# Ways to prevent chain slap?



## DanZo337 (Jun 4, 2012)

My bike feels like it's become a little beast with it's latest upgrades (20mm TA from a 9mm QR, double track rims, fatter tires).... so... the loose clanging noises are now the hindrance.

Just curious of the ways to prevent chain slap... Other than wrapping the chain stay are there any other methods? I see some bikes with this mechanism on their chain ring that looks like it adds tension to the chain, but I'm not sure. It seems like it would mess with the derailleurs to have something that did that.


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## Huskywolf (Feb 8, 2012)

Shifting into one of the bigger ring in front and back helps add tension reducing chain slap. There will always be a little chain slap.

The bikes you see with the chain tension thing are for more aggressive riding to keep the chain from falling off. Not necessary if you are doing XC imo.


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## theMeat (Jan 5, 2010)

What bike and what set-up? 1x9, 3x8 etc. Is your chain too long?


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## DanZo337 (Jun 4, 2012)

3 x 9 44/32/22 crank with a 11-34 cassette

How can you tell if a chain is too long? Is there a way to remove chain links?


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## ghettocop (Jul 26, 2011)

I cant stand chain slap either. Even a little. I was excited when I heard of the X0 type 2 derailleur, but alas, it's ten speed specific, and I will not switch over my entire X0 9 speed drive train at this point. I agree with huskywolf.........for downhill or rocky sections I try to ride in the big ring up front. Makes for some awkward shifting at times, but reduces the noise quite a bit.


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## joeinchi (Jun 19, 2010)

DanZo337 said:


> 3 x 9 44/32/22 crank with a 11-34 cassette
> 
> How can you tell if a chain is too long? Is there a way to remove chain links?


Shift to small ring up front and small cog at the rear. The chain shouldn't sag. If you want to remove links, you need a chain link tool.

More info:

Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Length Sizing

Park Tool Co. » CT-5 : Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool : Chain


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## TheRed (Jan 25, 2011)

A lizard skin will help if the chain's the right length altho you could get some marine electrical tape and wrap that round the stay


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## IoC (May 14, 2009)

TheRed said:


> A lizard skin will help if the chain's the right length altho you could get some marine electrical tape and wrap that round the stay


+1. Look for 3M's 2228 Rubber Mastic tape (aka 'Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape') at your local hardware store. Mountain Bike Action featured it a few months ago as a $5 way to protect your frame and keep things quiet.

It's thicker and more pliable than normal electrical tape and removes easily.


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## Gasp4Air (Jun 5, 2009)

Standard method of determining chain length: 

Remove chain.
Wrap it around the largest ring and largest cog, avoid the derailleur.
Pull it taut. There should be an overlap of 2 links.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

What's so bad about wrapping the chain stay?


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## DanZo337 (Jun 4, 2012)

I wrapped my chain stay with inner tube and then taped it up like I tape my hockey stick, seems to provide adequate cushion for the chain flying around.

Chain length seems to be fine; I think I'll eventually have to switch to a 1-2 ring crank so I can use a shorter derailleur arm and chain. The 3rd ring has deemed itself useless in my riding.


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## 006_007 (Jan 12, 2004)

I use sticky-backed velcro acquired from a fabric store and run a length of it (soft side, not the hooks) down my chain stay - really quiets down the chain slap.

Also recently put a bionicon c guide on and was super impressed with what it did.

Accessoires


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

DanZo337 said:


> My bike feels like it's become a little beast with it's latest upgrades (20mm TA from a 9mm QR, double track rims, fatter tires).... so... the loose clanging noises are now the hindrance.
> 
> Just curious of the ways to prevent chain slap... Other than wrapping the chain stay are there any other methods? I see some bikes with this mechanism on their chain ring that looks like it adds tension to the chain, but I'm not sure. It seems like it would mess with the derailleurs to have something that did that.


Big ring combos help as already pointed out.

Put your bike into Big Front and Big Rear...the RD should be just about straight....

Tighten the B Screw...helps a bit.

My bike is 2005 vintage..... the chain slap has not caused any problems with the chain stay....just some paint chips.


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## Hundun (Jun 2, 2010)

If you can spare a minute and a half, this vid will help. Don't be put off by cyclocross being in the title.






keep the chain as short as possible


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

Huskywolf said:


> Shifting into one of the bigger ring in front and back helps add tension reducing chain slap. There will always be a little chain slap.
> 
> The bikes you see with the chain tension thing are for more aggressive riding to keep the chain from falling off. Not necessary if you are doing XC imo.


I am riding an 26" hardtail and have been doing just that.

Small chain ring for big climbs, Middle chain ring is for most riding up or moderate down. However in fast rocky downhills I will move to big chain ring and larger rear gear. This can keep the ratio similar, but with the chain being on larger gear front and rear it tend to slap alot less. If I am at 14-15 mph on a down hill it is big chain ring all the way. If I need to power up a dip I try to roll as much momentum as possible first and then stand on the pedals to crank out. If I do have along steep climb coming I need to plan to drop to the middle ring to prep, but it is worth it.

That an my lizard skin help minimize the noise.


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## joeinchi (Jun 19, 2010)

Hundun said:


> If you can spare a minute and a half, this vid will help. Don't be put off by cyclocross being in the title


Great, vid. :thumbsup:

Mickey's the man! I've watched a ton of his stuff.


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## Hundun (Jun 2, 2010)

joeinchi said:


> Mickey's the man! I've watched a ton of his stuff.


Yes he is; he's a great teacher.


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## DanZo337 (Jun 4, 2012)

Nice vid, dude's RD cage is tiny compared to mine -_-;


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## Sean831 (May 22, 2011)

Don't stop pedaling!!!


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## big terry (Apr 22, 2012)

old inner tube and a few zipties to hold it in place. silence


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## borbntm (May 4, 2011)

In terms of chains lap and noise overall, I have 3 bikes.....in order, worst to least.

Giant Trance X2 set up is 2x9, long cage rear derailer= The most chain slap and noise.

Specialized Stumpjumper Evo ht, 1x10, short cage rear derailer= Very little noise and chain slap.

Trek 7000 Singlespeed, magic gear ratio ( no tensioner required ) no chainslap very little drivetrain noise at all!!

Pick which one you can live with! Should be similar in most cases.


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## Hundun (Jun 2, 2010)

DanZo337 said:


> Nice vid, dude's RD cage is tiny compared to mine -_-;


The _dude's tiny RD cage_ doesn't negate the fact your chain is probably too long. And aside from that, if it bothers you so much your chainstay should be wrapped.

Most questions can be answered with a Google search in just a few seconds. But some prefer hand-holding and coddling.

Buy people books and they just eat 'em.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

This From Bionicon USA C-Guide Chainguide


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## nyckylim (Apr 12, 2012)

I use a rubber tube to wrap around my chainstay


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## big terry (Apr 22, 2012)

50 bucks for that bionicon, or a free old tube to wrap around the chainstay...hmmm.....


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Actually I can see an argument for a guide like that. Seems like on bikes that are ridden on particular rough terrain, especially FS bikes with the chainstay flying all over the place, a little help to keep the chain on the right route wouldn't be such a bad thing. For those of us who don't usually drop more than 2', maybe overkill. And my inner tube is working fine.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

big terry said:


> 50 bucks for that bionicon, or a free old tube to wrap around the chainstay...hmmm.....


Don't knock it until you try it. I've had inner tubes wrapped around my chainstay for years, you still get the noise and the slap, you're just protecting the frame.

After riding my Specialized with the dangler, the first thing I did after ordering my new Tallboy was order a Bionicon for it. It does make a difference.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

TwoTone said:


> This From Bionicon USA C-Guide Chainguide


Note the rider is in second chain ring and the RD is in a relatively slack position.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jeffscott said:


> Note the rider is in second chain ring and the RD is in a relatively slack position.


 Someone could have shown me this and I would have the same reaction, but I'm basing my recommendation from riding my Specialized with basically the same thing, not the video. I'm actually amazed at how well the dangler worked on my bike worked.


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## megusta (Jun 19, 2012)

your chain is going to slap your frame no matter what, what you can do is buy a sleve that goes on the frame and reduces the chain noise and protects your frame, look them up at pricepoint.


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

I have the bionicon and like it alot. To me it was well worth the $50 I paid. Simple, yet very effective.


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## JoePAz (May 7, 2012)

looks to me like extra drag on the chain. More drag = less efficient in getting power to the ground. I can see how it may work to limit chain slap, but you are going to pay a little each pedal stroke. Plus you are putting wear surface on the outside of the chain. Overtime that will wear it down. Not saying it will cause it to fail, but it is more wear.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Drag, I can see. So I won't be putting it on my XC race bike.  I don't think that a little wear from metal-on-plastic on the outside of the chain matters, though. It's wear between the link plates and the pins that kills them.


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## jeffscott (May 10, 2006)

AndrwSwitch said:


> Drag, I can see. So I won't be putting it on my XC race bike.  I don't think that a little wear from metal-on-plastic on the outside of the chain matters, though. It's wear between the link plates and the pins that kills them.


I get a picture of the thing full of mud and grass with a little sand mixed in...ooouch.


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

Ooh, good point.

So not on my CX race bike either.


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## TwoTone (Jul 5, 2011)

jeffscott said:


> I get a picture of the thing full of mud and grass with a little sand mixed in...ooouch.


LOL from the guy that's going to feel the drag from this thing


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## MikeBurnsie (Jan 19, 2011)

I've had nothing but good success using it. Time will tell. To the OP, the c guide pretty much eliminates chain slap. Is there a price to be paid in pedaling efficiency? If there is it's gonna be insignificant. I've never noticed any crud build up in mine. I would imagine if there was it wouldn't be there very long as the chain would probably carry debris out as it passes thru. It does what it was intended to do, and it's worked very well for me.


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