# Contest - best design for a sub $80 bike light



## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

*Contest rules*
Present a design with an Easy2led housing of a bike light which costs less than $80 in parts but delivers more than 400 lumen (battery pack and charger are excluded from the cost calculation). The proposed design may use more than 1 housing.

The designs must be presented in this thread before June, 15.
The winner will be announced on June, 20.

The winner must then make the bike light with his/her proposed design.

*Prize*
1st place - 2 Easy2LED housings
2nd place - 1 Easy2LED housing


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

ooh, a competition!

I would go this route:

Ledil Laura RS ($3)
XM-L U2 from KD ($10)
Lflex from Task LED ($26)
Waterproof switch from Digikey ($8)
MS 5.5mm cable from DX ($3.50)
Cateye spacer and helmet mount and bar mount ($12)
Total $67.50 (plus $12 if you buy some Sugru for the strain relief instead of making it)

Running at 3A should produce ~1000lms, with a medium mode of 4-500lms and low of 100lms or so.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

My first light exceeded the $80 range for sure, but I'm in the process of doing a simpler less expensive build. Should easily exceed 400 lumens. Assuming the driver actually provides about 2.4A (which is what some users have reported), the led will be producing about 770 lumens. Further assuming 15% loss due to optics, out the front lumens will be around 650. Estimating about 9 watts power consumption.

XM-L T6 from ledsupply.com $11.14
Carclo Narrow optic from ledsupply.com $1.25
Lens holder from ledsupply.com $0.23
Easy2led housing $25.00
Switch/wire from batteryspace.com $9.99
Cable gland from batteryspace.com $2.99
Triple mode 2.8A driver from dealextreme.com $5.00
Marwi helmet mount from hoffmanamps.com $8.85

$64.45

All these parts are on order or already in hand. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to put it all together. I will probably really use just velcro for mounting the light to my helmet, but the Marwi helmet mount is far more versatile.

Edit: had to change single mode driver to triple mode driver as the single mode was too large in diameter.


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## Goldigger (Nov 6, 2009)

$78.80 that leaves change for some wet and dry paper so i can sand the black off and make it silver


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

does the total cost of parts need to include the housing? I couldn't do it for less than $80 if it did as I'd have to drop the Lflex, which would be a big downgrade to the light.


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## yetibetty (Dec 24, 2007)

Changed my mind.


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## Uzzi_PA (Dec 15, 2009)

I'm using 3 of these 7135 drivers in series to achieve any combo of; 1 amp, 2 amps or 3 amps. The Judco switch has 3 positions, perfectly suited for this series driver combo. The rest is pretty simple, and easily waterproofed. This setup should have at least 600-700 lumens per head and have a narrow and wide beam.

minus the housings it came out to $70 for both heads, so I almost though I had a viable 2 head design, but then I remembered 

The LFlex driver was tempting, but that would only leave $30 for the nitty gritty stuff.


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

> Marwi helmet mount from hoffmanamps.com $8.85


Yo Baker, you can drop your total build price
The Marwi helmet mounts are only $4.25

Marwi 35mm housings can be figured in at $5 or $6 each if anyone can use them in their pretend bike light builds.

All the parts mentioned are here.

http://www.hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/PartsLed.htm


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

El34 said:


> Yo Baker, you can drop your total build price
> The Marwi helmet mounts are only $4.25


I was being lazy with my list... 
Marwi helmet mount $4.25
MagicShine to Marwi adapter $3.50
Marwi mount kit $0.80

For a total of $8.55


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## El34 (Jan 11, 2009)

ah, ok, I see what you did. 

BTW, thanks for the web site mention


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## Uzzi_PA (Dec 15, 2009)

Good point. I built up 2 lights using your housings for around $100 (not pretend) I prefer the bigger MR11 housing, I transplanted most of the parts from that build for my design. The only problem is I'm finding it a little heavy; with my sloppily soldered copper heat sinks and the thick aluminum reflectors, it kind of bounces around on the mount.

This housing would be best used for a lite weight single headed helmet spot light.


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## Road_Runner (Mar 31, 2009)

Here's my pitch for the super-dooper prize on offer:

Easy2LED housing $25
XPG R5 Cool-White 3-Up Indus Star  $20
Narrow 3-Up Carclo Optic $1.50c
5v - 8-4v 15w 5-mode driver from DX $4
11mm clicky switch from KD $0.38c (each)
MS 100cm cable from DX, cut to size and the remainder canabalised for the internal wiring $3.12
Grommet 6.4mm x 4.0mm x 9.5mm x 6.3mm $0.03c (each)
Cateye bracket and spacer $4.50

Grand total = $58.15

- Maximum output from the driver is around 0.8A so from 3 XPGs that should make for more than 400lm

- The switch will be interference fitted into a hole drilled through the end cap, sealed with glue both inside and out

- Make a 0.5mm deep, 2mm wide, slot either side of the central axis of the tube to a depth of 20mm. The driver board slides into it and can be glued in place, if required

- The Magicshine cable passes through the grommet to provide a waterproof seal, but if lubricated with WD40 the fit is not so tight that it can't rotate when the end cap is screwed on, so no stress is put on the internal wiring.

Was intendng to have a go at making one of these anyway, so it won't break my heart if I don't win, but free high-quality parts are always nice if you should happen upon them.


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Road_Runner said:


> Here's my pitch for the super-dooper prize on offer:
> 
> Easy2LED housing $25
> XPG R5 Cool-White 3-Up Indus Star  $20
> ...


I like this build. The only thing I'd be concerned about: will the driver fit into the housing? Looks like it is 26mm in diameter. I have similar concerns with the DX driver I've chosen, as it is listed as 25mm in diamter. Maybe they'd be easy to downsize?


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## Road_Runner (Mar 31, 2009)

baker said:


> I like this build. The only thing I'd be concerned about: will the driver fit into the housing? Looks like it is 26mm in diameter. I have similar concerns with the DX driver I've chosen, as it is listed as 25mm in diamter. Maybe they'd be easy to downsize?


Well, if you make two slots 0.5mm deep and 2mm wide on the inside of the housing (by careful filing in my case) and trim a tiny bit off either side of the driver board, where they were joined to the other boards, it should all fit snugly.

Having looked again at the dimensions of the Easy2LED from the webpage perhaps the parallel slots need only be 15mm in depth for the driver to fit in.

It might be a bit of a squeeze in there, but I'd like to attempt it.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> ooh, a competition!
> 
> I would go this route:
> 
> ...


Not surprisingly, I'm thinking along similar lines to Matt.

Should be possible to get in there with the cost of the housing too:
Housing :$25
L-flex $26
XML-U2- $10
Waterproof switch via eBay -$5
Dx Cable with connectors $3.50
Regina or Leidl Laura $3
Mount- 3M Dual-lock $2 + section of angled aluminum $1 + extra velcro $0.25 + bolt $.025. 
Cable gland $2.

$78 total, all the flexibility of the L-flex.

Now, if you have to get stuff shipped from Batteryspace, add $65 more :madman:


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

mattthemuppet said:


> does the total cost of parts need to include the housing? I couldn't do it for less than $80 if it did as I'd have to drop the Lflex, which would be a big downgrade to the light.


Correct, the housing should be included. Otherwise the contest would be: "just add L333"


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

zemike said:


> Correct, the housing should be included. Otherwise the contest would be: "just add L333"


I think an L333 would come to more than $80 for the parts (let alone including postage), if you wanted a switch and cable 

ok, so:

Housing ($25)
Ledil Laura RS ($2)
XM-L U2 from KD ($10)
Lflex from Task LED ($22)
Waterproof switch from Digikey ($6)
MS 5.5mm cable from DX ($3.12)
Cateye spacer and bar mount ($4.50) or spacer and helmet mount ($8)
Total $72.62 or $76.12

as others above, not taking into account postage from parts suppliers


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> I think an L333 would come to more than $80 for the parts (let alone including postage), if you wanted a switch and cable
> 
> ok, so:
> 
> ...


Not to be picky, but isn't the Laura RS a square optic? Might not a round optic be better if it fit?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Not to be picky, but isn't the Laura RS a square optic? Might not a round optic be better if it fit?


it is, but once you pop it out of the holder it should be easier to grind the corners off to make it round  Shorter than a regina too, which might help with the build.


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## Toaster79 (Apr 5, 2010)

mattthemuppet said:


> it is, but once you pop it out of the holder it should be easier to grind the corners off to make it round  Shorter than a regina too, which might help with the build.


Or you just take LXP-RS which is the same optic in round form


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

> This housing would be best used for a lite weight single headed helmet spot light.


Here is my list for a 2 x XM-L helmet spot-light (1000 lumens from the LED, 800 OTF ?)

easy2led housing 25.00
*2 x *XM-L U2 23.16
KD 105 Driver 4.70
Switch  0.94
aspherical lens 5.00
Y-Cable 3.13
http://www.rigidmount.com/battery_case.html 13.00
Mount: Velcro Strap 1.60

Total *76.53*

Batteries and Charger 15.80
Light, Batteries, Charger 92.33

The LED-boards need to be filed down a bit, then be wired in parallel. Each LED will be driven at 3.2 V (=Vf) and 1.4A (2800mA/2) on high. If someone could tell me how to wire two drivers together, I might try that as well!


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

That lens is 24mm in diameter while the housing is only 22mm. Or at least the description says so, the drawing makes it look otherwise.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

Toaster79 said:


> Or you just take LXP-RS which is the same optic in round form


neat., thanks! I didn't know that :blush:


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

*Diameters*



kan3 said:


> That lens is 24mm in diameter while the housing is only 22mm. Or at least the description says so, the drawing makes it look otherwise.





zemike said:


> The product evolved into a universal housing which can be used with Quazzle modules or any other LED/optic combo which doesn't exceed *24mm* in diameter and 19mm in height (driver compartment - 7.5mm height, e.g. MaxFlex).





zemike said:


> the rear cap and the ring with the glass inside are screwed in the body. *M25* threads, so the rear cap and the ring are swappable
> 
> What are the dimensions of the rear cap, to work out how much space there is for switch and/ or cable gland?
> minimum height - 11.5mm, diameter - *22mm*


I hope the drawing on the easy2led homepage is right perhaps zemike can clarify?


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## unterhausen (Sep 28, 2008)

is the easy2led housing long enough for a Regina?


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## mfj197 (Jan 28, 2011)

mrradlos said:


> Here is my list for a 2 x XM-L helmet spot-light (1000 lumens from the LED, 800 OTF ?)
> The LED-boards need to be filed down a bit, then be wired in parallel. Each LED will be driven at 3.2 V (=Vf) and 1.4A (2800mA/2) on high. If someone could tell me how to wire two drivers together, I might try that as well!


How are you going to use 2 XM-Ls? Even if you cut the stars almost in half the LED dies won't be touching so won't you be left with two separate squares as a beam pattern?

I have seen a thread over on candlepowerforums with information on how to use one driver to drive two LEDs in series when being driven from a 2S battery pack. IIRC the driver was connected across one LED and the two LEDs basically acted as a voltage divider. I can't remember exactly where that was though. Of course you could use two of the drivers you have found and modify one of them by removing the microcontroller and connecting the PWM inputs of the 7135 chips to the PWM output of the remaining microcontroller. Would be some fiddly soldering though.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

mfj197 said:


> How are you going to use 2 XM-Ls? Even if you cut the stars almost in half the LED dies won't be touching so won't you be left with two separate squares as a beam pattern?
> 
> I have seen a thread over on candlepowerforums with information on how to use one driver to drive two LEDs in series when being driven from a 2S battery pack. IIRC the driver was connected across one LED and the two LEDs basically acted as a voltage divider. I can't remember exactly where that was though. Of course you could use two of the drivers you have found and modify one of them by removing the microcontroller and connecting the PWM inputs of the 7135 chips to the PWM output of the remaining microcontroller. Would be some fiddly soldering though.


The stars are 16mm diameter, the housing is 24-25mm. So I have to cut away 2mm on euach side of each star at the most (16-2-2=12; 2*12=24)!
I hope I could have the lens slightly out of focus, getting one spot (two blured melting in one) instead of two squares.

I would really like to drive the LEDs in paralell by just one 18650 - two are too heavy for the helmet for my taste.


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## mfj197 (Jan 28, 2011)

mrradlos said:


> The stars are 16mm diameter, the housing is 24-25mm. So I have to cut away 2mm on euach side of each star at the most (16-2-2=12; 2*12=24)!
> I hope I could have the lens slightly out of focus, getting one spot (two blured melting in one) instead of two squares.
> 
> I would really like to drive the LEDs in paralell by just one 18650 - two are too heavy for the helmet for my taste.


Ah, I see your thinking. With the aspheric defocussed you could end up with a nice wide beam - defocussed aspherics produce a good flat light. My only concern would be, with the centres of the LEDs 12mm apart (each one 6mm off the centre line) and with let's say 12mm between the LEDs and the lens, the angle between the centres of the beams would be just over 50 degrees (2 x tan-1 (6/12) ). That's a big spread, but the idea might work if you filed more off the stars to bring the LEDs closer together.

The driver you've linked to looks the same as one sold by shiningbeam - in which case I have two of them. Not bad little units at all. The only difficulty is there's a protection diode on the input which reduces the headroom before the light goes out of regulation (effectively it takes a small chunk out of the available battery voltage). It's a problem with the P7 LED I have but on an XM-L should be less of an issue as the XM-L has a lower forward voltage. There's also some documentation on bypassing this diode which is what I'd do.


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## Road_Runner (Mar 31, 2009)

Road_Runner said:


> Here's my pitch for the super-dooper prize on offer:
> 
> Easy2LED housing $25
> XPG R5 Cool-White 3-Up Indus Star  $20
> ...


First design revision coming up because I've come to the conclusion that my first driver choice 5v - 8-4v 15w 5-mode driver from DX can't be made to fit in the housing so I'll be using this $3.54c one instead which will definitely fit in the housing and thereby also shave $0.45c off the total price which is now down to $57.70


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## randomcar (Jun 10, 2011)

anyone tried of cheap chinese lights?
I am just viewing dx site, dunno it's a reliable seller or not.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

kan3 said:


> That lens is 24mm in diameter while the housing is only 22mm. Or at least the description says so, the drawing makes it look otherwise.


The housing internal diameter is 25mm (M25 thread)
The front glass diameter is 22mm, so it is possible to install a 24mm optic, but you'll loose some precious lumens.


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## gozal (Jun 16, 2010)

its very reliable website... its chinese stuff, 70% quality, and 100% cheap!


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

I would go the following way:
$ 25 - Easy2Led Enclosure
$ 10.9 - Cree XM-L U2 Led - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11257
$ 4.7 - Driver - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10995 
$ 1.55 - Connectors - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=68
$ 0.5 - Normally Open Push Button switch
$ 1.9 - Power Relay - http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PB336-ND
$ 2.2 - Ledil Regina Reflector - 
http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=XP-C/E/G+Single+Lenses&pg=2

Cables from Old ATX computer Power Supply.

46.75 Total for around 1000 lumen!

I would choose the Power Relay because switches eventually Fail. At least mine sooner or later do fail.
I need reliable lights for mountain biking. Also I'd go for the simple 7134 driver for the same reason. Fancy drivers gave up. I'd keep the cables as short as possible. The Relay would be in series with the battery connected on the *Normally Closed *position. This way it will stay *allways ON*, the signal from the push button switch would be send to the Relay and should only disconnect the Power from the circuit for a second, just to change modes. So not much chances for failures!
I have build many lights for me and friends so from expierience I end up to such a configuration with great results and no failures so far.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

If a mount is in need I'd use the following:
$ 3.75 -Universal Bicycle Mount- http://www.dealextreme.com/p/universal-bicycle-mount-22mm-32-8mm-15342
I keep the lower part for the bar mounted lights, it sould fit perfectly on the easy2led case. So far it's been fine with my projects.
So that would make a *Total of 50.5 $*.
Combine that with a second helmet light, and you've got a killer 2000 lumens on the road for less than a 100 $. 
I 'd later send inforation for easy DIY battery packs, holders and charger solution.


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

Well, the deadline is approaching, tomorrow I will post a poll to vote for the best design.

The idea with the relay is very nice, I wonder if can be used for high and low beam setups.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

manokaiser said:


> I would go the following way:
> $ 25 - Easy2Led Enclosure
> $ 10.9 - Cree XM-L U2 Led - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11257
> $ 4.7 - Driver - http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10995
> ...


How would you heat sink the driver?
I suppose a more general question with this housing is, will we get a thermal bottleneck if the LED is on the front of the internal divider and the driver on the back of the same divider?


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

zemike said:


> Well, the deadline is approaching, tomorrow I will post a poll to vote for the best design.
> 
> The idea with the relay is very nice, I wonder if can be used for high and low beam setups.


The Relay can handle 12 A @ 28 V, has 2 positions, a Normally Open and a Normally Closed, switched by a signal to it's internal coil. Those positions could easyly be used for low and high beam with proper circuitry. The driver I use can have multiple modes arranged at will. I prefer 3 modes, low mid and high. The way to change those modes is to brake the circuit for a short time, so by having the relay supplying power to the driver on the normally closed position the light is ON. Then I use a signal from the push button to the coil to quickly switch OFF the relay and then it returns back ON, effectively changing between the modes. This way the circuit leaves no room to failures from the Switch, which I faced sooner or later with all the other options I tried. Combine that with those 80A connectors and a very simple 7135 driver, Single Cell battery, with no extra need for Ballancing and Control as with multiple Cell configuration and the design gets bulletproof!
In addition this configuration keeps power cables short for low loses and can arrange the signal switch next to the handle for easy changes on the fly.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

> How would you heat sink the driver?
> I suppose a more general question with this housing is, will we get a thermal bottleneck if the LED is on the front of the internal divider and the driver on the back of the same divider?


http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aluminum-cree-reflector-module-set-no-emitter-3257

I 've used the above reflector in my current light, which uses the same Driver and Led back to back. I have no issues with heat as long as things gets moving. The driver has thermal and overdecharge protection, it lowers the current or mode. I would experiment with this new enclosure and it's thermal behavior and get back with a solution. If more heatsinking is needed I would add some piece of aluminum cut off from some CPU, GPU , Chipset or any other spare heatsinks between the base of the case and the holder.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

Well, Since Zemike has opened the  Poll  allready, please let us all know what you think!


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

*Relay Wiring*

So here is the Relay wiring circuit.
It can be seen that the switch is eliminated and so is the failure risk.
@ 3 A that is considerable!


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

I don't really understand what failure using a relay would avoid? You still need a switch to operate the relay, so that still exists as a point of failure, in addition to the relay itself. 

If you're having issues with switches burning out due to their carrying high current loads, it would make more sense to go with a driver (like the Taskled ones) that are operated by momentary switches that carry negligible current. Obviously, the mom switch and driver are still potential failure points, but the first would be purely mechanical (and therefore less likely) and the latter is considerably less likely than with cheap Chinese drivers.

I'm not meaning to be argumentative, I'm just trying to understand the relative merits of your approach


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

It comes out of experience. Let me explain. I 've used several taskleds in projects , I still use them but NOT for biking anymore. They have failed me, they are complicated and sensitive. So have done switches and I’ve used big ones. Conditions are hard in the dirt, when you ride fast in the dark you need reliability, so I am eliminating complication and risk. The push button switch on the relay circuit uses that negligible current only to switch modes, all the rest of the time is out of the power circuit, so even if it fails the light stays ON.
This particular driver might be cheap but is very simple, it has good quality and by using 8x7135 chips you have redundancy!! It has configurable groups of modes and so far has never failed me.
The relay is fully proof from outside conditions, it has the ability to handle 4 times the current @ 7 times the voltage of required switching and as you can see on the diagram it doesn’t even need to switch to keep current flow. So even if there is a failure still your lights would keep ON. 
That is my point! Lights should be ON in the dark no matter what!
I believe it’s an idea worth considering in any design, and there are a lot of nice builds all over this forum that could see an advantage from it!
Wouldn’t you agree?


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

manokaiser

I really don't know anything about electronics - but I am eager to learn, so please excuse me if I ask a silly question!

If I get that relay wiring circuit right, then the "middle line" of the relay (whatever it is called) is tipped down, when the switch (button) is open and it is up (or more horizontal on the drawing) when the switch is closed (down on the picture). As you are using a push button switch the switch and the relay will stay in those positions?
If so, then the hole current from the batteries will go through the switch until it it pressed again to switch modes! Would it not be safer to use a clicky switch button (normally open - do get these on dealextreme?) because they would only very shortly see any electricity while switching?

I am surprised to hear of failures of the taskled drivers. I have only built one light with a H6flex and had never any problems.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

The Relay Power circuit has 3 contacts one Common (Middle), one Normally Open (Top) and one Normally Closed (Bottom). It is has a spring that keeps Common connected to the NC contact at the bottom. It also has the 2 coil contacts that control the switching. Those 2 parts of the Relay (Power & Coil circuits) are electricaly completely isolated, thus they can be powered by the same source. The Push button feeds a small current (Coil Power = 360 mW, @ 3.7V thats 0.1A) momentaryly only when a mode change is required pulling the Common of the Power circuit to the Top NO position (not connected), effectively braking the Power circuit. That's the way this Driver changes through it's modes. Then the push button is released and the Relay power circuit returns to the NC position which feeds current back to the Led. 
The push button swich is a momentary NO one. I am not sure about your question though. It Closes the Coil circuit while it is pressed, then springs back to Open. That's the reverse of what the Power circuit is configured to do. I hope you get the basic idea, then we can talk other configurations also. For example the Top contact could also be used to power another Driver to provide redundancy or other Beam setups.


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## mrradlos (Sep 3, 2010)

:yesnod: AHH! Now I understand! I didn't get that these two circuits (Power -Driver-LED and Coil-Button) are isolated and therefore can be run with different voltage and current (as both are fed by the battery here it will be the same voltage ca. 3.7 V).
I also thought you would use a on-off kind of button :madman:

Thank you very much for your explanation - it was really worth showing everybody on the (mtb-r) world what a ignorant I am :blush: I learnd something again :thumbsup:

PS: manokaiser - Looks like you have to build your light - so we will see some photos of this relay-build soon!


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

manokaiser said:


> It comes out of experience. Let me explain. I 've used several taskleds in projects , I still use them but NOT for biking anymore. They have failed me, they are complicated and sensitive. So have done switches and I've used big ones. Conditions are hard in the dirt, when you ride fast in the dark you need reliability, so I am eliminating complication and risk. The push button switch on the relay circuit uses that negligible current only to switch modes, all the rest of the time is out of the power circuit, so even if it fails the light stays ON.
> This particular driver might be cheap but is very simple, it has good quality and by using 8x7135 chips you have redundancy!! It has configurable groups of modes and so far has never failed me.
> The relay is fully proof from outside conditions, it has the ability to handle 4 times the current @ 7 times the voltage of required switching and as you can see on the diagram it doesn't even need to switch to keep current flow. So even if there is a failure still your lights would keep ON.
> That is my point! Lights should be ON in the dark no matter what!
> ...


fair enough, everyone has different experiences and views. I would have thought for simplicities sake and the ultimate reliability a direct drive, no driver, no switch single LED light would be better? I can't remember who makes them, hahnmc, odtexas or someone, but they seemed to like them.

out of curiousity, what happened to the taskled drivers you had and which ones?


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

mattthemuppet said:


> fair enough, everyone has different experiences and views. I would have thought for simplicities sake and the ultimate reliability a direct drive, no driver, no switch single LED light would be better? I can't remember who makes them, hahnmc, odtexas or someone, but they seemed to like them.
> 
> out of curiousity, what happened to the taskled drivers you had and which ones?


I've used and keep using BFlex and B2Flex. The first ones I had troubles with the coils of the board sometime soon after I put them on use, they wouldn't function properly which led to all sorts of misbehavior. The second had some issues with the remote switch, something like ghost shifting modes and that was not a switch failure, double checked. Additionally I had issues with multiple cell configurations and the protection circuits they needed. So I dropped this idea for biking use troublesome. I still use them for indoor lightning though and like them a lot for packing so many features.
Now about direct driving I'd say not the best option. Efficiency and output stability suffer a lot.
I ended up dropping multiple cells and complex drivers for the sake of reliability. 
Those little AMC 7135 chips appeared to fill the gaps for me. 
Check them out here: http://www.micro-bridge.com/data/ADD/AMC7135.pdf
They are simple little units, they can be paralleled at wish, they are protected internally and their low cost comes as a bonus! And by using 3, 4 or 8 of them you have redundancy. 
As a system administrator all these features are of high priority to me in any case&#8230;


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

Thank you all for supporting my design, particularly Zemike for rewarding it! Most parts are already available and the rest are on the way... As soon as everything arrives I will post here the complete process with details and photos!


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## mtroy (Jun 10, 2005)

manokaiser said:


> Thank you all for supporting my design, particularly Zemike for rewarding it! Most parts are already available and the rest are on the way... As soon as everything arrives I will post here the complete process with details and photos!


Where are you mounting that relay? That fits into the EZ2LED housing or?


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

manokaiser said:


> Thank you all for supporting my design, particularly Zemike for rewarding it! Most parts are already available and the rest are on the way... As soon as everything arrives I will post here the complete process with details and photos!


looking forward to seeing it 

thanks to Zemike as well. I'm waiting to hear back from a friend that he has the funds, then I'll be ordering the bits. Some of them will be coming from China, so it'll be several weeks before a build thread goes up, which'll be kind of nice as I'm a bit burnt out building lights!


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

> Where are you mounting that relay? That fits into the EZ2LED housing or?


Since there is not enough space in the housing I plan to build it in the battery pack, together with a charging port. I 'll settle with final plan as soon as I receive the Easy2Led housings as I make thoughts of adding a second driver output and a USB port too. As far as I know housings should be on their way already so it wont take long to start the build


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## bigdagma (May 29, 2011)

The thread is a little hard to follow for a novice, namely me. I can not see who won the competition nor do I see the winning design ? Just courious, been watching for about 2 months.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

*mattthemuppet *and *me* are the lucky winners  , results are @ the Poll link
Expect to see my design build pretty soon, I am still waiting for some of the parts.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

*Parts arrived, build starts!*

Almost all parts arrived, at least the most critical for the build, so time to get things done!
I'll keep you posted though this would be my first "instructable" 
The enclosure looks so nice! I am very happy with it.
I have decide to add this nice little Charger for it's versatility and flexibility!

One question though, should I post everything here or should I start a new post and just link it?


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## baker (Jan 6, 2004)

Interesting solar charger. Throw a rectifier on the front and hook it up to a dynohub... hmm


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

baker said:


> Interesting solar charger. Throw a rectifier on the front and hook it up to a dynohub... hmm


There is another option as well for your case, cheaper too!
I would add a ~6.5V Zener Diode to the input just to keep the charger in a safe margin. Absolute max input voltage is 7V.


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## mattthemuppet (Jul 16, 2004)

neat charger idea. Are you going to add it to the battery pack, the power supply or have it as a standalone unit. USB charging would be pretty cool though.

I'd start a new thread and link it to this one - greater visibility for your project but will all the background info on here. Looking forward to it


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## zemike (Sep 3, 2007)

manokaiser said:


> One question though, should I post everything here or should I start a new post and just link it?


I think you should start a new thread and link this to the new thread.


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

> neat charger idea. Are you going to add it to the battery pack, the power supply or have it as a standalone unit. USB charging would be pretty cool though.


Could be easily build in the battery pack but I'd rather keep it standalone as I've got several single cell packs on duty and it could serve them all as well. It will definitely find it's place in my saddle bag


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## manokaiser (Jun 30, 2008)

Hi All!
I have a working unit now and I've started a new post with the results.


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