# Ituo WIZ XP2



## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

*Ituo WIZ XP2 1500 Lumen Mountain Bike Light*

Yes guys, here it is, the Ituo WIZ XP2!!!

We spoke, Ituo listened. Other lights have some catching up to do.

https://www.ituolights.com/collecti...men-neutral-white-led-mountain-bike-light-kit










Will be in stock (including US) mid-late June.

Ok here's the details:

It's really nice quality, very much in line with what we see from Ituo. But I think this one is a tad better. Very clean look.

-Dual Cree XM-L2 U3 Neutral White emitters.
- rated at 1500lumens, 1559 actual @ 30 seconds
-removable wired remote
-uses same optics as wiz20 so easily available and changeable to any pattern you want.
- fins are cut to proper depth on the front half, back half of the sides is cut really deep to increase thermal behidn emitters and @ driver
-gopro mount is STANDARD. Works like the WIZ1 and WIZ2 mount. QR slide lock gopro adapter then their QR style gopro handlebar mount.
-top button with standard 2 color battery level indication (but not very bright which is good)
-fully programmable driver. Hidden flash modes, press and hold for off, etc
- 18awg battery cable (yes your reading that right!)
-weight: 88g 
-includes a good gopro style helmet mount that uses Velcro straps (forgot a pic will do that tonight)
-run time is 3hrs on Ituo battery pack. Pack is 8.4v 4 x NCR18650Bf 3350mah Panasonic cells. Total 6700mah capacity, full protection circuit, neoprene pouch.



















Now here's a wrench in the mix. They used the threaded style connectors. BUT DONT LOOSE FAITH JUST YET:

I decided to test it with a normal MS connector. Ok it plugs in. Now the NUT is rather large. Largest I've ever seen in this application. So I decided to try and thread it onto a MS style female connector and...

IT WORKS AND HOLDS NICELY. Plenty secure. SO YOU CAN USE YOUR OWN PACKS THAT USE MS STYLE CONNECTORS. Does take a bit of effort the first time threading the nut over a MS connector but it DOES NOT damage anything. And works perfectly. Also since there is an oring on the connector, it seals just fine into the MS style connector.

Summary, the light head only is very much an option as long as you have ROUND MS style connectors on your existing battery pack.

Picture of Ituo connector on ms style:









Here is the last " first impression " thing I had to post:

All lights we see producing anywhere close to these lumens (even X2 and Duo) have a current draw OVER 2A. The XP2....1.8-1.9A current draw on high (1559 lumens). Only drivers I know that can do that are my custom prototypes from Mtnelectronics and the taskled drivers. Ituo did a "one up" on the other brands, they increased driver efficiency by a substantial percentage!!! Didn't expect that.

Only gripe I have is the button on the remote is almost flush. I did let them know to use a bigger silicone button so it's easy to feel through gloves.

Update:

Thermal protection details: FULL, RAPIDLY RESPONDING, ACTIVE THERMAL MANAGEMENT! Does have a "hard" step down with no air flow if temp continues to increase beyond the active control. Drops to 50% (about 800 lumens) but I kick the fan on and within 3-4 seconds output rapidly starts climbing again. During active control it's litterally 1 second before lux readings start increasing when I turn the fan on.

Thermally stable on the sphere system (which airflow isn't great, just even around the entire head).










Beam Shots (sorry the medium one looked like crap, i must have moved when trying to take the picture)

Beam shot high:










Beam Shot low:










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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Bar mounted with remote:




























Then better pictures on the helmet:



















Run time/lumen output graphs using 3 different packs:

2 cell 3500mah Panasonic NCR18650GA pack:









4 cell 5200mah Samsung 1865026F (same style pack used by Xeccon, Gemini, and Gloworm):









4 cell 6400mah Panasonic NCR18650BE (pack included with light kit):









Pictures of everything included:




























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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Nice teaser! Subscribed.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Price? Battery pack with quality batteries as with the Wiz20? Looks good and can't wait to test it myself so when can I get one? *I need my next light fix!*
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Price will be ~$160 for full kit as best guess ATM.

I gave the green light on it so will be early June (maybe sooner maybe not???) Before they have the first batch ready and to the US location.

Battery pack uses EXACT same cells as WIZ20, so Panasonic NCR18650BF 3200mah. 4 cell pack they are considering also making a 2 cell.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok quick update:

I pulled the front cover off and was seriously confused by what I was looking at. 

Now for the sake of protecting Ituos design, I won't explain in detail (and ask those that will understand my clues NOT POST IT, and do not ask cause I won't answer) but what I'm seeing is part of the thermal management control. Explains the insanely rapid response time to air flow changes. Took me a while to figure it out but it's really smart and different idea. Driver literally sees the emitter temperatures in real time instead of delay for driver to sense and respond to temperature changes itself.

Really nice design idea. And it responds so much faster than gloworm or Gemini thermal management.

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## Moguo (Apr 3, 2012)

will it be available as light head only ?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

It was posted in the OP about light head only option.

But yes it will be available.

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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

It looks pretty good from what you have shown so far. Removable remote is a big plus for me. This has most of the options we asked for in the custom build: go pro mount compatible, programmable driver, wired remote etc. I don't understand why they have to use that stupid threaded connector on the wire. 

You have me a bit worried about the internal design with your last post. Is there a solid wall conducting heat to the outside or not? 

When you get a chance could please post picture of a top and side view of the light head. I want to get an idea of the depth of the fins.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I should have been a bit more clear, my last post was referring to an electronic matter. Nothing to do with case machining.

Yes it has a full, solid wall and such. It's correctly designed internally.

I'll get this pics posted soon.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Just for you Varider










And beam shots added above.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> Just for you Varider


Thanks

That looks good to me. What do you think?

Is that some sort of quick release slide on the buttom of the light (between the gopro adapter and the light)? That's a nice touch. Hopefully it's as sturdy as it looks.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

Looks & sounds very nice. Any idea of lighthead only price? 

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Nothing on that yet, kit price was just a guess from our Ituo rep, should have prices next week

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Nothing on that yet, *kit price was just a guess from our Ituo rep, should have prices next week*
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Showing $154.99 on the website, is that not a valid price?
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They told me that price was current "thoughts" but nothing is finalized yet. My understanding is the current price is as high as it will be (the $160 I posted earlier), could be lower, won't know anything for sure till they make a final decision and pass the info on.

Their still working on their product pictures and such so mine is what there is ATM.

Remember, mine is a production sample so they are probably still doing a cost assessment for actual production runs in quantity. That's my guess on it. Just know nothing is finalized.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OK price info cam to me early and i was wrong, expected numbers i was given to be the highest. No they are "pre-order" sale price.

Kit price is 175.99 normally ($154.95 pre-order sale)

Light head only is that includes everything except battery pack and charger is $119.95 ($99.95 or 104.95 pre-order price, he wasnt sure exactly)

And for reference the XP3 will be $209.95 regular price.

Im not surprised though. Still cheaper that GW, around gemini pricing BUT:
Panasonic 3200mah cells used in the packs (packs will be $64.99 iirc), fully reactive, real time thermal management, removable remote, gopro style mounting system, programmable and so on. So a few marks above GW, many above gemini, quality is there. And I can definitely say the lights hold up. Wiz20 has been through hell and back, still perfect.

Ya I know, we were hoping for a little lower priced. But I just got a reality check as to why all these options get pricey when put together, so we dont see them. Especially panasonic cells used at this price range.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Excellent. Any info on "Fully programmable" driver?

Is it this:

"User programmable: 2 or 3 steady modes, 
programmable brightness at 10% intervals.
Hidden mode options include multiple flash options and 5% steady mode"


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Looks like Ituo is not messing around. My wiz20 is a very good self contained light. I've emailed Keith at Ituo and received fast replies to my questions about my wiz20. Support is there. Now this xp2 looks like a contender for sure. Even with a gw x2 I'm still considering buying this light.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Figured I'd throw in a quick update, Ituo said these will be in stock in the US almost a month exactly. Week of June 20-24th. 

Dirt's right. Seems Ituo is not messing around.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Figured I'd throw in a quick update, Ituo said these will be in stock in the US almost a month exactly. Week of June 20-24th.
> 
> Dirt's right. Seems Ituo is not messing around.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Well I guess I won't have one by next weekend, Dang!

Any impression yet on how this light works in regards to operating temperature? Is it cool running like the Wiz20 or "not so cool running" like the X2 and Duo?
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well the WIZ20 doesn't need or use thermal step down, and I was able to test the thermal management on this.

It's literally impossible to have a small dual emitter head push decent lumens and not get hot.

But I haven't done a comparison test against the duo or x2 to see exactly how it does yet.

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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Can you show pictures of the remote plug? I am interested in knowing what type of connector it uses and where it plugs in. Is this a possible point where water can leak in? In the future I may want to know if I can make my own remote or at least an extension wire.

Did you get a chance to take pictures of the internals while you took it apart? How thick is the wall behind the leds.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Well the WIZ20 doesn't need or use thermal step down, and I was able to test the thermal management on this.
> 
> It's literally impossible to have a small dual emitter head push decent lumens and not get hot.
> 
> ...


Not super important, I'll run tests when I get mine. While I understood the lower (compared to the X2 and Duo) output numbers on the Wiz20 as a "self-contained" compromise of output vs. run-time I was surprised the XP2 output while improved over the Wiz20 still trailed the other 2 lights slightly (considering this light is marketed to us lumen whores).
Knowing the hot running nature of the X2 and my older Duo (new model sounds worse) and how both of those lights experience noticeable dimming when hot I was thinking if the XP2 is anything like my Wiz20 it should run cooler and loose less output to heat evening up its small power deficit @ 30 sec. at a more real-world operating temperature @ 15 min. (fan cooled).

% lux loss from 30 sec. to 15 min.: X2 - 5.5%.....Duo 8.6%.....Wiz20 - 1.6%

Multiply the percentage of power loss to the lumen #'s you got on your sphere and the XP2 would have the highest output! (I'm fairly comfortable using the older Duo as a substitute for the new model but using the Wiz20 as substitute for the XP2 is stretching a bit - why I'm questioning about how the XP2 handles the heat). Of course you have all the correct lights and a sphere (hint, hint), so if you could test this it would be ideal.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I just wonder the real world performance of the wiz20 (great) vs the xp2? I'm not an az nm rider. Upstate NY. I understand there's a temp control by the LED. Why should someone buy this vs a gloworm x2 or a duo? I'm loving my wiz20 but I don't think I can realize any performance difference? Tell me I'm wrong...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The output thing, I didn't test with fan cooling. Was just a quick test. But it's output was literally within several lumens of the others.

But comparisons are coming in time, got alot on my plate ATM, let me finish up base reviews then ill move onto my new project.

Varider, I'll get pics when I can but modifications aren't really an option. The plug is custom molded around a male headphone plug. Button housing is also custom made and mods are going to damage the crap outta it. Expanded the diameter and oring to seal and lock the plug into the head. In line extension cutting existing wire and making it longer may be possible but I won't recommend it if your worried about water.

Cant submerge it but I poured water over it and no issues for water getting in. I'm not sure how long you want that thing but it's insanely long in its own.

And sorry not taking pictures of internals (I won't for new release brand name models to protect their designs) or disassembling to try and measure internal wall. It's plenty thick for heat transfer to the case based on what I see with the internal machining.

Not trying to be a pain, but I've got 3 reviews going right now and a 4 on its way next week.

Dirt. Besides a tad more lumens it's not meant to be a performance upgrade at all. Lumens are only about 100-150 more. But it's 1/3 the weight because it's not self contained. Allows for different sized packs based on user needs. Thus making helmet use more possible. Has remote. Beyond that there isn't some huge difference. But making all that happen and work well in something 1/3 the size is what causes the much higher price. Especially a removable remote, having it in hand, wasn't an easy task making that happen.

It's a "everything we want in a standard (not self contained) light system" but if a wiz20 does the job and you don't need a remote, gopro mount, light that is low weight for helmet use, then the wiz20 has it all covered.

So it has gopro mount set up, including bar mount. Uses Panasonic cells standard. Removable wired remote. Top button. Widely available and inexpensive optics in many varieties. Real time (instead of delayed) active thermal management. And lower cost.

Gloworm: remote not removable. No on head button. Good thermal management but its based on driver only so there is a delay in response to temperature changes. No direct gopro mount compatibility (I'll have to double check). Very much the most expensive option. May have the most surface area (though much of it goes unused due to head layout). Spot optics are great but beyond that it's very lacking on optics choices.

Gemini: No active thermal management, only hard step down to rather low output level. Uses band mounts only. Heads are a bit small to deal with output levels. On head button of duo is a pain in the rear (like the beloved yinding) both being on the rear and hard to find even with thin gloves Plus side is they have a good wireless system. Similar in price to XP2 but lacking in thermal performance and mounting design/options.



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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Varider, Ill get a picture posted of the plug itself and the rear view of the light tomorrow (have them on my phone, best camera I got now by a mile lol)

Wall thickness is calculated guess as there is 2 thicknesses. one where the mcpcb is mounted into the head then the surrounding material. 1.5mm thick behind the mcpcb directly, 2.8mm thick everywhere else. 1mm is all thats needed since it solid wall, so all good there. I knew it was PLENTY thick, but since I was changing optics, figured Id go ahead and check it with the caliper.

Mole: If I understand you correctly, you wanted to know the percentage of lux lost from initial start to 30 second reading. X2 and XP2 were neck and neck. 0.4% better on the XP2. Duo wasnt too far behind at 30 second reading, only 0.6% behind X2. XP2 was a 4.8% lux loss at 30 seconds.

I matched optics in all 3 to make it as much "all else being equal" as possible. Surpisingly lumen ratings on this test at 30 seconds were within a few lumens of each other.

At one minute, the gap had grown a lot. Duo was at 10%, X2 was at 8.3%........XP2 was at 6.1%. XP2 was much more steady than the other 2 with the Duo leading the way in lux lost for the 5 minute test time.

XP2 current draw on high is 1.8A. 1.5mm thick fins with 1.6mm gaps 1.71 to 3.35mm depth (depending on location). Top sides and bottom

X2 is 2.1A most surface area but fins are skinny and tightest spaced. .8mm thick with 1.5mm gaps, top and bottom only 3.4mm depth

Duo is 2.5A and least surface area. 2.2mm thick, 1.9mm spacing and 1.35mm depth. All around head.

XP2 is the most efficient wich is mainly why it handles the lumens the best. The driver is producing less heat than X2 or DUO (DUO would be the worst by far at 2.5A to get 1500 lumens), similar in surface area to the X2 but went with slightly thicker fins (which can be better since the tip which is exposed to direct air flow is wider). 

Duo basically though still a nice light, has lost this "competition". Only up side to it is the wireless remote system.

XP2 and X2 are neck and neck for weight. XP2 has less voltage sag (.17v) under load than X2. Attribute that to the larger wire and less current draw, more so the current draw as x2 has 20awg wire. Duo is still 22awg.

Ituo has one hell of an engineer. I love my gloworm lights but my equipment doesn't lie. Bang for buck XP2 wins by a good margin. My X2 is now shelved (well barred, new home is my handlebar display on my work table).

Now if ituo would come out with an offset mounting system so my OCD for lights being centered doesnt both me when i mount it (ill fix that myself for now) we would have THE PERFECT light IMHO.


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Ok thanks.

So you put the same optics in all three lights (Glowworm, Duo, Ituo)? What's the lumen output of the three lights. You quote the amp draw, is that all using the same battery.

You say that the Glowworm has the most surface area. That's the most important part of the heat transfer. I think to work out which lighthead is better, i.e. lower thermal resistance, you would actually have to model both lights in a CFD program. With the results you are getting I'm sure that both are good.



tigris99 said:


> Wall thickness is calculated guess as there is 2 thicknesses. one where the mcpcb is mounted into the head then the surrounding material. 1.5mm thick behind the mcpcb directly, 2.8mm thick everywhere else. 1mm is all thats needed since it solid wall, so all good there. I knew it was PLENTY thick, but since I was changing optics, figured Id go ahead and check it with the caliper.


I appreciate you going to the effort to measure the thickness of that surface. That thickness act as a thermal resistance. It's analogous to the resistance in an electric circuit. The thicker the surface, the less thermal resistance it has in the same way than making a wire in an electric circuit thicker makes it less resistant to current. The only downside to making it thicker is to makes the light heavier. So it's probably much better to have 2 mm thick wall than a 1 mm wall.

Have you thought about leaving the light in the sphere for the entire run time of the battery? The mtbr light shootout used to do that with some surprising results.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

They all came out just below 1600 lumens.

Not that it made a single bit of difference but I did test on matching packs (I check current draw/outputs via 3 different packs. All came up the same with just a tiny change in voltage sag).

One thing I've learned with messing with these lights, it's NOT just about surface area, has to be used correctly as well. That's why a bt21 is the best light for heat dissipation above all other dual emitter lights that exist.

As we know there is a massive science involved in it.

Could compare head designs if all had identical drivers as well, but with such a gap in driver efficiency, hard to say who did better on case design.

The wall thickness thing: yes thicker is better to a point. But it's also a function of the amount of area it's being dispersed to. 

Go from the size of an emitter, heat transfered through the solder joints. That heat is rapidly spread all around the PCB for the emitter. Then transferred to the case. 

At this point you have a 1mm thick wall (in the case of this xp2, 20mm diameter ) that transfers the heat to the outer case.

In this case (Wiz xp2 which again. Has 20mm diameter emitter housings), that translates to 62.83 square mm of material transfering heat to the outer case PER EMITTER. So 125.66 square mm of thermal transfer space to the outer case.

That coming from 16 square mm of space that is the unit generating the heat.


As for the leaving a light on the sphere for full run time, seems you didn't make it to checking out wiz20 or xeccon z11 review threads . I do a full runtime/output graph. Just haven't gotten the time to do it yet.

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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I was talking about the heat conducting wall thermal resistance, not the resistance of the mounting point. The leds are mounted on a vertical surface on star. The material underneath the star to the outer wall creates the thermal resistance. It's the cross sectional area of this plate, as well as the distance to the outer wall that determine the thermal resistance. Here thicker is better, no matter what, because it's less resistance. 

One to two mm of thickness doesn't sound like a lot to me, but maybe it's enough for this particular light running at this particular current. I sure hope they make it thicker for the triple.

I'm not trying to argue with you, I'm just remembering principles from the heat transfer class and decided to pass it on.

Looking forward to your further tests. No, I hadn't seen your long term tests, or maybe I just forgot.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya thicker is better, your very right there.

What I am trying to explain is have to take the heat dissipation needs versus weight and size restrictions of the light into account. Keeping down near limits where performance would be negatively effected is the way we have light weight but high output lights. 

You would be surprised how much beyond 1-2mm wall thickness would be needed to see more than a 1-2% gain in performance. Youd add 25-50g to a light before the added thickness provided any boost in performance. Surface area on the outside and how it transfers heat to the air would be much more worth it and much less of a weight penalty (if any).

Just look at computer heat sinks. Rather thin. But go after surface area that has access to direct air flow.

So ya your right, just over thinking the requirements of a couple LEDs.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Mole: If I understand you correctly, you wanted to know the percentage of lux lost from initial start to 30 second reading. X2 and XP2 were neck and neck. 0.4% better on the XP2. Duo wasnt too far behind at 30 second reading, only 0.6% behind X2. XP2 was a 4.8% lux loss at 30 seconds.
> 
> I matched optics in all 3 to make it as much "all else being equal" as possible. Surpisingly lumen ratings on this test at 30 seconds were within a few lumens of each other.
> 
> At one minute, the gap had grown a lot. Duo was at 10%, X2 was at 8.3%........XP2 was at 6.1%. XP2 was much more steady than the other 2 with the Duo leading the way in lux lost for the 5 minute test time.


Sorry if I wasn't clear on this. Looks like we got out wires crossed a little. What I was interested in was the difference in lumens between your 30 sec. posted results and what the lights had @ 15 min. Was interested in what their actual output was at normal operating temperatures and I figured 15 min. was more than enough time to fully warm up and stabilize. Luckily you checked the lights again @ 1 min. and I found those results far more telling that as I suspected the XP2 will compare far more favorably @ normal operating temps. or higher. Thanks for taking the time to run these tests and the driver info. Which optics did you use? Think I'm going to go ahead and place my order for one of these even though it may be a while till they get in.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, the only optics I had enough to do all the same, ituo/leddna optics.

If I go stop optics set up the duo would drop overall a bit more start to finish below the other 2 and x2 would as well do to 1 frosted optic. But I wanted them even.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Mole, the only optics I had enough to do all the same, ituo/leddna optics.
> 
> If I go stop optics set up the duo would drop overall a bit more start to finish below the other 2 and x2 would as well do to 1 frosted optic. But I wanted them even.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


You still run a frosted optic in you X2, I thought I taught you better than that! Ha Ha!
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Serious good review Tigress! With a more efficient output, should that translate into better run times for the xp2? One other thing, optics change for Ituo is really inexpensive comparatively....


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, I said "if" I ran stock optics, which x2 is a spot and a frosted.  But I actually don't mind the frosted compared to other options because spill is more useable. But the only spot optics are good in my opinion. Not a fan of the wide angle except for road use.

Dirt:. Other lights come with a 5200mah pack for the base kit and price. Xp2 is a 6400mah pack. So higher run time there too start. Then added a 0.3A lower draw vs X2 or 0.7A lower draw vs Duo on top of that.

If we went to full protection (which I have 6800mah pack to run test) cut off, I'd bet it'll push 4hrs run time. 2.5-3hrs before we would see noticeable loss in output (deregulation of the driver) where as duo and x2 on stock packs would be far less.

Other lights rate run time from fresh charge to protection cut off (ANSI FL-1 is from full charge start till output is down to only 10% of 30second output rating. Protection cuts off before 10% is ever reached). We dont have a "run time" spec for this light. They are waiting for my tests to confirm.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Oh forgot something:

Varider: heres the testing I was talking about that I do on lights. A lot havent been done beyond initial lumen tests (those graphs take a lot of time to do so right now just trying to do it for review brand name lights only till i have more free time). Have more data I want to add and the graphs I plan on adding the current draw to the graph as well. Allow people to see a graph version of how a light behaves over the course of its run time.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIkkiLjUk2daQW7-Kenhv8Nff8mIZ5B1HAPzWhPWXv4/edit#gid=0


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

OK, I ordered mine yesterday. Review looks very positive + stunned by the overall performance/intelligent design of my Wiz20 (this light makes me feel like I got a whole lot more than what I paid for!!!) knew I'd eventually order one, so why wait.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

100% good value in the wiz20. Now the xp2, gotta pay for technology. I'm waiting on the lighthead price b4 considering purchase.... Look forward to more info on the xp2 when ya get it mrmole!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> 100% good value in the wiz20. Now the xp2, gotta pay for technology. I'm waiting on the lighthead price b4 considering purchase.... Look forward to more info on the xp2 when ya get it mrmole!


Knew you'd be able to relate being one of the few others who own a Wiz20. Hard to generate a lot of excitement with a commuter light. Just look at the number of pages on other commuter oriented light threads (Gloworm CX, Fenix, or any of the light related threads in the "commuter section") and the Wiz20 thread is about 4x their size so it will be interesting to see how well the XP2 and XP3 do in sales and overall interest here. It should be a while before I get the light and will be hot here by then so you'll definitely get my 100° ride temp report.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> OK price info cam to me early and i was wrong, expected numbers i was given to be the highest. No they are "pre-order" sale price.
> 
> Kit price is 175.99 normally ($154.95 pre-order sale)
> 
> ...


Dirt, the light pricing was listed earlier in the thread, $119.95 normal, pre-order will be $99.95.

xp2 light head

Varider, here's a pic of the back of the light head with the remote plugged in










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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well, if I cancel my Yinding order from Gearbest, there's $25. I'm going to need a go pro mount $20, sh1t I'm halfway to an xp2 by my calculations. Red Yinding or for $50 more an xp2.....decisions/decisions!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well I own 2 yindings and this isnt quite as light weight. I do like my yindings, but they are what they are, cheap Chinese lights.

Xp2 puts out close to 600 more lumens than the yinding if that helps 

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> Well, if I cancel my Yinding order from Gearbest, there's $25. I'm going to need a go pro mount $20, sh1t I'm halfway to an xp2 by my calculations. Red Yinding or for $50 more an xp2.....decisions/decisions!


Good plan canceling the Yinding order. Definitely worth $25 but you've been spoiled by the top mode button (that happens to be the best I've ever used) of your current Ituo light and I'm sure you would have hated the back positioned one on the Yinding (tied with the Duo for the worst I've ever used). I'm betting (since I haven't gotten mine yet) that in the long run if you get a XP2 you'll be much happier with it over the Yinding. Ituo light = "Wow, this is a really nice light. How did they make this for such a reasonable price". Yinding = "Meh".
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I keep looking at how freakin thick the wiring is on the xp2. They could have used a lesser gauge, like everybody else, and still had a good light. It's really hard for me to ignore the quality of their products. Happy wiz20 owner/ trying not to be a xp2 owner!!! Preorder is imminent.....


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya they could have gone 20awg instead and still been perfect. A lot of lights are still stuck on 22awg, GW is the first I've had using 20awg.

The 18AWG will be good for triple/quad versions that have a higher current draw.

Only thing bugging me is i don't have a pack using 18awg wire to really test the voltage sag difference. Guess I'll have to wait till packs are ready for these.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok, gonna let this run while.i go to bed, should be done by the time I wake up 

This is what I go through to make the runtime output graphs. Let this sit and run, go through the camera (on time lapse photo mode) and manually enter in each data point.










Can't wait till I can afford a lux meter (and find one that's got an idiot proof set up) that I can just plug into my desktop and it enters/plots everything for me.

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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> Ya they could have gone 20awg instead and still been perfect. A lot of lights are still stuck on 22awg, GW is the first I've had using 20awg.
> 
> The 18AWG will be good for triple/quad versions that have a higher current draw.
> 
> Only thing bugging me is i don't have a pack using 18awg wire to really test the voltage sag difference. Guess I'll have to wait till packs are ready for these.


This can be calculated if you know the lenght and current used at the moment. If the length is not to long then I would say 20AWG should be sufficient There is far less difference in voltage sag between 20 and 18AWG than between 22 and 20AWG.

The connectors is next problem we should deal with at more powerfull lights. But this is problem when you have several lights and you want compatibility. At some point we should make a break and start with better connectors if we want to do step forward. It is essential to make something like XT30 or XT60 connectors on battery side and then use adapter for backward compatibility.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I have 2 pin connectors that use a very similar threaded nut design (may be the same just different plug style). Did pretty well in my first day project that was a 12.6v system pulling 3.5-4A.

The problem isn't just the connectors. DC style is what EVERYONE uses in one for or another. Which needs to change.

The big problem is that companies and people alike can't seem to get it through their head that the connector that connectors the battery to the light DOES NOT NEED TO BE WATER PROOF. 

Not a single reason for it. It doesn't effect anything ever. The pack itself and the light head itself can't have water get inside, that's it.

Get the world to see the truth on that point and suddenly we can move forward to the best connectors for heavy abuse but exceptionally low resistance. What we know in the states as "Dean's Connectors". Not water proof at all. But probably the lowest resistance connector in this small of a form factor there is.

And the funny part. Their used for all forms of RC. As well as tamiya, and traxxas has their own version of a Dean's connector that's larger. None are waterproof, but as long as pack and Electronics are waterproof. They can be submerged. I know because I have an older YouTube video I did of doing just that to a very expensive RC I used to own. Litterally drove it fully submerged through a creek.

If I ever decide to build a light using more than 4A, I plan to use them (I still have a bunch laying around from those days).

So there is a lot of options, just that the change has to be made to use better. But being better costs more, which is difficult these days. 

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's the lumen/run time graph for the xp2 using just a 5200mah pack (same pack as gloworm, Gemini, and Xeccon use)










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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> Oh forgot something:
> 
> Varider: heres the testing I was talking about that I do on lights.
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIkkiLjUk2daQW7-Kenhv8Nff8mIZ5B1HAPzWhPWXv4/edit#gid=0


Thanks for that chart. So this light is about 400 lumens brighter than the stock Yinding

That plug looks huge on the back of the light.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

varider said:


> Thanks for that chart.* So this light is about *_*400 lumens brighter than the stock Yinding*_


I think you were looking at the Wiz20 chart #'s (1399 lumens), the XP2 shows (1598 lumens) and Yinding (1022 lumens) so 576 difference.
Mole


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Yes, you're right, I confused those lights.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Something I forgot to post sooner:

In checking the cells used by Ituo I realized I had forgot I had plenty of those cells. Their the Red Panasonic/Sanyo 3350 cells. So update to capacity for their packs, 6700mah rating.

These cells actually have a slightly better voltage curve than standard ncr18650b green cells by about .1-.15v. They were the prerequisites to the NCR18650GA 3500mah.

That said, obviously I have a pack which I used overnight to run a cycle for graph. So even though I dont have an "Ituo" pack, the next graph I post is the same as their packs.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok here's the graphs for the Ituo pack and also a 2 cell 3500mah (NCR18650GA) pack. Gives a reference to those that want to know the runtime using a 2 cell pack on the helmet. Don't forget these are done running on high the entire time so runtime is drastically increased for those of us that change modes based on our speed/terrain.



















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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

i was thinkin that the full kit could actually be a better value in the long run due to the higher quality cells used. Like Tig said the 3200 panasonics are actually better than the ncr 18650b cells used in other packs that cost big$$$. so adding $54 on top of the lighthead price kinda makes sense and get the included charger as well. Run times are likely going to stomp any light in this class by a wide margin.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

All that, I'm waiting on the xp3. My wiz20 is badass. Redundant. Now xp3? I'm all in


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok dirt, here's something to put the whole matter into perspective. Ignoring everything about the lights besides the output and runtime:










Yeap I took my data for all 3 and put a single chart together (my light geekiness is coming out way to much since mother nature is being a biatch)

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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Plotting those three curves on the same graph implies that other things are held constant, e.g. the power source. Otherwise it's misleading. I highly doubt that the ITUO runs 50 minutes longer than the Glowworms on the same battery pack. I think you probably used a higher capacity pack for the ITUO test.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

That graph actually shows the runtime and performance of the lights with the standard issue battery packs they come with. So for what you get when you buy the whole kit for each light without upgrading (base priced kit), the xp2 does run a lot longer because of better batteries included.

Edit: Just realized GW comes with 5800mah pack so it would have ran a bit longer, more in the middle between the DUO and the XP2. Ill have to get some 2900mah cells to do the test again.

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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

I see what you mean. It makes sense from the perspective of a light buyer, as you can evaluate which light gives you a better value for your money. 

You could put "with stock batteries" in the title and put the capacity of the batteries in the legend or as a note somewhere. 

If you used the same battery for all three curves you could then directly compare the efficiency of the driver of each light. That's what I thought you were doing. My bad


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No I can do that later, just gotta run the xp2 on a 5200 pack.

I did that rather late last night so didn't think much about special notes.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok, here is the graph that shows driver efficiency. Since all 3 lights produce almost identical output at 30 seconds (<1% difference) just used identical 5200mah packs. The 5200mah pack used in first test for xp2 was a 26650 2cell pack, so runtime was slightly shorter due to how the protection boards are set and new cells. This was done using identical packs, used a few times each.










Also updated post above with correction to graph title so it says battery capacity for packs included with said light kits.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> All that, I'm waiting on the xp3. My wiz20 is badass. Redundant. Now xp3? I'm all in


As far as bike lights go "redundant" is my middle name. Use my 2-LED lights far more than any single (almost never) or any 3+ emitter lights that I own. Not saying I won't buy an XP3 too but have no issues with my XP2 purchase cause I know it will get used. Wish I had it now (about 3 more weeks)!!!
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok, weather looking good this week and trails around the area are in great shape. Be able to get out and give this light a good few rides at least.

Supposed to get pretty warm this weekend (for us at least) so it will give a good indication of how the light will do in warmer temps.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Ok, weather looking good this week and trails around the area are in great shape. Be able to get out and give this light a good few rides at least.
> 
> Supposed to get pretty warm this weekend (for us at least) so it will give a good indication of how the light will do in warmer temps.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Look forward to your next post here.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

OK got a ride in at local trail.... VERY NICE!!! I used WIZ20 with flood optics on the bars (60deg optics by rating) which that is my "perfection" in a bar light beam. Then the XP2 with 1 stock and 1 25deg (wide spot) optic. Should have gone both wide spot optics. But even then was an awesome ride!

Quick side note, riding my fat bike up there has really paid off except like yesturday when I was used to my 29er again and almost wrecked on the fatty more than once due to stiffer/slower steering response of the fat bike (big wheels/tires and more front weighted). Going to try a bit shorter stem and see if I can liven the front up a little. But because of it my speed out there has been increasing greatly on my 29er. That includes the climbing. Love the fatty, it serves a warm weather purpose too. Bringing the pain so my 29er feels like nothing under me when I ride it.

Anyway, will get video loaded when I get a chance. Previous review light is waiting on video to be loaded as well (im getting behind on getting videos uploaded, but editing is A LOT of work lol)

JUST KNOW THAT THE XP2 IS RIGHT UP THERE WITH GLOWORM AND GEMINI. Have to test the heat matter but when you combine everything, the XP2 comes out on top in one aspect that i noticed: NO ENTERING PROGRAMMING WHEN TRYING TO CYCLE MODES ON THE MOVE! I have to think when using my gloworm lights to slowly switch modes. The XP2 is like my other lights, just click however fast to the mode I need.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Aight here's a segment from the ride:






Posting from my phone so may not show as an embedded video. Couldnt find the part where I came up on a racoon and scared the crap outta him.

PS:. MR MOLE TAKE YOUR FLIPPING HEAT BACK, NOT SUPPOSED TO BE GETRING THIS HOT HERE TILL AUGUST, SUPPOSED TO BE CLOSE TO 100 HERE THIS WEEKEND ALREADY, I DONT WANT IT 
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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Looks like a smooth setup there Tigris. Did you get the xp2 to step down at all on your rides?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No because until starting today it's been in the low 60s at night. So even moving slow is enough to keep about any light head cool.

Going to be hot by this weekend though so I'll give it a run then and see what happens. But with it having active management, I won't notice it while riding unless I sit still for a while and let it get hot enough for full step down. That's the thing with active management, small decreases in output to try and maintain head temperature without going into a solid step down. Only at a max temperature will it take a full step down to protect itself.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Aight here's a segment from the ride:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I feel for you with that heat. I've not had time to acclimate to the super hot temps. we had here last weekend (115°) so I did early morning rides and I feel a lot better now plus the temps. have backed down almost 10°. I don't have to deal with your humidity though. Limits what you can do to stay cool. Here you can wet down your bandana/skull cap and it acts like a supercharged cooler, for you it just limits you body's ability to sweat out some heat. Frequent rest stops and cold water in your pack help to keep you comfortable and SAFE too. 2 frozen 16.9oz. water bottles fit great in a 100oz. Camelpack bladder (just pull them out of the freezer and cut the plastic off with a knife). If I think of anything else I'll add it later.

Thanks for the video. A little difficult to isolate the XP2 beam but does a good job of showing the effects of those flood optics. I see why you prefer floods over elliptical's. Your terrain is much more 3D than where I ride. Elevation changes here a more gradual and better suited to elliptical optics shallower vertical angles of coverage. Excited to get my light and hope the eta is still in a couple of weeks.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There is segments of the video where you get to see the spot of the xp2. But there's no difference in the beam pattern to any other light. Same as wiz20.

That's the thing with lights. If optics and emitters are the same, the beam is going to be the same regardless of who makes the light.

Ya the humidity here can be torture. A 2L pack and spare bottle last about an hour for me in the heat and humidity. I usually add ice to my water, never done the frozen thing and wait for it to thaw. I sweat so bad I have to drink every 10 minutes or so.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> Ya the humidity here can be torture. A 2L pack and spare bottle last about an hour for me in the heat and humidity. I usually add ice to my water, never done the frozen thing and wait for it to thaw. I sweat so bad I have to drink every 10 minutes or so.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


They're are just regular bottles of water frozen. My flatware knives have a small area of serration that cuts the thin plastic and it just peals off the frozen water like an egg shell. You need a wide mouth bladder opening but it ends up being 2 16.9oz. ice cubes. They last a lot longer than regular ice cubes. Either way your doing what you should and hydration with cold water. Stay "Cool" man.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Get lots of water and get out there. I want to see the xp2 solo beamshots asap! Joking I ain't riding til sept by the looks of things. In my thirties, I loved the heat. In my 40s, not so much.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I posted solo beam shots in the op's 

I did notice the video section I posted you can see the beam no problem at the very end.

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

** PRESS 3 seconds from ON position will turn the light off (it will go through the flash mode).** How do you find this in real live, certainly not my choice having a light flash before switching off


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Not my first choice in flash location in the UI but not a big hassle. The WIZ20 is this way too. Doesnt bother me but now that you make me think about it probably better if it went off then to flash mode.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Updated with pictures of the mounts and battery pack.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

As I wait for my XP2 to be delivered thing look better all the time. Things I gleaned off the XP3 thread: 1) Xeccon style battery bag a nice feature plus the higher voltage charger will be extra useful for some of my other batteries with high capacity cells. 2) Most useful accessory for me though will be the GoPro style helmet mount. Nearly all my lights have GoPro mounts on them and only work on my Bell-Super. Now I'll have the option of using different helmets and better yet not having to replace the GoPro mounts with o-ring mounts when I load out lights.
Very nicely equipped. Along with performance/quality extras like this really up its "Bang for the buck".
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Yep I'm with ya on bang for the buck MRMOLE. If I didn't have my wiz20, I'd be all over the xp2.... Still considering it but waiting on xp3 presale price!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> Yep I'm with ya on bang for the buck MRMOLE. If I didn't have my wiz20, I'd be all over the xp2.... Still considering it but waiting on xp3 presale price!


Even without any presale pricing I think the XP3 is probably a better buy so I can understand why you want to wait. For me the Wiz20 and XP2 are for different purposes. Sure the Wiz20 will handle trail riding just fine but for offroad I prefer a little less weight on the bars and at this power level the extra 200 lumens should provide a noticeable increase in throw. I also like having lots of choices to keep things interesting as I need to get some exercise every day (diabetic). Riding with different lights all the time helps me appreciate the really good ones more and in the case of something like the Yinding, reminds me that while there are better lights out there it get the job done just fine.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok got an update from Ituo, got a little bit longer to get in on the presale. Pushed back a little over a week, first week of July. Something about kit packaging meeting customs requirements for shipping Li-Ion batteries. 

Not bad for those on the fence, can get a good, full video done so you guys can really see how it does (and more time riding on the light in the heat)

Also an update, I put the wide optics in my xp2 and used it for my bar light with the xp3 on the lid. Yes I know I'm backwards from "the standard way" which is most output on the bars. But I found trails are more evenly lit from wheel on out as far as i need to see this way. Just the way I like things.

Was 82F and humid as hell. No step down or anything when ran at full power. Everything just worked awesome, no trying to avoid entering programming mode and really nice to be able to dial in my beam patterns exactly as I would like.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> Ok got an update from Ituo, got a little bit longer to get in on the presale. Pushed back a little over a week, first week of July.


Ouch!



> Also an update, I put the wide optics in my xp2 and used it for my bar light with the xp3 on the lid. Yes I know I'm backwards from "the standard way" which is most output on the bars. But I found trails are more evenly lit from wheel on out as far as i need to see this way. Just the way I like things.
> 
> Was 82F and humid as hell. No step down or anything when ran at full power. Everything just worked awesome, no trying to avoid entering programming mode and really nice to be able to dial in my beam patterns exactly as I would like.


Are you going to have any video using the wide optics? Since we agree that the wide-spot is about 15° what's your estimate on the wide optic's degree spread? Glad (but not surprised) to hear the XP2's handling the heat OK.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Bttr be no such delays with the xp3! Kidding, I'm still deciding which one to get. I do like the idea of running an xp2 on the helmet with my wiz20.... but the lumen junkie in me says xp3.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> Dirt Road said:
> 
> 
> > Bttr be no such delays with the xp3! Kidding, I'm still deciding which one to get. I do like the idea of running an xp2 on the helmet with my wiz20.... but *the lumen junkie in me says xp3.[/*QUOTE]
> ...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

^^^ x2 lol. I really dont need that many lumens, riding this and the xp3 the other night I was in medium the second half of the ride and was plenty for even the fastest part of the trail. But my medium is programmed 70% on both IIRC. So around 1100 on the wide beam and 1700 lumens on the lid. I was playing a lumen whore for a while and running both on high for almost 4000 lumens, but that was just too much light in such tight spaces. Will be fun when I get a chance to hit trails that are a bit more open (way less dew covered undergrowth, more fast flow mixed in) to blast these lights to see what they can really do on the trail. 

Speaking of, time to get off my ass and get the videos loaded to youtube....I hate doing it only because my internet is about useless during that time and 1080 HD video takes forever to upload


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

another delay on the xp2?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> another delay on the xp2?


Starting to look that way but Ituo could be boxing my light up and getting it ready to ship out for all I know. Was pretty sure I wouldn't have the light this weekend, just hope it arrives early enough to get it by the end of next week. Considering the problems were bureaucratic rules and regulations and not totally in Ituo's control I'll just have to hope their delivery estimates are fairly accurate. Excited to get my hands on the new light though!
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

:nono:As long as they get it together for the xp3 release, that's all that matters....


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> :nono:As long as they get it together for the xp3 release, that's all that matters....


Got a PM about my light. Should ship out first of the week so packaging situation solved and won't affect XP3 shipments. I've got some modification ideas for the XP2 first of which is a "Vancbiker mount" that should work for the XP3 also.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

:thumbsup:Great news. Full report wanted MRMOLE.


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> ......I've got some modification ideas for the XP2 first of which is a "Vancbiker mount" that should work for the XP3 also.
> Mole


I thought that the XP2 came with a GoPro compatible mount. Are you thinking a finned adapter?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> I thought that the XP2 came with a GoPro compatible mount. Are you thinking a finned adapter?


Yes, the finned adapter was what I was talking about. I consider it a necessary accessory for operating a small high powered light in the desert environment I live in. I anticipate the XP2 with its more efficient driver and slightly larger light-head to handle thermal issues better than its Duo/X2 competitors. With the addition of your finned GoPro mount I hope to be able to operate the XP2 on the warmest nights without any activation of the thermal protection mode like I could with my BT21.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

When you get it, send me some pictures of the mounting surface with the factory mount removed. Then I'll work up an idea of what I can do to mod the finned adapter to fit the light.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> When you get it, send me some pictures of the mounting surface with the factory mount removed. Then I'll work up an idea of what I can do to mod the finned adapter to fit the light.


Can do on the picture. I also have a XP3 ordered but lights not due in till the end of this month (est.). Hopefully the 2 & 3 will use the same mount so my plan is to send you one of the factory mounts to use as a template.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I will check mine and make sure mount is the same for both. I just can't remember if the xp3 uses 2 or 3 mounting screws.

Edit: yes both use 2x 2.5mm torx head screws to secure the head side of the slide lock that attaches the gopro adapter to the head.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> I will check mine and make sure mount is the same for both. I just can't remember if the xp3 uses 2 or 3 mounting screws.
> 
> Edit: yes both use 2x 2.5mm torx head screws to secure the head side of the slide lock that attaches the gopro adapter to the head.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Thanks! So the XP series only uses 2 torx screws instead of 3 that the Wiz20 uses which makes sense beause of the additional weight of the Wiz20. My question is are the slide locks the same (except the # of screws anchoring them) to where you could use a Wiz20 with a XP bar mount? I'd like to try the Wiz20 with a "Vancbiker GoPro bar mount" to get some horizontal adjustability but was thinking maybe the reason the mounts on the Wiz20 and all the other Ituo lights are different is because of the weight of the Wiz20 being too much for the thumbscrew interface area.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No the mounts aren't the same. I tried that and it can be made to work but it isn't the most secure in the slide and you'll have a hellva time getting the gopro adapter off.

The wiz20 is basically the only light that doesn't use that mounting set up.  Wiz1-2 and XP series all use it.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

XP2 is here! My mail doesn't arrive till around 3 pm and the battery took almost 6 hrs. to charge fully so only got a short ride in. Noticeably more punch than my Wiz20 but stock 10° optics narrower beam than the "wide spot" I run in the Wiz20 is not to my liking. I ordered a set of "wide spots" with the light so I'll be changing those tomorrow. Riding in the morning and again tomorrow night so I'll get a chance to try out the "wide spots" on a longer ride (expect 50 mi.) and should have more info. Sunday.

Remembered some people had issues with their Gloworm remote cables being to short so I took a pic. of remote cable length compared to my X2. Ituo button also has vastly better feel too.









Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Looks good MRMOLE!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> When you get it, send me some pictures of the mounting surface with the factory mount removed. Then I'll work up an idea of what I can do to mod the finned adapter to fit the light.











Of course it wouldn't be a flat surface. I put one of your standard finned mounts in there too to give you some more perspective. My thoughts are the LowPro design you make will work best with this light. The XP2 may run cooler than similar high powered lights this size and configuration but operating temps. are also closer to similar lights than to its sibling Wiz20. One of your finned mounts is a good idea for anyone using the XP2 in warmer temperatures IMO.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Got a longer ride on the XP2 last night. Cross town on the canals (51 mi.) but no trails. Good opportunity to familiarize myself with the light and evaluate the "wide spot optics" I put in earlier in the day. "Wide spot optics" worked similar to results observed with the Wiz20. Slightly wider (but very noticeable) beam pattern but more loss of throw compared to the Wiz20 (extra power of the XP2 allowed it to take better advantage of the 10° optics throw potential). Still for bar use I like the "wide spot" better but for helmet use or faster road rides I'd run the 10°.

I've also run some initial light-meter tests but won't publish any results till I get a full night to test all the comparison lights together plus there's still a few things I want to try with XP2 and different optics. Generalizations learned about light-meter results on the XP2 (10°) are: 20-25% lux advantage over the Wiz20 (bounce test & center-beam), 5-10% lux advantage over my X2/BT21 (bounce test), but trailed the X2/BT21 by approx. 10% on the center beam test.

Ease of use on this light is outstanding. Mode and remote buttons are a 1 finger operation with solid clicks and quality feel. Mounts are functional but least favorite feature of this (and Wiz20) light (no horizontal adjustment main complaint). Pretty impressed so far, more later.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> Of course it wouldn't be a flat surface. I put one of your standard finned mounts in there too to give you some more perspective. My thoughts are the LowPro design you make will work best with this light. ......One of your finned mounts is a good idea for anyone using the XP2 in warmer temperatures IMO.


Thanks for the picture! The LoPro adapter style will pretty much be necessary to use the dual mounting holes. It will need to have a raised area on the adapter similar to what the BT21 light needs. Also It looks like neither hole is centered on the radiused ends of the shallow groove. Makes measuring a little harder. If you would like an adapter for it would you be able to get measurements for me?


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Thx for the report MRMOLE. 51miles did the xp2 ever get hot enuff for step down?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Dirt Road said:


> Thx for the report MRMOLE. 51miles did the xp2 ever get hot enuff for step down?


No overheating issues but I ran it @ 50% power for 95% of the ride. Weather permitting, next Wed. I should get some trail riding in but hard to tell if you're activating thermal protection because of the linear step-down. When I do the indoor thermal tests I can keep a light meter on the light to monitor output along with heat.
My guess is that the XP2 will do better than the X2/BT21 but it's nowhere near as heat resistant as the Wiz20.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Thanks for the picture! The LoPro adapter style will pretty much be necessary to use the dual mounting holes. It will need to have a raised area on the adapter similar to what the BT21 light needs. Also It looks like neither hole is centered on the radiused ends of the shallow groove. Makes measuring a little harder. If you would like an adapter for it would you be able to get measurements for me?


I should be done evaluating this light by the time my XP3 comes in so should be able to send you the light-head. Hope the light/mount interface is more consistent than the Nitefighters were.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

MRMOLE said:


> I should be done evaluating this light by the time my XP3 comes in so should be able to send you the light-head.


Perfect!



MRMOLE said:


> Hope the light/mount interface is more consistent than the Nitefighters were.


Sure hope so. I believe that the inconsistency found in the BT21 and BT40S light bodies was kind of a forewarning of the variable component and assembly quality that occurred later. 
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Ituo GoPro style helmet mount.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya I really like the helmet mount. The Velcro straps are a pain for me though. I have a bell stoker and I don't have as many vents up there to easily get straps around. Though too I like my light towards the front just behind the visor.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

I got a couple of good single track rides in this week with the XP2 on the helmet. Paired with the BT40s earlier this week and the BT70 last night the XP2 worked excellent with both lights. Additional significance of helmet mount is that I usually run the lights on high and its been very hot (100+ ride temps.) and thankfully no thermal issues with any of these lights. XP2 has worked great so far. Complaints, none really. Areas that could be improved upon: 1) While the bar mount functions perfectly and is far better than a band mounting system it looks kind of cheap compared to the rest of the light (or a Gloworm mount), 2) remote button is positive and has better feel than the Gloworm counterpart but the fine gauge wire connecting it to the light--head looks very fragile (at least it's replaceable). In the end the fact that this light produced higher bounce test lux #'s than any of my other dual emitter lights far overshadows any rough edges. Good performance, good value, good light.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Optics combos for bar mounting XP2's*


Last Saturday I was doing some fairly high speed desert trails testing out the new Ituo lights (XP3/helmet, XP2/bar). Very happy with the XP3 (stock spot optics) but felt like I could make an improvement over the floods I was using in the XP2. Here's what I field tested and some light meter readings.

FIELD TESTS

XP2 w/Ituo flood/flood: Nice wide smooth even beam but not enough throw. Basically turned the XP2 into a $170 BT40s.

XP2 w/Ituo narrow spot/Gloworm XS wide angle: Much better for what I was looking for (more throw) but created a hot spot in the middle of the beam.

XP2 w/ Ituo wide spot/Gloworm XS wide angle: This is what I was looking for. Smoothed out beam a lot over the narrow spot, made the flood more effective and was easier on the eyes. Gonna stick with this one for awhile.


LIGHT-METER READFINGS

LUX:............................................B - test........Center beam (x100)
(XP2)

Ituo wide spot/GW XS wide angle.......173........................46.1

Ituo narrow spot/GW XS wide angle....174........................49.1

Ituo flood/flood................................156........................25.7
BT40s............................................139........................26.1

I used Gloworm wide angle's over the Ituo floods because they preserve more of the light intensity and minimize the hot spot effect when paired with either of the spots. Optics should have similar effects when used with the XP3.
Mole


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Good work mole. My dream team setup with the gw xs/ituo xp3 is way overkill for my type of riding. Bt40 and my xp3 will prolly hit a good balance. Or put floods across in my xs....
I know the xp series lights put out some major lumens. Good you could find the optics combo that works!


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Well that explains why I like my setup so much. Bt40s beam pattern with a bit more lumens behind it. Love the beam pattern of the bt40 myself, but you see what I ride. Much for throw on a bar light is pointless for my trails.

I know there is a 45deg and a 60deg version of the flood optics, though hell if I can see a difference prior to install. I have to put them on emitters to sort out which is which. The 45 still has a bit of a spot left to it, just rather large (more around 35deg I would say). So far I've only found one in my mess, I know I ordered 2 but can't find the other one.

I'm curious to see if the optics we all know and Ituo uses are available in various wide angle versions. I think something a fair bit taller than the gw optic might be more to my liking.

I am also considering trying wide angle optics in the wiz20, see how the hood effects it. Though a "cut off" to minimize blinding oncoming cars I care much less about after tonight. Has me considering putting my XS on my road bike..... Then when ppl yell at me I'll tell them to stop playing Pokémon and driving, I'll turn my lights down.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Hi, Just wanted to say that the ITUO Wiz-XP2 is now available in the UK. BrightBikeLights.com are the UK supplier - and stock is in the UK now. I see a lot of lights and in my opinion ITUO are by a long way the best up-coming supplier on the market.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

*Bar mount*



The Bar-mount has been my least favorite feature of my Ituo XP2/3. Main complaint was that on a couple of my bikes the light didn't aim straight and had no horizontal adjustment. After using the mount for a bit I found if you mounted the QR loosely, aimed it and then tightened it with the adjustment knob instead of the QR you could aim it where you wanted and it would stay in place. GREAT!, as long as your careful (see pics.).

























The excentrics lever on the QR rotates very stiffly and I think was pushing out instead of rotating putting extra pressure on and snapping the end off the mount. Learning from my mistake may save you a ruined ride. 
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Mole, they are already correcting the mount being able to break like that. My son broke one of mine in the same place.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

Well you can always use the bezel for your wiz20! Joking, the mount can be a pita in my experience as well.


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

*Mount for Wiz-XP2 and Wiz-XP3*

I believe I have found an excellent mount for the Wiz-XP2 and Wiz-XP3. It holds the light upside down and centrally on the bars, which works really well with the remote switch connected. It also doubles as a mount for a Garmin. Some photos attached ....


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

What mount is that?

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

*ITUO XP2 / XP3 mount*



tigris99 said:


> What mount is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


I do think this works really well - link below:

Mount - GoPro and Garmin compatible | Bright Bike Lights


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker Finned GoPro mount added! Keeps my XP2 cooler in the southwest desert I ride in and adds some visceral bling to the lights appearance. For the last week I've been using the XP2 on my helmet trying different lights on the bar to find a good combo. Wiz20, BT40s, BT70 all combo excellent with XP2. ***Last I checked the XP2 kits were on sale for $150, major bargain!***.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

Any opportunity to get temperature reduction measurements?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Any opportunity to get temperature reduction measurements?


Not on this light yet. I ran some tests with the XP3 though. 10-11 degrees but understating thermal benefits as high ambient temp. (85) and low thermal threshold (around 130) was activating the thermal protection on the light without the mount. Definitely should do the XP2 since it runs a bit cooler than the 3, should give a more accurate temp. spread. Welcome back!
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Vancbiker said:


> Any opportunity to get temperature reduction measurements?


10 degrees cooler on the XP2 with your mount(no thermal paste). Very similar to the XP3 results I got except the 2 ran 10 degrees cooler every where compared to the XP3. Thought it would be more but this is just not a hot running light so less benefit to be had.
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

MRMOLE said:


> The Bar-mount has been my least favorite feature of my Ituo XP2/3. Main complaint was that on a couple of my bikes the light didn't aim straight and had no horizontal adjustment. After using the mount for a bit I found if you mounted the QR loosely, aimed it and then tightened it with the adjustment knob instead of the QR you could aim it where you wanted and it would stay in place. GREAT!, as long as your careful (see pics.).
> 
> View attachment 1091543
> 
> ...


Got a replacement mount yesterday. It looks exactly the same but I understand it's made of a less brittle plastic + the excentrics/cam lever rotates much easier which should help too. Thanks Ituo!
Mole


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

I am curious what are the black dots I am seeing on the lenses? Is this just something that shows up in the pictures?


*****


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

scar said:


> I am curious what are the black dots I am seeing on the lenses? Is this just something that shows up in the pictures?
> 
> *****











It's the optic holder.
Mole


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## scar (Jun 2, 2005)

Okay, now I get it. Thanks!


***


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## michael9218 (Dec 17, 2006)

I just received a WIZ XP2. Initial impressions are that this is a quality light kit. I ordered the light with a wide spot and flood optic. Trails where I ride are tight treed singletrack. No need for spots. 

I rode with the lights for an hour and a half the other night. The light output is fantastic. I'm coming from a 900 lumen helmet light, so having the additional 600 lumens was certainly nice. The color is softer, which is better on the eyes. The pattern of the light was perfect. No noticeable bright spots, just broad defused light. 

I'm very happy with this light. My only recommendation would be for a flat battery pack that fits better in a Camelbak and to have the option for a smaller 2 cell battery pack.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

michael9218 said:


> I'm very happy with this light. My only recommendation would be for a flat battery pack that fits better in a Camelbak and to have the option for a smaller 2 cell battery pack.


I hear Ituo is working on a 6-cell and I'm sure would also do a 2-cell if there is enough demand. In the mean time even though the connector looks a little different (screw-on type) it will work with any battery with a MS style connector (MagicShine, Gloworm, Gemini, Xeccon, etc.) so there's several 2-cells currently available that will work for you. Congrats. on your ne light!
Mole


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## Brooks04 (Jun 1, 2004)

I wish for a 4-cell flat pack. Would fit better in a jersey pocket or Camelbak.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I just ordered an XP2 head, but had to order a 2-cell battery and charger from KD. I also ordered a Gopro headband from Gearbest, so I can use it for skiing and night running.
Kevin at ITUO mentioned they may offer a similar combo.


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## michael9218 (Dec 17, 2006)

MRMOLE said:


> I hear Ituo is working on a 6-cell and I'm sure would also do a 2-cell if there is enough demand. In the mean time even though the connector looks a little different (screw-on type) it will work with any battery with a MS style connector (MagicShine, Gloworm, Gemini, Xeccon, etc.) so there's several 2-cells currently available that will work for you. Congrats. on your ne light!
> Mole


I've built my own batteries in the past (NiMH) and have also bought generic batteries from Battery Space, but I am a bit confused on this one. Ituo states that their battery pack is 8.4v, yet all the available battery packs are 7.2v with a peak at 8.4v. Is this the same thing?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Lithium Ion battery packs are listed at max voltage, just always been that way for bike lights at least. No difference though, the same thing.

As for a 2 cell, been on them about it for a couple months, it's on the list I know. But 6 cell for the xp4 is up first. 

As for flat packs, their a great idea, just hard to execute at the moment. Those are a "custom" design idea so getting them made in a durable build isnt cheap compared to the standard brick.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


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## ledoman (Apr 17, 2012)

Brooks04 said:


> I wish for a 4-cell flat pack. Would fit better in a jersey pocket or Camelbak.


You might take a look at: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024761....18650B-Rechargeable-18650-Li-ion-Battery-Pack


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## atourgates (Sep 4, 2009)

*First Ride*

Just went on my first ride with the XP2. My only past experience is with Magicshine's OG "600 Lumen" light a few years ago.

I mounted one XP2 on my bars, and a second on my helmet.

The light is amazing. While these clearly put out more light than my old Magicshines, the most notable thing wasn't the amount of light, but the quality of the light. The XP2's illuminate the trail and terrain so much more clearly. With my Magicshines, I often felt like the terrain and details were washed out (and even had a couple wrecks I like to blame on that quality). With the XP2s, I feel like I can see the terrain so much better.

Here's a sample shot from my ride, that's pretty reflective of what I saw with the naked eye.









On a somewhat related side-note, if I happened to be an idiot who attached my lights to the quick-release mount backwards, any helpful tips for releasing them without breaking anything?


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Great to hear from you that the XP2 is getting the credit it deserves - as a fantastic light unit. Some time ago I sent in an XP2 and XP3 to SingleTrack (a respected mag and website based in the Northern UK) for review. Yesterday I learnt that the guys there have awarded the XP3 a coveted SingleTrack 'Recommended' award. They are still testing the XP2. These testers put products through their paces in horrible conditions for at least a month - I'm hugely pleased as I believe both the XP2 and XP2 are amazing lights.

Here is a link to the review of the XP3: Singletrack Magazine | Review: Ituo Wiz-XP3 Light

Not sure what you mean about attaching to the quick-release backwards. Please could you send more details - images ?. Don't force anything - hope I can help to sort it out.


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## atourgates (Sep 4, 2009)

*Backwards Quick Release*

Thanks!

What I mean is that I put my lights on the quick-release with the little toggle facing the back of the light, like so:









When I couldn't get it off, I went online and noticed that in all the other pictures, it's facing towards the front of the light. So I'm guessing I put it on backwards?

The mount will slide forward about 1/3 of the way off the mount, like this:









But won't go any further, no matter what I try (short of feeling like I'm going to force it and break something).

Any suggestions how I can get the mount off without breaking my light or mount?


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Yes - the tab should be at the front so it is on the wrong way. I will do some 'experimenting' tomorrow and get back. Hope you can wait - not worth forcing anything. I'll also pop an email to the manufacturer and see what they say - and let you know.


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## atourgates (Sep 4, 2009)

Thanks! I can definitely live with it if there's not a fix, but it'd be nice to figure out since it seems like these will last a long time.

EDIT: Figured it out!

There's a small metal pin that holds the quick-release lever. Push it out with something very small and round (I had a tiny drill-bit that did the trick, but a tiny allen-wrench or even a paper-clip could probably do the job), and you'll be able to slide off the quick-release mount, leaving the lever behind.









You can then re-assemble the quick-release lever. Lining up the pin and getting it back in there is a bit of a pain, but not too bad. I found some large needle-nosed pliers were pretty helpful.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

The "quality of the light" & "illuminating the trail better" mostly have to do with the neutral white tint. Cool white tints wash everything out like you say. 

-Garry


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Pushing the pin out works, but so does a tiny screw driver. I tested the clip design on a wiz20 and came apart without breaking it no problem. Trick is just keeping that latch released while you slide it off.

Putting them on backwards takes a good amount of force, if it's hard to try and get on you know it's going backwards.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## TrevorJackson (Sep 22, 2015)

Well done. I had a reply from the manufacturer which was - "press upward on the release button whilst trying to push out the light head. It's better to get some lubricating oil on the mount"


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

I have that battery pack for precisely that reason, works great!



ledoman said:


> You might take a look at: http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024761....18650B-Rechargeable-18650-Li-ion-Battery-Pack
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Did a club ride last Friday night with ITUO XP2 and XP3, I am very impressed with both lights, but I did expect this after all, I have been ridding for over a year with their WIZ20, so I am getting used to their products, I am used to ride with my Gloworm X2 as my helmet light and the ITUO XP2 is as good if not better, it certainly has some major plus on the Gloworm.






Last Friday ride with cycleseahaven, Sorry, I rigged the camera on my lid in the middle of the ride and got the angle wrong, I notice this later on and straighten it a little.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

The hot spot that you see in the filming is from my XP2, pointing a little low but is not noticeable to human eyes only the camera, the trail is just very bright (neutral white led, so no problem with having a lot of lights)


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I just ordered an XP2 head, but had to order a 2-cell battery and charger from KD. I also ordered a Gopro headband from Gearbest, so I can use it for skiing and night running.
> Kevin at ITUO mentioned they may offer a similar combo.


Got my light. As good as I'd hoped. Ran last night with it on a GoPro headband with a small battery. Thumbs up!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

It takes quite a lot of force to get it off even if it's on the right way. It's a very tight fit.



atourgates said:


> Thanks! I can definitely live with it if there's not a fix, but it'd be nice to figure out since it seems like these will last a long time.
> 
> EDIT: Figured it out!
> 
> ...


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Got a Yinding, 2015 model and never liked it, get very hot too quickly, if helmet mounted, the switch is very hard to find and not that bright either. Regarding the XP2 or similar lights, once You get one with a remote switch, there is no going back, so much easier to have the switch positioned on your helmet visor


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Ofroad'bent said:


> Got my light. As good as I'd hoped. Ran last night with it on a GoPro headband with a small battery. Thumbs up!


I may change to one wider optic- the stock light has a tight hotspot with a fairly sharp cutoff then a wide periphery. It would be good to have more peripheral light from the second beam if you're just using the 1 light.

PS- I think I realized that the "Kevin at ITUO" who answered my email query about headbands is in fact our Tigris.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

^ names Keith, not Kevin hehe 

But ya, just got around to changing things here so it was "common knowledge"

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> ^ names Keith, not Kevin hehe
> 
> But ya, just got around to changing things here so it was "common knowledge"
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


So, did I get the name wrong from ITUO- was it you?
I thought the paypal for ITUO had your address on it.
If so, it's great news.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

You just remembered my name wrong is all cause it's me. Well as long as your in the US anyway. If you dealt with our Canadian dealer then you may have the right name. 

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> You just remembered my name wrong is all cause it's me. Well as long as your in the US anyway. If you dealt with our Canadian dealer then you may have the right name.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Yep, it was you all right! It took me a while to put 2 and 2 together. Hey, as far as headbands, the one that Glowworm uses with a GoPro quick release is nicer to use than the standard one that's only screw-on. I got one from ActionLED who were fast and reasonable.

Gloworm Quick Release Head Strap ? Action-LED-Lights

I'll spec these for my multisport friends along with a 2-cell KD battery.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't like those style cause the clips break. Ive broken a few of the tabs (gopro and cheap ones alike) on the clips by using that instead of thumb screw. I used to use the adhesive one on top of my helmet for my light till the clips started breaking. Got tired of replacing them. Same on my chesty. So I just stick with leaving clips in or using the solid thumb screw style.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Yeah, I guess I've broken a clip or two as well. 
I was just thinking that in transition on a multi day race swapping with a clip is easier than fiddling with a screw, but I guess if the clip breaks you're in more trouble.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ya it's a personal preference matter but as I look at it is that get pissed cause that gopro plate breaks a clip and I'm all done if I out in the trail. Thumbscrew is slow but never broken anything by using them.

For me i always break stuff at the wrong damn time. So I have to try to avoid messing with anything when I'm on the trail.


Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

The main point to take away here is that if you are ordering from ITUO you're dealing with one of our own right here on the forum who is super-knowledgable, not some unknown from overseas.


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

Ofroad'bent said:


> The main point to take away here is that if you are ordering from ITUO you're dealing with one of our own right here on the forum who is super-knowledgable, not some unknown from overseas.


He is overseas to me as I live in the UK!


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

OverTheHill said:


> He is overseas to me as I live in the UK!


...but not unknown.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I wanted to change one of the optics in the XP2 to give a mix of flood and spot, but can't for the life of me find the right Torx wrench. Everything I have is too big, and none of the hexes fit.

Anybody know the specs on this one so I can order a wrench?


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## jsprag (Oct 17, 2016)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I wanted to change one of the optics in the XP2 to give a mix of flood and spot, but can't for the life of me find the right Torx wrench. Everything I have is too big, and none of the hexes fit.
> 
> Anybody know the specs on this one so I can order a wrench?


Torx T9 on the front and back screws. Haven't disassembled mine, so if there's something smaller on the inside then I don't have an answer for you.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

T9 torx.

Fyi you only need to take off the front cover to change optics (be careful of the seals).

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I bawt a torx set from wallyworld for about $10. I wouldn't trust em for heavy duty wrenching, but it works great for the optics swaps....


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

After a summer brake in MTB cycling, I have put a few MTB club rides with my XP2 and XP3 lights. The XP2 has now replaced my 1500 lumens Gloworm X2 on my lid and the XP3 is on my bar giving me a total of 3800 lumens to ride single tracks. This get pretty bright!!! I have not played around with the optics and I am using the standard kit straight from the box. I love them both so much that my Gloworm is now staying on my spare helmet and I only ride with the XPs. In the past I always thought that remote switch were a little gimmick, well this was untill I bought my GW X2 and realise how much convenient it was to have a switch at hand instead of fondling the top of your lid looking for that damn light and switch. The GW lead is good but the way it split in a Y shape with the battery lead do make it a little awkward, the Ituo solution of making the remote switch removable is so much better. The only thing which I am not that keen on, is the way that the light go via flash mode when you switch off. Certainly not a deal breaker, but for me, so annoying. I thought I left that behind with the cheap lights! Much prefer the way they did it on the WIZ 20 with going via a low output just before turning off. The way the inter phase is designed is good with the flash modes as hidden modes, but in reality they are not, as the dam thing do come on just before turn off! I think the easiest way for Ituo to rectify this would be to include with the flash modes, a low mode, so that riders could select this and the light on switch of would cycle via a low mode if wanted. Any one with me on this? I did some filming on my last club ride, so here it is, you will see what 3800 lumens look like, actually much too bright when riders are close as you will see.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Skyraider59 said:


> SNIP The only thing which I am not that keen on, is the way that the light go via flash mode when you switch off. Certainly not a deal breaker, but for me, so annoying. I thought I left that behind with the cheap lights! Much prefer the way they did it on the WIZ 20 with going via a low output just before turning off. The way the inter phase is designed is good with the flash modes as hidden modes, but in reality they are not, as the dam thing do come on just before turn off! I think the easiest way for Ituo to rectify this would be to include with the flash modes, a low mode, so that riders could select this and the light on switch of would cycle via a low mode if wanted. Any one with me on this?


I agree the flash sequence when shutting off is an annoyance. One more thing I'd like to see is the option to order a little Torx wrench and a wider optic. We can source them separately of course, but it would be a nice touch that doesn't cost much to add in.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The optics are available here in the US, don't think Canadian or UK dealers offer them though.

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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> The optics are available here in the US, don't think Canadian or UK dealers offer them though.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


It's not for me- I have a bucket-load of optics, but not everyone does and it's a pain to have to special order a tool and an optic. I know you can order a Glowworm with specific optics at a small up-charge.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Ofroad'bent said:


> It's not for me- I have a bucket-load of optics, but not everyone does and it's a pain to have to special order a tool and an optic. I know you can order a Glowworm with specific optics at a small up-charge.


Same option available from the Ituo US distributor. Only upcharge is the cost of the optic which is far less than the Gloworm optic.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

We do ship to Canada as well though import duties and shipping cost may not be ideal.

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## Blue66 (Sep 18, 2016)

For Europe – according to their Facebook page - „BrightBikeLight“ (UK) offers 40 degree optics for many Ituo lights recently. Too late for me, ordered a bunch of different optics from “leddna” nearly two weeks ago – they’ve left Hong Kong right now and are on the way.


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Guys, regarding the flash mode before turn off on the XP2 and XP3. I personally find this very annoying not a deal breaker, but just in real life cycling, I do not feel this to be user friendly.

Now this is my proposed solution to this: * I think an easy way of not having the light going into flash mode before turn off, would be to just add a super low, on the same platform as the flashes. That way the light could have the super low programed into flash mode platform so that when it turn off by the 3 second press, it will go into super low and off*.
Does anybody else like this idea or have another idea of what could be done.

I have already spoken to Ituo about this and they may or may not look into changing this in the future, I suppose , it really depends what the end users think! I know they do pay a lot of attention to our feedback. So what do you think?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The XP4 has a completely different set up (being its truly off road use only). May see the xp2 and 3 being updated for next season.

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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

Skyraider59 said:


> Guys, regarding the flash mode before turn off on the XP2 and XP3. I personally find this very annoying not a deal breaker, but just in real life cycling, I do not feel this to be user friendly.


I have an XP3 for a helmet light, I just unthread the connector and unplug the wire. Easily done with one hand.


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## arc (Sep 9, 2004)

tigris99 said:


> We do ship to Canada as well though import duties and shipping cost may not be ideal.


I lucked out with three separate orders making it through without taxes or duties. Shipping didn't seem too bad.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

May not be an issue via usps for shipping which is what we use. I've heard of ppl being concerned about it but this is the first thing I've heard whether or not its a problem.

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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

I have a Wiz20 and I really like the interface on that, especially the alternative twin or triple modes. One of the things that has put me off buying an XP2/3 is the different interface on those lights.

I can't understand why a manufacturer like Ituo would implement different interfaces on all their lights. Surely they realise that customers would want to buy more than one light from their range and a consistant interface would be desirable?

If they implemented the Wiz20 interface on the XP2 I would definitely be in the market for one.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

MRMOLE said:


> Same option available from the Ituo US distributor. Only upcharge is the cost of the optic which is far less than the Gloworm optic.
> Mole


Maybe I missed that. Sounds like it's covered. I've got some torx tools on order, and will play with the optics.


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## Rockhucker (Aug 1, 2010)

OverTheHill said:


> I have a Wiz20 and I really like the interface on that, especially the alternative twin or triple modes. One of the things that has put me off buying an XP2/3 is the different interface on those lights.
> 
> I can't understand why a manufacturer like Ituo would implement different interfaces on all their lights. Surely they realise that customers would want to buy more than one light from their range and a consistant interface would be desirable?
> 
> If they implemented the Wiz20 interface on the XP2 I would definitely be in the market for one.


I own the xp3 and while I do find the off sequence a little funky compared to my other lights(glowworm xs, Dinotte xml-3), the light output and killer price more than makes up for the 4 seconds of weirdness that I deal with once at the end of my ride.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

OverTheHill said:


> If they implemented the Wiz20 interface on the XP2 I would definitely be in the market for one.


Hope this is implemented in the next gen. XP2/3. Would be a nice upgrade!
Mole


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Rockhucker said:


> I own the xp3 and while I do find the off sequence a little funky compared to my other lights(glowworm xs, Dinotte xml-3), the light output and killer price more than makes up for the 4 seconds of weirdness that I deal with once at the end of my ride.


Agreed, all us XP owners like to whine :cryin: about this but I've yet to see anyone say they're getting rid of their lights over it. Excellent light with one annoying feature that doesn't seem to be hurting XP2/3 sales any.
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

The reason the xp series doesn't have that firmware is because of its complexity. The extra functions for a completely different, secondary UI has been replaced by the real time active thermal management.

UI program is just that, a computer program basically. The chipsets have limited space for code, so it limits what can be done without and expensive chip upgrade and complete driver overhaul. Something I've come to learn in having a custom set of drivers made by mtnelectronics. The more stuff you want crammed in the firmware, the faster the chip cost goes nuts when you want to keep it small enough for a small led driver. I had to limit my wish list on the custom drivers cause cost would have almost doubled to make it happen in the size I needed.

The delay to off is annoying and we will likely see that fixed by next season hopefully.

All that said, we know how tech advances, who knows where things will end up over coming seasons. Bike tech doesn't really advance, electronics it seems in a year or 2 things can become totally obsolete.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There are extension cables finally! About 2ft long still the 18awg cable too.

https://www.ituolights.com/collections/parts-accessories

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

tigris99 said:


> There are extension cables finally! About 2ft long still the 18awg cable too.
> 
> https://www.ituolights.com/collections/parts-accessories
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


Thanks for updating us on this. Also saw on the website that higher capacity 4 cell battery (6800) and *"new 2 cell batteries now available"*! Any other upgrades on the XP series lights?
Mole


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Nope, I sourced those myself with Ituo connectors to see if enough people want them before ituo invests in making full production runs.

So we know without a doubt the specs because I confirmed/tested every detail inside and out.

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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's something for those that have been waiting for a sale to grab a light (or set of them). Ya shameless plug but everyone likes good deals so:

https://www.ituolights.com/collecti...men-neutral-white-led-mountain-bike-light-kit

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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

MRMOLE said:


> Thanks for updating us on this. Also saw on the website that higher capacity 4 cell battery (6800) and *"new 2 cell batteries now available"*! Any other upgrades on the XP series lights?
> Mole


Great, you ticked off all the boxes for a good multisport light.

I posted a link to it on my orienteering and adventure racing forums.

Good headand, 2-cell battery, can mix up optics...
One thing I'm not seeing yet- did you mod the headband so you can attach the 2-cell battery pack to the back? That would be good for DIY-incompetent folks.
The KD-style frame bag doesn't attach easily.

I just add some Velcro 1-wrap threaded through the back, with some velcro bonded to the battery casing as well.
You can also use a velcro pump-strap type with the snag-free one-sided velcro.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Head bands are straight gopro style headbands. The only thing I "mod" is the 2 cell packs is I put Ituo connectors on (which allowed me to double check all work because we had problems with some of the 6400mah 4 cell packs, the strips going to protectuon circuit from the cells had bad connections, much of the reason for the pack upgrade)

Edit: 2 cell packs come with a pouch, haven't tried it but should attach to head strap without too much issue. I am gathering the pouch with them is the same as the kd ones though. Like I said, it's something I put together with limited resources right now. But if there is enough demand Ituo will follow suit and make a production set up that's much more "everyone" compatible,

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

I am in the UK as well, and Ituo also have a distributor here, you can google them. Great light


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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

Went out this evening for some forest single track, did not bother to put my head cam on today to save weight on my lid as I decided to try a set up that quite a few of you use. I swapped my lights around and fitted the XP3 on my helmet and the XP2 on my bar. I did not think I would like it so much! Having 2300 lumens on your lid is just what I needed this evening. The trails are covered with dead leaves and pretty hard to follow.


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## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

Sorry if I missed it, but is there a coupon code for MTBR?


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

No there isn't any special mtbr codes (only ever see those for group buys of cheap Chinese stuff), there is a coupon code on the website though 

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## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

tigris99 said:


> No there isn't any special mtbr codes (only ever see those for group buys of cheap Chinese stuff), there is a coupon code on the website though
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


Ok, I'll check it out. By the way, I've seen several of your posts that knock other brands/makes. I'm sure you've got a solid product. No need to knock others. It gives me a bad taste in my mouth and actually forms a sense of distrust when I see companies doing that. Just highlight some features and let the products do the selling.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Your right I do need to chill on that lol. I forget I'm Ituo not "tigris99" anymore. It has nothing to do with Ituo vs others. My opinions on other brands were long before that as I did reviews for many companies, some I bought myself. I give credit where it is due regardless. 

But I don't care for brands like niterider and cygolight because their really outdated and not paying attention to the change in the market. Still old designs, not much ever gained. Like simply adding a boost mode and calling a light "950 boost". But bother wise still the same old lumina series light. Or magicshine that is only marginally better than cheap China stuff. But still their better end lights are a premium price.

But then you get brands like Glowworm, Lupine (which is think is overly expensive but nice lights), Gemini (except a couple draw backs their still good for the money) as brands that actually care about what riders actually need and want. (This includes Ituo of course)

Then guys like Trailled and scar's amoeba lights that are homegrown and made by guys like us.

Aka good lights worth buying

But new ppl here don't see who I am and my past here before ituo, a point I gotta remember these days. I'm not Ituo only affiliated with now. I just put a lot of effort and resources into getting them into the US so everyone has actual access to good lights with support to back them up.

Figured I would explain my deal here so you didn't think I was just some company idiot trying to cram only ituo down everyone's throat. But your 100% right, being affiliated with Ituo its not a good idea to share my personal opinions and experience regarding lights on here anymore.

Edit:. That's one thing I didn't take into account..... Can't be my light geek self on here anymore since becoming affiliated with Ituo.... 

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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

tigris99 said:


> Your right I do need to chill on that lol. I forget I'm Ituo not "tigris99" anymore. It has nothing to do with Ituo vs others. My opinions on other brands were long before that as I did reviews for many companies, some I bought myself. I give credit where it is due regardless.
> 
> But I don't care for brands like niterider and cygolight because their really outdated and not paying attention to the change in the market. Still old designs, not much ever gained. Like simply adding a boost mode and calling a light "950 boost". But bother wise still the same old lumina series light. Or magicshine that is only marginally better than cheap China stuff. But still their better end lights are a premium price.
> 
> ...


I agree about the boost mode. I have a 750 boost, it's an ok light, decent throw, but you get the 750 lumens at expense of battery life, for the same price an older regular 750 would probably be better at an hour and a half at max rather than 40 minutes (each claimed). But yes the old school brands are overpriced for what you get, but I like cool white.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ah I gather youve ridden neutral white lights? 

Though during this time of year is matters a lot less and neutral white does take some getting used to for some. Definitely a personal preference above all else there.

Ituo had done a cool white version of the wiz20 briefly but only sold one the entire time so did away with it and stayed neutral white only instead of both options.

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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

tigris99 said:


> Ah I gather youve ridden neutral white lights?
> 
> Though during this time of year is matters a lot less and neutral white does take some getting used to for some. Definitely a personal preference above all else there.
> 
> ...


No I havent but I'm not fond of incandescent colored light. Seen enough of that growing up with rayovac flashlights that wouldnt light up the bathroom well enough to hit the toilet. Sorry to be harsh but as you said, personal preferrence, I happen to live in an area that even riding a bicycle anywhere near roads is not terribly safe, so the harsh light sometimes is a godsend. Nor does it bother my eyes. Yes I am knocking neutral white(for my purposes), if people like it, sweet. Never tried it, but seen plenty of pics/video.

And honestly I have a bunch of cool whites already, kinda dedicated now lol.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

You know those cheap flashlights then and bike lights now are a big difference . Many vids like mine it's just tough at best to get the camera to see what we do. 

But plenty are Ok the cool whites. I hate cars that have them cause it makes driving at night miserable for me till I get away from them. Nw emitters is how I was finally able to night ride.

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## indebt (Nov 8, 2009)

Isn't the Kelvin on old incandescent lights more like 3000K? Where most of the (neutral tint) lights these days are in the 4700/5000K range. Far from yellow IMO. I had the same opinion as you Staypuft 1652 for years thinking light is light, but with the huge outputs i'm running now found there was eye strain due to lots of reflective glare. Changed led boards to 4900K,,,, their not yellow at all but just soft enough to improve trail detail and calm my eyes down. I think neutral tint is more mainstream due to the huge output on the lights these days where cool white can be overpowering. Just a couple years ago a 1000 lumens was considered high output,,, not anymore. Back then it was understandable for company's using the cooler leds to squeeze as much ligh as possible when outputs drivers and led efficiency were not as good as they are now. 

All that been said,,,, yes it is subjective


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

On videos it takes some knowledge of settings (which I'm learning) so the lights don't appear yellow and appear like what we see. But even I can notice a tad of yellowish to the neutral white.

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## indebt (Nov 8, 2009)

I forget what thread it was where i posted before and after photos when i changed my led boards,, most likely a Lupine thread. But when looking at the cool and neutral tint photos side by side only then i could see i guess a bit of yellow in comparison. Out on the trails no yellow perspective as in my case the cooler leds were 6000K vs 4900K so not a huge gap.

Same as looking at it the other way,,, didn't realize how much the cool tint leds looked like they had more blue in them till compared with the new boards. In the end its to some degree how we perceive and it will be different for each individual.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Neutral white emitter tints are a hard sell to those who are not open to the concept. Personally don't think you'll ever convince anyone with beam shots or side by side comparisons because they can't show the physical advantages of how your eyes (pupil dilation) react to the lower kelvin light of NW emitters (or disadvantages of cool white). Saddle time with a NW light is the only way to truly appreciate this IMO. That being said, till the whole world converts to NW there are still times when I prefer CW, just not very often.
mole


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## indebt (Nov 8, 2009)

beam shots will show contrast which is effective in that regard and have some purpose for those not familiar with the difference and want a quick example. But i do agree,,,, once i was out on the trails and saw what my eyes picked up it was just easier computing the terrain having all the light i could want and range without the glare. i just picked things up with less effort if that makes sense. The 4900K tint for me is perfect, i too dont want a 3000K yellow tint or whatever the old incendescent bulbs were.


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## OverTheHill (Dec 3, 2004)

I didn't appreciate NW tint for a number of years buying cheap lights and building many of my own. Then I bought a Wiz20 which only came in NW and it wasn't until I was riding with a friend using CW lights that I could really see the difference.

You need to compare NW and CW side-by-side on a leafy trail to really appreciate the difference. Beam shots and people telling you NW is better just doesn't cut it. It's all about the reflected light and the effect on your eyes.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I have a question about the low voltage cut-off.

I was running home last night and the light suddenly shut off with no warning. I suspect the battery got below the protection threshold on the battery pack before triggering a low voltage warning on the light. It was about 0 celsius out.
There may have been a change in tint on the switch LED, but it's not visible when the light is on your noggin.

It's not an ITUO battery, it's a smaller LiPO with protection from Hunk Lee that I use for my commute. I am guessing it may have a higher cut-off than the light. This is the first time I have run the XP light out of charge.

I always carry a small backup light and also a tiny spare LiPO battery, so no big problem to get home but it could have been worse on the bike at speed.

Tigris, can you remind me what the light does as voltage gets low using the provided battery? Does it drop down, flash or some other change in the beam?

I may just need to use a different battery pack with a lower cut-off, unless there is a way to program the voltage threshold for the light.


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## Dirt Road (Feb 6, 2016)

I've had good success using my 2cell KD pack with the xp3. No problems with runtime on low/med and light use of high mode. I am usually done after 1-2hrs tho.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Dirt Road said:


> I've had good success using my 2cell KD pack with the xp3. No problems with runtime on low/med and light use of high mode. I am usually done after 1-2hrs tho.


I have those packs too, but never ran it down to the warning so I'm not sure what the light does. I only use lower levels for running, and get a week's commuting out of a single charge. I have a different battery and light on my helmet for the biking days.


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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Staypuft1652 said:


> Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.


No worries, it's pretty hard to look at two lights and accept that the one that looks dimmer will help you see better till you prove it to yourself. I still remember looking at the Nitefighter lights thinking "too bad they only come in NW" and now the last 10 lights I've bought use the NW emitters and the last 3 are Ituo's. I'm sure most of us here have similar stories.
Mole


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## indebt (Nov 8, 2009)

Staypuft1652 said:


> Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.


 You werent been disrespectful, just giving your opinion, no worries there. Like i mentioned i wouldnt want to ride with a yellow light that had the same tint as my halogen head lights somewhere in the 3000K.


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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

Yes honestly, I have been at times really interested in some of the fenix lights, but didnt care for the tint. No doubt it does allow better vision of details with less glare etc.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Ofroad'bent said:


> I have a question about the low voltage cut-off.
> 
> I was running home last night and the light suddenly shut off with no warning. I suspect the battery got below the protection threshold on the battery pack before triggering a low voltage warning on the light. It was about 0 celsius out.
> There may have been a change in tint on the switch LED, but it's not visible when the light is on your noggin.
> ...


That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.

As for the Fenix lights thing, those ARE NOT the same. They claim neutral white but their not, their warm white. Like incandescent bulbs type color. Neutral white is slight yellow but nothing like Fenix lights.

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## Staypuft1652 (Oct 8, 2016)

tigris99 said:


> That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.
> 
> As for the Fenix lights thing, those ARE NOT the same. They claim neutral white but their not, their warm white. Like incandescent bulbs type color. Neutral white is slight yellow but nothing like Fenix lights.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


That makes sense now, cool. Thanks for clearing that up. That color was quite yellow. Anyway I will stop derailing this thread, thanks for the patience.


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

tigris99 said:


> That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


I thought the protection would shut off before that, but maybe not. That battery may be in trouble.

Back to the main question- What does the light do when voltage is low? How does it warn the user? I assume it doesn't just suddenly die.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

Most lights rely on the pack protection cut off, and li-ion packs are designed to be able to drop to 2.5V per cell as thats max safe discharge (under load). The Ituo packs cut off higher than that, I forget the exact voltage, think it's just under 6V.

As for the warnings on the light, thats all in the manual. The indicator light on the button goes red at 20%. About the same time the other "indication" the battery is getting low is shown. The light drops regulation and just starts getting dimmer.

The problem with running a lipo pack is that the indicator isn't calibrated for a lipo discharge curve (much different than a Li-ion cell) and by the time you get a warning there is a chance you've already over discharged a lipo pack because they run a pretty solid voltage till "dead" at which point voltage tanks.

That's the problem with trying to use battery chemistries other the Li-ion with lights not designed for them unless your pack has its own protect (which should be done for this use) Each chemistry acts very differently. Lights can only be calibrated for their designed batteries. So using other chemistry batteries you have to monitor everything on your own and not rely on the light.

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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Gotcha. Use LiPo at own risk, use Li-ion when it counts.



tigris99 said:


> Most lights rely on the pack protection cut off, and li-ion packs are designed to be able to drop to 2.5V per cell as thats max safe discharge (under load). The Ituo packs cut off higher than that, I forget the exact voltage, think it's just under 6V.
> 
> As for the warnings on the light, thats all in the manual. The indicator light on the button goes red at 20%. About the same time the other "indication" the battery is getting low is shown. The light drops regulation and just starts getting dimmer.
> 
> ...


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I see you now have a headlamp kit. Nice!
You have run times posted for default settigns. What % are the default brightness settings? I have a champion ultramarathon runner who wants a set for a 4-day race, and need to program it for some serious burn times.

I'll probably do 10%,20%,40% for her. She needs 12 hours per battery pack, but doesn't need tons of lumens.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.

So the default settings and everything is the exact same as the other xp2 kit.

For a 12hr run time out of a single pack (while running really low settings) your going to be much better off just getting the regular kit and buying the head strap. A lot easier to get 12hrs out of a 4 cell then try to squeeze it out of a little 2 cell (which probably won't happen unless you left it at 10% the entire time)

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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

Yeah, I got that it's the same light with 2-cell battery and headband.
Can you answer the question about the default settings on the light please? My guess is 20%,50%,100%.

I've gotten all-night burns on 2-cell packs in ultras and adventure races. I just want to know the default % as they have stated burn times for them.



tigris99 said:


> There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.
> 
> So the default settings and everything is the exact same as the other xp2 kit.
> 
> ...


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't know if low is 10 or 20, I don't remember (I thought it was in the manual) but it's 50% and 100% beyond that. Was posted in previous posts about a week ago on this thread so I figured you knew, sorry

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## Skyraider59 (Jan 17, 2013)

New ITUO XP2 review on MTBR
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/user-review-ituo-wiz-xp2-1500-lumens-bike-light-1030042.html


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## xcandrew (Dec 30, 2007)

tigris99 said:


> There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.


The driver on my Duo has been failing, so this was looking like a good replacement for use on a headstrap for running/skiing/night-O.

I see you don't have photos yet. Did you shorten the power cord coming out of the lighthead for the headstrap version? A concern for headstrap use is that the cords on the lighthead and battery be short enough that you could just hook them together and have a clean line from the lighthead to the battery when the battery is attached to the headstrap at the back (like the Duo). It looks like with your exisiting lighthead, you'd have a long power cord that has to bundled up, which would be a no-go for battery on headstrap use - too unwieldy, snag potential, and bounce/flapping around when running unless you run it down to battery on your body.

Also, if you haven't yet, you'll need to provide an easy way to attach the 2 cell battery to the back of the headstrap.

One annoyance that I have had with my Geminis, and one that this has too is that a long press of about 2 seconds is needed to turn it off. Maybe other people don't mind, because this is probably in a lot of lights. I do like the single click to change brightness, but wouldn't a press of, say a 1/2 second be distinguishable from a click? That would be much nicer than holding the button for 2 seconds.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I don't design these or anything. I just sourced a head strap and a good 2 cell pack for the people that asked about it. Main office won't be looking to make extremely drastic changes to accomplish all this for a headlamp for some time.

The battery cable being loose is something that can be fixed with a small piece of Velcro. Its not something I can fix on my end (too much work to redesign cable lengths and everything here) So it was done with a piece of Velcro since the headband has a top strap. For now.

As for the turning off thing, pretty much all lights you have to press and hold to turn off. A short delay like your asking will cause a lot of issues with people accidently turning lights off instead of cycling modes. That's something that you won't see changed for any light of this kind. Too dangerous.

Do appreciate the feedback and there is some improvements that can come when the main office is ready to make a pure headlamp only version but the push and hold for off thing is one that can't be done without a separate power switch.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I've been using mine for running for quite a while, and now flr xc skiing.

I would say that all of these are valid points. 
I have the cord wrapped up in Velcro, but shorter would be better. I also improvised a way to attach a battery pack to the back of the head strap. 
I often end up unplugging the battery, because the "off" flash sequence messes up your night vision before going dark.

Still my favourite running light.



xcandrew said:


> The driver on my Duo has been failing, so this was looking like a good replacement for use on a headstrap for running/skiing/night-O.
> 
> I see you don't have photos yet. Did you shorten the power cord coming out of the lighthead for the headstrap version? A concern for headstrap use is that the cords on the lighthead and battery be short enough that you could just hook them together and have a clean line from the lighthead to the battery when the battery is attached to the headstrap at the back (like the Duo). It looks like with your exisiting lighthead, you'd have a long power cord that has to bundled up, which would be a no-go for battery on headstrap use - too unwieldy, snag potential, and bounce/flapping around when running unless you run it down to battery on your body.
> 
> ...


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## stremf (Dec 7, 2012)

XP2 is my first proper light. I've only used a Lezyne 600 lumen light, so any light of this caliber would probably be good, but I am super happy with the XP2. I can actually see well enough to ride trails at speed. tigris99 has been super responsive as well, so kudos to him for customer support. I've got the battery pack mounted just behind the stem on the top tube, but it brushes my leg when I'm out of the saddle pedaling. I may move it way back toward the seat post. Good thing the cord is long enough.


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## tigris99 (Aug 26, 2012)

I put my pack at the top of my down tube so it's out of the way. In the fat bike it goes down where the cage mounts are on the down tube (have a small frame bag in the front part of the triangle). Works good for me so far as I hat trying to route a cable all the way back towards the seat tube.

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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

So I just got my second ride in with my xp2. I'm loving the light although it does have some weird things with it that I'm not sure are normal. More on that later when I post a review...

For now I broke the plastic handlebar mount that came with the light. So I need to get something to replace it. I'm really not a fan of the oem ituo light mount and I know that if I get another one I'm just going to end up breaking it. 

Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

VancBiker's aluminum Gopro mount with heat sink fins. Done.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Check out post 92 or 94 in this thread. Vancbiker contact links @ bottom of post.

Here's the "Vancbiker" setup on an XP3 (same mounts)


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a XP2 after losing my prior light on a trip. Now a couple of questions:

1) What optics does it come with as standard (I wasn't able to figure that out). I plan to run this on my bars a like a wide of flood spread (I'm not sure the right term). What's the difference between the flood, narrow spot and wide spot lens?

2) I'm thinking of getting one of those mounts that has a GoPro mount beneath and a Garmin above. It's okay to run this upside down, right?

3) Though I plan to get the kit with the battery, I would also like to get an extension cord and use that to splice an adapter cable between a Cygolite 4-cell 7.6V pack I have that is in great condition and the threaded MS connector on the XP2 to use as a backup. Will this work?

Thanks.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Doesn't hurt them at all to run upside down. Nothing to worry about there.

As for the other pack, it's hard to say since it's a 7.6V pack. XP series runs on a 8.4V battery pack. Would probably "function" for a short time till that pack dropped below 5V at which time the light will shut off.

Oh as for the optic. Wide spot and narrow are both a narrow hot spot but the wide spot has a much smoother transition to the spill versus the narrow spot has a very strong hot spot.

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I ended up placing the order with the flood and wide-spot. 

I also ordered and extra extension cable so I can try to slice an adapter cable (using one end of a Cygolite extension and the other end of a Ituo extension). I see that the Panasonic NCR18650B spec'd in the Ituo battery has a charging voltage of 4.2V (hence the 8.4 for Ituo spec) but a nominal voltage of 3.6 (7.2V). As the Cygolite battery is spec'd somewhere in the middle but should be essentially similar cells I'm hoping it's just the the way the volts are calculated. Anyway, we'll see when I try it. So far it's a $8 experiment for the extension cable...


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## Ofroad'bent (Jul 10, 2010)

I think you'll be happy with 1 wide and 1 spot, in neutral white.
I ended upgrading to a vancbiker aluminum finned mount on mine, but the stock mount isn't bad at all.

You may be surprised how long the 7.6v battery runs.



TheNormsk said:


> I ended up placing the order with the flood and wide-spot.
> 
> I also ordered and extra extension cable so I can try to slice an adapter cable (using one end of a Cygolite extension and the other end of a Ituo extension). I see that the Panasonic NCR18650B spec'd in the Ituo battery has a charging voltage of 4.2V (hence the 8.4 for Ituo spec) but a nominal voltage of 3.6 (7.2V). As the Cygolite battery is spec'd somewhere in the middle but should be essentially similar cells I'm hoping it's just the the way the volts are calculated. Anyway, we'll see when I try it. So far it's a $8 experiment for the extension cable...


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Used this battery and a couple of Gemini 5200 4 cells for several years with various Gemini, Gloworm, Xeccon, and MS lights with no issues. Took them out of service about a yr. ago so didn't use them with the Ituo lights but it's a risk I'd take rather than throwing away a perfectly good battery. Please let us know how it works.









If you're not satisfied with the results you get from the optics you ordered this is what I use for bar application (Gloworm XS wide angle - elliptical optic). They don't rate the angle spread but my guess would be 10-15 degrees vertical and 20-25 degrees horizontal. Minimizes the intensity loss and foreground glare you get with a typical symmetrical wide angle optic. More expensive but works for me and the terrain I ride in (+ paved riding too).
Mole


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Well I got my XP2 lights today. I haven't gone for a ride yet but in the garage it blew my old MityCross 480 away (even on its low setting). I can tell straight off that the beam pattern and color is very nice. 

I wasn't totally convinced on the rubbery battery as I've had hard shell batteries for years but it seams to work pretty well. I just hope the neoprene case holds up. 

I've found the remote switch a bit non responsive at times and at others I've doubled pressed and gone into programming mode (often as it didn't respond straight away on first click). I'm hoping that's not an issue and is a learning curve. 

I was going to compare the light to my MityCross 800 but I think I killed it when I accidentally plugged the wrong battery into it. Now I'm wishing I bought a combo deal (and of course the price has gone up since I bought)......


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Actually not more expensive. I placed another order for a second set of XP2. I don't need the power of the XP3 and I like the longer run times of these. I'll have a XP2 (with flood and wide-spot on the bars) and a XP2 with narrow-spot and wide-spot on my helmet. I'm looking forward to having a balanced pair of lights and around 3000 lumens on full burn. 

I'll have to put a dab of paint or something on the lights so I can tell each one from the other  I also may be ordering a couple of VancBiker's AL mounts in the future. The bar light is mounted on a combo Garmin/GoPro arm that places the light directly ahead of the stem and in front of my cables (it'll be nice to no longer have cable shadow in the beam shot) and the helmet light can attach to the GoPro mount at came with my helmet. It should be a good set up.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Integrated type gopro mounting is always awesome. I just wish on helmets they would do them more forward/lower. Small lights aren't bad up top but Gopros and big lights tend to get annoying.

Be sure to post pics, that's the rules here 

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Actually on my Bell Super (the original one, which I only use winter time) the GoPro mount is forward. I've never used it before but this looks to be a good use of it now. Plus the XP2 light head is so small. It's smaller than I imagined it to be.

I may have more of a challenge attaching it to my summer time, Fox Flux helmet. That one has a very sculpted top that is not vary light friendly. But alas, it is one of the few helmets that is comfortable on my odd shaped noggin.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I know the odd shaped noggin problem. My head is actually rounder instead of egg shaped. Makes helmets a task. Bell is the only helmets out of the box that fit perfectly.

Just got a fly racing helmet in, was bummed at first till I realized the thick foam pads on the sides come off easy enough. Switched that for some pads they included (that I have no idea where they would go) and fits nicely now. I needed something with more ventilation than my stoker cause hot and humid summers I cook in the thing if I'm not where I can stay at high speeds.

Also understand trying to mount on the more sculpted helmets. Getting a light stable on my bell road helmet is something I have given up on for right now lol.

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I created my adapter cable today by splicing the two halves of a Ituo and Cygolite extension cable together. I tested the output voltage of both packs and while the Cygolite pack was slightly higher (it was freshly charged) it ended up the same as the Ituo pack at 8.18V.

The adapter cable works great so now I have another 5400mAh pack as a backup to the two 6800mAh packs I will have. I should be able to ride for a long time and not worry about running out of juice. I like to be prepared. In addition to the helmet and bar light I usually carry a backup battery and a self contain Light an Motion 550 light. I was once an hour away from home when my lights died because I'd forgotten to charge the battery and I ended up riding home on the light of my cell phone. Never again...


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

So I got a couple of rides in now. One on wide multi-use paths and one fat biking in the snow in the mountains on tight single track.

For the first ride I was actually a bit disappointed. The light was nice but it really didn't seem that bright (I was running mostly on medium). I have the lights configured so I have a flood/wide spot on the bars and a narrow spot/wide spot on my helmet. The light was plenty on high but medium seemed lacking (of course I could tune them to ramp them up to 900). It may have been the nature of the ride, wide trails in a mostly featureless landscape. I came out of the ride thinking that for those type of rides I may do better with the lamps reversed so on the bar I have a light that projects further and the helmet light is more of a flood so I don't have to turn my head so much to see round corners. But I reserved judgement for a proper test.

Tonight I did a group ride fat biking in the snow. It involved a 1000ft of climbing which resulted in 1000ft of descending fast through tight single track and snow ladened pine trees. I left the lights in the configuration I had before, more flood on the bars and narrower on the head. This time it was fantastic! Medium is great for the climbs and general riding. Low worked well for giving light while chatting/hanging around (there were 19 of us). High was awesome on the descents. Really the best lights I have ever used. With both lights on high I was outshining many of the other lights in the pack. In the snow it was like daylight. It was ridiculously bright and easy to see. I could tell the neutral color of the light from others that had bluer lights. Considering snow reflects a lot, I found the XP2s easy on the eyes and they gave no glare.

So I think for true mountain bike type riding my combination and lens focusing in great. For more gravel grinding rides on wide multi-use paths I think I will reverse the lights. 

Anyway. Good lights. I'm glad I lost and broke my Cygolite now.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Thanks for the update. Now you see why all of us are loving them. I run xp3 lid xp2 bars mostly (except been playing with XP4s which one is the equivalent of 2 XP2s).

You may find also swapping just one optic out on your bar light for one with more throw may do better at balancing things out for the gravel/path type use.


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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these for my helmet. For the bars I'm doing either another XP2, or a Wiz20 (self contained). 
I like the idea of taking cells and swapping them as needed, as well as being able to balance them after a few months of cold riding. If I just did XP2, do any of you gurus know where I could find a waterproof 2 or 4 cell battery holder that I could swap cells on the trail if needed? (2 cell would be nice for mounting rear of helmet). I can take this to another forum if needed, but just looking for sources on if it would be worth my time to try and make it work (if the connectors fit, if it kills runtime, etc). If it's a PITA I will just get spare non-serviceable battery packs that fit the XP2 light.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

There's not anything out there that is a direct fit. And what is out there uses smaller guage wire which "can" effect performance.

If your planning on dealing with swapping cells in a 2 cell, why not just run with the stock 4 cell pack and put it in a jersey pocket or the like. I have a couple 2 cell cases (can't get them anymore anywhere sadly) and only use them for shorter rides. Especially during the winter, rarely do I use my 2 cell for more than a 30 minute ride in the cold.

Rides where I need more run time the 4 cell pack put in my hydropack (or jacket pocket when it's cold.). A 2 cell means stopping, taking helmet off, changing cells in the dark and so on. And you risk putting the cells in backwards (which is a problem if you don't use a case with reverse polarity protection).

I like 2 cells packs for convenience if my ride is under 1.5 hrs but found it a hassle beyond that.

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Just stick with the 6800mAh battery. No worries on run time with that. I did a 2-1/2 hour ride in 17F temps (which will shorten battery run time) and I left my lights on medium the entire time except for when I was running high. 

On medium they are expected to run 8 hours. 4 hours on high. Even with the cold potentially shortening medium run time to say 4 hours that still gave me plenty of reserve.

Just stick the battery in your pack and enjoy the ride. You don't want to mess around with changing batteries in the dark (or in deep snow). Been there, done that. Prefer not to do it again.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I didn't mind swapping batteries in 15F weather up until you drop one in the snow and have to find it. Then I was pissed. Never forgot to charge before a ride again. Use my wiz20 on my fat bike usually since Im out for more than an hour(solo). Just a wide spot/flood optic and let is blast on high. 

When I do group stuff I'm the same way, 4 cell packs. Not because we spend plenty of time goofing off and using beer and whisky to stay warm lol.

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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

I've got a set of (2) XP2s - can't wait for the midwest trails to dry out so I can give them a try. 

What optic combos would people recommend for bar / helmet? They've got the stock narrow spot in both at the moment. 
Would this be a good starting point?
Bar: Flood/WideSpot
Helmet: NarrowSpot/WideSpot

I'm wondering if two widespots on the helmet would lack throw, or maybe double widespot would be good for bars? Or is it best to leave one narrowspot in each of the lights for throw? 

Also, wondering for those of you getting close to 4 full hours runtime, was this out of the box? I charged the batteries (6 hours each) so I'm not sure if they were already drained. I sat them in front of a fan on high and did a couple test runs each (same times for both tests) and they both turned red at 2:50, and shut off at 3:38. (didn't notice much cutback in brightness at the end but maybe I was adjusting).

In all, they seem to be really nice quality. I can't believe how small and bright they are.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I roll with a flood/wide spot on the bars and wide/narrow mix (but I use xp3 on the helmet).

As for runtimes, they will vary by a few minutes, runtimes increase slightly after a few uses, their only rated for >3hrs. Your getting over 3.5hrs first charge. So everything is well in range there.

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

ztbishop said:


> I've got a set of (2) XP2s - can't wait for the midwest trails to dry out so I can give them a try.
> 
> What optic combos would people recommend for bar / helmet? They've got the stock narrow spot in both at the moment.
> Would this be a good starting point?
> ...


I currently have a narrow and wide on my helmet XP2 and a wide/flood on my bars. I'm finding that this combination is not my preferred liking. I am going to swap it an move the narrow/wide to my bars and the flood/wide to my helmet.

The rational here is that my head moves around a lot but my bars do not as we don't really have much in the way of twisty trails here in Colorado. Hence I get more of a hot spot that swings around with my head movement. I also flick my eyes around and not necessarily my head so the light is not always where my eyes want to me. So, the more tightly focused beam on the bars works well when I'm traveling fast and also keeps the "hotter" narrower beam more stable. The flood/wide on the helmet gives much more diffused light that reaches out to my periphery so I have light where I want it for the closer (looking round trees) navigation.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

ztbishop said:


> Also, wondering for those of you getting close to 4 full hours runtime, was this out of the box? I charged the batteries (6 hours each) so I'm not sure if they were already drained. I sat them in front of a fan on high and did a couple test runs each (same times for both tests) and they both turned red at 2:50, and shut off at 3:38. (didn't notice much cutback in brightness at the end but maybe I was adjusting).


I rode for 3:30hr last night and I ran about 65% on medium and 35% on high for both lights during that time. I had no issues with run time.

I did have an issue yesterday though and I discovered something to be aware off. I plugged my batteries in to charge them from the prior ride (both batteries were around 50% charge). I saw that a green light came on the power brick so I assumed they were charging. Later after putting them on my bike, my helmet would not light at all and my bar went off after two minutes and would not come back on. I tested both heads with a non Ituo battery and they worked fine. I then tested the batteries and neither one put out voltage (though my volt meter may have died recently). Checking more I found the powerstrip my chargers were plugged into was had been knocked off so it was not charging. Instead it seems that plugging a battery into a non powered charger will actually discharge it.

What should happen is with the charger powered but not connected to a battery it should show a green light. Then when you connect the battery the light will turn red until it is fully charged at which point it will turn green again. Check that you chargers are actually powered. After I recharged mine they ran fine, though I do always carry an extra battery and a whole one piece back up light just to be safe.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

While I'm here, I am posting this to RAKC Ind. 

I have a couple of things with my dual XP2 setup that I hope you can comment on. 

1) My helmet light which currently is configured with Wide/Narrow lens seems much dimmer on medium and low than my bar light that is floor/wide. I thought it was the flood that reduced brightness but mine appears opposite. I have done factory reset on it so it should not have been reprogrammed. On high, it seems comparable to the other light but I still sense it is a little dimmer. Why might this be?

2) I am getting very erratic behaviour from my bar light when using the remote. I have to be very deliberate to push between button pushes to prevent it from going into programming mode. I have a process where I switch the lights alternately to prevent a double push. However, many times when the light is on high and I want to knock it down to medium I will press the remote but the light immediately goes into programming mode (rather than drop to dim). I then have to double press to get out of this. The double press does not always work though and the light settings get messed up (for example changing order from low-med-high to high-med-low-flash). Ultimately I manage to switch it off then I do a factory reset. Last night I think I had to do this about seven times on the ride. It really pissed me off. The helmet light does not have these issues. So I am wondering what is up and if some part of this is defective? I have reseated the remote cable in the head as you have said that can be flaky at times.

Finally, a recommendation for a future enhancement. The remote should not be allowed to go into programming mode. Programming should be restricted to the button on the light head. This way, it can still be reprogrammed but accidental activation of programming mode will not occur through the remote. For general riding the remote could be used for rapidly switching through the light settings low-med-high. I would add that the remote also should not be used to getting into special mode. That should also be activated from the light head. After all, normal/special mode is only selected once as you switch the system on. Remote should be reserved from changing the intensity of the light.

That's it.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

The brightness issue is because a flood optic set up spreads the light in close, when mixed with wide spot it creates a pretty bright area in close. That's compared to the other where the hot spot is where the majority of the light is concentrated.

Basically it messes with the eyes for some people. This is why I go higher power on the helmet (xp3 in my case) as then it balances out better. For me I think it's more how sensitive your peripheral vision is. This is why some go with what we use for a helmet beam pattern on their bars as well. 

But turn around and point it light at something 100yrds out and see which light does a better job of lighting everything up at that distance. That shows the difference.

It's hard to get up to speed on how it all works and why, I'll do my best to explain as best as I can (other guys will probably jump in too). But it's a personal preference thing. May try dual flood on the bars or go dual wide. It's why we offer options, not everyone likes the same thing.

As for the remote thing. That's a major task and costly as it involves an entire secondary circuit board and so on. Adds cost. But when everything works like it's supposed to (no glitchy remote port) it's all but Impossible to access programming mode while riding. I've tried to do it and can't.

Now as for the glitchy remote, send an email, we'll warranty that light no problem. It's not a common issue or anything (had a couple XP3s do it when they were released). 

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.

The light is overall good quality, But I have to say for anyone considering any of the ITUO lights right now, consider the remote an absolute non feature of this light. It's not worth the materials it's made of.

I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it... Right now I've had to spend another 75 dollars to get the handlebar situation sorted out once the oem mount broke.

*Edited, Working with RAK to resolve.* :madman:


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

minimusprime said:


> I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it... Right now I've had to spend another 75 dollars to get the handlebar situation sorted out once the oem mount broke.


I did not use the OEM mount. I have been using this Garmin/GoPro mount instead. It's not high quality (alignment of the light is very dependent the mount being straight - mine is very slightly twisted) but it works good enough. I mount the head unit upside on the GoPro mount. The GoPro mount on the stem appears to be incorrectly sized so it is a little difficult to attach the light mount at first, but once attached you don't need to mess with it.

I'm now debating on getting two more of these for my other bikes or getting the more expensive K-Edge version.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

RAKC Ind said:


> As for the remote thing. That's a major task and costly as it involves an entire secondary circuit board and so on. Adds cost. But when everything works like it's supposed to (no glitchy remote port) it's all but Impossible to access programming mode while riding. I've tried to do it and can't.
> 
> Now as for the glitchy remote, send an email, we'll warranty that light no problem. It's not a common issue or anything (had a couple XP3s do it when they were released).


Thanks, I'll follow up by email.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I had PMd you previously asking what the issues were as I definitely make sure warranty matters are dealt with as quickly as possible. Not sure when you purchased your light but if you had issues for this long, why did you not respond or contact me? Would have had the matter taken care of as quickly as possible. 

Even a customer being in Canada, it's no problem for us to take care of warranty issues. 

I also handle warranties for ones bought off Amazon. Though until last month it was via Ituo directly only it doesn't matter:

ALL ITUO WARRANTY MATTERS ARE HANDLED BY ME DIRECTLY, RIGHT HERE IN CURRENTLY FREEZING COLD (though had tornadoes early this last week and now snow on the way tomorrow and Monday) NORTH WESTERN ILLINOIS. FULTON IL 61252 TO BE EXACT. Only way we could be more centered is to relocate to St. Louis MO. Lol.

To be honest out of the large number of xp2 and xp3's out there, I'm now aware of a total of 5 that have had electronic issues and need/needed warrantied. But if I don't know that a light is having a problem, I can't get it squared away.

Even the highest of high end can have problems in any product, that's why there is a warranty.

Thanks.

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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

minimusprime said:


> The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.
> 
> The light is overall good quality, But I have to say for anyone considering any of the ITUO lights right now, consider the remote an absolute non feature of this light. It's not worth the materials it's made of.
> 
> I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it...


Please, do yourself a favor and just get ITUO to replace the lamp you have ( on warranty ). Always a pain when you get something that doesn't work right but it happens. Doesn't mean the over-all product is bad. Like what was said, all companies have bad ones from time to time. I have a newer Gloworm X2 that also goes into programming mode if I "rapid fire" the remote to get to a desired mode. Nothing wrong with the lamp per say ( in this case ) I just have fast fingers. In case of the XP2 the ITUO's don't seem to have the same issue unless ( like you said ) yours has a problem and is going into programming mode. My Gloworm isn't fixable but yours is if you get it replaced ( on warranty I'm assuming ).



> *EDIT UPDATE;* Poster that was quoted has since followed the recommendations and has resolved the issue with the manufacturer. This has been posted by request.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Hey all, I wanted to follow up on my flaky XP2 issue.

Good news!

It may have been a bad connection after all, I swapped the lights tonight so the narrow/wide is on the bars (the one that was flaky) and the flood/narrow on the helmet. During the swap one of the little o-rings fell out of the remote port of the head unit. I believe somehow the o-ring dislodged itself from the housing of the remote and got between the male and female parts preventing a good fit - sort of acting as a condom! So while it seemed like the remote was fully connected it may not have been.

Testing with the remotes in the swapped heads and the o-ring properly seated I am finding the lights are acting properly and it is now not dropping into programming mode by accident. In fact I can double press within about a 1/2 second and the light will cycle through low-med-high as it ought to. It requires a very fast double click to get into programming mode.

I have not done a ride yet but just in testing it appears to be good. So I wanted to follow up just to let others know that the reliability of the lights appears to be good but if you do have any weirdness in the remote, check the seating of the tiny clear o-ring that sits on the male plug.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Thats awesome and something I never thought to mention. That entire set up is rather tight fitting and touchy (but its water proof and removable, so has to be).

Keep us updated!


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Thanks for posting that TheNormsk :thumbsup:. Getting to know your light through others experiences is one of the great things about MTBR. Never had that problem with my XP2/XP3 but will now know what to do if it ever pops up.
Mole


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

TheNormsk said:


> Hey all, I wanted to follow up on my flaky XP2 issue.
> 
> Good news!
> 
> ...


Interesting... the o-ring for my remote also disappeared on my first ride. I checked the light head thoroughly to see if it some how got lodged inside the light head but didn't see anything. I'll check again when I get home today.

for those following along in my never ending saga of the quest for night riding bliss... Keith from ITUO/RAK cross shipped me a new light head with literally zero fuss. TBH, in all my years as an internet consumer, I've never had a single vendor cross ship me something without charging my card as a deposit.

In the world of Amazon, and other massive publicly traded high volume low margin e-tailers... it's very rare to be impressed by customer service. Color me impressed. In truth, I should have handled all of this internally before ever coming to the boards....


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> minimusprime said:
> 
> 
> > The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.
> ...


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

MRMOLE said:


> What mount system did you spend $75 on? I've been using "Vancbiker" mounts. Excellent products and less than what you spent.
> 
> Mole


I use my lights on three different bikes, two with 31.8mm bars and one with 35mm bars. That being the case, the vancbiker handlebar clamp wouldn't work. I ended up getting one of his 2 bolt go-pro compatible mounts and then getting a gopro pro handlebar mount.










https://shop.gopro.com/mounts/pro-handlebar-seatpost-pole-mount/AMHSM-001.html

Ironically it's very very similar to the vancbiker setup that you have, but it accommodates different bar clamps. It's overly expensive and is made of all aluminum which is nice, but does not provide a failure (sacrificial) mode for crashes... I'm working on getting a plastic gopro adapter integrated so there is some where for it to break. I'm going to night ride tomorrow so I'll get it all setup and take pictures tonight.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

OMG, GoPro is really raping the brand name on that one damn. Nice mount no doubt but $60, ouch.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Looks like a nice setup. Look forward to seeing it mounted to bike/light.
Mole


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

RAKC Ind said:


> OMG, GoPro is really raping the brand name on that one damn. Nice mount no doubt but $60, ouch.


Nice mount. There may be a pretty good markup going on there, but really when I look at it it seems fairly priced for what is likely a lower volume seller for a corporation.

Their clamp halves are 2 different pieces where my upper and lower clamp pieces are identical. Then they have all the rubber adapter sleeves. Mold costs have to be amortized into the projected sales.

Personally, I choose to make individual sizes as I don't care for using size adapter sleeves on my own stuff. Particularly when using a mount that can fit a 35mm bar on a 22.2 bar. The mount and sleeve would look way out of place IMO.

One thing I see with selling the GoPro light adapters is that the majority of riders seem to leave the GoPro mount on the bike all the time and just switch out what they are putting on it. Camera for day rides and lights for nights.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I'm mostly that way, I don't take my mounts off usually.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

Photo Overload, because why not.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I'm guessing that little extension isn't needed? Makes for a nice little set up but I'm still like "WTF" on the price tag. Especially when it price wasn't stupid they would sell a lot more.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

RAKC Ind said:


> I'm guessing that little extension isn't needed? Makes for a nice little set up but I'm still like "WTF" on the price tag. Especially when it price wasn't stupid they would sell a lot more.
> 
> Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


The extension is a plastic gopro adapter. I wanted to add it so that I had a failure point in the mounting solution. Overall I'm happy with this setup. It's needlessly expensive but it's solid and and usable on a wide range of bikes. The nice thing about the extra little knuckle I have in there is that it gives me the opportunity to keep one of the joints hand tight (instead of gorilla) which allows on the fly angle adjustments.

FWIW, there is something funky with the ITUO iteration of the gopro mounting solution. Once you mate a gopro mount to the ITUO quick release gopro adapter, it starts to get jammed up. My guess is that the 2 slot gopro adapter that is provided with the ITUO lights is a bit too short and causes some interference when you mate them together enough to slide a bolt through. It feels like 2mm more space would make the difference. This is by no means a game breaker because everything fits together with a little umph behind it... but it's easy to put too much force into it and snap the oem ITUO mount. Although, it could easily be debated that this is a feature instead of destroying the light head during a crash.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I use the Elecor Outfront mount to mount both my garmin and the XP2.

It's cheap ($15) and works well for the cost. It gets the XP2 out front and infront of my cables. Plus it is nicely centered on the bars. It's plastic so it will provide the point of failure if needed as well.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Being that he has a Garmin too I surprised that idea didn't cross his mind. Xp2 is lighter than a GoPro, would make a great solution for those running garmins.

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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I really don't want my garmin in front of the handlebars for a few reasons:
1) Hard to see that far away. I do a lot of riding where you spend 2 hours straight climbing and then 30 minutes descending 5-10 continuous miles. It's tough to see the garmin at speed if it's that far out in front while going downhill.
2) Over the bar protection. I ride at the limit often and crashing is a part of the sport. I've crushed a few garmins over the years having them that far out front
3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.
4) Aesthetics, there I said it... I run one of those mounts on my road bike... but I don't want them on my mtb.


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## TwoHeadsBrewing (Aug 28, 2009)

Decided I'd see what all the fuss what about and ordered an XP-2 kit on Monday. Out for delivery now in NorCal...fast shipping!


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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

minimusprime said:


> .......3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.


I can't believe that a plastic "out front" style mount would be stable for trail riding with the weight of a GPS and light or camera hanging on it. The aluminum one like K-edge is very stiff. I've used one of the K-edge clones with just a light and could not see any added vibration or shaking of the light. Usage is everything though. Possibly fine for road use.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Well I ride in the Rocky Mountains which are fairly... rocky.

I have not ridden with the Elecor in the high mountains yet this year as they are covered in snow still (did take it fat biking though). For the dry trails down low I have not noticed any instability when plowing at up to 25 mph through rougher terrain (then again my Fox 36 smooths things out a lot). Last year I was using a SRAM plastic Garmin mount out front and that was rock solid. That mount did not have the GoPro attachment though. 

I found the Elecor seemed wobbly at first but I found that it needs to be fully tight (the opening around the bars need to be fully clamped shut). Once it tight it is solid for the XP2/Garmin combo.

If you want a more solid mount for an actual GoPro then you should probably go with the K-Edge but that is $65. For just XP2/Garmin duties the Elecor is just fine.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Funny you should say that vanc, I'm making a similar (but longer) mount for my road bike right now. Get my light down low.

But using aluminum. If it doesn't take me too long I may make another one (shorter) for my plus bike. Not enough spacer in that one for a minoura mount (which is kind short reaching anyway)

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## Action LED Lights (Nov 11, 2011)

minimusprime said:


> 3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.


The Morsa mount is very stiff, being made of carbon fiber filled nylon and being fairly beefy. Allows you to mount a variety of things up, down, in or out.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I'm still trying to figure out my preferred lens set up.

I started with flood/wide on bars and wide/narrow on my helmet. It was good but I felt the bars were lacking throw and the helmet lacking flood. So I swapped them.

Swapped did not feel right either. The flood on the helmet was nice but now I felt like I had no spot. Conversely the bars lacked the spread and seemed to bounce around more (hey perhaps my plastic mount is bouncy after all).

So I've ordered another flood lens. I think this time I will put a flood/narrow on both lights. Hopefully they'll feel balanced and I'll get a good compromise of flood and throw.

I'm also getting three more quick releases/GoPro mounts so I can easily swap the lights between my three bikes and two helmets.


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## minimusprime (May 26, 2009)

I'm still playing with optics as well. FWIW, I'm currently running 2x wide spots on the handle bars and 1 flood and 1 narrow spot on my helmet light.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Your surprisingly running about the opposite of most. I've always kept my wider patterns on the bars, run a combo of wide and narrow on the lid.

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## TwoHeadsBrewing (Aug 28, 2009)

I just got my XP2 package in, and it looks good. Except for one thing: I slid the light head onto the quick release bracket, and now it won't come off. The tab that looks to be the release doesn't actually release the light, so it's stuck on there. Anyone have this same issue?


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

You put it in backwards. A few people have done this (doesn't go in backwards easily, kind of have to force it)

There's a little metal pin, use something to push it out so the latch falls out then light will slide out.

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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Maybe this is why Ituo uses such a long power cable on their battery. Nice battery placement configuration, will try using it for a while.
Mole


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

MRMOLE said:


> Maybe this is why Ituo uses such a long power cable on their battery. Nice battery placement configuration, will try using it for a while.
> Mole
> 
> View attachment 1131606


You should wrap the wire around the top tube so it doesn't flap around while riding. But yes, I agree, as it gives you lots of options.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

Way too much cord in my opinion. I'd likely try to coil the wire inside the battery bag, mount ( upside down ) on the down tube and pull out just the amount of cord I need. If that didn't work I'd likely shorten the wire myself by accessing the cord to the battery PCB and doing the deed direct. No way I could stand for that much wire flapping about. The ITUO battery bag looks a lot like the one I have from Xeccon. ( has the wide stretchy strap with buckle and velcro ). I mount mine upside down on the down tube because the top tube has all the shifter-cable / brake-line stuff. Not that I can't mount on the top tube, just easier not dealing with the cables. Anyway, no problem mounting on the down tube. Mine doesn't move unless something hits it. 

Tomorrow ( today ) I'll be doing my first Mt. bike ride of 2017. Can't wait to feel dirt under my tires again. BTW, nice bike MRM.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

It's not hard to deal with the cord at all. Bundle it a little and secure it under that battery pouch strap. 

It's what I do.

It actually makes sense to me to be that long. Makes for more options of places to mount the packs. Like I can't use a short cable set up on my fat bike, frame bag in the way.

I've mounted to down tube and top tube. Down tube has always been a bit more touchy. Hydro formed tubes make for some weird shapes or a purely round tube (my fat bike) the only thing that actually doesn't move is the neoprene pouches.

I actually like the long wires myself, gives me options. Not hard to just bundle the extra and secure it with the strap for the pack (it's what I always did on the 29er) but not having to add 3ft if cable to put the pack like Mole is I like. 

My fat bike I have the pack back almost that far.

Haven't taken the new plus bike out after dark YET.

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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

*spare parts*

Hi RAKC Ind (or anyone else who might chime in) -

I just had a few questions about parts for the XP2 (or XP series) down the road, as ITUO has jumped ship (sorry to hear about that). I finally got out for a night ride and decided the narrow-spot are too concentrated for me.

Do you still have a stock of lenses that I could purchase? I was hoping to get a couple Flood, (and if there are wide spot a couple of those). 
-Or is there a standard of compatible lenses? (glow-worm, ect, or a certain size lense to search...)

Also, for future reference: 
If my batteries end up needing replaced a few years from now, are there any brands with compatible cable connections for the XP lights? -As these are threaded.

Thanks in advance.


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## garrybunk (Feb 12, 2014)

ztbishop said:


> . . . as ITUO has jumped ship (sorry to hear about that).


Huh? I must have missed something.

EDIT - Okay, I've seen the posts now. Move along.

-Garry


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

From https://www.rakclighting.com



> Ituo has closed their doors
> 
> We're beat and battered, holding the bag for their decision, BUT WE ARE STILL HERE.
> 
> ...


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

ztbishop said:


> Hi RAKC Ind (or anyone else who might chime in) -
> 
> I just had a few questions about parts for the XP2 (or XP series) down the road, as ITUO has jumped ship (sorry to hear about that). I finally got out for a night ride and decided the narrow-spot are too concentrated for me.
> 
> ...


Optics matter, we are out (last few we had are spoken for by other customers now). Gloworm will fit but are a bit of a pain as you have to get them into the wide holders. New Gemini appear to fit just fine. Look like they come from the same factory. I could be wrong on this though.

As for batteries, nothing else out there at this time I am aware of. Solarstorm connectors will plug in but the wire they use is cheap, small, and doesnt last.

Right now we can swap connectors in packs if anyone needs it. Though who knows what will be going on with bike lights. Things are changing fairly quickly now.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## fxr man (Nov 16, 2007)

Well as luck would have it I bought two Xp3 lights and these are the first lights I've ever owned.
So far they have been great lights.
It's a shame this happened. Guess I'll keep using them until they break ... ?


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Ive been trying to let people know we still have parts to fix internals if there is a problem. How many for each light I am unsure. Just what Ituo sent us to cover warranty repairs in the past. So well keep ppl going as long as we have parts. Labor repairs will be free, customer just had to pay shipping.

Mounts see vancbiker here if your interface on the light head breaks, and they'll mount to any gopro mount.

Not something to be too concerned with. Lights hold up well overall. Just the mounts have had some issues.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I use the K-Edge Garmin/Gopro mount for my XP2s and love it.


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

RAKC Ind said:


> Ive been trying to let people know we still have parts to fix internals if there is a problem. How many for each light I am unsure. Just what Ituo sent us to cover warranty repairs in the past. So well keep ppl going as long as we have parts. Labor repairs will be free, customer just had to pay shipping.
> 
> Mounts see vancbiker here if your interface on the light head breaks, and they'll mount to any gopro mount.
> 
> ...


Go show RAKC! Nice to hear there will still be support for the ITUO stuff. :thumbsup:

My thoughts on ITUO; Call me pragmatic but I still think the sudden unexpected departure of ITUO to be very strange. Usually in cases where the manufacturer is about to go under there is some type of announcement of their pending closing of shop. Then there is the expected "Going out of business sale". None of that happened. A part of me is hoping that perhaps the owners just had some legal problem and at some point might make a come-back ( perhaps under another name? ). The ITUO lamps were ( and continue to be ) very nice lamps at a reasonable price point. I would of thought the company was very successful. With such nice design and function of their lamps it makes no sense for them to just go ghost on us.

Would of been nice if someone else just bought the company and then continued to design and sell nice light set-ups. I realize though that from a practical stand point there is a lot of competition in the bike light industry. Companies like DiNotte though continue to hang in there and have been around since the sales of the first LED bike lights even though they are rarely talked about anymore. I thought for sure ITUO had carved themselves a niche in the marketplace but I guess I was wrong.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I had thought the same. Something was going sideways when the new mounts were supposed to be ready in the spring. Then suddenly nothing had been done and they would have them ready for this last shipment.

Then gone. They had cornered the market in a few ways, had some things that no one else had done at the time. But when I was their only dealer left (as I came to realize) Im guessing they just had unrealistic expectations and gambled too much on expected sales in the first year. 

Im on the hunt for a worthy replacement, not easy though.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## varider (Nov 29, 2012)

Hey mods,
you guys need to stop censoring this thread. Honestly, I just watched you delete three posts that were legitimate.


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

RAKC Ind said:


> I also handle warranties for ones bought off Amazon. Though until last month it was via Ituo directly only it doesn't matter:
> 
> ALL ITUO WARRANTY MATTERS ARE HANDLED BY ME DIRECTLY, RIGHT HERE IN CURRENTLY FREEZING COLD (though had tornadoes early this last week and now snow on the way tomorrow and Monday) NORTH WESTERN ILLINOIS. FULTON IL 61252 TO BE EXACT. Only way we could be more centered is to relocate to St. Louis MO. Lol.
> 
> ...


Just bumping this as there was some confusion about who exactly is looking after warranties...


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

znomit said:


> Just bumping this as there was some confusion about who exactly is looking after warranties...


Do you have some issue or error on your end that doesnt allow you to read previous posts??? What is your point here?

As posted before in numerous places:

Ituo is out of business. We will continue to service lights as long as we have parts. Once our supply runs out then that's it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## znomit (Dec 27, 2007)

RAKC Ind said:


> Do you have some issue or error on your end that doesnt allow you to read previous posts???


Nobody can read the numerous previous posts that you have deleted.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

znomit said:


> Nobody can read the numerous previous posts that you have deleted.


Read like 5 or 6 posts up, Cat responded to it.

And I cant delete anything, not a moderator.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## shephurd (Jun 18, 2013)

Anyone have one for sale or know where to buy one?


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

shephurd said:


> Anyone have one for sale or know where to buy one?


I'm not familiar with this vendor, only know they're in the UK. They appear to have stock left at reasonable prices but not sure how the shipping will affect that. Let us know if you order one.
Mole

WIZ-XP2 1500 lumen programmable lightset | Bright Bike Lights


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## Blue66 (Sep 18, 2016)

Another source:

https://www.amazon.com/ITUO-headlig...=UTF8&qid=1506615126&sr=1-1&keywords=ituo+xp2

https://www.amazon.com/ITUO-headlig...=UTF8&qid=1506615242&sr=1-1&keywords=ituo+xp3


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Oh ya forgot about amazon. In Amazon warehouses at least.

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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

I'm not sure if I'm stupid given ITUO is out of business but I like the lights enough I just ordered the XP3 through Amazon. I want to configure it so the XP3 is on the bars with a flood - spot - flood optics and then my XP2 on my helmet will be spot-wide (or spot-spot). I'll then dedicate the other XP2 to my cross bike with a spot-wide combo.

I think I have enough optics for this....

There is part of me that thinks this is foolish as I don't think RAKC will help me with the XP3 if it has any issues (as it was bought through Amazon and not him) but it is worth the risk. When I look at the competition I don't see anything else comparable at the moment...


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## Cat-man-do (May 16, 2004)

TheNormsk said:


> I'm not sure if I'm stupid given ITUO is out of business but I like the lights enough I just ordered the XP3 through Amazon. I want to configure it so the XP3 is on the bars with a flood - spot - flood optics and then my XP2 on my helmet will be spot-wide (or spot-spot). I'll then dedicate the other XP2 to my cross bike with a spot-wide combo.
> 
> I think I have enough optics for this....


I don't think you're stupid. These are very nice lamps. If you buy through Amazon I'm sure there is a return policy if something is wrong. At least there is still a place that has some of the lamps. Like you I'm after some of the optics but I would need to go through a vendor to get those.

I don't know what optics come standard on the XP series lamps. When I ordered mine I ordered only the lamp head and already setup with all spots. By next year I might want to run the XP3 on the bars. If I do I'd like to try out a couple different optic options but for now I might have to try to use other sources if I decide to make changes.


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Luckily for me I ordered extra optics so I have a number laying around. I just don’t remember what I have of each.


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> TheNormsk said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not sure if I'm stupid given ITUO is out of business but I like the lights enough I just ordered the XP3 through Amazon. I want to configure it so the XP3 is on the bars with a flood - spot - flood optics and then my XP2 on my helmet will be spot-wide (or spot-spot). I'll then dedicate the other XP2 to my cross bike with a spot-wide combo.
> ...


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Service would still apply the same, repairs are what parts we still have till gone, customer pays shipping charges, parts and labor are free.

Get what you can while you can basically, nothing stupid about it.

The "bang for buck" may have been part of their failure when you consider the prices of lights that can come close to competing.

Their on amazon, grab then while you can. Im out of all lights now anyway. Just makes sense.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> QUOTE=Cat
> I don't know what optics come standard on the XP series lamps. When I ordered mine I ordered only the lamp head and already setup with all spots. By next year I might want to run the XP3 on the bars. If I do I'd like to try out a couple different optic options but for now I might have to try to use other sources if I decide to make changes.


For me I've found the XP3 over kill for bar use. Not that it doesn't make a good bar light, I just never find any situation where anything over 50 - 60% power is necessary. XP2 on the bar (with one or two Gloworm XS wide angle optics) and XP3 helmet mounted (stock spots) is as good an off-road setup as I've found. I've tried some different optics with my XP3 and for me with my glare sensitive eyes have only been able to use the Gloworm XS wide angle (elliptical) optics to widen the beam. Any symmetrical wide angle or even the Ituo wide spots created too much forground light has been my experience. Just FYI stuff, always interested to hear how other setup their lights.
Mole


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

For me the wide spots are my favorite.

Xp3 and 4 are overkill but I like using them in lower modes as I dont have to worry about heat issues on hot nights. My mentality behind it. 

Dual xp3s is kind of my favorite set up though my pr1200 does seem to be doing well on the bars for dusk rides, havent been out for a full, pitch black ride in a long while. Wiz20 on wide spots is nice too (so of course xp2 would be as well) with my xp3 on the lid.



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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Interesting take on the optics by MrMole.

My thinking was along these lines. Here in Colorado our trails tend to be open with long curves. They're not so much tight and twisty. I did a recent video on the lights (it's linked a few posts up) where I actually surprised myself by liking bar mounts better for trail definition. While you can't beat a helmet for spotting where you want to go I like the bar position for general lighting fill. Hence my thoughts on two floods and a spot. With three lights though, perhaps spot-flood-wide would also be good?

Originally I did not get the XP3 as the run times are shorter than my preference (I ride for up to 3-1/2 hours at night) but like RAKC I can configure these to run at lower output.

I never use low on my XP2 (apart from in snow). I use medium except for downhill when I put full on. I figure I will tune the XP3 so that low is similar to the XP2 medium and medium is similar to the XP2 high. Then I'll reserve high on the XP3 for when I REALLY want to punch it (30-40 mph runs off road)


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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

> QUOTE=TheNormsk;13357537]Interesting take on the optics by MrMole.
> 
> My thinking was along these lines. Here in Colorado our trails tend to be open with long curves. They're not so much tight and twisty. I did a recent video on the lights (it's linked a few posts up) where I actually surprised myself by liking bar mounts better for trail definition. While you can't beat a helmet for spotting where you want to go I like the bar position for general lighting fill. Hence my thoughts on two floods and a spot. With three lights though, perhaps spot-flood-wide would also be good?
> 
> ...


Gloworm XS wide angle (elliptical) optics are different than your typical elliptical optic. They widen the beam (like a typical symmetrical wide angle optic) + increase vertical coverage (just not to the extent of a symmetrical wide angle optic). You get just as wide a beam horizontally but only light the trees up 10' instead of 15' and decrease excessive foreground light (which is what hurts me) and because of the reduced coverage area (top and bottom) retain more of the light intensity allowing lower settings which increase battery runtime. Of course everybodys needs (terrain/vision/skill levels) are different and only recommend you try XP3 helmet mounted because it's worked so well for me. Recommendations and optic description are just raw data of you to interpret. Vision and strength limitations mean I will never see 30-40mph off-road but still relevant that the faster I go the more I prefer the XP3 helmet mounted, just more raw data. 
Mole


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## patski (Dec 12, 2005)

TheNormsk said:


> I'm not sure if I'm stupid given ITUO is out of business but I like the lights enough I just ordered the XP3 through Amazon.


Wow, they still are available on Amazon(link)


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

Cat-man-do said:


> I don't know what optics come standard on the XP series lamps. When I ordered mine I ordered only the lamp head and already setup with all spots


I believe the lamps come with spots by default. I ordered extra wide and flood when I got my XP2. I'm just taken an inventory and I have 4 spots, 2 wides and 2 floods. I get my XP3 on Tuesday. Anyone know what optics that comes with?


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

It was always the narrow spot optics that come installed from the factory

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## Vancbiker (May 25, 2005)

RAKC Ind said:


> It was always the narrow spot optics that come installed from the factory


So no need to ever change them!!:smilewinkgrin:


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Lol I like the wide spot optics myself 

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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

Has anyone inserted an XP2 into a mount in what is apparently the 'wrong way' and been unable to get it out? I have two lights and one of them is simply stuck in the mount. No amount of pulling and prying can get it out and I'm afraid I'll have to take a hacksaw to the mount to have any chance of removal.
***EDIT***
Nevermind - I had to pop out the pin & spring.


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## artnshel (Jul 10, 2004)

I have the same problem! My lights stuck in the mount. How did you pop out the spring and pin?


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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

artnshel said:


> I have the same problem! My lights stuck in the mount. How did you pop out the spring and pin?


I used a thin wire. A needle might be a better option. You should see a pin that goes through sideways. Push that pin all the way out and be careful not to lose the tiny spring that is under the lever.


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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

For anyone still using the XP2 lights. I just pulled mine off the shelf to get ready for a ride, but they might be toast, which is sad as I've only used them around once a month over the past few years.

On BOTH XP2 lights, the cable housing where the cable meets the light has split open exposing the inner wires where they exit the light body, but worse yet - 
I believe this will kill off any water-proof properties. As most of my night riding is in heavy snow, I'm not sure I want to even risk using them. 
It's surprising that they BOTH did this while just sitting in a box...makes me think the wire coating Ituo used won't hold up over time.

I'd assume I can test this by putting the light under a faucet and turning it on. But I get a bit nervous of fires after having been through the original Magic Shine lights.

Has anyone else had the cable housing split apart at the light body? If so, do you recommend anything (rubber cement) as a fix? 
Besides this, I've always had a bad taste in my mouth about the lights as the manufacturer seemed to screw over their sellers and I've been completely unable to get extra mounting adapters. (The quick connects). 

I'll either have to come up with a fix to water-proof the wires again, or look into a new setup if anybody has recommendations. It just seems like a waste of money to toss these if they can be fixed.


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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)




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## MRMOLE (May 31, 2011)

Of the 4 Ituo lightheads I have (3 XP2's and a XP3) only 1 of the XP2's is starting to show signs of separation. I live in a dry/hot climate so not a big deal for me but in your case time for some flex-seal or some sort of silicone sealer to keep things water tight. Too good a light to not try to fix!!!
Mole


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## mb323323 (Aug 1, 2006)

Same issue here. I've just not been using them in the rain which I don't usually ride in anyhow however, I'm afraid they'll pull apart after time. Any other ideas to cure this issue?


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

ztbishop said:


> View attachment 1916691


I had the same. I was able to dissemble and shorten and solder the connection.

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## ztbishop (May 11, 2009)

Roaming50 said:


> I had the same. I was able to dissemble and shorten and solder the connection.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm about to try a repair. Are you saying that you clipped the actual wires shorter to pull the cable housing back in through the rubber gasket? Did you still do any other type of sealant, and have you used it in wet conditions?
Thanks!


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## Roaming50 (Apr 30, 2009)

ztbishop said:


> I'm about to try a repair. Are you saying that you clipped the actual wires shorter to pull the cable housing back in through the rubber gasket? Did you still do any other type of sealant, and have you used it in wet conditions?
> Thanks!


I desoldered the power cables from the board, then trimmed the end of the power cable, rethreaded it through the gasket and then resoldered (poorly). All my iTuo lights have now failed in someway bar one, but I don't use it anymore. In each case, I'm getting power through to the board but after that, the driver will not drive the lights so board failure.

At this point I would not bother wasting your time trying to repair as the internal board has a very finite life. Time to look for something else..


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