# Need help figuring out what fork will fit my bike



## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

just got a diamondback overdrive 29er a few months ago. i have only been able to take it out twice, but from doing some research on here the front XCT fork is basically crap.

i was looking at a rockshox XC32TK or a X-Fusion Slide RL2R. Im open to suggestions to any other fork you guys would recommend around the $200 price range.

my big question is, when i am looking at forks how do i know what will fit my bike?

here is the exact bike i have:
Amazon.com: Diamondback 2012 Overdrive 29'er Mountain Bike (Black, 16-Inch/ Small): Sports & Outdoors

any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## mimi1885 (Aug 12, 2006)

The main thing you need to look for is the steerer size. Most Mtb headtube is 1.1/8", a few are 1.5" or the combo of the two, tapered steerer. So as long as the fork is 1.1/8" you are good to go.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

Any standard 1 1/8 29 fork will work. Looks like you have a qr 9mm up front. If you dont want to change hubs that is something else to keep in mind.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

great thanks guys. thats what i was thinking but dont want to find out if i was wrong or not once i already bought one. 

also what is a "dropout?" seen somebody refer to a 9mm or 15mm dropout. is that just the slot on the wheel side of the fork that the hub slides into?


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

My recommendation for folks who are asking these types of questions - go to a shop and see what they can do for you so you get the right thing. Sounds like a normal 1 and 1/8 steerer standard QR fork is what you need, easy to get and hard to mess-up in terms of online ordering. Will you be able to install it? You will have to be able to remove the crown race from the fork steerer and re-install on the new fork. The rest is fairly straightforward; factor in a front brake adjustment as well. Again, you may just get a better/easier deal walking into a shop and seeing what they can do for you.


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## chef7734 (May 4, 2011)

gregers05 said:


> great thanks guys. thats what i was thinking but dont want to find out if i was wrong or not once i already bought one.
> 
> also what is a "dropout?" seen somebody refer to a 9mm or 15mm dropout. is that just the slot on the wheel side of the fork that the hub slides into?


The dropout is how the fork connects to the wheel. I am pretty sure that is a 9mm quick release. My giant and fox fork uses a 15mm qr axle and some use 20mm. For 200.00 you could probably call suntour and get a epicon 29 fork using the upgrade program. It is a higher end fork and I hear great things about them.


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## Zuarte (Nov 21, 2010)

gregers05 said:


> great thanks guys. thats what i was thinking but dont want to find out if i was wrong or not once i already bought one.
> 
> also what is a "dropout?" seen somebody refer to a 9mm or 15mm dropout. is that just the slot on the wheel side of the fork that the hub slides into?


To elaborate on what Chef said, your bike has a 9mm "dropout", which means you simply pry open the cam lever, spin it around a few times to loosen it, and then the whole front wheel "drops" off the fork with the skewer (that metal rod you just loosened).

A 15mm system is entirely different, and is referred to as a "through axle". Instead of open flanges like at the bottom of your fork, through axle forks have closed tubes. The wheel's hub has a big hole that lines up with these tubes, and then the 15mm axle slides in to hold it together. The 15mm skewer is disengaged just like your 9mm, but you have to unscrew the whole axle and then yank it out before the wheel can come off.

Through axle systems are used for heavy duty applications (or 20mm for even heavier) because they provide more stiffness than a 9mm system.

The two systems are meant to use their own kinds of forks mated to a matching hub, and aren't cross compatible. 
(Technically, they sell adapter kits to make a thru axle hub work with 9mm, but for the sake of simplicity, let's not go there.)


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## cobba (Apr 5, 2007)

You can find 2012 Manitou Tower Expert forks for under $300 on ebay.


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## zeppy (May 21, 2011)

gregers05 said:


> just got a diamondback overdrive 29er a few months ago. i have only been able to take it out twice, but from doing some research on here the front XCT fork is basically crap.
> 
> i was looking at a rockshox XC32TK or a X-Fusion Slide RL2R. Im open to suggestions to any other fork you guys would recommend around the $200 price range.
> 
> ...


I'd question if you really *need* a new fork quite yet if you've only been out twice, to be honest.

That being said, though, because upgrading bikes is more addictive than crack, you could be patient and wait for sales online or on e-bay. The fork you have looks like it should be a standard 1 1/8" non-tapered steerer and 9mm QR dropouts. I spent a few weeks watching ebay and just picked up a Manitou Tower Pro for $216.50 [though it was lightly used]. If you can't get a deal on something higher end, the two you're looking at are a step up from what you have [I've had the 26" version and it's not horrible, but it's definitely not great] but not a gigantic step.


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## evasive (Feb 18, 2005)

Yup- as others have said, looks like a 1.125" straight steerer and 9mm QR dropouts. That kind of fork should be pretty easy to find. I've been impressed with X-Fusion's recent products, personally. Don't overlook the comment above about the little chores involved with changing forks- setting the crown race and star nut, cutting the steerer tube and setting up your front brake again. None of that is too difficult, and there are loads of online info sources, so you shouldn't let that stop you if you're moderately handy. Upgrading is fun, and it makes the bike more your own. 

All that aside, like zeppy, I wonder if maybe you should give the fork a little more time if you've only been out a couple times. The important question is: do YOU think it's crap? I wouldn't worry too much about what you pick up while doing your research here.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

lots of good info guys, thanks!

i going to ride on it for a little while longer, until i get a little more comfortable with the more advanced trails. For the tails i am starting out on, the fork is okay, but definitely a little "spongy" or "springy" and the damping doesnt help at all. I just wanted to get an idea of what forks I should be looking at.

is there a write-up or something on changing forks? I am pretty mechanically inclined, so not worried about not being able to do it myself, just want to know what to expect.


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

gregers05 said:


> lots of good info guys, thanks!
> 
> i going to ride on it for a little while longer, until i get a little more comfortable with the more advanced trails. For the tails i am starting out on, the fork is okay, but definitely a little "spongy" or "springy" and the damping doesnt help at all. I just wanted to get an idea of what forks I should be looking at.
> 
> is there a write-up or something on changing forks? I am pretty mechanically inclined, so not worried about not being able to do it myself, just want to know what to expect.


I'll be honest, I didn't watch this all the way but it appears to be a good place to start:





From watching that, if you have any questions just post them up. At least by watching you'll have a good starting point to know what else you might want to ask.

The keys to buying a fork:
- Is the steerer tube the same diameter and type as you need? (1 1/8", tapered, 1.5"...)
- Is the fork built for your wheel size? (can't put a 29" mountain tire in a 26" fork)
- Is the fork the proper amount of travel for your frame? (typically not to exceed 20mm more than your current fork. May want to contact the manufacturer to see if changing travel affects your warranty. Changing travel changes the way the bike handles, be aware of what that means because it can be neutral, good, or bad depending on what you like.)
- Is the steerer tube at least as long as your current fork? (doesn't usually apply if buying new)
- Can the fork accept the same type of brake that you are using or plan to use?
- Is the fork you are buying an actual upgrade? I like to make sure I'm buying a fork that I can change the oil on and replace the seals myself. Even if the damping circuit was an improvement, if it's not user serviceable for typical service then I would pass on it. If you don't plan on doing service yourself then ignore that.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

The Epicon from Suntour is a nice fork, but a little out of his budget at $275 for the 29er version with the upgrade program. Then he has to factor in that the Epicon is a 15mm Thru Axle fork...so he would need a new hub/wheel build just to be able to use it, which jacks the price up even more.

gregers05, consider going to a shop and having them contact SR Suntour about the fork upgrade program they have. You could get a Raidon 29er fork, which is an air fork with rebound and remote lock out, for $175 with the upgrade program. While a fork install isn't hard, if you don't have any experience doing it, you could run into the issue of cutting the steer tube crooked or even cutting it too much. Not to mention you have to deal with setting a new star nut and installing the crown race...again, not difficult, but easy to mess up. A shop shouldn't charge much at all for the install. 

IMO the Raidon would be a good upgrade for you and would feel better than the XCT. I just ordered up a Raidon for a customer, who has the exact same XCT fork you currently have, a few days ago. Once that arrives and I get it installed on his bike, I'll report back with some feedback on the fork.


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## TiGeo (Jul 31, 2008)

gregers05 said:


> lots of good info guys, thanks!
> 
> i going to ride on it for a little while longer, until i get a little more comfortable with the more advanced trails. For the tails i am starting out on, the fork is okay, but definitely a little "spongy" or "springy" and the damping doesnt help at all. I just wanted to get an idea of what forks I should be looking at.
> 
> is there a write-up or something on changing forks? I am pretty mechanically inclined, so not worried about not being able to do it myself, just want to know what to expect.


As I said above (without this level of detail):

Remove front brake caliper from fork.

Remove stem - probably need to somehow attach handlebar to something while you do the work - using a repair stand is the best way. Be careful - the fork may just fall out when you do this! Also be cognizant of the way the bearing came out; I would zip tie them carefully through the head tube of the bike so they don't get mixed up or installed backwards.

You will need to remove the crown race of the headset from the fork; you can do this with a good center-punch being careful and working a little at a time around the race.

You will need to re-install the crown race on the new fork; you should use a slide hammer to do this. You can make your own out of metal pipe but the end can't be jagged! Always use a mallet, not a hammer! Grease the steerer at the crown before re-installing the race.

Measure the steerer tube of the old fork and cut down the new fork steerer to match; if you want more available for stem adjustments, now is the time! You can always cut it long and use spacers and then trim it down later when you get your cockpit to where you need it if you don't like the way the extra spacers work. A pipe cutter works well and will ensure a clean, straight cut. A shop may use a cutting guide and a hack saw.

You will need to install a new star nut into the steerer; make sure you pick one up and it is the right diameter! 1 and 1/8 and made to fit an either steel or aluminum steerer tube (the aluminum ones often have a smaller I.D. than the steel ones and require a different star nut). A shop uses a special tool that threads into the star nut and allows you to set it in the steerer accurately. I have used a small screw driver that will go through the hole in the middle and just pounded it in - it can go in crooked this way so be careful!

Re-install fork, headset bearings (in the right orientation!), stem/handlebar, and caliper. Zip-tie brake line to fork.

Set the pre-load on the top-cap so that there is no play in the headset and tighten/align everything.

Adjust front caliper alignment.

Ride.

I think I captured it all. Again, while I understand you want to do this yourself and it isn't particularly complicated, just see what a shop charges...it may be worth it to pay someone. If you f-up the steerer..you ruin the fork. Finally, this is the time to replace the headset if it is a cheapie or isn't smooth. Getting the old cups out and installing new ones will require special tools that you can buy or make.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

TiGeo said:


> As I said above (without this level of detail):
> 
> Remove front brake caliper from fork.
> 
> ...


great thanks for that! i havent watched the video posted earlier yet either since i was as work then. ill watch in tomorrow. sounds like there is a lot more to than i expected. still confident i could do it, but depending on how much a shop charges it may be worth it to save the time and effort and make sure its done right.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

To re-visit my previous comment on the SR Suntour upgrade, I received and installed the Raidon on my customer's bike. For the cost involved, this was quite a bit of an upgrade to the XCT fork. $150 for air, rebound, remote lockout, and 32mm stanchions IMO was well worth it for this guy.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

owensjs said:


> To re-visit my previous comment on the SR Suntour upgrade, I received and installed the Raidon on my customer's bike. For the cost involved, this was quite a bit of an upgrade to the XCT fork. $150 for air, rebound, remote lockout, and 32mm stanchions IMO was well worth it for this guy.


great. that is good to know. I will probably look at doing that in the next few weeks. Do they you the new for then you send the old one back? Or do you have to send the old one in first?


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## GelatiCruiser (Oct 11, 2012)

If your budget is $200,I would look at maybe getting the Recon Gold TK for $249 from Cross Lake Sales. Would be a great upgrade.


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

gregers05 said:


> great. that is good to know. I will probably look at doing that in the next few weeks. Do they you the new for then you send the old one back? Or do you have to send the old one in first?


You don't have to send the old one back. They will need the serial number from your XCT fork and you have to have proof of purchase on the bike, and also agree to not sell the fork to a 3rd party. You can call them directly yourself, or have a shop call them.


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## HillClimber823 (Jun 21, 2012)

WOW, I think that he needed a bigger hammer......

I bang on my bike but not with a steel hammer, I use a mallet.


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## GelatiCruiser (Oct 11, 2012)

Why is it that I can only find one MTBR review on the Rock Shock Recon Gold TK? For $249 am I putting my money towards the wrong fork? Seems like a nice fork...well, better than my XCT V3 at any rate...and $249 is a good price (seemingly) for a new fork. I'm sure with some diligence I could "get a Reba" for somewhere near the same price (prob >$300), but am I "settling" for a fork if I go with the Recon Gold? And can someone explain the difference between the RL and the TK? Thanks!


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## owensjs (May 21, 2009)

GelatiCruiser said:


> Why is it that I can only find one MTBR review on the Rock Shock Recon Gold TK? For $249 am I putting my money towards the wrong fork? Seems like a nice fork...well, better than my XCT V3 at any rate...and $249 is a good price (seemingly) for a new fork. I'm sure with some diligence I could "get a Reba" for somewhere near the same price (prob >$300), but am I "settling" for a fork if I go with the Recon Gold? And can someone explain the difference between the RL and the TK? Thanks!


Biggest difference is the RL has a handlebar mounted remote lockout, where the TK has the turn key lockout, which you have to manually turn the lockout knob by hand on your fork.

In my limited experience with the Recon it's a pretty decent fork. A Reba would obviously be a nicer option. If you have an XCT V3, almost any air fork would be a drastic upgrade for you. Any reason you aren't considering the Suntour upgrade? Damn, I almost seem like a Suntour fanboy with the amount of times I've mentioned them in this thread haha.


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## GelatiCruiser (Oct 11, 2012)

owensjs said:


> Biggest difference is the RL has a handlebar mounted remote lockout, where the TK has the turn key lockout, which you have to manually turn the lockout knob by hand on your fork.
> 
> In my limited experience with the Recon it's a pretty decent fork. A Reba would obviously be a nicer option. If you have an XCT V3, almost any air fork would be a drastic upgrade for you. Any reason you aren't considering the Suntour upgrade? Damn, I almost seem like a Suntour fanboy with the amount of times I've mentioned them in this thread haha.


A couple of reasons. Mainly because I think the Epicon (which would run me the same price as the Recon Gold...~$250) only ships with the 15mm TA and I don't want to have to upgrade my wheel to get a new fork. And because the Recon is just under 4lbs, which would shave off 2 lbs on my 35lb ride. I'm not a weight weenie, but if I can shave off 2 lbs, get an air fork with lockout and rebound all for around $250, seems like a win-win to me.


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## gregers05 (Jan 30, 2013)

GelatiCruiser said:


> A couple of reasons. Mainly because I think the Epicon (which would run me the same price as the Recon Gold...~$250) only ships with the 15mm TA and I don't want to have to upgrade my wheel to get a new fork. And because the Recon is just under 4lbs, which would shave off 2 lbs on my 35lb ride. I'm not a weight weenie, but if I can shave off 2 lbs, get an air fork with lockout and rebound all for around $250, seems like a win-win to me.


did you look into the suntour Raidon? that is the one I am looking at upgrading to. It is around $175 with the upgrade program mentioned above. It is an air shock as well.

If i dont get teh Raidon the TK Gold would be my next choice.


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