# Cannondale Moto FR fork



## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

Hello, 
I'm new to this forum and am hoping I can get some help. I have a 1999 Cannondale MT 3000 Tandem MTB with a Moto FR suspension fork. I need to service it and I'm looking for some technical manuals for dis assembly / reassembly. I took apart the fork and in the process discovered cracked bearing cages and a lot of corrosion. It was a real bear to get apart too... Can anyone give some advice? 
Thanks,
Steve


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Can you post some photos?

I don't recall ever seeing overhaul instructions for the telescopic portions in the Cannondale Dealer stuff or on the net.

I'm guessing you somehow got it apart without the special tool to remove the damper cartridge and spring assembly.

Did you remove the clips on the upper end of the inner races or just pull everything out the bottom after you removed the upper caps and lower race retainers.

Roller bearings are available. Races may be available. Some of the parts interchange with headshoks / lefties. Things you won't get from Cannondale, triple clamps (yes they crack easily), no springs or MCU's.

I can probably find an illustrated parts catalog. 

If you decide to box it up and part with it, I am always looking for spares to keep ours going. 

PK


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## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

Hi PK,
Thanks for the reply! I actually made a tool to unscrew the damper cartiridge and spring assembly...that was the easy part. I tried to remove the washer with 4 tabs that holds the inner races but didn't have any luck. The bearings were really scuzed out form rust and dirty grease. I wound up removing the race retainers and just yanked the tubes apart...it was very difficult to do too. Anyways, I got it all apart and cleaned up. The races were in pretty bad shape but I don't see any reason I can't simply flip them over and use the good side. I have new "O" rings and ordered some new shaft seals for the damper assembly. When I took it apart I noticed some wear on the side of the spring. I was kind of surprised at the fact they just jam a big nut on the end of the preload adjuster and that's what makes contact with the spring. It looks to me like the spring scooted off to one side and thus the rubbing. When I get all of the parts I need, I'm going to reassemble it again. I'm sure there is some little trick to getting the bearings installed. I'm almost thinking you have to have the needle bearings 1/2 on and 1/2 off the lower tube as you slide them in the upper tube. I'm just wondering if that washer with the 4 tabs needs to be on there first or if it can be assembled after assembly somehow. Have you ever assembled one of these? An illustrated catalog would be awesome, and I'd gladly pay for copies if you'd be willing to do that. 
Steve


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofr.pdf

http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofr_replacblades.pdf

http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofrcart.pdf


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## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

Thanks for the pdf's but they really didn't help me much as far as assembly procedures. Would you have any more technical info on this fork?


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

As I said, I have never seen any published information about teardown and reassembly.

The fork is of the era when Cannondale would openly say that these were not field serviceable except cartridge and springs. I'd guess that on one hand you might count how many folks worked these forks to a full teardown outside of the factory.

FWIW, I have done many Headshok and Lefty fork rebuilds since the mid 90's. The Carbon Lefty is more difficult than a moto to do properly, but the moto ranks a close second. This moto was kind of the Lefty grandfather, it proved that the concept was rigid enough to single side a fork.

The info worth sharing is that if you did not mark each inner race for location, the fork and races need to be dimensionally checked and noted. The inner races come in different thicknesses, this is how the bearing clearance is set.

You need to accurately, using micrometers, measure across the flats of the lower legs. This will be four separate dimensions, two for each leg. The upper tubes inside across flat dimension must be accurately measured. Measure all your races, the outer races should all be the same thickness, inner should vary. I note on each cleaned race it's thickness with a tape label or sharpie.

Accomplish the math...Upper tube flat dim - Inner tube flat dim - roller OD - Outer race thickness = Inner race thickness

You may have differing thicknesses for each pair of flats, install the thicker races forward.

Try and not mix up the upper tubes left and right but also the vent hole orientations.

I installed tapered Lefty boots on our fork. Before doing all this, check those triple clamps for cracks, also check your spring color and condition of the MCU.

If you are a team over 300 pounds, chances are the spring and MCU will be too soft. This can be remedied but takes some creative rigging and for me some old Judy elastomers I had laying around.

Short of doing the work I don't know much more to offer help wise. We have tested other forks, and there are some that are simpler and better to ride and work on.

We still run rim brakes which limits us a bit on fork choices. I have another fork and plan to go big axle and disc on the front. Initially I wasn't going to do this, but was going to have some triple clamps made and spring wound. From testing though, I know a huge limit of this fork is progression, it is so dependent upon the elastomer to work well, and sadly these too would need to be dealt with.

Here if you need more. Some photos would help evaluate if it's worth it or not.

PK


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## steadite (Jan 13, 2007)

or, just send it to "mendon cyclesmith" (google search him).


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

I'm not sure Mendon does MOTO forks, the MOTO takes a special castle tool that not many shops ever bought, there just weren't enough of these forks to make it worth while. Bob Brown might though. 

Still if you can't get parts it's a non issue.

I've already looked for springs, no go.

PK


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Wanted to add, when you reassemble it, the clip for the inner races goes in after the telescopics are assembled.

Yes there is a special tool for installing and removing that clip. It can be done without it but it's not always fun. Maybe your local Cannondale shop has the tool since it's the same for a Lefty.

PK


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## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

PMK said:


> Wanted to add, when you reassemble it, the clip for the inner races goes in after the telescopics are assembled.
> 
> Yes there is a special tool for installing and removing that clip. It can be done without it but it's not always fun. Maybe your local Cannondale shop has the tool since it's the same for a Lefty.
> 
> PK


That's the kind of info I'm looking for...that and any other tricks for assembling the needle bearings.


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

masters40 said:


> That's the kind of info I'm looking for...that and any other tricks for assembling the needle bearings.


Beer, or some other sedative to keep you from tossing the thing out the garage door and down the driveway. I say this in jest, but honestly they are a huge PIA to do.

PK


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Stupid question where is the fork...USA, Europe, South America.

If you are just down the street I might be able to help.

PK


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## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

I'm located in Elkhart Lake, WI


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

How did you make out, is it back together? I know I wasn't able to offer any documents, but if you need more info ask and I'll see what I can add.

BTW, you are about 1500 miles from down the street. Sorry I won't be coming over for a beer while I offer encouragement as you put it back together.

PK


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## masters40 (Aug 18, 2009)

PMK said:


> How did you make out, is it back together? I know I wasn't able to offer any documents, but if you need more info ask and I'll see what I can add.
> 
> BTW, you are about 1500 miles from down the street. Sorry I won't be coming over for a beer while I offer encouragement as you put it back together.
> 
> PK


Actually I just got some bearings and the seals the other day. I haven't had time to tackle it yet though. I guess I am looking for advice as far as assembling the telescoping leg part. I'm guessing you have to start with the bearings hanging half way off and then slide everything together and then (somehow) install that 4 tabbed washer that retains the inner races. Getting any kind of answers from Cannondale was impossible.


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

masters40 said:


> Actually I just got some bearings and the seals the other day. I haven't had time to tackle it yet though. I guess I am looking for advice as far as assembling the telescoping leg part. I'm guessing you have to start with the bearings hanging half way off and then slide everything together and then (somehow) install that 4 tabbed washer that retains the inner races. Getting any kind of answers from Cannondale was impossible.


Correct on all points.

PK


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## tonymoto (May 12, 2011)

PMK said:


> http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofr.pdf
> 
> http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofr_replacblades.pdf
> 
> http://www.fastglass.net/bike/headshok/manuals/motofr/motofrcart.pdf


Hi PMK do you know if there are any more pdf files for this fork?


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Those were the same ones I had saved as favorites from when we ran one of the moto forks. If you need a manual, I do not believe Cannondale ever offered a complete manual for the moto. If you can work on a headshok or lefty, this is the same except twice as hard.

You do realize it may be impossible to get parts, except for the bearings.

You will also need the special long headshok tool to get it apart.

Seriously, and I work on a lot of different forks, save your money and efforts. If the fork works that's great, but if not and no spares are in hand, go buy something easy to work on and inexpensive.

PK


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## Climbernd (Apr 27, 2012)

I just took my 98 moto fr apart this weekend. I will be making a PDF with lots of high quality pictures and tips on how to service it this week when I get a chance. I researched it for a few weeks, looked at the 97 and before shop manual that was on line and dove in. It came out amazingly well and I am happy to say I will be running it for a long long time. Too nice not to keep it going. If you follow the tips, it is a very easy shock to work on. The key is knowing the tips. It was at a fix it yourself or make it a paper weight point since no one will trouch it for under a mint.


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Climbernd said:


> I just took my 98 moto fr apart this weekend. I will be making a PDF with lots of high quality pictures and tips on how to service it this week when I get a chance. I researched it for a few weeks, looked at the 97 and before shop manual that was on line and dove in. It came out amazingly well and I am happy to say I will be running it for a long long time. Too nice not to keep it going. If you follow the tips, it is a very easy shock to work on. The key is knowing the tips. It was at a fix it yourself or make it a paper weight point since no one will trouch it for under a mint.


We ran one of these on our 98 MT3000. Actually a very good fork once the shortcomings are overcome.

PK


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## Climbernd (Apr 27, 2012)

just finished. have to post 10 times to post a url as the pdf is hosted from my google drive so it will live on since i am hosting it myself. Time to make a few more posts and get this to the masses.


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## Climbernd (Apr 27, 2012)

#7 post just ignore


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## Climbernd (Apr 27, 2012)

rebuild and breakdown instructions for the moto fr.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B3xWHF04z7hAaE1LS2h4b0JZbkE


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## dano13 (Feb 11, 2008)

thanks for posting this.. i'm going to rebuild my fork this winter! cheers!


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

ok. I looked through the rebuild docs posted, but I am actually just wanting to replace my spring. The fork I got came with a blue spring, and a tool of some sort that looked about like a half pipe. Can someone point me in the direction of what leg the spring is in, and if this half pipe tool is used to crank open the top cap? Also can I swap the spring without having to completely take apart the fork?


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Typically the spring is in the right leg. It can be repositioned though, so which ever fork cap has the small plastic plug is the one with the spring.

The tool you describe sounds proper to remove the second internal cap that the spring seats against.

To remove the fork, you must loosen the upper pinch bolt and use a green pin spanner or similar tool. Then full compress the fork. Set preload to zero turns. Then use the pipe tool as you called it and a blue spanner to unwind the inner cap / spring seat.

Before you take the effort, I would take a close look for cracked triple clamps.

PK


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

PK-

I appreciate it. If you don't mind me asking though, what do you mean by cracked triple clamps? Is this fork prone to crack and put me in harms way, or are you talking about another option to tune this?


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Moto fork triple clamps are known to crack around the fastener counterbores.

The torque for the bolts is reasonably low, but typically get tightened too much. Combine this with a very thin profile of material, non radiused cuts and cracks can develop.

Yes this could put you in harms way.

Also, when you replace the spring, I assume you are going with a red spring, if you can increase the length of the elastomer inside the spring to match the springs length, the fork will ride higher, be less prone to hard bottoming and if on an early Cannondale frame, make the bike turn better.

PK


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

Thanks for the input on this. I will most certainly check this out. I am prone to overtighten stuff myself.

As far as the spring goes, the only one I have is a blue spring, so that may be all I get. fortunately I am a smaller rider and my 8 and 6 year old are on the back of this with me so we really are not as heavy as it could be. I do appreciate your advice on teh elestomer though. I will see what I can do on that.


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## arly (Apr 20, 2005)

Masters, Your not all that far from us up in Houghton MI. You should come up and ride with us sometime, least after you get the fork back together. We have visited some of the trails near your neck of the woods. PM us if you are ever interested....

Arlyn Aronson
Superior tandems 906-370-2911
The adventure dogs blog. The Trail Mutt Reports



masters40 said:


> I'm located in Elkhart Lake, WI


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## Rmabus (Jun 12, 2012)

I checked for cracking this weekend and got the spring replaced. The hardest part was getting the top cap off the inner spring tube so the special tool could fit down in the leg.

No visible cracks though.


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## PMK (Oct 12, 2004)

Rmabus said:


> I checked for cracking this weekend and got the spring replaced. The hardest part was getting the top cap off the inner spring tube so the special tool could fit down in the leg.
> 
> No visible cracks though.


You should not need to remove the cap from the rod. If you fully bottom the fork, the proper tool will slip in.

Regardless, awesome you got it done.

PK


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