# 26" rigid fork, low budget...



## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

I'm putting together a low budget 26" SS. Ideally I'd go with a suspension fork, but it's just not in the budget.
Then I saw the cheap aluminum Mossa forks on ebay, but after doing some research here, it seems that most people think that aluminum makes for a harsh ride.

So, I guess I gonna go with steel.

Can you guys provide some names/places to look for a 26" steel, disk ready fork that's on the cheap?? The bike had a 100mm suspension fork on it, if that matters in choosing a new fork (that fork is shot, in case anyone is wondering why I didn't just use that).

Thanks.


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## mountainflow (Jan 24, 2007)

Surly Instigator or 1x1 depending on your a-c measurement.

EDIT: Here is a list of some suspension fork measurements:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=355830


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## MadDuc916 (Jan 10, 2009)

fightnut,

I have a Surly 1 x 1 that just came off my SS. It is set up for disc or non-disc. Fork is in great shape. if you are interested, PM me and I will send pictures and price. Available now. Here are the specs and pictures from the Surly website.

Rake: 45mm 
Steerer: 260mm
Weight: Disc = 2.34 lbs. (1.1 kg) Non-disc = 2.27 lbs (1.03 kg)










Good luck.


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

mountainflow said:


> Surly Instigator or 1x1 depending on your a-c measurement.
> ]


Ok, I'm a newb at working on my bikes so I'm not really sure what this all means. I'm guessing the "a-c" is axle to crown? 
Does this just mean that measurement needs to be the same as the fork it came with, to keep the angle of the frame correct??

I'm just sorta guessing my way through this, so excuse me if I'm way off base.


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## fightnut (Jul 5, 2007)

Madduc, thanks for the offer, but I'm still just in the "research" phase. I probably won't be buying anything for a while (month?), as this is just a side project and I have a lot of learning to do along the way.
Thanks again though.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

I started to recommend a Kona Project 2, but noticed the 26" models don't have a disc mount - bummer.

How about a Salsa CroMoto? 445mm A-C to replace the 100mm fork
http://www.bikeman.com/FK0502.html


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## skeem (Feb 24, 2009)

i just took a bomber fork off my indy fab if you want it (i think its a 2002 model and i overhauled it with all new internals last summer and it rides real nice). however, i simply put on a surly 1x1 fork a got for 28 bucks and its working well.i think a rigid fork is your best option in case you need to do out of the saddle climbing. ive only done 4 rides on my surly fork but for the money (new /used) its your best bet- there are nicer surly forks too, but the 1x1 is a nice option.


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## umarth (Dec 5, 2007)

I think you will need to have a bit taller for a frame built around 100mm travel. Dimension makes a good fork for around 60, so it is about half the price of the Salsa, but I think it is only 410 a-c. The Salsa is probably the best choice.


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## bbrins (Nov 2, 2009)

> I started to recommend a Kona Project 2, but noticed the 26" models don't have a disc mount - bummer.


You can get them with both disc and rim brake mounts, depending on a - c size.

http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=87429&page=KONA+PROJECT+2+MTB+RIGID+FORK


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## mountainflow (Jan 24, 2007)

fightnut said:


> Ok, I'm a newb at working on my bikes so I'm not really sure what this all means. I'm guessing the "a-c" is axle to crown?
> Does this just mean that measurement needs to be the same as the fork it came with, to keep the angle of the frame correct??
> 
> I'm just sorta guessing my way through this, so excuse me if I'm way off base.


You are guessing correctly :thumbsup: . a-c does mean axle to crown. To measure this, just take a pen or pencil and tie a string around it. Place it in the dropouts of your fork, and pull the string to the area where the bottom part of your headset (the race) is seated to your fork. This is the a-c measurement.

The a-c distance has a direct effect on the handling of your bike due to the change in head angle. Generally, the longer that distance, the slacker the ht angle, the more stable the handling and the better at fast downhills or drops. The shorter the distance, the steeper the angle, the faster the steering becomes, and the better at climbing. A 25mm change in a-c length will change your head angle about 1 degree either way. A rough estimate of normal values are in the 70-73 deg. range for cross country, 67-70 for all mountain, and 66-69 for downhill.

Once you have this measurement, you can then decide if you liked the way your current fork rode; or maybe you would like it to have quicker steering and better climbing (shorter), or have more stable steering and better descending (longer). Either way, I wouldn't go too crazy in changing from what was on the bike. I wouldn't go more than 25mm either way from stock for now.

Dimension - 410 a-c
Surly 1x1 - 413 a-c
Kona P2 - 440 a-c 
Surly Instigator - 447 a-c

These will all fit your needs of an inexpensive steel rigid fork, and there are others out there as well.


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## jmkimmel (Jan 23, 2006)

Since the OP brought it up, has anyone used the cheapo mosso forks from ebay? Once I put a big tire on it with ~25psi, I'm not sure I could tell a difference between a cheap steel and cheap alu fork anyway...


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