# Light and Motion Arc replacement bulb - group buy?



## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

My trusty Light and Motion Arc bulb finally broke, and I need to find a replacement. I believe it's $99 to go thru my Light and Motion dealer, which seems absurd for replacing a bulb. I've done some research (taking my light apart), and the replacement lamp is a B10N004R. This has been superceded, I believe, by the B10N008R. Welch Allyn sells the lamp for $11! And it's super easy to swap out. No soldering or anything. Just a screwdriver to pop the cover off, and a pair of needlenoise pliers to pull the lamp out of it's socket.

The only catch is that you have to have a $100 minimum order from Welch Allyn.

Does anyone have a broken Arc bulb that is looking for a replacement?

I guess all I really need is 1 or 2 other people to be interested (and willing to cough up $30 or so), and it would make sense. The more the merrier.

Anyone interested?

Or does anyone know where you can purchase just one N10N008R?

Link to the WA replacement:

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=B10N008R&cart=1248780427376570


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## MtbMacgyver (Jan 23, 2007)

You're listing the part number for the ballast not the bulb. The bulb is part number M10N001. It is also available on the Welch Allyn online site.

http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=M10N001-1

I've seen both the bulb and the ballast go bad in these lights. There isn't an easy way to know which has failed if you don't have spare parts to try switching around.


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## YeahWhatever (May 20, 2008)

I wish they sold a bulb that was 4300k in color. The standard bulb in the Light and Motion Arc HID is too blue in color (6300k) imo.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

Has anyone disassembled their ARC? I have a spare ARC with a blown bulb (the ballast went out and was replaced 5hrs before the bulb went) but the housing doesn't seem to want to budge. 

Is it pressed on, screwed on?


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

MtbMacgyver: Thanks for the heads up....are you sure about that bulb? The ARC, when I took it apart, did not have any glass assembly surrounding the actual bulb (like the one in the picture in the link you posted). Is that standard now for replacement bulbs?

Todd_F: are you talking about getting off the front clip that contains the glass plate at the front of the light, and that sweeps around the sides of the housing? That just prys off with a screw driver (no screws or anything like that). I guess it's possible the whoever rebuilt the light put locktite or glue or something like that, but either way, you should be able to pry it off.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

cwheel said:


> MtbMacgyver: Thanks for the heads up....are you sure about that bulb? The ARC, when I took it apart, did not have any glass assembly surrounding the actual bulb (like the one in the picture in the link you posted). Is that standard now for replacement bulbs?
> 
> Todd_F: are you talking about getting off the front clip that contains the glass plate at the front of the light, and that sweeps around the sides of the housing? That just prys off with a screw driver (no screws or anything like that). I guess it's possible the whoever rebuilt the light put locktite or glue or something like that, but either way, you should be able to pry it off.


I was able to get the housing apart. My reading comprehension must have been off earlier since you stated how to remove the housing. I browsed around the WA site and saw reference in the technical documentation about the bare bulb but you cannot order it. I'm assuming that the dome wouldn't be too hard to remove.

These bulbs and ballasts are also popular with the scuba diving crowd. I read some interesting ruminations on one of their forums. One guy replaced the entire innards with the new NGX ballast and bulb. That bulb is more efficient and puts out ~1000 lumens! I'm strongly considering trying this since it's not *that* expensive and I'd have to spend $100 with them anyways. Food for thought nonetheless.


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

The other thing we could do is buy four of the bulbs (to bring the total over $100), each get two and it would only cost $60 and we'd each have a spare.

I'd still like to find out if there is a way to get the bare bulb without the housing.

Actually, I found this archived thread for someone selling excess stock M10N001 earlier this summer, and the picture DOES look like the bare bulb. So I think MtbMacgyver is right with his spec:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=184613


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## MtbMacgyver (Jan 23, 2007)

I think M10N001 does have a glass dome. If you need the one without the dome, then I think the part number is M10N002. I think it's a special order part. I don't know if you can get the dome off without damaging the bulb.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

I submitted a question to WelchAllyn about ordering the non-domed bulb and promptly received a phone call back from a nice woman saying that I can indeed order a single (or non-bulk quatities) of the non-domed M10N002 part. It's the same cost as the domed version. The NGX non-domed version is also available. 

I think if you're going to make an order, might as well order a spare ballast too, they're only $11/each.


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

I am interested in buying a bulb and ballast for my arc. If everyone buys a bulb and ballast at $11+$30 = $41 total, you only need three people. Willing to split original shipping and then pay for actual shipping to my residence. PM me if you act on this. 

What is the difference between the non-domed M10N002 and teh NGX non-domed? Do they use the same ballast?


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

The NGX line is a different bulb and ballast. The new ballast is regulated so it's a lot more forgiving to input voltage (9-16V). They claim the new bulb and ballast are more efficient. In the end, they claim it outputs close to 1000 lumens vs 600 or so for the last generation line of Solarc HIDs.


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

Todd - that's interesting, I did the same thing, and got a call saying I needed to go thru my L&M dealer. Perhaps next time I'll just order without telling them what it's for.


Might try and order one early next week. Gasiorv - if we indeed have to order bulk, we could set something up, but it sounds like they might let us order single quantities.


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## TomL (Aug 26, 2004)

Hi just looking at trying to fix my L&Ms at the moment. Just disected one of them to see what was inside.

I'd be happy to contribute to a bulk order and just to be a pain I'm in the uk.

Looking for 2 bulbs and probably 2 ballasts.

Thanks

Tom


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## Flyer (Jan 25, 2004)

I'm sure L&M has tons of these in stock and are not happy about you guys going directly to the source, especially since they no longer make the ARC and would love to turn some of that obsolete inventory into cash....$100 at a time. Don't tell WA what you want the bulbs for.


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

I doubt it, L&M still gets these straight from WA (like they always have), and at this point, since the Arc is discontinued, they'll only be stocking as much as they need. L&M does, however, care about the $100 they can charge for a $11 item.


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

I doubt it, L&M still gets these straight from WA (like they always have), and at this point, since the Arc is discontinued, they'll only be stocking as much as they need. L&M does, however, care about the $100 they can charge for a $11 item.


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## TomL (Aug 26, 2004)

I have no qualms about it. They got a new light out of me (the third, a Vega) and I won't be getting the Arcs repaired at the cost it is in the UK. 
Can't find the link but it was about £125 for the bulb to be replaced and £50 for the ballast.

So they either sit their broken and unused or I can buy some bits and do it myself. I might just order 3 bulbs and 2 ballasts direct to the UK as that will fill the minimum order.


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

cwheel, todd - did you all ever buy the bulbs/ballast from WA? Did you upgrade to the NGX, if so, how is it?


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

Order should have shipped today, so we'll see. I'm debating how I'm going to wire up the NGX ballast since it has a built-in regulator and won't need the L&M circuit board regulator or power level switching.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

Everything arrived yesterday. I ordered a complete set of each, 1 old bulb and ballast and one new NGX bulb and ballast. Once I verified that it was my old ballast that kicked the bucket on my L&M light, I went to work on the NGX. It's very simple to wire up as it doesn't require any external voltage regulation. I need to work out the difference in the two bulbs since the NGX beam has a dead spot in the center. I imagine this is due to the arc being in the wrong place within the reflector. So time to make some measurements and adjustments to get it right. Otherwise, it's quite bright!


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Todd
Thanks for the update. I am going to try the NGX, can you provide me with the actual part number bulb and ballast that you purchased.


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

gasiorv said:


> Todd
> Thanks for the update. I am going to try the NGX, can you provide me with the actual part number bulb and ballast that you purchased.


Me as well. Many thanks!

EB


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

My Arc just stopped working too - ballast clicks, but bulb doesn't kick on. L&M says it's the ballast - they wanted $150 to repair (and of course tried to sell me on the upgrade to the new lights - if I had the Li Ion battery I'd consider it, but I've got the big heavy NiMeHi battery). I'd like to do this repair on my own as well. Let me know if anyone puts together a group order. Count me in for one bulb and one ballast...


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## cwheel (Aug 4, 2007)

It's annoying that they want that much money, and that they diagnose the light without even looking at it. Mine had the same symptoms as yours, and I took it apart, and the bulb literally fell apart in my hand...so they can't possibly diagnose that your ballast is also busted. They just want to charge you the full amount.

Haven't gotten around to placing an order, but I might just buy a few lights and ballasts and sell off what I don't use.


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

Only takes three of us to meet the minimum, and I think we've easily got that in this thread. I'm in for sure for one each of the M10N002 (non-domed bulb) and M10N008 (ballast). PM me with your email if you do it, and I'll paypal you (extra $5 shipping?).
-Scott


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

To update everyone, here's what I know so far:

Solarc Bulb/ballast part numbers:
non-domed bulb - M10N002
L&M ballast - B10N008R

NGX part numbers:
non-domed bulb - M10N004
ballast - B10R001

The NGX ballast and bulb fit fine into the L&M housing with no modifications. You no longer need the L&M PCB board since the NGX ballast is fully regulated. I didn't try using their PCB for the soft-start or battery voltage indication since I didn't want to risk damaging it somehow. I'm going to use a small project box to mount a small switch and patch into the stock L&M battery connector.

I did have to make a 2.5mm thick shim to fit into the base of the bulb to move the reflector up in relation to the arc to get the beam right. I just found some hard plastic washers at Lowes that I cut and sanded down to fit.


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

mtbhead said:


> Only takes three of us to meet the minimum, and I think we've easily got that in this thread. I'm in for sure for one each of the M10N002 (non-domed bulb) and M10N008 (ballast). PM me with your email if you do it, and I'll paypal you (extra $5 shipping?).
> -Scott


Scott,

Count me in if you order them. I can paypal you as well.

EB


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

ebxtreme said:


> Scott,
> 
> Count me in if you order them. I can paypal you as well.
> 
> EB


It's funny - a few of us want "in" on the standard replacements, but no one really is motivated to be the buyer/mailer...  I'm not too worried about fronting the money, it's the time spent re-boxing them up, and shipping them to a bunch of folks that I don't have. I would propose this: since the volume discount doesn't hit until you get to 50 pieces anyway - we could simply do this in groups of three. In other words, I'll order three bulbs and three balasts, one set for me, and two sets for two lucky, lazy bastards who will then have to paypal me and trust that I'll ship to them. Then, someone else can do the same - and so on, and so on, etc. That way no one person would be stuck with having to ship to a dozen different people (or selling off extra inventory on ebay, etc.). Anyhow, this is what I'll propose unless someone else steps up in the next day or two to do a larger group order. cwheel and ebxtreme: I'd cover you guys I guess. Let's give it a day or two to see if anyone's willing to step up and cover everyone first...
-Scott


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Todd,
Thanks for the info. Was the NGX a big improvement (worth the xtra cost and modification) once you got the bulb shimmed?


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## narcoticprawn (Oct 9, 2009)

Hi 

Does anybody know if the NGX bulb and balast will work in a Cateye Stadium 3 after a bit of rewiring ?


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## MtbMacgyver (Jan 23, 2007)

narcoticprawn said:


> Hi
> 
> Does anybody know if the NGX bulb and balast will work in a Cateye Stadium 3 after a bit of rewiring ?


The cateye stadium uses a Welch Allyn 21 watt hid bulb. It's also a split ballast system where the ballast is in the battery assembly and not in the light head like the original 10w Solarc and the NGX. Your only choice is to buy the correct bulb from Welch Allyn, but I doubt it's worth it since it costs almost $250. For that much money, you'd be better off investing in a nice LED based light.

Also, how do you know it's the bulb that's failed as opposed to the ballast in the battery assembly?


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

I just ordered three sets from WA. PMs sent to cwheel and ebxtreme. Todd - thank you for verifying the part numbers. That made it real easy. If I didn't: 1) already have a 1000 lumen handlebar mount light (BR Lights C2-K - absolutely the *best* light ever) , and 2) have sooo much going on in my life right now, I'd have probably gone the NGX route as well. Sounds like a pretty simple, very cool upgrade.


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## ebxtreme (Jan 6, 2004)

mtbhead said:


> I just ordered three sets from WA. PMs sent to cwheel and ebxtreme. Todd - thank you for verifying the part numbers. That made it real easy. If I didn't: 1) already have a 1000 lumen handlebar mount light (BR Lights C2-K - absolutely the *best* light ever) , and 2) have sooo much going on in my life right now, I'd have probably gone the NGX route as well. Sounds like a pretty simple, very cool upgrade.


Thanks Scott. PM responded to.

Cheers,
EB


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## MtbMacgyver (Jan 23, 2007)

gasiorv said:


> Todd,
> Thanks for the info. Was the NGX a big improvement (worth the xtra cost and modification) once you got the bulb shimmed?


I built my own HID lights based on the original Solarc 10w bulb / ballast about 6 years ago. I actually built 4 full sets of helmet and bar lights since my wife and 2 kids were into 24 hour mtb races. If you figure out the cost of 8 hid lights 6 years ago...you'll see my motivation for building them myself.

I recently updated a few of them to the NGX bulb and ballast. They are certainly much brighter than the original lights in a side by side comparison. But, I'm not sure it really makes that much difference in the real world out riding on the trails. I haven't used them out on the trail enough to make a final call, but frankly the original HIDs are bright enough that more light doesn't seem to make all that much difference.

I've also noticed the same thing with my more recent LED based lights. At some point more lumens doesn't seem to really improve things that much. That's especially true if you keep the beam pattern the same. The best use I've found for more lumens is to go to wider beam patterns and just illuminate a larger area.

Here's another interesting little piece of info, the new NGX ballast seems to work fine with the original 10w HID bulb. It's not quite as bright as the NGX bulb / ballast combo, but subjectively I'd say it's 90% as bright. I doubt this is a officially support combination by Welch Allyn and for all I know the bulb could burn up quickly, but I'm going to run that combo for a while just to see what happens. But I do know that other lights such as the Lupine HID do effectively the same thing. They used a different ballast to generate more light from the original Welch Allyn bulb. The reason this is significant, is that new NGX ballast is the exact same size as the original ballast. So it can be put in any existing HID light. The new NGX bulbs are a little longer, so they aren't drop in replacements for most existing HID lights.


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## sirlylos (Oct 9, 2009)

Fellas I'm fresh on here, I usually hang around BikeRadar but Dazzza recommended I come on here. My Arc Li-ion is bust, it's fully charged and the green light on the switch comes on but no light. The light's been stored safely and I assume it's the bulb - to make matters worse I've used the light once!

Anyway, what do people suggest I do - Dazzza mentioned an upgrade...should I try that?

Cheers in advance.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

sirlylos said:


> My Arc Li-ion is bust, it's fully charged and the green light on the switch comes on but no light. The light's been stored safely and I assume it's the bulb - to make matters worse I've used the light once.


You came to the right thread. I had the *exact* same symptoms on my ARC (after having sent it to L&M to be fixed where the green LED stopped coming on.) After doing all the research and calling Welch Allyn, I ordered a set of bulb/ballast for the 10W Solarc and the 13W NGX. Before I did the replacement, I tested out the new bulb with my ballast to see which was at fault and it turned out the ballast was at fault. That's only $11 vs $30 for a bulb.

I upgraded my ARC to the NGX bulb and ballast for a bit more light. I haven't tried using the L&M PCB, but you really don't need it with the NGX ballast anyways.


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Well I tried to order the NGX from WA this morning and they said that they have them in stock but I didn't meet the min $100. Doesn't make sense to me that they would lose $76 in order to try and get $24 more? Anyway I know it would be nice to have an extra set of bulb/ballast laying around, but I don't really have the money right now to by two sets. I am going to try and test to see which one is bad, bulb or ballast on my current light and then see if I can just fin the bad part.

Anyone know what the output of the ballast should be?
Resistance of bulb?

Todd, if in additon to the NGX you purchased the solarc bulb and ballast, you interested in selling, I will pay for shipping?


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## MtbMacgyver (Jan 23, 2007)

gasiorv said:


> I am going to try and test to see which one is bad, bulb or ballast on my current light and then see if I can just fin the bad part.
> 
> Anyone know what the output of the ballast should be?
> Resistance of bulb?


Other than having spare parts so you can try parts with known good parts, there really isn't an easy way to test the bulb or ballast without fairly specialized equipment. The bulb is an arc bulb and hence there is no filament. So it won't have any resistance until the halide gas has been excited by the 6kv start pulse. That same 6kv start pulse is why you don't want to try and measure the output voltage from the ballast. After the start pulse, the ballast puts out around 65v to maintain the arc inside the bulb. But the 6kv pulse will likely take out any meter that isn't designed to handle high voltage. Not to mention the potential for a pretty nasty shock.


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

MtbM, 
Thanks!! That is why I am a Structures and not an Electrical Engineer.


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## sirlylos (Oct 9, 2009)

Right I need the ballast and the bulb too - I'm willing to upgrade so I could just buy the better bulb and ballast and then at least I know the problem will be solved and I'll have a better / brighter light. I live in the UK so it's going to be a bit of a nightmare getting them sent over here, especially if they have a $100 limit on purchases.

Does anyone want to come in on a bulk buy so that we can get a few sets over here and then distribute them?

Cheers,

SirLylos


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## SCUBAPRO (Jun 29, 2004)

Todd_F said:


> NGX part numbers:
> *non-domed bulb - M10N004*
> ballast - B10R001
> 
> I did have to make a 2.5mm thick shim to fit into the base of the bulb to move the reflector up in relation to the arc to get the beam right. I just found some hard plastic washers at Lowes that I cut and sanded down to fit.


Todd,

Thanks so much for the info.

I don't see the M10N004 bulb on the site. Will the M10P004 work?

Do you need the 2.5mm shim for the NGX upgrade?


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

SCUBAPRO said:


> I don't see the M10N004 bulb on the site. Will the M10P004 work?
> Do you need the 2.5mm shim for the NGX upgrade?


The non-domed NGX bulb is not listed on their website. I was instructed to order the domed version and put instructions to substitute that part number for the non-domed, M10N004 part number. The technical drawings shows the proper part numbers so you can double-check.

The shim is necessary to get a correct beam, otherwise it will have a big donut hole right in the middle! I determined this experimentally by adjusting the reflector in relation to the bulb along it's axis.


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## kylerodland (Dec 12, 2007)

I'll go in for a bulb and ballast. Have you put the order in yet?


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## kylerodland (Dec 12, 2007)

Woops....I live in the States. Anyone willing?


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

An update for anyone who cares: Of the three sets of the standard replacement ballasts (B10N008R) and bulbs (M10N002) that I ordered for cwheel, ebxtreme, and myself, it turns out that I recieved one broken bulb in the order. I actually did the replacement of the bulb and ballast yesterday to my own light, which was pretty straight-forward and relatively easy, though a few slightly tricky parts: 1) the lens and cover can be a bit sticky and difficult to remove by hand - it is made to pop off by hand, but I ended up using a flat-bladed screwdriver to help me - but be careful if you do this - I could see it might be easy to break the glass if you weren't careful. 2) the little black plastic cylinder that the reflector rests in has one inside edge that is beveled, so you do need to make sure to put it back together with that side facing out. 3) between the PCB and the ballast is a piece of black foam with (I think) double-sided sticky tape on both sides. One side secures it to the ballast, the other side to the PCB. I managed to salvage and re-use the sticky part between the PCB and the foam - the other side I didn't worry about since it would be held together via compression when the whole thing was re-assembled. Just make sure that you thread the wires through this foam piece before you solder the new ballasts wires to the PCB. Black goes to -, and yellow goes to +. Removing the old wires took a pretty hot solder tip, adding some additional solder, and use of a solder vacuum (just the cheap spring loaded kind). Then, after trimming the wires down in length to match the ones on the old ballast, removing the rest of the old solder so that you can thread the wires from the new ballast through the holes in the PCB also required (for me) adding a little bit of solder, and using the solder vacuum again. 

After I was done with installing the new ballast, I inserted the new bulb and turned it on - cool - it works! I also checked my old bulb out, and found that it wouldn't illuminate - essentially narrowing the failure to the bulb (I think the suggestion to just replace both regardless is a good idea though). I was getting ready to mail off the other two new sets to cwheel and ebxtreme when I realized one of the bulbs was broken - the narrow glass part which contains the gas appeared to have been broken in the original shipment. I decided to take one for the team, and pulled the new bulb out of my own light so I could send them off to both of those guys since they already paypal'd me. When I got in to work, I called WA's Lighting division, and after verifying my order, the customer service person said she'd mail me a replacement right away - which I thought was cool. I've got a back-up light I can use in the mean time, so really no biggie.


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## kylerodland (Dec 12, 2007)

So...we have two people going in on anther order for bulbs and ballasts, gasiorv and myself. anyone else interested? we need one more to make the minimum.


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## SCUBAPRO (Jun 29, 2004)

kylerodland said:


> So...we have two people going in on anther order for bulbs and ballasts, gasiorv and myself. anyone else interested? we need one more to make the minimum.


OK, count me in. PM me payment info. Thanks


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

I have a faulty Topeak Moonshine HID, by substitution I've concluded that it is the control circuit board thats U/S so I'd be up for the NGX type ballast/lamp combo so I can do away with the PCB
I'm in the UK


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## tonymoloni24 (Oct 23, 2009)

Hi im in the uk, if anyone wants to split. I want bulb and ballast, or maybe 2 of each:thumbsup:


Im in the uk btw, and just want to replace standard like for like


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

I'm happy to order the parts, can you give me the part numbers you want, ballast voltage & lamp beam angle from the Walamp.com website.


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## mtnbike45 (May 25, 2007)

Thanks for all this great info! I'm just going to order three NGX ballasts (B10R001) and two standard bulbs (M10N002) for myself, since in my case I know the problem is the ballast (the light turns off intermittently, often after only a couple of minutes, and replacing the battery didn't fix the problem), and I don't see the need for the most light possible. L&M wants $150 to fix it - after subtracting $80 labor since I just bought a battery - and by spending about the same amount I can end up with a lot more - should last many years.
I did try removing the cover/lens, just to make sure I could, and it was very easy with careful use of a small screwdriver. I haven't done more than that yet, but with mtbhead's notes above I don't anticipate many problems.


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## sedicirich (Nov 1, 2009)

Hi Guys, I'm also in the UK, just bought one of these lights off ebay (I have a stella 150 also), got a feeling I'll need spares, thinking of buying a number of lamps from the US then ebaying the rest; albeit at a much lower price than L&M want for replacments as I think there will be many UK riders in need. Have any UK guy's already bought the lamps or balasts?


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## mtbhead (Jun 17, 2004)

had a spare for sale - sold - deleted message...


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## special k (Mar 15, 2005)

I need 2 ballasts B10N002R @ $11 ea. if anyone is placing an order soon & needs to get to the $100 mark. Ballast went out on my backup Jet HID & could use a spare as well. Can Paypal funds, let me know if anyone interested. :thumbsup:


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## Mongooze (May 3, 2007)

I need a ballast and bulb for my Arc NimH and would like to chip in if anyone is ordering. L&M wants $165 to replace the ballast!


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## gazzab1966 (Nov 7, 2009)

Hi - did any UK guys find a suppy of ballasts and bulbs? 
I have just looked at Maddisons prices and bulb and balast = £200 + in total ! What the...!
I have a Lion HID and it is cutting out occaisionally. so I guess this means new ballast. 
Would be great if we could buy some in the uk?


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

I've placed an order for lamp & ballasts from the USA, awaiting delivery to work out prices (depends on custom/VAT charges) but should be less than half Madisons! 
PM me if interested.


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## gazzab1966 (Nov 7, 2009)

In fact I have just placed an order for 2 balasts and 3 bulbs !


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## sedicirich (Nov 1, 2009)

Ok Guys this week I will make an order with WA, I can only test things if I take my arc apart, as not all shipped items seem to work. Then I'll ebay the bits dont expect them to cost 11dollars mind ; the shipping and tax will be on top of any purchase price.


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## Witchdoctor (Nov 13, 2009)

*Thanks*

This post has really helped me out - just like to say thanks to the contributors.
My HID bulb went last week, I made an order for 3 bulbs and 2 ballast from the WA site on the links given in previous posts (i have stuck with the original parts rather than upgrade for simplicity)- it cost $162 in total converted to £100.67 on the credit card. I made the order on 6th Nov and received it on 10th Nov (in the UK) - brilliant service.
Bulb replacement was very straightforward and I now have a fully functional light with a good stock of spares.
Thanks again.
Just to confirm the parts to order for straight replacement:-
BULB:- M10N002 
http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=M10N002 
BALLAST:- B10N008R 
http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail.tpl?partnumber=B10N008R&cart=12574702418407681


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## gazzab1966 (Nov 7, 2009)

Thanks also from me ! Got mine through today from WA. Paid the same as above all in. So ends up at approx £24 for a bulb or £11 a ballast. So £35 all in to fix one light unit should both bitss need replacing. That is a lot less than the £200+ that Maddisons want! 
Its all very easy to do as well (ordering and delivery that is - not tried fitting yet !). Someone on here is kindly offering to sell on their extra bits (£81 for bulb and ballast) - not sure who.


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## racerxxv (Aug 23, 2004)

*Anyone ordering Bulbs?*

Anyone doing an order or have an extra bulb from a previous order sitting around?

I need a bulb and might order a ballast if I need to hit minimum.

If I don't hear from anyone this week, I'll probably order up 3 bulbs and a couple ballasts so if anyone needs anything lemme know.

I'm in Kansas City, MO and can pay by or accept Paypal.

Does anyone know of a good place to have my battery pack rebuilt for less than $200? Light & Motion Arc Li-Ion.


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## skelator 3000 (Mar 19, 2009)

racerxxv,
I am interested in splitting an order. Let me know if still interested.....


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

racerxxv,
This is what I just purchased from batteryspace.com. It should work as a valid replacement for the L&M battery. I will post how heavy and how it works when I get in next week. I decided to keep their female end on the battery so that it will easily plug into the charger and bought a connector/adapter to put the L&M connector onto, however, the charger does come with alligator clips that can attach to any connector you just have to get the right polarity every time.

Connector/Adaptor:Trail-Tech Male Coaxis Lockable Connector with 4' Coil Cord CN-TTML 1 $5.95 $5.95 

Polymer Li-Ion Battery Pack: 11.1V 5700mAh (63wh) with Trail-Tech female plug + 1.5A Smart Charger for Trail-Tech HID light PL-H7051119-3S-TT-CH 1 $99.95 $99.95


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## climb4fun (May 24, 2008)

Hey gasiorv,
If you can, please post some pics when you're done. I'm little confused on what parts you're modifying in order to connect the bike light's cable to the new battery and if you're keeping the existing battery housing to use with the new battery.


----------



## special k (Mar 15, 2005)

Edit -- ordered parts already


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## PMon (Nov 29, 2009)

*Spare bulbs and ballasts for sale*

I have a couple of spare bulbs (M10N002) and ballasts (B10N008R) available if anyone is after them. I'll sell them at £45 for a bulb and ballast inc postage (to UK).

PM me if interested.


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## racerxxv (Aug 23, 2004)

Hey All,

Sorry I've been outta touch, was outta town for the holidays.

Skelator - If you're still interested, lemme know.

Pmon - Are you in the US or the UK? I'm in the US...

Gasiorv - Thanks! exactly what I was looking for. I'd really like to hear how it's working out for you once you get it in and into service.

Still trying to decide if I want to sink $150 into getting this light back into service or if I should just get the Geomangear LED light for $100...


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

The battery from batteryspace arrived yesterday. It took a lot longer too ship than I expected, but after I got shipping notificatin it arrived within a few days. Battery is very light and pretty compact, it comes with stickers all over it warning of fire and instructing to charge in a fireproof container, do not leave unattended during charging, etc...... which kind of had me worried, but I charged it without it even getting warm to the touch. I cut open my old L&M battery and removed the connector and wired it to the adapter that I bought from battery space, plugged everything in and the light lit with no problem. I didn't have time to go for a ride last night so I don't know how long the battery will last right now, all I know is that I plugged it in and the light came on. I will report again after I had a chance to go out for a few hours. 

The only problem that I see right now (which really isn't a problem) is that I have way too much cable length. The battery has a cable, the adapter cable, and the Arc cable, all this cable added together is extremely long. After I make sure everything works the way I want it, I will probably cut the adapter cable down as short as possible and wire tie the battery cable to the battery and then post some pics.


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## tonymoloni24 (Oct 23, 2009)

Does anyone know where i can get a pcb from? I have changed lamp and ballast but my pcb is faulty,what does the pcb do?

Wish i had just got the magicshine now


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## Batteryman (Jan 14, 2008)

Hello fellow HID users, 

I see that many of you are upgrading to the NXG ballast. I just ordered a set and am trying to figure out what to use for a switch.

the NXG has a high and low. 3 wires coming off the ballast (2 grounds and one positive.)

The 2 grounds allow switching between high and low. 

Also I read that Welch Allyn recommends starting the lamp on low for maximum life span


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Finally was able to get out for a night ride last night and the batteryspace battery worked fine, rode for approx 1.5 hours. I didn't charge the battery after the ride and I am planning on heading out again tonight so I will see if I can get another 1.5 hour ride out of it.


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## TioTony (Dec 30, 2009)

Hi Everyone,
I have a Light and Motion ARC I am selling for parts going to who ever contacts me first with a reasonable offer. I will include the light, handlebar mount, charger, and Li-ion battery. 
I was riding last week and the light just turned off. It was close to 3 hours of night riding so I figured the battery was dead. Thanks to everyone that posted on this forum. Based on the details of this thread I believe the problem to be the ballast or fuse. I had frayed wires (common problem) which I believe shorted out and either blew the fuse or the ballast. The green light does not come on. I hooked the battery up to a volt meter after charging and it is just fine. I also believe the bulb is good but I have no way to verify. The filament is still intact so I assume it is good. 
I'm buying a new light instead of trying to fix this one, mostly due to time. However, this may be the bulk of components you would need to build your own (or just fix this one).

Contact me for more details or post a reply.

Thanks,
Tony


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## skelator 3000 (Mar 19, 2009)

*Group buy*

Anyone want to jump in on a group buy for U.S. shipping only?


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## Mongooze (May 3, 2007)

Skelator, I might be interested. All I need is a bulb.


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## skelator 3000 (Mar 19, 2009)

Alright mongooze. That is thirty bucks secured on the order. Anyone else??


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## Guest (Jan 29, 2010)

I have an ARC light head in perfect condition. It has less than 25 hrs on it, works perfectly.
$75 pm me.


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## abacojeff (Aug 17, 2008)

It looks like there's still some interest in HID lighting... 

I have a couple of Marwi Nightpro Extremes (1 'regular' the other 'EVO') - if there's interest from any HID diehard(s) out there, let me know and I'll post them on classifieds.

You can canibalize them for parts or use as-is. They use, of course, the ubiquitous Welsh-Allyn 10W bulb / ballast combo. The EVO version uses a LiOn battery for a claimed 8 hour runtime (compared to claimed 3.7 hours for the standard set up). Comes with a really cool "suitcase" with cutout foam cubbies for storage and transportation in case anybody cares about that.

Otherwise, I'll just try to think of a project to use the batteries for or something.


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## SaxMan (May 21, 2005)

sirlylos said:


> Fellas I'm fresh on here, I usually hang around BikeRadar but Dazzza recommended I come on here. My Arc Li-ion is bust, it's fully charged and the green light on the switch comes on but no light. The light's been stored safely and I assume it's the bulb - to make matters worse I've used the light once!
> 
> Anyway, what do people suggest I do - Dazzza mentioned an upgrade...should I try that?
> 
> Cheers in advance.


I've had a similar poor experience with an Arc Li-Ion. Mine is only two years old and it has failed twice. First time was last October after about 65 hours of use. It took two weeks for L&M to get an RMA, and then they had the light for six weeks. It just failed again for a second time after only another 30 - 35 hours of use, and so far, I haven't heard back from L&M. I'd be willing to do the upgrade, if L&M gave some consideration for this light's poor reliabilty and their crappy customer service.

Worst case, it sounds like there may be a good DIY option here.


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## Mongooze (May 3, 2007)

Is anyone placing an order? I still need a bulb. If not, I'm willing to sell off the rest of the kit if anyone needs battery or anything else.


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## DutchW (Mar 19, 2006)

I recently placed an order and had to order some extra to get to the well know $100 minimum order at Welch Allyn.

I'm keeping some spares for myself, but I still have an extra two M10N002 globes. The tubes are still sealed.

People can have them at what it cost me to get them into Taiwan. 44 USD + shipping from Taiwan to your destination.

PM me if you're interested.


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## SaxMan (May 21, 2005)

Mongooze said:


> Is anyone placing an order? I still need a bulb. If not, I'm willing to sell off the rest of the kit if anyone needs battery or anything else.


I'm still waiting for a response from L&M on my light. If I'm not happy with their response (or I don't get a response), I will place an order and try the DIY fix. If I do place an order, it will be around the 1st of March.


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## Guest (Feb 18, 2010)

1234


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## skelator 3000 (Mar 19, 2009)

still have the light and motion arc system? does it work? let me know....


----------



## froof (May 3, 2007)

I have 3.5 new bulbs and one new ballast. The 0.5 bulb is a used bulb that I would let go of for a bargain. If you want to buy a spare bulb or ballast or need a replacement PM me.


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## Crankenator (Mar 27, 2007)

froof.....PM sent


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Sorry to bring up an old thread. During the previous group buy I went in on a bulb and ballast, recently, my light has been going out when I would take a big hit so I took it apart to see if one of my solders came loose. Anyway, I think I broke the bulb when it was apart because it does not work anymore. I also just found that the problem was a broken wire in the cable and not one of the solders. I sent froof a PM to see if he has anymore bulbs but since he only has 1 post I don't know how active he is, 

Anyway, does anyone have an extra bulb laying around?


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## froof (May 3, 2007)

gasiorv,
I still have two new bulbs and one used bulb. Hit me up if you are interested.


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## DutchW (Mar 19, 2006)

I've still got 2 sealed M10N002 globes.

40 USD a piece and free regular shipping (Less than the cost for me to get them, but now they are just lying there) 

PM me if you're interested.


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## gasiorv (Aug 15, 2007)

Dutch,
Working with froof right now, if that falls through I will PM you. 

That is the great thing about the Mt Bike community and especially of those who night ride, so many people offering to help.


----------



## ahayley (Feb 1, 2007)

Bringing this thread back up...the bulb on my arc died. Anyone have just the bulb to sell? Anyone interested in a group buy?


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## erisch (Sep 11, 2007)

ahayley said:


> Bringing this thread back up...the bulb on my arc died. Anyone have just the bulb to sell? Anyone interested in a group buy?


I would buy two bulbs in case we get enough together for an order.

Erik


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## ahayley (Feb 1, 2007)

Hey Erik...thanks for the reply. I spoke with walamp, who no longer carry the bulb, who have referred me to another company. I will let you know what I find.


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

I have one new bulb, M10N002, from my order last year as well as a used bulb (probably 200hrs on it, 1000 expected lifetime). I also have a spare ballast, B10N008R.

$30 for the new bulb, $10 for the used bulb, $10 for the ballast.


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## mkselecta (Sep 26, 2009)

If a group buy happens, I'd be interested in a spare bulb or two.


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## sic_nick (Oct 18, 2005)

I am also looking to get some bulbs for my Arc but being based in the UK need to join in on an order with someone in the USA.

Todd_F are your bulbs still for sale?


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

sic_nick, check PMs


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## ahayley (Feb 1, 2007)

I have been doing a lot of research on the bulbs/ballasts and have found that WA no longer carries the bulbs. They have sold that line to Ushio who also has a minimum purchase as well. The lady (Angela 800.326.1960) I spoke with at Ushio was nice enough to mention that www.bulbtronics.com can supply the bulb and ballast with no minimum purchase. She also mentioned that the "old generation" (M10N002) bulb has been discontinued and replaced with the "new generation" (M10N004) bulb. The "new generation" bulb can be used with the old ballast (B10R001) and supply better light on less power. I did not get prices but a contact at bulbtronics is Suzanne (800.588.2852).

Here are the prices from Ushio:
old generation bulb M10N002 $30/lamp
ballast B10R001 $30/ballast
new generation bulb M10N004 $46/lamp

An alternative to fixing the light is warranty upgrade through light and motion to a Seca 700 (led) for $150. Since the credit card I purchased the Arc with doubles the manufacturers warranty I am going with the warranty upgrade.


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## sic_nick (Oct 18, 2005)

I also have an old (and now discontinued) L&M Vega










that the battery no longer holds charge for more than a couple of minutes and was wondering if anyone knows how to disassemble the head unit so I could use an external battery and maybe even upgrade the LED too?


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## sic_nick (Oct 18, 2005)

Disassembled the Vega, it's got a left hand thread on it.


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## jonnnoh (Oct 15, 2010)

Hi, I have only just found this thread. I have a L+M ARC headlight which has just died, and unfortunately I had already bought two new bulbs over here in Australia. There is only one agent here (we are a little backwards) and each bulb was only about $200 each. As it turns out it's the ballast which has gone, so I have now bought the later GSX ballast and am waiting for it to arrive. All up I could have bought something new and probably just as good for the same money. I hope this works with the existing electronics.. If anyone has tried this can they let me know? Similarly, if anyone has any spare parts, bulbs or whatever which must be cheaper than what I can get them here for I would be interested....Cheers!


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

> I have now bought the later GSX ballast


Do you mean NGX?
If so the NGX has three wires & needs the matching NGX bulb


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## jonnnoh (Oct 15, 2010)

Yes, NGX. You can use the original bulb according to welch allyn.


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## jonnnoh (Oct 15, 2010)

Well, if anybody is interested the older bulbs do work. I also removed the original electronics and managed to squeeze in a pcb which only switches it on and off, so it looks the same as original. I wasn't brave enough to use the new ballast with the original electronics.


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## EMCPartner (May 5, 2011)

ahayley said:


> I have been doing a lot of research on the bulbs/ballasts and have found that WA no longer carries the bulbs. They have sold that line to Ushio who also has a minimum purchase as well. The lady (Angela 800.326.1960) I spoke with at Ushio was nice enough to mention that www.bulbtronics.com can supply the bulb and ballast with no minimum purchase. She also mentioned that the "old generation" (M10N002) bulb has been discontinued and replaced with the "new generation" (M10N004) bulb. The "new generation" bulb can be used with the old ballast (B10R001) and supply better light on less power. I did not get prices but a contact at bulbtronics is Suzanne (800.588.2852).
> 
> Here are the prices from Ushio:
> old generation bulb M10N002 $30/lamp
> ...


Hi aHayley, thanks for the info regarding the new distributor and sale outlet. I run a Tuesday night bike club and surprise, surprise we've all got L&M ARC HID lights. Did you order the new balast and bulb and if so, how did you get on fitting and working, etc. If all was OK, planning to order a few bulbs and ballast for the guys. Would appreciate your reply, thanks.


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## rockhopperfsrxc (Jun 3, 2011)

I've read this thread with interest. Thanks everyone for contributions.

I have an ARC that keeps pulling the wires out the back. I've had the wires resoldered for the second time by the Electronic Engineering guys at my College. While I was waiting, I saw an ARC light head come up on e-bay, and bought it as a spare. Unfortunately, it doesn't work. Now that I've got my old light back, I swapped bulbs, and the bulb works, so it's either the board or the ballast.

Anyone still have an extra ballast?

I've been making some phone calls trying to track down the replacement parts, now that WA no longer stocks them. I called Bulbtronics with the part numbers given in this thread, but they couldn't find them.

After poking around their online catalogue, here's what I've found:

Bulbtronics:
Ballast - Bulbtronics number: WAB10N002R (ordering code 0067940) - $45.68

bulbtronics.com/Search-The-Warehouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0067940&pid=WAB10N002R

Bulb - Bulbtronics number: WAM10P00101 (ordering code 0067931) - $59.40

bulbtronics.com/Search-The-Warehouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0067931&pid=WAM10P00101

This is the domed version. I don't see a non-domed version on their website. Not sure how easy it is to get the dome off, or if they stock the non-domed version.

Curiously, the combo costs more than the individual units:

bulbtronics.com/Search-The-Warehouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0005791&pid=BTM10P002BAL
($215.13)

Information at Ushio:

ushio.com/search.asp?zoom_query=m10n001&zoom_per_page=10&zoom_cat[]=-1&zoom_and=0&zoom_sort=0


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## Todd_F (Feb 7, 2004)

rockhopperfsrxc said:


> Anyone still have an extra ballast?


I may still have a left over ballast from my conversion to the new-gen bulb/ballast. I'll check and PM you.


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## cdenecke (Sep 20, 2011)

I have new NXG parts for ARC but don't know how to assemble with the 3 wires. Did you add a switch? If so, where would I get one? Yellow and Black are ground, correct? How would you turn the unit on? How would you switch between high and low setting?


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## cdenecke (Sep 20, 2011)

*ARC Bulb Replacement Help*



Todd_F said:


> I may still have a left over ballast from my conversion to the new-gen bulb/ballast. I'll check and PM you.





Todd_F said:


> Everything arrived yesterday. I ordered a complete set of each, 1 old bulb and ballast and one new NGX bulb and ballast. Once I verified that it was my old ballast that kicked the bucket on my L&M light, I went to work on the NGX. It's very simple to wire up as it doesn't require any external voltage regulation. I need to work out the difference in the two bulbs since the NGX beam has a dead spot in the center. I imagine this is due to the arc being in the wrong place within the reflector. So time to make some measurements and adjustments to get it right. Otherwise, it's quite bright!


Could you provide more detail on how you wired up NGX bulb and ballast? I have new NXG parts for ARC but don't know how to assemble with the 3 wires. Did you add a switch? If so, where would I get one? Yellow and Black are ground, correct? How would you turn the unit on? How would you switch between high and low setting?

where did you add the shim? did you essentially move the bulb out closer to the lens?


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## KMan (Dec 30, 2003)

*bulb & ballast*

bringing this thread back from the dead......anyone have any extra bulb/ballast they are not using that they want to sell? Or have any updates if Bulbtronics or anyone else has the bulb/ballast to sell? My L&M Arc-Lion lamp has burned out so I'm looking to fix it....I did contact L&M to see how much their upgrade would cost as well.

Michael


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## cdenecke (Sep 20, 2011)

I just ordered 2 bulbs and a ballset form Ushio. I have questions on how to re-assemble/wire the new ballset and waiting for some help. Here is my order information:

Ushio Order - Angela - 866-383-8836 x4407
Bulb M10N004 - $45 X 2 = ($90.00) 
Ballast B10R001 - $30 x 1 = ($30.00)


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## Jollymountaineer (Oct 13, 2011)

Hi all, anyone doing a group buy soon? Or any one got spair bulbs an resistors, guess ushio is now the place to get the parts? 
I still rate my L&M Arc Lion over the current LED lights so im not ready to give up on it yet!
Cheers all
Daveb


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## vans380 (Sep 11, 2005)

I have an extra Arc lamp that I don't need, along with all accessories. The battery is pretty much dead, but the light itself works fine. PM me if anyone is interested.


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Hi, is there anyone UK based that has a spare bulb and ballast that would sent to Scotland? If not, anyone want to put together an order?

Yours in darkness,........
Andy


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

*I will be putting in a order soon*

I live in California, I will be placing an order with Ushios soon, I too need a ballast and bulb.
send me a PM if interested.


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Hi Dave,,, I can't send Private messages yet as I am a new member.... Would you consider sending a bulb and ballast to scotland?


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

Rocky84,

Sure, What shipping method do you prefer? Also do you have paypal? 

Let me know

Dave


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Well if it arrives real quick then like it could arrive to me within a week air mail it, otherwise just stick it in a box and ship it the cheapest way but it's up to you. My email is mattesonis at hotmail.com, drop me an email with the price and your paypal name and i'll send u the money :thumbsup:


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

rocky84,

I sent you an email yesterday did you receive?

Dave


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## cdenecke (Sep 20, 2011)

I am looking for help getting the NGX bulb and ballast wired up? I don't know how to assemble with the 3 wires. Does anyone know if you need or could add a switch? If so, where would I get one? Yellow and Black are ground, correct? How would you turn the unit on? How would you switch between high and low setting?

Chuck


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

Because the L&M circuit board has two wires, you will have to connect the yellow and black wires together for constant hi beam (14 watt )


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

If I find out a relpacement ballast and bulb does not work and the circuit board is broken, is it time to put my light in the bin?


----------



## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

Assuming your battery is good, their is a thermistor and fusible link inside the battery pack, make sure you are getting voltage to the circuit. board. also there were a lot of these lights sold. see if you can find another LIM that is being sold for parts. or you can sell yours for parts.


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

So I received my NGX bulb and ballast, I hooked it all up and "no light" I was getting power into the circuit board but no power coming out of the board. My friend told me that the NGX ballast was a "self -regulating" ballast, So I clipped out the circuit board and soldered in a household in-line lamp switch, ( battery wired directly to the ballast). It works great! Super bright! I have done two rides without any flickering. Now the lamp switch is not weatherproof so use a different type of switch if you ride in wet weather.

Thanks
Dave


----------



## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Dave, did you order me the same NSX bulb and ballast or do I have the standard type? Does the standard configuration also support the 'self regulating ballast' ? I'm thinking if my circuit board has fried, I could just hard wire the battery to the ballast, as I always disconnect the battery after a ride anyway I don't mind not having a power switch.

As I am not home till next week I have not tested to see if I am getting power from my battery or not. The battery appears to be a sealed unit. I removed the rubber end caps and can see no way to get into the battery. Do you know how I can get access to check the thermistor and fusable link?

Cheers for getting the order through Dave  I sent the final paypay payment this morning.


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

*Photos*

Andy, You are receiving the same NGX part (self regulating ballast), I opted for the in-line switch because my light is helmet mounted and I did not want to take off my backpack each time to operate the light.
you can check for battery power by using a test meter and inserting the probes into the female output terminal. I will email you photos of the fusible link and thermistor. Email me if you are unsure of the installation. Dave


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Ok I know winter is almost over but.... The original parts, direct replacement were these part numbers:

BULB:- M10N002
BALLAST:- B10N008R
These are no longer in production right?

That means the new parts need to be ordered which are:

BULB:- M10N004
BALLAST:- B10R001
(ushio.com enter m10n004 into search at top of page)

SO does anyone have a spare bulb or two they could mail me (uk based would be better), or is anyone puting in an order for new parts? I may make up the maximum order myself to keep a few spares as more and more of the Light and motion ARC's are becoming available on ebay but just wanted to see if anyone else needed a bulb or two.. Lots of spares going on ebay, even the solo logic could be turned into an ARC easy enough?!

NOW has anyone wired in a new ballast to an old circuit board? Can the yellow and black wires simply be joined together and soldered onto the circuit board to maintain Hi/Lo beam and low battery cut off function of the ICB? With my original lamp assembly I have the new NGX parts installed but just run about with the thing on low beam to preserve battery function, the circuit board has been removed and I need to turn on and off by unplugging the battery. Also, the often talked about shim is compulsory, as I ran mine without the shim and the new bulb was hard against the glass lense cover and broke my bulb.  Dave, I know you installed a 3 way switch on the wire to give you remote helmet control, do you have a link to the type of switch you used, is it robust, easy to operate with gloves on and easy to install??

Many thanks


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## MHC (Oct 23, 2009)

I've got 2 ballasts & 2 lamps built into alloy housings with Hi/Lo switch & wired to use Lumicycle batteries, I also have a spare new lamp I'm going to sell, I'm in the UK if anyones interested.


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Hi HMC. Is that a complete HID lamp with the cable, ballast, bulb and lamp yes? I would be interested in buying it from you for the right price.... i can't PM yet as I only have 7 posts.... my email is mattesonis at hotmail . com


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## Maketrails (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi guys. So glad I found this thread. My L&M Arc-Lion blew tonight. Gutted.

I'm pretty sure it's the light head. Is there a final verdict on the exact part numbers I need to replace the bulb and/or ballast? Can anyone give a definitive answer on what they are and how easy it is to replace the old ones? I don't have soldering gear so I'm hoping it's a simple remove and install?

If anyone has the items for sale please let me know. I'm in Melbourne Australia.

Thanks.


----------



## nickz5 (May 5, 2010)

Maketrails said:


> Hi guys. So glad I found this thread. My L&M Arc-Lion blew tonight. Gutted.
> 
> I'm pretty sure it's the light head. Is there a final verdict on the exact part numbers I need to replace the bulb and/or ballast? Can anyone give a definitive answer on what they are and how easy it is to replace the old ones? I don't have soldering gear so I'm hoping it's a simple remove and install?
> 
> ...


I have a spare light head I don't need. I will pm you. I'm in Sydney.


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

*Winter time again*

Hi there,

Anyone going in for a group buy??

It is nearly winter time again!!

I am in the UK


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Light and motion ARC
Old part numbers
BULB:- M10N002
BALLAST:- B10N008R
These are no longer in production.

New parts need to be ordered which are:
BULB:- M10N004
BALLAST:- B10R001
(ushio.com enter m10n004 into search at top of page)


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## DHDave (Dec 22, 2006)

I was going to do a group buy at Ushio within the next couple of weeks, let me know what part number you need.

-Dave


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

2x BULB:- M10N002
1x BALLAST:- B10N008R

how much would this come to? I live in Scotland....


----------



## royta (Jan 17, 2006)

I have an ARC, and I'd like pricing on one bulb and one ballast to Utah, USA. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

rocky84

those are the old part#'s, The new part numbers are listed below.

bulbs new part# M10N004 $45.00 each plus shipping
ballasts new part# B10R001 $30.00 each plus shipping

Let me know if this works for you.

-Dave


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

royta, 
do you have the part numbers? or you can go with the part numbers I used for my ARC, The bulbs are $45.00 each and the ballasts are $30.00 each plus shipping.

let me know.

-Dave


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Oops I ment to quote the new part numbers. What is the minimum buy amount again? I am just after one bulb...


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## DHDave (Dec 22, 2006)

rocky84,

I think we are OK with the minimum, Just bear in mind that the parts are lightweight so there would be a minimum with the US postal, You may want to purchase 2 bulbs for backup.

-Dave


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Well I think its my bulb that has gone, when i fire it up it flashes white/blue for around 2 seconds then is completely dead. Bulb or Ballast? Ive already upgraded to the new parts and have it hard wired to full beam the whole time. I dont want to spend too much more money on these lights....


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## DHDave (Dec 22, 2006)

I am going to order the parts today.


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## rocky84 (Oct 20, 2011)

Did you order me a bulb??


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## gr79b (Nov 30, 2013)

Hi Dave,
just found this thread via Google... obviously too late for the groupb buy...
I also need a new ballast and bulb, or maybe even two sets.
Do you have any left to sell?
Or maybe you can order two sets for me, if this is enough for the minimum order from Ushio? Problem is, I am from Germany, so maybe it is easier for you to buy from Ushio.
I use Paypal, so payment will be no problem.

Holger


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## DHDave (Dec 22, 2006)

Holger.

I am going to do another order. I will get back to you.

-Dave


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## 545crewDave (Oct 21, 2011)

I have these listed on ebay, thanks
USHIO B10R001 Ballast Dual Voltage for Light Motion Mountain Bike Light | eBay

and

Solarc HID Light Bulb for Light Motion Mountain Bike Part M10N004 | eBay


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## DHDave (Dec 22, 2006)

Holger,

Sorry no plans to reorder

Dave


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