, we have some exciting news on patents and a new tool product line =)
Wolf Tooth Components Introduces New Asymmetric Tooth Design, Plus New Line of High End Tools!

More to come at Interbike!

-Brendan


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

are you eventually going to do this in a short BB30 version?



WolfTooth said:


> Hey All,
> If you liked the look of the C'dale direct mount, you will like the new SDMs too.
> 5-Spoke Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks - wolftoothcomponents.com
> 
> ...


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

WTC, can you get us a close-up pic of both old Vs new tooth profiles...to show the difference!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@ctguru, we don't have any plans for this spoke design on the BB30 at this time.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

? Does WT make a bash guard that will fit a 33/22 front chainring 2x10 speed shimano xt crankset?
I have a standard BB so cant use isog.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Gripo, here you go: 








@Trailblazer - that is a potential product for us. That would be a bit of a unique bash given the rounded outside of the spider (what would be the big ring position on a triple).


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## ssrmr2 (Jun 22, 2007)

Just ordered and installed my WT 42T. Its installed with the letters out. I am using a new chain and shifter cable and housing and new RF 30T NW. It's a nice product however I am having minor issues while tuning the shifting on the bike rack. Sometimes 1 out of 4 the chain will ride up on the points of my 42t and then when there is more chain engagement everything falls into place. Is this common? I am using 2013 sram cassette and xo type 2 DR. I have the b screw set up such that the dr doesn't bind when I shift more than 1 gear at a time to the granny. Just want to know if anyone else has had this issue.

Also WT are you guys going to make a direct mount 30 with a integrated bash or the optional bash mount?


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Friend of mine is have chain drop issues on fast bumpu double track. This is only happening to him while he is racing. He is using a wt gxp 36t with a sram x9 type two. 

I have the same derailer with a 30t and have had no issues. 

My rd is a med cage and his is a short cage.

My gut feeling is the short cage is to blame here. Hes is competing with the pros so im hoping to get to the bottom of this as his races are pretty important.

Thanks


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

The chain can drop if the chain tension is not carefully calibrated, the RD length / adjustment and also the chain length are keys, among other possibilities.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

His chain is as short as it should be (with the short cage rd).


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

machine4321 said:


> His chain is as short as it should be (with the short cage rd).


Regardless, if his drive train needs the Medium Cage RD, then his chain length may need to be modified again once installed.

So, once he has the right parts, tuning may require a chain length adjustment.


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## CAPBOY (Sep 8, 2008)

16t's coming anytime soon?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@CAPBoy - on sale and shipping Friday!

@Machine - check your buddies clutch to be sure it is working; also, make sure the drivetrain operates smoothly when backpedaling 

-Brendan


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Everything seems to be good. Im going to lend him my RD for the next race to see if that works. I
He dropped at evey race this year so at least its a consistant problem.


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## CAPBOY (Sep 8, 2008)

Thanks. Order placed.


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## ssrmr2 (Jun 22, 2007)

Just got from my first ride after the 1x10 conversion. Using WT 42t rear and30T up front. I had no issues with shift or chain climb as I mentioned in a previous post. Just want to say thanks WT for making a sweet product. 

Only issue is that I don't have the legs to ride my 37lb enduro evo expert up all the hills. 
It was 38 lbs!


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## Fsrbikr98 (May 7, 2014)

Wolftooth

Are you guys still producing the green anodized ring in 34t?

Starting my girlfriends surprise build and would like to order one.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Fsrbikr98 said:


> Wolftooth
> 
> Are you guys still producing the green anodized ring in 34t?
> 
> Starting my girlfriends surprise build and would like to order one.


Sorry, until we find a "better" green (like the bright green that many bikes are now) we aren't going to make any more green chainrings. 
We do still have the green bolts that look nice with the black ring though.


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## Tokomojo (Jan 19, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> Sorry, until we find a "better" green (like the bright green that many bikes are now) we aren't going to make any more green chainrings.
> We do still have the green bolts that look nice with the black ring though.


I hope you do offer a brighter green. My bike it's begging for some bling!


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Make a 40/42 to match my green.


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## AdmChr (Oct 10, 2009)

Time for the 1x10 conversion and 42t GC + 16t cog for my Epic. 
Unfortunately I ordered the wrong chainring (my mistake, doh!). Hopefully the correct one arrives by Friday.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Anyone snapped off teeth on their 42T? I'm not a big guy and I sheered one right off the ring.


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## AdmChr (Oct 10, 2009)

WoodstockMTB said:


> Anyone snapped off teeth on their 42T? I'm not a big guy and I sheered one right off the ring.


Wow. Well that makes me nervous since I am a big guy.


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

WoodstockMTB said:


> Anyone snapped off teeth on their 42T? I'm not a big guy and I sheered one right off the ring.


Yikes, you know what caused it? I'm thinking one reason would be the spacing between the 42T GC and the upper jockey wheel might have been too small perhaps?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey @woodstock - no, that isn't normal, but it is possible there was a bur or defect on one of the shift gate teeth though. Shoot me an email and we will get you a warranty replacement right away: [email protected]

Sorry for the issue!

-Brendan


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## r3drock (Dec 10, 2013)

Hi! 
I want to convert an Shimano XT FC-M785 2 speed crank to single WT 30 cog chainring. Do i have to mount the 30 chainring to the place where the small cog was or where the big one was? If it goes to the smallest, i am thinking to put an e*thirteen turbocharger bashguard to the place where the biggest ring was. 
Thanks


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@r3Rdrock - it goes in the big ring position and will give you a chainline of around 51mm (good for 1x).

-Brendan


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

I haven't seen many accounts of how much of a life people are getting out of their WT chainrings.

I've got about 2300 miles on mine.

(setup: 1x10, WT 32tooth, Shimano 11:36 cassette, Shimano chain, XT der. w/ clutch)

It's been fantastic, and I am very pleased overall. 

After a year of heavy riding and ~2300 miles, I've dropped my chain twice in the past week (usually never drop it). And, the smaller teeth are starting to 'shark-fin'.

How many miles are people getting out of theirs before considering a new one?


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## Bail_Monkey (May 8, 2007)

Haven't been closely following this thread regarding the WT 40 GC, so my question may be answered somewhere in the 40 pages... 

I have a Sram PG-1070, 11-36 cassette w/WT 40 GC (removed the 17t), sram X9 10 speed shifter and rear derailleur. This is on a Norco HT w/WT 32 chainring up front and KMC 10SL chain.

Has anyone have a similar setup as far as the Sram PG-1070? I am having shifting issues between the 4 cogs that are a solid piece and the next individual cog. It seems as if the spacing/gap is slightly different there and the rear derailleur shifting is sensitive because the B screw is turned in all the way for the WT GC 40. I called a LBS and the guy stated that this is typically the case when the GC is installed, he stated that the shifting is compromised somewhere within the cogs...


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## StiHacka (Feb 2, 2012)

I run an XT M771 cassette, WT 40T + 16T cogs and a KMC X9SL chain with X9 RD/shifter on my Mojo HD and the shifting is superb smooth and precise, just as good as with the original cassette. You have a great product there WT, thanks!


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## r3drock (Dec 10, 2013)

To convert to 1x10 which Shimano (SLX/XT)crank is better? The one with 2 or the one with 3 rings? Maybe the chainline for the 3x10 middle is better. 

Thanks...


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

r3drock said:


> To convert to 1x10 which Shimano (SLX/XT)crank is better? The one with 2 or the one with 3 rings? Maybe the chainline for the 3x10 middle is better.
> 
> Thanks...


You can used spacers on any crank, to allign the single ring anywhere you want.

Choose 1x or 2x or 3x crankset based on the chain tensioner and bash guard you prefer to use.
There are a lot of options but they each mate to a specific crank and your bikes bb/isog mount.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

r3drock said:


> To convert to 1x10 which Shimano (SLX/XT)crank is better? The one with 2 or the one with 3 rings? Maybe the chainline for the 3x10 middle is better.
> 
> Thanks...


If you don't have the crank and about to buy one, the easy route is SRAM X9 or XO or any crank with removeable spider. Gives you lots of options and nearly no issues.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

CrozCountry said:


> If you don't have the crank and about to buy one, the easy route is SRAM X9 or XO or any crank with removeable spider. Gives you lots of options and nearly no issues.


^ This. I picked up a brand new X9 for pretty cheap and took the spider off. They new(er) X7 also has a removable spider.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

FYI: (I think this is true)
You cant attach a bash guard to a spiderless crank though.
Spiderless cranks forces you to choose the much more expensive bash guards that attach to the BB or isog mounts.
You can spend $50 vs $200 for a bash guard depending on the compatability to crank you choose.
Also, some front gear sizes and brands are not available for the spiderless mounts.

So plan it out fully.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

CrozCountry said:


> If you don't have the crank and about to buy one, the easy route is SRAM X9 or XO or any crank with removeable spider. Gives you lots of options and nearly no issues.


Also, some of the X7's had removable spiders.. but some also didnt.. there was a discussion about it about a year ago on a competitors spiderless ring thread....


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Trail_Blazer said:


> FYI: (I think this is true)
> You cant attach a bash guard to a spiderless crank though.
> Spiderless cranks forces you to choose the much more expensive bash guards that attach to the BB or isog mounts.
> You can spend $50 vs $200 for a bash guard depending on the compatability to crank you choose.
> ...


The Wolftooth direct mount rings have holes to mount a bashguard of theirs. But you're right, it does mean you're paying a bit more.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Trail_Blazer said:


> FYI: (I think this is true)
> You cant attach a bash guard to a spiderless crank though.


Keep in mind that most spiderless cranks are spider cranks if you do not remove the spider 

Gives you both options.


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## r3drock (Dec 10, 2013)

Thanks for the answers!


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

For the record, Wolf Tooth hooked me up. I had about 300miles on my 42t and a tooth snapped off.

Let me replace with a 40t (now that I am a bit better shape).

Thanks Wolf Tooth. Great company. I have a DM 28t on my front X9 crank. A great combo I think. I like the flexibility of having a 28t. I hope to move up to a 30t for get more low end speed, but for longer, high altitude climbs out West, the 28t is perfect for a low altitude rider from VT. Also, the punchy climbs we have here in VT begs for power and I like having a bailout gear if needed.


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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

addATX said:


> I haven't seen many accounts of how much of a life people are getting out of their WT chainrings.
> 
> I've got about 2300 miles on mine.
> 
> ...


About the same experience here. And I was even using the 28T. After a year of riding at least as many miles as you did I'm starting to drop my chain. Still shifts perfectly but I'm replacing the whole drivetrain. My setup is 28T front, 11-34 9 speed with a Saint short cage derailleur on a 29er. I had only dropped my chain once or twice in the year up until the last couple of weeks.


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## stuckoften (Sep 21, 2014)

Hardly a master mechanic, so please be kind. I put Wolftooth GC42 on SB66 with XT Shadow Plus. I don't have a jockey not enough b-screw problem. I have a cable anchor bolt arm problem --hitting the GC42. Can the SB66 just not handle this? What am I doing wrong?

Thoughts? Thanks!


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## UtahJohn (Feb 6, 2014)

I have XTR Shadow + and XT Shadow + on 2 bikes (both with 42T WT rings), the XT had the same problem you are experiencing. 

Simply remove the XT Derailleur, and put a washer between the hanger and derailleur, and re-adjust the limit screws. It will then clear and work properly.


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## stuckoften (Sep 21, 2014)

Thanks. That was my thought. I'll update if successful. Off to dig-up a washer.

Edit: Washer worked. Thanks!


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## pero_dinamit (Oct 16, 2013)

I have SRAM S-1250 BB30 on my Spec Camber 2012. Is it possible to use Woolftooth direct mount chainring (short or long, have to measure it first) on it?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Direct mount will not work. The spider is not removable. You'll have to use a 104bcd chainring.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

For those that don't "Do" The Facebook (for those that do, forgive the simple repost):
Need travel tools, bike packing tools, bike touring tools, or additions to a race pit tool kitl? We decided that we did!
To that end, we started a line tools for these applications and launched them at interbike. We now have the wrenches and lockrings on our site ready to ship. These two tools will allow you to service centerlock rotors, threaded bottom brackets, and cassettes.

What make these tools unique is the low weight and magnetic coupling for various inserts (yes more inserts coming, but we love ideas from you all so keep em coming!!). The combined weight of the wrench and lockring is only 110 Grams...
Tools ? wolftoothcomponents.com

a short video on the use of them from Bike Mag might make the magnetic part more clear (about 1 min is the tools if you don't want to hear about the other stuff):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sw8wXKWXd5g#t=92


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## CAPBOY (Sep 8, 2008)

Dropping a whole lot. Got a SRAM setup and went 1 x 10, set up by my mechanic according to specs. First time, X9 Clutch jammed so we thought it was that (although it dropped numerous times without the clutch jam). Contacted SRAM and they sent a warranty part. This past weekend, VT50 and I dropped 4 times. Sometimes going downhill, sometimes uphill. 

How do you troubleshoot this?


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## TwoPumpChump (Feb 13, 2004)

I have searched for a while with no good answers. Can anyone point me in the right direction to this problem?....

Problem: chain won't drop from 40T to 36T cog when the derailleur clutch is turned "on". Works perfect with clutch in "off" position.

Specifics: Happens with both 1x and 2x cranks so not likely related to chain line or chain length. B screw is set properly, have tried different B screw settings with no result.

Equip: Wolftooth 40T on XTR 11-36 cassette, Sram 1091 chain, XTR plus long cage, RF WN chainring.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Probably the screw limits on the XTR RD. May just need a turn of the cable ferrule on the shifter.
Is the XTR Clutch adjustable?
The XT RD clutch tension is adjustable.


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## TwoPumpChump (Feb 13, 2004)

Thanks for the reply. Its not the limit screws or cable adjustment. I don't think the tension is adjustable without some kind of modification but I'll look into it... Haven't gone in there yet. For now I'm just running it with the clutch off and it works perfect.


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## dmar123 (Mar 30, 2009)

After about 3 months of riding with a 1x setup (a lot, almost everyday) I have had apx. dropped a chain 10-15 times while riding. Mostly while descending choppy sections of trail. Once it happened while ascending on a climb during a shift.

Finally put a MRP Chainguide on, don't want to worry about dropping chains anymore.

Overall I am still very happy with the 1x10 setup. Out of all the the 1X setups available nowadays I think from now on will probably always run a chain guide, just not worth it to have to stop and put a chain back on your bike.


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

dmar123 said:


> After about 3 months of riding with a 1x setup (a lot, almost everyday) I have had apx. dropped a chain 10-15 times while riding. Mostly while descending choppy sections of trail. Once it happened while ascending on a climb during a shift.
> 
> Finally put a MRP Chainguide on, don't want to worry about dropping chains anymore.
> 
> Overall I am still very happy with the 1x10 setup. Out of all the the 1X setups available nowadays I think from now on will probably always run a chain guide, just not worth it to have to stop and put a chain back on your bike.


Are you running a type 2 rear derailleur? I'm guessing not. I have never dropped a chain with one.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

I've never dropped a chain while using a narrow/wide ring and clutch derailleur either.


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## SandSpur (Mar 19, 2013)

Fastblack said:


> Are you running a type 2 rear derailleur? I'm guessing not. I have never dropped a chain with one.


I found this post by him with a picture of his bike and it looks exactly like an XTR with the clutched lever:

http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/burner-build-thread-832745-13.html#post11383566


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## Fastblack (Jul 8, 2013)

SandSpur said:


> I found this post by him with a picture of his bike and it looks exactly like an XTR with the clutched lever:
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/turner/burner-build-thread-832745-13.html#post11383566


I've seen a lot of people with a Shimano derailleur not realize they need to turn the clutch on.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## YetiSB66 (Sep 26, 2014)

I have ordered a 2015 Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon S, which will be arriving in a few weeks. Currently comes with a Sram S1400 crankset 2x10 22/34 and Shimano XT M786 GS Shadow Plus rear derailleur. I am interested in converting it to 1x10. 

Would I be correct in saying that all I would need to order would be?
1. 4-Spoke Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks 
or
2. 5-Spoke Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks

There aren't very many reviews on the new 5-spoke pattern, asymmetrical tooth design, since it is still fairly new. Was hoping for others opinions. Should I go for the new or tried and true(4-Spoke)?


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## kickhorse (Aug 3, 2013)

I have 4 of the older rings and they work flawlessly. I can't imagine that the new 5 spoke would be any different. WT makes quality products. Buy whichever one looks better to you. I'm not familiar with the S1400 crank but as long as it spiderless compatible then you should be fine.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Just put on a 5 spoke to replace this one:









Anyone seen these grooves on their narrow teeth? More prominent on every other... Here's a closer look:









In use on an X01 drivetrain for 450 miles. Chain, cassette, RD, and WTC ring all installed at the same time. Kept lubed and reasonably clean. Not sure why this happened and if it's gonna happen again...

As for the 5 spoke, I have zero miles on it, so I can't really comment, other than to say it's purdy.


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

I'm so waiting on their RF Next SL chainrings....c'mon, soon please?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Keep your eyes peeled to our social media on the interwebs... 



Gripo said:


> I'm so waiting on their RF Next SL chainrings....c'mon, soon please?


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## CAPBOY (Sep 8, 2008)

Picked the bike up from my mech last night with the second warranty replacement derailleur from SRAM. Two hour beat down on the bike. Pulling into the parking lot at the end of the ride. Chain dropped while barely peddling. Just gave up and bought a chainguide.


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## DeeZee (Jan 26, 2005)

CAPBOY said:


> Picked the bike up from my mech last night with the second warranty replacement derailleur from SRAM. Two hour beat down on the bike. Pulling into the parking lot at the end of the ride. Chain dropped while barely peddling. Just gave up and bought a chainguide.


Weird. Between my boys and me we have 4 bikes with SRAM clutch drls. All work flawlessly


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

The wife wants a lower gear than her current setup provides. (I don't really want to get in to what it too low a gear, or whether a person can ride that slowly or not.) so I'm thinking of adding a 40 or 42T cog to her 10-speed XT (and removing the 15t cog).

Can anyone say if the jump from the 36 to 42 is too large? Will the 40 be better for her as far as shift quality? 

Any other upon downsides I ought to consider? She is still running a multi-ring setup up front.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Either would be fine, 36 to 42 is a similar feel to 32 to 36 when shifting/pedalling.


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## cokratex (Jul 28, 2012)

reamer41 said:


> The wife wants a lower gear than her current setup provides. (I don't really want to get in to what it too low a gear, or whether a person can ride that slowly or not.) so I'm thinking of adding a 40 or 42T cog to her 10-speed XT (and removing the 15t cog).
> 
> Can anyone say if the jump from the 36 to 42 is too large? Will the 40 be better for her as far as shift quality?
> 
> Any other upon downsides I ought to consider? She is still running a multi-ring setup up front.


It is the 13-17 gap you need to worry about!

You haven't been reading this forum at all, have you?


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## reamer41 (Mar 26, 2007)

cokratex said:


> It is the 13-17 gap you need to worry about!
> 
> You haven't been reading this forum at all, have you?


I looked at the forum a bit, but it's over 1000 posts! The issue of needing lower gearing just came up this morning.

So from your post I take it I should get the 40 or 42 and the 16t to bridge the gap (and remove the 15 & 17.

I was hoping to avoid the added cost. Oh well. Now just have to decide 40 or 42....


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## Rone Turner (Mar 25, 2007)

Anyone running 30T with a good bashguard(BBG, Gamet)on XTR cranks? Pics?


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## r3drock (Dec 10, 2013)

My bike is under construction. i used this with SLX cranks and WT 30T:

Trident Bashguard - Superstar Components









sorry for image quality...


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

So with other GC you can remove the 11 cog and put a lock ring. Is that possible with this? If so I will be in good shape with an ok chainline.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Got first ride with the 42 in the back. Shifted great, and so happy to be back to 1x.
Will be watching for a RF next compatible chainring.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*RF Cinch compatible Direct Mount rings*

We had too many requests for a Race Face Cinch compatible ring to ignore! 













30 and 32t are in stock and shipping now. The 34t is on the way next week.
They have the chain retention you have come to expect with our tooth design as well as an optimal chainline of 49mm (vs 51 for the RF rings).
Direct Mount for Race Face Cinch ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## mtnlaurel (Nov 5, 2014)

I had a quick compatibility question, from everything I've read I think I'll be fine but I want to double check. I have Shimano Deore M625 double crankset on my bike paired with a Shimano SLX Shadow Plus rear derailleur. Everything I've read indicates that a 104BCD 30t Wolftooth chainring should work fine with my cranks with only swapping out the bolts. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@MtnLaurel,
Yep, it will bolt right on. You can use your stock bolts or our 10mm bolts if you want to add a little bling=)

-Brendan


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## mtnlaurel (Nov 5, 2014)

WolfTooth said:


> @MtnLaurel,
> Yep, it will bolt right on. You can use your stock bolts or our 10mm bolts if you want to add a little bling=)
> 
> -Brendan


Thanks for the quick reply! I definitely went with the red anodized bolts for the bling factor. It will look subtly awesome with the black chainring/cranks and red/black frame. Looking forward to getting it in the mail!


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## Gripo (May 2, 2005)

WolfTooth said:


> We had too many requests for a Race Face Cinch compatible ring to ignore!
> View attachment 943599
> View attachment 943600
> 
> 30 and 32t are in stock and shipping now.[/url]


Awesome.....I will be looking for a 28t and possible a 26t. When are they timetabled for release.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Is there any reason I can't manually switch between chainrings? I am thinking of getting a 30t because that is the smallest you have until you do a 64bcd and I can't afford a cinch right now. I think for the majority of my winter riding 30t might work. I know 26t would be best.


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## Trail_Blazer (May 30, 2012)

Manually switching gears like that would leave you with a not- ideal chain link on either ring which could lead to change drops.


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## tundratrader (Mar 5, 2010)

Wouldn't the derrileuer still do the job like it normally would?


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## YetiSB66 (Sep 26, 2014)

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Length Sizing

derailluer will pick up slack, but there is a proper or ideal chain length.

" A chain that is too long or too short can cause shifting and riding problems. However, the rear derailleur cage should be long enough to take up slack as the chain is moved between the different gear combinations. This is referred to as "total capacity", and is discussed below." Parks tools


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

Just got my Wolftooth Race Face cinch direct mount chainrings. Quality looks awesome, I cannot wait to try them out.


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Is anyone using a WT 104 30T ring on a set of current model 675 2x10 SLX cranks? I am awaiting my new cranks and I just received my WT 104 30T and I'm wondering if the round 2mm offset spacers on the 30T will simply "fall into" the bolt hole on the SLX's 104 spider? 

I currently have a RF 30T mounted on SRAM S1000 cranks, and RF uses a longer/wider 2mm spacer platform on their chainring......... I just want to make sure it will bolt up without issues when, and if the SLXs arrive from CRC.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Hey D-bone,
yes, that ring will mate perfectly with the 675. 

-Brendan


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## D Bone (Jul 20, 2014)

Thanks Brendan!!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Something small for your 104 BCD crankset =)*

Lots of folks out there have been requesting this one...
64 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## Rone Turner (Mar 25, 2007)

Brendan, still making a bash guard for your 30T? You mentioned maybe end of February. I need it. Chipped a tooth on first ride. Thought I could get over that rock. Really enjoying the 30T and 42 cog. Climbing everything I did with the 2x. Glad to be back 1x


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## mattomoto (Jan 12, 2006)

Just received my Drop-Stop for a new Shimano XTR M9020 crank. Beautiful workmanship as always Wolf Tooth. Love the simplicity Can't wait to ride it!!! :thumbsup:


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

WolfTooth said:


> Lots of folks out there have been requesting this one...
> 64 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com
> View attachment 965750


How about a 96 BCD for the new Shimano cranksets? Does the one intended for XTR work with XT and Deore cranksets?

I needed one for my wife's bike (in a hurry) so I bought a Blackspire. I've been happy with Woftooth and if you can compete I'll consider you products next time.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@dledinger - yep they are on the way. Maybe 5 weeks or so on those 96 for "compact mountain" Shimano cranksets.

@Rone - check this out =)

__
http://instagr.am/p/zbJFhpiUYU/

@Matt - looks great! It is too cold here to get on the new XTR yet, but we are looking forward to it.

-Brendan


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

Saw this on PB and was wondering when it is going to be released?! I'm wanting to go with your GC but don't want to swap out the cage on my XTR derailleur with One-Up's so I won't have to crank on my B screw.


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## MondoRides (Feb 18, 2004)

DeArman said:


> Saw this on PB and was wondering when it is going to be released?! I'm wanting to go with your GC but don't want to swap out the cage on my XTR derailleur with One-Up's so I won't have to crank on my B screw.


Looks like you can pre-order them here: the GoatLink ? Lindarets


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

I had no idea that someone had already started a thread about the GoatLink or I wouldn't have posted about it, oh well, just pre-ordered it


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks, DeArman!

You're our target customer! We're live now and should be on any number of your favorite websites shortly.

Marc L


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

That answers my question I posted in the other GoatLink thread, thanks!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Here is the press release. You can order them in both places once we have them done (in about 3 weeks).
This plot shows what it does for you








Lindarets & Wolf Tooth Components Improve Wide-Range One-by-Ten Drivetrain Performance

24 February 2015

Introducing the Lindarets x Wolf Tooth GoatLink: the simplest and most cost-effective route to increased drivetrain life and improved long-term shifting on wide-range one-by-ten drivetrains.

Conceived by Lindarets and developed with Wolf Tooth Components, the GoatLink improves chain wrap and reduces premature shifting degradation by replacing the Direct Mount link from compatible Shimano ten-speed rear derailleurs.

The US-made GoatLink installs in moments with little more than a 5mm Allen wrench. In most cases, the stock link can be removed and the GoatLink installed without the need for chain removal or additional cable or housing.

The GoatLink is optimized for use with Wolf Tooth's 40- and 42-tooth Giant Cogs and all sizes of Drop-Stop chainrings- but will work with any 11-40t or 11-42t ten-speed cassette. The GoatLink is compatible with all Shimano ten-speed Shadow+ rear derailleurs that make use of the Direct Mount intermediate link to mount to standard derailleur hangers. Direct Mount-native frames and SRAM rear derailleurs are not supported.

The GoatLink is CNC Machined in Minnesota from 7075 aluminum and comes fitted with precision stainless steel hardware. All GoatLinks are anodized black and laser etched at Wolf Tooth Components' Minneapolis facility.

GoatLinks will be available direct to consumers beginning in mid-March at Lindarets (lindarets.com) and Wolf Tooth Components (wolftoothcomponents.com) web stores. GoatLinks will be available to shops through select distributors shortly thereafter.

Technical Details (subject to finalization):

Chain Wrap at 11t:

40t: Improved by 69%

42t: Improved by 53%

Free Chain at 11t:

40t: Improved by 25%

42t: Improved by 19%

Weight: 19g

Compatibility: The GoatLink is compatible with all Shimano 10s Shadow+ rear derailleurs that make use of the Direct Mount intermediate link to mount to standard derailleur hangers. Direct Mount-native hangers and SRAM derailleurs are not supported. Shimano eleven-speed derailleurs are not supported at this time.

Discussion: All improvements are based on nominal Shimano-specification derailleur hanger geometry. An unmodified Shimano rear derailleur adjusted for the appropriate Giant Cog serves as the baseline (0%), and an unmodified rear derailleur adjusted for a 36t top cog as the target (100%). Due to variations in derailleur hanger geometry, chainstay length, chainring size, B-screw adjustment, and suspension configuration, individual results will vary.

Need More Information?

Please contact [email protected] or [email protected] for additional technical details, explanation, or images.

About Wolf Tooth Components:

Wolf Tooth Components is located in Minneapolis, Minnesota and was founded on strong engineering principles, a love for cycling, and an emphasis on high quality components made in the USA. Riders will find that our products are beautifully machined and provide unparalleled performance

About Lindarets LLC:

Better products, made better. Designed without compromise and built with the industry's most respected partners, Lindarets products are inspired by big rides and bigger mountains.

Lindarets doesn't make products that demand the rider's attention- or attempt to draw that of others. We stay clear of distracting colors, clever slogans, and unnecessary branding. What we do do is deliver the best performance and durability in the world. No questions, no excuses. Guaranteed.

Despite building products in service to play, we take our responsibilities seriously. We recognize our obligation to those who craft our products, the environment from which these products' materials come, and to the trust that you - our customers - have placed in us. While no human activity can be without impact, it is our aim to not only minimize our negative impacts but, in some small way, to leave the world better than we found it.


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## mayonays (Oct 22, 2010)

Hmm, this may be a nice alternative to the OneUp RADr cage. I was wanting to keep things all Wolf Tooth and this seems like the way to do it! I haven't had any issues with my Zee RD and 40T setup, but I'm sure shifting could be improved a bit. For such a low price, I don't see any harm in giving it a shot.


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## spec306 (Sep 30, 2007)

I apologize in advance if this has already been answered..............

I have a SRAM X01 with a 30T front on the stock spider. Is there a weight saving by changing to a direct-mount 30T chain ring with either the 4 spoke or 5 spoke design? I was unable to find the weight of just the spider anywhere.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

spec306 said:


> I apologize in advance if this has already been answered..............
> 
> I have a SRAM X01 with a 30T front on the stock spider. Is there a weight saving by changing to a direct-mount 30T chain ring with either the 4 spoke or 5 spoke design? I was unable to find the weight of just the spider anywhere.


There will be some slight weight savings...maybe 10-20g. It looks really clean too=)

-Brendan


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

Do you have an ETA for the oval rings? Spiderless SRAM and 104? What are the specs?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Spyghost - weights will be similar to our current 32 and 34 104 BCD rings. They both have threaded standoffs like our current 30.
We will have them for sale in late March. 

On the SDMs, those will be out soon after the 104s.

-Brendan


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

Oval Cannondale? Or Oval XX1-pattern rings?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## spyghost (Oct 30, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> @Spyghost - weights will be similar to our current 32 and 34 104 BCD rings. They both have threaded standoffs like our current 30.
> We will have them for sale in late March.
> 
> On the SDMs, those will be out soon after the 104s.
> ...


@wolftooth, i'm more interested in the *maximum diameter* that your oval rings will be built with. and the *resulting chain line *for both a threaded gxp or ht ii.

my frame is yelli screamy and being short chainstay, its very picky on ring combinations.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Le Duke - the Direct Mount rings will cover the XX1. Oval C'dale is possible, but we would need to see some demand for them (customer requests). Much of what we decide to do or not do is driven by emails, forums, comments, etc from you all =)


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> @Le Duke - the Direct Mount rings will cover the XX1. Oval C'dale is possible, but we would need to see some demand for them (customer requests). Much of what we decide to do or not do is driven by emails, forums, comments, etc from you all =)


I should have been more descriptive. I meant 76mm BCD, a la XX1. I have a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset running an XX1, 76mm spider.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

I just thought of something today that I didn't whenever I pre-ordered my Goat Link (not that this is going to sway me either way as I'm a pretty smooth shifter) but while this was still in prototype form, did you guys ever experience the Goat Link breaking when under pressure (like from a poor shift under torque) since it is longer than the factory Shimano B-Link?


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## EGREGOR (Jun 18, 2010)

Please make a 24t ring for cinch RaceFace system!!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

DeArman said:


> I just thought of something today that I didn't whenever I pre-ordered my Goat Link (not that this is going to sway me either way as I'm a pretty smooth shifter) but while this was still in prototype form, did you guys ever experience the Goat Link breaking when under pressure (like from a poor shift under torque) since it is longer than the factory Shimano B-Link?


Nope, it is designed to be very stiff and strong. If the GoatLink gets bent in a crash, you will have other problems too!

-Brendan


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

Nevermind.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

WolfTooth said:


> Nope, it is designed to be very stiff and strong. If the GoatLink gets bent in a crash, you will have other problems too!
> 
> -Brendan


I'd like to add that, as the GoatLink maintains your stock derailleur hanger that's where the engineered breakaway (if there is one) would be. We consciously decided _against _adding another weak link to the system.

So for us backcountry guys, that means carrying the same spare hanger that we always have. (Which reminds me- I need to order a spare hanger...)


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

1x10 mod on my Ibis Mojo HD

Wolftooth 42T GC
Shimano XT Hollowtech II crankset ( originally 3x10 )
Shimano XT cassette 11-36
Shimano XTshadow plus derailleur
Oneup Radcage
Raceface NW 30T chainring
Race Face Crank Arm Outer Tab Spacers
Raceface 12.5 mm chainring bolts
Miche 12T first position cog
Token 12T lockring
Shimano Cassette Lockring Washer for 12 tooth Cog
Sram PC 1071 Chain

I decided to Change the 11T for a 12T first position cog . I completely remove the 13T on the 11-36 XT Shimano cassett. I mostly ride in the middle and upper part of the cassette (ridding in Utah) and use the Wolftooth 42T GC as a bailout gear . This setup shifts very well... I love it. Looks super clean and lost a little overall weight.


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

Got all of my parts in today, even the Goat Link, to do my conversion. I wanted to do this conversion in such a fashion that one couldn't tell that it was done as I don't like flashy, colored GC's, they just don't look right to me. I got rid of my 30t RF ring for a 32t Wolftooth ring to move the chainline in a little to ease with the 40t. 
For the actual GC I went with the Hope T-Rex in silver and 40t to keep the b-tension down a bit for more refined shifting. I wanted the WT 40t in silver to go with everything else WT but QBP doesn't have that combo with the WT at the moment, but the Hope still works and shifts flawless though. I also used the WT 16t to close the gearing gap (works flawless!!)
I used the usual XT cassette, but went with an XTR chain.
The Goat Link is awesome! I have great chain wrap, and the shifting is spot on! The best part? You can barely tell I've done anything!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

DeArman said:


> Got all of my parts in today, even the Goat Link, to do my conversion...The Goat Link is awesome! I have great chain wrap, and the shifting is spot on! The best part? You can barely tell I've done anything!


DeArman,

Thanks for the photos and feedback! That's a clean setup- and I'm thrilled that you like it. The Lindarets Blue highlights on the frame are an especially nice touch 

Marc


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

Alright, today was the first ride with the set-up. The thing I was scared the most about with this set-up was the potential for a huge compromise in shift quality, especially with the few I've set-up for buddies (they never did them technically "correct", leading to their shift issues). I was going to do this as a "band-aid" until I buy an 11-spd setup.....but I think I've totally changed my mind! (at least for a very long time until Shimano trickles down 11-speed to XT, then I MIGHT try it lol) I honestly don't feel a difference in shift quality whatsoever. Not on the stand, not on the trail. The trails I rode today had very punchy, steep climbs, and I killed them with much more energy left over (compared to my old 11-36 setup). Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones, but I'm beyond satisfied with this set-up. :thumbsup: Here's documentation of todays ride


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## Manning (Apr 11, 2007)

^ fun trails! That section is a hoot!

Wolf tooth components content: I like my nw chain ring and top caps.


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## DeArman (Jun 11, 2014)

Manning said:


> ^ fun trails! That section is a hoot!
> 
> Wolf tooth components content: I like my nw chain ring and top caps.


It was actually my first time there, me and a few buddies drove up from the River Valley since our home trails are still slop lol


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## achuang (Mar 24, 2015)

I've just upgraded my anthem from a shimano xt 2x setup to wolftooth 32t dropstop chainring, silver 40t giant cog, shimano xt cassette and kmc x10-sl gold chain. Like Dearman I didn't want a flashy GC and wanted it to look stock. I would have gone for a silver chain but only the gold was in stock so there's a bit of bling. But the colour of the silver GC matches an XT cassette very well.

I have been riding it for about a month not completely happy with the shifting performance and was considering going back to my 2x setup which never gave me issues. While riding the shifts were not clean going to an easier gear. The derailleur would move but the chain would still be in the previous cog and there would be a clicking noise until I half clicked the shifter. I was never completely sure if it was going to shift when riding up a hill.

I ordered the lindarets wolftooth goatlink 2 weeks ago and I installed it last night. On the workstand the shifting seems noticeably better without the hesitation. I haven't taken it for a ride yet so will update after a few rides. Given the cost of the goatlink it was the most obvious choice financially because if I had gone with the Oneup Radr cage it would have cost the same as a brand new xt derailleur once I factored in exchange rates, and shipping. If the goatlink hadn't improved the shifting enough I would have eventually gone with the radr cage but wasn't in a rush to spend the money on it and to pull apart my rear derailleur.

The last 2 images show the difference in chainwrap and position of the derailleur in the 5th cog. I was able to go back to my stock b-screw with the goatlink.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Someone in this thread was asking about a ring for the new Shimano "Triple Compact" cranksets like the XT M782. You have one of these if the middle ring of your XT, SLX or Deore triple ring crankset is a 30t.

Anyway, we heard your calls and have an answer now:
96 mm Symmetrical BCD Chainrings for Shimano Compact Triple ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

That was me....THANK YOU! I think this might fit the Mongoose Vinson, also. Some folks are looking for a ring. I'll spread the word!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Placed an order for both an elliptical and a 96 BCD ring. Ran into problems with Paypal but sorted it using the regular Wolftooth checkout. Excited!


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## sennaster (Sep 21, 2006)

WT 30t and a mrp xcg to protect it.

Still waiting for my 42t to arrive for the other end


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Our foray into Ellipse chainrings*

We are now shipping the first Ellipse (or Oval) rings, and I have to say that they look really nice (beautiful machining per the expectation with our products)! The picture is of the first ones coming off the engraver. 
Come and get em if you have been waiting, or if you are curious, just buy one to try it. Trying one of these is the most afforable but truely different component you can try on a bike IMO. I too was a skeptic until I tried them...
Elliptical 104 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com

SDMs and others will follow. We definitely listen to the voice of the customer so keep the requests coming!

note that they will all be black and laser engraved like this:


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

What about oval rings for Race Face cinch cranks? That would be great!


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

randan said:


> What about oval rings for Race Face cinch cranks? That would be great!


They're coming! I commented the exact same thing on their Facebook page and that's the response I got


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Great news, thank you!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

New WT goodies today....a 96BCD 30T and a 104BCD 34T oval.









Always wanted to try an oval just for the heck of it. I mounted it up quick and spun around the yard and up and down the street at various cadences. Not sure what to say yet except it doesn't feel much different. Other reviews I've read indicated a bounce at certain RPMs, or an odd feeling that took a ride or two to get used to. I'm not getting any of that. Feels very natural and smooth.

Won't be able to hit any singletrack until Monday and see how it does on climbs. One benefit I often hear is increased traction in the sketchy stuff. Looking forward to it.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

dledinger said:


> New WT goodies today....a 96BCD 30T and a 104BCD 34T oval.
> 
> View attachment 978368
> 
> ...


I am curious about the Oval... please keep us posted. Now get out and ride !!!! Hahahah


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Interesting observation and exactly our design intent! We went with a shade less ovality than most use (~1 less). This makes the feel more natural coming from a round ring, but still carries all the benefits of an oval ring.

I think you will love the off road performance, as that is where it really shined for us.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

WolfTooth said:


> Interesting observation and exactly our design intent! We went with a shade less ovality than most use because we wanted a more (~1 less). This makes the feel more natural coming from a round ring, but still carries all the benefits of an oval ring.
> 
> I think you will love the off road performance, as that is where it really shined for us.


I hope so. If not, it's still fun to give it a shot.

I also confirmed tonight that the Mongoose Vinson cranks are 96BCD. Bolts right up.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

First ride on the oval ring today. Not sure if it's all placebo effect or what, but it felt absolutely great!

The swap was 34T round for 34T oval.

I picked the hilliest single track we have local and got 15 miles in. FWIW, I'm coming of a 5 week dry spell after collarbone surgery. This is only my second ride of any significance. Last week I rode the same distance on the same trail. The time off could influence my perception of the trail, but it sure hasn't made me faster or stronger.

My observations:
- Spinning up the hills seems easier and smoother. It felt far easier to climb the hills that have challenged me in the past.
- The first few times I hit steep hills I began planning a shift for somewhere along the way, like I normally would. Nope, never happened. In every case it was the same gear all the way to the top. It felt great like that.
- I was riding with other people and a couple times I lost all my momentum mid-hill when someone stumbled over a root or what not. I ended up mashing a bit in those cases to avoid a shift under load. I felt far more capable even in the wrong gear. It was much easier to muscle myself out of a jam than it's ever been. Also, under the same conditions the tire seemed much less prone to slipping when I got out of the saddle. Very planted feeling and smooth delivery.
- On the flats and downhills it feels absolutely normal, all of my observations are limited to the hills. It doesn't "feel" any shape other than perfectly round, but it definitely does feel easier on the climbs.

I'll continue to ride it and see how it goes. I'm curious if I'll find any drawbacks eventually that take away from my perceived gains. And even if I do, it's still been fun.


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## Ultraman mike (Mar 20, 2013)

dledinger said:


> First ride on the oval ring today. Not sure if it's all placebo effect or what, but it felt absolutely great!
> 
> The swap was 34T round for 34T oval.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you liked it!! Does the 34T oval feel like a 34T circle.
Some companies are saying your 34T oval shoukd feel like a 32T on the climbs... thanks for your input !!!


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

When I hopped on the bike the first day I thought I'd feel some sort of pulsing, bobbing, fast/slow through the spin or something. Nope. It just feels round. Perfectly smooth and the roundest-of-round feeling rotations. Nothing like what I anticipated. There's nothing at all strange, unusual, odd or different feeling about it. A couple friends spun around on it and noticed the same thing.

The lack of a change of feeling kind of dampened my enthusiasm and led me to believe that the oval was so slight or insignificant that it would have no noticeable impact on the ride. On the trail I almost immediately forgot all about the ring until we hit the hills. 

I have read AB posts and other commentary that suggest what you said: a 34 oval should feel like a 32 round when climbing. 

I'll tell you this in response...despite the same tooth count I was almost always one gear higher gear on the climbs, spinning away, and climbing faster and feeling much stronger than usual all the way to the top.

I'm going to ride it as is for a couple weeks, then maybe I'll swap in the round 34, or even a 32, and see what I notice then. Should be interesting.


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## Bike Therapy (Jul 12, 2013)

I just ordered a goat link with a 30t chain ring and a few other items. Im really interested in reviews on the goat link. Should I really expect my bike to shift like it did before? I like having a 1X10 with a 42T extended GC but the shifting suffered. Does anyone here have it already installed?


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## euro-trash (Feb 9, 2008)

Bike Therapy said:


> I just ordered a goat link with a 30t chain ring and a few other items. Im really interested in reviews on the goat link. Should I really expect my bike to shift like it did before? I like having a 1X10 with a 42T extended GC but the shifting suffered. Does anyone here have it already installed?


I'm very pleased with mine. At minimum it 'halves the gap' to the factory setup shifting (32x11-42 for me). For $20 it's well worth it. Plus it only took 5 minutes to install--you can't beat it.


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## Bike Therapy (Jul 12, 2013)

euro-trash said:


> I'm very pleased with mine. At minimum it 'halves the gap' to the factory setup shifting (32x11-42 for me). For $20 it's well worth it. Plus it only took 5 minutes to install--you can't beat it.


Thanks for the reply. Would you say that it delivered 80% of the shifting performance back? Maybe 90%. Is it less?

Thanks


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## Barman1 (Jan 8, 2014)

Just finished installing a 30t direct mount on my SRAM XO. It looks great and was a good fit, should work well with the 11-36 cassette.
Only one problem...

Where's the sticker? 
I guess that Race Face decal will have to remain on the top tube. :smilewinkgrin:


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## Bike Therapy (Jul 12, 2013)

I never thought I would ever be that guy but I guess today I will be. I have never had a bad experience with a bike product because I always research the hell out of stuff before buying but when I saw the Goat Link I thought why wait. Everything I have bought from Wolftooth is nothing short of amazing. Wolftooth, why tarnish you brand with great products building a great reputation and risk it with putting out a product that really does nothing like the Goat Link? It does not fix a problem but puts a band aid on it. My 2014 Pivot 249 Carbon doesn't shift any better...at all. The only difference is that the b screw does not need to be adjusted all thee way in. I feel that its a $20.00 piece of metal that promotes your brand but does nothing to fix the shifting. Please don't get me wrong. I own 2 of your chain rings in 30T and 32T, bolts, 2 GC42 cogs on 2 different set ups and other smaller components. My Sram X9 Rear Der shifts better than the Shimano Xt with the Goat Link. You have a very unsatisfied customer. I didn't get an invoice with this. Please PM me and advise if I can get a refund.


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## Havinfun (Mar 18, 2015)

Hello,

i have ordered a 26t Wolf Tooth direct mount sprocket for my bike, a Specialized a epic Expert WC, and I am worried about chain clearance.

Anyone done this??? Know for sure the chain clears the stay???

I created a thread under Specialized before finding this thread, even though I had done about a dozen searches and did not find an answer or this thread.

Thanks for helping.


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## Thatshowiroll (Jan 30, 2009)

Havinfun said:


> Hello,
> 
> i have ordered a 26t Wolf Tooth direct mount sprocket for my bike, a Specialized a epic Expert WC, and I am worried about chain clearance.
> 
> ...


I had the same problem as you. I installed a 34t DM on my Scalpel, but chainline sucked. In order to adjust/shim for a better chainline, I had to compromise and install a smaller 32t ring.
To their credit, I emailed Wolf Tooth at the time, and they gave me the actual Outer Diameter size in Millimeters of the 32t ring to compare for chainstay clearance.
A suggestion to Wolf Tooth, would be to add this dimensional info on their website.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Bike Therapy said:


> ...Goat Link? It does not fix a problem but puts a band aid on it. My 2014 Pivot 249 Carbon doesn't shift any better...at all. The only difference is that the b screw does not need to be adjusted all thee way in. I feel that its a $20.00 piece of metal that promotes your brand but does nothing to fix the shifting. Please don't get me wrong. I own 2 of your chain rings in 30T and 32T, bolts, 2 GC42 cogs on 2 different set ups and other smaller components. My Sram X9 Rear Der shifts better than the Shimano Xt with the Goat Link. You have a very unsatisfied customer. I didn't get an invoice with this. Please PM me and advise if I can get a refund.


Bike Therapy,

I'm sorry that you are disappointed with your GoatLink. If you bought yours from the Lindarets website, you are of course covered by our 110% satisfaction guarantee- just respond to your e-mailed invoice for return instructions. If you ordered from Wolf Tooth or through a shop or distributor, their return policies will apply.

What we have tried to emphasize since the GoatLink's release is that the product's primary function is to improve chain wrap (by more than half). Free chain, which we feel is the main shifting-related metric, improves by about 20-25%- which may or may not be noticeable depending on your particular setup.

It's by reducing wear-induced degradation (500, 1,000, or 1,500 miles down the road) that long-term shifting is noticeably better than the status quo. Because the chain doesn't wear as quickly, it shifts more like new for longer than without. If you have -or anyone else has- questions, please refer to the "Technical Details," "Compatibility," and "Notes" sections of our GoatLink page or use our contact form to get in touch.

To your point about not receiving an invoice: as a company that places the environment high among our responsibilities, we do not print copies of our e-mail invoices when shipping. That was a conscious decision made to reduce waste and simplify order fulfillment- don't worry, we maintain records of all products sold and can find your order if you can't.

Again, I'm sorry that the GoatLink didn't meet your expectations. I'm confident that we, Wolf Tooth, or your local shop will take care of you- if not, be sure to let me know. If you have any other questions, please respond to your invoice or use our contact form to get in touch directly.

Marc Lindarets


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@ Thatshowiroll - good input on the dimensional thing and I think that would be some good info to add. You aren't the first to ask and there are some very tight chainstay clearances out there (niner, Cdale, Sworks to name a few) where this info is useful.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Another 20 miles of singletrack on my oval yesterday. Initial perceptions still ringing true.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*XX1 or XO1 Replacement 42t cog*

Have a $400 XX1 or X01 cassette with a worn out Aluminum 42t cog? We hear you... and have a solution! 
These Wolf Tooth Components replacement 42t cogs will be available for sale in about a week and shipping in 2 weeks. We will be doing silver, black, red, and maybe blue.
We do have plans for a 44t cog, but want to do more studying on the shifting. The 44t only adds about 1/4 of a shift percentage wise so we figured most folks would just want a direct replacement.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> Have a $400 XX1 or X01 cassette with a worn out Aluminum 42t cog? We hear you... and have a solution!
> These Wolf Tooth Components replacement 42t cogs will be available for sale in about a week and shipping in 2 weeks. We will be doing silver, black, red, and maybe blue.
> We do have plans for a 44t cog, but want to do more studying on the shifting. The 44t only adds about 1/4 of a shift percentage wise so we figured most folks would just want a direct replacement.
> View attachment 981321
> View attachment 981322


Sounds awesome. Pricing?

Any ETA on larger steel GXP rings? Specifically waiting for a 28t.


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## machine4321 (Jun 3, 2011)

Good on Wolftooth for listening to the market. This could make the jump to xx1 paletable for me!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@kragu - $89 (same as GC as cost to manf is basically the same)

Stainless 28t will be in June. You might find it interesting that if we just kept the same design the Stainless ring weight would be 3x that of Al. We using FEA (a really cool design optimization tool) to reduce this with a goal of only 2x the weight but as strong and stiff or more than the Al.

Maybe I can post up some FEA pics for you all =)


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## PlanB (Nov 22, 2007)

Nice job on the replacement XX1 cog! This is the sort of thing I love to see in any industry -- true problem solving. Stay fast and flexible with this sort of thing and you'll always be in demand.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

Hey guys just need some advice. I have the XT 2x10 drivetrain 24/38 up front and 11/36 cassette. I primarily use the small chainring and keep it on 24 and I don't use the last 4-5 low gears on the cassette. Would a 30 tooth chainring be too big a jump? Not looking to mess with the cassette if I don't have to. Maybe I'll actually use those last 5 gears now?


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

30-32 i had no problems at all climbing im now on 34 its for me the tipping point on a 11-36.. so id say go 30 youll be fine


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Paulsmith55 said:


> Hey guys just need some advice. I have the XT 2x10 drivetrain 24/38 up front and 11/36 cassette. I primarily use the small chainring and keep it on 24 and I don't use the last 4-5 low gears on the cassette. Would a 30 tooth chainring be too big a jump? Not looking to mess with the cassette if I don't have to. Maybe I'll actually use those last 5 gears now?


You didn't say what wheel size, but I think a 30t is a good place to start. If you have to go down, then you have one to advance to.



Njhardrock said:


> 30-32 i had no problems at all climbing im now on 34 its for me the tipping point on a 11-36.. so id say go 30 youll be fine


Agreed.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

29er, didn't think about wheel size


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Paulsmith55 said:


> 29er, didn't think about wheel size


Then you might consider starting on a 28t given that your cassette only goes up to 36t.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

Thanks for the help!


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## srsiri23w (Mar 27, 2013)

Would the goat link help reduce wear on a cassette using a 9t cog?


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Paulsmith55 said:


> 29er, didn't think about wheel size


Wheel size is a crucial variable. I would second the 28T recommendation for 29" wheel even 27.5"with a 36T as your low gear cog. But then I'm a weeny

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

srsiri23w said:


> Would the goat link help reduce wear on a cassette using a 9t cog?


That's a great question! I'm assuming that you're running a Canfield-style 9-36, is that correct?

If so, the answer is yes- slightly. Because that cog is so tiny, you're going to have pretty quick wear and shifting at the bottom of the cassette won't be great (as you already know). The GoatLink will help a bit, but it's not possible to get the sort of engagement you would see with an 11t. Shifting should be slightly better- but again not quite to stock levels.

Probably not the answer you were looking for, but I hope it helps!


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Is anyone using these on XX1 cranks (direct mount) instead of the XX1 rings? Any extra life out of them?

The XX1 rings don't last very long.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

i have a wolf tooth direct mount on my xx1 crank. also 42t gc rear. 1800 miles in CO, UT, WY on my norco sight. Still in great shape. 

Buddy has same bike (norco sight carbon), approx 800 miles. Sram ring, xx1 crank. Just had to replace the front ring and chain as wear was so bad.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

kamper11 said:


> i have a wolf tooth direct mount on my xx1 crank. also 42t gc rear. 1800 miles in CO, UT, WY on my norco sight. Still in great shape.
> 
> Buddy has same bike (norco sight carbon), approx 800 miles. Sram ring, xx1 crank. Just had to replace the front ring and chain as wear was so bad.


Fantastic, just what I wanted to hear.

Are there different "versions" of direct mount or can I order any 32T ring I want and it'll fit my XX1 crank?


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

There are different versions; GXP vs. BB30. They provide a good explanation of each, as it pertains to chain line, on their website.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

If my frame is PF92, does that mean I have a GXP crank?

For some reason, bottom brackets just mystify me. Everything else makes total sense.


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## srsiri23w (Mar 27, 2013)

Marc Lindarets said:


> That's a great question! I'm assuming that you're running a Canfield-style 9-36, is that correct?
> 
> If so, the answer is yes- slightly. Because that cog is so tiny, you're going to have pretty quick wear and shifting at the bottom of the cassette won't be great (as you already know). The GoatLink will help a bit, but it's not possible to get the sort of engagement you would see with an 11t. Shifting should be slightly better- but again not quite to stock levels.
> 
> Probably not the answer you were looking for, but I hope it helps!


That question was actually inspired by the Canfield micro drive hub. I always wanted to try their micro hub but unfortunately they stopped production. Last thing I heard from them was they are refining the design so maybe in the future. What brought up the idea again was seeing coverage from sea otter. E13 is releasing a similar 9t cassette that works with an XD hub body instead of the Capreo hub body.


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

srsiri23w said:


> That question was actually inspired by the Canfield micro drive hub. I always wanted to try their micro hub but unfortunately they stopped production. Last thing I heard from them was they are refining the design so maybe in the future. What brought up the idea again was seeing coverage from sea otter. E13 is releasing a similar 9t cassette that works with an XD hub body instead of the Capreo hub body.


I wonder whether these tiny 9 &
10T cogs are a good choice for high gearing. They sound like they could be more trouble than they're worth. Currently I determine my highest gear at whatever chainring is suitable with an 11T cog and the wheel size of my bike. Then the questions are whether I can fit a large tooth low cog on my cassette, whether my chain and dérailleur can handle it and whether the resulting gear is low enough for the worst climbing I do.

Until recently, with a single chainring you had to sacrifice gearing at either the high or low end, pick your poison. But now, theoretically, at least, the mega high range cassettes from 9 or 10T to 40 or 42T coupled with the large selection available of direct mount chainrings available should go a long way of not all the way,'toward eliminating this dilemma. If I could rely on the real world performance of a 9 or 10T cog, I could drop 2 teeth off my chainring and still have all the high gear and with a 40t cog all the low gear I would realistically ever need. Thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

A 9-42 cassette would provide some pretty insane range... after spending a year on an 11-36 cassette and wishing I had just a hair more range (28T ring meant I spun out, 30T ring meant I wanted lower for climbs). Then I got XTR 11-40 and shortly after got X01 10-42. I hardly ever use the 10 or the 42 but it's nice to have. Couldn't really imagine needing more and I have some pretty steep stuff here.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

dwt said:


> I wonder whether these tiny 9 &
> 10T cogs are a good choice for high gearing. They sound like they could be more trouble than they're worth. Currently I determine my highest gear at whatever chainring is suitable with an 11T cog and the wheel size of my bike. Then the questions are whether I can fit a large tooth low cog on my cassette, whether my chain and dérailleur can handle it and whether the resulting gear is low enough for the worst climbing I do.
> 
> Until recently, with a single chainring you had to sacrifice gearing at either the high or low end, pick your poison. But now, theoretically, at least, the mega high range cassettes from 9 or 10T to 40 or 42T coupled with the large selection available of direct mount chainrings available should go a long way of not all the way,'toward eliminating this dilemma. If I could rely on the real world performance of a 9 or 10T cog, I could drop 2 teeth off my chainring and still have all the high gear and with a 40t cog all the low gear I would realistically ever need. Thoughts?
> ...


Given that we're seeing less drivetrain wear with one-by drivetrains, those small cogs might be something worth exploring. Canfield's system was interesting in that it used an existing freehub standard (Shimano's Capreo) and provided a near-XX1 range with a 36t big cog (400%, vs. 420%). If someone were to do a 9-38, then you'd equal SRAM's 1x11 drivetrains with what a lot of folks are finding to be a a pretty useful range. 9-40 would be wider than a 24-32 x 11-36.

Advantages include lower weight and smaller physical steps for the chain. Disadvantages include fewer load-bearing teeth (170deg of wrap gets you an average of 5.2t in an 11, 4.2t in a 9). The feeling of pedaling a polygon increases as you get smaller, with the cog creating a rougher and rougher approximation of a circle. On the mountain bike, where that high gear is used rarely, it may not be that much of an issue- but it is worth mentioning. Finally, at some point you're going to run out of space for the axle and cassette fixing system (E13 have an interesting workaround for this).

Exciting times!


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## Adroit Rider (Oct 26, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> If my frame is PF92, does that mean I have a GXP crank?
> 
> For some reason, bottom brackets just mystify me. Everything else makes total sense.


I just put a Gxp direct mount on my sram xo bb30 crank. Chain Line is nearly spot on but chain stay clearance is tight.

The bb30 ring is an increase of 6mm of outboard dishing which will help with chain stay clearance and might improve chain line.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Adroit Rider said:


> I just put a Gxp direct mount on my sram xo bb30 crank. Chain Line is nearly spot on but chain stay clearance is tight.
> 
> The bb30 ring is an increase of 6mm of outboard dishing which will help with chain stay clearance and might improve chain line.


My frame won't even take rings larger than 34T on a 1x setup. It's TIGHT up there, even the 32T I'm using only has a few mm of clearance, so I want to make sure I'm not doing anything funky.


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## Adroit Rider (Oct 26, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> My frame won't even take rings larger than 34T on a 1x setup. It's TIGHT up there, even the 32T I'm using only has a few mm of clearance, so I want to make sure I'm not doing anything funky.


Order the bb30 ring.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

I don't need any extra clearance, I just need it to not have LESS clearance  I don't ride when it's muddy so I don't need more than I have unless I wanted to run a 36T ring (I don't)

Wouldn't moving it 6mm outboard give it a crap chainline in the climbing gears? I spend a lot of time in the 28, 32, 36, 42 cogs... on my last bike I ran a 64BCD single ring to give better chainline for the climbing gears.


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## Adroit Rider (Oct 26, 2004)

Alias530 said:


> I don't need any extra clearance, I just need it to not have LESS clearance  I don't ride when it's muddy so I don't need more than I have unless I wanted to run a 36T ring (I don't)
> 
> Wouldn't moving it 6mm outboard give it a crap chainline in the climbing gears? I spend a lot of time in the 28, 32, 36, 42 cogs... on my last bike I ran a 64BCD single ring to give better chainline for the climbing gears.


That's where it is a crap shoot for me to judge, you may need the 6mm to fit your frame. I would contact WT and let them know your frame/crank/Bb and see what they say.

I got real nervous when installing my crank and seeing the chain stay gap shrink with every turn of the wrench.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

I have a few rides on my new Wolftooth 30t chainring with an XT 11-36 cassette, and it is wonderful! I was worried about losing range but I still don't use the lowest gear going uphill. No chain drops at all; over 2 foot drops, creek crossings and log overs. Great product and I would definitely recommend!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

*Special Edition Lindarets x Wolf Tooth GoatKit*

Apologies about the cross-post, but seeing as this is the hub of all things Wolf Tooth...

For anyone still on the 1x10 fence or looking to upgrade another bike in the stable, we've just released an edition of 115 pewter-anodized GoatKits:







The kit includes everything needed to increase the range of your Shimano ten-speed drivetrain: a specially anodized and marked WolfTooth GC40 or GC42, stainless 16T cog, and color-matched GoatLink. Because hey, we thought that it would be neat.

The GoatKit is proudly made in the USA and sells for $115 shipped (with a partial postage credit for international buyers)- $10 less than if you were to pick up the parts separately. Only available at lindarets.com/goatkit10.


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## sean.designs.bikes (May 30, 2009)

WolfTooth said:


> @kragu - $89 (same as GC as cost to manf is basically the same)
> 
> Stainless 28t will be in June. You might find it interesting that if we just kept the same design the Stainless ring weight would be 3x that of Al. We using FEA (a really cool design optimization tool) to reduce this with a goal of only 2x the weight but as strong and stiff or more than the Al.
> 
> Maybe I can post up some FEA pics for you all =)


I'd geek out over those FEA pics if you could share them  (not sarcasm)


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## Co-opski (Oct 24, 2013)

More wolf tooth. Used miche 12T and dropped 11T and 13T. My old cassette I dropped the 11T only.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*96 BCD Bash Ring*







A new product for those running a Shimano "triple compact" (M782, M672, M622, M612) that ship on many bikes, we now offer a bash ring for you!
96 BCD Bash Ring for Shimano Compact Triple ? wolftoothcomponents.com


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

WolfTooth said:


> View attachment 986340
> A new product for those running a Shimano "triple compact" (M782, M672, M622, M612) that ship on many bikes, we now offer a bash ring for you!
> 96 BCD Bash Ring for Shimano Compact Triple ? wolftoothcomponents.com


What will you be releasing the oval cinch rings?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@ Viiking - about 4 weeks on the oval cinch.
-Brendan


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

WolfTooth said:


> @ Viiking - about 4 weeks on the oval cinch.
> -Brendan


I have an Evil Following (PF92 frame) with XX1 crank. Do I need the BB30 or GXP model direct mount ring? I didn't build the bike so I don't know what model crank this is but I think PF92 means it isn't BB30, but I don't see "GXP" anywhere on the crank either. It does say "Q168" though...


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

Hey Guys,

I think I might need a little more chain wrap. Here is my situation.

I am using a 40T on a Shimano XT M771 cassette with a 16T mixed in. I have a 28T chainring up front. It all moves on a Sram type 2 medium cage X9 derailleur. I roll on Stans wheels (they were right; getting the CG on that driver was tight).

At first I think I had the chain too short (it allowed forward movement of the derailleur, but not much...1/4-1/2 of an inch on a Trek Superfly 100). I was concerned that I might rip the RD off when the suspension compressed fully while in the CG 40T. I added two chain links (photos above) and now have a better distance (6-7mm) from the CG to the upper jokey wheel (the B-screw is adjusted), but I am not sure if the clutch will be strong enough to keep me from dropping the chain off the crank ring when going fast over rocky terrain (which is everywhere in northern NM).

Do you recommend a long cage derailleur for more chain wrap? It seems like this could be a better set up for better retention. I don't know and am asking for your insights.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

Beast master- 3 things possibly; Goat Link to move deraiileur back, long cage deraiileur and longer chain.


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

Try the deraiileur first and see if you need to do the other 2 options


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

I have ridden this set up 4 or 5 times in the past week (3-4 times with shorter chain and 1 time with longer chain, as photographed); in a variety of conditions and terrain; from super fast over chunky baby heads; killer super steeps up/down; classic XC single track; a good and fair testing.

One other point of interest: I am running a Sram NW direct mount 28T on the 180mm cranks which replaced the 30bcd WT XT 180mm crank set.

Here is what I have to say: The Wolf Tooth products are really, really good. They are well considered and constructed. I prefer their "drop stop" front rings to the Sram. However, I am over-gear out back. I don't need a 20.3 gear-inch rear setup for climbing. (I guess I am more fit than I thought. Hmmm, then why the hell aren't I faster?! OK, more training....!) A 10 speed rear derailleur is designed for a maximum 36T cassette. This is not a problem of the Wolf Tooth product line. They are making great products which work, with compromises (like super hi torque on the rear derailleur and the internals of the rear hub as well as shifting smoothness and chain wrap). If you want a 1x10 setup and don't want to spend hundreds more for a 1x11 (all of which are designed by folks with huge amounts of money for R&D), the Wolf Tooth stuff is fantastic. That said, I will be removing the CG 40T and the 16T and going back to the 11-36 cassette (for better shifting, better chain wrap, less concern for a DNF in a race because I ripped the RD off, and a better gear percentage for me). I will run-out this Sram 28T front ring and go back to the WT product. I don't think the Sram will last very long so I will be back fairly soon.

I wish Wolf Tooth had the kind of financial resources as Shimano or Sram and could create a whole drive train. It would be incredible!


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## Paulsmith55 (Jan 16, 2015)

I like that solution, simpler is usually better. I have a 30t Wolftooth chainring and 11-36 Shimano cassette and rarely find the need for lower gearing on my 29er.


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## beastmaster (Sep 19, 2012)

OK, I have a slightly used 40T Shimano cassette specific CG and 16T cog that I would like to sell. They have 4 or 5 rides of 15 to 20 miles each, no more than 100 miles total at the very most. How about $50 for the pair? $5 to mail? $55 to you? You can pay me via paypal. PM me if you are interested. Thanks!!

SOLD!!


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

3 questions for the Woolfftooth boys (I had 4 questions, but before I finished typing the 1st 3, I forgot the 4th, getting old and all):

When do you anticipate having DM 32t Specialized/Lightning rings back in stock?

Are you planning oval DM Spec/Light rings in 32 and 34?

My RD is an XTR M981 without a clutch. It appears that the Goatlink will still fit. Can you confirm?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@BlownCivic - 
1. This week...probably Wed. They were at plating as of Friday.
2. Not right now. Lots of others in queue before we do that one. IF specialized decided to start using that crankset again then we might.
3. GoatLinks are compatible with any rear derailleur that has the 8mm thick b-knuckle. We haven't been able to pin down model numbers because the change to the thicker b-knuckle was stealthily made after they started bending=-/ Anyway, just measure it as shown on the product page and it will be obvious as the old non-compatible generation were about 5-6 mm thick: GoatLink - wolftoothcomponents.com

-Brendan


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## Adroit Rider (Oct 26, 2004)

Barely fits, 30t sram gxp ring on short spindle bb30 XO crank.

Chain Line is nearly perfect.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

*Useful chart if considering 1x*

This is a chart we put together that is similar to some others out there, but we thought the y-axis units would resonate well with folks:








__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/608354883457175552


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

How about some stuff in green?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Like a green GCX42 or 44?


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

Just installed a WT 40T GC on my son's bike...30T ring, XT derailleur and cassette. Also using the longer B-screw. Everything seems to be okay shift-wise...EXCEPT...I cannot get the chain to drop from the 32 to 28 to 24. Double shft is the only way I can get it down. I've tried everything I can think of. Is the problem still B tension? Is this sort of thing where the GoatLink comes into it's own? Kind of weird that the problem is up in that part of the cassette. Tried searching but didn't come up with much and these threads are LONG! Any helpful advice appreciated.


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## krshome (May 6, 2014)

rwitte said:


> Just installed a WT 40T GC on my son's bike...30T ring, XT derailleur and cassette. Also using the longer B-screw. Everything seems to be okay shift-wise...EXCEPT...I cannot get the chain to drop from the 32 to 28 to 24. Double shft is the only way I can get it down. I've tried everything I can think of. Is the problem still B tension? Is this sort of thing where the GoatLink comes into it's own? Kind of weird that the problem is up in that part of the cassette. Tried searching but didn't come up with much and these threads are LONG! Any helpful advice appreciated.


I just installed WT 30 chainring and a 42/16 combo cogs, the RD is an XTR with the longer B-screw and everything is shifting smoothly for me. I did however start from scratch adjusting the RD so it would be spot on.


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## offrhodes42 (May 1, 2009)

rwitte said:


> Just installed a WT 40T GC on my son's bike...30T ring, XT derailleur and cassette. Also using the longer B-screw. Everything seems to be okay shift-wise...EXCEPT...I cannot get the chain to drop from the 32 to 28 to 24. Double shft is the only way I can get it down. I've tried everything I can think of. Is the problem still B tension? Is this sort of thing where the GoatLink comes into it's own? Kind of weird that the problem is up in that part of the cassette. Tried searching but didn't come up with much and these threads are LONG! Any helpful advice appreciated.


Is the hanger straight?


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## rwitte (Apr 6, 2004)

offrhodes42 said:


> Is the hanger straight?


Best I can tell. Shifting was perfect before the mod.

Will likely go back and start from scratch as suggested and see what happens.

Thanks!


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## clone185 (Nov 3, 2011)

I have Shimano SLX 2x10 cranks and what I would like to know is, will a 28T 64bcd work together with a 34T 104bcd. I would mainly use 28T for hills rides but it would be nice to be able to manually change between the two for when I ride on flatter tracks. I don't want to go down the 42T/32T combo path at this stage as I prefer to use my 11-36 cassette. Looking at the pictures of the rings it looks like the offset might put them too close together. Has anyone tried this?


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Any plans for a Direct Mount Chainring to accommodate the Boost 148 offset?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@clone185 - this won't work unless you have a triple crankset. The 64 BCD is dished over (towards the big ring) about 4mm so the ring to ring spacing is too tight. On a triple this can be done with the 64 and running the 104 in the big ring position, but the chainline on the 104 ring won't be good.


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## clone185 (Nov 3, 2011)

WolfTooth said:


> @clone185 - this won't work unless you have a triple crankset. The 64 BCD is dished over (towards the big ring) about 4mm so the ring to ring spacing is too tight. On a triple this can be done with the 64 and running the 104 in the big ring position, but the chainline on the 104 ring won't be good.


Thanks, I thought that might be the case.


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## kee (Jun 6, 2004)

Will Wolftooth be releasing a 28T chain ring for the XTR M9000/9020 1x conversion ? The various online stores show that the smallest available is 30T


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

kee said:


> Will Wolftooth be releasing a 28T chain ring for the XTR M9000/9020 1x conversion ? The various online stores show that the smallest available is 30T


I'm too lazy to look up the BCD of the new XTR stuff but smallest ring size is usually dictated by BCD. For example, 104bcd means you can't get smaller than 30, 110bcd means you can't get smaller than 34, etc.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Kee - a 28t won't fit on a 96 BCD with sufficient material thickness (in Aluminum at least), which is why 30t is the smallest.

-Brendan


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## kee (Jun 6, 2004)

Brendan, thank you for the fast reply.


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

@WolfTooth: Any plans to release an 11 speed GoatLink? Marc Lindarets wrote something about it here (post number 155) , but the information is somehow vague. Thank you.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

randan said:


> @WolfTooth: Any plans to release an 11 speed GoatLink? Marc Lindarets wrote something about it here (post number 155) , but the information is somehow vague. Thank you.


Randan,

It's something we're working on for sure- but are still a little ways out. Don't be surprised to see something by Interbike, though!


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Perfect, thank you!


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

Alias530 said:


> I'm too lazy to look up the BCD of the new XTR stuff but smallest ring size is usually dictated by BCD. For example, 104bcd means you can't get smaller than 30, 110bcd means you can't get smaller than 34, etc.


That's my experience. I have an old school 1x9 on my hard tail (27.5 wheels with clunky bashwhich to retain the chain). Had to file down the spider to get the crank to fit 30T CR without the chain contacting CR bolts

When narrow/wide CR's came out, converted my 27.5 FS to 1X10 using SRAM spline crank and WTC direct mount 30T CR. No brainer that. Can switch to 28t if wide range cassette can't do the job low gear wise. Spline direct mount is the best way to go 1X IMO. Much more versatility available for CR's. Good old WTC

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## doabackflip (Feb 26, 2014)

Just went with wolftooth 32T and replaced my sunrace cassette with the sram 1030 11-36. Ditched the sram x7 long cage for the x9 med. Cage. Quick ride last night and wow! Felt, shifted and sounds so smooth.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Nice work! Looks great! Are you considering an expander? If you do....X9 works great with one. I've set up my wife's bike with the AB 40T expander on a 1030 cassette and it works flawlessly. Better than the two XT setups we have.


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## doabackflip (Feb 26, 2014)

right now after 2 rides im pretty comfortable with out a expander. maybe down the road. good to know that the combo i have will work good with one.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

I've been wondering about the elliptical rings. Would they help reduce knee and ankle strain or be harder on them? I'm recovering from a broken ankle and was wondering if an elliptical ring would be a good or bad idea. Left a voice message at WTC asking about them, but never got a reply. I'm sure they're busy with other things.


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

ric426 said:


> I've been wondering about the elliptical rings. Would they help reduce knee and ankle strain or be harder on them? I'm recovering from a broken ankle and was wondering if an elliptical ring would be a good or bad idea. Left a voice message at WTC asking about them, but never got a reply. I'm sure they're busy with other things.


I've got a 32t on the fatbike

My knees etc. are ok, but when researching elliptical rings, people with knee issues seemed to find them better, from what I read


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Ric - sorry we didn't respond to the vmail...we actually didn't get it so I am not sure what happened. Either way, we always respond to email questions quickly!

Yes, people with knee and ankle pain usually find the Elliptical rings to help especially with lower cadence power climbing.

Cheers,
Brendan


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

thanks ctguru and Brendon,
NBD on the vmail, but that elevator music was tough to endure until I could leave a message. ;o)

In any case I just ordered a 30T elliptical GXP ring. My knee and ankle should be much happier. Am I correct that the elliptical GXP is dished like the regular GXP Drop Stops? Looks like it in the photos.


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## backinmysaddle (Jul 27, 2011)

I had been riding a 28t wolftooth direct mount front ring on my 1x11 SRAM setup. It was great for drop stop, never had a chain drop the entire 8 months I was using. But man did it wear out fast! I started to hear increasing noise when pedaling under pressure and when my LBS mechanics looked at it they showed me lots of wear on the outside of the ring. 

I think aluminum may be the wrong metal for these, especially for the small ones where it likely means there will be a lot of high torque pedaling (aka, big climbers buy these). I see SRAM is releasing plain old steel rings soon, those are cheap and going to wear better. Since I couldnt wait, I found wolftooth had a 24t (no, that's not a typo) stainless ring for direct mount. Not cheap at all, but I grabbed one and have taken 2 rides, very smooth riding and nice to have a new unworn ring again!

BTW, at least some of the blame for the problem with the early wear probably falls on the chain line. I see the manufacturers are moving to this new boost hub standard, and one of the things it seems to be doing is fixing the chain line for gears 1/2/3, which with the current hub are clearly creating a pretty sharp chain line. That is probably why just the outside of my front ring wore out so much. Starting to feel like a guinea pig having bought 1x11 so early!


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

Yep, the current ones are dished like the standard SDMs. We will be making flat ones for BB30 Short spindle users too!


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## lastplace29er (Apr 29, 2012)

WT I'm looking for a little input. My current set is 

'12 Camber Comp 29er, 
30T up front (1.5 yrs no dropped chain) 
Sram PG-1030 11-36, 
Shamino XT M780 (non-plus) RD. Med cage. 10 sp

The current set up works great, a little chain slap but the stay is well protected. I want to add 40T & 16T. 

Is it doable with my current set up?


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## JMac47 (Apr 23, 2004)

I think the only question really needed is if the 1030 has loose cogs to be able to swap out the new ones. Some models aren't. You may have to lengthen chain unless it's long from a previous 2x setup.


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## lastplace29er (Apr 29, 2012)

Wow, I don't know this. Will check before ordering. Thanks

"1030 has loose cogs, some models aren't."


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

1030 does have loose cogs.


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## lastplace29er (Apr 29, 2012)

I worked that WT 30T this weekend


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## jacksonlui (Aug 15, 2015)

I'm interested in using the WT 30T instead of the M8000 30T to save 40g however it's been said that:
1. aluminum is not as durable as steel
2. narrow wide has more friction than DCE

Is there any truth to this or is this even measurable to the point that it matters? 

I'm more concerned with the durability factor. I don't want to run a bash guard but I don't want to walk home if I land wrong on a rock.

thanks
Jack


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

jacksonlui said:


> I'm interested in using the WT 30T instead of the M8000 30T to save 40g however it's been said that:
> 1. aluminum is not as durable as steel
> 2. narrow wide has more friction than DCE
> 
> ...


Concerning #1, generally speaking, aluminum does wear out faster than steel.

You're probably not going to notice anything with #2. Tons of pro XC racers are on 1x11 setups and they wouldn't be if friction was enough to matter.


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## sxotty (Nov 4, 2005)

Anyone used the 44T cog replacement for an xx1 cassette? I was just curious and searching the thread for 44t found no matches. Possible the search string is too short though.


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

sxotty said:


> Anyone used the 44T cog replacement for an xx1 cassette? I was just curious and searching the thread for 44t found no matches. Possible the search string is too short though.


I've used the OneUp version on my fat bike as that's what my local shop had in stock, works great. It was a completely new cassette I put it on though

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ric426 (Jul 13, 2007)

WolfTooth said:


> Yes, people with knee and ankle pain usually find the Elliptical rings to help especially with lower cadence power climbing.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brendan


After a few rides with the elliptical ring I totally agree. My bum knee and ankle are much happier. I noticed the smoother pedal stroke immediately.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Has anyone tried both the Wolftooth and the Absolute Black oval rings? Debating between the two for an x01 setup


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## Simplemind (Jul 17, 2006)

Alias530 said:


> Has anyone tried both the Wolftooth and the Absolute Black oval rings? Debating between the two for an x01 setup


I'm running the AB Oval on an XX1. The company advice was to use the same tooth number as your old ring. I think I could step up to the next tooth size and feel the same as my old round, so yes I think the oval does make a difference.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Simplemind said:


> I'm running the AB Oval on an XX1. The company advice was to use the same tooth number as your old ring. I think I could step up to the next tooth size and feel the same as my old round, so yes I think the oval does make a difference.


Sorry if I wasn't clear--I'm sold on the benefits of oval, just not sure which brand to go with


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

Alias530 said:


> Sorry if I wasn't clear--I'm sold on the benefits of oval, just not sure which brand to go with


The clocking of the different ovals will be to the preference of the rider...so it's kinda like a crap shoot. I'd also look into the offset of the rings too.


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## dledinger (Nov 29, 2014)

Alias530 said:


> Has anyone tried both the Wolftooth and the Absolute Black oval rings? Debating between the two for an x01 setup


I have....but different size rings on two very different bikes (FS 10 speed and a rigid SS). The FS has a Wolftooth 34 and the SS has an AB 32T. Both work great and from what I can tell feel very similar. I'm also waiting on a Garabruk 30T for my wife's bike. Shipped a couple days ago.

Totally sold on the ovals in this family. When I get around to it every bike in the house will have one.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok been trying to find info on the goatlink in here but too tired it seems. Just checking if anyone has used them and making sure they hold up. I went extended 10s cassette and shifting isn't bad with my zee rd for the most part but having the same (just much less of it) as other Shimano rd users. And th this Zee isn't but a few months old. Want to get this sorted before I go after an oval ring.


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

My GoatLink has been flawless all summer. It's just a chunk of aluminum with a couple screws through it. Nothing complicated to go wrong really.


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

I just re-rigged my 2x10 setup with a WT 1x10 config with great success. I'm running a 30T oval ring, with the GC42 cog and I can honestly say it's working great. I used to redline in a 24t granny on the 36t cog, it just didn't suit my legs very well. The 30 x 42 ratio give me enough speed and momentum to keep spinning up the hills nicely. 

The oval ring makes pedalling feel a little more fluid, I think this is a great step forward in technology.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

BlownCivic said:


> My GoatLink has been flawless all summer. It's just a chunk of aluminum with a couple screws through it. Nothing complicated to go wrong really.


Thanks, got one on the way. Was just skeptical of aluminum for that as Shimano uses steel best I can tell (haven't checked with a magnet though)


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

tigris99 said:


> Thanks, got one on the way. Was just skeptical of aluminum for that as Shimano uses steel best I can tell (haven't checked with a magnet though)


I haven't checked either, but I'm pretty certain the Shimano piece is aluminum. The Goat Link is slightly heavier than the Shimano one.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Their steel . But the goatlink is as thick as the stock one and space combined, plenty strong. Was afraid it was thin like the stock one and used the stock spacer.

And it fixed my problem, my zee shifts great on the new sunrace 11-40 cassette. Pretty stoked now no more crappy shifting onto the 40 and down onto the 13 and 11t.










Hats of to you guys at WT, I dont have to have a specific Shimano derailleur (medium cage) to fix the shifting. Was able to keep my zee rd and get it shifting quite nicely. Now to decide what im ordering next . Thinking an oval ring so I can see what all the fuss is about.


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## Bos (Feb 13, 2013)

Why are Zee mechs so popular with people doing 1x10s? I would think people would use SLX or XT if they wanted shimano. I used sram X9 because that's what came with the bike and it works very well without the need for goatlink or OneUP cages. The Zees do look cool though.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

Bos said:


> Why are Zee mechs so popular with people doing 1x10s? I would think people would use SLX or XT if they wanted shimano. I used sram X9 because that's what came with the bike and it works very well without the need for goatlink or OneUP cages. The Zees do look cool though.


Probably running what they already have. If you are trying to set up a wide range 1x10 and you don't already have a derailleur, the only good choice unless you want to spend XTR money is the XT M8000 GS RD. There is nothing else that simply bolts on and works as well, Shimano or Sram. M8000/M9000 are the only derailleurs designed for a 42t cog that work perfectly with 10 speed shifters. Everything else is some sort of compromise, although some are very minor and can still be made to work well.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Bos said:


> Why are Zee mechs so popular with people doing 1x10s? I would think people would use SLX or XT if they wanted shimano. I used sram X9 because that's what came with the bike and it works very well without the need for goatlink or OneUP cages. The Zees do look cool though.


Only short cage option. Better ground clearance.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

Two questions...

1.) Has anyone tried both the Absolute Black ring and the WolfTooth oval ring? Does anyone have a preference?
2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

Alias530 said:


> Two questions...
> 
> 1.) Has anyone tried both the Absolute Black ring and the WolfTooth oval ring? Does anyone have a preference?
> 2.) Has anyone had issues with these rings burning up derailleur clutches? I read one report of this happening...


I can't speak on the AB ring but I've been running a WT oval for a few hundred miles and I love it. It's been typical wolf tooth quality, several rock strikes and its still perfectly straight. Pedalling does seem easier on low rpm grunt climbs, high rpm isn't as noticeable

Never heard of the clutch burning issue and I don't think that's even possible. The movement at the RD is so minimal I don't think it'd cause any issue. Been running mine with an XO1 drivetrain

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

8iking VIIking said:


> I can't speak on the AB ring but I've been running a WT oval for a few hundred miles and I love it. It's been typical wolf tooth quality, several rock strikes and its still perfectly straight. Pedalling does seem easier on low rpm grunt climbs, high rpm isn't as noticeable
> 
> Never heard of the clutch burning issue and I don't think that's even possible. The movement at the RD is so minimal I don't think it'd cause any issue. Been running mine with an XO1 drivetrain
> 
> Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk


I figured the guy who said it burned up his clutch was full of it or it was a coincidence but wanted to make sure. X01 derailleurs aren't cheap and I'd prefer not to replace mine


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## randan (May 18, 2005)

Look what the mailman brought today! Can't wait to install those goodies:



Edit: this project is going to be postponed. I just destroyed my X01 cassette (stripped all the teeth of the lockring, so the cassette cannot be removed from the XD driver). Got to find sone strong booze first....


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

randan said:


> Edit: this project is going to be postponed. I just destroyed my X01 cassette (stripped all the teeth of the lockring, so the cassette cannot be removed from the XD driver). Got to find sone strong booze first....


Ouch. Let us know how you wind up getting it off...


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## matadorCE (Jun 26, 2013)

I'm going 1x11 and got the WT oval ring. I would have gone with a 30T round chainring but I went with a 32T oval since it's supposed to be a bit easier on the climbs right? Or should I have gone with a 30T oval?


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## dwt (Jul 19, 2009)

matadorCE said:


> I'm going 1x11 and got the WT oval ring. I would have gone with a 30T round chainring but I went with a 32T oval since it's supposed to be a bit easier on the climbs right? Or should I have gone with a 30T oval?


If I get the oval idea correctly, a 32 oval will feel and act like a 30 round climbing, but a 32 round hammering. Best of both worlds

This is from the Absolute Black website: http://www.absoluteblack.cc/oval-104bcd-chainring.html

AB is another small manufacturer in direct competition with WTC. Sorry if this hijacks the thread

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

30T oval power stroke is close to 32. If you go for 32 oval its closer to 34. So you may actually want a size down and not up.
Check out this review, "feels like I am pushing a bigger ring"


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## BlownCivic (Sep 12, 2006)

Not my experience at all. I find my 32t oval Wolftooth ring to be a lot better for spinning as well as easier on my knees when grinding a climb. I'd say it's much easier to climb than my round 32t.


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## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

I put together my first 1X11 drivetrain recently, and opted for the WT 30t oval ring. With an 11-42 XT cassette, I feel a bit under-geared. In my cruising (10-15mph) gears I'm using the bottom 3rd (smallest cogs) of the cassette. in the 30/42 combo at a comfortable cadence, I am moving at just under 4mph. It definitely feels lower effort than a 32t round ring to me, though it's on a new bike so some of that may just be that this bike pedals better than my old one. Anyway, I bought a 34t ring to replace it--haven't installed it yet tho I hope to soon. We'll see if that's too big I guess--if so, 32t it is!


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

BlownCivic said:


> Not my experience at all. I find my 32t oval Wolftooth ring to be a lot better for spinning as well as easier on my knees when grinding a climb. I'd say it's much easier to climb than my round 32t.


Yep. An oval of the same tooth count as a round ring will feel easier, especially when climbing.
The gearing down of the dead part of the stroke is a life saver on the steep climbs on a single speed.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

We have a lot to be thankful for, and as an extension of that, we are offering 15% off now through tomorrow to all our customers and direct dealers. 
Retail customers, enter this discount code at checkout for 15% off: WolfToothBlackFri2015
Direct Dealers, place your order and contact Brendan for the additional discount.


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## PhilGau (Sep 20, 2010)

Any chance of larger sized 5-bolt 94mm bcd WT rings on the horizon? Say 38t , 40t, or 42t ?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

PhilGau said:


> Any chance of larger sized 5-bolt 94mm bcd WT rings on the horizon? Say 38t , 40t, or 42t ?


@PhilGau - no plans for those. However, like we always say and as history shows, if enough requests come in we always listen to customer demand!


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## SirHades (Jan 9, 2015)

.. Never mind. RTFM :madman:


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

SirHades said:


> The code doesn't work here. Or is there another place than the "ambassador code" field to enter it?
> (Here's the error message : Coupon code not found. Please try again.)


Worked for me

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

A Goat link compability question please.
Can I use the Goatlink 10p speed with M8000 rear derailleur and 10 speed cassette ?

Thanks


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## FT251 (Dec 7, 2014)

never mind! I got the discount code to work, going to try a 28T elliptical DM Cinch for my Next Crank. Currently have a 30T NW of yours on it.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

TalMiz,

There's no need to run a GoatLink with a M8000 rear derailleur and 10s 11-40 or 11-42t cassette- it does fine on its own.

Marc


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

Cool thanks.


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## bapski (Jul 27, 2012)

arghhh.. too late for the "WolfToothBlackFri2015" code(?)....

would have been useful for my Elliptical 104 BCD Chainring.... should have paid more attention... hopefully another one comes along christmas time...


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

Which direct mount chainrings go on SRAM S-2200 PF30 crank with sram 11 speed drive train, not boost (on Specialized Enduro carbon 2015)?

GXP or BB30 Short Spindle?


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## FT251 (Dec 7, 2014)

*Thanks for the Black Friday dealio!*

Going to try the 28T oval out.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

A question for those who running thier 42T cog with Zee rear derailleur and a Goatlink.
Mean while I'm waiting for my M8000 rear derailleur I installed a Goatlink for 10 speed.
Is the chain looks too tight ? 








Thanks


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

happy new year, wolftooth!

just a note of interest: i'm using your fine chainrings and cogs on several bikes, and if you are considerign doing a 190 back end/'flipped' offset Cinch ring for fat bikes i'd be buying several! thanks!


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## ctguru (Dec 31, 2008)

dRjOn said:


> happy new year, wolftooth!
> 
> just a note of interest: i'm using your fine chainrings and cogs on several bikes, and if you are considerign doing a 190 back end/'flipped' offset Cinch ring for fat bikes i'd be buying several! thanks!


What problem would these rings solve?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@drjon - VERY soon we will have a solution...not perfectly round though 

@ctguru - there are "normal" fat cranks that are designed around a 170 rear hub spacing and longer spindle cranks that are designed around 190 rear hub spacing. For most people the shorter spindle (and thus narrower q-factor) are easier on their knees and hips. Fortunately, many of the 190 rear hub spacing bike actually have clearance for the shorter spindle crankset. However, this requires a flat to reverse dished ring depending on the crankset. Our BB30 flat rings work well with the SRAM Fat cranks on a 190 bike. Because our rings can't be "flipped" like race face (our asymmetric tooth profile makes this not work well) we have to make a reversed dish ring specifically for this application. So, if you don't have a 190 rear hub fat bike with clearance for a 170 rear hub crankset it won't apply to you. That said, a LOT of fat bikes coming out now are in this format: Trek, Spec, Pivot, 907 to name a few.


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## jct (Mar 26, 2004)

after some hemming and hawing i decided to ditch the 2x10 and switch to a 1x10. I just ordered up a 32t oval and some 10mm bolts for my XT cranks. I'll keep the standard 11-36 cassette in the rear for now. i never left the 38t up front riding all over santa cruz.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

@wolftooth nice! Eyes peeled!


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## stratmosphere (May 22, 2007)

Thrawn said:


> Any plans for a Direct Mount Chainring to accommodate the Boost 148 offset?


Just putting in my $.02 on this. I need a Boost 3mm offset ring for a Scott Genius Plus [edit]. There are tire clearance issues. I would love to run a 0mm offset ring but it would be super close.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Stratmospere - just to clarify you need a 3mm outward dished ring for your BB30 XX1, X01, or X1 crankset to clear the plus tire?


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## stratmosphere (May 22, 2007)

WolfTooth said:


> @Stratmospere - just to clarify you need a 3mm outward dished ring for your BB30 XX1, X01, or X1 crankset to clear the plus tire?


Yes, the bike has a stock SRAM GX 30T crank with a giant BOOST 148 printed on the crank spider. I have about a 5mm gap between the chain and tire when in the 42T rear. I used hex wrenches as feeler gauges of a sort. I would love to run a 0mm offset because for my riding the chainline would be better. But...the rear tire is a 2.8 Schwalbe on a 38mm rim. Which means the tire will only get closer with a 3.0 if I try it. So...the boost ring is likely the best option. I ran a 6Fattie with a 0mm offset and I thought the shifting was better in the larger rings. Never measured the chain/tire gap. Probably it was close.


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

Loving the elliptical 30T, especially on the fatbike. Smooths out the pedal pulses. I don't have a smooth cadence so I definitely notice the benefit of running an oval/elliptical chainring.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@stratmospere - Optimization of chainline...interesting.

We are never sitting still


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## RetroS (Oct 17, 2006)

Wolf Tooth, tried your products on previous 1x 10 hack. Now want to upgrade my new Trek EX. Any discount code your willing to share. It all adds up. Thx.


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## pvajko (Aug 15, 2013)

Wolftooth,

just installed an XT M8000 RD and 11-42 cassette with your SRAM direct mount 28T (the one with the 6mm offset). Chain drops from 42t when back pedaling, is there any remedy known for this?

I have 142mm rear hub but plenty of clearance, could easily get away with the 46mm chainline stated as "optimal" for the 11 speed cassette on your page about the Boost chainline.

Thanks.


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@pvajko - what you are finding is pretty common on the shimano 11 speed stuff. This is due to the fact that the 42 (or 40) cog on the cassette is dished into the spokes making the effective chainline in the big cog worse. A 46-47mm chainline would likely fix your problem.

For now, run what you have as there is no other solution. I suggest you keep your eyes pealed for some interesting product releases from us this summer


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Should we be stocking up on WTC rings before SRAM serves Wolftooth a cease and desist letter? These are my favorite after market components so I hope this won't affect Wolftooth negatively.


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## pvajko (Aug 15, 2013)

Thank you WolfTooth, will live with it then, looking forward to the summer...


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

I've run a 1x10 XT setup with a only a GC42 and a longer B-screw for the longest time, and within 4 bikes for the past two years. Built up another 1x10 XT for a new bike, but this time threw in a GoatLink and 16T cog for good measure. 

However, I'm experience shifting issues with the 16T - it won't shift up to the 13T cog, the chain just rattles on the edge of the 16T. A couple of turns on the barrel adjuster allowed the shift to finally happen but of course resulted in shifting problems when shifting down to the 19T cog. 

I made sure that the 16T was installed correctly as per instructions, i have a pretty new chain and cassette AND my rear derailleur and hanger is not bent. What seems to be the issue here? Is there a break-in period for the 16T before shifting gets smoother? Apologies if this has been asked before in this thread.


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## TalMiz (Sep 17, 2013)

aybee said:


> I've run a 1x10 XT setup with a only a GC42 and a longer B-screw for the longest time, and within 4 bikes for the past two years. Built up another 1x10 XT for a new bike, but this time threw in a GoatLink and 16T cog for good measure.
> 
> However, I'm experience shifting issues with the 16T - it won't shift up to the 13T cog, the chain just rattles on the edge of the 16T. A couple of turns on the barrel adjuster allowed the shift to finally happen but of course resulted in shifting problems when shifting down to the 19T cog.
> 
> I made sure that the 16T was installed correctly as per instructions, i have a pretty new chain and cassette AND my rear derailleur and hanger is not bent. What seems to be the issue here? Is there a break-in period for the 16T before shifting gets smoother? Apologies if this has been asked before in this thread.


I had the same issue. I couldn't found any solution so I removed the 11T. Now it's working perfect and I don't miss the 11T cog.

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk


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## mattomoto (Jan 12, 2006)

WolfTooth said:


> I suggest you keep your eyes pealed for some interesting product releases from us this summer


:thumbsup:


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## aybee (Feb 2, 2014)

TalMiz said:


> I had the same issue. I couldn't found any solution so I removed the 11T. Now it's working perfect and I don't miss the 11T cog.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk


Might as well do this, thanks!


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

*Which ring for enduro?*



> Which direct mount chainrings go on SRAM S-2200 PF30 crank with sram 11 speed drive train, not boost (on Specialized Enduro carbon 2015)?
> 
> GXP or BB30 Short Spindle?


Asking this again, it is not clear from the diagram and text (one leads to S2200 -> BB30 and the other X01 -> GXP)


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## bapesta (Feb 12, 2008)

pvajko said:


> Wolftooth,
> 
> just installed an XT M8000 RD and 11-42 cassette with your SRAM direct mount 28T (the one with the 6mm offset). Chain drops from 42t when back pedaling, is there any remedy known for this?
> 
> ...


have you tried moving the bottom bracket spacer to non-drive side? it's gonna move the chainline by 2,5mm


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

We had a customer email us with a request to post this for him.. who are we to say no? =)

"I'm sorry. I can't figure where to post the following. Please help.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wolf Tooth 28 tooth Elliptical Chain Ring
I'm a fringe mountain biker and a member of the mountain bike unit in the Santa Monica Mountains. There were hills I should be able to climb but couldn't. On my Trek Fuel EX 8, the low gear wasn't low enough and I found the 3 front rings awkward to use. Converting to a Race Face Cinch crank would allow a 28 tooth front installation which would remove awkwardness but, after reviewing some successful uses of elliptical chain rings, I searched for one in the 28 tooth size. To date only, Wolf Tooth could deliver it and with Drop Stop technology. Also, converting to a Wolf Tooth 42 rear cog greatly improved the gear problem. I can now climb the hills with 2 curious observations: No bounce and power all around the circle.
Normally when nearing the quitting point on the hill, I'd exert maximum effort by bouncing down on the peddle stroke. This need stopped. I even unlocked my rear shock and noticed no bounce there. My rotation was smoother and consistent.
I also noticed that I was applying pressure just after the 12 o'clock position and pulling up with my down foot since it felt productive and perhaps made rotation smoother, consistent and more comfortable. I also reduced my time on a mountain training course by a questionable 10%. I hope to read more about Elliptical Chain Rings on mountain bikes in the future.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Gerald Capodieci (kd6et) Woodland Hills, CA USA"


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## bapesta (Feb 12, 2008)

pvajko said:


> Wolftooth,
> 
> just installed an XT M8000 RD and 11-42 cassette with your SRAM direct mount 28T (the one with the 6mm offset). Chain drops from 42t when back pedaling, is there any remedy known for this?
> 
> ...





bapesta said:


> have you tried moving the bottom bracket spacer to non-drive side? it's gonna move the chainline by 2,5mm


wolftooth, do you have anything to say about my idea? I'm planning to do a 1x11 conversion, will be running the XT crank with wolftooth chainring XT M8000


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

@Bapesta - the M8000 11 speed cassette has an even worse chainline than your 1x10 conversion in the biggest cog because the biggest cog on 11 speed Shimano mtbk cassettes is dished over the spokes (one of the ways they made 11 speeds fit on a 10 speed freehub). That said, our chainring sits 2mm further in than the stock XT one so it will have less of an issue with backpedaling. In our testing and customers feedback, we have found that the backpedaling does not affect trail performance (i.e dropping down when ratcheting over tech terrain).

Also, as noted if you can move your chainline in with any spindle spacers, that will help.


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## pvajko (Aug 15, 2013)

Not sure what spacer you mean, mine is at least 10mm, if I move that to the non drive side the crank won't clear the chainstay...


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## ZEROUNO (Jun 7, 2015)

On the crankset on the top, the chainring is assembled correctly. The one under, the assembling is not correct. This because the cinch system, have more than one ideal engaging point...


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## rossp (Mar 7, 2005)

Hoping this is a good spot for this q.... been slowing revamping my 1x10 drivetrain with new XT derailleur, chain etc. All running and shifting smooth with the goatlink which is good however I am feeling some rattling/bouncing on rough trail which seems odd for a brand new clutch derailleur (same was happening on the old one, even after tightening the clutch). When I take the chain off, it seems there is no tension between the goatlink and the derailleur and it can move around, which makes me think that's what's moving in rough terrain. Any ideas/tips/thoughts? 

thanks


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## LCW (May 5, 2008)

ZEROUNO said:


> View attachment 1055349
> 
> On the crankset on the top, the chainring is assembled correctly. The one under, the assembling is not correct. This because the cinch system, have more than one ideal engaging point...


There's a dot on the WT ring to line up with the crank arm.


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## furryfootstool (Jun 16, 2016)

TalMiz said:


> I had the same issue. I couldn't found any solution so I removed the 11T. Now it's working perfect and I don't miss the 11T cog.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk


I had the same problem. I ended up with a 12t and dropped the 11 and 13. so now its 12-15-17-19.... and it shifts perfectly. i don't even notice that the 11 is gone. is an option as well


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## rossp (Mar 7, 2005)

rossp said:


> Hoping this is a good spot for this q.... been slowing revamping my 1x10 drivetrain with new XT derailleur, chain etc. All running and shifting smooth with the goatlink which is good however I am feeling some rattling/bouncing on rough trail which seems odd for a brand new clutch derailleur (same was happening on the old one, even after tightening the clutch). When I take the chain off, it seems there is no tension between the goatlink and the derailleur and it can move around, which makes me think that's what's moving in rough terrain. Any ideas/tips/thoughts?
> 
> thanks


After some more tweaking, the noise is the same with or without the goat link so I think it's specific to the derailleur and nothing WT specific - posted a seperate thread here... Shimano XT Shadow Plus - derailleur noise- Mtbr.com


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

rossp said:


> Hoping this is a good spot for this q.... been slowing revamping my 1x10 drivetrain with new XT derailleur, chain etc. All running and shifting smooth with the goatlink which is good however I am feeling some rattling/bouncing on rough trail which seems odd for a brand new clutch derailleur (same was happening on the old one, even after tightening the clutch). When I take the chain off, it seems there is no tension between the goatlink and the derailleur and it can move around, which makes me think that's what's moving in rough terrain. Any ideas/tips/thoughts?
> 
> thanks


Ross,

Just as with the stock link, the derailleur should move freely about the Direct Mount pivot. My first guess is that you might have too much chain- have you sized it to big-big plus two links?

Marc


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## livewr06 (Nov 7, 2013)

Does anyone have experience with the 45T upgrade/add to an 11-40 XTR 11 speed?
I have an Ibis HD3 with XTR 1X 11-40 and a RF 30T ring. I am nearing the end of this drivetrains wear life and I'm wondering which setup I should go with to get a better climbing gear.
I am also curious about the difference in the chainline between RF and Wolftooth. I've read over some of this thread and am I correct that the WT lessens the chain line to 49mm as compared to RFs 51mm?


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## Psycho1 (Aug 26, 2014)

I can veryify the wolftooth has a much better chain line. I went from a 32 wolftooth to a 30 RF. Was going cheap to make sure 30 is what I wanted. Wolftooth is a much nicer chain ring.


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## Chad_M (Jul 11, 2013)

A few years late to the 1x10 conversion, but just wanted to give props to wolf tooth 32T 104BCD chainring on my Stumpjumper Carbon HT with XT clutch RD. Went on well, chainline seems pretty good, and so far performance has been all positive.


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## Biggus Duckus (Apr 5, 2016)

I noticed that the Tanpan section on Wolf Tooth now mentions that it's not compatible with Tiagra 4700. Not only do I have the 4700, but I'm pretty sure that disclaimer was not there when I bought it five months ago.

I'm not mad, but does that explain why I could never quite get my shifting to 100%? I always have a gear or two where there is a little bit of rub on the next cog, and it can be finicky depending on if I give just enough shifting power to click the shifter, or whether I give it a good strong press.

If the reason is the 4700, then I guess I see a new crankset in my future... (or maybe Gevenalle shifters if not)


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## yuppie (Mar 29, 2013)

Does WolfTooth have a 28T oval chainring that will fit 148BOOST spacing? Asking for my Hightower C with RaceFace Aeffect crankset.


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## BiciMapas (Sep 18, 2010)

*45t GC cog for shimano 11 speed and Shimano CS-M7000 SLX Cassette*

Hi,

@WolfTooth,

Is the 45t GC cog for shimano 11 speed compatible with the Shimano CS-M7000 SLX 11-42 Cassette?

Thanks


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## axl886 (Oct 15, 2012)

So I just installed the goat-link, and changed to a 11-42 Sunrace cassette, new chain and WT 32t ring. Previous setup was a XT cass with WT 42t CG and RF 32t ring.

Encountered quite a bit of hesitancy shifting into the 11t. 

Just to check: I should ONLY be tweaking it by turning in the B-screw, correct? Do I need to mess with the pre-existing cable tension or the H/L limits at all? 

Any advice appreciated, thanks.


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## VonFalkenhausen (Jun 26, 2014)

axl886 said:


> So I just installed the goat-link, and changed to a 11-42 Sunrace cassette, new chain and WT 32t ring. Previous setup was a XT cass with WT 42t CG and RF 32t ring.
> 
> Encountered quite a bit of hesitancy shifting into the 11t.
> 
> ...


When you change that many parts, actually anything related to the cassette or derailleur, every adjustment is on the table. Your existing settings will probably be close but I would expect they all could use a tweek.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

VonFalkenhausen said:


> When you change that many parts, actually anything related to the cassette or derailleur, every adjustment is on the table. Your existing settings will probably be close but I would expect they all could use a tweek.


VonFalkenhausen is right: Full instructions are here.


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## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

Picked up a stick on my Road-link equipped gravel bike not long ago. Locked the back wheel right up! I got off to check it out and it looked bad-the rear derailer was completely detached and stretched out like a chicken wing in the upper run of chain, the rear cable housing was wrapped around the chain, and the chain was so tensioned that it didn't look as though I could even roll out coasting or convert to singlespeed limp home mode. Well, my friend and I (a riding buddy will wait while you work on your bike, a friend will get his fingers greasy right in there with you!) managed to get the chain off the front ring, giving us enough slack to unwind the mess in back. Once we got the rear derailer untangled, it became clear that the road link has sheared right in half. For the first time since we stopped, I had a little hope that it might be rideable. So we removed the two pieces of the link, and bolted the rear derailer directly to the hanger and it shifted and ran perfectly. I couldn't use the two biggest cogs of course, but that was a small sacrifice. I don't know if the road link was designed to shear off that way, but it saved my derailer and my ride...

I wish I'd gotten a pic of the aftermath but I was so concerned that it wasn't fixable that it never occurred to me. It was really bad looking-cant' believe it worked out so well! I've already replaced the road link-great little product there!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

SteveF said:


> I wish I'd gotten a pic of the aftermath but I was so concerned that it wasn't fixable that it never occurred to me. It was really bad looking-cant' believe it worked out so well! I've already replaced the road link-great little product there!


Steve,
Thanks for the post! We work really hard to anticipate failure modes and ways in which they can be accommodated. With the RoadLink it made sense to try to insert a 'fuse' into the system and I'm glad that it worked as intended- and that your buddy was there to help you get out of the woods without too much trouble


----------



## SteveF (Mar 5, 2004)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Steve,
> Thanks for the post! We work really hard to anticipate failure modes and ways in which they can be accommodated. With the RoadLink it made sense to try to insert a 'fuse' into the system and I'm glad that it worked as intended- and that your buddy was there to help you get out of the woods without too much trouble


It's a thoughtful design touch and I sure appreciate it! Love your oval chainrings, too...


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## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

*Best derailleur setup for Wolftooth 11-45 cassette?*

I'm going to be upgrading from 10 to 11 speed. My current 1x10 setup is a 30T chainring with SRAM X9 derailleur and 11-42 SRAM/Wolftooth GC42 cassette (11-13-15-19-22-25-28-32-36-42)

My current setup does the trick, but my usual rides have several punchy climbs, and I use my top 2 gears (36 and 42T sprockets) a lot. The 24-28, 28-32, 32-46 shifts (4-tooth) are nice and smooth, but then the 6 tooth shift from 36-42 is noticeably different than the prior three 4-tooth shifts.

I was thinking of going to one of the new Wolftooth 49T mega-rings, but that involves a big 7 tooth jump from the 42T cog, and I don't think I'd have much use for that big of a bailout gear.

I've decided to go with a Shimano XT 11-42 cassette with a Wolftooth 45T cog for a spread of 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-37-42-45. This will give me a 37T climbing cog (which is close to the 36 I'm used to), a 5-tooth shift from 37 to 42 (which should be smoother compared to the 6-tooth shift from 36 to 42 that I'm used to), plus that extra 45T cog for a little extra granny action after the 42T cog, and that will be a super-smooth 3 tooth shift from 42 to 45.

So the question is, for the best shifting performance, what should I go with? (I will be staying with the 30T front chainring)

-stock XT GS (mid-cage) derailleur
-stock XT SGS (long cage) derailleur
-XT GS derailleur with Wolfcage
-XT GS derailleur with goatlink 11?


----------



## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

zuuds said:


> So the question is, for the best shifting performance, what should I go with? (I will be staying with the 30T front chainring)
> 
> -stock XT GS (mid-cage) derailleur
> -stock XT SGS (long cage) derailleur
> ...


Zuuds,
There are a lot of factors at play when it comes to shifting performance including the derailleur geometry (distance from pulley to cassette as well as wrap, which when insufficient will cause premature wear) and cassette factors (not just the size of the steps but also the timing, design, and number of shift ramps).

There are also a lot of people who are OK with the performance of Shimano's 11-46 and a stock rear derailleur while others have been very disappointed- so keep in mind that riders' expectations vary. And of course the first/best thing you should/can do is make sure that you're running good cables and housing, especially if full length or internally routed. Shimano's SP41 is _really_ hard to beat in that department.








With that out of the way, I'd personally run the 11-45 with a GS/WolfCage. I spend more time fussing over shifting than most, but the difference between the WolfCage and GoatLink 11 is much wider than the $12 price difference. It's not essential- but the combination performs really, really well with the 11-45t GC45, the 10-44t GCX44, and 9-44t e*thirteen cassette and is an easy addition if you try and find the stock derailleur laggy.

In your case there is no capacity or clearance reason to go with the long cage (SGS), especially as the longer cages are more susceptible to chain slap.


----------



## zuuds (Jan 30, 2004)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Zuuds,
> I spend more time fussing over shifting than most,


Thanks for the detailed info! I'm one of those people too. 

One other question, which finish matches the XT cassette color more closely, silver or gray?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

zuuds said:


> Thanks for the detailed info! I'm one of those people too.
> 
> One other question, which finish matches the XT cassette color more closely, silver or gray?


_That _I don't know- only SLX and XTR cassettes in the fleet at the moment.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

marc: thanks for all the info here.

have you any advcie re the wolfcage for stock 11-46 shimano cassettes ? im guessing this might offer some benefit? im using 11-46 with a stock xtr, but im curious if the wolfcage would make shifting smoother - not that i find it bad at present.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

dRjOn said:


> marc: thanks for all the info here.
> 
> have you any advcie re the wolfcage for stock 11-46 shimano cassettes ? im guessing this might offer some benefit? im using 11-46 with a stock xtr, but im curious if the wolfcage would make shifting smoother - not that i find it bad at present.


It will help. If you're satisfied with your shifting as-is, then it may not be what you need, but XTR should be pretty fantastic (as opposed to not bad). The chart above is a little hard to read, but the WolfCage will decrease free chain by about 1/4, bringing it nearly back to what you could expect on an 11-40 cassette. At the same time, chain engagement in the 11t is increased by 15 degrees, which will reduce wear.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

thanks much! i'm a tinkerer so i think i'll give it a try ~


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## ric614 (Nov 15, 2016)

Here's my 2x10 speed drivetrain, see below:

CASSETTE 
SRAM PG-1050, 10-speed, 11-36
CHAIN
SRAM PC 1051, 10-speed, PowerLink
CRANKSET
Custom SRAM carbon S-2200, 10-speed Trail double, PF30 spindle, removable spider, S: 170mm, Others: 175mm
CHAINRINGS
36/22
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FRONT DERAILLEUR
SRAM X7, 10-speed, S3 direct mount for DMD, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR
Shimano XTR Shadow Plus, 10-speed, SGS long cage
SHIFT LEVERS
Shimano SLX, 10-speed, trigger

I'm going to upgrade my rear cassette using 42T cog. 

Why I want to upgrade to a bigger cog? Because I want to go easy when climbing to a very steep mountain trails.

My goal here is to upgrade but at the same time maintaining the performance at factory level meaning I don't want to get to the point that every time I would need to replace chain or cassette/chain ring, etc. basically a perfect setup.

So basically, on rear cassette what people advice me to do is to eliminate 15/17 cog and replace it with the 16T cog.

I went to another bike shop bike to ask another opinion, and I've been told that the easiest and cheapest way to accomplish this is to eliminate 11t cog (the smallest cog on the cassette), and also replace my chain to a bigger size chain. I told him it's ok to change my chain (chain is inexpensive so I am ok with that) but I don't want to replace anything more other than the chain. 

I would appreciate your thoughts, advice and suggestions on this. Thanks.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

ric614 said:


> Here's my 2x10 speed drivetrain, see below:
> 
> I'm going to upgrade my rear cassette using 42T cog.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure why shops -who should know better- continue to recommend removing the 11t. Sure it's easy, but in doing so you're significantly or completely eroding the benefit (wider range) of what you've just paid to do.







There's a lot of focus on low gears, but those only tell part of the story. Usable range is what you're after (you can and should tailor your low gear with the chainring)- and getting rid of the 11 means that (in your case) the cassette starts at 13t and you've tossed 20% of your range- and ended up with _less_ range than your stock 11-36. That's right- a 13-42 has a 323% range while the stock 11-36 has a 32*7*% range. Depending on your stock chainrings, you have a ~450% range now and an 11-42 would give you 382%. Even if the cassette had a 12t, you'd still be tossing half of the range you're buying with a 42.

If you can go spiderless <cough> Wolf Tooth <cough> you could do that to achieve your low gear goals without touching the chain (except to shorten) or cassette and get the best results shifting/chainline-wise.

It's something that you can try now- if you go for a ride and are OK never shifting out of your small ring (I'm assuming a 26 here), then a Drop Stop 26t 'ring would be the next step. If you find yourself wanting a wider range for rides to the trailhead or longer descents, then it would make sense to add the 42 and stick with a ~30t Drop Stop. In that case, absolutely use the manufacturer's recommended intermediate cog.


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## ric614 (Nov 15, 2016)

I've done some research and 2 x 11-42(WT) such a low gear ratio like this give me more faster spin going up to a steep terrain and maybe slower too on the uphill than my original setup 2x11-36. 

So, what he recommend me is to try WT 40T. 

Has anyone tried using 40T with SRAM Chain ring 22/36, Shimano Derailleur 10 speed long cage, and SRAM cassette 11-36?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

For anyone who's been waiting, the ReMote is back in stock as of today. The last 180 went in two days and we just got ~350 more in across the three brake-mounted versions. We're also about a week out on the 22.2mm bar clamps (which will of course be anodized black and laser etched):


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## o27 (Apr 3, 2016)

What differentiates your recent 49T conversion kit from the Oneup Shark 50T as it seems Oneup also offers 8 shifting points?


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

o27 said:


> What differentiates your recent 49T conversion kit from the Oneup Shark 50T as it seems Oneup also offers 8 shifting points?
> 
> View attachment 1110511
> 
> View attachment 1110512


Thanks for the question.
Ours has 7 shift shift up gates and 7 shift down, whereas the OneUp has 4 shift up and 4 shift down. The shift up gates are ALWAYS where the chain shifts up to the bigger cog so more gates equals faster shifting up. Shifting down, the chain favors shift down gates and even the shift up gates to some extent, but it will shift down in non-gate places (on all cassettes and gears...not exclusive to GC49, Shark, Eagle, etc). This is why the shift down is sometimes buttery smooth and sometime "clunky". The shift up, if properly designed should be buttery.
The other significant note on the GC49+WolfCage (WolfCage adds offset to the upper jockey wheel) is that installation of the cage takes a couple minutes and does not require derailleur disassembly other than the 2 derailleur cage bolts. This makes installation easier and safer.

-Wolf Tooth Brendan


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## o27 (Apr 3, 2016)

Hi Brendan, thanks a lot for the fast reply, much informative - leaning towards this solution then as I definitely dont want to give up too much of the buttery smooth shifting.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

*ReMote 22s In Stock!*

Lookee here! 







We know that we're _way_ behind target on these but the first five hundred ReMote 22s came back from anodizing today. The demand has been really hard to keep up with, so keep that in mind if on the fence.

They're perfect for anyone running non-Shimano/SRAM brakes or wanting a bit more mounting flexibility- and would look amazing on your handlebars. Just sayin'


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## NiteOwlNY (Mar 20, 2015)

I have a Cannondale Fat CAAD 1 and I'd really like a taller first gear. SRAM 10-42 cassette, SRAM X01 derailer and according to Cannondale (no marking on it) Formula DHL-1971, 197x12mm thru (rear), 32 hole rear hub.... 

What do I need to do the 49 tooth 1st? New cassette, freehub, chain?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

NiteOwlNY said:


> I have a Cannondale Fat CAAD 1 and I'd really like a taller first gear. SRAM 10-42 cassette, SRAM X01 derailer and according to Cannondale (no marking on it) Formula DHL-1971, 197x12mm thru (rear), 32 hole rear hub....
> 
> What do I need to do the 49 tooth 1st? New cassette, freehub, chain?


The long and the short of it is that, coming from a 10-42 XD cassette, you'd need all of those parts at once. If your existing chain is longer than it should be then you might be able to make that work- but you'll need big-big + 2 links.

The better and less-expensive approach would likely be a GCX44, which will work with your existing cassette and give a nearly-identical 440% range (vs. 445% with a GC49). You can use the money saved on a new freehub and cassette to buy a smaller chainring to achieve the same low (easiest- which I imagine you meant by saying "taller" which typically means harder) gear as you would with a 49. The GCX approach should be less expensive overall, will be as much as 1/2lb lighter (SRAM XD cassettes and freehubs are _much_ lighter than Shimano's) and will shift better due to the smaller physical steps between the gears.

The thing to keep in mind is the ratio between the front chainring and rear cogs, rather than the ultimate cog size: a 28x44 is slightly lower than a 32x49.


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## NiteOwlNY (Mar 20, 2015)

There are very few options for a smaller fron chain ring on the bike, you guys make a 28 but I prefer ovals so I am going with your camo and a 30 tooth oval. I seem to always been looking to downshift while climbing in the snow beyond first gear.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

NiteOwlNY said:


> There are very few options for a smaller fron chain ring on the bike, you guys make a 28 but I prefer ovals so I am going with your camo and a 30 tooth oval. I seem to always been looking to downshift while climbing in the snow beyond first gear.


If ultimate low gearing is the goal, 28t is our floor at the moment. I'm running a 28t Cinch Elliptical on my backcountry bike and it's great for big days at altitude. For me, 28x44 (with a 29x2.4) is about as low as I can go without toppling over for lack of momentum or being knocked off course by the first golfball rock (sub-2mph):







As an aside, the inventor of the Mountain Tamer Quad four- and five-chainring system was a local rider for some time- it was amazing how _slowly_ he could ride while staying upright. Some serious trials-level balance there.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

We made a mistake!

It looks like about 70 *ReMote IS-AB*s made it out the door with too-short hardware. It's probably not the end of the world, but if you're running a ReMote on I-Spec A or B brake levers we'd like to get you taken care of.







Just measure the screw that mounts the little arm to the brake lever as shown above. If it's under 8mm (closer to 6mm) then drop Jack a line and we'll send you a replacement screw with our apologies.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

Hi there, wondering when the Wolf cage XTR-SGS will be back in stock. I don't mind the extra involvement of the One-Up Shark cage if it's going to be too long to wait.


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## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

Hello Mark, 
I have an e13 9-42 cassette and purchased the 10s goatlink to convert my xtr med cage mech to handle the 42t.
However shifting from the 9-10t is very suspect, would the wolf cage help with the 9t ? 

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Toot3344556 said:


> Hello Mark,
> I have an e13 9-42 cassette and purchased the 10s goatlink to convert my xtr med cage mech to handle the 42t.
> However shifting from the 9-10t is very suspect, would the wolf cage help with the 9t ?
> 
> ...


Toot,
That's not a combination I have first-hand knowledge of, but I would bet that the GoatLink would help. With an 11-42 your top pulley is pretty far from those lower cogs, and with the e*thrteen's 9 it'll be even more so.

That said their shifting, while good, isn't quite at Shimano's level, so I wouldn't expect SLX-like refinement.

Marc


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## WolfTooth (Nov 5, 2009)

onzadog said:


> Hi there, wondering when the Wolf cage XTR-SGS will be back in stock. I don't mind the extra involvement of the One-Up Shark cage if it's going to be too long to wait.


Hey @Onzadog, we will have those done around the second week of May.

-Brendan


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## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Toot,
> That's not a combination I have first-hand knowledge of, but I would bet that the GoatLink would help. With an 11-42 your top pulley is pretty far from those lower cogs, and with the e*thrteen's 9 it'll be even more so.
> 
> That said their shifting, while good, isn't quite at Shimano's level, so I wouldn't expect SLX-like refinement.
> ...


What does the wolf tooth physically change on the mech? Does it move the upper jockey wheel towards the crank to improve chain wrap? I would think that would help the lower gears so that I loosen up the B-screw.

FYI I am already using the goatlink on this setup.

I read last night that e13 recommends an 11 speed chain with the 10 speed cassette. 
This may help with the issue as well.


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Toot3344556 said:


> What does the wolf tooth physically change on the mech? Does it move the upper jockey wheel towards the crank to improve chain wrap? I would think that would help the lower gears so that I loosen up the B-screw.


As you can understand we don't discuss the proprietary geometry of any of our products, but the WolfCage does offset the upper pulley to allow it to better follow wide-range cassettes. Unfortunately that's a derailleur-specific 11s product and we don't have plans to introduce a 10s WolfCage as would be needed here.


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## onzadog (Jan 6, 2008)

From what I can make out from mine, what it does is move the top jockey wheel back when the cage is vertical. This then causes the top jockey wheel to move away from the cassette as the cage approaches horizontal.

Pretty cunning I think and while a simple idea, I bet it's a nightmare trying to workout the optimum movement.


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## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

Hey Marc, another question.

My buddy and myself noticed that the bolt on the 10s wolftooth that screws into the hanger doesn't go the whole way through so that it sits flush...

Is this ok ?
Can you recommend a bolt that will ? 

Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Toot3344556 said:


> Hey Marc, another question.
> 
> My buddy and myself noticed that the bolt on the 10s wolftooth that screws into the hanger doesn't go the whole way through so that it sits flush...
> 
> Is this ok ?


Yup- the bolt is only as long as it needs to be to gain full strength from the threads.

Marc


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## c-wal (Jan 23, 2004)

Hi, has anyone used the GCX46 yet? I am curious how the shift from 36t - 46t feels.
Thanks!


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## handsomehwang (Jun 22, 2015)

Just want to give a shout out to Wolf Tooth. Great customer support and insane response time. I remember I emailed them one time about getting something SRAM matchmaker compatible since I was switching from Shimano to SRAM brakes and they responded within a couple hours at what was like 7PM Mountain Time. Just asked them now for a screw because my ReMote has been slipping on the cable because the head is slightly stripped and I can't torque it down enough. They're sending a bolt out for me only asking for my address. Best customer service I've ever experienced.


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## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

So my buddy just paired an 42gc with a 11-36 xtr cassette and the good old backpedaling in the big gear appeared. 

Is this a system of the setup or the derailleur or chainline ? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Toot3344556 said:


> Is this a system of the setup or the derailleur or chainline ?


The GC is a larger cog and will do nothing to address a bad chainline. Has your buddy contacted Wolf Tooth customer service?


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## Toot3344556 (Apr 25, 2016)

Marc Lindarets said:


> The GC is a larger cog and will do nothing to address a bad chainline. Has your buddy contacted Wolf Tooth customer service?


No, But I ordered one as well!!! haha.

I have an 11 speed shimano mech that will be used with a 10 speed xtr cassette and the GC42.

Just trying to determine if the backpedal issue stems from the Cog itself or what mech is used... Let's assume the chain line is correct. I know mine will be... 
Am I in the clear here?


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## fongster (Dec 5, 2011)

I want to say how pleased I am with the ReMote dropper post lever. I'm using mine (22mm bar mount) with a KS DropZone, Shimano XT brakes and a 1x set up. It was super easy to install (I used the Jagwire cable they reco'd along with a pre-lubed Shimano housing). The operation is super smooth and free. So smooth and free, I can't imagine the light-action model being any easier to operate. It's an upgrade that's well worth the money!


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks Fongster! We're glad that you like it


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Marc Lindarets said:


> Thanks Fongster! We're glad that you like it


You can add the Bikeyoke Revive to the list of compatible posts. Works like butter.


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## dRjOn (Feb 18, 2004)

can anyone help out? --- i generally try to run wofltooth rings if i can. 

im wondering about swapping next sl cranks to hollowgram SI on a fat ish bike. it needs to run ring flipped. 

the cannondale fat caad DM ring seems to be +9mm offset, the wolftooth camo spider for fat caad seems to be -1mm (where normal 73/135mm type drive chains would be -9mm i think?)

this would be a significant difference in chainline? anyone done the swap?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Can anyone comment on drivetrain noise / cassette wear with the WT 30t oval? I'm using a competitor's 30t oval ring (AB) on both bikes and have noticed that they're both very noisy and suffer from a lot of cassette wear. One bike is an Ibis Mojo HDR 650b with an M8000 drivetrain (and M785 cranks), the other is a Nomad with X01 drivetrain (Next SL cranks).

I like the feel of the oval but if it's causing grinding and more wear tear on my drivetrain, I'll go back to a round 30t (WT) ring.


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## NordieBoy (Sep 26, 2004)

Andeh said:


> I like the feel of the oval but if it's causing grinding and more wear tear on my drivetrain, I'll go back to a round 30t (WT) ring.


I'm still using a 32t AB that's 3 years old.

Shouldn't be any more grinding than any other style of chain ring.


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## -Todd- (Jun 13, 2011)

If it feels like it's grinding, you should check the chain stretch, its probably worn beyond limits and needs a change.


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## junglechef (Aug 1, 2012)

Running 10x2, putting on a Sunrace 11-42 paired with XTR Shadow long cage with clutch and 24/36 front chainrings. 

Do I need Wolf Link Goat Link? 
If not would it be better?

From their website looks like it's for 10x1, any advice about this too?


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## RS VR6 (Mar 29, 2007)

I have a 2x10 with a Sunrace 11-40 and the Goat Link on a XT derailleur. Works pretty good.


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Would it make sense to use the Goatlink 11 with a 9-46 e13 cassette and XTR derailleur?


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## Marc Lindarets (Feb 24, 2015)

Mike,
For the e*thirteen we recommend the WolfCage- from experience I can tell you that it works great. The GoatLink 11 is designed for 10-42 and doesn't improve super-wide cassettes as much.


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## mikericci (Oct 29, 2013)

Hadn't seen that item. Will give it a try. The 9-46 with stock XTR is usable, but could use some improvement.


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