# Stem adapter - quill to threadless stem



## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Need help from those who have done this conversion. I'm unfamiliar with the quill stem and how it works. I recently learned about this conversion and decided to do it since it looks better and gives me more stem options. I ordered a Nashbar stem adapter and have read about removing and installing a quill stem, but I still have questions.

From what I've read, it sounds like I can remove the quill stem without affecting the threaded headset and therefore do not have to worry about adjusting it. True?

Is it basically loosen the bolt on top by turning it a bit (but not all the way), tap it, remove stem, and insert new conversion stem? Sorta "plug and play"? If yes, do I then tighten the bolt as tight as possible? I know with a threadless system you have to be careful about that.

Do I need to grease the quill stem on the area that will be inserted into the steerer tube? Do I grease the wedge too? What kind of grease?


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## TurnerRick (Jul 27, 2011)

If it is like mine then you are half way there, on top of the head tube there should be a big nut, that is a compression nut that also holds the quill. You only have to loosen it a little, but don't take it off completely. Look up Sheldon Browns site and it gives you all kinds of info on it.


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## wv_bob (Sep 12, 2005)

TurnerRick said:


> If it is like mine then you are half way there, on top of the head tube there should be a big nut, that is a compression nut that also holds the quill. You only have to loosen it a little, but don't take it off completely. Look up Sheldon Browns site and it gives you all kinds of info on it.


What kind of headset do you have? I have never seen a threaded headset that has any role in retaining the stem.

The work plan laid out by the OP has it right. Loosen the quill bolt, whack it, pull the stem out, put the adapter in, tighten the bolt up, add stem and handlebars.

I would not recommend loosening any part of the threaded headset unless there is something wrong with it.


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## fishcreek (Apr 10, 2007)

make sure you get the right adapter. i've used them on my two bikes.

1 1/8" - 1 1/8" adapter.










1" - 1 1/8" adapter.










not clearly shown but you know the drill.


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Fishcreek: Yeah, it took me a while to figure that out. I was confused by the 1" or 1 1/8" options Nashbar has. I thought what? Isn't it supposed to be 1 1/8 since that's what I want to convert to? But the 1" is for steerer tubes that are 1"...so that's what I ordered. Did I ordered correctly?


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## girlonbike (Apr 24, 2008)

c'mon dude. You're the only one that can see your bike. Nobody else can use their jedi tricks to see inside your house to see if you have a 1" or 1 1/8" steerer tube.

Personally, I like the look of quill stems better.


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## proto2000 (Jan 27, 2007)

Yuri says buy both.


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## CS2 (Jul 24, 2007)

fishcreek said:


> make sure you get the right adapter. i've used them on my two bikes.
> 
> 1 1/8" - 1 1/8" adapter.
> 
> ...


Nice Technium, how did you route the cable for the rear brake?


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## ctownposse (Mar 9, 2008)

I am trying to do the same thing but the stem I have now is a 21.1. Has anyone taken an adapter (22.2) and had it turned down to 21.1?


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Turning down quill adapter*

I did it on the lathe, and it worked fine on the adapter. Turning down the wedge was a bit tricky, had to make a mandrel to thread it on to before I could turn it down. I only rode it for a little while, then I just had the haedtube reamed to 1 1/8" (old schwinn cruiser with bmx headset) and installed a normal threadless headset, fork and stem.

I may still have the quill adapter in the parts bin. I will check tonight and take a pic.

frog


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## ctownposse (Mar 9, 2008)

10-4 this is what I was thinking. Did A bikeshop ream the headtube and what did thaey charge?


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## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Reaming Headtube*

Yea, had the LBS do it. Been a couple years, can't remember how much it cost. You will have to make sure the headtube OD and ID are sufficient to ream it out without compromising wall thickness. Seems like I had to take off a total of .060" or .030" per side, so it wasn't a ton of material. Thank goodness the Schwinn frame had thick tubing!:thumbsup:

Here is a pick of the bike in one of it's configurations, with Surly fork and Avid disc brake.

frog


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## djork (Nov 8, 2004)

Looks like I got the correct Nashbar stem adapter. I have to say it looks nice. It's about 140mm in length, I think. 40mm of stem stack height. I like the fact that where the 1 1/8 part meets the 22.2 part doesn't taper like the the Forte brand from Performance Bikes. Nashbar has it on sale for $12.99. Not sure if the sale is still in effect.


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