# Minimalist rear rack for a dry bag



## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

I'm looking for something like this... (I realize it's custom)









I'm running 29+ wheels on a small Surly Wednesday (rear spacing = 177, so that makes most racks like the Tumbleweed a no-go). My seat is a Selle Anatomica X2, and they don't recommend any more than 3 pounds hanging from the seat, which is why I'm looking for a rack. No interest in panniers- just a dry bag, so I'd rather not add all the weight of most of the racks I've seen for fat bikes (even though mine is kind-of mid-fat). 
The rack in the pic looks almost perfect. The Tumbleweed racks look great, but he said they won't fit my wide rear. Any ideas?


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## Super E (Nov 5, 2004)

You might try Meriwether Cycles or Walt Works, I’ve seen a few custom racks from them in some other posts.


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## Super E (Nov 5, 2004)

Also there's Handcrafted Forks, Racks, Decaleur - Norther cycles (not cheap, but you get whatever you want).


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks, but custom is going to cost more than I want to spend. (I looked at a few custom builders before I posted this thread.)


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## charcist (May 29, 2007)

Did you take a look at Old Man Mountain Racks? Old Man Mountain | Bicycle Cargo Racks for All Bikes
Perhaps not as minimalist as you'd like, but lightweight and cheap usually equals "not strong". Good luck finding that balance point that works for you.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

charcist said:


> Did you take a look at Old Man Mountain Racks? Old Man Mountain | Bicycle Cargo Racks for All Bikes
> Perhaps not as minimalist as you'd like, but lightweight and cheap usually equals "not strong". Good luck finding that balance point that works for you.


Yep, they are out of stock and "do not have an ETA on Fat Sherpas for the immediate future", so I figured they aren't an option.


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## She&I (Jan 4, 2010)

Buy a cheap rack you can modify or use part(s) of.

Cheaper still, put your bag on that saddle and go. Stainless steel rails going to break? _The new frame used with our Series 2 saddles is lighter weight, stronger, and user serviceable. _My previous-gen T has had seat bags strapped to it for, literally, months. Including the MOAB, the Viscasha, plum full. Leather mountain bike saddle you can't put a seat bag on - LOL Fred & co. Saddle rails bend and break from 100+ lbs of rider, not from a <10 lb seat bag. I smell CYA. Use the damn thing.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

She&I said:


> Buy a cheap rack you can modify or use part(s) of.
> 
> Cheaper still, put your bag on that saddle and go. Stainless steel rails going to break? _The new frame used with our Series 2 saddles is lighter weight, stronger, and user serviceable. _My previous-gen T has had seat bags strapped to it for, literally, months. Including the MOAB, the Viscasha, plum full. Leather mountain bike saddle you can't put a seat bag on - LOL Fred & co. Saddle rails bend and break from 100+ lbs of rider, not from a <10 lb seat bag. I smell CYA. Use the damn thing.


I'd like to use the Revelate Spinelock, but at 1.5 pounds, I was worried about the [expensive] seat. Maybe I'll give it a shot. I'm still not sold on this seat (and I'm within the 30-day return period), so if I switch back to my SQLab saddle, I'll likely buy that Spinelock.


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## Super E (Nov 5, 2004)

Maybe you should consider the Thule Pack 'n Pedal rear rack. I've seen quite a few people successfully use these on some rather trying expeditions... Thule Tour Rack


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Super E said:


> Maybe you should consider the Thule Pack 'n Pedal rear rack. I've seen quite a few people successfully use these on some rather trying expeditions... Thule Tour Rack


I think if I went that route, I'd try the Aeroe Spider...









It weighs almost a 1/2 pound less and it looks like a more modern design of the Thule. (I think the designer had something to do with that Thule rack.) However, it's still pretty heavy at 950 grams and I can only find a couple of real-world reviews. The company said it would fit my 177 rear, which surprised me.


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## lentamentalisk (Jul 21, 2015)

broadwayron said:


> I can only find a couple of real-world reviews.


Bikepacking.com just did a review:








Aeroe Spider Rear Rack Review: Look Mom, No Mounts!


The Aeroe Spider Rear Rack is a modular rear rack system that can be used alongside the included cradle to hold any dry bag or tent, or integrated into a more complex system using Aeroe's quick-release gear pods. We've been testing the entire system to see if it's as durable and convenient as...




bikepacking.com


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

The Tumbleweed T Rack looks like what you're after. You could get a different seat clamp that has the 2 x bolt mounts on if your frame doesn't have the mounts near the top of the stays.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

TooTallUK said:


> The Tumbleweed T Rack looks like what you're after. You could get a different seat clamp that has the 2 x bolt mounts on if your frame doesn't have the mounts near the top of the stays.


That was my original intent, but I asked the Tumbleweed guy if they would fit a 177 rear and he said no.
My frame has mounts on the stays for a rack- (actually, it has a lot of mounts considering it's a small).


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

What about getting a new saddle with same shape but stronger rails - then you open up all the big seat bag options...?

COBikeman


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

broadwayron said:


> That was my original intent, but I asked the Tumbleweed guy if they would fit a 177 rear and he said no.
> My frame has mounts on the stays for a rack- (actually, it has a lot of mounts considering it's a small).


Sorry - I missed the Tumbleweed reference in your post. 
How about getting some alu rod and making your own stays for it that are splayed / bent to fit the frame? It wouldn't be difficult and would be more than strong enough. I made my own stays to fit a Salsa rear rack using alu rod, alu tubing and epoxy.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

CObikeman said:


> What about getting a new saddle with same shape but stronger rails - then you open up all the big seat bag options...?
> 
> COBikeman


If it were only that simple! I've never had a comfortable seat, but when riding trails, I'm out of the seat enough where it's not a big deal. This bike is for "longer rides" (well, long for me and this type of riding is new to me). My sit bones hurt on every ride, and I've got "good" saddles... the X2 might be the best I've tried. Followed by my SQlab 610 Ergolux 2. I also have a Chromag Trailmaster LTD (and about 6 other seats). The X2 hurts the least, which is why I'm using it.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

TooTallUK said:


> Sorry - I missed the Tumbleweed reference in your post.
> How about getting some alu rod and making your own stays for it that are splayed / bent to fit the frame? It wouldn't be difficult and would be more than strong enough. I made my own stays to fit a Salsa rear rack using alu rod, alu tubing and epoxy.


I thought about that, but it would be a lot of work. However, I did some measuring, and I think I could mount the bottom mounts on the _inside_ of my stays (it's right around 150mm there) and I think the T Rack might work on the rear for me, like in this pic. (Even though it's supposed to be a front rack).


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## CObikeman (Nov 25, 2014)

broadwayron said:


> If it were only that simple! I've never had a comfortable seat, but when riding trails, I'm out of the seat enough where it's not a big deal. This bike is for "longer rides" (well, long for me and this type of riding is new to me). My sit bones hurt on every ride, and I've got "good" saddles... the X2 might be the best I've tried. Followed by my SQlab 610 Ergolux 2. I also have a Chromag Trailmaster LTD (and about 6 other seats). The X2 hurts the least, which is why I'm using it.


I hear you. But really - She&I made a point that was my next thought. How is hanging a few pounds from the seat any different than a slightly heavier rider sitting on the seat. Loaded seat bag is what 10 lbs? As for seat bags - Terrapin > Spinelock IMO.

COBikeman


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

This is an old Salsa rack and you can see the seat stays are separate to the rack platform. This makes it easy to make / alter the stays to fit whatever you want. I made these to fit on my rear seat stays with a clip and the seat clamp with threaded bolt holes. I wanted something to carry a dry bag lower than my seat. Works.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

CObikeman said:


> I hear you. But really - She&I made a point that was my next thought. How is hanging a few pounds from the seat any different than a slightly heavier rider sitting on the seat. Loaded seat bag is what 10 lbs? As for seat bags - Terrapin > Spinelock IMO.
> 
> COBikeman


Because it's basically a leather hammock so I think weight pushing down from the top is different than weight hanging from the bottom. I don't know the actual mechanics, but I think that's the gist.


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

I think you're overthinking it, although I see that saddle is supposed to be for max 190 lbs.... are you close to that?


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

J_Westy said:


> I think you're overthinking it, although I see that saddle is supposed to be for max 190 lbs.... are you close to that?


Nope, not even close. I'm a small guy... 150 lbs.

I just realized with my small frame and big rims, I don't even have room for a Spinelock. I've only got 6" from my seat to the tire!


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Oh man, you're screwed. As a 6'7" cyclist I can't even get my head around how little frame that is for that much wheel! Bikepacking for you must mean a credit card and a windproof jacket - you best fit it all in a bar bag!


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## J_Westy (Jan 7, 2009)

broadwayron said:


> I just realized with my small frame and big rims, I don't even have room for a Spinelock. I've only got 6" from my seat to the tire!


Single-speed bikepacking - dang.

Maybe go with a couple EXP Anything Cages and Bags up front instead?


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

TooTallUK said:


> Oh man, you're screwed. As a 6'7" cyclist I can't even get my head around how little frame that is for that much wheel! Bikepacking for you must mean a credit card and a windproof jacket - you best fit it all in a bar bag!


Haha, yeah, small frames with large wheels look silly. Especially since I have a lot of seatpost exposed.


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## Keevy Raes (Mar 30, 2020)

i use a Racktime boostit on my Krampus


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## p0is0n0ak (May 17, 2007)

I am extremely new to the bike packing world, so I get that my thoughts might not be worth much; that said, as I contemplate my set-up, I keep coming back to this tailfin rack. They have a lot of spendy options, but their cheapest alloy version looks killer and pretty versatile.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

p0is0n0ak said:


> I am extremely new to the bike packing world, so I get that my thoughts might not be worth much; that said, as I contemplate my set-up, I keep coming back to this tailfin rack. They have a lot of spendy options, but their cheapest alloy version looks killer and pretty versatile.


 I was talking to them, and they have a couple of shorter-length racks in their warehouse (special order- not on their site). I measured, and it would've fit my bike pretty good, but the bags are out of stock. On that model, you need the bag, because that is what connects to your seatpost. 
I ended up ordering an Aeroe Spider... it's heavier than I wanted, but I don't have a lot of options for rear-mounted bags on my bike.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Following up on this old thread... since I posted this, I sold my small frame and bought a medium (better fit for longer rides), had a custom Rogue Panda frame bag made, and my Tumbleweed rear rack just arrived- it fits perfect!
The sad thing is, it's all dressed up and nowhere to go! Now that things are opening back up, my fiance has all sorts of plans, so our two summer rides are not happening. It's bittersweet... the bike is ready to go now, but I have so many other things happening (mainly concerts, which is good, I suppose).

ETA: I was told by the Tumbleweed guy that the leg spacing is only 150mm so it wouldn't fit my 177 rear, but since it's steel, there's no problem at all.


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## Quercus agrifolia (Jan 30, 2005)

Sweet setup! Those bags look great on that bike. I have the same 'topo sunset' frame bag from Rogue...it's held up great.

I'm also now on the search for a long-term solution to not using a seat bag, now that I have a dropper. That T rack might be just the ticket.


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## JustRon (Nov 20, 2009)

Quercus agrifolia said:


> Sweet setup! Those bags look great on that bike. I have the same 'topo sunset' frame bag from Rogue...it's held up great.
> 
> I'm also now on the search for a long-term solution to not using a seat bag, now that I have a dropper. That T rack might be just the ticket.


I ordered the topo sunset color when I had a black frame (which would have looked better), but I don't mind it with the blue frame. The Tumbleweed racks are hard to get; mine took months to arrive! I thought I would need to rig it to fit, but I didn't even have to cut anything... just added a spacer on the brake side to give a little clearance for my caliper.


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## o0STEREO0o (2 mo ago)

JustRon said:


> I'm looking for something like this... (I realize it's custom)
> View attachment 1924272
> 
> 
> ...


Tumbleweed has 2 models, the T rack and mini panier rack.


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## Bray D (Aug 28, 2010)

JustRon said:


> View attachment 1937324


This is perfect. I run a rack on my Wednesday also, but it’s a cheap one that I cut up to make work. Fits well, but the dry bag hugs my seat post making dropper use implausible.











I considered mounting it on the rearmost position to get the bag away from my seatpost, but I have massive interference with my brake caliper. Do you have pics of how it’s mounted on the non drive side? If it comes to it, I may ditch this cheap rack and pick up a Tumbleweed. Yours fits so good.


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Just FYI, if you are springing a rack apart to fit it to the bike, you are putting stress on the welds...they will fail faster than they usually would.

It's always a good idea to bend the rack/stay/etc OFF the bike, so there is minimal springing to fit. If you're worried about crimping a tube, fill it with fine sand/tamp, repeating until you can fit no more. Plug/otherwise secure the open end, and bend away.


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## Bray D (Aug 28, 2010)

I suppose that’s a decent segue into my rack build. Perhaps someone will find this useful.

This rack is less than $50 and is wide enough to fit a fat bike. It uses spacers between the rack legs and the bike. I just machined mine down to increase the rack mounting width. No bending or residual stress. 




























It’s hella tall though. 










So I drilled new holes further up the leg to slam it down on the tire. Machined a crude seatpost clamp mount, and rolled out.



















It holds A LOT of weight. I’ve been using it since 2018 without issue. 

Back to my previous question - how do people get around the caliper to use the lowest mount on the Wednesday? Does it require something rack specific or is there a general adapter available?


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## wschruba (Apr 13, 2012)

Bray D said:


> I suppose that’s a decent segue into my rack build. Perhaps someone will find this useful.
> 
> This rack is less than $50 and is wide enough to fit a fat bike. It uses spacers between the rack legs and the bike. I just machined mine down to increase the rack mounting width. No bending or residual stress.
> 
> ...


The low, rear mount tab is intended for a fender; they aren't meant for holding a rack. I suspect their dropouts are a "generic" one shared by several of their bikes. I've used them on some [other brand] bikes for racks occasionally, when the upper tab isn't a good location, but only for light duty. If you were convinced that it was a sturdy location for a rack , you could use _ye olde _bike shop standby of stacking presta locknuts for spacers. Or, you know, make your own, since you obviously have the machinery. Just eyeballing based on your photo, but the clearance doesn't look so tight that a spacer/a bit of bending wouldn't clear it.

After looking at some close-ups, it doesn't look like a terrible location/connection for supporting a large load, but knowing what it's "for", I would probably avoid it. I'd rather have the load more towards the center of the bike, anyhow.


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## DougA (Apr 3, 2008)

I was after the same minimalist rack for my fat bike. And ran into the same issues of not finding something suitable for a fat bike. Luckily I have a friend who built me a custom. Since then I think the OMM Elkhorn came out and would work I think. However I liked my custom enough to ask him build me another for my plusser. Yes the T-rack would work here but the custom is perfect! 
Point of my post is check into the OMM Elkhorn for a fat minimal rack.


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## Bray D (Aug 28, 2010)

wschruba said:


> The low, rear mount tab is intended for a fender; they aren't meant for holding a rack. I suspect their dropouts are a "generic" one shared by several of their bikes. I've used them on some [other brand] bikes for racks occasionally, when the upper tab isn't a good location, but only for light duty. If you were convinced that it was a sturdy location for a rack , you could use _ye olde _bike shop standby of stacking presta locknuts for spacers. Or, you know, make your own, since you obviously have the machinery. Just eyeballing based on your photo, but the clearance doesn't look so tight that a spacer/a bit of bending wouldn't clear it.
> 
> After looking at some close-ups, it doesn't look like a terrible location/connection for supporting a large load, but knowing what it's "for", I would probably avoid it. I'd rather have the load more towards the center of the bike, anyhow.


The internet wins again. I was curious how Surly mounted their own racks so I did a quick search. Surly rack on a Surly Wednesday from the blog on the Surly site. 










Mounted to the dropout eyelet and carrying a whole lotta wood. They mentioned using a 7-8mm spacer to clear the caliper. Strange to me that the go-to approach is to rock an offset rack (spacer on one side only), but it works. Simple enough.

I considered making my own for sure. I still might pending how ridiculous my current one looks positioned on the dropout mounts and how hard I want to squeeze my pennies.

All for the sake of maintaining dropper function. Worth it.

And hell yeah [mention]DougA [/mention] that rack is sick.


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## Bray D (Aug 28, 2010)

This thread motivated me to whittle on some aluminum this weekend. Made longer legs so I could mount it on my dropouts. 

Location on the bike is perfect. This is an overstuffed 13L dry bag. 



















Fully stoked on that. Not so stoked on the offset. I just moved both of my spacers to the non drive side to clear the caliper. Can’t go much shorter on the spacer either. Currently pondering how to get it centered up. I mount Nalgenes on each rack leg so I’d like to keep it symmetric if possible. 










Edit to keep things concise:

I did some he-man hand bending off the bike and got it centered up. Drive side has a 3/8” spacer (what I was using previously on the seatstay mount). Non drive side has a 3/4” spacer to clear the caliper. 


























That’ll do for me. Long story short, this cheap rack can be made to work, but it’ll take some finessing.


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## jedessinais (28 d ago)

Look at here! Rear racks


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