# 200mm crank ?s 38inch inseam am I really a candidate



## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I am looking at ordering some 200 mm cranks for a few reasons,do the people with a real long inseam like them and what are the advantages to disadvantages? I am more than likely going to end up building a custom framed bike and would like to know if you transfer them from one bike to another because they are a keeper for you and what would be the best style bottom bracket.

My feet ride at least a half inch off the side of my pedals because my cranks and crank bottom bracket is to narrow. I need to figure a fix for this as well.

I am looking at getting 200mm cranks and then running a 62 tooth ring up front so I can get off of the 11 tooth sprocket in the back and ride in the 13 n 14 tooth range as.I am losing power because of the tight chain circle and I am tired of replacing a 11 tooth sprocket every month.

Any help would be great, thanks alot.


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## Guyechka (Jul 19, 2005)

If you're going custom, then there are plenty of options for the bottom bracket. You're probably at 73mm wide now, but you can go up around 100mm. I don't know if you searched around for one, but there are some sites (Sheldon Brown among others) that talk about how long cranks need to be for different inseams. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I can barely get away with 175mm, but I have been thinking of trying to find some longer ones.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Thanks for the reply,

I am a real hard fit, I talked to a builder today and he said I was a real rare build that would be hard to fit and a custom frame might be necessary.

With my leg length I should be at least 6 foot 8 or so but I am only 6 foot 4 so this crazy bike build is a real thing.

I want one bike to do all.


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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

*You're not that difficult*

I've got the same inseam as you. I'm an inch taller too at 6'5". There are more than a few manufacturers out there offering up equipment for us big fellas that fit well. I did build myself a custom frame though, but only because I wanted a long enough head tube, which is the chief area that the mass manufacturers neglect in the 26er world. Most mass produced 29ers are perfectly fine in the head tube department.










'07 XL Salsa El Mariachi The TT length is 25 inches. The ST length is just under 24" There is 8 1/2 inches of post showing










My custom 26er. Since this photo was taken I lowered the bars by more than an inch, removed a spacer, and switched to a 0* 110mm stem from the 6* 100mm in the photo.
For a really tall guy, it is a good feeling to be able to lower things to get the fit right. The TT is 25 1/2'', the ST is 24" and the head tube is 185 mm, and like the Salsa, 8 1/2 " of post is showing.

As for cranks, 180s should be fine for you. I've got 3 bikes and 2 have 175s and the custom orange 26er has 180s. The 180s do feel like I've got more leverage, but I've had zero problems with the 175s. I've been riding half seriously for more than 15 years without an issue.

You should stay away from extra wide BB shells and bottom brackets because you will totally screw up the bike's chain line. You need this to be between 47.5 and 50 mm measures from the middle ring to the centre-line of the frame. If your feet are too narrow either get pedal extensions or get cranks with a wider Q measurement.

Drew


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Thanks Dru , nice bikes.

I want to run 200s so It can get me lower to the ground because I raised the bike 1.5 inches with 29s.


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## dru (Sep 4, 2006)

I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all. 

I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires. 

A 29er and 26er frame use completely different #s (the length and various angles of the tubing) to work with the wheels they are designed for. Look at my 2 bikes; do the frames look the same? I can tell you that they fit me identically to within 1cm. Obviously they are constructed completely differently to arrive at the same fit. 

Get the correct wheels for your bike and the handling will improve night and day. 

A quick question; what are you running for a drivetrain? You seem to be talking some weird version of 62 x 11 single speed. A 62 tooth ring will be almost impossible to find btw. If you change how you are riding your bike you'll find that you'll stop breaking and wearing out components so fast. It is very likely that you won't tire so quickly either

My issue with 200mm cranks is the fact you'll encounter a lot of pedal strikes, and if you want the same ground clearance as the shorter cranks with respect to pedal strikes you'll end up with a higher bottom bracket height which will be only available as a custom frame. That bottom bracket height will in fact raise your centre of gravity any time your pedals are neutral and you are standing. The only way 200mm makes sense if if you are willing to put up with pedal strikes. Both my bikes have low BB heights and the handling bonus is worth the trade vs catching the pedals on rocks etc.

Drew


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## Surfdog93 (May 30, 2005)

6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

dru said:


> I'm under the impression you've built up some kind of frankenbike, judging by your other thread. If you've done that, by somehow running 29er wheels/tires on a 26er or hybrid frame, the end result will not work well at all.
> 
> I checked out what you've built up on your other thread. You are having problems because you've got the wrong wheels for that frame. You simply cannot make a 26er handle correctly running 29er rims and tires.
> 
> ...


 The bike handles great, but with the 26s it was more agile for sure but the wheels were to wimpy and started to collaspe so I made up some strong 29s. My bike riding style I believe is completly different from yours. Your bikes are awesome but look like a back ache to me. My bike is being built for straight up mashing and being lazy but it can haul ass as well if I can keep the weight down.

The handling is great but the wheelbase is short for a 29er and the way I have it set up it wanted to endow so 200 mm cranks should lower me an inch and get the ride height back to the proper area. This is the most comfortable bike I found for me to turn into a road bike fast cruiser you can jump and take off road. I do not get tired but I am adding weight with every mod I do and slowing the bike down but if you weigh over 300 who cares but also weight on the wheels is a no no and that is where I am having problems big time.These tubes I am running weigh a ton and spinning that extra mass that far out from the hub must really hurt performance. TUBE LESS possible? for me

I talked with one of the mechanics at a bike shop and asked him if there was a market for a fast road style bike you could jump and take off road without tearing it up and he said yes but I would have to build it because it was not made by anybody in complete form that he new of so I am building it. A Trek 4300 frame design is alot like a road bike and it is coming along well and I am happy.

The pedals will not strike the ground with 200 mm cranks because the bike is 1 and a 1/4 inches taller because of the 29s so the 200mm craks should get my body back to the right ride height. Like I said I would have gotten a Marlin 23" 29er but it did to me what your bikes do and I do not like that ride position so I bought a 4300 Trek. I am real happy once I solve a few issues and the endowing was a major one. I need to post pictures then you will under stand why the bikes wants to endow. A real couch seat up high for mashing and hard to get your weight back so the rear comes up in some conditions.

And by the way I got smoked by a road bike today so it is not as fast as I thought! :madman:


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Surfdog93 said:


> 6'8" and enjoy my 175's & 180's on stock 23" (XXL) 29ers Spec and Trek.
> Tons of debate on this site as to whether tall guys need long cranks.
> I ride hard and fast (relatively) 3-4 days / week average for the last year + and feel standard cranks are fine for me


Thanks for chimming in Surfer Dude


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I could use help on cranks before I buy a set and maybe waste my money, 200s will make my knees come up more so if I lower the seat a inch then get 1 inch longer cranks that means my knees will come up 2 inches more is this a problem for people who own them? Thanks!


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## Adim_X (Mar 3, 2010)

How exactly is a longer crank going to keep you from doing an endo? It will only change your center of gravity when you are on the down stroke. I don't understand you aren't having serious toe overlap issues with the front wheel. The crank length at 200 would make this potential scenario even worse. Please post a pic of you bike.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

the benefits of long cranks for people with longer legs it that it can help them have a more even cadence. if you feel like you are spinning tiny circles with your cranks now as it is then you could be a candidate. However they can also decrease your spin as they are in essence increasing the torque of your motor and reducing the RPMs.

Longer cranks are oft times used by singlespeeders to pick up a little more grunt in exchange for a little less spin at the top end. I use 180mm cranks on a single speed and 175mm on my other and really don't notice a difference.

As mentioned above, the main difference when standing is that your legs will bend more, your seat will have to be a little lower which might lower your COG a bit, if you lower your seat by an inch, which may be extreme you might find yourself lowering only 3/4" or less depends on your knee geometry.

If you want to go with wider Q-factor cranks (that is the width of the BB) look at the Mr, whirly cranks from Surly (Mr. Whirly Crank | Parts | Surly Bikes) and run a wider square taper BB from phil wood.

All this really seems like expensive maneuvering to get around your desired use and fit of your bike. I really feel like if you just got a large or xl 29er frame and swapped over your parts you would be so much happier. You could run larger tires which would change your gear ratio keeping off your cassette bottom as much. There has to be deals this time of year that would get you a frame and fork for what you are going to spend on a pair of 200mm cranks and a phil bottom bracket alone.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.

I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.

I will swap all parts over when I find a frame I like but feel 200mm could in theory be for me .I just want input from those who have used them before I buy. It will lower me to the ride height I had when it was a 26er because I will be able to lower the seat 1 inch. I am happy with my build path and all my changes have been corrrect so far.I need a 29er fork that is not tall? all help is appreciated and like I said and you said at my weight the bike needs to be custom anyway so all this stuff just transfers over but with a 29er frame and 200mm cranks it may strike the ground from lack of clearence so my Trek frame may just work for my benefit because the BB is now 1 to 1 and a half inches higher, 

There was really no cheaper way of doing this from my point of view. Any other option unless I found what I wanted used would have been more money.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

Realslowww said:


> Thanks that was the info I was looking for,I can get new 200mm cranks for 250.
> 
> I think I may be a candidate for them because my legs like to turn slow and run a tall gear. I have no problem getting a 29 frame but must find one I like in comfort. I will probably be running narrower tires because I am leaning more for road speed but I will have to judge the line between offroad and road as far as overall handling goes.
> 
> ...


For the fork assuming you mean a rigid one you can go with a 26er fork like the Surly Instigator or a Karate monkey one also from surly. Salsa offers a 29er fork with a 15mm thru axle which might be up your alley as well. Would be stiffer but depends if your hubs are convertible.

You obviously understand the relationship between crank length and cornering. With 200's it will be tight, especially if you use platforms.

As you mentioned in the original post if you do go to a new frame in the future the 200 cranks could be a problem especially considering your proclivity for high speed fast reacting bike riding. Going with a taller fork to raise the BB would slow the steering.

if you are serious about getting a custom you might also want to search out the thread on Triton Bikes. Custom Ti frames for a reasonable price out of Russia. They build up some weird stuff, like polo bikes which look like they would be right up your alley, stout, tall, burly and fast.


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## blasdelf (Feb 26, 2011)

Getting a Rohloff will solve your problem of eating up drivetrains and gears never being big enough. You can then use wide and long Profile BMX cranks without any chainline issues.

I can't post links yet, but google around for Chalo Colina, his custom Bohemian mountain bike, and his posts on rec.bicycles.tech


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

thanks you all


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

Can you post a pic of your bike?

I run 180s on everything now, my SS, my cross bike, my AM ripper, and my upcoming 29er rigid.

175s feel really funny and the 170s back when I had a fixed gear felt like tip-toeing, 175s feel like walking up short stairs, and 180s feel much more natural.

200mm cranks will not rid you of the endo feeling that you talk about. For the price of 200mm cranks, you could get a decent 29er frame and fork. You talk about cushion and comfort, measure your bike and compare it to available frames. Cockpit geometry is different from 29er and 26er frames but wheelbase, frame geometry, rake/trail, chainstay length etc are all drastically different.


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## bigtymerider (Oct 4, 2008)

*$250*

I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

Track down that Zinn guy, he has written books and built bikes, esp for the tall people.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

bigtymerider said:


> I run 215's on my Mountain Bike and 210's on my road bike. Both bikes were built to accommodate the lengths. Are the cranks new? Please let me know were you found these if they are new. I run High Sierras and Zinn's integrated cranks.


I think he was maybe mentioning this group order on the Serotta forum :
Serotta Competition Bicycle Forums - Anyone interested in 200mm cranks?

I bought one of them, it's going on my new 36er bike, still being built, so no feedback yet.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Yaa I believe that is what they were. very reasonably priced. Like 250.I priced Zinn stuff but to high for me especially when you live in a college town and all the bikes get stolen here., if you do not lock them here they are gone in less than 60 seconds. I have had 2 MT bikes stolen like that right from under my nose!


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## CaveGiant (Aug 21, 2007)

I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.

When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.

I did not notice the reduction in length, I did notice the increase in flex from going from a nice CNC machined RF Atlas to a more basic tech Deore.

There custom cranks all seem to be simple, and my money would put them at flexible.
If Shimano cannot make a crank stiff with double the CSA of crank, I doubt a small custom builder can.

To me stiffness is more important that length and I am taller than you.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

I have to agree on custom cranks for mountain bike.
I'll use my 200mm on a cross bike custom built (36er)
Maybe it's just me, but it's like clipless pedals, not for mountain biking (I crash too often for being clipped-on!)


200mm cranks and clipeless shoes will be for the cross bike, on the road and gravel roads only.



CaveGiant said:


> I am not sold on custom cranks for mtb.
> 
> When my cranks failed (180mm), I borrowed my wife's 165.
> 
> ...


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.

It would have worked perfect with my setup fpor clearance, the guy who was selling the 200mm sells and makes custom tandems and races them and he told me they had no complaints on the cranks being flimsy? I believe he told me they malke them for Zinn?


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

Realslowww said:


> Yaa they probably are more hype than anything,the reason I wanted to try em is because they are supposed to work good if you like to stand up and mash in a tall gear. I would like to run my 29er setup with 50 11 gearing and when a grade came up I would just stand up and mash to build my leg strength. I was reading they are good for that.


No way in hell you're climbing anything running 50/11 gears and you're not going to be building leg strength, you're going to be blowing out your knees, hips, and ankles. And good luck doing any stair drops or other urban riding that you talk about with that big of a chainring, you'll just clip your big ring and stall out trying to go over any curbs or stairs.

Completely unquantifiable but when I made the switch from 175s to 180s, I felt like I was running a few more teeth in the back regarding ease of climbing. It was also much harder to spin high cadences at first, mimicking that feeling of a small gear ratio, but eventually I got over that.


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## Surfdog93 (May 30, 2005)

'Been riding my Superfly Elite 100 (full suspension) regularly now on a narrow trail that has a lot of 3-4" diameter roots and a lot of tight turns .....even though my rhythm and timing have become very good, I still get some hard pedal strikes/skims and this is with the stock 175mm cranks and smallish spd clipless pedals.
I'm glad the 175's work for me, anything much longer and I would be in trouble......at least on this trail


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## mikhalit (Aug 17, 2011)

My inseam measures 37.4 inches/ 95 cms (and i am 6'6" tall). I got JK 205mm cranks via Zinn's shop, and oh boy, they do make a difference. Feels very natural, and going back to 175mm is like being on a kids bike, seriously.

Note that i am riding mostly on pavement/gravel. My acceleration and mashing while standing have improved greatly. Seriously, my lowest gear is about two steps higher now and 8sp Alfine hub is quite enough right now. I started to think i'd like the cranks to be even a bit longer but that will create me more problems with the bike fit. 

I didn't have the money for a custom build so my solution was different. My main concern was the clearance between pedals and ground. I like pedaling in turns and normal bike geo wouldn't allow that with such long cranks. I picked a frame with HT/ST angles 71/72 degrees. Instead of a stock fork (ca 410mm i think) I've installed Salsa Fargo v.1 fork which is 442mm high with 55mm rake. That made the frame a bit more road oriented, as the angles have increased by 1 degree roughly. Most importantly that gave me some extra clearance, i got about 9 cms under my pedals now. And I am super happy with the overall bike fit. There were some issues with the heel clearance, but I managed to solve them.

Overall those long cranks were one of the best bike investments I've made regarding the bike fit.

I am not sure how far are the pedals from each other, but i have no issues with that. I could measure it though if anyone is interested. BB is 73mm ISIS.

Just wondering, could it be that longer cranks are a bit wider too?

PS. there is one more obvious advantage of long cranks for tall people. They allow me to sit 3cm lower than with standard cranks, giving more frame and handlebar choices. I can finally ride drop bars (Salsa Woodchipper) in the drops for sufficiently long time!


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

mikhalit said:


> Instead of a stock fork (ca 410mm i think) I've installed Salsa Fargo v.1 fork which is 442mm high with 55mm rake. That made the frame a bit more road oriented, as the angles have increased by 1 degree roughly. Most importantly that gave me some extra clearance, i got about 9 cms under my pedals now. And I am super happy with the overall bike fit. There were some issues with the heel clearance, but I managed to solve them.


Pictures please!


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## mikhalit (Aug 17, 2011)

davidfrench said:


> Pictures please!


will post in few days when get back home from vacations


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Thankyou very much for the help,you gave me much needed information.:thumbsup:


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## sydneyV (Nov 10, 2011)

Wondering about heel Strike on Chain stays with 200mm cranks? Just a thought? I know I've had an issue with 180mm on one frame, my feet are 12s so not huge, just got really annoying after a while... I guess if you go a custom frame it should be fine


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## blasdelf (Feb 26, 2011)

On my 29er with 200mm cranks I can hit the dropouts with my heels if I twist em that way (even with the inside float limited out as much as possible on Frogs), but actually riding along they've never collided.


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## mikhalit (Aug 17, 2011)

davidfrench said:


> Pictures please!


Here are the pics, bike is set as a kids hauler and for long touring rides:

1. This is 600mm tall Poison Chinin IGH cromo frame, ETT is 615mm. The fork is Salsa Fargo with 442mm axle-to-crown.

2. The cranks are Joseph Kuosac Mtb 205mm. Couldn't measure the exact pedal height, but for the road/gravel it's absolutely enough. Not much chance for a singletrack ride here in Northern Germany, can't comment if the clearance is adequate for some techy trails.

The front will take up to 2.3" wide rubber and the rear at least 1.9" if not wider. It should be a fine monstercross machine, i am planning to do some bikepacking with it later.


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## mikhalit (Aug 17, 2011)

And this is manufacturers photo, to show how this frame would look like with the original fork (same frame but in smaller size and derailleur version)


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

nice set-up!


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## patineto (Oct 28, 2005)

The old I.R.D. company (Interlock Racing Designs, in the 80') just to make some "Hill climping" bikes with really long cranks (220mm) and super tall bottom brackets, maybe make ask around on the Vintage forum so you can see some pictures and how "funny" do they look


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Thanks for all the help,I build 26 frames with 29s on them for road use. The bikes I build are a road bike comfort bike you can beat on like a mountain bike.

Are you ever like going down the road and just see a shortcut or something you want to hit off to the side of the road ? but cannot because you are on a flimsy bike ?,well I am building a 23 inch Rock Hopper 26er frame with 29s and 200mm cranks.


For mainly road going I prefer 26 frames to 29er for some reason and with 200 mm cranks it will solve the clearance problem if you use a 26er frame.. Thanks for all replies.


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

You probably need something like this:
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/i-beg-you-more-monstercross-355649-66.html#post9110361

What you're talking about building is a flat-bar monstercross bike. You cant fit 29er tires into a 26er frame, there just isnt clearance for the tall tires. You might be able to fit a 700x40 or 700x45 but those are closer to 28", not a true 29er and closer to a cyclocross tire than anything 29er.

Have you looked at 650B bikes? Probably a lot easier and closer to what you want to do. Bigger tires than 26" but you can still fit fat tires onto a 26" frame with 650B. If you bump up all the way to a 700C rim you're really limited to skinny cross tires.

Honestly, what it really sounds like you need is a fixed gear freestyle bike with an internal gear hub, then you'll have the high bottom bracket for longer cranks, a stout frame, clearance for fat 700s. Just most of them only come fixed and without braze-ons so you'd have to run full length housing and an internal geared hub in the back and maybe a Hammerschmidt or FSA metropolis crank up front (probably the HS due to your penchant for hucking).


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I ad a trek 4300 set up with 1.9 XR1s and it worked fine,thhe bigger framed 26ers will handle 29s to a point. I did not look at a monster cross bike because people told me a good mountain bike frame was tougher? For me what I do works fine. I hhhave to buils custom wheels anyway because of my weight so the most iportant thing for me is a good solid frame I like for comfort. The Trek 4300 was better than the RH in that area for me and looked tougher in build.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I brought this tread from the dead back, anybody else running 200 mm? I changed from 175 to 180 and put a better quality crank in my bike and what a difference, on hills where I used to have to stand or downshift to keep power up evenly I can now just sit and turn the power up and motor out.

200 mm is such a big jump over 180 maybe 190 would be better. Any input from people who have played around with crank length would be great. In theory if you can spin the bigger circle more efficiently you will gain power through torque?

Thanks for any help.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

I have a 39" inseam and I run 220mm (I should be on 210mm) and run a 1x10 with a 11-36 cassette.
The result is that I climb way better than any other 700c bike I had (with 180mm cranks) or a loaned bike with 200mm (29er full suspension).
But my bike is fully rigid, Ti and 36er. I'm also 6'6".....


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks. 
I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back. 
On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama. 

In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

langen said:


> I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks.
> I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back.
> On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama.
> 
> In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!


 Thats what I thought, mainly the length of your femur is more important. I should be about 6 foot 8 but am only 6 foot 5 because I am short torso.

There is a crank in 200mm and 220 for only 130 $.

I was just shocked at how much faster I was changing my crank out.


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

Realslowww said:


> There is a crank in 200mm and 220 for only 130 $.


Details, please! Do you have a link?


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

langen said:


> Details, please! Do you have a link?


I cant even get if Realslowww is a troll account. He wont post pictures of his bike and spews a lot of nonsense everywhere he goes.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

GTscoob said:


> I cant even get if Realslowww is a troll account. He wont post pictures of his bike and spews a lot of nonsense everywhere he goes.


 Got to have pictures just like the little girls on show and tell day.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

langen said:


> Details, please! Do you have a link?


 IRD is the company who has them, they are 110 BDC, one place claims to sell them for 128$ Universal Cycles but they seem to only be in stock about 1/2 the time.

You can Google it.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

At 42" inseam you definitely needs 220mm cranks. Well at 6'9" you also need a 36er bike (have you looked at my DirtySixer?) !
I have 220mm on my 36er that are from Joe Kuosac with ISIS type spindle. I think they are better than the square taper of the IRD for the abuse I throw at them. But square taper will work fine if used on road/gravel and no big jumps.
IRD said somewhere that they even did (back in the days, but when?) some 225mm cranks. I bet custom and pricey.
I have some 200mm square taper from daVinci that are still waiting for the right bike...



langen said:


> I'm 6'9", 42" inseam. I have 1 rigid HT and 1 FS trailbike, both 29ers with 190mm cranks.
> I've thought about getting longer cranks for the HT, but availability and price hold me back.
> On the FS I think longer cranks would just result in pedal strike-o-rama.
> 
> In my opinion, longer inseam => longer cranks!


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## GTscoob (Apr 27, 2009)

Realslowww said:


> Got to have pictures just like the little girls on show and tell day.


You've done so much talking about your crazy hybrids but you've never once posted pics.


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

He climbs with 50-11 gearing, he doesn't need pictures


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## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

here is a link to the IRD cranks Universal Cycles -- Interloc Super Long Cranks

just note that with 110bcd the smallest ring you can run is a 34t... might work out for a 1x10 on a 11-36 cassette... or could even go with a 11-42 with this

but no matter what you are stuck with a square taper crank


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## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

davidfrench said:


> I have some 200mm square taper from daVinci that are still waiting for the right bike...


have you used the daVinci's at all?... I've been thinking about 200mm cranks on my road bike... I'm a fatty and need a the granny of the triple to climb (at least I have on my road and MTB 175mm cranks)... I also like the fact that I can get away with a narrower cassette with a triple... the high sierra/zinn cranks look stronger but they're also $100+ more... so figured i'd ask ...


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I can afford Davinci , I cannot afford Zinn.


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## BigRingGrinder (Jan 9, 2013)

GTscoob said:


> I cant even get if Realslowww is a troll account. He wont post pictures of his bike and spews a lot of nonsense everywhere he goes.


For his sake, i hope he is trolling. Cant say i have ever come across a more maniacal stubborn refusal to acknowledge common sense.

If not a troll? I am surprised he has the cognitive ability to string enough words together to create his posts. I picture him on computer forums asking if a stronger keyboard is available since he breaks a keyboard once a month typing "like a man".


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

Nope I haven't put the daVinci 200mm cranks on any bike yet.
After the 36er, I had an idea of a big touring bike based on rabbit holes and knard with an IGH but it's not happening yet.
I can't even remember how much I paid for these cranks!


donalson said:


> have you used the daVinci's at all?... I've been thinking about 200mm cranks on my road bike... I'm a fatty and need a the granny of the triple to climb (at least I have on my road and MTB 175mm cranks)... I also like the fact that I can get away with a narrower cassette with a triple... the high sierra/zinn cranks look stronger but they're also $100+ more... so figured i'd ask ...


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

BigRingGrinder said:


> For his sake, i hope he is trolling. Cant say i have ever come across a more maniacal stubborn refusal to acknowledge common sense.
> 
> If not a troll? I am surprised he has the cognitive ability to string enough words together to create his posts. I picture him on computer forums asking if a stronger keyboard is available since he breaks a keyboard once a month typing "like a man".


 Bunch of idiots who cannot see outside the box that has been nicely prepared for them.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

davidfrench said:


> Nope I haven't put the daVinci 200mm cranks on any bike yet.
> After the 36er, I had an idea of a big touring bike based on rabbit holes and knard with an IGH but it's not happening yet.
> I can't even remember how much I paid for these cranks!


 They were selling them for 229, that is why I found these other cranks with help from this site. Although I read where the Davinci may be made better?


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## BigRingGrinder (Jan 9, 2013)

Realslowww said:


> Bunch of idiots who cannot see outside the box that has been nicely prepared for them.


Im not the one who snaps a chain every other month. Im not the one trying to climb hills in a 52-11 gear ratio at 5mph. Im not the one trying to find longer cranks for less money to apply more torque to parts you complain break too easily. Im not the one who hurt my chest curling. Im not the one who claims to snap equipment cables in the gym. Im not the one COMPLETELY ignoring every bit of advice given to him.

You got me, im an idiot stuck in a box.


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

BigRingGrinder said:


> Im not the one who snaps a chain every other month. Im not the one trying to climb hills in a 52-11 gear ratio at 5mph. Im not the one trying to find longer cranks for less money to apply more torque to parts you complain break too easily. Im not the one who hurt my chest curling. Im not the one who claims to snap equipment cables in the gym. Im not the one COMPLETELY ignoring every bit of advice given to him.
> 
> You got me, im an idiot stuck in a box.


Lol....again. I read the other thread you're referring to, realslow you really need to learn to take the advice of people who know what they're talking about.

Also, mtbr must have the friendliest members of any forum ever. In any other forum I've ever been on, he woulda been absolutely crucified for his ridiculous statements here and on the other thread


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

BigRingGrinder said:


> Im not the one who snaps a chain every other month. Im not the one trying to climb hills in a 52-11 gear ratio at 5mph. Im not the one trying to find longer cranks for less money to apply more torque to parts you complain break too easily. Im not the one who hurt my chest curling. Im not the one who claims to snap equipment cables in the gym. Im not the one COMPLETELY ignoring every bit of advice given to him.
> 
> You got me, im an idiot stuck in a box.


 I can't help it if you are a chick.


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## BigRingGrinder (Jan 9, 2013)

OH SNAP! You dropped the chick bomb on me. My fragile ego is bruised! I may cry! I... I...

HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA!

Cmon man. You can do better than that. Step up your game or i may just return fire with a timely....

"I know you are but what am i?"


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

8iking VIIking said:


> Lol....again. I read the other thread you're referring to, realslow you really need to learn to take the advice of people who know what they're talking about.
> 
> Also, mtbr must have the friendliest members of any forum ever. In any other forum I've ever been on, he woulda been absolutely crucified for his ridiculous statements here and on the other thread


 Dude I get crucified all the time, mountain bikes are girly **** after what I came off of.

They are finally attempting to make them better for people who are used to running over obstacles at a higher rate than 20 MPH.

The lesson I have learned is I need to change my chain and sprockets out regularly so I do not bust the stuff and run quality cranks.

I am already finding how to use my 53 11 gearing and get more MPH out of it. I ride mostly road and some light trail, my cadence is getting on target finally but most of my problem was the cheap cranks. The flexing of the cranks was throwing me out of sync.

I will admit the pros blow me away on what they can do on a bicycle but other than that they take a major back seat to a modern Moto X motorcycle.

I still love it though.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

Look. You need to stop with the willy-waving and the comparisons with moto cross bikes. That's like telling a Tour de France winner that your Ducati is better than his bike. Utterly and completely NOT relevant.

You are at the edge of what is made in the bike world. You are taller and heavier than most people on the planet. As there are so few of 'us', almost nothing is made specifically for 'us' because there isn't enough profit in such small numbers.

Regardless, most people don't have 1/10th of your woes in a cycling lifetime. I'm 6'7" and 250lbs and have ridden bikes offroad for well over 20 years. I have never had any of your problems and don't know anyone else who has. You cause your problems. Stp talking about motorbikes, start understanding bikes and sort your technique.


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## BigRingGrinder (Jan 9, 2013)

I give you credit for trying, this guy is NOT going to listen to reason.

His amplifier goes to 11, its better.


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## Glide the Clyde (Nov 12, 2009)

I'd love to see a pic of this freak show bike. Are there circus biking Internet forums?


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

53-11 gearing is for little girls, you better step up and get a 55t front ring.


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## BigRingGrinder (Jan 9, 2013)

Unless he is a pansy ass little girl, he should be using a front ring like THIS....


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## 8iking VIIking (Dec 20, 2012)

BigRingGrinder said:


> Unless he is a pansy ass little girl, he should be using a front ring like THIS....


Look at those puny legs tho, realslow puts down sooooo much more TORQUE!!


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

8iking VIIking said:


> 53-11 gearing is for little girls, you better step up and get a 55t front ring.


 Actually I think you may be right 55 12 rather than 53 11

Hey guy's I am finally getting it sorted out, FL sucks compared to some places for riding. I live in a college town. I like to ride like 20 to 30 MPH because I am used to going 80 or 90 off road at times on my CR 500 so I make it as fast as possible and throw in some road off road obstacles.

This town is set up for bicycles, I custom made this bike because nobody sold what I wanted and it works better than anything I could have boughten off the floor. The way I have it set up I can go 30 and skip curbs and do light jumps at that speed in comfort and just cruise.

It turned out great but I did not realize if you have real strong legs you need a good stiff crank or you loose some good power. Change the chain every month or 2 and I am real happy now.

The advise I was getting for me was incorrect, the crank was the real culprit. I can select and find the right gear now to get my cadence correct and I no longer have to stand as much to apply power.

Before it was like driving a car and the clutch is slipping and you cannot figure out what gear to put it in because all the power is being wasted.

Now I need a good fork and may try longer cranks then probably put a 650 rear wheel with bigger tires all the way around but my stock fork will not allow bigger tires than 40CM.

I want to start hitting more trail obstacles. They really should build a heavy duty comfort cruiser do it all obstacle bike all in one. No 29 I saw or 26 is like this thing and I am real happy how it turned out, I wish I would have known I needed real cranks 2 years ago. The whole bike would creek when I road even with a new BB and I did not realize I was bending the cheap cranks.


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

To everone with the long IRD cranks mentioned above, with square taper BB: What BB spindle length do you use?

I just purchased a pair of 200mm cranks, but don't know what spindle length to get. BB width is 68mm. 

Thanks!


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

langen said:


> To everone with the long IRD cranks mentioned above, with square taper BB: What BB spindle length do you use?
> 
> I just purchased a pair of 200mm cranks, but don't know what spindle length to get. BB width is 68mm.
> 
> Thanks!


 Please tell us your results, I am real curious.


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

Realslowww said:


> Please tell us your results, I am real curious.


Which results? I hope I don't have to buy 4 different sizes to find the one that fits..


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

langen said:


> Which results? I hope I don't have to buy 4 different sizes to find the one that fits..


 I want to know if you have more forward thrust and how the cranks feel on your legs.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I have been just riding, my bike is working great with the 180mm cranks but I am still waiting to see if anybody has been using 200mm and give a good review, all my problems went away and I am happy, for whatever reason the stock cranks did not work at all so I am real curious about 200's still.

Happy Easter all.


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## lowestbarone (Nov 10, 2011)

langen said:


> To everone with the long IRD cranks mentioned above, with square taper BB: What BB spindle length do you use?
> 
> I just purchased a pair of 200mm cranks, but don't know what spindle length to get. BB width is 68mm.
> 
> Thanks!


I found that swapping my 110 for a 122.5 would give the same chain line, although I actually went for a 127 so I could run as a double plus a chain guard. 127 also gives plenty of extra clearance for the chainstays.


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

I also found that a 122,5 spindle gives a good chainline on the 200mm IRD cranks. 
Running 1x10 with the middle chainring only.


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Do you get better results driving with the 200's ?


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## langen (May 21, 2005)

I haven't done any tests as such, but the new cranks feel "right".
With a 42" inseam, they should..


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

I Am long legged but you are a definite Daddyo long legs.


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## lowestbarone (Nov 10, 2011)

Realslowww said:


> Do you get better results driving with the 200's ?


I can certainly notice a difference going up - climbs where I used to drop onto the inner I can now make on the middle chainring. Along the flats I would say that there is less of a noticeable difference - hard to tell.

Is it worth going to 200's? I would say yes if you do a lot of climbing and can afford the decreased ground clearance... although you do get an equivalent increase in bar height.

The IRD's are nicely polished but the casting is a bit rough in places. I also had to bend the chainring bolt tabs to get the rings to run flat. They're the cheapest way to try extra long cranks - if you already have chainrings to fit.


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## Freightlinerbob (Feb 4, 2014)

8iking VIIking said:


> He climbs with 50-11 gearing, he doesn't need pictures


LOL! That has the makings for a Chuck Norris joke. Or maybe the man from Dos XX.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Realslowww (May 17, 2011)

Freightlinerbob said:


> LOL! That has the makings for a Chuck Norris joke. Or maybe the man from Dos XX.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Thanks for all the help, all the problems went away after I went to high quality 180mm cranks. My stride got all straightend out and my speed went up and I spin more. The stock cranks were flexing and messing me up.

I need another bike for Mountain biking on the trail. I built this for a around town do it all beater and it is great but I need something in a 29 or 650 to take off road.

I should by the 200mm, they would work great on my 26 XXl with 29's and 40 CM tires. It turned out real good and worth building.


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## davidfrench (Jan 25, 2011)

For long legged riders over here: the DirtySixer campaign is about to end: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1743061580/dirtysixer-the-only-big-bike-for-tall-people-36-wh
Ask me any questions. Cheers


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