# KS eten?



## VtVolk (Jul 11, 2011)

Has anyone taken the plunge on the new cheap KS eten dropper?

Its for sale online as low as $126 with the remote. Pinkbike did a write up, but there's basically no info on the interwebs with actual rider experience. It seems the biggest downside is the potential weight, but since this is the AM forum and we ride big boy bikes, that's not so much of an issue for me. 

Sure, I could buy a reverb, lev, etc., but the eten is less than half the price. I could theoretically buy two and have one in use while the other is off getting warranty repairs at KS!

I'm really looking for eten feedback/experience and not what you have or what I should buy instead.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

It has essentially the same internals as their other products - the biggest drawback is it appears to only be available in 100mm - I prefer a 150mm that my LEV provides. Its clamping mechanism for the saddle is similar to the i950, not like the new LEV head.

The remote is not the nice "carbon" unit that the LEV has, but it is still the same shape/has the same functionality. I do not believe the remote is ODI compatible either (The LEV remote replaced one of the ODI clamps on ODI grips)


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## bamr33 (Jun 2, 2012)

I had/have a Reverb 125mm drop but then bent the post and snapped the actuator off. So instead of rebuilding the reverb and buying another actuator I bought the eten.

I've got to say I'm happy with it, I have noticed the travel reduction going from 125mm to 100mm particularly on dh tracks, not quite as low as I'd like, but good enough. Also being 25mm shorter there is less slack cable hanging around the bike, always good. Out of the box it has a similar amount of side to side movement as the reverb, not noticeable riding. 

The action of the unit is smooth and quick, which I wasn't expecting from a cable operated unit and it's easy to setup. The actuator is a bit povo looking but the good thing is, being cable operated I can always improvise something if it breaks as apposed to the hydraulic reverb. 

The weight difference, meh... don't care didn't weigh either one, it's an all-mountain bike after all not a xc race bike. It also has a single bolt seat clamp that doesn't squeak like the two bolt reverb did. I have had no issues with the post losing pressure or jamming but I've only had this seatpost for a month or less so can't comment on longevity. 

Overall I think it's a great looking unit with excellent functionality and very cheap. I would buy another one over any dropper on the market due to the price and my tendency to break things, hope this helps.


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## VtVolk (Jul 11, 2011)

Thanks Bamr, exactly what I was looking for. 

Anyone one else with long(er) term experience?


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

I have both the Reverb and eTen. So far i've only used it for 2 trail rides and noticed the seat does not always come all the way to the top when the trail gets rough. This might have something to do with the open bath cartridge. The manual says that inverting the seatpost may cause air and oil to mix and may result in temporary suspension action. It also says to cycle the seatpost a few times and wait a few minutes for the air and oil to return to their normal operating positions. I have not had enough rides to see if the post just needed to be broken in or if it's a fact of life.

Overall for the price I paid, I am so far quite happy. I could purchase 3 of the eTens for the price of a Reverb so i'm not too worried about reliability. After all, i'm cover by the warranty.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

BTW, one annoying thing is that the remote cabling attaches to the front of the post instead of the rear. The cable bunches up on the top tube when the seat is at the bottom. I ended up wrapping the cable around the post which seems to work.


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## bamr33 (Jun 2, 2012)

sand wedge said:


> I have both the Reverb and eTen. So far i've only used it for 2 trail rides and noticed the seat does not always come all the way to the top when the trail gets rough.


Are you sure you have the cable adjusted correctly? Have a look while pressing the actuator that the lever thing under seat is getting full travel up and down.



sand wedge said:


> BTW, one annoying thing is that the remote cabling attaches to the front of the post instead of the rear. The cable bunches up on the top tube when the seat is at the bottom. I ended up wrapping the cable around the post which seems to work.


I thought that was a good thing to be honest, less chance of mud and grit being sprayed up into the cable and lever area. If you use a cable tie or a plastic p clamp on the bolt that goes through the seatpost clamp it can guide cable quite nicely without having it bunch up.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

bamr33 said:


> Are you sure you have the cable adjusted correctly? Have a look while pressing the actuator that the lever thing under seat is getting full travel up and down.
> 
> I thought that was a good thing to be honest, less chance of mud and grit being sprayed up into the cable and lever area. If you use a cable tie or a plastic p clamp on the bolt that goes through the seatpost clamp it can guide cable quite nicely without having it bunch up.


Yup, the cable is fine, this does not happen riding on smooth surfaces. I'll have to give it a few more rides.

I have my post pretty much all the way into the frame so it more of an issue for me but i can see it would be an advantage in muddy situations.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

Yup, when it gets rough, the post does not want to come all the way up. Maybe an inch short. I then cycle the seat down and up and all is good again. Not complaining much, the positives still out weigh the negatives.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

jsut got mine today and installed it. I can confirm it doesn't have the odi compatible lock ring for your grips but that is of little consequence to me. as far as cable bunching up, mine came with a ziptie and a plastic guide to place around the seatpost. from there, I just ran the cable along the cable stops with my brake/shifters and it seems good. I wont get it out on the trail for a couple days since we got a lot of rain going on. I paid close attention to how I installed the cable to make sure I got full engagement of the lever and the post seems to go up and down flawlessly. I paid $140 from arts cyclery, considering a new thompson post goes for $100 this seems to be a great deal and with a 2 year warranty should it break, I'll probably just buy a new one while I wait for it to get serviced and then I can have another one for another bike or just sell the refurbished one.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Did my first ride on it yesterday. I was having the same issue of not always getting that last inch or so of travel. it was only a minor annoyance and for the price point of this dropper post vs others I would certainly not let it dissuade me from buying it. I'm 6'3 and riding an xl yelli screamy and I'm still a bit of a newb to the mtb game and having some issues with my setup being comfortable with my knees but that is more because I could use a bit more setback or perhaps just shorter 170 mm cranks (I have a torn acl in my left knee and some meniscus damage in the right so the mashing aspect of some of MTB isn't the greatest for me but it's just too much fun" If i find I continue to have this problem, I will probably just raise my post up out of the frame a little bit, I'd rather have it be slightly too high when I'm pedaling flats and going up hills than have it be too low and the 4 inches of drop is plenty for my riding. Early impressions I give this dropper an A- because the cost is just so low it really scores in the value dept.


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## philipb (Aug 4, 2008)

I got an eten a week a go and have been on 5 rides with it. It works perfectly, goes all the way down and all the way back up, nice and smooth,. The remote works perfectly I got it for $138.00 from Art's Cyclery. This is the best money I have spent on my bike in quite a while. The only thing I would change is the clamp. It is a single bolt and is harder to adjust than a dual bolt design. It does hold my seat in place though (no slop) and I weigh 210 LBS.


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## VtVolk (Jul 11, 2011)

Yep, I pulled the trigger on an eTen shortly after starting this thread. I weigh 200 and ride hard. I have bent three seats in the past year and a half, and started thinking that getting that thing out of the way more often would be a good thing. The eTen works flawlessly, and I honestly couldn't point out a single thing I would improve or could justify spending more money on. Yes, there is a single bolt clamp, but it's very easy to adjust in my experience and stays tight. As others have said about droppers in general, I almost can't remember how I managed to ride without one. I use it constantly to make micro adjustments to seat height trail riding, and slam it for sustained downhills. It makes such a huge difference to be able to raise or drop it 2mm for a hard climb or a slow techy rock garden that still requires strong pedaling. Hopefully, this holds up well in the long run, but if and when it goes in under warranty for service, I'm seriously going to probably just buy a second one and cycle them. Hands down, best $126 I've ever spent on my bike. And a buddy picked one up for $105 in a different diameter that fit his Enduro.


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## slipitysmooth (Feb 17, 2013)

Can anyone that has one measure the min insertion distance from the rails to the line? I wanna get one of these however not sure if my setup would allow, with the total being only 385MM, I have about 225MM of exposed seat post to my rails currently, is this a big enough post? Thanks for the help.


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## MTBCanuck (May 19, 2011)

also recently bought the eten for my yeti 575 AM build. Smooth action and unbeatable quality at the price. This post is a game changer for the dropper market.


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## Bogdan_mb (Apr 1, 2013)

Anyone looking for the "inside" of the eTen here is a video (that also shows how to service it ) :






Here is the video probably most know but just to compare it to the dropzone / super natural :

KS Service Video - SN and DZ 720p Web.mov - YouTube

I'm also interested to get one but I'm not sure what to choose :

eTen : 100 mm travel for the price of 90 euros
or 
Dropzone : 125 travel for the price of 130 euros

Does the later one worth the extra $$$ ? (They both come with lever and 31.6 size which I need)


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Bogdan_mb said:


> Anyone looking for the "inside" of the eTen here is a video (that also shows how to service it ) :
> 
> 
> 
> ...


the drop zone costs you 50% more for 25% travel, only you know if your style of riding really makes that necessary. for me personally, I can't imagine needing more drop than what the eten gives me but I'm also a newb and a relatively tame rider. others may be different. what drew me to the eten is that it may actually be BETTER for me because its cheap because it's constructed from heavier steel parts. Generally speaking steel means better durability and I'm 250 lbs


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## Bogdan_mb (Apr 1, 2013)

I've made a measure before and 100 mm should be fine for me now , but I don't know in the future if the extra length will help or not, following the simple rule of : more is better I have to think from the beginning , since I cannot make it longer afterwards .

I have some other details that turn my balance in favor of the Dropzone since my bike is white with red accents that extra touch on the collar would look nice and also I have this grips on my bike : Cannondale D3 Lock-on Grips with White Rings - KA041/WHT - CannondaleExperts.com - https://www.cannondale-parts.de/Web...2A/9885/ED29/5972/C0A8/29BB/1882/DSCN6521.JPG that have a similar system like Odi ( I don't know if it's the same) but the idea of fixing the lever on the end of the grips sounds good.

But these details doesn't mean much to me , I was just curious if there are noticeable performance difference between them. Forgot to mention my weight is around 165 - 170 lbs.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I bit the bullet and ordered one. I'm pretty stoke to have a dropped, I just dont bother with my seat anymore and leave it in a ridable position all the time now.


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## NorCalRider76 (Jul 11, 2012)

I just got done installing the eTen. Its my first dropper, and my only other experience with a drop post is friends bikes (RS Reverb & CB Kronolog). With all the stories Ive read here, and the issues my friends have had, I was hesitant, but the price of the post made it worth the risk. The installation was a no brainer...was kinda concerned while reading the instructions due to the lack of info about how to connect and route the cable and such, but once I had post in hand and was putting it all on the bike, it just fell together. Granted I put some time into the cable routing etc...but overall it was much easier than expected. 

Took a quick spin around the neighborhood, and so far, so good! I noticed it feels butter smooth. Compared to the other posts Ive sat on, it was as smooth or smoother. Held my #240 butt with ease, and the trigger is really comfortable/easy to operate. Those of you who are concerned about the post only having 4" of travel...I wonder why you would want more? Bottom line, the post is awesome, especially for the low price. Now its just a matter of time, first real ride is a couple days away. Cant wait!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I got mine monday, 5 minute install and it works perfect so far. I have ridden a bit but not much and no issue's so far. Going riding tonight so that should be a good test.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

FWIW it worked flawless all night for me. And like a little kid with a new toy I messed with it the entire ride.


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## NorCalRider76 (Jul 11, 2012)

Same for me...put a decent amount of time on mine, and its been perfect. Hope it stays that way  One thing I question, is whether or not the rebound speed can be adjusted? It goes back up just fine, and never came up short, but if it was a little faster, I would like it mo'betta.


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## ronyc (Aug 27, 2008)

Also looking to pull the triger on this but concerned about the 20mm offset. I currently have 0 offset on my post.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Dont forget you have some room to move the seat on the rail's. My Chromag seat has a good bit of room to move it around. 


I got another ride in on mine and it worked flawless for me.


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## ronyc (Aug 27, 2008)

Thanks 94krawler


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## bamr33 (Jun 2, 2012)

An update on my KS eten... After 3 months use it is now losing height (10-20mm) on long uphill sections with full weight on the seatpost. It returns to full height after pressing the remote but it is quite annoying to have to do this half way up a climb. So looks like I'll have to look into fixing it or maybe it just needs more air pressure in the cartridge, not sure at this stage, just a warning on the reliability of this unit for potential buyers.


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## NorCalRider76 (Jul 11, 2012)

Just put some hard miles on my eten on the bumpy lava cap in Chico Ca. The post got a really good workout, and so did I  It was its first true test, and I have to say, it was flawless. I have become a believer in the ways of the dropper...now lets see how long it lasts.


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## VtVolk (Jul 11, 2011)

bamr33 said:


> An update on my KS eten... After 3 months use it is now losing height (10-20mm) on long uphill sections with full weight on the seatpost. It returns to full height after pressing the remote but it is quite annoying to have to do this half way up a climb. So looks like I'll have to look into fixing it or maybe it just needs more air pressure in the cartridge, not sure at this stage, just a warning on the reliability of this unit for potential buyers.


Have you double checked the litte ferrule where it intersects with the housing stop under the seat? A few times, mine has popped loose, which results in the cable being just slightly pulled--similar to very light pressure on the remote--but it's enough to let the post drop with full weight on it. A quick wiggle back into place and it's good to go.


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## dietz31684 (Mar 30, 2010)

any talk of 27.2 coming?


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

dietz31684 said:


> any talk of 27.2 coming?


I doubt they could do a 27.2 at that pricepoint - so much more involved with the remote canister that their 27.2 products have.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I just ordered one from Modern Bike. $138 shipped is right where I need to be for a dropper post. I hope it works decent and lasts a couple of years at least.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Update - I received my post and installed it, no problems, just had to shorten the cable a bit. Took it for the first ride this weekend and it worked great! My first ride with a dropper post and I am a firm believer. I find myself annoyed that the seat is in the way if I don't remember to drop it, or if the trail is a lot of quick up and down, and it really can't be dropped. With the seat lowered my bike feels like a BMX bike, easy to whip around, and much faster through turns going downhill. This post is a nice way to get into droppers.


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## philipb (Aug 4, 2008)

Another update. I have had this post for over 2 months and at least 40 to 50 rides. It continues to work very well. A couple of things I have noticed, there is a little rotational play, although I don't notice this while riding, and the seat tends to slide back over time. This drift is not much, maybe 3 or 4 millimeters over a couple of weeks. This could be due to my saddle rails, I am not sure.... They are hollow Ti. I do think a dual bolt clamp would alleviate this.

Overall this is one of the best upgrades I have done to my bike in quite a while and I would not hesitate to recommend this post particularly for the money ($138.00).


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Mine has been flawless so far.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Got mine in the mail today, and put it on. For $124 shipped I doubt I would dislike it unless the thing snapped in half the first time I sat down. Every thing works as well as I would expect, and I was able to install it in a way that fit great. Only thing I didn't like is how the cable attaches to the lever. It would be prettier without the end of the cable sticking out. But hey, for what I paid I just want something that works.


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## Lukiwiki (Sep 6, 2013)

Received my eten without remote few days ago. Cost 100 euros from Accueil - PureBike - Pièces, matériel et accessoires VTT, vélo de route, BMX There is a tiny side to side play, but it is unnoticeable when riding. I got the model with saddle lever because there were many complaints about the remote one. Will give it the full use now and report back.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

StuLax18 said:


> Got mine in the mail today, and put it on. For $124 shipped I doubt I would dislike it unless the thing snapped in half the first time I sat down. Every thing works as well as I would expect, and I was able to install it in a way that fit great. Only thing I didn't like is how the cable attaches to the lever. It would be prettier without the end of the cable sticking out. But hey, for what I paid I just want something that works.


Where did you buy it for $124? I thought I got a good deal for $138 shipped.

Awesome post by the way.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

69tr6r said:


> Where did you buy it for $124? I thought I got a good deal for $138 shipped.
> 
> Awesome post by the way.


These guys, but after reading on here their shipping is slow, so I price matched with Jenson, thus no tax/free shipping. Last night I found it for $120, but I would pay tax on that unless Jenson would price match that too. I actually found them by checking prices on Google shopping, and surprisingly the lowest price wasn't some sketchy online retailer I've never heard of.

https://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-24353-kind-shock-eten-seatpost.aspx


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## NorCalRider76 (Jul 11, 2012)

Haven't had time to look into it yet, but my eten started sagging tonight...about an inch or two. It's got a couple hundred miles on it so far and I'm 240 lbs, so it's been worked pretty good over the last couple of months. Gonna check the cable at the seat clamp and see if its hanging up at all, or if maybe the cable is hanging up causing a prob...really like the post and hope I can fix it because I can't imagine riding without it now!

The post has developed a bit of side to side play at the seat that has increased a bit over time, but as long as it doesn't get worse I'm not worried about it.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Mine did that and I found the cable was sliding in the zip tie on my frame when I'd drop and then catch going back up. I had just switched everything over to a new frame so I didnt give it much thought and it was the post's fault.

I ditched my QR clamp now since the dropper. I did find that if I over tighten the seat post clamp it will try to stick a bit. Backed the seat clamp off a tiny bit and its smooth.


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## adamowens (Jun 1, 2013)

5 weeks on my eten with at least every other day riding rough trails in Grand Junction (about 200 miles or so), CO and working well. I also got it because I tend to break things and it seems easily replaceable at the $124 I pain. I like the action more than the reverb, which I have ridden on demo bikes several times. 100 mm drop is fine for me as a trail rider. 

The cable seems to stick sometimes and does not fully return to the "off" position so that when I load the seat after rising it, it wants to go down. This happens for the first 3-4 drops and then goes away. Probably need to lube the cable, but I'm not that bothered by it. 

Overall, good choice.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I'm still working on dialing in my mounting position so that I get the best blend of pedal efficiency and clearance for DH. On longer climbs I notice myself not getting quite as much extension as I'd like, but I don't want to give up the ability to move it out of the way also. Gone off a couple drops and forgot to put it down, and was rudely reminded.


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## PRCVT (Apr 16, 2012)

I ride often with the VTVolk, the guy who started this post, and we both have been hammering on our Eten's and they are still going strong. Not sure about other posts, but on a few cold night rides the post takes a few drops to get going. Nothing that really bothers me. Other than that, it has been a reliable and very reasonable upgrade in terms of cost. I cant imagine spending double this would get me a product that is twice as good. I do wish that the remote lever was the higher end one on the Lev so i could integrate with my ODI lock ring. I am also too cheap to upgrade for that minor improvement....


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I wonder if you could buy that lever by itself and swap it out?


Only issue I've noticed with mine is sometimes the seat rails seem to creak in the mount, at least I think that's what it is, when I land on the seat somewhat hard. No issues with movement though, and I transport my bike sideways in the back of my car.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I have not seen the lever only listed but its sold in some kinda kit form for the higher end post's IIRC. I wouldnt mind the upgraded lever as I ride lock on's myself. Assuming they would it would fit my Lizard skins Peaty's anyways.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I think it can be done because I had a friend who got the LEV integra when it came out, and his came with a different lever than it should have. The distributor said he would send him a new lever, although I don't know if this ever happened for sure.


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## MTBAlex (Mar 29, 2006)

You still in the bay Stu? will be riding again.

hopefully, I can hear more about feedback about this dropper. I am looking to buy one soon and reliability is a big issue.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Update: still haven't been riding much but I was noticing that some times the post wasn't coming up the last half inch. It was simply a case of the seatclamp being too tight. I loosened it a bit and no problems at all yesterday

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk now Free


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## Jkon (Jun 29, 2008)

I just received my eten and installed it. One oddity: the instructions that come with it don't tell you how to install or route the cable, they just describe how to insert the seatpost, put a seat on it and mount the remote to the bars. Seems like it would be helpful to explain how to attach the cable on each end and some tips on routing it. It wasn't too hard to figure out, however.

First ride was flawless; dropped on command, rose back to full height on command. Looking forward to giving it a workout. My only complaint so far is that I do wish it was 125mm or even 150mm drop; I can see how having a little more drop would be nice on the really steep and rocky sections. I'm wary of the issues described here, but frankly if you check out threads on other droppers (Lev, Thompson, Reverb, CB, etc.) they all suffer from similar performance problems at times, so paying 2x-3x as much for a different model doesn't ensure you won't have problems. So far I'm pretty stoked on it.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Yeah, the directions suck. I'm pretty sure my cable is backwards, but it's not a huge issue, and made fine tuning the length easier. I noticed yesterday on my first ride at the place where I bought this for that I ended up bringing it up about an inch for climbing, but then I noticed it a couple times on some really rough, steeper stuff. It didn't cause any issues, but it did kind of distract me thinking oh crap I hope I don't get bucked. I don't think those parts are on the race route though, so I'm okay there, and can always lower it at the top a bit.


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## NorCalRider76 (Jul 11, 2012)

Sorry I haven't updated in a while...I checked the cable and it had slid inside the frame guides a bit, and the area around the actuator lever that the cable pulls on had some dirt and gunk build up. I Adjusted the cable and tightened up the guides so the cable wont move, cleaned it up and it's back to normal! I've put a few rides on it since and had no problems.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Update #2. Just moved down to tampa florida a couple months ago and have been doing a lot more mtb riding. Sadly, the trails around here really dont have much need for a dropper. There is a good chance mine will end up in the classifieds although I may just hang onto it and build a 2nd totally xc oriented bike. I can say that the post itself has been durable as just a seatpost. I'm 250 lbs and dont always ride with my legs as a suspension and the seat takes some hits. The post is still functioning fine

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I guess I should add an update as well. Since I put my bike in my car I always take off the front wheel to fit it. This means that the bike is upside down a lot for removal/install, and rides in the car on its side. Usually I'll do a quick up and down with the post while I'm doing a quick pedal to test the shifting and brakes and stuff, as sometimes I notice it won't want to come up quite as quick or all the way. 

The one issue I do notice is a creaking, especially if I bounce up and down on it while pedaling or seated but hit a bump. I haven't been able to determine for sure if it's the post in the frame or the seat clamp. Kinda sounds like something is dirty, or not quite tight enough.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

One word to describe mine, flawless.


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## James12345 (Jun 28, 2006)

Love mine! I have an old KS Supernatural 150 and love the ETEN just as much. I might actually love it more since is was way less expensive.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

I've been using one somewhere shy of a year now and while I wouldn't say it's been perfect, I'm quite satisfied for the price.


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

I just bought one of these and installed it last night; this is my first dropper post. So far it looks like it's well made for the price and I'm looking forward to trying it out.

My bike is fairly big, an XL frame. The included cable and housing seems like it *might* be long enough but I'm wondering if I'll have to get a slightly longer one. In order to run it through the short distance of internal routing on this frame without losing any cable length I had to uncrimp the cable tip, remove the barrel and ferrule and then reassemble without cutting any cable at all, or it definitely would be too short.

Can anyone comment on whether they had enough cable and housing included with this? Did you have to get a longer one, or did you actually have too much and have to cut it down for a smaller bike?

A couple extra inches would have been nice... TWSS


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

outback97 said:


> I just bought one of these and installed it last night; this is my first dropper post. So far it looks like it's well made for the price and I'm looking forward to trying it out.
> 
> My bike is fairly big, an XL frame. The included cable and housing seems like it *might* be long enough but I'm wondering if I'll have to get a slightly longer one. In order to run it through the short distance of internal routing on this frame without losing any cable length I had to uncrimp the cable tip, remove the barrel and ferrule and then reassemble without cutting any cable at all, or it definitely would be too short.
> 
> ...


I have mine externally routed on an XL Yelli Screamy and I have plenty of length.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Mine was long enough on my large Rune in the external mounts.



I did actually redo my cable not long ago though. I removed the flexible cable noodle for a 90degree V-brake type noodle. I just didnt like the flexible noodle, its much cleaner with the 90degree IMHO.


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## ferguson65 (Jun 7, 2013)

I spec'd one of these on my Spitfire after dirtrider76's experience with it. While I haven't used it much, due to the fact I forget I have it, the last ride out I hit a rock fairly hard and my thumb hit the release. Well the release came back but the cable did not. Seat dropped down and stayed released, would float up and down. Had to stick my finger on the lever under the seat and push it back up. Happened a few more times that day, but it was about 22 degrees F when we left the truck...............................Issues seemed to go away after it warmed back up. Time will tell.


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> I have mine externally routed on an XL Yelli Screamy and I have plenty of length.





dirtrider76 said:


> Mine was long enough on my large Rune in the external mounts.


Thanks, I think it'll be just long enough. When I was test fitting last night I had the bike in the work stand with the old seat post to hold it and there were a couple extra inches of post vs my normal amount. I'll have to ride it and see.

Can't wait for better weather to try it out!


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## D(C) (Jun 17, 2013)

I just installed mine. On my first ride with it, I noticed that it sagged a couple mm when at full height. This is not a huge issue except for the very annoying clunk that comes as it settles into the sag. I tried detaching the cable to see if it was a matter of too much cable tension or friction and the sag and clunk are still there. Anyone else have this? Did I get a faulty unit?


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

D(C) said:


> Anyone else have this? Did I get a faulty unit?


I don't know enough to know if you have a faulty unit but I'm pretty sure mine has never done that, unless I'm not understanding correctly. I believe mine sits rock solid unless the cable is activated one way or the other.


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

> NOTICE TO ETEN OWNERS: The ETen and ETen Remote us an open
> bath cartridge. Inverting the seatpost may cause air and oil to mix
> and may result in temporary suspension action. To remedy this,
> return the seat post to it's normal position with the saddle head up
> ...


D(C), did you see this in the manual? Maybe it needs to be cycled a few more times?

I rode around my backyard for a while and played around with it, haven't had a proper ride yet but mine seems solid and doesn't do this, at least that I noticed.


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## Topics64 (Jun 19, 2011)

Could someone let me know the measurement from the minimum line to the seat rail?? Thanks


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## Topics64 (Jun 19, 2011)

Found out its 110mm from the line down leavening 275mm available to adjust the height. In case anyone cares!


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

Just took the plunge on a ks eten dropper post. I bought the lever model to save a few extra bucks. I was curious though, I have a ks 861 post that just died on me and it has a remote. Does anyone know if I can take the lever of and throw on my old cable remote? Or would I have to purchase some extra parts for the post to accomplish this? Thanks


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I guess it depends, but I'm guessing no assuming that the eTen has a specific setup for the cable actuated vs. the lever actuated. Maybe to keep costs down it's only a parts difference between the two and then you could purchase the stuff from KS and retrofit.


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## bamr33 (Jun 2, 2012)

Update on this seat post after one year ownership, i say this because i had a bad case of broken thumb for a good three months. Anyway less than a years use and this unit has failed miserably! Holds no weight and the non rebuildable cartridge costs more than a brand new eten so this thing is a disposable unit.

I encourage people not to waste their hard earned on this peice of sh17. Back to square one after a failed reverb and now an eten. Fml, more money down the drain.


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Hey there folks!

Does anyone of you know the differences between the *eTen* and the *Vareo*? Both look quite the same and if you take a look at the specifications there is no hint that makes me think of any difference. Both are ExaForm products. The only difference I can make out is the remote button an the "trigger" which operates the seatpost and where the cable is fixed.

Here are the links:

*Vareo:*
ks

*eTen:*
ks


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

bamr33 said:


> Update on this seat post after one year ownership, i say this because i had a bad case of broken thumb for a good three months. Anyway less than a years use and this unit has failed miserably! Holds no weight and the non rebuildable cartridge costs more than a brand new eten so this thing is a disposable unit.
> 
> I encourage people not to waste their hard earned on this peice of sh17. Back to square one after a failed reverb and now an eten. Fml, more money down the drain.


"Your new seatpost is warranted for a period of two years from the 
date of purchase"


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

I am hoping that if I have an issue w the eten that they will honor the warranty. I purchased a ks861 (exaform) two months ago that just failed and they would not do anything for me. I've sent them a few emails and never received a response and my local bike shop tried them for me. I was told they don't carry the parts to rebuild those anymore. Not very impressed with their customer service at this point. Id take this in to consideration if you buy anything in exaform line. I'm gonna try them by phone one last time and see if they will help me out w the 861. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


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## azorr (Jul 9, 2012)

I haven't had the eTen but the Vareo was a "Supsension Dropper" meaning it did not lock up but had an inch or two of suspension at any given height. Was kind of nice on a HT but on a FS bike I don't think I would like it. Also the Vareo locked up after riding it in the rain and hasn't worked right since. I would steer clear of it if it was me.



Derivator22 said:


> Hey there folks!
> 
> Does anyone of you know the differences between the *eTen* and the *Vareo*? Both look quite the same and if you take a look at the specifications there is no hint that makes me think of any difference. Both are ExaForm products. The only difference I can make out is the remote button an the "trigger" which operates the seatpost and where the cable is fixed.
> 
> ...


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

The ks861 I have is the same as the vario I think. I really did not mind the suspension aspect and really liked the post. I'm sending mine to KS for repair, hope they fix it. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

@azorr: Sorry for my bad English but I am no native speaker.
I don't get the difference by reading your post (maybe because there is some vocabulary that I am not used to?!).
As I compared the specifications and the pictures I could only find the differences that I have already mentioned.
So maybe you could be that kind and explain the differences in an easy manner to me (google Translator has not been a great help to me). Thanks a lot!


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

While sitting on the vario post it will absorb or go down a bit when going over a hard bump. It is not fully locked out at the top. Its like this as a comfort feature to absorb an impact.

I still really liked the post. I did not find it bouncy and was firm when climbing. Just did not last long. 

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks a lot.
I think I got it! So the Vareo was like a suspension post (or yours was broken?!).
My last question is wether there was the same black plastic remote or was it made of metal? Of course you can see at the pictures that the adjustment of the cable is near the remote button at the Vareo. The adjustment of the eTen seems to be located in the middle of the cable (all information guessed from the pictures).


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

I dropped mine by local shop so I font have it to look at. I'm picking it up to send to Ks this week for repair.

I will let you know, but I think it was metal. The remote worked well, never needed to mess with it. 

I would recommend waiting on the vario until I post back here as to whether or not KS will warranty mine. I should know in the next few weeks. You can also get an eten w remote from some retailers for $122-$138.

Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks a lot! Really, I appreciate that!


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Hey folks!
I bought myself the eTen and have to say that I'm really impressed by it's outer appearance. The manual is a joke - people without any technical knowledge might fail tryin'.
For me it was quite easy to install and it works very well. The only thing I should mention is that the "tolerance" of the length of the cable is very small! You have to find the correct length otherwise the dropper-post might move down or will not stay at top.
Everything looks like good quality and before I have to pay a lot of bucks for a RS Reverb I'd rather take the eTen (of course because of it's steele cable and not hydraulically like the Reverb).

The remote is made of plastic, not metal. And poorly there is no adjuster for quick adjustment of the length of the steel wires/ cables like shifters have. Even it is shown on the pictures). Never the less everything works as it should and 10cm of travel are quite enough and I'm talking to you as a guy who is 1,92m tall!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Derivator22 said:


> The remote is made of plastic, not metal. And poorly there is no adjuster for quick adjustment of the length of the steel wires/ cables like shifters have. Even it is shown on the pictures). Never the less everything works as it should and 10cm of travel are quite enough and I'm talking to you as a guy who is 1,92m tall!


There is a barrel adjuster in line on the cable on mine. I actually changed my cable routing though and added a solid noodle in place of the flexible noodle.

The plastic remote lever works the same as the bling Carbon fiber lever. Actually the Carbon fiber remote/grip clamp weighs more than a Lizard skins grip clamp and the plastic remote.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

Yes, i can also confirm there is a barrel adjuster that is added between the lever and cable. It's a short metal cable about 2 inches long. You may want to check the box again and install it.


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

I did check that but could not find the adjuster. I also wrote to KS u.s. and KS cn for sending me a new one two weeks ago but didn't get an answer...


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## azorr (Jul 9, 2012)

Sorry for missing this reply, looks like johnbike81 answered already. But just to reiterate, the Vareo when working correctly will still move up and down a little to absorb bumps. I had mine on a hard tail bike and I liked that it absorbed some but it stopped working (it wouldn't move at all) and also bent after about 6 months, and since I bought it on ebay it wasn't under warranty so I threw it away. I have since bought a full suspension bike and an eten seatpost, hopefully this one turns out better.



Derivator22 said:


> @azorr: Sorry for my bad English but I am no native speaker.
> I don't get the difference by reading your post (maybe because there is some vocabulary that I am not used to?!).
> As I compared the specifications and the pictures I could only find the differences that I have already mentioned.
> So maybe you could be that kind and explain the differences in an easy manner to me (google Translator has not been a great help to me). Thanks a lot!


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

Just curious if there is any way to improve the return speed of the eten? Seems to come back to the top position pretty slow. Was looking for an airvavle, but does not appear to b adjustable. Would adding more cable tension make any difference.



Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Mine comes back very quickly. Not that quick that it strikes you into your nuts, but as quick as a Reverb.
Maybe your cable is too long or to short? As I already mentioned: the cable has to be of perfect length otherwise it influences the way the eTen is working.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

johnbike81 said:


> Just curious if there is any way to improve the return speed of the eten? Seems to come back to the top position pretty slow. Was looking for an airvavle, but does not appear to b adjustable. Would adding more cable tension make any difference.
> 
> Sent from my LT30at using Tapatalk 2


Make sure you haven't overtightened your seat post collar. I had an issue with mine not coming all the way back up and it turned out that was the problem


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

cpfitness said:


> Make sure you haven't overtightened your seat post collar. I had an issue with mine not coming all the way back up and it turned out that was the problem


I did the same when I first installed mine.


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## johnbike81 (May 23, 2013)

Thx, just needed to add a little more tension to the cable. Much better now!


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

johnbike81 said:


> Thx, just needed to add a little more tension to the cable. Much better now!


Perfect! :thumbsup:
Quiet a few people wrote that their eTen is broken or won't work and some threw it away and bought themselves a reverb. I think that adjusting the cable-tension would have solved some of the problems.
A problem that can be fixed very easily. Otherwise the hydraulically system of the reverb which leaks a little bit and air gets into the system and that leads to annoying work -.-


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

I have to agree with the above post. Its a pretty basic system but if you cant set cable tension properly it wont work right.


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## Hurkinite (Jul 20, 2012)

A tip for setting the cable tension. 

Have somebody hold the remote trigger all the way down. While he is doing that, you want to hold the lever on the post all the way down. That is the exact length you want for your cable. Set your cable stop there. 

After a while you will get cable stretch and need to repeat the process.


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## Burzum (Jul 30, 2009)

How about some pics of an eTen on a bike?


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

My Rune sometime in early winter.


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

Burzum said:


> How about some pics of an eTen on a bike?


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## ferguson65 (Jun 7, 2013)

Sweet pic Eric! Makes me want to go hike Lehigh gap.

Part of mine..................










And the whole bike


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

*eTen.gif*


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## SierraCarver (Feb 8, 2013)

I love this seatpost. Only had it for a couple of weeks but I wonder how I ever rode without it. Only complaint is how it added almost a pound to my bike. O well, this thing is worth it's weight in gold. 

Jerry


From https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sre...LBUM&id=5987760514354656593&feat=embedwebsite


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## cpfitness (Nov 19, 2012)

I'd rather add a pound to my bike than lose a pound from my wallet for one of the other options out there

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## Topics64 (Jun 19, 2011)

Have not tried this post out do to awesome east coast weather! I am waiting on some sunshine!


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

my process 134 came with one stock...

I think for my height (180cm) 125mm of travel would fit like a glove ;-)

eten takes a few cycles to warm up 0_o and sometimes I need to manually push/return the lever to fully not-activated... i.e. it won't stay fully extend

otherwise it's frickin awesome!! 

not so good for weight weenies @ 780g (if memory serves correctly)...

I'll move it over to my HT 29er once I've saved up for something w/ a little more travel


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

Hey Folks,

I'm hoping you guys can help:

For the eTen R - At full extension what is the measurement from the centerline of the seat rails to the point where the post is fully inserted into the frame? In other words: its minimum exposed length when fully extended. If you look at the picture below imagine the lower red line is at the seatpost clamp with no extra exposed post. That's the measurement I'm looking for.










I searched and tried to find this on the KS site but had no luck.

Thanks in advance


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

Ipe said:


> Hey Folks,
> 
> I'm hoping you guys can help:
> 
> ...


Ipe, I can measure mine tonight if someone else doesn't chime in before then.


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

As measured on mine, but YMMV depending on where exactly you measure the seat rail clamp and at what angle it sits.


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

Awesome! Thanks for the reply. This is a great place to start. :thumbsup:


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## outback97 (Oct 3, 2012)

I was actually pretty close. Depends on where you measure the rails and the seat angle. These numbers are probably more accurate.
136mm rail to top of "collar"
165mm rail to bottom of "collar"
266mm rail to min insertion line
385mm rail to bottom of post


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Just as a short review:
My eTen is working quite perfectly for 500km now. The 10cm of travel are quite enough even for big guys like me (1,92m).
If you once install it perfectly (especially the length of the cable), the eTen might work without any problems.
I think it was worth every penny!


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

I got a lever actuated eTen a few weeks ago and installed it yesterday. It worked for a few times, and now it's really hard to push down, and really slow to come back. I have to pull on it if i want it to come back up. 

I disassembled it (only unscrewed the lower cap) and it cycles freely, so I guess the problem must be the gas strut inside. I never put it upside down, and I torques my bolts to the recommended settings. The post doesn't work better if it's not n the frame i.e. using it on the floor without it being i the frame. I also tried cycling it 6-7 times as people have said that it might sometimes need a few cycles to get working again, but to no avail.

Any DIY fix solution or I have to send it back to KS already ? I did not even ride with it yet!

Thanks!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Thats odd, mines almost a year old and still works flawless. I'm actually waiting on a LEV to get here now since the eTen worked so good for me.


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

I don't believe mine has ever been overly stiff to drop, but it has always been a bit slow to return to the top and sometimes doesn't come all the way up. I just chalked it up to it being cheap and I just grab it with my legs and pull it up with my finger on the actuator. I suppose once in a rare while I need to wiggle the cable connection at the seat if it acts up, but it has never failed on me after over a year though.


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## tehllama (Jul 18, 2013)

philipb said:


> I got an eten a week a go and have been on 5 rides with it. It works perfectly, goes all the way down and all the way back up, nice and smooth,. The remote works perfectly I got it for $138.00 from Art's Cyclery. This is the best money I have spent on my bike in quite a while. The only thing I would change is the clamp. It is a single bolt and is harder to adjust than a dual bolt design. It does hold my seat in place though (no slop) and I weigh 210 LBS.


This mirrors my experience, though I've had it for two months now.

It's not as nice as the posts at 3x the price, but it's only about the total travel (67% of the 150mm ones) and weight (my bike is already 35# anyway, nonissue). I happen to run mine right at the minimum insertion distance, so I can't get the seat that massively far out of the way, but it's plenty far out of the way since it comes forward too.


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## guim (May 2, 2006)

I'll contact the local service center in Canada, because mine takes around 2 seconds to drop when I'm seated, and 3-4 seconds to come back up when I help it. I have to almost stop on the trail to pull it back up, so I'm not sure that I'll leave it on. It's still useful, but at 723g (lever version) instead of 393g for my trusty Titec scoper telescopic seatpost, I'm not sure that the added weight is worth it. I don't want it to stay stuck down at some point, and since i'm leaving for a long bike vacation I don't want to deal with this while away from home.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

Mine is still working well, and I store it upside down and transport it with the bike on it's side. I do get some creaking but I haven't determined if it's the seat-to-post or post-to-frame contact that's causing it.


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

I've read several other posters in this thread comment on the poor installation instructions included with this seatpost and how important it is to get the cable tension etc correct.
This is my first suspension seatpost and I have had the unit working; but I've also dealt with a slow bleed off of pressure at times. I fiddle with the cable and slack adjuster and will get it to work reliably again...until it doesn't; which happens too frequently.

So for those of you with more experience, do you have some guidelines to proper setup of this seatpost other than making sure the actuating lever faces forward and you don't over tighten the seatpost clamp...which are the only two things covered in the stupid owners manual.


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## ferguson65 (Jun 7, 2013)

SeaHag said:


> I've read several other posters in this thread comment on the poor installation instructions included with this seatpost and how important it is to get the cable tension etc correct.
> This is my first suspension seatpost and I have had the unit working; but I've also dealt with a slow bleed off of pressure at times. I fiddle with the cable and slack adjuster and will get it to work reliably again...until it doesn't; which happens too frequently.
> 
> So for those of you with more experience, do you have some guidelines to proper setup of this seatpost other than making sure the actuating lever faces forward and you don't over tighten the seatpost clamp...which are the only two things covered in the stupid owners manual.


Make sure the barrel on the post end isn't slipping. That sure sounds like the culprit. I tightened the absolutely tiny set screw to where I thought it felt good. And it stopped working. Took it apart, found the barrel slipped, set it back to 20mm, tightened it way tighter than I felt required, with locktite, and it has seemed to hold adjustment now.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

ferguson65 said:


> Make sure the barrel on the post end isn't slipping. That sure sounds like the culprit. I tightened the absolutely tiny set screw to where I thought it felt good. And it stopped working. Took it apart, found the barrel slipped, set it back to 20mm, tightened it way tighter than I felt required, with locktite, and it has seemed to hold adjustment now.


I just opened up my eTen and saw that god-aweful small screw and small piece of plastic in the baggie and wondered what the heck they were for. Looking forward to the work day getting over with so I can get home, install the post and give it hell. Happy Birthday to me!!


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## SeaHag (Jul 14, 2011)

ferguson65 said:


> Make sure the barrel on the post end isn't slipping. That sure sounds like the culprit. I tightened the absolutely tiny set screw to where I thought it felt good. And it stopped working. Took it apart, found the barrel slipped, set it back to 20mm, tightened it way tighter than I felt required, with locktite, and it has seemed to hold adjustment now.


Tiny setscrew? Are you referring to the cable slack barrel adjuster?...or did I miss something? Did I mention the installation instructions in the manual were for **** and this is my first dropper?


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Mines been working fine on both bikes since April. Cable tension is key though, and you might need to adjust after cable stretch. It isn't too hard at all to get it right though (don't be too aggressive with trimming cable/housing like I did on my Yeti), and this is a cool tip:



Hurkinite said:


> Have somebody hold the remote trigger all the way down. While he is doing that, you want to hold the lever on the post all the way down. That is the exact length you want for your cable. Set your cable stop there.


Mud can mess with it though, for sure. Some type of mudguard over the area where the lever is could help, as mud can get in there and gum up the actuator that the lever pushes on. If you have problems, clean it out well (remove the lever), and then use some penetrating oil like Triflow, and it should be good as new again. Had to do this on two separate occassions after VERY muddy rides (full on rainstorm in greasy clay-like soil... fun!).


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Can someone take a picture of the tiny set screw that everyone is talking about. Just put in my order for one with BikerBob and should be here next week. Going on a new build so I want to be sure that I set it up properly.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Well be very careful as that thing is TINY.. I am talking like a 1 Allen key. Buddy and I were putting it together and trying to figure out how the cable stayed tensioned, luckily the screw was still in the bag when I noticed it was not in the small crimper/stop for the end of the cable.


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

I didn't notice the set screw until it was time to install the cable stop on. By that time it was gone. Luckily i was able to get a replacement at a local fastener store close to my house.


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

A while back I asked you guys about the lengths of the eTen and your answers were prefect. Now that some time has past my son has grown and I got him one for his birthday. Our only problem is the air preload. Its set higher than the preload on my LEV, and I'm no lightweight. He's 90lbs and thats just not enough to compress the post all the way, certainly not enough to compress it properly while riding.

So here's the question: How do you adjust the air preload on the eTen?

Here's some ad copy that says the eTen is adjustable:
Price Point



> Kind Shock E-Ten Dropper Seatpost 100mm Remote
> 
> The E-Ten is Kind Shock's newest height adjustable dropper post. It's their most affordable dropper seatpost but has features and functionality you'd expect to see on more expensive models.
> 
> ...


And here's a link to KS's page showing a pump that can be used on the eTen



> The Air-8 pump is a robust high pressure pump used to adjust the pressure in select models of KS dropper posts. Compatible with all LEV, Supernatural *and eTen models*, the Air-8 can also be used with most front forks and rear shocks adjusted via a standard schrader valve.


Apparently it can be done but the post manual/directions don't mention how to... So, how do you adjust the air preload?

I really hope you guys can help me. Thanks in advance! :thumbsup:

p.s. - I'm sure that I'm missing something really obvious but I'm just not seeing it. :madmax:

Thanks again,

Ipe


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Never found a valve at the post :-/


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

Derivator22 said:


> Never found a valve at the post :-/


And you are correct sir! I called and got confirmation that there is no way to adjust the preload pressure despite the Air-8 page saying that it can. Oh well, kid'll just have to grow. FWIW we rode this weekend and despite not getting full travel all the time he really enjoyed it.


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Did they tell you what we should do in case of refilling the system?
No system is aware of not losing any air/pressure. Should we buy a new one? That would not fit to ecological policy nor to our customer interests


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## Ipe (Jan 28, 2014)

The person I spoke with was the USA tech rep (I believe), and I'm pretty sure his name was Mike. I can say with certainty that he was a really nice fellow. :thumbsup:

Anyway, Mike said that if the damper should fail, or act poorly/oddly/not the way it had been, inside the 2 year warranty window to simply make a warranty claim on the KS site and to send the damper in for inspection. If it were faulty then they'd send you a new replacement damper. 

If it happens outside that 2 year window... well, I guess you'd either: 
a) buy a new damper
b) buy a replacement eTen (at probably a similar price to a replacement damper)
c) buy a LEV (or comparable) because at that point you'd have caught the "dropper bug" and know the benefits and want to upgrade to a better post anyway.

Again, that just a guess. TIFWIW


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Thank you for responding!


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## cameden (Aug 28, 2013)

I got my new eTen up and running for a few weeks now...been on a few rides with it...at the end of my ride today, which was probably the most use and abuse it's got so far, I was showing it to a buddy and when I pushed it all the way down you could hear air leaking around the seal and see it bubbling out....I left it down to see what would happen and it stopped leaking and now works fine, with no air seepage...anyone have any idea what this might be or if I should be concerned?


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

That's normal! You can reproduce this effect or better to say make it visual by putting some drops of oil to the shaft and see the bubbles. In my opinion no need to worry. Mine shows the same effect with a burping noise


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## pfb (Jul 31, 2005)

Just received my eTen remote from Jenson today...

It looks quite oily/greasy out of the box. Can't tell if it is intentionally lubricated or leaking hydraulics. Did your posts come like this? Hard to capture in a picture...










[Update: Evidently completely normal... cleaned it up a bit, installed it, seems to be leak-free.]


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## pfb (Jul 31, 2005)

Installed the eTen and got out for a first ride today...

Very happy with it so far. Seems like a great product for the price, $130 shipped from Jenson. The user manual/installation book is absolutely worthless, but from looking at some other threads and pictures I figured it out.

After installing it (or for someone who's installed other droppers), it of course seems completely obvious how to install, but it would be nice if they included better documentation with the product or on-line for newbies like me...

I set my remote up on the right side instead of left, but also run euro/moto right side front brake.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Been through 4 rides so far with mine and only thing that I had to do is bend the ferrule at the end of the line because I made the cable to long and if I adjusted my seat to a certain position the ferrule would contact the bottom of the seat not releasing the actuator completely, resulting in me sitting down and the seat slowly going down. Easy fix though.

So far this thing has been great and been flawless on the trails. I love that I can adjust it to any position I want and then make my run, now I just have to remember I have the damn thing and to drop the seat!


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

After 1400km (6 month) of riding the lever under the seat hasn't the power/ pressure to tighten the cable. So the post does not block/ stop and does not work like it should. Tried to renew the cables, proved the tension. Nothing worked. At least I disassembled the lever. First you have to unscrew the bolt that holds the lever than you can see a silver "cone/button" which the lever should pull down that the post goes down. This button has an O-Ring and then there comes a spring.
Now the post will be sent to KS for repairement/ replacement.


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## Lukiwiki (Sep 6, 2013)

*1 year riding , 2500 km*



Derivator22 said:


> After 1400km (6 month) of riding the lever under the seat hasn't the power/ pressure to tighten the cable. So the post does not block/ stop and does not work like it should. Tried to renew the cables, proved the tension. Nothing worked. At least I disassembled the lever. First you have to unscrew the bolt that holds the lever than you can see a silver "cone/button" which the lever should pull down that the post goes down. This button has an O-Ring and then there comes a spring.
> Now the post will be sent to KS for repairement/ replacement.


Well mine blown after one year and approx. of 2500 km of harsh trailing, model without remote , the seatpost is dropping by itself all the time , the lever does not work anymore , maybe some seal is worn or cartridge is dead, waiting for reply from KS service dep in europe


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## Lindahl (Aug 9, 2011)

Derivator22 said:


> After 1400km (6 month) of riding the lever under the seat hasn't the power/ pressure to tighten the cable. So the post does not block/ stop and does not work like it should. Tried to renew the cables, proved the tension. Nothing worked. At least I disassembled the lever. First you have to unscrew the bolt that holds the lever than you can see a silver "cone/button" which the lever should pull down that the post goes down. This button has an O-Ring and then there comes a spring.
> Now the post will be sent to KS for repairement/ replacement.


I get that sometimes when riding in muddy conditions. A good cleaning and application of penetrating oil like triflow loosens the silver button up again. KS sells a mud flap specifically to protect that area.


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## Derivator22 (Feb 17, 2014)

Could you please post the link of the mudflap?


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## PRCVT (Apr 16, 2012)

Dirtrider76, You have a pic of the 90 degree noodle setup you could share?


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Three months of riding and it looks like I will need to do the penetrating oil thing, the lever doesn't want to return completely. Other than that, I love this post! Best upgrade for the money - period.


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## nwmlarge (Mar 6, 2011)

Has anyone got a photo of the seat post dumped to the bottom?

Also if possible could someone measure the distance between the rails and the bottom of the collar bit when it is dumped please.

I am trying to achieve the lowest stand over possible with a dropper.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Well, the penetrating oil did not work, so I will be sending off my post today. It was surprisingly easy to get an RMA, and it was sent quick. I am curious to see how long the entire process takes, and what will transpire. Updates to come.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

After a particularly muddy ride (and good clean), mine won't lock out automatically - I can manually lock it out with lever i.e. toggle on/off. Luckily my father-in-law can fix almost anything. Will see him soon, and if he can't do it - his brother owns a bike shop... I'm sure one if them can help me out ^^ if not I'll probably buy a new Dropper post (internally protected lever etc.)


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> After a particularly muddy ride (and good clean), mine won't lock out automatically - I can manually lock it out with lever i.e. toggle on/off. Luckily my father-in-law can fix almost anything. Will see him soon, and if he can't do it - his brother owns a bike shop... I'm sure one if them can help me out ^^ if not I'll probably buy a new Dropper post (internally protected lever etc.)


My conditions are considerably different than yours, with sand being the enemy here in the high desert. My post is only three months old, but it was flawless up until last week and riding without it is not as much fun. I will also be working on some sort of boot in the meantime to seal the lever assembly up - this post would last forever with some kind of lever protection in place.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Do you think the lever needs a boot, or the seatpost? I would think the seatpost needs the boot on it. Like the Gravity Dropper posts.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

The seatpost top, to protect the lever assembly.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

s0ul_chicken said:


> The seatpost top, to protect the lever assembly.


OH, that lever! Sorry, yeah I was thinking the handlebar lever.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

The remote doesn't need protection, but from me it does! I ditched the remote that came with the eTen, and substituted a Kronolog lever in it's place for ergonomics. No way I am paying what KS wants for theirs, especially at half the cost of the dropper post itself!


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Yeah I am having the same issues as Soul-Chicken now... but mine was do to a hellacious rainstorm that my BIL got caught in the last 5 miles of our ride. Most of that was down FSR and so everything, including us, was caked in mud and grit. This has apparently gotten into the cable actuation site at the base of the seat which I was able to clean with some Chlorine free brake cleaner and a can of dust off but my remote will randomly not pull now so either I have grit inside of the cable housing or the lever arm is hanging...

@s0ul_chicken... where in the high desert are you?


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

took mine (KS Eten) out of bike today... released cable so I just had post in hand...

There was a heap of sh!t backed up underneath the lever that holds the cable ^^

Tried cleaning it out with cotton wool & a bbq skewer, got most of sh!t out of that space - but the problem I think, is the return piece (like you get on a scooter that sets height of handlebars). A lot of moisture comes out of piece when lever is pushed down.

I think some sort of spring around the (metal) piece might assist the lever returning to locked out position.

Also think the cable may have some crap on it inside the casing...

If my spring idea/cable cleaning idea - doesn't sort it out, I think converting it to a - under the seat lever system (only) might work...

Out on ride to day last centimeter of travel wouldn't hold - if I reached down and pulled lever to fully up position it would hold.

My father-in-law is more mechanically minded than me - I'll get him to have a look at it and see what happens...


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

gregnash said:


> Yeah I am having the same issues as Soul-Chicken now... but mine was do to a hellacious rainstorm that my BIL got caught in the last 5 miles of our ride. Most of that was down FSR and so everything, including us, was caked in mud and grit. This has apparently gotten into the cable actuation site at the base of the seat which I was able to clean with some Chlorine free brake cleaner and a can of dust off but my remote will randomly not pull now so either I have grit inside of the cable housing or the lever arm is hanging...
> 
> @s0ul_chicken... where in the high desert are you?


Northwest New Mexico here - you?


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

I thought mine had finally bit the dust this weekend after a little over a year. I noticed it would slowly come down about halfway when I sat down. I kept actuating it seeing if it would stop, and at one point heard the little cable end pop back into the hole. Some how it had come loose and was holding the cable like I was slightly pressing the lever. Worked fine the rest of the ride.

For those wondering, I think I put the plastic end cap on backwards so it's at the lever and not the post itself.


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## PRCVT (Apr 16, 2012)

*Warranty*

Bought my eten in May of last year and rode it hard and it finally bit the dust. It wasnt holding any weight and all the usual minor lever/cable issues were not the problem this time. Cartridge replacement did the trick and its working very well once again. Warranty process took exactly 2 weeks from the day it was sent out to the day i got it back! Well played KS. It was during Interbike as well so even better. I know its a simple swap for them, but i was pretty happy to see them turn it around so fast.


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## StuLax18 (Sep 27, 2011)

PRCVT said:


> Bought my eten in May of last year and rode it hard and it finally bit the dust. It wasnt holding any weight and all the usual minor lever/cable issues were not the problem this time. Cartridge replacement did the trick and its working very well once again. Warranty process took exactly 2 weeks from the day it was sent out to the day i got it back! Well played KS. It was during Interbike as well so even better. I know its a simple swap for them, but i was pretty happy to see them turn it around so fast.


Where did you have to send it to? I'm wondering how much of the 2 weeks was travel time.


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## PRCVT (Apr 16, 2012)

StuLax18 said:


> Where did you have to send it to? I'm wondering how much of the 2 weeks was travel time.


I sent it out on the 12 of Sept, priority, they sent it back to me priority and i got it on the 26th of sept. So, 2-3 days of shipping on either end. Also, i sent it out on a friday so i am sure they didnt even open the box until monday or later due to interbike.


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## PRCVT (Apr 16, 2012)

Forgot the first part. RMA completed on their website and it was sent to their Cali address that is listed on the website.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

My spring assisted dropper works ok... last cm of travel is still an issue, but I've alleviated the issue by having the post right at the range of my inseam - so if dropper fully extends (50% of time it seems to) I can still pedal comfortably & if it doesn't use all 100mm, I'm right in my sweet spot.

NB, spring has made actuation a little slower.

PS - I will make warranty inquiry in a week or two (out riding and holidaying at the mo)


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## NorthwestAir (Mar 29, 2010)

i've been experimenting with my standard aluminum seatpost to see of 4" is enough travel....before I commit to buying the eTen. most of the time 4" is enough but there are rare times when i'd like the seat a bit lower. So with the eTen, if I wanted to lower the insertion point during a ride, I'm assuming I can loosen the clamp and lower the whole post into the frame, just like a standard post? would I then need to adjust the cable tension? thanks!


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## keithrad (May 4, 2007)

Just received mine in the mail from Jenson, and taking it out tomorrow for the first ride. I am wondering if anybody has run it with less than the minimum insertion? With the post fully extended and inserted to the min. insertion line, it's maybe 1/2 - 3/4 inch too short from where I run my standard post. Thinking of raising it about that much above the min. line...


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## Dan GSR (Apr 29, 2010)

NorthwestAir said:


> would I then need to adjust the cable tension? thanks!


No, it would work fine


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## ferguson65 (Jun 7, 2013)

Mine has been largely trouble free over the last 9 months, and hasn't been apart yet, though I should take it apart and clean it up. The biggest issue I've had is keeping the tiny set screw/barrel from slipping on the cable. But last weekend after it sat for a week I tired to operate the remote and it was froze. Lever under the seat was froze, I used a screwdriver under the seat rails to get it to move. Been on two rides since, and it's been ok. I went with the Eten because I didn't know how I'd take to a dropper. I love the concept, and the Eten works, but I would not hesitate to spend a bit more money on one next time.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

keithrad said:


> Just received mine in the mail from Jenson, and taking it out tomorrow for the first ride. I am wondering if anybody has run it with less than the minimum insertion? With the post fully extended and inserted to the min. insertion line, it's maybe 1/2 - 3/4 inch too short from where I run my standard post. Thinking of raising it about that much above the min. line...


I had mine above for a short period of time before ordering a LEV. It was OK but I only did it for 2 rides I think.


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## keithrad (May 4, 2007)

I'm running it at about 3/8 inch past the min. ins. Trying to split the difference so as to not push my luck. Seems like a good height as far as pedal stroke goes. So far so good so I'll keep rolling with it. thx!


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## jpre (Jan 15, 2004)

keithrad said:


> I'm running it at about 3/8 inch past the min. ins.


I'm temporarily doing something similar. I found a label on a Giant frame that said what the minimum insertion is and it was less than the minimum insertion on the post. Made me feel a little better about running it a smidgen too high. Perhaps it's mostly the frame at stake rather than the post, depending on how you feel about that and whether to run that way permanently.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Alright, KS just called me on my post, said he took out the cartridge and replaced it, along with adding an upgraded return spring to go under the button on the post. He is also including a heavier spring just in case the spring he changed out isn't enough to keep the return action fluid. He said it should be fine with the new spring, but he says it is easily replaceable with a couple of tools, and is working great. He says to remove the spring assy. once every few months to clean out any debris. Since I do not have the post in front of me, I won't know what to actually take apart until I get it back.
I asked if they made a protective boot for the top of the post as well, and he says they have one for a different model, but it will not work for the eTen.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Here's a pic of my spring system :thumbsup:

Seems to have done the trick 

Post is returning to full extension :eekster:

Travel is a little slower for descend :crazy:


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> Here's a pic of my spring system :thumbsup:
> 
> Seems to have done the trick
> 
> ...


I tried the same thing, but might as well have it corrected while it is under warranty instead. I didn't try a spring that heavy though...


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

s0ul_chicken said:


> I tried the same thing, but might as well have it corrected while it is under warranty instead. I didn't try a spring that heavy though...


Come winter, I may go warranty route...

Sent from my Kin[G]_Pad ™


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> Come winter, I may go warranty route...
> 
> Sent from my Kin[G]_Pad ™


Turn around is only about two weeks, and it was nice to get contacted by the repair dude to give me a heads up of what was going on.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

I'm on the other side of the world ^^ there aint no two weeks happening here... more like a month!

Edit: Did I mention that when I bought steed it had no dropper...

It wasn't working correctly... took 4-5 weeks to get that puppy back from dealer :madman:


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

YES! I have my eTen post back from KS, along with a heavier spring in case I have further issues. He suggests cleaning the spring assy often, as mine was very mucked up. The spring, button head, and push rod come out by simply taking needle nose pliers and pulling straight up on the button. The button is held in a by an o-ring, so removal is simple. Hope the pic helps!









EDIT - Now that I have the post back, I will be working on something to protect the lever assy.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

10x for share... will disassemble soon and give a good clean!


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Well, trying to come up with something that I had just laying around the house, I found a 3M Safety Eyeglass pouch. I ripped the seam back about an inch, reinforced the stitch ends and slid it over the post head until it covered the lever assembly. I left part of the fabric on the end of the bite section for the seat rails to secure it in place. The open end of the pouch isn't elastic, and I didn't like the the enclosure loops, so I found a pull and replaced the cord. The pouch is long enough to close just under the KS eTen collar, and should keep a good amount of debris out - I hope... 
It went together well, but I will need to test it out to see how well it will work out, and if I can work some of the ugly out of it. My biggest enemy here is sand, so this approach may not work in a muddy/wet environment.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Nice... as my tennis coach used to say about my serve... "ugly but effective."


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

gregnash said:


> Nice... as my tennis coach used to say about my serve... "ugly but effective."


lol... looks like you're selling crack out on the trails ^^


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

I really DGAF what it looks like as long as it is functional. So far, so good with the cover as it is keeping all the sand out of the top of the post - function over form.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

s0ul_chicken said:


> I really DGAF what it looks like as long as it is functional. So far, so good with the cover as it is keeping all the sand out of the top of the post - function over form.


Dude, no insult intended ^^

I'm thinking black tape would do the trick + look a little more aesthetically pleasing...

Your innovation is admirable (sharp tongue, not so much)


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## Ben_Im (Mar 3, 2012)

Bit the bullet on an eTen. Impressions so far:

Functionality 8/10. I noticed that the post is pretty sensitive to getting the cable tension juuuussstt right. Takes a few minutes of tinkering but once it's set, it's great. Sometimes when I return the post back up to it's full upper position and immediately sit down there's about a 0.25'' inch sag that occurs. If I return the post back up, and hover for a second, then sit down, there's no sag. Just an observation. Not sure what to make of it. 
Aesthetics 10/10. I love how subtle this post looks - I hate the golden/bronze dropper posts you see. Everything about this post is understated. 
Longevity:? I'm really turned off by the fact that this cartridge is a sealed unit. I'm very much a home bike mechanic and a DIYer and there's something unnerving about having to send off the dropper to get "serviced" a.k.a. a complete cartridge replacement. I love the idea of servicing a post preemptively to any malfunctions, but sending a functioning dropper post for a cartridge replacement seems wasteful, and isn't covered under warranty. 
Weight 1/10: This thing is HEAVY.  I doubt it really makes a real world difference for most riders, but I was surprised just how heavy this thing really was in person. I just have to keep reminding myself that the weight difference between the eTen and the Lev is comparable to whether or not I take a dump before a long ride. 

I'm usually take really good care of my equipment so I'm curious to see how long this dropper can last. I'll be sure to update if anything changes, malfunctions, or breaks.


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

My quick review:

I have never been on a dropper before until this one. I've always been interested and it took my nuts getting racked on a steep technical section to start looking. The biggest feature of this post is its price. For what you get and for the price you pay, it's hard to really look elsewhere unless you're a weight weenie. My impressions with this so far (two rides) is functionality is a 9/10. Only reason it's not a 10 is because it doesn't have a way to adjust how fast the seat returns... who cares as it's fast enough but not too fast that your blow your balls out your mouth. I've heard people say it's heavy and that's probably true although it's hard for me to compare as I've never used anything other than a standard post. I love the actuator button as it can be mounted left or right and is pretty low profile. I was able to fit it between my grip and brake lever since I have a small amount of space there. It doesn't get in the way of the grips and is easy to actuate. The installation manual is horrible as there is one diagram that shows how the eten should be setup. If followed the manuals 10mm recommendation for the cable pull length and got it right the first time (I used a caliper). I do not have any sag whatsoever and the seat drops quickly and returns fast enough. I'm not a racer and even though I care about weight to a certain degree, the benefits out way the extra weight. I can't see buying a more expensive dropper since this post seems to be built of high quality, is smooth, and very functional. I as well like how understated the post looks. 

You do get some side to side play with your seat and coming from a guy who is super picky about seat positions, you take it to the bank that you will not notice the play while ridding. Go get one already!


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

i have been using it for about 2 months now and to me the only difference between this and more expensive posts like the reverb, etc., is the speed for it to return to fully extended. Nothing to worry about, but it is slower than the reverb I used on a demo bike recently.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Update: on my heavy spring setup ^^

the spring (besides assisting return) is also keeping the lever area clear of debris!?

win win =)


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## bongski (Dec 8, 2011)

Finally got mine. I've been running a regular seatpost on my Trans am.
A few things I noticed compared to my Lev, on my fs, is that it feels gritty and slower. Sometimes it won't go all the way down and even when I'm pulling up it's slow. When I had my Joplin 3, even with the lever I was able to pull the saddle up.


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

bongski said:


> Finally got mine. I've been running a regular seatpost on my Trans am.
> A few things I noticed compared to my Lev, on my fs, is that it feels gritty and slower. Sometimes it won't go all the way down and even when I'm pulling up it's slow. When I had my Joplin 3, even with the lever I was able to pull the saddle up.


My experience with the remote version is much different. I'm assuming it's because I don't have to "think" about it as much and because the remote version has adjustability. My seat will drop all the way to the bottom with ease and returns to full length fast enough.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

s0ul_chicken said:


> YES! I have my eTen post back from KS, along with a heavier spring in case I have further issues. He suggests cleaning the spring assy often, as mine was very mucked up. The spring, button head, and push rod come out by simply taking needle nose pliers and pulling straight up on the button. The button is held in a by an o-ring, so removal is simple. Hope the pic helps!
> 
> View attachment 931193
> 
> ...


I tried this with no success. Is there any trick to pulling this button out?


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

sand wedge said:


> I tried this with no success. Is there any trick to pulling this button out?


Not that I am aware of. I used my Leatherman needle nose pliers, and it came right out of the top of the post.


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

Since I could not service the spring assembly, I sent my post in for Warranty as it was slow to return and not fully lock at the top position. Filled in the RMA form and sent it in last Monday. Will update when I get it back.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Pulled my eTen for a LEV a bit back. I'm building a new bike so I grabbed the LEV which has been sitting compressed for months. Sill works flawlessly!


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

I thought I had read someone else having this issue but could not find it with a quick look through all the posts.

Recently my seat has started creaking a bit. At first I thought it was just the saddle but then I noticed that the head of the post actually has a few degrees of turning (shifting the nose left or right) and seems that the top is loose. Has anyone else had this issue? If so were you able to remedy yourself or did you have to send off to KS? 

And don't know if anyone else has had this happen but the nut on the back of my remote finally stripped out the plastic housing that holds it. Not a huge deal as the nut is still on there tight enough to hold the remote in a decent location and not move much under normal use but it has started getting looser. I ordered the KS Southpaw and should have tomorrow to replace seeing as I just went 1x drivetrain.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

gregnash said:


> I thought I had read someone else having this issue but could not find it with a quick look through all the posts.
> 
> Recently my seat has started creaking a bit. At first I thought it was just the saddle but then I noticed that the head of the post actually has a few degrees of turning (shifting the nose left or right) and seems that the top is loose. Has anyone else had this issue? If so were you able to remedy yourself or did you have to send off to KS?
> 
> And don't know if anyone else has had this happen but the nut on the back of my remote finally stripped out the plastic housing that holds it. Not a huge deal as the nut is still on there tight enough to hold the remote in a decent location and not move much under normal use but it has started getting looser. I ordered the KS Southpaw and should have tomorrow to replace seeing as I just went 1x drivetrain.


The shifting issue left and right is normal, but it doesn't seem to affect performance of the post. No need to send it off as it is like that on all the eTens.

The creaking itself can be the post clamp being too tight. I had the very same issue, and I had it torqued to the lowest spec KS recommended. Turns out, once I went back 1Nm, the creaking stopped and I haven't had an issue since. Sounds strange, believe me, but it works.


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

Ok good to know thanks. I will mess with the saddle when I get the new remote tomorrow.

EDIT:
So I got the new KS Southpaw last night, construction is nice quality and metal all around not the composite plastic that the eTen remote is. It has the built in barrel adjuster and really is quite nicely built, worth $50 meh not sure about that but again everything is metal on this so that is a definite bonus, other good thing is that the clamp for the handlebars is a jaw style not a ring clamp like the others so you can take it on/off without having to remove your grip. 
Paddleshifter style remote is quite nice and seems pretty responsive since I didn't get to play with it more than just a few minutes last night as the UPS guy didn't come by until after 7pm I will test today. Setup was super easy as always.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

UPDATE:

KS received the post on Feb 5th but I followed up 2 weeks later as I had no update. I called KS and they said they were running a little behind but was able to determine that I had one of the original posts, this was the reason why I was not able to service the post as S0ul_chicken described in his earlier post. KS ended up replacing the cartridge, head, DU bushing, push rod, and piston spring which I think was everything but the original sleeve. 

So it would appear there is a newer version of this dropper and would explain why my experiences are so different with others here. 

I'm very happy with the support from KS!


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## andyfloyd (Apr 22, 2011)

dirtrider76 said:


> Pulled my eTen for a LEV a bit back. I'm building a new bike so I grabbed the LEV which has been sitting compressed for months. Sill works flawlessly!


I have now owned a KS Eten Remote and a KS LEV Dx. The Eten was on my Litespeed I rode last year and it works perfectly. It was a little slow to return and required a little force to get the post in motion at times but it worked great. It was Heavy, the remote was plastic, and the cable tension was something you had to get just right. I loved the post but sold it as my new Blur TR has a 30.9 post.

The LEV DX is a LOT lighter than the Eten. Probably around 250g less. The cable routing on the LEV is SO MUCH BETTER. The post also is way smoother and it takes hardly any weight to drop the post. Its very responsive. I like the gold ano on the stanchion on the LEV better as well, and the remote is alloy and just feels more solid. It was 300 dollars instead of 140 though. I think the Eten is great, but when you graduate to something nicer I think the LEV is where its at. my 2.5 cents


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

gregnash said:


> Ok good to know thanks. I will mess with the saddle when I get the new remote tomorrow.
> 
> EDIT:
> So I got the new KS Southpaw last night, construction is nice quality and metal all around not the composite plastic that the eTen remote is. It has the built in barrel adjuster and really is quite nicely built, worth $50 meh not sure about that but again everything is metal on this so that is a definite bonus, other good thing is that the clamp for the handlebars is a jaw style not a ring clamp like the others so you can take it on/off without having to remove your grip.
> ...


I almost went with the SouthPaw myself, but I couldn't justify spending that much on just a remote lever. I ended up going with a Crank Bros. remote for their posts, I just had to flip the lever around to go where the FD shifter originally was. Since I roll the 1x10, I used the cable guides as well to clean things up.


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## Steele501 (May 3, 2012)

Does anyone else have an issue with side to side play in their seat post? Any way to tighten this up? I can't feel it MUCH on the trail, but its kind of annoying feeling it there off the bike...

Thanks!


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## gregnash (Jul 17, 2010)

I have a little with mine but doesn't bother me. Maybe call KS. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

Steele501 said:


> Does anyone else have an issue with side to side play in their seat post? Any way to tighten this up? I can't feel it MUCH on the trail, but its kind of annoying feeling it there off the bike...
> 
> Thanks!


The play is normal. I'm a very picky guy when it comes to seat position (dare I say anal??? lol). Anyways, like you said, not noticeable at all all during rides, just off the bike. I don't know if this can be fixed and I assume not otherwise there would be eten's out there w/out this "problem". Lets just call it a "feature".


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## sand wedge (Sep 24, 2012)

There is definitely some small play in the seat post however, I cannot notice it while on the saddle.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

gregnash said:


> I have a little with mine but doesn't bother me. Maybe call KS.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Were you able to fix your creaking post?


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## NorthwestAir (Mar 29, 2010)

not sure if this is a dumb question...is it bad for dropper posts to lay on its side for extended periods? when I ride solo, i put my bike in the back of my SUV on its side and drive about 30-90 mins to the trails...is lying sideways bad for dropper posts, does that mix up the oil and air or whatever? holding off on buying a dropper but dang the eten is tempting....TIA


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## BikeIntelligencer (Jun 5, 2009)

I've owned several KS posts. They've all been worth $138...


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

NorthwestAir said:


> not sure if this is a dumb question...is it bad for dropper posts to lay on its side for extended periods? when I ride solo, i put my bike in the back of my SUV on its side and drive about 30-90 mins to the trails...is lying sideways bad for dropper posts, does that mix up the oil and air or whatever? holding off on buying a dropper but dang the eten is tempting....TIA


Not a dumb question. No, it's not taboo to let a dropper post lay on its side. I hang my bike on a hook and the eten post is more upside down than sideways. I just letter fluid settle for a few minutes before a ride. Just set your bike upright and let it sit there while you gear up. You can also cycle the post up and down to speed up the process.

Don't hold off anymore. Buy the darn thing. You won't regret it!

I was on the fence too. Didn't want to spend a small fortune to jump on the dropper bandwagon. The eten is perfectly priced especially if you don't care about weight.


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## cameden (Aug 28, 2013)

ive had mine for about 8 months now and it is still working just fine! im a big fellow too and ride a hardtail. so far i have no complaints. the little side to side is very hard to notice when actually riding is really hard to tell. only difference between the eTen and the more expensive ones is the return speed and weight. works like a charm if ya ask me and i recommend them to anyone.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Mines almost 2 years old with no issues. It's a bit slower than my LEV on my other bike but the seat clamp doesn't creak either so it kind of washs out.


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## gremlin75 (Apr 13, 2014)

gregnash said:


> So I got the new KS Southpaw last night, construction is nice quality and metal all around not the composite plastic that the eTen remote is. It has the built in barrel adjuster and really is quite nicely built


I switched over to the southpaw recently as well. I like it far more then the stock actuator. Constructed better (metal vs plastic) and like the placement better as well. Most places seem to charge $50 but I found it at Tree Fort bikes for $35. Hopefully they don't raise their price to match everyone else


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

gremlin75 said:


> I switched over to the southpaw recently as well. I like it far more then the stock actuator. Constructed better (metal vs plastic) and like the placement better as well. Most places seem to charge $50 but I found it at Tree Fort bikes for $35. Hopefully they don't raise their price to match everyone else


I hope they lower the prices even more! WAY too much for a lever, and even at 35, it is still too much.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

Thanks for all the info in this thread! Had an i950 for several years now, it can be finicky about it's cable adjustment like it sounds the eten can also be. And I've had to send it in a couple times, but it comes back good as new! And it's been a great post overall. 

I was thinking about upgrading to a LEV and moving the i950 to either my hardtail or my free ride bike. And I thought I should change it over to the under seat lever so I could move it between those two bikes easily. (as is I've moved it between three different bikes now and then. But mostly it stays on the AM bike)

Anyway, I was looking for the best price on the LEV and noticed the Eten's. And after reading through this thread decided to just get two of these and leave the i950 on the enduro! Two posts for the price of one! 

I'm sure the LEV is a big improvement, lighter!, and maybe one of these day's I'll upgrade. But these eten posts will be perfect for my older freeride bike that's already heavy as heck and the steal hardtail is heavier than my full suspension AM bike. So another pound on those bikes is no biggie! And riding without a dropper post after you get used to them SUCKS! Getting behind the seat is NOT the same or as good!!! 

Thanks!


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

You are going to like that eTen - for the money, I couldn't see upgrading posts to just get something lighter like you said. The only thing I would consider is looking into a different remote as the one that comes with the eTen just sucks.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

I didn't see "too" many people complaining about the lever in this thread. Some for sure. That's kind of a bummer as it raises the price to 180 or so. (if you add in 50 bucks for a new lever) And then you got to look a lot harder at the older i950's still around for 220 or so. Hmmm, guess I'll only open one of the posts when I get it incase it seems like I'll end up wanting to return the 2nd one to Jenson. (course if the 2nd one doesn't "look" like it was installed I'd send it back too if it doesn't live up to it's promise!)

Has anyone tried just replacing the plastic "lever" part with the metal one from the other model lever? (Actually it looks like I'm seeing a better plastic one, and the carbon one. but the lever on my i950 is metal?) It's only 22 bucks and looks identical. Might be worth a try? (course might be a waste of money too!  ) I'd think flex in the lever could be an issue though when things start to get dirty/gunky and the plastic gets worn?

Both of the bikes these posts are going on are still 2x9's otherwise i'd try that shifter mod to run the post. Which also removes the "southpaw" lever as a choice.

I saw someone used a crank bros lever. But when I googled them they were 50 bucks too?

I'll give the plastic levers a try first, but then I might try the metal levers "swap"?

Also, I see that BTI is now a KS service center in Santa Fe. Should save time compared to when I sent them to KS in California for service.


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## gremlin75 (Apr 13, 2014)

The southpaw might work even with a front derailliur if you mount it up top. Not positive on that but it might work.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

stiingya said:


> I didn't see "too" many people complaining about the lever in this thread. Some for sure. That's kind of a bummer as it raises the price to 180 or so. (if you add in 50 bucks for a new lever) And then you got to look a lot harder at the older i950's still around for 220 or so. Hmmm, guess I'll only open one of the posts when I get it incase it seems like I'll end up wanting to return the 2nd one to Jenson. (course if the 2nd one doesn't "look" like it was installed I'd send it back too if it doesn't live up to it's promise!)
> 
> Has anyone tried just replacing the plastic "lever" part with the metal one from the other model lever? (Actually it looks like I'm seeing a better plastic one, and the carbon one. but the lever on my i950 is metal?) It's only 22 bucks and looks identical. Might be worth a try? (course might be a waste of money too!  ) I'd think flex in the lever could be an issue though when things start to get dirty/gunky and the plastic gets worn?
> 
> ...


I never had a issue with the lever but I did get a carbon one to replace a grip clamp. I can tell you this much the plastic one and the grip clamp was lighter than the carbon one that replaces the grip clamp. The carbon one that came with my LEV-ti is different than all of them. They all have the same lever portion and I have never had a issue with any one them.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

gremlin75 said:


> The southpaw might work even with a front derailliur if you mount it up top. Not positive on that but it might work.


EDIT/ Good idea! It certainly looks like the clamp design lets the lever rotate around where it clamps before the barrel adjuster. And then the mount can rotate around the bar before you clamp it all up. So it ought to mount above or below? And it says there are 4 axis of adjustment? (I only see two so far?  ) So I ordered one to give it a try. 33 bucks of of ebay! So i guess ill see if it clears a shifter!

Nice! Thanks again, the lever on my older i950 is pretty worn. So I think I'll try it on that first. And hopefully it works out and I'll slowly upgrade all of then so the reach/feel is similar for all three.


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

Got the posts tonight, it's storming out and the abrupt weather change gave me a killer headache. So I only threw a post without the remote on my Older ReignX to see if I'd get enough extension and rode up and down the block a bit. "just barely" (with a bit of cheat thrown in!). Post feels solid though, I'll get them both installed with the remotes on and out for a ride this weekend to test them for real.

Dropped it down and I was also "just barely" as low as I was dropping the seat last time I was out jumping. Ideally I need a taller post with more drop. But I think it's still going to be good enough for the back up bikes. Only ride time will tell for sure! 

Thanks again for everyone posting such good info!

I did finally find someone using the soutpaw WITH a shifter. Interesting location!

https://www.peterverdone.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/ANDR2201.jpg


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## stiingya (Apr 30, 2004)

Got the Southpaw tonight. Gonna work just fine on the left with the shifter. Thanks for the idea. We'll see if I like it more, definitely nicer than the plastic lever!

Rode over the weekend a few times. This is a 20" frame so I get good seat height on this one. Stopped by the dirt jump park on the way out of town to the mountains and it would be nicer if it was down another inch. Seat hits my @$$ sometimes while jumping. But I suck at jumping, so it's not like it makes any difference! (and haven't been to the DJ park since last summer!)

On the trail descending with the dropper was SO much better than doing the hang back behind the seat thing. Plenty of drop for that. HUGE difference and worth every penny!


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## torbo (Jun 8, 2015)

So I've had an eten remote for about a year. Ive been very happy with it, worth every penny, couldn't even imagine riding without a dropper. 

This spring it hasn't been locking in the fully extended position. It does occasionally work correctly, but mostly it will extend fully, but then sag back down about 2 inches before locking. I know that these are sensitive to cable length and tension, but it will not lock even with the cable disconnected. I'm thinking I'm going to need to send it back to KS. 

Anyone else have a similar situation, and if so, how did it work out with KS? Thank you everyone


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## mtrain (May 28, 2008)

torbo said:


> So I've had an eten remote for about a year. Ive been very happy with it, worth every penny, couldn't even imagine riding without a dropper.
> 
> This spring it hasn't been locking in the fully extended position. It does occasionally work correctly, but mostly it will extend fully, but then sag back down about 2 inches before locking. I know that these are sensitive to cable length and tension, but it will not lock even with the cable disconnected. I'm thinking I'm going to need to send it back to KS.
> 
> Anyone else have a similar situation, and if so, how did it work out with KS? Thank you everyone


One thing I have noticed with mine is that if you ride in muddy conditions dirt accumulates in the lever mechanism under the seat. This then causes the lever that actuates the movement of the post to not return or which then causes the post to return and sag, similar to the problem you have. I usually turn the bike upside down and give the mechanism a blast of T9 or some other lubricant and then compressed air and it returns to functioning properly. You can also pull the seat off and pull the mechanism apart to clean it properly.


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## torbo (Jun 8, 2015)

mtrain said:


> One thing I have noticed with mine is that if you ride in muddy conditions dirt accumulates in the lever mechanism under the seat. This then causes the lever that actuates the movement of the post to not return or which then causes the post to return and sag, similar to the problem you have. I usually turn the bike upside down and give the mechanism a blast of T9 or some other lubricant and then compressed air and it returns to functioning properly. You can also pull the seat off and pull the mechanism apart to clean it properly.


took it off and cleaned it out, unfortunately didn't help


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## gremlin75 (Apr 13, 2014)

Unscrew the top cap, compress the post all the way down, screw the top cap back down (while the post is still compressed) 

See if that helps.


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## torbo (Jun 8, 2015)

gremlin75 said:


> Unscrew the top cap, compress the post all the way down, screw the top cap back down (while the post is still compressed)
> 
> See if that helps.


The top cap being the plunger thing that is pushed down by the lever on the post? or the cap with the allen key hole on the bottom of the post?


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## gremlin75 (Apr 13, 2014)

torbo said:


> The top cap being the plunger thing that is pushed down by the lever on the post? or the cap with the allen key hole on the bottom of the post?


Yeah that was just REALLY bad wording on my part!!

What I'm actually talking about is the threaded collar in the middle of the post. So let's try this again, lol

Unscrew the collar, compress the post all the way down, screw the collar back down (while the post is still compressed)

See if that helps


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

I am on my second post cover, but this one is much thicker material so it is wearing much better. I took an electronics velcro wrap and secured it around the post collar so there is no chance of debris getting up in there.





And here is a mud shot from a ride not too long ago with the first cover. It really does a brilliant job!


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## cameden (Aug 28, 2013)

ive been rocking the eTen since last spring with no problems at all, great post, cant imagine riding without a dropper now, only complaints are its a little heavy and slower return rate.....so i decided to upgrade to the Dropzone, Jenson had it on sale for $175 bucks shipped. def worth it, everything about it is nicer, lighter, faster, more travel, coated cable makes it smoother, alloy remote, and cool red accents. not to say the eTen wasnt bad, but for a little more the Dropzone is significantly better. only issue is that ive only had a few rides on it so we'll have t see how it holds up.


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## torbo (Jun 8, 2015)

torbo said:


> So I've had an eten remote for about a year. Ive been very happy with it, worth every penny, couldn't even imagine riding without a dropper.
> 
> This spring it hasn't been locking in the fully extended position. It does occasionally work correctly, but mostly it will extend fully, but then sag back down about 2 inches before locking. I know that these are sensitive to cable length and tension, but it will not lock even with the cable disconnected. I'm thinking I'm going to need to send it back to KS.
> 
> Anyone else have a similar situation, and if so, how did it work out with KS? Thank you everyone


just a quick update.....Sent it to KS on saturday via priority mail. Recieved it back the following monday, 9 days total. They replaced the head, acuator, stantion, pushrod, bushing and cartidge. So basically the whole thing is new. Works great now, honestly better than when it was brand new. I could not possibly be more impressed with the speed and generosity of their customer service. This experience has made me a customer for life.


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## cadmus (Apr 26, 2015)

Just got one. 
Manual says "friction paste. not grease"
WHY? i am concerned because 100mm and 125mm is not enough, i will have to move the seat post using the old fashioned quick release collar as i move from mountain trails to flat roads. so grease is what i would prefer. Is use of grease or frequent moving in the seat tube going to damage this dropper post?


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

cadmus said:


> Just got one.
> Manual says "friction paste. not grease"
> WHY? i am concerned because 100mm and 125mm is not enough, i will have to move the seat post using the old fashioned quick release collar as i move from mountain trails to flat roads. so grease is what i would prefer. Is use of grease or frequent moving in the seat tube going to damage this dropper post?


The idea here is to keep your post in the most static position while at full length. With the force of your weight dropping on the post when you engage the activator could push your post down into your seat tube which isn't ideal.

I think most people set the post to what's most desired for pedaling while in the saddle. Use the dropper to adjust the seat to whatever type of technical/descent riding you are performing. Hence why friction paste is recommended. Set it and forget it. Use the dropper functionality to adjust the post.

I think your case is unique. Using grease won't hurt anything but it may make the post move when you engage the dropper. Something to be aware of.

Also, if 100 mm of travel isn't enough for your type of riding, maybe look into a different model? I know the eten is the must budget friendly but you do get what you pay for. I love the eten because it does the job for me. Maybe not so much for you?


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

cadmus said:


> Just got one.
> Manual says "friction paste. not grease"
> WHY? i am concerned because 100mm and 125mm is not enough, i will have to move the seat post using the old fashioned quick release collar as i move from mountain trails to flat roads. so grease is what i would prefer. Is use of grease or frequent moving in the seat tube going to damage this dropper post?


The reasoning behind the friction paste (same thing as anti-seize paste), is it takes much less torque to keep everything tight so it does not slip. Over tightening the seat post clamp can cause the dropper to creak, move much slower, or not at all. You won't damage the post using grease, but know it will take more force to keep it in place vs. the friction paste. I would agree with Poopshute, set your post to the highest you would use it, then use the dropper itself to make the changes from road to trail and leave the clamp alone.


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## cadmus (Apr 26, 2015)

Thanks for the help.

If it wont hurt i think it is the route i have to take. I struggle to find any post with more than 125mm for under $200. I only use 100mm travel between my optimal height when going over terrain and an acceptable height when climbing up rocks. But I would need 200m to cover all of those ideal positions. So i will have to move the seat post regardless.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

Wow - that is close to 8 inches of travel, that is going to be a long dropper post!


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## cadmus (Apr 26, 2015)

they make um
Revealed: Vecnum Moveloc dropper post with up to 200mm of travel - Mtbr.com
but out of my price range

(really 150 would do me ok, not great.)


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Anyone take these apart and service them? I cleaned up the top of mine tonight cause it was sticky and was going to pull the top of the post out to clean the slides and the DU bushing wont come out the post body.

I know the cartridge is not serviceable by the consumer but I could have sworn I saw that you could pull the DU bushing and slides for normal service.


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

Had my cartridge in my eTen fail on me last week while trying to clean out the actuator after a muddy ride. Oil everywhere and totally non-functioning now. KS wouldn't accept a warranty claim since I am not the original owner and somehow the post is already out of the two-year warranty period even if I was. (Haven't these things barely been available for two years?). Had to bring the post to my local shop to get a repair estimate from BTI. $180 and at least a two week turnaround! Ridiculous. I went in telling myself that "worst" case would be ~$100... didn't think the estimate would come in higher than MSRP!


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

Pretty sure you can buy the cartridge from KS and just swap it in. I've had mine out to service the slides and its not bad to take apart. I got mine right when they came out and its about dead on 2 years. A friend had the same thing happen with his post. He tried to clean the top and pulled the accuator rod out somehow.


Mine is 2 years old and has been apart for service but has worked great. Its starting to get slow to come up now. Once it goes I'll either bin it or buy a cartridge from KS.


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

I had found this Kind Shock eTEN Air Cartridge

and was wondering if that was what was needed to fix the post. I didn't want to be buying something just hoping it would work though.

(Also, the other reason I was cleaning the post is because I sold the bike it was on and wanted to sell the post as well.. So basically I just want to fix it so I can sell it. Unless anyone in here wants a cheap 31.6 eten to fiddle with)


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

My e-ten has been giving me some trouble lately. It's sticking a little bit, and I found it to be a combination of dirt/grit in the actuator assembly, but mostly the lever is very sticky. No matter what I do the lever is just sticky. I've changed the cable, so it's not that. I may try to use some very fine sand paper in the joint of the lever and see if I can loosen it up.


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## dirtrider76 (Sep 19, 2012)

radam25 said:


> I had found this Kind Shock eTEN Air Cartridge
> 
> and was wondering if that was what was needed to fix the post. I didn't want to be buying something just hoping it would work though.
> 
> (Also, the other reason I was cleaning the post is because I sold the bike it was on and wanted to sell the post as well.. So basically I just want to fix it so I can sell it. Unless anyone in here wants a cheap 31.6 eten to fiddle with)


That looks to be it! **** for $30 I'm going to just order one and put it in mine.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Best thing about the eTen is the off set position for saddle. 

Just been changing droppers over between 2 bikes and the eTen has made new 29er feel spot on. 

However the 125mm reverb I took off the 29er to put on my old 650b horse has f$#ked the cockpit up totally!?

Despite weighing a ton, being short and slow... I miss my old eTen on my AM steed =(

-------------------------------------
Opinions are like A-holes... everybody 
has one & they're usually full of...??


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

Maybe this should be in classifieds instead, but if anyone wants a 31.6mm eTen with a busted air/oil cartridge, PM me. Was thinking $50.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

dirtrider76 said:


> That looks to be it! **** for $30 I'm going to just order one and put it in mine.


I wouuld love to see a short write up on how to take the eTen apart!


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

s0ul_chicken said:


> I wouuld love to see a short write up on how to take the eTen apart!


YouTube it ^^ there's a vid on servicing

-------------------------------------
Opinions are like A-holes... everybody 
has one & they're usually full of...??


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> YouTube it ^^ there's a vid on servicing
> 
> -------------------------------------
> Opinions are like A-holes... everybody
> has one & they're usually full of...??


I have looked, and I find services for all the posts except the eTen, but I will keep searching.

EDIT - found.


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## hookuum (Jul 3, 2013)

*Cartridge is an easy replace*



s0ul_chicken said:


> I have looked, and I find services for all the posts except the eTen, but I will keep searching.
> 
> EDIT - found.


You can find a new cartridge online at modern bike $38
YouTube has a vid by KS and its super easy


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

hookuum said:


> You can find a new cartridge online at modern bike $38
> YouTube has a vid by KS and its super easy


Yep, that is why I Edited my post with - found. Thanks!


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Just found this thread. Good youtube link. Will watch it later.
Thanks.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Did anyone find a solution to the gradual drop issue?
Mine seems to drop around 20mm sometimes on a ride.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

dirkpitt74 said:


> Did anyone find a solution to the gradual drop issue?
> Mine seems to drop around 20mm sometimes on a ride.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


Sorted this I think.
Gave it a really good clean inc. mechanism and then sprayed with fenwick suspension lube. Now seems rock solid on the last couple rides.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## pdiddy (Sep 20, 2008)

I have a dumb eten install question. I need to shorten the cable housing, but that means that I lose one of the end caps on the cable housing. Both the post head and the 90 degree noodle seem to fit perfectly around the end caps. So, what is the process here? I am thinking keep the end cap on the end that will go into the post head, and put the other end in the noodle?


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

The end caps should pull off.
Make sure you use decent cutters on the outer so it doesn't crush.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


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## Poopshute (Mar 25, 2010)

dirkpitt74 said:


> The end caps should pull off.
> Make sure you use decent cutters on the outer so it doesn't crush.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


Yeah, just pull that cap straight off, cut to size, push cap back on.


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## pdiddy (Sep 20, 2008)

dirkpitt74 said:


> The end caps should pull off.
> Make sure you use decent cutters on the outer so it doesn't crush.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk


Thanks. I did try to pull a cap off before, but didn't pull very hard. I tried again now that I know that's the correct thing to do. This time I applied more force and was able to pull one of the caps off.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

think my cartridge is slowly packing up...

Have to wait a minute or two for it to lock out fully extended...

took external parts off today to give a good clean, but still no love.

Q: can we pull out the silver nib (what the lever pushes down on)?

Think I read somewhere that we can to give a good clean around/under it...

-----------------------------------------------------------
'Yes! I'm an opinionated Mofo... Next question'.


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## Skins45 (Jul 31, 2015)

Bought an eten Monday. Put it on the bike and tested on my street and it was working 100%. Put the bike in the trunk overnight so I could leave for work early then hit the trails. Got to the trail and the damn thing is locked full up, zero play. I checked the cable tension, remote, and pulled the lever manually to try. Nothing. Is this because it was on its side for 18 hours? I knew it would be stiff and I'd have to cycle but after a few hours I still have nothing.

I'm pretty frustrated as I have yet to take it out of my car/garage and its not dirty. I have a trip this weekend that I bought it specifically for.. Any help?


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Skins45 said:


> Bought an eten Monday. Put it on the bike and tested on my street and it was working 100%. Put the bike in the trunk overnight so I could leave for work early then hit the trails. Got to the trail and the damn thing is locked full up, zero play. I checked the cable tension, remote, and pulled the lever manually to try. Nothing. Is this because it was on its side for 18 hours? I knew it would be stiff and I'd have to cycle but after a few hours I still have nothing.
> 
> I'm pretty frustrated as I have yet to take it out of my car/garage and its not dirty. I have a trip this weekend that I bought it specifically for.. Any help?


too tight in the collar perhaps?

-----------------------------------------------------------
'Yes! I'm an opinionated Mofo... Next question'.


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## Timothy G. Parrish (Apr 13, 2014)

targnik said:


> think my cartridge is slowly packing up...
> 
> Have to wait a minute or two for it to lock out fully extended...
> 
> ...


Yes, you can pull the silver button thing out. I used an awl to lift/push it up.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


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## Skins45 (Jul 31, 2015)

targnik said:


> too tight in the collar perhaps?


Ah yes, forgot to mention that I completely loosened the collar and moved to whole post down. Still no movement.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Timothy G. Parrish said:


> Yes, you can pull the silver button thing out. I used an awl to lift/push it up.
> 
> Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk


So you jimmied it out with the awl?

Tried some pliers, they weren't narrow enough =(

Sent from my Kin[G]_Pad ™


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## Timothy G. Parrish (Apr 13, 2014)

targnik said:


> So you jimmied it out with the awl?
> 
> Tried some pliers, they weren't narrow enough =(
> 
> Sent from my Kin[G]_Pad ™


Yeah, I had tried pliers first too with no success. You just need something to pull it up just a bit; there's an o-ring on the button that has it in there snug.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

My eTen is only staying up (weighted) after 9 seconds of non weighted-ness... took the nib out and it was all clean inside hole.
Thinking the air cartridge is dying a slow and painful death!
Mulling over is it worth getting new cartridge (+shipping and labour costs) or going for another budget option e.g. Giant Contact (+shim o/c)

-----------------------------------------------------------
'Yes! I'm an opinionated Mofo... Next question'.


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## Timothy G. Parrish (Apr 13, 2014)

targnik said:


> My eTen is only staying up (weighted) after 9 seconds of non weighted-ness... took the nib out and it was all clean inside hole.
> Thinking the air cartridge is dying a slow and painful death!
> Mulling over is it worth getting new cartridge (+shipping and labour costs) or going for another budget option e.g. Giant Contact (+shim o/c)
> 
> ...


I had the same issue with mine. Cartridge was loosing pressure. It was serviced under warranty, but it had me looking at other options for future replacement. On amazon, I ran across a brand called DNM. About the same price range, but looks to be better design and getting 4 to 5 star reviews. You may want to check them out.

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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> My eTen is only staying up (weighted) after 9 seconds of non weighted-ness... took the nib out and it was all clean inside hole.
> Thinking the air cartridge is dying a slow and painful death!
> Mulling over is it worth getting new cartridge (+shipping and labour costs) or going for another budget option e.g. Giant Contact (+shim o/c)
> 
> ...


The cartridge is only 23 bucks, and it doesn't look very difficult to change it out. I guess it all depends on how in-depth you want to take the repair, if you feel like repairing it at all.

I have had mine now for almost 18 months, and it is still going strong with the cover - zero issues since the warranty repairs.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Pulled the trigger on a new air cartridge ^^ father in law, who's a general fix it whiz... will be able to strip it down - and build it back up for me.

Sent from my Kin[G]_Pad ™


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## Jaxxx (Jun 16, 2014)

I read a few pages but don't have time to read all since I want to order a dropper soon. 

In conclusion , is this a decent buy?..


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

YES! Especially when deals are being had at 100 bucks or less. WTH are you waiting for?


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Seconded! I just wish they made a 125mm or 150mm version.


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## Jaxxx (Jun 16, 2014)

Less than $100?? Where at?? So I can order


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## jpgolf14 (Jan 25, 2015)

Hey guys. I just picked up a Commencal hardtail that came with the Eten. I mostly like this dropper by I find that I cannot get as much seat angle (nose up) as I am looking for. At best it does about level. I like to run a few degrees nose up. Normally seat posts have a ton of adjustment. Am I missing something?









Thanks,

John


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

the clamps that hold the rails can shift within the seat head teeth (not sure if actual name) 

-----------------------------------------------------------
'Yes! I'm an opinionated Mofo... Next question'.


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## jpgolf14 (Jan 25, 2015)

d


targnik said:


> the clamps that hold the rails can shift within the seat head teeth (not sure if actual name)


I think I understand what you are saying, but it is maxed out on adjustment. The pictures below show the extremes of adjustment.


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## jpgolf14 (Jan 25, 2015)




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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Nose in mine goes plenty high enough... cramps my style ;-) you know what I mean..

Also found out today... don't squirt oil/lube/**** on the button underneath actuator. 

It'll pool in the internals and FUBAR the up/down motion.

Just got mine serviced today ($20 usd) thought it was the cartridge that was poked so went and bought another on line >.< 

O-well, at least I have a back up cartridge (lbs put new one in + gave it a full service)

-----------------------------------------------------------
-=snifff!!=- What's that you say?


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

I just hit 1000 miles on the bike and dropper this season so far, looking forward to a weekend in December to where I can take out the dropper and give it a good once-over. No issues with the cover installed, so I am curious how clean the assembly will be. I just ordered a spare cartridge since they are so cheap, for a just-in-case scenario as I am at the point to where I will never ride without a dropper again. Way too much fun!


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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

I have searched youtube and this thread for replacing the cartridge on the Eten. I can't seem to be able to find anything. Post is apart but I can't remove the cartridge. Anybody done it yet?


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Does it show it on this video:





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## aminkman (May 6, 2008)

Negative, video only shows basic (clean & lube) maintenance. Surely someone has replaced it?


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

My mistake. I'm sure I've seen a video with the cartridge replacment.
Will have another look and see what I can find.

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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Does anyone know if the eten lever is convertible to the remote?

I tried checking their website out but it looks like it's been hijacked or something.


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## Lukiwiki (Sep 6, 2013)

Nope, I was also interested to convert my eten with lever to remote , but the tech reply was negative.


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## joshhan (Apr 1, 2011)

Lukiwiki said:


> Nope, I was also interested to convert my eten with lever to remote , but the tech reply was negative.


Dang. Thanks for the info.


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## Gilarider (Jul 13, 2009)

aminkman said:


> I have searched youtube and this thread for replacing the cartridge on the Eten. I can't seem to be able to find anything. Post is apart but I can't remove the cartridge. Anybody done it yet?


Any luck with this? I am going to put a new cartridge in and am looking for instructions.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

Pay a pro to do it, ya tight barhstard ;-P cost ya like $10-$15!!

-----------------------------------------------------------
#1 resolution... Ride it like I stole it!!


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## Gilarider (Jul 13, 2009)

So it is not that hard to replace the cartridge: Unscrew the bottom, take the head totally apart and there is a 5mm hex fitting down in it to unscrew, and then the cartridge comes out. 

The cartridge is full-on camper shell technology, and the new one is still pretty slow, but at least it extends fully now.


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## s0ul_chicken (Aug 1, 2013)

targnik said:


> Pay a pro to do it, ya tight barhstard ;-P cost ya like $10-$15!!


So you have never asked for help at this forum for anything?


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## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

Just ordered mine! Can't wait for my first dropper! I figured i can't go wrong at that price, even if I sell my bike to upgrade.


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## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

Follow up, I love my eten! Yes, a little heavy but it works very nicely and it already made my last rides faster, safer and more fun! The hype is real.


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## iLike29er (Apr 1, 2012)

Gilarider said:


> So it is not that hard to replace the cartridge: Unscrew the bottom, take the head totally apart and there is a 5mm hex fitting down in it to unscrew, and then the cartridge comes out.
> 
> The cartridge is full-on camper shell technology, and the new one is still pretty slow, but at least it extends fully now.


How do you actually remove the silver air cartridge from the black stanchion tube?? I'm having trouble with separating them out. It looks as if there's some type of bushing holding the two together (towards the bottom end), but not sure how to get that bushing out. As for the screw you're talking about, I'm not seeing any screw to separate the two. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Gilarider (Jul 13, 2009)

iLike29er said:


> How do you actually remove the silver air cartridge from the black stanchion tube?? I'm having trouble with separating them out. It looks as if there's some type of bushing holding the two together (towards the bottom end), but not sure how to get that bushing out. As for the screw you're talking about, I'm not seeing any screw to separate the two. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> View attachment 1070001


Stick an allen wrench down into the seatpost head-maybe a 6mm-and hold the post and unscrew the cartridge from it. If you have a new cartridge you can see the allen fitting on the end of the plunger rod.

I don't recall anything covering up the allen head, but if there is just take it out.


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## iLike29er (Apr 1, 2012)

Gilarider said:


> Stick an allen wrench down into the seatpost head-maybe a 6mm-and hold the post and unscrew the cartridge from it. If you have a new cartridge you can see the allen fitting on the end of the plunger rod.
> 
> I don't recall anything covering up the allen head, but if there is just take it out.


That was it!! thanks so much for the help! I would have never guessed that it unscrewed from the top inside the seatpost head.

So, I wanted to replace the cartridge, but something happened and now the dropper post action is working again. It's weird. On the bright side, I won't have to purchase a new cartridge. Not sure what I did, but it's working now.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

I just did a full service to my eTen post. Now I've had my post since they were first introduced, about 3-4 years ago I guess? I've never done anything except unscrew the collar by hand and pack some slick honey in there. So it was due.

Well the post has been acting funny since I went on a few rain rides. I thought it was the lever sticking, but it was the actuator button that was very slow to return.

I followed the video on youtube for the service, but then I took it a step further since the actuator was still not returning quickly.

I pulled the actuator button out of the seatpost with needle nose pliers. There is a long rod that presses on the cartridge actuator deep in the cartridge. This will slide out when you turn the post upside down. Mine was covered with rusty gunk.

Next I just sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner down the hole, and blew it with an air gun. I cleaned and put the actuator rod back in and cycled the cartridge. Did this about 10 times to finally get it so there was no rusty gunk coming out. I then dripped some lightweight oil down the cartridge tube and put the actuator rod back in and cycled it a few dozen times until it was returning quickly, then put it all back together.

Works like new again! Hope this helps.


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## DirtDobber04 (Jun 1, 2015)

I have recently gotten a KS eten and have noticed intermittently that it stays stuck in the up position when I start my ride. After I ride about 10 minutes it works again flawlessly for the rest of the ride. My seat clamp is not overly tight, the remote lever and the action lever at the post work perfectly during the post being stuck. Anyone else see this issue with theirs?


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

How are you storing/transporting your bike?

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## DirtDobber04 (Jun 1, 2015)

dirkpitt74 said:


> How are you storing/transporting your bike?
> 
> k


I store the bike hanging from the front wheel usually. During transport it's on a tire tray rack.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

That might be why. The eten has an open bath damper so it takes a while for the oil to settle back down. Which means the post will be hard to move initially. 

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## DirtDobber04 (Jun 1, 2015)

dirkpitt74 said:


> That might be why. The eten has an open bath damper so it takes a while for the oil to settle back down. Which means the post will be hard to move initially.


Thank you, noted and I will start storing horizontal.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Anyone tried the integral/stealth version of the eten yet?
Tempted to get one for my full suspension build. 

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## coop3422 (Jul 12, 2006)

Mine came in the mail today, installing and going on a ride tonight. Got it for $170 CAD, no complaints!

That said, I looked at it quickly and was confused about the install. I get how the cable attaches to the post, but not sure how to attach it to the lever. I haven't looked closely though.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Let me know how you get on. Hoping to pull the trigger tomorrow on one. 

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## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

coop3422 said:


> Mine came in the mail today, installing and going on a ride tonight. Got it for $170 CAD, no complaints!
> 
> That said, I looked at it quickly and was confused about the install. I get how the cable attaches to the post, but not sure how to attach it to the lever. I haven't looked closely though.


You feed the cable through the lever first. The cable head sits inside the indentation of the lever.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Ordered mine today. Downloaded instructions and it Looks fairly straightforward. 

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## zazzafrazz (Apr 12, 2012)

My Eten has served me well for the past two years. The only problems were when the cable was out of adjustment or needed to be replaced, and when it needed collar grease.
I always store and transport it with the seat all the way up because I heard that storing it with the seat down can cause it to get glitchy.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

I got my Eten stealth and cannot make it move at all. Actuator all the way actualized, post resting on edge of seatpost- not in seat tube at all- no movement. Tried loosening the collar- no go. Tried riding it a couple rides-nothing. About to send it back unless there is something else I can try without voiding the warranty.


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## mustang183 (Nov 23, 2015)

dudeist said:


> I got my Eten stealth and cannot make it move at all. Actuator all the way actualized, post resting on edge of seatpost- not in seat tube at all- no movement. Tried loosening the collar- no go. Tried riding it a couple rides-nothing. About to send it back unless there is something else I can try without voiding the warranty.


The first time you use it and sometimes after the bike sits for a while you may have to give it a good impact with the lever pressed. I hit the top with big rubber mallet with the seat off to get it to move the first time. It has worked perfectly since then.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Fitted my stealth today. Will give it a ride tonight and see how it goes. Seemed to be working OK after install and went fairly straightforward. 

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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

Quick update:









Dropper fitted, and working OK - seems to be the same quality as my other non-stealth version.
Looking at it in the frame though I probably could have got away with the 125 drop.

One thing to note though when you're installing it make sure when you pull the cable back as you lower the post do it slowly/gently as the first time I put it in the cable ferrule slipped out of the guide and the cable went slack.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

69tr6r said:


> I just did a full service to my eTen post. Now I've had my post since they were first introduced, about 3-4 years ago I guess? I've never done anything except unscrew the collar by hand and pack some slick honey in there. So it was due.
> 
> Well the post has been acting funny since I went on a few rain rides. I thought it was the lever sticking, but it was the actuator button that was very slow to return.
> 
> ...


Spoke too soon. The actuator on the cartridge is hanging up again. I thought it might be the little silver button that presses on the actuator rod, but it's not. I guess I need a new cartridge.


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## TheBaldBlur (Jan 13, 2014)

s0ul_chicken said:


> YES! Especially when deals are being had at 100 bucks or less. WTH are you waiting for?


Where are you finding it at that price? Best I've seen is 129


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Has anyone replaced the air cartridge before? How do you get it out?

I've taken my post apart to the point where you can grease it (per video on youtube) but I don't see what the next step would be to remove the cartridge.

Thanks!


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## iLike29er (Apr 1, 2012)

69tr6r said:


> Has anyone replaced the air cartridge before? How do you get it out?
> 
> I've taken my post apart to the point where you can grease it (per video on youtube) but I don't see what the next step would be to remove the cartridge.
> 
> Thanks!


Refer to post #282 and #283 in this thread. They will help answer your question.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

iLike29er said:


> Refer to post #282 and #283 in this thread. They will help answer your question.


Yes, thanks! FYI it's more like a 4mm, post #283 says something like a 6mm.

Cartridge came right off, now I just need to order a new one.


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## dudeist (Apr 3, 2013)

Thanks, mustang. i'll try that.


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## EABiker (Jun 24, 2004)

69tr6r said:


> Spoke too soon. The actuator on the cartridge is hanging up again. I thought it might be the little silver button that presses on the actuator rod, but it's not. I guess I need a new cartridge.


Try using a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster rather than carb cleaner. Mine started sinking under my weight, so I disassembled it and found the rusty crud in the air cylinder push rod bore as well. I filled the bore with the oil and let it sit for a couple of hours to let the Blaster do it's stuff, (dissolve the rust). I then ran the push rod into the bore letting it rub the sides for a couple of minutes. After that, I shot more Blaster down the hole to flush it out. The push rod is a fairly close fit in the bore, and it does not take much to add friction. The penetrating oil will dissolve the rust that is in there, and it should protect things from rusting again after assembly.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

EABiker said:


> Try using a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster rather than carb cleaner. Mine started sinking under my weight, so I disassembled it and found the rusty crud in the air cylinder push rod bore as well. I filled the bore with the oil and let it sit for a couple of hours to let the Blaster do it's stuff, (dissolve the rust). I then ran the push rod into the bore letting it rub the sides for a couple of minutes. After that, I shot more Blaster down the hole to flush it out. The push rod is a fairly close fit in the bore, and it does not take much to add friction. The penetrating oil will dissolve the rust that is in there, and it should protect things from rusting again after assembly.


I did use some PB Blaster, but I did not let it sit very long. I got it very clean, and a lot of rusty gunk came out.

Now the problem I feel is that the actuator that sits way down inside the cartridge tube, has some resistance, possibly from the seal that's down in there. Not much else I can do about it. Every time I've tried to drip some sort of oil in there to lube things up it actually gets worse. I've tried several oils, all with the same effect. It starts out working better, then a day later it's back to being unacceptably slow on the return. It seems like clean and dry is what it wants to be.

It's back to the point of the lever returning now, albeit a little slow, but it works.

Thanks EABiker.


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## goodmojo (Sep 12, 2011)

N

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## vaer (Aug 3, 2015)

This dropper post is a gateway to realizing your next seatpost will probably cost as much as your buddy's entire bike.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

New air cartridge installed and it's working perfectly again!

Can someone enlighten me why, other than weight, all dropper posts aren't designed like the eten? A simple $30 cartridge and it works like new again. Took me 5 minutes to change out with basic hex keys.

I also have a KS i900 Supernatural, and I've done a rebuild on that post. It was a major pita! O-rings everywhere, and to add pressure to it I needed 2 people. 

I just wish they made a 150mm, or even 125mm, eten dropper.


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## targnik (Jan 11, 2014)

69tr6r said:


> New air cartridge installed and it's working perfectly again!
> 
> Can someone enlighten me why, other than weight, all dropper posts aren't designed like the eten? A simple $30 cartridge and it works like new again. Took me 5 minutes to change out with basic hex keys.
> 
> ...


:church:

I'm mechanically challenged...

Only cost me $30 nzd at lbs to get it fully serviced... that once a year I find palatable.

$120 nzd to get my Reverb serviced is frickin madness >.<

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## Eric_Sulit (Jun 18, 2016)

I just did the Eten servicing as described in the video except I used SRAM butter instead of slick honey. The post returns quicker now but when I drop the post, I won't stay in place and slowly creeps upward. Could this be because of the cartridge? Thanks. 


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Does it continue to creep upward, or does it stop before it reaches the top?

If it continues to creep then it sounds like something to do with your cable.

Try disconnecting your cable. That will eliminate one thing as a problem.

Actuate the post by pressing the lever with your finger. See if it does the same thing.

If it's the same it could be the cartridge, or the little button actuator that the lever presses on. You can pull that out with needle nose pliers and try lubing the O-ring.

If it creeps a little then stops it could be the cartridge.


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## Eric_Sulit (Jun 18, 2016)

69tr6r said:


> Does it continue to creep upward, or does it stop before it reaches the top?
> 
> If it continues to creep then it sounds like something to do with your cable.
> 
> ...


I will try your suggestions to troubleshoot and report back. Thanks for the input.

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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

69tr6r said:


> I just wish they made a 150mm, or even 125mm, eten dropper.


You can get the eten with 125 drop now - on internal and external version.



69tr6r said:


> New air cartridge installed and it's working perfectly again!
> 
> Can someone enlighten me why, other than weight, all dropper posts aren't designed like the eten? A simple $30 cartridge and it works like new again. Took me 5 minutes to change out with basic hex keys.
> 
> ...


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

dirkpitt74 said:


> You can get the eten with 125 drop now - on internal and external version.
> 
> Sent from my Wileyfox Swift using Tapatalk


Really? I didn't see them on the KS web page, and can't seem to find them anywhere else either.


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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

69tr6r said:


> Really? I didn't see them on the KS web page, and can't seem to find them anywhere else either.


Listed on here:
www.jungleproducts.co.uk/ks/eten

And available from here:
https://www.stif.co.uk/mtb/product/ks-eten-integra-dropper-seapost-black/13775#description

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## RicThot (Jul 15, 2013)

dirkpitt74 said:


> Listed on here:
> www.jungleproducts.co.uk/ks/eten
> 
> And available from here:
> ...


There's no eten integra externally routed version, confirmed by KS.

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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

RicThot said:


> There's no eten integra externally routed version, confirmed by KS.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk


It won't be the Integra if it has external routing.

The Integra is internal only.

I have one of each - 100 drop external on my Hard Tail and the 100 drop Integra on my FS.

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## RicThot (Jul 15, 2013)

dirkpitt74 said:


> It won't be the Integra if it has external routing.
> 
> The Integra is internal only.
> 
> ...


How do you like the eten 100mm (external) ? Really tempted to give it a try, I can't afford a reverb right now... Let me know, cheers!

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## dirkpitt74 (Aug 1, 2015)

RicThot said:


> How do you like the eten 100mm (external) ? Really tempted to give it a try, I can't afford a reverb right now... Let me know, cheers!
> 
> Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk


For the money I don't think you can beat it. Had no issues with mine in 18 months of use.

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## tartis99 (Oct 27, 2015)

Used my eten in 35 degree temperature today, and it wouldn't stay up. Has anyone else had this issue? 

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## Darth Pinche (Feb 19, 2013)

No, I've used mine in 28 degree weather with no problems.

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## Eric_Sulit (Jun 18, 2016)

69tr6r said:


> Does it continue to creep upward, or does it stop before it reaches the top?
> 
> If it continues to creep then it sounds like something to do with your cable.
> 
> ...


I've tried to clean the button actuator and it still creeps up even without the cable and lever attached. Maybe I have to change the cartridge? Is there a description or part number on that?

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## dbone66 (Jul 6, 2015)

I'm trying to replace the cartridge on my eTen. I understand from previous posts that I need a 4mm hex key to unscrew the cartridge from the post. With the hex key I need to push down the dropper button to access the 4mm bolt. The problem is, the button on my original cartridge is stuck, it will not depress, so I can't access the 4mm hex screw to remove it. I'm guessing I'm out of luck, unless someone has another way of removing the cartridge. Any ideas? Thanks.


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## Millennial29erGuy (Feb 5, 2017)

69tr6r said:


> Can someone enlighten me why, other than weight, all dropper posts aren't designed like the eten? A simple $30 cartridge and it works like new again. Took me 5 minutes to change out with basic hex keys.


Because they don't work as well and disposable cartridges are a waste of resources


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

dbone66 said:


> I'm trying to replace the cartridge on my eTen. I understand from previous posts that I need a 4mm hex key to unscrew the cartridge from the post. With the hex key I need to push down the dropper button to access the 4mm bolt. The problem is, the button on my original cartridge is stuck, it will not depress, so I can't access the 4mm hex screw to remove it. I'm guessing I'm out of luck, unless someone has another way of removing the cartridge. Any ideas? Thanks.


I used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the button and pull it out. The only thing holding it in there is an O-ring. It does get kind of gunked up though, so you may have some dirt, etc. Try a blast of penetrating oil first, and you may have to twist it.


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

Eric_Sulit said:


> I've tried to clean the button actuator and it still creeps up even without the cable and lever attached. Maybe I have to change the cartridge? Is there a description or part number on that?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, my post did the same thing. I kept looking at the button and the actuator as the source of the problem. In the end, it needed a new cartridge.


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## Tunesoul (Sep 6, 2015)

I've actually done a full review of the eTen, you can check it out below! Hope y'all find it helpful! Please give it a thumbs up if you like the review!


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## phile (Mar 19, 2017)

Day 2 of ownership, stuck in the full-up position. Should I return it or DIY service it? Sounds like it's not a fatal condition, but I wonder if I got a relative lemon and would be better off with a replacement (of the same kind for now).


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## Eric_Sulit (Jun 18, 2016)

phile said:


> Day 2 of ownership, stuck in the full-up position. Should I return it or DIY service it? Sounds like it's not a fatal condition, but I wonder if I got a relative lemon and would be better off with a replacement (of the same kind for now).


That happened to me twice in the three months I used it. And then while riding the bumpy stuff it suddenly worked again. So maybe you should DIY service it first.

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## phile (Mar 19, 2017)

Eric_Sulit said:


> That happened to me twice in the three months I used it. And then while riding the bumpy stuff it suddenly worked again. So maybe you should DIY service it first.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So, I used a plastic-faced mallet directly on the seat post (seat removed) to free it. Then it stuck up again on the 3rd ride--but then unstuck at some point in the ride (I kept trying it). I sent KS an email, and a tech speculated that the actuator just wasn't getting pulled far enough.

I knew that hadn't been the problem the first time--I had manually pushed the actuator several times. But I readjusted the cable, and put some thin chain lube on the shaft (on the bushing at the insertion point, under the collar, which unthreaded by hand).

At some point shortly after this, the post started working great--it pops up much more quickly now (it had been pretty sluggish). No idea what combo of break-in time, lubrication (or thinning of existing lubrication), hammer, butt-slam, etcetera did the trick.

I can't say anything about its long-term reliability/durability, but for now it's working beautifully. Crossed fingers!


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## Coyote_Lover (Apr 16, 2017)

Just picked this up - being delivered on Wednesday. I'm running a 1x DB Mason Trail...I am assuming this can be mounted on the left side without additional components? I don't remember being asked when ordering to choose a side...hopefully it's able to be mounted on the left side - LBS is putting it on for me.


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## RicThot (Jul 15, 2013)

Mine is on the left side and I didn't need anything not avail in the box, no worries!! 

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## phile (Mar 19, 2017)

Coyote_Lover said:


> Just picked this up - being delivered on Wednesday. I'm running a 1x DB Mason Trail...I am assuming this can be mounted on the left side without additional components? I don't remember being asked when ordering to choose a side...hopefully it's able to be mounted on the left side - LBS is putting it on for me.


It's a totally symmetrical remote--the pivot is in line with the assembly (vs out to the side), and the whole assembly is quite narrow. It's pretty different from others I've seen, which look much more like shift levers. I think the design is great--it works well even with a front derailleur. The only improvement I'd like is a split design for installation without removing a grip.

My post still occasionally gets stuck in the up position, which is frustrating when it happens. The last time it happened I spent half an hour by the trail using a rock to hammer on it with different strategies, with a spare zip tie holding the actuator completely down. It finally unstuck after a couple of side blows to the lower body, but who knows whether it was those side blows, or all of the hammering combined, or time, or some other random factor. I imagine attacking it with rocks is not good for it, but if it's going to be stuck fully extended it's worthless to me, so I've started caring less and less about the long view.


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## buffalo17 (Jul 10, 2017)

Gilarider said:


> Stick an allen wrench down into the seatpost head-maybe a 6mm-and hold the post and unscrew the cartridge from it. If you have a new cartridge you can see the allen fitting on the end of the plunger rod.
> 
> I don't recall anything covering up the allen head, but if there is just take it out.


Hey man ,
Where do you actually stick the wrench ? Are you unscrewing the seatpost head or I can unscrew the cartridge ( the silver stanchion ) only ? Thanks


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## buffalo17 (Jul 10, 2017)

dbone66 said:


> I'm trying to replace the cartridge on my eTen. I understand from previous posts that I need a 4mm hex key to unscrew the cartridge from the post. With the hex key I need to push down the dropper button to access the 4mm bolt. The problem is, the button on my original cartridge is stuck, it will not depress, so I can't access the 4mm hex screw to remove it. I'm guessing I'm out of luck, unless someone has another way of removing the cartridge. Any ideas? Thanks.


Can somebody help me ... I've tried everything and nothing works ... I stick a 4 mm allen wrench in the push button and tried to unscrew the cartridge but nothing happends ... The cartridge goes round and round and don't come out ...


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## 69tr6r (Mar 27, 2007)

buffalo17 said:


> Can somebody help me ... I've tried everything and nothing works ... I stick a 4 mm allen wrench in the push button and tried to unscrew the cartridge but nothing happends ... The cartridge goes round and round and don't come out ...


Maybe try an impact driver? They have the instant jolt to break free things that are otherwise just spinning in place.


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## RicThot (Jul 15, 2013)

Has anyone else been having "seat angle" issues with this post?

I have it adjusted with the front of the seat as high as the post allow it to be set and it's barely fine when fully extended, although it could use a few more up-degrees....

But when dropped, the front tip of the seat sinks way to much to my taste.

I figured the e-ten doesn't allow much room for adjustment with "steep" seat tube angle...

Anyone else experienced this ?


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## victor2137 (Aug 26, 2021)

How to unscrew top of the cartridge??
Rod is stuck and I cant remove it.
I tried tapping , wd40 etc.
On YouTube video it dropped out right away


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## victor2137 (Aug 26, 2021)

My post is not locking at all.
Is this broken cartridge?
I cant unscrew its upper part.


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