# big problem pressing in bottom headset cup... SOS!... HELP!



## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

I just had a HARD time pressing in my bottom headset cup dry! I greased inside the headtube & the cup but bottom cup is only halfway in. It's VERY HARD TO TWIST/TIGHTEN the press. My only option now is to put a couple of old seatposts on each press-grip to attain more leverage. I'm hoping he sent me the correct size cup... hmm has to be correct because it went in halfway no problem. I even greased the threads on the press, which no one probably does. I saw a video of a mechanic doing this very same thing on a Trek using this very same press & it was "no-strength-needed" *whew* typing this was strenuous after that press ordeal. Please advise


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

DO NOT!!!! Do not use a cheater. Remove the bottom cup and make sure the bottom of the head tube has been machined deep enough for that particular headset cup.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> DO NOT!!!! Do not use a cheater. Remove the bottom cup and make sure the bottom of the head tube has been machined deep enough for that particular headset cup.


Thanks. According to the specs on the new headset cup, it is correct for my 1.5" headtube. I'm gonna knock out the bottom cup & measure compared to the old cup. I might re-install the old cup. It's "blacked-out"; looks better on the frame. Be back soon


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## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

Whew... I would knock that cup back out, clean everything, inspect and measure. I have put some headsets in that required a bit more umph than usual. I agree with DS 100%, DO NOt use a cheater bar, that is only asking for more trouble. Does it feel like it's bottomed out or just stuck?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

sodak said:


> Whew... I would knock that cup back out, clean everything, inspect and measure. I have put some headsets in that required a bit more umph than usual. I agree with DS 100%, DO NOt use a cheater bar, that is only asking for more trouble. Does it feel like it's bottomed out or just stuck?


Tyvm DJ & sodak. Basically the new bottom cup was banging/pressing into the factory taper or cup-stop inside the headtube, so 2mm of new cup was exposed... gonna just re-install my old 10mm bottom cup & start moving forward again on this project... btw do i have any cause to yell at the seller who sold me this bottom cup? It's way after 30 days since i bought it.

inside bottom of headtube 13mm

new headset cup "inner" 15mm

old cup 10mm

old cup at left / new Cane Creek cup at right


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

It did feel like it bottomed out & stuck... but i'm sure you see what was in the way now. Again tyvm guys. I dunno when i would've figured out to remove the new bottom cup & measure. I naturally trusted the component specs. This taught me a lesson... if ever any problems, measure specs YOURSELF! :thumbsup:


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

No, you really have zero recourse against the seller who sold you the headset. They had no way of knowing how much clearance you had in your head tube. I'm no pro mechanic and I've only pressed a couple headsets, but this doesn't look like something a reamer would necessarily address. This may be one of those weird Cannondale things. Especially since it's an old bike.


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## sodak (Oct 10, 2006)

Bummer man. That would be a "bottom out". Did you buy this from a retailer or person to person? If you can't exchange it, clean it up and post it for sale. Use the $$ to get the headset you need. What year Cannondale is that? Looks like and older "super V"


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

He's a nice guy but yea i guess he thought i was doing it on a newer Cannondale frame. I bought it here InfinityCycling.com - Cannondale Cups, Tapered, 1 1/8th . I believe i'll just keep it because i am using the top headset cup 1-1/8". Yes it's a 1999 Super V. I'm removing the Fatty D fork & putting on a Fox Float 1-1/8" to 1.5" steerer tube


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

It's just that that product link came from his site vintagecannondales... eh it's okay.

PS. I'm gonna re-install the old bottom headset cup. I tried putting in the new cartridge bearings into the old bottom cup, but it won't go in at all (by hand). I don't even wanna try pressing the bearings into the cup. (The new bearings did go right into the new bottom cup though). Eh, at this point i don't care. So i got a new top cup with new bearings & old bottom cup with old bearings... sweeeeet.. not... whatever


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Chuck it up in a lathe and reduce the O.A.L. if you really want to use it.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> Chuck it up in a lathe and reduce the O.A.L. if you really want to use it.


You mean like boring out a motorcycle cylinder?


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## Learux (Jun 4, 2012)

Make the new cup 11mm, put it in there, forget about it. good luck.

Can you imagine what damage you would have done with cheater bars.

What do you guys think would have cracked first. Cup, frame or press?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Now i got 3 thin silver metal spacers that came with the new Cane Creek headset. I hope they're optional  (new top cup installed/old bottom cup re-installed) Thanks


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

I re-installed my old bottom cup & old bearings. I have another problem. As you can see, the bottom cartridge bearing is not sitting on the crown race. That is the new crown race which came with the new headset. Basically, i need a new 1.5" bottom cup... & the part of that cup which goes inside the headtube that is not visible... the *height *needs to be 12mm or less. Great. Where do i go to buy one? Thanks


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Use the race that goes with the bearing that you are going to use.


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## mtnbikej (Sep 6, 2001)

TheeSuperUberV said:


> I re-installed my old bottom cup & old bearings. I have another problem. As you can see, the bottom cartridge bearing is not sitting on the crown race. That is the new crown race which came with the new headset. Basically, i need a new 1.5" bottom cup... & the part of that cup which goes inside the headtube that is not visible... the *height *needs to be 12mm or less. Great. Where do i go to buy one? Thanks


Did you put the bearing in in the correct way?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> Use the race that goes with the bearing that you are going to use.


Thanks. I tried to do what you said but i can't get the bottom bearing off the Headshok Super Fatty D fork's steerer tube. It won't slide off. Vise grips can't get enough of a clamp on it. Meaning i can't get to the old crown race.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

mtnbikej said:


> Did you put the bearing in in the correct way?


I believe they can go in either way. I had the other old bearings in my hand & was looking for any differential. I didn't see any.

Right now, i'm trying to find a bottom cup with an inside height of 12mm or less, so it won't hit the "inside of the headtube taper/cup-stopper"... something like this Cane Creek 40 IS-52 Lower Headset Assembly 1.5 but i dunno about IS frames. I don't think my '99 Super V is an IS frame.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

I need some help here. I think this would work Cane Creek 40 ZS Lower Headset Assembly 1-1/2" 56mm Any experts here?


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

The new crown race on your new fork looks like it's on upside down, not that it matters since it's not mating right with the old headset's old bearings.

I too suggest getting the original crown race off the old fork. Get a hammer and flat head screw driver and gently tap all around the old cartridge bearing and "walk" if off the old fork. Then get to the old race.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

...but before you use the hammer and flat head to tap the old bearing off the steerer from my previous post, check if your old crown race is steel or aluminum. If it's steel, it will be sturdy enough to survive the tapping operation. If aluminum, it will get chewed up beyond any use.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> The new crown race on your new fork looks like it's on upside down, not that it matters since it's not mating right with the old headset's old bearings.
> 
> I too suggest getting the original crown race off the old fork. Get a hammer and flat head screw driver and gently tap all around the old cartridge bearing and "walk" if off the old fork. Then get to the old race.


According to several mtbr members from this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/crown-race-way-up-211770.html, it is on correctly. I guess i'll try the screwdriver again & try to pry it apart.


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## Max24 (Jan 31, 2013)

TheeSuperUberV said:


> I believe they can go in either way. I had the other old bearings in my hand & was looking for any differential. I didn't see any.
> 
> Right now, i'm trying to find a bottom cup with an inside height of 12mm or less, so it won't hit the "inside of the headtube taper/cup-stopper"... something like this Cane Creek 40 IS-52 Lower Headset Assembly 1.5 but i dunno about IS frames. I don't think my '99 Super V is an IS frame.


Yep, I can confirm that they can go either way.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> ...but before you use the hammer and flat head to tap the old bearing off the steerer from my previous post, check if your old crown race is steel or aluminum. If it's steel, it will be sturdy enough to survive the tapping operation. If aluminum, it will get chewed up beyond any use.


I can't get to the old crown race. I can't see under the old bearings. If i get a magnet to it, the bearings will magnetize to the magnet. I checked before. The old bearings are steel.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Learux said:


> Make the new cup 11mm, put it in there, forget about it. good luck.
> Can you imagine what damage you would have done with cheater bars.
> What do you guys think would have cracked first. Cup, frame or press?


Yes, i will try to find a bottom cup 11mm height. To be sure, I'm gonna re-measure the inside bottom of headtube. It may not be 13mm. It maybe 12mm or 11mm


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

1. IS means the headset cup is integrated into the frame and your frame is not IS. 

2. What is the internal bore of your head tube? Is it 52mm? Easy way to check is to look at the code on the new headset cup you tried to press in. Or measure.

3. IIRC the headset bearing on the Fatty Headshok is a symmetrical bearing whereas the Cane Creek bearing is tapered. This means you cannot use the old headset cup/bearing with the new CC race.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

Hmm, learned something new today. I've never worked with a headset where the crown race could flip around either way.

From your close ups of the new fork that's not fitting...if I'm seeing it right, is that gap between the crown race and the lower cup due to the steerer's taper running into the cup? If that's the case, a new cup might be the only way to go.

When Dirty Sanchez said reduce the OAL earlier, I think he's talking about over all length of the cup's mating sleeve. As in - grind a few mm off the top so that it will actually fit in the 13mm of clearance your head tube has. Nothing to bore out.

This means you're not going to make as much progress on the build as you thought you were going to tonight. That feeling sucks, I know.


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

Zuarte said:


> When Dirty Sanchez said reduce the OAL earlier, I think he's talking about over all length of the cup's mating sleeve. As in - grind a few mm off the top so that it will actually fit in the 13mm of clearance your head tube has. Nothing to bore out.


This is an option. Not very graceful, but if done carefully it could work.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Berkley said:


> 1. IS means the headset cup is integrated into the frame and your frame is not IS.
> 
> 2. What is the internal bore of your head tube? Is it 52mm? Easy way to check is to look at the code on the new headset cup you tried to press in. Or measure.
> 
> 3. IIRC the headset bearing on the Fatty Headshok is a symmetrical bearing whereas the Cane Creek bearing is tapered. This means you cannot use the old headset cup/bearing with the new CC race.


Thanks Berkley. Internal bore? New cup says EC49. I'll post a pic of it. The new EC49 cup that didn't fit is on the right. The cup i may buy soon is at left. What do you think?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Berkley said:


> This is an option. Not very graceful, but if done carefully it could work.


ohh


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> Hmm, learned something new today. I've never worked with a headset where the crown race could flip around either way.
> 
> From your close ups of the new fork that's not fitting...if I'm seeing it right, is that gap between the crown race and the lower cup due to the steerer's taper running into the cup? If that's the case, a new cup might be the only way to go.
> 
> ...


The gap between the crown race is from the 1.5" steerer's taper hitting the old bearings. But Berkley mentioned i can't use the old cup/old bearings with the new crown race anyway.
Oh grind down the height to make it shorter. That'll work if i do that. Wow. I'd rather buy a new bottom cup like pictured at left. Thanks for the help

The Cane Creek 40ZS pictured at left doesn't say what height the "inners" are. I'll have to contact artscyclery... but it sure looks like it'll fit by a mile


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

So it appears you need an *EC49* headset cup with an insertion depth of less than 12mm. EC = External Cup. That means the headset sits outside of the head tube, as opposed to Zero Stack (ZS) where the cup is pressed inside the frame (your upper headset cup is a zero stack). 49 = 49mm, or the internal diameter of the frame's head tube.

The headset on the left is a ZS56 and will be too big to fit in the frame.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Berkley said:


> So it appears you need an *EC49* headset cup with an insertion depth of less than 12mm. EC = External Cup. That means the headset sits outside of the head tube, as opposed to Zero Stack (ZS) where the cup is pressed inside the frame (your upper headset cup is a zero stack). 49 = 49mm, or the internal diameter of the frame's head tube.
> 
> The headset on the left is a ZS56 and will be too big to fit in the frame.


Wow, huge thanks for that info Berkley. I was practically sure i was gonna buy that 40ZS.


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

For what it's worth, the '40' refers to the Cane Creek model name. They make the 10 (entry level), the 40 (mid-grade) and the 110 (premium).

But yeah, EC49 with a shallow insertion depth is definitely the one you need to run a tapered fork.

EDIT: This one might work. I've noticed a lot of companies don't list insertion depth so you might need to make some phone calls.

WOOdman Components Road & x country freeride Mountain bikes


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Berkley said:


> For what it's worth, the '40' refers to the Cane Creek model name. They make the 10 (entry level), the 40 (mid-grade) and the 110 (premium).
> 
> But yeah, EC49 with a shallow insertion depth is definitely the one you need to run a tapered fork.


Cool, thanks for the different ranking levels with Cane Creek's headsets. More knowledge is good! Again huge thanks for the "EC49 with a shallow insertion depth." That wording will help better than mine. I can't thank you enough man! Happy Thanksgiving dude!

And thanks to everyone else who tried to figure this out too!

update: I took another look at the EC49 cup. Since it's of no use to me at that insertion depth, i'm gonna Dremel it down to size... unless i can actually find a proper cup with correct insertion depth. Thanks again Berkley. You da man!


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

TheeSuperUberV said:


> Cool, thanks for the different ranking levels with Cane Creek's headsets. More knowledge is good! Again huge thanks for the "EC49 with a shallow insertion depth." That wording will help better than mine. I can't thank you enough man! Happy Thanksgiving dude!
> 
> And thanks to everyone else who tried to figure this out too!


No problem, glad I could help .Check out the link I edited into my last post. Worst case scenario you can always take the Cane Creek cup you have and remove some material so it will fit. If you're not inclined to grind, maybe take it to a machine shop? I'm sure they could mill it down, I just don't know how much it would cost.

You're stuck in an unfortunate spot, but not completely dead in the water.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Berkley said:


> No problem, glad I could help .Check out the link I edited into my last post. Worst case scenario you can always take the Cane Creek cup you have and remove some material so it will fit. If you're not inclined to grind, maybe take it to a machine shop? I'm sure they could mill it down, I just don't know how much it would cost.
> 
> You're stuck in an unfortunate spot, but not completely dead in the water.


Thank you for the Woodman link. I edited my last post before reading yours, to mention i may Dremel it down to size. Thanks Berkley!


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

TheeSuperUberV said:


> ...
> update: I took another look at the EC49 cup. Since it's of no use to me at that insertion depth, i'm gonna Dremel it down to size... unless i can actually find a proper cup with correct insertion depth. Thanks again Berkley. You da man!


Exactly what I would do. A cups are aluminum, which is short work for a grinder wheel and a file. Besides, the part you're grinding is getting inserted into a tube so no one will see it again. It also isn't really structural (to an extent, of course), since a head set experiences compressive loads that take place between the shoulder of cup and the head tube. All in all, not much to loose by trying, and you save having to buy another cup and waiting for shipping.

edit - go easy on the grinding. Al tends to melt and clump onto certain grinding wheels.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> Exactly what I would do. A cups are aluminum, which is short work for a grinder wheel and a file. Besides, the part you're grinding is getting inserted into a tube so no one will see it again. It also isn't really structural (to an extent, of course), since a head set experiences compressive loads that take place between the shoulder of cup and the head tube. All in all, not much to loose by trying, and you save having to buy another cup and waiting for shipping.
> 
> edit - go easy on the grinding. Al tends to melt and clump onto certain grinding wheels.


Correctamundo Zuarte. I forgot it is aluminum... easy cutting. Makes [email protected]/compressive loads. Thanks Zuarte. Also gonna call to see how much that Woodman cup is.

update: I figured it'd be more precise using a hacksaw than the Dremel. The Dremel has more potential to wander. I'll use the HHP-2 headset press or a C-clamp to hold the cup. This should be nice & precise


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## Learux (Jun 4, 2012)

Not sure what would be the best way to make this fit. Take it to a machine shop, they will be able to tell you and make that cup shorter real fast.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Learux said:


> Not sure what would be the best way to make this fit. Take it to a machine shop, they will be able to tell you and make that cup shorter real fast.


Learux, I decided to hacksaw it. I re-measured the insertion depth inside the headtube at 12mm. (Old cup's insertion depth was 10mm). First pic shows new cup's insertion depth 15mm, before cutting. The second pic shows the new cup before cutting & what happened to the surface, just before i posted this thread, yelling SOS! HELP!... remember about 2mm of the bottom cup refused to go into the headtube... i was tightening the headset press & crushing the bottom cup up into the inside headtube's "cup stopper". I hacksawed away about 4mm-5mm, bringing it down to 10mm-11mm. I did lay the chair/C-clamp on its back to get a proper vertical cut. The cut didn't turn out so precise as planned, so after the cut, the surface was a lil hilly. I filed the surface smooth. Gonna install tomorrow when i've got the energy.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

File a chamfer on the cut edge.


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## Learux (Jun 4, 2012)

That is probably what I would have done.

The chamfer is a good idea.

This should work just fine!


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> File a chamfer on the cut edge.


On the inside edge where my finger is touching?

Or on the outside edge where my thumb is touching?

Chamfer makes it seat better? I looked at the piece i cut off & it's factory-flat though


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

Put one on the outside so there are no hangups while pressing in. It only needs to be a light one.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> Put one on the outside so there are no hangups while pressing in. It only needs to be a light one.


+1 Thanks


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Just a thought...gripe actually... originally i had a DIY headset press, hence the C-clamp & 2 wood blocks shown. Had it not been for Cannondale's "cup-stop" inside their headtube, my new Cane Creek bottom cup would've pressed in no problem with my DIY tool. And i would not have bought Park Tool HHP-2. I still had to hacksaw the cup. At least i could use HHP-2 on my BMX also, so not totally worthless. And the C-clamp was put to use to hold the cup for cutting. I could return HHP-2, pay return shipping & get most of my $$ back but i am a stickler for proper tools. Eh, just saying. So really, why did Cannondale put that seemingly unnecessary "cup-stop" in there for?


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

It is not a "cup stop", rather it is machined to the proper diameter to ensure a proper cup fit after welding.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> It is not a "cup stop", rather it is machined to the proper diameter to ensure a proper cup fit after welding.


Sorry, "cup-stop" is what i call it. I dunno the proper wording. Yes i know it is machined in with the frame at the right size... but i'm still scratching my head about _"to ensure a proper cup fit after welding"_. I'm trying my best to imagine/understand that, but i'm lost


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

The welding process distorts the head tube, ovalizing the tube. To regain a concentric surface to pilot the headset cup the tube must be re cut round again, "after welding", otherwise the cup could be out of round when installed. Starting to make any sense?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Dirty $anchez said:


> The welding process distorts the head tube, ovalizing the tube. To regain a concentric surface to pilot the headset cup the tube must be re cut round again, "after welding", otherwise the cup could be out of round when installed. Starting to make any sense?


I think so. After looking at the pic i posted of that area, they made the frame but the inside tubing is not yet honed perfectly, for example to fit headset cups, so they machine it like you said. And they didn't care to machine it another 3mm higher i guess. It was good enough for their 10mm insertion depth cups. I follow you right?


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

I'm glad it's working out. Episodes like this make us better tinkerers. Trying to fit modern parts onto old frames, running into unforseen issues, and using some pluck to solve the problem. Now you've got another story to tell.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

You would have been so much better off just taking this to a cannondale dealer from the get go.


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

Dirty $anchez said:


> The welding process distorts the head tube, ovalizing the tube. To regain a concentric surface to pilot the headset cup the tube must be re cut round again, "after welding", otherwise the cup could be out of round when installed. Starting to make any sense?





TheeSuperUberV said:


> I think so. After looking at the pic i posted of that area, they made the frame but the inside tubing is not yet honed perfectly, for example to fit headset cups, so they machine it like you said. And they didn't care to machine it another 3mm higher i guess. It was good enough for their 10mm insertion depth cups. I follow you right?


There is several other factors involved with Cannondale's decision to only cut 10mm into the headtube for the headset cup.

1. Headtube strength. The higher up you cut, the less strength the headtube will have. The lower HS cup area has tremendous stress against it. You want a strong tube there. You want to remove as little material as possible there. Many modern frames use gusseting or external butting to add strength to this area.

2. Manufacturing economics. Cutting an extra 5mm might not seem like much, but stretched out over thousands of frames, the wear and tear on the manufacturing tools will add up. Bike companies are out to save every dime possible during frame manufacturing. That extra 5mm would mean higher costs for the HS cutter bits.

3. What was required in 1999? We had less travel from the suspension, lower power rim brakes, and we were not asking as much out our headsets. 15mm of press in space was probably unheard of ten years ago. We didn't need that much headset.


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## guamjim (Jun 3, 2013)

> I'm glad it's working out. Episodes like this make us better tinkerers. Trying to fit modern parts onto old frames, running into unforseen issues, and using some pluck to solve the problem. Now you've got another story to tell.


Yes to this, I have learned a lot from threads like this and those willing to post to them. :thumbsup:



> You would have been so much better off just taking this to a cannondale dealer from the get go.


No to this, you sound like my father! I wouldn't have learned anything and what's more, it may not even be true, depending on the dealer.


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## Learux (Jun 4, 2012)

A question that comes up. How important is it for the cup to make contact to the beveled edge inside the tube. If yes, did you maybe cut away too much.

In other words, will the lower part of the steerer tube be able to carry all the load?


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Zuarte said:


> I'm glad it's working out. Episodes like this make us better tinkerers. Trying to fit modern parts onto old frames, running into unforseen issues, and using some pluck to solve the problem. Now you've got another story to tell.


+1 Thanks Zuarte


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Brewtality said:


> There is several other factors involved with Cannondale's decision to only cut 10mm into the headtube for the headset cup.
> 
> 1. Headtube strength. The higher up you cut, the less strength the headtube will have. The lower HS cup area has tremendous stress against it. You want a strong tube there. You want to remove as little material as possible there. Many modern frames use gusseting or external butting to add strength to this area.
> 
> ...


@point 1... Yes i have thought of the strength factor also.
@point 2... True
@point 3... good point


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## Brewtality (Jul 25, 2007)

Learux said:


> A question that comes up. How important is it for the cup to make contact to the beveled edge inside the tube. If yes, did you maybe cut away too much.
> 
> In other words, will the lower part of the steerer tube be able to carry all the load?


I don't see how the steer tube would be affected. 
It is critical that the HS cup NOT touch the top of the machined counterbore. If the cup were to make contact at the counterbore ledge, it would move the point of contact away from the bearing cup area. This would compromise the strength of the HS cup and the head tube. 
You want the bearing cup to be seated against the bottom of the headtube. The bearing cup is what is designed to hold and transfer the loads and shocks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Learux said:


> A question that comes up. How important is it for the cup to make contact to the beveled edge inside the tube. If yes, did you maybe cut away too much.
> 
> In other words, will the lower part of the steerer tube be able to carry all the load?


The beveled edge inside the headtube starts 12mm in. The original cup insertion depth was 10mm, so the cup was not touching the beveled edge. My cut cup should not touch either at 10mm-11mm. Gonna install cup now. Should be easy pressing.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Brewtality said:


> I don't see how the steer tube would be affected.
> It is critical that the HS cup NOT touch the top of the machined counterbore. If the cup were to make contact at the counterbore ledge, it would move the point of contact away from the bearing cup area. This would compromise the strength of the HS cup and the head tube.
> You want the bearing cup to be seated against the bottom of the headtube. The bearing cup is what is designed to hold and transfer the loads and shocks.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe your right.


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## TheeSuperUberV (Jun 10, 2013)

Installation of new bottom cup complete. Greased it & went in easy. Only thing i forgot to grease is in between fork crown & crown race, but i read that is not critical. I did grease in between crown race & bottom bearing. There's a small space under the bottom cup but i believe that is normal, going by other bike pics i saw. It might press in a hair more when i put on the star nut, etc... I did see someone fill in that space with grease though. And those 3 silver metal washers... i only needed one above the "top cover O-ring", according to the last pic i posted. Posted it for other beginners like myself who come across this thread & wanna know. Again, thank you all. I sincerely appreciate your input.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

guamjim said:


> No to this, you sound like my father! I wouldn't have learned anything and what's more, it may not even be true, depending on the dealer.


Your father sounds like a very practical man. It comes down to wether you want to ride your bike or work on it. What started as a fairly straight forward headset and fork swap took how many weeks? It could have been a 30 minute job if the right parts were ordered the first time. But yeah with the wrong bike shop it could have been equally as disastrous.


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## Berkley (May 21, 2007)

customfab said:


> Your father sounds like a very practical man. It comes down to wether you want to ride your bike or work on it. *What started as a fairly straight forward headset and fork swap took how many weeks?* It could have been a 30 minute job if the right parts were ordered the first time. But yeah with the wrong bike shop it could have been equally as disastrous.


He started the thread two days ago so...less than one week?

I doubt a shop would have helped much. Good luck trying to find an EC49 headset cup with a 10mm insertion depth. Most distributor catalogs (QBP, BTI, J&B etc.) don't even list that data.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

It really comes down to two philosophies. Some people like paying others to do things for them, and some people like to do things for themselves, and value what they can learn in the process. Apples and oranges, really.


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## floydlippencott (Sep 4, 2010)

Some folks go at things differently. It seems this was a good learning moment all around with the pics and all. And there were no Big Fugging Hammers (BFH) harmed in the fiming of this episode. :thumbsup:


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## bushtrucker (Oct 31, 2016)

TheeSuperUberV said:


> Installation of new bottom cup complete. Greased it & went in easy. Only thing i forgot to grease is in between fork crown & crown race, but i read that is not critical. I did grease in between crown race & bottom bearing. There's a small space under the bottom cup but i believe that is normal, going by other bike pics i saw. It might press in a hair more when i put on the star nut, etc... I did see someone fill in that space with grease though. And those 3 silver metal washers... i only needed one above the "top cover O-ring", according to the last pic i posted. Posted it for other beginners like myself who come across this thread & wanna know. Again, thank you all. I sincerely appreciate your input.


A decade later and I've come across this exact same problem while assembling a custom hardtail. This was the only place on the internet where I found a solution. Thanks for the detailed explanation!


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