# Class I or II hitch for me?



## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

My brain is starting to hurt. I drive a 2006 Toyota Matrix XR and need to buy a hitch that will carry this tray type of bike rack;

http://www.hollywoodracks.com/hitch-racks/sportrider-hitch-rack.htm

Hollywood Racks is off for the holidays so I'm turning to the trusty MTBR boards for answers. :thumbsup:

With my two bikes I will be well under the 45lbs, per bike, that Hollywood Racks suggests not to exceed. My question is; With this rack and my two bikes, will I need a Class I or II hitch to hold it? I think the answer will be II because it will hold more tongue weight? There's about a $50 price difference between the Class I and II hitches........Thank you in advance for any information you can throw my way. Matt


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## cracksandracks.com (Oct 22, 2009)

when in doubt go bigger........always.
spend the extra dough and forget about it. you don't want to load up to the limit and be worried every time you get on a rougher road, or hit a pothole.


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## pimpbot (Dec 31, 2003)

*second that...*



cracksandracks.com said:


> when in doubt go bigger........always.
> spend the extra dough and forget about it. you don't want to load up to the limit and be worried every time you get on a rougher road, or hit a pothole.


do the biggest one your car allows. You can always get a shim to go from 2" to 1 1/4". My XPort rack actually came with it.


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## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

I had a feeling I should go bigger just to be safe, thank you both for your replies. :thumbsup:


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## rippling over canyons (Jun 11, 2004)

I have a Corolla and I think it only has a class 1 weight capacity. I mounted a Draw-Tite class 1 hitch on it. Classs 1's only support 1 1/4" hitches. Check out the link to see what's available for Matrices (sp).

http://www.drawtite.com/trailerhitches1.html


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## Grannylingus (Jul 23, 2009)

You have a tiny car. You are not going to hitch a trailer on it. Class II hitches weighs more which translates to more gas consumption. I say go for the Class I

here's a hitch that fits your matrix http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~24812.htm?vehicleid=2006201588


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

also say class 1 hitch. class 1 hitches are good enough for all the bikes you will install on it. 

i use a class 1 hitch with 1.25" receiver on my accord and i hit PLENTY of potholes with my rack and i'm fine!
dont waste your money on big heavy pieces of metal that u dont need


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Grannylingus said:


> You have a tiny car. You are not going to hitch a trailer on it. Class II hitches weighs more which translates to more gas consumption. I say go for the Class I
> 
> here's a hitch that fits your matrix http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~24812.htm?vehicleid=2006201588


Class II hitches do not weigh so much more that the additional mass will affect fuel consumption...


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## jmitchell13 (Nov 20, 2005)

If there is a class 2 option for your car get it. The weight difference between the two hitches is negligible. If in the future you need the class 2 to pull something heavier you have that option.


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## Grannylingus (Jul 23, 2009)

The guy owns a matrix, not an suv. I don't think the added weight of the class II hitch + the added weight of 2" racks is negligible. Those things are dang heavy.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

No point in a class 2. Useless for a matrix


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Grannylingus said:


> The guy owns a matrix, not an suv. I don't think the added weight of the class II hitch + the added weight of 2" racks is negligible. Those things are dang heavy.


It's still less than 1% of the total GVW. If that mattered a good BM for 4 occupants would affect the gas mileage.. and so would a couple bags of groceries.


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## wheelerfreak (Jul 3, 2007)

Geez, do you shave all your body hair, trim your nails and use an enema before you drive your car? If you're worried about the 5 or so pounds more that a class 2 weighs, you may want to just go to that extreme.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

But for a matrix a class 2 doesn't do anything more than a class 1 can. So it really is more weight for no reason


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## rippling over canyons (Jun 11, 2004)

A class 2 hitch _*will*_ provide more stability with it's 2" opening. However, I don't think the Matrix is class 2 rated; my Corolla isn't. As others have said: weight increase is negligible and should not be a determining factor.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

yea i could only find a class 1 hitch for my accord, probably the same for the matrix.


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## HarryCallahan (Nov 2, 2004)

beagledadi said:


> I had a feeling I should go bigger just to be safe, thank you both for your replies. :thumbsup:


I read through the whole thread, and that's the way I'd go as well. What I've read is that the 2" receivers and racks are much more rigid, and you have a much greater choice in racks. It doesn't matter if your car isn't supposed to tow Class II trailers, if the sole reason for the Class II hitch is a rack mount.


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

is there even a class 2 hitch for the matrix?

what about for a 2005 accord?


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2006_Toyota_Matrix.htm
i'm wrong, go for this class 2 hitch, it looks like its the only one available from etrailer, its from Curt, MFG. i have the same brand model and it installs pretty easily with 2 people. $140 free shipping when u add another $10 item.


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## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

I just got off the phone with a Hollywood Racks rep and he said the Sportrider 2 rack/bikes would be no problem installed on a Class I hitch. The hitch I will be installing onto the Matrix will be for the bike rack/bikes only, no towing, and it'll accept the 1 1/4 rack fine.

Thanks to all that responded :thumbsup:


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## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

It's on. Looks good, no wobbles what-so-ever and holds the bikes perfectly. Next thing to do is buy a locking hitch pin, then drill some holes in the rack to run some locking security cable for the bikes. No more taking the front tires on and off anymore, I'm happy with it.

Side note; I was getting 28mpg city/freeway mix with just the yakima roof rack, no bikes, on my 06 Matrix XR AT. My last mpg reading without any bike racks on the car was 33.4mpg!!! Wow! I'm interested to see what I'll get with this tray style rack........:thumbsup:


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## louisssss (Jun 24, 2009)

^^ that rack looks like the same design as my sportrack, i only paid $150 total for mine and it included an anti-rattle+locking hitch pin & also a lock to lock the bikes onto the bike rack. 

hope you didn't pay anything more because that rack doesn't look more secure nor is it of better design


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## jrm (Jan 12, 2004)

*One thing*

remember that the bike in the rack is wider then the car.


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## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

I guess it's the camera angle that makes the bike on the rack look wider than the car but it's not. Here's a pic from the back and front of the car. I'm loving the hitch/tray style rack. No more taking the front wheel on and off, why didn't I switch years ago :madman:


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## Eric Z (Sep 28, 2008)

looks good. the tray style racks are nice. i have the xport that looks exactly the same. thanks for following up on your decision and with pics!


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

Awesome, glad you like it and thanks for the info, I need to add a hitch rack to my car now that I have 4 bikes to haul out, not just on or two :thumbsup:


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

beagledadi said:


> My brain is starting to hurt. I drive a 2006 Toyota Matrix XR and need to buy a hitch that will carry this tray type of bike rack;
> 
> http://www.hollywoodracks.com/hitch-racks/sportrider-hitch-rack.htm
> 
> ...


How do you like your rack? Anything you dislike about it? I'm inquiring because I was looking into this rack.

Does the top 'hook' that holds the bike down rub on the bike at all?

Thanks in advanced


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## beagledadi (Jul 18, 2004)

I love it, I wish I would have made the switch from roof rack to hitch rack years ago. The Hollywood rack is adequate enough for me. I'm using a cable to lock "down" the top hook over the frame instead of routing it through the frame and tires (pictured). The rack may not be as "buff" as the T2 and others but I like it just the same. Post up some pics once you get it going :thumbsup: 

Matt


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## fivehoursfree (Oct 3, 2007)

I wouldn't lock up that way. 
1) Depending on the angle and length of the top tube, you could loosen the wheel wells, slide them both towards one direction. Depending on how far you can slide them, one of the wheel wells might slide off the end of the rack, then the bike just falls out of the hook.
2) You can unscrew the bolt that clamps the hook, pull the bolt out and the hook just falls off.

Also, as a PSA for those that own that rack, or the VERY similar Xport rack, don't let the pins hang on their wires when the arms are down, eventually they fall off.


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## moutainkiller (Feb 19, 2010)

Thanks


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## eakins (Mar 8, 2004)

rippling over canyons said:


> A class 2 hitch _*will*_ provide more stability with it's 2" opening. However, I don't think the Matrix is class 2 rated; my Corolla isn't. As others have said: weight increase is negligible and should not be a determining factor.


?

Where are you getting the idea that a class 2 hitch has a 2" receiver???

-Class 1 & 2 are 1 1/4". Class 1 also has tab restrictions to keep class 2 adapters from fitting. Class 2 is better built and weighs only slightly more.
-Class 3 & is 2"
-Class 5 is 2.5"
-Specialty heavy-duty 3" receiver

The Curt class 2 for the Matrix has an extra support triangle/gusset welded in to give it slightly more strength then than the Draw-tite/Hidden Hitch (they are the same company) class 1. They extra weight is maybe a few lbs if that and will have ZERO affect on MPG guys, but it welcome addition for a hitch that may at time see some hard weight shift and downward jolts of your bike leveraging after hitting bumps.

The class 1 is technically strong enough, but for a few $s more the better built class 2 is a no brainer (plus those class 1 adapter limitations). If you have a lower facia you will either need to remove or notch out or use the lower model designed for those xr/xrs models. Since ground clearance & thus scrapping is a high probability, i'd use the base (taller up) one and modify the car, plus use a 1 1/4" to 1/4" raising adapter or you will find your rack dragging when you climb inclines.

Also use a 1 1/4 stabilizer adapter to help reduce sway when you corner.
Even if your bike rack uses a threaded bolt (& if it does get a longer bolt and lock washer and bolt the other side too) a stabilizer will keep the your rear bike rack from swinging around.

Buy class 2 always when you have the option! If you buy a class 1, you then go find you can't use raising adapters and such and you just screwed yourself to save 2lbs on your cars weight.


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## metalMTB (Sep 15, 2005)

yakima requires a class II or better for their hitch mounted platform style racks. My car can only fit a class I hitch so I opted for a roof rack system. I'd definitely get a class II if they make them for your car. Much more secure.


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