# ParkTool PRS-25 v Feedback Pro Elite



## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*ParkTool PRS-25 v Feedback Pro Elite + PRS 3.2-2*

Done my research on these stands, looking for anymore info. They both get great reviews. Leaning towards the Park. I think it comes down to the clamp in the end. They are both within the same ballpark price-wise.

Pics appreciated


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

I looked at the Park PRS-25 and the PCS-10. I went the -10 because I didn't see the price premium for the -25. I've been very happy with the Park. It gets used as a wash stand with some regularity. 

I did not consider the triangle based stands because two friends have them and for my personal take, they didn't seem as stable as the Park style. These are not conclusive evaluations, just a personal opinion.


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## mfa81 (Apr 1, 2011)

love my pro elite! never used park so cannot compare! I actually really like the clamp on the feedback with the push release!

push release detail, can also push to lock the bike and turn the star to get it tight










also got this handy tool tray


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

The premium for the 25 over the 10 is aluminum vs steel and a better clamp. Not to say the 10 wouldn't work fine. 

I do like that tooltray on the FB, looks better than park, and the stand can go about a foot higher. 

Still torn though, might try to find a store that displays these. They can both clamp and hold a bike and should last for many years. Reading all the reviews I can find.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Well I went ahead and ordered the Park. Not a ton of info on that one compared to feedback so I figure I'll go ahead and give it a go. Got the tool tray too. Will post up some pics and initial impressions when it arrives.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*It has arrived*

Pretty easy to setup, just open the legs and attach the clamp. Light and easy to move around. The clamp works great, easy to adjust and release the bike. I attached to the frame for now since I had no room on the seatpost. Bike was stable in the stand, rocked a little when spinning up the cranks and braking but nothing major.

btw my old method was to use 2 saw-horses and a long piece of wood to get the bike off the ground. Worked pretty well actually.

So here are a few pics I took. Not the best but...camera phone + basement. Also time for spring cleaning!


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

*Update*

The PRS-25 is no more, another stand stands in its place 

First let me give my final thoughts on the 25. Boxing it up I was somewhat sad to see it go. The hex-aluminum construction is impressive. The stand is quite stable and lightweight. But for me one thing let it down.

The top tube assembly where the clamp connects to the stand. Besides having a plastic shell (it would be nice to have aluminum on a premium stand), if I want the front end up while clamped at the saddle, I have to really tighten the handle to keep it from rotating. Even then it could slowly slip during use. I would like to see this same stand with a better head design, and would gladly have paid another $50 to have it.

So what did I do?

Well I ordered the PRS 3.2.2 of course! Now this stand is considerably more expensive, not portable, and weighs a good deal more. But it is quite a sight to behold. It was the stand I initially had my eyes on. I am still waiting for the 70lb baseplate to arrive, but I got the stand today and it is impressive to say the least. Chrome steel, metal on metal, and a pretty kick ass cast aluminum work tray.

So here are some pics, will update when the base arrives.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Next, you're opening a bike shop?


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Cleared2land said:


> Next, you're opening a bike shop?


Step right up, my rates are exorbitant!


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## RTM (Sep 17, 2005)

realize I'm late to the party but I wanted to add an endorsement for the pro-elite in case anyone reads this in the future. I've used mine extensively for over 10 years. with a little maintenance and TLC its still going strong. I prefer the tripod style for portability. have taken mine on weekend trips, races, to work at friends houses, etc. A good workstand is absolutely essential and life is too short to buy crappy tools. Smart to spend "too much" on the best stand you can get for your needs.


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## Cleared2land (Aug 31, 2012)

Gezzz...I don't know what it would be like to have a pro bike stand. Very cool!


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

It's very nice! I used it to install/bleed a brake and install a front derailleur and didn't even notice the stand. It worked really well and was effortless.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

Please don't clamp your frame tubes.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Apparently the feedback clamp will also fit this stand


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

dundundata said:


> View attachment 1131470


Amazing stand. I am eyeing one of these to replace my PC-10 in the shop - and use the PC-10 exclusively for outdoor bike cleaning.

One question - why did you go with the winding clamp vs. the lever clamp of the 3.2-1? Probably my least favorite feature of the PC-10 is that winding clamp.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

That's really a preference thing. I've used all 3 clamps and don't really have a problem with any of them.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

DriverB said:


> Amazing stand. I am eyeing one of these to replace my PC-10 in the shop - and use the PC-10 exclusively for outdoor bike cleaning.
> 
> One question - why did you go with the winding clamp vs. the lever clamp of the 3.2-1? Probably my least favorite feature of the PC-10 is that winding clamp.


The old Park tool one that you typically see works great. But you have to get the hand screw just right so you have the clamp pressure on it where you want it. This is what I've used for 20 years at shops and home.

Pros- it's been around for 30-40+ years. You can find parts easily. No hassle really. It works and it's reliable. There's not much to break on them really.
Cons- It might take 2-3 times before you get the tension right while holding the bike up. Tall jaws. This means that all DH, bmx and most dept. store bikes need the seat raised before they'll fit in the stand.

Park 100-3d- We have one of these on a folding repair stand. The winding handle is more convenient than the traditional Park clamp, but the leverage of the handle is weak. For example- If the front wheel is level or facing up at all, you have to really push on the lever to get the bike to lift up. The traditional one had 4-5 time the leverage, so this wasn't a problem.

Pros- Quicker than the traditional Park.
Cons- Harder to clamp than the traditional Park.

Feedback Sports Pro Elite 16022- It clamps faster than the Park ones. Pick up the bike and push it in. The clamp screw on the face will adjust the tension. It's also a lot lower profile. You can get away without raising the seatpost on more bikes than the park one. Loosen the clamp screw a turn or two and push the release button and it pops all the way out releasing the bike. It also sticks out farther from the tool tray than the Park ones. Sometimes when spinning the cranks the pedal would hit the tool tray when using the Park one. This doesn't seem to happen anymore though on modern Park stands. The Feedback ones the shop used had the spring that opens the clamp break inside.

Pros- Clamps the quickest. Fine adjustment. Quick release. Low profile so it works on lower seatpost. Sticks out farther than Park.
Cons- Sticks out farther than Park (limited space can be an issue). The spring broke in the ones at the shop after 2-3 years. I'm not sure if they're replaceable or not or how readily available they are, but they're inside the arm. Parks arms are still going strong after 20+ years.

Ttyl, Fahn


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

LarryFahn said:


> .
> 
> Ttyl, Fahn


Great write up, appreciate the thoughts!

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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

They don't make it anymore, but Park used to have a home work stand with a clamp similar to their traditional one, but with the adjusting nut replaced with a strong spring. It allowed the clamp to automatically adjust to a range of sizes. It was super fast and worked really well. The only downside was for bigger jumps in clamping diameter you had to fiddle with some bolts. It makes me sad they don't use that clamp anymore.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

That sounds great. Despite the size vs seat tube issue, I am dying for a true clamped like the 3.2-1. I can see how the adjustment could be a pain if you cycle bikes all the time (like in an actual bike shop). 

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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

The clamp on the pcs10 is not the same. The 1003d clamp that came on my 3.2 is very nice. You can get the older style if you prefer, I haven't tried it. I do like how the micro adjust clamp needs less clamping space. I debated it myself but I had tried the micro adjust before and liked it. 

As far as clamping I always tilt the front wheel down, where gravity wants to bring it, when clamping/unclamping. This makes it very easy to take the bike on/off the stand.

I really love the clamp that holds the clamp. You can set the bike in any position and it remains solid.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

bad mechanic said:


> They don't make it anymore, but Park used to have a home work stand with a clamp similar to their traditional one, but with the adjusting nut replaced with a strong spring. It allowed the clamp to automatically adjust to a range of sizes. It was super fast and worked really well. The only downside was for bigger jumps in clamping diameter you had to fiddle with some bolts. It makes me sad they don't use that clamp anymore.


I used to have that Park PCS-1 work stand, bought it back in early 2000's I think. But I eventually came to hate that clamp and a few years ago bought a Feedback Pro Elite stand to replace it. The Feedback clamp is much faster and easier to use. I have too many bikes with varying tube diameters to deal with the thumbscrew removal adjustment on that Park clamp. But I agree if you are only using it for one bike or bikes with similar sized tubes to clamp then the Park is very fast to use.

I also appreciate the height adjustment of the Feedback stand, as my Park stand was a fixed height and too low for drivetrain work.

Park clamp:


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

JustMtnB44 said:


> But I agree if you are only using it for one bike or bikes with similar sized tubes to clamp then the Park is very fast to use.
> View attachment 1159763


I only ever clamp seatposts, and I haven't found a seatpost diameter which I had to adjust the clamp for.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

Amen, never clamp the frame! 

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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

DriverB said:


> Amen, never clamp the frame!


Exactly!


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

LarryFahn said:


> Cons- It might take 2-3 times before you get the tension right while holding the bike up.


I find it much easier to clamp the bike on the ground and then slip the clamp assembly and bike into the stand.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

bad mechanic said:


> Exactly!


one time i did it, one time!


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

DriverB said:


> Amen, never clamp the frame!


Depends on the frame and circumstances, clamping most steel or aluminum frames on the seat tube won't hurt anything except decals and possibly the paint. That said I always use the seatpost whenever possible and never clamp over a decal unless it's a beater bike and I'm sure the owner isn't particular about such things.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

J.B. Weld said:


> I find it much easier to clamp the bike on the ground and then slip the clamp assembly and bike into the stand.


Why on God's earth somebody would do this, I have no idea.


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## J.B. Weld (Aug 13, 2012)

LarryFahn said:


> Why on God's earth somebody would do this, I have no idea.


Because it's a lot easier?

It's possible I'm on a different page, I thought you were referring to this type of clamp-


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

J.B. Weld said:


> Because it's a lot easier?
> 
> It's possible I'm on a different page, I thought you were referring to this type of clamp-
> 
> View attachment 1160157


That clamp is my dream in life. It would make everything complete!

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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

bad mechanic said:


> I only ever clamp seatposts, and I haven't found a seatpost diameter which I had to adjust the clamp for.





DriverB said:


> Amen, never clamp the frame!


How's that work with dropper posts? I'm not willing to find out, so clamping to the frame is necessary.
Since the Park clamp in my picture uses the spring, you can't finely control the clamping force which I agree isn't great for frame tubes.
But since the clamping force can be carefully dialed in on the Feedback clamp it is not an issue.



J.B. Weld said:


> Depends on the frame and circumstances, clamping most steel or aluminum frames on the seat tube won't hurt anything except decals and possibly the paint. That said I always use the seatpost whenever possible and never clamp over a decal unless it's a beater bike and I'm sure the owner isn't particular about such things.


I'm such a terrible mechanic I clamp to the top tube and partially over the decals all of the time! Mostly because modern MTBs, especially any full suspension bike, has no room to grab the seat tube anyway.


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## DriverB (Apr 29, 2014)

JustMtnB44 said:


> How's that work with dropper posts?.


It works fine. It's a seatpost and thus meant to be clamped. You of course need to unscrew and extend your post so you aren't clamping the stantion if that wasn't clear. Some might view this as a pain, if you had your post right where you want it.

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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

DriverB said:


> It works fine. It's a seatpost and thus meant to be clamped. You of course need to unscrew and extend your post so you aren't clamping the stantion if that wasn't clear. Some might view this as a pain, if you had your post right where you want it.


Again, exactly!

If you need to move your seatpost to clamp it, put some tape around it at the height it's supposed to be at. Seatposts are meant to be clamped, frame tubes are not.


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## gpeden (Nov 17, 2014)

JustMtnB44 said:


> How's that work with dropper posts? I'm not willing to find out, so clamping to the frame is necessary.


Because there are warnings about over-tightening seat post clamps on my Command Post IRcc dropper and because I do not want to possibly degrade its performance, I always swap in the original seat post for clamping in in my Pro Elite stand or to bring it to the bike shop. Fortunately it only takes a minute or two to do that. There is a lot of force put on the post when swinging the bike front up towards the ceiling. Consequently for drivetrain maintenance, lubing I simply hang the nose of the seat off the clamp to get the rear wheel in the air 

Cheers!
Glen


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

DriverB said:


> It works fine. It's a seatpost and thus meant to be clamped. You of course need to unscrew and extend your post so you aren't clamping the stanchion if that wasn't clear. Some might view this as a pain, if you had your post right where you want it.


Yeah it is a pain to readjust all the time, and something I'm not going to do for a two minute chain lube job in the stand. I'm actually seeing more people just clamping on the stanchion of the dropper post; as long as it is fully extended, everything is clean and/or protected, and the bike is not hanging in a weird position it seems to be fine.



bad mechanic said:


> If you need to move your seatpost to clamp it, put some tape around it at the height it's supposed to be at. Seatposts are meant to be clamped, frame tubes are not.


Who says frame tubes are not meant to be clamped? Do owner's manuals say this? Are frame warranties void if the frame has been clamped in a stand?



gpeden said:


> Because there are warnings about over-tightening seat post clamps on my Command Post IRcc dropper and because I do not want to possibly degrade its performance, I always swap in the original seat post for clamping in in my Pro Elite stand or to bring it to the bike shop. Fortunately it only takes a minute or two to do that. There is a lot of force put on the post when swinging the bike front up towards the ceiling.


Some dropper posts may be easy to swap, but most are not and would be way too much hassle to do every time you want to put your bike on a stand.

To each their own, but I am not messing with my seatpost every time I need to put my bike in the stand for a two minute adjustment or chain lube. Clamping on the frame tubes is fine as long as appropriate care is used. I have never damaged a tube, let alone decals or paint. This is also why I like the Feedback Pro Elite clamp, and you can dial in the minimum amount of force needed to keep the bike from moving and no more. I really don't like the old school big lever Park clamp (esp the version on the old PCS-1) as it is easy to apply either an unknown amount or way too much clamping force. The newer Park micro adjust clamps also allow for this fine adjustment so it seems like the Park PRS-25 and Feedback Pro Elite are nearly equal at this point, it's more personal preference.


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## LarryFahn (Jul 19, 2005)

JustMtnB44 said:


> Who says frame tubes are not meant to be clamped? Do owner's manuals say this? Are frame warranties void if the frame has been clamped in a stand?


The manufacturers. Scott bikes have 3 warning tags hanging on them. The one attached to the seatstays/swing arm states that the tubes are not meant to be clamped on or the Warranty is void.

That said, I've taken many carbon and aluminum frames over the years that I've "held in place", but not clamped on, using the traditional Park clamp. I cover the Top tube with a car polishing rag (lint free or whatever), turn the clamp horizontally, open it up to the max, put the top tube in the clamp at its balance point and then use the thumb screw to tighten it in place. NOT the lever.

This works for the typical maintenance stuff, wheel truing, derailleur and brake adjustments (as long as the cables don't run along the top tube). Cons- The bike isn't really secure, no torquing and the bike is unusually higher up. It's not ideal, but when road bikes have an areo-post and need a minor adjustment, is it really necessary to remove the post, install the Park shim post, put it in the stand, remove the shim post, figure out where exactly their post was, and pull out the torque wrench? Cause their FD was rubbing in 1 gear...

Ttyl, Fahn


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