# Klunker build - frame question?



## neo_pop_71 (Apr 11, 2008)

I recently finished my 26" BMX bike, it took forever but was a blast to build!

For my new project I want to build more of a traditional Klunker/cruiser, a few friends have built them and they have a great time out on the trail when they go out together (sure looks cool to see 4 or 5 bombin' together). I'm curious about Schwinn frames, specifically a '53 Spitfire... would this be a solid frame to build up a rider, not a show bike. It has the 3rd straight bar and the brazing around the head tube and surrounding tubes. The price seems do-able, my buddy wants $50.00 for the frame only, no fork etc.. It's been robbed of parts and repainted so there is no collectable value to be gained or lost at this point.

Is an early 50's Schwinn Spitfire a good frame? Too much, look elsewhere or grab it, or ideas?

Any input from those on here that have built them would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

-D-


----------



## Veloculture (Dec 18, 2005)

neo_pop_71 said:


> I recently finished my 26" BMX bike, it took forever but was a blast to build!
> 
> For my new project I want to build more of a traditional Klunker/cruiser, a few friends have built them and they have a great time out on the trail when they go out together (sure looks cool to see 4 or 5 bombin' together). I'm curious about Schwinn frames, specifically a '53 Spitfire... would this be a solid frame to build up a rider, not a show bike. It has the 3rd straight bar and the brazing around the head tube and surrounding tubes. The price seems do-able, my buddy wants $50.00 for the frame only, no fork etc.. It's been robbed of parts and repainted so there is no collectable value to be gained or lost at this point.
> 
> ...


That will work just fine. I prefer the early 30's Excelsior frame with the strait down tube though. I tried to go with a traditional build (for the most part) but most people that build Klunkers don't.


----------



## neo_pop_71 (Apr 11, 2008)

Thanks for the reply! That's good to know that it will work for what I want. I've been looking for a pre-war for quite a few months, they don't turn up much, and when they do the owner wants a mint for them (to be expected). I saw plenty of post-war era and early 50's in the Klunkerz movie, so I figured a '53 Schwinn should do the job well enough. Thanks again for taking the time!

Anyone out there have any advise on building one up? Did you modernize the bottom bracket with the adapter cups? What about brakes? I'm pretty handy with the tools but I don't have a machine shop at the ready... suggestions on cantilever mounts? Drum brakes? I'd like to hear what's worked (or hasn't), I can't really afford to make too many "parts" mistakes. 

Thanks!

-D-


----------



## biss-ness (Aug 13, 2004)

*Klunkers are a Blast to build...*

Usually any older frame will work for a Klunker, but it seems Schwinns were most commonly used. I used a 53' Panthar frame, but I had to stretch the rear drop to fit a modern 135mm hub. I also found a Brake boss adapter which was an easy fit and I could run V brakes. Good luck with your build ! :thumbsup:

Here are some shots from this morning of my 53' Klunk .


----------



## 1 cog frog (Dec 21, 2004)

*Schwinn Klunker*

I actually started with an even newer frame (cuz it was free!), an 80's Schwinn cruiser. More curved lines, but still a similar look.

I used a rear drum brake with 110 spacing, and built a wheel around it. Better than the coaster it came with, but not much! I modded my frame (LBS reamed out the headtube) to take a modern 1 1/8 fork so i can run a real front brake either disc or V. I also machined the adapter to run a 3 pc. mtn. crankset (these can be bought for $20-$30), and used a piece of .875 solid aluminum bar stock for the seat post with a brooks saddle and clamp.

The only thing original on the bike is the frame now. But it is fun to cruise around on!:thumbsup:

Haven't taken it offroad yet, but likely will this summer. Geometry is a bit long and slack with the surly 1x1 fork, but it still handles decently, despite being a bit of a tank.

Funnest bike build project ever for me! I personally machined a bunch of the parts to complete the bike (I teach machining and engineering) so this bike is really my creation.

Keep us posted with pics and updates, I love to follow these builds and see what direction each build ends up going!

frog


----------



## sgltrak (Feb 19, 2005)

neo_pop_71 said:


> Did you modernize the bottom bracket with the adapter cups? What about brakes?... I'd like to hear what's worked (or hasn't), I can't really afford to make too many "parts" mistakes.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -D-


My 1964(?) Schwinn has adapter cups and an 80's set of Shimano BMX cranks. This setup works well for me, but for climbing most of our local trails, the 42x18 is a bit tall. Also, the 1980's Shimano coaster brake is marginal, so I have my eye on an older 1" takeoff fork with cantilever mounts so I can run a v-brake up front. I would consider running it with gears, but it is so much fun like it is, I'll probably just leave it. This is definitely a rider and not a show piece.


----------



## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

neo_pop_71 said:


> Thanks for the reply! That's good to know that it will work for what I want. I've been looking for a pre-war for quite a few months, they don't turn up much, and when they do the owner wants a mint for them (to be expected). I saw plenty of post-war era and early 50's in the Klunkerz movie, so I figured a '53 Schwinn should do the job well enough. Thanks again for taking the time!
> 
> Anyone out there have any advise on building one up? Did you modernize the bottom bracket with the adapter cups? What about brakes? I'm pretty handy with the tools but I don't have a machine shop at the ready... suggestions on cantilever mounts? Drum brakes? I'd like to hear what's worked (or hasn't), I can't really afford to make too many "parts" mistakes.
> 
> ...


Truvativ makes a nice bottom bracket adaptor that will convert the bmx style bb shell to english threaded. Pork chop bmx has them for around 20 bucks, just google it. It is what I used. There are alot of options when it comes to gears and brakes. If you plan to paint the frame anyway it may be cheaper to just have the canti bosses welded on, otherwise you are going to need a drum or a coaster. I went with a modern 8 speed internal with a roller brake. It works pretty well.


----------



## Flophouse (Jul 27, 2004)

*Cantilever Mounts*

Speaking of cantilever mounts, here's a pic of an old pair of Schwinn bolt-on cantilevers I found on ebay recently. They were one of my top 5 most wanted items for about 10 years. I'd never seen a pair come up before. You can see some used on Alan Bonds' bikes.


----------



## rev106 (Jul 9, 2009)

Drum brakes are the ****, they can be dialed in to work well and then you can run anodized rims!

The frame for 50 bucks is a steal.

I'd say build it how you want, there are no rules.

Ride and enjoy, they are a blast to ride!


----------



## vintageman (Oct 1, 2009)

*Klunker frames*

Buddy of mine locally builds up his Klunkers with exclusively post war Schwinn frames with no issues. Most of the originals were prewar Schwinns. Frames design was stronger and bb was higher for better clearance over obstacles. Mine is a 39/40'ish Schwinn Admiral. I laced up a pair of NOS Sturmey hubs from the late 80's (3spd). Beauty of building these is there's is sooo much room to personalized your build.


----------



## sandmangts (Feb 16, 2004)

vintageman said:


> Buddy of mine locally builds up his Klunkers with exclusively post war Schwinn frames with no issues. Most of the originals were prewar Schwinns. Frames design was stronger and bb was higher for better clearance over obstacles. Mine is a 39/40'ish Schwinn Admiral. I laced up a pair of NOS Sturmey hubs from the late 80's (3spd). Beauty of building these is there's is sooo much room to personalized your build.


I really like that one. I cold set my old Mercury and it has been going strong for almost a year. I use it for my commute which includes 4 miles of dirt. This frame is considerably heavier than the DX I am building though.


----------

