# Forbidden Bike Co Druid



## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

https://reviews.mtbr.com/meet-forbidden-bike-company-and-the-new-druid

There is a thread in AM but that doesn't get a lot of traffic. This is a big deal locally here in Cumberland but it's also a fairly unique design and is of general bike nerd interest.


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

What's old is new again. It instantly reminds me of a 1993 GT RTS

http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/gt/579837d1289813424-not-single-post-rts-gt-rts3-updated-4.jpg


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## SHAHEEB (Dec 4, 2004)

going to be thrashing one soon enough


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## Jayem (Jul 16, 2005)

Vader said:


> What's old is new again. It instantly reminds me of a 1993 GT RTS


Or Balfa BB7 for the high pivot with roller...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

The one fella I know who's been on one for a while loves it and says "it's the best climbing bike I've been on". I should be able to demo soon. They look very good in person and unlike some new bikes have good tire clearance.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

It’s so nice to see some real innovation in the mtb industry right now. Does anyone know what tyre clearance the Druid will have?...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

This is what FBC posted on NSMB. "Most 2.6s will fit but the clearance is at the limit of what we feel acceptable. We recommend a good size 2.4 or 2.5."

Here is the tech doc. 2.4 recommended, 2.6 max. Clearance looked good on the one I saw.


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## Just J (Feb 14, 2005)

Travis Bickle said:


> This is what FBC posted on NSMB. "Most 2.6s will fit but the clearance is at the limit of what we feel acceptable. We recommend a good size 2.4 or 2.5."
> 
> Here is the tech doc. 2.4 recommended, 2.6 max. Clearance looked good on the one I saw.


Thanks very much Travis!


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

Jayem said:


> Or Balfa BB7 for the high pivot with roller...


I always wanted to try one out.


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## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

I've wanted a high single pivot bike with an idler setup for ages, a bit more travel though. I've always wondered why they don't make the idler position adjustable via some means to adjust the antisquat on the fly or at least manually.


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## CrozCountry (Mar 18, 2011)

I wonder how much extra friction on pedaling the upper pulley generates. Unlike the derailleur pulleys it is under pedaling force tension.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

So amped to see this finally available! Have been considering a leftover supreme SX but its a lot of bike for me. This Druid is definitely bringing the high pivot witchcraft to a wheelsize and travel that is usable for my local trails and ability.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-forbiddens-druid-high-pivot-trail-bike.html

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/forbidden-druid-review/

https://nsmb.com/articles/introducing-forbidden-bikes-druid/


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

Druid or Knolly Fugitive 

@Travis Bickle: Can you post a comparison once you've ridden the Druid? As far as I remember you own a Fugitive


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

We will be comparing them. The guys I work with are much better riders than I am, we all ride a large, and are all very familiar with the Fugitive. I can't imaging a better bike than the Fugitive but I'm ready to be convinced.


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

Great  I'm wondering how the bikes compare in low speed enviroments (techy stuff) and high speed descents. One review claimed that the druid (like other high pivot bikes) is difficult to manual/bunny hop... I'm interested in your opinion once you rode the druid.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Looking forward to hearing more real world experiences. On fast, chunky and rooty descents it must be super plush.

This animation of a jedi suspension, does a good job at illustrating some of the benefits of a rearward axle path.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Vader said:


> What's old is new again. It instantly reminds me of a 1993 GT RTS
> 
> http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/gt/579837d1289813424-not-single-post-rts-gt-rts3-updated-4.jpg


Yep, beat me to it.

Should be interesting to see how this new one plays out.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Travis Bickle said:


> We will be comparing them. The guys I work with are much better riders than I am, we all ride a large, and are all very familiar with the Fugitive. I can't imaging a better bike than the Fugitive but I'm ready to be convinced.


TB - in addition to all your other observations, please let us know if you feel greater driveline resistance compared to a non-HSP set up, and if so, the extent of it and whether this should be a consideration for prospective purchasers. Thanks.

EDIT: just saw CrozCountry's post above. I think we have the same question.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> TB - in addition to all your other observations, please let us know if you feel greater driveline resistance compared to a non-HSP set up, and if so, the extent of it and whether this should be a consideration for prospective purchasers. Thanks.
> 
> EDIT: just saw CrozCountry's post above. I think we have the same question.


I couldn't imagine it'd be that much drag or the reviewers would have mentioned it. IMHO, it cant be anywhere close to the drag of running a minion in the back or tire inserts.

I tell you Mike, I'm ready to jump ship for this one.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> I couldn't imagine it'd be that much drag or the reviewers would have mentioned it. IMHO, it cant be anywhere close to the drag of running a minion in the back or tire inserts.
> 
> I tell you Mike, I'm ready to jump ship for this one.


I know what bikes you have had and enjoyed.

That's quite a statement.

As for driveline resistance, the issue was raised in the PB comments. It seems like a legit thing to either confirm or dispel. I can't think of a better man than TB to do so.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I know what bikes you have had and enjoyed.
> 
> That's quite a statement.
> 
> As for driveline resistance, the issue was raised in the PB comments. It seems like a legit thing to either confirm or dispel. I can't think of a better man than TB to do so.


If im gonna be stuck with a single pivot, it might as well be a high one.

Totall agree, feedback on this is much appreciated (but must admit to not caring enough about idler drag to keep me from buying one)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)




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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Cool advertising video anyway.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

My boss loves it, and I hope to get some test riding this week. Home trails in the video😋.


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Legbacon said:


> My boss loves it, and I hope to get some test riding this week. Home trails in the video?.


Travis, since you've become Legbacon I've noticed a more easy going demeanor. There's a few others in here that could benefit from a username change.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I like when he puts the power down at :46. The ass end of that bike is not bobbing. At all. Same with the out of the saddle climbing at :18.

When you watch Blenki blasting on the Aurum HSP, he is pedalling lots. Maybe more than anyone else out there. Again, with no discernible pedal bob (and, reportedly, no pedal kickback). 

The Druid with that HSP driveline/linkage seems to provide a rock solid pedalling platform, yet be incredibly fast and compliant through the square edged hits. For all the apparent witchcraft and wizardry going on, it is puzzling why there are so few HSP bikes out there at the moment. Perhaps with the undeniable success of the Commencal team (and, to a lesser extent, the Norco team), and now with the launch of the Druid in the aggressive trail category, all that is about to change.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I think we will see a few more high pivot bikes come out. There are plenty of different suspension designs now and I'm sure this will continue to evolve. Looks like i will get a good test ride in because this week looks dry, sunny, cool, and tacky. Mountainbike Heaven. Will it surpass the Knolly Fugitive? I'm doubtful that it's possible but, I am ready to be convinced.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

The Fugitive is a bad ass, kick ass bike. It sets an exceedingly high bar. 

At minimum, my bet is that you will find the Druid's fit and finish (i.e.; quality of construction) to be exceptional. After that, it's anyone's guess.

Eagerly awaiting all your observations...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Going to give it a try this afternoon.









Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk


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## troodontinae (Sep 28, 2017)

Well it's great looking, that's for sure.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Eagerly awaiting all your observations...


and one more



Legbacon said:


> Going to give it a try this afternoon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh hell yeah!


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Holy chain length Batman!!

Don’t over complicate it Robin.


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## David R (Dec 21, 2007)

Legbacon said:


>


Hotness!! Looking forward to the ride report, let me know if there's a Fugitive frame going cheap...
:lol:


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

The stoke is high. Very high.

Patiently awaiting Legbacon's review...


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The stoke is high. Very high _*pivot*_.


fixed it for ya'

After seeing this druid, i had to get in on some of this high pivot witchcraft myself


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> ...After seeing this druid, i had to get in on some of this high pivot witchcraft myself


Nice. Do tell.

I did too. I hope to be posting something further later today...


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## Shayne (Jan 14, 2004)

Based on that video...is it an eBike?

The only time the riders legs moved was when he was PUSHING THE BIKE up hill?!?


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I took it out for a couple of hours yesterday and then handed it off to a workmate who's 2 bikes are down right now. He instructs MTB at Whistler over the summer so I look forward to his take.

A little about me. 60 years old, live for the descents, ride 4 days a week, not afraid to climb, intermediate skills and lots of times in the top 10% on black descending trails ( some of these on a HT) My personal bikes are a Pipedream Moxie and a Knolly Fugitive. 

The Druid. We set the sag at the shop, I checked the tire pressure and swapped the brake to right front. I left the 50mm stem and 20mm rise bar. Ideally I would run a 40mm stem and flat or 10mm rise bar an this bike. I was a bit too upright. I should have taken the time to swap the pedals from the Saints to my XTR Trail, it turn out the pins on the Saints made it very hard to unclip . The large Druid fit my stumpy legged 5'9" body quite well with a nice steep STA. The drivetrain did not have drag that I noticed, but the Minions with Cushcore did. That and it was my 3rd day in a row riding. It was my first time on AXS Eagle and I am not used to it, so shifting wasn't intuitive for me. With my build kit the test would have gone smoother. The drivetrain does make a slight noise, sounds like the lower chain guide. I don't like the moss colour but the bike looks great. The frame had room for my 1 litre water bottle with spare for a frame make or the like. My legs didn't rub anywhere. FBC is located in town here and the shop I work at PT is a dealer. I don't think this biased my opinion???

The good.

1. This bike carries speed in the rough. Like to go fast, you will love this aspect, I did. I think its the rearward axle path that helps here. It felt smooth but without being very plush. Plush enough, especially when you consider it's only got 130mm out back.

2. It is a great climber. I noticed some bob with the shock open on my way to the trailhead. I flipped the climb switch and left it on for most of the logging road climb. I flipped it off for the last bit and it still pedalled well. I would use it on the road, but if it wasn't available I could live with it. The shock's compression was backed off completely. Once on the trail part of the climb it pedalled great, did not wander even with the high bar, the steep STA was perfect for me and, traction was good. I would be very happy with it.

3. Handling was intuitive. Maybe because I'm on similar 29ers but I found the cornering was spot on. Stable and could still be whipped through S turns. 

4. The 450mm seat tube gives me plenty of room for a dropper.

5. The frame looks beefy and seemed stiff laterally.

6. Room for a good 2.5 tire.

The bad.

1. I felt some very slight brake jack. My boss said he felt it so I was looking for it. I didn't brake extremely hard, what I felt was minor and, it would not put me off. 

2. $4000 Canadian dollars for the frame with no stock build kits available will put some people off.

3. Moss, WTF?

I just got my Fugitive last August so I'm not in the market at this time. If I was this would be a contender. Better than the Fugitive, I wouldn't say that. It has the rearward axle path that is an advantage in some situations. Long term durability is unknown but, the hardware and bearings look promising. The Fugitive will still be ridable when there are only cockroaches left. Lastly, perhaps unique to me, it won't accept a Mudhugger mudguard, something I consider essential here on Vancouver Island. I could probably fabricate some kind of adaptors if push came to shove.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Legbacon said:


> I just got my Fugitive last August so I'm not in the market at this time. If I was this would be a contender.


Thanks for the review LB. :thumbsup:


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Shayne said:


> Based on that video...is it an eBike?
> 
> The only time the riders legs moved was when he was PUSHING THE BIKE up hill?!?


What?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> The bad...
> 
> 3. Moss, WTF?


Awesome review Legbacon. Thank you.

My frame arrived today at work. I opted for the matte carbon :thumbsup:

The "tailored" Ride Wrap kit is due to arrive Tuesday. I will build it next week.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I am anxiously awaiting you photos and ride impression. The Druid looks great in black.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice. Do tell.


Hint: It has 180mm of travel and is a high pivot.



mtnbkrmike said:


> I did too. I hope to be posting something further later today...


Well??


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Hint: It has 180mm of travel and is a high pivot...











Congrats man. HSP :thumbsup:

I haven't unboxed my Druid yet. Preoccupied with other stuff. It was a great day at work though...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Nice bottle. Who's your boss, Don Draper?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> Nice bottle. Who's your boss, Don Draper?


***OFF TOPIC ALERT - anyone who is going to be offended to the point of neg repping me (you know who you are - it's the only neg rep I have received on here by the way), best be turning back now***

Legbacon - I had just bought that bottle for my assistant as a little token of my appreciation, cuz she is a Superstar. She recently returned from a trip to Cabo that she has been raving about. The bottle was considerably less expensive than return tickets there 

I hadn't given it to her yet, when my Druid arrived. I thought it would go nicely in the pic alongside the Druid.

Perhaps her friends are now asking HER whether HER boss is Don Draper...lol.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

Ok, possible stupid question...Can you get by with 1 chain on the Druid? Or do you need to piece one together? 

Also, Does the Druid have a non-standard seatpost clamp? It looks to be oval.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

OldHouseMan said:


> Ok, possible stupid question...Can you get by with 1 chain on the Druid? Or do you need to piece one together?
> 
> Also, Does the Druid have a non-standard seatpost clamp? It looks to be oval.


I understand that the small and medium frames get away with one chain, but the large frame requires 1+. No big deal AFAIAC, unless I am missing something.

As for the seat post clamp, here is a pic from the NSMB review:









So, yeah. It looks non-standard. Thankfully it's included with the frame.

Given that my significant other was instrumental in encouraging my purchase, I am going to unbox the Druid this evening with her present. I am hoping there are no bad surprises...


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

OldHouseMan said:


> Ok, possible stupid question...Can you get by with 1 chain on the Druid? Or do you need to piece one together?
> 
> Also, Does the Druid have a non-standard seatpost clamp? It looks to be oval.


It needs some extra links so you are going to have an extra quick link in there. The seat clamp follows the seat tube shape outer but has a regular 31.6 seat post. Just to clarify, it does not come with whisky. My Fugitive came with a flask but it was empty.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> ...Just to clarify, it does not come with whisky.


Or tequila...


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

You can buy bulk chain so it's a non issue.

Who the [email protected] is don draper?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> ...Who the [email protected] is don draper?


Donald Francis "Don" Draper is a fictional character and protagonist on the AMC television series Mad Men (2007-2015), portrayed by Jon Hamm.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don_Draper

As for the connection with the Patron, Legbacon can wade in if he so wishes.

Damn - I'm in for another 6 hours straight of fairly heavy snowfall...looks like I will have some extra time to build the Druid.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Donald Francis "Don" Draper is a fictional character and protagonist on the AMC television series Mad Men (2007-2015), portrayed by Jon Hamm.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don_Draper
> 
> ...


Mad men? I guess i need to get in more. Haven't had TV since 2012 and really only watched top gear and no reservations.

SNOW!?!?!?! Jesus man...we were kicking it in the mid 80s today but the hellish summer of austin will soon be upon us. Speaking of austin, we are pretty familiar with patron here

https://patch.com/texas/downtownaustin/austin-billionaire-john-paul-dejoria-selling-patrn-spirits

NOW get to building that druid! My high pivot is stuck in customs at the moment.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I understand that the small and medium frames get away with one chain, but the large frame requires 1+. No big deal AFAIAC, unless I am missing something.
> 
> As for the seat post clamp, here is a pic from the NSMB review:
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. Post some pics of your build when you're done.



ATXZJ said:


> You can buy bulk chain so it's a non issue.
> 
> Who the [email protected] is don draper?


Yeah, was just wondering.



Legbacon said:


> It needs some extra links so you are going to have an extra quick link in there. The seat clamp follows the seat tube shape outer but has a regular 31.6 seat post. Just to clarify, it does not come with whisky. My Fugitive came with a flask but it was empty.


Just crossed Knolly off my list for half assing it. What good is an empty flask.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Finally got it unboxed.

It was packaged very well. There are a few cosmetic things going on with the frame but nothing significant, and probably capable of being washed off/rubbed out. Likely more fingerprints and oils than anything else.

The SWAT box-like storage behind the downtube protector is awesome. Holy ****. I haven't checked what it will hold but I suspect quite a bit beyond a tube, especially if you want to store things further up the downtube, which is uninterrupted.

Graphics are great. Understated and definitely in sync with the bike's namesake. Very Druid-like stuff going on.

The matte carbon finish is 100% to my liking. I could not have custom chosen a better colour/look.

My shirt and bottle were in the box, as promised.

I sit and stare, and wonder where the $4300 CDN went but that's because that's a lot of money, not because the frame is not incredibly impressive.

I have to decide a few build issues and I need to apply the tailored Ride Wrap kit when it arrives, but I suspect the build should be complete soon. Hopefully within a week or so.

Happy to try to answer any questions anyone has. Otherwise, on with the build.

PS - my Zee Cage with tool fits in the frame perfectly. Room to spare.


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks for the updates 

@Legbacon: Can you comment how the Druid behaves in techy, slow-speed situation compared to the Fugitive? Did you try to wheelie/manual/bunnyhop the Druid? One review claimed that (...because of the rearward axle) HP bikes are a ***** to get on the back wheel.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

bonzoo said:


> Thanks for the updates
> 
> @Legbacon: Can you comment how the Druid behaves in techy, slow-speed situation compared to the Fugitive? Did you try to wheelie/manual/bunnyhop the Druid? One review claimed that (...because of the rearward axle) HP bikes are a ***** to get on the back wheel.


The bar on the demo was too high so I didn't find it hard to lift the front over obstacles. I didn't try a wheelie. As for low speed tech, nothing beats Knolly's 4X4 suspension. The small bump absorption on the Druid doesn't match the Fugitive but was OK.

I road the Fugitive on some of the same trails yesterday and will stick with it for now.

I'm looking forward to seeing that Druid built up, they are gorgeous.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> The bar on the demo was too high so I didn't find it hard to lift the front over obstacles. I didn't try a wheelie. As for low speed tech, nothing beats Knolly's 4X4 suspension. The small bump absorption on the Druid doesn't match the Fugitive but was OK.
> 
> I road the Fugitive on some of the same trails yesterday and will stick with it for now.
> 
> I'm looking forward to seeing that Druid built up, they are gorgeous.


Hmmm...There still may be a little left in the budget, and room in the garage for one more loved one...

I kid. I kid. As soon as the Druid is built, I need to try to curb the bike spending a bit. It's starting to get ridiculous.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Legbacon said:


> I road the Fugitive on some of the same trails yesterday and will stick with it for now.
> 
> I'm looking forward to seeing that Druid built up, they are gorgeous.


The Fugitive has a pretty significant advantage as well...it's paid for. 

The Druid does look nice and the price is a decent value once you factor in it's a niche brand full carbon frame sold in low volume quantities. :thumbsup:

It'll be interesting to see the longer term reviews once the new bike Kool-Aid wears of. It's great to have a bike option with a Vancouver Island connection.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> View attachment 1248970
> View attachment 1248971
> View attachment 1248972
> View attachment 1248973
> ...


That looks really sweet Mike. Congrats!



mtnbkrmike said:


> As soon as the Druid is built, I need to try to curb the bike spending a bit. It's starting to get ridiculous.


you and i both know this isnt going to happen


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks again  I consider Knolly a "niche brand" as well... maybe one with a longer track record.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

A few pics of the "reverse" SWAT box...





















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> That looks really sweet Mike. Congrats!
> 
> you and i both know this isnt going to happen
> 
> View attachment 1248987


Bahahaha!

Thanks man. Much appreciated.

And yeah. Agreed. Hopeless.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I love the storage options this frame has. These days flats are rare so having the spare tube inside the frame and undoing a couple of bolts is ok.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Legbacon said:


> I love the storage options this frame has. These days flats are rare so having the spare tube inside the frame and undoing a couple of bolts is ok.


Yes. Usually a tubeless plug will get you back to riding without messing with a tube, but it's nice to have the tube if you are a long way from home/car and a plug won't cut it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> I love the storage options this frame has. These days flats are rare so having the spare tube inside the frame and undoing a couple of bolts is ok.


Especially if you attach a Big S Zee cage with attached EMT mini tool, so that the "reverse" SWAT box is easily accessible riding packless (plus you still have the second set of bottle bosses under the top tube to run a WolfTooth B-Rad set up). No Dakine Hot Laps Gripper bag (or Awesome Strap) is required for this bike.

I am hoping that come judgment day, the big man above will forgive the relatively minor transgression to the dark side, to be able to have that EMT tool handy (not to mention a pretty decent side loading bottle cage).

Build update - application of the "tailored" Ride Wrap kit is in progress.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Build update - application of the "tailored" Ride Wrap kit is in progress.


use lots of heat


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

I've had my Druid for a couple of weeks now. Build Specs:

Larger Druid Frame Matte Carbon with Ride Wrap
Newmen Wheels
Next R Cranks
Sram GX Shifter/Deraileur 11sp
1195 Casette
SRAM XX1 Chain
Shimano XTR 9120 Trail Pedal
Bike Yoke Revive 185
Schwable Nobby Nic 2.3 Addix F/R
Weight 30LBS on the nose

Observations:

Rearward Axle Path is great fro slow techy climbing compared to the higher chain tension pedalling platforms ie DW link, VPP.... You can almost come to a stop and the rear end will still not get hung up on obstacles. The Horst link bikes in the open setting are also good in this regard. Just not as good.

Downhill stability of this axle path is much more stable than other platform I have owned. Therefore, speed on similar trails is much faster. Kasimer talked about this on Pinkbike.

I'm not a fan of platforms that require a rider to constantly fiddle with shock compression switches. Where I live on Vancouver Island it is mostly rolling steeper terrain and fiddling with a climb/trail switch is a PITA . You just leave it open on the Druid. Good thing, because you would have to perform an advanced circus stunt to change that shock on the fly.

The drivetrain is quieter than I expected given the unique drivetrain.

The height of the chainstay was a big plus for me. I have broken several typical chainstays due to impacts. This chainstay is way higher/out of harm's way

Building the bike was a pleasure. Dropper post is routed through the downtube and there is a nice port molded into the seattube for easy routing. The other cables flow through the top tube. Cable ports cinch the cables when tightened ie. no rattling.

I think my Knollys had better traction. The bike came with 6 clicks of LSC o.n the DPX2 so I could play with that. It might just be that my rear tire is on it's way out.

It climbs plenty well. Kasimer says not like a Ripmo but I don't like the high chain tension designs for my riding. Most other platforms would at least need the shock in the trail setting to be as efficient. I don't do Strava and the like.. not interested in knowing how slow I'm getting.

Running 190 PSI in the DPX 2. I'm 195 loaded.

I've got a Rockshox Pike @ 160 on the front/Push ACS3 Kit 46 offset. I might try 150. Still getting used to it.

That's all for now. Cheers. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> I've had my Druid for a couple of weeks now. Build Specs:
> 
> Larger Druid Frame Matte Carbon
> Newmen Wheels
> ...


Very interesting comments. Thanks. I hope to have mine built by the end of the weekend, assuming no snags. ACS3...nice. I have been toying with that idea myself. Does it play well with your air sprung DPX2?

Any chance of some pics?


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Very interesting comments. Thanks. I hope to have mine built by the end of the weekend, assuming no snags. ACS3...nice. I have been toying with that idea myself. Does it play well with your air sprung DPX2?
> 
> Any chance of some pics?


The ACS3 is a very good product. In my case, it gave new life to older Pikes that tended to develop more or less constant air shaft issues. The coil conversion provided better performance (Traction/consistency) and reliability. It plays nice with the DPX2. Curiously, the rear end on this bike seems to outperform the front when the speed ramps up. I tried to post some pics but gave up. I might try again. J


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

YogiKudo said:


> I've had my Druid for a couple of weeks now. Build Specs:
> 
> Larger Druid Frame Matte Carbon with Ride Wrap
> Newmen Wheels
> ...


Nice. 
How tall are you? I'm on the fence at 6-1 and change and am trying to decide between the large and hopefully soon to be released xl.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

monkeyboyjong said:


> Nice.
> How tall are you? I'm on the fence at 6-1 and change and am trying to decide between the large and hopefully soon to be released xl.


I'm 5' 11" with a 35" inseam. I'm running a 35mm stem. I like the 76..ish seat tube angle and 18-19" reach area for my riding. Your size choice might come down to your dropper length preferences due to the seat tube length on the larger size. I've got use to my 185 and now 200 mm plus is around. Something to consider. J


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

A couple of things I failed to mention:

Standing climbing: If you are the type (Retired single speeder) that transitions a lot from seated to standing climbing the Druid's suspension acts like a DW link with great support without the disadvantages I mentioned earlier. This is a weakness on horst link bikes without flipping the switch.

Kudos to Forbidden: Got to give the guys credit for going the extra mile on the frame geometry. The actual seat tube angles changes with frame size as well as the chain stay length. This is a PITA for any frame designer. It is, however, necessary to give the majority of riders the same balance point on the frame. Well done!


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## Glenngineer (Mar 4, 2014)

I am an intermittent single speeder...that comment has me even more interested in this thing.

But no bikes this year!


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## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

This bike has me very tempted. I'm sure the 130mm rear is great in the chunky gnar but I'm still wondering how it would cope with big drops and jumps. I'm on a very progressive 150mm rear now and I feel like the high single pivot would work better for 90% of the stuff I ride but the big bucks have me concerned. I was considering a Supreme SX or Scott Ransom but I'd be overbiked most of the time and I need a water bottle so the Supreme is out.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

I was in the same boat. I have a short travel trailbike that'll do 90% of the stuff I ride but want something more for the parks. Druid and commencal's success in DH convinced me to build a high pivot supreme sx. If it only came down to one bike, druid all the way.

Hoping forbidden will also produce a 150-160mm bike in the future.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

mtnbkrmike said:


> View attachment 1248970
> View attachment 1248971
> View attachment 1248972
> View attachment 1248973
> ...


damn, that this is teh sex


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## GRPABT1 (Oct 22, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> I was in the same boat. I have a short travel trailbike that'll do 90% of the stuff I ride but want something more for the parks. Druid and commencal's success in DH convinced me to build a high pivot supreme sx. If it only came down to one bike, druid all the way.
> 
> Hoping forbidden will also produce a 150-160mm bike in the future.


Yeah that's the dream. Thing is I have an XC bike and I don't have any lift access DH where I live so a Supreme again is a bit much.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I finally installed my tailored Ride Wrap kit today. In short, it almost cost me my sanity and my relationship. Total hatchet job. I almost cried more than once, and came close to ripping it all off my frame.

And to add insult to injury, I have a second tailored kit that I ordered for my Honzo. So yeah. More good times ahead. 

As an aside, there is nothing wrong with the product. I should have known not to try this on my own. It’s my fault. 

Anyway, tomorrow is the start of the Druid build. Onwards and upwards.


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

@YogiKudo 

Can you comment on the slow-tech behaviour of the Druid and compare it to the Knolly? I'm also interested how the Druid "wheelies" and "manuals" compared to the Knolly. One reviewer stated that the long(ish) chainstays combined with the HP design make the Druid difficult to get on the backwheel.

Thanks


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

bonzoo said:


> @YogiKudo
> 
> Can you comment on the slow-tech behaviour of the Druid and compare it to the Knolly? I'm also interested how the Druid "wheelies" and "manuals" compared to the Knolly. One reviewer stated that the long(ish) chainstays combined with the HP design make the Druid difficult to get on the backwheel.
> 
> Thanks


I think the axle path may make it different to wheelie/manual. I don't do extended wheelies or manuals other than normal to me technical riding moves. Wheelie pops and manuals don't seem to be radically different to me on the obstacles I ride all the time. J


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I finally installed my tailored Ride Wrap kit today. In short, it almost cost me my sanity and my relationship. Total hatchet job. I almost cried more than once, and came close to ripping it all off my frame.
> 
> And to add insult to injury, I have a second tailored kit that I ordered for my Honzo. So yeah. More good times ahead.
> 
> ...


One good turn deserves another........

Any updates


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> One good turn deserves another........
> 
> Any updates


Thanks man.

It's built. Just waiting for a spindle from RaceFace which, based on past experience, could take forever.

Apart from that though, it's done.

I have not weighed it yet but I understand from my buddies (who _have_ weighed it) that it is 29+ lbs with pedals, a 36 fork and Minions. So a decent weight for a large frame, given that there has been no gram counting involved with the build.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks man.
> 
> It's built. Just waiting for a spindle from RaceFace which, based on past experience, could take forever.
> 
> ...


Nice. So looking forward to this build!


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## R3D2 (Jun 26, 2007)

the classified section is down currently but if anyone is looking for a medium black frame i will shamelessly leave this here.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

R3D2 said:


> the classified section is down currently but if anyone is looking for a medium black frame i will shamelessly leave this here.


Interesting. Care to expand as to the reason for the quick divorce?


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## R3D2 (Jun 26, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. Care to expand as to the reason for the quick divorce?


sure. it's more bike than i need right now. i didn't realize it would be such a brawler at 130mm, it's really impressive that way. i ride a lot of slow techie stuff and i should have probably just got a ripley.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

R3D2 said:


> sure. it's more bike than i need right now. i didn't realize it would be such a brawler at 130mm, it's really impressive that way. i ride a lot of slow techie stuff and i should have probably just got a ripley.


Interesting. Would you say that the Druid is not a fun bike in the slow techie stuff? If not, why not? Thanks.


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## R3D2 (Jun 26, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. Would you say that the Druid is not a fun bike in the slow techie stuff? If not, why not? Thanks.


I don't think it's that, I think it didn't suit my style, but it could undoubtedly suit yours. A lot of factors in play here...where you ride, how you ride etc... I wanted a playful, poppy trail bike, and that isn't what it is for me. I'm also finding that I don't love the super steep seat tube thing, I've tried a few bikes with 77 deg seat tubes, and I found that it was forcing me to ride with my weight over the front of the bike and I don't like that. The Druid is a great bike; all the reviews are solid, I'm just not finding great for me. I had an Offering and ended up selling it, and I've been an Evil guy since the beginning. It was more playful than the Druid but not as strong of a descender IMO, damn that Druid can crush square edge. If you want one bike that does it all I'd say the Druid is pretty damn close. I wouldn't think twice about bringing it to the bike park or on some steep techy terrain, that's where it thrives. If you want a snappy sub 30lbs trail bike look elsewhere IMO.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

R3D2 said:


> I don't think it's that, I think it didn't suit my style, but it could undoubtedly suit yours. A lot of factors in play here...where you ride, how you ride etc... I wanted a playful, poppy trail bike, and that isn't what it is for me. I'm also finding that I don't love the super steep seat tube thing, I've tried a few bikes with 77 deg seat tubes, and I found that it was forcing me to ride with my weight over the front of the bike and I don't like that. The Druid is a great bike; all the reviews are solid, I'm just not finding great for me. I had an Offering and ended up selling it, and I've been an Evil guy since the beginning. It was more playful than the Druid but not as strong of a descender IMO, damn that Druid can crush square edge. If you want one bike that does it all I'd say the Druid is pretty damn close. I wouldn't think twice about bringing it to the bike park or on some steep techy terrain, that's where it thrives. If you want a snappy sub 30lbs trail bike look elsewhere IMO.


Thanks tons for taking the time to share that. Very much appreciated.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

My Druid is done.

















Wow. This is going to be fun.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My Druid is done.
> 
> Wow. This is going to be fun.


bastard


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

A whole lotta fun!


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## Kamkam (Feb 25, 2019)

We need more updates lol. This bike seems to be the closest thing to the quiver killer. Trail bike that is fine on tamer single track and can punch above its weight class to ride Enduro courses, albeit slower than a full out Enduro rig.

Define slow techy stuff? Like trials hops to clear large rock faces, with lots of track stands?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kamkam said:


> We need more updates lol. This bike seems to be the closest thing to the quiver killer. Trail bike that is fine on tamer single track and can punch above its weight class to ride Enduro courses, albeit slower than a full out Enduro rig.
> 
> Define slow techy stuff? Like trials hops to clear large rock faces, with lots of track stands?


I have only had mine on pavement so far but I am happy to report that all of my concerns about low speed issues and problems pulling the front end up have been instantly erased. I have no idea what points of reference the MBR author was using but to say that this bike's front end is difficult to pull up is complete bullshit.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Kamkam said:


> We need more updates lol. This bike seems to be the closest thing to the quiver killer. Trail bike that is fine on tamer single track and can punch above its weight class to ride Enduro courses, albeit slower than a full out Enduro rig.
> 
> Define slow techy stuff? Like trials hops to clear large rock faces, with lots of track stands?


The bike is at it's best on slow techy trails as the rear path negates the chain tension present on other designs and doesn't get hung up on rocks/roots. In reality, this difference is pretty subtle but it's there.The slower you are going the more noticeable this is as there is less speed to overcome the chain tension. J


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## Shartist (Aug 15, 2018)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have only had mine on pavement so far but I am happy to report that all of my concerns about low speed issues and problems pulling the front end up have been instantly erased. I have no idea what points of reference the MBR author was using but to say that this bike's front end is difficult to pull up is complete bullshit.


Still too much snow where you're at? Otherwise, I can't imagine being able to resist getting it out where it belongs.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Shartist said:


> Still too much snow where you're at? Otherwise, I can't imagine being able to resist getting it out where it belongs.


It's still very wet at altitude but mostly, I have been under siege following a recent "promotion". I will be putting it through its paces this weekend.

On pavement the bar feels a little narrow (it's uncut at 800 mm), the fork feels a little floppy (it's a 36 at the spec'ed 44 offset), the cockpit feels a little short, and the bar feels a little low. All first world problems that I will tweak if I don't get used to it all.

All that said, this is going to be the nicest bike I have ever owned. I know that already. I can very distinctly feel the benefit of the rearward axle path hitting curbs at speed.

I am a former owner of another of Owen Pemberton's creations - a 2015 Range, which also purportedly had a rearward axle path. Between the 2 bikes, there is no comparison. None. The Druid truly is going to be next level, once I get it in its element.

EDIT: I tweaked the saddle tilt and dropper height which pretty much addressed all the cockpit issues mentioned above. On to suspension fiddling now... Setting sag is not as easy as on other bikes because the shock stanchion is somewhat buried in the frame.

EDIT: There is no additional driveline drag that I detect from the idler pulley and chain guides. If there is, it is pretty much immaterial.

EDIT: Standover is awesome and for whatever reason, I can do a track stand longer on this bike than any other bike I have or have had. Track stands are effortless. I suspect a low center of gravity may be assisting in this regard.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It's still very wet at altitude but mostly, I have been under siege following a recent "promotion". I will be putting it through its paces this weekend.
> 
> On pavement the bar feels a little narrow (it's uncut at 800 mm), the fork feels a little floppy (it's a 36 at the spec'ed 44 offset), the cockpit feels a little short, and the bar feels a little low. All first world problems that I will tweak if I don't get used to it all.
> 
> ...


So bad ass to hear this mtnbkrmike! Looking forward to hearing some trail reports once you find a way to get away from the workdesk.

Have a good one man!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

I am on the edge of my seat.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> I am on the edge of my seat.


:lol:

Try to contain yourself Legbacon.


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## megrim (May 23, 2009)

Lots of great feedback on the bike in this thread. I like how it’s balanced with some guys loving the Druid it, and for one person, it didn’t hit the mark. OK, now where do I start…
I came off of a Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 S3 (stroked to ~152 mm with a 210 x 55 mm shock). When I got the medium Druid frame, I tossed all the parts from the Stumpy onto the Druid. I wasn’t sure I would like the bike, so this was me dipping my toe in the water. I never weighed the Stumpy, but the Druid was a tank at 34 pounds. Remember, ‘low’ end burly build. But the great thing was that I was very comfortable with all the parts, so I could really concentrate on the frame.

Sizing - Coming off the Stumpy with a reach of 475 mm, I was a little concerned going to the medium Druid with a reach of 445-450. But the funny thing is that it didn’t feel all that much different. Some of the reviews have said the bike fits a little big and that’s my feeling too. The one thing I’ve really noticed is the steep seat tube angle. So awesome. No more low back pain! The Stumpy is quoted as having a steep seat angle (effective), but it still feels a bit slack once it’s at the top. The Druid is spot on for the trails I ride most (North Vancouver).

Climbing - I tested the rear shock anywhere between 180-195 psi (I weigh 185 lbs). I didn’t notice a huge difference in climbing efficiency between the pressures. Overall, I would say it climbed very similar to the Stumpy. Stumpy had no idler or chainguide, Druid has more anti-squat. Maybe I’d give the edge to the Druid on the trail, but it’s pretty close. One thing I really noticed is the comfort on rough sections of the climb. I was still able to motor over roots, etc, but it was really comfortable on my rear end. One thing I’ve noticed (with this heavy build), on really slow and steep sections where I’ve already burned a couple matches, I think I notice the extra drag with the idler/chainguide. It’s just that little bit harder to get the momentum to get up and over something. The only thing that makes up for that is the super supple suspension that seems to grip everything when you’re just a few mm short.

Flat sections - All the drag in the drivetrain feels gone when the trail is a bit flat. And this bike is tons of fun to pump all the rollers and hop from almost everything.

Descending - This bike rides big on the DH. Super sensitive initial stroke; it crazy. The only bike that comes close in this regard is my Nomad with a coil. It’s that good. Mid stroke is good, or at least I didn’t notice anything off about it. But that end stroke, wow. Nicely done Forbidden! I definitely use all the travel, but I never feel like I’m slamming off the end of the shock. This bike handles everything very well. The only place where I’ve felt the shorter travel is on steep AND rough trails. Then it’s little harder to rein things in when I get going a little too fast.

Last thing, is the Druid play or plow? When I’ve set the sag in the 30-33% range and rebound on the slowish side, it feels more composed and likes the ground a bit better. At around 20% sag with rebound on the faster side it’s a little more unsettled, but it’s very easy to get airborne. Somewhere in the middle, you get the idea.


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## malvoize (Apr 9, 2010)

Hi! I can’t demo the druid and I am trying to figure out the bike feel. Is it sporty as a yeti or more planted as a knolly for example? I tried the sb150 and loved its shockingly efficient under pedaling forces and playful nature/reactivity for such a big bike. Thanks


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

malvoize said:


> Hi! I can't demo the druid and I am trying to figure out the bike feel. Is it sporty as a yeti or more planted as a knolly for example? I tried the sb150 and loved its shockingly efficient under pedaling forces and playful nature/reactivity for such a big bike. Thanks


The bikes comparable to the Druid would be the Yeti SB130 and the Knolly Fugitive LT. The SB150 is for a different application. It's not a trail bike in my opinion. Leg Bacon has a Fugitive and has ridden the Druid so he may have some insights on that comparison. Knolly changed the pedalling kinematics on the Fugitive. I don't think there is much in it for these three. All great platforms. My wife has an SB5. The Knolly is heavier by 2-3 pounds if that matters. The SB130 would be about a pound heavier than the Druid.My Druid is 30 lbs with pedals and coil front end. If you are on the heavier spectrum, the Knolly and the Druid's rear ends are mucho stiffer than the Yeti. J


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Not enough time to overly comment. Love the frame and sizing. Didn't overly care for the DPX2 shock, which is surprising as I have been a fan of it. The Float X2 matches the fork and my style of riding a bit more.

More to follow...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> View attachment 1257037
> 
> 
> View attachment 1257039
> ...


Interesting. No pop with the DPX2?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. No pop with the DPX2?


I know, unless I got a dud. The DPX2 in general has been my favorite shock and generally prefer it over the Float X2, I like the keep it simple stupid approach.


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

Finally got mine built up after waiting on Fox for a few months...hitting dirt today. A quick note on sizing, I went with a 40mm stem on a large frame. I'm 5'11" on a good day and the sitting length feels a touch short with saddle rails in the middle, may switch to a 50mm after the first ride.

Question to my fellow riders, has anyone ridden this bike with an oval chainring? The one weird thing I noticed when I jumped on the bike is that the pedaling felt notchy at a certain point in the stroke which has me thinking that because of the high pivot design and the bike lengthening as it goes through the travel. Having a chain ring that is changing sizes during rotation may be playing with how the bike pedals? I've been riding ovals for a few years now and never felt this before.

Pics for attention!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

KineticFear said:


> Finally got mine built up after waiting on Fox for a few months...hitting dirt today. A quick note on sizing, I went with a 40mm stem on a large frame. I'm 5'11" on a good day and the sitting length feels a touch short with saddle rails in the middle, may switch to a 50mm after the first ride.
> 
> Question to my fellow riders, has anyone ridden this bike with an oval chainring? The one weird thing I noticed when I jumped on the bike is that the pedaling felt notchy at a certain point in the stroke which has me thinking that because of the high pivot design and the bike lengthening as it goes through the travel. Having a chain ring that is changing sizes during rotation may be playing with how the bike pedals? I've been riding ovals for a few years now and never felt this before.
> 
> Pics for attention!


5'10". 50 mm stem. 800 mm bar. The cockpit is not what I would call roomy. That said, the steep STA and overall geo make this a super comfortable climber and lots and lots of fun to ride on the flats as well (for me at least).

I have an oval ring on my Honzo. I wouldn't dare try one on the Druid because of the freaky driveline. There's just too much **** already going on down there to add to the craziness. Among other things, I worry about the wear and tear on the idler with a conventional ring, let alone an oval one.

On a different note, I got hold of 2 ShockWizes that I have for a few more days. I am also running a Factory 36 (Fit4). I have my shock DIALLED. Still working on my fork. 185 lbs out of the shower. FWIW, I will post my settings once I get the fork dialled.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

KineticFear said:


> Finally got mine built up after waiting on Fox for a few months...hitting dirt today. A quick note on sizing, I went with a 40mm stem on a large frame. I'm 5'11" on a good day and the sitting length feels a touch short with saddle rails in the middle, may switch to a 50mm after the first ride.
> 
> Question to my fellow riders, has anyone ridden this bike with an oval chainring? The one weird thing I noticed when I jumped on the bike is that the pedaling felt notchy at a certain point in the stroke which has me thinking that because of the high pivot design and the bike lengthening as it goes through the travel. Having a chain ring that is changing sizes during rotation may be playing with how the bike pedals? I've been riding ovals for a few years now and never felt this before.
> 
> ...


I ran an oval ring for one ride. Felt exactly what you're describing. The inchworm feeling was very pronounced. Back to a regular round ring.


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## Kamkam (Feb 25, 2019)

This probably applies to the druid, but advice I got from hugh the engineer behind the craftworks enr which is another high pivot with idler bike.

Yes, you can fit an oval chainring to the ENR. However, it will need to be 'clocked' forward by about 65 degrees to work as intended (due to the angle that chain approaches the front chainring).

This may or may not be possible, depending on what brand crank/chainring you’re thinking of using.

If you can get hold of a RaceFace Cinch crankset, you might be able to get it pretty close by clocking the chainring forwards 3x positions (which would be 67.5 degrees, based on a 16 spline interface from what I can see on the 'net).


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

I'd like to a frame in 27.5, coil compatible with 150mm of travel.


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

Kamkam said:


> This probably applies to the druid, but advice I got from hugh the engineer behind the craftworks enr which is another high pivot with idler bike.
> 
> Yes, you can fit an oval chainring to the ENR. However, it will need to be 'clocked' forward by about 65 degrees to work as intended (due to the angle that chain approaches the front chainring).
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight Kamkam, fortunately I already had a RF Cinch crankset on the bike and rotated my chain 3 positions forward like you mentioned. It definitely worked! Tested it on the stand and it was noticeably better in terms of feeling smooth and not notchy. The same feeling transferred when actually getting on the bike, felt like any other bike with an oval ring. Might try a round to see if there is any noticeable difference in climbing but overall very happy!

A few comments on my first ride. Climbing was average, not sporty feeling but not sluggish. Very impressed with the rearward axle path in terms of rolling over rocks and roots and also felt very comfortable in the seated position. The downhill ability is where the bike shines, it likes to get loose and rowdy! Very impressed on the amount of grip and ability to turn on a dime in flat corners. I look forward to spending some more time on the bike!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I think I have enough ride time now to be able to throw out some random thoughts on the Druid. I am interested to hear whether any other Druid owners agree or disagree with these comments.

I am still dialling in the fork, but I think I have the shock settings nailed. I am also still learning about this bike. Each successive time out results in a faster time, and a bigger grin on my face. Hopefully I can keep that trend going for a while. 

Observations to date:

1. Fast AF on the downs. Fastest bike by far that I have ever ridden. And I sense I am not near its limits yet. I may never find them - I can't go too much faster without seriously risking life and limb. 

2. Very versatile. You can straightline it through the gnarliest of **** at speed without hesitation. This thing is rock solid holding a line. But you can also launch it off of natural trail features effortlessly. It's a rare combo of a ground hugging speed machine, that transforms into a poppy lively bike searching for air when you want it to.

3. It corners like it is on rails. I am shitty when it comes to high speed cornering. This bike makes me feel like a hero. I am not joking. There is something about the geo that allows me to intuitively execute all the technical stuff I have read about cornering techniques, without even thinking. This bike has made me a MUCH better biker. And like I said, I am still learning about it and getting more and more comfortable on it.

4. The centre of gravity is loooooooooow. I have never been able to do effortless endless brake stands on any other bike like I can on this one. This really aids in low speed maneuvering on technical man made features. 

5. It's a visually stunning bike. It screams speed from every angle. I feel very proud to own this bike.

6. The on-bike storage (including the reverse SWAT Box and extra bottle bosses) makes riding packless a breeze. Well thought out extra touches like this can be found front to back (including the super high quality hardware used). 

The downs:

1. It's a decent climber, but this is not a high point for this bike, as far as I am concerned. I can still climb all the tech trails no problem. It's just that I feel a tad more tired at the summit than when I am on certain other bikes. That said, I never feel the urge to fiddle with the climb switch.

2. The front end can be a bit of a beast to lift onto ledges when climbing. It's obviously 100% doable, but I need to exert myself much more on this bike than on other bikes.

3. I noticed brake jack when I did not have the suspension dialled. That seems to have disappeared now that I am in the zone on my suspension settings. 

4. The driveline can be kinda noisy when pedalling under load. I am a little concerned about its life (and the availability of parts down the road).

5. The shock stanchion can be tough to access for cleaning and measuring SAG.

6. I don't really "get" the super wide seat mast, from either a design or engineering perspective. Obviously a first world problem. 

I still need to dial in the fork. Even so, this bike is crazy fun and exciting. It makes me want to bike every waking hour. I have been in the mountains 5 times in the last 3 days, and can't wait to get back, Thoughts of effortless cornering and the highest speeds I have ever attained on a bike, make me want to head back out there right now. 

PS - contrary to some concerns I have read online, there is no risk of catching your nuts in the driveline.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Catching your nuts would take bigger balls than I have.

My boss says the brake jack has made him brake harder and later. He is very fast DH and loves the Druid. 

Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

It's great that the bike is enabling you to go faster. Contrary to what you read on MTBR, fast IS fun.

Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I think I have enough ride time now to be able to throw out some random thoughts on the Druid. I am interested to hear whether any other Druid owners agree or disagree with these comments.
> 
> I am still dialling in the fork, but I think I have the shock settings nailed. I am also still learning about this bike. Each successive time out results in a faster time, and a bigger grin on my face. Hopefully I can keep that trend going for a while.
> 
> ...


I agree with you about how fast this bike is. It is deceptively quick. You don't feel like you're going as fast as you really are. I think it has something to do with the rearward axle path. It doesn't seem to get hung up as much on all the trail chatter and carries speed extremely well instead of getting bogged down in all the little bumps and holes in the trail.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> Catching your nuts would take bigger balls than I have.
> 
> My boss says the brake jack has made him brake harder and later. He is very fast DH and loves the Druid.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935S using Tapatalk


Before I got my suspension dialed, the brake jack was noticeable - typical single pivot brake jack. As a result, I was trying to do what your boss was doing - trying to brake at very opportune times only on relatively buff sections, and straightlining it through the gnar. As I mentioned above, after I got my suspension dialed, the brake jack has all but disappeared for me. I imagine it's still there to some degree but I no longer notice anything.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> I agree with you about how fast this bike is. It is deceptively quick. You don't feel like you're going as fast as you really are. I think it has something to do with the rearward axle path. It doesn't seem to get hung up as much on all the trail chatter and carries speed extremely well instead of getting bogged down in all the little bumps and holes in the trail.


Agreed. I told my GF last night that I need to Strava my next ride to get some objective speed numbers. I know I am going SIGNIFICANTLY faster than I ever have on any other bike, but like you say, the Druid is so solid and holds a line so well, and it's rear wheel does not get hooked or hung up on the square edged stuff, that I unknowingly reach previously unattainable speeds that feel totally manageable.

The only other bike that glided over the **** like this one, was my 2015 Range - also an Owen Pemberton creation. The problem with that bike was that it had a ridiculous amount of AS and pedal kickback due to the absence of an idler.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

What do you guys think about my comment that it can be a beast to yank up the front end? Do you notice that? Maybe it’s a product of how I have my suspension set up. 

Right now, that is the only real criticism I have. And it’s a small one.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> What do you guys think about my comment that it can be a beast to yank up the front end? Do you notice that? Maybe it's a product of how I have my suspension set up.
> 
> Right now, that is the only real criticism I have. And it's a small one.


yeah. I can feel that a little although I haven't taken it on any super techy climbs just yet. overall climbing on this bike is fine, not the best but it gets the job done.

I agree with you. There really isn't much to criticize with this bike. I've owned a ton of bikes over the years and have yet to come upon a "short travel" 29 trail bike that I've enjoyed as much as the Druid. Most of these bikes leave me wanting a bigger bike for the descent and get overwhelmed at speed. This bike punches way above what it should for a 130 mm travel bike.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> PS - contrary to some concerns I have read online, there is no risk of catching your nuts in the driveline.











Glad to see that you've been able to get out and ride some and share your feedback. Looks like a you may have found the perfect bike for where you ride.

Looking forward to getting high (pivot)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I had the Druid out yesterday after days of torrential rain. I am rethinking this bike’s climbing prowess. 

At slightly slower speed, the Druid clawed its way up some reasonably technical, non-fire road climbing with ease. In fact, I had a ton of gas left in the tank when I reached the summit. Not riding for a couple of days during the downpours and being well rested yesterday certainly helped, but I was still very shocked with how well this bike dug in and clawed its way up the slippery, muddy, rooty, rocky sections. I do not recall a single instance of my rear tire breaking loose on the climbs. 

Similar experience on the downs. Rock solid, although I did ratchet back the speed. Not one holy **** moment that I can recall. And this was on Minions, which aren’t the greatest in the slop. 

When I was making my way back to the trailhead, covered head to toe in mud, I wondered whether my Druid may have been happy that it got to experience some West Coast riding conditions, which might have eased its home sickness 

Now only if I can stop the irritating noise coming from my DPX2...

Happily, I never feel the need to reach for the climb switch. I leave both high and low speed compression in the shock wide open 100% of the time.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I had the Druid out yesterday after days of torrential rain. I am rethinking this bike's climbing prowess.
> 
> At slightly slower speed, the Druid clawed its way up some reasonably technical, non-fire road climbing with ease. In fact, I had a ton of gas left in the tank when I reached the summit. Not riding for a couple of days during the downpours and being well rested yesterday certainly helped, but I was still very shocked with how well this bike dug in and clawed its way up the slippery, muddy, rooty, rocky sections. I do not recall a single instance of my rear tire breaking loose on the climbs.
> 
> ...


Stoked every time i hear a ride report!


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

One of the first guys to have a pre-production Druid gushed constantly that it was the best climbing bike he'd ever been on. I assumed it was because he was finally on a bike with a decent STA for his long legs.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Legbacon said:


> One of the first guys to have a pre-production Druid gushed constantly that it was the best climbing bike he'd ever been on. I assumed it was because he was finally on a bike with a decent STA for his long legs.


The STA is likely a big part of it. No need to be shifting around in the saddle anymore, even on the steepest climbs.

I think the way the rear end stays planted and doesn't seem to get caught up on anything when climbing techy sections also plays a big role. No more pedal strikes either now that I have my suspension dialled. All of those things helped me yesterday I think (in addition to feeing rested and strong).

Overall I think what is helping me a lot is what feels to me to be a super low centre of gravity and standover.

But yes - the steep STA and overall geo put me in a really solid and confident riding position. Now that I have my suspension dialled, I have yet to have my tires unintentionally break free on me on the ups, downs, or anything in between.

It's a really great bike. The best I have ever owned. I strongly believe it is making me a significantly stronger rider, especially in the cornering. I feel very fortunate to own one.

PS - apologies to all for the continual posting, which I am sure is getting irritating for some. Probably best to sit back at this time and wait for others to wade in.

One final word though - I sure do hope that the idler pulley does not end up failing at some point. No idea how readily available parts would be if anything needs to be replaced. I was actually wondering about contacting Forbidden and seeing if I can buy that assembly, and a few other unique parts to keep on hand, just in case.

Ok, one more...









The Druid has a few of the boxes checked...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cross post - zero action in the Shocks and Suspension subforum:

https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/squeaky-brand-new-dpx2-1107229.html

Any thoughts? Thanks.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

The squeak from the DPX2 is normal. I wondered the same thing the first time I was on this shock. It seems to dissipate over time or my hearing is on the downward slope. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> The squeak from the DPX2 is normal. I wondered the same thing the first time I was on this shock. It seems to dissipate over time or my hearing is on the downward slope. J


My last 2 DPX2s have had a swooshing noise. This is different. This is a high pitched squeak about 10x a second that is loud and irritating AF. Guys I just rode with could hear it loud and clear and commented on it (in a very bad way) without me saying anything about it. It is definitely not normal.

Do you clean your stanchion? If so, how do you get at it? I can't get in there.

Thanks for the reply.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My last 2 DPX2s have had a swooshing noise. This is different. This is a high pitched squeak about 10x a second that is loud and irritating AF. Guys I just rode with could hear it loud and clear and commented on it (in a very bad way) without me saying anything about it. It is definitely not normal.
> 
> Do you clean your stanchion? If so, how do you get at it? I can't get in there.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


Haven't noticed the squeak noise from my dpx2 but I have wondered about putting a different shock on this bike. Anybody run a coil or the float x2?


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My last 2 DPX2s have had a swooshing noise. This is different. This is a high pitched squeak about 10x a second that is loud and irritating AF. Guys I just rode with could hear it loud and clear and commented on it (in a very bad way) without me saying anything about it. It is definitely not normal.
> 
> Do you clean your stanchion? If so, how do you get at it? I can't get in there.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


I'm fortunate to have a long middle finger developed over it's 58 years of extensive use. I can squirm in there and clean the shock. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I spent the last 3 days riding the Druid. Sunday I spent 5+ hours in the saddle. 

Tonight I rode most of the ride with the shock in the middle position. Incredible. 

I think I have the suspension absolutely dialled on this bike. It’s amazing how the rear end devours anything in its path, with the shock in either the wide open OR the trail position. 

I hate my SRAM drivetrain though. I am going to replace it with a new Shimano offering. I am officially done with everything SRAM.


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## bonzoo (Jul 23, 2013)

What's wrong with the SRAM drivetrain?

Can you check the clearance between your crankarm and the chainstay? Does the gap clear a 10mm Hex? I want to install a Stages Powermeter...


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## Egil Borgne (Jul 8, 2019)

Hi, Does any one know the tire clearance ? I:E dose a nice 2.6" tire fit nicely or will it be thigt!.. 
I'd be superhappy  if someone with a claipper would measure the chainstay inside.


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## megrim (May 23, 2009)

Egil Borgne said:


> Hi, Does any one know the tire clearance ? I:E dose a nice 2.6" tire fit nicely or will it be thigt!..
> I'd be superhappy  if someone with a claipper would measure the chainstay inside.


A 2.5 DHF fits fine. My guess is the 2.6 will be really tight and will probably run on the chain guide with some (a lot?) of wheel flex. I'm assuming you're talking about a proper 2.6, like a maxxis. If you're thinking a 2.6 Specialized Butcher, you should have no problem.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Post #7 may be of some assistance.

Whoops. I didn't see the post above mine when I replied. Sorry megrim.

I don't have callipers or I would measure the clearance.

As an aside, I am currently rocking mine with some season old 2.3 Minions* that are absolutely ripping on that bike. I couldn't ask for more from this bike, and have no urge to move to 2.5s, let alone 2.6s.

*on We Are One Insiders and DT 240 hubs with the 36 tooth star ratchet "upgrade"


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

So, for transparency reasons, I must mention that my company is the new Forbidden importers for NZ.

We received our first demo frame a couple of weeks back and only just finished building her up.

Our first shipment arrives by the end of August but wanted to get my leg over one before stock arrives so it can be shown to prospective customers.

Anyway, that out of the way. Here is my first ride analysis and build spec.

Rider - 178cm/220lb/82cm inseam/75cm saddle height/Intermediate level rider
Frame - Medium
Fork - Pike Ultimate 150mm (85psi) 1 token
Shock - DPX2 as supplied 245 psi
Drive Train - SRAM X01
Brakes - Guide RSC (200mm rotor front, 180 rear)
Wheels - Industry Nine Enduro Carbon System
Tyres - DHF WT EXO 2.5 Front / DHR2 WT EXO 2.4 Rear (max IMHO - though other brands might differ) Tubeless
Post - Bike Yoke Revive 185mm
Saddle - Spank Oozy
Bars - Renthal Fatbar Carbon Limited Edition with Ultra Tacky Grips 
Stem - Industry Nine A35 50mm
Weight - 30lb

First observation - the bike was too small for me. That I assumed when I ordered the bike but it was the only one available.

*Build *- it was very easy to build. Cable routing works well but it should be noted it's easier to route cable without the fork in place. Standard BB and headset make the component choice easy. Also, it must be mentioned that the routing for the seatpost is also well thought out and very simple. It drops through into the cavity near the BB then up through the downtube.

*Carpark test* - Sitting on the bike, it feels like no other bike i've carpark tested. Weird? Different? either way, it's not made for the carpark except for the fact you can test the rearward axle path. Which I did! I rode straight toward an 8 inch curb, lifted the front wheel and then let the rear wheel slam into the curb - wow. I barely felt it. Now that got me excited about the first ride! It also hopped and manualled very easily. Probably thanks to short rear end and trifecta suspension.

*First Ride *- The trail centre where the first ride was conducted is majority Grade 2-3 with some 4. No real 5. So we headed straight for the more difficult options through well-known terrain so that it gave a direct comparison to previous rides/bikes.

Gravel Roads - pedals well and rolls very well once up to speed. It doesn't feel 'snappy' when putting down the power (i.e. cannot feel a direct hard clunk when engaging the cranks), however, this didn't mean it wasn't engaging power - it was, it just didn't feel that way.

Rolly Single Track - The bike just carries speed. Period. The more you jump and pump the more you are rewarded. Hopping trail features came easily, making impossible transitions, possible. The bike was very active and wanted to be ridden hard. Point to note here - this was a small bike for my size, so some of this effect could have been attributed to this. Also, the bike manualed very well through rollers.

Tech Down (grade 4) - Similar effects to the rolly terrain were felt. The bike was playful and carried speed on almost all terrain types. At one stage I rolled with speed through a deep g-out and came launching out of it like a coiled spring. Other bikes would have stalled in the G-out. The main thing I noticed on the stepper stuff is that I had a choice, charge through roots and rough sections or hop into/over them. Either way the bike loved it. Then there is the stability. Steep drops into rough or smooth terrain were met by a very confident feel on the landing. The bike felt planted almost glued to the ground. A couple of landings were less than ideal, squirrely I guess, but the bike stuck. The only letdown on the bike during these sections was the Pike. It either needs more tokens or to be replaced by a Lyrik or 36.

Drop and Jumps - There was one quick jump section that I know well on these trails. They are not big, but they are high speed and if misjudged could cause some serious damage due to overshoot. As the Druid carries a lot of speed this could have been a concern. The druid scrubbed well and jumped low when needed. The fact it stuck its landings so well was a saving grace as my confidence grew on this section. I also hit a couple of 15-foot step-downs, which the druid didn't blink at. It was balanced in the air and stable on the landing.

Climbing and Pedal Assist - I tried the pedal-assist once on a mundane climb and it seemed to hinder the grip and pedaling ability of the druid. In my mind, the druid climbed more efficiently when the suspension was wide open and doing what it was designed to do. On long Gravel climbs, I switched it to the 'locked' position and it worked as you would expect. We attempted one of the more difficult climbs in the park, a 10min grind with some pretty tech sections, including off-camber with roots, multiple root sections, steep to pinch and steep hairpins. All handled with grace. No, it's not an XC whippet. It's not going to race up these climbs like a mountain goat. But it does climb very well. At one stage I stalled as my front wheel got caught. I paused, regained my balance, lifted the front over the object and then put the power down. Other bikes would have lost grip at this stage - not the Druid. I felt the rear suspension lower, engage grip and then propel the bike forward. I was impressed.

*Summary* - This is a first ride report on a bike that was too small for me on trails that were probably too easy for the design of the bike. 
However, sections of the park gave me a brief insight into the capability of this bike and why we have taken it on board as a new brand.

The bike was well balanced and stable on all trails. It felt bottomless, to the point you would think it was a 150mm Enduro bike. It was under-forked in my opinion and deserved a more stout option, especially if you are 80kg or above. The druid pedaled very well. I would not fear the longest gravel climb or a very tech climb on this bike.

The best closing line I could give this bike is as follows:

The Druid is confidence-inspiring. It's stability and balance provide a great platform for a variety of trails, enabling it to carry speed without effort. It's grippy, playful and active - all in one.

I cannot wait to try the Large frame. Fizzing!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Gloworm - agreed on all fronts. The bike is magical. I could not possibly ask for anything more. This is the third creation of Owen Pemberton I have owned. The dude hit it straight out of the park on this one.










PS - just noticed now that you are running your shock at 245 psi. I am 185 lbs out of the shower (so a fair amount lighter than you) and run mine at 195 psi. I run my 36 fork at 72.5 psi with 1 token. Smoooooth AF.


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Gloworm - agreed on all fronts. The bike is magical. I could not possibly ask for anything more. This is the third creation of Owen Pemberton I have owned. The dude hit it straight out of the park on this one.
> 
> PS - just noticed now that you are running your shock at 245 psi. I am 185 lbs out of the shower (so a fair amount lighter than you) and run mine at 195 psi. I run my 36 fork at 72.5 psi with 1 token. Smoooooth AF.


I've got a 36 lined up for when my large demo frame arrives!  I run mine at 85 PSI but also have the MRP Ramp device in mine. With the DPX2 i've noticed body weight in LB + 10% is good. For the 36 85% of the body weight in KG seems good. Using both those guides, your settings are very similar to mine.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just finished day 3 of 5 in Fernie BC. Today I have a brand new appreciation for the Druid - climbing.

I had previously given it a ho-hum rating for climbing. Today I rode some truly technical stuff, including lots and lots of climbing. Much less fire road-like stuff today. The thing is a beast in steep, root infested, ledgy, ultra techy climbs. I had no idea before this but my God, was I overcome with shock and joy. I cleaned pretty much everything, which included stuff I have never been able to do previously.

I only hope nothing weird goes in the drivetrain that I won't be able to replace. Including that idler pulley.

Also, I am concerned about rocks getting jammed between the seat tube and the yoke or whatever you want to call it. If a rock shoots up and lands in this area, as soon as the rear suspension is loaded and then unloaded, there could be significant frame trauma.

Druid owners - let me know what you think about the rock issue. There are lots of reports of frame damage with other bikes occurring in this manner. You will see exactly what I mean if you look at the linkage. Look down along the back of the seat tube area. My mechanic buddy recommended moto foam, which is apparently used on motocrosses to address the same issue.

**** though. We all know this thing is a beast in the downs, punching WAY above its 130mm travel. But damn - it destroys the techy climbs too.

For me this is the unicorn of all bikes I have demoed, rented and owned, which amounts to an absolute shitload.

PS - also not crazy about the lack of activity by Forbidden. Zero activity on their website, for example, which includes the failure to post certain tech docs, which have been "coming soon" since the inception of the website. Also, zero news from them despite being on their mailing list, and virtually zero response to a number of email inquiries. I get that ride time comes first, but all the chirping crickets kinda makes me go hmmm...


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> For me this is the unicorn of all bikes I have demoed, rented and owned, which amounts to an absolute shitload.
> 
> PS - also not crazy about the lack of activity by Forbidden. Zero activity on their website, for example, which includes the failure to post certain tech docs, which have been "coming soon" since the inception of the website. Also, zero news from them despite being on their mailing list, and virtually zero response to a number of email inquiries. I get that ride time comes first, but all the chirping crickets kinda makes me go hmmm...
> 
> View attachment 1267369


So stoked to hear this! Working on getting a friend to unload his sentinel and buy a druid. Work permitting, I am also considering jumping the "k" ship and going with one of these in the spring. Cant go wrong with owning 2 high pivot bikes 

Forbidden's social media seems to be more active. I see daily posts on the gram.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

So...I stumbled across this video from a VCR Island dude who demoed the exact same bike that Travis/Legbacon rode (RIP). Travis worked at Blacks, and Carter was his boss.






I agree with so many of this guy's comments, including that it is a bit difficult to describe how wicked the pedalling is on this bike.

The reason I am posting this though is this...

I am 185 out of the shower. I measured 30% SAG on the DPX2 and came up with around 225. I rode at this PSI. It was good. I then lowered it to 195. That was better. Then, following the lead of this YT reviewer, I tried 175 PSI today. Christ. Even better. A LOT better. No pedal strikes or perceived inefficiency climbing, and OMG - the downs. THE DOWNS!

I am going to try 170 tomorrow.

It just keeps getting better and better. I hope I never wake up from this beautiful dream...


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am 185 out of the shower. I measured 30% SAG on the DPX2 and came up with around 225. I rode at this PSI. It was good. I then lowered it to 195. That was better. Then, following the lead of this YT reviewer, I tried 175 PSI today. Christ. Even better. A LOT better. No pedal strikes or perceived inefficiency climbing, and OMG - the downs. THE DOWNS!
> 
> I am going to try 170 tomorrow.
> 
> It just keeps getting better and better. I hope I never wake up from this beautiful dream...


You mentioned how your 'cornering' technique has improved immensely on this bike in another thread. Is there a particular trail you've noticed this on...and which local trails (AB Rockies) have you really been enjoying/capitalizing on with the Druid (i.e. how has it been on the techy UPs of Razors)?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So...I stumbled across this video from a VCR Island dude who demoed the exact same bike that Travis/Legbacon rode (RIP). Travis worked at Blacks, and Carter was his boss.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Stoked to hear these trail reports and nice to see you so excited about a new bike. Definitely standing out over the others

Tossed my trailbike frame on the classifieds, and eyeing a druid in forest moss to join the other high pivot this fall.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dustin and Jordan of We Are One rockin their personal Druids in Kamloops. These guys don't seem to have any issues getting this bike in the air...






https://m.pinkbike.com/news/not-a-typical-kamloops-video-jeff-kendall-weeds-meets-the-kbra.html


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

Just when I thought this bike couldn’t get any better...
Picked up a super deluxe coil, 450 lb spring. I’m about 205-210 ready to ride
Felt about right. Opened up the LSC all the way and messed with the rebound a bit. 

Short version- it’s better everywhere. 

The ride was a fairly significant climb to some steep and loose gnar. Then a flowy downhill section, finishing with multiple laps at the bike park

Climbing: I was objectively faster on almost every segment of the climb. I’ve done this climb over 100 times and the bike just flew up the trail. The pedaling was very efficient, no need for the climb switch, if anything it made the climbing bumpier and more painful 

Downhill: forget it. Better everywhere. Super composed and supple. It just ate bumps. The small bump sensitivity was much improved. Little bumps were gone, big square edge bumps at speed got eaten up. I carried so much more speed everywhere, especially at the park. I cleared or over overshot jumps that I’ve never been able to clear in the past. Landing jumps and drops was effortless. The bike felt very composed. Just all around amazing

Like mtnbikermike says, it’s a beautiful dream. What a bike..


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> Just when I thought this bike couldn't get any better...
> Picked up a super deluxe coil, 450 lb spring. I'm about 205-210 ready to ride
> Felt about right. Opened up the LSC all the way and messed with the rebound a bit.
> 
> ...


This opens up new possibilities...

It would be incredible if an 11-6 was on the way. Given the small production numbers of the Druid, I assume this will never occur. If it did though, I might be inclined to throw down on one, as well as on an ACS3.

I just contacted Push and made the inquiry. I highly doubt it but you never know. I clothed my Druid in a custom ("Tailored") Ride Wrap kit, so obviously they thought the numbers justified the investment at their end. I never would have thought there would be a custom Ride Wrap kit either. Fingers crossed...


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This opens up new possibilities...
> 
> It would be incredible if an 11-6 was on the way. Given the small production numbers of the Druid, I assume this will never occur. If it did though, I might be inclined to throw down on one, as well as on an ACS3.


Yup. An 11-6 would be pretty sweet. I've got the acs3 in a Fox 36 on this bike. I may send the super deluxe to avalanche and have them work their magic.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> Yup. An 11-6 would be pretty sweet. I've got the acs3 in a Fox 36 on this bike. I may send the super deluxe to avalanche and have them work their magic.


Wow. Lots of ACS3 action going on with this bike. From post #71 above - "[The ACS3] plays nice with the DPX2. Curiously, the rear end on this bike seems to outperform the front when the speed ramps up." That one is in a Pike though.

I am off to Fernie again tomorrow. Can't wait. This bike makes me want to ride 24/7.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

You may be surprised with Push, this is a fairly common shock size and they've made shocks for super boutique (Zerode Taniwha) bikes before. As to the ride wrap kit, I thought the black bike was raw carbon, so little to no finish to worry about damaging?


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Anyone heard when the XL stuff is going to be available? I mailed Forbidden last weekend and never received an answer back. Also asked if a customer is able to purchase and extra idler just in case.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> Anyone heard when the XL stuff is going to be available? I mailed Forbidden last weekend and never received an answer back. Also asked if a customer is able to purchase and extra idler just in case.


Just got an email today from Forbidden. Looks like no XLs this production run:

Our next shipment of Druids has arrived!

If you've been waiting to get your hands on some #highpivotwitchcraft, now's the time! *All 3 sizes are back in stock*, but as usual, size Large frames will be in high demand - so make your move!

For our American friends, make sure to contact Fanatik Bike Co to place your order.

And in Canada and the UK, visit our website now to order your Druid with free shipping!​


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

KineticFear said:


> Question to my fellow riders, has anyone ridden this bike with an oval chainring? The one weird thing I noticed when I jumped on the bike is that the pedaling felt notchy at a certain point in the stroke which has me thinking that because of the high pivot design and the bike lengthening as it goes through the travel. Having a chain ring that is changing sizes during rotation may be playing with how the bike pedals? I've been riding ovals for a few years now and never felt this before.





mtnbkrmike said:


> I have an oval ring on my Honzo. I wouldn't dare try one on the Druid because of the freaky driveline. There's just too much **** already going on down there to add to the craziness. Among other things, I worry about the wear and tear on the idler with a conventional ring, let alone an oval one.





monkeyboyjong said:


> I ran an oval ring for one ride. Felt exactly what you're describing. The inchworm feeling was very pronounced. Back to a regular round ring.





Kamkam said:


> This probably applies to the druid, but advice I got from hugh the engineer behind the craftworks enr which is another high pivot with idler bike.
> 
> Yes, you can fit an oval chainring to the ENR. However, it will need to be 'clocked' forward by about 65 degrees to work as intended (due to the angle that chain approaches the front chainring).
> 
> ...





KineticFear said:


> Thanks for the insight Kamkam, fortunately I already had a RF Cinch crankset on the bike and rotated my chain 3 positions forward like you mentioned. It definitely worked! Tested it on the stand and it was noticeably better in terms of feeling smooth and not notchy. The same feeling transferred when actually getting on the bike, felt like any other bike with an oval ring. Might try a round to see if there is any noticeable difference in climbing but overall very happy!


RE: Oval Chainring

If you clock it 65°, doesn't that mess with the advantages of going Oval in the first place? (Smooth out power output, make it slightly easier to put down the power, etc.,)


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

No XL is a deal breaker, too bad.


----------



## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

I bought a used Druid a few months ago right before a bike trip to the PNW. This was the first mistake, as it was built right before I left. I was really excited for this bike, but in the end I didn't overly like it. I did like the sizing and geometry. I sold it shortly after the trip after riding it on some of my local trails. I thought it pedaled okay but wasn't overly playful for my style. I didn't recognize the magic. I even tried different shocks. I did have some issues with my components, which I recognized could contribute to the overall ride of the bike.

Since then, I have been looking high and low for my aggressive trail/AM bike. However, I am particular with respect to bike sizing. I have watched tons of videos. I kept coming back to the Druid. The reviews were not matching my experience. I started reaching to various shops that carried the Druid amongst other high end bikes for their opinion. I was also testing riding other bikes.

In the end, I bought another Druid which arrived last week. It rides completely different than the first one. It matches the reviews. The bike is fun and playful. It is a downhiller's trail bike. It rides above its travel, you start doing stupid things with bike because of what it can handle. I am still fine tuning it but so glad that I gave it a second go!


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Dude! said:


> View attachment 1274211


That's a good looking rig for sure. Congrats!


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Too bad there are no XLs.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Any ideas of why you had such a bad experience with the first bike? You think because it was used? Could it have been an early production frame?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

depeche4 said:


> Any ideas of why you had such a bad experience with the first bike? You think because it was used? Could it have been an early production frame?


My educated guess was the original DPX2 shock wasn't working properly followed by installing Float X2 that probably wasn't dialed in correctly or just the wrong shock. The original DPX2 felt dead, and I had the rebound wide open. I kind of know the previous owner, I trust him - we have chatted and ironically sold bike stuff to each other more than once. He had a similar experience. Murphy's Law - if the shock is bad but not sure how the frame is suppose to ride then its hard to evaluate properly. There are mixed reviews on this bike. Hence my reviews were similar to some of the more negative online reviews so I didn't think I was too far off base. Then I start evaluating all of the reviews, and the island bike review got me thinking more about this. He said it pedals similar to the SB130. NSMB also stated it pedals very well. How could this be?

The original it felt very hard to get the bike off the ground with the DPX2. With the Float X2, this was better. However never noticed the magic and the Float X2 doesn't pedal as well, unless locked out. I hate flipping knobs.

The current bike pedals well and I am using more rebound damping and it eats up the rough stuff. I could attack the trail with confidence today taking any line that I wanted (within reason) and it was still playful.

The other bike felt very heavy and zapped my energy. This one pedals much better. Pedaling on this bike is unique, it pedals very well in certain scenarios and other times it pedals well, but there isn't a sense of snappiness. I am still figuring this out. It shifts more seamlessly and that has caused me to over shift to notice the shift. Where most bikes you hear and feel the engagement of the next gear, this is less noticeable, which is probably a good thing.

I noticed the chainstay growth more on the previous one when doing certain things, not so much on this one.

I think it was the shock - I even looked up both tunes and the only difference between the shock are years 2019 versus 2020 and the 2020 doesn't have a volume spacer.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks for that. So you have no volume spacer in your rear shock now? If you do not mind me asking what do you weigh?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> I bought a used Druid a few months ago right before a bike trip to the PNW. This was the first mistake, as it was built right before I left. I was really excited for this bike, but in the end I didn't overly like it. I did like the sizing and geometry. I sold it shortly after the trip after riding it on some of my local trails. I thought it pedaled okay but wasn't overly playful for my style. I didn't recognize the magic. I even tried different shocks. I did have some issues with my components, which I recognized could contribute to the overall ride of the bike.
> 
> Since then, I have been looking high and low for my aggressive trail/AM bike. However, I am particular with respect to bike sizing. I have watched tons of videos. I kept coming back to the Druid. The reviews were not matching my experience. I started reaching to various shops that carried the Druid amongst other high end bikes for their opinion. I was also testing riding other bikes.
> 
> In the end, I bought another Druid which arrived last week. It rides completely different than the first one. It matches the reviews. The bike is fun and playful. It is a downhiller's trail bike. It rides above its travel, you start doing stupid things with bike because of what it can handle. I am still fine tuning it but so glad that I gave it a second go!


AWESOME! And yeah - your Druid looks incredible.

I could never understand why your experience differed so much from mine. Glad you got things sorted. Now you can sit back and watch the magic unfold.

Every time out with my Druid, I love it more and more. The thing never stops blowing my mind. It does everything well. From steezin through the flowy, bermy, new school stuff, to straight lining down old school jank. What I love best though is how it is so incredibly adept as my everyday go-to trail bike. No matter what the terrain, it's a total rush riding it.

I just got back from yet another Fernie weekend getaway. Once again, I was reminded just how crazy good this bike is. If your experience is anything like mine, everything will keep getting better and better, every time out.

One final thing though...have you experienced the cornering bliss yet? This thing is so dialled, it's nuts. I have never been able to corner like this on any other bike. Not even close.

PS - still awaiting word from Push as to whether an 11-6 is in the cards for the Druid...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Blatant said:


> Too bad there are no XLs.


Agreed. It's odd. Word was that this production run was supposed to include XLs. I don't know what went sideways on that.


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

I saw XLs aren’t slated to be available until November. A buddy is testing for Forbidden the one and only (as far as I know) XL sample frame, the one posted on Vital’s BOTD.

He’s absolutely loving it...but the dude is seriously one of Canada’s best riders and especially rips it on a hard tail.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

robnow said:


> I saw XLs aren't slated to be available until November. A buddy is testing for Forbidden the one and only (as far as I know) XL sample frame, the one posted on Vital's BOTD.
> 
> He's absolutely loving it...but the dude is seriously one of Canada's best riders and especially rips it on a hard tail.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for correcting that.

I think this is the link for the Vital BOTD article you were referring to:

https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/djharder81,21657/setup,39482

Interested in knowing who that is who is testing the XL...

I see now that I did not respond to your earlier post. Sorry about that.

In response, I have not had the Druid on Razor's yet. That will definitely come soon, although I am the first to admit that keeping the flow going on certain sections of that trail can be a real challenge for me.

I have been riding lots after work - so the usual quick blast places, including West Bragg. Also some riding at CNC, various stuff off Moose/Husky Fire Road, the Banff area including Topp Notch, and many weekends and long/extended weekends at Fernie (including this weekend that just ended).

Like I said above, while the Druid can handle anything I throw at it, it has also been a blast as a daily go-to trail bike. For example, as buff as it may be, blasting a lap or two on Merlin on the Druid after a shitty day of work, is the perfect way to cleanse my brain of the day's toxicity (and yeah, I know, I also ride those trails on my hardtail, but the Druid really is a blast, no matter how gnarly or sedate the terrain).


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## rmac (Oct 26, 2004)

Dude! said:


> My educated guess was the original DPX2 shock wasn't working properly followed by installing Float X2 that probably wasn't dialed in correctly or just the wrong shock. The original DPX2 felt dead, and I had the rebound wide open. I kind of know the previous owner, I trust him - we have chatted and ironically sold bike stuff to each other more than once. He had a similar experience. Murphy's Law - if the shock is bad but not sure how the frame is suppose to ride then its hard to evaluate properly. There are mixed reviews on this bike. Hence my reviews were similar to some of the more negative online reviews so I didn't think I was too far off base. Then I start evaluating all of the reviews, and the island bike review got me thinking more about this. He said it pedals similar to the SB130. NSMB also stated it pedals very well. How could this be?
> 
> The original it felt very hard to get the bike off the ground with the DPX2. With the Float X2, this was better. However never noticed the magic and the Float X2 doesn't pedal as well, unless locked out. I hate flipping knobs.
> 
> ...


I have been lazily following this thread and had wondered a couple of times if Dude! was thinking of one of these bikes. I am a 'follower' of your bike choices but haven't seen as much bike swapping from you in the recent past (or at least not recorded on mtbr). I would appreciate hearing some comparisons to previous bikes if you can spare the time and effort. Any and all further reviews on this bike would be appreciated too.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

They just responded to my email, Nov is when they figure they are in stock, and they hope to have the idler parts available by that time too.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

rpearce1475 said:


> You may be surprised with Push, this is a fairly common shock size and they've made shocks for super boutique (Zerode Taniwha) bikes before. As to the ride wrap kit, I thought the black bike was raw carbon, so little to no finish to worry about damaging?


I sent an email to push as well about the 11-6 fit. They said they're trying to get a hold of Druid frame for testing and that we can expect an 11-6 fitment in the future?

Got a few more rides under my belt with the super deluxe coil. It continues to impress. The climbing feels more supportive and efficient despite the extra weight. It is definitely faster going up.

The descents are so good. I find myself pedaling into gnarly **** and just letting the bike rip where I used to ride the brakes. Lots of support for pushing into berms and jump faces. It is just an amazing bike

I'd be curious to check out an xl frame but the large feels pretty good. I'm 6-1 or so on a good day and run a large frame with a 50 mm stem and 800 bars. I think this bike rides a little bigger then the numbers suggest.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

rmac said:


> I have been lazily following this thread and had wondered a couple of times if Dude! was thinking of one of these bikes. I am a 'follower' of your bike choices but haven't seen as much bike swapping from you in the recent past (or at least not recorded on mtbr). I would appreciate hearing some comparisons to previous bikes if you can spare the time and effort. Any and all further reviews on this bike would be appreciated too.


Haha - its a continuous evolution. I dove into the 29er bikes last year with the Evil Offering. The Offering is a cool bike, but I never got along with the longer geometry. I gave it a solid 7-8 months try - it was my sole bike. My riding suffered - not completely - there are positives - jumping and it was playful. I lost my speed/confidence in corners and technical terrain. Even though I struggle with the longer geometry, I still like the more moderate geometry over short geometry.

I was ready to give up on the bigger wheels and switch back to 27.5 as new bikes are coming out with the newer geometry. I thought maybe smaller wheels are better for me and my riding style and height. I had the 29er parts (wheels and forks) so I wanted to make sure I was done with 29er before switching back - hence a second try on the Druid.

Riding the Druid yesterday was the first time that I felt comfortable and started letting the bike go and having fun!!! It put a big smile on my face! I have gotten this from the Ibis Ripley V4, which super fun bike and gets you into trouble. The Druid lets you get into trouble and can handle it. The Ripley V4 and the Druid are both fun bikes for me as their geometry is moderate not uber long.

Mediumg Evil Offering: positives pedals well, playful, confidence in jumps : negatives seatpost is long could only fit a 140mm dropper, bike was too big for me
Small Evil Offering: The small looses a lot of the playfulness that I liked in the medium, it was too small and cramped for me - it didn't feel as good as the medium, even the medium was too long. Something about the size changes the ride characteristics with respect to suspension - can't explain why this
Kona Process - felt too short and the short chainstays were not for me. It is a cool bike but is unique - I didn't comfortable on the bike and that throw off my confidence. The extra travel was fun.

I almost purchased the Megatower. It felt comfortable. However, didn't want that much travel for most of my rides. Still it felt good....

The Druid feels very comfortable - this is consistent in most reports.

That's about it - still need to ride it more before I can say much more.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> I sent an email to push as well about the 11-6 fit. They said they're trying to get a hold of Druid frame for testing and that we can expect an 11-6 fitment in the future?


I will be throwing down on an 11-6 the minute it comes out. The DPX2 is absolutely incredible but I do not mind spending money on this bike, given how good it is. If nothing else, I will treat it as a not so inexpensive experiment.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I will be throwing down on an 11-6 the minute it comes out. The DPX2 is absolutely incredible but I do not mind spending money on this bike, given how good it is. If nothing else, I will treat it as a not so inexpensive experiment.


Pretty sure I will too. I've got an 11-6 on my other bike, an sbg transition patrol and it's gathering dust. I think the tranny is goin up for sale soon minus the 11-6...

You likely won't even need a climb mode. You could do a setting for dh and a flow dh for smoother trails and pump and jump the living **** out of it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> Pretty sure I will too. I've got an 11-6 on my other bike, an sbg transition patrol and it's gathering dust. I think the tranny is goin up for sale soon minus the 11-6...
> 
> You likely won't even need a climb mode. You could do a setting for dh and a flow dh for smoother trails and pump and jump the living **** out of it.


Awesome. Thanks.

I'm going to shoot you a PM for further info if you don't mind.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Monkeyboyjong -- I got this from PUSH today:

"Thank you for the email Michael,

We are currently working on getting a Druid in for testing. We hope to have a fitment available for that bike in the next couple of months.

Thank you, and let me know if you have any questions.

PUSH Sales
PUSH Industries
1520 Taurus Ct. 
Loveland, CO 80537
(970) 278-1110
www.pushindustries.com
www.instagram.com/pushindustries
www.facebook.com/pushindustries"

WOOHOO!!!

Just in time for Moab!!!


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Monkeyboyjong -- I got this from PUSH today:
> 
> "Thank you for the email Michael,
> 
> ...


Nice. This can't happen soon enough


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## Gloworm Manufacture (Nov 29, 2011)

*Ext....*



monkeyboyjong said:


> Nice. This can't happen soon enough


I've just fitted the EXT Storia V3. Not ridden it yet but will report back after Friday.......Fits nicely and all reports are that it performs as well as the 11-6.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> I've just fitted the EXT Storia V3. Not ridden it yet but will report back after Friday.......Fits nicely and all reports are that it performs as well as the 11-6.


I will be watching for your report.

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/review-ext-storia-v3-shock.html

Highly disappointed that PB did not do a head to head comparison with the 11-6, and chose instead to compare it to a stock, out of the box, non custom tuned Marz. Ridiculous.


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## rmac (Oct 26, 2004)

Dude! said:


> That's about it - still need to ride it more before I can say much more.


:thumbsup:


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Monkeyboyjong -- I got this from PUSH today:
> 
> "Thank you for the email Michael,
> 
> ...


Cool! I have used the 11-6 in the past on different bikes. My preference tends toward air shocks, but I can see the 11-6 working very well for this bike!


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

very interested in this frame, and dreaming about a build with coil shock (maybe Ext) and a Trust Performanc fork


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> Pretty sure I will too. I've got an 11-6 on my other bike, an sbg transition patrol and it's gathering dust. I think the tranny is goin up for sale soon minus the 11-6...
> 
> You likely won't even need a climb mode. You could do a setting for dh and a flow dh for smoother trails and pump and jump the living **** out of it.


For me, the DPX2 is absolutely killing it. But if I can up the fun factor even further, why not?

If I go this route, I am thinking that between the EXT Storia and the 11-6, the 11-6 is the much safer route. And I am also really liking the suggestion made above by monkeyboyjong re the DH and flow DH circuits. Makes perfect sense for the terrain I am riding.

I am stoked even more now than I already was.

All that said, does anyone know whether there is a CDN authorized dealer for the EXT Storia (like Suspensionwerx for the 11-6)? May as well check out all options while I am awaiting the release of the 11-6.

On a different note, I wish my daughter was about 2 years more advanced than she is. I would buy her a small Druid in a heart beat. As it is, she is riding a 2015 Process 134 that is also dialled AF so it's not too bad for her. Nonetheless, feeling what I feel riding that Druid, I want her to feel it too. It's helped me really progress my cornering game. I bet it would help her materially progress at almost everything. Still a year or two away though.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Well, I got my build done but learned some interesting lessons along the way.

I could not clock my oval / elliptical chainring due to how the SRAM chainrings are keyed to the 3 bolt pattern. I ended up punting to a round chainring.

The roughly ~65° clocking is due to how the chain approaches the chainring from the top as opposed to the back.

In any event, have some things to do / double-check before heading out to ride it - sag is a pain to check... might do a ghetto sag meter next to the main pivot.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> Well, I got my build done but learned some interesting lessons along the way.
> 
> I could not clock my oval / elliptical chainring due to how the SRAM chainrings are keyed to the 3 bolt pattern. I ended up punting to a round chainring.
> 
> ...


180 out of the shower. 175 psi for the DPX2. Seems awesome to me.

When I initially measured sag, 30% was at 225. Either I was off or 30% is not optimum because 175 > 225 x1000. Good luck.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I ended up using body weight for my PSI and it was close-ish to 19mm on the O-Ring.

First Ride: Druid just rips - still getting used to it... more to come as we get better acquainted but it's surprising how efficiently this thing pedals.

Threw the ShockWiz on tonight and will work on dialing it in these next few weeks.

Bike Check on Vital:

https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/ChainWhip,896/setup,39642


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> I ended up using body weight for my PSI and it was close-ish to 19mm on the O-Ring.
> 
> First Ride: Druid just rips - still getting used to it... more to come as we get better acquainted but it's surprising how efficiently this thing pedals.
> 
> ...


Next level build.

Very much looking forward to some further reporting.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Man, I can't believe that I didn't think this bike pedal well. It pedals amazingly well. And crazy technical climbing - wow. This is the true definition of traction without getting bounced around. Many people discuss bikes and how they can craw up a technical climb, this is the first bike that truly defines this. It doesn't have the snappiness/light feel of a DW link, you need to overlook this but it motors very well just stay on the pedals. On this one techincal climb today with big step ups and roots - nearly made it and I am the only idiot ever tries. I was caught off guard of how it was handling it, if I knew I would have made it. Even on my less technical trails, because I am not getting bounced, it moves a long very smoothly. When you get to the top of climb and your hammer a bit more because of fatigue, the DW link edges you on a bit, but if you ignore the feel you are actually very similar and maybe better on the Druid because you are not getting bounced.

It jumps well with features and the bike gives you confidence. Even though I don't feel any harsh bottom outs, its not as bottomless in feel. This is a not negative, it just doesn't have the feeling.

Trying different stems at the moment.

It's a badass bike!!!


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## bigdrunk (Feb 21, 2004)

Wow, that is nice.



cheezwhip said:


> I ended up using body weight for my PSI and it was close-ish to 19mm on the O-Ring.
> 
> First Ride: Druid just rips - still getting used to it... more to come as we get better acquainted but it's surprising how efficiently this thing pedals.
> 
> ...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Here's an interesting discussion by the guys at Blister, who I have come to trust over the years for a lot of my ski-related purchases. The discussion about the Druid starts at 19:14.

https://blisterreview.com/featured/promising-or-pointless-5-weird-new-bike-products-ep-6

Druid owners - what do you think about these comments?


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

Any Druid owners running as 140 in the front? Debating on this bike and wondering if it’s just as fun as a 140, instead of 150 like all these reviews been running?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Smackem said:


> Any Druid owners running as 140 in the front? Debating on this bike and wondering if it's just as fun as a 140, instead of 150 like all these reviews been running?


Watch the video at post #143. Start at 12:25. He gets into the 140 option at 12:50.

I am running a 150 36 and love it, but I suspect I would also love running a 140 on it as well.


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## digev (Mar 7, 2019)




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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Frames,7/Forbidden/Druid,27121#product-reviews/3648


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Frames,7/Forbidden/Druid,27121#product-reviews/3648


Holy crap. Outstanding. Thanks for posting.

I hope you don't mind but I cited that link in a few other threads, including this one (see post #14):

https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/whats-ideal-sea-sky-29er-bcs-steep-climbs-descents-1115261.html

Pretty much sums up my experience so far. Except I do not notice any increased driveline drag. Zero. It's louder though than a non-HSP driveline.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I took off the Idler and it's not the smoothest... I'm looking into replacing the bearing.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

cheezwhip said:


> I took off the Idler and it's not the smoothest... I'm looking into replacing the bearing.


Does Forbidden have all their tech info like bearing type come with the frame or listed on their site?


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

depeche4 said:


> Does Forbidden have all their tech info like bearing type come with the frame or listed on their site?


They will be publishing a PDF shortly with all the exploded views / torque values on their website.

The bearing in the top Idler is an Enduro 6902 LLB ABEC 5 bearing.

I'm already looking forward to a 150-160mm Forbidden bike


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

PDF of Exploded View and Torque Values:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/Druid_Exploded_View_V1.1.pdf?10139

Found at the bottom of this page:

https://www.forbiddenbike.com/pages/tech


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Just a note for those servicing their suspension. The main pivot has a nut (24mm) on one end that is covered by the round locking cover. Removal of this cover exposes this nut. The opposite side of the pivot is just a round flange. Therefore, in order to tighten this nut to spec you have to hold the shaft with a 10mm allen while tighening. This eliminates using a socket on your torque wrench as you can not access the 10mm on the inside of the nut shaft to hold the shaft. You need a 24mm crows foot wrench head that matches your torque wrenche's drive ie 3/8, 1/2"....
Another thing to note is when replacing the lock nut cover. The nut has to be clocked so that the cover just slides on, don't force it (Don't ask me how I know). You can just tighten/loosen the nut minimally to make this happen. Cheers J


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Thx @YogiKudo - It's not very straightforward but the exploded diagram helps a little.

Here's some pics that Forbidden sent me of that area:

Pic #1: use a plastic scraper to work the cover off if needed

Pic #2: 24mm Nut (16-20Nm)

High Main Pivot / 24mm cover (8Nm)


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

BTW, I was able to get the 24mm nut on and off without messing too much with the 10mm Allen. I just held the axle in place with my hand on the drive-side to keep it from turning.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Assuming you are still running the DPX2, what is your weight and at what PSI are you running your shock? I am 182 lbs out of the shower and (I assume) around 200 riding weight. I have tried everything from 175 to 225 PSI. I have to say that it all felt good, and not all that much different - certainly not as much as I would have expected. 

While Forbidden has finally posted its Exploded View diagram, it has yet to post its Set Up document. The web site has said “coming soon” since it came into existence. Out of curiosity I have been checking often, hoping that Forbidden will let us know what it views as the ideal PSI (assuming the “Set Up” document addresses this). 

I rode my Druid for the first time in a while after having ridden my Honzo exclusively. 175 PSI, which is where I had finally arrived at based on Island Bike Life’s video (I posted the link above), felt awfully soft so I increased it to 195 psi for the ride. After riding the Honzo for weeks, 195 felt like a magic carpet ride.

Anyway, curious where you have landed on PSI (and the rest of your shock settings). 

FWIW the ShockWiz I had directed me to 195 psi as the optimum pressure.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I'm 220lbs riding weight and ShockWiz had my optimal PSI set to 221psi but I'm running it at 210psi at the moment. Still experimenting to be honest...

The reviewer on Vital ran his at 20/24% sag (ergo higher PSI to body weight ratio)

Seems like there's a wide range that's acceptable for sag (and hence PSI) on this bike:










Current DPX2 Settings:
Rebound: 5 clicks from fully closed
Compression: 9 clicks from fully closed


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> ...The reviewer on Vital ran his at 20/24% sag (ergo higher PSI to body weight ratio)
> 
> Seems like there's a wide range that's acceptable for sag (and hence PSI) on this bike...


I saw that. There is also an exchange on this point in the questions section below the VitalMTB article.

This is the first bike I have NOT run at 20-24% SAG. My 2015 Range, which AFAIK was one of Owen Pemberton's first major foray's into a rearward axle path and HUGE AS, got hung up in the chunk badly at anything higher than 25% SAG.

Agreed though - the Druid seems to ride great in a wide range of PSI settings. One of many really awesome aspects about this bike. While on some of my past bikes I searched for the perfect setting among varying levels of shittiness, it seems to generally be varying levels of nothing but goodness with this bike as I fiddle with the settings (if that makes sense).

Edit: I just saw the rest of your shock settings. I am at 4 clicks from fully open on rebound, but fully open on LSC.

On a different point, based on your earlier posts, I guess need to consider doing some surgery one the idler. To be 100% candid, I don't notice any increased driveline resistance. Only increased driveline noise.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I didn't think so on the Idler either until I pulled it to work on the main pivot. I rotated it with my hand (had removed it off the bike) and it didn't seem very smooth - I'll try rotating it without the chain and installed on the bike and see if there's any drag.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

I have settled on my body weight which is 185 naked. This is also what Forbidden recommends. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> I have settled on my body weight which is 185 naked. This is also what Forbidden recommends. J


Interesting. Thanks YK.

Where did you get that info from? Did you email them and ask them that? I have contacted them a few times about certain things and got nothing but crickets in return.

Also, I don't really understand. What if I ride packless one day, and then go with a fully loaded pack the next day, including 3 litres of water? Surely the optimal PSI would change, would it not? What exactly did Forbidden recommend?


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Just serviced the rear shock and there is a .2 volume spacer stock. J


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

Anyone ever read the technical docs and read the 557.1 max fork length? I know the bike is supposed to be 150 max travel, but the 557.1 axel to crown length is literally fox 36. Would it matter if I nudge above that with literally any other 150 fork?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Smackem said:


> Anyone ever read the technical docs and read the 557.1 max fork length? I know the bike is supposed to be 150 max travel, but the 557.1 axel to crown length is literally fox 36. Would it matter if I nudge above that with literally any other 150 fork?


Yah, I'm doing a Pike Ultimate 150 on my build, and it's a few mm too long. Hopefully, there will be an update to the spec shortly.


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

mtnbkrmike won't be the only Forbidden rider in town, as of last week a buddy is now carrying them in one of the local shops...and I think I've been convinced to wait on an XL.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I


robnow said:


> mtnbkrmike won't be the only Forbidden rider in town, as of last week a buddy is now carrying them in one of the local shops...and I think I've been convinced to wait on an XL.


Interesting. I know it's not Bow. I just called Calgary Cycle and it's not them either. Who oh who could it be?

Great though if someone local has picked them up. It's a great bike for everything from West Bragg and up. People see the HSP and jump to the conclusion it's something way beyond a trail bike. I guess it is a bit but I would say that it's the funnest FS bike I have ever owned for the local terrain (as well as for Fernie, Golden and Revy). I need to grab spare parts though. I am super paranoid I could be left high and dry if something unique goes sideways on it.

EDIT: Just checked Forbidden's website. The Inside Line Mountain Bike Service. To be honest, I have never heard of them. Good for them though. Looks like they have some ties with MMTBS. It's a perfect bike for Moose. I can attest to the fact that it did not disappoint climbing Family Guy, descending SHAFT, then climbing the Husky fire road and descending Loamzilla.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

robnow said:


> mtnbkrmike won't be the only Forbidden rider in town, as of last week a buddy is now carrying them in one of the local shops...and I think I've been convinced to wait on an XL.


I got excited when I read this post, before stalking your profile and seeing you were from Canada. I'm really interested in the Druid, but I would be very hesitant to plunk down without a demo. I've never been on a high pivot bike and worry that I might miss some poppiness that comes with similarly capable slightly longer travel bikes like the Ripmo. Or I might not at all. It's just hard to know without riding it and so plunking down over 5k for a reasonable build at Fanatik is probably unlikely.

I'd need an XL anyway, though, so I can afford to wait and hope for some sort of expansion of distribution/demo tour in the next year or two.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

My E13 Upper Idler Pulley was not spinning smoothly and to Forbidden's credit, there is a replacement en route. I have a trip planned this week though and needed to get this resolved ASAP so I got another 6902 bearing and swapped it out. Happy to say it is spinning much better with the new bearing.


by ChainWhip, on Flickr


by ChainWhip, on Flickr


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

I've been extremely interested in this bike...No where to demo so it would be buying blind. Just curious for those who own one...on the sitting position. Does it feel like you're "IN" the bike or "on top" of the bike?

2 bikes i can think of is Trek Remedy feels like you're on top of the bike and the Pivot Mach 5.5 feels like you're IN the bike.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

Does anyone know if there are plans for build kits rather than just frame only in the future? I thought I remember reading that at one point, but now I'm not sure where. Going through Fanatik's website, it looks like the Druid is ~500 more than the Ibis Ripmo when similarly equipped despite having basically the same frame only price.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

MarcusBrody said:


> Does anyone know if there are plans for build kits rather than just frame only in the future? I thought I remember reading that at one point, but now I'm not sure where. Going through Fanatik's website, it looks like the Druid is ~500 more than the Druid when similarly equipped despite having basically the same frame only price.


I have seen countless comments in reviews and elsewhere that build kits would be offered at some point by Forbidden. Who knows though. Not sure if or when. I would call Forbidden directly and ask.

I have read your last sentence numerous times and must confess that I don't understand what you are saying. I am probably just tired...


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> I've been extremely interested in this bike...No where to demo so it would be buying blind. Just curious for those who own one...on the sitting position. Does it feel like you're "IN" the bike or "on top" of the bike?
> 
> 2 bikes i can think of is Trek Remedy feels like you're on top of the bike and the Pivot Mach 5.5 feels like you're IN the bike.


I'm coming off of Evil bikes and those are really low slung in terms of frame weight distribution - and yeah, you're really "in" the bike with the Evils (probably more so than any other brand I've ridden).

With the Druid (even though it's a high pivot), it feels similar to the Evils in that the CoG is relatively low. It's very agile side-to-side because of this.


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

Druid was initially reported as being $2999. Ended up being $3099. If you “add a shock” it bumps up the price $400 more. So maybe that’s the $500?

Fanatik is kinda **** for distribution. Only 2 black frames in stock for a month now.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have read your last sentence numerous times and must confess that I don't understand what you are saying. I am probably just tired...


Nope, definitely my fault. I wrote Druid twice when I meant to write Ripmo the second time. I used Fanatik bikes website to build the Druid up with a similar spec to the Ripmo's XT build.

I might call and ask at some point, but until they have XL frames, it's a moot point for me.

The extra hundred on the frame is part of it, but if you choose the DPX2 rather than the X2, it's not any extra for the shock.


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

I read a bit of a blurb on vitalmtb and Pinkbike, owners are reporting that on a 10 tooth cog the chain drags on the seatstay. Anyone confirm this, and what cog does it stop dragging?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Smackem said:


> I read a bit of a blurb on vitalmtb and Pinkbike, owners are reporting that on a 10 tooth cog the chain drags on the seatstay. Anyone confirm this, and what cog does it stop dragging?


I have to think this is complete bullshit.

Did they post pics?

That said, I will try to post pics of the clearance later this evening. Maybe I am wrong but I would be shocked if I am. That said, I am rarely in the 10 tooth cog.

I'm running an XO Eagle/Next R drivetrain with a 30 tooth ring.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

My chain drags in the 10 tooth on the seat stay protector on the stand. Didn't notice it on the bike though. Running an E 13 casette with a 9 tooth small cog would not work. J


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

First couple of rides done:
- Climbing is ridiculously efficient. The BB is lower than what I'm used to (Trek Slash and Ibis Ripmo), but not so low that it was an issue. There was no bob while climbing. At all. 
- Noise level is quite low. I'm running XT 12 speed, and the chain is wearing down the upper pulley already, so it's getting quieter. Still, I only hear it under heavy loads. 
- Jumping is nice on this bike. I cased a few times and barely noticed. Lowering the bar height helped make the bike more balanced.
- The handling is quick without being twitchy. Again, the lower bar height helped make it feel balanced.

It still needs a few tweaks to the setup, but I'm pretty happy so far.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> My chain drags in the 10 tooth on the seat stay protector on the stand. Didn't notice it on the bike though. Running an E 13 casette with a 9 tooth small cog would not work. J


I checked mine tonight, while preping it for tomorrow's ride. I have zero driveline rub in any cog. Again, XO Eagle and a 30 tooth RaceFace Next R crank.



pinkrobe said:


> First couple of rides done:
> - Climbing is ridiculously efficient. The BB is lower than what I'm used to (Trek Slash and Ibis Ripmo), but not so low that it was an issue. There was no bob while climbing. At all.
> - Noise level is quite low. I'm running XT 12 speed, and the chain is wearing down the upper pulley already, so it's getting quieter. Still, I only hear it under heavy loads.
> - Jumping is nice on this bike. I cased a few times and barely noticed. Lowering the bar height helped make the bike more balanced.
> ...


I am the opposite. I want to raise my bar another 10mm. I'm using a RaceFace Next R bar - uncut at 800mm and 20 mm rise - but my stem is almost slammed (my fork is off my old bike - the steerer tube is a bit short for my liking).

Are you running a 150 fork?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I checked mine tonight, while preping it for tomorrow's ride. I have zero driveline rub in any cog. Again, XO Eagle and a 30 tooth RaceFace Next R crank.
> 
> I am the opposite. I want to raise my bar another 10mm. I'm using a RaceFace Next R bar - uncut at 800mm and 20 mm rise - but my stem is almost slammed (my fork is off my old bike - the steerer tube is a bit short for my liking).
> 
> Are you running a 150 fork?


I'm on a 140 Pike with ~30mm spacers under the Turbine 50mm stem on a Next R bar with 20mm rise. I felt like I was too tall on the bike, to the point that I was in the back seat, which made the front push in corners.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Went for a nice fall ride today with some friends. I met up with a group who started talking to me about the Druid. One of them was a friend of the owner of Inside Line Mountain Bike Service of Calgary. He told me the owner has a Large built and a medium frame he is in the process of building. He demoed the large yesterday and was blown away. Apparently the large is currently available for demos for anyone in the Calgary area.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

pinkrobe said:


> First couple of rides done:
> - Climbing is ridiculously efficient. The BB is lower than what I'm used to (Trek Slash and Ibis Ripmo), but not so low that it was an issue. There was no bob while climbing. At all.
> - Noise level is quite low. I'm running XT 12 speed, and the chain is wearing down the upper pulley already, so it's getting quieter. Still, I only hear it under heavy loads.
> - Jumping is nice on this bike. I cased a few times and barely noticed. Lowering the bar height helped make the bike more balanced.
> ...


Awesome - glad you are liking - let's see some pictures!

This bike can climb and pedal with best of them. I am setting a number of PRs climbing this bike. It doesn't always feel like it it but it is motoring up the mountain. I am alway shocked when I look at the times.

Its like a bruiser trail bike that pedals very well. It is fun!

I am also finding that I am running less spacers under the stem with this bike, as it feels more balanced. This is accounting for stack height differences amongst my other bikes and this is the lowest, but it feels great!


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

A little sneak peek on the XL Druid


__
http://instagr.am/p/B3Xfo3ZnMHt/


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

cheezwhip said:


> A little sneak peek on the XL Druid
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B3Xfo3ZnMHt/


Interesting. I emailed them a week ago to ask about the XL and potential build kits, but got no response.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

MarcusBrody said:


> Interesting. I emailed them a week ago to ask about the XL and potential build kits, but got no response.


Some have had luck emailing them. Me? None. Zero. I ended up building up the frame with no input on any of the questions I asked. Whatever. It turned out great.

Same as the website. "Coming soon" has been up there since the website was first created.

It makes me very uncomfortable wondering what will happen when something unique breaks and I need support.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Some have had luck emailing them. Me? None. Zero. I ended up building up the frame with no input on any of the questions I asked. Whatever. It turned out great.
> 
> Same as the website. "Coming soon" has been up there since the website was first created.
> 
> It makes me very uncomfortable wondering what will happen when something unique breaks and I need support.


I feel the same way. I'm very interested in the bike, but things like this make me a tiny bit worried for the same reason. I currently have a Santa Cruz and - say what you will about the company - it's nice knowing that if something goes wrong I am sure I can get it taken care of.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I've gotten email responses for everything so far - it might not be on-the-spot / right away like WeAreOneComposites or OnyxRacing, but Forbidden has dealt with all my queries and requests to my satisfaction to date.

YMMV of course.

Did I mention how much I <3  this bike?

Fanatik has been a good support resource as well.


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

Maybe it’s just hit or miss with emails? I think it took like maybe 5 days for my request for info back from them.

FYI stand over height is measured 200mm from the top-center of seat tube.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

YogiKudo said:


> I have settled on my body weight which is 185 naked. This is also what Forbidden recommends.


I would not trust any bike company that recommends nude riding. At least wear a helmet!


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Some have had luck emailing them. Me? None. Zero. I ended up building up the frame with no input on any of the questions I asked. Whatever. It turned out great.
> 
> Same as the website. "Coming soon" has been up there since the website was first created.
> 
> It makes me very uncomfortable wondering what will happen when something unique breaks and I need support.


It took them two weeks to get back to me via email. Told my late Nov for the XL's to be in stock.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

MarcusBrody said:


> I feel the same way. I'm very interested in the bike, but things like this make me a tiny bit worried for the same reason. I currently have a Santa Cruz and - say what you will about the company - it's nice knowing that if something goes wrong I am sure I can get it taken care of.


As things tend to happen, Forbidden got back to me today. Thanks, Forbidden!

They expect to have the XLs landing in December, but there has been above expected demand for them, so availability will be limited. They didn't have any updates on full builds. They hope to offer them at some point, but don't have any concrete details. I get the feeling that demand for frames may have been even stronger than they anticipated in some sectors, so full builds aren't of primary concern at the moment. Which is good as I wish them all the success they can get!


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I'm hoping WeAreOneComposites are making their next bike...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> I'm hoping WeAreOneComposites are making their next bike...


Hahaha! I understand Dustin and Owen are good buddies. Who knows?

As an aside, my Druid is sporting Insiders. My Honzo is sporting Agents.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Hahaha! I understand Dustin and Owen are good buddies. Who knows?
> 
> As an aside, my Druid is sporting Insiders. My Honzo is sporting Agents.


I've got a set of Factions on the Druid right now (had Unions on there last week).

WA1 are in process of making a bike frame based a recent interview I read.

https://bikepacking.com/plog/we-are-one-composites/



> What's next on the agenda for We Are One?
> We are a company of firsts. First manufacturer in Canada to produce a carbon fiber mountain bike rim, first to produce a carbon mountain bike bar, and we will continue. We are in the early stages of a bike frame and will hope to have something to show the public in 2020. I want to build as many components here for our bike and sell a bike that offers something no other company can when it comes to carbon fiber.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Put a Super Deluxe Coil on my Druid, and it is definetly suitable for a coil, im 170 and I needed a 350 spring to get 30% sag. If you’re much lighter it may be tough to get the correct spring rate. 

The bike definetly feels better in the end stroke which with the DPX2 was too progressive. Im still dialing it in but think that Coil is a good idea for this bike if youre considering it. Just be ready to try a lighter spring than usual, on my Kona Process 153 and Intense Recluse I was on 450lb springs to get the same sag as the 350 on the druid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

cheezwhip said:


> I'm hoping WeAreOneComposites are making their next bike...


Maybe...all of them have been riding Druids this season.

That would be AMAZING if they got together to design the enduro bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

robnow said:


> Maybe...all of them have been riding Druids this season.
> 
> That would be AMAZING if they got together to design the enduro bike.


This is true. Dustin and his associate, Jordan, are enjoying their own personal Druids.






https://m.pinkbike.com/news/not-a-typical-kamloops-video-jeff-kendall-weeds-meets-the-kbra.html

And yes - it would be amazing if Forbidden and We Are One joined forces and did a joint release.

In a strange turn of events, I actually ended up with Dustin's frame that he had ordered. Being the stellar dude that he is, he gave me the last large black and took a gloss moss instead. True story.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Anyone 183-184cm running a large frame? The frames are quite rare in the UK and although I’m interested in the Druid I’m a little concerned about the sizing.
I currently run a large SB4.5 and was intending to replace with an SB130. Yet the bike felt small and not particularly playful.
On paper the numbers are similar. Hence my concern.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Anyone 183-184cm running a large frame? The frames are quite rare in the UK and although I'm interested in the Druid I'm a little concerned about the sizing.
> I currently run a large SB4.5 and was intending to replace with an SB130. Yet the bike felt small and not particularly playful.
> On paper the numbers are similar. Hence my concern.


I am about 180cm (5'11"). I have a 34 inch inseam. I weigh 185 lbs (in the morning, out of the shower). Long arms and legs and lean as can be. I have a large. I would NOT want a medium. I like larger, rather than smaller frames. In my view, the large Druid fits me perfectly (subject to maybe 10mm more rise).

If it matters, 150mm 36 fork, 50mm stem, 180mm bar with 20mm rise and no spacers. I may prefer 10mm more rise and am thinking about borrowing a 30 or even 40mm rise bar from my LBS to try.

Happy to measure ape index if you wish, or answer any further questions.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

After some time riding this bike on a coil here is what I think.

1. Unless you are 170lbs and over it is very limited on spring options as I needed a 350lb spring to get 30% Sag on my Super Deluxe Coil at 170lbs. 

2. The bike is glued to the ground, this thing charges in a straight line better than 160 bikes ive ridden. I wouldnt say it feels like a magic carpet but if you point it where you want to go it hauls. 

3. The air shock feels happier making quick tight turns and also popping over stuff. I also found that the DPX2 ran best around 33% sag with Zero Volume spacers, it would bottom slightly on bigger hits, but nothing harsh. 

4. This bike is the best bike ive ridden but for my style I think im going to try out a Super Deluxe Air with a Meg Neg aircan. Thats my favorite shock and think it would be awesome on this bike. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

How does a dropper post cable route through the Druid frame and attach to the post? I see the maximum insertion numbers but am unsure if that number includes cable bend at dropper post bottom. 
Thanks


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

nmxtrdr said:


> How does a dropper post cable route through the Druid frame and attach to the post? I see the maximum insertion numbers but am unsure if that number includes cable bend at dropper post bottom.
> Thanks


There's a large cover on the underside of the downtube just in front of the BB area that allows access to this.

I believe you run the cable down the downtube.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

cheezwhip said:


> There's a large cover on the underside of the downtube just in front of the BB area that allows access to this.
> 
> I believe you run the cable down the downtube.


Thanks

I see the access cover, what I'm trying to find out is whether the maximum insertion figures quoted (220mm for small and 240 for medium) include the cable routing at the bottom of the dropper post.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

nmxtrdr said:


> Thanks
> 
> I see the access cover, what I'm trying to find out is whether the maximum insertion figures quoted (220mm for small and 240 for medium) include the cable routing at the bottom of the dropper post.


I was able to fully insert a OneUp V2 210mm dropper in my large, and it has 297mm insert length including the actuator on the bottom of the post. The large Druid is advertised as having a max insertion of 270mm, so it would appear there is some leeway there. YMMV.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

pinkrobe said:


> I was able to fully insert a OneUp V2 210mm dropper in my large, and it has 297mm insert length including the actuator on the bottom of the post. The large Druid is advertised as having a max insertion of 270mm, so it would appear there is some leeway there. YMMV.


Good to hear. Thanks


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> My E13 Upper Idler Pulley was not spinning smoothly and to Forbidden's credit, there is a replacement en route. I have a trip planned this week though and needed to get this resolved ASAP so I got another 6902 bearing and swapped it out. Happy to say it is spinning much better with the new bearing.
> 
> 
> by ChainWhip, on Flickr
> ...


Boom. Just like that I got nailed with the same thing. Pooched bearing in the idler pulley.

I sent a couple of emails off to Forbidden today but have heard nothing. I hope I hear from them. Does anyone have a telephone number or other contact info other than their email?


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Boom. Just like that I got nailed with the same thing. Pooched bearing in the idler pulley.
> 
> I sent a couple of emails off to Forbidden today but have heard nothing. I hope I hear from them. Does anyone have a telephone number or other contact info other than their email?


No Ph# - just email. Weekend so probably slower to respond - maybe try hitting them up on IG or FB. They sent me a replacement BTW. Try your shop too.

6902 bearing if you have access to tools to pull and press it in. Took me about 5 min.

Enduro recommended these for SS bearings:

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/pro...ridge/400c-stainless-steel/S6902-LLU-MAX.html

I ended up getting the XD-15's.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

In the market for a long travel (~150-160mm) 29r - hopefully Forbidden has one up their sleeves soon?


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

Does the Druid’s rear end squat or anti-squat (extend) when the rear brake is applied?


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## Smackem (Sep 2, 2019)

Anti-squat is a characteristic of peddling forces on suspension. Peddle bob is the undesired trait.

Anti-rise is a characteristic of braking forces on suspension. Brake jack is the undesired trait.

The idler deals with the anti-squat. The high pivot suspension causes rear center to extend, and others have stated they get brake jack.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> No Ph# - just email. Weekend so probably slower to respond - maybe try hitting them up on IG or FB. They sent me a replacement BTW. Try your shop too.
> 
> 6902 bearing if you have access to tools to pull and press it in. Took me about 5 min.
> 
> ...


Thanks tons. I am going to PM you if that's ok.

I can honestly say that with the chain on, I could not detect any resistance in the driveline from the idler pulley. But with the chain off, it's clearly f'ed. It's going to be interesting to see how that bike rides once I get a non-crunchy idler pulley on there.

Kinda concerned this seems to be happening with some degree of regularity, but also excited to see if I notice a material difference in resistance once it's swapped out.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

Smackem said:


> Anti-squat is a characteristic of peddling forces on suspension. Peddle bob is the undesired trait.
> 
> Anti-rise is a characteristic of braking forces on suspension. Brake jack is the undesired trait.
> 
> The idler deals with the anti-squat. The high pivot suspension causes rear center to extend, and others have stated they get brake jack.


Thanks for the reply. The term brake jack used to describe the Druid's braking is my hang up here as I have heard people call forward weight shift from rear braking brake jack, and rear end squatting brake jack. Which one does the Druid exhibit?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nmxtrdr said:


> Thanks for the reply. The term brake jack used to describe the Druid's braking is my hang up here as I have heard people call forward weight shift from rear braking brake jack, and rear end squatting brake jack. Which one does the Druid exhibit?


I am going to wait for others with more experience with kinematics to chime in. That said, I know exactly how I would answer this query...


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am going to wait for others with more experience with kinematics to chime in. That said, I know exactly how I would answer this query...


Please, answer away.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

nmxtrdr said:


> Thanks for the reply. The term brake jack used to describe the Druid's braking is my hang up here as I have heard people call forward weight shift from rear braking brake jack, and rear end squatting brake jack. Which one does the Druid exhibit?


The Druid is a squatting type of brake jack, its not super harsh but it definetly keeps the rear wheel on the ground and you feel that a litte bit. Its not a bad trait at all for me and its a lot of personal preference what you like.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

AKRCD47 said:


> The Druid is a squatting type of brake jack, its not super harsh but it definetly keeps the rear wheel on the ground and you feel that a litte bit. Its not a bad trait at all for me and its a lot of personal preference what you like.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you.


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks tons. I am going to PM you if that's ok.
> 
> I can honestly say that with the chain on, I could not detect any resistance in the driveline from the idler pulley. But with the chain off, it's clearly f'ed. It's going to be interesting to see how that bike rides once I get a non-crunchy idler pulley on there.
> 
> Kinda concerned this seems to be happening with some degree of regularity, but also excited to see if I notice a material difference in resistance once it's swapped out.


I'll chime in quickly on the idler pulley bearing, my stock Enduro 6902 Max bearing was also destroyed in 6 months. I pulled it off the idler mount a few times and noticed it was not smooth and very crunchy. I repacked it once with Phil Wood grease and I don't think it helped very much.

I spoke to Cheezwip and went with the recommendation of the Stainless Steel 6902 Enduro Max bearing ($15). I made a simple bearing press with a 1/4" bolt and washers which worked great in a pinch.

Overall I think the idler bearing does have a large effect on the efficiency of drivetrain especially under load even though you may not notice it by spinning the cranks. First ride on it and I noticed it immediately, we did an 11 mile loop I've done this season a few times and the new bearing definitely made a difference. The bike felt like I remembered it when it was new and I was not as tired at the end of the long climb. My advice to people that are feeling the frame is sluggish at times is to check the idler bearing.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks tons. I am going to PM you if that's ok.


Sure thing - nobody's stopping ya hahah

I can tell a difference but my BB was jacked too so I swapped that out also... can't know for sure if it was just the Idler or both and to which degree each contributed to the drag.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Hey Everyone,
I am looking to replace my current 150mm squish 27.5 bike with a 130-140mm 29er as my one quiver bike. This is for 90% natural trail/all mountain use, no full on DH tracks or bike parks. Very good technical climbing ability and descending chops are equally important to me. Am super intrigued by the Druid and totally dig the design and geometry numbers. Those of you that have now spent some riding time on the Druid, is it a good match as good all around one quiver bike? In terms of frame quality and craftmenship, do you think it's made to last?

Don't really have opportunities to do any demo rides, but at least on paper I have kind of narrowed it down to the Druid or Knolly Fugitive LT. Yup, carbon vs alu and very different suspension designs, but I think overall intent of these 2 bikes is very similar, if not identical. Am agnostic in terms of frame material and don't care all that much about half kilo heavier weight of the Fugitive. Ride quality, frame quality and vendor support are way more important to me. What say you?


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

fizzywater said:


> Hey Everyone,
> I am looking to replace my current 150mm squish 27.5 bike with a 130-140mm 29er as my one quiver bike. This is for 90% natural trail/all mountain use, no full on DH tracks or bike parks. Very good technical climbing ability and descending chops are equally important to me. Am super intrigued by the Druid and totally dig the design and geometry numbers. Those of you that have now spent some riding time on the Druid, is it a good match as good all around one quiver bike? In terms of frame quality and craftmenship, do you think it's made to last?
> 
> Don't really have opportunities to do any demo rides, but at least on paper I have kind of narrowed it down to the Druid or Knolly Fugitive LT. Yup, carbon vs alu and very different suspension designs, but I think overall intent of these 2 bikes is very similar, if not identical. Am agnostic in terms of frame material and don't care all that much about half kilo heavier weight of the Fugitive. Ride quality, frame quality and vendor support are way more important to me. What say you?


Hey there, I came from from a Kona Process 153 27.5 so similar to you. This bike can handle just as much as that bike could but it is even faster and it makes better use of its travel. Ive ridden lots of bikes and this is my favorite and I wont be selling it for a long time.

Things that make it super unique is the HSP and also how they make sure to adjust the rear center length for each size frame. Thats the main reason I bought it. The geo is very good, and its quick to feel comfortable on.

It isnt the lightest bike in the world but its not a porker either, climbs well, descends amazing, works well with a coil and will hold a good resale value because not many people have them. The pivots and craftsmenship defineitly feel built to last.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Funny you should post this, I just got a Druid and my other bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT. I'm still working on suspension settings on the Druid but so far it seems to be pretty much even with the Knolly on technical climbing and ahead on high speed descending through rough stuff. The Knolly did slower speed turns better and was slightly more nimble. Knolly had better braking traction. Druid is better looking.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

rpearce1475 said:


> Funny you should post this, I just got a Druid and my other bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT. I'm still working on suspension settings on the Druid but so far it seems to be pretty much even with the Knolly on technical climbing and ahead on high speed descending through rough stuff. The Knolly did slower speed turns better and was slightly more nimble. Knolly had better braking traction. Druid is better looking.


Very interesting the direct comparison. Thanks for the feedback! Since they seem redundant in overall intent, any decision yet which one you are going to keep and why?

BTW, I pulled the trigger on the Druid last night and should receive it on Friday. Can't wait. I think going with the Fugitive LT would have been perfectly fine too, but deep down I wanted the Druid, so I stuck with my intuition.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

rpearce1475 said:


> Funny you should post this, I just got a Druid and my other bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT. I'm still working on suspension settings on the Druid but so far it seems to be pretty much even with the Knolly on technical climbing and ahead on high speed descending through rough stuff. The Knolly did slower speed turns better and was slightly more nimble. Knolly had better braking traction. Druid is better looking.


How do you feel about the poppiness of the bikes? I road the Knolly not long ago and wasn't super excited about it. It might have been the shock set up, but it was less than excited to pop up over small trail features. It had great climbing traction though.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

The Druid is just about as playful / poppy as my Evil Calling was.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

The druid is a size larger so more stable than the Knolly, not a huge difference in poppiness I've noticed but perhaps any difference is negated by the size difference. I'm keeping both but the Knolly is going to my girlfriend, it was too small for me but is perfect size for her


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> The druid is a size larger so more stable than the Knolly, not a huge difference in poppiness I've noticed but perhaps any difference is negated by the size difference. I'm keeping both but the Knolly is going to my girlfriend, it was too small for me but is perfect size for her


I thought you said the Knolly was going to be your girlfriend. I was wondering what the Druid was going to be. Possibly your mistress...

Lucky GF btw!


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

I also ordered mine a couple of weeks back after i sold my Ibis Ripley V4. I am currently waiting patiently until it arrives before Christmas and watching/reading everything that is Forbidden druid related to feed my hunger  ! 
It is the first time i ordered a bike which i have never ridden before! Let's see...


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

manos-t said:


> I also ordered mine a couple of weeks back after i sold my Ibis Ripley V4. I am currently waiting patiently until it arrives before Christmas and watching/reading everything that is Forbidden druid related to feed my hunger  !
> It is the first time i ordered a bike which i have never ridden before! Let's see...


I'll be interested to hear your feelings as the Ripley V4 is another bike I'm considering for my next ride.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

Well, i was almost 10 years into road-gravel-hardtails and that was my first real full suspension mtb so take everything with a pinch of salt.
The frame quality was OK, it also depends with what you are comparing it. Mine had that issue that some V4 have under the seatclamps where the paint looks bad. 
That of course is nothing really important, but when i was comparing the frame/paint quality with one of my friends' Revel Rascal, you could tell that the Rascal frame was way better built( and from what i hear the Druid aswell). I usually end up breaking my bikes, but for 3k, i would expect a better quality control.
It was a fun bike, climbed well and i think i got why it is so popular. It was my first time on a DW link bike so in the beginning i got really excited. But taking into consideration that as a 200+ lbs rider (mostly fit) with 5% of the skills of Jeff Kendall Weed, when it came to the decends, i couldnt feel the hype of the really capable on the descends bike that i was keep hearing. At high speeds it was feeling sketchy (even after i switched from fox34 to a pike) and while you theoretically could go really fast, i didnt feel confident ( trails with some steep sections mostly rooty and flowy, not something crazy). 
My point is, for me that i have this specific background, i dont really care only for the climbing. Again, it would be a wise idea to go and demo one in order to see if you like it or not because everything except the quality part is a bit subjective 
Also from what i hear from how the Druid rides, i would compare it to the Ripmo, if you want something equally capable. Again, i havent ridden the Druid yet and had the Ripmo for a couple of days!
Now why i chose the Druid? The guys behind the company seem to be legit and it is a new idea that also have some really good unbiased reviews. 
Plus the shop that i ordered it online was extremely helpful!
Now i have to choose, lyrik or fox 36?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

manos-t said:


> Now i have to choose, lyrik or fox 36?


I'm in the same boat trying to decide between Lyrik, Fox 36 and possibly also Manitou Mezzer. Going with the Mezzer would rob me of the option to transfer the Smashpot coil I have on my Pike, whereas transferring to Lyrik or Fox 36 would not be an issue. First world problems .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

Well my issue is that i can't really justify the price difference of the Ultimate vs fit4/grip2. It is almost 500 euro in Europe!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

manos-t said:


> Well my issue is that i can't really justify the price difference of the Ultimate vs fit4/grip2. It is almost 500 euro in Europe!


I've been riding Fox 36 forks for years, and even when I was closer to 200 lbs with gear, they were always a bit too firm/harsh for my liking. The one I had on my Trek Slash last year had a Vorsprung Luftkappe and GRIP2 damper which got it pretty close to what I like [I have a Fox 40 with GRIP2 on my DH bike, and it's excellent], but not quite. This past summer I had an Ibis Ripmo with a regular 36 and ran into the same problems as before - just a bit too harsh. I went with a Pike Ultimate on my Druid, and so far I'm very happy with it. The HSC adjustment is very effective, going from super-plush to super-firm in 4 clicks.

Regarding the Ripmo, I wasn't particularly impressed. My Slash was a slightly better climber and far better descender. If the Slash had a steeper seat angle, it would have completely crushed the Ripmo on the climbs. I bought my Druid without ever riding it or even seeing it in person. It's better than the Ripmo on both the climbs and descents, which is a major relief. On the same trails, it's faster and smoother.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Hey, anyone here stick a chris king headset in their druid? Just wondering and making sure it is an Inset 2 model.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> I've been riding Fox 36 forks for years, and even when I was closer to 200 lbs with gear, they were always a bit too firm/harsh for my liking. The one I had on my Trek Slash last year had a Vorsprung Luftkappe and GRIP2 damper which got it pretty close to what I like [I have a Fox 40 with GRIP2 on my DH bike, and it's excellent], but not quite. This past summer I had an Ibis Ripmo with a regular 36 and ran into the same problems as before - just a bit too harsh. I went with a Pike Ultimate on my Druid, and so far I'm very happy with it. The HSC adjustment is very effective, going from super-plush to super-firm in 4 clicks.


140 or 150mm travel with the pike?
I was thinking the pike in the beginning, but then i thought of the Lyrik and then the Fox 36. Too many choices and i am pretty sure that it will ride really good with any of these forks.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

The Fox 36 forks tend to have too much SlickHoney applied to the air shaft at the piston - this often is the cause of that harsh feeling.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

manos-t said:


> 140 or 150mm travel with the pike?
> I was thinking the pike in the beginning, but then i thought of the Lyrik and then the Fox 36. Too many choices and i am pretty sure that it will ride really good with any of these forks.


It's at 140 right now, but I have a 150 air spring that I might drop in. Yes, any of the forks would work fine.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

cheezwhip said:


> The Fox 36 forks tend to have too much SlickHoney applied to the air shaft at the piston - this often is the cause of that harsh feeling.


I've found that it's the HSC circuit combined with a small-ish negative air chamber.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Last Pike I had was wallowy AF. Horrible for the steep and deep. I tried everything. Tokens, ShockWiz, MRP Ramp Control, maintenance of a journal of all my tweaks. Nope. Pure ****. I gave up. 

That said, I understand that the particular Pike I had was the single shittiest Pike model ever made. 

Running a 36 at 150 on my Druid. Awesome. Running a 34 at 140 on my Honzo. Also awesome. Perfect forks for the terrain I ride. Me and Fox will be together for the rest of this lifetime. Maybe the next one too.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Hey guys, has anyone tried the druid with a 160mm fork? Also, any 6' riders on a large? If so, how does it feel. Seems like all the testers in reviews are 5'11".


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

I am 6 foot but am waiting for the xl. With this size the reach is 485 with a 150 mm fork. This is not that big considering I am coming off a XL santa cruz TB3 (480 reach) with a 50 mm stem and a Pole 158 L (510 reach) with a 30 mm stem.

I prefer a bit of a larger bike and run a smaller stem. People like smaller bikes because they find them flick-able but I wanted a bike like that I would buy a nice dirt jumper and not a high end trail bike. 

Anyone here the date that the XL frame is in stock?


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

depeche4 said:


> Anyone here the date that the XL frame is in stock?


Mid november at fanatic (at least what it is mentioned when you try to build one)
The bikeshop that i ordered it in UK (i ordered a L) told me that the next batch will arrive mid December


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I’m 5’10.5” tall. 34 inch inseam. 35 inch sleeve length. 185 pounds.

My large is great. No complaints. That said, I could never ride a medium, and I might prefer an XL. The L is as small as I would ever want to go. But I could go bigger for sure. 

Then again, unlike the rest of the world, I like my bike frames on the bigger/higher side. Can’t stand short stacks.

The Druid is a long-ish bike but the cockpit is not what I would call roomy.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm 5'10.5" tall. 34 inch inseam. 35 inch sleeve length. 185 pounds.
> 
> My large is great. No complaints. That said, I could never ride a medium, and I might prefer an XL. The L is as small as I would ever want to go. But I could go bigger for sure.
> 
> ...


Everything now with these 76 to 68 degree seat tube angles make the idea of a roomy cockpit somewhat rare. I had a Santa Cruz TB3 Xl and then I rode the TB4 Xl at a demo. It felt smaller because of the seat angle. I like longer bikes, I had a few Mondrakers that I had brought over from Europe. Everyone says they can not handle the tight stuff, bs. People say that without ever riding a longer wheel base bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just to follow up on my idler pulley issue, I contacted Forbidden. They were not prepared to treat the blown bearings as a warranty claim. They did offer to send me a new idler pulley assembly for $39.99, plus shipping costs of $9.99. Pretty disappointing but not the end of the world. 

I got the new local Forbidden dealer to replace the bearings instead. In and out in 20 minutes. They did a few tweaks to my bike assembly too, which was nice. 

This is the difference between buying direct, and buying through your LBS. My LBS would NEVER let me down like that. Ever. I have had **** replaced like this for free long after my idler pulley bearings failed, which was within a few months of relatively light riding (I was on my Honzo WAY more). 

Great bike, but (sadly) zero customer satisfaction dealing with Forbidden. Between this and the radio silence to my emails during my build going unanswered, I rate them a fail on customer service. Pretty **** experience so far. 

...and no phone number. Awesome. 

Maybe I am just a difficult customer. Or in a particularly edgy mood at the moment.

This is reminiscent of the old Santa Cruz days - great bikes but issues with a small, rider run company.

I’m just glad I have a local dealer now. With a phone number. 

PS - what really pissed me off about the idler pulley bearing issue is that south of the border, I understand that Fanatik, as distributor, has replaced the idler pulley for free, in identical circumstances. So add inconsistent treatment to my complaints. Again, something to be said about having a middleman to deal with. This is my first and will be my last foray into a direct buy bike purchase. Long live the LBS.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

*mtnbikermike*, I'm sorry to hear that you had a bad CS experience. Thankfully, Cam runs a tight shop and was able to take care of you. My dealings with Forbidden have been excellent, but that in itself is an issue - _inconsistent customer service is almost as bad as poor customer service_. It takes real effort to create a solid warranty/service team, and Forbidden will likely tighten things up over time. A few of us in this thread may have inside contact info for them - this would be a good opportunity to send suggestions to people who can effect change in the organization.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> *mtnbikermike* I have no info on geometry, but the XL Druid was proportionately bigger than the L, which makes sense.


The geo on their site (for example 485mm reach with a 150 fork) is not going to change is it? I assume what they have had up for 6 months is what they are making.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

depeche4 said:


> The geo on their site (for example 485mm reach with a 150 fork) is not going to change is it? I assume what they have had up for 6 months is what they are making.


I don't know. I imagine it would stay the same...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> *mtnbikermike*, I'm sorry to hear that you had a bad CS experience. Thankfully, Cam runs a tight shop and was able to take care of you. My dealings with Forbidden have been excellent, but that in itself is an issue - _inconsistent customer service is almost as bad as poor customer service_. It takes real effort to create a solid warranty/service team, and Forbidden will likely tighten things up over time. A few of us in this thread may have inside contact info for them - this would be a good opportunity to send suggestions to people who can effect change in the organization.


That is such an awesome response, on so many fronts. Thank you. I feel much better now because of it.

FWIW, my view is this...

I don't fk around when it comes to bikes. I do not settle for second best. I am willing to pay the asking price, and I don't nickel and dime anyone. But when I lay a thick stack of my hard earned money on the table, with no nickel and diming, I expect the same in return. Petty bullshit is not what I signed up for. It ruins the experience.

There are other nagging (likely insignificant) issues I have had with Forbidden on the CS front as well, but best that these be taken offline.

I love the bike. I love Owen Pemberton. This is my third Owen Pemberton creation in a row. I love that they are Canadian based. I love everything about them. I want them to succeed (however Owen and his crew define "success" - which is not necessarily sales volume). I want them to be around forever. I'm not hating on them. To the contrary. But I am pretty disappointed with the experience I have had to date.

Re Cam and Zach - agreed - 100% solid guys. Cam comes from my LBS that I have been loyally dealing with for well over 2 decades. He does everything I love about my LBS, yet he is small, very personable and patient, and meticulous (I still love my non-Forbidden LBS, but they seem to have strayed a bit from the niche, high end retailer they once were, and what Cam now is).

Anyway, thank you for responding.

In typing this, I realize that I am largely overreacting and being pretty petty myself. Maybe both me and Forbidden can do a hard reset and start things over from afresh. Thanks again.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That is such an awesome response, on so many fronts. Thank you. I feel much better now because of it.
> 
> FWIW, my view is this...
> 
> ...


Are you still happy with the bike? This warranty stuff is the only think making me Leary. I don't live anywhere near a dealer and they have been pretty inconsistent with communication.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Mgrantorser said:


> Are you still happy with the bike? This warranty stuff is the only think making me Leary. I don't live anywhere near a dealer and they have been pretty inconsistent with communication.


Apart from the idler pulley bearings that **** the bed out of the gates, the bike has been stellar. I stand by my earlier posts in this thread as to its capabilities and ride feel. It never disappoints. Along with my Honzo, funnest 1-2 punch I have ever owned. I feel like I have an unfair advantage every time I go for a group ride with it. When I finish a ride, I am immediately thinking about the next one. It makes me want to ride more.

Happy to elaborate on anything.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

I am planning on selling my medium Moss Druid frame with DPX2 and headset. PM me if interested. Its in great shape, as I own and ride multiple bikes. This one is not getting ridden as much hence the sale. I will place an official ad soon, but figured reach out to folks that interested first.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

Dude! said:


> I am planning on selling my medium Moss Druid frame with DPX2 and headset. PM me if interested. Its in great shape, as I own and ride multiple bikes. This one is not getting ridden as much hence the sale. I will place an official ad soon, but figured reach out to folks that interested first.


What other bikes do you have? Can you give us all a bit of a quick comparison on how the Druid compares to your other bikes in the climbing ease, descending speed, descending playfulness axes?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> I am planning on selling my medium Moss Druid frame with DPX2 and headset. PM me if interested. Its in great shape, as I own and ride multiple bikes. This one is not getting ridden as much hence the sale. I will place an official ad soon, but figured reach out to folks that interested first.





MarcusBrody said:


> What other bikes do you have? Can you give us all a bit of a quick comparison on how the Druid compares to your other bikes in the climbing ease, descending speed, descending playfulness axes?


Interesting. I too would be interested in some non-sugar coated views on why you are selling the Druid, and what other bikes in your quiver are getting more ride time, and why.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

MarcusBrody said:


> What other bikes do you have? Can you give us all a bit of a quick comparison on how the Druid compares to your other bikes in the climbing ease, descending speed, descending playfulness axes?


Simply - I wish it was a tad longer.
Irony - I bought this because of its geometry and it is the reason that I am selling it.

I had an Evil Offering last year, and I didn't jive with the new longer, geometry. However, I didn't want the old school geometry and the Druid was right in the middle. The geometry of the bike makes it is easy to ride. So my reasons for buying it worked out!

I have 3 bikes - Ibis Ripley V4, Druid, and Specialized Enduro 2020.

Ripley - it's a great trail bike, that works best as a trail bike. It's very poppy and playful and encourages you to pedal and hammer the pedals. Its a tad harsh at times - hence why it is best as a trail bike. Some trail bikes can operate into more aggressive trails easily, this is not one of those bikes. Yes, you can ride it on more aggressive trails, its just not as much fun and you will have to go a bit slower. For normal trails - it doesn't get much better and you can go hard and fast.

Druid - it is truly the best pedaler. It is probably the best pedaling bike that I have ever owned. It is the fastest pedaler. I have broken most of my uphill PRs with the Druid. The reason that it doesn't bounce when it hits any trail feature small or large so it lets you keep pedaling uphill with efficiency. When the trail gets really rough, the Druid climbs right up and over. It has climbed sections of trails that I know I will never make on any other bike. As well as it pedals, the pedaling is a bit muted. As Chainwhip has coined it has muted efficiency. The Druid can handle trails, AM trails, and more. It blurs the lines. The downhill is fun and the suspension is awesome. It doesn't feel as bottomless as some bikes, but its not harsh. I haven't noticed any issues with the chainstay growth, etc. It pops easily and its fun to throw around.

Frame is amazing, I love the color, I love everything about the bike. HOWEVER, I wish it was a tad longer. Since riding the Enduro and even the Ripley, I find that these bikes ride best when riding them off of the front. The Ripley can be ridden off the back or on the front. The Enduro definitely requires riding it more off the front. I was able to adjust the Ripley to ride it off the front, which has been a blast. I haven't been able to make this happen with the Druid. Everytime, I find myself riding it off the back no matter what I do - longer stem, rolled forward bars, etc. It just works out riding it off the back. The Druid rides best with a 40mm stem with respect to weighting the bike.

Specialized Enduro 2020 - this is new school geometry and as a guy who didn't like new school geometry, I love the fit of this bike. I am still figuring this bike out, but I really like it. It is the future of biking!

Hope that helps and answers folks questions.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Dude! said:


> Simply - I wish it was a tad longer.
> Irony - I bought this because of its geometry and it is the reason that I am selling it.
> 
> I had an Evil Offering last year, and I didn't jive with the new longer, geometry. However, I didn't want the old school geometry and the Druid was right in the middle. The geometry of the bike makes it is easy to ride. So my reasons for buying it worked out!
> ...


You think you should have went up a size then?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> Simply - I wish it was a tad longer.
> Irony - I bought this because of its geometry and it is the reason that I am selling it.
> 
> I had an Evil Offering last year, and I didn't jive with the new longer, geometry. However, I didn't want the old school geometry and the Druid was right in the middle. The geometry of the bike makes it is easy to ride. So my reasons for buying it worked out!
> ...


Some of your comments mirror mine - especially with respect to climbing. I cleaned parts in Fernie this summer that I have never been able to clean on any other bike. Not sure about PRs as I am not a Strava guy, but I would say the bike climbs more slow and steady, reliably clawing its way from bottom to top, than with PR speed necessarily.

Do you plan on replacing it and if so, with what?

Not a lot of negatives in your mini-review. We may have to wait for your post-sale comments 

PS - I may have missed it, but did you mention your height? What about sleeve length and inseam?


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

depeche4 said:


> You think you should have went up a size then?


Good question...at the time, no! Now - I am not sure. I don't have an issue with the fit. In the saddle - it feels great. It just rides best off the back.

The Ripley V4 and Druid are nearly the same size, the Ripley has a shorter front center. I don't understand why I can ride this bike off the front and not the Druid. If I could figure this out, I would keep it, because it is a great bike. The large is a bit longer and not sure if I could ride it, especially with my short legs! I wish I could try - would require a trip to Washington to ride Chainwhips! It always nice to visit friends!


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Some of your comments mirror mine - especially with respect to climbing. I cleaned parts in Fernie this summer that I have never been able to clean on any other bike. Not sure about PRs as I am not a Strava guy, but I would say the bike climbs more slow and steady, reliably clawing its way from bottom to top, than with PR speed necessarily.
> 
> Do you plan on replacing it and if so, with what?
> 
> ...


I really don't have much negatives, even if I sold it. This is my second Druid and the first I think I had a lemon shock because I sold it because it didn't climb well and felt heavy pedaling. I am glad I read lots of reviews to try it again.

The muted pedaling isn't that bad. Its not like a 4x4 horst link that sucks the energy away. It just doesn't feel like you are pedaling but you are moving and once you know this - just hammer away. I couldn't how many times I was PRing climbs with this bike and it didn't feel like it. Now that I know I pedal away and just watch my friends fall farther behind!

The only thing that I wish for ...it felt more bottomless with its suspension, which I think would corresponding make it feel a tad more playful/lively with its suspension. It pops well now because its very supportive, but would like it to have more plushness with the shock.

I am 5' 8.5" and shrinking, 47 years old, longer torso than legs. My BB to top of saddle is 69.3 centimeters with 170 cranks, 5.10 sam hills, and Tenet flat pedals! I know anyone who gets on my bike immediately raises the saddle. No one ever lowers it - haha!

It could be a tad lighter, but don't really notice this on the trail and you know it can handle abuse - its solid and robust.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> I am planning on selling my medium Moss Druid frame with DPX2 and headset. PM me if interested. Its in great shape, as I own and ride multiple bikes. This one is not getting ridden as much hence the sale. I will place an official ad soon, but figured reach out to folks that interested first.





Dude! said:


> I really don't have much negatives, even if I sold it. This is my second Druid and the first I think I had a lemon shock because I sold it because it didn't climb well and felt heavy pedaling. I am glad I read lots of reviews to try it again.
> 
> The muted pedaling isn't that bad. Its not like a 4x4 horst link that sucks the energy away. It just doesn't feel like you are pedaling but you are moving and once you know this - just hammer away. I couldn't how many times I was PRing climbs with this bike and it didn't feel like it. Now that I know I pedal away and just watch my friends fall farther behind!
> 
> ...


Thanks. Agreed again on your comments, except perhaps on the Horst link characteristics. My first Owen Pemberton creation was a 2015 Range - a Horst link. That thing had more AS than any bike I have been on in my life. But no idler pulley so I felt it through the pedals.

I don't want for travel on the Druid, but then again, I am on my Honzo way more, so going to the Druid always feels truly bottomless.

I don't feel the weight at all. Mine is loaded down too - tube, levers and CO2 in the reverse SWAT box, and bear spray, pump and mini tool on the cage bosses.

Do you plan to replace the Druid with something else? If so, what are you considering?


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

*Druid vs ripmo*

While I'm leaning towards the druid, I'm still not 100% convinced. I'm wondering if any of you have spent time on the ripmo as well and could give me a comparison? The ripmo feels like it was designed for me fit wise, but I'm concerned it's going to be too linear (I'm 6' and 250# in gear). I'm also wondering if the druid will be a titch too short. I would be looking at a large in either. I'm currently riding a chromag stylus which is way too long. I don't absolutely hate the longer reach (483 w 35mm stem) but I fint too much weight on my hands and the ett is waaay too long (648mm). Conversely, I've been on a large sc ht3 and while the reach was ok, the ett was terrible. Friends keep pushing me to buy based on reach alone, but I figure I spend most of my rides seated climbing so I may as well be comfortable. Anyhow, let me know what you think,

Thanks!


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

For me, I'm coming off a Large Offering - 5'11", 220lbs, 32" inseam.

- 40mm stem @ -5°
- 800mm bars @ 15mm rise / 5° sweep
- 10mm / 12.5mm / 15mm spacer height under stem (still experimenting - have come down from 30mm)

Like Dude!, 40mm stem works best for me - still dialing in stack height... I don't feel like I have to ride off the back of the Druid - in fact, I feel like I get punished when I ride this bike with a rearward bias and it rewards aggressive positioning.

Where my hands had too much weight on the techgnar with the Offering, the Druid feels like I'm properly positioned with good weight distribution on both front and rear. Just another data point to contrast a little with Dude!'s experience.

The Druid is my short-ish travel bike that is versatile enough to capably ride more than you'd think a 130mm bike can handle... if Forbidden had a 150-160mm travel 29r, I'd already have one.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Mgrantorser said:


> While I'm leaning towards the druid, I'm still not 100% convinced. I'm wondering if any of you have spent time on the ripmo as well and could give me a comparison? The ripmo feels like it was designed for me fit wise, but I'm concerned it's going to be too linear (I'm 6' and 250# in gear). I'm also wondering if the druid will be a titch too short. I would be looking at a large in either. I'm currently riding a chromag stylus which is way too long. I don't absolutely hate the longer reach (483 w 35mm stem) but I fint too much weight on my hands and the ett is waaay too long (648mm). Conversely, I've been on a large sc ht3 and while the reach was ok, the ett was terrible. Friends keep pushing me to buy based on reach alone, but I figure I spend most of my rides seated climbing so I may as well be comfortable. Anyhow, let me know what you think,
> 
> Thanks!


Ahoy! I rode the entire summer on an Ibis Ripmo before I got the Druid, and have ripped the same trails on both bikes within a month of each other, so I'm feeling somewhat qualified to comment on both. I do tend to go by ETT instead of Reach as my primary guide for fitting. The steepish seat angle works well for me, as I have longer arms/legs and a shorter torso. I too am a seated climber. I rode a large in both bikes, and I found they both fit quite well. Regardless, here are some general impressions on Ripmo vs Druid:
*Climbing* - The Druid climbs better on actual singletrack with roots and rocks and stuff. Better traction on anything loose as well, to the point that I can run a less aggressive / faster tire on the Druid. The Ripmo does better on fire road.
*Descents* - I ride the front of the bike on descents, as that's where traction for braking and steering comes from. Fork, head angle and tires are almost more important than the rear end some of the time, but drops, cases and g-outs were all easier to handle on the Druid than the Ripmo. In terms of linear vs progressive, the Druid feels more progressive, as there is a fair bit of resistance to bottoming out. The suspension graphs may tell a different story. It's smooth resistance without a harsh bottom. I did manage to bottom the Ibis a few times, and it made an unhappy noise, as did my ankles. At 250#, you may want to go to an air shock with a 300psi max, or do a coil with lots of compression and bottom-out adjustments.
*Handling* - In general, both bikes handle changes in direction well. I thought the Ripmo was pretty good [better than my Trek Slash] at quick adjustments to line choice and such, but the Druid is just a bit better. I don't know why.
*Jumps* - Druid. Easier to pop, feels more natural in the air than the Ripmo.
*Monster Trucking* - Trek Slash, by a wide margin. I know we're comparing Ripmo to Druid, but if you are into plummeting towards the center of the Earth, the Slash is hard to beat. The Druid does pretty well, but it is a 130mm travel bike, so a little finesse goes a long way. The Ripmo is no slouch in this department but it's definitely no Slash.
*Saving Your Ass* - The Druid takes cases that would normally require judicious body english, and transforms them into elegant motions. I got bucked a few times on the Ripmo. User error for sure, but this user can make more errors on the Druid and get away with it.

If it wasn't obvious, I'm a fan of the Druid. If it didn't exist, I'd be riding my Slash and likely looking into something else for next season, like a Rocky Mountain Instinct over-forked to 160. I would not have continued with the Ripmo.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Dude! said:


> Everytime, I find myself riding it off the back no matter what I do - longer stem, rolled forward bars, etc. It just works out riding it off the back.


 Have you tried slamming the stem? I started off with 30mm of spacers under the stem, like every other bike I have had in the last 10 years. My friend was watching me ride, and he said "Dude, you look really high on the bike. Can you drop the stem?" We stopped mid-trail, took it down 10mm and everything changed. It was so much easier. I took it down another 5mm after that, and I think it's good. I kept trying to figure out why I felt like the bike was getting ahead of me and that I wasn't feeling good, and I just needed to bias things a bit lower. Witchcraft.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

pinkrobe said:


> Have you tried slamming the stem? I started off with 30mm of spacers under the stem, like every other bike I have had in the last 10 years. My friend was watching me ride, and he said "Dude, you look really high on the bike. Can you drop the stem?" We stopped mid-trail, took it down 10mm and everything changed. It was so much easier. I took it down another 5mm after that, and I think it's good. I kept trying to figure out why I felt like the bike was getting ahead of me and that I wasn't feeling good, and I just needed to bias things a bit lower. Witchcraft.


Thanks - I will give it a go, as I do like the bike. BTW - what's your bar width and stem length? Cheers!


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Thanks man, this helps. Sounds like we ride similarly, and the druid is the better option.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Dude! said:


> Thanks - I will give it a go, as I do like the bike. BTW - what's your bar width and stem length? Cheers!


800 bar with 20 rise, 50 stem with maybe 5 degree angle. I also have that same combo on a DH bike, hardtail and fatbike. I buy parts in bulk.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> 800 bar with 20 rise, 50 stem with maybe 5 degree angle. I also have that same combo on a DH bike, hardtail and fatbike. I buy parts in bulk.


Identical to mine.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

The information you all druid-owners provide to us are really helpful!! 
@Pinkrobe, what is your height?

My frame will arrive in less than a month and some parts have already arrived! So excited to build and ride this thing but probably the weather here in Norway will be sh**ty until February-March!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

manos-t said:


> The information you all druid-owners provide to us are really helpful!!
> @Pinkrobe, what is your height?
> 
> My frame will arrive in less than a month and some parts have already arrived! So excited to build and ride this thing but probably the weather here in Norway will be sh**ty until February-March!


I am 180cm and 77kg ready to ride.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Identical to mine.


Great minds think alike!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Great minds think alike!


Thanks, but hardly. More like I got lucky making a decision or two with my simple little linear thinking mind. That said, I suspect our cockpit dimensions may be among the most common, so not all that shocking. Lol.

I am surprised we have not crossed paths on the trail. I have not seen a single Druid in my travels. I have had lots of guys approach me on the trail about mine though.

Anyway, great to cross cyber paths at least.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks, but hardly. More like I got lucky making a decision or two with my simple little linear thinking mind. That said, I suspect our cockpit dimensions may be among the most common, so not all that shocking. Lol.
> 
> I am surprised we have not crossed paths on the trail. I have not seen a single Druid in my travels. I have had lots of guys approach me on the trail about mine though.
> 
> Anyway, great to cross cyber paths at least.


The only other Druid I've seen on the trails was Dave Harder's on my first or second ride in Kimberley. Other than that, I got 1 hot lap on Sulphur/Pneuma/7-27 just before the October snow hit, which would explain why we haven't crossed paths. I'm sure we'll bump into each other on the Husky road come spring or the next major Chinook. :cornut:


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> The only other Druid I've seen on the trails was Dave Harder's on my first or second ride in Kimberley. Other than that, I got 1 hot lap on Sulphur/Pneuma/7-27 just before the October snow hit, which would explain why we haven't crossed paths. I'm sure we'll bump into each other on the Husky road come spring or the next major Chinook. :cornut:


I was going to PM you but maybe others may be interested in your thoughts as well.

What fork are you running? I'm running a 150 Factory 36 with a FIT4 damper, that was originally a 140. The thing absolutely shreds but I am wondering whether I could up its game even further with a GRIP2 damper. It won't be inexpensive and I really question whether it would be worth it.

Also, any thought of throwing down on an 11-6 when it comes out?

To be perfectly honest, I don't know how much room there is for my bike, as it stands, to improve. It may just be a matter of throwing money at it for no good reason.

I should probably just leave it and enjoy it, as I have been. Dammit though, there is a little voice inside urging me to go the distance. My GF is no help - she is pushing hard for me to make this my ultimate bike, no holds barred.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

Eleven six for Druid has been already released  Also they have a 35% discount to their products since yesterday ( not sure if the Druid coil is included though)


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I was going to PM you but maybe others may be interested in your thoughts as well.
> 
> What fork are you running? I'm running a 150 Factory 36 with a FIT4 damper, that was originally a 140. The thing absolutely shreds but I am wondering whether I could up its game even further with a GRIP2 damper. It won't be inexpensive and I really question whether it would be worth it.
> 
> ...


I have a [2020?] Rock Shox Pike Ultimate 140. I had enough bad experiences with RS products in the past that I hadn't been on one in quite a few years. Even the 2019 Pike on my hardtail was uninspiring, so I wasn't originally looking at the Pike/Lyrik when I was selecting parts for the Druid. However, the new damper in the Ultimate was getting rave reviews, as RS had designed the fork for a bit more forgiveness on rougher rides, something that my creaking joints might appreciate. At my weight of 170#, the Pike is pretty much spot on. The Pike has softer damping and a bigger negative air chamber than the 36, in both FIT4 and GRIP2 versions. For me, this means more control and less fatigue. The only downside of the fork so far is the travel: at 140mm I'm snagging my pedals on things I normally wouldn't hit. I adjusted my timing a bit to compensate, but I have a 150mm air shaft that I might drop in instead to raise the BB just a hair. Also, because MOAR TRAVELS.

FIT4 vs. GRIP2 comes down to how much knob twiddling you like to do. They're both top-quality dampers, but the GRIP2 definitely has more adjustability. I think you mentioned that you're over 200#, so you're well within the range of the HSC/LSC of the GRIP2 - it will be easy to tune the fork to be as plush or as firm as you want, although there's no firm/trail/open switch if you like to change things on the fly. Honestly, I wouldn't spend my money on the GRIP2 if I already had the FIT4, but if you want to make it the ultimate bike, why not go for it? I'd add the Luftkappe while you're at it. SO SUPPLE.

The 11-6 looks very cool. If you're finding that the stock shock is too progressive, going to a coil makes perfect sense. I'd also look at the DHX2 and the DVO Jade [not sure if DVO offers something the right size].


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> I have a [2020?] Rock Shox Pike Ultimate 140. I had enough bad experiences with RS products in the past that I hadn't been on one in quite a few years. Even the 2019 Pike on my hardtail was uninspiring, so I wasn't originally looking at the Pike/Lyrik when I was selecting parts for the Druid. However, the new damper in the Ultimate was getting rave reviews, as RS had designed the fork for a bit more forgiveness on rougher rides, something that my creaking joints might appreciate. At my weight of 170#, the Pike is pretty much spot on. The Pike has softer damping and a bigger negative air chamber than the 36, in both FIT4 and GRIP2 versions. For me, this means more control and less fatigue. The only downside of the fork so far is the travel: at 140mm I'm snagging my pedals on things I normally wouldn't hit. I adjusted my timing a bit to compensate, but I have a 150mm air shaft that I might drop in instead to raise the BB just a hair. Also, because MOAR TRAVELS.
> 
> FIT4 vs. GRIP2 comes down to how much knob twiddling you like to do. They're both top-quality dampers, but the GRIP2 definitely has more adjustability. I think you mentioned that you're over 200#, so you're well within the range of the HSC/LSC of the GRIP2 - it will be easy to tune the fork to be as plush or as firm as you want, although there's no firm/trail/open switch if you like to change things on the fly. Honestly, I wouldn't spend my money on the GRIP2 if I already had the FIT4, but if you want to make it the ultimate bike, why not go for it? I'd add the Luftkappe while you're at it. SO SUPPLE.
> 
> The 11-6 looks very cool. If you're finding that the stock shock is too progressive, going to a coil makes perfect sense. I'd also look at the DHX2 and the DVO Jade [not sure if DVO offers something the right size].


Thanks. 185 out of the shower (pardon the visual).

Sounds like I should just leave things. I can't imagine it getting any better than it already is.

Thanks. Have a great weekend.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Mailed Forbidden a few days ago to see if I can pre order a XL Druid, I know that a few stores have done that. I thought about going through one of the 4 store's but then I have to pay shipping and in Canada shipping is ****ing insane. Forbidden has free shipping in Canada.

I have yet to hear from them, I want to make sure I get one since they have not been really communicating if there is a limit on how many frames they have coming in the first week of December.

Anyone else try to contact them about that?


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Hey everyone, thanks for listening to and answering my questions. I think I'm going to go for a Hightower. If there is anyone that knows the forbidden ppl, they might feedback that the reason, in its entirety, has been their slow responses to attempts to get in touch (mine and others) and their response to the bearing issue. As a new company whose first bike is 4k for the frame alone they have to be over the top with service, and they aren't. The chance of them going under is high to begin with, and a lot higher if they aren't able to stand behind their product. This is too similar to the early evil days.

Hope everyone enjoys their bikes, I'm a bit jealous, but can't afford to have a frame fail without support.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I demoed a Hightower...


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I demoed a Hightower...


So did I, along with the new TB4. I find Santa Cruz has always been conservative in their bike geo up til now. The new stuff is more modern and I do love the shock placement and how it makes the bike sit better in the travel.

I always like stuff a little different, but much like Mgrantorser, I do have reservations about getting something from a company so new. As well, the no response when you try to contact does not fill me with confidence. Especially if I am going to drop 4 grand with them. That being said, all the reviews of the frame are excellent. I have yet to read where anyone has actually broken one. Seeing how someone reacts to a warranty claim is also important in my books.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Mgrantorser said:


> ... but can't afford to have a frame fail without support.


That's a completely reasonable perspective. I lost a small, but vital part of my Knolly's suspension recently. That sucked because I had torn apart my "summer" bike to send its suspension away for service and I had some riding coming up that was important to me I didn't want to miss.

This happened on a Friday and I checked the Knolly webstore, but the part was shown as sold out. I called and they tracked down the part I was missing as well as a spare to send me. If I had called from the trailhead an hour earlier instead of waiting until I got home they would have sent it out same day. Instead they offered to let me pick up the part directly from them if I was on the mainland [I live on an island off shore] and when that didn't work shipped it to me Monday. That got me riding with minimal delay.

I sometimes find myself on small/niche company websites [lots of cool European ones!] and get excited about sweet exotic bikes. Incidents like this remind me why dealing a company that has great customer service and can get things to me fast is important. I'd hate to miss important rides or be on a road trip and have to rent a bike because something failed and I couldn't get fast support.

Both my main bikes come from smaller companies [Knolly and Guerrilla Gravity], but the CS experience with both is pretty legendary. :thumbsup:

I wouldn't write off Forbidden in that they are a really new company and probably understaffed, but I can understand wanting to wait until they get their operations dialed and you get the confidence they'll be around long enough to support your bike for the long-term before spending $$$$. I hope Forbidden ends up super successful. It would be cool to have a Vancouver Island based bike company.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Yeah, I'll definitely keep an eye on them, and would consider them for my next bike. That said, the whole, theyre new so they're understaffed doesn't really fly. Weareone is also very new, and provides excellent cs. To me it speaks to it not being a priority, or the owner not living attached to the business (something that, in my mind, increase the chance of failure). Anyhow, hope everyone enjoys their bikes!


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Mgrantorser said:


> That said, the whole, theyre new so they're understaffed doesn't really fly.


I'm not excusing it at all. Every bike I own is from a company with amazing CS. That's not an accident.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vikb said:


> I'm not excusing it at all. Every bike I own is from a company with amazing CS. That's not an accident.


Yeah. Good for you.

Back to some positivity, for anyone who might be interested, I see that Push now has the 11-6 available for the Druid, and that it is "on sale" for $780 USD, down from the rather staggering MSRP of $1200. For the CDNs in the crowd, I have an email in to Suspensionwerx to see what this sale equates to in CDN dollars, if one orders from them.

I had kinda abandoned the whole bespoke suspension thing given that there really is nothing more I could ask for from my Druid, but this has me thinking about it once again. I think I am going to hold tight with my Fox set up, but if anyone is thinking about throwing down on an 11-6, now is the time.


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Yeah. Good for you.
> 
> Back to some positivity, for anyone who might be interested, I see that Push now has the 11-6 available for the Druid, and that it is "on sale" for $780 USD, down from the rather staggering MSRP of $1200. For the CDNs in the crowd, I have an email in to Suspensionwerx to see what this sale equates to in CDN dollars, if one orders from them.
> 
> I had kinda abandoned the whole bespoke suspension thing given that there really is nothing more I could ask for from my Druid, but this has me thinking about it once again. I think I am going to hold tight with my Fox set up, but if anyone is thinking about throwing down on an 11-6, now is the time.


For what it's worth I've had pretty good luck with the crew at Forbidden. They've gotten back to all my emails within a day and have helped me through a few minor issues.

Just pulled the trigger on an 11-6. That's the best price I've ever seen for that particular shock brand new. Will report back once I get a few rides on it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

monkeyboyjong said:


> For what it's worth I've had pretty good luck with the crew at Forbidden. They've gotten back to all my emails within a day and have helped me through a few minor issues.
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on an 11-6. That's the best price I've ever seen for that particular shock brand new. Will report back once I get a few rides on it.


Absolutely awesome. Congrats. I may do the same once I hear back from Suspensionwerx. If I do, I will also go for the ACS3 coil kit. Wtf. Likely not though. My Druid as it sits does not disappoint.

Re the Forbidden CS, I shouldn't complain so much. The only real reason I notice it is because this is the first direct purchase bike I have bought. Normally my LBS takes care of me for every single issue. In the grand scheme of things, any shortcomings for me have really been of the first world problem variety.

In the end, the bike slays. I could not possibly ask for more from it.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Hi Guys, Owen here from Forbidden. Apologies, I had tried to join in on this discussion last week but it took nearly a week for a moderator to approve our account... :madman:

Anyway, I would like to address some of the concerns regarding our customer service. Firstly yes we are a small team, very much understaffed, but that is not an excuse. We should be answering all of your questions and queries in a timely manner. We are looking into this and will endeavor to improve that side of our business moving forward!

Concerning our warranty and in-service support, it was a personal goal of mine when we started this brand to ensure that we do the right thing by our customers. We started out by developing the best product that we could, and we take pride in the fact that we chose our manufacturing partners with a priority on quality rather than price. This goes a long way to ensuring that we minimize the chances of warranty issues and in-service problems. That being said we know that things can, and will, happen that we haven't anticipated. To that end we pledge to hold good stock of all frame parts, so, if the worst does happen, we can get you guys back on the trails as fast as possible! After all that is the most important thing!



mtnbkrmike said:


> Re the Forbidden CS, I shouldn't complain so much. The only real reason I notice it is because this is the first direct purchase bike I have bought. Normally my LBS takes care of me for every single issue. In the grand scheme of things, any shortcomings for me have really been of the first world problem variety.
> 
> In the end, the bike slays. I could not possibly ask for more from it.


I'm embarrassed by the way your issue with the idler pulley bearing was handled and I apologize. We do view bearings as a wear item, they do not have an infinite life, however they should not fail so quickly. We have seen some pulley's where the bearing bore has been a little tight and this could cause a premature bearing failure. We have since modified the bore tolerance to eliminate this from happening. Moving forward we have also improved the tooth profile to work better with Shimano 12spd and have changed the surface coating. We will be landing stock of the improved pulleys in a few weeks and, as I would guess your pulley may have had a tight bore, I would be happy to send you one of the new ones FOC. Please drop us a DM or an email to [email protected] and we'll make sure it happens.

From now on I will try to drop in here from time to time and join in the discussions. I can try to address any queries you have, and in particular if any of you have any tech questions I'm always happy to get nerdy. It will be a welcome break from staring at my CAD screen!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hi Guys, Owen here from Forbidden. Apologies, I had tried to join in on this discussion last week but it took nearly a week for a moderator to approve our account... :madman:
> 
> Anyway, I would like to address some of the concerns regarding our customer service. Firstly yes we are a small team, very much understaffed, but that is not an excuse. We should be answering all of your questions and queries in a timely manner. We are looking into this and will endeavor to improve that side of our business moving forward!
> 
> ...


Wow. This is really embarrassing and awkward. I am very sorry for having caused this. I hope you can find the good in my posts above because after spending an unspeakable amount over the years hunting for "the one", I feel as though I have finally found it with the Druid.

As for the customer service thing, as a silver lining, my idler pulley issue prompted me to reach out to Cam and Zach at The Inside Line in Calgary. They very competently took care of things and we have begun what I hope will be a long, mutually beneficial relationship.

*super embarrassed at my end*

Sorry again Owen, but thank you very much for wading in.

Mike


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Wow. This is really embarrassing and awkward. I am very sorry for having caused this. I hope you can find the good in my posts above because after spending a total of 6 figures over the years hunting for "the one", I finally found it with the Druid.
> 
> As for the customer service thing, as a silver lining, my idler pulley issue prompted me to reach out to Cam and Zach at The Inside Line in Calgary. They very competently took care of things and we have begun what I hope will be a long, mutually beneficial relationship.
> 
> ...


No need to apologize Mike, it is us that need to own this!

Yes, we're stoked to have Cam at Inside Line on board with us. You're in good hands there!

I'm also extremely glad to hear you consider your Druid as your "the one". It means we must be getting some things right!

Thanks for the support!


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hi Guys, Owen here from Forbidden. Apologies, I had tried to join in on this discussion last week but it took nearly a week for a moderator to approve our account... :madman:
> 
> Anyway, I would like to address some of the concerns regarding our customer service. Firstly yes we are a small team, very much understaffed, but that is not an excuse. We should be answering all of your questions and queries in a timely manner. We are looking into this and will endeavor to improve that side of our business moving forward!
> 
> ...


Hey Owen, are all the new stuff (xl) going to have the improved pulley and improved tooth profile that works with shimano 12 speed drivetrains?

Thanks,

Dave


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> It will be a welcome break from staring at my CAD screen!


OH, and what might you be working on? A 160mm 29er perhaps I actually hope for 150 but I get that's too close to the Druid.

Please maintain a high standard of CS. In this day and age it shocks me how poor CS from brands (cough, Yeti and Pole) can be and how it ultimately affects my/our buying decision. The Druid seems Rad and I hope to see more reviews in the near future.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

depeche4 said:


> Hey Owen, are all the new stuff (xl) going to have the improved pulley and improved tooth profile that works with shimano 12 speed drivetrains?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave


Hi Dave, Yes all frames from the next batch (mid December arrival), onward will have the improved pulley design. To be clear though, the current pulley does work with Shimano 12spd but now that we have had our hands on the groupsets for some time we have managed to optimize the tooth profile a little.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

robnow said:


> OH, and what might you be working on? A 160mm 29er perhaps I actually hope for 150 but I get that's too close to the Druid.
> 
> Please maintain a high standard of CS. In this day and age it shocks me how poor CS from brands (cough, Yeti and Pole) can be and how it ultimately affects my/our buying decision. The Druid seems Rad and I hope to see more reviews in the near future.


I knew someone would ask. If I told you I would have to kill you..

We hear you on the standard of CS these days, I hope we can manage a high standard as we grow. It will be a challenge, but we like those.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Not sure if this is an opportunity to ask questions, but if it is, was the Druid linkage designed around a certain size chainring (for example, a 30 tooth)? Just wondering whether there is an optimal size ring in terms of your intended anti-squat, etc.

Also, any comments, good or bad, about using an 11-6 on the Druid? For those of us who have been on the fence, now is the time to buy an 11-6 given that they are "on sale" for 35% off MSRP. Any comments, good, bad or indifferent, would be appreciated. 

Thanks.


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## csm024 (Jul 1, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not sure if this is an opportunity to ask questions, but if it is, was the Druid linkage designed around a certain size chainring (for example, a 30 tooth)? Just wondering whether there is an optimal size ring in terms of your intended anti-squat, etc.
> 
> Also, any comments, good or bad, about using an 11-6 on the Druid? For those of us who have been on the fence, now is the time to buy an 11-6 given that they are "on sale" for 35% off MSRP. Any comments, good, bad or indifferent, would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks.


I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

csm024 said:


> I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.


Nice. Where do you feel the benefits are? I assume it maintains even better traction over the rough stuff at the expense of a small amount of pop?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

csm024 said:


> I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.


Thank you. What fork are you running?


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

MarcusBrody said:


> Nice. Where do you feel the benefits are? I assume it maintains even better traction over the rough stuff at the expense of a small amount of pop?


I was also about to pull trigger on an 11/6 so information is helpful to me as well. Any comments on the difficulty to adjust the rebound due to the placement?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

csm024 said:


> I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.


Nice! Could you qualify what you like better with the 11-6? Also, any downsides?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We hear you on the standard of CS these days, I hope we can manage a high standard as we grow. It will be a challenge, but we like those.


Very cool and encouraging that Forbidden is now engaging in this forum. I've been in customer support operations for over 20 years (granted in a healthcare tech, which has its extra challenges), but setting up and maintaining world class customer support is tough and it takes time. In my opinion, it's a bigger challenge than developing and releasing first class products. In the end it will make or break any customer/brand loyalty. Wishing Forbidden all the best ...especially now that all components have arrived to build up my Druid frame .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## csm024 (Jul 1, 2011)

fizzywater said:


> Nice! Could you qualify what you like better with the 11-6? Also, any downsides?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Better tracking, and helps with the bigger hits a bit. My experience matches what is shown in the suspension charts posted by forbidden, in that the druid is pretty progressive and has a good pedal platform. The 11-6 adds a bit more compliance to the small chatter (the flip side of more anti-squat) giving a bit more of a stable ride at speed over rough terrain. Downside is it's heavier and is less adjustable than air, but with a few tweaks I've been happy with push's suggested settings.

@KineticFear, the rebound placement sucks. But you can still reach it.


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## csm024 (Jul 1, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thank you. What fork are you running?


RS Yari with avalanche damper.


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## csm024 (Jul 1, 2011)

MarcusBrody said:


> Nice. Where do you feel the benefits are? I assume it maintains even better traction over the rough stuff at the expense of a small amount of pop?


@MarcusBrody, yeah, bit less "pop" than air shock, but that's inherent in any coil. As the druid is only 130mm of travel, however, you don't really have so much travel that the bike wallows in the mid-stroke with the coil (plus, as push sets up the 11-6 most of the way for you, it's set to be able to pedal and descend pretty well out of the box). I run the rebound a bit faster on coil than I do with air, so the end result of how poppy the bike is ends up about the same.


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

csm024 said:


> @MarcusBrody, yeah, bit less "pop" than air shock, but that's inherent in any coil. As the druid is only 130mm of travel, however, you don't really have so much travel that the bike wallows in the mid-stroke with the coil (plus, as push sets up the 11-6 most of the way for you, it's set to be able to pedal and descend pretty well out of the box). I run the rebound a bit faster on coil than I do with air, so the end result of how poppy the bike is ends up about the same.


Thanks for this! My one worry about the Druid is its potential poppiness vs. something like a Ripmo or Optic (esp. as at 190cm I'd be on the XL with its 450mm chainstays), so I guess if I go Forbidden's direction I should probably stick with air. That 11-6 sure looks sweet though.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Wanted to offer an update on my Druid. I now have 10 rides on the bike, my typical marker for when I assess how it ''really rides''. In short, it really rides awesome. The first thing I noticed with the bike is how well it fits me, I was comfortable on it within the first few minutes of the first ride. Frame appearance, fit and finish is stellar, far better than the Evils I owned previously and on par with my last bike, a Knolly. 

Climbing: some pedal bob when you look at the shock that isn't noticeable to me when riding. I leave the shock full open except for very long uphill slogs. Technical climbing/traction is astounding, best I've ever used. 

Trail/flat: the bike is longer and you do feel it on tighter/flatter stuff but this bike does perfectly fine on trail riding. No complaints. 

Flow/jump descending: suprisingly poppy given the suspension design. Far better than my old guerilla gravity smash with 11.6 shock, slightly better than the Knolly Fugitive, not quite as good as my old Evils. Very composed jumping. Corners very naturally. 

Tech/gnar descending: amazing. My third ride on the bike was on a DH trail at a local bike park that had hosted a race the weekend prior. The track was the roughest, most blown out I've ever seen it, but you'd have never known it from how the bike handled. Similar to my GG Smash on that trail when it was freshly maintained. Can't overstate how immediately noticeable and good this part is. 


Overall very stoked on this bike, zero complaints thus far. I probably need a larger volume spacer in the fox shock, though that 11.6 deal has me eyeing one to try it out!


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Hey all, not exactly the right place, but weareone has wheels 15% off this week if anyone is doing a build next year. Code is 15OFF2019


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> I knew someone would ask. If I told you I would have to kill you..
> 
> We hear you on the standard of CS these days, I hope we can manage a high standard as we grow. It will be a challenge, but we like those.





fizzywater said:


> Very cool and encouraging that Forbidden is now engaging in this forum. I've been in customer support operations for over 20 years (granted in a healthcare tech, which has its extra challenges), but setting up and maintaining world class customer support is tough and it takes time. In my opinion, it's a bigger challenge than developing and releasing first class products. In the end it will make or break any customer/brand loyalty. Wishing Forbidden all the best ...especially now that all components have arrived to build up my Druid frame .
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Forbidden has gotten my attention for sure. If a company can build a rig that'll impress a picky SOB like mtnbkrmike and keep him stoked, thats good enough for me.

I already jumped the kona ship for (the other) high pivot on my enduro/park rig but eyeing a druid for trailbike duty.

Keep up the good work boys!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Forbidden has gotten my attention for sure. If a company can build a rig that'll impress a picky SOB like mtnbkrmike and keep him stoked, thats good enough for me.
> 
> I already jumped the kona ship for (the other) high pivot on my enduro/park rig but eyeing a druid for trailbike duty.
> 
> Keep up the good work boys!


Bahahaha! Hilarious.

I was struggling so badly with whether to buy an 11-6 for the "discounted" Black Friday "sale" price. Agonizing over it. I wanted to, but the ass end of that Druid is incredible, as is. Even for a picky SOB like me. It's my fork that needs help. I think I will direct my focus there.

There really is nothing about the shock setup on that bike that I dislike. Well, except listening to it squeak, which is like Chinese water torture. On a positive note, the DPX2 squeaks intermittently and when it does, it's a reminder of how active the linkage is.

It really is an interesting, beautiful, unique, fun bike.

It's calling your name Marcus. Can you hear it?


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

I ended up getting an 11-6 on the sale price. I had one sitting around from one of my old bikes that I wanted to get converted. Conversion price per Push would be $550 due to needing the side-stack design and changing length of the shock. With the sale price at $750 and now being able to sell my old one as is, it works out to at worst $300 for a 11-6 shock. I'll take it!


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Anybody have FloatX2 settings to share?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> Anybody have FloatX2 settings to share?


I still have the stock DPX2.

Can you and others advise why you went with a different shock? What did you find lacking with the DPX2?

I ride much more on my hardtail so when I ride my Druid, it feels magical.

Interested though to hear what would prompt a significant cash outlay for a solution to a problem that does not appear to exist (for me, at least).

Is it simply a matter of the never ending search for the absolute best?


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

What size spacer is in the DPX 2? I am assuming it is the 0.86 inch one.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

.2 spacer


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

YogiKudo said:


> .2 spacer


Wow, I am surprised it is the smallest. I guess I am buying the spacer kit. Anyone else change the spacer in the dpx 2?


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

depeche4 said:


> Wow, I am surprised it is the smallest. I guess I am buying the spacer kit. Anyone else change the spacer in the dpx 2?


I actually found it worked the best with higher pressure and no spacers. Test it out for yourself.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I still have the stock DPX2.
> 
> Can you and others advise why you went with a different shock? What did you find lacking with the DPX2?
> 
> ...


I had an 11-6 on a previous bike that totally transformed the ride quality. I wanted to try a coil on this bike and couldn't pass up the sale price


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I still have the stock DPX2.
> 
> Can you and others advise why you went with a different shock? What did you find lacking with the DPX2?
> 
> ...


The DPX2 just feels "wound-up" or "tight" - really makes the bike super poppy. I want a little more suppleness off the top.

Am still considering the 11-6 too...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Ok guys. I couldn’t stand it. I had to get in on the 11-6 madness. 

Woohoo!

Next...my fork, which is where the real work is going to have to be done...

I will put some inquiries and a request for suggestions into a separate post, which will take me a while to draft.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

If anyone has any suggestions for my fork, I would appreciate it.

It’s a 2018 Factory 36 With a Fit4 damper that I am running at 150mm. It’s harsh to the point of hurting my hands after 2 or more hours of riding. 

Options (so far):

1. Replace the Fit4 damper with a Grip2 and install a Vorsprung Luftkappe.
2. Keep the Fit4 and get a Vorsprung Fractive tune.
3. Keep the Fit4 and get a Push tune.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Mike


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> If anyone has any suggestions for my fork, I would appreciate it.
> 
> It's a 2018 Factory 36 With a Fit4 damper that I am running at 150mm. It's harsh to the point of hurting my hands after 2 or more hours of riding.
> 
> ...


Mike,

the Luftkappe is the best bang for the buck. Two of my buddies put them in (one Pike one 36) and they loved it.
To get it Pushed is not cheap. For that you are almost better to find someone who had it done already and is flipping the fork.

dave


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

#1 Vorsprung Smashpot #2 PUSH ACS3. I like the Smashpot as it uses fluid as opposed to an air cartridge to give you bottom-out control . I believe there are 16 clicks of adjustment. However, there is 100 ml of fluid on the former air side making it heavier than the ACS3 from PUSH which is also excellent. PUSH only requires 20 ml. They both work well with the 11.6 which kicks a........ J


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

+1 Grip2 / Luftkappe


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## monkeyboyjong (Feb 23, 2009)

Took the Druid to Moab this weekend. The weather was not ideal but managed to squeak out rides on Slickrock and Captain Ahab. It feels like this bike was purpose built for the terrain down there, especially on the ledges on Ahab. The rear feels so smooth climbing up and over stuff and it feels very planted and safe doing all kinds of stupid **** descending. 

Mtnbikrmike, I had a 36 fit 4 damper and felt the same thing. Sent it to push to tune and added an ACS 3 kit. It is a little pricey but the fork rode great after.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

+1 Grip2 / Luftkappe


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Who here has tried the Druid with a 160 fork? Just read an article about one with a 160. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Saw this come across the feed today:

https://spokemagazine.com/content/forbidden-druid-review


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

AKRCD47 said:


> Who here has tried the Druid with a 160 fork? Just read an article about one with a 160.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine is at 160. I have a long inseam so my saddle height is still relatively higher than my front end so the front end does not wander. J


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

BikeMag Review:

https://www.bikemag.com/gear/mountain-bikes/tested-forbidden-druid


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## ctw55 (Apr 19, 2013)

Subscribed


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

rpearce1475 said:


> Wanted to offer an update on my Druid. I now have 10 rides on the bike, my typical marker for when I assess how it ''really rides''. In short, it really rides awesome. The first thing I noticed with the bike is how well it fits me, I was comfortable on it within the first few minutes of the first ride. Frame appearance, fit and finish is stellar, far better than the Evils I owned previously and on par with my last bike, a Knolly.
> 
> Climbing: some pedal bob when you look at the shock that isn't noticeable to me when riding. I leave the shock full open except for very long uphill slogs. Technical climbing/traction is astounding, best I've ever used.
> 
> ...


Hey, I'm about to order one of these suckers as soon as they are back in stock. but How tall are you? and what size frame are you on? Any chance you've ridden an Ibis Ripmo? I'm struggling to figure out what they bike may feel like.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

I'm 5'11" on a size L, fits great. Prior bikes were GG Smash medium and Knolly Fugitive medium. L on this bike is very comfortable to me. I've swung a leg over a Ripmo but never actually ridden it


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> I am 6 foot but am waiting for the xl. With this size the reach is 485 with a 150 mm fork. This is not that big considering I am coming off a XL santa cruz TB3 (480 reach) with a 50 mm stem and a Pole 158 L (510 reach) with a 30 mm stem.
> 
> I prefer a bit of a larger bike and run a smaller stem. People like smaller bikes because they find them flick-able but I wanted a bike like that I would buy a nice dirt jumper and not a high end trail bike.
> 
> Anyone here the date that the XL frame is in stock?


I'm 5'11" and ride a TB3 (XL) currently. I also liked the XL in the 2020 TB4 and 2018 HTLT. Like you, I prefer a bit of a larger bike and run a smaller stem.

I've been reading a ton of posts and can't be sure if you pulled the trigger on an XL or not?

I plan on getting to BC again next year so I'm hoping I can get a leg over one while there. However, if I don't make it up, I'm thinking of just winging it and buying an XL frame; assuming I read enough info that makes me feel comfortable enough to pull the trigger.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

woodchips said:


> I'm 5'11" and ride a TB3 (XL) currently. I also liked the XL in the 2020 TB4 and 2018 HTLT. Like you, I prefer a bit of a larger bike and run a smaller stem.
> 
> I've been reading a ton of posts and can't be sure if you pulled the trigger on an XL or not?
> 
> I plan on getting to BC again next year so I'm hoping I can get a leg over one while there. However, if I don't make it up, I'm thinking of just winging it and buying an XL frame; assuming I read enough info that makes me feel comfortable enough to pull the trigger.


It is the availability of frames that might be an issue. Better to talk to a store and see if they are allocated a XL frame, that is what I did to make sure I get one.


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> It is the availability of frames that might be an issue. Better to talk to a store and see if they are allocated a XL frame, that is what I did to make sure I get one.


My concern is about fit, not availability. Sorry, that wasn't clear, but, thanks, nonetheless; apparently, you did pull the trigger on an XL.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

FWIW, I am 5'10.5" with a 34" inseam and ride a large Druid. I like big frames. My large Honzo and Unit are massive, yet I don't think I would go for an XL Druid. I can't be anymore conclusive because I haven't ridden an XL. Who knows if I did. I have no desire to check one out though.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Another option to the Push 11-6 is a Rockshox Super Deluxe Coil with Vorsprungs tractive tuning. I just got mine back and it feels amazing just with all the settings set in the middle, the shim stack is lightened up quite a bit to a point where I can run a more normal spring rate, 400 vs 350. The leverage ratio on these bikes requires a pretty light spring rate which isnt a bad thing but custom tuning is something that is awesome for anyone on here buying a 3K frame. I got an HC97 in my fork, custom tuned Super Deluxe Coil all for 700$, when its time to rebuild the rear shock just send it to a Vorsprung dealer and for a little bit extra you have a custom tuned shock. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> Another option to the Push 11-6 is a Rockshox Super Deluxe Coil with Vorsprungs tractive tuning. I just got mine back and it feels amazing just with all the settings set in the middle, the shim stack is lightened up quite a bit to a point where I can run a more normal spring rate, 400 vs 350. The leverage ratio on these bikes requires a pretty light spring rate which isnt a bad thing but custom tuning is something that is awesome for anyone on here buying a 3K frame. I got an HC97 in my fork, custom tuned Super Deluxe Coil all for 700$, when its time to rebuild the rear shock just send it to a Vorsprung dealer and for a little bit extra you have a custom tuned shock.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice!!!

I am still a couple of weeks away from getting my 11-6.

Think I am going to go with the Grip2/Luftkappe option for the fork, and see how that turns out.


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm 5'10.5" tall. 34 inch inseam. 35 inch sleeve length. 185 pounds.
> 
> My large is great. No complaints. That said, I could never ride a medium, and *I might prefer an XL*. The L is as small as I would ever want to go. But *I could go bigger for sure*.
> 
> ...





mtnbkrmike said:


> FWIW, I am 5'10.5" with a 34" inseam and ride a large Druid. I like big frames. My large Honzo and Unit are massive, yet *I don't think I would go for an XL* Druid. I can't be anymore conclusive because I haven't ridden an XL. Who knows if I did. I have no desire to check one out though.


Thanks.

Do you mind elaborating a bit more? If not, no worries.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

woodchips said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Do you mind elaborating a bit more? If not, no worries.


Oh wow. That's really horrible.

I will try to respond to this as soon as I have a minute. For now, sincere apologies for my wishy-washiness and any confusion I have created as a result.

EDIT: I guess it depends how I feel at any given time. And apparently that is not a static thing. 

I would say this...

I like a big stack. Always have, always will. I also like a bit of reach. But mostly it's stack that I crave. 

On the other hand, my Druid corners like it's on rails and I have never once felt my sphincter pucker in any steep jank. 

I guess in the end I am happy with the compromise and would be concerned that I might lose a bit of the magic in its cornering ability, as well as some of its poppiness, going to an XL.

As an aside, I sure do hope the 11-6 is not going to screw me on poppiness. On a continuum, I would not put the Druid near the extreme poppy end of the spectrum, even with the stock DPX2. Others may disagree. It may also be how I have my suspension set up. 

It would be nice to try an XL. I likely will in the spring, provided my local Forbidden dealer has any left. 

Who knows? But I am not currently thinking I bought the wrong frame size with a large. 

I like the large, and suspect that the XL for me would have much more of a monster truck feel, which could be fun as well. Hey - maybe I need an XL in addition to my L...

I kid. I kid.

In the end, I would probably like both for different reasons. I do not think I would enjoy a medium nearly as much, and I suspect I would prefer the large over the XL in the end.

Probably just a bunch more wishy-washiness and inconsistencies in there (as well as incorrect usage of apostrophes, commas and other unspeakable atrocities) but I don't have time to wordsmith it.

Re-reading this, I think I may have actually increased the confusion.

TL; DR version: a M would almost certainly be too tight for me, and an XL may be too much of a ground hugging, straightlining missile (but I don't know because I haven't ridden one). The L, with a tiny bit more rise, would be perfect. After typing all this, I may throw down on a 30-40 mm rise bar. My daughter is looking for gifts to buy me. I think I can help her out.

Time to do my letter to Santa...


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

woodchips said:


> My concern is about fit, not availability. Sorry, that wasn't clear, but, thanks, nonetheless; apparently, you did pull the trigger on an XL.





mtnbkrmike said:


> FWIW, I am 5'10.5" with a 34" inseam and ride a large Druid. I like big frames. My large Honzo and Unit are massive, yet I don't think I would go for an XL Druid. I can't be anymore conclusive because I haven't ridden an XL. Who knows if I did. I have no desire to check one out though.


I don't want to throw either of you two too much shade but you're both on the lower end of the scale for a large frame. The Druid size chart shows a scale of 5'10"-6'2" for large frames. What makes you think an XL is even an option? I realize the reach numbers are a hair low for each given frame size but the wb numbers are long and the rearward axle path will make the bike feel potentially even longer. Not trying to start a size war. Just curious what you're thinking.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jwick said:


> I don't want to throw either of you two too much shade but you're both on the lower end of the scale for a large frame. The Druid size chart shows a scale of 5'10"-6'2" for large frames. What makes you think an XL is even an option? I realize the reach numbers are a hair low for each given frame size but the wb numbers are long and the rearward axle path will make the bike feel potentially even longer. Not trying to start a size war. Just curious what you're thinking.


I own a large. I have owned in excess of 2 dozen bikes. I know what I like. That may or may not be consistent with someone else's suggested size chart. I think both the large and XL would work great for me. The medium would not. Other guys my size, including perhaps the chart-maker, may disagree.


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I own a large. I have owned in excess of 2 dozen bikes. I know what I like. That may or may not be consistent with someone else's suggested size chart. I think both the large and XL would work great for me. The medium would not. Other guys my size, including perhaps the chart-maker, may disagree.


Cool. Thanks. Truly just curious. I'm 6'4" and find my fit window closer to the smaller end of the spectrum for my height. I trend towards an XL even if an XXL is available for any given frame. To each their own. My local trails dictate this as well for sure. Long WB is a pita for slow tech.


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice!!!
> 
> I am still a couple of weeks away from getting my 11-6.
> 
> Think I am going to go with the Grip2/Luftkappe option for the fork, and see how that turns out.


The PUSH 11-6 sale is calling to me as well. I believe it would be great to try on the Druid based on other observations with the DPX2. However, the DPX2 works well. Curious why you went for this? Haha I need some nudging!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> The PUSH 11-6 sale is calling to me as well. I believe it would be great to try on the Druid based on other observations with the DPX2. However, the DPX2 works well. Curious why you went for this? Haha I need some nudging!


The DPX2 on the Druid kicks major ass. There is no question. Nonetheless, I went for the 11-6 for a few reasons:

1. I have wanted to buy an 11-6 for years now. I almost previously threw down on one a few times now, even at full pop.

2. At 40% off, it was too much to resist. I can try it and even if I don't like it, I can sell it for not much less than what I paid for it.

3. My GF is a mystical soul who reminds me of the person on my Forbidden t-shirt.









When she tells me to do something, I usually just do it, on the premise that, well, she just knows. She urged me to get the Druid, and now the 11-6. I followed her commands.

4. I know a few people who have 11-6s, including the co-inventor of VPP suspension (and former co-owner of Outland bikes). Each of them say it completely transformed their bike.

5. The crowning blow was that the DPX2 made an irritating squeaking noise I could never solve. The air can was taken apart twice, and I was using WPL shock lube on the stanchion, to no avail. It was intermittent but when it was there, it really bothered me.

Do I need the 11-6? Absolutely not. The Druid is magical, as is. But at the current pricing, I thought it was too good to pass up.

Honestly, I see little downside, even if you hate it. I would jump on it while you still can. I thought I missed out because of my hesitation and almost threw up I felt so bad about it. For me, it's a no-brainer, regardless of the fact that the DPX2 kicks serious ass.


----------



## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

jwick said:


> I don't want to throw either of you two too much shade but you're both on the lower end of the scale for a large frame. The Druid size chart shows a scale of 5'10"-6'2" for large frames. *What makes you think an XL is even an option?* I realize the reach numbers are a hair low for each given frame size but the wb numbers are long and the rearward axle path will make the bike feel potentially even longer. Not trying to start a size war. Just curious what you're thinking.


Maybe you didn't see post #376 ... however, if you did, I can't really add anything. It's just my personal preference leading me in that direction.

Which, I might add, I confirmed/decided this past weekend that if I pull the trigger on a frame someday, it will be an XL.


----------



## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

woodchips said:


> Maybe you didn't see post #376 ... however, if you did, I can't really add anything. It's just my personal preference leading me in that direction.
> 
> Which, I might add, I confirmed/decided this past weekend that if I pull the trigger on a frame someday, it will be an XL.


I also have an XL TB3 but have always liked a slightly smaller frame for my height. FedEx is supposed to drop of my XL Druid tomorrow. If you ever are around Maryland and need to throw a leg over one PM me. I know they're next to impossible to demo.


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

jwick said:


> I also have an XL TB3 but have always liked a slightly smaller frame for my height. *FedEx is supposed to drop of my XL Druid tomorrow. If you ever are around Maryland and need to throw a leg over one PM me.* I know they're next to impossible to demo.


Sweet! And thanks, dude, I appreciate the offer! ... will give ya a heads-up if I'm coming up that way.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

The guys at WA1 are sending it again with their druids!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

The Druid made the short list for PB's bike of the year: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/2019-pinkbike-awards-mountain-bike-of-the-year-nominees.html


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> The Druid made the short list for PB's bike of the year: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/2019-pinkbike-awards-mountain-bike-of-the-year-nominees.html


Awesome. Well deserved.

My Druid is going in for suspension surgery very shortly. I hope I don't f it up. It was damned near perfect stock.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

I'm liking the FloatX2 over the DPX2 - more supple off the top, better traction over the roots/rocks, still has good pop/playfullness but I'm still dialing it in.

The DPX2 was lively and fun on the flow trails but always felt "tight" in the rough - the squeaking didn't help neither.

Tempted to try coil...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> I'm liking the FloatX2 over the DPX2 - more supple off the top, better traction over the roots/rocks, still has good pop/playfullness but I'm still dialing it in.
> 
> The DPX2 was lively and fun on the flow trails but always felt "tight" in the rough - the squeaking didn't help neither.
> 
> Tempted to try coil...


The squeaking began to f up rides for me. I HATED it.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Anyone here in Vancouver and have a large druid they wouldn't. Mind me sitting on? Forbidden recent improvement in communication has me once again interested. Going to be down in van mid January.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Anyone know if this is the right spacer kit for the DPX2?

803-01-251

Thanks,

Dave


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> Anyone know if this is the right spacer kit for the DPX2?
> 
> 803-01-251
> 
> ...


Email Cam. He will likely respond immediately.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Email Cam. He will likely respond immediately.


Thanks Mike, will do. Hopefully by the end of next week the XL is here.


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

depeche4 said:


> Thanks Mike, will do. Hopefully by the end of next week the XL is here.


Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

robnow said:


> Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.


Sorry, nope, in Ontario.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

robnow said:


> Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.


The guys at Inside Line have their bikes in Calgary - no idea if they have an XL though.
https://theinsideline.ca


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

My XL just showed up, thanks to Cam at the inside line for getting me one these. I did not realize the XL run was so small, so I glad it worked out. Now I just need some parts and my ride wrap and I get get building.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone have a mileage/hours logged on their druid? 3000+ miles? and any maintenance done? I know the idler pulleys have been an issue but there is an updated version released.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Well, my large gloss moss is on the way (there are too many black bikes in the world for my taste)! Stoked to be joining the club. What are people running for sag, and any advice on baseline damping?


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Anyone have a mileage/hours logged on their druid? 3000+ miles? and any maintenance done? I know the idler pulleys have been an issue but there is an updated version released.


We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

Owen


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Mgrantorser said:


> Well, my large gloss moss is on the way (there are too many black bikes in the world for my taste)! Stoked to be joining the club. What are people running for sag, and any advice on baseline damping?


Welcome aboard!

Aim for 17mm to 19mm measured sag. Most people seem to prefer close to 19mm.

Unless you're heavy you'll probably run the compression circuit on the DPX2 almost fully open.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Interested in the pulley. PNW year-round wet riding always has me on the lookout for wear on the drivetrain.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


Sign me up please.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


Shimano 12spd version for me! If it's just standard/SRAM narrow/wide, I can't use it.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Count me in.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

---


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


I would be extremely interested. I would estimate that I am going to put maybe 3500-4000 miles on a Druid this year. Would this be something that would be cross compatible with Shimano and Sram 12 speeds?


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## aggrodude (May 2, 2013)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


 Please sign me up. Loving my druid....


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

My XL moss frame came in yesterday. Holy balls, I thought the pics were sweet ...

\m/


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

I've been holding off on posting my new XL hoping I'd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured I'd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. I'm coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and I'm smitten.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jwick said:


> I've been holding off on posting my new XL hoping I'd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured I'd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. I'm coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and I'm smitten.


Awesome. Congrats!

Consider experimenting a bit with the PSI in your DPX2.

I am 185 lbs unclothed and had set the PSI WAY too high initially, in accordance with my rough measurement of the sag. I was at 225 PSI initially. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and dropped it to 195 (LSC at 0, rebound at 4 clicks from open). MUCH better.

Then I watched this:






Based on the comments in that video, I tried dropping it to 175. Really good as well. I rode that way for a while and enjoyed it. But then I went a couple of weeks on my hardtail exclusively and when I got back on the Druid, the ass end felt a little wallowy so I went back up to 195, where it has remained to date. Anyway, anywhere between 175 and 195 works well for me.

There doesn't seem to be a bunch of micro-fiddling necessary with the Druid to find some exceedingly narrow sweet spot, which has been the case with a few other bikes I have owned.

Don't be afraid to bring a shock pump on the trail and play around with it.

All that said, I threw down on an 11-6, partly because nobody could stop the micro-squeaking in that DPX2 (which almost drove me insane), and partly because the 11-6 was 40% off. I am still waiting for the 11-6 to arrive but when it does, I am going to install it and as well, replace my FIT4 damper with a GRIP2 and install a Luftkappe. Apart from the squeaking, there really is no good reason for me to have moved to the 11-6. If I don't like it as much, I will quickly re-install the DPX2, because it kicked ass.

Anyway, have fun. It took me a a few epic rides to get used to pulling the front end up and a few other things, but once I did, I found heaven on wheels. I am hard pressed to find any weaknesses.

If you have time, report back again once you have had a bit more time in the saddle. I will be interested to hear your comments.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

aggrodude said:


> Please sign me up. Loving my druid....


Dude - that looks killer.


----------



## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

jwick said:


> I've been holding off on posting my new XL hoping I'd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured I'd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. I'm coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and I'm smitten.


Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?


How is your build coming? Any pics yet?


----------



## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

depeche4 said:


> Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?


That's all 11 speed. I hear nothing but great things about Shimano's 12 but for the price and my Hadley rear without the micro spline the 11 has always treated me well. I'm sure I'll upgrade to the 12 at some point.

For what's its worth I'm running my body weight (205 psi) on the DPX2 and it feels pretty spot on. I've read the whole thread and seen the vids. That seemed like a good place to start.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jwick said:


> That's all 11 speed. I hear nothing but great things about Shimano's 12 but for the price and my Hadley rear without the micro spline the 11 has always treated me well. I'm sure I'll upgrade to the 12 at some point.
> 
> For what's its worth I'm running my body weight (205 psi) on the DPX2 and it feels pretty spot on. I've read the whole thread and seen the vids. That seemed like a good place to start.


I'm running 11 speed Shimano on my Honzo and Unit. Great drivetrain. I much prefer it to my XO Eagle drivetrain on my Druid. I'm done with SRAM.

And yeah - body weight (or a touch more, depending on your riding weight) seems like a good place to start.


----------



## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

depeche4 said:


> Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?


For Mike,

Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.

What are the majority of people running? 140 or 150 up front?

Dave


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

depeche4 said:


> For Mike,
> 
> Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.
> 
> ...


I'm at 150 and it almost feels like 160 wouldn't be bad. Definitely leaving it at 150 until I get more ride time though. Climbs without wandering at 150 and the rear is so capable I'd rather not turn the volume down descending by running 140.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> For Mike,
> 
> Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.
> 
> ...


150. My comments are the same as jwick's. I too converted a 140 36 to 150 and have not looked back.

For a contrary view re the 140-150 decision, see the video above in post #418. This is one of the only comments I have seen anywhere by anyone suggesting 140 may be optimal. To be honest, with that comment the reviewer lost a little of the _gravitas_ that he otherwise had with me. Given the choice, I can't think of a single reason why I would prefer 140 over 150. Not even one. As a bonus, the 150 raised the stack a little bit (I like riding high in the front).

The weak link by far in my suspension is the fork, even at 150. It needs attention. Hence the FIT4 to GRIP2 damper conversion and installation of the Luftkappe, that will be happening soon. If that doesn't do it, next step will be to consider a coil conversion option, either from Push or Vorsprung.

PM me if you have any issues with the RideWrap. I did 2 tailored kits in a row - a matte one on my Druid, and then a gloss one on my Honzo. FWIW, I my be able to offer you a few tips and tricks that I learned in the course of all the madness.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> 150. My comments are the same as jwick's. I too converted a 140 36 to 150 and have not looked back.
> 
> For a contrary view re the 140-150 decision, see the video above in post #418. This is one of the only comments I have seen anywhere by anyone suggesting 140 may be optimal. To be honest, with that comment the reviewer lost a little of the _gravitas_ that he otherwise had with me. Given the choice, I can't think of a single reason why I would prefer 140 over 150. Not even one. As a bonus, the 150 raised the stack a little bit (I like riding high in the front).
> 
> ...


I might hit you up about the wrap. I have done all my bikes before but just with 3M and then I measured everything out. Having it all cut for you seems like heaven. My 36 is a Grip 2, when I was ordering it for my Pole the guys at worldwide cyclery mentioned that it was far superior to the FIT 4.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

160 up front, going for it. Rear is so good I think it will only make it better. Trying it tomorow, the rear end feels like a 150 bike going downhill. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone try running an angleset headset with a 140 or 150mm fork?


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

Hey Guys — I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain and I can’t pedal on the smallest cog under load without skipping. Shifting is smooth across the entire range of cogs and so is pedaling with exception of the 10 tooth. I have checked and rechecked my limit screws, B limit, cable tension, chain for sticky links, and performed a visual inspection of the chain line. I have successfully set up many drivetrains in the past and I even contacted Shimano and they sent a new cog under warranty to no avail. The only thing that seems questionable is the fact that the chain rests on the chainstay protector and it may affect the elevation of the chain relative to the cog’s teeth? Not sure if there is any validity to this when actually applying force but I thought it was worth noting. I am running the 10-51 T microspline version with no spacer on the back of the cassette and I added 4 links to the 126 link chain as recommended for an XL frame. Do you guys have any recommendations?? I’m at wits‘ end!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

fastdonkey said:


> Hey Guys - I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain and I can't pedal on the smallest cog under load without skipping. Shifting is smooth across the entire range of cogs and so is pedaling with exception of the 10 tooth. I have checked and rechecked my limit screws, B limit, cable tension, chain for sticky links, and performed a visual inspection of the chain line. I have successfully set up many drivetrains in the past and I even contacted Shimano and they sent a new cog under warranty to no avail. The only thing that seems questionable is the fact that the chain rests on the chainstay protector and it may affect the elevation of the chain relative to the cog's teeth? Not sure if there is any validity to this when actually applying force but I thought it was worth noting. I am running the 10-51 T microspline version with no spacer on the back of the cassette and I added 4 links to the 126 link chain as recommended for an XL frame. Do you guys have any recommendations?? I'm at wits' end!


There is a post in a different thread suggesting a similar problem with a large frame. My chain with a 30 tooth ring and Eagle XO drivetrain on my large frame does not contact the chain stay protector (although I have struggled badly with that drivetrain for other reasons).

How big is your ring?


----------



## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

*I have the same issue*



mtnbkrmike said:


> There is a post in a different thread suggesting a similar problem with a large frame. My chain with a 30 tooth ring and Eagle XO drivetrain on my large frame does not contact the chain stay protector (although I have struggled badly with that drivetrain for other reasons).
> 
> How big is your ring?


I have the same issue on a large frame with a 30t ring and xt12. The chain ring size is immaterial as the idler creates a fixed point for the top of the chain. I think it's an xt issue.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

fastdonkey said:


> Hey Guys - I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain....


Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.

_Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.

Another possible cause could be poor fitment of the chainslap protector. In the smallest sprocket the chain will foul the protector, but the interference should only be slight and in our testing does not impede function in the 10T sprocket. We had to design the protector in this why to give the quiet ride we desired. It is possible that the protector could have been fitted with an air pocket between the protector and the frame member (resulting in the protector sitting higher than designed). Check to see if there is any noticeable free space between the protector and frame by pushing on the protector. If there is we can send you a new one and you can perform the installation following the guidelines in our exploded view / assembly document for the Druid (you can find this at the bottom of the tech page on our website)._

I hope that helps! Owen


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Mgrantorser said:


> I have the same issue on a large frame with a 30t ring and xt12. The chain ring size is immaterial as the idler creates a fixed point for the top of the chain. I think it's an xt issue.


Of course. Good point on the irrelevance of the chain ring size.

So yeah. This seems to be an issue. Owen alluded to the redesigned idler working better with the Shimano 12 speed drivetrain. I wonder if this is what he was referring to. See post 331 and after.

EDIT: I didn't see Owen's post immediately above this one when I posted this.

That B tension adjustment has been a problem for me from Day 1, and why I have **** all over SRAM on this board. I have an Eagle XO drivetrain that I am STILL fiddling with the B tension screw. I have to do a full pedal rotation with no torque when switching into a lower gear, before laying the power down, failing which it sounds like I am ripping teeth off my cassette. I cringe every time I shift. Because of this, I have been riding my Druid with as little shifting as possible.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Of course. Good point on the irrelevance of the chain ring size.
> 
> So yeah. This seems to be an issue. Owen alluded to the redesigned idler working better with the Shimano 12 speed drivetrain. I wonder if this is what he was referring to. See post 331 and after.
> 
> ...


No the changes to the idler pulley were to help the Shimano chain mesh correctly with the pulley teeth. On the earlier version there was some interference with the shaped inner surfaces of the Shimano chain.

Sram drivetrains are notoriously bad for their inconsistent B-tension performance. This makes set up crucial on any bike, and unfortunately more fiddly on bikes with more chain growth. It can be done but it takes a knack to get right repeatedly. And in my experience will need frequent re-adjustments.


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## palmermc83 (Jan 15, 2020)

Anyone know where I can pick up an XL? A few places I've talked to say they are backordered until July.

Thanks!

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> No the changes to the idler pulley were to help the Shimano chain mesh correctly with the pulley teeth. On the earlier version there was some interference with the shaped inner surfaces of the Shimano chain.
> 
> Sram drivetrains are notoriously bad for their inconsistent B-tension performance. This makes set up crucial on any bike, and unfortunately more fiddly on bikes with more chain growth. It can be done but it takes a knack to get right repeatedly. And in my experience will need frequent re-adjustments.


I am running SRAM XX0 Eagle (32t front chainring) and when I do a hard cutty on flat pavement, my mech tends to hang up like I'm back-pedalling into a gear-shift or wrong gear.

Can't figure this out for the life of me...


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5° HTA)


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

AKRCD47 said:


> Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Running 15mm rise on mine (150mm fork). Forgot how many spacers I'm running but I think 15mm? Will check when I get home.

Edit: 15mm spacers, 40mm Renthal Apex Stem @ -5°, 15mm rise handlebars.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm running a 25 rise and wouldn't mind being a bit higher in the front. My steerer tube on my 36 was cut for my previous bike though. Not many spacers underneath on the Druid.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5° HTA)


The rumours have been flying around, including a joint venture with We Are One (the JV, while wishful thinking, appears to be false).

There are going to be Druid completes shortly. This appears to be confirmed in today's PB article (which may be why Forbidden has been focussing closely on Shimano drivetrain/idler pulley compatibility).

Time will tell whether a longer travel HSP is on its way...


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

AKRCD47 said:


> Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Okay, so it's not just me. I started with the usual 30mm under the stem, but after a couple of days riding I was down to 15mm. This is all on a 140mm fork with a 20mm rise bar. When I go to 150mm travel, I may have to swap out the bar for a 10mm rise.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

cheezwhip said:


> Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5° HTA)


"I do not need a bikepark-capable but nice-pedalling long-travel rig! My current bike is excellent, and I already have a DH bike!"
[spouse leaves room, rolling eyes]
...
...
...
[rubs credit card on laptop screen]
"We'll be together soon. I promise."


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> "I do not need a bikepark-capable but nice-pedalling long-travel rig! My current bike is excellent, and I already have a DH bike!"
> [spouse leaves room, rolling eyes]
> ...
> ...
> ...


Gold.

Me too.


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## heliguy81 (Aug 9, 2009)

Another proud druid owner here!
wanted to go coil on my Druid. Any setup info? recommendations?


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## malvoize (Apr 9, 2010)

*Searching for a size M Druid*

Hi,

If anyone want to sell a size M Druid, contact me ! I am really interested


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> ...PM me if you have any issues with the RideWrap. I did 2 tailored kits in a row - a matte one on my Druid, and then a gloss one on my Honzo. FWIW, I my be able to offer you a few tips and tricks that I learned in the course of all the madness.


Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

My ride wrap shows next week (my buddy is a dealer) then the fun begins. Turkey Point here in Ontario looks like summer, so I might have to get my bike done soon.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

fizzywater said:


> Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.


I can relate man. In addition to my sanity, I almost lost my relationship with my daughter and my GF in the process. Applying some of those pieces was like solving a Rubik's cube. I am sure I must have fked up in the amount of soap I was using, because **** went from zero to 100 in no time flat.

Congrats in getting the ball over the goal line.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

I can confirm that this is the case. However, I think that at that speed and considering how slippery the material feels I can't detect additional drag.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

danlovesbikes said:


> I can confirm that this is the case. However, I think that at that speed and considering how slippery the material feels I can't detect additional drag.





Smackem said:


> I read a bit of a blurb on vitalmtb and Pinkbike, owners are reporting that on a 10 tooth cog the chain drags on the seatstay. Anyone confirm this, and what cog does it stop dragging?


It does. However, at that speed and considering the slippery feel of the seatstay protection material, I doubt you would perceive drag. Also, how many bikes have I owned where the chain slapped the chainstay like crazy in higher gears!


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

fizzywater said:


> Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.


Seems to be trickier to install than Invisiframe, but very comprehensive coverage. I managed it in 3hrs using the 4 drops of baby shampoo per litre. I have done a few frames with Invisiframe so I've had some practice, but you're right, very tailored and tricky to get right.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


I'll take one!


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Anyone try running an angleset headset with a 140 or 150mm fork?


Yes. 150mm with a 1° angleset from Works Components.


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

*Drivetrain update*

Hey All:

Sorry it's taken so long to respond. I followed the advice given by Nathan via email and quoted by Owen below and was very careful with adjusting my B tension. After some fiddling, I am now successfully able to pedal out of the saddle on the 10T cog (32 tooth front ring for those that asked). Shifting is smooth across the range when tested in my neighborhood. I am on an XL and the chain does rest on the chainstay protector and even makes very slight contact while pedaling but doesn't appear to effect the chain retention on the smallest cog at this time. I really need to get this bad boy on the trail for a proper test, but I wanted to give an update and thank you all for the responses! Keep working that B tension (even to the point where it doesn't sound smooth while in the stand).



ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.
> 
> _Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.
> 
> ...


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

fastdonkey said:


> Hey All:
> 
> Sorry it's taken so long to respond. I followed the advice given by Nathan via email and quoted by Owen below and was very careful with adjusting my B tension. After some fiddling, I am now successfully able to pedal out of the saddle on the 10T cog (32 tooth front ring for those that asked). Shifting is smooth across the range when tested in my neighborhood. I am on an XL and the chain does rest on the chainstay protector and even makes very slight contact while pedaling but doesn't appear to effect the chain retention on the smallest cog at this time. I really need to get this bad boy on the trail for a proper test, but I wanted to give an update and thank you all for the responses! Keep working that B tension (even to the point where it doesn't sound smooth while in the stand).


Similar experience recently with my XL. Sounds rough in the stand but at sag works well. I'm also running a 12sp Shimano chain on a SRAM 11sp cassette and rear mech, running onto a Shimano 12sp crank/chainring. SRAM XX1 11sp chain was giving too much noise from the idler but the Shimano 12sp chain is quieter and has improved shifting too.

Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> Similar experience recently with my XL. Sounds rough in the stand but at sag works well. I'm also running a 12sp Shimano chain on a SRAM 11sp cassette and rear mech, running onto a Shimano 12sp crank/chainring. SRAM XX1 11sp chain was giving too much noise from the idler but the Shimano 12sp chain is quieter and has improved shifting too.
> 
> Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.


90+ kg riding weight. LSC and HSC wide open. Rebound 4 clicks from wide open. 195 PSI. Stock tokens.

I used 2 ShockWizes to assist with this.

That said, my 11-6 arrives Thursday, so I get to figure all this out again.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> 90+ kg riding weight. LSC and HSC wide open. Rebound 4 clicks from wide open. 195 PSI. Stock tokens.
> 
> I used 2 ShockWizes to assist with this.
> 
> That said, my 11-6 arrives Thursday, so I get to figure all this out again.


Thank you.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> Thank you.


I have run it as low as 175 PSI. See my posts above and the video I linked from the Vancouver Island dude who liked his at 175. I go for periods on my hardtail and when I get back on the Druid, 175 feels like a bit of a squish bucket to me. But then again, anything would after getting my retinas detached for weeks at a time on my hardtail. Shockingly though, I rarely get pedal strikes with 175mm cranks regardless of what PSI I am running, and I ride in very rocky terrain.

All in all, my settings above are what I have landed on. That said, the sweet spot on the Druid is the widest of any bike I have ever owned. Regardless of the settings (within reason), it's just all varying degrees of goodness.

PS - I appreciate that I speak very highly of this bike. I believe that is the case, but others may have a less positive experience with it. So everyone reading this should take what I say with a grain of salt. What is good for me, may not be good for you. All I can say is the Druid is VERY GOOD for me.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have run it as low as 175 PSI. See my posts above and the video I linked from the Vancouver Island dude who liked his at 175. I go for periods on my hardtail and when I get back on the Druid, 175 feels like a bit of a squish bucket to me. But then again, anything would after getting my retinas detached for weeks at a time on my hardtail. Shockingly though, I rarely get pedal strikes with 175mm cranks regardless of what PSI I am running, and I ride in very rocky terrain.
> 
> All in all, my settings above are what I have landed on. That said, the sweet spot on the Druid is the widest of any bike I have ever owned. Regardless of the settings (within reason), it's just all varying degrees of goodness.
> 
> PS - I appreciate that I speak very highly of this bike. I believe that is the case, but others may have a less positive experience with it. So everyone reading this should take what I say with a grain of salt. What is good for me, may not be good for you. All I can say is the Druid is VERY GOOD for me.


I originally went well over 200psi and it felt too harsh. I have since dropped pressure and backed off compression. Not really had riding time due to a brake failure but I definitely had the rebound too slow. Thanks for the tips.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> I originally went well over 200psi and it felt too harsh. I have since dropped pressure and backed off compression. Not really had riding time due to a brake failure but I definitely had the rebound too slow. Thanks for the tips.


Me too. I tried measuring the sag on the buried stanchion when I first got it and ended up at 225 PSI. I went for a 5 hour hammer fest with some animals I know. Christ. I may as well have been riding my rigid Unit. I was so beaten after that. I was actually a little concerned about things. But everything came together at 195.

*in addition, unbeknownst to me, my fork had a crazy vacuum going on - it may as well have been rigid too. That first ride almost killed me.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Hey Druid owners,
I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities: 

zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
zs44/28.6 zs56/40h

Maybe they both work and this is a preference thing w/regards to stack height. I don't know what the 30 vs. 40 number responds to. 

Can anyone shed any light on this?

Thanks!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Wazzou said:


> Hey Druid owners,
> I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities:
> 
> zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
> ...


Forbidden specifies the zs44/28.6 zs56/40h in their documentation.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

danlovesbikes said:


> Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.


An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range. In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.

You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.

Set your rebound as fast as you can ride it without getting bucked. With shorter travel bikes such as the Druid a nice fast rebound allows them to ride higher in their travel over repeated hits.

We found the stock .2 token to work well for most riders.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Wazzou said:


> Hey Druid owners,
> I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities:
> 
> zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
> ...


The 30 / 40 number refers to the size of the crown race. 30 being for a straight 1 1/8" steerer, 40 for a 1 1/8" - 1.5" tapered steerer. All modern single crown forks use tapered steerer tubes so you will need the zs44/28.6 zs56/40.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)




----------



## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range. In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.
> 
> You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info, I'll give that a go this weekend.


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

*Skipping issue not resolved*

I was able to get my bike beyond the neighborhood for some testing and was disappointed to find out that the chain still skips on the smallest cog. I went to the point of backing out the B limit all the way (not even concerned with shifting, just trying to get as much wrap as possible) and it still skips under hard bursts of pedaling. As a recap, I have a brand new XL frame with brand new Shimano XT 12-speed, 10-51 cassette and 32 t ring with the XT 12s chain. The chain rests on the seatstay protector even when pedaling so it is my hypothesis that this is keeping the chain from fully interfacing with the cog and there's just not enough chain wrapped around to stay engaged under load, even with the b limit all the way out. I emailed Forbidden and copied Fanatik to see how they want to proceed. More to follow 



ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.
> 
> _Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.
> 
> ...


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## bogeydog (Apr 13, 2015)

fastdonkey said:


> I was able to get my bike beyond the neighborhood for some testing and was disappointed to find out that the chain still skips on the smallest cog. I went to the point of backing out the B limit all the way (not even concerned with shifting, just trying to get as much wrap as possible) and it still skips under hard bursts of pedaling. As a recap, I have a brand new XL frame with brand new Shimano XT 12-speed, 10-51 cassette and 32 t ring with the XT 12s chain. The chain rests on the seatstay protector even when pedaling so it is my hypothesis that this is keeping the chain from fully interfacing with the cog and there's just not enough chain wrapped around to stay engaged under load, even with the b limit all the way out. I emailed Forbidden and copied Fanatik to see how they want to proceed. More to follow


Chain isn't the correct length. I had the same issue on another bike and had to take 2 links out.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

I followed Forbidden's recommendation of adding 4 links to a 126 link chain to get 130 links. If Forbidden is correct, I am assuming length of chain is not the issue. Owen might chime in to confirm or clarify



bogeydog said:


> Chain isn't the correct length. I had the same issue on another bike and had to take 2 links out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

fastdonkey said:


> I followed Forbidden's recommendation of adding 4 links to a 126 link chain to get 130 links. If Forbidden is correct, I am assuming length of chain is not the issue. Owen might chime in to confirm or clarify


I'm currently at 124 links on an XL with a Shimano 11 speed drivetrain (11-42 cassette, 11 speed XTR chain, XTR GS cage). The chain rests on the cs protector in the 11 tooth. I was getting skipping under power like you describe until I readjusted the b-tension way down. The upper pulley is almost touching the cassette while in the stand. The skipping is now gone for me.

Just mentioning as a point of reference for you and your prob. Also- chain length does effect chain wrap (varies by derailleur cage pivot design).


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didn't think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturer's recommendation. For what it's worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyone's responses trying to help me get it sorted!



jwick said:


> I'm currently at 124 links on an XL with a Shimano 11 speed drivetrain (11-42 cassette, 11 speed XTR chain, XTR GS cage). The chain rests on the cs protector in the 11 tooth. I was getting skipping under power like you describe until I readjusted the b-tension way down. The upper pulley is almost touching the cassette while in the stand. The skipping is now gone for me.
> 
> Just mentioning as a point of reference for you and your prob. Also- chain length does effect chain wrap (varies by derailleur cage pivot design).


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Thanks for the replies about the headset specs. I have a headset ordered now. Now I just need another small part...the frame itself! Soon I hope!


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

fastdonkey said:


> Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didn't think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturer's recommendation. For what it's worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyone's responses trying to help me get it sorted!


I have 10t cog on my 11sp XX1 cassette. I had initial set up dramas relating to b-gap but seems to run well now.


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## fastdonkey (Jan 19, 2020)

Thanks for confirming you were able to get a 10t cog on an XL to work properly for your SRAM drivetrain. How many links are you running on your chain? Has anybody had luck with Shimano XT M8100 12 speed on an XL?



danlovesbikes said:


> I have 10t cog on my 11sp XX1 cassette. I had initial set up dramas relating to b-gap but seems to run well now.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

My Druid went in for some fairly major surgery today. Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper to replace the FIT4 in my 36, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber. Should be incredible.

Question for you guys - is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff? I have been doing this but am getting a little freaked about cross threading or over-torquing those screws. On my bike at least, they feel a little fragile. Maybe I am just being paranoid but I am thinking about switching over to using the bosses on the underside of the top tube instead.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Hey,
I have been reading this thread for a little while now and I'm looking at buying a Druid frame. I have been riding 27.5, a couple of different bikes, for years now. So this will be my choice for entering into the 29 size. I really like the 27.5 bikes I have been riding on the tight technical steep up/down trails that I ride here in Western Colorado and Moab. Even though I am probably going to make the switch to a 29, I have my doubts that a 29 will be more fun to ride than a large travel wider-tire 27.5 bike on this slow-tech type of riding. But I could be totally wrong about this! 

I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change? Secondly, is there anyone here riding a Druid in the slow-tech, dry rocky trails of Colorado/Utah/Arizona/etc, and how do you like this bike in this terrain?

I'm very intrigued by the Druid's design, so much so, that I am considering one to replace my 27.5. I think with the rearward path suspension design, mid travel, and short wheelbase the Druid could be really great on my favorite trails.

Thanks for your comments & suggestions.


----------



## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My Druid went in for some fairly major surgery today. Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper to replace the FIT4 in my 36, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber. Should be incredible.
> 
> Question for you guys - is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff? I have been doing this but am getting a little freaked about cross threading or over-torquing those screws. On my bike at least, they feel a little fragile. Maybe I am just being paranoid but I am thinking about switching over to using the bosses on the underside of the top tube instead.


I use the downtube box to store things I'm unlikely to need (until I need it!) like tube, spare shifter cable, spare hanger. Stuff I'm more likely to use (flat repair kit/plugs, multitool, etc) goes either in my little hip bag with my first aid kit or in the storage of my one up edc pump. That way I minimize the amount of time I'm taking the downtube protector on/off


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> I use the downtube box to store things I'm unlikely to need (until I need it!) like tube, spare shifter cable, spare hanger. Stuff I'm more likely to use (flat repair kit/plugs, multitool, etc) goes either in my little hip bag with my first aid kit or in the storage of my one up edc pump. That way I minimize the amount of time I'm taking the downtube protector on/off


Makes sense. Thanks for sharing.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Wazzou said:


> I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change?
> 
> I'm very intrigued by the Druid's design, so much so, that I am considering one to replace my 27.5. I think with the rearward path suspension design, mid travel, and short wheelbase the Druid could be really great on my favorite trails.
> 
> Thanks for your comments & suggestions.


I've been on 29ers for about 7yrs now. No looking back for me, they're better for me in most situations. I'm more of a wheels on the ground rider but the Druid seems to want to get air at every opportunity. I did revisit 27.5 but felt a huge loss in speed so just gave them away entirely.

You should probably try and get a demo for the weekend. An hour or two might not be enough time to mentally adjust. I'm happy with the Druid, I came off a Foxy 29 and the Druid is faster up and down.


----------



## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

fastdonkey said:


> Thanks for confirming you were able to get a 10t cog on an XL to work properly for your SRAM drivetrain. How many links are you running on your chain? Has anybody had luck with Shimano XT M8100 12 speed on an XL?


Using a standard length 12sp Shimano XT chain plus link (126 I believe, not sure if that includes link or not?). My cassette is only 46t and the 11sp XX1 rear mech has a shorter cage than 12sp mechs so my chain length requirement is obviously slightly less.

Have you set b-gap at sag? Also, have you ensured that the top jockey is slightly outboard of the 10t cog? Maybe back off limit screws, check sag gap and offset then re-do limits. You may have tried all of this..


----------



## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber.
> 
> is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff?


I'm interested to know your thoughts on the difference with a coil vs DPX2. It's probably the only upgrade I'd consider down the track. I'm keen on the EXT STORIA LOK.

Haven't used the cavity yet. I don't carry tubes anymore and I can't be bothering flipping the bike over to get at stuff anyway.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> I'm interested to know your thoughts on the difference with a coil vs DPX2. It's probably the only upgrade I'd consider down the track. I'm keen on the EXT STORIA LOK.
> 
> Haven't used the cavity yet. I don't carry tubes anymore and I can't be bothering flipping the bike over to get at stuff anyway.


I'm running the 11-6 on my Druid since December, had 1 month on the DPX2 prior. I've never been able to get an off the shelf trail shock (dpx2, super deluxe, etc) to work well for me on a 130+ travel bike when ridden fast and in anger (only exceptions are the cane creek inlines and the dvo topaz as both are end user tunable). I'm 210 ready to ride, advanced rider with aggressive riding style. I was planning on getting a cane creek db coil il to match my helm fork but the 11-6 was on sale for $750 and with a Fanatik gift card I couldn't say no! For everyday riding, the coil shock isn't as huge of a difference as it was on my old Guerilla Gravity Smash (which really needs a coil IMO), it's a touch more supple and in the trail mode is very similar to the DPX2 in open mode. The 11-6 really shines on high speed, rough descents when in open mode where there is, again IMO, a noticeable difference in composure, wheel tracking, and how the bike handles big hits. Only trade off, again to me, is the weight gain.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> Hey,
> I have been reading this thread for a little while now and I'm looking at buying a Druid frame. I have been riding 27.5, a couple of different bikes, for years now. So this will be my choice for entering into the 29 size. I really like the 27.5 bikes I have been riding on the tight technical steep up/down trails that I ride here in Western Colorado and Moab. Even though I am probably going to make the switch to a 29, I have my doubts that a 29 will be more fun to ride than a large travel wider-tire 27.5 bike on this slow-tech type of riding. But I could be totally wrong about this!
> 
> I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change? Secondly, is there anyone here riding a Druid in the slow-tech, dry rocky trails of Colorado/Utah/Arizona/etc, and how do you like this bike in this terrain?
> ...


I live in the deserts of Southern California and have ridden the bike in Arizona (Tuscon and Phoenix). It handles slow tech trails very well though the extra length does take a bit of getting used to if you're coming from a shorter bike. It's a phenomenal tech climber.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Hey rpearce,
Thanks for your reply. That's the feedback I am looking for. I just got back from riding Tucson/Phoenix/Sedona 2 weeks ago. So much fun, especially Sedona. The vortexes are probably not real, but the excellent singletrack sure is! It was my second time riding the "hog" trails in Sedona, but this time with a 150/160mm 27.5 bike - all slow tech, chess match maneuvering combined with steep drops and climbs. The riding down in AZ and in my neighborhood of Western Colorado/SE Utah is so rough and rocky...and always involves steep technical climbing. I'm looking forward to trying this bike on that type of riding, and I hope it is nearly as fun. I know that as a 29, it will be great in almost all other areas of trail riding.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.


I would characterize my Druid as planted and stable. And it's going to be even more so with the 11-6. Not to say I can't get it in the air off natural kickers, but it is not what I would characterize as overly playful. That said, the Druid truly is a beast. It tames anything and everything that gets in its way. Effortlessly. And without all the sloppy bullshit that is a necessary evil with some of the longer travel bikes. The Druid is tight AF.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Wazzou said:


> Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.


The Foxy had a long front centre and I've given away 20mm on ETT, that hasn't translated to feeling cramped at all though. The Foxy was probably a touch long in the reach for me. I am loving the longer chainstay on the Druid, finally a long bike that doesn't want to tuck under on steep climbs. So much easier navigating up steeper rocky climbs than all of my previous bikes (there's been a lot) and that is probably why people are also saying it's stable. A longer chainstay feels less twitchy when speed increases.

As as a direct comparison to previous bikes it is more planted and stable than the Foxy, even at speed (short chainstay on the Foxy), and I also find it very poppy and lively too. It's really the only bike I can remember riding that has both of these characteristics.


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## malvoize (Apr 9, 2010)

Hi! Does anyone have ridden the new Hightower and could compare it to the Druid? Thanks


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

I am really curious if with Forbidden being a smaller company but also coming out with the best bike yet. I would be interested in if they are able to sell different linkages for us customers. I've always been curious about testing a Mullet bike with a 27.5 rear wheel but dont want to ride anything but my Druid.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

About to start putting my bike together as almost all my parts have showed up. For the cranks, is there a need to use any spacers?

Thanks,

Dave


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)




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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> View attachment 1312077


Nice!!!!! And????????


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dude! said:


> Nice!!!!! And????????


Not sure. Just picked it up.

In total:

DPX2 replaced by 11-6 
FIT4 replaced by Grip2 
Luftkappe added 
Old idler pulley (with replaced bearings) replaced by new idler pulley
Blown DT 240 front bearings replaced 
New XX1 chain+
180 front rotor replaced by 200 front rotor
New rubber - 2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR2

I have now spent more on this bike than any other bike in the last 20+ years. Oh well. At least it's a killer machine I'm sinking money into.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not sure. Just picked it up.
> 
> In total:
> 
> ...


That is a fine looking machine. All money spent on very good components though. I reckon you'll love the changes. Please keep us updated.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> That is a fine looking machine. All money spent on very good components though. I reckon you'll love the changes. Please keep us updated.


Thanks. Unfortunately it got a little more portly in the makeover. 30 lbs even to 32.5 lbs.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks. Unfortunately it got a little more portly in the makeover. 30 lbs even to 32.5 lbs.
> 
> View attachment 1312115
> 
> ...


It will grow another lb once you put worthy casings on too! Good thing it it hides the weight well and rewards you going downhill.

Weight counting is for XC.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

For those who may be curious, the weight above includes a tube and levers jammed in the downtube behind the downtube protector/cover. There may be more **** crammed in there as well. I can't remember. Maybe a CO2 head and cartridge. It's probably less than 32 with all that removed. 

Add to that my bear spray in the bottle cage, my pump that straps beside the bottle cage, and my mini tool that attaches under the bottle cage (all of which I carry 100% of the time), and yeah. Good thing I am commuting Monday to Friday throughout the winter and lifting like a sonofa b. I hope I don't notice the extra weight come spring.

As for casings, I ride this bike as fast as I possibly can throughout the Rockies in Alberta and BC. Lots of mileage too - idler pulley and DT 240 bearings pooched from last summer and fall. I have been doing this using EXO Minions for well over a decade. No problems to date. Maybe I need to step it up!


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

danlovesbikes said:


> Yes. 150mm with a 1° angleset from Works Components.


How does it compare? Trail riding? DH?


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


Hi Owen, Any update on this?


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> How does it compare? Trail riding? DH?


Well I didn't ride the Druid with standard headset as I built it up with the angleset straight away. My previous bike had a 66° and I much preferred it after I changed that to 65° so I just went with slack straight away.

I think the Druid would ride great either way, I just happen to like the additional confidence the slacker setting gives me in steep rock chutes and fast rock gardens. It still rails around anything and the only time it's a handful is around tight switchbacks up or down. I think that's just wheelbase though as I'm on XL, all of my previous bikes felt like that.

Due to said chutes, I am wondering if I should put a 160mm shaft into the Lyrik. I'd go back to standard headset then as I'd be slackening the HA slightly anyway with the increase travel. Anyone with any 160mm Druid experience out there? Any word from Forbidden if they will warranty if a fork greater than 150mm is used?

I never actually thought I'd take a 130mm travel bike down the stuff that I have, it's pretty nuts how.good modern bikes are. I PR'd a descent the other day on my first run on the Druid, I didn't notice because I took 9secs off that on the second run! I've ridden that trail 100+ times.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

danlovesbikes said:


> Well I didn't ride the Druid with standard headset as I built it up with the angleset straight away. My previous bike had a 66° and I much preferred it after I changed that to 65° so I just went with slack straight away.
> 
> I think the Druid would ride great either way, I just happen to like the additional confidence the slacker setting gives me in steep rock chutes and fast rock gardens. It still rails around anything and the only time it's a handful is around tight switchbacks up or down. I think that's just wheelbase though as I'm on XL, all of my previous bikes felt like that.
> 
> ...


Forbidden is rumoured on the interwebz to be coming out with a longer travel HSP in late summer. That could perhaps be more in line with what you are looking for. Not sure.

Coming from a Norco Range, for me it's awesome to not have all the slop that seems to be a necessary evil with the longer travel bikes. I'm good with the Druid's 150/130 travel for any terrain I encounter.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Anyone interested in trying a 209.5x57 shock, shoot me a message on here and I will give you some information. Kind of like a lunch ride SB130, should bump the travel to somewhere around 134mm out back. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

I'm interested in hearing more about your shock.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

I have some awesome news to report. I have a Large Druid in Moss color on the way to Western Colorado...should be here on Thursday. Woo Hoo!!!

I am going to finally cross over to the 29r darkside. And on a very unique bike. I am totally psyched. Should look something like this...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> I have some awesome news to report. I have a Large Druid in Moss color on the way to Western Colorado...should be here on Thursday. Woo Hoo!!!
> 
> I am going to finally cross over to the 29r darkside. And on a very unique bike. I am totally psyched. Should look something like this...
> 
> View attachment 1312587


Congrats! And psyched you should be. You are in for some incredible excitement ahead...


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## bjtreglia (Feb 23, 2008)

Any Druid owners having an issue with tire rub on the lower chain guide pulley? I've been dealing with this issue on my size medium frame, with Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35 super gravity tire on the rear. The tire buzz happens when putting some power into the pedals, sawing away at the bars or hard turns to the left. Leaning the bike into a left turn flexes the wheel enough to cause contact. First, I was running a Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel on the back; although that rim had too much flex, even with the wheel dished a little to the left. I switched to a Crank Brothers Synthesis rear wheel; and I was still experiencing the tire buzz. So, I have dished this wheel a little to the left. This has resolved it for the most part. I do get a buzz once in a while when hitting a corner hard. The chain guide is spaced as it came from Forbidden; and the chain line is spot on.


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## CRcabkri (Aug 13, 2010)

fastdonkey said:


> Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didn't think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturer's recommendation. For what it's worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyone's responses trying to help me get it sorted!


I'm jumping in on this a bit late, but I have the same issue (identical drivetrain setup, albeit on a L frame as opposed to XL). I emailed Forbidden and they recommended playing with the B screw (I think it might've been my email Owen was referring to on fastdonkey's original post). I'm in the same place; haven't been able to sort it out in either.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

danlovesbikes said:


> Due to said chutes, I am wondering if I should put a 160mm shaft into the Lyrik. I'd go back to standard headset then as I'd be slackening the HA slightly anyway with the increase travel. Anyone with any 160mm Druid experience out there? Any word from Forbidden if they will warranty if a fork greater than 150mm is used?


Got told by the shop I bought my frame from that it would void the warranty if I kept the 160mm air shaft on my Fox 36. I decided to go to a 150mm air shaft...


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

_HENDO_ said:


> Got told by the shop I bought my frame from that it would void the warranty if I kept the 160mm air shaft on my Fox 36. I decided to go to a 150mm air shaft...


Thanks mate. I'm pretty happy with the 150mm so far, I was more curious about the possibility than anything.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!


Damn. Sorry to hear this. Glad you got it sorted out.

And yes - it's a reminder to all of us to check for things like this. I was told to put some moto foam between the yoke and the seat stay, or whatever, due to a risk of rocks jamming in there.

On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

rpearce1475 said:


> A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!


Thanks for the heads up. I have been checking bolts every few rides, might do a pre-ride check every time now...


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Damn. Sorry to hear this. Glad you got it sorted out.
> 
> And yes - it's a reminder to all of us to check for things like this. I was told to put some moto foam between the yoke and the seat stay, or whatever, due to a risk of rocks jamming in there.
> 
> On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?


I use one of these https://nsmb.com/articles/wolf-tooth-b-rad-mini-roll-top-bag/ to hold spare cable, der hanger, and anything I don't want in my pockets if not wearing a pack (keys, snacks, etc). Tube and large flat repair kit (tire boots and interior patches with cement) go in the hole in the downtube


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?


I've got the OneUp edc pump mounted with the Topeak centerline mount.

https://www.topeak.com/us/en/products/pump-replacement-kit/475-bracket-(centerline-mount)

Extra tube and der hanger in the cargo bay down below.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jwick said:


> I've got the OneUp edc pump mounted with the Topeak centerline mount.
> 
> https://www.topeak.com/us/en/products/pump-replacement-kit/475-bracket-(centerline-mount)
> 
> Extra tube and der hanger in the cargo bay down below.


Nice. I see you did a little customizing of the colour scheme (or lack thereof). Only semi murdered out now.

A couple of comments...

I am almost positive that when my LBS replaced the DPX2 with the 11-6, they mentioned that they used a dab of loctite on the shock bolts, just to make sure.

I too use the "reverse SWAT box" for my tube, levers, etc., but I am mildly concerned about the integrity of the tiny fastening bolts, even if I never go into it. I suspect it was never designed for this. I don't believe there is anything commenting about it being used for storage at the Forbidden website. First world concerns for sure though.

Anyway, I am going to continue using it but I need to find a use for those bosses. Lol. My pump and mini tool are connected really cleanly to my bottle cage bosses on the downtube.


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice. I see you did a little customizing of the colour scheme (or lack thereof). Only semi murdered out now.
> 
> A couple of comments...
> 
> ...


I came very close to the Wolftooth bag rpearce motioned above. Looks like a great solution. Beyond a one bottle ride I'd rather just wear a hip or shoulder pack for the extra stuff though. There comes a point where it starts to feel like bike packing for the long hauls. YMMV


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> I use one of these https://nsmb.com/articles/wolf-tooth-b-rad-mini-roll-top-bag/ to hold spare cable, der hanger, and anything I don't want in my pockets if not wearing a pack (keys, snacks, etc). Tube and large flat repair kit (tire boots and interior patches with cement) go in the hole in the downtube


I missed this post.

Do you also use Wolftooth's plate between the bag and the bosses? How much wider is the bag and plate than the top tube? Does it ever get in the way of peddling or otherwise?


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I missed this post.
> 
> Do you also use Wolftooth's plate between the bag and the bosses? How much wider is the bag and plate than the top tube? Does it ever get in the way of peddling or otherwise?


I use the B-rad 2 to create enough space, it is not wider than the top tube. The bag can be wider if you overfill it but it is easy to pack it so it projects down more than out (if that makes sense) pedaling interference again depends on how you pack it


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> I use the B-rad 2 to create enough space, it is not wider than the top tube. The bag can be wider if you overfill it but it is easy to pack it so it projects down more than out (if that makes sense) pedaling interference again depends on how you pack it


This sounds interesting.

My LBS, which is a Forbidden dealer, has some WT stuff there. I went in a different direction when he told me that the rectangular plate for the strap (not the bag) was significantly wider than the top tube. I see that the bag does not have this plate and may work a lot better. [edit: on closer look, it appears the bag uses the same rectangular plate as the accessory strap]

That said, my experience with **** in a bag is that it gets pulverized to the point that it partially turns into dust. Maybe this bag is better at damping the vibrations. I guess it also depends on what you put in there, and whether you are able to cinch things up nice and snug.

Can you please post some pics, if it's not too much trouble?


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

bjtreglia said:


> Any Druid owners having an issue with tire rub on the lower chain guide pulley? I've been dealing with this issue on my size medium frame, with Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35 super gravity tire on the rear. The tire buzz happens when putting some power into the pedals, sawing away at the bars or hard turns to the left. Leaning the bike into a left turn flexes the wheel enough to cause contact. First, I was running a Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel on the back; although that rim had too much flex, even with the wheel dished a little to the left. I switched to a Crank Brothers Synthesis rear wheel; and I was still experiencing the tire buzz. So, I have dished this wheel a little to the left. This has resolved it for the most part. I do get a buzz once in a while when hitting a corner hard. The chain guide is spaced as it came from Forbidden; and the chain line is spot on.


I was thinking of running the same wheelset. Any idea what spokes you where using? Lacing and tension? Tire pressure? if a 2.35 is rubbing.....than a 2.5 will for sure.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Been building my druid, Just curious how many spacers are you guys running on your BB? The 2.5mm on the drive side doesn't seem to align the cranks up right.


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## bjtreglia (Feb 23, 2008)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> I was thinking of running the same wheelset. Any idea what spokes you where using? Lacing and tension? Tire pressure? if a 2.35 is rubbing.....than a 2.5 will for sure.


I used Sapim Leader 2.0mm spokes, 3 cross lacing on the rear wheel. The spoke tension was only by feel compared to a factory built Zipp 3Zero Moto front wheel. Even if tension was a little off, I still think the rubbing wouldl be a problem. I dished the wheel 3 to 5 mm to the left. My 2.35 Schwalbe is more like 2.45" actual width measured at the outer edge of the side knobs.


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## bjtreglia (Feb 23, 2008)

It really depends on the crankset/chainring/BB you're are using. I had to run through a few trial and errors before I achieved perfect alignment with the upper pulley. I'm using a Hope BB with Raceface Atlas crankset (30mm spindle) and a Blackspire non-boost chainring. I don't think I'm running the 2.5mm BB cup spacer. I can't recall how many spindle spacers I ended up using. I did discovered,with my setup, a non-boost ring allowed my crank arms to be an equal distance from centerline.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Been building my druid, Just curious how many spacers are you guys running on your BB? The 2.5mm on the drive side doesn't seem to align the cranks up right.


Druid have on their downloadable tech sheet, 52mm chainline and 73mm BB shell. I used the latest XT (52mm) chainline crankset, 32t ring and standard XT BB no spacers.

I also have a 2.5" Maxxis Minion DHF on the rear and there is still clearance, maybe 3mm.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

danlovesbikes said:


> I also have a 2.5" Maxxis Minion DHF on the rear and there is still clearance, maybe 3mm.


I'm running a Schwalbe Hans Dampf in a 2.6 on a Reynolds carbon wheel set (think it's 30mm internal) and haven't noticed any rubbing.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

powderturns said:


> I'm running a Schwalbe Hans Dampf in a 2.6 on a Reynolds carbon wheel set (think it's 30mm internal) and haven't noticed any rubbing.


I should have mentioned I'm also running a Stans Sentry rim, 32mm inner.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Was running 2.3 minions on We Are One 27mm Insiders. Zero issues. 

Moved to a 2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR2 combo. Time will tell but from what I see, I have ample clearance.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This sounds interesting.
> 
> My LBS, which is a Forbidden dealer, has some WT stuff there. I went in a different direction when he told me that the rectangular plate for the strap (not the bag) was significantly wider than the top tube. I see that the bag does not have this plate and may work a lot better. [edit: on closer look, it appears the bag uses the same rectangular plate as the accessory strap]
> 
> ...


I wanted to get some more time in with the wolftooth set up before responding. So the plate does project out beyond the top tube by maybe a quarter of an inch each side. However, there is enough fore/aft movement in the plate and in the B-rad mount it attaches to to get the plate far forward enough where you won't hit it pedaling. That being set, I found it such a pain mounting the bag to the mounting plate that I ended up just strapping it to the downtube above the water bottle. Holds on very nicely and good volume for spares, first aid kit, etc up there and still fit a full size water bottle.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> I wanted to get some more time in with the wolftooth set up before responding. So the plate does project out beyond the top tube by maybe a quarter of an inch each side. However, there is enough fore/aft movement in the plate and in the B-rad mount it attaches to to get the plate far forward enough where you won't hit it pedaling. That being set, I found it such a pain mounting the bag to the mounting plate that I ended up just strapping it to the downtube above the water bottle. Holds on very nicely and good volume for spares, first aid kit, etc up there and still fit a full size water bottle.


Thanks for following up.

I can't figure out what to do with those bosses on the top tube. Seems like a waste to me. With my pump, mini tool and bear spray on the down tube, and my tube, chain tool and a few other things in the compartment on the downtube, maybe I am searching for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Still though, seems like a waste.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

So they say not to mount a water bottle cage there. Which leads to:


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?
> 
> I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.
> 
> Owen


@ForbiddenBikeCo Is there any update on the SS idler? Thanks.


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## rick123 (Oct 2, 2007)

Hi there. Does anyone know the weight of the XL frame? Thanks


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

rick123 said:


> Hi there. Does anyone know the weight of the XL frame? Thanks


Mine weighs 3612g with seatpost clamp, axle, and the chain guide.


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## rick123 (Oct 2, 2007)

jwick said:


> Mine weighs 3612g with seatpost clamp, axle, and the chain guide.


Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.

Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.

The forbidden size specific geometry seems to make a lot of sense!

Thank you


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

@rick123 I think size large is 3080g at fanatik’s webpage. I havent put mine on a scale yet as i didnt have time to build it yet etc.
The frame doesnt look just ace, its the best looking/highest quality frame i have ever seen in person and i am very glad because it was the most impulsive bike related purchase i have ever done. (Never ridden/saw one before)
My frame arrived at the bikeshop i ordered it with a very small chip in the front and Forbidden replaced it immediately no questions asked. Just a thing to consider besides the weight of the bike 😀


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

rick123 said:


> Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.
> 
> Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.
> 
> ...


Rubbing isn't an issue, very quiet, I can't detect any additional friction.

Climbing with the 450mm stays is much better for me, it's steep and rocky on my trails but the Druid not only pedals well it has very good rear wheel traction. I simply don't slip/lose traction or spit gravel anymore.

Short chainstays are the worst for tall people. My XL Foxy was a handful and steep climbs because of the short rear end.

Best thing to do is demo one.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

If youre a weight weenie dont buy this bike, the Rocky Mountain bikes are super light but this thing rides better than anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

rick123 said:


> Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.
> 
> Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.
> 
> ...


I totally agree with Danlovesbikes on all accounts. I run a cassette with an 11 tooth and it hasn't been a problem since I got the b tension sorted out.

I too own a TB3 XL and will keep it for smoother higher milage rides. I have the same problem with the STA but have slammed the seat forward, run the flip chip for the steepest STA. I'm lucky enough to be able to keep both but If I had to choose I'd hands down keep the Druid and have two sets of wheels for it. This bike has exceeded every expectation.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

csm024 said:


> I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.





KineticFear said:


> I was also about to pull trigger on an 11/6 so information is helpful to me as well. Any comments on the difficulty to adjust the rebound due to the placement?





rpearce1475 said:


> I ended up getting an 11-6 on the sale price. I had one sitting around from one of my old bikes that I wanted to get converted. Conversion price per Push would be $550 due to needing the side-stack design and changing length of the shock. With the sale price at $750 and now being able to sell my old one as is, it works out to at worst $300 for a 11-6 shock. I'll take it!





cheezwhip said:


> The DPX2 just feels "wound-up" or "tight" - really makes the bike super poppy. I want a little more suppleness off the top.
> 
> Am still considering the 11-6 too...





Dude! said:


> The PUSH 11-6 sale is calling to me as well. I believe it would be great to try on the Druid based on other observations with the DPX2. However, the DPX2 works well. Curious why you went for this? Haha I need some nudging!


For those of you who threw down on an 11-6, what weight spring did you get and what is your bodyweight unclothed?

My spring weight is 450 lbs and I am 185 lbs out of the shower. Curious to see what others are at and what they think is the optimum spring weight.

Thanks.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

209.5x57 Fox X2 is the way to go, message me for more info. I sold my tractive tuned Super Deluxe Coil because this shock was so good. The suspension guy owns a Druid so its well tested. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## TylerVernon (Nov 10, 2019)

I wonder how a Manitou Mara would work on it?


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid. 

My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting. 

TL;DR
Would you save weight or go full coil?


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.
> 
> My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.
> 
> ...


The Lightest I ever had mine was 33lbs exactly, that was with 11spd, Michelin Wild Enduros, and the stock DPX2. Now I have tires I like better Assegai DD and Dissector DH casing, 12spd, Fox X2 and im right around 34.5, I like the bike way better in the heavier trim. I always use Alloy wheels and cranks because they are cheaper and I dont have to worry about them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.
> 
> My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.
> 
> ...


I'm running a Lyrik, alloy 2kg wheelset, Minions F&R. No idea on weight but have the stock DPX2. I'm taking 10sec of trails I've done a hundred times and it climbs sublimely. I would like to go coil eventually but I am quite liking the air at present.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.
> 
> My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.
> 
> ...


If you want full coil, go full coil. Going to air will save some mass, but if you like the coil sprung ride, then a pound or two shouldn't be a factor.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

*New Druid, Grinding noise when climbing*

Hey there,
I just finished my Druid last week, and it looks great! I'm loving the moss/bar of soap color! The light color is a nice contrast to all of the black components, with a splash of ano-orange.

I took it out Fruita Colorado and rode for 1 1/2 hours, just to see how it does. This bike climbs better than anything else I have ridden, including DW designed suspension. There is no "pogo" effect when rolling the rear wheel over an obstacle when climbing. IOW, my butt stayed planted on the seat during the climbs. The rear wheel just rolls over and doesn't "pop" over. As for the downhill, I felt that the bike felt plush, but I need more riding time to get a better feel for that. I came from 27.5 and the handling on this bike feels so good and capable to thread tight lines. It did not feel like a monster truck on the trail. This bike is exceeding my expectations so far. One thing though, a grinding noise when pedaling under tension, like when climbing. More on that below.

A couple of things to help others possibly:

It took some trial and error to get the shifting right. We figured that out with the help of Fanatik over the phone and my local bike shop. I am running 12 speed sram and setting the B-screw correctly is so important. You have to have the sag set correctly (approx. 25%) and have the rider sit on the bike, while the mechanic sets the B-screw using the red plastic guide from Sram. We were scratching our heads about the crappy shifting; then we adjusted the B-screw according to this procedure and viola! Perfect shifting!

So the grinding noise, when climbing problem. When we got the shifting and chainline figured out, the grinding noise has decreased quite a bit. But it is still there a little bit when climbing. I can hear it and kinda feel it - it feels like a vibration while turning the cranks on the climb. As far as we can tell, we are not rubbing on the E13 chainguide anywhere. The bike is shifting perfect. The only thing that we are thinking about now are the cranks. I recycled a set of older E13 TRS+ cranks 68/73 threaded BB, with direct mount boost chainring. These cranks worked on another 2019 carbon bike great.

But I think I might need to modernize my crank setup with this drivetrain. So I ordered a set of Sram DUB GX cranks, BB and Eagle 12-speed specific ring. The guys at Fanatik told me that this combo is working great for them, with no problems. So my fingers are crossed. I'll know in a few days, and will report back.

I think more than anything it might just be my running an 11-speed spec'd chainring on a 12 speed chain. I didn't know there were 12-speed specific chainrings. There doesn't seem to be alot of options out there yet.

Has anyone else had any unwanted noise/vibration when cranking uphill?

Here's my new beauty!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> If you want full coil, go full coil. Going to air will save some mass, but if you like the coil sprung ride, then a pound or two shouldn't be a factor.


X2.

I have wasted so much money over the years playing the weight game, only to realize it matters so little (within reason). That said, the stock DPX2 kicks ass. I threw down on an 11-6 only because of the deeply discounted pricing on them at the time (and because the relentless squeaking of the DPX2 almost drove me insane).

I actually think that the linkage in the Druid is so wicked, that almost any shock is going to shine. The problem will not be with the shock, but with the fork, even a coil fork. I don't know where, but a poster above kinda early on said his ACS3 36 could not keep up with the stock DPX2. I believe it.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

I went 160 on my fork, after pushing the rear travel out to 134 it feels super balanced. I think im going to also throw in a 1 degree angleset.

I felt almost no disadvantage going to 160, the nice thing about an angle set is it actually steepens the seat angle a little bit too. I did the math and it should get me to about a 64.2 degree head angle which I have liked a lot on other bikes, I know they dont reccomend it but may as well try it, I try to only ride steeper stuff so keep that in mind that what im looking for is different.

Slacking out the bike helps with hitting rough stuff faster and the rear end will always keep up, it is incredible how good 134mm of travel can be.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I took the plunge. I know there is a longer travel bike in the works, however this fits exactly what I need for riding in the PNW. It should be ready for pickup around the first or 2nd week of April because I'm putting on elevenSix's newest shock. The build looks like this. 

Forest Moss
ElevenSix HBO shock
36 Float 29" GRIP2 150mm / ACS3 conversion
CK headset, spacer kit and bottom bracket
Shimano XT Gruppo with 4 pot brakes
DT swiss XM 481 with 240s hubs
Renthal apex stem w/ fatbar carbon handlebars and grips
PNW bachelor dropper
DMR Vaults


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

First few rides, it is so feckin good. I don't know how to describe it, maybe I can't tell it has suspension, except I have traction and every impact is cushioned. Just wish the front end felt half as nice (lyrik ultimate).


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Mgrantorser said:


> First few rides, it is so feckin good. I don't know how to describe it, maybe I can't tell it has suspension, except I have traction and every impact is cushioned. Just wish the front end felt half as nice (lyrik ultimate).


That's the issue with this bike. The stock shock seems to blow away any fork - air, coil, whatever. The rear end of this bike is just THAT good.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> I took the plunge. I know there is a longer travel bike in the works, however this fits exactly what I need for riding in the PNW. It should be ready for pickup around the first or 2nd week of April because I'm putting on elevenSix's newest shock. The build looks like this.
> 
> Forest Moss
> ElevenSix HBO shock
> ...


Nice.

I "sprung" for the old 11-6. I am eagerly awaiting the reviews at PB and elsewhere which will undoubtedly compare the new gen 11-6 to the last gen. Little doubt the new one is an improved shock but for the price at which I got mine, i am not going to be too disappointed.

Well, okay. Maybe I will be. Lol.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice.
> 
> I "sprung" for the old 11-6. I am eagerly awaiting the reviews at PB and elsewhere which will undoubtedly compare the new gen 11-6 to the last gen. Little doubt the new one is an improved shock but for the price at which I got mine, i am not going to be too disappointed.
> 
> Well, okay. Maybe I will be. Lol.


This forum and your posts sold me. I've been following this thread since it started and as soon as Forbidden started posting my interest was solidified. When Lew started his video channel I pulled the trigger. All that just happened to work with push dropping their shock and fanatik working with me. In for a penny in for many pounds.

I was planning on riding a bunch of different bikes but the thought of waiting till July if they sold out made me crazy. I've bought cars without driving them so this only fits my mental capacity to wait.


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

how did the druit perform on bike park ? it has only short travel front end & rear


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> This forum and your posts sold me. I've been following this thread since it started and as soon as Forbidden started posting my interest was solidified. When Lew started his video channel I pulled the trigger. All that just happened to work with push dropping their shock and fanatik working with me. In for a penny in for many pounds.
> 
> I was planning on riding a bunch of different bikes but the thought of waiting till July if they sold out made me crazy. I've bought cars without driving them so this only fits my mental capacity to wait.


Oh-oh. This is why I need to reign things in.

I hope you love it as much as I do. I bought mine sight unseen too. First time I did that in 20+ years of biking, and damned glad I did.

The only real question mark for me at this point is the shock, now that I have switched to the 11-6. The DPX2 was incredible, except for the relentless high pitched squeak from it, which almost drove me crazy.

Love your build. Rock solid top to bottom.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Oh-oh. This is why I need to reign things in.
> ....
> Love your build. Rock solid top to bottom.


The next time you're south of the border in galbi this summer let me know and you can try it out. I'm 86-87kg for my spring rates depending on whose asking.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> The next time you're south of the border in galbi this summer let me know and you can try it out. I'm 86-87kg for my spring rates depending on whose asking.


Thanks. Likewise.

We are in the ball park, weight wise. We can a/b the last and current gen 11-6.

450 lb spring?


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I'll be running a 475, if it's too harsh I'll switch to a 450. Coming from a hardtail with this being my first FS I'm not sure anything will be too harsh right away.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

This has been posted above but it's worth posting again, if for no other reason than to keep the stoke meter high during these troubling times of COVID-19.

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Frames,7/Forbidden/Druid,27121#product-reviews/3648/expand

"We have always been drawn to short travel bikes with a gravity bias, so we reached out to our friends in Cumberland, BC to get ourselves the Druid for a few months of riding in Squamish, BC..."

"...we never felt the need to use the compression lever on the shock to help with efficiency and very few can match its technical climbing prowess..."

"Regardless of what section we rode and how we rode it, the Druid was planted and confidence-inspiring when we dropped our heels, and poppy and playful when we jibbed about. On the shorter punchy bits, the lack of pedal feedback meant we could put power to the ground easily without blowing our feet off, and the shorter-than-usual travel meant we could climb far more efficiently than the enduro bikes that tend to frequent the trail most of the time..."

"Regardless of feeling a little badly about dragging a 130mm bike up the chairlift, the Druid took rougher trails in stride and was an absolute rocket ship on trails like Ninja Cougar. After being so fun on the rolling, playful trails in Squamish we were impressed that the Druid also felt planted and composed on such high-speed, abusive trails."

"The Druid makes a strong case as the pound-for-pound most capable bike we have thrown a leg over. It is energetic and nimble at lower speeds, and as the speeds and terrain get more demanding, the bike lengthens and settles into itself. Forbidden has created an extremely versatile bike, and the Druid confirms that the idler excels in applications other than just DH bikes. In a place like the Sea to Sky corridor, the terrain is intimidating enough that many folks rely on a long-travel bike for the handful of gnarly bits within a given ride, but a shorter travel bike like the Druid is capable enough to absorb the heavy impacts, and much more fun everywhere in between."

"...short travel "downcountry" bikes do not inspire the same confidence, nor can they withstand the abuse in a place like Squamish. The Forbidden Druid is truly a downhiller's trail bike: capable enough for reckless abandon, efficient enough that a recreational cross-country race is not out of the question and playful enough that mellower trails are still engaging. The Trifecta suspension design is proof that the high idler concept is effective and efficient in places other than the downhill track, and we would bet our bottom dollar that a race-oriented 160mm Forbidden offering would be an absolute weapon. The Druid is a great option for anyone but is best suited to those looking for a mini-DH bike that will allow them to climb efficiently and descend like hooligans."


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

Noticing that the new Deviate Highlander and Kavenz HSP do NOT utilize a lower pulley, is it really necessary for the Druid to have one? Seems like some of the resistance complaints could be mitigated?

Saw pics of the 170 travel Norco Range HSP monster.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.


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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

Mgrantorser said:


> I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.


It's cheaper than the Druid (in the UK). The headline price is a little misleading for those outside of the EU, as it includes 20% VAT, which residents of the rest of the world don't pay.


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## rockcrusher (Aug 28, 2003)

Mgrantorser said:


> I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.


I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!


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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

rockcrusher said:


> I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!


I've got one, they are incredible. Price wise they really aren't that bad, compared with much bigger brands. Ordered a highlander too 

https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/deviate-cycles-1130851.html


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

rockcrusher said:


> I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!


Don't decide against the Druid based upon pure rear travel alone. You need to demo one set up properly. I've had 150/160mm rear travel bikes and I'm taking chunks of time off previous PR's on trails I know extremely well.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

Watching Forbidden's EWS rider Lew's YouTube channel and the things he is riding with this bike shows just how far it can be pushed.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

How fast are you guys going through bearings? I toasted the upper pulley bearing in around 3 months riding, just under 20 rides. Almost all rides in dry desert conditions


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> How fast are you guys going through bearings? I toasted the upper pulley bearing in around 3 months riding, just under 20 rides. Almost all rides in dry desert conditions


I killed mine too. Then again, I also killed the bearings in my DT 240 front hub.

I suspect the bearings in the idler were from a defective batch. It sounds like a lot of us ended up replacing them after a few months of riding.

As an aside, mine were crunchy as hell, but I did not notice any driveline drag. Zero. With my new bearings (that I have not yet tried), I wonder whether I will be EVEN faster on my Druid (or if I will be less fatigued on long rides). I can't imagine it getting any better but I'm kinda excited to see how how things feel with the new bearings.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

What tools will I need to do a full idler pulley swap out? I don't have any bike specific tools so I want to start building before the bike arrives.


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

Just a 5mm hex key and you are set to go. i just unmounted my idler. Bearing is toast also on mine, and the teeth of the pulley don't look glorious either.

Maybe that would be something for Forbidden to take care of?


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

If you are swapping the full pulley just a hex as mentioned. If swapping bearings you will need a bearing press. Mike, I noticed a huge amount of drag on mine. Was very noticeable from one ride to the next, prompting me to take the drivetrain apart searching for the reason and found the pulley bearings toasted. Also, to answer your earlier question (sorry forgot to respond) I'm 205 ready to ride and on a 475# spring. Rides great


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

danlovesbikes said:


> Don't decide against the Druid based upon pure rear travel alone. You need to demo one set up properly. I've had 150/160mm rear travel bikes and I'm taking chunks of time off previous PR's on trails I know extremely well.


X2

I wouldn't get too caught up in 10mm of travel. The bike is going to be so god damned fast you wont even worry.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> X2
> 
> I wouldn't get too caught up in 10mm of travel. The bike is going to be so god damned fast you wont even worry.


Bahahaha Marcus! Funny but true!

Check out post #493 :thumbsup:


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Heya does anyone have a size large or XL frame they would like to sell?


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

Gloworm Manufacture said:


> I've just fitted the EXT Storia V3. Not ridden it yet but will report back after Friday.......Fits nicely and all reports are that it performs as well as the 11-6.
> 
> View attachment 1274933


Was there an update on this at some point?

Thanks.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

Hey Druid gang

I've been following this thread for quite some time.I recently sold my previous bike (Pivot FB29),which was great but a bit too much for my riding most of the time.

I've narrowed down my choices for my next bike between the Druid and SC HT2.

Have to say i like the Druid more in general but i have some concerns about sizing.

I'm 184cm tall (84cm inseam),according to company's size chart i'm for a Large frame.Looking at geo numbers tho i'm wondering if the bike's gonna feel a bit cramped.

I don't like using long stems (40-45mm stem is my choice).

XL on the other hand is a bit long for my liking (485 reach,1263 wheelbase ect..).

Any feedback from guys my height on a Large?

I've read also about some shifting issues and chain rubbing on the seatstay when using smaller cogs (planning to use a 12s Shimano 10-51 cassette).Have those issues been addressed for you?

Also how's the customer service has been for you?Bit skeptical on this as well (considering SC customer service has been stellar for most ppl i know and for me personally in the past).

Sorry if asking too much but there's really no chance of demoing a Druid where i live,i have to go blind on this.

Thanks in advance guys


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Hey EV07,
I have 6 desert rides on my Druid so far. I'm on an extended stay in Tucson, from Western Colorado. It took me a little bit to get shifting, cranks and suspension sorted, but now I'm there. This is my first 29er, since riding 27.5 bikes for years. With my ride yesterday, I really started to feel comfortable with the handling on this bike. The first few rides, I wasn't sure. Here a few things I have learned:

I'm 5-10," 145 - 150lbs loaded up, riding a size large with a 50mm stem. The fit is perfect. I have an inch of spacers under a Hope 50 stem with short riser bars, and the stack feels pretty good. I may get higher rise bars. If I were you and considering a shorter stem, I would look at getting an XL. I have 170psi in the DPX2, which is around 30 - 35% sag. The rear suspension is working very well for the ups and downs. One phrase that keeps getting tossed around is that this bike "punches above its weight class." I hate that phrase...I would say that this bike feels exactly like a 130mm travel bike. Which IMO is a good thing, for a trail bike. 140mm would have been even better, but I'm happy with it. 

I have a 150mm Fox 36 on mine, which I'm disappointed in with small bump compliance. I'm switching up to a MRP Ribbon in a few days; I'm a big fan of their forks, and they are made 90 miles from my home. I picked one up for 20% off on Backcountry, so I went for it. I know that some are riding this frame with a 160mm fork, and I may try that with the Ribbon I ordered, but for now it will be at 150mm. One thing about going to 160mm, the stack would probably be right where I want it, but the reach would be 5mm shorter which I could handle with 780mm bars (I'm at 760mm), so I may try 160mm out for fit reasons and not just for more travel. I would like slightly more stack, but then again I don't want to get too light on the front wheel either. 

That said, at least one person on here has asked if these bikes have the "in the bike" feel or "above the bike." I've come to the conclusion that with the steeper seat tube angles on all frames these days, all modern frames put the rider a little more on top of the bike, but that said, the Druid does feel more "in the bike" to me. I think that has a lot to do with the 29" wheels. 

Shifting: I have had no problems with a sram 50-10 cassette. No problems with the 10 tooth cog. I am running a 30t ring in front on Sram Dub cranks. I don't know how to measure the stated 52mm chainline on this bike; when I measure from frame CL, I get more than 52mm. Forbidden should maybe put the symbol graphics on the seat tube and give a chainline measurement from the center of graphics; that might be helpful. But the shop and I figured out how to get the cranks in vertical alignment with the pully, with the spacers that came with the Dub bottom bracket, which I believe is the main thing that matters. The bike is mostly quiet and shifting has been precise. 

Customer service: When I got my frame the rubber protector on the seat stay was pealing off a little. Fanatik bike got in touch with Forbidden, and they sent me a new one immediately, so props to both Fanatik and Forbidden. I will say that the owners have chimed in here and I think if an issue pops up, you can probably reach out and get a response pretty quick. One thing I think they need to do better is finally post a setup guide on their website, which would have helped me out a lot with the trial and error I experienced with cranks and bottom bracket. They could easily test out a few crank systems that are commonly used and post the exact spacer line out that they recommend. There really aren't that many new cranks styles out there anymore. This bike has been out for a year, and the "setup guide" is still stated as "coming soon" on their website. Since the Druid is being sold as a "frame only," and it's a really unusual one at that, they really should get a guide posted on the website. Please, Forbidden, for the love of all that is holy, please post a setup guide! 

And I see some people are wearing out the pully prematurely. My opinion is that those should be warrantied; I hope they are. I bought my frame in February, and I was told that it has an updated pully bearing. So far, I'm having no problems, but I plan on ordering a backup pully system. Because that is the one thing that would keep someone sidelined from riding, if that part fails.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Bahahaha Marcus! Funny but true!
> 
> Check out post #493 :thumbsup:


High pivot witchcraft is real son!!

Oh and that shock is sexy AF


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

@Wazzou

Thanks very much man for your time and the detailed reply.

I'm not interested in sizing up to an XL frame as the bike will feel a bit long for me.Ideally something between L and XL would be the perfect fit.

Regarding your view on rear travel,that's interesting to hear.Most of the reviews i've read online suggest that the bike feels like a longer travel one because of the suspension design ect..


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

LOLMG! #vangirlyuka and #BCPOV are riding Druids with NOBL wheels in 2020!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> LOLMG! #vangirlyuka and #BCPOV are riding Druids with NOBL wheels in 2020!


She lost me at SRAM NX.

That is some crazy **** indeed.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> I'm 5-10," 145 - 150lbs loaded up... I have 170psi in the DPX2, which is around 30 - 35% sag. The rear suspension is working very well for the ups and downs. One phrase that keeps getting tossed around is that this bike "punches above its weight class." I hate that phrase...I would say that this bike feels exactly like a 130mm travel bike. Which IMO is a good thing, for a trail bike. 140mm would have been even better, but I'm happy with it...


No offence but if I were you I would try letting some air out of your shock. You are literally the only person I have heard say this about the rear end of that bike.

I previously rode a 160/160 Norco Range, also an Owen Pemberton creation, and a notoriously plush bike. The Druid? Yup. It does in fact feel like a much longer travel bike to me, without all the loose, uncontrolled squishiness.

I am 185 to 188 lbs out of the shower. So add clothes, shoes and gear to that. I tried measuring sag and ran the shock at 225psi. It almost resulted in detached retinas. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and landed on anywhere from 175 to 195 as an optimum PSI. Maybe you ride it harder than me and need more PSI. Not sure. What I do know is that I would be very disappointed if my Druid rode the way you are describing.

I would be tinkering with the shock settings if I were you. It sounds like you are nowhere near the sweet spot. And it's a W-I-D-E sweet spot on that bike with that shock.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

I never have issues on the rear end of my bike, 175 psi in a Float X2 with no tokens. The rear works so good, it is mind blowing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> I never have issues on the rear end of my bike, 175 psi in a Float X2 with no tokens. The rear works so good, it is mind blowing.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100% agreed. Completely consistent with my experience. I dream about that rear end. It's magical.

Guys are running PUSH coil forks that can't come close to keeping up with the stock DPX2 on that bike.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> 100% agreed. Completely consistent with my experience. I dream about that rear end. It's magical.


I am right at 30% sag, I went deeper and it honestly was working too good. I think if people are finding the bike feels harsh they actually need to ditch volume spacers and up the pressure. Way to many people think that more spacers and less pressure makes the rear end track better. You spend more time in the bottom of your travel than you would think, the druid is plenty progressive enough to play with no spacers.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> I am right at 30% sag, I went deeper and it honestly was working too good. I think if people are finding the bike feels harsh they actually need to ditch volume spacers and up the pressure. Way to many people think that more spacers and less pressure makes the rear end track better. You spend more time in the bottom of your travel than you would think, the druid is plenty progressive enough to play with no spacers.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting. I ran the shock stock. It was like you say - mind blowing.

I picked up a last gen 11-6 at a respectable discount. I am very skeptical that it can materially improve on what I was getting out of the stock DPX2, but I am about to find out soon.

Mind blowing.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. I ran the shock stock. It was like you say - mind blowing.
> 
> I picked up a last gen 11-6 at a respectable discount. I am very skeptical that it can materially improve on what I was getting out of the stock DPX2, but I am about to find out soon.
> 
> Mind blowing.


Try the DPX2 with no spacers, I am a die hard follower of MTB Telly on Youtube, this is how he has found the DPX2 works best.

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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> She lost me at SRAM NX.
> 
> That is some crazy **** indeed.


Yah, that NX derailleur is completely clapped out. Between the two of them, they have 180k subscribers on Youtube, which appears to be enough to move the needle for Forbidden. It will be interesting to see what they do this year.


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## tubbnation (Jul 6, 2015)

Maiden voyage this morning ... XL, love it!


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi. 

But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that. 

Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Wazzou said:


> Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.
> 
> But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.
> 
> Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?





Wazzou said:


> Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.
> 
> But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.
> 
> Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?





Wazzou said:


> Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.
> 
> But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.
> 
> Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?


If you are confused where to measure from, empty all the air out, push it untill the shock bottoms out, measure 55mm. It should be beasured from the edge of the dust wiper. If this thing feels harsh make sure you have the LSC all the way open or only 2 clicks on. The rebound is probably one of the most important tuning aspects, im usually 1 click slower than the Fox reccomendation, too fast and the bike wont track the ground, too slow and it will pack.

Here were my settings on the DPX2 that felt as good as anything ive ever ridden. I weight 170 geared up. Clicks counted from closed. I have been flying latley with these settings.

Fox DPX2
185 PSI 0 tokens 33% Sag
LSC: Open
Rebound: -10

Fox Float X2 30% Sag
175 psi 0 Tokens
LSC: -17
HSC: -17
LSR: -13
HSR: -14

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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!

Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!
> 
> Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?


I am drafting a long response to your post #592. Stay tuned.

I agree - LSC and HSC wide open on the DPX2. All the time. On the climbs, on the downs, and everything in between. Set and forget.

Comprehensive response coming...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wazzou said:


> Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.
> 
> But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.
> 
> Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?


I am no suspension expert by any stretch, although I have been biking seriously for 20+ years and have set up numerous bikes using 2 ShockWizes I have borrowed from my LBS. While I don't always agree with the direction the ShockWizes are taking me, using them has really helped me understand how suspension settings work in concert with each other, and I have been able to learn what works for me.

I too measured the sag on the Druid's DPX2. Bearing in mind that it was a bit of a PITA for me to get a reliable measurement given the enclosed nature of the stanchion, at 30% I was at 225 PSI.

My maiden voyage was a 5 hour hammerfest with some complete animals I sometimes refer to as my biking buddies. We hit lots of legit black and I was literally sore after the ride. I actually attended at my physiotherapist the next day to get some needling done in my upper body. I was very sad, even anxious, and felt like I had made a mistake buying the Druid.

I then called my LBS. I have been loyal to those guys for 2+ decades. Even though I didn't buy the Druid from them, they assured me it was a rocket ship (a few of the guys there have buddies on VCR Island who had been riding the Druid, so they knew all about its magic). They graciously offered to lend me 2 ShockWizes to at least get the suspension in the zone, so I could tweak from there.

Side note...

My f'n lowers on my 36 got some kind of reverse vacuum going on at the same time, which also contributed to the rough ride at 225 psi, so the rough ride was not all as a result of the shock. I realized this while calibrating the ShockWix on the fork, which requires airing down. So...back to the shop. I hate to go down so many gopher holes on what should be a short response, but that fork was converted from a 140 to a 150mm when I moved it from my Norco Sight (I thereafter sold the frame) to my Druid. I assume when the conversion took place, the grease got jammed where it should not have been, causing the vacuum.

***end of side note***

Back to the trail head. After a lap on one of my favourite local blasters (Merlin View Loop) the ShockWiz told me to air down big time in the shock from 225. After a few more laps on Merlin, I had it nailed at 195 psi, at least as far as the ShockWiz was concerned. LSC and HSC were both wide open, with maybe 3 or 4 clicks of rebound from wide open. Stock spacers - I did not disassemble the air can to see what was in there.

I rode for a while like this and it was glorious. I would finish a ride and would immediately be thinking about the next ride. All day at work I would have a smile on my face. People actually commented that I had never looked happier, with the usual stuff about getting laid, etc. After spending 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s of thousands of dollars on bikes, for the first time in my life, I felt like I had reached the holy land with the Druid. My God - if I could can that feeling and sell it, I would be a multi-billionaire overnight.

Then I stumbled on the video I set out in post #143. As I stated there:
I agree with so many of this guy's comments, including that it is a bit difficult to describe how wicked the pedalling is on this bike.

The reason I am posting this though is this...

I am 185 out of the shower. I measured 30% SAG on the DPX2 and came up with around 225. I rode at this PSI. It was good. *[in hindsight, this is NOT correct] *I then lowered it to 195. That was better. Then, following the lead of this YT reviewer, I tried 175 PSI today. Christ. Even better. A LOT better. No pedal strikes or perceived inefficiency climbing, and OMG - the downs. THE DOWNS!

I am going to try 170 tomorrow.

It just keeps getting better and better. I hope I never wake up from this beautiful dream...​
And again in post #418:
Consider experimenting a bit with the PSI in your DPX2.

I am 185 lbs unclothed and had set the PSI WAY too high initially, in accordance with my rough measurement of the sag. I was at 225 PSI initially. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and dropped it to 195 (LSC at 0, rebound at 4 clicks from open). MUCH better.

Then I watched this:

[same video]

Based on the comments in that video, I tried dropping it to 175. Really good as well. I rode that way for a while and enjoyed it. But then I went a couple of weeks on my hardtail exclusively and when I got back on the Druid, the ass end felt a little wallowy so I went back up to 195, where it has remained to date. Anyway, anywhere between 175 and 195 works well for me.

There doesn't seem to be a bunch of micro-fiddling necessary with the Druid to find some exceedingly narrow sweet spot, which has been the case with a few other bikes I have owned.

Don't be afraid to bring a shock pump on the trail and play around with it...​
*See also the comments from the man himself *in post #408:
Aim for 17mm to 19mm measured sag. Most people seem to prefer close to 19mm.

*Unless you're heavy you'll probably run the compression circuit on the DPX2 almost fully open.*​
*And most importantly, Owen says* this in post #465:
An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. *Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range.* In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.

*You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.*

*Set your rebound as fast as you can ride it *without getting bucked. With shorter travel bikes such as the Druid a nice fast rebound allows them to ride higher in their travel over repeated hits.

*We found the stock .2 token to work well for most riders.*​
There are probably plenty of other posts above worth quoting too.

Anyway, I have to venture out for some milk in this post-pandemic Mad Maxx of a world.

*TL; DR - despite the occasional wishy-washiness of some of my posts, given that you are "145 - 150lbs loaded up", I would lower the PSI in your DPX2 to about 130, make sure you have your LSC and HSC wide open, maybe 3 or 4 clicks of rebound from wide open and give it a shot. This is all consistent with my experience to date, the experience of the VCR Island dude, Island Bike Life (who made the video I referenced above) and, most importantly, the genius who created the Druid - Owen Pemberton himself. The linkage is plenty progressive enough to prevent bottoming out or even pedal strikes, even at lower pressures. Don't be afraid to experiment at what you believe to be beyond the outer limits of reasonableness. Carry a shock pump. Take your time, stop and adjust, and have fun. Put the Strava away for the day.

*Good luck and keep us posted.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Wazzou said:


> Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!
> 
> Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?


If the sag is good and it feels too harsh, are you bottoming out on big hits? Lowering air pressure in theory is going to help on smaller bumps but if its super soft off the top and then super firm from running tokens you blow through the soft part right away and slam into an invisible wall. All im saying is you can only go so low on pressure before you need to remove spacers, otherwise the bike will feel inconsistent depending on the type of impact.

Dont give up on the bike untill you try this, everyone always tries to lower pressure to fix everything. If you are 150 lbs I would reccomend 160psi 0 Tokens, LSC fully open, Rebound 11 clicks from closed. Measure sag, if its 30% or more run it, if its below 30% lower pressure untill you are atleast 30% sag. The DPX2 is very progressive so you can probably run 33% and still not bottom harshly depending what you ride and how aggressive you are.

I dont ride the DPX2 anymore because my brother needed a 210x55 for his Rocky Mountain Altitude so it is on his bike. My terrain is fairly steep and technical, usually -30% grade trails and a mix of loose and rocky as well as some hardpack.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Anyone see this?






I like to color, I reached out to see if it is a wrap or something but no answer. I also
noticed that the female rider has some cool forbidden tee shirts on in a color other
than black.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I hadn't seen this or the video in post #582.

I like the matte green.









I like my matte black frame more though.

That looks like a stainless steel idler. It looks different from the original one I had that I pooched very quickly, as well as the replacement component I got.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

hey dudes. just read basically the entire thread with lots of interest and froth.

im currently riding a pimped out sb150 dentist bike. i like riding pretty techie stuff and have taken the bike through canada with my family. whistler, revelstoke, fernie. however i live in australia and try to ride as much as possible. i take it to our decent dh trails (where im decent but not totally pinned at 44 years old)

after coming across lewis buchanan's channel, i started taking a lot of notice about the rider and the bike. i couldnt believe he was riding a bike with the numbers he was stating and the type of terrain. my mind is still blown tbh.

now dont get me wrong, i love my dentist bike. im currently running it with dhx2 and smashpot in the front. it feels good over almost anything at my skill level.

so in saying that im thinking about planning for the next new bike day. i wont be getting the current version of the druid as i still want to get some life out of my 150.

however, i am thinking about upgrading to the new 11-6 shock with the goal of moving it across to when forbidden release their longer travel bike (just rumours i know).

taking this into account and doing a fair bit of reading. i dont see a problem in moving the 11-6 across when and if they release their longer travel bike? for those of you who got the 11-6 - was it worth it?

keep up the great information. this company seems to be kicking so many goals i cant wait to see what happens. (please release that longer travel bike)


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

@onawave

Not surprisingly, you're going to get a lot of pro-Druid comments here. Enduro Magazine did a review last spring that encapsulated the pros and cons of the Druid nicely. I wouldn't be too hard on your Yeti for being a dentist bike, as the Druid frame costs about the same. Worth it, IMHO.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That looks like a stainless steel idler. It looks different from the original one I had that I pooched very quickly, as well as the replacement component I got.


Hmmm. That looks like it might be a little more Shimano 12spd friendly as well...


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

Well, I only have comparison with the Yeti SB130. Wouldn't call the Yeti overly playful in comparison, I would describe it as racy, efficient. The Druid is a bit shorter in the wheelbase and the suspension is very progressive, the Yeti's is quite linear. The Druid doesn't have a racy character, it is a playful and very potent bike. It rides quite similar to the Transition Smuggler, but is more capable in the rough stuff though.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Hey Everyone, I read through this whole forum like a novel over the past two days, often times moving off into video and written review tangents. After consuming as research as possible, I am a believer. Before I buy new, I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone was interested in letting go of a size LARGE Druid frame / build? I am located in Los Angeles.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Hey Everyone, I read through this whole forum like a novel over the past two days, often times moving off into video and written review tangents. After consuming as research as possible, I am a believer. Before I buy new, I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone was interested in letting go of a size LARGE Druid frame / build? I am located in Los Angeles.











I will give up my toilet paper before my Druid.



Not long ago (maybe a few weeks ago - I have lost track of time post-Covid) I am almost positive Forbidden had large frames in both colours at its site. I see now that both colours are sold out again.

As of right now, Fanatik's site lists them as having one of each colour in stock. Not sure how accurate that is but if you don't mind paying MSRP, you may be able to lock one down if you act soon.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> @onawave
> 
> Not surprisingly, you're going to get a lot of pro-Druid comments here. Enduro Magazine did a review last spring that encapsulated the pros and cons of the Druid nicely. I wouldn't be too hard on your Yeti for being a dentist bike, as the Druid frame costs about the same. Worth it, IMHO.


ha - im cool with the dentist's bike. it still a sick bike.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> View attachment 1320475
> 
> 
> I will give up my toilet paper before my Druid.
> ...


Yea, I have been eying the Large Moss frame. Unfortunately, every time I build the bike, I am at $9k+ on Fanatik... I painstakingly priced it piece by piece too but it's pretty much breakeven. Since Forbidden doesn't offer full builds, all I want to do is spec it out ultra high end (dream build status minus AXS) and can't manage to compromise.


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## invol2ver (Jul 14, 2009)

if anybody is interested in a large black frame pm me.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

invol2ver said:


> if anybody is interested in a large black frame pm me.


I have sent you a PM.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Who's got a xl frame for sale?


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## Soupman (Apr 1, 2020)

After about a year of creeping in this thread here is my Druid! Threw the coil on this week, it's over sprung but I will order a softer SAR spring once this whole Covid thing calms down. Either way stoked on the bike super fun rides like a lot more bike than it is.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Soupman said:


> After about a year of creeping in this thread here is my Druid! Threw the coil on this week, it's over sprung but I will order a softer SAR spring once this whole Covid thing calms down. Either way stoked on the bike super fun rides like a lot more bike than it is.


That is one hell of a first post Soupman!

Bravo!

Nice build. We Are Ones. What crank and shock is that?


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That is one hell of a first post Soupman!
> 
> Bravo!
> 
> Nice build. We Are Ones. What crank and shock is that?


hope and cane creek double barrel coil right


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## Soupman (Apr 1, 2020)

senorbanana said:


> hope and cane creek double barrel coil right


Yes sir!


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## teknospeed (Jul 15, 2012)

Just saw this breakdown of the druid's suspension kinematics:


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

For all that I can say, this analysis really hits the nail on the head. I would agree in all aspects.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

teknospeed said:


> Just saw this breakdown of the druid's suspension kinematics:


Interesting. I have been waiting for PB to feature the Druid in its "Behind the Numbers" pieces, as they hinted that they would be.

This short video nails it except that my Druid is dead silent even in the roughest of chunk. Also, and I seem to be in a minority on this, but I have noticed no increased driveline drag, even when the bearings in the idler **** the bed on me.

One thing that really resonated with me was the observation that under braking the rear end squats slightly. While some may view this as a negative, as the reviewer mentioned, in super steep, technical downs, this is a big plus. As I have mentioned elsewhere in this thread, this is one of its traits that has allowed me to clean sections that have resulted in disaster riding other high end bikes, including some Horst link designs (I still have my smashed Garmin Forerunner from one such incident).


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## Mr.Trailpops (Apr 5, 2020)

Hey there fellow riders, I'm new here but I've already read through this entire thread. I've got about 150km on my 2020 Druid I built up in December. I'm looking forward to having some conversation with fellow Druid riders!


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

marcoton21 said:


> For all that I can say, this analysis really hits the nail on the head. I would agree in all aspects.


even though this a geeky analysis - it causes all kinds of bike envy.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

Do you know the torque spec if there is one for the shock bolts? If I want to switch out the coils on rides, I'm looking for the spec on those two bolts if there is one. 

Edit: 10nm, found it on the website.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> Do you know the torque spec if there is one for the shock bolts? If I want to switch out the coils on rides, I'm looking for the spec on those two bolts if there is one.
> 
> Edit: 10nm, found it on the website.


10NM

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## Mr.Trailpops (Apr 5, 2020)

I get a slight bit of rub on my chainstay protector to the point where it has worn a small groove into it. 
I'm running Shimano 12 speed XT with Race Face 30T ring.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/coolest-mountain-bike-brands-395435

Right now, everyone seems to love Forbidden as a company, and the Druid as a product.

I am starting to get a little freaked. I sure hope we can make some progress flattening the curve. In my area, the entire 2020 season, or at least a good chunk of it, is starting to look questionable.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/coolest-mountain-bike-brands-395435
> 
> Right now, everyone seems to love Forbidden as a company, and the Druid as a product.
> 
> I am starting to get a little freaked. I sure hope we can make some progress flattening the curve. In my area, the entire 2020 season, or at least a good chunk of it, is starting to look questionable.


whats your area?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/coolest-mountain-bike-brands-395435
> 
> Right now, everyone seems to love Forbidden as a company, and the Druid as a product.
> 
> I am starting to get a little freaked. I sure hope we can make some progress flattening the curve. In my area, the entire 2020 season, or at least a good chunk of it, is starting to look questionable.


Yah, it's looking like gravel and road in the Calgary area until mid-June or even later. They won't open Parks until social distancing stops, so that's kinda all we'll have. Even then, there is so much snow that we'd be riding sloppy trails until the end of May unless things warm up for an extended period.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Just finished up my new build, excited to shred it!


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

I dont know why the images got messed up like that


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Do you convert this bike to Enduro? 

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

senorbanana said:


> Just finished up my new build, excited to shred it!


Nice. Did you put high gloss Ride Wrap or Invisiframe on your frame? Maybe it's just the pics but the frame looks glossier than mine and the decals look more subdued.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Yah, it's looking like gravel and road in the Calgary area until mid-June or even later. They won't open Parks until social distancing stops, so that's kinda all we'll have. Even then, there is so much snow that we'd be riding sloppy trails until the end of May unless things warm up for an extended period.


What pinkrobe and I were greeted with this morning...









With the pandemic, the price of a barrel of oil costing less than a latte and now this unprecedented extension of winter into spring months, I am starting to wonder whether the gods, Mother Nature or whatever higher beings there are out there, are super pissed at all of us for something we have collectively done...


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice. Did you put high gloss Ride Wrap or Invisiframe on your frame? Maybe it's just the pics but the frame looks glossier than mine and the decals look more subdued.


The downtube has gloss, but the rest is still matte ridewrap, maybe the photo did something?


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

EV07 said:


> Hey Druid gang
> 
> I've been following this thread for quite some time.I recently sold my previous bike (Pivot FB29),which was great but a bit too much for my riding most of the time.
> 
> ...


Hey, So Im 183 cm on a large druid, and while i didnt testride the HT2, I did testride the Megatower in a large. Despite the numbers on paper, the druid feels a fair bit bigger. The MT was just a hair to small for me, and the druid fits like a glove. Im running a 50mm stem slammed with a one up 35mm bar. I may downsize to a 40 or 45mm stem, but will wait a season to really get comfortable with it first.

While I really like the fit, i should say I prefer somewhat shorter bikes than the industry is telling us fit right now. I was on a large chromag stylus last year and while it is super stable for straightline stuff, it was just too long for being an all round bike for me. I also demoed the new norco sight in a large and again, it felt too long. If i were more into as fast as possible descending in gnarly terrain I might have gone with the sight, but being a bit older this is a much better all rounder.

Re the rubbing, it rubs in the 10 tooth sprocket. It feels like this might clear if I reglue to chainstay protector down (forbiddens suggesiton) as some had air pockets when installed. Forbidden sent me a new chainstay protector super quickly, but as I never use the 10 tooth, im keeping it for when i bag the existing one.

At 184cm, you will probably be ok provided you prefer bike on the shorter side of industry trends, though if you want something longer you might want to go XL or for something else.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

FWIW I was trying to decide HT2 vs Druid vs Ripmo myself and am quite happy I went druid. At your size, I would def recommend skipping the HT2, I like a shorter bike and it was too short. Id be looking at Ripmo2 or druid if you dont want to go XL or something super long (aka norco sight2). I sat on a ripmo1 before getting the druid and in a parking lot it felt a bit longer. I also parking lotted a large evil offering and it felt too long for me. 

Re CS they were a bit **** at getting back to me at first (pre purchase), but it seems like they heard some feedback and my subsequent experiences trying to get in touch have been excellent. Same thing happened to WER1 (which i cant recommend enough), at first they didnt have capacity for CS, but they heard criticism and have responded awesomely.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Mgrantorser said:


> FWIW I was trying to decide HT2 vs Druid vs Ripmo myself and am quite happy I went druid. At your size, I would def recommend skipping the HT2, I like a shorter bike and it was too short. Id be looking at Ripmo2 or druid if you dont want to go XL or something super long (aka norco sight2). I sat on a ripmo1 before getting the druid and in a parking lot it felt a bit longer. I also parking lotted a large evil offering and it felt too long for me.
> 
> Re CS they were a bit **** at getting back to me at first (pre-purchase), but it seems like they heard some feedback and my subsequent experiences trying to get in touch have been excellent. Same thing happened to WER1 (which I can't recommend enough), at first they didnt have capacity for CS, but they heard criticism and have responded awesomely.


I am 6ft, I got a large, 40mm stem. I like to ride playful throwable bikes and this one is extremely good at in air control yet stable during the fast parts. I seem to like the large, but if you like riding "in the bike" more maybe an xl with a super short stem would work? Hard to recommend when we all have different opinions on what kind of bike we would want. I am having some slow shifts going into the smaller gears for the last 2-3 gears. does anyone have any tips?


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

So after running my fork at 160 for a bit I am going back to the standard 150. I am basically running the same pressure at 160 now and only using it like a 150 but it slackens the seat tube too much for climbing, also Rockshox just released a new air spring that rides higher in the travel so the 150 will perform better. I'm going to run a 1 degree works angleset because the slacker head angle made the bike way more confident and balanced with how good the rear end is. The angleset will steepen the seat tube a little more too which is a good thing, really wish this bike had a 77 degree seat tube angle at the minimum.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Does anyone have any tips to prevent the chain from rubbing the frame when in the smallest gear? I am running X01 eagle with a 32t chainring.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I picked up the bike and am very excited to take it out. I do notice the chain resting on the stay protector on the smallest cog, but overall I'm very happy.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

looking sick! you will be blown away


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

A quick update on my Druid going into its second season. I disassembled the entire linkage over the winter and found it very easy to work on! I also installed the V2 idler pulley which is wearing much better than the V1.

I also just recently installed a set of WeAreOne Faction rims laced to I9 Hydras. These wheels are the real deal and with Dumonde Tech grease are basically silent. I don't think I would ever go back to the Torches! The Push 11/6 is a new addition as well and for mtnbkrmike I'm 210lbs and my shock came with a 475# spring.

With no tube in tube cable routing on this frame I decided to install Jagwire housing damper on the dropper, rear brake, and derailleur housings. Took about 2 hours and was frustrating at times but the end result was worth it, a rattle free ride! (https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/internal-housing-damper)

Between the decrease in hub noise and random rattles, the overall drivetrain noise seems to be slightly louder when just pedaling along. Most if the chain noise seems to be coming from the idler pulley. I did install a new Wheels Manufacturing BB to replace the Raceface one so my crank spacing may just be slightly different than before. I'm wondering if using .5mm spacers and adjusting the chainline between the chainring and idler ever so slightly would decrease the noise if its directly in line?


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

@Mgrantorser

Thanks for the info man,appreciate it!

I pulled the trigger and ordered a Large,super stoked on this but sadly i have to wait till early summer to get the frame..

Start gathering the rest of the parts now..

Out of curiosity,what dropper post length are you running guys?Thinking about a 210mm Oneup for my L. Wondering how it'll fit..


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Hi all,

Word around the campfire is their enduro long travel model is due at the end of the year. 

Fingers crossed its as good as this one.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

If anyone feels like their bike is sluggish while climbing. I kept adding air pressure to make my bike feel more efficient, the odd thing is that the firmer I went the more sluggish the bike felt. I dropped the sag to more around 32/33 percent from the 28 percent I was at and it has climbed much more efficient with less bob. This is super weird to me but I have pretty consistent strava climbing times to back it up. My legs have also felt less taxed with the lower pressure. Maybe it has something to do with the rearward axle path, who knows? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

AKRCD47 said:


> If anyone feels like their bike is sluggish while climbing. I kept adding air pressure to make my bike feel more efficient, the odd thing is that the firmer I went the more sluggish the bike felt. I dropped the sag to more around 32/33 percent from the 28 percent I was at and it has climbed much more efficient with less bob. This is super weird to me but I have pretty consistent strava climbing times to back it up. My legs have also felt less taxed with the lower pressure. Maybe it has something to do with the rearward axle path, who knows?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting....I've been on my druid now for about 6 weeks. I kept thinking the same thing. I've gone from air pressure of like 170psi to 206psi. More or less I've been just messing around with it. My riding weight is about 164-172lbs (depending on the day). I've put a few 4000ft climb days in and kept thinking its a bit sluggish. I have started to think it was something to do rearward path as well. I'll try increasing the sag and see what happens.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

EV07 said:


> @Mgrantorser
> 
> Thanks for the info man,appreciate it!
> 
> ...


I had my old 170 Reverb fitted and have just fitted a new 210 One Up Dropper and it fits spot on for me at 5 foot 10.

Can get a pic if you want?


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

Hey everyone, long time member but never had much to add. Till now. Perfect Squamish bike in quiver of 3 (Chromag Rootdown and Devinci Hatchet)
My medium druid. This is easily one of the most capable bikes I've ever owned. Handles the chunk with grace and ease and can't get over how supportive and stable it feels in flat or counter graded corners. Here's my basic specs
Fox Factory 36 w/ Vorsprung Smashpot, full XO, Guide RSC, One up dropper, pedals, handlebar, 70c EDC pump and oval ring, carbon sram cranks, DT 1501 w/ Assegai and Aggressor.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

EV07 said:


> @Mgrantorser
> 
> Thanks for the info man,appreciate it!
> 
> ...


I'm 5'10" and use the 210 OneUp dropper with no issues on a large frame. With the included pins you can limit travel to as little as 190mm if it's too tall.


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

I'm 5'6"(on my toes). 150mm V2


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Im 6' 180 V2 on a large, I have a whole inch of post still, so 210 will def work


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

May have an opportunity for someone wanting to buy a Large Druid. I have really loved my Druid but as a guy stuck between sizes I think I ultimatley need a Medium size frame. I love the large but on longer rides my back cramps up so much from being bent over, rode my brothers medium frame and made up my mind. Not sure how much I want to go through shipping it, im located in the Norcal/Sacramento area. Have a friend interested in it but want to check here as well. Frame and Shock only, it has an X2.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

Thanks for your input regarding dropper post length guys!

Guess the 210 option will be fine.I had a BikeYoke Revive 185mm on my previous bike (FB29) which was great but i wouldn't mind a little more.As i see the Druid has a slightly shorter ST (450) compared to FB (457).

@_HENDO_ If you like to post a pic man,that would be great!


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

AKRCD47 said:


> May have an opportunity for someone wanting to buy a Large Druid. I have really loved my Druid but as a guy stuck between sizes I think I ultimatley need a Medium size frame. I love the large but on longer rides my back cramps up so much from being bent over, rode my brothers medium frame and made up my mind. Not sure how much I want to go through shipping it, im located in the Norcal/Sacramento area. Have a friend interested in it but want to check here as well. Frame and Shock only, it has an X2.


Color? Pics? Price? May be interested.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Large Frame Posted on Pinkbike. $2200 with Fox X2. $2000 for frame only, prefer to have local, buyer pays shipping. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

nice review from march 30th. reviewer took it to queenstown.

https://fortheriders.com/blogs/news..._8Lpljrrnl1Tp9d-eOmOC9doUIR9TXuSwTu-b_QeYZQ5g


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Looking for a 210x55 DPX2, any of the druid riders have a take off they want to sell?


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> Looking for a 210x55 DPX2, any of the druid riders have a take off they want to sell?


I got ya. Shoot me a message.


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

So I did my first tear down after 3 1/2 weeks and noticed the idler bearing was shot. Disappointing to say the least. Replaced and as I was putting back together, I tightened to 10 lbs and the bearing is seizing with the front retaining plate. Like its missing a spacer but none noted in schematics.
Upon further playing as I feel there is far too much chain drag, I removed the e13 bash guard and found it freed up a tonne of drag.
Anyone experience this? Waiting to hear back from Forbidden about replacing idler set up...


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

AKRCD47 said:


> If anyone feels like their bike is sluggish while climbing. I kept adding air pressure to make my bike feel more efficient, the odd thing is that the firmer I went the more sluggish the bike felt. I dropped the sag to more around 32/33 percent from the 28 percent I was at and it has climbed much more efficient with less bob. This is super weird to me but I have pretty consistent strava climbing times to back it up. My legs have also felt less taxed with the lower pressure. Maybe it has something to do with the rearward axle path, who knows?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm at 40% dynamic sag. Feels great. Not felt a bottom out yet and climbs very well.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

wow, Im running 30% on a float x2 and I feel bottom at least once a ride, gonna add a volume spacer


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

senorbanana said:


> wow, Im running 30% on a float x2 and I feel bottom at least once a ride, gonna add a volume spacer


Different shocks. I'm on the stock DPX2 which has a much smaller air can so will ramp a lot more.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

EV07 said:


> Thanks for your input regarding dropper post length guys!
> 
> Guess the 210 option will be fine.I had a BikeYoke Revive 185mm on my previous bike (FB29) which was great but i wouldn't mind a little more.As i see the Druid has a slightly shorter ST (450) compared to FB (457).
> 
> @_HENDO_ If you like to post a pic man,that would be great!











That's as low as it'll go in on my large frame. It's the newest version of the One Up dropper that's fitted.


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

_HENDO_ said:


> View attachment 1325881
> 
> 
> That's as low as it'll go in the frame. It's the newest version of the One Up dropper that's fitted.


I have the XL and the 210mm Oneup and it does fit all the way to the collar.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

I have been running the Fox 30mm Roller bearing mount in my X2, I wonder if that hurts the pedaling ability, I actually get a decent amount of pedal bob when climbing.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

renbuskeh said:


> So I did my first tear down after 3 1/2 weeks and noticed the idler bearing was shot. Disappointing to say the least. Replaced and as I was putting back together, I tightened to 10 lbs and the bearing is seizing with the front retaining plate. Like its missing a spacer but none noted in schematics.
> Upon further playing as I feel there is far too much chain drag, I removed the e13 bash guard and found it freed up a tonne of drag.
> Anyone experience this? Waiting to hear back from Forbidden about replacing idler set up...


The spec for the torque is 10 NM or 7.3 ft./lbs. not 10 ft./lbs. J


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## danlovesbikes (Jan 1, 2017)

AKRCD47 said:


> I have been running the Fox 30mm Roller bearing mount in my X2, I wonder if that hurts the pedaling ability, I actually get a decent amount of pedal bob when climbing.


That's interesting, I wonder if that's the combination of bigger air can and bearings? Have you tried adding LSC? I only have a few clicks from full open on the DPX2 but can't really compare that to the X2.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

danlovesbikes said:


> That's interesting, I wonder if that's the combination of bigger air can and bearings? Have you tried adding LSC? I only have a few clicks from full open on the DPX2 but can't really compare that to the X2.


Im running a ton of LSC, im 13 clicks out on LSC and 16-17 on HSC, usually its the other way around. I may add a token and run it deeper, it pedals better at 32 percent sag than 28. Im going to put the DPX2 back on this week and see how it does, I am a slow climber so I want it as effiecient as possible.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

Thanks. Thats what I meant. Anything over half of that still binds the idler between the front cap and the idler itself...
Seems to only spin freely when I hand tighten and back off a full 1/4 turn.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

renbuskeh said:


> Thanks. Thats what I meant. Anything over half of that still binds the idler between the front cap and the idler itself...
> Seems to only spin freely when I hand tighten and back off a full 1/4 turn.


The only other thing I would double check is that the bearing was pushed in dead straight. If not, it would bind easily. J


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

can anyone comment on their frame warranty? ie what do forbidden offer? has anyone had to send anything back? if so - what was the experience like?


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

15 hours later and my idler bearing is crunching and not spinning freely. I stopped by Fanatik so they could replace it.


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

I have been in communication with Forbidden and they are replacing my idler w/ the V2.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

How did you end up contacting them? I'll try to reach out to them too.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

I'm experiencing a smallish clunking noise/feeling in my drivetrain. At first I thought it was a loose crank arm, (that's kinda the feeling/noise that it's making) I had the bike in the shop the other day, and the Mechanic checked the crank arms and they were tightened to spec (52nm) 
I notice it most when i am climbing, and put down a bit of power, If i back off a bit it feels like it goes away, and does not happen in sync with my pedal strokes.

I took the crank off last night and checked the chainring bolts (reinstalled crank to spec) checked the upper pulley(I replaced the pulley bearing from the start) pulled the cassette off and reinstalled it, (XO eagle) checked suspension linkage bolts, re torqued pedals (checked for play in the pedal) checked derailleur bolt and pulleys.

Has anyone had this feeling in their bike? my guess was somewhere in the drivetrain, but it could be the linkage.
The bike is like new, only 5-6 rides on it, I wasn't getting this feeling from the start, it just started happening last ride.

Any advice would be appreciated.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

onawave said:


> can anyone comment on their frame warranty? ie what do forbidden offer? has anyone had to send anything back? if so - what was the experience like?


I had to do a crash replacement for my front triangle. Pricing was very reasonable and they were quick to get it out to me


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Kmag76 said:


> I'm experiencing a smallish clunking noise/feeling in my drivetrain. At first I thought it was a loose crank arm, (that's kinda the feeling/noise that it's making) I had the bike in the shop the other day, and the Mechanic checked the crank arms and they were tightened to spec (52nm)
> I notice it most when i am climbing, and put down a bit of power, If i back off a bit it feels like it goes away, and does not happen in sync with my pedal strokes.
> 
> I took the crank off last night and checked the chainring bolts (reinstalled crank to spec) checked the upper pulley(I replaced the pulley bearing from the start) pulled the cassette off and reinstalled it, (XO eagle) checked suspension linkage bolts, re torqued pedals (checked for play in the pedal) checked derailleur bolt and pulleys.
> ...


Hmmmm.. clunking is an odd sound if it is only generated when climbing. Is it a noise or a sensation at the pedals? Did you have a new rear wheel on the bike? The rear hub could be a culprit if it has not been servicing recently and the pawls may not be engaging properly. J


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

The normal weird sounds I get when climbing are creak, creak ......... gasp........... creak, creak............ gasp, F...... . Topped off with the most annoying SRAM upper jockey wheel misalignment rattle. J


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Its not only generated when climbing, but i feel it the most. Its as soon as its under some power. Its more of a sensation i can feel through crank arm/pedals, but you can hear it if i get into a rhythmic pedaling cadence. 
For the most part I know my way around a bike. but i'm kinda stumped with this... 

I'll take it out for a ride today after going through what i listed above, and see how things go.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Haha. yeah that sounds kinda normal!


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

So during the ride today, the bike continued to make this noise/have the feeling of a loose crank.
I brought the bike to my LBS after the ride and the tech found the same issue.
He also pulled everything apart, and found heavy wear on the inside of idler pulley, so much so that he had to file the access rolled aluminum down.
So the theory is that my XX1 chain is not meshing very well with the pulley teeth. The chain sits high on the teeth, and when I put some power down it pulls the chain down further into the teeth, causing the "clunking noise/feeling" 

I do hope we have found the problem! not so impressed with the amount of wear on something that has been used 8-10 hours. The riding season hasn't even gotten hard yet!


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

Kmag76 said:


> So during the ride today, the bike continued to make this noise/have the feeling of a loose crank.
> I brought the bike to my LBS after the ride and the tech found the same issue.
> He also pulled everything apart, and found heavy wear on the inside of idler pulley, so much so that he had to file the access rolled aluminum down.
> So the theory is that my XX1 chain is not meshing very well with the pulley teeth. The chain sits high on the teeth, and when I put some power down it pulls the chain down further into the teeth, causing the "clunking noise/feeling"
> ...


Funny that you mention this issue, I've had a similar problem where I feel a sensation through the cranks when pedaling. Sometimes I feel it and sometimes I don't. I keep checking the cranks or chainring as it feels the same as when they start coming loose. I was also going to swap the pedals and see if that resolved the problem.

I'm assuming your on the new V2 idler pulley? I just put my replacement on about 5 rides ago and I'm also on an XX1 chain. I will check my idler pulley to see if I have similar issues, check back with what you find out. This issue would make sense to lead back to the pulley teeth as I've had similar issues with a Wolftooth ring and the teeth "catching" the chain in one spot causing the same feeling.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Anyone on here that is a speed focused rider find a good sweet spot for the LSC on the DPX2?? Im switching back to it and was going to start 2 clicks from open


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## otto-79 (Apr 17, 2013)

For me the clunkning noise came from DUB driveside bottom bracket was loose.


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## sb1616ne (Feb 13, 2008)

Has anyone here dug into the Deviante Highlander? I ride an Evil Wreckoning now and really hoping to swap everything over to an high pivot frame soon.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

sb1616ne said:


> Has anyone here dug into the Deviante Highlander? I ride an Evil Wreckoning now and really hoping to swap everything over to an high pivot frame soon.


A friend of mine had the original version of the Deviate.
He said it rode amazing, but only when it worked. Which wasn't very often sadly. He's gone back to riding his Yeti now.

However the new Highlander is meant to have dealt with all the issues by having better integration, reliability and longevity of parts etc. so should be a much better bike and ride!


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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

_HENDO_ said:


> A friend of mine had the original version of the Deviate.
> He said it rode amazing, but only when it worked. Which wasn't very often sadly. He's gone back to riding his Yeti now.
> 
> However the new Highlander is meant to have dealt with all the issues by having better integration, reliability and longevity of parts etc. so should be a much better bike and ride!


What didnt work? Mines been perfect, ordered a highlander too, as have a few others, here... https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/deviate-cycles-1130851.html


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## jwick (Jan 31, 2013)

Kmag76 said:


> So during the ride today, the bike continued to make this noise/have the feeling of a loose crank.
> I brought the bike to my LBS after the ride and the tech found the same issue.
> He also pulled everything apart, and found heavy wear on the inside of idler pulley, so much so that he had to file the access rolled aluminum down.
> So the theory is that my XX1 chain is not meshing very well with the pulley teeth. The chain sits high on the teeth, and when I put some power down it pulls the chain down further into the teeth, causing the "clunking noise/feeling"
> ...


Similar issue here. I'm on a 11spd Shimano chain and 130 miles on the bike to date. Just checked the drivetrain for wear and found similar issues. I didn't feel or hear the same slipping of chain like you but was trying to chase down apparent drivetrain drag. The idler seems to be very sensitive to the amount of torque on the bolt. I found I had to loctite the bolt with minimal torque to reduce drag. I tried various thin shims to space out the caps from the bearing but went back to to stock setup with none. On a side note the roller on the lower chain guide is also very sensitive to over torquing as well. I've got it all pretty smooth for now but the wear on the idler did give me pause. Hoping the SS idler is in the works and would certainly grab one once available. Aside from these issues I'm loving the bike.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

Tom Howard said:


> What didnt work? Mines been perfect, ordered a highlander too, as have a few others, here... https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/deviate-cycles-1130851.html


I'm sure your's was fine. He had one of the very first versions (possibly a prototype?) as he knew the guys that designed/made them.

Was drivetrain issues with the idler and shock mount alignment I think.

The Highlander looks like a much more refined product now so I doubt it would have only of those issues!


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Does anyone have information as to when Forbidden will make an announcement for their 2020 lineup? Colors, pricing, full bike build, etc?


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Finally got around to building mine (health and rear wheel issues) and I know you need to add a few extra links. With a XL is it still 4 links to give you a grand total of 130.

Thanks,

dave


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

So after running coil and an X2, im back on the DPX2, much easier pedaling on climbs, as well as sprinting on punchy sections. I actually PRd a few -20 to -30% grade trails with the stock shock this morning and it was a bit more fun knowing it would climb a bit easier to get back to the top. Im 170 lbs running 170 psi, stock token, -11 rebound, and 4 clicks of LSC from open. May take out a few psi and add another click of LSC, plenty of small bump compliance so far. Sometimes upgrading bikes is great but the way they come out of the box is often times the best.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

AKRCD47 said:


> So after running coil and an X2, im back on the DPX2, much easier pedaling on climbs, as well as sprinting on punchy sections. I actually PRd a few -20 to -30% grade trails with the stock shock this morning and it was a bit more fun knowing it would climb a bit easier to get back to the top. Im 170 lbs running 170 psi, stock token, -11 rebound, and 4 clicks of LSC from open. May take out a few psi and add another click of LSC, plenty of small bump compliance so far. Sometimes upgrading bikes is great but the way they come out of the box is often times the best.


That's interesting...My riding weight is 170lbs and I'm running 194psi in the back....I think I'm going to try bumping it a bit lower.

I'm going to coil soon...either EXT or Bomber CR w/ ava tune.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> That's interesting...My riding weight is 170lbs and I'm running 194psi in the back....I think I'm going to try bumping it a bit lower.
> 
> I'm going to coil soon...either EXT or Bomber CR w/ ava tune.


Try my settings before you do that maybe? I wasted a lot of money doing a coil, but if you ride a lot of super gnarly stuff then maybe yeah. The bike sticks to the ground so much with the coil I was trying to liven up the ride a ton. I ride pretty gnarly stuff most the time too.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

AKRCD47 said:


> Try my settings before you do that maybe? I wasted a lot of money doing a coil, but if you ride a lot of super gnarly stuff then maybe yeah. The bike sticks to the ground so much with the coil I was trying to liven up the ride a ton. I ride pretty gnarly stuff most the time too.


For sure, going to do some pretty chunky trails this weekend. I'll run both settings a report back!


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## Soupman (Apr 1, 2020)

It’s interesting everyone’s take on shocks with the ferb. I went from a DPX2 to a ccdb coil cs and can’t imagine going back. Due to the more composed manor I find the shock and bike feel. Great to hear you are loving the stock option though!


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

AKRCD47 said:


> Try my settings before you do that maybe? I wasted a lot of money doing a coil, but if you ride a lot of super gnarly stuff then maybe yeah. The bike sticks to the ground so much with the coil I was trying to liven up the ride a ton. I ride pretty gnarly stuff most the time too.


i think this depends on how you like to ride your bikes. after going coil - i wouldnt go back and serisouly considering a push 11-6. that feeling of being planted is amazing.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> Sometimes upgrading bikes is great but the way they come out of the box is often times the best.


We all owe you for having tested every available suspension option on that bike :thumbsup:


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Confused? Brother, I am so lost, that someone is going to have to give me a ride home.


Funny, I have tested everything thats forsure, need to learn somehow. I almost have you beaten for most posts made, I need more things to test.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

AKRCD47 said:


> Funny, I have tested everything thats forsure, need to learn somehow. I almost have you beaten for most posts made, I need more things to test.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hahahahaha! Keep it going!

Cheers man. I too have dropped a metric **** tonne on this bike. Thank Christ it's as awesome as it is.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Got my v2 Shimano-12-speed-friendly idler coming from FBC. I can't lie - y'all got me worried about idler bearings now.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> For sure, going to do some pretty chunky trails this weekend. I'll run both settings a report back!


Well, my report back is... I did a run at 195 psi, then 185 psi and then 180 psi. I did tweak the rebound some but I'd say the best run i had was at 185 psi. My riding weight was up today i wore a pack. I was at 205psi originally....thinking i needed to add pressure to solve the issue. Turns out I was wrong......bike felt pretty amazing on I guess you could call double black diamond trails at 185 psi.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Well, my report back is... I did a run at 195 psi, then 185 psi and then 180 psi. I did tweak the rebound some but I'd say the best run i had was at 185 psi. My riding weight was up today i wore a pack. I was at 205psi originally....thinking i needed to add pressure to solve the issue. Turns out I was wrong......bike felt pretty amazing on I guess you could call double black diamond trails at 185 psi.


Its super weird, never experienced it on another bike, it will climb better deeper too. I went all the way to 35 percent sag which is 5psi under my kitted body weight this morning, and it was great, so composed. May need to add a token or some compression at this pressure to keep pedaling platform but the geo feels good.

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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

_HENDO_ said:


> I'm sure your's was fine. He had one of the very first versions (possibly a prototype?) as he knew the guys that designed/made them.
> 
> Was drivetrain issues with the idler and shock mount alignment I think.
> 
> The Highlander looks like a much more refined product now so I doubt it would have only of those issues!


Guess that's why they do prototypes... Zero issues with those on my Guide.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I have finally been able to throw a leg over my revamped Druid. In January I got quite a bit of work done on it, including installation of a last gen 11-6, a GRIP2 damper and Luftkappe in my 36. 

Only some very mild, in town dirt riding but so far, here are my impressions:

1. I have a large frame. I am 5’10” tall. After riding my Kona Unit throughout the winter and pre-Covid spring, my Druid feels like a kid’s bike. It’s a very small Large, as far as I am concerned (although my Honzo and Unit are pretty roomy Larges). 

2. The 11-6 feels exactly like I knew it would which, in a word, is spectacular. That bike is going to be a rocket this year. I am going to have to be careful to keep things reigned in speed-wise, or I am going to wrap myself around a tree. 

3. The GRIP2 damper is a LOT freeer moving than the FIT4. Worlds apart. 

4. With the Luftkappe, my front end sits a noticeable amount lower in the travel. It took me some getting used to. While I expect that I will be rewarded with some very plush small bump compliance, I hope I don’t eat **** on any of the technical downs. I suspect I lost a bit of slackness in my HTA - the Druid is not all that slack to begin with. I have a 150 on there. I would never run a Luftkappe with a 140. Well, I wouldn't run a 140 to begin with, but NEVER with a Luftkappe. 150 with the Luftkappe may end up being a tad sphincter tightening in the gnar. 

5. I know I am going to love the 11-6 and GRIP2 damper. Not so sure about the Luftkappe. Given the need to choose, I would take geo over plushness 10 times out of 10. I will have to see once I am finally able to get some solid dirt in.

Thankfully, the Luftkappe cost next to nothing so I don’t mind ripping it out if I am not happy with the lowered front end.

Other smaller points...

My front wheel has finally stopped squeaking after the blown bearings in my 240 hub were replaced. 

The second gen idler feels no different in terms of resistance than the original one (which also met an early death from blown bearings). I notice no no more resistance whatsoever with the Druid’s high single pivot design, than with any of my other bikes with conventional drive lines. Lucky me!!! 

My 36 tooth star ratchet sounds much meaner than last year. I think some of the lube in there has finally dissipated. I think it was overlubed initially, because it was very quiet compared to my Honzo (also with a 36 tooth star ratchet). I was worried about that because I have heard from many that overlubing those ratchets can lead to their early death. 

As for my comments regarding the Druid’s size, it’s definitely the right size for me. I am not worried about that. I lived on my Unit this winter and spring and like I said, it’s a big effin large, relatively speaking. I just wasn’t used to the Druid’s dimensions at first.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

I dont know, I have a XL Bronson and a large druid, I am 6ft and I ride UCSC trails and I think I prefer the playful nature of the smaller size on my druid than the stable XL.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have finally been able to throw a leg over my revamped Druid. In January I got quite a bit of work done on it, including installation of a last gen 11-6, a GRIP2 damper and Luftkappe in my 36.
> 
> Only some very mild, in town dirt riding but so far, here are my impressions:
> 
> ...


Why did you go with the luftkappe over the smashpot? from the sounds of it the smashpot would be much more suited to your style of riding.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> Why did you go with the luftkappe over the smashpot? from the sounds of it the smashpot would be much more suited to your style of riding.


I went with what my LBS suggested. The dude there is a suspension expert. That is how he got started with his shop. He is now a Forbidden dealer. He rides a Druid, and he shreds a LOT harder than I could ever hope to. He is a very intelligent guy who knows his ****, and is dialled into the local terrain. I 100% trust his judgment.

No big deal though. Nothing is ever necessarily written in stone. Just ask AKRCD47 :thumbsup:


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I went with what my LBS suggested. The dude there is a suspension expert. That is how he got started with his shop. He is now a Forbidden dealer. He rides a Druid, and he shreds a LOT harder than I could ever hope to. He is a very intelligent guy who knows his ****, and is dialled into the local terrain. I 100% trust his judgment.
> 
> No big deal though. Nothing is ever necessarily written in stone. Just ask AKRCD47 :thumbsup:


would be good to understand why he recommends this. i put the smashpot in my 150 - and wouldnt go back.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I went with what my LBS suggested. The dude there is a suspension expert. That is how he got started with his shop. He is now a Forbidden dealer. He rides a Druid, and he shreds a LOT harder than I could ever hope to. He is a very intelligent guy who knows his ****, and is dialled into the local terrain. I 100% trust his judgment.
> 
> No big deal though. Nothing is ever necessarily written in stone. Just ask AKRCD47 :thumbsup:


Yeah, when you try stuff its sometimes good to go back and forth a few times. I race cars professionally, and whenever we make a bunch if changes we always go back to stock at the end of the day to confirm.

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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Steve Vorsprung makes good stuff. If you want to have a laugh check out his latest Tuesday Tune Video (Pinkbike or his Youtube) on pedal kickback. Most of his vids affect me the same. About halfway through my brain starts melting. But on this one when it started outside I was thinking to myself Steve must of got a stylist or a new girlfriend. He was looking pretty hollywood. Nice hair, jacket.... wierd. And then around 5:50ish the vid heads indoors to the madman's whiteboard. This is when the hair gel must of had a failure. Enjoy J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> would be good to understand why he recommends this. i put the smashpot in my 150 - and wouldnt go back.


Well I think this was one of the reasons why he suggested it - because you CAN'T go back. The coil makeover option is irreversible.

I did a very informal little poll on here. In the responses I got (in the thread and by way of PM), most agreed that GRIP2 + Luftkappe was the way to go.

All that said, I am going to email him and ask what his thought process was. I need to touch base with him on something else anyway.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

YogiKudo said:


> Steve Vorsprung makes good stuff. If you want to have a laugh check out his latest Tuesday Tune Video (Pinkbike or his Youtube) on pedal kickback. Most of his vids affect me the same. About halfway through my brain starts melting. But on this one when it started outside I was thinking to myself Steve must of got a stylist or a new girlfriend. He was looking pretty hollywood. Nice hair, jacket.... wierd. And then around 5:50ish the vid heads indoors to the madman's whiteboard. This is when the hair gel must of had a failure. Enjoy J


yeah, the smashpot has better reviews than the puhs version of the same product. he absolutely seems to know his stuff.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Well I think this was one of the reasons why he suggested it - because you CAN'T go back. The coil makeover option is irreversible.
> 
> I did a very informal little poll on here. In the responses I got (in the thread and by way of PM), most agreed that GRIP2 + Luftkappe was the way to go.
> 
> All that said, I am going to email him and ask what his thought process was. I need to touch base with him on something else anyway.


%100 you loose your grip two. but the proper spring in the front in amazeballs. once vorsprung release their smashpot for the 38 it will probably get one. hopefully around the same time forbidden release their long travel bike.

may i ask what bike you had before the druid? and if you can give a comparison?

just would be interesting to see why he recommend it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> %100 you loose your grip two. but the proper spring in the front in amazeballs. once vorsprung release their smashpot for the 38 it will probably get one. hopefully around the same time forbidden release their long travel bike.
> 
> may i ask what bike you had before the druid? and if you can give a comparison?
> 
> just would be interesting to see why he recommend it.


Sure. This is my third Owen Pemberton creation. My last bike was a Norco Sight and the one before that, a Norco Range.

I will let you know what he says. I consider him to be one of the better riders in my area. Maybe he thought I wouldn't push the Smashpot hard enough? Not sure. That said, he rides a 36 with a GRIP2 as well, but no Luftkappe. He does not like the drop in travel/increase in HTA from the Luftkappe. But like I said, as much as it kinda hurts to say it (twice now), he is a significantly more aggressive rider than me.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Mike, are you running the same pressure in the fork pre/post Luftkappe? If so that's why you're getting some travel suckdown. With the luftkappe's increase in neg spring you can/should run higher air pressure for support while still having more plush initial travel. Run based on on-trail feel, not sag


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> Mike, are you running the same pressure in the fork pre/post Luftkappe? If so that's why you're getting some travel suckdown. With the luftkappe's increase in neg spring you can/should run higher air pressure for support while still having more plush initial travel. Run based on on-trail feel, not sag


Thanks. I am running it about 10 PSI higher now, but I am going to try adding another 5 psi or so. It's incredibly plush. I'm pretty sure I can add a lot more than that if I have to, without sacrificing its small bump compliance.

Waiting patiently to get it out on some legit terrain. I suspect my mind is going to be fully blown.


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## Gracey (Feb 10, 2011)

I went from a luftkappe 36 to a Smashpot. Same or better small bump sensitivity but the coil holds the fork up better in the midtroke so maintains the geo on descents better. Plus with the luftkappe the fork felt a bit spikey at the end of travel. The only downside is the extra weight if that sort of thing bothers you.....but you don't notice it on the trail. I'll never go back.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Gracey said:


> ...I'll never go back.


Again, that's good, because you can't.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

The biggest difference to me between air springs and coils is consistency/reliability. I've found all air springs very inconsistent even over short periods of use. The seals constantly can let air into the lower legs converting your burly 160mm enduro slammer into a limited edition Nino Shurter special at 100mm. The manufacturers know this. Most forks should have bleed valves. Not just Fox 38s or 40s. The ugly truth is they know most will never notice so they don't bother. I roll up on tons of folks barely getting 50% of travel here in the PNW. 
The Smashpot is my favorite coil conversion. It is however easily the heaviest. There 100cc of oil on the coil side of the SP vs PUSH ACS3's 20cc. PUSH uses a small air spring to control bottom out while the SP uses an oil valve. SP has I think 16 clicks of bottom out adjustment just by turning a dial. Nice if you are riding a wider variety of trails. Cheers J


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

A good test if your fork needs new lower seals is if air is starting to build up in the lowers of your damper leg.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

YogiKudo said:


> The biggest difference to me between air springs and coils is consistency/reliability. I've found all air springs very inconsistent even over short periods of use. The seals constantly can let air into the lower legs converting your burly 160mm enduro slammer into a limited edition Nino Shurter special at 100mm. The manufacturers know this. Most forks should have bleed valves. Not just Fox 38s or 40s. The ugly truth is they know most will never notice so they don't bother. I roll up on tons of folks barely getting 50% of travel here in the PNW.
> The Smashpot is my favorite coil conversion. It is however easily the heaviest. There 100cc of oil on the coil side of the SP vs PUSH ACS3's 20cc. PUSH uses a small air spring to control bottom out while the SP uses an oil valve. SP has I think 16 clicks of bottom out adjustment just by turning a dial. Nice if you are riding a wider variety of trails. Cheers J


%100 agree with this.


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## Gracey (Feb 10, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Again, that's good, because you can't.


Not entirely true....though I know what you mean. I've been off the bike for six months following surgery. My wife wanted to try the 36s. The insides of the stanchions looked immaculate so I converted them back to air after a year of coil use and they've been running fine. I realise that's not guaranteed though.


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## smartyiak (Apr 29, 2009)

What's this????


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

prob new colors coming for the next batch, late summer?


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## Gracey (Feb 10, 2011)

For anyone running coil what spring rates are you on?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

You guys have me thinking about the SP now. Lmfao. 

I’m going to wait until I can get some serious dirt in first before I pull the trigger on anything further. Lol. 

I added 5 psi to my fork tonight. It restored the geo. And my fork feels pretty damned good. Worlds better than how it was with the FIT4 and no Luftkappe. 

The 11-6 is going to be next level. I know that. I can tell already. There is no doubt.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Would anyone else besides me be interested in having Druid in a 29/27.5 Mullet trim? I have been thinking about it all week after riding my brothers 27.5 bike and loving it. I will definetly buy the first good mullet bike that comes out. However I feel like the druid could be really cool if they made a linkage to make it a mullet bike. Basically if they made the link for it the Geo could be pretty much the same. 


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

AKRCD47 said:


> Would anyone else besides me be interested in having Druid in a 29/27.5 Mullet trim? I have been thinking about it all week after riding my brothers 27.5 bike and loving it. I will definetly buy the first good mullet bike that comes out. However I feel like the druid could be really cool if they made a linkage to make it a mullet bike. Basically if they made the link for it the Geo could be pretty much the same.


Had a wheel from my old bike's spare wheelset..


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## Gracey (Feb 10, 2011)

I thinking mulleting works better on a 650b frame than a 29er....unless the 29er starts off with a really high BB....Else you'll need 120mm cranks 😁...I mulleted a Bronson V3 and it rode well except for the slack seat angle.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Gracey said:


> I thinking mulleting works better on a 650b frame than a 29er....unless the 29er starts off with a really high BB....Else you'll need 120mm cranks ...I mulleted a Bronson V3 and it rode well except for the slack seat angle.


It works on 29er if the bike brand makes a specific linkage for it, thats what they did with the Alchemy Nine7Five.

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## Gracey (Feb 10, 2011)

Cool...I rode a mullet for about 6 months...overall I preferred it (especially on steep trails) to full 650b...but prefer 29 both ends. I find jumping easier with matching wheel sizes...something feels odd on the mullet.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

The Mullet setup is great in some ways. With adjusted geometry to suit i'm sure it'd work well for the right style rider.

+ More composed on steep trails
+ Jumping over holes is easier
+ Much easier to make consecutive tight turns compared to 29 rear
+ Not much difference on the climbs
+ Easy to do a good manual!

- Get hung up on repetitive holes and lose much speed!
- Rear drifts more often 
- More effort required to carry momentum than 29 rear


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

BTW on the instagram story of FBC, they showed a new rear link. and it is confirmed to be a link for mullet setups


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Here is the post
mullet druid


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Wondering how close the Geometry will be, I literally just laced up a new 29er hoop, damn!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Did a couple of updates on the Druid. Installed the new idler and a new fork. It has Fox Air Release Technology valves.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Also, did anyone read the NSMB review that came out a couple of days ago? V2 linkage coming soon?


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

I was feeling ready to get a Druid until I read that article. This sentence doesn’t give me the good feels —> ‘Under heavy rear braking the bike will sit into its travel and have a hard time recovering.’ and nether does this one ‘ Too much front brake and the rear will sit high up in travel.’

I haven’t tried one yet and don’t have a local dealer but the overwhelming positive reviews can’t be ignored.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kootenay rider said:


> I was feeling ready to get a Druid until I read that article. This sentence doesn't give me the good feels -> 'Under heavy rear braking the bike will sit into its travel and have a hard time recovering.' and nether does this one ' Too much front brake and the rear will sit high up in travel.'
> 
> I haven't tried one yet and don't have a local dealer but the overwhelming positive reviews can't be ignored.


Yea, the article was the least complimentary review I've read yet. I'm on the cusp of purchase too and inhaling any/all information on the bike so I was surprised when the article was so negative.

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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Yea, the article was the least complimentary review I've read yet. I'm on the cusp of purchase too and inhaling any/all information on the bike so I was surprised when the article was so negative.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i didnt think the article was that negative?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

onawave said:


> i didnt think the article was that negative?


I guess it may just be the fact that it wasn't so overwhelmingly positive like pretty much everything else out there.

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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Yea, the article was the least complimentary review I've read yet. I'm on the cusp of purchase too and inhaling any/all information on the bike so I was surprised when the article was so negative.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's an rather interesting ride. I think what they are referring too, is if you're the kind of rider that "rides" / drags the brakes through stuff, you'll have those issues. I've been on my druid for about 2 months and I have altered alot of my riding/braking techniques. It kind of reminds me more of a moto....don't touch them until you need it. So if you're the kind of rider that drags your brakes lightly, this bike isn't for you. If you like to let it go wide open and touch the brakes last minute, this bike is for you.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

onawave said:


> i didnt think the article was that negative?


There is no negatives I feel while braking. Anti Rise isnt always a negative, especially if you ride steeper terrain. The bike feels good on choppy terrain so I wouldnt think too hard about that one article, you never know who the reviewer is and why or where their opinions come from. I would look at the reviews and this thread as a whole to come to a conclusion.

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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> It's an rather interesting ride. I think what they are referring too, is if you're the kind of rider that "rides" / drags the brakes through stuff, you'll have those issues. I've been on my druid for about 2 months and I have altered alot of my riding/braking techniques. It kind of reminds me more of a moto....don't touch them until you need it. So if you're the kind of rider that drags your brakes lightly, this bike isn't for you. If you like to let it go wide open and touch the brakes last minute, this bike is for you.


my basic understanding is that this is the way we should be riding anyway.

just watch lewis buchanan ride. next level


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> It's an rather interesting ride. I think what they are referring too, is if you're the kind of rider that "rides" / drags the brakes through stuff, you'll have those issues. I've been on my druid for about 2 months and I have altered alot of my riding/braking techniques. It kind of reminds me more of a moto....don't touch them until you need it. So if you're the kind of rider that drags your brakes lightly, this bike isn't for you. If you like to let it go wide open and touch the brakes last minute, this bike is for you.


I brake late, how else do you get the heart pumping? Thanks for the info, makes sense.

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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

onawave said:


> my basic understanding is that this is the way we should be riding anyway.
> 
> just watch lewis buchanan ride. next level


Started following him about a month ago, that guy shreds. pretty amazing.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Before I got my suspension dialled, I noticed things locking up a bit under hard braking. See posts #115 and #119. 

As soon as I decreased my PSI lower than what I thought intuitively would be optimal and got my suspension dialled, things softened up. That's when things went from good to next level. 

That said, I have also adjusted my riding a bit with this bike - including way less braking. With the incredible corning of this bike and its ability to soak up anything in its path, it's a shame to try to tame this beast. So far so good but holy crap - I have never gone so fast on a bike in my life. I have serious concerns about the level of speed I am able to effortlessly attain on this thing. 

Also, I find I can navigate technical downs much better on this bike than on any Horst link I have owned, whose rear suspension felt like it was extending under heavy braking in the steeps.

I have no doubt that the author of the NSMB article is an absolute animal. Not suggesting otherwise. But I also suspect he has some further tweaking to do with the suspension to hit the next level zone. It took 2 ShockWizes and a couple of days of riding for me to get mine close to where it should have been all along. I had WAY too much air in my shock, among other things. 

Then again, I also suspect he is a much better suspension tweaker then I am, so who knows? 

Whatever. Happy to report that I no longer notice any locking under heavy braking sensation I felt when I first got the bike.


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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Did a couple of updates on the Druid. Installed the new idler and a new fork. It has Fox Air Release Technology valves.


49/40? ;-)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> %100 you loose your grip two...[/BF QUOTE]
> 
> You lost me on this. Are you saying that I don't need a damper with the Smashpot? I must be misunderstanding what you are saying.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Gracey said:


> For anyone running coil what spring rates are you on?


I would be interested in this too. For those running the Smashpot, spring rate as well as riding weight with full gear, fork travel (I assume everyone is on a 150 but maybe not), description of terrain and whether you would go with a different spring rate next time.


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

Hello guys! Long post coming 
I finally had time to build and ride the bike here in Norway. 
I am a 6ft 200 lbs rider by the way on a large frame.

Building the bike was really easy, actually much easier than i expected (first time for me). Also, i think someone wrote here that no spacers are required with shimano XT, but that wasn't possible because the chainring couldn't move. A 2,5 mm spacer on the driver side solved that. Also, based on Olly's suggestions on FB, i set it up with 0 B-tension and i got perfect shifting in literally 10 minutes.

Bike Specs : Full shimano XT drivetrain
Lyrik ultimate fork
Dt swiss 1900M wheels
Magic Mary + Hans Dampf tires
50 mm stem 
One up handlebar with 20 mm rise + 25mm spacers 
One up V2 180 mm
Magura MT5 brakes

My current suspension setup is : 
Fox dpx2: 190 psi (19-20 mm sag), LSC open rebound 10 clicks from closed.
Lyrik Ultimate : 92 psi, HSC open, LSC 3 clicks from open, rebound 11 clicks from closed
Here, i would like to thank all the people here that did all the hard work/research + Forbidden for the set-up suggestions. I would never think to run too much sag on my own 

Climbing: The bike climbs amazing, its up there with the best. My previous ride was a ripley V4 and although it doesnt have the DW link feeling when i climb fire roads, at everything else like a bit more technical i prefer climbing with the Druid as the traction is amazing. No pedal bob, no movement, nothing. Hell, i even have the impression that when i have it fully open it climbs better than when i use the climb switch.

Descends: I have ridden mostly Blue-black "natural" trails that look a bit like a minefield after all the rains/snow here. 
I can't really describe the feeling, but the rear suspension is just there and does all the job. At almost every ride i check the travel o-ring and i use 90-95% of the travel without even realizing it.
You can easily notice the increased rearward axle path on the descends as you carry a lot of speed and the only indication/warning that i get in order to slow down and live another day to ride is from the overwhelmed front end (lyrik in my case). I had ridden/demo a couple of longer travel bikes the last year and i never had such confidence over repetitive hits/roots/rocks at high speed. The bike feels amazing and i now get why some people said here that the bike makes you go faster etc.

Now that may sound weird, but i find the brake jack/squatting while using the rear brake very helpful on steep terrain as the rear sits and balances the geometry. I noticed that when i caught myself using the rear brake more and more on steeper trails with this bike.

Although i can hear the idler pulley on steep climbs and it sounds like it won't make it until the end of the season, the bike is super quiet. 
No noticeable chain drag though!

Overall, the bike by far exceeded my expectations. I have never expected to ride the way it does.
The frame quality is superb, as are the quick responses from Forbidden on FB and the overall customer service.
I think i already said that, but the first frame that i ordered arrived with a tiny scratch on the front. Mech Monkey contacted Forbidden and quickly replaced it with a brand new frame in a couple of days.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Tom Howard said:


> 49/40? ;-)


Ha! No, the 2021 36 has the valves on the back of the legs.


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## Tom Howard (Jan 8, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Ha! No, the 2021 36 has the valves on the back of the legs.


I know, that's what I assumed, just messing. (waiting on mine to arrive  )


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

manos-t said:


> Hello guys! Long post coming
> I finally had time to build and ride the bike here in Norway.
> I am a 6ft 200 lbs rider by the way on a large frame.
> 
> ...


I've got about 500+ miles on my idler and I live pretty much in the dessert. I found if you pull the idler off every couple weeks and clean it and re-grease it, it runs smooth and quite.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

As far as spring rates are concerned I weigh 185 and have both the Push green and black spring for the ACS3. Originally, PUSH recommended a black spring but subsequently changed their recommendations to green for this weight class. I found the black too stout for normal trail riding. It may be a good option for the bike park. When I went to Vorsprung Steve just handed me the spring he thought was suitable so I'm not 100% sure which one is in my SP. I'll try to find the receipt. I'm assuming it's their recommendation for 185. Cheers J


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

hi all.

ive been following this thread quite closely. 

would be interested to know - if people have come from more longer travel bikes down to the druid.

im currently riding a pimped out yeti sb150 - and i ride it pretty hard. lots of shuttle days, took it to canada last year etc

so people who have come from the longer travel bikes "down" to the druid - what are your thoughts? its it more playful? is it just as capable?

thanks.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


I think its just as capable, if you put a 160 fork on it or angleset I think it will feel more capable than the Yeti. Im running the standard 150/130 setup and im never running out of bike, putting an angleset this week to make it a little extra capable. The rear end is insane how good it feels.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


I'm in a similar boat, coming from a Yeti SB6.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I'm in a similar boat, coming from a Yeti SB6.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I dont understand how people are taking so long to think about whether they want this bike or not. When I saw it online, I searched pinkbike and found one, tore down my old frame, sold it to the first offer and drove 4 hours to pick up the druid. The only issue I have had with mine to make me want to change is im inbetween sizes M and L and have back problems. Threw in an angleset and higher rise bars and it is perfect now in a size large.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## csm024 (Jul 1, 2011)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


I'll be the contrarian to some other comments. Is the bike great for what it is? Yes. Does it feel like a 160mm travel enduro sled? No. IMO, the druid handles its travel very well, but it's not the same as, for example, the new specialized enduro. I have both and will use the druid everywhere I ride the enduro, but it's not as forgiving and doesn't erase the high speed chunder like the enduro. The druid will out corner and out pedal the enduro, however. My two cents.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

[mention]AKRCD47 [/mention]

I was about to pull the trigger on the last Moss size L frame from Fanatik but then CV19 SAH order got put into place and promptly 2/3 of my start-up company was laid off. I kept my job but also have a baby on the way... so played it safe and then they sold out.

That being said, I want to keep my current bike up and running as a back up so I have to start fresh for parts on the Druid.

The other issue is that Forbidden doesn't currently offer full builds and Fanatik with their "custom bike builder portal", in my opinion, are over priced. Even my "budget builds" would come in at $9k. That is definitely in part on me because I want this to be a dream build but nothing can compare to a manufacturers discount on parts. That leaves me to scrape all the parts together and have another shop build it (I don't have the time, tools or knowledge), etc.

Anyways, I'm ready to commit now but have to wait until the next batch in July.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

csm024 said:


> I'll be the contrarian to some other comments. Is the bike great for what it is? Yes. Does it feel like a 160mm travel enduro sled? No. IMO, the druid handles its travel very well, but it's not the same as, for example, the new specialized enduro. I have both and will use the druid everywhere I ride the enduro, but it's not as forgiving and doesn't erase the high speed chunder like the enduro. The druid will out corner and out pedal the enduro, however. My two cents.


Forsure, thats definetly where it falls short, the new enduro is a rear axle path and has 170mm and 64 degree head angle, I would say it feels more like a 150mm bike that doesnt have rearward axle path. Im really digging the druid with the angleset, may go even further and do a 1.5 but waiting to see what the mullet link offers geo wise.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> [mention]AKRCD47 [/mention]
> 
> I was about to pull the trigger on the last Moss size L frame from Fanatik but then CV19 SAH order got put into place and promptly 2/3 of my start-up company was laid off. I kept my job but also have a baby on the way... so played it safe and then they sold out.
> 
> ...


I would reccomend just keeping your eye on pinkbike for parts, a lot of times people like me will buy something and never use it or change bikes and sell it for a pretty big loss. If you're patient you can save a lot of money keeping your eye on it. Right now would be a great time to buy the previous Fox 36, why not? It is still an amazing fork, just not the "latest and greatest", it isnt going to hold you back. People also sell good wheelsets all the time and you can win big, got my DT350 Hubs with 54T ratchet upgrade and EX511 wheels for 350$, indestructable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

AKRCD47 said:


> I would reccomend just keeping your eye on pinkbike for parts, a lot of times people like me will buy something and never use it or change bikes and sell it for a pretty big loss. If you're patient you can save a lot of money keeping your eye on it. Right now would be a great time to buy the previous Fox 36, why not? It is still an amazing fork, just not the "latest and greatest", it isnt going to hold you back. People also sell good wheelsets all the time and you can win big, got my DT350 Hubs with 54T ratchet upgrade and EX511 wheels for 350$, indestructable.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep, that's my current plan, acquire parts slowly but that's not as gratifying as instant satisfaction. Now the question is, will there be enough changes to the 2020 Druid frame to make it worth while to wait or do I pick up a used frame if I find one?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Yep, that's my current plan, acquire parts slowly but that's not as gratifying as instant satisfaction. Now the question is, will there be enough changes to the 2020 Druid frame to make it worth while to wait or do I pick up a used frame if I find one?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pick up used if money is an issue, there are a couple out there, all the updates Forbidden will send to you if you email them. The Mullet link is supposed to be announced this week, V2 Pulley, stuff like that is stuff that you can get to update the bike. If you can save 800$ I think its worth it, most people selling the bikes barley ride them anyways since they are typically dream builds and are moving on to the next newest bike they want.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

AKRCD47 said:


> I dont understand how people are taking so long to think about whether they want this bike or not. When I saw it online, I searched pinkbike and found one, tore down my old frame, sold it to the first offer and drove 4 hours to pick up the druid. The only issue I have had with mine to make me want to change is im inbetween sizes M and L and have back problems. Threw in an angleset and higher rise bars and it is perfect now in a size large.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Simply because it's a lot of money to throw down for something that you haven't tested and are using online reviews/forums to form a decision. Forums are wonderful places but they can also be traps for some. A new bike comes out (doesn't matter by who), people buy them and then rush to the forums to gush about how they are the best bike they've ever ridden both up and down. When have you ever read a thread on a new bike where it's negative regarding the ride impressions of the bike? There is the honeymoon phase and lots of 'vocal' forum posters flip bikes every year to ride the newest ones - then declare how the new ones are amazing and better than the last.

It's easy to get caught up in the excitement when reading the forum posts.

I'm a serial bike flipper myself, have been for years but it still pays to try before you buy which, at this point, is extremely hard for most with this bike.

I'll probably end up with one anyways, ha!


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


I'm in a similar situation here. I had an SB6 that I modified to get a bit more travel, then went to an SB150 which gets 162mm of travel and honestly I don't love the 150 because the back end is squirrely. The seat stay and upper link are underbuilt for someone of my size. I'm VERY interested in seeing what Forbidden is coming out with in the longer travel category and am even considering selling my 150 to get a Druid.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

smudge said:


> I'm in a similar situation here. I had an SB6 that I modified to get a bit more travel, then went to an SB150 which gets 162mm of travel and honestly I don't love the 150 because the back end is squirrely. The seat stay and upper link are underbuilt for someone of my size. I'm VERY interested in seeing what Forbidden is coming out with in the longer travel category and am even considering selling my 150 to get a Druid.


im used to the backend on the yeti and dont mind it. keeps it interesting.

however if the druid or the longer travel version of this is better - then take my money.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

For those that like to experiment I just picked-up the new Microshift Advent X drivetrain for my Druid. It's 10 speed, 11-48 range, lighter than GX or XT and a grand total of $167.00.This suits my riding style of not shifting a whole lot. I'm usually out of the saddle for pitchy climbs. It requires old-school shimano HG driver and eliminates any chain stay interference with the 10 tooth cog. I doubt anything will last as long as SRAM's stuff. Their 11 speed XX1 chains went forever. But it's fairly cheap to find out. I'll report back on durabilty so far, so good. It shifts better than Shimano 11 speed which isn't saying much. J


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


Before my Druid, I was on an Ibis Ripmo, and before that a Trek Slash. The Druid outclimbs both of the other bikes on smooth and tech. That's all there is to that. 
DH on the Ripmo is fun, but it got squirrelly from time to time, particularly when the speeds increased. The Slash is just fast, but you're kind of along for the ride. On descents, the Druid is... different. The Ripmo was more fun and playful than the Slash, which isn't surprising, given that the Slash is basically a race bike. The Druid is like Neo in The Matrix. At first, you can't really do much, because you're trying to do things the way you always did. Gravity pulls you down, you can't bend the spoon, etc. After some time, you start to figure out that it's not air you're breathing, and you have a bit of a breakthrough. Still, bad choices can happen, you get in trouble, have to bend out of harm's way [mostly], etc. At some point, you develop enough confidence to just go for it and amazingly, you beat your demons, at least for a while. You'll probably get taken down hard at some point, but like the Phoenix, you will rise from the dead and truly fly.

TLR - There's a learning curve, kicks ass when you figure it out.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> At first, you can't really do much, because you're trying to do things the way you always did.
> 
> At some point, you develop enough confidence to just go for it and amazingly, you beat your demons..
> 
> TLR - There's a learning curve, kicks ass when you figure it out.


I agree with your sentiment.
At first the Druid felt odd because I've always popped and hopped over roots, ruts and rocks. Especially when you're finding your feet with suspension setup too. It takes a while to hone how to ride the Druid, but once you do it's a trail bike capable of handling Enduro terrain.

However once I realised how good this bike is at tracking the terrain I've just let the bike deal with the micro details and then I focus my riding on the bigger stuff!

It has reframed how I ride a trail in the same way moving from a hardtail to a full suspension bike changes your line choice capabilities! It's addictive!


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

pinkrobe said:


> ... You'll probably get taken down hard at some point, but like the Phoenix, you will rise from the dead and truly fly.


I hope this isn't the case. I obliterated my shoulder and injured my back and hip a couple of years ago. ~20mpg to zero on a boulder after slipping a pedal. Missed 8 months of work. This phoenix is still shaking off the ash and at 46 I can't afford anymore incidents like that.

Is the suspension really that different? Harder to use roots and rocks as kickers? With the back end effectively getting quite a bit longer as it compresses, I imagine pulling up hard on the front end takes some adjustment


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

smudge said:


> I hope this isn't the case. I obliterated my shoulder and injured my back and hip a couple of years ago. ~20mpg to zero on a boulder after slipping a pedal. Missed 8 months of work. This phoenix is still shaking off the ash and at 46 I can't afford anymore incidents like that.
> 
> Is the suspension really that different? Harder to use roots and rocks as kickers? With the back end effectively getting quite a bit longer as it compresses, I imagine pulling up hard on the front end takes some adjustment


On the contrary, I started to huck stuff I normally wouldn't, and at a couple of years older than you, that's saying something. Preload, pop, air, land. Same as any other FS bike. The awesome part is that the suspension covers up my mistakes - cased landings don't really happen anymore. You don't get bucked, which means you don't go careening into the woods as much. Gap this, gap that. That's worth the price of admission for me. I feel more confident trying stuff because the bike fixes the part where I normally screw up. That means I goa bit faster, which makes me clear the things that normally give me trouble.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Here is what I rode from 2015 to 2017:










160/160, 27.7 lbs with minions and pedals. One of THE plushest bikes of its genre at the time (and one of the highest AS as well).

Here was what I rode in 2018:










Both were Owen Pemberton creations.

There is no situation in which I would reach for either over the Druid.

For anyone not feeling that the Druid's travel feels SIGNIFICANTLY deeper than 130, I feel for you (and yes, I know - 3 feels in a row). I would be button fiddling like crazy, trying to capture the magic. I would be very disappointed.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

AKRCD47 said:


> Forsure, thats definetly where it falls short, the new enduro is a rear axle path and has 170mm and 64 degree head angle, I would say it feels more like a 150mm bike that doesnt have rearward axle path. Im really digging the druid with the angleset, may go even further and do a 1.5 but waiting to see what the mullet link offers geo wise.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You put in a 1 deg Angle set? Pros/Con? The reason I'm asking is I think I've reached the limit of the bike for me personally.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> You put in a 1 deg Angle set? Pros/Con? The reason I'm asking is I think I've reached the limit of the bike for me personally.


Way more comfortable at speed and on steep stuff, I havent really felt any disadvantages since it steepens the seat tube unlike up forking slackens, im a little small for the large frame and it helps shorten the top tube a touch in the seated position. There arent many disadvantages because I usually try and ride stuff on the steeper and chunkier side.

If you need more plowability bump the fork to 160 I ran that for a while and it made a big difference on steeps, honestly im only back to 150 and the angleset because it keeps the seat tube steeper than the 160 does and I set my fork up that I was only ever using 150 anyways, if I wanted full downhill capability I would do both. They are about to release a linkage that I think is for the Mullet conversion, that should be really cool.

I also have a custom Fox X2 that gets a little extra rear travel (4-5mm) that im not running anymore since the DPX2 was better climbing for me but that definetly helped on the bigger hits. Bike is perfect for me, just wish stock it had a 1 degree slacker head tube and 1 degree steeper seat tube.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MarcusBrody (Apr 1, 2014)

Forbidden announced a 27.5 mullet conversion link for the Druid today. Looks really interesting and I'll be eager to see what testers have to say about it vs. the original 29 in the rear.

Link:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/forbidden-bike-co-introduce-ziggy-link-for-mullet-conversions.html


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Finally finished mine. If it would only stop snowing I could give it a test ride. My buddy has a shock wiz so I am going to try that this week I hope to set it up. More than likely I will change the spacer out to the biggest one and go from there. I am 6 foot 190ish with a 6'2 reach. I like longer bikes after being on Mondrakers off and on for 5 years and most recently a Pole.

The stats on it are:

XL Frame with ride wrap
XTR 4 pot brakes
XTR shifter
XT 12 speed drive train
XT 11 speed cranks with wolf tooth 12 speed shimano ring (saved me from getting new cranks)
XTR trail pedals
Maxxis rubber
Industry Nine Gravity wheel set with Torch hubs just changed the driver to micro spline
Fox 36 Grip 2 with changed air shaft to 150 from 170
Fox dropper with wolf tooth lever
SDG radar saddle
ODI grips
Renthal 50 mm stem
Renthal alloy bars cut to 780 with 20 mm rise
Cane Creek hellbender hedset

Went down to one bike this year getting rid of my Pole 158 and my Tallboy 3. This was going to be my trail
and park bike, however Blue Mountain decided to shitcan mountain biking this year, and maybe for good. Looking forward to 
riding since I had a massive crash at the end of July that ended my season.

Shout out to Cam at the Inside Line in Calgary for getting me this. I heard only a handful of XL's showed up at the turn of year and he was getting only one and I managed to get it. It will be a rare ride here in Ontario.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

depeche4 said:


> Finally finished mine. If it would only stop snowing I could give it a test ride. My buddy has a shock wiz so I am going to try that this week I hope to set it up.
> 
> The stats on it are:
> 
> ...


Nicely done.

I'm in the same boat ride-wise. Trailheads are finally open here following a long COVID-induced shutdown, but apparently we had more snow this past season than at anytime in the last 4 decades.

Still riding my 11-6 equipped Druid on the paved pathways here, pending the trails drying up. In amongst the Electra cruisers and roller bladers. Lol.

PS - why I9 over WAO? Obviously I9 is a great choice. Just wondering what led you there.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nicely done.
> 
> I'm in the same boat ride-wise. Trailheads are finally open here following a long COVID-induced shutdown, but apparently we had more snow this past season than at anytime in the last 4 decades.
> 
> ...


The I9's are off my Pole, I got a smoking deal on them last year (60% off) and they only had half a dozen rides on them before I blew up on my Santa Cruz. I had the same set on that bike and they were bomb proof but sold them and kept the newer set. Not sure if I would go carbon wheels, almost too stiff. I went to an alloy bar after snapping the same bar in carbon last year (half way under the grip). I like stiff, but too stiff at 45, your body starts to feel it.

The micro spline was like 150 bucks from Lama Cycles the Canadian distributor. The only issue is they sent me the wrong one and I had it for like 3 months before I decided to build the bike and then figured it out.

I am looking out the window now it is snowing. So depressing. Ford is opening up provincial parks next Friday so I will be able to hit up 3 Stage first thing and get good ride in.


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> I was feeling ready to get a Druid until I read that article. This sentence doesn't give me the good feels -> 'Under heavy rear braking the bike will sit into its travel and have a hard time recovering.' and nether does this one ' Too much front brake and the rear will sit high up in travel.'
> 
> I haven't tried one yet and don't have a local dealer but the overwhelming positive reviews can't be ignored.


I'm surprised that you found the overall review negative because those two comments were the only minor things he pointed out. This was the first of a multi-part review so I'm sure there will be more to digest soon.

I personally know the reviewer and he is in love with the bike. He messaged me asking what I thought of mine before he dropped the cash and I couldn't think of anything negative so he pulled the trigger. As the review said, he feels faster on this than he did on his previous 160/150mm bike and is riding some seriously gnar stuff on the shore so that should settle any concerns that you have.

I've been on mine for over a year now and initially had a weird creak but that was solved with the V2 link and retorquing the main pivot.


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

onawave said:


> hi all.
> 
> ive been following this thread quite closely.
> 
> ...


My previous bike was a Wreckoning and I rode mostly on the shore and the sea to sky area. This felt just as fast and actually smoother on the same trails I was plowing on the other bike. It is honestly insane how much you can get away with on this bike. It's definitely harder to pop up into a wheelie because the rear end extends but I doubt I'll be going back to any other linkage design after riding a high single pivot.


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

I read a comment on the PB article about the Ziggy Link where someone (possibly local to Forbidden) said the new bike is 180/160 and we already know it's got a 63.5 degree head angle. People holding out for that should really consider if they need something that big because I doubt there are many people that could seriously justify it. The Druid is such a solid trail bike that can still hold its own on the steep / rough stuff and the still be fine for a trip to the bike park. Unless you race enduro or seriously send hard, I think this really is the perfect bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ScrubNub said:


> I'm surprised that you found the overall review negative because those two comments were the only minor things he pointed out. This was the first of a multi-part review so I'm sure there will be more to digest soon.
> 
> I personally know the reviewer and he is in love with the bike. He messaged me asking what I thought of mine before he dropped the cash and I couldn't think of anything negative so he pulled the trigger. As the review said, he feels faster on this than he did on his previous 160/150mm bike and is riding some seriously gnar stuff on the shore so that should settle any concerns that you have.
> 
> I've been on mine for over a year now and initially had a weird creak but that was solved with the V2 link and retorquing the main pivot.


Nice posts. Especially this one. Thanks for the enlightening comments.

I saw the piece about the V2 linkage. My idler **** the bed very early on me. I am now on a V2 idler. I wonder if I should be proactive and hunt down the V2 linkage...

I wasn't all that interested in the Ziggy linkage until I read Owen's comments below the PB article. Everyone I know who has tried a mullet bike found it to be a bizarre experience - one that they did not like. Maybe the Druid is different.


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice posts. Especially this one. Thanks for the enlightening comments.
> 
> I saw the piece about the V2 linkage. My idler **** the bed very early on me. I am now on a V2 idler. I wonder if I should be proactive and hunt down the V2 linkage...
> 
> I wasn't all that interested in the Ziggy linkage until I read Owen's comments below the PB article. Everyone I know who has tried a mullet bike found it to be a bizarre experience - one that they did not like. Maybe the Druid is different.


I'm only just replacing my idler now which is pretty good considering how much I've ridden. The new one is supposed to be more durable as well.

I wouldn't rush to replace the linkage if there's nothing wrong because there were only a handful of people that had the small creak. Yours is definitely fine if you haven't had any issues yet.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

ScrubNub said:


> I read a comment on the PB article about the Ziggy Link where someone (possibly local to Forbidden) said the new bike is 180/160 and we already know it's got a 63.5 degree head angle. People holding out for that should really consider if they need something that big because I doubt there are many people that could seriously justify it. The Druid is such a solid trail bike that can still hold its own on the steep / rough stuff and the still be fine for a trip to the bike park. Unless you race enduro or seriously send hard, I think this really is the perfect bike.


I agree. Was starting to wonder if I should have waited for the bigger travel version but i'm finding the Druid takes all my local trails in it's stride. My Old Wilson DH bike can do trips to the bike park for a laugh.

This new bike from Forbidden will be capable of eating gnarly DH tracks for sure if it is really 180-160!


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

ScrubNub said:


> I'm surprised that you found the overall review negative because those two comments were the only minor things he pointed out. This was the first of a multi-part review so I'm sure there will be more to digest soon.
> 
> I personally know the reviewer and he is in love with the bike. He messaged me asking what I thought of mine before he dropped the cash and I couldn't think of anything negative so he pulled the trigger. As the review said, he feels faster on this than he did on his previous 160/150mm bike and is riding some seriously gnar stuff on the shore so that should settle any concerns that you have.
> 
> I've been on mine for over a year now and initially had a weird creak but that was solved with the V2 link and retorquing the main pivot.


Thanks for the response. I didn't find that review negative but I did notice those two comments which I see as slightly negative. We all know that there's no perfect suspension design as it's all about compromises. However, what's perfect for you might not be perfect for me and visa-versa. I've been reading overwhelming positive reviews for the Druid which is why I'm on here in the first place. The only other bikes I've seen with this amount of positive reviews are the SB130 and Ripmo. I did own a SB100 for about a season and while it felt fast, I was still faster on a Stumpjumper LT on the climbs which was a real head scratcher for me. I also didn't like the stiffening I felt under hard braking in certain situations or the somewhat flexy back end.

The things I like about the Druid, from what I've read, is how it handles square-edge hits and stability when landing drops. On the other side, the potential stiffening under braking and under pedal power have me slightly concerned. I've been riding for about 30 years and have been on most suspension designs with the exception of DW bikes - the caveat is these are older designs of what's out now. I've kept coming back to the Horst-Link due it's active nature but as I'm climbing more these days, I do find it feeling sluggish at times.

Would love to try one out first before making the decision to buy!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I have been riding for about 25 years. In recent times I have had 4 Horst link bikes, two of which I posted photos above. The Druid destroys each one of them at pretty much everything, regardless of being out-gunned travel-wise by up to 30mm in the rear. It almost feels like cheating at times. 

I will not embarrass myself by posting how much money I have spent on bikes trying to find “the one”. The good news is that I think the bleeding has finally stopped.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have been riding for about 25 years. In recent times I have had 4 Horst link bikes, two of which I posted photos above. The Druid destroys each one of them at pretty much everything, regardless of being out-gunned travel-wise by up to 30mm in the rear. It almost feels like cheating at times.
> 
> I will not embarrass myself by posting how much money I have spent on bikes trying to find "the one". The good news is that I think the bleeding has finally stopped.


Thanks for the feedback &#8230; I've been paying attention to your posts since you've been on Horst Link bikes for a bit too and ride terrain I'm familiar with.

I'll probably get one then &#8230; dam &#8230; twist my rubber arm eh?


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Kootenay rider said:


> I was feeling ready to get a Druid until I read that article. This sentence doesn't give me the good feels -> 'Under heavy rear braking the bike will sit into its travel and have a hard time recovering.' and nether does this one ' Too much front brake and the rear will sit high up in travel.'
> 
> I haven't tried one yet and don't have a local dealer but the overwhelming positive reviews can't be ignored.


That's an explanation of anti-rise.

Anti-rise is strong, perhaps excessive with high single pivots. When you use the rear brake, the braking forces compress the rear shock. This contrasts the usual feeling where you brake and your body weight shifts forward, as you are basically bracing against the bike to also slow down. Anti-rise preserves the geo of the bike. Would you rather have the fork dive and rear extend under braking on a steep downslope instead (OTB, or stinkbug feeling)?

Most desirable bikes (Yeti, Santa Cruz, Ibis, Pivot, GG) run enough anti-rise (80-100%) to cause the rear brake to nullify the forward weight shift, so you don't have to counter it yourself. Normally ppl would shift their weight back under braking, but on a bike with strong anti-rise, you can stay forward and low, letting the bike do the job of nullifying.

On a Knolly or Liteville, where anti-rise is minimal (under 35%), you can get your butt back and then execute a Euro nose pivot from that position.

Transition, Cube, Spec, Trek, Giant, Devinci, YT, Canyon and a number of others tend to run anti-rise amounts (35-80%) between these and the more desirable bikes. The Druid, and other high pivots like the old Swarf Curve, Zerode, are on another level higher than Yeti and the others.

Matter of riding style maybe and preference maybe. The way things are trending, people seem to like to stay confidently centered/forward on the bike, thinking that it's old school to get weight rearward. I wouldn't judge it as negative, knowing the trade-offs involved, but it's more of a personal judgement.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

Varaxis said:


> That's an explanation of anti-rise.
> 
> Anti-rise is strong, perhaps excessive with high single pivots. When you use the rear brake, the braking forces compress the rear shock. This contrasts the usual feeling where you brake and your body weight shifts forward, as you are basically bracing against the bike to also slow down. Anti-rise preserves the geo of the bike. Would you rather have the fork dive and rear extend under braking on a steep downslope instead (OTB, or stinkbug feeling)?
> 
> ...


Thats one thing I love about the druid, is being able to stay over the front end. On other bikes when you shift back you lose grip on the front tire. Riding centered is the way to go.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

The frame drama continues. On a recent strip down/clean I noticed that my rear fender was loose and one of the bolts was spinning freely. Seems that the nutsert broke off inside the rear triangle (I probably overtorqued it at some point). Currently trying to figure out how to get the broken nutsert out and hopefully my LBS can rivet a new one in. The idler pulley is also pretty worn and the linkage and drivetrain (idler pulley and lower guide) have needed fairly frequent disassembly and greasing to prevent creak/drag. The bike is great when it's running well, but damn is she high maintenance


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## jeenyus (Aug 25, 2007)

Mgrantorser said:


> Hey, So Im 183 cm on a large druid, and while i didnt testride the HT2, I did testride the Megatower in a large. Despite the numbers on paper, the druid feels a fair bit bigger. The MT was just a hair to small for me, and the druid fits like a glove. Im running a 50mm stem slammed with a one up 35mm bar. I may downsize to a 40 or 45mm stem, but will wait a season to really get comfortable with it first.


Other than size, can you comment on how the Druid rides in relation to the Mega? What kind of terrain are you riding? Did you ride the MT with a coil or air?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> The frame drama continues. On a recent strip down/clean I noticed that my rear fender was loose and one of the bolts was spinning freely. Seems that the nutsert broke off inside the rear triangle (I probably overtorqued it at some point). Currently trying to figure out how to get the broken nutsert out and hopefully my LBS can rivet a new one in. The idler pulley is also pretty worn and the linkage and drivetrain (idler pulley and lower guide) have needed fairly frequent disassembly and greasing to prevent creak/drag. The bike is great when it's running well, but damn is she high maintenance


Holy crap.

Are you generally a little rough on bikes or is the Druid the first bike that has given you recurring issues? Have you been riding it more aggressively than prior bikes?

That is a bad stroke of luck for sure. I feel for you.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

This is definitely the first bike that I've had this many issues with. I've had to replace one rear triangle before a few years back after a bad crash in a rock garden. Not gonna lie, all the bad luck/issues/maintenance is definitely souring the ownership experience for me


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

rpearce1475 said:


> This is definitely the first bike that I've had this many issues with. I've had to replace one rear triangle before a few years back after a bad crash in a rock garden. Not gonna lie, all the bad luck/issues/maintenance is definitely souring the ownership experience for me


Out of curiosity, what's the desired outcome of a damaged frame from a crash in a rock garden? I ask as a bike manufacturer myself, and because I've been racing a bike from another manufacturer which I've broken (twice), both due to circumstances that have no bearing on the quality of manufacture (rock strikes.)


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

_HENDO_ said:


> I agree. Was starting to wonder if I should have waited for the bigger travel version but i'm finding the Druid takes all my local trails in it's stride. My Old Wilson DH bike can do trips to the bike park for a laugh.
> 
> This new bike from Forbidden will be capable of eating gnarly DH tracks for sure if it is really 180-160!


this is the part in kinda struggling with as i begin to formulate plans for a new bike.

for the most part, a 180/160 bike would be overkill for a lot of my local trails. i will soon be 45 years old and pretty fit. mostly ride blacks to light double blacks. im keen on progressing my skill as much as i can within reason.

as a family we do spend fair bit of time in our local alpine - where it most definitely is bigger bike riding. up there around 12 times a year. this is where i feel the bigger bike would come in handy.

in saying that however - watching lewis buchanan ride his stuff on his druid does make me think the druid could handle it.

for more information, we do head into to our local bike park in tassie a couple of times a year. that **** is also pretty gnarly.

kinda wondering (which i think it is) if its worth waiting for their bigger travel bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> this is the part in kinda struggling with as i begin to formulate plans for a new bike.
> 
> for the most part, a 180/160 bike would be overkill for a lot of my local trails. i will soon be 45 years old and pretty fit. mostly ride blacks to light double blacks. im keen on progressing my skill as much as i can within reason.
> 
> ...


Do what some of us here are no doubt going to do...buy both :thumbsup:


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Do what some of us here are no doubt going to do...buy both :thumbsup:


ha. the gatekeeper wife there would be the show stopper


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

smudge said:


> Out of curiosity, what's the desired outcome of a damaged frame from a crash in a rock garden? I ask as a bike manufacturer myself, and because I've been racing a bike from another manufacturer which I've broken (twice), both due to circumstances that have no bearing on the quality of manufacture (rock strikes.)


If I were to answer this, I'd say that my expectation would be for the crash and damage to not happen in the first place. But then again, that's why I don't shop high performance any more. I shop the Toyota of the bike world, where standards are exceeded, and it's expected for the customer to not inspect and maintain the bike meticulously. In other words, I'm not someone who treats their equipment like a baby or trophy, expecting it to be a precision tool optimized for specific use. I'd instead just look to put miles on it safely and reliably, and expect it to be forgiving to any abuse I dish out.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Rock strikes happen, and sharp rocks to the side of a swingarm are going to damage both carbon and alu frames. My expectation would be the frame would be tough enough that any failure would not be catastrophic so you could safely get back to car, and a relatively quick/easy crash replacement policy. 

I'll add to the long travel discussion above, I almost certainly plan on getting one when available. For me the shorter travel Druid is kind of like an awkward in between with a suspension design that wants to just smash, but geometry angles and amount of travel that can hold you back in higher speed rocky stuff (some of this is due to the amount of available fork travel as well). I think for me the ideal solution is a short travel, snappy and poppy trail bike and a slacked out long travel bump eater. The Druid is in between the two, with an efficient, though sedate, pedaling feel (again this is just my opinion) but exceptional bump eating prowess for its amount of travel (far better than some longer travel Horst link bikes I've owned previously). Having (briefly) ridden the new Spesh Enduro on more gnarly trails where I've ridden my Druid frequently, it makes me very excited for what a long travel Forbidden bike could be.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

rpearce1475 said:


> Rock strikes happen, and sharp rocks to the side of a swingarm are going to damage both carbon and alu frames. My expectation would be the frame would be tough enough that any failure would not be catastrophic so you could safely get back to car, and a relatively quick/easy crash replacement policy.
> 
> I'll add to the long travel discussion above, I almost certainly plan on getting one when available. For me the shorter travel Druid is kind of like an awkward in between with a suspension design that wants to just smash, but geometry angles and amount of travel that can hold you back in higher speed rocky stuff (some of this is due to the amount of available fork travel as well). I think for me the ideal solution is a short travel, snappy and poppy trail bike and a slacked out long travel bump eater. The Druid is in between the two, with an efficient, though sedate, pedaling feel (again this is just my opinion) but exceptional bump eating prowess for its amount of travel (far better than some longer travel Horst link bikes I've owned previously). Having (briefly) ridden the new Spesh Enduro on more gnarly trails where I've ridden my Druid frequently, it makes me very excited for what a long travel Forbidden bike could be.


good answer my dude


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

Varaxis said:


> If I were to answer this, I'd say that my expectation would be for the crash and damage to not happen in the first place. But then again, that's why I don't shop high performance any more. I shop the Toyota of the bike world, where standards are exceeded, and it's expected for the customer to not inspect and maintain the bike meticulously. In other words, I'm not someone who treats their equipment like a baby or trophy, expecting it to be a precision tool optimized for specific use. I'd instead just look to put miles on it safely and reliably, and expect it to be forgiving to any abuse I dish out.





rpearce1475 said:


> Rock strikes happen, and sharp rocks to the side of a swingarm are going to damage both carbon and alu frames. My expectation would be the frame would be tough enough that any failure would not be catastrophic so you could safely get back to car, and a relatively quick/easy crash replacement policy.


Interesting, thanks for sharing. Frame longevity and impacts are kind of a wormhole, especially with carbon. When you start to look at perceived value, purchase cost, production numbers and cost (replacement cost amortization) and the warranty policy balanced against customer expectations...it's a lot to juggle.

Anyhow, I'm really hoping I can budget in whatever long travel bike Forbidden has lined up and possibly a Druid as well...and hoping we can get back to racing and traveling sometime soon. My family was set to take a trip up to Cumberland this summer and we'll definitely be missing it, it's a fun little town.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

smudge said:


> ...Anyhow, I'm really hoping I can budget in whatever long travel bike Forbidden has lined up and possibly a Druid as well...and hoping we can get back to racing and traveling sometime soon. My family was set to take a trip up to Cumberland this summer and we'll definitely be missing it, it's a fun little town.


Cumberland ROCKS. I love the riding there (except I am not a fan of climbing on fire roads, which seems to be the norm there).

Speaking of which, page 5. Wow. I bet Jerry is up there smiling down on this...


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Cumberland ROCKS. I love the riding there (except I am not a fan of climbing on fire roads, which seems to be the norm there).
> 
> Speaking of which, page 5. Wow. I bet Jerry is up there smiling down on this...


It really does. My family met the family of my good friend and best customer so I could deliver a bike to him back in 2017. They traveled all the way from Glasgow to meet us. The little town couldn't be more perfect for families...dog park, BMX track, jump park, water park, donut shop and enough places to get food. It doesn't hurt that the water in Courtney is oddly warm. We took the girls (5, 7, 8 at the time) to the BMX track every morning, run our dog in the field next to it, Jon and I would go ride until my body quit and then he'd go out for more while I went with our wives, girls and dog to swim until dinner time. The only tough thing is to find a place in Dodge City that's big enough for two families. Can't wait to go back next summer.

I'm with you on the climbs. Some of those gravel roads on the west side are rough. I remember climbing for a long time on some freshly laid gravel in search of Queso Grande, only to find that it had essentially been deforested and partially erased. We bushwacked for a while and eventually found the trail, which ended up being one of our favorites from the trip. Interestingly, when we exited one section, we saw this going back the way we came.

__
http://instagr.am/p/BXRpc6_A-WB/


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Chain length question for Large frames and Sram drivetrains with 30t chainring. How many extra links and how did you add them? Seems like 2 powerlinks are the only option but that doesn’t seem like an awesome idea.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Kootenay rider said:


> Chain length question for Large frames and Sram drivetrains with 30t chainring. How many extra links and how did you add them? Seems like 2 powerlinks are the only option but that doesn't seem like an awesome idea.


You could try Shimano XT 12 speed 126 link chain. That's what I use on mine. I'm still on SRAM 11 speed and a 28 tooth chainring. J


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Someone on Eagle and 30 tooth could give you their exact link length. J


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Thanks for the reply - Sram chains are 126 links too and it sounds like slightly longer is needed.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> Chain length question for Large frames and Sram drivetrains with 30t chainring. How many extra links and how did you add them? Seems like 2 powerlinks are the only option but that doesn't seem like an awesome idea.


I have large frame with a 30 tooth ring and a POS (that's piece of $hit) XO Eagle drivetrain on mine that I can't wait to replace with a Shimano. I can't remember how many extra links are required but in the end we added two powerlinks equally spaced apart (if that makes sense). I can count the extra links if you want. It wasn't many. Maybe 2?


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have large frame with a 30 tooth ring and a POS (that's piece of $hit) XO Eagle drivetrain on mine that I can't wait to replace with a Shimano. I can't remember how many extra links are required but in the end we added two powerlinks equally spaced apart (if that makes sense). I can count the extra links if you want. It wasn't many. Maybe 2?


Thanks for the feedback and don't worry about counting links! I'll get it sorted when it comes in (should be early next week) and I'll make sure to post up my thoughts after some rides. Are your Eagle drivetrain woes specific to this bike or in general?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> Thanks for the feedback and don't worry about counting links! I'll get it sorted when it comes in (should be early next week) and I'll make sure to post up my thoughts after some rides. Are your Eagle drivetrain woes specific to this bike or in general?


Seems to be a little worse. This particular drivetrain was swapped over from my previous bike. It was a POS of **** on that bike too, but perhaps a little less so.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Ziggy link is out... but I'd be interested in a 29r Ziggy - drop BB and slacken HT°.

I would buy one yesterday ;-)

Anybody else interested?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> Ziggy link is out... but I'd be interested in a 29r Ziggy - drop BB and slacken HT°.
> 
> I would buy one yesterday ;-)
> 
> Anybody else interested?


Kinda, but I don't have a 27.5 wheel set.

Nor do I have a V2 link.

Both prerequisites.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

No... I hear you on the V2 link.

I meant a Ziggy for 29 wheels - running 29 rear wheel but getting the BB drop and HT° slackened.


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

cheezwhip said:


> No... I hear you on the V2 link.
> 
> I meant a Ziggy for 29 wheels - running 29 rear wheel but getting the BB drop and HT° slackened.


It actually would do the opposite, the 27.5 wheels drops and slackens, the Ziggy link counteracts that halfway.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Not use the Ziggy for 29r.

I'll call it the zAggy: A potential 29r specific link that drops the BB slackens HT° for a regular 29r rear wheel set up.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

So I wasn't able to get the stripped nutsert out of the rear triangle and the bike shops I called weren't super keen on the idea of taking a dremel to a carbon frame. I ended up ziptieing a smaller fork mudguard in place of the rear mudguard and will just get a new rear triangle when I replace the Druid with the longer travel version whenever it's released. I purchased a lightweight XC/trail bike and will be building the Druid up super beefy for the more aggressive downhill/shuttle/park riding (again until the LT version comes out). Coil rear shock and coil fork, beefy tires, etc. Currently trying to decide on 160 fork vs 150 fork with -1 angleset, any opinions?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

I have a Large with 30T/Eagle, the mechanic at my LBS didn't have to add any extra links. runs great!


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Kmag76 said:


> I have a Large with 30T/Eagle, the mechanic at my LBS didn't have to add any extra links. runs great!


Sweet, that's good to hear. Thanks


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I have a Large with 30T/Eagle, the mechanic at my LBS didn't have to add any extra links. runs great!


Interesting. Maybe that's the trick.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

rpearce1475 said:


> So I wasn't able to get the stripped nutsert out of the rear triangle and the bike shops I called weren't super keen on the idea of taking a dremel to a carbon frame. I ended up ziptieing a smaller fork mudguard in place of the rear mudguard and will just get a new rear triangle when I replace the Druid with the longer travel version whenever it's released. I purchased a lightweight XC/trail bike and will be building the Druid up super beefy for the more aggressive downhill/shuttle/park riding (again until the LT version comes out). Coil rear shock and coil fork, beefy tires, etc. Currently trying to decide on 160 fork vs 150 fork with -1 angleset, any opinions?


Shouldn't be too hard to drill out the insert and put a new one in! I wouldn't use a dremel. You can purchase an actual extract kit. You drill out the center the use the tool to pull it out. Works perfect!


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## AKRCD47 (Sep 5, 2019)

rpearce1475 said:


> So I wasn't able to get the stripped nutsert out of the rear triangle and the bike shops I called weren't super keen on the idea of taking a dremel to a carbon frame. I ended up ziptieing a smaller fork mudguard in place of the rear mudguard and will just get a new rear triangle when I replace the Druid with the longer travel version whenever it's released. I purchased a lightweight XC/trail bike and will be building the Druid up super beefy for the more aggressive downhill/shuttle/park riding (again until the LT version comes out). Coil rear shock and coil fork, beefy tires, etc. Currently trying to decide on 160 fork vs 150 fork with -1 angleset, any opinions?


Ive done both, I think I like the 160 better. Only reason I did the angleset was to shorten the top tube and it didnt do much. Suspension feels super balanced at 160 up front and 130 out back

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

FWIW, using the angleset would reduce reach by just over 1mm on a size large. It would be slightly different for each frame size, but the difference is so small that it's irrelevant. Putting on a +10mm travel fork reduces HTA by 0.4° (unsagged) and reach by 4.7mm (unsagged)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

The problem with putting a 160 fork on is that it voids your warranty. If you care about these things, which I do.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

On the nsmb article the author mentions Forbidden is now more vague regarding this and they've mentioned on social media they're doing testing with 160mm forks to possibly change this. For what it's worth my fork is a cane creek helm coil that's already around 8mm shorter a2c than the fox 36 they base the geo off of


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Here is a question that fits solely in the "Hot Or Not" category: Gloss Moss Druid + 2021 Root Beer Fox 36? I currently have black lowers on my 36. Straight trade...


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Hawt!


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Long time lurker- infrequent poster here.  
I have about 130 miles on my Druid, so I thought I'd contribute to the conversation.

*About me:* 5'11" 165 lbs with gear on; expert level rider. Previous bike was 2018 27.5" Devinci Spartan.

*Bike facts:*

Size large

15 mm spacer below, 35 mm stem, 20 mm rise bars.

Rear shock settings: 155 psi, rebound 4 clicks from open, compression 2 clicks from open, stock token.

Drivetrain Shimano XTR 12 speed; 32 tooth chainring; 130 links

Fork. Marzocchi Z1 coil, 150mm, firm spring, rebound 11 clicks from closed, compression ~1'o'clock position.

The frame easily accepts 180mm OneUp dropper post.

Weighs ~34 lbs with heavy tires, edc tool and pump, and a coil fork.

*Problems I've had:*

From the factory the frame was missing the inner washer that holds the idler pulley. I wouldn't have recognized it, except that I took it apart and was looking over the technical drawings. Forbidden/Fanatik were good about getting it sorted quickly though.

In certain mud/silty conditions the lower chain guide pulley appears to seize up, causing a god-awful noise and allowing the chain to dig into the rubber. It's happened twice on longer rides. I have re-greased it and loosened the torque, so hopefully it doesn't happen again. This appears to be the weakest link in the drivetrain system. I've noticed that my regular chain lube (Rock'n'Roll Gold) doesn't hold up as well with all the extra drivetrain action, so I have switched over to a Dumonde product that seems to be working better.

 The cable housing/brake hose entering the swing arm makes a gritty/grindy noise when the suspension compresses.

*Ride impressions: *

Over all, very satisfying. This is the quietest bike I have ever ridden. No chain-slap, and the drivetrain is tolerable unless the lower chain guide is acting up. It's a solid ride and I adjusted to it very quickly from my previous bike.

I am faster on this bike, according to Strava. I haven't always felt faster, but looking at the times, there are significant differences, especially for early in the season.

Climbing is generally good. The position and seat tube angle are perfect and the reach is comfortable for me. The rear suspension feels pretty firm in regards to pedaling efforts. I would never want to use the climb switch (but generally haven't used that on any other bike I've owned recently). The bike doesn't fly up hills, which makes sense given my heavy tires and build, but it is efficient. The only time I haven't felt as good is super low-speed techy climbing, where the rear has felt a bit wallowy. I think it may be a shock set up issue with striking the right balance between fast rebound and low speed control. I tried the middle compression position on the shock and it delivered less traction. I think it is a LSR issue, but since I don't spend much of my rides on these super difficult climbs, I am going to live with it.

Descending is awesome, as many have noted, especially in high speed chunk. If you can stay off the brakes, it just rips. Definitely run as fast of rebound as you can tolerate for max performance. Cornering is also superb. The only thing I have missed a bit, coming off of a 170mm bike is the front end feel you get in super steep terrain with drops. It just isn't quite the same, and requires a different approach. I will be interested to try my fork at 160mm if it's not Forbidden.

Also, I'm by no means a manual champ, but haven't had any difficulties compared to previous bikes and find that the bike is also plenty easy to wheelie.

Let me know if you have any questions. I will post some pics when I get a chance. Next things I am going to experiment with are a coil shock and maybe 160mm up front if that is cleared by Forbidden.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

northerngnar said:


> Long time lurker- infrequent poster here.
> I have about 130 miles on my Druid, so I thought I'd contribute to the conversation.
> 
> *About me:* 5'11" 165 lbs with gear on; expert level rider. Previous bike was 2018 27.5" Devinci Spartan.
> ...


Awesome post. Some of my observations are the same as yours, while others are different.

No issues with any cable housings or lower chain guide, but I blew up the idler pulley early on. I'm a little surprised you are not running the rear compression wide open. Unlike you (unfortunately), I find the bike a little tough to manual.

I'm running an 11-6 this year (and a 150mm 36 GRIP2 with a Luftkappe). Time will tell how good or bad this set up is. I may end up giving in to the urge and go with a Smashpot soon.

Great to hear from a fellow Druid rider.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

northerngnar said:


> Long time lurker- infrequent poster here.
> I have about 130 miles on my Druid, so I thought I'd contribute to the conversation.
> 
> *About me:* 5'11" 165 lbs with gear on; expert level rider. Previous bike was 2018 27.5" Devinci Spartan.
> ...


what bike did you come from? your a similar height to me and im currently on a 150 where the reach is quite long - 480. where i buy my bikes from they were saying you dont want to go backwards in reach if that makes sense.

in saying that - forbidden obviously recommend the large. which would be a shorter reach than what im used to.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Here's my first impressions - I jumped in and I'm not disappointed!

*Me* - lots of experience since the Freeride scene of the 90's and up within BC Canada. Been on a 2019 Stumpjumper LT/Evo 29 (which have been awesome but the climbing can feel heavy at times) and prior to that a Yeti SB100, various models from Trek, Rocky, Specialized and Norco.

*Climbing* - biggest thing here for me was the lack of pedal kickback which I've never experienced before. I'm used to that added force needed to pedal up and over a rock, root, etc especially on a steep climb (50t outback). With the Druid, that's gone - I was bracing for it but it wasn't there. This means I can climb up sections feeling less wasted by the top - very, very cool. Overall traction was as good as I've felt and it's a supportive bike. Can run the shock open for everything except the smooth stuff. Now I didn't PR any climbs but my legs were also feeling pretty cooked from the day before. However, one of the toughest climbs in my area almost always leaves me very winded by the top and I felt noticeably more 'fresh' on the Druid that day.

*Descending* - the reviews and what I've read are right on the money here for me. I PR'd a descent and was within 4s of a 2012 record on another trail. The bike picks up speed like nothing else I've ridden and can hold it with it's geometry and low BB - it does this without feeling overly plush but very supportive. My Fox36 Grip 2 didn't feel great compared to the rear and I need to adjust the setup. I didn't notice any brake jack or at least didn't feel it. I also found the bike pretty intuitive to ride contrary to what I've read from some.
*
Issues/Downsides* - the chain rubs on the swing arm chain guard in the smallest cog (10t) with a 30t chainring. I have a wear line in it already - makes me wonder how long it will last before it's on the frame, bummed if I can't use that cog though. The other issue is a slight clunk/knock when picking up the rear of the bike that you can feel and hear. I torqued all the bolts to spec but can still faintly feel it and can't seem to pinpoint it. Low BB means 165mm cranks are a good idea!

Overall I'm thrilled with the Druid but those small issues dull the overall impression a bit. Look forward to riding it more and will update if there's anything of note to mention.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

My did the clunk/knock too. I ended up taking the rear triangle off completely and reassembling and it went away


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Kootenay rider said:


> The other issue is a slight clunk/knock when picking up the rear of the bike that you can feel and hear. I torqued all the bolts to spec but can still faintly feel it and can't seem to pinpoint it.


I also experienced it and isolated it to the front shock mount. You can feel it if you put your finger between the frame and the shock eyelet. I re-greased the hardware and torqued to spec and it's less noticeable now.

Also Fox says this "All shock mounting hardware will have some inherent level of axial float which is required to achieve smooth performance. This is normal and is not a safety or performance concern. If your shock mounting hardware exhibits what you believe to be excessive float or makes noise, please contact FOX for assistance. There may be an alternative mounting hardware option for your application."


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

onawave said:


> what bike did you come from? your a similar height to me and im currently on a 150 where the reach is quite long - 480. where i buy my bikes from they were saying you dont want to go backwards in reach if that makes sense.
> 
> in saying that - forbidden obviously recommend the large. which would be a shorter reach than what im used to.


I came from a 2018 Devinci Spartan, 27.5", large. I think the reach was 465mm. So this feels very similar, which made getting used to the Druid very intuitive. I would caution against using reach as the only factor when deciding if geometry will suit you. The overall length/wheelbase, chain stay length and effective seat tube angle also play a big factor. My experience with the Druid is that while the front end isn't the longest, the overall length of the bike and longer chain stays (compared to my previous bike), and rearward axle path make up for some of that stability. I feel very "central" in the bike and it makes weighting the front end more intuitive for me.

The bike is not wanting for stability in high speed and steep situations. Yet I think if it had gobs longer reach it would be annoying in tight/slow conditions. YMMV


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Kmag76 said:


> I have a Large with 30T/Eagle, the mechanic at my LBS didn't have to add any extra links. runs great!


I can confirm on my build that the stock 126 link chain works fine, no need to add links.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Nice to hear others noticed the clunk/knock in the rear as well. It was very noticeable after building it and the front shock bolt seemed to need the most tightening. 

I just checked everything out again and it is the front shock mount that has the slight movement. It's very minimal but it's there.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I had the clunk, but it was a loose bolt up high on the frame. Tightened it and the clunk disappeared.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Got out and rode the same route as my last ride on the Druid back in October. Didn't feel fast, but got a PR on a 2.6km climb, so I guess it still works. The new fork felt pretty good, but I'm not using anywhere near full travel. The slight rise to the front end meant I didn't have any pedal strikes, which was nice. The back end felt great, so of course I need to tinker...

Anyone have any tuning tips for a 2021 Fox X2? I dialled back the rebound and it feels fine hopping around my basement, but I'm hoping to optimize a bit before I take the Druid out again.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I got out on my Druid as well this weekend.

My 2.5/2.4 Minions felt sluggish today. Then again, I wasn't exactly in full on, animal rage training mode over COVID, so there's that.

I need to get a lot of miles in, very quickly, to make up for lost time.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Got out and rode the same route as my last ride on the Druid back in October. Didn't feel fast, but got a PR on a 2.6km climb, so I guess it still works. The new fork felt pretty good, but I'm not using anywhere near full travel. The slight rise to the front end meant I didn't have any pedal strikes, which was nice. The back end felt great, so of course I need to tinker...
> 
> Anyone have any tuning tips for a 2021 Fox X2? I dialled back the rebound and it feels fine hopping around my basement, but I'm hoping to optimize a bit before I take the Druid out again.


I have never owned an X2, but experienced guys I know (some who are long time bike shop employees) had to resort to a ShockWiz to get in the ballpark. That X2 (pre-2021) was like a Rubik's Cube for them.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have never owned an X2, but experienced guys I know (some who are long time bike shop employees) had to resort to a ShockWiz to get in the ballpark. That X2 (pre-2021) was like a Rubik's Cube for them.


Hmmm. I have an X2 on my Banshee and had one on my Trek, and they were pretty easy to set up. I'll likely just dial back the rebound damping on the Druid and see what happens.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Hmmm. I have an X2 on my Banshee and had one on my Trek, and they were pretty easy to set up. I'll likely just dial back the rebound damping on the Druid and see what happens.


Not surprising. Those guys are lovers of the weed. Chronic.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

Well, I have had half a dozen rides now and some observations. As most here I compare it to what I was coming off. It is fast going downhill, not as fast as my Pole which is a dragster in a straight line. However, I like the fact that I can play on this bike with the rear end, something I thought would kill me on the Pole. It climbs better than my Santa Cruz even though it does not feel fast I am faster when checking the numbers. I find the traction to be amazing, it just keeps going and I know it is not from me being in some amazing shape, because I am not really.

Now that being said, I set this up with the help of my buddy Roger at INTUNE (Ontario's best suspension guy who just happened to pick up his own Druid too) who used a shock wiz in the rear and a sussed out suspension thingy up front. I put the biggest spacer in the DPX2 with 180 pounds of air, and 85 and two spacers up front on the 36.

In the flowy stuff this thing takes on a life of its own, nice and poppy and fun to try and gap stuff. The rearward axle path is nice that you do not get bucked in the choppy rock stuff.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

depeche4 said:


> Well, I have had half a dozen rides now and some observations. As most here I compare it to what I was coming off. It is fast going downhill, not as fast as my Pole which is a dragster in a straight line. However, I like the fact that I can play on this bike with the rear end, something I thought would kill me on the Pole. It climbs better than my Santa Cruz even though it does not feel fast I am faster when checking the numbers. I find the traction to be amazing, it just keeps going and I know it is not from me being in some amazing shape, because I am not really.
> 
> Now that being said, I set this up with the help of my buddy Roger at INTUNE (Ontario's best suspension guy who just happened to pick up his own Druid too) who used a shock wiz in the rear and a sussed out suspension thingy up front. I put the biggest spacer in the DPX2 with 180 pounds of air, and 85 and two spacers up front on the 36.
> 
> In the flowy stuff this thing takes on a life of its own, nice and poppy and fun to try and gap stuff. The rearward axle path is nice that you do not get bucked in the choppy rock stuff.


What's your riding weight?


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

With a pack (2 liters of water and some tools) 195 ish give or take a beer.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Ordering parts for my build. What brakes is everyone running? I’m currently on Hope Tech 3 E4’s but open to trying something else. TRP’s seem to be getting some great reviews, any other options I should look at. 


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

I've been running Magura MT5s (with the 4 pc MT7 pads and 203mm rotors) and they are awesome for feel and power. The bleed takes a "special touch" but once you figure it out, you're golden. The levers are just OK on the MT5...definitely fancier and more options for the MT7, but the caliper is the same.


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## depeche4 (Dec 2, 2012)

New xtr trails, more powerful than the saints I had on my Pole. I only got them because I got a sweet deal on them. The xt 4 pistons are nice too and you can find take off's on pinkbike cheap. I saw a guy selling a set brand new in box (when I was looking in the late winter) for 250 Canadian. Which is like 6 bucks U.S.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

depeche4 said:


> I saw a guy selling a set brand new in box (when I was looking in the late winter) for 250 Canadian. Which is like 6 bucks U.S.


Literally LOL. Classic, thanks

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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Ordering parts for my build. What brakes is everyone running? I'm currently on Hope Tech 3 E4's but open to trying something else. TRP's seem to be getting some great reviews, any other options I should look at.
> 
> I got sick and tired of sticky hope pistons needing service every month. I got the new trp dhr evos as soon as they released with 2.3mm 203 front and rear. These are just as powerful as code RSCs and have a super light and modulable lever feel. I dislike shimano due to wandering bite and lack of power after the initial bite. Trp have been the most reliable and easy to bleed brakes I have owned and I swear by them.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

senorbanana said:


> C0Mtnbkr said:
> 
> 
> > Ordering parts for my build. What brakes is everyone running? I'm currently on Hope Tech 3 E4's but open to trying something else. TRP's seem to be getting some great reviews, any other options I should look at.
> ...


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Running formula cura 4s on my druid. Gold color matches the gold i9 hubs and stem perfectly


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Ordering parts for my build. What brakes is everyone running? I'm currently on Hope Tech 3 E4's but open to trying something else. TRP's seem to be getting some great reviews, any other options I should look at.


XT 4-pots here. I also put them on my DH bike, replacing Saints. I am interested in the TRP brakes as well, but haven't had an opportunity to try them.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

pinkrobe said:


> XT 4-pots here. I also put them on my DH bike, replacing Saints. I am interested in the TRP brakes as well, but haven't had an opportunity to try them.


I really like the TRPs. I think the consensus is the stock pads kinda suck, but you can run Shimano pads. On longer, steeper descents I find I could use a little more power (180mm rotors, 170 lbs), so I'll make the change sometime. The Druid's so smooth I find I probably brake less, and have more energy and less tension. Plus, most of my riding is quick laps these days. Anyway, the TRPs power comes on smooth and increases steadily. I think they're like the Codes - I brake I also quite like. Feels funny to say that given how bad SRAM's brakes were, but here we are. Anyway, if you like Codes, I would say TRP are similar with benefits of using mineral oil - if that's a perk for you, and possibly cheaper. I'd love to try Cura 4s, but they're a little more pricey.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Curas more pricey? They were cheaper than another set of Saints (what I had used for years) when I was looking. Look at universal cycles they're like 170 a piece vs 200+ for shimano or sram stuff


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## MqtRider (Mar 22, 2004)

*2021 Druid Colors and ETA*

Anybody know what the two new colors are going to be for 2021 and their ETA?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

MqtRider said:


> Anybody know what the two new colors are going to be for 2021 and their ETA?


Seems purple will be one. I believe the next load isn't due in until late July and that may have changed with CV19? Fanatik shows back ordered until late July (25th I think).

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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Gotten a few more rides in and here's some more thoughts:

- Setting PR's on all the downhills so far - it's fast and keeps rolling without hanging up, I've been able to hit some gaps that I could never seem to get enough speed for before. Also washboard sections feel amazingly smooth.
- Clunking was fixed by torqueing the front shock bolt just past spec - could be my torque wrench is out of calibration
- Read the whole thread and reduced the B tension down to almost nothing, still wearing into the chainstay protector - will most likely have to go back to the 90's version of wrapping the arm with spare tubes as it ain't gonna last!
- I'm ~200lbs ready to ride and tried 200, 235 and 245 in the DPX2 - settled on 240psi (~33% sag or 18mm) and no spacer (for now). 200psi worked out OK but the sag was too much for my liking - felt like my STA lost 2 degrees and I was peddling from the back of the bike &#8230; climbing felt more like my Stumpjumper! Important stuff for me as this is my daily driver and unfortunately I spend a lot of time climbing to get to the good stuff.
- Fox 36 Grip 2 set @ 100psi and no spacers - still runs more sag than 20% but allows me to use most of the travel
- Haven't set any climbing PR's but it's very close &#8230; frame feels very stiff laterally and when hammering out of the saddle 
- Drivetrain is noisy but only when doing those slow, steep climbs - doesn't bother me but you can hear it

Overall, still extremely pleased with the bike!

*Edit:* Got a new shock pump and realized my above settings are wacked - new pump falls more inline with what I've read. Currently running 200psi in the DPX2 and 90psi in the Fox36 - no spacers. Thought I'd update incase someone is still reading this!


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Deleted


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Got the 2021 Fox X2 installed on the Druid and went for a rip on a trail I'm very familiar with, although today was my first go at it this season. It's a blue loop with variable terrain and surfaces, from loose over hard to big roots to sloppy mud to rock gardens. I made other changes to the bike before heading out, including removing a volume spacer from the fork. The shock is set up with the HSR 1 click back from open, LSR 2 clicks back from open, LSC open, and HSC in the middle. I didn't change the air pressure, which is about halfway between undressed and ready to ride [1 psi : 1 lbs body weight]. The fork is set with 25% sag, and I backed LSC off a few clicks but had to bring it back toward the middle after the front end was diving more than I liked.

Climbing: Set a PR through an uphill rock garden without even trying, and had zero slippage on bare roots despite rolling through some wet sections immediately prior. Even better, I'm using a "trail" tire [Bontrager SE4] in back instead of my preferred Minion DHR2. Traction for days. With the slightly longer fork [2021 Fox 36 150 vs Rock Shox Pike Ultimate 140], I had zero pedal strikes.

Tech: This is the Druid's strength, and it's very strong indeed here. With the rebound fast, there wasn't anything that upset it. The fork had a bit more trouble keeping up on hard impacts [i.e. bigger roots]. A little less HSC might help? Better rider skill?

Air: Anytime I decided to jump stuff instead of rumbling through it, I was rewarded with a pillow-soft, controlled landing. Case dismissed. Note that this trail doesn't have jumps per se, just places where roots and rocks have combined to make opportunities to get your wheels off the ground.

Corners: I'm used to riding this loop on bigger, less agile bikes [Ibis Ripmo V1, Trek Slash], where I have to overcompensate by keeping my weight forward all the time. I had to consciously re-center myself today, or I was going over the bars for sure. The added LSC in the fork helped to keep the bike from diving in corners. I also really need to practice my cornering. It's like I forgot everything over the winter.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> Got the 2021 Fox X2 installed on the Druid and went for a rip on a trail I'm very familiar with, although today was my first go at it this season. It's a blue loop with variable terrain and surfaces, from loose over hard to big roots to sloppy mud to rock gardens. I made other changes to the bike before heading out, including removing a volume spacer from the fork. The shock is set up with the HSR 1 click back from open, LSR 2 clicks back from open, LSC open, and HSC in the middle. I didn't change the air pressure, which is about halfway between undressed and ready to ride [1 psi : 1 lbs body weight]. The fork is set with 25% sag, and I backed LSC off a few clicks but had to bring it back toward the middle after the front end was diving more than I liked.
> 
> Climbing: Set a PR through an uphill rock garden without even trying, and had zero slippage on bare roots despite rolling through some wet sections immediately prior. Even better, I'm using a "trail" tire [Bontrager SE4] in back instead of my preferred Minion DHR2. Traction for days. With the slightly longer fork [2021 Fox 36 150 vs Rock Shox Pike Ultimate 140], I had zero pedal strikes.
> 
> ...


Did you have the DPX2 fitted previously? Does it seem like the X2 will be a keeper for you? Last question... what's your rider weight? Building mine up right now, worried about being able to get the X2 dialed in correctly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Got the 2021 Fox X2 installed on the Druid and went for a rip on a trail I'm very familiar with, although today was my first go at it this season. It's a blue loop with variable terrain and surfaces, from loose over hard to big roots to sloppy mud to rock gardens. I made other changes to the bike before heading out, including removing a volume spacer from the fork. The shock is set up with the HSR 1 click back from open, LSR 2 clicks back from open, LSC open, and HSC in the middle. I didn't change the air pressure, which is about halfway between undressed and ready to ride [1 psi : 1 lbs body weight]. The fork is set with 25% sag, and I backed LSC off a few clicks but had to bring it back toward the middle after the front end was diving more than I liked.
> 
> Climbing: Set a PR through an uphill rock garden without even trying, and had zero slippage on bare roots despite rolling through some wet sections immediately prior. Even better, I'm using a "trail" tire [Bontrager SE4] in back instead of my preferred Minion DHR2. Traction for days. With the slightly longer fork [2021 Fox 36 150 vs Rock Shox Pike Ultimate 140], I had zero pedal strikes.
> 
> ...


I'm trying to figure out the loop...

I may blast Merlin tomorrow.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Ziggy is on board. I'm gonna ride some familiar trails tomorrow. She's choppered out pretty good. 160 front with Ziggy slackening her a shade more. J


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm trying to figure out the loop...
> 
> I may blast Merlin tomorrow.


Bragging is supposed to be stupid wet right now, especially after today's rain. Telephone - Demi-Tel - Reconnect - Merlin might be better. I rode Ranger-Strange. Boundary was ass.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Did you have the DPX2 fitted previously? Does it seem like the X2 will be a keeper for you? Last question... what's your rider weight? Building mine up right now, worried about being able to get the X2 dialed in correctly.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Riding weight is 170 lbs, and I did have the DPX2 on before. I think I can bump up the rear pressure a little more, maybe to 180.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> Riding weight is 170 lbs, and I did have the DPX2 on before. I think I can bump up the rear pressure a little more, maybe to 180.


Thanks for the info. Do you like the feel of the X2 better than the DPX2 so far?

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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Hi everyone.

I'm hoping that some of you with a ton of ride time might be able to help answer a question about the Druid. 

I am super interested in the bike, but I am concerned about the drivetrain for where I live and how I ride. I'm in north Van and trails are usually wet, often really wet and muddy. I also tend to do long rides with a lot of climbing. Riding for 3-6 hours a day is usual for me. I know that the bike climbs well and has a great pedaling platform, but can anyone assess the extra drag in the drivetrain due to the added elements: idler pulley, lower roller and longer chain? What happens when it gets dirty? is it like on other bikes? is it worse? what do you think about the efficiency of it as a pedaler vs other bikes given my conditions?


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I'm 200lbs and the bike is 35lbs with a coils on both ends and in 50 hours and 250 miles in the last 2 months in the PNW riding galbraith, chuckanut, and the surrounding areas. I haven't been uncomfortable on 3 hour pedals at all, and I'll go nearly every day. 

With post-ride wash and lube I haven't had any problems with anything but the dropper post from PNW(slow to rise but nothing major) and the rear thru axle coming loose, which a little loc-tite fixed. My group of riders are mainly on transitions and I've never been the one to hold up the group tinkering or fixing anything.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> I picked up the bike and am very excited to take it out. I do notice the chain resting on the stay protector on the smallest cog, but overall I'm very happy.


On another note, how has the chain rub been in the smallest cog? Did you wear through the protector? Did it wear completely through or did you manage to fix the issue somehow?

I'm wearing through mine every ride and watching it closely to make sure it doesn't start on the frame.

Thanks


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I've stayed off the smallest cog and changed my B tension turning it into an 11 speed. It isn't the right answer but it I'd something I can compromise on.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Here's hoping they come out with a re-designed swingarm and offer up a discount to current owners! With the current design I don't see any way to avoid it …. unless the idler pulley grows in diameter which would change the suspension design somewhat.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Thanks for the info. Do you like the feel of the X2 better than the DPX2 so far?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Tough call. The X2 is super-buttery, but the DPX2 was set and forget. I set the shock to my riding weight in PSI and was instantly rewarded. I feel I'm very close on the X2 after one ride. I just want a bit more pop, so a bit more air and a little less rebound...


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> Tough call. The X2 is super-buttery, but the DPX2 was set and forget. I set the shock to my riding weight in PSI and was instantly rewarded. I feel I'm very close on the X2 after one ride. I just want a bit more pop, so a bit more air and a little less rebound...


Yea, that's what I'm worried about. I'm lazy and have no mechanic skills so the X2 is a bit intimidating. I had a Cane Creek DB2 on a previous bike and it proved to be too much adjustability, super hard to get dialed in.

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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

jeenyus said:


> Other than size, can you comment on how the Druid rides in relation to the Mega? What kind of terrain are you riding? Did you ride the MT with a coil or air?


When i tested the Mega I took it on a super punchy techy climb, then a black trail (in BC) thats a mix of newschool flow, a couple slabs, and some steep tech. I had a coil rear and air front.

I found the mega didnt climb even close to as well which is not that surprising. I think SC has focused a bit too hard on getting the vpp to descend well in the most recent iteration, at the cost of efficient pedalling. I also noticed a lot more kickback in slow chunky bits. It was no where near as quick through bermed flowy descents, felt about the same confidence wise on steep rocks, and notably more plush on straight line chunder. That said, while the druid def transmits more chunder to the rider, I dont think Im any slower on it. All in all, i think the difference is: worse climbing, more kickback, worse cornering, and the benefits youd expect from the extra travel.

I also probably dont ride fast enough for a MT. I was considering the HT but couldnt find a demo.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Mgrantorser said:


> When i tested the Mega I took it on a super punchy techy climb, then a black trail (in BC) thats a mix of newschool flow, a couple slabs, and some steep tech. I had a coil rear and air front.
> 
> I found the mega didnt climb even close to as well which is not that surprising. I think SC has focused a bit too hard on getting the vpp to descend well in the most recent iteration, at the cost of efficient pedalling. I also noticed a lot more kickback in slow chunky bits. It was no where near as quick through bermed flowy descents, felt about the same confidence wise on steep rocks, and notably more plush on straight line chunder. That said, while the druid def transmits more chunder to the rider, I dont think Im any slower on it. All in all, i think the difference is: worse climbing, more kickback, worse cornering, and the benefits youd expect from the extra travel.
> 
> I also probably dont ride fast enough for a MT. I was considering the HT but couldnt find a demo.


how did you find the "step down" to less travel coming from the megatower?


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Iamblichus said:


> Hi everyone.
> 
> I'm hoping that some of you with a ton of ride time might be able to help answer a question about the Druid.
> 
> I am super interested in the bike, but I am concerned about the drivetrain for where I live and how I ride. I'm in north Van and trails are usually wet, often really wet and muddy. I also tend to do long rides with a lot of climbing. Riding for 3-6 hours a day is usual for me. I know that the bike climbs well and has a great pedaling platform, but can anyone assess the extra drag in the drivetrain due to the added elements: idler pulley, lower roller and longer chain? What happens when it gets dirty? is it like on other bikes? is it worse? what do you think about the efficiency of it as a pedaler vs other bikes given my conditions?


I live in northwestern BC with similar conditions. I havent put it through sequential long days yet because of covid, but my experience and the consensus from reviews ive read is keep it clean. Im religious with Boeshield (with propper application) and scraping the schmutz of my jockey wheels. To date, with consistent 4-5 hours riding a week my chain is pristine with this. That said, north van is a meat grinder. Re climbing, its super efficient. There is a tiny bit of drag when turning the pedals off the bike but it isnt perceptable when riding. Comparing it with my stylus (similar quality build and tires) it pedals substantially better, especially on technical ascents. The rearward wheel path and lack of kickback more than make up for the slight increase in drag.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

i honestly prefer the druid everywhere i ride. That said, Im not the dude who just goons through everything heels down and plowing. When I need/want to giv'er in a straight line it is still enough bike (ive yet to feel a hard bottom), but there is less margin than with the MT. That said, for my riding i prefer the druid as it is substantially more nimble/playful and only marginally less capable. Again, Im also not the target market for the MT. I would however say, based on reviews comparing the hightower to the megatower, that I expect the druid is more capable than the hightower with its 140/150.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


fair odds on a bigger bike announcement?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> fair odds on a bigger bike announcement?


Naw, dealer direct ghost ferns and bulk B+W film stock.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Comparison to a XL Druid with big ass tires.

Less girthy seat tube could be the reason between maybe seeing a bigger gap between it and rear tire.

Slightly slacker HTA.

Hard to see any difference really, besides that the shock looks pretty big and the fork doesn't look any shorter.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Varaxis said:


> View attachment 1337287
> View attachment 1337289
> 
> 
> ...


Man, looks identical. Ha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dude! (Mar 5, 2004)

Varaxis said:


> View attachment 1337287
> View attachment 1337289


I am hoping it is a 27.5. I would be curious what Forbidden could make around 27.5 wheels - an updated Evil Calling with an idler. This would seriously pique my interest!!!


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

jwick said:


> Similar issue here. I'm on a 11spd Shimano chain and 130 miles on the bike to date. Just checked the drivetrain for wear and found similar issues. I didn't feel or hear the same slipping of chain like you but was trying to chase down apparent drivetrain drag. The idler seems to be very sensitive to the amount of torque on the bolt. I found I had to loctite the bolt with minimal torque to reduce drag. I tried various thin shims to space out the caps from the bearing but went back to to stock setup with none. On a side note the roller on the lower chain guide is also very sensitive to over torquing as well. I've got it all pretty smooth for now but the wear on the idler did give me pause. Hoping the SS idler is in the works and would certainly grab one once available. Aside from these issues I'm loving the bike.


Bringing this back up as I experienced some more idler pulley problems on my last two rides. Again I started to have the loose crank/pedal feeling however this time i noticed that my 4 month old V2 pulley had a millimeter or two of side-to-side play.

I cut the ride short and originally thought that the stock bearing blew up and didn't want to damage the mounting shaft or anything else. I swapped the bearing for a brand new Enduro Max I had on hand and the same play existed. I then installed the original idler pulley and torqued to 10nm and the play was gone.

On further inspection it looks like the backside of the V2 pulley has excessive wear on one side causing the play, does anyone else have similar wear or issues? (the same pulley backplate was used on the V1 & V2 pulley so I do not think the wear on that part is causing the issue.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Man, looks identical. Ha
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Think you are right on it being identical.
I think it's just them announcing the new colours.
Hence the black and white..

I hope it's not and that it might be a new rig.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

MqtRider said:


> Anybody know what the two new colors are going to be for 2021 and their ETA?


One of the new colors must be an olive green with cream or very light green lettering. I'm not a big fan of dark green, but it looks stunning.






if you stop the video at 0:44 you can see it clearly.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Iamblichus said:


> One of the new colors must be an olive green with cream or very light green lettering. I'm not a big fan of dark green, but it looks stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yea, youtuber BCPOV has been riding an olive green for a couple months

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Gave it another look. I see some difference around the BB area. Looks like the downtube slopes down more, which allows the shock to be mounted lower. I like that since it improves seat tube insertion for long dropper compatibility. The pivot might be a bit lower too. The seat tube looks to be offset forward some more maybe (eyeing where the line intersects the chainring), but hard to tell if the saddle is any more forward (judging by how close the tip is to being straight over the BB).


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Complete bikes?


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Kmag76 said:


> Complete bikes?


yes complete bikes and new colors are what I'm predicting


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Full bike builds and new colors are live on the website


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Full bike builds and new colors are live on the website
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They don't even have the full build list up though, very few details. It also doesn't outline when bikes will ship.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> They don't even have the full build list up though, very few details. It also doesn't outline when bikes will ship.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Full spec details are on the website. If you are having trouble seeing them do let us know? Or if you have any specific questions?

The first batch of XT builds are currently in the port in Vancouver, so they should arrive in our warehouse any day now. We expect to have them turned around and shipping out next week.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Full spec details are on the website. If you are having trouble seeing them do let us know? Or if you have any specific questions?
> 
> The first batch of XT builds are currently in the port in Vancouver, so they should arrive in our warehouse any day now. We expect to have them turned around and shipping out next week.


I don't see any details on Bars, dropper post, grips, etc. Thanks for the additional info!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

If you scroll down it comes up, though I'm not sure on mobile. Here is the XT build.


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## eric24v (Oct 26, 2008)

US buyers can buy direct from Forbidden's website now? No more going through Fanatik?

Edit: lightning fast response from Forbidden! Apparently that's the case now!


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

eric24v said:


> US buyers can buy direct from Forbidden's website now? No more going through Fanatik?
> 
> Edit: lightning fast response from Forbidden! Apparently that's the case now!


Yes we ship from our Canadian HQ direct to US customers. If you are local to Fanatik you can have your bike shipped there for a professional assembly and full set up using our Pro Setup option at checkout (we will have more IBD partners in the US soon). Of course if you are looking for a custom dream build we will push you to purchase your Forbidden through Fanatik as they are the custom build experts!


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> View attachment 1338431
> 
> 
> If you scroll down it comes up, though I'm not sure on mobile. Here is the XT build.


Thanks, it's showing up for me now. I may have been scrolling too fast.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

Very nice build kits! And not to speak of the drool worthy aubergine color. 

But with all those news, will the stainless steel idler still materialize? I have to admit that the V2 idler largely outlives the V1.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Well, I guess I found the reasoning behind the differences. On smaller sizes, the BB is offset rearward, among other changes. I guess that's what I get for comparing an XL to the promo shot.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

are they selling the frames separately? i live in Australia - and seriously considering one of these. i would be moving across from a yetsb150


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

marcoton21 said:


> Very nice build kits! And not to speak of the drool worthy aubergine color.
> 
> But with all those news, will the stainless steel idler still materialize? I have to admit that the V2 idler largely outlives the V1.


We're currently working on a design for a stainless steel idler. We hit a couple of stumbling blocks with it but it is on the plan. It just might take a while to work through some iterations. Sorry.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

onawave said:


> are they selling the frames separately? i live in Australia - and seriously considering one of these. i would be moving across from a yetsb150


In Australia Druids are only available as frame kits or custom builds through dealers.

DanJas imports https://www.danjasimports.com/ and their network of dealers are your source for all things Forbidden in your part of the world.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi, I am looking at buying the Druid. I am riding a 2020 Specialized Enduro 29 now, looking for a shorter travel bike to go along with the Enduro29.

I have read this helpful thread, and most point to the idler gear and bearings issue even with the Ver 2 gear, and the Sram incompatibility as in chain rubbing the chain guide in the 10T cog.

May I know any follow up on these 2 issues from Forbbiden or any solutions from the owners here?
Thanks.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

revver said:


> Hi, I am looking at buying the Druid. I am riding a 2020 Specialized Enduro 29 now, looking for a shorter travel bike to go along with the Enduro29.
> 
> I have read this helpful thread, and most point to the idler gear and bearings issue even with the Ver 2 gear, and the Sram incompatibility as in chain rubbing the chain guide in the 10T cog.
> 
> ...


Issues seem to be mostly with Shimano, not SRAM, but I'm assuming they're easy to fix considering Forbidden is only kitting their full builds with Shimano

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> On another note, how has the chain rub been in the smallest cog? Did you wear through the protector? Did it wear completely through or did you manage to fix the issue somehow?
> 
> I'm wearing through mine every ride and watching it closely to make sure it doesn't start on the frame.
> 
> Thanks


The chain rub is way less of an issue than you're making it out to be. I've had my bike for over a year and it hasn't worn through and it will never happen. The edges of the chain have worn small grooves but that stops because the rollers will eventually sit on the rubber and it will never wear any further. Stress less and enjoy the ride :thumbsup:


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

I'm still sorely tempted by the bike. I was last year but had concerns over sizing (183cm and whether a Large would be too small), which to some degree remain. Having spent some extended time on another recently released high pivot point trail bike my attention is coming back to the Druid. I've an itch I need to scratch. The new XT full build (which is pretty much what I would have spec'd on a self build anyway) is very tempting at that price point in the UK.

There is also a 2nd hand, hardly used Gloss Moss relatively near by that I'm tempted by.

Pinkbike seem to suggest there's a revised linkage and hardware updates over the original bike. Can someone share with me what these are please?


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

kingofbiscuits said:


> I'm still sorely tempted by the bike. I was last year but had concerns over sizing (183cm and whether a Large would be too small), which to some degree remain. Having spent some extended time on another recently released high pivot point trail bike my attention is coming back to the Druid. I've an itch I need to scratch. The new XT full build (which is pretty much what I would have spec'd on a self build anyway) is very tempting at that price point in the UK.
> 
> There is also a 2nd hand, hardly used Gloss Moss relatively near by that I'm tempted by.
> 
> Pinkbike seem to suggest there's a revised linkage and hardware updates over the original bike. Can someone share with me what these are please?


The original linkage was a 2 piece design that was bolted together and the pivot bolts were titanium. The new one is one piece and has aluminium hardware. The new linkage is a bit lighter but that's the only difference. The removal of ti hardware was to address a creak that a hand full of people had.

I'm 183cm as well and went with a large. I couldn't imagine being on the XL. I'm running a 31mm stem so you could easily go with 50mm if you need the reach.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Thanks for the prompt response ScrubNub, appreciated. That's good to know.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

ScrubNub said:


> The chain rub is way less of an issue than you're making it out to be. I've had my bike for over a year and it hasn't worn through and it will never happen. The edges of the chain have worn small grooves but that stops because the rollers will eventually sit on the rubber and it will never wear any further. Stress less and enjoy the ride :thumbsup:


Thanks, it's all good. I contacted Forbidden and they told me the same thing so no more stress and I'm definitely enjoying the ride!


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## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

Hi, I read through this thread, 2 questions/comments.

1. What size druid would be best for 176cm height and 186cm arm span. I'm close to between sizes. No downhill around here with lifts (New Brunswick Canada) but lots of good trails.
2. Please make the Stainless Idler so if I buy one of these bikes I don't have to make one myself. I am an engineer with a lathe and mill at home and 3D machine design software at work but it would be nice to have a factory offering.

Thanks all.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Hi everyone! I keep reading questions and concerns regarding the design of the chain slap protector and the fact that the chain will rub on it in the 10t sprocket. Hopefully I can give a little insight to how the design ended up how it did and hopefully put to rest any concerns.

We first developed a protector using the same material and thickness as we had designed for traditional bikes in the past, however during testing we found the bike to be too noisy. We found that the proximity of the chain to the stay when in the middle of the cassette, where you generally spend most of your time while riding, was causing more noise than we felt acceptable. You essentially get smaller impacts between the chain and the stay but they happen way more often. This is a problem quite unique to a high idler equipped bike and it caught us a bit by surprise. We experimented with a number of ways to get the bike to be as quiet as we wanted and the solution we settled on was a thicker and softer protector. The trade off with this was that the chain would sit on the protector when in the 10t sprocket. We felt, after consulting a good number of local riders too, that this trade off was acceptable. The reasoning being that it is quite unusual to spend significant time in the 10t sprocket on an average ride. Personally I like my bikes to be as silent as possible so the development of this part became a bit of an obsession and we burned through significant money on tooling and tested countless different materials until we had a design which would keep the bike quiet.

You will see some wear occur in the protector, this is normal, but we are confident that the chain will not wear all of the way through the protector as there is adequate clearance between the chain and the frame in the 10t. We did consider molding a groove in the protector effectively mimicking the wear but then the positioning of the protector became critical and we would not be able to guarantee that perfect positioning. Again, we felt the current design was the best compromise.

Hope that helps! 

Owen


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

Resurgence said:


> Hi, I read through this thread, 2 questions/comments.
> 
> 1. What size druid would be best for 176cm height and 186cm arm span. I'm close to between sizes. No downhill around here with lifts (New Brunswick Canada) but lots of good trails.
> 2. Please make the Stainless Idler so if I buy one of these bikes I don't have to make one myself. I am an engineer with a lathe and mill at home and 3D machine design software at work but it would be nice to have a factory offering.
> ...


1. If your trails are flat out fast, straighter affairs go for a large and the added wheelbase. If they are twisty tech a medium might be your best bet.

2. We are working on it!


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## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> 1. If your trails are flat out fast, straighter affairs go for a large and the added wheelbase. If they are twisty tech a medium might be your best bet.
> 
> 2. We are working on it!


I really appreciate the reply. I've read every review I can find online and I really appreciate the attention to detail, level of technical content available on your site and the product improvement (version 2 linkage) that your company has displayed to date. The ideas are amazing too like the ziggy link.

I skipped the last 18 years of biking due to kids and other interests and a lot has changed since the 90's. Love that you selected Shimano for the builds.

Chris


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## manos-t (Sep 6, 2019)

kingofbiscuits said:


> I'm still sorely tempted by the bike. I was last year but had concerns over sizing (183cm and whether a Large would be too small), which to some degree remain. Having spent some extended time on another recently released high pivot point trail bike my attention is coming back to the Druid. I've an itch I need to scratch. The new XT full build (which is pretty much what I would have spec'd on a self build anyway) is very tempting at that price point in the UK.
> 
> There is also a 2nd hand, hardly used Gloss Moss relatively near by that I'm tempted by.
> 
> Pinkbike seem to suggest there's a revised linkage and hardware updates over the original bike. Can someone share with me what these are please?


I am 1,83 on a Large with 50mm stem and its literally spot-on. I might actually try a 30 mm stem in the near future. So i don't think a Large would be too small, nowhere close in my opinion


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## Snowsed341 (Jun 16, 2015)

I am currently looking into buying a new bike as i sold my SB150 last week. I am concerned with the smaller reach but i think a 50mm stem should remedy the reach in a size large. I'm 6ft even with a 33 inseam. XL with a 32-33mm stem possible? Anyone my size riding an XL how is the climbing position?

I am 210 geared and want to know how stiff the frame is? I loved the sb150 but it felt a little flexy for my liking. Has anyone tried an angleset and is this forbidden bikes approved?

I was also wondering if i order a size Large XT build in the next few days if it would ship to CA USA next week?

I am on hold for the sentinel but will switch to the druid if my bike will land in the next few weeks. The sentinel wait is currently 2 months plus.

I have no bike right now and its killing me.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Hello, I was trying to remove my remove my rear triangle and am having some trouble. Looking at the exploded diagram on forbidden's site, I'm not sure how to remove part 37 on page 9. I removed the Allen however it's still firmly attached. Any ideas?
Thanks, Zach

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/Druid_Exploded_View_V1.1.pdf?10139


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

dhbike8 said:


> Hello, I was trying to remove my remove my rear triangle and am having some trouble. Looking at the exploded diagram on forbidden's site, I'm not sure how to remove part 37 on page 9. I removed the Allen however it's still firmly attached. Any ideas?
> Thanks, Zach
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/Druid_Exploded_View_V1.1.pdf?10139


That part is a cap that covers the main pivot axle nut. It keeps it from backing off. It is friction fit. Therefore, you have to carefully pry it off the nut. I use a tiny knife edge prybar to get in that tiny space without marring the nut. You could also use a plastic putty knife.... Maybe some else can chime in with a magic tool idea. J


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Wow, thanks buddy, that's not so fun. I used small standard screwdriver with a bit of old tube on it to pry up the inside of the cap until, I could carefully pry up from the outside of the cap with a putty knife.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

It would be great if they could thread that cap for a larger bolt so you could simple use, say the upper shock mount bolt to back that cap off.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

When you go to reinstall the cap after you get the nut to the specified torque it should just slide over the nut without forcing it. If it does not just tighten/loosen the nut slightly until it just slides on. It has to be clocked in the right position. J


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hi everyone! I keep reading questions and concerns regarding the design of the chain slap protector and the fact that the chain will rub on it in the 10t sprocket. Hopefully I can give a little insight to how the design ended up how it did and hopefully put to rest any concerns.
> 
> We first developed a protector using the same material and thickness as we had designed for traditional bikes in the past, however during testing we found the bike to be too noisy. We found that the proximity of the chain to the stay when in the middle of the cassette, where you generally spend most of your time while riding, was causing more noise than we felt acceptable. You essentially get smaller impacts between the chain and the stay but they happen way more often. This is a problem quite unique to a high idler equipped bike and it caught us a bit by surprise. We experimented with a number of ways to get the bike to be as quiet as we wanted and the solution we settled on was a thicker and softer protector. The trade off with this was that the chain would sit on the protector when in the 10t sprocket. We felt, after consulting a good number of local riders too, that this trade off was acceptable. The reasoning being that it is quite unusual to spend significant time in the 10t sprocket on an average ride. Personally I like my bikes to be as silent as possible so the development of this part became a bit of an obsession and we burned through significant money on tooling and tested countless different materials until we had a design which would keep the bike quiet.
> 
> ...


Owen, thanks for clarifying this. I also feared that the chain would nag it's way through the protector. Good to hear that it won't.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Hi everyone! I keep reading questions and concerns regarding the design of the chain slap protector and the fact that the chain will rub on it in the 10t sprocket. Hopefully I can give a little insight to how the design ended up how it did and hopefully put to rest any concerns.
> 
> We first developed a protector using the same material and thickness as we had designed for traditional bikes in the past, however during testing we found the bike to be too noisy. We found that the proximity of the chain to the stay when in the middle of the cassette, where you generally spend most of your time while riding, was causing more noise than we felt acceptable. You essentially get smaller impacts between the chain and the stay but they happen way more often. This is a problem quite unique to a high idler equipped bike and it caught us a bit by surprise. We experimented with a number of ways to get the bike to be as quiet as we wanted and the solution we settled on was a thicker and softer protector. The trade off with this was that the chain would sit on the protector when in the 10t sprocket. We felt, after consulting a good number of local riders too, that this trade off was acceptable. The reasoning being that it is quite unusual to spend significant time in the 10t sprocket on an average ride. Personally I like my bikes to be as silent as possible so the development of this part became a bit of an obsession and we burned through significant money on tooling and tested countless different materials until we had a design which would keep the bike quiet.
> 
> ...


This issue is not isolated to Forbidden high pivot bikes, and really isn't that big of deal. I'm always willing to trade a little wear on a chain protector for the speed a HP design offers. Just check it from time to time and keep your chain clean/oiled.

Now, ill go back to patiently awaiting a forbidden long travel rig


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi, 
Just placed an order for the Druid in M size. Glad to hear the issue with Sram Eagle 12spd is all good and the 10T cog rubbing issue is cleared up. Hopefully the new SS idler gear can make it on the new frame in time.
May I know if I can use a DUB BB for this Druid? To adjust the B screw seated for Sram 12spd? Lastly, any recommendations for the dropper length, I ride with a saddle height of 630mm from the BB, dropper extended. Thanks.


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

revver said:


> Hi,
> Just placed an order for the Druid in M size. Glad to hear the issue with Sram Eagle 12spd is all good and the 10T cog rubbing issue is cleared up. Hopefully the new SS idler gear can make it on the new frame in time.
> May I know if I can use a DUB BB for this Druid? To adjust the B screw seated for Sram 12spd? Lastly, any recommendations for the dropper length, I ride with a saddle height of 630mm from the BB, dropper extended. Thanks.


630mm for sure? I'm pretty short at 173 and my Saddle (top) is at 700mm. That exactly fits a 180mm Oneup.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,
Just measured again 635mm, riding with 170mm crank and Oneup flat pedals.

I'm shortie at 165, but I like bigger bikes. I was riding a size small Pole Machine and currently on a S2 Enduro 29.

I will install a 35mm stem with a 750mm bar for the Druid build.


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

Great thread, everyone's ride descriptions have really gotten me interested in this bike. 

As someone who is 5'4 (162cm), the sized-scaled geometry has me sold on the Druid independently of everything else. The chainstays on the small rival a lot of 27.5 bikes! Seems like the Druid would be a great, snappy 29er for us munchkins.

One question I have is about the level of riding skill one needs to take advantage of the HSP design. It seems like all of the reviews out there uniformly praise the bike but say that it does take "getting used to". In contrast, lots of reviews of bikes like the SC Hightower v2 (another bike on my list) talk about how easy it is to get along with. Even some of the posts here talk about the need to brake strategically (like late into turns, no rear brake dragging) to really take advantage of the bike. Is this more of a advanced rider's bike?

I'd classify myself as an advanced intermediate and I actively work on improving my technique. I also recognize that my cornering is still a work in progress and that I'm guilty of comfort braking more than I should. Does this bike demand a higher skill set to be worthwhile? Obviously, I could answer a lot of this with a demo ride but there are no dealers in NorCal.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

BikesDogsBrews said:


> Great thread, everyone's ride descriptions have really gotten me interested in this bike.
> 
> As someone who is 5'4 (162cm), the sized-scaled geometry has me sold on the Druid independently of everything else. The chainstays on the small rival a lot of 27.5 bikes! Seems like the Druid would be a great, snappy 29er for us munchkins.
> 
> ...


The Druid is the most comfortable, best climbing, best steering, best riding (from flow trails to tech chunk) bike that I have ridden. This bike has no learning curve. The only tricky thing for me has been manualling it. Others in this thread above have had no problem. I find it tough-ish at times to get the front end up. That's it. Everything else has been easy and completely intuitive. It felt like an old familiar friend within minutes of my first ride on it.

This bike provides endless fun and inspiration. I feel it will gracefully accomplish almost anything I ask of it. Anything I am not able to successfully do on this bike is a result of my own shortcomings. In response to comments from friends about how much I have upped my game, I have responded by saying that with the Druid, I literally feel like I am cheating; like I have an unfair advantage.

When I am done a ride, all I think about is the next one.

On the other hand, I have tried so many times in the past (including this go-around) to embrace VPP, but no bueno. It's not for me.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

the witchcraft is real


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> the witchcraft is real


It sure is.

Marcus - is it any tougher getting the front end of your SX in the air? I wonder if this is an HSP thing. Or even a thing at all (I appreciate others find no difference with this bike compared to any other).


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

Could the difficulty getting up on the rear wheel be due to rear center growth from the rearward axle path? 

I’ve been wondering what the “effective” chainstay length (and wheelbase) would be for each size at whatever Forbidden recommends for the sag.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

revver said:


> Hi,
> Just measured again 635mm, riding with 170mm crank and Oneup flat pedals.
> 
> I'm shortie at 165, but I like bigger bikes. I was riding a size small Pole Machine and currently on a S2 Enduro 29.
> ...


I am 170 cm tall and have a Bikeyoke Revive 125 on my size M Druid. BB to top of saddle is 675 and and my Revive is pulled out 2cm from fully inserted. You should get dropper post with shortest stack height possible. Possibly Oneup 150 shimmed to 130, but even then it may be just a tad too tall, not sure.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Fizzywater,
Thank you for your input on the measurement. Mai I know what saddle you are having? You riding flat pedals too?

Thanks.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It sure is.
> 
> Marcus - is it any tougher getting the front end of your SX in the air? I wonder if this is an HSP thing. Or even a thing at all (I appreciate others find no difference with this bike compared to any other).


Its different than my other bikes for sure.

Admittedly most all my experience on the HSP has been gravity oriented. I will say that I could finagle the bike enough to manual into primitive drops/jumps without much resistance. It does however take some additional finesse that seems to come a little easier on traditional suspension.

In the end, the Druid seems way more refined while the 37lb SX is point & plow.

**On another high pivot subject. How many of you are running oval rings on your bikes? Does the pedal stroke feel any different than traditional suspension?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Its different than my other bikes for sure.
> 
> Admittedly most all my experience on the HSP has been gravity oriented. I will say that I could finagle the bike enough to manual into primitive drops/jumps without much resistance. It does however take some additional finesse that seems to come a little easier on traditional suspension.
> 
> ...


As for an oval ring on the Druid, I don't dare. After toasting the idler, I am not doing anything the slightest bit controversial with that drivetrain. I do have an RF oval ring on my Honzo - I notice zero difference in pedal stroke. Zero.

As for manualling, I don't want to leave the wrong impression. I can still, for example, pull the front end up on a descent to avoid a sharp, deep v-shaped hole. It just Seems to take a bit more effort.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

revver said:


> Hi Fizzywater,
> Thank you for your input on the measurement. Mai I know what saddle you are having? You riding flat pedals too?
> 
> Thanks.


Hi revver. Saddle is SQlab 611 Ergowave. I think it has more vertical height than the average saddle due to the additional higher platform at the back of the saddle for the sitbones. Using DMR Vault flats and 165mm cranks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> As for an oval ring on the Druid, I don't dare. After toasting the idler, I am not doing anything the slightest bit controversial with that drivetrain. I do have an RF oval ring on my Honzo - I notice zero difference in pedal stroke. Zero.
> 
> As for manualling, I don't want to leave the wrong impression. I can still, for example, pull the front end up on a descent to avoid a sharp, deep v-shaped hole. It just Seems to take a bit more effort.


Think we're on same page RE manualing. It can be done, just differently. Kinda like dancing the tango with a big girl

I've run oval rings for 5-6 years now and have been pretty happy. Bought an oval for the HSP like I would normally do, and it felt completely different. As if the clocking was off, but its installed correctly and is the same 32t oval that I have on my XC rig. From what I gather, the limited chainwrap on the HSP is not playing well with the oval design and throwing the cadence off. Gonna have to switch back to round once coronageddon subsides.

Speaking of idlers, mine was noisy AF in the shale/mud in NWA the last time i rode. Have no doubt it creates far more drag than the larger one offered on the Druid.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Think we're on same page RE manualing. It can be done, just differently. Kinda like dancing the tango with a big girl
> 
> I've run oval rings for 5-6 years now and have been pretty happy. Bought an oval for the HSP like I would normally do, and it felt completely different. As if the clocking was off, but its installed correctly and is the same 32t oval that I have on my XC rig. From what I gather, the limited chainwrap on the HSP is not playing well with the oval design and throwing the cadence off. Gonna have to switch back to round once coronageddon subsides.
> 
> Speaking of idlers, mine was noisy AF in the shale/mud in NWA the last time i rode. Have no doubt it creates far more drag than the larger one offered on the Druid.


I got caught in an hour and a half torrential downpour 2 nights ago, on mud laden trails. I was happy to make it back to my truck and am still concerned I did some major damage to the drivetrain. I worry about it. For me it's been very fragile so far. 2 nights ago it was noisy AF, to the point where I let off the steam and limped my way back to the trail head, for fear of busting something under load.

I guess that's my only other not so positive comment - manualling + seemingly fragile drivetrain. Maybe I am being paranoid but it's still shocking to me how quickly I pooched the bearings in the original idler (although maybe it was a bad run of bearings, or maybe it was my fault as a result of not careful enough bike washings).


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I got caught in an hour and a half torrential downpour 2 nights ago, on mud laden trails. I was happy to make it back to my truck and am still concerned I did some major damage to the drivetrain. I worry about it. For me it's been very fragile so far. 2 nights ago it was noisy AF, to the point where I let off the steam and limped my way back to the trail head, for fear of busting something under load.
> 
> I guess that's my only other not so positive comment - manualling + seemingly fragile drivetrain. Maybe I am being paranoid but it's still shocking to me how quickly I pooched the bearings in the original idler (although maybe it was a bad run of bearings, or maybe it was my fault as a result of not careful enough bike washings).


So you are mostly concerned with this in wet conditions? Or has it been acting up when dry too?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> So you are mostly concerned with this in wet conditions? Or has it been acting up when dry too?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


To be a bit clearer, since replacing the original idler, it hasn't really acted up at all, apart from being noisy 2 nights ago (but any drive train would have been). I am just a little nervous because of what went down with the original idler.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> To be a bit clearer, since replacing the original idler, it hasn't really acted up at all, apart from being noisy 2 nights ago (but any drive train would have been). I am just a little nervous because of what went down with the original idler.


Ah, thanks. Makes sense.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Ah, thanks. Makes sense.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am heading out in an hour. I can't wait. It's always like that with any bike, but with the Druid, I start dreaming about the next ride as soon as the last one ends. I get that this is sounding a little over the top, but it's true. I am trying to be as objective as I can, both good and bad. On the positive side, this is a very exciting, inspiring, beautifully designed piece of industrial art. I love how it looks, but love how it rides a lot more.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

So, a quick comment on the 11-6 vs the DPX2...

Guys - be happy with the DPX2. Resist the urge to think "what if?", only to end up going down a bunch of rabbit holes. 

I like the 11-6 more and more as I get used to it, but I think I need a lighter spring weight. It feels a lot more, shall we say "compliant", than the DPX2. The harder I smash ****, the better it feels, but it's a much more "platform feeling" ride than the DPX2. 

I couldn't get rid of the constant squeak in my DPX2. It almost drove me mad. That, in and of itself, was worth the change. But i do think that with the spring weight Push gave me, the DPX2 felt far more bottomless.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> So you are mostly concerned with this in wet conditions? Or has it been acting up when dry too?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I only ride my Druid in dry conditions and it can be high maintenance (I wouldn't call it ''fragile'') in those conditions as well. I need to do a complete drivetrain clean and relube (taking upper idler pulley and lower roller out) every 3ish rides to keep it running well. Chain is complete clean, degrease, relube every ride. I replaced my idler pulley bearing after 3 months (riding 1-2 times a week) and the lower roller bearing after 4 months.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> I only ride my Druid in dry conditions and it can be high maintenance (I wouldn't call it ''fragile'') in those conditions as well. I need to do a complete drivetrain clean and relube (taking upper idler pulley and lower roller out) every 3ish rides to keep it running well. Chain is complete clean, degrease, relube every ride. I replaced my idler pulley bearing after 3 months (riding 1-2 times a week) and the lower roller bearing after 4 months.


Maybe I am in the minority on this but if I did that, it would really detract from my ride time. I am busy AF. I don't have time to devote this level of maintenance to any bike I own (or any of my daughter's).


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I've just hit 400 miles now on the bike to include 70 miles in sad rainstorms in the last 2 weeks and 1 exciting unexpected hailstorm on galbi, which started right as we jumped into evo and ended at the parking lot. I clean the chain then relube, mist the bike and wipe it down then dry it with an airdryer. I haven't experienced anything out of the ordinary now and it is a hoot. I picked up a recon rack yesterday so I can go on more adventures and be less worried about wobbly tray racks.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I've hit 400 miles now on the bike to include 70 miles in sad rainstorms in the last 2 weeks and 1 exciting unexpected hailstorm on galbi, which started right as we jumped into evo and ended at the parking lot.

I clean the chain then relube, mist the bike and wipe it down then dry it with an airdryer. I haven't experienced anything out of the ordinary now and it is a hoot.

I picked up a recon rack yesterday so I can go on more adventures and be less worried about wobbly tray racks.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Have any of you guys tried running your druids without the lower guide? My HSP has never had one and I have had zero chain drops. Seems to me if you don't need it, why introduce another wearable item that creates more drag. Particularly on a trailbike.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Maybe I am in the minority on this but if I did that, it would really detract from my ride time. I am busy AF. I don't have time to devote this level of maintenance to any bike I own (or any of my daughter's).


True, but I am pretty sensitivity to a noisy/draggy drivetrain and this is a must in my area with the moondust type soil we have this time of year. It is definitely a pain.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

ATXZJ said:


> Have any of you guys tried running your druids without the lower guide? My HSP has never had one and I have had zero chain drops. Seems to me if you don't need it, why introduce another wearable item that creates more drag. Particularly on a trailbike.


Was thinking about this today. I already have the bottom guide set in the lowest position and most of the chain slap is between the cassette and the chain idler.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

All right, time to contribute some feedback after lurking around for a long time on this thread. I have now around 20 rides/50h of riding time under my belt on my medium Druid. I am 170cm, 147 pounds out of the shower, longer torso short legs.

Fox 36 Elite at 150mm (2 volume spacers); 60 PSI
Fox DPX2 (grey 0.4 volume spacer); 145 PSI
Hunt Trail Wide wheels (30mm internal width)
Assegai front, DHR2 rear
Sram GX drivetrain with 165mm RF Aeffect cranks
Shimano Saint Brakes
Bikeyoke Revive 125 dropper
Spank 800 Vibrocore bar cut to 780; 50mm rise
OneUp grips
50mm stem; 2mm spacer between headset and stem
DMR Vault flat pedals

Overall I am super happy how the bike rides. Handling, balance front/rear, front/rear balance when catching air, stability vs. agility is all top notch. . Seated pedaling is very good and composed. Out of saddle mashing is so so (not great, but not bad either). Can't really judge technical climbing, as most of my local riding is up fire roads for an hour or more and then down singletrack goodness.

Descending, this bike is a cornering daemon bar none and definitely faster and more composed going down fast choppy, chunky stuff compared to my YT Jeffsy 27 (which has 160mm Pike with Smashpot coil up front and custom valved RS Deluxe 150mm in the rear). That said, it's definitely all more taught/firm and the travel does not feel as deep and plush as my Jeffsy, especially towards the end of travel. The Jeffsy has very high progressivity, which I like and which I feel the Druid is lacking somewhat. Even with the grey 0.4 volume spacer I wish my Druid had more progressivity. I am still bottoming out several times per each ride, it's not a harsh bottom out. Nevertheless, I prefer to have always a bit of travel in reserve and to hit full bottom only occasionally. I may still have to experiment a bit more with shock pressures and other volume spacers, not sure (started out with no spacers and 150-160 PSI until I ended up at grey spacer with 145 PSI) . Midstroke support feels very good, even though the Druid seems to use the first 70% of its shock stroke pretty generously even on smaller compressions...strange, but it works really well on the Druid and I never feel like I am pushing into mushy suspension.

Overall, I am very stoked with this bike. That said, I am going to move the Smashpot from my Jeffsy's Pike to the Fox 36 on my Druid this weekend, it's just so much better. My 2018 Pike with it's somewhat not so great damper and Smashpot runs circles around my 2019 Fox 36 in all aspects...can't think of a single thing I like better on the Fox other than theoretically better damper and damper adjustability, but right now I have to run the Fox compression dials fully open anyway to make it work for me. It's not like the Fox 36 is bad, but I think once you go Smashpot, there is no coming back, it's really that good.

The only thing that pisses me off royally and constantly is the Sram GX drivetrain. I keep fiddling around with the B-gap adjustment screw, but cannot find a good setup. Shifting up from smaller to the larger cogs works Ok, but shifting down from larger to smaller cogs is really slow and inconsistent and then really bad on the 4-5 smallest cogs. Going to take it to my lbs in next few days to find out, if I am missing something or what.

What else, poppieness is pretty good and much better than I expected (after reading numerous reviews on the interwebs), albeit not as good as my Jeffsy 27. That thing wants to pop and jump off anything as soon as you just even think about it. So far, the idler pulley seems to be holding up OK and not giving me any issues. I pulled it off today and added grease to both sides of the bearing. All in all, I think Forbidden have developed a very well balanced trail/AM bike with superb handling and absolutely awesome cornering & descending chops. I just wish there was a bit more plushness, though adding the Smashpot may help in that regard...we shall see. If there was 140 or 150 version of the Druid, I would be all over it in a heartbeat.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Deleated


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So, a quick comment on the 11-6 vs the DPX2...
> 
> Guys - be happy with the DPX2. Resist the urge to think "what if?", only to end up going down a bunch of rabbit holes.
> 
> ...


I've gone down a similar rabbit hole with my Offering last year. The 11-6 was really good in a lot situations, but in the end for overall riding i preferred the poppiness of the DPX2.

Regarding the squeaky DPX2, pull the can off, and lube the seals and glide ring with slickoleum. Mine was like that as well, and this did the trick!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I've gone down a similar rabbit hole with my Offering last year. The 11-6 was really good in a lot situations, but in the end for overall riding i preferred the poppiness of the DPX2.
> 
> Regarding the squeaky DPX2, pull the can off, and lube the seals and glide ring with slickoleum. Mine was like that as well, and this did the trick!


Thanks for the suggestions.

If I may ask, were you able to access the 11-6's rebound on the Druid?

Also, please pardon my ignorance, but any button fiddling suggestions to try to soften things up a bit short of swapping out coils?

I'm 185 out of the shower (sorry for the visual) and they gave me a 450 lb/in spring.

Here are my stock settings:










I usually just leave it in down mode. The climb mode is compliant AF. Too stiff for my liking. I don't do fire roads. Ever.

Thanks.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> If I may ask, were you able to access the 11-6's rebound on the Druid?
> 
> ...


It was my Evil Offering that i had installed the 11-6 on, I managed to get it the way I liked, but in the end I think i preferred the DPX2. 
I have been thinking of trying an EXT Storia on my Druid, (im also able to use the shock on my Levo SL) So i would get a 2 for 1 deal. 
But I dont know if i would just be just going down another rabbit hole.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Has anyone on here tried an EXT Storia on their Druid? 
If so, what are your thoughts?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

_HENDO_ said:


> Was thinking about this today. I already have the bottom guide set in the lowest position and most of the chain slap is between the cassette and the chain idler.


I'd give it a try. The SX and Highlander dont use them.


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## donkey88 (Sep 20, 2005)

Got a new XT Druid. Curious what others have done to stop rock crunches between the swing arm and the seat tube. Moto foam? Custom fender?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

donkey88 said:


> Got a new XT Druid. Curious what others have done to stop rock crunches between the swing arm and the seat tube. Moto foam? Custom fender?


Congrats! I have seen moto foam used (I intend to get my local dealer to throw some in the crevice when I bring my bike in to get the V2 link installed, once it arrives).


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

donkey88 said:


> Got a new XT Druid. Curious what others have done to stop rock crunches between the swing arm and the seat tube. Moto foam? Custom fender?


You got yours already? I ordered hour after they were available. Mine hasn't even shipped!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Has anyone on here tried an EXT Storia on their Druid?
> If so, what are your thoughts?


Curious also. Push not getting rave reviews

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, may I know what size volume spacer come stock on the Druid Fox DPX2 shock? Thanks.


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## donkey88 (Sep 20, 2005)

I’m on Van Island so shipping was real fast.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

revver said:


> Hi all, may I know what size volume spacer come stock on the Druid Fox DPX2 shock? Thanks.


Per Forbidden the purple 0.2 spacer comes stock, but you may want to open the shock and check. My Druid came without a volume spacer in the shock.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Admission/apology time.

So...

Embarrassingly it was only tonight that I did some button fiddling with my 11-6. As it turns out, the LSC and HSC for both circuits were almost closed. It was nowhere close to what the settings were supposed to be per the card I posted above. 

Wow. Dumb mistake. 

Things were a LOT better tonight both climbing and descending after I opened both the LSC and HSC up a crapload for both circuits. 

Sorry guys to have led you astray. Pretty happy to have discovered a ton of capability I didn’t know existed with the 11-6.

PS - those little buttons are really tough on the fingers. Also, there is NOT 15 and 20 clicks for HSC and LSC as advertised. More like 25 and 30 on mine. Lots of adjustability. I am pretty stoked to dial in both circuits now.


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Does anybody have enough time on the Ziggy Mullet link to offer an impression/comparison?


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Setting up my brand spanking new XT Druid today! Thank you mtnbkrmike for this super helpful post!


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

ATXZJ said:


> I'd give it a try. The SX and Highlander dont use them.


I tried running without the lower guide yesterday - shifting felt smoother and way less noise - felt a tad bit smoother pedalling but can't really say for sure. However the chain slaps against the bash guard constantly so I'll try removing that next and report back.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Iamblichus said:


> Setting up my brand spanking new XT Druid today! Thank you mtnbkrmike for this super helpful post!


I sense this is clothed with sarcasm. I have had some pretty lame posts of late. Apologies to all. COVID has thrown me for a loop. I will try to get my **** together.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

not at all. it's new bike day for me. ill be riding my local trails later today with my shock pump. I have your set up summary post on my phone already.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

northerngnar said:


> Does anybody have enough time on the Ziggy Mullet link to offer an impression/comparison?


I've had some time on the Ziggy now. The smaller wheel does what one would expect:

1. Quicker/Sharper handling
2. Better in steep terrain (No Butt Buzz)

I think the best way to look at the Ziggy would be to consider it as a tuning device. Not unlike a flip chip. Something you could tune to the terrain you are riding. I am in the PNW so there is a lot of slow technical riding where the sharper handling/turning is noticable. Also, those with shorter inseams who would be more subject to 29er Butt Buzz would also see a big benefit in steeper terrian. Forbidden has done a nice job of maintaining the geometry of the bike with the Ziggy. I didn't notice anything funky when switching links. Cheers J


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

Are significant trade offs?
I’m 5’4 and have no love for the 29er butt massage. Some technique changes minimize it but the threat is always there.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Fizzywater, thanks for the information. I will remove the DPX2 shock for a check then.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> not at all. it's new bike day for me. ill be riding my local trails later today with my shock pump. I have your set up summary post on my phone already.


Pictures! Was seconds away from getting one of those xt builds, but they sold out of mediums. How does that brown look in real life, I wasn't too sure of it. Also would love to hear your review of the ride.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Pictures! Was seconds away from getting one of those xt builds, but they sold out of mediums. How does that brown look in real life, I wasn't too sure of it. Also would love to hear your review of the ride.


They still have them at Forbidden's site. Hurry!

I almost missed out on mine. I ended up with the last large matte carbon that was headed to Dustin Adams at We Are One. He agreed to give me his and he took the gloss moss instead. True story.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

BikesDogsBrews said:


> Are significant trade offs?
> I'm 5'4 and have no love for the 29er butt massage. Some technique changes minimize it but the threat is always there.


The traction going from 29 to 27.5 is probably the most noticeable trade-off. This can be helped with tire choice. I went from an aluminum 29" wheel to a carbon 27.5 and it was much stiffer. i could get the tire on the aluminum rear rim to buzz my lower chainguide on the 29".


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> They still have them at Forbidden's site. Hurry!
> 
> I almost missed out on mine. I ended up with the last large matte carbon that was headed to Dustin Adams at We Are One. He agreed to give me his and he took the gloss moss instead. True story.


Oh man thanks, just ordered. They were sold out so either they got more in or some people cancelled. Hopefully it gets here before end of the month. Heading to fernie for a few days.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> Oh man thanks, just ordered. They were sold out so either they got more in or some people cancelled. Hopefully it gets here before end of the month. Heading to fernie for a few days.


Hold the excitement, just got an email confirming it was a glitch and there are no bikes.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

YogiKudo said:


> i could get the tire on the aluminum rear rim to buzz my lower chainguide on the 29".


yikes. what's the tires clearance like at a standstill? I've been considering a Druid and would be coming off of a Yeti SB150 but my biggest complaint about the 150 is the flexibility of the back end in turns.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

The flex, unlike Yeti, was in the wheel. J


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

how do u guys think the soon to be announced enduro version will handle? if the trail bike is kicking goals would a bigger all round version be too much?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> how do u guys think the soon to be announced enduro version will handle? if the trail bike is kicking goals would a bigger all round version be too much?


I havnt ridden the druid yet, but for referrance I currently have a 180/175 travel canyon torque. Which if you use bike parks alot is amazing or the odd big climb. But it's not made for big days in the saddle. Now in saying that ild expect a enduro druid to be pretty nice when pedalling and have a bit of extra cush for descent. 
Someone previously stated 180/160 travel was Forbidden's next bike. To me that's getting back to freeride territory.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> how do u guys think the soon to be announced enduro version will handle? if the trail bike is kicking goals would a bigger all round version be too much?


I think this largely depends on the particular circumstances. Terrain. Age/injuries (some need big cush to help them make it through a ride). And of course, personal preferences (we have seen plenty of multi page threads where people debate the point at which a bike becomes oversprung).

I had a 2015 Range designed by Owen Pemberton. HUGE AS with no idler. I think I kinda know what's in store, or at least what Owen's idea is as to how this new bike should ride.

I'm good with the Druid but may not be able to resist the new bike. Okay. Let's be realistic. I will likely buy the new one too. I just hope the colours are ok. I am not a fan of the new ones. Much prefer my matte carbon frame. In my opinion, colour wise, Owen nailed it right out of the chute.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Okay. Let's be realistic. I will likely buy the new one too.


Most factual statement on MTBR

I'd definitely let go of the 27.5 SX frame for a long travel 29 HSP from forbidden. Nothing but a set of hoops, spokes and some lower legs and I'm G2G.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

NBD...!!!!! I went all out with a full custom, dream bike build. The only sacrifice being purchasing the frame used a few weeks prior to Forbidden launching the new colors.


















































Build List:

Frame:ForbiddenDruid 2019

Fork: Fox2021 Float 36 Factory GRIP2 EVOL 150mm 44mm offset

Rear Suspension:Fox2020 Fox FLOAT X2 Factory

Bars:RenthalRenthal Fatbar Carbon 35 Riser / 10mm rise

Stem:RenthalApex Stem 35mm Stem / 40mm Length

Grips:ErgonGA2 FAT - Black

Brakes: HopeTech E4 - Black

Brake Rotors:Hope180mm / 200mm - Black

Groupset:SRAMSRAM XX1 AXS Eagle Groupset: 170mm Boost 30t DUB Crank, Trigger Shifter, Rear Derailleur, 12 Speed 10-50t Cassette and Chain, Gold

Bottom Bracket:SramDub Bottom Bracket English BSA Thread 73mm

Wheels: Crank Brothers"Synthesis Carbon Enduro 11 Wheelset 29"" Boost • Industry 9 Hydra • SRAM XD"

Dropper Post:BikeYoke"Divine185mm31.6mm484mmTriggyblack"

Saddle:ErgonSM Pro Stealth

Pedals:Crank BorthersMallet E - Black

Front Tire:Maxxis"DHF 29"" EXO/TR/WT2.5""3C MaxxTerrafolding60tpiblack

Rear Tire:Maxxis"DHR II 29"" EXO/TR/WT2.4""dualfolding60tpiblack"

Wheel Valves:Muc-Off Tubeless Valve KitGold

Just picked it up today. Will be getting in some rides over the next week and will update with thoughts.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> NBD...!!!!! I went all out with a full custom, dream bike build. The only sacrifice being purchasing the frame used a few weeks prior to Forbidden launching the new colors.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Man you didn't hold back on anything. That's sick.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Man you didn't hold back on anything. That's sick.


Agreed. Nicely done.

Word of advice - take a **** ton of pics now while the chain is still gold


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

After the PB review (on Assagais) how does the Druid really pedal, compared to something common please?
Thx.

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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> I havnt ridden the druid yet, but for referrance I currently have a 180/175 travel canyon torque. Which if you use bike parks alot is amazing or the odd big climb. But it's not made for big days in the saddle. Now in saying that ild expect a enduro druid to be pretty nice when pedalling and have a bit of extra cush for descent.
> Someone previously stated 180/160 travel was Forbidden's next bike. To me that's getting back to freeride territory.


I have it under pretty good authority the travel is 170 / 154


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Suns_PSD said:


> After the PB review (on Assagais) how does the Druid really pedal, compared to something common please?
> Thx.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


I want to answer this but I am not entirely sure what the question is. Nor am I familiar with the referenced PB article.

As a general comment, it's a great climber. Probably the best climbing bike I have owned. I am much more shocked by its climbing ability than its downhill prowess. Yeah, it rips on the downs. But I expected that coming in. Sometimes I feel like that bike is motorized on the climbs.

I should add that I am rockin a 2.5/2.4 DHF/DHR2 combo so I didn't go light on the rubber.


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

Just a quick fyi- Forbidden’s customer service seems awesome. 
I peppered them with a bunch of geo questions, namely what the rear center length would be once the bike was sagged. The rep I was in touch with didn’t know off hand, but got Owen Pemberton on it to figure it out.
That interaction certainly helped me make up my mind to get one when they are back in stock. 

For those that care, the rear center for a size small would be ~428mm at the recommended sag (compared to 414 un-sagged).


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I want to answer this but I am not entirely sure what the question is. Nor am I familiar with the referenced PB article.
> 
> As a general comment, it's a great climber. Probably the best climbing bike I have owned. I am much more shocked by its climbing ability than its downhill prowess. Yeah, it rips on the downs. But I expected that coming in. Sometimes I feel like that bike is motorized on the climbs.
> 
> I should add that I am rockin a 2.5/2.4 DHF/DHR2 combo so I didn't go light on the rubber.


I think he is trying to get his head around a slow rolling tyre. but if u r worried about that don't go the assegais?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> I think he is trying to get his head around a slow rolling tyre. but if u r worried about that don't go the assegais?


Nor Minions. But is this about the tires, the bike, or both?


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## marcoton21 (Mar 20, 2010)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> 1. If your trails are flat out fast, straighter affairs go for a large and the added wheelbase. If they are twisty tech a medium might be your best bet.
> 
> 2. We are working on it!


Owen: Just something that came to my mind: we all have this wonderful space under the downtube. But to access it, a 4mm allen key is needed. So, why don't you make the a slightly different rubber protector that can be slotted in from the back and fixed with a twist lock (like those that have a slit for a coin to twist) in the front. Like that, it could be opened and closed with ease and make stuff super acessible.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

New Druid XT owner. Couple question after first ride.

1. Loud rattling near headtube. Cables?

2. Very twitchy steering. Headset was very tight. Loosening help. First bike with 44mm offset. Maybe the offset?

3. I'm 215lbs started with body weight psi in dpx2. Was about 25% sag. Rear was very stiff hardtail like. 180psi was 35% felt better but still harsh. Never ran a dpx2 with this low of pressure. Normal? 

4. 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 didn't feel good. Needs to break in?

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> New Druid XT owner. Couple question after first ride.
> 
> 1. Loud rattling near headtube. Cables?
> 
> ...


First I've all I need photos and your opinion on the brown.

From what I've read the rear shock basically needs the compression opened wide up and add a few clicks to get the ride the way you like it. Make rebound as fast as you can handle.
For the fork, didn't feal Good? Too harsh? Be worth checking air tokens and what sag you running. Same as shock open it right up and add compression as needed.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> First I've all I need photos and your opinion on the brown.
> 
> From what I've read the rear shock basically needs the compression opened wide up and add a few clicks to get the ride the way you like it. Make rebound as fast as you can handle.
> For the fork, didn't feal Good? Too harsh? Be worth checking air tokens and what sag you running. Same as shock open it right up and add compression as needed.


The brown is awesome in person. Wanted the purple but totally happy with Mr Brownstone









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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> The brown is awesome in person. Wanted the purple but totally happy with Mr Brownstone
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks sweet, 2asnt sure about it so held off then when I decided too go for it, they were sold out.

For your dpx2, is there any noticeable differance between lockout and open. I have heard of a few people getting dodgy ones over the years. Kinda sounds like your is in the climb position? 
What are your fork settings?


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

jpec29 said:


> The brown is awesome in person. Wanted the purple but totally happy with Mr Brownstone
> 
> 
> 
> ...


that looks like the parking area at Cold Creek


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

smudge said:


> that looks like the parking area at Cold Creek


Yes sir!

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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Looks sweet, 2asnt sure about it so held off then when I decided too go for it, they were sold out.
> 
> For your dpx2, is there any noticeable differance between lockout and open. I have heard of a few people getting dodgy ones over the years. Kinda sounds like your is in the climb position?
> What are your fork settings?


Yes feels the same to me in all 3 positions. Have a dpx2 on other bike and drastic difference between settings

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Yes feels the same to me in all 3 positions. Have a dpx2 on other bike and drastic difference between settings
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yea should Be a pretty obvious differance. Next you can see if there's a differance between max compression and wide open compression but ild say your damper is not playing the game. Ild get ahold of forbidden or your local forbidden dealer. Could be a simple shock service to sort issue or could be a complete replacement.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

marcoton21 said:


> Owen: Just something that came to my mind: we all have this wonderful space under the downtube. But to access it, a 4mm allen key is needed. So, why don't you make the a slightly different rubber protector that can be slotted in from the back and fixed with a twist lock (like those that have a slit for a coin to twist) in the front. Like that, it could be opened and closed with ease and make stuff super acessible.





jpec29 said:


> New Druid XT owner. Couple question after first ride.
> 
> 1. Loud rattling near headtube. Cables?
> 
> ...


I use a Zee bottle cage with attached mini tool so I can ride packless and still have access to the downtube cavity, where I keep a tube, levers and few other things. I would not want to be accessing that very often, for fear of stripping the tiny screws.

Related to this, I had a strange noise going on at the end of a particularly aggressive ride. I actually thought I broke a chain stay or something. As with most noises, I couldn't isolate it very well. I brought the bike to the local dealer to make sure it was safe to ride. They couldn't figure it out. The next ride I had a revelation - my levers had come loose in the cavity.

As for the 36 Grip2, you may wish to consider a Luftkappe. Super inexpensive. Did the trick for me.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I use a Zee bottle cage with attached mini tool so I can ride packless and still have access to the downtube cavity, where I keep a tube, levers and few other things. I would not want to be accessing that very often, for fear of stripping the tiny screws.
> 
> Related to this, I had a strange noise going on at the end of a particularly aggressive ride. I actually thought I broke a chain stay or something. As with most noises, I couldn't isolate it very well. I brought the bike to the local dealer to make sure it was safe to ride. They couldn't figure it out. The next ride I had a revelation - my levers had come loose in the cavity.
> 
> As for the 36 Grip2, you may wish to consider a Luftkappe. Super inexpensive. Did the trick for me.


My plab for that storage would just be tube and tire levers, c02 etc. Hoping to get a little bag to put them in to reduce and damage to carbon etc. 
The new fox fork has like 17% larger negative air chamber so should feal pretty plush from the get go. I also run a luftkappe in my rc2 fox 36. And will defenatly be running it In the new fork too. #gamechanger

On a side note has anyone tried the marzocchi cr coil shock. It sounds like you don't really need a climb switch on one of these things?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

jpec29 said:


> New Druid XT owner. Couple question after first ride.
> 
> 1. Loud rattling near headtube. Cables?
> 
> ...


1. Mine had a rattle as well, turned out its from the storage tube in my oneup too. the tire plug was rattling around in there.

3. I'm 207 plus riding gear, And i settled on 201 with a couple clicks from open on compression and rebound with the DPX2, It seems about perfect.

4. 2021 Fox 36 is probably the plushest fork I have owned to date. As noted from another member, you should prob check your settings, and air pressure recommendation is different than past models. (this fork should have you saying, "holy crap does this feel good")


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

jpec29 said:


> New Druid XT owner. Couple question after first ride.
> 
> 1. Loud rattling near headtube. Cables?
> 
> ...


1. Could be cables, but maybe take a look at the whole front end if you already noted the headset was tight. Could be an assembly issue.
2. If you came off a bike with a 51mm offset fork, the 44 will feel a little twitchy.
3. That's a bit odd. So are the issues with the switch on the DPX2. I'd take it back to wherever you got it and have it checked out.
4. Fox 36 forks always feel quite firm to me, so I usually remove one of the volume spacers to make it more plush. The Vorsprung Luftkappe is an excellent product, and will also help make the fork feel more forgiving.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Does anybody have a viable solution for preventing rocks and pebbles from being lodged between the swingarm and the seattube. I have had this happen 3 times so far, making loud crunchy noises and I need to flip the bike over to get the rock out. I have a block of moto foam there but the rocks seem to get around it.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi all, I just picked one of these up and am excited to give it a try! Wondering if there is a consensus (if there can be on anything in the MTB world) on what good cockpit setup is. I'm 5'8" and coming off a medium Evil Offering that has 15mm more reach than the Medium Druid. Was thinking a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bars but wanted to get opinions. I live and ride in the PNW.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Update after second ride. Removed tubes, 54t rachets and swapped to a carbon bar from other bike. 33.16lbs XL XT build. 

1. Rattle is dropper cable flopping around in frame, very loud and annoying. Next fix

2. Bar swap and loosening headset help, think I'm just use to 51mm offset on fork.

3. Ended up running way less than recommended pressure on fork and shock. I'm 210lb in riding gear. Ended up with 170psi in shock and 68psi in fork. 

4. Felt better with lower pressure


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

jpec29 said:


> Update after second ride. Removed tubes, 54t rachets and swapped to a carbon bar from other bike. 33.16lbs XL XT build.
> 
> 1. Rattle is dropper cable flopping around in frame, very loud and annoying. Next fix
> 
> ...


2nd ride









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## MantanaB6 (Oct 19, 2019)

Deleted


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## MantanaB6 (Oct 19, 2019)

krylon1892 said:


> Hi all, I just picked one of these up and am excited to give it a try! Wondering if there is a consensus (if there can be on anything in the MTB world) on what good cockpit setup is. I'm 5'8" and coming off a medium Evil Offering that has 15mm more reach than the Medium Druid. Was thinking a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bars but wanted to get opinions. I live and ride in the PNW.


I'm interested in hearing you thoughts on the switch. My Offering was just stolen and trying to decide between getting another or trying a Druid. I'm 5'9" and rode a medium Offering with 35mm stem, 20mm rise bars (and 160 Lyrik). Felt great so was thinking medium Druid with 50mm stem.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

MantanaB6 said:


> I'm interested in hearing you thoughts on the switch. My Offering was just stolen and trying to decide between getting another or trying a Druid. I'm 5'9" and rode a medium Offering with 35mm stem, 20mm rise bars (and 160 Lyrik). Felt great so was thinking medium Druid with 50mm stem.


Not that this will really help but I'm 6'0" on a size large, 40mm stem, 20mm rise bars and the bike fits perfect.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

senorbanana said:


> Does anybody have a viable solution for preventing rocks and pebbles from being lodged between the swingarm and the seattube. I have had this happen 3 times so far, making loud crunchy noises and I need to flip the bike over to get the rock out. I have a block of moto foam there but the rocks seem to get around it.


Most guys are running moto foam. I'm going to add some tonight or tomorrow. I will post some pics after I do. In the meantime...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

MantanaB6 said:


> I'm interested in hearing you thoughts on the switch. My Offering was just stolen and trying to decide between getting another or trying a Druid. I'm 5'9" and rode a medium Offering with 35mm stem, 20mm rise bars (and 160 Lyrik). Felt great so was thinking medium Druid with 50mm stem.


I'd go large, but I'm long and lanky and I like big frames, I cannot lie...

I'm 5'10". 34" inseam and 35" sleeve for dress shirts. When I got my bike back after suspension surgery, after riding my Kona Unit through the winter, I could not believe how small my Druid felt. I thought my local dealer had played a trick on me and gave me a medium back.

All good now though. Just had to get used to it after my very LARGE large Unit.

I'm running a 50mm Turbine stem and an uncut 800mm 20mm rise Next R bar. I have been toying with trying a 35mm rise bar but the cornering on this as is, is insane. I don't want to mess with the recipe.


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## MantanaB6 (Oct 19, 2019)

It's a tough call. I think if I was hitting up bike parks on a regular basis I may go large, but leaning medium since I'm generally riding tighter PNW chunk. I didn't feel like I wanted a longer bike than the Offering, unfortunately the sizing is right in between.

If anyone in the Portland area has one (or MT as I'll be there for the next 1.5 weeks), I'd love to meet up to check out the sizing! Willing to provide a 6-pack for your troubles...


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

MantanaB6 said:


> It's a tough call. I think if I was hitting up bike parks on a regular basis I may go large, but leaning medium since I'm generally riding tighter PNW chunk. I didn't feel like I wanted a longer bike than the Offering, unfortunately the sizing is right in between.
> 
> If anyone in the Portland area has one (or MT as I'll be there for the next 1.5 weeks), I'd love to meet up to check out the sizing! Willing to provide a 6-pack for your troubles...


I'm 5'7" and I test rode a size medium yesterday. If is about perfict for me. But I could size up I think with a shorter stem which would suit the longer straight trails but the size Medium for Me feals very flickable and agile for the tighter stuff.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,
Any pics on exactly where the trapped rocks are grinding the frame? Thanks.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi,
> Any pics on exactly where the trapped rocks are grinding the frame? Thanks.


Right behind the seat tube in the chain stay yoke.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

krylon1892 said:


> Hi all, I just picked one of these up and am excited to give it a try! Wondering if there is a consensus (if there can be on anything in the MTB world) on what good cockpit setup is. I'm 5'8" and coming off a medium Evil Offering that has 15mm more reach than the Medium Druid. Was thinking a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bars but wanted to get opinions. I live and ride in the PNW.


Sounds like we are about the same size. I tried like 20 different combos and stem/bars lengths. Personally, I think 50mm stem is too long. 35/40mm lengths and 25-35mm risers seemed to feel best...I'm currently running after maybe 100 adjustments with spacers, etc. Nukeproof 35mm stem w/ their 25mm risers at a bar width of 760mm w/ 17.5mm spacers under the stem.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Right behind the seat tube in the chain stay yoke.
> 
> View attachment 1343647


Hi mtnbikermike, thanks for the help!


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

MantanaB6 said:


> I'm interested in hearing you thoughts on the switch. My Offering was just stolen and trying to decide between getting another or trying a Druid. I'm 5'9" and rode a medium Offering with 35mm stem, 20mm rise bars (and 160 Lyrik). Felt great so was thinking medium Druid with 50mm stem.


Dang! Thats horrible news! I feel for you. Sounds like we had a pretty similar setup with me having an angleset. And it was a big bike in that configuration. Went with the medium to lessen the wheelbase and to see if the steering changed with the 50mm stem. My Offering frame is available and I'd let it go to you for a few hundred below going rate because of the theft if you want to stick with it. PM me if interested.



Pmrmusic26 said:


> Sounds like we are about the same size. I tried like 20 different combos and stem/bars lengths. Personally, I think 50mm stem is too long. 35/40mm lengths and 25-35mm risers seemed to feel best...I'm currently running after maybe 100 adjustments with spacers, etc. Nukeproof 35mm stem w/ their 25mm risers at a bar width of 760mm w/ 17.5mm spacers under the stem.


Cool to hear! You have definitely done way more research than I have. What didn't you like about the 50mm stem? I was thinking of it to slow the steering and keep the same effective reach as my last bike. I might just start by switching my 35mm stem 20mm risers at 800 over to simulate your setup. Fork at 150?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kind of a long shot, but anyone here try Rev Grips? $95 CDN seems like a lot for grips but I have to admit, my hands were pretty sore during last night’s ride. I brought my bike in today to get the V2 link switch done and some moto foam installed, and spotted them on the shelf. I pick my bike up tomorrow. Thinking about it...


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Kind of a long shot, but anyone here try Rev Grips? $95 CDN seems like a lot for grips but I have to admit, my hands were pretty sore during last night's ride. I brought my bike in today to get the V2 link switch done and some moto foam installed, and spotted them on the shelf. I pick my bike up tomorrow. Thinking about it...


I haven't used the Rev grips but have read/watched some good reviews. It sounds like they make a substantial difference.

How are you "installing" the moto foam? I will have mine this week but thought you just cut it to size and wedge it in.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I haven't used the Rev grips but have read/watched some good reviews. It sounds like they make a substantial difference.
> 
> How are you "installing" the moto foam? I will have mine this week but thought you just cut it to size and wedge it in.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't have any foam. They said they would throw some in for free. I took them up on it. I'm sure it's simple AF. Just like you described. I'm happy to ask them if there are any tricks if you wish. I will be back there tomorrow.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I don't have any foam. They said they would throw some in for free. I took them up on it. I'm sure it's simple AF.


Right on, thanks. I'd appreciate if you'd let me know if the shop does anything special for the install. I def. don't want to crack my frame in such an avoidable way.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Right on, thanks. I'd appreciate if you'd let me know if the shop does anything special for the install. I def. don't want to crack my frame in such an avoidable way.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I will ask them for any tips and tricks, and will post some pics tomorrow if you want to wait. I have seen their bikes done. The addition of the foam does NOT enhance the appearance. It looks pretty weekend warrior-ish.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I will ask them for any tips and tricks, and will post some pics tomorrow if you want to wait. I have seen their bikes done. The addition of the foam does NOT enhance the appearance. It looks pretty weekend warrior-ish.


Thanks, I won't be able to install until Friday anyways.

Yea, I've seen pics too and agree. Bought my frame used though so no warranty and a frame is better than no frame. I rode in SoCal and all we have are small rocks that would be a perfect fit for that space.

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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Kind of a long shot, but anyone here try Rev Grips? $95 CDN seems like a lot for grips but I have to admit, my hands were pretty sore during last night's ride. I brought my bike in today to get the V2 link switch done and some moto foam installed, and spotted them on the shelf. I pick my bike up tomorrow. Thinking about it...


Yep.

Got a set in the widest diameter for the hardtail and a sensible width for the Druid.

They do make a noticeable difference if you are racing/riding aggressive terrain or if you suffer with arm pump. I can push on in the rougher terrain without feeling the need to brake when racing through braking bumps or rough rooty sections.

I bought the cheaper series (they are in a standard black colour anyway) I just plan to replace the rubber grip when ever it wears out.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Thanks, I won't be able to install until Friday anyways.
> 
> Yea, I've seen pics too and agree. Bought my frame used though so no warranty and a frame is better than no frame. I rode in SoCal and all we have are small rocks that would be a perfect fit for that space.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got my bike back. No tricks. Just cut and place.


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## Scott O (Aug 5, 2004)

That bike is immaculate! How do you keep that chain so clean, mtnbkermike?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Got my bike back. No tricks. Just cut and place.
> 
> View attachment 1344103
> 
> ...


Thanks! Looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Scott O said:


> That bike is immaculate! How do you keep that chain so clean, mtnbkermike?


My drivetrain is dirty AF. It's actually a gold chain :eekster:

The ring is brand new today though. I only discovered today that I have been riding a 32 tooth ring all this time. I would have bet anyone it was a 30 tooth. Some of those sustained climbs might be a little less heinous now.

I have been faithfully using ProLink lube for the past 15+ years. I know a lot of guys I respect on here don't particularly like it, but my drivetrains outlast everyone else's I know by at least 2 seasons, and I ride 5x more than they do. Apply and wipe each ride. It cleans and lubes. I have tried other lube that gets a lot of love on here, but it has left my drivetrain a gunky mess. I could not get it off fast enough.

Thanks Scott O. I was relieved I wasn't a victim of your fabled but feared wit. Lol. Or was I...?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Thanks! Looks great
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you. And you're more than welcome. Let us know if yours looks any different once you get it done.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Got my bike back. No tricks. Just cut and place.
> 
> View attachment 1344103
> 
> ...


Hi,
I do not have my Druid yet, coming end July. May I know the spacing or distance between the 2 screws that are holding the rear mud guard? Thanks.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi,
> I do not have my Druid yet, coming end July. May I know the spacing or distance between the 2 screws that are holding the rear mud guard? Thanks.


I roughly measure about 2 and 3/8ths inches.









Do you need a more accurate measurement?

And CONGRATS in advance!


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I roughly measure about 2 and 3/8ths inches.
> 
> View attachment 1344135
> 
> ...


Thanks, looking forward to ride the High Pivot Druid.

So it's around 60.5mm. I was looking at the RRP direct mount mud guard and maybe the 2021 Fox fork mud guard as a longer alternative.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

revver said:


> Thanks, looking forward to ride the High Pivot Druid.
> 
> So it's around 60.5mm. I was looking at the RRP direct mount mud guard and maybe the 2021 Fox fork mud guard as a longer alternative.


No way, I have both the smaller rrp bolt on fender and the 2021 fox fender and the rrp is huuuuuuge and the fox bolt holes are way past the seatstays.


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## KineticFear (Jan 25, 2012)

Sold


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

revver said:


> Thanks, looking forward to ride the High Pivot Druid.
> 
> So it's around 60.5mm. I was looking at the RRP direct mount mud guard and maybe the 2021 Fox fork mud guard as a longer alternative.


I have attached a quick dimensional sketch I made for the mudguard. You can use this to see what will fit.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

my xt druid arrived a few days ago. i'm super stoked.

anyone having difficulty dialing their 2021 fox 36? i've been following fox guy jordie's suspension guide on youtube and going by the pressure recommendations he and fox make. 

i'm between 165-170 with gear. my fork is at 82 psi to get the recommended max sag of 20% (or 30mm) and running the 2 tokens that came installed. i've dialed in the compression and rebound:

hsr - 5 clicks from closed
lsr - 7 clicks from closed
hsc - 7 clicks from closed
lsc - 12 clicks from closed

the bike just doesn't feel balanced. i have the dpx2 at 19mm sag, rebound 3 clicks from full pogo and compression open as forbidden recommends. it's like the front and rear not working well together. 

here is how i would describe it: you know when your front wheel bumps into a rock or something and the rock is too big for your speed? so you kinda do a mini endo as your bike's rear end kicks up? that's kinda what it feels like all the time.

any thoughts or insight would be appreciated.


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## epicxcrider123 (Nov 28, 2008)

Seems like too much pressure in the fork, I'm between 185 and 195 kitted and run ~80 psi to use full travel on the steepest trails I ride. Fork feels pretty good at that pressure. HSC is open when rooty & rocky, up to half when smoother. Tune dynamic ride height with LSC.

Rear is set up at 140-145 psi and feels great. I've tried higher pressure but it just doesn't feel right - bounces off rather than absorbing roots and rocks.



Iamblichus said:


> my xt druid arrived a few days ago. i'm super stoked.
> 
> anyone having difficulty dialing their 2021 fox 36? i've been following fox guy jordie's suspension guide on youtube and going by the pressure recommendations he and fox make.
> 
> ...


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

senorbanana said:


> I have attached a quick dimensional sketch I made for the mudguard. You can use this to see what will fit.
> View attachment 1344233


Thanks. I will look around.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Rookie question/issue: I took the chain off the idler wheel to install a new chain stay guard. I now can’t get the chain to seat well back onto the idler pulley so it’s clunking when peddled. Any tips on getting the chain aligned with the idler pulley? I’m running SRAM XX1 AXS and can’t decide if I have to reprogram the AXS system or if it’s something unique to the Druid. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

just keep taking the chain on and off the pulley till it slips into its groove.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I haven't used the Rev grips but have read/watched some good reviews. It sounds like they make a substantial difference.
> 
> How are you "installing" the moto foam? I will have mine this week but thought you just cut it to size and wedge it in.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ive got revgrips.
i got them after breaking my hand and having 9weeks off the bike, got the grips went straight too whistler bike park and didnt get arm pump or anything. i havnt back to back tested with other grips but i havnt wanted too.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

If anyone with a matte black druid, size L is interested in a spare rear triangle for really, really cheap shoot me a PM. Totally functional except for a broken nutsert for the rear fender (you can run a normal fender instead) and would rather it go to a good home than the dumpster


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Iamblichus said:


> my xt druid arrived a few days ago. i'm super stoked.
> 
> anyone having difficulty dialing their 2021 fox 36? i've been following fox guy jordie's suspension guide on youtube and going by the pressure recommendations he and fox make.
> 
> ...


Pull out one of the tokens. I'm pretty sure that Fox believes that everyone does dorp to falt all the time, every time. Two volume spacers can make the fork a little harsh at your [our] weight, although the 2021 is MUCH better in terms of plushness than previous versions.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

So...

I finally have my Druid dialled almost perfectly. 

I suspect I damaged my bike washing it carelessly, too much, or both. So far I have destroyed the bearings in the high idler, my front DT240 hub, and my Wheels Mfg BB. I need to be much more careful. That said, everything looked fine inside - no contamination, so maybe it’s just mileage but I highly doubt that. 

Anyway, after depleting my bank account even more, it’s now running silently and silky smooth. 

The only issue I have at the moment is I find I get a little caught up in slow speed roots and holes that I ride through (without popping the front end over). I can’t tell if it’s front or back, or both. Not sure if I need to increase LSC for both my fork and shock, maybe decrease rebound, maybe increase psi in my fork slightly, or a combo. 

Anyway, I’m down to the fine strokes. I am almost 100% “there”. A little more trail side button fiddling and I think I will have finally reached the pinnacle. 

I love this bike.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So...
> 
> I finally have my Druid dialled almost perfectly.
> 
> ...


Just to add a bit more confusion to your settings. If your hitting the roots at speed, it becomes hsc. Also worth nothing if you find a good rooty section that doesn't feal right, stop and session it. Try a run with your current settings, then go massive harder ie 4-6 clicks more compression. If it feals **** then you need to go the other way.
I found with my luftkappe installed I could back off my compression completely and bomb through anything. When riding slow tech I add like 3-4 clicks of lsc.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

The idler, hub, AND the BB? Damn, I'm sorry to hear that. Pressure washer?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Oh yeah. And V1 —> V2 link. 

No. Not a pressure washer. Never. Just my garden hose on a gentle spray. What I have been doing for the past 20 years with no issues.

I actually don’t think it’s from washing. Maybe just mileage. Or bad luck. Like I said, nothing looks contaminated internally. And again, I have changed nothing in my washing routine of 2 decades. I am always super careful.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I had a great night on the Druid yesterday. I even got a "OMG, is that a DRUID?!?!?!?" as I rode by one group. Another guy I passed on a climb jumped on my wheel and peppered me with questions for 500m. After that, I threw down PRs on the climb and the descent. It's witchcraft!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> I had a great night on the Druid yesterday. I even got a "OMG, is that a DRUID?!?!?!?" as I rode by one group. Another guy I passed on a climb jumped on my wheel and peppered me with questions for 500m. After that, I threw down PRs on the climb and the descent. It's witchcraft!


The other night on Strange Brew a guy was freaking out on my Druid. First time this year. Last year that happened every second ride. I literally drew a small crowd last summer at the picnic table on Odyssey. It turned into a Q&A. Like a press conference. This year, not so much so far. Everyone is dialled into their own world. Oblivious. The star of their own little movie out there.

And yeah. There's some serious sorcery going on with that bike. The harder I push it, the better it feels. The 11-6 has raised the ceiling not only on balls to the wall straight line mobbing, but also with climbing. And everything in between for that matter. Dialled.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So...
> 
> I finally have my Druid dialled almost perfectly.
> 
> ...


Any tips on internal cable routing slap? I'm three rides in on my build. First ride it was beautifully silent but I adjusted my BikeYoke dropper post upwards and had to pull a bit more cable through. Second ride the bike was noisy AF but I didn't do anything about it. Third ride, I took the time to isolate the noise and it seems to be the internal cable routing. I pulled the dropper post cable taught and tightened the "cable management flap" on the head tube but am still getting some loud cable slap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Any tips on internal cable routing slap? I'm three rides in on my build. First ride it was beautifully silent but I adjusted my BikeYoke dropper post upwards and had to pull a bit more cable through. Second ride the bike was noisy AF but I didn't do anything about it. Third ride, I took the time to isolate the noise and it seems to be the internal cable routing. I pulled the dropper post cable taught and tightened the "cable management flap" on the head tube but am still getting some loud cable slap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't help you with that except to give you hope. Last night mine was whisper quiet. Sublime.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

heyo. so while i am still sorting out my fork issues, at least have a fix for this. i learned this from the guys at OPEN:

https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/internal-housing-damper

reinstalling your cables is ideal. if you don't want to reinstall your cables, cut the foam long ways, use a little lube and slide it on.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

good idea. thank you! i do a fair amount of dropping to flat-- really though, nothing close to crazy. i'll try that today and see how it feels.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Iamblichus said:


> heyo. so while i am still sorting out my fork issues, at least have a fix for this. i learned this from the guys at OPEN:
> 
> https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/internal-housing-damper
> 
> reinstalling your cables is ideal. if you don't want to reinstall your cables, cut the foam long ways, use a little lube and slide it on.


Perfect, thanks. Does the Druid not have internal cable housing/routing? I thought it did for some reason but the noise coming from my bike says otherwise.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Has anyone tried the 160mm fork?


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Any tips on internal cable routing slap? I'm three rides in on my build. First ride it was beautifully silent but I adjusted my BikeYoke dropper post upwards and had to pull a bit more cable through. Second ride the bike was noisy AF but I didn't do anything about it. Third ride, I took the time to isolate the noise and it seems to be the internal cable routing. I pulled the dropper post cable taught and tightened the "cable management flap" on the head tube but am still getting some loud cable slap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've done this two different ways on different bikes. If you can wrap four or five zip ties around the cable over the inserted section, they stay pretty quiet. You don't cut the zip ties. Or you can pull the fork and cram some foam down the DT.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Any tips on internal cable routing slap? I'm three rides in on my build. First ride it was beautifully silent but I adjusted my BikeYoke dropper post upwards and had to pull a bit more cable through. Second ride the bike was noisy AF but I didn't do anything about it. Third ride, I took the time to isolate the noise and it seems to be the internal cable routing. I pulled the dropper post cable taught and tightened the "cable management flap" on the head tube but am still getting some loud cable slap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Remove the stash cover on the downtime and put your spares in a zip lock bag. Took away all the noise for me. A ring of Moto Foam might also do the trick too.


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## Scott O (Aug 5, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My drivetrain is dirty AF. It's actually a gold chain :eekster:
> 
> The ring is brand new today though. I only discovered today that I have been riding a 32 tooth ring all this time. I would have bet anyone it was a 30 tooth. Some of those sustained climbs might be a little less heinous now.
> 
> ...


Sorry, Mike. I was reading thread and it was very technical and confusing. The best thing I could come up with was, "I like your chain."


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So...
> 
> I finally have my Druid dialled almost perfectly.
> 
> ...


dude. you must wash your bike like a boss


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_HENDO_ said:


> Remove the stash cover on the downtime and put your spares in a zip lock bag. Took away all the noise for me. A ring of Moto Foam might also do the trick too.


Maybe that's why mine is silent. I have a tube (in a ziplock), levers and a few other things in there.

Except when my levers came loose and then I had thought I broke my frame with all the racket on the downs.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

_HENDO_ said:


> Remove the stash cover on the downtime and put your spares in a zip lock bag. Took away all the noise for me. A ring of Moto Foam might also do the trick too.


I have a tube stashed there already, no plastic bag but I also don't have any tools in there or anything.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I cut an old tube put all my tools spare hanger and tubeless dart then zip tied both ends to make it waterproof and secure. It's completely silent and protects the carbon.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

what size druids are you all riding? i cant fit a tube in the bb compartment (size M). there is no way i could put a tube and tools in there. maybe i need to get a light weight tube? i've been trying to stuff one of the tubes that came with the bike in there.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Iamblichus said:


> what size druids are you all riding? i cant fit a tube in the bb compartment (size M). there is no way i could put a tube and tools in there. maybe i need to get a light weight tube? i've been trying to stuff one of the tubes that came with the bike in there.


Large frame. Lightweight Specialized Turbo tube in a ziplock. I used a straw to vac pack it. Plus 2 interlocking plastic tire levers.

Plenty of room in my reverse SWAT box. So much so that when my levers came loose and started bouncing around in there, I thought I had broken my frame.

I expect I might have trouble trying to jam an OEM tube in there. Just as good - things are heavy enough as it is. Every bit helps.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Iamblichus said:


> my xt druid arrived a few days ago. i'm super stoked.
> 
> anyone having difficulty dialing their 2021 fox 36? i've been following fox guy jordie's suspension guide on youtube and going by the pressure recommendations he and fox make.
> 
> ...


Yes mine sucks to was deflecting like crazy im around 210 and down to 60 psi still feels bad

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Any tips on internal cable routing slap? I'm three rides in on my build. First ride it was beautifully silent but I adjusted my BikeYoke dropper post upwards and had to pull a bit more cable through. Second ride the bike was noisy AF but I didn't do anything about it. Third ride, I took the time to isolate the noise and it seems to be the internal cable routing. I pulled the dropper post cable taught and tightened the "cable management flap" on the head tube but am still getting some loud cable slap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mines super loud to after pulling cable out farther. Put some of the plastic frame wrap that came on the bike in the down tube seemed to help. Still get some rattle

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

jpec29 said:


> Yes mine sucks to was deflecting like crazy im around 210 and down to 60 psi still feels bad
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


My '20 with the Luftkappe feels better than my '21 with the Luftkappe for sure but "deflecting" makes it seem like your have too much compression damping. It's also worth noting that sometimes here in the PNW bad tire performance sometimes gets mistaken for bad fork performance. If you picked up a complete build with the Assegai's, I assume it doesn't have the MaxxGrip compound. Swapping to a slow rebound rubber like the MaxxGrip will keep your front end from pinging off of every oblique rock and root (which can feel like there's too much compression damping.)


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

smudge said:


> My '20 with the Luftkappe feels better than my '21 with the Luftkappe for sure but "deflecting" makes it seem like your have too much compression damping. It's also worth noting that sometimes here in the PNW bad tire performance sometimes gets mistaken for bad fork performance. If you picked up a complete build with the Assegai's, I assume it doesn't have the MaxxGrip compound. Swapping to a slow rebound rubber like the MaxxGrip will keep your front end from pinging off of every oblique rock and root (which can feel like there's too much compression damping.)


Strange your 2020 fork feals better than the 2021, both with luftkappe installed. I'm half tempted to get the slx build and coil the fork, with all these complaints about the new fork.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Strange your 2020 fork feals better than the 2021, both with luftkappe installed. I'm half tempted to get the slx build and coil the fork, with all these complaints about the new fork.


I miss the almost infinite adjustability of the DPX2. If you are going coil, front or back, make sure you take time to nail the right weight coil. And even then, regardless of how much thought you put into it, there is still a good chance you will f it up. Just search PB for how many are looking to sell or swap coils. It can turn into a real PITA. In addition to weight (which I don't seem to care about as much as others), for me this is one of the biggest downsides to anything coil sprung. Others may disagree.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I miss the almost infinite adjustability of the DPX2. If you are going coil, front or back, make sure you take time to nail the right weight coil. And even then, regardless of how much thought you put into it, there is still a good chance you will f it up. Just search PB for how many are looking to sell or swap coils. It can turn into a real PITA. In addition to weight (which I don't seem to care about as much as others), for me this is one of the biggest downsides to anything coil sprung. Others may disagree.


not to mention if your weight fluctuates by more than a few lbs throughout the year.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I miss the almost infinite adjustability of the DPX2. If you are going coil, front or back, make sure you take time to nail the right weight coil. And even then, regardless of how much thought you put into it, there is still a good chance you will f it up. Just search PB for how many are looking to sell or swap coils. It can turn into a real PITA. In addition to weight (which I don't seem to care about as much as others), for me this is one of the biggest downsides to anything coil sprung. Others may disagree.


But when you get it right..... How's your push shcok compared to the dpx2. Still not sure why everyone says the fox 36 2021 feals soo Bad. All the tech with negative air tunes and lighter shim stack should Make it super plush. Has anyone pulled it apart to see if fox has sorted out there over greasing. They normally put so much grease on the air piston that it reduced the negative air chamber significantly.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

Alanc12 said:


> But when you get it right..... How's your push shcok compared to the dpx2. Still not sure why everyone says the fox 36 2021 feals soo Bad. All the tech with negative air tunes and lighter shim stack should Make it super plush. Has anyone pulled it apart to see if fox has sorted out there over greasing. They normally put so much grease on the air piston that it reduced the negative air chamber significantly.


when I first got mine, I stripped it apart, wiped off all the slick honey cleaned it with alcohol and regreased it while installing the Luftkappe. I'm not sure why it's so different. I won't say that it's bad though, just different. It has a lot of mid stroke support at a fairly low pressure, but the small bump compliance isn't nearly as good at my older fork even after some heavy bracketing sessions. I'm not getting the full travel out of it either and if I drop the pressure and add spacers, it (predictably) sits further in its travel, I lose the mid-stroke support but do gain some small bump compliance.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Build done, first real ride today. This thing rips!

@MantanaB6 Sizing is different from the Offering, but the suspension is just better. I even had a Vorsprung tuned coil on the Evil, this beat that with the stock shock at a random amount of air and go!


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

krylon1892 said:


> View attachment 1345003
> 
> 
> Build done, first real ride today. This thing rips!
> ...


better how? plush, poppy monster truck, haha all of the above?


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Alanc12 said:


> better how? plush, poppy monster truck, haha all of the above?


Yes to those words! But really the Evil jumped well and was plenty poppy, and it pedaled well. It just lost it going fast it steep chunky stuff. I'd get bounced off line all the time. Today I rode in Port Angeles, some of the best natural downhill around, and while the druid was plenty poppy and pedaled well, it would take the steep chunky stuff so well!

I am curious how many spacers people are running to offset their lower guide? I've got one thick washer and one thin one and I'm still flexing the rear wheel into it. Anyone just done away with it completely?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

krylon1892 said:


> Yes to those words! But really the Evil jumped well and was plenty poppy, and it pedaled well. It just lost it going fast it steep chunky stuff. I'd get bounced off line all the time. Today I rode in Port Angeles, some of the best natural downhill around, and while the druid was plenty poppy and pedaled well, it would take the steep chunky stuff so well!
> 
> I am curious how many spacers people are running to offset their lower guide? I've got one thick washer and one thin one and I'm still flexing the rear wheel into it. Anyone just done away with it completely?


do you think you would notice a difference if you had a bigger travel druid?


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

onawave said:


> do you think you would notice a difference if you had a bigger travel druid?


Definitely felt it when I didn't make it all the way to a transition or landed flat, but I'm not sure that another 20mm of travel would be a huge improvement. What I would notice is the slacker head angle and longer wheelbase that a bigger bike usually comes with. And I wouldn't always notice it in a positive way.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, 
I understand the 126 links Sram Eagle chain will be enough for my M size frame with a 32T chainring and Eagle 50T cog. But due to supply, if i am only able to get the newer 52T Eagle and 34T chain ring, I will need more than the recommended 126 links chain for my M size frame?
Anyone here tried on the new Sram 52T eagle with a 34T chain ring?
Thanks.


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## bjtreglia (Feb 23, 2008)

I have the same problem flexing rear wheels into the lower chain guide pulley. I've tried three different rear wheels. Started with the Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel...way too much flex. I was really disappointed that rim didn't jive well. I've settled with the Crank Bros 
Synthesis wheel. But I have it dished a few extra millimeters to the left to minimize the rub during harder accelerations. I have also found better luck with a more narrow 2.3" width tire like the Maxxis Minion SS. I feel that this is somewhat of a design oversight on Forbidden's part. You can't really space out the chain guide further away from the rear tire, because you will then loose the efficient chain alignment between the chainring and the upper pulley. They should have gone with a wider BB like you find on a DH bike where there is no issue with tire rub on a chain guide.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

bjtreglia said:


> I have the same problem flexing rear wheels into the lower chain guide pulley. I've tried three different rear wheels. Started with the Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel...way too much flex. I was really disappointed that rim didn't jive well. I've settled with the Crank Bros
> Synthesis wheel. But I have it dished a few extra millimeters to the left to minimize the rub during harder accelerations. I have also found better luck with a more narrow 2.3" width tire like the Maxxis Minion SS. I feel that this is somewhat of a design oversight on Forbidden's part. You can't really space out the chain guide further away from the rear tire, because you will then loose the efficient chain alignment between the chainring and the upper pulley. They should have gone with a wider BB like you find on a DH bike where there is no issue with tire rub on a chain guide.


The lower guide? Have you tried just running without it?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

bjtreglia said:


> I have the same problem flexing rear wheels into the lower chain guide pulley. I've tried three different rear wheels. Started with the Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel...way too much flex. I was really disappointed that rim didn't jive well. I've settled with the Crank Bros
> Synthesis wheel. But I have it dished a few extra millimeters to the left to minimize the rub during harder accelerations. I have also found better luck with a more narrow 2.3" width tire like the Maxxis Minion SS. I feel that this is somewhat of a design oversight on Forbidden's part. You can't really space out the chain guide further away from the rear tire, because you will then loose the efficient chain alignment between the chainring and the upper pulley. They should have gone with a wider BB like you find on a DH bike where there is no issue with tire rub on a chain guide.


Running We Are One 27 id Insiders with a 2.4 DHR2 on the rear. 185 out of the shower. I have experienced zero issues along the lines you have described. I believe I have read/seen every review out there and have not heard of this issue. Then again, most of the reviews were running the Druid with We Are One wheelsets. How heavy are you?

Man - I hope we are not in for another Yeti-gate...where is Streetdoctor?


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## MantanaB6 (Oct 19, 2019)

krylon1892 said:


> Yes to those words! But really the Evil jumped well and was plenty poppy, and it pedaled well. It just lost it going fast it steep chunky stuff. I'd get bounced off line all the time. Today I rode in Port Angeles, some of the best natural downhill around, and while the druid was plenty poppy and pedaled well, it would take the steep chunky stuff so well!
> 
> I am curious how many spacers people are running to offset their lower guide? I've got one thick washer and one thin one and I'm still flexing the rear wheel into it. Anyone just done away with it completely?


How is the sizing different? I agree a bit about the Offering getting bucked a bit in high speed chunder, however I definitely had the DPX2 set up with a little more (probably too much) compression damping for better pedaling support (thing pedaled like a damn XC bike) and extra poppy feel. I hadn't had many rides prior to the bike getting stolen to really dive into the shock setup for the mix of trails I ride around Portland.

The question is, is it worth waiting till early August for Fanatik to get frames in stock? I may be able to borrow a buddies bike, but a month is a tall ask. If you live in the Port Angeles area, I might be going up there for work next week. Would love to check out your whip if possible! Seeing one in the flesh may sway my decision one way or the other.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Running We Are One 27 id Insiders with a 2.4 DHR2 on the rear. 185 out of the shower. I have experienced zero issues along the lines you have described. I believe I have read/seen every review out there and have not heard of this issue. Then again, most of the reviews were running the Druid with We Are One wheelsets. How heavy are you?
> 
> Man - I hope we are not in for another Yeti-gate...where is Streetdoctor?


Probably a coverup and why they are pushing the ziggy link. Solution to problem=smaller wheels! 

I'm running WAO Agents professionally built by Fanatik with not superlight spokes, so it's not flexy wheels. And I weigh about 175-180 depending on tacos. I am running a 2.5 Aggressor. Figured that Forbidden saying 2.4's and some 2.6's meant I could get away with a Maxxis 2.5 considering their tires are tiny. And clearance is good everywhere else. It's only during hard cornering or sprinting. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, its not like I'm grinding away on my $3,500 frame. And my next tire will be a 2.4.



MantanaB6 said:


> How is the sizing different? I agree a bit about the Offering getting bucked a bit in high speed chunder, however I definitely had the DPX2 set up with a little more (probably too much) compression damping for better pedaling support (thing pedaled like a damn XC bike) and extra poppy feel. I hadn't had many rides prior to the bike getting stolen to really dive into the shock setup for the mix of trails I ride around Portland.
> 
> The question is, is it worth waiting till early August for Fanatik to get frames in stock? I may be able to borrow a buddies bike, but a month is a tall ask. If you live in the Port Angeles area, I might be going up there for work next week. Would love to check out your whip if possible! Seeing one in the flesh may sway my decision one way or the other.


It just feels smaller than I thought the numbers would suggest going from medium to medium. I'm pretty happy with it, I have to move around less I feel like. My current stack is also a lot higher than I had it on the Offering so thats probably contributing to the change.

As to waiting, I've spent time on Santa Cruz, Canfield, Transition, and Evil in the last five years and I like it more than all those except maybe the Canfield. I really loved my Balance. But they don't have a 29er going right now. But if I couldn't wait, I'd try to test a Revel? I live in Port Townsend. I work during the day but if you swung by around five you could for sure check it out! There is a good short up and back trail here thats got a little of everything.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> Probably a coverup and why they are pushing the ziggy link. Solution to problem=smaller wheels!
> 
> I'm running WAO Agents professionally built by Fanatik with not superlight spokes, so it's not flexy wheels. And I weigh about 175-180 depending on tacos. I am running a 2.5 Aggressor. Figured that Forbidden saying 2.4's and some 2.6's meant I could get away with a Maxxis 2.5 considering their tires are tiny. And clearance is good everywhere else. It's only during hard cornering or sprinting. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, its not like I'm grinding away on my $3,500 frame. And my next tire will be a 2.4...


LOL re the Ziggy!!!

I have Agents on my Honzo. Both my Insider and Agent wheelsets were built by We Are One. This is the first I have heard of anything from We Are One resulting in anything rubbing. Even in the long Yeti thread, I don't believe there was a single instance of flex/rub with WAOs. I'm not even sure if there was a single instance with anything carbon. The issues there seemed to be with guys who refused to run anything other than alloy rims.

I am in the midst of torrential downpours but when I get out later this week, I will try my best to flex my rear wheel. I doubt I can.

As an aside, my 2.5 Aggressor on my Honzo is significantly beefier than the 2.4 DHR2 on my Druid. Maybe if I was running the 2.5 Aggressor on the Druid I would notice flex/rub. No way of knowing.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> LOL re the Ziggy!!!
> 
> I have Agents on my Honzo. Both my Insider and Agent wheelsets were built by We Are One. This is the first I have heard of anything from We Are One resulting in anything rubbing. Even in the long Yeti thread, I don't believe there was a single instance of flex/rub with WAOs. I'm not even sure if there was a single instance with anything carbon. The issues there seemed to be with guys who refused to run anything other than alloy rims.
> 
> ...


How do you like the WAO wheelset?

This is high on my "id really like to have this on my next bike" list......


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> How do you like the WAO wheelset?
> 
> This is high on my "id really like to have this on my next bike" list......


Exceptional. Both sets.

The Insiders are slightly blinged out. DT 240 hubs and cx-ray spokes. Or whatever they are called.

The Agents are less bling - DT 350s.

I'm running both with 36 tooth star ratchets (up from the stock 18 tooth).

Rock solid so far. The Agents are put through hell on my hard tail. I smash through **** with those with zero Fs given.

I did pooch the bearings on the front hub of my Insiders but that's not We Are One's fault.

Dustin is a good dude. He's generally accessible, patient and he has solid street cred from his former DH days with Giant. I have had nothing but positive purchase experiences with those guys.

Plus a Dustin and Jordan of We Are One both rock Druids.

What's not to like?


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> LOL re the Ziggy!!!
> 
> I have Agents on my Honzo. Both my Insider and Agent wheelsets were built by We Are One. This is the first I have heard of anything from We Are One resulting in anything rubbing. Even in the long Yeti thread, I don't believe there was a single instance of flex/rub with WAOs. I'm not even sure if there was a single instance with anything carbon. The issues there seemed to be with guys who refused to run anything other than alloy rims.
> 
> ...


I mean, all traditional wheels flex. I don't think mine flex any more than a stiff rim, well built with good spokes and hubs (I9) should. Its more that combining wheel flex, swingarm flex, and BB flex are pushing the tire into something attached to the front triangle. Maybe my pivots need going over, I've torqued everything to spec but haven't checked for wear. Obviously its not a huge problem and I am running a tire over what Forbidden recommends. It measures 2.44" to the outside of the cornering knobs at 25 psi. I'm going to live with it for now, rear tires don't last long and I'll switch when its worn. And for sure give it a shot! Its only when sprinting hard and pressing down with the right leg or in a hard left turn.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone try an EXT Storia V3? I've ran one before on my other bike. I'm curious how close they got the tune since these bikes.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> LOL re the Ziggy!!!
> ... Even in the long Yeti thread, I don't believe there was a single instance of flex/rub with WAOs. I'm not even sure if there was a single instance with anything carbon. The issues there seemed to be with guys who refused to run anything other than alloy rims.
> ...


I get rub on my SB6 and SB150 with carbon rims. I just don't make a big deal about it. I have no complaints about the suspension design of theirs, but I'm not a fan of some of the other choices they've made in their bike designs.


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## bjtreglia (Feb 23, 2008)

So I've tried the Zipp 3Zero Moto, DT Swiss EX 471, and the Crank Bros Synthesis rear wheels. For me, all three have flexed enough to get a buzz on the lower pulley of the chain guide during hard accelerations and hard cornering. The Synthesis has been the least amount of flex. All three wheels I have dished a few millimeters further to the left. All the wheels have properly tensioned spokes. The rear end of my Druid is solid. I normally run a Michelin Wild Rock'R2 2.35 tire, but I have the Maxxis Minion SS currently mounted. I weigh 180 lbs geared up; and I normally ride pretty darn aggressive. I have over 20 years of riding/racing scars to show for it. lol. I think running the 27.5 setup on the rear would probably solve this issue. It's not a huge issue for me, but it is somewhat annoying. I do love my Druid. High pivot bikes are the best performers IMHO.


mtnbkrmike said:


> Running We Are One 27 id Insiders with a 2.4 DHR2 on the rear. 185 out of the shower. I have experienced zero issues along the lines you have described. I believe I have read/seen every review out there and have not heard of this issue. Then again, most of the reviews were running the Druid with We Are One wheelsets. How heavy are you?
> 
> Man - I hope we are not in for another Yeti-gate...where is Streetdoctor?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

bjtreglia said:


> So I've tried the Zipp 3Zero Moto, DT Swiss EX 471, and the Crank Bros Synthesis rear wheels. For me, all three have flexed enough to get a buzz on the lower pulley of the chain guide during hard accelerations and hard cornering. The Synthesis has been the least amount of flex. All three wheels I have dished a few millimeters further to the left. All the wheels have properly tensioned spokes. The rear end of my Druid is solid. I normally run a Michelin Wild Rock'R2 2.35 tire, but I have the Maxxis Minion SS currently mounted. I weigh 180 lbs geared up; and I normally ride pretty darn aggressive. I have over 20 years of riding/racing scars to show for it. lol. I think running the 27.5 setup on the rear would probably solve this issue. It's not a huge issue for me, but it is somewhat annoying. I do love my Druid. High pivot bikes are the best performers IMHO.


We are talking the e thirteen chain guide pully? If so can't you rotate the whole thing clock wise to eb closer to the chain stay. May have to add a couple chain links as it will add tention too chain.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

I am now on my 14th month on the Druid just clicking over 2400 miles. During this time my experience was on a Maxxis 2.3 Aggressor in the rear. In my opinion, any tire above 2.3 you run the risk of buzzing the lower guide with either wheel or tire deflection. Take a gander down at the clearance. I have two aluminum wheels I ran with a Rimpact insert. One would buzz the guide and one would not.Things that help:

Stiff aluminum rim
More spokes
Dishing wheel
Carbon rim
Tire insert
Ziggy Link
Any combination of above

More Drastic Measures (None of which I would consider)

Lite Beer
Pizza only once/week
Stopping TRT
No turning
680mm Bars AKA no turning

Just as most folks don't notice their fork's poor performance. Many will not feel the subtle buzz of the lower guide. To put this into perspective, it was only happening 2-3 times on my 2 hour technical ride. J

PS: As always, your results may vary


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

One other thing I will add. 

I recently switched to the V2 link. It may be my imagination (and it likely is) but the rear end of the Druid now feels tighter to me. My whole bike felt better immediately after. 

Likely placebo but I will throw that out there. 

For me, 185 plus gear, 2.4 DHR2 and no noticeable rub. Maybe it’s happening and I just don’t notice it.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> One other thing I will add.
> 
> I recently switched to the V2 link. It may be my imagination (and it likely is) but the rear end of the Druid now feels tighter to me. My whole bike felt better immediately after.
> 
> ...


Good point,

I am now running the Ziggy with the V2 hardware. I am fairly sure the rub I had was on V1 hardware. Once I switch back to 29" I'll rerun the same scenario and report back . J


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

The V2 hardware now has the threads machined into link which may make a difference. J


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Just finished up my 4th ride on XT Druid. The idler pulley already has a lot of side to side play. This normal? Didn't check the play when I first got it. Seems excessive.


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

It should have pretty minimal play. Mine has 500 miles and probably 0.5mm slop side to side. 

Two things to double check:

Is it torqued to 10 nm? 

Is the washer in place behind the pulley? Mine somehow shipped without this piece, but I noticed before I rode it.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Threw a Schwable 2.6 x 27.5 Nobby Nic on the back of my Ziggy Linked bike. No issues. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just heading back from a nice gentlemanly rip in Canmore. No issues. But it also dawned on me mid ride that very likely, you guys are pushing this bike more than I am. That said, man did I have a blast today. This is day 1 of a triple header before the rain comes Sunday. Can't wait for tomorrow. And Saturday. Love this bike. I now have it 100% dialled.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Just heading back from a nice gentlemanly rip in Canmore. No issues. But it also dawned on me mid ride that very likely, you guys are pushing this bike more than I am. That said, man did I have a blast today. This is day 1 of a triple header before the rain comes Sunday. Can't wait for tomorrow. And Saturday. Love this bike. I now have it 100% dialled.
> 
> View attachment 1346003


You should hit up the Husky Road / Prairie Mountain area. The dirt is PRIMO. We rode Loamzilla last night, and it was an absolute delight.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> You should hit up the Husky Road / Prairie Mountain area. The dirt is PRIMO. We rode Loamzilla last night, and it was an absolute delight.


It's funny you mention that.

My text to an old riding buddy at 11:14 pm last night:

"Let me know if you when you and your crew plan to hit Husky Road next. I want to hit Loamzilla and Pistolero and a **** load of other stuff in there but I don't know the area well enough to be doing solos."

My first ride ever on the Druid was with that crew last year - I posted above somewhere about it. Family Guy --> SHAFT, then Husky Road --> Loamzilla.

I understand that there is a ride-around now for that sketch rock face on Loamzilla. I haven't been there since that was put in place.

I wish the Husky Road stuff was on TrailForks. I would feel a lot better about hitting it solo.

I also want to hit Razor's this summer. It's been a long time since I rocked that bad boy. I understand that there have been some significant improvements to it. I drive by it lots on the way to Canmore and think about it every time I pass the 2 little parking areas.

Now that I am in work from home mode, I REALLY need to ramp things up to where I was in 2015 - I rode for something like 37 days in a row in 2015. I need to start getting out for daily solo rides.

I have been riding a lot with my daughter. I love spending time with her and teaching her all I know on the trail, but I need to supplement that a lot more with some serious, balls to the wall riding.

A buddy of mine just bought a place in Golden too. I am headed out there for a couple of weekends to hit 7 with him. Dead Dog!!!

Last evening I committed to my GF and my daughter that I was going to ramp things up and make 2020 a season like I had in 2015, which was fn epic (Calgary and area, Fernie, Golden, Revy, Cumby Whistler, Moab, St. George, Hurricane, and on and on and on). Obviously I won't be able to travel as much, but thankfully we have all we need right in our backyard. I just hope I can keep the cramping in check...


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

As it is quite difficult to demo one of these bikes I need to make some comparisons or see what people think of it on trails I know. I've just spent a week in fernie bc, unfortunately only 3days of it has been any good for riding. Has anyone riden the trails around here on their druid, ild love to know what trails and how the bike went. For example I have a 180mm travel canyon torque and on rooty stuff like verboten, I can just stay off the brakes through all the chunky stuff. Would be good too see what the druid does in that kind of terrain.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> As it is quite difficult to demo one of these bikes I need to make some comparisons or see what people think of it on trails I know. I've just spent a week in fernie bc, unfortunately only 3days of it has been any good for riding. Has anyone riden the trails around here on their druid, ild love to know what trails and how the bike went. For example I have a 180mm travel canyon torque and on rooty stuff like verboten, I can just stay off the brakes through all the chunky stuff. Would be good too see what the druid does in that kind of terrain.


Ridden Fernie a bunch of times with my Druid, including Verboten. I'm down there quite a bit as it is within striking distance of me (3 hours). All of my riding impressions in my countless posts above are based on riding in Fernie, and similar riding conditions (although as a general statement, the Fernie trails are buff AF - they manage to keep most of them manicured - I am sure you witnessed evidence of the significant degree of trail maintenance they have going on there).

What other trails did you hit there?

Not a lot of/any Canyons in this neck of the woods. Did you see even one other while you were there?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

I agree, they are well maintained but there are still some nice spicy tech bits. If it floats through some of the gnarly stuff around here then I'm sold, especially considering it's only a 130mm bike


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> I agree, they are well maintained but there are still some nice spicy tech bits. If it floats through some of the gnarly stuff around here then I'm sold, especially considering it's only a 130mm bike


This is a fun thing to do next time you are there:

https://www.ferniebrewing.com/trail-ale#

I'm heading out shortly to do a ripper before it closes July 10 - Minnewanka:

https://www.trailforks.com/trails/minnewanka/

The Druid is equally at home on up and down and all around rippers, as it is on the typical up, up, up, down, down, down more gnarly kinda rides. Hitting something much less flowy tomorrow. I will report back then.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Haha yea I seen that, sounds like a mission.
Is there any trails that give the druid a hard time in fernie?
Might be a better question


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Haha yea I seen that, sounds like a mission.
> Is there any trails that give the druid a hard time in fernie?
> Might be a better question


Just looked at TrailForks. While I have yet to ride any of the double blacks or pro lines in Fernie with the Druid (there aren't many, and even less worth riding IMHO), I HAVE ridden a whack of the blacks. There was nothing I rode where I was wishing for a different bike. I have been amazed with the Druid (in a good way) on every ride.

Here it is, pre 11-6, in all its glory on Hyper V (which I assume you hit, given that it's a classic)...









EDIT: I would not want to have the Druid doing the chair assisted riding at the hill. I am sure it can handle it but I would be worried about beating it up unnecessarily. That's about the only limit I can think of.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Just rode Special K, and I think the Druid is definitely ready for trails like AM and AP. There is no way I acquired bike skills over the winter, so it must be the bike.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Just looked at TrailForks. While I have yet to ride any of the double blacks or pro lines in Fernie with the Druid (there aren't many, and even less worth riding IMHO), I HAVE ridden a whack of the blacks. There was nothing I rode where I was wishing for a different bike. I have been amazed with the Druid (in a good way) on every ride.
> 
> Here it is, pre 11-6, in all its glory on Hyper V (which I assume you hit, given that it's a classic)...
> 
> ...


Yea I done hyper ventilation last time in the wet. Don't really recall it being technical at all? Could just be my memory though.
I rode the resort a few times and only a couple trails up there are chunky, but from what I've read about this bike it should be able to handle it. Especially if it's going to be an EWS bike.


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

onawave said:


> do you think you would notice a difference if you had a bigger travel druid?


What do you ride / are planning to ride in Tassie? It sounds like you're really worried about stepping down from the SB150 to the Druid but do you actually need the extra travel?

I was riding my Druid in North Van / Squamish etc on way harder trails than we have in Australia before moving back recently and it never skipped a beat. I just can't imagine needing the bigger version for anything we have here. The Druid already feels long to me so going to a 63.5 degree HA is going to make it a burly plow bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

The Druid will definitely do park. It's just that with a dedicated DH sled sitting in my garage, not sure I want it taking the abuse.

https://m.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Frames,7/Forbidden/Druid,27121

"We have always been drawn to short travel bikes with a gravity bias, so we reached out to our friends in Cumberland, BC to get ourselves the Druid for a few months of riding in Squamish, BC..."
"...we never felt the need to use the compression lever on the shock to help with efficiency and very few can match its technical climbing prowess..."

"Regardless of what section we rode and how we rode it, the Druid was planted and confidence-inspiring when we dropped our heels, and poppy and playful when we jibbed about. On the shorter punchy bits, the lack of pedal feedback meant we could put power to the ground easily without blowing our feet off, and the shorter-than-usual travel meant we could climb far more efficiently than the enduro bikes that tend to frequent the trail most of the time..."

"Regardless of feeling a little badly about dragging a 130mm bike up the chairlift, the Druid took rougher trails in stride and was an absolute rocket ship on trails like Ninja Cougar. After being so fun on the rolling, playful trails in Squamish we were impressed that the Druid also felt planted and composed on such high-speed, abusive trails."

"The Druid makes a strong case as the pound-for-pound most capable bike we have thrown a leg over. It is energetic and nimble at lower speeds, and as the speeds and terrain get more demanding, the bike lengthens and settles into itself. Forbidden has created an extremely versatile bike, and the Druid confirms that the idler excels in applications other than just DH bikes. In a place like the Sea to Sky corridor, the terrain is intimidating enough that many folks rely on a long-travel bike for the handful of gnarly bits within a given ride, but a shorter travel bike like the Druid is capable enough to absorb the heavy impacts, and much more fun everywhere in between."

"...short travel "downcountry" bikes do not inspire the same confidence, nor can they withstand the abuse in a place like Squamish. The Forbidden Druid is truly a downhiller's trail bike: capable enough for reckless abandon, efficient enough that a recreational cross-country race is not out of the question and playful enough that mellower trails are still engaging. The Trifecta suspension design is proof that the high idler concept is effective and efficient in places other than the downhill track, and we would bet our bottom dollar that a race-oriented 160mm Forbidden offering would be an absolute weapon. The Druid is a great option for anyone but is best suited to those looking for a mini-DH bike that will allow them to climb efficiently and descend like hooligans."

***********************

From earlier today...


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Gloworm - agreed on all fronts. The bike is magical. I could not possibly ask for anything more. This is the third creation of Owen Pemberton I have owned. The dude hit it straight out of the park on this one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What's your Fox 36 damper settings. I'm close in weight at 178 out of the shower, 188 geared up. I just took a token out and it feels better, but am at 87 psi. Trying to get plusher without diving and bottoming on medium drops and features. Also running a Push ElevenSix R.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> What's your Fox 36 damper settings. I'm close in weight at 178 out of the shower, 188 geared up. I just took a token out and it feels better, but am at 87 psi. Trying to get plusher without diving and bottoming on medium drops and features. Also running a Push ElevenSix R.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It says FIT4 on the fork, but I replaced that with a GRIP2. Also running a Luftkappe, which is roughly equal to 1 token.

I will post the settings tomorrow. I have no idea what they are at the moment. I believe PSI is at 85 though. Or 87. I can't remember. I will confirm and post tomorrow.


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## kit_nz (Jul 6, 2020)

Hi all, apologies if it's been covered before, but I'm looking for some intel on dropper length. My Druid (L) is on order and I can pick between a 160 or a 185 bike yoke post. Would obviously like the longer one, as long as I can pedal it when it's slammed. I'm 5'10" and the frame's a large, so I kinda feel like a 160 might be best fit - anyone of similar height got experience on a Large with a bike yoke (or any other). Cheers


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

kit_nz said:


> Hi all, apologies if it's been covered before, but I'm looking for some intel on dropper length. My Druid (L) is on order and I can pick between a 160 or a 185 bike yoke post. Would obviously like the longer one, as long as I can pedal it when it's slammed. I'm 5'10" and the frame's a large, so I kinda feel like a 160 might be best fit - anyone of similar height got experience on a Large with a bike yoke (or any other). Cheers


I have a large, I'm 5'10", and I run a 210mm OneUp dropper.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It says FIT4 on the fork, but I replaced that with a GRIP2. Also running a Luftkappe, which is roughly equal to 1 token.
> 
> I will post the settings tomorrow. I have no idea what they are at the moment. I believe PSI is at 85 though. Or 87. I can't remember. I will confirm and post tomorrow.


Ah, yes, I should have mentioned: Mine is 150 2021 36 Grip 2. Has a 17% larger negative spring than previous. So is not quite apples to apples. I do get the inkling to throw a Smashpot or ACS3 in the fork to better match the rear. But for now will tweak away to find the best match as is.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kit_nz (Jul 6, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> I have a large, I'm 5'10", and I run a 210mm OneUp dropper.


Nice one, cheers


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I've got a Large with PNW bachelor 200mm travel and it sits about an inch and a half or so above the collar. You could definitely slam the 180.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

So i have two+ weeks of riding my new xt druid in the north shore and squamish. I am still trying to get my fork dialed, but it's much better than it was. I followed the suggestions made above (thank you), but I'm still messing with pressure and tokens.

Couple questions:

is anyone running their 36 at 160mm? thoughts?

anyone running the Ziggy mullet setup? thoughts??


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Iamblichus said:


> So i have two+ weeks of riding my new xt druid in the north shore and squamish. I am still trying to get my fork dialed, but it's much better than it was. I followed the suggestions made above (thank you), but I'm still messing with pressure and tokens.
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> ...


I'm running a 36 at 160. It was at that setting on the last bike and I didn't feel like switching the Luffkauppe to the shorter airshaft so threw it on. It seems great so far and I don't plan on changing it! Granted, I don't have any time on the bike with a 150. 
I think more than the travel for me its the added stack, between that and 35mm rise bars this is by far the tallest stack I have ever had on any bike, I'm really digging the riding position for steep stuff. And as to fork woes, I had my Fit4 damper tuned by Vorsprung years ago and between that and the Luftkauppe, have never looked back. It just works! Super supportive and predictable pushing it and I only really notice it anymore when I make a stupid mistake and it eats a big hit in the most amazing way. I think of it like getting a Push or EXT shock, they aren't doing anything secret or groundbreaking, just tuning the damper to you and your riding very closely. And for me thats always going to be better than a damper with a wide range of adjustability. The Fit4's go by really cheap because people are upgrading to the Grip2.

I'm staring at a Ziggy link right now, waiting for the hub to show up so I can lace a rim I had laying around up and give it a try. Excited to experiment!

Also been wondering if anyone has long shocked this bike yet?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Iamblichus said:


> So i have two+ weeks of riding my new xt druid in the north shore and squamish. I am still trying to get my fork dialed, but it's much better than it was. I followed the suggestions made above (thank you), but I'm still messing with pressure and tokens.
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> ...


I have the same bike is size large. I'm only running 150, but do note that Forbidden states that running above 150 voids the warranty, FYI. Definitely find that a bit surprising, but so be it.

The fork definitely felt firm at recommended Fox settings and using stock two tokens for my weight . Still fiddling with settings but am aware that my previous coiled fork is probably messing with my head somewhat. Probably will coil again at some point when parts are available.

Just curious, is your stock RaceFace Aeffect post super stiff at the lever? Mine is horrendously hard to activate. Going to try to warranty with RaceFace, but will likely dump that crap for a real post like a Bike Yoke or a Transfer.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> I have the same bike is size large. I'm only running 150, but do note that Forbidden states that running above 150 voids the warranty, FYI. Definitely find that a bit surprising, but so be it.
> 
> The fork definitely felt firm at recommended Fox settings and using stock two tokens for my weight . Still fiddling with settings but am aware that my previous coiled fork is probably messing with my head somewhat. Probably will coil again at some point when parts are available.
> 
> ...


It almost sounds like your post cable is pinching so where? If you lose the seat post clamp and raise the seat post, Can you move the cable housing through the frame


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> It almost sounds like your post cable is pinching so where? If you lose the seat post clamp and raise the seat post, Can you move the cable housing through the frame


Already took it apart, checked the cable without the post hooked up. Cable was smooth as butter. Only stiff when connected to post. Nothing over tightened, everything torqued properly. Comparing it to a 2 year old Transfer with Wolf Tooth lever which was very light action. Aeffect post also already feels sticky and doesn't slide smooth. Only 10 rides on it. Reminds me of my old PNW Bachelor which also had the exact same problem (with sticky sliding). Everything else is pretty spot-on.

Only nuisance is getting ARC rims to seal completely with sealant. Air seems to leak through sidewall. (Not the tape. Checked and retaped. Done this a million times before). Starting to hold air better, but had to add sealant a few times at high pressure (50 psi) and going through every possible angle like the Kama Sutra. 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I have the same bike is size large. I'm only running 150, but do note that Forbidden states that running above 150 voids the warranty, FYI. Definitely find that a bit surprising, but so be it.
> 
> The fork definitely felt firm at recommended Fox settings and using stock two tokens for my weight . Still fiddling with settings but am aware that my previous coiled fork is probably messing with my head somewhat. Probably will coil again at some point when parts are available.
> 
> ...


My dropper lever is super stiff just like the grip2 fork. Both killing my hands. Fork been major disappointment. High speed dampening is terrible. Dropper just annoying like dropper cable rattling

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> My dropper lever is super stiff just like the grip2 fork. Both killing my hands. Fork been major disappointment. High speed dampening is terrible. Dropper just annoying like dropper cable rattling
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Wow, that's a disappointment. Sounding like the post is as bad as I thought. It's downright near dangerous. I've had a few close calls where the lever was so stiff, my finger slipped off trying to activate or it wouldn't slide down fast enough (sticky). Damn near got bucked on some jumps with seat still up. Yikes

Also working on the hard to reach cable housing rattling over medium bumps. Going to require some deep multi-hour "surgery" to fix that problem properly. I have a rather OCD-like need to have zero rattling on my bikes. Noise equals something not working or coming apart. Noises that shouldn't be there (rattling cables) muffle potential problems elsewhere. I can deal with loose cables as much as I shouldn't need to. Buying a new seatpost to replace a new one is a bit of a bummer.

Not sure why fork is so stiff feeling out of the gate for so many. I added ESI Chunky grips to improve comfort. I need to put it through a thorough adjustment bracketing on various terrain before I make any final judgements. That said... Smashpot may be on the horizon.

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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Wow, that's a disappointment. Sounding like the post is as bad as I thought. It's downright near dangerous. I've had a few close calls where the lever was so stiff, my finger slipped off trying to activate or it wouldn't slide down fast enough (sticky). Damn near got bucked on some jumps with seat still up. Yikes
> 
> Also working on the hard to reach cable housing rattling over medium bumps. Going to require some deep multi-hour "surgery" to fix that problem properly. I have a rather OCD-like need to have zero rattling on my bikes. Noise equals something not working or coming apart. Noises that shouldn't be there (rattling cables) muffle potential problems elsewhere. I can deal with loose cables as much as I shouldn't need to. Buying a new seatpost to replace a new one is a bit of a bummer.
> 
> ...


I'm right there with you! 100% keep me updated on fork if you see any improvements or solution to cable rattle. I don't feel like tearing into brand new fork and spending another $150 either but seems it's headed that way. Dropper is somewhat expected for being cheap raceface stuff. Other bike has a bikeyoke

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> I'm right there with you! 100% keep me updated on fork if you see any improvements or solution to cable rattle. I don't feel like tearing into brand new fork and spending another $150 either but seems it's headed that way. Dropper is somewhat expected for being cheap raceface stuff. Other bike has a bikeyoke
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yeah, I'll update.
I don't fault Forbidden so much for cutting costs on certain components. Overall it's a sick-riding boutique bike with high-value package. Seatpost was the only lemon for me.

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Yeah, I'll update.
> I don't fault Forbidden so much for cutting costs on certain components. Overall it's a sick-riding boutique bike with high-value package. Seatpost was the only lemon for me.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Man th 2021 fork was one of the main reasons I was going to get the xt over the slx. May he better to get the slx and throw a few upgrades in straight away. 
Like coil the fork chuck the last generation of grip2 in it. I've got brakes and cockpit that I'm swapping out anyway. Should even have a few $ towards a coil out back then.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> Man th 2021 fork was one of the main reasons I was going to get the xt over the slx. May he better to get the slx and throw a few upgrades in straight away.
> Like coil the fork chuck the last generation of grip2 in it. I've got brakes and cockpit that I'm swapping out anyway. Should even have a few $ towards a coil out back then.


Yeah, I don't want to seed any misinformation regarding the 2021 36. I have not had a Fox 36 before and my last fork was a coiled Pike. It could simply be getting the settings on the 2021 correct for one's riding style. My last few rides have felt better than out of the box, but that's to be expected. Some riders are stoked once the get the settings right. Between the SLX and XT, I'd happily ride either the Bomber or the 36. Both tunable and upgradable.

The XT model has some good components too, like full XT, 4 pot disc and Dt Swiss 350 which I've already upgraded the 54 tooth ratchet. I added a Push ElevenSix but not due to poor performance of the DPX2. Almost perfect.

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

For those of you that have gone coil in the back, what are your thoughts? Has it put this bike on another level?

With my currant dpx2 it had been great for flow trails and mild tech. 
But lately I am finding I am getting beat up on the rough trails. I recently installed cushcore, and it has helped dampen the trail some. 
I’m finding the bike just can’t handle the repeated hits to keep my speed up before a feature. 

I’m located the BC interior, so there are some rough trails. I ride these same trails on my Levo SL @150 travel front/rear and this bike eats everything for lunch. 
I keep reading that the Druid rides like a much bigger bike. 


I’m leaning on getting a EXT storia, maybe this would help?
or save the money and get a different bike. 

Thoughts on a rear coil?
Thanks


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> For those of you that have gone coil in the back, what are your thoughts? Has it put this bike on another level?
> 
> With my currant dpx2 it had been great for flow trails and mild tech.
> But lately I am finding I am getting beat up on the rough trails. I recently installed cushcore, and it has helped dampen the trail some.
> ...


I am still tinkering with the settings of my 11-6 but I would not say I have gained much, if anything, with respect to what you are talking about (smoothing out repeated high speed hits). The DPX2 was very nicely speced for that. Then again, I remain concerned that I should be on a 425 lb spring and not a 450. Maybe that would add a bit of plushness.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Yeah you might be right there with the spring situation. I have had 11-6 on both my offering and wreckoning, and they were great for the high speed hits. 


I was just worried that 130mm of coil might not do to much. 
Anyways I pulled the trigger on the storia, this Am. 
So I will be able to report back if it improves the ride or not. 


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Yeah you might be right there with the spring situation. I have had 11-6 on both my offering and wreckoning, and they were great for the high speed hits.
> 
> I was just worried that 130mm of coil might not do to much.
> Anyways I pulled the trigger on the storia, this Am.
> ...


I have a few friends that ride storia on differant bikes, and all of them say they can't go back to anything else. Looking forward to your ride report


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am still tinkering with the settings of my 11-6 but I would not say I have gained much, if anything, with respect to what you are talking about (smoothing out repeated high speed hits). The DPX2 was very nicely speced for that. Then again, I remain concerned that I should be on a 425 lb spring and not a 450. Maybe that would add a bit of plushness.


Whats your riding weight? I'm 165-168lbs and I usually run 450-475 spring. I'm getting ready to put a coil on my Druid.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Hey so not only am I trying to dial my own fork, my partner just bought a new bike. It came with a 2020 Fox 36 Fit4. She weighs 125 and is super unhappy. I have been making adjustments after every ride and still she says: it's too harsh. last night, she added but the mid has good support. I spoke to a suspension guy I know. He said to cut the oil weight in half. So from 20w to 10w. Anyone try this?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey so not only am I trying to dial my own fork, my partner just bought a new bike. It came with a 2020 Fox 36 Fit4. She weighs 125 and is super unhappy. I have been making adjustments after every ride and still she says: it's too harsh. last night, she added but the mid has good support. I spoke to a suspension guy I know. He said to cut the oil weight in half. So from 20w to 10w. Anyone try this?


She is very light and the 36 is traditionally a stiffer fork. With the fit4 she could get the tractive tune from vorsprung and/or vorsprung luftkappe to make it super soft of the top. If you don't wana go down that road of spending money yet, you can always try lower the pressure and add a token.
The oil thing will also help but not sure how noticeable it will be.
Personally for me the luftkappe was a game changer


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## k2enemy (Jul 8, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Yeah, I don't want to seed any misinformation regarding the 2021 36. I have not had a Fox 36 before and my last fork was a coiled Pike. It could simply be getting the settings on the 2021 correct for one's riding style. My last few rides have felt better than out of the box, but that's to be expected. Some riders are stoked once the get the settings right. Between the SLX and XT, I'd happily ride either the Bomber or the 36. Both tunable and upgradable.
> 
> The XT model has some good components too, like full XT, 4 pot disc and Dt Swiss 350 which I've already upgraded the 54 tooth ratchet. I added a Push ElevenSix but not due to poor performance of the DPX2. Almost perfect.


I feel like I've been lucky. My fork, dropper and rear shock have been excellent. I've ridden it on Cypress, Fromme, Seymour, Eagle and Squamish and it has felt great on all the trails. Fast and playful.

I haven't noticed any harsh bottom outs on the rear. I am running the PSI slightly less than my weight in lbs (160ish PSI for 165 - 170 lbs).

For fork I am running a little bit less air pressure than recommended on the fork. Feels excellent. I don't recall what any of my settings are but I've changed it to suite how I like forks to feel.

Dropper post was something I expected to maybe crap out, and it is still early days, but so far it feels excellent.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

k2enemy said:


> I feel like I've been lucky. My fork, dropper and rear shock have been excellent. I've ridden it on Cypress, Fromme, Seymour, Eagle and Squamish and it has felt great on all the trails. Fast and playful.
> 
> I haven't noticed any harsh bottom outs on the rear. I am running the PSI slightly less than my weight in lbs (160ish PSI for 165 - 170 lbs).
> 
> ...


Yeah it seems a bit less air and possibly removing a token will help dial it in a lot. I'm loving my ride, already better without perfected tuning on forks. Glad it's riding sharp.

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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

RE: Fox 36

Almost every Fox 36 I have gotten from the factory for the last 5 years has come with way too much slick-honey slathered all over the air shaft/negative air Eq port. First thing I do off the bat now with every Fox 36 is tear it down to check this and install a LuftKappe. Such a big difference IMHO.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey so not only am I trying to dial my own fork, my partner just bought a new bike. It came with a 2020 Fox 36 Fit4. She weighs 125 and is super unhappy. I have been making adjustments after every ride and still she says: it's too harsh. last night, she added but the mid has good support. I spoke to a suspension guy I know. He said to cut the oil weight in half. So from 20w to 10w. Anyone try this?


My wife's bike has a 2020 36 150 GRIP2. She's 130#. The first thing I did was pull out a volume spacer [maybe all of them?]. After that, I set sag the old-fashioned way - having her sit on the bike. The air pressure is lower than recommended to get the sag right. Compression and rebound damping are close to factory recommendations for her weight. With those changes, she's getting full travel on most rides, something she struggled with on her previous fork, a Fox 34 FIT4.

Now, to your actual question! I've used everything from 0 to 40 weight oil in forks over the years, and it can make a difference to the feel. I had a DVO Emerald where I adjusted the shim stack and the suspension oil in the open-bath damper. I found that the stock damping was way too harsh, so I did everything I could to "lighten" the feel. It worked, and the epic arm pump and chatter over braking bumps generally went away. In contrast, the FIT4 uses a closed damping cartridge, so you would need to change the damper oil as opposed to the lubrication oil that sits in the legs. Totally doable, but servicing the damper is significantly more work than pulling the volume spacers out and lowering the air pressure. If you've already done that, then the damper oil change is definitely worth trying, or even sending the fork to somebody like Vorsprung for a full custom tune.

My $0.02, YMMV.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Thought I'd give an update about running without the lower guide. I've been running without it for a few rides now and have no issues nor do I see any negatives at this point. I use the Druid as a daily trail bike and it sees a lot of climbing. Removing the lower guide improved shifting for me (smoother, quicker) and makes pedaling under load feel like less work (also much quieter). If you climb alot or are curious it's really easy and quick to remove so give it a try. Just make sure to remove the whole lower piece including the bash guard or else the chain slaps against it.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kootenay rider said:


> Thought I'd give an update about running without the lower guide. I've been running without it for a few rides now and have no issues nor do I see any negatives at this point. I use the Druid as a daily trail bike and it sees a lot of climbing. Removing the lower guide improved shifting for me (smoother, quicker) and makes pedaling under load feel like less work (also much quieter). If you climb alot or are curious it's really easy and quick to remove so give it a try. Just make sure to remove the whole lower piece including the bash guard or else the chain slaps against it.


Mind posting a pic of your set up? Thanks

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

cheezwhip said:


> RE: Fox 36
> 
> Almost every Fox 36 I have gotten from the factory for the last 5 years has come with way too much slick-honey slathered all over the air shaft/negative air Eq port. First thing I do off the bat now with every Fox 36 is tear it down to check this and install a LuftKappe. Such a big difference IMHO.


Yeah, I contacted Vorsprung and the 2021 36 fork upgrades are still in development. Curious how a Luftkappe would look given the new 36 fork already has a 17% larger negative spring. Vorsprung would likely find room for improvement. I should tear the fork down and check the grease. Forgot to do that.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> My wife's bike has a 2020 36 150 GRIP2. She's 130#. The first thing I did was pull out a volume spacer [maybe all of them?]. After that, I set sag the old-fashioned way - having her sit on the bike. The air pressure is lower than recommended to get the sag right. Compression and rebound damping are close to factory recommendations for her weight. With those changes, she's getting full travel on most rides, something she struggled with on her previous fork, a Fox 34 FIT4.
> 
> Now, to your actual question! I've used everything from 0 to 40 weight oil in forks over the years, and it can make a difference to the feel. I had a DVO Emerald where I adjusted the shim stack and the suspension oil in the open-bath damper. I found that the stock damping was way too harsh, so I did everything I could to "lighten" the feel. It worked, and the epic arm pump and chatter over braking bumps generally went away. In contrast, the FIT4 uses a closed damping cartridge, so you would need to change the damper oil as opposed to the lubrication oil that sits in the legs. Totally doable, but servicing the damper is significantly more work than pulling the volume spacers out and lowering the air pressure. If you've already done that, then the damper oil change is definitely worth trying, or even sending the fork to somebody like Vorsprung for a full custom tune.
> 
> My $0.02, YMMV.


Just to add to this, my stock 36 was a 2019 FIT4 140. I increased the travel to 150, changed the FIT4 damper to a 2019 GRIP2 and added a Luftkape.

The FIT4 was MUCH firmer in all respects than the current setup, regardless of button fiddling (which was more limited on the FIT4). But even the GRIP2 is a pretty firm feeling fork relative to its RockShox counterparts (IME).

One thing I would like to add is this...

With the Luftkappe, you lose some stack, or whatever you want to call it. The bike sits lower in the travel. This may place more pressure on your hands, depending on your cockpit setup.

Personally. I like a high stack.

I am still fiddling with my fork settings (and will try to post my current settings today). I think as a general comment, my experience is that Fox forks are not what i would call "plush". However, they remain my favorite fork for other reasons.

Finally, it has taken me a looooooooong time to understand suspension settings, and how to dial in a fork or shock, and I am still nowhere near what I would call proficient. I have access to free ShockWizes, and sometimes I have used them to get bikes in the ballpark (although that is no longer possible with the 11-6).

One thing I have learned - there does not seem to be any perfect suspension products. They all come with their unique pros and cons. Including the coil sprung products.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Mind posting a pic of your set up? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's the setup - 30T Chain ring/50T Cassette - 126 links - Large frame

Sorry for the rotated pics - not sure why that happened?


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

jpec29 said:


> My dropper lever is super stiff just like the grip2 fork. Both killing my hands. Fork been major disappointment. High speed dampening is terrible. Dropper just annoying like dropper cable rattling
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


How much do you weigh? You should be able to get the fork feeling decent at high speed. IMO, the high speed small bump compliance isn't nearly as good as last years fork but it makes up for it with the mid stroke support that the 2020 lacked.

Just as a data point on a trail that you might be familiar with for context...I'm 215lb, run my fork at 68psi, 20 clicks of HSC, 11 LSC. I don't really do big jumps or hucks to flat but I do try to go fast. If you regularly ride and Sandy Ridge you'll know Two Turn Tables and Upper Hide n Seek. I regularly hit 28-29mph down sections of those trails according to my data.

If you have the tools and patience, pull the lowers off and check the air side. The factory install almost always has too much grease everywhere, including the balance port. Clean it up a bit and be more modest with the re-lube and you might find the fork behave much differently. Also, if you're in Portland and can't do this on your own, I can help you out, but it'll be a few weeks until I have enough free time (unless you have a Planex and can mow down my popcorn ceilings)


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

smudge said:


> How much do you weigh? You should be able to get the fork feeling decent at high speed. IMO, the high speed small bump compliance isn't nearly as good as last years fork but it makes up for it with the mid stroke support that the 2020 lacked.
> 
> Just as a data point on a trail that you might be familiar with for context...I'm 215lb, run my fork at 68psi, 20 clicks of HSC, 11 LSC. I don't really do big jumps or hucks to flat but I do try to go fast. If you regularly ride and Sandy Ridge you'll know Two Turn Tables and Upper Hide n Seek. I regularly hit 28-29mph down sections of those trails according to my data.
> 
> If you have the tools and patience, pull the lowers off and check the air side. The factory install almost always has too much grease everywhere, including the balance port. Clean it up a bit and be more modest with the re-lube and you might find the fork behave much differently. Also, if you're in Portland and can't do this on your own, I can help you out, but it'll be a few weeks until I have enough free time (unless you have a Planex and can mow down my popcorn ceilings)


Thanks for some context I'm 215lb also. Started with their recommended pressure around 90psi with no low or high speed compression. Fork felt like it was locked out. Slow speed was harsh and high speed I was just deflecting off stuff no absorbition. Lower psi all the way down to 60psi. Small bump greatly improved but anything high speed was crazy harsh. Trail like upper hide n seek would kill my hands. Probably just need to drop lowers, just annoys me taking new fork apart or buying vorspung thingy.

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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

jpec29 said:


> Thanks for some context I'm 215lb also. Started with their recommended pressure around 90psi with no low or high speed compression. Fork felt like it was locked out. Slow speed was harsh and high speed I was just deflecting off stuff no absorbition. Lower psi all the way down to 60psi. Small bump greatly improved but anything high speed was crazy harsh. Trail like upper hide n seek would kill my hands. Probably just need to drop lowers, just annoys me taking new fork apart or buying vorspung thingy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I wouldn't buy the Luftkappe yet if I were you. It made a huge difference on my 2020 fork but not on the 2021. A buddy and I are riding tomorrow morning if you want to meet up and your schedule allows for it. I'm not sure yet if we're going to go to Cold Creek or Sandy yet but it would be around 9-9:30 either way.

Can you tell a difference in your HSC between fully open and fully closed? I'm wondering if it's still super stiff fully open and there's something wrong with the valving. I sell a lot of Fox forks and it's pretty rare to have a major QC problem but it has happened. I had a DHX2 with a borked up shim stack straight from the factory too.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

has anyone ridden this bike as a mullet? seems like it would be perfect for that kind of setup. and with the enduro version coming soon (bigger travel) the mullet might even be even better for that


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

I'm on the edge of buying this bike and setting it up for enduro. The mullet set up particularly stands out to me.

Why are you so sure that there is an enduro version Coming soon. I mean besides the fact forbidden now has a EWS rider.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kootenay rider said:


> Here's the setup - 30T Chain ring/50T Cassette - 126 links - Large frame
> 
> Sorry for the rotated pics - not sure why that happened?
> 
> View attachment 1347607


Did you take any links out of the chain when you removed the tensioner? I'm running an XX1 chain, no links added, on a size large with AXS setup. Looking at the drivetrain now and it seems like you'd definitely need to adjust the length of the chain. Maybe that's obvious, I'm am just not mechanically minded.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> I'm on the edge of buying this bike and setting it up for enduro. The mullet set up particularly stands out to me.
> 
> Why are you so sure that there is an enduro version Coming soon. I mean besides the fact forbidden now has a EWS rider.


I just have it under good authority they will release something in august. to be fair my biggest dilemma is trying to understand if the druid is enough bike for me, and actually buy a DH bike for shuttle days......

a good problem to have.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> I just have it under good authority they will release something in august. to be fair my biggest dilemma is trying to understand if the druid is enough bike for me, and actually buy a DH bike for shuttle days......
> 
> a good problem to have.


It's the same issue I'm having. Currently on a 180/175 bike and that thing gets a thrashing but it looks after me. Kinda wondering if 130 in the back would be hard on both me and the bike lol

August aye! Well that's basically the end of My riding season so maybe I should just hold off and see what's released


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> It's the same issue I'm having. Currently on a 180/175 bike and that thing gets a thrashing but it looks after me. Kinda wondering if 130 in the back would be hard on both me and the bike lol
> 
> August aye! Well that's basically the end of My riding season so maybe I should just hold off and see what's released


I would venture a guess that if you feel your 180/175 takes a thrashing, you will feel like hammered **** on the 150/130 Druid. While it may be witchcraft, it's not going to be able to compensate for 45 mm of travel in the rear. For me, compared to my rigid Unit (so to speak) and hardtail Honzo, the Druid is a magic carpet ride.

If you're looking for something that can handle park, I would definitely wait for Forbidden's new longer travel steed.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey so not only am I trying to dial my own fork, my partner just bought a new bike. It came with a 2020 Fox 36 Fit4. She weighs 125 and is super unhappy. I have been making adjustments after every ride and still she says: it's too harsh. last night, she added but the mid has good support. I spoke to a suspension guy I know. He said to cut the oil weight in half. So from 20w to 10w. Anyone try this?


My wife is a lightweight (about 110#) and likely less aggressive than your wife but one thing I've chosen to do is always choose lighter known more flexy/ compliant components. This includes frame (also chosen for absurdly short chainstays), forks, bars, tires, and now I'm building her new wheels with the same goal. 
I can't thoroughly test my theory of course because she doesn't have enough experience or riding consistency and I can't fit on her bike and that wouldn't translate anyways. However she does comment about changes and really is the princess and the pea and does very much notice changes to her set up that I incorporate. 
The point? Well larger more aggressive riders with slacker longer travel bikes are going to require more rigid componentry imo.
Maybe someday frame layups will even be weight specific?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Yeah you might be right there with the spring situation. I have had 11-6 on both my offering and wreckoning, and they were great for the high speed hits.
> 
> I was just worried that 130mm of coil might not do to much.
> Anyways I pulled the trigger on the storia, this Am.
> ...


I ordered the storia for mine and I've only been for 2 rides so far but it's a night and day improvement. The bike is still poppy and playful but it has completely transformed how well it rides through chatter and rough terrain.

I don't have much more to say yet but you won't be disappointed. I weigh around 80kgs and I'm running a 400lbs spring but I got the 425lbs as well.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I would venture a guess that if you feel your 180/175 takes a thrashing, you will feel like hammered **** on the 150/130 Druid. While it may be witchcraft, it's not going to be able to compensate for 45 mm of travel in the rear. For me, compared to my rigid Unit (so to speak) and hardtail Honzo, the Druid is a magic carpet ride.
> 
> If you're looking for something that can handle park, I would definitely wait for Forbidden's new longer travel steed.


I mean, I'm not the greatest rider so my current bike probably uses most of its travel making up for my riding and being a 27.5 I know it uses alot more travel when I'm hammering through chunky stuff.
When I watch Lewis Buchanan riding his, it looks like it could take anything I can through at it. It's really those oh [email protected] moments.

I have no doubt this thing would excel for 85-90% of my riding.

Generally I like to go as fast as possible, so this suspension design really lends it self to maintaining speed.
Where I live at the moment is really fun mellow trails with alot of pedalling. My bike is more gravity orientated.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Did you take any links out of the chain when you removed the tensioner? I'm running an XX1 chain, no links added, on a size large with AXS setup. Looking at the drivetrain now and it seems like you'd definitely need to adjust the length of the chain. Maybe that's obvious, I'm am just not mechanically minded.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No I didn't adjust the chain length, just left it alone. Removing the lower guide would effectively lengthen the chain I suppose but I haven't seen any issues from it yet. The recommendation from Forbidden is to add a link or 2 for the large frame so maybe the improvement in shifting I notice is from the lengthening of the chain? Regardless I'm happy with the result and again, it's a quick thing to try out.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kootenay rider said:


> No I didn't adjust the chain length, just left it alone. Removing the lower guide would effectively lengthen the chain I suppose but I haven't seen any issues from it yet. The recommendation from Forbidden is to add a link or 2 for the large frame so maybe the improvement in shifting I notice is from the lengthening of the chain? Regardless I'm happy with the result and again, it's a quick thing to try out.


Awesome, thanks for the detail

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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

https://www.ambmag.com.au/gallery/tested-forbidden-druid-550260

Saw Forbidden's instagram link this today,

I've been perusing this thread while waiting for my frame to arrive, anyone hear if Fanatik is still on track for "mid-late July" for US customers that ordered ~3 weeks ago?

Can not wait to build up my XL Cosmic Eggplant!


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

Anyone riding a 160mm fork on the Druid? I have a rs Lyrik Ultimate installed that I want to bump up to 160.


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

I really liked 160mm on my 27.5, for the plushness, plus I won’t mind another 5mm of stack


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

For the curious, I rode DH today at Mt. Bachelor which has fairly lava-rocky, rough terrain and a few flow trails with roots and rocks (Rattlesnake, Hot Dust, Cone Run, Big Wood). I rode the trails that were open but did about 7-9 runs with a Shock Wiz I rented on the 2021 Fox 36. I probably will do this again in a few weeks, to double check, but here are my fork settings info (rear is a 11-6 set to Push recommendation):

Rider weight ~188lbs with gear
1 token
79 psi (not the recommended 86)
(From closed, fully clockwise)
HSR-4
LSR-3
HSC-4
LSC-9

Some of the clicks are terribly hard to feel, so these are "accurate" 

Cheers


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## Wazzou (Jul 20, 2004)

I’m going to lengthen my lyrik to 160mm as soon as I can find a 2021 upgraded debonair spring in that length. Glad to hear you are liking the 160 on your bike. The front end seems too low to me plus the added length will allow for a little more sag and plush.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

ScrubNub said:


> I ordered the storia for mine and I've only been for 2 rides so far but it's a night and day improvement. The bike is still poppy and playful but it has completely transformed how well it rides through chatter and rough terrain.
> 
> I don't have much more to say yet but you won't be disappointed. I weigh around 80kgs and I'm running a 400lbs spring but I got the 425lbs as well.


That's great news!
Thanks. 
Not sure what the shop ordered me for springs. But I told them the situation I was having. So I trust the right springs will be shipped.

Really looking forward to giving this a go now!

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> For the curious, I rode DH today at Mt. Bachelor which has fairly lava-rocky, rough terrain and a few flow trails with roots and rocks (Rattlesnake, Hot Dust, Cone Run, Big Wood). I rode the trails that were open but did about 7-9 runs with a Shock Wiz I rented on the 2021 Fox 36. I probably will do this again in a few weeks, to double check, but here are my fork settings info (rear is a 11-6 set to Push recommendation):
> 
> Rider weight ~188lbs with gear
> 1 token
> ...


So how does it feal after shockwiz in comparison to previous generations..

I'm of the opinion that a fox 36 really Only comes to life after a luftkappe or coil install. But ild love for this new fork to change my mind.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> So how does it feal after shockwiz in comparison to previous generations..
> 
> I'm of the opinion that a fox 36 really Only comes to life after a luftkappe or coil install. But ild love for this new fork to change my mind.


coil on everything makes it come to life


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> So how does it feal after shockwiz in comparison to previous generations..
> 
> I'm of the opinion that a fox 36 really Only comes to life after a luftkappe or coil install. But ild love for this new fork to change my mind.


Unfortunately, this is my first Fox 36. I had a Pike with Luftkappe (much better), then got the ACS3 kit (best). 2021 fork does have a 17% larger negative spring than previous models, so don't know what Vorsprung will create for this in terms of Luftkappe. I'm going to ride on normal trails tomorrow too see how the adjustments feel as I did change a few dials yesterday significantly.

That said, I do envision a coil upgrade as soon as they are available for 2021 model. I just really like the added grip/control I get from coil.

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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Kootenay rider said:


> No I didn't adjust the chain length, just left it alone. Removing the lower guide would effectively lengthen the chain I suppose but I haven't seen any issues from it yet. The recommendation from Forbidden is to add a link or 2 for the large frame so maybe the improvement in shifting I notice is from the lengthening of the chain? Regardless I'm happy with the result and again, it's a quick thing to try out.


Hi, I have the thoughts of running without the lower guide too, but I will be on a medium frame with a planned 50T cassette at the rear and 32T chainring with the new Eagle derailleur for the 52T cassette. (AXS if money allows...)

Like to heard from the folks here if anyone have this 32T/50T combo on a medium frame running without the lower chain retention.

Thanks.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

My drivetrain was completely fixed from using axs. I guess the system had too much cable drag to allow for clean shifts down the cassette.


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## savechief (Jun 8, 2004)

I'd like to get opinions on sizing again, even though it's been discussed before. I'm about 6' 1/2" (184cm), and am debating between a L and XL. I see the numbers, and based on a reach of 465mm, the Large seems to be about 10mm short of where I'd like to be. Then I read people saying that by the numbers and due to the rearward axle path, the Druid feels bigger than the numbers would indicate. I would consider an XL, but the 450mm chainstays and nearly 50" wheelbase scare me a bit.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

senorbanana said:


> My drivetrain was completely fixed from using axs. I guess the system had too much cable drag to allow for clean shifts down the cassette.


Humm.... guess I need to look at the AXS option then... thanks for the feedback.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

savechief said:


> I'd like to get opinions on sizing again, even though it's been discussed before.  I'm about 6' 1/2" (184cm), and am debating between a L and XL. I see the numbers, and based on a reach of 465mm, the Large seems to be about 10mm short of where I'd like to be. Then I read people saying that by the numbers and due to the rearward axle path, the Druid feels bigger than the numbers would indicate. I would consider an XL, but the 450mm chainstays and nearly 50" wheelbase scare me a bit.


I am 6'0" running 800mm bars and 40mm stem and the bike fits perfect, I love the riding position. I am coming from 27.5" bike so I wouldn't want anything larger as this is already quite a transition.

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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

savechief said:


> I'd like to get opinions on sizing again, even though it's been discussed before. I'm about 6' 1/2" (184cm), and am debating between a L and XL. I see the numbers, and based on a reach of 465mm, the Large seems to be about 10mm short of where I'd like to be. Then I read people saying that by the numbers and due to the rearward axle path, the Druid feels bigger than the numbers would indicate. I would consider an XL, but the 450mm chainstays and nearly 50" wheelbase scare me a bit.


I'm right at 6'3" if I don't slouch, I waffled too but ended up going XL. Should have it built up in ~2 weeks or so hopefully... I would also suggest comparing effective top tube with your current ride. The Druid is going to be a little longer than my XL Rocky Instinct, but the L would've been shorter than my L Chromag Stylus.

I think I would stay L if I were in your shoes, and I generally like long bikes and stays, but will comment more when I actually have some rides in.


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## savechief (Jun 8, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I am 6'0" running 800mm bars and 40mm stem and the bike fits perfect, I love the riding position. I am coming from 27.5" bike so I wouldn't want anything larger as this is already quite a transition.


Sorry, is your bike a Large or XL? You don't say specifically, but based on what you've written I'm assuming it's a Large.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

savechief said:


> I'd like to get opinions on sizing again, even though it's been discussed before. I'm about 6' 1/2" (184cm), and am debating between a L and XL. I see the numbers, and based on a reach of 465mm, the Large seems to be about 10mm short of where I'd like to be. Then I read people saying that by the numbers and due to the rearward axle path, the Druid feels bigger than the numbers would indicate. I would consider an XL, but the 450mm chainstays and nearly 50" wheelbase scare me a bit.


6 '1.5 went with XL cuz I love the long chainstay. Bike doesn't feel big at all beside the high stack

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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

savechief said:


> Sorry, is your bike a Large or XL? You don't say specifically, but based on what you've written I'm assuming it's a Large.


Ha, ooops! Size Large, yes.

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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

savechief said:


> I'd like to get opinions on sizing again, even though it's been discussed before. I'm about 6' 1/2" (184cm), and am debating between a L and XL. I see the numbers, and based on a reach of 465mm, the Large seems to be about 10mm short of where I'd like to be. Then I read people saying that by the numbers and due to the rearward axle path, the Druid feels bigger than the numbers would indicate. I would consider an XL, but the 450mm chainstays and nearly 50" wheelbase scare me a bit.


At 6' (183cm) I've opted for a Large frame. I've only sat on the bike briefly for a very short car park test but it didn't feel too small or cramped. This was with a 40mm stem and 800mm bar.

Granted I've not picked the bike up yet and generally when putting down this sort of money on a bike I've usually had it for a demo and ridden it in anger. Yet I felt it was worth the risk in this case.

The reach of 465 bothered me a little as my current HT and previous long term demo (HPP) bike are both 480. Yet both have 35mm stems. So running a 50mm stem will balance the difference. I'm tempted to go with a 40mm. The ETT numbers to previous bikes are similar too.


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## Cliff Clavin (Jul 3, 2020)

*Druid Sizing*

Hi,
First time post and new Druid owner. Wondering what everyone feels with the sizing. Being from Ontario there were no dealers here to try one out. After seeing the reviews and many of the comments I ended up pulling the plug and buying a frame. Having not been able to try it I looked at the reach numbers and stack and it compared closely to my medium 2017 Trek Fuel EX 9.8. I do like that bike but I always felt I was riding on top of it and not in it. It felt harder to handle and like it was always a bit bigger bike for me. I'm 5'6 to 5'7 and 160 lbs and felt from the sizing chart that I would be better off sizing down to be more "playful". I'm planning to put a 140 mm fork, possibly the Pike Ultimate or the Fox 34. Any suggestions on either fork? Does the 42 mm vs 44 mm offset make any difference?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Cliff Clavin said:


> Hi,
> First time post and new Druid owner. Wondering what everyone feels with the sizing. Being from Ontario there were no dealers here to try one out. After seeing the reviews and many of the comments I ended up pulling the plug and buying a frame. Having not been able to try it I looked at the reach numbers and stack and it compared closely to my medium 2017 Trek Fuel EX 9.8. I do like that bike but I always felt I was riding on top of it and not in it. It felt harder to handle and like it was always a bit bigger bike for me. I'm 5'6 to 5'7 and 160 lbs and felt from the sizing chart that I would be better off sizing down to be more "playful". I'm planning to put a 140 mm fork, possibly the Pike Ultimate or the Fox 34. Any suggestions on either fork? Does the 42 mm vs 44 mm offset make any difference?


Welcome! You got the medium Druid? It should feel pretty spot on at your height. I started off with a 140mm Pike Ultimate, but found that I was catching pedals a little too often. I've since gone with a 150mm Fox 36 and it's a good setup for the riding I do. 42 vs 44 offset won't make a major difference, just make sure you don't get 51. Pike vs 34 - I'd go with the Pike Ultimate, to be honest. It's nice and plush. The 34 can now be had with a GRIP2 damper, which is the only way I'd go with it.


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## Cliff Clavin (Jul 3, 2020)

*Druid Sizing*

Thanks for your input on the sizing and fork selection. I actually got the small Druid as I'm at the upper end of the small at 5'6" to 5'7". As mentioned in my previous post I was not able to demo any sizes as there are no dealers in Ontario. My current 2017 Trek Fuel has the same reach and stack as the Druid. The top tube is 20 mm shorter on the small Druid and the wheelbase has a corresponding 18 mm smaller wheelbase and chainstay. The fork offset of the Trek is 51 mm. I'm hoping for something a bit more "playful" where I can whip it off jumps and easier to handle than being on the small limits of the medium. My Trek always felt bigger and harder to handle. From current riders do you find sizing down is better or up if you're between sizes? I'm mostly doing a combination of trail/XC here in southern Ontario but I do like some descending prowess. Enduro is where you might want something with a longer wheelbase correct? 
Anyhow, I'm still working on ordering components and haven't taken it out of the packaging yet. If anyone feels I'm making a crazy decision to size down instead of up I'd appreciate your input.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Cliff Clavin said:


> Thanks for your input on the sizing and fork selection. I actually got the small Druid as I'm at the upper end of the small at 5'6" to 5'7". As mentioned in my previous post I was not able to demo any sizes as there are no dealers in Ontario. My current 2017 Trek Fuel has the same reach and stack as the Druid. The top tube is 20 mm shorter on the small Druid and the wheelbase has a corresponding 18 mm smaller wheelbase and chainstay. The fork offset of the Trek is 51 mm. I'm hoping for something a bit more "playful" where I can whip it off jumps and easier to handle than being on the small limits of the medium. My Trek always felt bigger and harder to handle. From current riders do you find sizing down is better or up if you're between sizes? I'm mostly doing a combination of trail/XC here in southern Ontario but I do like some descending prowess. Enduro is where you might want something with a longer wheelbase correct?
> Anyhow, I'm still working on ordering components and haven't taken it out of the packaging yet. If anyone feels I'm m
> aking a crazy decision to size down instead of up I'd appreciate your input.


I'm 5'7" and I was tossing up between the medium and large. Unlike you I'm more on the enduro end of the scale. The medium is basically the same as my free ride bike for sizing. If you going for that bmx kind of feal or if xc riders normally size down? You May be OK


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

hey everyone. a few updates on my XT Druid (M) and a question for all you XT owners.

after four weeks of trying everything with my new 2021 Fox 36, I finally got it dialed! I ended up overhauling the fork. I am glad someone above recommended it. There were chunks of drying grease along the air shaft and the upper portion of the shaft was caked in old looking, brownish grease. Cleaned everything, applied new slick honey and replaced the oil. After I did that, I started the set up all over again. It went so much better. The Fox 36 may not have the super supple small bump sensitivity that other forks have, but I am really happy with it now for sure.

Now for the question: I am getting a lot of flex in the rear end. At first I thought it was because the wheel wasn't properly tensioned, but, no joke, Yoann Barelli(!) checked it out and said it seemed like loose pivots to him. (I don't know him, I just happened to run into him at the bottom of a trail and he wanted to check out the Druid.)









Anyway, I got home and checked all the pivots bolts. Everything is tight and torqued to spec. I also headed over to my friend's place. He has a Druid from the last batch (Moss Green, Medium too). The rear end is stiff and solid.

Is anyone with an XT having issues with rear end flex?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

you win this thread just because of the picture with yoann


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> hey everyone. a few updates on my XT Druid (M) and a question for all you XT owners.
> 
> after four weeks of trying everything with my new 2021 Fox 36, I finally got it dialed! I ended up overhauling the fork. I am glad someone above recommended it. There were chunks of drying grease along the air shaft and the upper portion of the shaft was caked in old looking, brownish grease. Cleaned everything, applied new slick honey and replaced the oil. After I did that, I started the set up all over again. It went so much better. The Fox 36 may not have the super supple small bump sensitivity that other forks have, but I am really happy with it now for sure.
> 
> ...


I hate to say it but you may have to strip the rear end down now too. You may be able to pin point the flex by holding each pivot one at a time and trying to flex the rear wheel. This is where a third hand comes in handy. Also if you have another rear wheel you can put on just too rule that out?


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## CCPHammer (May 12, 2007)

So did you go INTO THE GNAR?


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Yoann can buy any bike. I am zealous 

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> For the curious, I rode DH today at Mt. Bachelor which has fairly lava-rocky, rough terrain and a few flow trails with roots and rocks (Rattlesnake, Hot Dust, Cone Run, Big Wood). I rode the trails that were open but did about 7-9 runs with a Shock Wiz I rented on the 2021 Fox 36. I probably will do this again in a few weeks, to double check, but here are my fork settings info (rear is a 11-6 set to Push recommendation):
> 
> Rider weight ~188lbs with gear
> 1 token
> ...


185 lbs plus clothes and gear. 2019 Fox 36 GRIP2 at 150mm and running a Luftkappe.

I am pretty bang on for the Fox recommended settings:

90 PSI. 
No tokens (but Luftkappe is the equivalent of 1)
HSR - 4 from closed
LSR 5 from closed 
HSC - 10 From closed 
LSC - 6 from closed

I have ridden daily now almost 2 weeks in a row, after deciding to spend more time pedalling, and less behind the keyboard. My hands are no longer sore on even long rides, and I have found that the 36 fork and 11-6 shock perform better and better the harder you push them, which is exactly what I have been doing, now that I have upped my fitness level to where I was pre-Covid.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> 185 lbs plus clothes and gear. 2019 Fox 36 GRIP2 at 150mm and running a Luftkappe.
> 
> I am pretty bang on for the Fox recommended settings:
> 
> ...


It's interesting. I had to really drop my PSI to 77psi in order for me to plow through rough sections at speed on my ride last weekend. I am rebuilding my fork tonight, I'm suspecting that there may be some excess factory grease clogging my fork and affecting the performance.

That said, the fork did feel better matched to the 11-6. I'll update my fork settings once I get the rebuild completed.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> It's interesting. I had to really drop my PSI to 77psi in order for me to plow through rough sections at speed on my ride last weekend. I am rebuilding my fork tonight, I'm suspecting that there may be some excess factory grease clogging my fork and affecting the performance.
> 
> That said, the fork did feel better matched to the 11-6. I'll update my fork settings once I get the rebuild completed.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I was a little rushed when I posted above.

I also meant to add that the adjustments on the GRIP2, unlike forks I have had in the past, actually work. Fiddling with the buttons on the trail is a very satisfying experience. I can totally feel 1 or 2 clicks of LSC for example.

In the past, dialling in some forks has been like trying solve a Rubik's Cube. A tougher task than finding world peace. Not so with the 36 GRIP2. Not mine at least. I am enjoying fiddling with it and feeling the different effects. Lots of fun. I feel as though I have a bunch of different options at my disposal - all good, just different. And again - the adjustments actually work as advertised!

For those with sore hands, I have always been of the view that tokens, spacers or whatever you want to call them, are often the culprit. Try removing all but one. Or even all of them. Your fork won't turn to pixie dust and disappear. I promise. Why not give it a shot?

PS - I have bad carpal tunnel syndrome in my left hand from decades of playing the guitar and (ill advisedly) squeezing the neck like I was trying to choke a chicken. Hand pain is a continual thing I have learned to deal with.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Iamblichus said:


> hey everyone. a few updates on my XT Druid (M) and a question for all you XT owners.
> 
> after four weeks of trying everything with my new 2021 Fox 36, I finally got it dialed! I ended up overhauling the fork. I am glad someone above recommended it. There were chunks of drying grease along the air shaft and the upper portion of the shaft was caked in old looking, brownish grease. Cleaned everything, applied new slick honey and replaced the oil. After I did that, I started the set up all over again. It went so much better. The Fox 36 may not have the super supple small bump sensitivity that other forks have, but I am really happy with it now for sure.
> 
> ...


My rear axle came loose on 3-4th ride. My rear end very stiff. Check axle but that would be obvious cuz bike would start shifting weird. My 36 sucks too. Removed all the tokens and feels better. Probably have to open her up

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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

hey people! I'm looking at a druid as my next frame. anyone in the seattle area with a M that would be willing to let me ride it, I can provide tasty beverages and post ride food (and let you ride my fugitive while I try the druid).


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

jpec29 said:


> My rear axle came loose on 3-4th ride. My rear end very stiff. Check axle but that would be obvious cuz bike would start shifting weird. My 36 sucks too. Removed all the tokens and feels better. Probably have to open her up
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


My axle has come loose a few times also, despite being torqued to spec. The bike ends up feeling squirmy and there is some drivetrain noise/creaking when it gets loose. Took me a minute to figure it out the first time. I was usually noticing it at the end of rough descents. I contacted Forbidden and they were like...."that's possible, but not likely" and didn't have any suggestions about how to keep it tight.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

northerngnar said:


> My axle has come loose a few times also, despite being torqued to spec. The bike ends up feeling squirmy and there is some drivetrain noise/creaking when it gets loose. Took me a minute to figure it out the first time. I was usually noticing it at the end of rough descents. I contacted Forbidden and they were like...."that's possible, but not likely" and didn't have any suggestions about how to keep it tight.


Best thing I can think of is make sure there is no grease residue on the axel r the frame thread. Try that if you don't remove the rear wheel often, you can also try the smallest bit of lock tight/thread locker. Make sure you get the weakest one you can.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

pedrosalas7 said:


> hey people! I'm looking at a druid as my next frame. anyone in the seattle area with a M that would be willing to let me ride it, I can provide tasty beverages and post ride food (and let you ride my fugitive while I try the druid).


I'm over in Port Townsend and I'd be up for meeting up at Port Gamble or 360 Park sometime. Could also head out to Port Angeles and do a lap at Dry Hill. I almost bought a Fugitive LT once. Still curious to try it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> I'm over in Port Townsend and I'd be up for meeting up at Port Gamble or 360 Park sometime. Could also head out to Port Angeles and do a lap at Dry Hill. I almost bought a Fugitive LT once. Still curious to try it.


If you guys end up meeting up, please report back with a Druid vs. Fugitive LT head to head showdown report.

The late great Jerry M (aka TB, aka LB) who started this thread in the first place, compared the Druid vs. the Fugitive in post #38. He was a Fugitive convert through and through. I wouldn't have expected him to throw his new bike under the bus.

I'm going to take this opportunity to make a few more comments.

My experience with the Druid differs a little bit from that of some others on here. For example:

1. I still find it a little tougher to pull the front end up, compared to my other bikes.

2. I do not find it bobs when climbing. In fact, I leave my 11-6 in the "DH" position for climbing. I find it hugs the roots, rocks and other techy stuff beautifully when wide open. Zero efficiency issues for me. Then again, I steer clear of fire roads.

3. I am still unconvinced on the 11-6 vs the stock DPX2.

4. I notice no driveline drag.

5. It's the quietest bike I have owned.

6. The a$$ end of that bike is rock solid. No noticeable flex. No tire rub with a 2.4 DHR2.

7. I find the stack a tad low for my liking. I may throw a 35mm rise bar on to see what difference that makes.

I miss that DPX2. I may have to throw it back on to see what, if anything, I am missing.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Updates: Long post

Last time I posted, Yoann was checking out my Druid and I was asking about whether anyone was experiencing any flex in the rear end. 

A little background: I recently moved to a new city. I don’t really have a relationship with a LBS. When I thought that there may be something going on with my Druid, I wasn’t sure what to do. There are no Forbidden dealers here, and one shop I called had a 300 bike waitlist for work; one said they were not taking any bikes not purchased at the store, and one said that they have so many people waiting for service that they are just not taking any bikes until further notice.

When I was considering buying a Druid, I emailed Forbidden many times with questions. Every one of my emails was answered within hours. Louella, the customer experience coordinator, took the time to respond to each question, and she made me feel like my emails were important. So, I decided to email Louella (again!). I tried to explain what I thought I was experiencing. 

She emailed back and invited me to come to Cumberland. Forbidden offered to check out my Druid. Off I went, and from the moment I arrived the Forbidden Team was welcoming, friendly and hospitable. Owen Pemberton introduced himself and I explained to him what I was experiencing and when I was experiencing it. The bike went into the stand and Owen himself went over it answering every question I had and explaining the bike he designed as he worked. At several points, Logan Johns, the COO, and Owen were working on my Druid at the same time. 

Owen told me that the shock (dpx2) had an issue that may account for some of what I was feeling on technical climbs. He removed it, told me that it would need to be serviced, and then installed a loaner shock (a dpx2 from Logan’s bike!). He determined that the frame, the suspension system, the pivots…that all were in excellent structural order. My mind went immediately to: it must be the rear wheel I was feeling. This he and Logan checked and tested rather thoroughly. It was fine. Owen then explained how and why the wheel that I was convinced was flexing was in fact doing what it was designed to do. 

Aside: I am a pretty serious cyclist, but I have spent the large majority of the last 10+ years riding road and gravel, not mountain. For some time now, all my wheelsets have been carbon. This may explain why the XT spec’d alloy wheels felt different (i.e. flexy) to me. 

A couple hours after I arrived, three members of the Forbidden Team took me out to ride their local trails. It was a blast. 

This was for sure one of the best MTB experiences I have had. Not only has Forbidden brought an amazing bike to market, they are an amazing bunch of people. They are probably lucky I don’t live there. I’d be that guy coming by the shop all the time asking ‘hey, anyone want to ride?’


@mtnbikebike:
I put a 35mm rise bar on my Druid. Loving it.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> Updates: Long post
> 
> Last time I posted, Yoann was checking out my Druid and I was asking about whether anyone was experiencing any flex in the rear end.
> 
> ...


That's awesome, almost a money can't buy experiance


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Iamblichus said:


> Updates: Long post
> 
> Last time I posted, Yoann was checking out my Druid and I was asking about whether anyone was experiencing any flex in the rear end.
> 
> ...


One of the most incredibly awesome things I have ever read at this site. Thanks for taking the time to post that.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> Updates: Long post
> 
> Last time I posted, Yoann was checking out my Druid and I was asking about whether anyone was experiencing any flex in the rear end.
> 
> ...


Forgot to ask, did the new dpx2 make it feal better?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

And did you get any insider info on the long travel version coming out?

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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

jpec29 said:


> And did you get any insider info on the long travel version coming out?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


No real insider intel unfortunately. I know that they're currently working on it. I did learn that Ziggy links are due in early August. And the Cosmic Eggplant frames are in fact coming soon. I fn love the color!


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

I've seen the first cosmic eggplant builds popping up on instagram, got confirmation from Fanatik they'll be applying RideWrap to mine starting Monday, so will finally have a Druid in my hands soon.


e: Just saw Lewis Buchanan got a new Cosmic Eggplant frame in too


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Speaking of Cosmic Eggplant...


__
http://instagr.am/p/CDB5OgxJBFY/

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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Wander512 said:


> I've seen the first cosmic eggplant builds popping up on instagram, got confirmation from Fanatik they'll be applying RideWrap to mine starting Monday, so will finally have a Druid in my hands soon.
> 
> e: Just saw Lewis Buchanan got a new Cosmic Eggplant frame in too


Ah, beat me to it

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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Hi, I am getting a large Druid frame in the next couple of days hopefully and was wondering how many links people are using on the chain, will be running 30 tooth front with 46 max at the back, getting the Cosmic eggplant,


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> If you guys end up meeting up, please report back with a Druid vs. Fugitive LT head to head showdown report.
> 
> The late great Jerry M (aka TB, aka LB) who started this thread in the first place, compared the Druid vs. the Fugitive in post #38. He was a Fugitive convert through and through. I wouldn't have expected him to throw his new bike under the bus.
> 
> ...


Will for sure! Though I'm coming at it from the opposite direction now. I am a total convert to this bike. The suspension is so good for going fast in the rough! Helps that the sizing just works. After going extreme for my height with 485mm reach, I've finally worked my way back down to something I'm comfortable on.

I do have a 35mm Oneup riser bar and a tall Cane Creek headset cap under it and the stack is good for me. I can unweight the front even in pretty steep stuff. And those Oneup bars are really nice.

Good to hear on the 11-6. I was planning on an EXT but decided to wait after riding the stock shock.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Hi all.

Can anyone comment on how they feel the bike pedals? 

im currently riding a yeti sb150 and im close to putting a deposit down on a frame for when the long travel druid comes out. my local bike shop was basically saying that they feel as though you wont beat the 150 for pedalling performance, but the long travel druid will be next level when it comes out for going down hill.

so ive got the pedalling performance in mind, plus trying to get my head around if the new druid will be too much bike. my theory is that its better to be over biked than under biked.

thanks in advance.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Hi, I am getting a large Druid frame in the next couple of days hopefully and was wondering how many links people are using on the chain, will be running 30 tooth front with 46 max at the back, getting the Cosmic eggplant,


If you're running a 46T max rear cog, then you shouldn't need extra links. I have 30T front and max 51T rear and I added 2 links.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Can anyone comment on how they feel the bike pedals?
> 
> ...


As far as pedaling goes, the Druid is probably the best climber I've ever thrown a leg over - _on singletrack_. My climbs all have some sort of root and/or rock along their length, and the points in-between consist of loose-over-hardpack trail. The amount of climbing traction on tap with the Druid is impressive, to the point where I am rolling with a faster / less aggressive rear tire. When I'm climbing on smooth terrain [i.e. roads], the extra traction sometimes translates to a _feeling_ of drag, but it doesn't show up in the ride times.

After watching Youtuber BCPOV ride his Druid all over the Whistler Bike Park, on the same trails that I usually use a DH bike for, I am VERY interested in the new Forbidden bike. One bike to rule them all?


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

pinkrobe said:


> If you're running a 46T max rear cog, then you shouldn't need extra links. I have 30T front and max 51T rear and I added 2 links.


Cheers.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> If you're running a 46T max rear cog, then you shouldn't need extra links. I have 30T front and max 51T rear and I added 2 links.


I'm 32t-10/50 size Large and my shop didn't add any links to the XX1 chain I purchased.

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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> As far as pedaling goes, the Druid is probably the best climber I've ever thrown a leg over - _on singletrack_. My climbs all have some sort of root and/or rock along their length, and the points in-between consist of loose-over-hardpack trail. The amount of climbing traction on tap with the Druid is impressive, to the point where I am rolling with a faster / less aggressive rear tire. When I'm climbing on smooth terrain [i.e. roads], the extra traction sometimes translates to a _feeling_ of drag, but it doesn't show up in the ride times.
> 
> After watching Youtuber BCPOV ride his Druid all over the Whistler Bike Park, on the same trails that I usually use a DH bike for, I am VERY interested in the new Forbidden bike. One bike to rule them all?


the reviews certainly seem that way. so when they make a burlier, slacker, more travel druid - its got me very close to pulling the trigger to reserve a frame.

my thought process is that for the majority of trails i ride the bike will be too big. however that other %15 of the time it will be perfect. ie the one bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Can anyone comment on how they feel the bike pedals?
> 
> ...


I sense that the yet to be released longer travel Forbidden may feel kinda similar to my old 2015 Owen Pemberton designed 160/160 Norco Range (except that it will have more modern geo). His bikes have had the same kinda mojo going on.

My Range weighed 27.5 lbs with Minions and pedals. It was a solid climber and a very plush straightliner. Significant AS (to the point the shock extended under load) and a rearward travel axle path, similar to the Druid, except that the Druid does not of course have the pedal kickback that some (not me) complained about with the Range.

I expect the longer travel Forbidden will be all this, minus the pedal kickback, due of course to the high pivot/pulley.

I think the only real question will be whether you are prepared to feel a little disconnected, especially on tamer terrain. That, and the pedal kickback comment, were the primary complaints of those who were not enamoured with the Range.

I expect this new bike will be a rocket, and will climb really well in technical terrain, but may make tamer terrain feel a little too...tame.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I sense that the yet to be released longer travel Forbidden may feel kinda similar to my old 2015 Owen Pemberton designed 160/160 Norco Range (except that it will have more modern geo). His bikes have had the same kinda mojo going on.
> 
> My Range weighed 27.5 lbs with Minions and pedals. It was a solid climber and a very plush straightliner. Significant AS (to the point the shock extended under load) and a rearward travel axle path, similar to the Druid, except that the Druid does not of course have the pedal kickback that some (not me) complained about with the Range.
> 
> ...


does anyone see any risk in getting a 1st release bike from them? the only thing im going on is the great reviews for their druid and how it would apply to a bigger bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> does anyone see any risk in getting a 1st release bike from them? the only thing im going on is the great reviews for their druid and how it would apply to a bigger bike.


Less risk than was the case with the Druid. I think Forbidden learned quite a bit from the Druid that will carry over to the new bike.

That would not be an issue for me, although I am not the right guy to ask seeing as though I threw down on their first bike ever, on its initial release.

Again, for me, the only real issue is whether it will be a less fun bike on the tamer stuff than the Druid. I have to think the answer to this may be yes, but that is largely personal and will vary from one rider to the next. On any given ride, I am liable to see anything from rigid single speeds, to long travel enduro sleds on the same trail. Everyone is different. Do you wish for more or less travel when you are out riding on your current bike?

After giving that some good thought, the next question is, realistically, what kind of terrain are you going to be using this bike for? If you've already concluded that the Druid would be a good (or even the better) bike for 85% of your riding, and if you are the kind of rider who feels disconnected from the trail on a longer travel bike, then maybe the longer travel Forbidden not the best choice.

It may be designed based partly on witchcraft, with a generous sprinkling of magic dust and dried unicorn poop in the top tube, but with any bike, including the new bike from Forbidden, it's still going to be a zero sum game, with give and take on everything, and decisions having to be made on what is optimal.

It's fun to talk about stuff like this and I don't mean to discourage you from doing so, but in the end, I don't think you are going to get some definitive answer from any of us that you will be able to rely on. I have now owned 3 of Owen's creations and I am still going through the same thought process I outlined above. I am not sure what I am going to do yet myself. Until you throw a leg over both, discussions in the abstract will remain exactly that. Just be thankful there are full bike builds now. Relative to what I have sunk into my Druid, they are pretty much giving away the components strapped onto the frame.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> the reviews certainly seem that way. so when they make a burlier, slacker, more travel druid - its got me very close to pulling the trigger to reserve a frame.
> 
> my thought process is that for the majority of trails i ride the bike will be too big. however that other %15 of the time it will be perfect. ie the one bike.


Yeah, that's the problem - how overbiked are you willing to be for the majority of your rides? I've shifted my trail selection a bit to increase the number of more difficult trails that I ride, so I'm overbiked less. When I'm on easier trails, I try to push things a bit, like turning rollers into jumps, taking the Worst Line Possible for s&g, etc. The Forbidden Pagan [that's what I'm calling the LT Druid until they figure out a name] would push me to spend even more time on more challenging trails. I'd probably be able to sell my DH bike and the Druid to get a Pagan, and maybe I'd use my hardtail more? Dunno...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> ...I'd probably be able to sell my DH bike and the Druid to get a Pagan, and maybe I'd use my hardtail more? Dunno...


This is PRECISELY where I am at. Including the hardtail piece you mentioned. The only thing I am struggling with is after spending so much time and cash to build the Druid, I hate to part with it, regardless of how versatile the Pagan may be.

EDIT: Just got back from a ride. That Druid is going nowhere, regardless of whether a Pagan is in the cards.

I learned one thing today - just like guitar amplifiers, never be afraid to twist the knobs to extremes to see what lies there.

HSC on the GRIP2 wide open - holy crap. I still need about 5 clicks of LSC to avoid diving during bermed cornering, but opening up HSC (and, to a lesser degree, high and low speed rebound) really helped out in the plushness. I was so stoked that I completely forgot to take the 11-6 out of climb mode for the entire ride. I suspect Fox's recommended settings may be for Richie Rude.

*Question for 11-6 owners - short of taking things apart, how do you get at the rebound dial? Are you able to with no disassembly? *I'd like to try more wide open HSC and faster rebound...


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Less risk than was the case with the Druid. I think Forbidden learned quite a bit from the Druid that will carry over to the new bike.
> 
> That would not be an issue for me, although I am not the right guy to ask seeing as though I threw down on their first bike ever, on its initial release.
> 
> ...


all very good points.

yeah im not looking for a definitive answer - im just making sure im covering all the angles.

im leaning towards doing the bigger druid. when i do ride rowdier stuff - it is frikken rowdy. double black tech etc and almost always shuttle.

i dont really mind how long it takes ti get up hill within reason. its all about the down for me.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

You guys really have no ideas for improvement on the Druid, like a wishlist for V2, that might be introduced on a new model?

- Some sort of larger coverage mudguard for the rear to keep debris out of the tight spots?

- Better stock rear shock tune that's so good that it might make one not see much need to upgrade?

- Maybe a better solution to the chain rub on the protector? (new swingarm design should fix it)

- Long travel dropper compatibility? (OneUp TwoTen on even a size med?)

- Storage solutions? (Is SWAT patented or something)

- More standover clearance? (I had Super V lust back in the day)

- Any fitment or modern geo wants?

I have a mid-foot pedal placement, which makes STAs feel like 5 degrees slacker, so a conservative STA is a deal-breaker to me. I also see lower BBs as being a thing, enabled by shorter cranks (150-160mm?). And I'd like to see the space between the BB and front tire utilized for anything--any extra weight there should add to the bike's stability, like storage.

I figure they'd make a bike they want to ride. What's trendy around their neck of the woods that might be inspiring? Has to be something that sells, so probably not freeride, cause I get the impression that freeriders don't buy big $$$ bikes. Enduro market kind of saturated. Not many North American brands doing enduro eMTBs with good geo, but it seems like it'd need a ton of development time.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Varaxis said:


> You guys really have no ideas for improvement on the Druid, like a wishlist for V2, that might be introduced on a new model?
> 
> - Some sort of larger coverage mudguard for the rear to keep debris out of the tight spots?
> 
> ...


Correct me if I'm wrong but, 
They just changed the tune on the dpx2 on the 2021 model, to be a lighter tune, should feel more like a coil. Not to mention the design of the dpx2 has changed as well so now it won't feal so wooden.

Also there is frame storage under the downtube cover... Or are you. Meaning somthing else.

Defs need to sort out the mudguard though


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Varaxis said:


> You guys really have no ideas for improvement on the Druid, like a wishlist for V2, that might be introduced on a new model?
> 
> - Some sort of larger coverage mudguard for the rear to keep debris out of the tight spots?
> 
> ...


Stock tune on the DPX2 was spot on (as was the sock shock spec), and this coming from a guy running an 11-6 now.

There is a reverse SWAT box of sorts behind the down tube protector. Forbidden does not advertise it as such but the guys in the initial PB review were all over it. I use it for a tube, levers and a few other things but I would not want to be accessing it often for fear of stripping the delicate feeling screws holding it on. My local Forbidden dealer is not a fan of using that cavity as a SWAT box. So yeah - an easier access, purpose built SWAT box might be a nice revision.

I think they could try to do something to avoid rock damage between the seat tube and seat stays. I'm using moto foam. There were reports of some who sustained damage early on. Glad I wasn't one of them.

I wouldn't mind a slightly higher stack.

The chain rubbing on the chain stay protector in 12th gear doesn't bother me in the slightest (although I did pick up a replacement chain stay protector from Forbidden for $9.99 in case I want to replace it at some point).

The design of the shock with the stanchion buried in the frame can present certain challenges. Most recently, I can't get at the rebound dial on my 11-6 without taking the rear wheel off.

I pooched the original idler, had it rebuilt, and then got a V2 replacement idler. Same with the suspension link - replaced with a V2 version. Time will tell how these hold up, and what else may need replacement with a V2 version.

I am thinking hard of suggested revisions and am not coming up with much. I will come back and edit this post if I think of anything else. IMHO, these guys pretty much nailed it on the first attempt.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Alanc12 said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong but,
> They just changed the tune on the dpx2 on the 2021 model, to be a lighter tune, should feel more like a coil. Not to mention the design of the dpx2 has changed as well so now it won't feal so wooden.
> 
> Also there is frame storage under the downtube cover... Or are you. Meaning somthing else.
> ...


I was thinking that since no one uses a bottle under the downtube, can have the downtube occupy more of that space for even more storage, and give easier access. Like a door that allowed you to secure things to it so it didn't rattle, like a pump. Could also make room to mount the shock lower, for increased long dropper seatpost insertion clearance. All the weight in that area adds to stability, which is so easily carried that the bike betrays its weight #s.

Haven't really kept up with what people put in there. I'm imagining some integration of hydration bladder in there, with baffles to minimize sloshing, on bikes of the future. Or something like the Honda RN-01, which squeezed a big gearbox in front of its BB with a downtube that wrapped around it. Shimano has a detailed gearbox patent... I'd say something about the shock placement, but better for the heavier parts to be low and center.



mtnbkrmike said:


> My local Forbidden dealer is not a fan of using that cavity as a SWAT box. So yeah - an easier access, purpose built SWAT box might be a nice revision.



Well, I guess the storage solution could just be a sleek external add-on with a new quick release connection method. Something that could take some impacts and something you wouldn't mind being caked in muck. SWAT puts stuff all over the bike, like in the steerer tube. Just seems like that spot in front of the BB, under the downtube, has been naked, reduced to catching whatever the front tire flings at it.

Does anyone get bothered by the rear braking characteristics (with how the rear squats)? Pushing the pivot forward would bring it closer to other bikes. I figure people might actually prefer it once they get used to it, and not want it to be changed.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Varaxis said:


> You guys really have no ideas for improvement on the Druid, like a wishlist for V2, that might be introduced on a new model?
> 
> - Some sort of larger coverage mudguard for the rear to keep debris out of the tight spots?
> 
> ...


None of what you mentioned is a deal-breaker, at least for me. That said, I'm a fairly average guy in terms of height and weight, with maybe slightly longer limbs than average - I'm on a large with a 210mm dropper. It's a new bike, and a great debut at that. As you mention, they made a bike that they want to ride. It's also one that they believe will sell. The market for them is going to be BC and PNW riders [and those with similar terrain around the world]. That's a good place to be for a small company. Case in point - Banshee has been mining that seam for a long time. Regardless, FBC will hopefully apply what they learned from the Druid and apply it to the Pagan. I just hope they don't go too far down the rabbit hole and end up with a Grim Donut.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Varaxis said:


> ...Does anyone get bothered by the rear braking characteristics (with how the rear squats)? Pushing the pivot forward would bring it closer to other bikes. I figure people might actually prefer it once they get used to it, and not want it to be changed.


Not me. I am used to this characteristic from prior bikes. In my view, it's optimal as is for descending super steep drops. Predictable and consistent. Low center of gravity.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

@alanc12

It feels different, surprisingly different considering that they are almost the same shock. The dpx2 Forbidden loaned me is from the previous Druid spec. If I remember rightly, it has a light tune and the dpx2 from the XT/SLX/new color frames comes with an extra light tune.

The one I was loaned does not feel quite as supple as the extra light dpx2. That may be because I am running more air pressure now. With the original shock, I was running 19mm of sag at 47psi. With the loaner, I am running almost 10psi more (56psi) to hit the 19mm sag. I seem to be using less of the travel now. 

I am unsure whether I should lower the pressure and go over the 17-19mm sag recommendation. Or maybe take out the volume spacer to see what happens. I may have some time to experiment later today.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> @alanc12
> 
> It feels different, surprisingly different considering that they are almost the same shock. The dpx2 Forbidden loaned me is from the previous Druid spec. If I remember rightly, it has a light tune and the dpx2 from the XT/SLX/new color frames comes with an extra light tune.
> 
> ...


Yea from memory they changed the design of the base valve and now have dedicated compression circuitry, where as before I'm pretty sure everything had to go back through the base valve which was a major Limiting factor. And along with the new tune it should be a much better fit.

I was all. About getting a coil from the get go but now they have done this new shock design and tune, I may just leave it for abit. 
Ild love to hear how it feals when you get it back. 
I have read some reviews where they feel better at 35% sag, but it all comes down to personal preference.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Yea from memory they changed the design of the base valve and now have dedicated compression circuitry, where as before I'm pretty sure everything had to go back through the base valve which was a major Limiting factor. And along with the new tune it should be a much better fit.
> 
> I was all. About getting a coil from the get go but now they have done this new shock design and tune, I may just leave it for abit.
> Ild love to hear how it feals when you get it back.
> I have read some reviews where they feel better at 35% sag, but it all comes down to personal preference.


Don't think a coil upgrade is really needed on this bike unless you got money burning a whole in your pocket. Plus you just adding weight for little performance gain imho. I got their XT build and the rear suspension feels great, I'm running 35% sag. No pedal strikes, and pedal platform is firm like dw link bike but way more plush on the down's and no pedal kick back. Plus my fork feels terrible, glad I didn't spend cash on coil for I can put the money in the fork now lol.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Don't think a coil upgrade is really needed on this bike unless you got money burning a whole in your pocket. Plus you just adding weight for little performance gain imho. I got their XT build and the rear suspension feels great, I'm running 35% sag. No pedal strikes, and pedal platform is firm like dw link bike but way more plush on the down's and no pedal kick back. Plus my fork feels terrible, glad I didn't spend cash on coil for I can put the money in the fork now lol.


Funny you mention the fork, Im looking at a custom build and am now looking to get a marzocchi coil fork put on instead of the newest fox 36. I normally run my compression settings wide open so no issues having minimal dials.. Also in my eyes, theres no benefit to having the new 36 lowers if you are going to go coil fork.

Also saves some money for other parts.


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Don't think a coil upgrade is really needed on this bike unless you got money burning a whole in your pocket. Plus you just adding weight for little performance gain imho. I got their XT build and the rear suspension feels great, I'm running 35% sag. No pedal strikes, and pedal platform is firm like dw link bike but way more plush on the down's and no pedal kick back. Plus my fork feels terrible, glad I didn't spend cash on coil for I can put the money in the fork now lol.


I don't have my druid yet but part of my desire for coil was the orange fox spring looks awesome with cosmic eggplant. But it is sounding like I'll be getting a Luftkappe for my '19 36 first instead. Any other fork upgrades worth looking at?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Funny you mention the fork, Im looking at a custom build and am now looking to get a marzocchi coil fork put on instead of the newest fox 36. I normally run my compression settings wide open so no issues having minimal dials.. Also in my eyes, theres no benefit to having the new 36 lowers if you are going to go coil fork.
> 
> Also saves some money for other parts.


Yes I like your thinking. Thinking I might do the vorspung coil if I can get this 36 to work soon

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wander512 said:


> I don't have my druid yet but part of my desire for coil was the orange fox spring looks awesome with cosmic eggplant. But it is sounding like I'll be getting a Luftkappe for my '19 36 first instead. Any other fork upgrades worth looking at?


Are you running a FIT4 or GRIP2 damper? What is the travel?

Personally I would go GRIP2 and 150mm.

I am not as enamoured with coil as others. The problem with coil is that you better nail your spring weight because there is no adjustment for that except a new coil (and the possible inability to revert to air on a coil conversion).

I just can't get over the fact that I paid a ton for a fork that will be converted to something that seems to me will be the equivalent of an ooooooooold Fox Van 36 coil fork.

All that said, I may go the Vorsprung coil conversion route next year though. LOL.


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Are you running a FIT4 or GRIP2 damper? What is the travel?
> 
> Personally I would go GRIP2 and 150mm.
> 
> I am not as enamoured with coil as others. The problem with coil is that you better nail your spring weight because there is no adjustment for that except a new coil (and the possible inability to revert to air on a coil conversion). No big deal if that's not an issue. It is for me.


I'll be bringing over a '19 GRIP2 150mm 36, (crossing my fingers I've got enough steerer considering the XL's enormous headtube, but got a low-stack stem so should be OK) I've got a ShockWiz to play with too. Did you ride your druid before installing the luftkappe?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wander512 said:


> I'll be bringing over a '19 GRIP2 150mm 36, (crossing my fingers I've got enough steerer considering the XL's enormous headtube, but got a low-stack stem so should be OK) I've got a ShockWiz to play with too. Did you ride your druid before installing the luftkappe?


Yes I did. I rode it all last season with a FIT4 and no Luftkappe. I installed the GRIP2 and Luftkappe over the winter and have been riding that configuration ever since. I also replaced the stock DPX2 with the 11-6 at the same time.

If I may add to my comments above, one thing I DO NOT like about anything air sprung is the inconsistency with it (perceived or actual). One day I rip, the next I am wondering how to tweak things so I can rip as fast as the day before. Maybe it's just how much sleep I got the night before. Who knows.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Yes I like your thinking. Thinking I might do the vorspung coil if I can get this 36 to work soon
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


yea i think its the way to go aye, my fox 36 factory fork with luftkappe is super plush and feals amazing until you feal a coil fork. for me the weight is not an issue (too a point)

My plan was to got red lowers with the purple frame. think it would look soo good. possibly a red coil shock in the future too.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Random question. Not sure if anyone has poked at Forbidden about doing a "LR" version yet. Has anyone tried increasing the stroke to 57.5mm/60mm? 135mm/141mm of rear travel.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Random question. Not sure if anyone has poked at Forbidden about doing a "LR" version yet. Has anyone tried increasing the stroke to 57.5mm/60mm? 135mm/141mm of rear travel.


I'm 100% down with that, I'm not sure how keen forbidden would be as they don't even allow a 160mn fork. Voids warrenty


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> I'm 100% down with that, I'm not sure how keen forbidden would be as they don't even allow a 160mn fork. Voids warrenty


It's known they're working on an official LT bike, but also people in this thread using longer stroke shocks paired with longer forks (against warranty)


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Random question. Not sure if anyone has poked at Forbidden about doing a "LR" version yet. Has anyone tried increasing the stroke to 57.5mm/60mm? 135mm/141mm of rear travel.


My X2 shock that came on the frame when I bought it new is stroked to 134mm. I didn't do the work so don't have much in the way of details but I've put quite a few miles on it in the past month since the bike has been built up. I can't compare to stock because I have never ridden the bike in that config.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> My X2 shock that came on the frame when I bought it new is stroked to 134mm. I didn't do the work so don't have much in the way of details but I've put quite a few miles on it in the past month since the bike has been built up. I can't compare to stock because I have never ridden the bike in that config.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting would love to long shock my druid. Know the specs on the shock?


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Wander512 said:


> It's known they're working on an official LT bike, but also people in this thread using longer stroke shocks paired with longer forks (against warranty)


Yeah, I've been on the 150/130 with no issues so far. More or less just curious how the bike would do with just a little more. I'm sure they are making a big 160/170 travel bike, but personally I'm not interested in that. I rode the new 2020 Enduro......way to much bike.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

jpec29 said:


> Interesting would love to long shock my druid. Know the specs on the shock?


Sorry, I meant to say when I bought the frame USED. I don't know much about it, he just told me that his mechanic did it custom and that the shock is about 210/57 rather than the 210/55 that comes stock.

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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Funny this should come up today. I just received my offset bushings yesterday. I am going to experiment with a 216x63. With offset bushings it will be a 212x63. Hopefully giving me 148mm rear travel. I've checked the clearances but wont know for sure till I cycle the shock. And who knows if the kinematics will give me good travel at the end. Gonna experiment with keeping the same sag percent or the same sag height and just more travel at the end. I did find that Ohlins makes a 210x60 coil (and others can be done custom) but decided to go big! I bought the frame used, so no warranty.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

krylon1892 said:


> Funny this should come up today. I just received my offset bushings yesterday. I am going to experiment with a 216x63. With offset bushings it will be a 212x63. Hopefully giving me 148mm rear travel. I've checked the clearances but wont know for sure till I cycle the shock. And who knows if the kinematics will give me good travel at the end. Gonna experiment with keeping the same sag percent or the same sag height and just more travel at the end. I did find that Ohlins makes a 210x60 coil (and others can be done custom) but decided to go big! I bought the frame used, so no warranty.


haha interesting! Keep us posted.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> Funny this should come up today. I just received my offset bushings yesterday. I am going to experiment with a 216x63. With offset bushings it will be a 212x63. Hopefully giving me 148mm rear travel. I've checked the clearances but wont know for sure till I cycle the shock. And who knows if the kinematics will give me good travel at the end. Gonna experiment with keeping the same sag percent or the same sag height and just more travel at the end. I did find that Ohlins makes a 210x60 coil (and others can be done custom) but decided to go big! I bought the frame used, so no warranty.


I have the Forbidden Druid on my list, it's in the #2 spot. If I can make it a 130/150 and 150/160 in the same frame. It will move spots. Please let us know.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> I have the Forbidden Druid on my list, it's in the #2 spot. If I can make it a 130/150 and 150/160 in the same frame. It will move spots. Please let us know.


You have to share with us what is in the #1 position. Something from Canfield Bros?


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> You have to share with us what is in the #1 position. Something from Canfield Bros?


Haha, yeah. They'll put out a 29er soon. IMHO Canfield and Forbidden have nailed an efficient yet active suspension, and geo that suits shorter people like myself.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> Haha, yeah. They'll put out a 29er soon. IMHO Canfield and Forbidden have nailed an efficient yet active suspension, and geo that suits shorter people like myself.


Hahaha. Knew it!

Efficient yet active. I couldn't agree more. I have read of some in this thread who have commented that the Druid bobs when climbing. Mine doesn't. Mine is so efficient that I wasted money buying a 2 circuit 11-6. The down mode is all I basically use. For everything.

Looking forward to having you onboard some day, and hearing your thoughts on all things Druid.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Hahaha. Knew it!
> 
> Efficient yet active. I couldn't agree more. I have read of some in this thread who have commented that the Druid bobs when climbing. Mine doesn't. Mine is so efficient that I wasted money buying a 2 circuit 11-6. The down mode is all I basically use. For everything.
> 
> Looking forward to having you onboard some day, and hearing your thoughts on all things Druid.


I got the chance to throw a leg over a medium druid. Fit perfectly. And I tested a bunch of bikes and non rode like my Riot. The Druid pedals through chunk great. Most DW and VPP hand up too much for my taste. I'm definitely a CB fan boy. But if the geo doesn't work. And especially if long shocking for bike trips works. I'll join the clan.

Some shock movement doesn't mean that the suspension isn't efficient.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

krylon1892 said:


> Funny this should come up today. I just received my offset bushings yesterday. I am going to experiment with a 216x63. With offset bushings it will be a 212x63. Hopefully giving me 148mm rear travel. I've checked the clearances but wont know for sure till I cycle the shock. And who knows if the kinematics will give me good travel at the end. Gonna experiment with keeping the same sag percent or the same sag height and just more travel at the end. I did find that Ohlins makes a 210x60 coil (and others can be done custom) but decided to go big! I bought the frame used, so no warranty.


You didn't say which shock you're using so remember to pull off the bottom out bumper (if using a fox coil) or compensate for the extra travel through bottom out (if using an air shock with a hidden bottom out bumper) when checking clearances at full travel. I'm definitely interested to learn what you find out.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

*Initial Experience on the Druid*

Firstly I wanted to thank-you for the content in this thread. I've read through all the messages in helping me make a decision on the purchase of a Druid.

I'm 5'9" and was considering a medium, but they were sold out. The numbers for the large seemed close to what I was looking for but was scared to go for it considering this was going to be a lot more bike than my medium 27.5 wheeled Kona Process 153. I decided to demo a large Norco Sight and found that I was comfortable on a larger frame with similar numbers to the large Druid. The Sight was a great bike btw and it was a tough call to not to take it home from the demo day.

I few weeks back I received my large Druid XT build. I rode it with the stock 50mm stem for 6 or so rides and then decided to try a 35mm, which will be how I'll keep it. I've now install a 3rd volume spacer in the Fox 36 and the 1.02 spacer in the dpx2 shock. I only have a couple rides with this setup, but I've found I was able to lower the pressure and reduced the number of bottom outs. I feel the fork bottoming out, but never the rear.

I ride in the Victoria area and was into trials and freeride back in the late 90s and early 2000s. I still ride a little old school and enjoy the tech trails with drops up to 6ft or so. This bike handles this type of riding well I've never felt underbiked. When things get fast you get this weightless sensation where you just pump through berms and off rocks. I'd say it is poppy with fast rebound settings. It eats up fast rough sections of trail like a 70s Cadillac over a washboard road. It's just easy to get along with and I haven't found the point where the bike is out of its element. I've come off a 2016 160/153 Kona Process (with Vorsprung's Luftkappe in a Pike and DBair IL shock) and feel more confident riding the Druid.

Climbing is really amazing on Druid. Technical climbing is often used to describe the riding here in Victoria and the Process did a great job, but this Druid is on a whole other level. It's not the speed you can maintain because I don't think it's a rocket uphill. It's just way more comfortable to climb and is almost a relaxing experience compared to the Process. Then there is the steep climbing ability which is ridiculous. I'm climbing walk-ups and slabs that I've never been able to. It must be the seat tube angle, longer stays, and suspension. Any negative that comes with a longer bike is really an easy trade off for the climbing ability and stability at high speeds.

Other commenters noted flex in the rear. The front triangle and 36 are stiff and solid feeling. The rear does have flex that I notice when I'm hard on the pedals standing and nearly at a standstill. I've also noticed it when going slow on angled rocks that try to push you off the trail sideways, so I'd say it's more of a twist of the swing arm. This rare event tends to help the bike negotiate the features so I can't say it's a negative. It does feel strange and I never noticed it on my Kona. It could be the 29" aluminum rim, but it's more likely the single pivot combined with longer stays.

A few more notes on my experience with the build:

⁃ The DPX2 was making in sucking sounds initially but this stopped when I installed the 1.02 spacer. I lost a couple drips of oil, so I'm thinking there was too much oil in shock.

⁃ 2021 Fox 36 is a different experience than my 2016 Pike with luftkappe installed. The Pike seems more predictable through the travel, where the 36 is firmer off the top yet slamms through the travel and bottoms out hard. I was having hand pain with the 36 and tried a couple different grips, which definitely helped. New grips, lowering pressure, adding a spacer, and reducing HSC has solved the hand problem. I'm still bottoming out on the bigger drops, so I might try adding back some air and a few clicks of HSC. I'm happy with it, but I'd say I'm still surprised it's not better. I'm sure I'll find some setting that'll work, but it's a work in progress and I like to tinker so this is not big issue for me.

⁃ XT drivetrain has been great. The B-screw isn't adjusted as shimano recommends because the chain was slipping on the smallest cog. However, the shifting is great and seems to improve more as everything breaks in. Wouldn't go back to GX unless I was forced.

⁃ Very happy with the XT brakes. Any worries I had with the smaller 180 rotor up front was for nothing. Great braking power!

⁃ Seat post has been perfect. It was a little damaged in shipping so I had to align the cable attachment on the bottom of the post. I find this post very smooth with easy lever action. FYI- I'm coming off a KS Lev that I'd rebuilt a few times, but generally had trouble free operation for 4 years.

⁃ My butt doesn't get along with the SDG saddle. Any ride more than 2 hours results in a 2 day mandatory resting period. Cromag trail master is in my future.

⁃ You need to install moto foam (as suggested in this thread) between the seat tube and the rear swing arm because rocks do wreak havoc to the paint. This happened on my second ride and is upsetting to say the least.

⁃ Installed Ride Wrap and it works great. It sure makes cleaning the bike a pleasure. The 5hrs it took to get it on was a painful process though.

Additional info:
⁃ 5'9" with a riding weight is 200lbs and the bike is at 35lbs (includes pedals, water, and storage.)
⁃ Fox 36 - 95psi HSR+4 LSR+5 HSC+3 LSC+14 - 3 volume spacers
⁃ DPX2 - 180psi R+10 C-Open - 1.02 volume spacer
⁃ 270km so far on the Druid.

I used to cart around a 40lb + freeride bike and was all about the down, but these days I like going 100% on the ups and 90% on the downs. This philosophy keeps me rubber side down and riding more often. The Druid has been a great fit for my first foray into a "Trail" segment of bikes. I just don't see the need for more bike when I'm still trying to find the limits with the Druid. I'd just get myself into more trouble with a longer travel version of this bike. For those familiar with the Mt. Work area, I ride everything there without concern for damaging the bike or getting thrown off because of limitations in travel. I don't think I'd use it as a park bike because it's just too pretty right now, but I have no doubt it'd be up for the task.

Keep the thread going and I'll update as I get more miles on it.

Thanks again,

Mike


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Firstly I wanted to thank-you for the content in this thread. I've read through all the messages in helping me make a decision on the purchase of a Druid.
> 
> I'm 5'9" and was considering a medium, but they were sold out. The numbers for the large seemed close to what I was looking for but was scared to go for it considering this was going to be a lot more bike than my medium 27.5 wheeled Kona Process 153. I decided to demo a large Norco Sight and found that I was comfortable on a larger frame with similar numbers to the large Druid. The Sight was a great bike btw and it was a tough call to not to take it home from the demo day.
> 
> ...


What you're describing with the tech climbing is what I call efficient yet active. A lot of bikes hand up when climbing tech, that do great on fire roads. You still want the suspension to work not turn into a hardtail when pedaling.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> What you're describing with the tech climbing is what I call efficient yet active. A lot of bikes hand up when climbing tech, that do great on fire roads. You still want the suspension to work not turn into a hardtail when pedaling.


Exactly. I tried to explain this to Suspensionwerx more than once yet I still got a second circuit on my 11-6 tuned for fire roads. No big deal - there is enough adjustment there that I can set it up for fast, buff, bermy, flowy trails, which I have done. Still though, I almost always leave that shock in the down mode 100% of the time, including for climbing.

In Fernie last summer, that bike blew my mind - not on the downs, but the climbing. Exactly as you describe vanislemtbr. I could claw my way up stuff I had never before been able to climb. It has actually made me kinda like climbing. Not really, but at least it's less heinous than it used to be.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Exactly. I tried to explain this to Suspensionwerx more than once yet I still got a second circuit on my 11-6 tuned for fire roads. No big deal - there is enough adjustment there that I can set it up for fast, buff, bermy, flowy trails, which I have done. Still though, I almost always leave that shock in the down mode 100% of the time, including for climbing.
> 
> In Fernie last summer, that bike blew my mind - not on the downs, but the climbing. Exactly as you describe vanislemtbr. I could claw my way up stuff I had never before been able to climb. It has actually made me kinda like climbing. Not really, but at least it's less heinous than it used to be.


I've done the nearly same with my ElevenSix. I leave it in DH mode all the time, great for climbing and doesn't feel too much or too bobby. I occasionally use the second circuit for firmer flowy riding and am still adjusting that for that purpose. I would say, I do prefer the active feel and added traction of the coil on this bike overall compared to the DPX2 and am not feeling like I wasted any money, while I do see your points. Both work well.

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> Firstly I wanted to thank-you for the content in this thread. I've read through all the messages in helping me make a decision on the purchase of a Druid.
> 
> I'm 5'9" and was considering a medium, but they were sold out. The numbers for the large seemed close to what I was looking for but was scared to go for it considering this was going to be a lot more bike than my medium 27.5 wheeled Kona Process 153. I decided to demo a large Norco Sight and found that I was comfortable on a larger frame with similar numbers to the large Druid. The Sight was a great bike btw and it was a tough call to not to take it home from the demo day.
> 
> ...


Great review. I too am still fiddling with my 2021 36 to achieve ideal. I did drop pressures a few times and removed a spacer. I may add spacer again and re-Shockwiz. Also added ESI Chunky grips which helped, but certainly the lower PSI really helped, even a few psi makes a large difference. The bike finally came alive on my last ride in Oakridge, OR. Best long trail ride of my life. Going back in a few weeks.

More fiddling to ensue. I like to personally feel every setting on a fork, good, bad and mediocre to understand the effects (bracketing). That takes time on a fork with this many dials and with plenty various terrain types to test on. Overall I'm glad I didn't decide to overbike. The Druid covers so many bases.

TBH, I'll also be considering a Smashpot coil upgrade once available.

Update Notes on XT build:
I ditched my seatpost and got a new Transfer (I know, I know, BikeYoke is better, but Transfer has been fine for me and was $75 cheaper). The stock RF post was soooooo stiff (especially at the lever) and not smooth at all. Almost died a few times when the post wouldn't activate before a jump, LOL. I need instant and light activation for my post which I now have using the same exact cable and lever.

I also recently replaced the saddle with an Ergon. Personal preference. Nothing more. Everything else is stock and perfect. Happy with this bike for sure.

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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Exactly. I tried to explain this to Suspensionwerx more than once yet I still got a second circuit on my 11-6 tuned for fire roads. No big deal - there is enough adjustment there that I can set it up for fast, buff, bermy, flowy trails, which I have done. Still though, I almost always leave that shock in the down mode 100% of the time, including for climbing.
> 
> In Fernie last summer, that bike blew my mind - not on the downs, but the climbing. Exactly as you describe vanislemtbr. I could claw my way up stuff I had never before been able to climb. It has actually made me kinda like climbing. Not really, but at least it's less heinous than it used to be.


What drive train are you on? 30t 10/50?

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> What drive train are you on? 30t 10/50?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, although I just switched from a 32 to a 30. I thought I was always on a 30. Not so. With the 30 I can avoid the granny gear which seems to be a problem with my SRAM drivetrain.

Heading out now for an evening blast. SO STOKED!


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Yes, although I just switched from a 32 to a 30. I thought I was always on a 30. Not so. With the 30 I can avoid the granny gear which seems to be a problem with my SRAM drivetrain.
> 
> Heading out now for an evening blast. SO STOKED!


That's the exact problem I have. On my 30t 10/50 set up I hardly ever was in the Eagle gear. Now on the Druid with 32t 10/50, I'm ALWAYS in it. Definitely making the switch back to 30t now.

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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Great review. I too am still fiddling with my 2021 36 to achieve ideal. I did drop pressures a few times and removed a spacer. I may add spacer again and re-Shockwiz. Also added ESI Chunky grips which helped, but certainly the lower PSI really helped, even a few psi makes a large difference. The bike finally came alive on my last ride in Oakridge, OR. Best long trail ride of my life. Going back in a few weeks.
> 
> More fiddling to ensue. I like to personally feel every setting on a fork, good, bad and mediocre to understand the effects (bracketing). That takes time on a fork with this many dials and with plenty various terrain types to test on. Overall I'm glad I didn't decide to overbike. The Druid covers so many bases.
> 
> ...


Right there with you. Same experience as me. You live in Oregon or visiting? I've mtb all over the state if u need any info

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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Kinda longish intro, and first time poster... 7 month owner of a Large Druid with EX511s, DT240s, Push 11-6, Fox 36 Fit4 Factory, and Hayes Dominion A4s. 

Firstly, thanks for all the previous posts and information. That is what helped me decide on my Druid after coming to terms with letting the Knolly Warden Carbon go, which was not an easy decision. I live in Marin County, and there is a lot of UP and undulating terrain. I like to ride the gnarlier trails here, which on average don't require an enduro bike, but definitely something more than a Ripley, which I also test rode prior to the Druid. 

Starting with the Druid positives besides being Canadian: 

1) geo - coming from a 2016 Warden carbon, the Druid reach in size L, extra length, and lower standover, were all an awesome change for my 5'11, 32 inseam body. Riding this for a while now, I could still ask for more reach, maybe 20 mm more. The Druid chainstays are longer than the playful Warden, and they also add more stability but at the lack of quick manuals, wheelies, etc.. Druid stack height feels better, but maybe this is also a 29er thing, as this is my first 29er. 

2) quality - I thought Knolly made quality bikes...well, so does Forbidden. And details are very thought out. The simplicity is really inspiring. Less pivots, but the ones there do have quality bearings; the hardware and bolts handle tooling without degrading. Finish is awesome, and no odd blemishes or weaknesses to point out. 

3) ride - the Warden wore me out on pumping and undulating terrain; the older gen Knolly 4-bar was not a stand-up and mash platform. The Druid surprised me when I laid into he bike and it propelled me with less resistance. Super punchy? No. Climbing, the Druid with it's steep seat angle, climbed better than my Warden. Maybe also attribute that to 29s. I also moved from an 11 speed to a Shimano 12spd XT, but I hang out in 11 a lot, so I still feel the Druid is somewhat of a better climber than the older Knolly. Descending, the Druid felt super planted, stable, and less hesitant when rolling into chunk. Marin was less of a test for this than some other local trails down South. I don't ride park, but I do get on hairy trails out here, so the Druid really seems to be the tool for as big as I want to get. The Ripley felt it was being pushed and uncomfortable where the Druid just took things at pace. 

4) support - I live in California, keep touch with Forbidden via email, and never a hiccup or lack of response from the team. Super solid support. 

OVERALL: great bike, super all-arounder, and so far no issues to speak of worth reporting. 

The negatives, but it's even hard to call them negatives: 

1) chain rub - yes, it's real. I couldn't solve it with a 32 tooth cog on my Race Face turbines. When in the 10 tooth and next cog, the chain will rub, but only to a point, and create divots in the chainstay protector. The grooves eventually stop wearing before you hit the frame, and no damage to speak of. I'm sure this is going to be taken care of next iteration. 

2) shock adjustment - you will not be able to accurately gauge sag in your shock. Also, had I known how good the stock DPX2 is, I would have saved money and not bought the 11-6. Don't get me wrong, the 11-6 is nice, sweet bling, and engineering masterpiece, but has not added performance on the Druid. On my Knolly I ran a CC DB Inline coil, and that made a night and day difference for me at 205lbs. The DPX2 once dialed in on the Druid felt awesome, and also kept a nice poppy feeling when demanded. 

3) the idler - I mean this is the reason the bike is what it is! I keep wondering do I prefer the idler or no idler? The maintenance is minimal, but you better make sure to lube your drivetrain religiously, and make sure to remove that gunk from behind the idler a lot. I've replaced one idler after 7 months of riding 4-5 days a week at 9 miles a ride. The idler is not noticeable when pedaling, but you will notice it with maintenance. 

The only other bike I was considering was a Knolly Fugitive, and I may go that way when they release a V2. Still, I'm very stoked with the Druid. 

If anyone has any experience with a Fox 36 Fit4, did you also find it harsh down the chunk and not grippy off-camber? I cannot for the life of me get this shock to work, and I rather not go the option of a third party coil kit. Has anyone had luck with the Pike Ultimate as a trail fork at 150? I ran the older RTC3 Pike at 160 on my 27.5, and I felt it covered most ground I needed. 

The Druid is worth owning if you happen to be on the fence. Cheers.


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

dustybarrels said:


> Kinda longish intro, and first time poster... 7 month owner of a Large Druid with EX511s, DT240s, Push 11-6, Fox 36 Fit4 Factory, and Hayes Dominion A4s.
> 
> Firstly, thanks for all the previous posts and information. That is what helped me decide on my Druid after coming to terms with letting the Knolly Warden Carbon go, which was not an easy decision. I live in Marin County, and there is a lot of UP and undulating terrain.


Nice write up, thanks! As another Marin resident, it's good to get a sense of how the bike handles the local trails. The Druid is on my short list but I was wondering if the majority of the trails around here, even the spicier ones, wouldn't really play to the Druid's commonly-praised strengths (chunk and square-edge hits).

Any more thoughts or examples on where the bike excels around Marin or greater Bay Area?


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

BikesDogsBrews said:


> Nice write up, thanks! As another Marin resident, it's good to get a sense of how the bike handles the local trails. The Druid is on my short list but I was wondering if the majority of the trails around here, even the spicier ones, wouldn't really play to the Druid's commonly-praised strengths (chunk and square-edge hits).
> 
> Any more thoughts or examples on where the bike excels around Marin or greater Bay Area?


I rode a lot of Pacifica before Marin, and parts of Monatara or Mile and Boy Scout felt better on the Druid than the Knolly. Backside China camp on the gnarlier stuff is total Druid territory. I have a new kid, so getting away for over 4 hours at a time is tough for now. Problem with Marin is nowhere to really let the Druid fly on the 29s; correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe my skill level, but Ripley was just not enough bike for me at 200+lbs when things got rough. On that note, I would even rule out most 120mm 29ers anyhow. But the Druid is still great for tighter flowy trails, and no problem in technical stuff; it's just going to be more enduro-like, because it seems that was really the intention, too. However, this is why I'm considering putting the Pike on it and just making it more trail defined. No need for full on bigger enduros in what I've experienced in Marin, at least so I feel.


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## BikesDogsBrews (Jun 9, 2020)

dustybarrels said:


> I rode a lot of Pacifica before Marin, and parts of Monatara or Mile and Boy Scout felt better on the Druid than the Knolly. Backside China camp on the gnarlier stuff is total Druid territory. I have a new kid, so getting away for over 4 hours at a time is tough for now. Problem with Marin is nowhere to really let the Druid fly on the 29s; correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe my skill level, but Ripley was just not enough bike for me at 200+lbs when things got rough. On that note, I would even rule out most 120mm 29ers anyhow. But the Druid is still great for tighter flowy trails, and no problem in technical stuff; it's just going to be more enduro-like, because it seems that was really the intention, too. However, this is why I'm considering putting the Pike on it and just making it more trail defined. No need for full on bigger enduros in what I've experienced in Marin, at least so I feel.


I hear you, I've got my sights set on bikes with just a little more travel than "Downcountry" (although the Transition Spur could be a great Marin Co. bike) but not taxing on long fire road slogs. There are certainly some steep and twisty trails around here but not many with sustained chunk. Backside of China Camp is my go-to for weekday rides, glad to hear you think it handles well there.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I've done the nearly same with my ElevenSix. I leave it in DH mode all the time, great for climbing and doesn't feel too much or too bobby. I occasionally use the second circuit for firmer flowy riding and am still adjusting that for that purpose. I would say, I do prefer the active feel and added traction of the coil on this bike overall compared to the DPX2 and am not feeling like I wasted any money, while I do see your points. Both work well.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I want to correct my post above where I kinda slammed Suspensionwerx. It turns out that that was very underserved.

Tonight I did a nice evening blast but before I hit the trail, I put all settings on my 11-6 back to PUSH's suggested settings. Dammit. The climb mode was CRAZEE good. It felt like I was on an e-bike. And the down mode...PERFECT! Now I will say that since I got my fork dialled, the 11-6 feels 10x better. So there's that. And I will also say that I felt especially strong tonight.

Anyway, I think I have things dialled 100%.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I want to correct my post above where I kinda slammed Suspensionwerx. It turns out that that was very underserved.
> 
> Tonight I did a nice evening blast but before I hit the trail, I put all settings on my 11-6 back to PUSH's suggested settings. Dammit. The climb mode was CRAZEE good. It felt like I was on an e-bike. And the down mode...PERFECT! Now I will say that since I got my fork dialled, the 11-6 feels 10x better. So there's that. And I will also say that I felt especially strong tonight.
> 
> Anyway, I think I have things dialled 100%.


Nice! Funny how fiddling can transform a ride. I noticed that too regarding the fork. Get that dialed and the whole bike improves 10x

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> Right there with you. Same experience as me. You live in Oregon or visiting? I've mtb all over the state if u need any info
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Moved back to Oregon this year, in Bend. Shoot me some favorite rides. I'd love to check them out.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Nice! Funny how fiddling can transform a ride. I noticed that too regarding the fork. Get that dialed and the whole bike improves 10x
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Another thing I did was replace my once loved Chromag grips with some cheaper Kona grips. Again - 10x better. No more hand pain. The metal clamps on the outside edge of the Chromag grips was apparently causing a ton of pain in my hands. The Konas have a single clamp only on the inside edge of each grip, with soft-ish rubber on the outside. Another victory.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Somebody made a comment about the Fox 36 GRIP2 being designed for Richie Rude, and I'd have to agree. I tried going wide open on HSC last night, and it was about as comfortable as I've ever felt going through high-speed roots. If I start doing a lot of dorp to falt, I'll add some HSC back, but for normal riding on rough trails, 0 HSC is the ticket.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Does the LSC still do anything noticeable with HSC full out from closed on those GRIP2 dampers?


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Great review. I too am still fiddling with my 2021 36 to achieve ideal. I did drop pressures a few times and removed a spacer. I may add spacer again and re-Shockwiz. Also added ESI Chunky grips which helped, but certainly the lower PSI really helped, even a few psi makes a large difference. The bike finally came alive on my last ride in Oakridge, OR. Best long trail ride of my life. Going back in a few weeks.
> 
> More fiddling to ensue. I like to personally feel every setting on a fork, good, bad and mediocre to understand the effects (bracketing). That takes time on a fork with this many dials and with plenty various terrain types to test on. Overall I'm glad I didn't decide to overbike. The Druid covers so many bases.
> 
> ...


Thanks, yeah I might try a Ergon saddle. Reviews are good and I haven't met anyone that doesn't like theirs. I went with the Oury grips with the inner clamp only.

Had a short one last night and didn't like the HSC on the fork. I'll be running it open for all but the nastiest drops. I even tried to add a couple clicks of compression on the DPX2 and noticed a harshness on chunky terrain at medium speeds.

I might look at some further tuning options for the 36 in a couple months when I'm feeling I need to freshen things up. I'll checkout the smashpot, but I was so happy with the luftkappe on my Pike that may be my first step. It's 90% there.

This bike makes want to ride everyday. Even when it's hot and the trails are blown out


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Somebody made a comment about the Fox 36 GRIP2 being designed for Richie Rude, and I'd have to agree. I tried going wide open on HSC last night, and it was about as comfortable as I've ever felt going through high-speed roots. If I start doing a lot of dorp to falt, I'll add some HSC back, but for normal riding on rough trails, 0 HSC is the ticket.


I made that comment and yes - agreed on everything you said. In addition to HSC wide open, I would add that 1 token for 150mm is adequate. Again, subject to sending it massively.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Varaxis said:


> Does the LSC still do anything noticeable with HSC full out from closed on those GRIP2 dampers?


Yes. On mine there is a very noticeable difference.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> Thanks, yeah I might try a Ergon saddle. Reviews are good and I haven't met anyone that doesn't like theirs. I went with the Oury grips with the inner clamp only.
> 
> Had a short one last night and didn't like the HSC on the fork. I'll be running it open for all but the nastiest drops. I even tried to add a couple clicks of compression on the DPX2 and noticed a harshness on chunky terrain at medium speeds.
> 
> ...


Yeah, an FYI: Vorsprung products for the 2021 36 are still in development. Same goes for the PUSH ACS3 coil kit.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I made that comment and yes - agreed on everything you said. In addition to HSC wide open, I would add that 1 token for 150mm is adequate. Again, subject to sending it massively.


I've found going wide open on HSC, one token and a bit less PSI made a huge difference blasting through the gnar. I was struggling to plow through rough sections until I did that.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Pulled my 36 apart. Here is the air shaft. Excessive grease? Oil wipers were bone dry too.









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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> Pulled my 36 apart. Here is the air shaft. Excessive grease? Oil wipers were bone dry too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Exactly what mine looked like. Notice any difference riding after regressing lighter? Not sure I have yet. Only did one ride though

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

With in the last 24 hours I pretty much snapped, came up with a build plan, drove 600km to get parts and a frame. And here it is.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> With in the last 24 hours I pretty much snapped, came up with a build plan, drove 600km to get parts and a frame. And here it is.


**** yeah


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Alanc12 said:


> With in the last 24 hours I pretty much snapped, came up with a build plan, drove 600km to get parts and a frame. And here it is.


Hot! I haven't see that color outside of promo builds yet.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

krylon1892 said:


> Hot! I haven't see that color outside of promo builds yet.


Yea you have to forgive the saddle. Couldn't get what I wanted so had to use an old saddle for now.
The purple is super deep. Almost looks like a black when in the shadow, then in the sun it blings.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> With in the last 24 hours I pretty much snapped, came up with a build plan, drove 600km to get parts and a frame. And here it is.


Epic. Congrats!!! That cosmic eggplant is a home run.

That is some wicked history that will always be attached to that bike. Very very cool.

Just got back from another evening blast. I hope you love your new bike as much as I love mine.

As an aside, I had my suspension fully dialled last year and then over the winter I decided to gut the fork and swap out the DPX2 for an 11-6. I was starting to think that was a mistake. Until now...

Once again I have both ends dialled. It's back to where I had it last year, feeling like it has much more travel than 130/150, except it's basically amped up a few notches in every respect.

I take back what I said about missing the DPX2. It's a fine shock, especially as an OEM spec'ed shock, but the 11-6 is really shining now that I was able to get the fork dialled. Fox's recommended settings for the 36 are whack AF. Ridiculous. Complete gopher hole. What is even more bizarre is that I have a 34 on my Honzo that is set EXACTLY in accordance with Fox's recommended settings and it is frikkin incredible. I don't get it. Whatever. At least I am finally there now.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Straight best color option available. Had a Kona Expolsif same color theme. Grew on me to where I thought that was ultimate color combo. Lol. How's the fork working out? (when you have a chance to test)


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

dustybarrels said:


> Straight best color option available. Had a Kona Expolsif same color theme. Grew on me to where I thought that was ultimate color combo. Lol. How's the fork working out? (when you have a chance to test)


Going to head to golden bc, this weekend for some testing. First impressions. Very very supple off the top. I had a fox factory rc2 damper with luftkappe and that was amazing to me untill now. As long as this fork can hold up in the travel, I think I'll be happy


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Going to head to golden bc, this weekend for some testing. First impressions. Very very supple off the top. I had a fox factory rc2 damper with luftkappe and that was amazing to me untill now. As long as this fork can hold up in the travel, I think I'll be happy


Holy crap. I may be in Golden as well this weekend!!! I am really looking forward to hitting Seven again.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> Going to head to golden bc, this weekend for some testing. First impressions. Very very supple off the top. I had a fox factory rc2 damper with luftkappe and that was amazing to me untill now. As long as this fork can hold up in the travel, I think I'll be happy


Honestly would be very interested to know how the Bomber works out. Looking for anything that works off camber and plush enough to ditch my Fox 36 Fit4 Factory. Lockout was assumed a must for spirited pedaling on the paved roads to my local trails, but the danger of a poor performing fork on the actual trail is underrated!!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dustybarrels said:


> Honestly would be very interested to know how the Bomber works out. Looking for anything that works off camber and plush enough to ditch my Fox 36 Fit4 Factory. Lockout was assumed a must for spirited pedaling on the paved roads to my local trails, but the danger of a poor performing fork on the actual trail is underrated!!


May I suggest considering the purchase of a Luftkappe? $100ish. You may love it. If so, it would be a cheap fix.

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/vorsprung-luftkappe-air-piston-kit-for-fox-36-forks-review/


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

dustybarrels said:


> Honestly would be very interested to know how the Bomber works out. Looking for anything that works off camber and plush enough to ditch my Fox 36 Fit4 Factory. Lockout was assumed a must for spirited pedaling on the paved roads to my local trails, but the danger of a poor performing fork on the actual trail is underrated!!


As well as the Luftkappe recommended above, give the Fractive tune by Vorsprung a try. I've been running a 36 Fit4 with that damper upgrade for over two years now and it has been incredible! I don't even think about forks anymore, this one just does everything I want a fork to do. I've had it on four bikes with varying wheel sizes and travel lengths. My opinion is that a custom tuned damper beats a stock damper most of the time. And I have spent time on the Grip2. Its currently installed on a DJ fork with all the knobs turned to hard, I like the tuned Fit4 more.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

krylon1892 said:


> As well as the Luftkappe recommended above, give the Fractive tune by Vorsprung a try. I've been running a 36 Fit4 with that damper upgrade for over two years now and it has been incredible! I don't even think about forks anymore, this one just does everything I want a fork to do. I've had it on four bikes with varying wheel sizes and travel lengths. My opinion is that a custom tuned damper beats a stock damper most of the time. And I have spent time on the Grip2. Its currently installed on a DJ fork with all the knobs turned to hard, I like the tuned Fit4 more.


Thanks for the suggestion. I have to look into that again as last I did I wrote it off since my Fit4 is a 2020, and apparently the damper has some updates to it. I hope their Fractive is compatible on the newer models; have heard a lot of praise for Vorsprung.


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> With in the last 24 hours I pretty much snapped, came up with a build plan, drove 600km to get parts and a frame. And here it is.


Man. And here I am still waiting for my cosmic eggplant frame I basically impulse bought 6 weeks ago when the color pushed me over the edge. Frame will be here Monday though, so stoked!


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Wander512 said:


> Man. And here I am still waiting for my cosmic eggplant frame I basically impulse bought 6 weeks ago when the color pushed me over the edge. Frame will be here Monday though, so stoked!


Haha yea its wasn't as "off the cuff" as it sounded. I tried to buy the xt build when they first came out but missed out so I have been keeping an eye out. Then seen on pink bike that the store I was dealing with ahd a purple frame coming in so I called him and it arrived while I was on the phone. I took that as a sign.
Then it seemed like it didn't matter what parts I asked for, he had it.

The inside line in calgary, possibly the best bike shop I've ever dealt with. Even gave good discountS on everything apart from frame. They also had a large brown frame in and an xl purple.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Haha yea its wasn't as "off the cuff" as it sounded. I tried to buy the xt build when they first came out but missed out so I have been keeping an eye out. Then seen on pink bike that the store I was dealing with ahd a purple frame coming in so I called him and it arrived while I was on the phone. I took that as a sign.
> Then it seemed like it didn't matter what parts I asked for, he had it.
> 
> The inside line in calgary, possibly the best bike shop I've ever dealt with. Even gave good discountS on everything apart from frame. They also had a large brown frame in and an xl purple.


Cam is the man! And so is Zack. Both are awesome, passionate riders, and meticulous skilled bike surgeons. That is so nice to hear that they helped you out.

They have been taking care of me and my Druid since shortly after buying the frame. I am surprised they had everything you needed given that they are a small, niche shop - all the more reason to have taken all that as a sign. Destiny indeed.

Had I known you were coming I would have met you there with cold beers in hand (or beverages of your choice) to celebrate.

Congrats again!!!


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Yep. Looks about right. Here is mine:


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Iamblichus said:


> Yep. Looks about right. Here is mine:
> 
> View attachment 1352537


Check the wiper seals too. Standard fox to leave them dry and load up the piston


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## CCPHammer (May 12, 2007)

Lewis Buchanan's new build.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

just to add what I hope might be helpful information about the 36...

I pulled mine apart last night and found that the bushing on the negative plate is incredibly tight. When sliding it by hand, it sticks and chatters and if the neg plate is even a little out of alignment, it binds. I had to turn a bullet tool on my lathe since the older ones don't fit in the shaft but I lubed up the U-Cup and Q-ring as well as the bushing and slid it back on...it's marginally better now. I'm going to put a little oil above the plate when I reinstall to keep it bathed in oil. If that doesn't improve it, my plan is the machine a bushing sizer from some stainless rod I have lying around that's stepped in 0.001" increments. Opening it up by a couple thou ought to loosen the bushing without affecting the seals and it'll hopefully run a lot smoother. I have a new CSU coming next week to experiment with offsets so it'll get opened up again by wednesday anyhow.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Sooo, yesturday was my first ride on the druid and I took it up the lifts in golden bc. Five minutes into the first trail, I put a hole in my rear tire. Managed to plg it and add some air. This is the only complaint I have.
The bike.. Well the bike is an absolute beast. Considering I was riding a 175mm rear travel freeride bike, this thing can handle some gnarly stuff and at speed too. Don't get me wrong you feal some impacts a little more than a big travel bike but the druid handles it in its stride.
I think I pretty much nailed my set up right off the bat (I'll have to get numbers later)
Tried a little climbing on it to see what I was in for and was pleasantly surprised. Shock in full open and no Bob at all. 
My only issue now it to let the druid run, the way in which it picks up speed is absolutly awesome yet terrifying


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Long shocking this bike is a thing! Had my first real ride on my~148mm Druid last night. I installed a pair of 2mm offset bushings in an old Fox DHX2 I got off Pinkbike. Did a lot of cautious checking but things aren't even close to bottoming weirdly or touching. I was a little worried about changing two things at once, i.e. going from air to coil and changing travel, but I figured a different air shock wouldn't have the very specific tune and a coil was safer than a bad air shock. Also I was guessing the the extra travel was going to continue on that steep progressive curve that you can see at the end of the travel in 130mm mode and to get the best use of it a coil would be the way to go. My first attempt was with a way too light 325# spring that felt awesome on the flats and on small jumps but that I bottomed on my first bigger hit. Did some recalculating and came up with 375# as a better number. Ended up going with 400# for now because it was cheap and I could get it in a day. I was really impressed with the bike with the stock DPX2 and am only going to stick with this if I can get the same quality of suspension with the current setup. 130mm of incredible travel beats more of so-so travel. Right now with the 400# spring I feel like on small chatter its a little stiffer but oh so good on harder hits. It's still really poppy and I don't feel that I've turned it into a monster at all. I am thinking that actually hunting down a 375# spring might be perfect. I am still playing with the knobbies, too. The general idea I have going right now is compression open and rebound fast. The tails around my house are really flat and I am not tuning the bike for them. I'm going tomorrow to the same DH trails I rode when I first got the bike and I was blown away by its performance. There I can see how it does in super fast and chunky stuff, which is what I really care about. Also try shorting some big trail gaps which is where I felt like I was really feeling the 130mm before, on my mistakes. Anyway, its a fun experiment and I'll report back on how it continues.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Cerberus75 said:


> Haha, yeah. They'll put out a 29er soon. IMHO Canfield and Forbidden have nailed an efficient yet active suspension, and geo that suits shorter people like myself.


I rode a Canfield Balance for a while. Single best climbing bike I've ever been on. And thats saying something for a 170/165 bike! I'd probably be on a Riot now if there had been a new one in the last five years. This "little" bike is more balanced and fun than my Balance though.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> I rode a Canfield Balance for a while. Single best climbing bike I've ever been on. And thats saying something for a 170/165 bike! I'd probably be on a Riot now if there had been a new one in the last five years. This "little" bike is more balanced and fun than my Balance though.


Yeah the Riot boost off small stuff so other than its weight. Its still fun on tamer trails. Being able to change rear travel for big day is what I'm looking for. Definitely going to be a hard choice. This fall winter. Between the Druid and the new bike CB will put out. it'll come down to fit and geometry. I have a springdex coil spring and love it. Fine tuning the rear is coil rate is nice. I run 425lbs for drops and jumps. But can go to 380lbs for chunky stuff. Its also great for riding in hot weather with a long climb and heavy pack. That you've dropped 3L water from the bag and probably another from yourself.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

krylon1892 said:


> Long shocking this bike is a thing! Had my first real ride on my~148mm Druid last night. I installed a pair of 2mm offset bushings in an old Fox DHX2 I got off Pinkbike. Did a lot of cautious checking but things aren't even close to bottoming weirdly or touching. I was a little worried about changing two things at once, i.e. going from air to coil and changing travel, but I figured a different air shock wouldn't have the very specific tune and a coil was safer than a bad air shock. Also I was guessing the the extra travel was going to continue on that steep progressive curve that you can see at the end of the travel in 130mm mode and to get the best use of it a coil would be the way to go. My first attempt was with a way too light 325# spring that felt awesome on the flats and on small jumps but that I bottomed on my first bigger hit. Did some recalculating and came up with 375# as a better number. Ended up going with 400# for now because it was cheap and I could get it in a day. I was really impressed with the bike with the stock DPX2 and am only going to stick with this if I can get the same quality of suspension with the current setup. 130mm of incredible travel beats more of so-so travel. Right now with the 400# spring I feel like on small chatter its a little stiffer but oh so good on harder hits. It's still really poppy and I don't feel that I've turned it into a monster at all. I am thinking that actually hunting down a 375# spring might be perfect. I am still playing with the knobbies, too. The general idea I have going right now is compression open and rebound fast. The tails around my house are really flat and I am not tuning the bike for them. I'm going tomorrow to the same DH trails I rode when I first got the bike and I was blown away by its performance. There I can see how it does in super fast and chunky stuff, which is what I really care about. Also try shorting some big trail gaps which is where I felt like I was really feeling the 130mm before, on my mistakes. Anyway, its a fun experiment and I'll report back on how it continues.


What shock eye2eye and stroke did you use?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Sooo, yesturday was my first ride on the druid and I took it up the lifts in golden bc. Five minutes into the first trail, I put a hole in my rear tire. Managed to plg it and add some air. This is the only complaint I have.
> The bike.. Well the bike is an absolute beast. Considering I was riding a 175mm rear travel freeride bike, this thing can handle some gnarly stuff and at speed too. Don't get me wrong you feal some impacts a little more than a big travel bike but the druid handles it in its stride.
> I think I pretty much nailed my set up right off the bat (I'll have to get numbers later)
> Tried a little climbing on it to see what I was in for and was pleasantly surprised. Shock in full open and no Bob at all.
> My only issue now it to let the druid run, the way in which it picks up speed is absolutly awesome yet terrifying


Destroyed the DHR2+ first week on mine. Punctured top and pinch bead on front now. Tires didn't survive first 200mi

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Sooo, yesturday was my first ride on the druid and I took it up the lifts in golden bc. Five minutes into the first trail, I put a hole in my rear tire. Managed to plg it and add some air. This is the only complaint I have.
> The bike.. Well the bike is an absolute beast. Considering I was riding a 175mm rear travel freeride bike, this thing can handle some gnarly stuff and at speed too. Don't get me wrong you feal some impacts a little more than a big travel bike but the druid handles it in its stride.
> I think I pretty much nailed my set up right off the bat (I'll have to get numbers later)
> Tried a little climbing on it to see what I was in for and was pleasantly surprised. Shock in full open and no Bob at all.
> My only issue now it to let the druid run, the way in which it picks up speed is absolutly awesome yet terrifying


Awesome. Keep us posted, and enjoy the long weekend. Golden looks hot AF temp-wise. I am heading to Canmore for a blast very shortly.

Not sure if this is of interest to anyone, and I appreciate I am coming across as being a little over the top and probably highly irritating to some, but I can't help it. I feel so fortunate to be experiencing the magic of this bike. Skip to post #11:

https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/quiver-killer-1147375.html#post14905759

My comments are 100% sincere. I have no reason to be anything but. If the Druid was not "it", I would dump it and continue my search for "the one". As I have said, after 25 years, that search has finally ended. For now at least...

PS - Kicking Horse can dish out a ton of punishment, even for a full on DH sled. It's good to hear the Druid survived. I will be interested to hear more comments from you.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

So I'm using a drivetrain from my previous bike, it worked fine on that bike but for what ever reason it seems to jump when I put the power down on this bike. I did get a new chain which I've been told could be causing it? Anyone experience this?

As for the temperature in golden. 38 degrees yesturday. Feels hotter today, was going to get out for a ride this arvo but I'm struggling just hanging out at the accommodation lol


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Interestingly, on my way to Canmore for a ride this aft, I caught up to a pewter Silverado with a Gloss Moss Druid in the back. First time I have come across another Druid in the wild. I was so excited, honking my horn and waving, that I almost went off the road.

@pinkrobe - if that was you, sorry for the overly exuberant greeting. Whoever it was, I assume they turned off where they did to hit Prospector.

In not so great news, I think I pooched my idler again. I'm bringing it in first thing tomorrow.

I seem to keep breaking things on this bike. I don't know why. I ride very light and really, I am not putting _that_ much mileage on it compared to other bikes that have gone for a full season with WAY more mileage and zero issues. I can't seem to keep my Druid going for more than 10 or so rides before I have to deal with something else. Most of it is component-related, so not blaming Forbidden in the slightest, although I am starting to get concerned about the idler. I was concerned about it from the outset, and things have not gone my way on that front. I even stopped washing my bike with a hose, and in fact, pretty much stopped washing it for fear that it was my fault I seem to be having these troubles.

I will report back further tomorrow once I find out what it is. It may not be the idler. But there is definitely something pooched in the driveline.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

Alanc12 said:


> So I'm using a drivetrain from my previous bike, it worked fine on that bike but for what ever reason it seems to jump when I put the power down on this bike. I did get a new chain which I've been told could be causing it? Anyone experience this?


It's pretty common that if you put a new chain on a worn drivetrain, it'll suffer. How many miles are on that cassette?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

smudge said:


> It's pretty common that if you put a new chain on a worn drivetrain, it'll suffer. How many miles are on that cassette?


Ild say its got a couple hundred miles on it. I'm not a big pedaller so wouldn't be excessive amount. Rode it again yesturday after trying to fine tune it and ran the b screw abit tighter. Didn't fault once, but I'll keep testing and let ya know the outcome.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interestingly, on my way to Canmore for a ride this aft, I caught up to a pewter Silverado with a Gloss Moss Druid in the back. First time I have come across another Druid in the wild. I was so excited, honking my horn and waving, that I almost went off the road.
> 
> @pinkrobe - if that was you, sorry for the overly exuberant greeting. Whoever it was, I assume they turned off where they did to hit Prospector.
> 
> ...


i put about 700 miles on the v2 idler before it started to look real bad and I changed it.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

alan1 said:


> What shock eye2eye and stroke did you use?


216 x 63 The offset bushings bring it to 212 x 63. I figure the extra eye to eye make up for the added amount of travel lost to sag.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> i put about 700 miles on the v2 idler before it started to look real bad and I changed it.


I seem to be chewing through these like butter.

I'm off to the LBS now. Stay tuned.

Thankfully I still have my original idler which was repacked with fresh bearings, before the replacement idler arrived. Taking that with me, along with a fresh set of bearings for the replacement idler. I have a big ride planned for later today. And tomorrow too. I am not overly enthused about doing either on my hardtail, but I will if I have to.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

krylon1892 said:


> 216 x 63 The offset bushings bring it to 212 x 63. I figure the extra eye to eye make up for the added amount of travel lost to sag.


Cheers, no sign of any rubbing with the rear tyre or swinging arm hitting the seat tube? Just had the first ride on my Druid really stoked.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just by way of update, the idler was a little chunky so we replaced the bearings. 

That was not the issue though. My lower chain guide completely **** the bed on me. Shredded. The rubber was destroyed. They did not have one in stock so we took it off. I am going to see how things go today without it. If nothing else, maybe I will notice less driveline drag, although that has never been an issue with me (even with the lower chain guide completely mangled inside).

If I end up going guide-less, I will need to shorten my chain. 

Inside Line in Calgary has two XL frames in stock - one Cosmic Eggplant and the other Mr. Brownstone - in case anyone is interested.

Off to ride, sans lower chain guide...


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Somebody made a comment about the Fox 36 GRIP2 being designed for Richie Rude, and I'd have to agree. I tried going wide open on HSC last night, and it was about as comfortable as I've ever felt going through high-speed roots. If I start doing a lot of dorp to falt, I'll add some HSC back, but for normal riding on rough trails, 0 HSC is the ticket.


richie basically destroy's everything he tests, and once it survives - they basically know they have a pretty rock solid product.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

By way of follow up to my last post above, I rode today with no lower chain guide. I previously didn’t think there was any or much driveline drag with this bike. I was wrong. I am hesitant to say how much difference there was without the chain guide but for me, it was 100% immediately noticeable and it translated directly to decreased peddling effort on the trail. Plus...silence! 

I did not drop a chain or come even close to doing so for the entire ride. 

Apart from preventing dropped chains (which was not a problem today), I don’t know what the purpose of the lower guide is other than, perhaps, to increase the number of chainring teeth that come into contact with the chain. 

I am going to contact Forbidden. If there is no legit reason to be running it, I think I will leave it off unless and until I encounter any issues. 

For me, blowing up the lower chain guide was a blessing in disguise. I never would have run the bike without one. Now that I have, I don’t think I am going back.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> By way of follow up to my last post above, I rode today with no lower chain guide. I previously didn't think there was any or much driveline drag with this bike. I was wrong. I am hesitant to say how much difference there was without the chain guide but for me, it was 100% immediately noticeable and it translated directly to decreased peddling effort on the trail. Plus...silence!
> 
> I did not drop a chain or come even close to doing so for the entire ride.
> 
> ...


How Many links did you remove to get it to work. My whole bash gaurd came loose today and I dropped a chain, fortunitly I noticed before anything could be damaged. Re-tentioned it and was away laughing.

On a side note I added some PSI's to my shock. Sitting around 180psi now with 3clicks lsc from full open and rebound 5clicks from wide open(I think) man a few more psi brought the bike to life. I thought it was fast before but now it just wants to get up and go. Even threw it down the gnarliest trail in the park and warp speed. Yes warp speed, not even an over exaggeration.

I honestly don't think my 175mm travel canyon torque could have kept up, it was just on the gas.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> How Many links did you remove to get it to work. My whole bash gaurd came loose today and I dropped a chain, fortunitly I noticed before anything could be damaged. Re-tentioned it and was away laughing.
> 
> On a side note I added some PSI's to my shock. Sitting around 180psi now with 3clicks lsc from full open and rebound 5clicks from wide open(I think) man a few more psi brought the bike to life. I thought it was fast before but now it just wants to get up and go. Even threw it down the gnarliest trail in the park and warp speed. Yes warp speed, not even an over exaggeration.
> 
> I honestly don't think my 175mm travel canyon torque could have kept up, it was just on the gas.


Awesome!!! I am so glad you are experiencing the same excitement as me.

No links removed, just in case I want to put the chain guide back on when it arrives at the shop. Ideally, it probably should be shortened a bit.

When I was at Inside Line we were talking about you and your bike. Those guys are just as stoked as you with your purchase.

Really really happy things worked out for you!


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

alan1 said:


> Cheers, no sign of any rubbing with the rear tyre or swinging arm hitting the seat tube? Just had the first ride on my Druid really stoked.


Nope, if you cycle the suspension with the shock removed you'll see that its impossible for that to happen. I wasn't sure that the shock wouldn't hit the downtube till I tried it and its miles from that, too.

Stoked for your first ride! Its an awesome feeling. I just hit some gnarly trails again today. So fast through the chunk! And the extra travel really helps on the bigger hits.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> By way of follow up to my last post above, I rode today with no lower chain guide. I previously didn't think there was any or much driveline drag with this bike. I was wrong. I am hesitant to say how much difference there was without the chain guide but for me, it was 100% immediately noticeable and it translated directly to decreased peddling effort on the trail. Plus...silence!
> 
> I did not drop a chain or come even close to doing so for the entire ride.
> 
> ...


It's funny, didn't remember till just now that my first experimenting with 1x drivetrains back in 2009-10 I was running a Gamut lower guide to make it work because it was the dark ages before clutch derailleurs. I was really grumpy about the drag when I made the switch. Haven't run one since because of clutches....and haven't really dropped chains in forever either.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> By way of follow up to my last post above, I rode today with no lower chain guide. I previously didn't think there was any or much driveline drag with this bike. I was wrong. I am hesitant to say how much difference there was without the chain guide but for me, it was 100% immediately noticeable and it translated directly to decreased peddling effort on the trail. Plus...silence!
> 
> I did not drop a chain or come even close to doing so for the entire ride.
> 
> ...


You have to pull the crank to remove the lower chain guid, correct?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> You have to pull the crank to remove the lower chain guid, correct?


Depends on the chainring but you are usually able to get them unbolted through the gaps in the ring. Harder to reinstall with the proper spacers that way.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

krylon1892 said:


> Nope, if you cycle the suspension with the shock removed you'll see that its impossible for that to happen. I wasn't sure that the shock wouldn't hit the downtube till I tried it and its miles from that, too.
> 
> Stoked for your first ride! Its an awesome feeling. I just hit some gnarly trails again today. So fast through the chunk! And the extra travel really helps on the bigger hits.


Cheers for the info, mega happy with the bike the way it is but good to know I can get a wee bit more travel.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

krylon1892 said:


> Long shocking this bike is a thing! Had my first real ride on my~148mm Druid last night. I installed a pair of 2mm offset bushings in an old Fox DHX2 I got off Pinkbike. Did a lot of cautious checking but things aren't even close to bottoming weirdly or touching. I was a little worried about changing two things at once, i.e. going from air to coil and changing travel, but I figured a different air shock wouldn't have the very specific tune and a coil was safer than a bad air shock. Also I was guessing the the extra travel was going to continue on that steep progressive curve that you can see at the end of the travel in 130mm mode and to get the best use of it a coil would be the way to go. My first attempt was with a way too light 325# spring that felt awesome on the flats and on small jumps but that I bottomed on my first bigger hit. Did some recalculating and came up with 375# as a better number. Ended up going with 400# for now because it was cheap and I could get it in a day. I was really impressed with the bike with the stock DPX2 and am only going to stick with this if I can get the same quality of suspension with the current setup. 130mm of incredible travel beats more of so-so travel. Right now with the 400# spring I feel like on small chatter its a little stiffer but oh so good on harder hits. It's still really poppy and I don't feel that I've turned it into a monster at all. I am thinking that actually hunting down a 375# spring might be perfect. I am still playing with the knobbies, too. The general idea I have going right now is compression open and rebound fast. The tails around my house are really flat and I am not tuning the bike for them. I'm going tomorrow to the same DH trails I rode when I first got the bike and I was blown away by its performance. There I can see how it does in super fast and chunky stuff, which is what I really care about. Also try shorting some big trail gaps which is where I felt like I was really feeling the 130mm before, on my mistakes. Anyway, its a fun experiment and I'll report back on how it continues.


I am really looking forward to hearing about what you discover on the DH trails. Please keep us updated.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> 216 x 63 The offset bushings bring it to 212 x 63. I figure the extra eye to eye make up for the added amount of travel lost to sag.


What kind of travel increase would you get with 216x57.5 with offset bushing's you think? Would love to long shock this bike


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Just got back from Revelstoke. We didn't ride as much as planned due to the heat, but I got in a solid climb in the alpine and a few lift-assisted laps. I completely forgot how to jump and corner on bikepark terrain over the winter. I think I was on the last lap of the day before I got my shizzle sorted and started to look like I had actually used a bicycle before. The Druid saved my ass many times. That said, I need to dial in a little more pop out back...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Just got back from Revelstoke. We didn't ride as much as planned due to the heat, but I got in a solid climb in the alpine and a few lift-assisted laps. I completely forgot how to jump and corner on bikepark terrain over the winter. I think I was on the last lap of the day before I got my shizzle sorted and started to look like I had actually used a bicycle before. The Druid saved my ass many times. That said, I need to dial in a little more pop out back...


Keystone? Fifty Six Twenty? Was that you in the pewter Silverado with the Gloss Moss Druid?

I just got back from a super casual ride. While a little on the mellow side, after two days of riding guide-less (lower), I am going to keep it guide-less for now. The noticeable reduction in driveline drag combined with no apparent need (for me) for the lower guide kinda makes it a no-brainer.

I am planning to hit something solo tomorrow that will definitely be not so casual. I will know for sure once I get that ride in. For now though, guide-less it will remain.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Keystone? Fifty Six Twenty? Was that you in the pewter Silverado with the Gloss Moss Druid?
> 
> I just got back from a super casual ride. While a little on the mellow side, after two days of riding guide-less (lower), I am going to keep it guide-less for now. The noticeable reduction in driveline drag combined with no apparent need (for me) for the lower guide kinda makes it a no-brainer.
> 
> I am planning to hit something solo tomorrow that will definitely be not so casual. I will know for sure once I get that ride in. For now though, guide-less it will remain.


Just the resort for us [5620, Bagful of Boogie], with a ride down Crowbar after. It was hot and humid enough to cause us to wimp out 2 out of 3 days. The Silverado is not mine, so there's more of us in the Calgary area...


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Had my first outing on the druid this weekend, I developed some noises in the linkage. Most likely stuff just coming loose so I thought ild pull it all apart and re-torque everything to spec. I noticed the bearings on my linkage wear actually pressed through slightly to one side which caused some rubbing of linkage parts. See photos.
I have contacted forbidden to see what they recommend, I'm pretty sure it will just be to even the bearings out with a bearing press. 
But could be worth checking if you have nothing better to do.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

*Update on Fork and Dropper*

After removing grease from air shaft on Fox 36 Grip 2 and new seal's and wipers my fork feel great, very plush like you would expect. I have feeling the bushings were tight/dry with no oil getting past them. The oil wipers were bone dry like oil was never getting up there.

Now funny thing is my Raceface Affect R dropper feels the same like tight/dry bushings when trying to lower dropper from full extension? Any way to service this? There is zero info on this dropper not even instruction manual. Other issue it takes significant force to actuate the dropper at the level, my thumb is taking major abuse and hurts after long rides.

For the rest of the bike the XT drivetrain/wheelset has been awesome, rear end feels great and manage to quite down the dropper cable from rattling. Now if I can just get this post to work it will be bliss, than long shock and fork this baby.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

jpec29 said:


> After removing grease from air shaft on Fox 36 Grip 2 and new seal's and wipers my fork feel great, very plush like you would expect. I have feeling the bushings were tight/dry with no oil getting past them. The oil wipers were bone dry like oil was never getting up there.
> 
> Now funny thing is my Raceface Affect R dropper feels the same like tight/dry bushings when trying to lower dropper from full extension? Any way to service this? There is zero info on this dropper not even instruction manual. Other issue it takes significant force to actuate the dropper at the level, my thumb is taking major abuse and hurts after long rides.
> 
> For the rest of the bike the XT drivetrain/wheelset has been awesome, rear end feels great and manage to quite down the dropper cable from rattling. Now if I can just get this post to work it will be bliss, than long shock and fork this baby.


My Affect R dropper has similar issues. I don't mind so much that it takes a good amount of effort to actuate the dropper, but mine has a fair amount of right-left play. I can hear the thing thudding (lightly) around on the rough descents everywhere I live. I also tried to find any info on the post. No luck. My last bike had a 9point8 Fall Line and it seems to me that you could hand tighten the top collar of the post lower to stop the play. With this post, I have no idea. I'd love to be able to work on the darn thing.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

You guys who bought the full build with the dropper causing you grief...

Rejoice. Relative to what I paid to build my Druid from the frame up, you guys basically got these components for free. Sell the dropper and replace it with whatever you wish.

I wish so much I could have bought a full build when I got mine. I would have saved thousands, and still have ended up with a rock solid build (apart from a few things I would have sold and upgraded).

The Druid full builds are CONSIDERABLY cheaper than Kona’s new lineup. Not sure how Forbidden is doing it, but BRAVO.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> You guys who bought the full build with the dropper causing you grief...
> 
> Rejoice. Relative to what I paid to build my Druid from the frame up, you guys basically got these components for free. Sell the dropper and replace it with whatever you wish.
> 
> ...


I'm very happy with the build and think it has great value. The XT 12 speed and brake's are awesome. Much better than Sram. The wheel set with dt350's been great too. I knew going in the dropper was the weak point and would need upgraded to bikeyoke. Just wish it functioned a little better for the time being until upgrade. The fork I know other's have struggled with, service seems to have to fixed that issue so no problem there.

Totally happy with bike and Forbidden's service/product. I'd highly recommend them. I do all my own maintenance and repair's so direct to consumer sale works great for me. There lightning quick to respond. Been impressed with Forbidden and performance of bike.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The Druid full builds are CONSIDERABLY cheaper than Kona's new lineup. Not sure how Forbidden is doing it, but BRAVO.


You'd be shocked to see the Tier 1 OE cost for Shimano kit when it's assembled overseas. Same goes for SRAM.

About a decade ago, I had a run of RockShox forks that had the 20mm thru axles drilled wrong so that the wheel sat crooked in the drops. After getting about a dozen of them warranty'd (which were just new lowers with the same issue, and I was expected to swap them and rebuild the forks) I had a pointed discussion with my rep at which time I was given the same OE pricing that companies like Trek and Specialized got...it was about 30% of what I had been paying as a small builder.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> After removing grease from air shaft on Fox 36 Grip 2 and new seal's and wipers my fork feel great, very plush like you would expect. I have feeling the bushings were tight/dry with no oil getting past them. The oil wipers were bone dry like oil was never getting up there.
> 
> Now funny thing is my Raceface Affect R dropper feels the same like tight/dry bushings when trying to lower dropper from full extension? Any way to service this? There is zero info on this dropper not even instruction manual. Other issue it takes significant force to actuate the dropper at the level, my thumb is taking major abuse and hurts after long rides.
> 
> For the rest of the bike the XT drivetrain/wheelset has been awesome, rear end feels great and manage to quite down the dropper cable from rattling. Now if I can just get this post to work it will be bliss, than long shock and fork this baby.


I had the EXACT same experience with the RF dropper. (It was almost identical to the issues I had with an older PNW Bachelor which ultimately ended up being tossed). I emailed Forbidden, but was told to take it up with RF. That's basically just saying, sorry, your bike, your problem. I can't be the only one who the post absolutely useless. I bit the bullet and just got a new Transfer again which works perfect for me. I may upgrade the lever too, but thats a bit less necessary.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> After removing grease from air shaft on Fox 36 Grip 2 and new seal's and wipers my fork feel great, very plush like you would expect. I have feeling the bushings were tight/dry with no oil getting past them. The oil wipers were bone dry like oil was never getting up there.
> 
> Now funny thing is my Raceface Affect R dropper feels the same like tight/dry bushings when trying to lower dropper from full extension? Any way to service this? There is zero info on this dropper not even instruction manual. Other issue it takes significant force to actuate the dropper at the level, my thumb is taking major abuse and hurts after long rides.
> 
> For the rest of the bike the XT drivetrain/wheelset has been awesome, rear end feels great and manage to quite down the dropper cable from rattling. Now if I can just get this post to work it will be bliss, than long shock and fork this baby.


Which seals did specifically you replace? Which brand wipers did you use?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I had the EXACT same experience with the RF dropper. (It was almost identical to the issues I had with an older PNW Bachelor which ultimately ended up being tossed). I emailed Forbidden, but was told to take it up with RF. That's basically just saying, sorry, your bike, your problem. I can't be the only one who the post absolutely useless. I bit the bullet and just got a new Transfer again which works perfect for me. I may upgrade the lever too, but thats a bit less necessary.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just found out the Affect is the same as a Brand-X or PNW Bacholor post.

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/manual/bachelor-dropper-post

Here are the service instructions and video. Got mine apart right now.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> Just found out the Affect is the same as a Brand-X or PNW Bacholor post.
> 
> https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/manual/bachelor-dropper-post
> 
> Here are the service instructions and video. Got mine apart right now.


That was my suspicion. I did multiple tear downs and servicing on the older post and it never ended up working. Transfer was 2 years, zero maintenance. Hope it goes well with servicing the RF. Mine's going on eBay.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

FYI, to all 2021 Fox 36 owners who are trying to get better performance. Vorsprung released the Secus and was tested/reviewed on a 2021 36. Seems to make some good improvements. Check it out here: https://nsmb.com/articles/riding-new-vorsprung-secus/

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jpec29 said:


> I'm very happy with the build and think it has great value. The XT 12 speed and brake's are awesome. Much better than Sram. The wheel set with dt350's been great too. I knew going in the dropper was the weak point and would need upgraded to bikeyoke. Just wish it functioned a little better for the time being until upgrade. The fork I know other's have struggled with, service seems to have to fixed that issue so no problem there.
> 
> Totally happy with bike and Forbidden's service/product. I'd highly recommend them. I do all my own maintenance and repair's so direct to consumer sale works great for me. There lightning quick to respond. Been impressed with Forbidden and performance of bike.


Excellent! Awesome to hear!!!

I didn't mean to trivialize the cost of a new seat post, by the way. I get that the bike is expensive, even if it may be a great deal.

And yes - I contacted Forbidden and got a lightning quick response. Very happy with the service level of late.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

jpec29 said:


> Just found out the Affect is the same as a Brand-X or PNW Bacholor post.
> 
> https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/manual/bachelor-dropper-post
> 
> Here are the service instructions and video. Got mine apart right now.


Dropper fixed!


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Which seals did specifically you replace? Which brand wipers did you use?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just used the Fox "low friction" rebuild kit. Dunno if it is different than stock. Just no oil on bushing's. Same with dropper no lube near top bushing. Funny they had same problem. Dropper was 5 minute fix if you watch the PNW video.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Just used the Fox "low friction" rebuild kit. Dunno if it is different than stock. Just no oil on bushing's. Same with dropper no lube near top bushing. Funny they had same problem. Dropper was 5 minute fix if you watch the PNW video.


Thanks jspec29 for the Fox 36 advice. Mine is coming apart ASAP. On other news, just got a PR on a trail used as an Enduro Stage that I've run over 50 times. I'm in worse shape than the last PR 2 years ago and the trail has been lengthened too. This bike is a beast! Now I just need to figure this fork out because shaking my hands out every 30secs on the downhills is a wee bit scary  FYI - HSC and LSC are open and I have 3 volume spacers. Still bottoming a couple times a run so I'm hoping I can fix this with a simple rebuild.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

I'm thinking of putting my large Druid frame with Push 11.6 up fro sale. You can buy the frame with or without the shock. Check Pinkbike in the next couple days. J


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> I'm thinking of putting my large Druid frame with Push 11.6 up fro sale. You can buy the frame with or without the shock. Check Pinkbike in the next couple days. J


Always sad news. Any particular reason(s)?


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

jpec29 said:


> Just found out the Affect is the same as a Brand-X or PNW Bacholor post.
> 
> https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/manual/bachelor-dropper-post
> 
> Here are the service instructions and video. Got mine apart right now.


nice find jpec! i'll be working on mine soon! Thanks!


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Always sad news. Any particular reason(s)?


I have been wanting to try a super steep seat tube experiment for a while (79') as I have a very long inseam and can't afford to keep both bikes around. Cheers J


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I think I may have finally got the suspension [2021 Fox X2] figured out. LSR and HSR wide open, light on the LSC and only a hair more HSC . Job done! As an aside, I'm also running the 36 with wide open rebound. It's a little bouncy, so I'll likely add a click of damping, but it's pretty well matched to the back end.

People are starting to point and stare at the Druid on the trail, in parking lots and even while driving. It's becoming a local celebrity...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

YogiKudo said:


> I have been wanting to try a super steep seat tube experiment for a while (79') as I have a very long inseam and can't afford to keep both bikes around. Cheers J


It will be sad to see you go. I consider you to be one of the true Druid OGs.

Are you prepared to share what bike is displacing the Druid as your #1?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> ...People are starting to point and stare at the Druid on the trail, in parking lots and even while driving. It's becoming a local celebrity...


I had two Eurpoean dudes at West Bragg Sunday ask me 50 questions at the can before the ride. I referred them to Inside Line.

For the most part though, zero attention. People are dialled into their own world out there. Pretty sure every rider thinks their own bike is hot AF and isn't really looking too far beyond it.

I got WAY more attention last year with the Druid. People knew what it was and were amazed to see it in the wild. This year? Not so much.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> By way of follow up to my last post above, I rode today with no lower chain guide. I previously didn't think there was any or much driveline drag with this bike. I was wrong. I am hesitant to say how much difference there was without the chain guide but for me, it was 100% immediately noticeable and it translated directly to decreased peddling effort on the trail. Plus...silence!
> 
> I did not drop a chain or come even close to doing so for the entire ride.
> 
> ...


So yeah. Quoting my own post.

Forbidden got back to me. I was right. The primary purpose of the lower chain guide is not to prevent the chain from dropping, but to maximize the number of teeth on the ring making contact with the chain links.

They recommended not running it without the lower guide. I have one on the way.

So in the meantime, I have been riding my hardtail.

Pro tip - if you want your suspension on the Druid to feel plush AF, ride a hardtail for a while. No button fiddling required. Satisfaction guaranteed.

I feel like hammered $hit. That said, I think I am going to go full cray and get the rigid Unit (so to speak) out there tomorrow.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> I think I may have finally got the suspension [2021 Fox X2] figured out. LSR and HSR wide open, light on the LSC and only a hair more HSC . Job done! As an aside, I'm also running the 36 with wide open rebound. It's a little bouncy, so I'll likely add a click of damping, but it's pretty well matched to the back end.
> 
> People are starting to point and stare at the Druid on the trail, in parking lots and even while driving. It's becoming a local celebrity...


What's your rider weight? I'm running an X2 also and as expected, I have very little pop. In some respects, that works out for the type of riding I like to do (charging hard and fast) but I'd love to jib a little more on small obstacles.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So yeah.
> Forbidden got back to me. I was right. The primary purpose of the lower chain guide is not to prevent the chain from dropping, but to maximize the number of teeth on the ring making contact with the chain links.
> 
> They recommended not running it without the lower guide..


I'm no engineer, but i struggle with that response. Any teeth past the 6 o'clock position of the centerline are basically doing nothing. A guide forcing wrap on the backside of the chainring doesn't help distribute load as the chain is on the return back to the derailleur. The lack of wrap does create issues but thats in the 12, 1, and 2 0'clock positions. I can tell you firsthand that oval rings dont play well with idlers. SX and Highlander dont have guides from the manufacturer.

Id ride it and see what you think. You might like it.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> I'm no engineer, but i struggle with that response. Any teeth past the 6 o'clock position of the centerline are basically doing nothing. A guide forcing wrap on the backside of the chainring doesn't help distribute load as the chain is on the return back to the derailleur. The lack of wrap does create issues but thats in the 12, 1, and 2 0'clock positions. I can tell you firsthand that oval rings dont play well with idlers. SX and Highlander dont have guides from the manufacturer.
> 
> Id ride it and see what you think. You might like it.


I got the same reply from forbidden. 
Also depends on what size chainring you run as to how many teeth will contact. The chain, unless stretched should Make even contact with teeth all around the chainring so extra chain wrap would potentially help but, also noted by forbidden, they did that to have the minimum teeth in contact with chain as detailed by most chainring/crank manufacturers.

Now that said, I removed mine and removed a link from my chain. Smooooothhh.

Now oval chainrings, if you can get the clocking dialed in then you may be in luck. The craftworks Enr Requires a 62.5degrees forward clocking (from memory) to account for the idler position. This may be differant for the druid as the idler will have been placed differantly.

As for me I just got rid of my oval all together


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> I got the same reply from forbidden.
> Also depends on what size chainring you run as to how many teeth will contact. The chain, unless stretched should Make even contact with teeth all around the chainring so extra chain wrap would potentially help but, also noted by forbidden, they did that to have the minimum teeth in contact with chain as detailed by most chainring/crank manufacturers.
> 
> Now that said, I removed mine and removed a link from my chain. Smooooothhh.
> ...


Forbidden also mentioned that the larger the frame, the less the problem.

I run an oval on my hard tail. I can't tell the difference. I would not dare run one on the Druid. It's already way too much of a Rube Goldberg Machine as it is (as some of my friends refer to it, lol).

And yes - I much prefer it guide-free, as I mentioned in a post above. Less drag, and quieter. No downside that I can see. Even if there is a risk as a result of less teeth making contact, what's the worst fall out? Wear on the drivetrain? Whatevs.

That said, I am going to install it once it arrives. Cuz I am a rule follower. It's how I am hard wired.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Forbidden also mentioned that the larger the frame, the less the problem.
> 
> I run an oval on my hard tail. I can't tell the difference. I would not dare run one on the Druid. It's already way too much of a Rube Goldberg Machine as it is (as some of my friends refer to it, lol).
> 
> ...


You should be able to position it so that it is only slightly in contact with the chasing to reduce the Friction it imposes.
I did how ever manage to drop a chain at golden Mountain resort because I had it too loose. Potentially chain was too loose as well thought


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> You should be able to position it so that it is only slightly in contact with the chasing to reduce the Friction it imposes.
> I did how ever manage to drop a chain at golden Mountain resort because I had it too loose. Potentially chain was too loose as well thought


Agreed. I think it was positioned with way too much friction, which was likely the reason it disintegrated. I don't have that many miles on it. I would say "moderate mileage", relative to other bikes.

I will install the new one much more loosely.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Alanc12 said:


> Now oval chainrings, if you can get the clocking dialed in then you may be in luck. The craftworks Enr Requires a 62.5degrees forward clocking (from memory) to account for the idler position. This may be differant for the druid as the idler will have been placed differantly.
> 
> As for me I just got rid of my oval all together


Unfortunately it's not the clocking, its the ovality itself. Bikes with idlers are only using about 90* of the chainring while a traditional bike is around 270*. As one side of the oval is ramping up, the other side is ramping down maintaining a consistent chain length. So much so, you can run ovals on singlespeed bikes. I have the same chainring on three bikes and the high pivot is the only one that does this. Pedaling feels odd, like the pedal is falling away from you as you compress it. Will switch back to round ring when I start riding it again. The rest of the bikes are great with the ovals so they'll stay.

Here's a video to demonstrate the chain growth on my rig with a 32t oval. I'd imagine a guide would just exacerbate the issue.

VIDEO:


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

ATXZJ said:


> Unfortunately it's not the clocking, its the ovality itself. Bikes with idlers are only using about 90* of the chainring while a traditional bike is around 270*. As one side of the oval is ramping up, the other side is ramping down maintaining a consistent chain length. So much so, you can run ovals on singlespeed bikes. I have the same chainring on three bikes and the high pivot is the only one that does this. Pedaling feels odd, like the pedal is falling away from you as you compress it. Will switch back to round ring when I start riding it again. The rest of the bikes are great with the ovals so they'll stay.
> 
> Here's a video to demonstrate the chain growth on my rig with a 32t oval. I'd imagine a guide would just exacerbate the issue.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this. Was always confused by the oval issue on HP bikes until now.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi, with the discussion on this guideless topic, I'm quite inclined to go towards this this direction. I will be on a non oval 32T chainring with Eagle 50T, on a M size frame. As per recommended, it should be on 126 links with guide, should I reduce 1 links without the guide? Thanks.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It will be sad to see you go. I consider you to be one of the true Druid OGs.
> 
> Are you prepared to share what bike is displacing the Druid as your #1?


Commencal Meta TR29


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

*Frame storage*

So I got a bit crafty today, and turned the saddle bag into frame storage. Looks tidy if you ask me.
Mount some holes in the back of bag for frame bolts to slot through then a peice of plastic on the inside of bag to lock it in.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

revver said:


> Hi, with the discussion on this guideless topic, I'm quite inclined to go towards this this direction. I will be on a non oval 32T chainring with Eagle 50T, on a M size frame. As per recommended, it should be on 126 links with guide, should I reduce 1 links without the guide? Thanks.


I wouldn't unless you have to. I didn't and things were fine. And I ADDED links to my chain when it was built.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> So I got a bit crafty today, and turned the saddle bag into frame storage. Looks tidy if you ask me.
> Mount some holes in the back of bag for frame bolts to slot through then a peice of plastic on the inside of bag to lock it in.


That looks nice. Hopefully whatever you put in there does not get ground into powder.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That looks nice. Hopefully whatever you put in there does not get ground into powder.


Haha thanks. Yea I'm thinking multi tool, maybe a c02 and some snacks. Always have to have trail snacks


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Alanc12 said:


> I'm 100% down with that, I'm not sure how keen forbidden would be as they don't even allow a 160mn fork. Voids warrenty


Kind of confused how 10mm increase would void the warranty. I can see how 120 to 160mm would. But I'll leave that up to Forbidden to describe.

I kind of wonder what their pro riders are running? 160mm front w/ 140mm rear maybe?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

YogiKudo said:


> Commencal Meta TR29


Nice! I am considering this option as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I had two Eurpoean dudes at West Bragg Sunday ask me 50 questions at the can before the ride. I referred them to Inside Line.
> 
> For the most part though, zero attention. People are dialled into their own world out there. Pretty sure every rider thinks their own bike is hot AF and isn't really looking too far beyond it.
> 
> I got WAY more attention last year with the Druid. People knew what it was and were amazed to see it in the wild. This year? Not so much.


is there a podcast with forbidden on the inside line? been trying to find it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

onawave said:


> is there a podcast with forbidden on the inside line? been trying to find it.


Sorry for the confusion on my part. What I meant was that Inside Line is the local Forbidden dealer.

There are a number of posters in this thread who have been very happy with the level of service they have received from Inside Line (including myself).

I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have a local Forbidden dealer with an owner and employees who are all serious bada$$ riders, who ride Druids and are familiar with every square centimetre of them, and who are suspension experts and mechanical surgeons. Plus they have stock!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Kmag76 said:


> Nice! I am considering this option as well.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was also chewing over the Meta TR 29, but chose the lower travel Druid as a better option for most of my riding.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Well. Got my XL cosmic eggplant monday on schedule, built it up over two evenings. She's quite a looker, still getting all my orange accessories and stickers in place. First ride Wednesday morning was a blast, could certainly feel drag but still set some climbing PRs. I know part of the drag is my cane creek neo BB that will wear in a bit. Second ride Thursday evening went and found some technical chunk, set some PRs on a huge rock garden loop.

Afterwards... noticed I had a serious creak going on somewhere in the rear end, bad enough for me to bail out to the nearest pavement. Have since had a friend and I go over it narrowing it down to somewhere in the linkage, but after retorquing all the pivots it persists, bit annoying. We pulled off the main pivot cover and one of the linkage bolts, both appeared to be greased decently, but is there somewhere else I should start looking before I tear it all apart and regrease?

Also, noticed the lower guide could be a bit better aligned with the chain line in my xtr 9100 setup, but doesn't look like there's a way to do so?

Stoked on how awesome the bike feels, I'm glad I went with XL, certainly hard to pop the front up while seated, but actually not as hard as I expected while standing, but hope I can figure out this creak to go ride again, bummed having missed one opportunity so soon.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Wander512 said:


> Well. Got my XL cosmic eggplant monday on schedule, built it up over two evenings. She's quite a looker, still getting all my orange accessories and stickers in place. First ride Wednesday morning was a blast, could certainly feel drag but still set some climbing PRs. I know part of the drag is my cane creek neo BB that will wear in a bit. Second ride Thursday evening went and found some technical chunk, set some PRs on a huge rock garden loop.
> 
> Afterwards... noticed I had a serious creak going on somewhere in the rear end, bad enough for me to bail out to the nearest pavement. Have since had a friend and I go over it narrowing it down to somewhere in the linkage, but after retorquing all the pivots it persists, bit annoying. We pulled off the main pivot cover and one of the linkage bolts, both appeared to be greased decently, but is there somewhere else I should start looking before I tear it all apart and regrease?
> 
> ...


I had creaking from the rear end somewhere, I've since removed regrease and re torqued everything including bb, and shock. I did find the bearings in my Linkage was not centred, so I've pressed those in to be even.
More often than note its the bb in my experience. But you should always thread lock your pivot bolts on a new bike


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> I had creaking from the rear end somewhere, I've since removed regrease and re torqued everything including bb, and shock. I did find the bearings in my Linkage was not centred, so I've pressed those in to be even.
> More often than note its the bb in my experience. But you should always thread lock your pivot bolts on a new bike


Yeah I expected BB right away, but actually slipped the chain off and depressurized the shock to actuate the linkage without any crank/drivetrain movement, still there. I will say the pivot cover screw and other pieces seems to have well applied threadlocker, tomorrow I'll just go through with grease.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Wander512 said:


> Well. Got my XL cosmic eggplant monday on schedule, built it up over two evenings. She's quite a looker, still getting all my orange accessories and stickers in place. First ride Wednesday morning was a blast, could certainly feel drag but still set some climbing PRs. I know part of the drag is my cane creek neo BB that will wear in a bit. Second ride Thursday evening went and found some technical chunk, set some PRs on a huge rock garden loop.
> 
> Afterwards... noticed I had a serious creak going on somewhere in the rear end, bad enough for me to bail out to the nearest pavement. Have since had a friend and I go over it narrowing it down to somewhere in the linkage, but after retorquing all the pivots it persists, bit annoying. We pulled off the main pivot cover and one of the linkage bolts, both appeared to be greased decently, but is there somewhere else I should start looking before I tear it all apart and regrease?
> 
> ...


I had the same Neo BB on my Druid, and I was having some serious creaking going on. 
I went through everything on the bike. After pulling the drivetrain apart 3x, it turned out that my brand new. BB cup was fractured. 
I changed out the BB to a wheels mnf. And the creaking went away. 
This was a few months ago. And I've still yet to receive my "updated" Neo replacement

Maybe something to check?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)




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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I had the same Neo BB on my Druid, and I was having some serious creaking going on.
> I went through everything on the bike. After pulling the drivetrain apart 3x, it turned out that my brand new. BB cup was fractured.
> I changed out the BB to a wheels mnf. And the creaking went away.
> This was a few months ago. And I've still yet to receive my "updated" Neo replacement
> ...


Yikes, all the more reason to keep an eye/ear on it.

Hopefully got it sorted, went on a mission last night, full disassembled, regreased, reassembled, retorqued, only thing I hear now ripping around the yard/driveway is the air shock. Kinda silly I want to go coil just for looks/sounds at this rate.

The bearings seemed centered well enough, no wear on the spacers like above, so not sure what it was exactly. Hopefully nipped it in the bud.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Thanks for the video share. Interesting to listen to the sounds the bike is making. The clicks, clacks, rim strikes, all the various tire sounds... 

Bonus that it was interesting how the rider's style and mental game/attitude all the sudden changed with the mullet setup.

Can hear a clear strike at 15:44, but I think that's cause he just lazily floated in heavy on the back, and I'm guessing the rock hit just one edge of the rim at a side angle, rather than squarely centered vertically.

I think he rides too well, fast, and knows the track too well to catch anything particularly interesting. Would rather watch some slower guy huck into a rock that was angled upward, which normally would blow rims up.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Varaxis said:


> Thanks for the video share. Interesting to listen to the sounds the bike is making. The clicks, clacks, rim strikes, all the various tire sounds...
> 
> Bonus that it was interesting how the rider's style and mental game/attitude all the sudden changed with the mullet setup.
> 
> ...


PB article with the video and a few comments here:

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/video-l...-william-world-cup-track-on-a-trail-bike.html


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Varaxis said:


> Thanks for the video share. Interesting to listen to the sounds the bike is making. The clicks, clacks, rim strikes, all the various tire sounds...
> 
> Bonus that it was interesting how the rider's style and mental game/attitude all the sudden changed with the mullet setup.
> 
> ...


Haha if you wana watch an armature smash wheels into rocks then you should find my YouTube channel lol. If you also want to see and hear an amature get his socks off about how this bikes handles the grandly stuff lol
I managed to run a rock through a 5minute old tire on my first ride.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Trying out this MRP lower chainguide. The way I see it, I am losing 4 or so teeth of chainwrap that is helping keep the chain engaged. This captures the chain instead, essentially doing the same thing. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong though. I've had a few runs and don't notice any chain problems. Haven't hit anything super chunky yet though.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

krylon1892 said:


> View attachment 1355535
> 
> 
> Trying out this MRP lower chainguide. The way I see it, I am losing 4 or so teeth of chainwrap that is helping keep the chain engaged. This captures the chain instead, essentially doing the same thing. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong though. I've had a few runs and don't notice any chain problems. Haven't hit anything super chunky yet though.


Good thinking batman!
I can see that doing a good job if you can get it close enough to the chain so that it can't jump off. 
I keep. Comparing photos to the deviate and I don't think there is Much differance to the chain wrap between bikes to be honest.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

krylon1892 said:


> View attachment 1355535
> 
> 
> Trying out this MRP lower chainguide. The way I see it, I am losing 4 or so teeth of chainwrap that is helping keep the chain engaged. This captures the chain instead, essentially doing the same thing. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong though. I've had a few runs and don't notice any chain problems. Haven't hit anything super chunky yet though.





Alanc12 said:


> Good thinking batman!
> I can see that doing a good job if you can get it close enough to the chain so that it can't jump off.
> I keep. Comparing photos to the deviate and I don't think there is Much differance to the chain wrap between bikes to be honest.


Think thats a good compromise for someone still wanting to run a guide. Modern derailleurs/chains/chainrings are really good, and with HSP seeming to have a much more stable rear, chain drops seems even more rare.

Love that moss color also.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

krylon1892 said:


> View attachment 1355535
> 
> 
> Trying out this MRP lower chainguide. The way I see it, I am losing 4 or so teeth of chainwrap that is helping keep the chain engaged. This captures the chain instead, essentially doing the same thing. Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong though. I've had a few runs and don't notice any chain problems. Haven't hit anything super chunky yet though.


Looks clean. Why that over the stock set up though?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Looks clean. Why that over the stock set up though?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was switching back and forth with my friend the other day and realized that while I had gotten used to it, drag was a thing. Also, the stock one was rubbing on the rear tire that I am running.

I can't get multiquote to work any more.

The Deviate was what gave me confidence that this will probably be ok.

And I love the gloss moss! Finally something that works with these pink hubs.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

krylon1892 said:


> I was switching back and forth with my friend the other day and realized that while I had gotten used to it, drag was a thing. Also, the stock one was rubbing on the rear tire that I am running.
> 
> I can't get multiquote to work any more.
> 
> ...


FYI, I know that Forbidden was spec'ing the roller guide to increase teeth engagement. Without that, it likely puts more strain on the ring and the chain, not sure if a catastrophic chain break would happen or if it potentially stretches the chain out faster and possibly wears the ring faster too.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Energ8t said:


> FYI, I know that Forbidden was spec'ing the roller guide to increase teeth engagement. Without that, it likely puts more strain on the ring and the chain, not sure if a catastrophic chain break would happen or if it potentially stretches the chain out faster and possibly wears the ring faster too.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I can see more chain engagement for preventing dropped chain. Especially seeing as there is a lot more change in distance between the ring and derailleur than on normal suspension setups. But I think this MRP guide will do an adequate job preventing those. I am curious if those teeth extra teeth are doing anything to help with pedal forces? Given minute slop in chainring and chain and the different tensions between ring/cassette and between ring/derailleur. But maybe I am thinking about it wrong. Its still ten teeth engaged, which is more than a lot of sprockets in the cassette ever see. Anyway, I'd love to be educated on the mechanical theory and physics at work here.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Less chain wrap around the chainring makes the chainring itself more sensitive to chain wear, as the load is distributed/split across less teeth. Noise and skipping under torque...

Shouldn't be anything you're not used to, considering the idler. How long does that idler last anyways? I'd be surprised if it lasts more than 2 chains.

Be sure to check if you got the right chain length for the RD to work properly too. It would be like it were longer without the lower guide increasing chain wrap.


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

Wander512 said:


> Yikes, all the more reason to keep an eye/ear on it.
> 
> Hopefully got it sorted, went on a mission last night, full disassembled, regreased, reassembled, retorqued, only thing I hear now ripping around the yard/driveway is the air shock. Kinda silly I want to go coil just for looks/sounds at this rate.
> 
> The bearings seemed centered well enough, no wear on the spacers like above, so not sure what it was exactly. Hopefully nipped it in the bud.


I was wrong. Found some wear kinda similar to Alanc's post above (#1330).

























So the one wearing the paint off is part 28 on the drive side from their exploded view diagram. It didn't sit completely flush and was able to balance the cap on top of it, so I actually pushed it a hair back out using my presses incase it was just bottomed too far in there, which did quiet and smoothen the whole linkage down, but after 7-8 miles the creak came back :madman:

I'll be asking Forbidden what else I can do. I just want to ride this beautiful thing in peace of mind I'm not hurting it.


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## XZNathan (Aug 10, 2020)

Wander512 said:


> I was wrong. Found some wear kinda similar to Alanc's post above (#1330).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've had my Druid for about 2 weeks now and had a similar creaking on my last ride. I've pulled the shock off and cycled the suspension confirming the creak is coming from the linkage.

I plan on pulling it apart tonight and I guess I know what I should be expecting to find now. Keep us in the loop with the response from Forbidden!

Amazing bike, but hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

XZNathan said:


> I've had my Druid for about 2 weeks now and had a similar creaking on my last ride. I've pulled the shock off and cycled the suspension confirming the creak is coming from the linkage.
> 
> I plan on pulling it apart tonight and I guess I know what I should be expecting to find now. Keep us in the loop with the response from Forbidden!
> 
> Amazing bike, but hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..


Another thing to check is if you're running the new shimano 12 speed derailleur...you have take apart the clutch and clean them more often than you would think. I was chasing a creaking sound on my druid for a week or so....Striped everything down and cleaned it..Sound was still there. Turns out my stupid derailleur was the source! Cleaned the clutch system...bike is back to creak free!


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Wander512 said:


> Well. Got my XL cosmic eggplant monday on schedule, built it up over two evenings. She's quite a looker, still getting all my orange accessories and stickers in place. First ride Wednesday morning was a blast, could certainly feel drag but still set some climbing PRs. I know part of the drag is my cane creek neo BB that will wear in a bit. Second ride Thursday evening went and found some technical chunk, set some PRs on a huge rock garden loop.
> 
> Afterwards... noticed I had a serious creak going on somewhere in the rear end, bad enough for me to bail out to the nearest pavement. Have since had a friend and I go over it narrowing it down to somewhere in the linkage, but after retorquing all the pivots it persists, bit annoying. We pulled off the main pivot cover and one of the linkage bolts, both appeared to be greased decently, but is there somewhere else I should start looking before I tear it all apart and regrease?
> 
> ...


hey wander. i chased a creak in my new xt for weeks. i tried what i thought was everything multiple times. i took all the pivot axles out, regreased, and torqued each to spec at least three times. it would not go away, in fact it got louder and louder.

it's now officially gone. so here is how i found it: i could make my frame/suspension creak by flexing the rear wheel of my bike (one hand on the bar, one pushing and pulling the wheel). i could also make the frame creak by taking off the rear wheel, turning the bike upside down (you know, old school BMX handlebars and seat down) and pushing and pulling on the non-drive side chain stay. i could not get the sound pushing/pulling on the drive side chain stay. with this info, i developed the plan. remove/reinstall each pivot axle one at a time testing for the sound. i figured that at some point a removed pivot/pivot axle would mean that the damn creak would stop, and sure enough it did. immediately.

i pulled out the shock first. then did my creak test. it was gone! that meant that it was the shock bolts/mounts or.... the next most obvious element: the little linkage bolt that holds the two parts of the linkage together. i had already had noises from the shock/shock mounts, so i knew it wasn't them. i tested the linkage bolt, it wasn't tight and the spacers were dry. i can't believe that with all the prior work i had done that i never seriously checked that little pivot axle. so i cleaned it, regreased it, and torqued it to spec.

beautiful silence.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Curious if any really tall guys are on an XL? 
Super intrigued by the druid, but 6'6" coming off an XL guerrilla gravity has me thinking this wont be a big enough bike.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Curious if any really tall guys are on an XL?
> Super intrigued by the druid, but 6'6" coming off an XL guerrilla gravity has me thinking this wont be a big enough bike.


Gonna be small tight fit. I'm 6'2 on XL fit's me well. I'd be on a pole or g16 geometron if I was your height

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Wander512 (Jul 10, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Gonna be small tight fit. I'm 6'2 on XL fit's me well. I'd be on a pole or g16 geometron if I was your height
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Forbidden isn't pushing the reach/wheelbase number boundaries like those, but yeah have to agree. I'm 6'3" if I actually don't slouch and stand up straight, and glad I went XL. Should feel right up to about 6'4 or 6'5 and be playful, but at 6'6" this won't be a sled, that's for sure. Then again, at least the druid has some proper length chainstays, and they actually feel longer than the geo chart thanks to the rearward axle path.

Btw: Waiting on new bearing press that will actually fit properly instead of my cobbled bits of auto suspension bushing press to address my linkage creak.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Just to back up what others have said really. I'm 6' and for me, personally, I'm on the cusp of the large frame. I'm running a 50mm stem and there's some rearward bias to my saddle. Forbidden puts me in the middle of their recommended sizing for the large frame.

I could have sized up. My last two frames have both had 480mm reach and longer ETTs. Yet, 4 rides in and I'm starting to get the point of the Druid sizing and geo. It's a trail bike, it's quite poppy and lively and I feel I can move the bike around nicely beneath me. Which is a benefit of that smaller frame.

I'm currently enjoying getting to know the bike. The first couple of rides were a bit of a waste really as I spent very little time setting up the bike and was desperate to just get out and ride (the problem with a busy work-life and young family).

I'm now getting it dialled more. 20% (30mm) up front; 30% (19mm) out back. Although the latter is difficult to set with the shock being in the shock tunnel. Has anyone found a way around measuring this easily? I also feel it is a little too soft at 30%. Granted at the end of each ride the o-ring is perhaps a few mm from dropping off the end yet it feels too soft at times.

It's the forks I'm struggling with a bit as well. They're Fox 36 Factory '21. The HSR and LSR are set at Fox's recommendations yet I've already backed one off of the HSC recommendation and possibly 2 from the LSC. I say possibly as the LSC is supposed to have 16 clicks yet there are only 9 distinguishable clicks. So an additional 7 clicks in that range are indistinguishable or very vague at best. Has anyone else had this problem with the fork?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just shattered an all time personal record for a short after work ride with a typical up, up, up, down, down, down ride profile. Omg. I don’t think I have ever gone so fast on the downs on a bike in my life. 

I was thinking about a poster in another thread predicting that Jayem would be along soon to comment that non-Avalanche OEM forks suffer from “the jackhammer effect”. I was thinking about it, and candidly thought that I may suffer from this at times when really opening this bike up on the rooty, rocky downs. I thought that maybe something short of having to deal with Craig at Avalanche may be to try opening up both high and low speed rebound. Well I did. Only 1 click of both from full open (and yes - I appreciate that one accurately measures this by clicks from full CLOSED - whatever). Anyway, HOLY CRAP. 

I think I now have my 2019 150mm 36 GRIP2 fork fully dialled. I don’t think it can get any better than where I am at. That includes fully opened HSC, and about 5 clicks of LSC (again, from fully open). I know that most say LSC doesn’t work without some HSC but I can assure you that mine does. 

Happy to count from fully closed if anyone cares. 

For those of you having problems with your 36, try running HSC open, and HSR and LSR almost open. Maybe this will work for your too. 

I am going to have really great dreams tonight. I was launching that bike over and through gnarly scree and rooty sections. I am really happy. I think I have this bike where I want it. And wow - dialling the fork seems to have made my 11-6 feel 10x better. 

Super happy at the moment.

PS - absolutely awesome climbing tonight too. Wow. 

PPS - Fox’s recommended settings for this fork are now officially out the window.

PPPS - I should also mention that I rode packless tonight. I rarely do. I spent so much time obsessing over the perfect packless setups for this bike and my hard tail, yet I rarely ride packless. But when I do, magic happens.

PPPPS - I ride light on my bike. This may not work at all for someone more hard charging who is throwing it off drops, especially to flat, or otherwise riding like Richie Rude.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

has anyone rode their druid as a mullet? id be keen to hear feedback on this - after watching lewis buchanan ride his.


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

onawave said:


> has anyone rode their druid as a mullet? id be keen to hear feedback on this - after watching lewis buchanan ride his.


Soon! Wheel is laced and just needs tensioning! All my suspension on its way to Canada so Vorsprung can do tricky things, too. Gonna try that Secus thing.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

krylon1892 said:


> Soon! Wheel is laced and just needs tensioning! All my suspension on its way to Canada so Vorsprung can do tricky things, too. Gonna try that Secus thing.


Nice. Very exciting on all fronts.

I went the inexpensive Vorsprung route with the Luftkappe. As I said in my post above, things are about as close to perfect as they can be with that fork. In fact, after blowing through numerous offerings, including from Manitou, RockShox And DVO, this fork is the best fork I have had. It took me a while and things were a crap sandwich for A bit while I figured out how to dial it in, but I have finally managed to get it where I have always wanted it.

I fully expect that the Secus will be next level.

I may go full coil next season with the Smashpot but for now, the Luftkappe does not disappoint.

Congrats and please keep us posted.


----------



## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice. Very exciting on all fronts.
> 
> I went the inexpensive Vorsprung route with the Luftkappe. As I said in my post above, things are about as close to perfect as they can be with that fork. In fact, after blowing through numerous offerings, including from Manitou, RockShox And DVO, this fork is the best fork I have had. It took me a while and things were a crap sandwich for A bit while I figured out how to dial it in, but I have finally managed to get it where I have always wanted it.
> 
> ...


I've had a Luftkappe and a Fit4 with the fractive tune in for 2.5 years and it has been the best fork I've ever ridden. Been on like four bikes. I trust what those guys say completely because of that. There is no real need to upgrade except to satiate my endless curiosity. And the rear suspension is so good, I've started to pay attention to the fork again.

Will keep this thread updated.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

*Any tips for intial setup?*

Hey all - been forever since I posted on MTBR, so long that I can't retrieve my old username.

Anyway..

I'm looking forward to hopefully seeing my frame ship today as the final piece of the build. I went through Fanatik as I have no dealers near me (East Coast) and have mixed feelings about the experience thus far - if anyone's on the fence about using them I can elaborate. 
I came here to see if anyone wishes they'd done something differently when they were building - I've seen the recent posts about the creaking/linkage bearings etc so will definitely keep an eye on those. Is there anything else you guys have noticed or wished you'd done differently?

FWIW I've never owned a 29'er before and am going with the mullet from the get-go. The ziggy link and ability to go from 29 to mullet was part of what sold me on the druid so am pretty pumped to get on the bike.

Any insights appreciated!


----------



## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

onawave said:


> has anyone rode their druid as a mullet? id be keen to hear feedback on this - after watching lewis buchanan ride his.


Yep. Not as exciting as I thought it'd be.

It's more lively and easier to ride on the really narrow single track. Certainly less quick than the 29er in certain scenarios (using Freelap timing to confirm).

I'd like to spend more time on it back to back with similar wheel setups. My 29er wheelset is aluminium and my 27.5 is carbon.


----------



## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi all, 
Should be building up my Druid soon as the frame have landed in my country as per the distributor. I am around 149lbs geared, may I know what kind of pressure and clickers settings you guys are having in the DPX2? I understand from going through this forum that the Druid like a little more sag at 30% to 33%.
Thanks.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

_HENDO_ said:


> Yep. Not as exciting as I thought it'd be.
> 
> It's more lively and easier to ride on the really narrow single track. Certainly less quick than the 29er in certain scenarios (using Freelap timing to confirm).
> 
> I'd like to spend more time on it back to back with similar wheel setups. My 29er wheelset is aluminium and my 27.5 is carbon.


yeah interesting. i have dibs on their enduro bike when it comes out - i wonder if it will a better ride on the bigger bike.

i would think so - but who knows.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> yeah interesting. i have dibs on their enduro bike when it comes out - i wonder if it will a better ride on the bigger bike.
> 
> i would think so - but who knows.


So I seen a photos with a blacked out bike from an employee of forbidden, and also lew Buchanan recently posted he received a fox 38. Fox 38 doesn't run 150 does it???


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Another killer ride tonight. 

My lower chain guide must have **** the bed early on because there is negligible drag with the new one installed. 

I have been able to ride packless or with my Bontrager Rapid hip pack only, the last few rides. I have hydrated pre and have either ridden with no hydration or have carried a G2 in the Rapid. My bottle cage has a dedicated bear spray canister in it every ride, so no hydration carrying capacity there. 

Anyway, yeah. I’m getting tons of mileage in daily, I’m riding packless, the temps have dropped, and I have my bike 100% dialled. Plus I have dropped the chamois diaper lameness entirely. I have never felt stronger on any bike in my life as I do at this very moment. 

My Druid is a fountain of joy on wheels. It inspires me to get back out on it the minute the last ride ends. 100% on the stoke meter.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> So I seen a photos with a blacked out bike from an employee of forbidden, and also lew Buchanan recently posted he received a fox 38. Fox 38 doesn't run 150 does it???


I heard through the grapevine that there is a hold up with the longer travel Forbidden bike. Being a small producer, Forbidden gets bumped on frame manufacturing when there are issues with the big dogs, of which there have been plenty. I heard 2021 is the new target. Could be total BS though. Who knows.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I heard through the grapevine that there is a hold up with the longer travel Forbidden bike. Being a small producer, Forbidden gets bumped on frame manufacturing when there are issues with the big dogs, of which there have been plenty. I heard 2021 is the new target. Could be total BS though. Who knows.


Honestly, I was trying to hold out for the bigger bike, but I seen my chance for the cosmic egg plant and I took it. The way I see it, this bike is plenty capable on the chunky stuff, more so than I could ever put it through. Lew buchanan proved that in his recent video(and every other one for that matter) but the best part is that it can be a super playful bike on flat trails and even climb like an xc bike, well compared to my last bike anyways. 
It's kinda the perfect blend of every bike yould need. Not too heavily slanted in any discipline.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> So I seen a photos with a blacked out bike from an employee of forbidden, and also lew Buchanan recently posted he received a fox 38. Fox 38 doesn't run 150 does it???


fox 38 is 160 and up i thought.

travel on the enduro version is 170 front and 154 rear (ive been told)


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> Honestly, I was trying to hold out for the bigger bike, but I seen my chance for the cosmic egg plant and I took it. The way I see it, this bike is plenty capable on the chunky stuff, more so than I could ever put it through. Lew buchanan proved that in his recent video(and every other one for that matter) but the best part is that it can be a super playful bike on flat trails and even climb like an xc bike, well compared to my last bike anyways.
> It's kinda the perfect blend of every bike yould need. Not too heavily slanted in any discipline.


yeah - this is my only dilemma.

most of the stuff i ride is perfect for the druid. however - i do ride some pretty gnarly stuff on occasion - and the crew i ride with are leaning towards shuttling more and more.

so to me - i think it makes more sense to stick with the bigger version when it comes out - and let it fix all my bid riding mistakes.

that way i can literally take it everywhere.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> yeah - this is my only dilemma.
> 
> most of the stuff i ride is perfect for the druid. however - i do ride some pretty gnarly stuff on occasion - and the crew i ride with are leaning towards shuttling more and more.
> 
> ...


Yea man gotta do what you think works. I came to a druid from a canyon torque. Freeride bike 180 upfront and 175 in the rear. It looks after you in those oh [email protected] moments.
But the speed you can attack that stuff at on the druid is truly amazing. I have absolutly no proof but I sware the druid is much faster than the big bike.


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## Crashmtber (Aug 14, 2020)

Hi there from Aus - it’s taken me about 3 days straight to read threw the whole forum . I’m blowen away about this bike but also the posts I have learnt a lot & am totally sold on buying this rig 

I was about to buy my third bike Ibis Ripmo walked into the shop to do the deal & seen this weird thing (bike) I had never seen before . I was straight away intrigued 

I have a YT Jeffsy 2018 29” & love the bike but was searching for more in an aggressive trail bike 

went home and just started watching & then found this forum , so thx guys for all the great info it really has made the decision very easy 

I’m 6,1” (186cm) neat weighing 83 when I suck my belly in 
I have a shorter arm reach of 174cm (most people have the same arm wing span as total height ). Inner leg 85cm 

with my Jeffsy I always felt like it was a half a size to small . So I feel like the XL is the way to go .Just seeing your guys thoughts ???

Also it’s a 6-8 weeks wait on shipping to Aus and the only XL colour they are bringing down under is “Mr Brownstone “ which is a cool colour


----------



## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I'm 6'1 with a L and wouldn't size up.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Crashmtber said:


> Hi there from Aus - it's taken me about 3 days straight to read threw the whole forum . I'm blowen away about this bike but also the posts I have learnt a lot & am totally sold on buying this rig
> 
> I was about to buy my third bike Ibis Ripmo walked into the shop to do the deal & seen this weird thing (bike) I had never seen before . I was straight away intrigued
> 
> ...


Did you walk into Summit in Melbourne?


----------



## Crashmtber (Aug 14, 2020)

onawave said:


> Did you walk into Summit in Melbourne?


No , but i did ring Sydney summit they told me that the next two shipments are already sold . But I live in the mid north coast in a place called Coffs Harbour & Woodseys Wheels is the dealer for this area .

when I walked into his shop the other day he was doing a Druid build for another customer & I was totally gobbed smacked by the design

He rang the rep yesterday who was on holidays but received a sms back from him saying that he could get a XL bike in 6-8wks time but will have to clarify hopefully early next week

if you have any info on getting a bike in Aus I would greatly appreciate it

by the way I have loved your input threw out the forum


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Crashmtber said:


> No , but i did ring Sydney summit they told me that the next two shipments are already sold . But I live in the mid north coast in a place called Coffs Harbour & Woodseys Wheels is the dealer for this area .
> 
> when I walked into his shop the other day he was doing a Druid build for another customer & I was totally gobbed smacked by the design
> 
> ...


yeah man that delivery timeline sounds about right.

i havent ridden one, but the reviews are stellar.

good luck with the purchase.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Alright finally got around to putting videos of my first rides on the druid up online. Feal free to check them out, this one is has a few of my early ride thoughts and taking it down some chunky trails including the crankworx dh trail at kicking Horse.
If your like me you and havnt yet got this bike, then youve probably been searching for amatures riding this bike too see how they can handle the rough stuff.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> Alright finally got around to putting videos of my first rides on the druid up online. Feal free to check them out, this one is has a few of my early ride thoughts and taking it down some chunky trails including the crankworx dh trail at kicking Horse.
> If your like me you and havnt yet got this bike, then youve probably been searching for amatures riding this bike too see how they can handle the rough stuff.


awesome video. amazing u went from a canyon freeride bike to this and were sending dh tracks on it.

was hard to hear your commentary though (understandable as it was pretty spicey!)

but the tracks speak for themselves.

do you think you push the bike to its limit? did you feel held back from the lack of travel?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> awesome video. amazing u went from a canyon freeride bike to this and were sending dh tracks on it.
> 
> was hard to hear your commentary though (understandable as it was pretty spicey!)
> 
> ...


Haha thnks man. 
Yea just using gopro so audio isn't the best compared to the pro you tubers.

Man This bike has got plenty left. I feal like I'm only going to get quicker and quicker on this thing. 
I was almost afraid to let it run, the acceleration of it is amazing and it almost begs you to take bonus point lines and jump off/over anything you can.

So two answer your questions, no way does the bike hold me back and in now way am I near its limit.

This was my 2nd day on the bike and this is the 1st 29er I've ever ridden.


----------



## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Been working through settings on the Fox Float X2 (MY19) for the past few months and here's the settings I ended up at.

Rider Weight kitted up: 225
Volume Spacer Rings: 0
PSI: 225
LSR: 23
HSR: 16
LSC: 19
HSC: 14
^^Clicks from full "Closed"


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

I'm going to have my PUSH 11.6 up on Pinkbike in a couple of days for those so inclined. I'm 190 loaded, 450 lbs. spring. Stock settings. J


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

YogiKudo said:


> I'm going to have my PUSH 11.6 up on Pinkbike in a couple of days for those so inclined. I'm 190 loaded, 450 lbs. spring. Stock settings. J


Where are you located and what price range


----------



## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> Where are you located and what price range


I am on Vancouver Island AKA Forbiddenville. Price TBA. J


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

YogiKudo said:


> I'm going to have my PUSH 11.6 up on Pinkbike in a couple of days for those so inclined. I'm 190 loaded, 450 lbs. spring. Stock settings. J


why are you selling if you dont mind me asking?


----------



## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

onawave said:


> why are you selling if you dont mind me asking?


I have nothing to attach it to.


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## donkey88 (Sep 20, 2005)

I’m in Victoria and am interested in your 11/6 shock Yogi!


----------



## dhben (Aug 16, 2020)

Crashmtber said:


> Hi there from Aus - it's taken me about 3 days straight to read threw the whole forum . I'm blowen away about this bike but also the posts I have learnt a lot & am totally sold on buying this rig
> 
> I was about to buy my third bike Ibis Ripmo walked into the shop to do the deal & seen this weird thing (bike) I had never seen before . I was straight away intrigued
> 
> ...


Sorry, but this is a lie.

I have ordered a XL Eggplant thru Summit, due end of August.

Next availability in Aus is now next year


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## Crashmtber (Aug 14, 2020)

dhben said:


> Sorry, but this is a lie.
> 
> I have ordered a XL Eggplant thru Summit, due end of August.
> 
> Next availability in Aus is now next year


Sick colour - what size are you ??? I'm 6,1"


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

dhben said:


> Sorry, but this is a lie.
> 
> I have ordered a XL Eggplant thru Summit, due end of August.
> 
> Next availability in Aus is now next year


i rekon its about right based on when he asked the question.


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## YogiKudo (May 12, 2013)

donkey88 said:


> I'm in Victoria and am interested in your 11/6 shock Yogi!


Sent you a PM


----------



## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-is-this-forbidden-bike-companys-new-longer-travel-bike.html


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

alan1 said:


> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-is-this-forbidden-bike-companys-new-longer-travel-bike.html


Is it the same with a differant linkage almost


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Alanc12 said:


> Is it the same with a differant linkage almost


I can't tell the difference from the photo's. The blue 1 behind it is a mullet Druid.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

alan1 said:


> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-is-this-forbidden-bike-companys-new-longer-travel-bike.html


froth


----------



## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Besides having a longer fork and lack of decals, can see some differences here if you compare the pics side-by-side.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> froth


Kinda think hey just tweeted geo to allow more travel with out destroying the ride qaulity. Obviously there will be a few little things here and there that they have learnt from the druid.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

To spell it out: trunnion front mount and slightly longer linkage driving the shock (looks CNC'd). The silver fastener that marks the other end of the shock seems a little further rearward and a bit upward. They basically squeezed a longer shock in mostly the same frame. Would be clever if the trunnion tweak doesn't need much of a carbon mold change, just tweaking the metal bits.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> Kinda think hey just tweeted geo to allow more travel with out destroying the ride qaulity. Obviously there will be a few little things here and there that they have learnt from the druid.


makes sense.


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## donkey88 (Sep 20, 2005)

For those running coil rear shocks, what spring rate are you going with for your weight?


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Varaxis said:


> View attachment 1357869
> 
> 
> View attachment 1357871
> ...


Definitely got the tingles when I saw this on PB. This new rig with a mullet linkage.....OMFG


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

ATXZJ said:


> Definitely got the tingles when I saw this on PB. This new rig with a mullet linkage.....OMFG


im hoping the offer this as soon as its released. if so - i will probably go the mullet setup


----------



## ScrubNub (Feb 16, 2015)

donkey88 said:


> For those running coil rear shocks, what spring rate are you going with for your weight?


I'm 79-80kgs and I'm running a 400lbs spring with my storia. I've also got the 425.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

donkey88 said:


> For those running coil rear shocks, what spring rate are you going with for your weight?


185 lbs plus clothes and gear. 450 lb spring on the 11-6.

I thought it might be a little too much at first, and that a 425 lb spring would have been more plush. However, I confused the harshness of my fork with the shock. Now that I have the fork dialled the shock is incredible. The whole thing is incredible.

One minor tweak I did was add Deathgrip grips.

I am on such a roll with this bike right now. Those grips are the best grips I have ever used. I can't seem to do any wrong with this bike right now.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

looks like lewis is riding the enduro version in his latest video?


----------



## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

onawave said:


> looks like lewis is riding the enduro version in his latest video?


Yeah it is

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Here it is, Mullet able as well.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

alan1 said:


> Here it is, Mullet able as well.


Haha soo who wants to buy a new druid frame


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Alanc12 said:


> Haha soo who wants to buy a new druid frame


Hard call at the moment haha. The 130mm version is pretty damn capable right now so I'm not sure if I'd give it up yet.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Hard call at the moment haha. The 130mm version is pretty damn capable right now so I'm not sure if I'd give it up yet.


In all honesty I don't think I would at the moment either.
Just got back from a ride with my 3year old son on the shotgun seat in front. Knocked out some PB's on climbing sections. And that's vs my old bike with just me On it.

I feal the druid is an awesome blend of trail agility mixed with enduro chunk smasher. 
Also forbidden could Capatilise big Time if they made an alternative link to step the travel in the rear up to 140-145.
That said I've just ordered my Mullet link


----------



## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> In all honesty I don't think I would at the moment either.
> Just got back from a ride with my 3year old son on the shotgun seat in front. Knocked out some PB's on climbing sections. And that's vs my old bike with just me On it.
> 
> I feal the druid is an awesome blend of trail agility mixed with enduro chunk smasher.
> ...


Hell yea on alternative link!Would love 160/140mm Druid.


----------



## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Does anyone in North America want to part with their Ziggy link? I need one to hopefully keep this bike more trail friendly with the BB.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

alan1 said:


> Here it is, Mullet able as well.


holy mother of froth


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

erdawe said:


> Does anyone in North America want to part with their Ziggy link? I need one to hopefully keep this bike more trail friendly with the BB.


I'm not following. Can you please explain what you hope to achieve with the Ziggy Link to make it more trail friendly?


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm not following. Can you please explain what you hope to achieve with the Ziggy Link to make it more trail friendly?


Does this mean he's got a 170mm fork and needs to. Lower the bb


----------



## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

onawave said:


> holy mother of froth


When I google froth I get:
worthless or insubstantial talk, ideas, or activities.

I think the videos are great and the bike is nice. Why do you think the pictures/videos are worthless?


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Resurgence said:


> When I google froth I get:
> worthless or insubstantial talk, ideas, or activities.
> 
> I think the videos are great and the bike is nice. Why do you think the pictures/videos are worthless?


weirdest question.

you would need to understand slang to understand the use of the terminology.

if i use urban dictionary however to answer your question:

Froth
When a girl gets so turned on by a man or a woman, that her vagina begins overflowing with wetness. Then, her vagina churns the wetness, like churning milk into butter, until it turns into foam. That foam is froth. It's sticky, moist, and thick, and feels awesome when you rub it on your cock/****. Like the **** at the top of a cappuccino, or a root beer float.
_Guy 1: On a scale of soy milk to root beer float, how frothy was she?
Guy 2: She was like a grande mochaccino.

Guy 1: Man, I sent that ***** a winkie face.
Guy 2: She must be so frothy right now. We're gonna be able to surf over to her on a sea of froth.

Guy 1: I went to a foam party last night.
Guy 2: Oh, word? Where did you go?
Guy 1: To Mary's frothy vajee._
*by Slobby McKnobberson, Sr. September 25, 2010

that probably sums up my feelings perfectly *


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> weirdest question.
> 
> you would need to understand slang to understand the use of the terminology.
> 
> ...


That's potentially the best post on this forum. I would have replied faster but I couldn't see for the tears in ym eyes.


----------



## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

Clearly I'm using the wrong dictionary. Now I get it!
Thanks

Does anyone have a prediction when this new bike will be available for sale?


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Resurgence said:


> Clearly I'm using the wrong dictionary. Now I get it!
> Thanks
> 
> Does anyone have a prediction when this new bike will be available for sale?


early release around November maybe a tad earlier in the states.

standard release around next march.

thank covid for not having a bigger release. they are still really a small bike company.


----------



## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

onawave said:


> weirdest question.
> 
> you would need to understand slang to understand the use of the terminology.
> 
> ...


 LMFAO

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Set-up with a Push Eleven Six R and the new Secus.
Been too busy and too hot for an evening ride, so haven't tested the Secus thoroughly. That said, I tore this b*tch through some neigborhood boulder features and the Secus feels so nice. I also confirmed during rebuild that the bushings feel tight. I'll deal with that on the next 50 hour fork service while I either locate a shop with the right tools in town or purchase the burnishing tool.

FYI, the Secus feels like a Luftkappe on steroids... so far.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Resurgence said:


> Clearly I'm using the wrong dictionary. Now I get it!
> Thanks
> 
> Does anyone have a prediction when this new bike will be available for sale?


The average Joe will not have access until 2021. How early in 2021 is anyone's guess.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Set-up with a Push Eleven Six R and the new Secus.
> Been too busy and too hot for an evening ride, so haven't tested the Secus thoroughly. That said, I tore this b*tch through some neigborhood boulder features and the Secus feels so nice. I also confirmed during rebuild that the bushings feel tight. I'll deal with that on the next 50 hour fork service while I either locate a shop with the right tools in town or purchase the burnishing tool.
> 
> FYI, the Secus feels like a Luftkappe on steroids... so far.
> ...


Next. Level.


----------



## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm not following. Can you please explain what you hope to achieve with the Ziggy Link to make it more trail friendly?


To the other guy, Lol at 170mm fork on this bike, this bike was designed with a 140-150 mm fork in mind. This is a very capable bike but IMO the geo is too wacky beyond 160mm with those lower AC forks. Also the ziggy link raises BB which the BB would already be high at 170mm.

This isn't the bike I want for long-travel enduro bike to pedal around. It's best prob at 150 if you want lean All Mountain trail and 140 form for general trail. A 140 mezzer on this bike would be sick. Most people run 150 up front as they want the fork to perform with the rear. Geo on paper little more balanced reach woth 140 fork.

The ziggy link allows full plus mode without the draggy lower guide pulley. I am rebuilding my Druid from a long travel smasher 29er with a PUSH shock and back into a 140ish trail bike with semi light build and an inline coil than can either run full plus or 29 trail wheeler.

My long travel bikes I like Yeti with its highly engaging pedaling feel to counter the sloggy-ness long travel can bring to pedal feel. They just feel so energetic even with coil on the gas. The pedaling of the Druid feels taught, but more clinical feeling efficient. I think it will be great for very long days trail riding, backycountry exploration with natural trails. Great for ledgy climbs, you just want to get up.

I almost sold the bike, but it will be built back up soon, first as 29 since I dont have the ziggy link.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

erdawe said:


> To the other guy, Lol at 170mm fork on this bike, this bike was designed with a 140-150 mm fork in mind. This is a very capable bike but IMO the geo is too wacky beyond 160mm with those lower AC forks. Also the ziggy link raises BB which the BB would already be high at 170mm.
> 
> This isn't the bike I want for long-travel enduro bike to pedal around. It's best prob at 150 if you want lean All Mountain trail and 140 form for general trail. A 140 mezzer on this bike would be sick. Most people run 150 up front as they want the fork to perform with the rear. Geo on paper little more balanced reach woth 140 fork.
> 
> ...


Thanks. So you plan to use the Ziggy Link with a full 29er set up to raise the BB?

I had virtually no pedal strikes on this bike until recently. A month and a half ago I rode a very rocky, very techy, very long trail one day in 30+ degree heat. I was gassed from prior rides before I even got on my bike. I ripped two pins out of my pedals that day. Apart from that, at 150 in the front and full length 175mm cranks, I never get pedal strikes on this bike.

I wouldn't want to run 140 on this bike. Not for the terrain I ride. My 36 was originally 140 and I converted it to 150 because I thought it was a much better fit for the Druid.

In my experience, whatever fork you use on that bike, it needs all the help it can get to keep up with the shock. There have been people in this thread who said a coil converted fork couldn't keep up with the stock DPX2. I don't know. I can't really see a 140 being better than a 150 in many (if any) circumstances.

That's just me though. No right or wrong answer with any of this stuff. Way too many variables involved.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I imagine that we've all seen Buchanan's test of the new Forbidden Pagan [that's what I'm calling it].

I don't know how tall he is, but his sizing down from a large Druid to a medium is interesting. The Pagan is more planted and stable than the Druid at speed, based on his comments. Logically, it's slacker, longer and a tad heavier as well. He's got a Fox 38 up front [I think], which likely means 170 fork travel.

The rear suspension works so well that there doesn't seem to be a need to go beyond 150mm travel in the rear, and if they're able to use what looks to be the stock Ziggy link, they might even be using the same shock size, which would be FANTASTIC. Those of us who have dropped in an 11-6 or X2 and want to change frames could just do the swap and carry on.

I'm definitely looking at the Pagan to replace the Druid. For the riding I'm going to be doing in the future, I think that selling the DH bike and using the Pagan for bike park and gnarly trail duty will work. I have a hardtail for the smoother rides.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> I imagine that we've all seen Buchanan's test of the new Forbidden Pagan [that's what I'm calling it].
> 
> I don't know how tall he is, but his sizing down from a large Druid to a medium is interesting. The Pagan is more planted and stable than the Druid at speed, based on his comments. Logically, it's slacker, longer and a tad heavier as well. He's got a Fox 38 up front [I think], which likely means 170 fork travel.
> 
> ...


i agree, but ill be sticking with a large. im a smidge of 5'11 myself, but im not lewis buchanan. ie, i need all the help i can get.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Man. The pricing on the full builds is insanely good. 

I need to replace my daughter’s 2015 Process 134. I am WAY better off buying her an XT full build Druid than a new Process. $1000 cheaper, way better speced and no comparison in any way imaginable. 

The full builds are one hell of a good deal.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> I imagine that we've all seen Buchanan's test of the new Forbidden Pagan [that's what I'm calling it].
> 
> I don't know how tall he is, but his sizing down from a large Druid to a medium is interesting. The Pagan is more planted and stable than the Druid at speed, based on his comments. Logically, it's slacker, longer and a tad heavier as well. He's got a Fox 38 up front [I think], which likely means 170 fork travel.
> 
> ...


I'm almost certainly going to pick up a Pagan. But I am definitely not going to get rid of my Druid...unless the Pagan renders it redundant, which I doubt.

I have been riding my hard tail quite a bit lately. But even on the tamer stuff, I am thinking more and more that my Druid is more fun. I love my Honzo, but I need to be feeling pretty rested and strong in order to really rip it up with that bike.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

Had a little fall last week, luckily the bike fell on me so no frame damage. I dropped it off at Fanatic and they were able to get it back up to snuff. This was run 2 at Chuckanut and I got lazy, but dang I'm excited to get after it again after the rain pushes through. I thought you'd enjoy a little friday fail.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

I may have a matte RideWrap kit for a size large Druid. (Trying to exchange with Fanatik). I ordered the wrong one and unfortunately it put me off installing it properly. If I can't exchange it I'll sell if anyone is interested. *I've already paid up the nose for shipping costs, so hopefully no lowballing. I'm losing money on this already.

Thanks!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Ouch! Glad that neither you nor the bike were seriously injured.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm almost certainly going to pick up a Pagan. But I am definitely not going to get rid of my Druid...unless the Pagan renders it redundant, which I doubt.
> 
> I have been riding my hard tail quite a bit lately. But even on the tamer stuff, I am thinking more and more that my Druid is more fun. I love my Honzo, but I need to be feeling pretty rested and strong in order to really rip it up with that bike.


Yeah, the hardtail would be for smooth rides, Type 2 rides, bikepacking, etc. I'd be using the Pagan for everything else, including park. I used to use a 180/160 bike in the 26" days for everything, so...

Wow, I've totally talked myself into this.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Yeah, the hardtail would be for smooth rides, Type 2 rides, bikepacking, etc. I'd be using the Pagan for everything else, including park. I used to use a 180/160 bike in the 26" days for everything, so...
> 
> Wow, I've totally talked myself into this.


I expect it would be great. I used my 2015 Owen-designed 160/160 Range for everything for 3 years and had an absolute blast. It was awesome for everything from West Bragg to CNC, to Moose/Husky to Mount 7, to Fernie, Revy, Cumby, etc., etc. That said, I was able to get it down to 27.5 lbs with pedals and Minions. That's when bikes used to break more.

Re one of your earlier posts, maybe I am riding with less of a resting ***** face these days, but all of a sudden that Druid is attracting attention like crazy, every ride. Some know all about it but have never seen one in the wild, while others have no clue wtf it is (apart from being some kind of weird looking Rube Goldberg Machine). Everyone is highly intrigued. They all want to talk about it lots on the trail (usually when I am in a hurry). Oddly, nobody yet has asked me whether it needs more than one chain, which I thought would be the most common question.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

Forbidden was mentioned in a pinkbike podcast about hardtails. 

They referenced the Forbidden review to reinforce their claim that FS is objectively better than a hardtail. They jokingly asked, "why would you purposely choose a worse bike?" They reasoned that the challenge of the trail would have to be pretty tame. They contrasted the control of a high pivot bike and a HT. They spoke about how geo changes under travel, suggesting a HT got worse under compression, when you most needed stability, balance and control; they went on about something regarding riding comfortably centered, rather than over the fork, and not having the rear bounce around wildly. They also said a design like Forbidden works as both a trail bike and longer travel bike, referencing how high pivot DH bikes felt over traditional designs. They playfully spoke about wanting to do a high pivot shootout, but another said they'd rather speak about the differences between a high pivot and traditional FS bikes.

The thing that stood out to me was about how they said Forbidden has a great factory, and that Owen has good experience working with such factories, and having high confidence in wanting to try the longer travel Forbidden, expecting it to be good. They also mentioned that they didn't want the PB staff to be all broken at old age, with weak joints from getting beat up on a daily basis, to reason why they don't do many HT reviews.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Varaxis said:


> Forbidden was mentioned in a pinkbike podcast about hardtails.
> 
> They referenced the Forbidden review to reinforce their claim that FS is objectively better than a hardtail. They jokingly asked, "why would you purposely choose a worse bike?" They reasoned that the challenge of the trail would have to be pretty tame. They contrasted the control of a high pivot bike and a HT. They spoke about how geo changes under travel, suggesting a HT got worse under compression, when you most needed stability, balance and control; they went on about something regarding riding comfortably centered, rather than over the fork, and not having the rear bounce around wildly. They also said a design like Forbidden works as both a trail bike and longer travel bike, referencing how high pivot DH bikes felt over traditional designs. They playfully spoke about wanting to do a high pivot shootout, but another said they'd rather speak about the differences between a high pivot and traditional FS bikes.
> 
> The thing that stood out to me was about how they said Forbidden has a great factory, and that Owen has good experience working with such factories, and having high confidence in wanting to try the longer travel Forbidden, expecting it to be good. They also mentioned that they didn't want the PB staff to be all broken at old age, with weak joints from getting beat up on a daily basis, to reason why they don't do many HT reviews.


I am very quickly coming around to this view myself. Not sure there are any downsides to reaching for the Druid vs my Honzo, regardless of terrain. Even on the tamer stuff, the Druid is a blast. And yeah - it even climbs MUCH better (although admittedly, I could do much better than a Honzo for climbing).

I think I like the idea of a Druid and a Pagan better than a Pagan and a Honzo, as a two bike quiver. Pretty soon I suspect I will have all three, and that my hard tail will be relegated to largely gathering dust in my garage. As a one bike quiver though, I also suspect that the Druid would be a better fit for me than the Pagan (or, obviously, the Honzo).


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am very quickly coming around to this view myself. Not sure there are any downsides to reaching for the Druid vs my Honzo, regardless of terrain. Even on the tamer stuff, the Druid is a blast. And yeah - it even climbs MUCH better (although admittedly, I could do much better than a Honzo for climbing).
> 
> I think I like the idea of a Druid and a Pagan better than a Pagan and a Honzo, as a two bike quiver. Pretty soon I suspect I will have all three, and that my hard tail will be relegated to largely gathering dust in my garage. As a one bike quiver though, I also suspect that the Druid would be a better fit for me than the Pagan (or, obviously, the Honzo).


The forbidden pagan is some name lol. I like the forbidden voodoo. 
Any better guesses out there


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> The forbidden pagan is some name lol. I like the forbidden voodoo.
> Any better guesses out there


forbidden froth


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> The forbidden pagan is some name lol. I like the forbidden voodoo.
> Any better guesses out there


Heathen, Infidel, Shaman, Anamist... ?

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Heathen, Infidel, Shaman, Anamist... ?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Actually if they keep in theme with the druid, then shaman would be a pretty good guess.

On a side note, the druid is now officially the fastest bike I've ridden. Knocked a staggering 1.30 of my pb on a 10min descent. Local trails
Next descent knocked 30seconds off with a crash.
As for the climbing segments.... Old bike doesn't even compare. Took 5mins of a 20min climb


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Next. Level.


So the Secus is confirmed a worthwhile upgrade. I was plowing through blown out corners on the DH sections. Climbing is also improved over roots. Just adds more suppleness and support with the increased air volume (positive and negative). I recommend it, but a Smashpot is probably nice too. I am impressed with the performance of the Secus being air spring. Glad I got it. Next... Bushing burnishing perhaps.

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> Actually if they keep in theme with the druid, then shaman would be a pretty good guess.
> 
> On a side note, the druid is now officially the fastest bike I've ridden. Knocked a staggering 1.30 of my pb on a 10min descent. Local trails
> Next descent knocked 30seconds off with a crash.
> As for the climbing segments.... Old bike doesn't even compare. Took 5mins of a 20min climb


Yeah, I pulled 8 PRs today. Mostly from Secus on the DH, some from familiarity of trail, some from cardio always getting stronger. 4000ft of climbing will do that though. Druid is fast and with the Secus, I'm plowing the front more like a longer travel coil fork. It just feels like more now.

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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

onawave said:


> forbidden froth


Warlock, sorceror, mage, wizard, hahaha

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## BlackPenquinn (Nov 7, 2014)

Hey guys, I’m seriously intrigued by the Druid but I have some questions you might be able to answer. 

I currently ride a dream build Ibis Ripmo. I’ve been riding decades and been riding Ibis bikes since 2007. Two years back I gave up tracking cars and built up a Ripmo with the money saved. It’s an insane build, AXS, Zipp 3zeromoto rims, Hope brakes, Deity bars and seat, Chris King, Time Special 8’s etc. All the stuff I love. Yours would likely be different.

So why am I dreaming about the Druid???
The bikes would be similar weights as my bike is a bit over 30lbs with pedals and tubeless. Both have a great pedaling platform. But is one better for chunky tech. 

My favourite local trails are very rocky, rooty and technical, not “ Bike Park”. I do ride those kind of trails, but I love an area that feels natural and has long sections of big limestone rocks threaded through the forrest. 

My Ripmo does very well in this terrain. I’m thinking the rear axel path of the Druid would be great for all the rock hits we get here. Am I crazy? Is it good in tech? Might I carry more speed in this area? Where I live, most climbs are short and punchy. 

I would set the bike up with a Ziggy and make it that bit different. Im 5’8”, so I think it would be great. 

The other option would be to compliment the Ripmo with a light Transition Spur and rocket around the more manicured flow trails and have a totally different machine. 

I currently have a Ripmo, Ibis DV9 for commutes, Rocky Mountain Suzi-Q for snow and for BMX parks with my son an NS Soda. 

Thanks.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

BlackPenquinn said:


> Hey guys, I'm seriously intrigued by the Druid but I have some questions you might be able to answer.
> 
> I currently ride a dream build Ibis Ripmo. I've been riding decades and been riding Ibis bikes since 2007. Two years back I gave up tracking cars and built up a Ripmo with the money saved. It's an insane build, AXS, Zipp 3zeromoto rims, Hope brakes, Deity bars and seat, Chris King, Time Special 8's etc. All the stuff I love. Yours would likely be different.
> 
> ...


hey dude, im am going through something similar. i currently ride a yeti sb150 full retard build. the bike is great dont get me wrong - however for my style of riding (planted) the thought process behind the druid setup seems to make a lot of sense.

from what i can make out - the people who move from a yeti to a druid - all claim there is way less "squirelyness" in the rear - which is exactly what i am after. when im riding steeper stuff at speed - this is exactly what i feel.

so - i went to my bike shop and put together a parts list for the druid enduro version - full retard build. i should be getting the first frame in Australia when it gets here. we are one wheel set, we are one bar and stem, axs, chris king, fox 38 and mullet setup. like i said full retard.

lewis buchanan put one through its paces last week - and the way he rode it - i was super happy with my decision.

so maybe to answer your question - high pivot design on a trail bike makes a heck of lot of sense. obviously im biased - but you will find nothing but awesome reviews here. esp on chunkier terrain.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

BlackPenquinn said:


> Hey guys, I'm seriously intrigued by the Druid but I have some questions you might be able to answer.
> 
> I currently ride a dream build Ibis Ripmo. I've been riding decades and been riding Ibis bikes since 2007. Two years back I gave up tracking cars and built up a Ripmo with the money saved. It's an insane build, AXS, Zipp 3zeromoto rims, Hope brakes, Deity bars and seat, Chris King, Time Special 8's etc. All the stuff I love. Yours would likely be different.
> 
> ...


I rode a Ripmo all last season before getting the Druid near the end of the year. The Druid handles those chunky climbs and descents better than the Ripmo. That's all there is to it. The Ripmo wasn't my first Ibis - I enjoyed a Mojo HD for several years, and the Ripmo has that classic Ibis DNA - firm climbing platform, perfect for long grinds. The Druid feels different - with the shock open, the back tire is just glued to the trail. Rocks, roots, slabs, wet, dry - it claws its way up without hanging on square-edged obstacles. You will carry more speed. On rolling descents with a mix of up and down, it's really obvious - the Druid lets you get away with fewer pedal strokes, all other things being equal.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone try running a 1 degree angelset with their 150mm or 140mm fork? Getting curious how the bike would ride a tick slacker.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Anyone try running a 1 degree angelset with their 150mm or 140mm fork? Getting curious how the bike would ride a tick slacker.


I am with a 150mm 2021 Fox 36. Unfortunately, I never rode it in stock configuration since I did a complete custom build. I love it but have no comparison.

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Anyone going to be in revelstoke, Vernon kamloops area next week. Planning on doing a bit of a park tour and a few stops along the way.


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## Pistol2Ne (Apr 2, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am very quickly coming around to this view myself. Not sure there are any downsides to reaching for the Druid vs my Honzo, regardless of terrain. Even on the tamer stuff, the Druid is a blast. And yeah - it even climbs MUCH better (although admittedly, I could do much better than a Honzo for climbing).
> 
> I think I like the idea of a Druid and a Pagan better than a Pagan and a Honzo, as a two bike quiver. Pretty soon I suspect I will have all three, and that my hard tail will be relegated to largely gathering dust in my garage. As a one bike quiver though, I also suspect that the Druid would be a better fit for me than the Pagan (or, obviously, the Honzo).


Currently have a similar set up. Trailed out Santa cruz blur with a evil insurgent. I was going to go for the wreckoning as my new enduro bike but this new Pagan(or w/e it's called) seems to be the ticket.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alanc12 said:


> Anyone going to be in revelstoke, Vernon kamloops area next week. Planning on doing a bit of a park tour and a few stops along the way.


I'm actually from Vernon, depending on day. I could potentially get out for a ride with you.

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I'm actually from Vernon, depending on day. I could potentially get out for a ride with you.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


At the moment it looks like next Monday in Vernon. All my riding will be during the week by the looks of it. Was just guna do a park day to get as mucb riding it as possible but is there any must rides?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> At the moment it looks like next Monday in Vernon. All my riding will be during the week by the looks of it. Was just guna do a park day to get as mucb riding it as possible but is there any must rides?


super jelly.

i was in whistler, revy and fernie last year with my family. my boys who are now 6 and 4 loved it, and the wife was blown away.

such a great part of the world in general.

i was supposed to be back over there again this year to do summer gravity camp - but rona obvs got in the way.

planning another family trip there next year - but at this stage - who knows what is happening with the world.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alanc12 said:


> At the moment it looks like next Monday in Vernon. All my riding will be during the week by the looks of it. Was just guna do a park day to get as mucb riding it as possible but is there any must rides?


It looks like I'll be free on Monday. 
I could probably join you for some laps at SS
We could ride hammered cow @the Soverign trail network before the park opens? (Weather permitting)

I would say noble canyon (baconator, sauce on the side) is better riding than SS, with the recent rain and cooler weather it's been my go to recently 

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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Running without lower guide update.

Been about 2 months and recently under power (climbing) it would sound similar to a front der that wasn’t adjusted properly. Tonight the chain came off the chain ring under power on a right hand switchback with some bumps. Then on the descent, the chain came off again. So I’ll be going back to the lower guide! It was nice while it lasted though.

GX drivetrain with XO chain ~800km - replaced a v2 idler pulley recently too as the teeth were hooked


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> Running without lower guide update.
> 
> Been about 2 months and recently under power (climbing) it would sound similar to a front der that wasn't adjusted properly. Tonight the chain came off the chain ring under power on a right hand switchback with some bumps. Then on the descent, the chain came off again. So I'll be going back to the lower guide! It was nice while it lasted though.
> 
> GX drivetrain with XO chain ~800km - replaced a v2 idler pulley recently too as the teeth were hooked


The lack of durability of the idler and lower chain guide appears to be the Achilles heel of this bike. At the rate I am going, I will be replacing both, twice, each season. Given that this bike is running double duty with my hard tail, I'm not even putting that many miles on it. I seem to be chewing through Idler bearings like crazy. I have almost stopped washing my bike altogether in an effort to reduce wear.

That said, it's a small price to pay. I rode last night in 18 degree temps. Finally out of the heat. It was sprinkling rain and the trail was in the best condition I have ever seen it. What a fantastic ride. This bike shone even more than usual. Climbing seemed effortless even in higher gears, and the cornering traction was insane, since I was finally on something that wasn't silty dust. It felt like I was able to throw the bike around like a rag doll because I wasn't gassed from the heat. Can't wait for some serious fall riding.

Today I am going to plan a trip to the Island for September. Do some wicked riding in Cumberland, and re-visit the birthplace of this magnificent steed. Hopefully I can meet its creator in person as well. And then hit Golden and Revy on the way back. Should be good. I LOVE Cumberland. With this bike, it should be an even more incredible experience.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Definitely agree with you about the idler and the lower guide. There was talk before of a SS idler so hopefully this is still a possibility in the future as I believe it’s very much needed.

Overall though I’m pretty stoked on the bike too!


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The lack of durability of the idler and lower chain guide appears to be the Achilles heel of this bike. At the rate I am going, I will be replacing both, twice, each season. Given that this bike is running double duty with my hard tail, I'm not even putting that many miles on it. I seem to be chewing through Idler bearings like crazy. I have almost stopped washing my bike altogether in an effort to reduce wear.
> 
> That said, it's a small price to pay. I rode last night in 18 degree temps. Finally out of the heat. It was sprinkling rain and the trail was in the best condition I have ever seen it. What a fantastic ride. This bike shone even more than usual. Climbing seemed effortless even in higher gears, and the cornering traction was insane, since I was finally on something that wasn't silty dust. It felt like I was able to throw the bike around like a rag doll because I wasn't gassed from the heat. Can't wait for some serious fall riding.
> 
> Today I am going to plan a trip to the Island for September. Do some wicked riding in Cumberland, and re-visit the birthplace of this magnificent steed. Hopefully I can meet its creator in person as well. And then hit Golden and Revy on the way back. Should be good. I LOVE Cumberland. With this bike, it should be an even more incredible experience.


How do you buy a new idler and lower guide? I wanna make sure to have replacements handy. What the procedure for chain replacement, I have a XL with the extra 4 links. Have bike shop build custom chain or add 4 links? My stock chain only has one missing link. How do u add links without second missing link? Dumb question

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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

edit: never mind. I’ll be patient. 


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> It looks like I'll be free on Monday.
> I could probably join you for some laps at SS
> We could ride hammered cow @the Soverign trail network before the park opens? (Weather permitting)
> 
> ...


Yea man could be worth a look, I was checking out hammered cow on trail forks. How long does it take? I'll be heading voer from siccamous in the morning


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alanc12 said:


> Yea man could be worth a look, I was checking out hammered cow on trail forks. How long does it take? I'll be heading voer from siccamous in the morning


I think around 50 min

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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

onawave said:


> hey dude, im am going through something similar. i currently ride a yeti sb150 full retard build. the bike is great dont get me wrong - however for my style of riding (planted) the thought process behind the druid setup seems to make a lot of sense.
> 
> from what i can make out - the people who move from a yeti to a druid - all claim there is way less "squirelyness" in the rear - which is exactly what i am after. when im riding steeper stuff at speed - this is exactly what i feel.
> 
> ...


Lewis Buchanan could shred most any capable bike, look how well he rode his Ibis bikes.

I think my coiled SB150 is more capable for Big Enduro and park and chunkier terrain than this the Druid bike with 170 front and 155mm rear travel and 2 degree slacker head angle. However things change with the new Druid bike.

You could save heaps if you get a Cascade Link SB150 shipped over compared to a whole new bike. But bikes are fun, if you're not enthused over your bike then swap frames. The long travel Forbidden bike should be more big Enduro territory.

Btw I'm excited to put an inline coil and rebuild my Druid and run it with 66 HA and 145 front and 130 rear.
I hope to make it makes a lighter efficient, trail shredder.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

erdawe said:


> Lewis Buchanan could shred most any capable bike, look how well he rode his Ibis bikes.
> 
> I think my coiled SB150 is more capable for Big Enduro and park and chunkier terrain than this the Druid bike with 170 front and 155mm rear travel and 2 degree slacker head angle. However things change with the new Druid bike.
> 
> ...


i hear ya. i pondering this for quite awhile before pulling the trigger. here was my conclusion:


Yes Lewis could beat me down the mountain on a fox38 pogo stick.
I can sell my 150 now while it is still a current bike for yeti. re-sale for yeti fan boi's is high
I am %100 getting the new long travel forbidden in a large. I have paid the deposit - and i know what parts i am getting.
Due to the high pivot and me opting to go mullet - it will be a very different bike. this is exactly what i was / am after based on the way i ride. to be fair - i think the mullet is a bit of a risk - however in saying that - because Druid do the ziggy think - it just makes everything work.
I could of just bought a DH bike for my shuttle days - but i figured I would opt for the "1 bike to do it all" mantra. i think this is the right call.
It will be as fun as f3uk


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Does anyone have any input over running without lower guide and chain wrap?

I found the Druid ran ok on a clocked forward with an oval when I had it build up with the lower guide, even with average mud and Shimano XT mech.

I'm wondering if without the lower guide, the oval may work better than round for the same tooth count, as there is increased amount of wrap over the teeth vs the round when putting the power down for the same tooth count. There hypothetically should be less risk chain slip?

The XT derailleur clutch also will get a workout but it should be adjustable and repairable.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

onawave said:


> i hear ya. i pondering this for quite awhile before pulling the trigger. here was my conclusion:
> 
> 
> Yes Lewis could beat me down the mountain on a fox38 pogo stick.
> ...


Awesome! Do it.

I'm confused are you suggesting the Ziggy link for the Druid will work with the the new long-travel Forbidden? I'd be careful as there is no certainty that shows it transfers as linkages may be specific to bikes until we wait for release. They may need a long-travel ziggy link?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

erdawe said:


> Awesome! Do it.
> 
> I'm confused are you suggesting the Ziggy link for the Druid will work with the the new long-travel Forbidden? I'd be careful as there is no certainty that shows it transfers as linkages may be specific to bikes until we wait for release. They may need a long-travel ziggy link?


Yes, i have been told these will be available out of the gate. Lewis used the Ziggy link on his, so i am assuming its the same one.


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

onawave said:


> i hear ya. i pondering this for quite awhile before pulling the trigger. here was my conclusion:
> 
> 
> Yes Lewis could beat me down the mountain on a fox38 pogo stick.
> ...


Where did you see details about deposit and what was the cost? Has the travel been confirmed?


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

blinkie14 said:


> Where did you see details about deposit and what was the cost? Has the travel been confirmed?


^^^This! And is the geo out?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

blinkie14 said:


> Where did you see details about deposit and what was the cost? Has the travel been confirmed?


i have a very good relationship with my bike shop - who is getting an early release of the new forbidden froth bike. there is 1 large frame coming into australia.

suggested travel (this has been talked about before) is 170 / 154

it is not up for public sale yet. if your bike shop can get an early release then maybe?

early release color - is black and blue. im guessing blue writing.

Forbidden bike co - will not talk to you about these frames - yet.

here in auz - the next batch of druids being imported are basically sold out.

general release around feb next year in the states maybe march.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

Cerberus75 said:


> ^^^This! And is the geo out?


x3

Any details on that?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

EV07 said:


> x3
> 
> Any details on that?


no. longer slacker than the druid. i got told its comparable to my sb150. but most burlier enduro bikes are now a days.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

onawave said:


> no. longer slacker than the druid. i got told its comparable to my sb150. but most burlier enduro bikes are now a days.


Considering its slacker with more travel, and lew buch sized down. Ild say its longer


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> Considering its slacker with more travel, and lew buch sized down. Ild say its longer


it has to be right? i cant see how they would do a longer travel bike without adjusting it to be essentially more aggressive.

also keep in mind. lewis is a top level pro. he will probably always size down. for us mere mortals - id size always taking the larger size if you are on the cusp is for the most part - the way to go.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

onawave said:


> no. longer slacker than the druid. i got told its comparable to my sb150. but most burlier enduro bikes are now a days.


Got any info about release date and delivery at least?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

EV07 said:


> Got any info about release date and delivery at least?


please read below. this has been all answered to the best of my ability a number of times.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

onawave said:


> please read below. this has been all answered to the best of my ability a number of times.


I wasn't able to see your previous post for some reason?

All good now,cheers


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

EV07 said:


> I wasn't able to see your previous post for some reason?
> 
> All good now,cheers


all good my dude!


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

onawave said:


> no. longer slacker than the druid. .


I think we could all guess that from the images. so nothing confirmed, all just hearsay from a friend of a friend.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> i have a very good relationship with my bike shop - who is getting an early release of the new forbidden froth bike. there is 1 large frame coming into australia.
> 
> suggested travel (this has been talked about before) is 170 / 154
> 
> ...


Thanks for this!

You also mentioned that the geo might be similar to the Yeti SB150, so 64.5 HA and a bit longer reach. That would put the Pagan in the same range as most new-ish enduro/AM bikes. This is all good. :thumbsup:


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Thanks for this!
> 
> You also mentioned that the geo might be similar to the Yeti SB150, so 64.5 HA and a bit longer reach. That would put the Pagan in the same range as most new-ish enduro/AM bikes. This is all good. :thumbsup:


Man could it be all they have done to get more travel out of the rear, is changed too a trunnion mount shock since there's a few larger sizes than the druids 210x55. Would. Kinda indicate similar linkage, seeing the ziggy is transferable. 
I know some people that are running 160mm on the druid getting 64.5ish HTA.

Also this turned up last night.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Alanc12 said:


> Man could it be all they have done to get more travel out of the rear, is changed too a trunnion mount shock since there's a few larger sizes than the druids 210x55. Would. Kinda indicate similar linkage, seeing the ziggy is transferable.
> I know some people that are running 160mm on the druid getting 64.5ish HTA.
> 
> Also this turned up last night.


Coffee and scone thoughts...

If I'm a small, boutique bike manufacturer, I'm looking for efficiencies. I'd want to re-use as much of the tech from the Druid as possible on the Pagan. If the Ziggy link works on both bikes, the back end is going to be very similar, perhaps to the point where the rear end is the same on both bikes but with tweaks to the linkage to get more travel. Linkages are probably cheaper to make than carbon swingarms. Hell, I'd also want to use the 210x55 shock size to reduce the number of SKUs I had to carry. With how light the required damping is on the Druid, a couple clicks of compression damping might be enough to get a short shock to work well on a longer travel bike. Case in point - Ibis Ripmo has 147mm of travel and uses the 210x55. If the back end needs to be stiffer, change the layup instead of completely redesigning it. You would likely need a new front end, assuming the reach increases and the upper pivot point might change a bit. Or it might not change. Hell, I don't know, I'm not an engineer!

6 more months...


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

New Forbidden LT build


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

alan1 said:


> New Forbidden LT build


*throws credit cards and wedding ring at screen*


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

pinkrobe said:


> *throws credit cards and wedding ring at screen*


**worst marriage proposal ever**


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

alan1 said:


> New Forbidden LT build


My current druid is sitting at ~34lbs in size medium......so this one is like ~38lbs lol????


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

blinkie14 said:


> **worst marriage proposal ever**


Okay, both of these are pretty funny.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

For those on shimano, have you turned off the clutch on the derailleur, with a rearward path the suspension should be better with it off. And the lower guide should keep the chain on. So with it off it should mitigate some of the loss of efficiency with the guide.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)




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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

Cerberus75 said:


> For those on shimano, have you turned off the clutch on the derailleur, with a rearward path the suspension should be better with it off. And the lower guide should keep the chain on. So with it off it should mitigate some of the loss of efficiency with the guide.


Honestly can't say I can notice any difference.

There is more of a difference between where you position the bottom guide than if the clutch is on with regards to the efficiency of drivetrain.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

_HENDO_ said:


> Honestly can't say I can notice any difference.
> 
> There is more of a difference between where you position the bottom guide than if the clutch is on with regards to the efficiency of drivetrain.


I agree, I've got my bottom guide on, with next to no tention. by turning the bash gaurd fully to the rear and sliding roller as far aft as possible. Don't even knows it's there And I tried it back to back with no tensioner, no differance.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Have any of you folks on Druids come from long travel 29ers? I'm currently on a Commencal Meta AM 29, while I like the bike in general I just can't get along with it climbing, unsure if it's the weight or the overall character of the bike. I ride it and a Chromag and feel far less fatigued after climbing the same climbs on the Chromag. The Meta has Eagle with a 30tooth ring and the Chromag is 11 speed sram with a 32 tooth and I climb the same climbs. I understand the difference in climbing on a 160mm full suspension and a hardtail is significant, however I have to wonder if something shorter travel and a bit lighter would help with that. I don't feel I need the 160mm of travel for the majority of my riding but I wanted to try something long travel. So how have those that have switched from an enduro/long travel bike to the Druid liked it? I really think that a more "trail" oriented bike would be a better fit for me, however I do want it to climb well. What sort of weight are peoples builds coming in at? I would be swapping my GX eagle parts, wheels and Lyrik over if I build a Druid.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

ALS650L said:


> Have any of you folks on Druids come from long travel 29ers? I'm currently on a Commencal Meta AM 29, while I like the bike in general I just can't get along with it climbing, unsure if it's the weight or the overall character of the bike. I ride it and a Chromag and feel far less fatigued after climbing the same climbs on the Chromag. The Meta has Eagle with a 30tooth ring and the Chromag is 11 speed sram with a 32 tooth and I climb the same climbs. I understand the difference in climbing on a 160mm full suspension and a hardtail is significant, however I have to wonder if something shorter travel and a bit lighter would help with that. I don't feel I need the 160mm of travel for the majority of my riding but I wanted to try something long travel. So how have those that have switched from an enduro/long travel bike to the Druid liked it? I really think that a more "trail" oriented bike would be a better fit for me, however I do want it to climb well. What sort of weight are peoples builds coming in at? I would be swapping my GX eagle parts, wheels and Lyrik over if I build a Druid.


Long story short, I had a canyon torque 180 up front 175 in the rear, the druid is a rocket up hill and even faster down. I havnt got new PR's on every descent and climb that I have ridden. I would also take the druid anywhere I would have taken the canyon torque. Sure you may deal it abit more when you make a mistake or Come up Short. 
Also worth noting the druid rides like a 150bike descending and an xc bike ascending


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

ALS650L said:


> What sort of weight are peoples builds coming in at?


32lbs for a medium XT build, stock without pedals.

You're going to love climbing on a Druid because the pedal bob is imperceptible.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I just went for a ride with the clutch on and off and I can't tell the difference.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

ALS650L said:


> Have any of you folks on Druids come from long travel 29ers? I'm currently on a Commencal Meta AM 29, while I like the bike in general I just can't get along with it climbing, unsure if it's the weight or the overall character of the bike. I ride it and a Chromag and feel far less fatigued after climbing the same climbs on the Chromag. The Meta has Eagle with a 30tooth ring and the Chromag is 11 speed sram with a 32 tooth and I climb the same climbs. I understand the difference in climbing on a 160mm full suspension and a hardtail is significant, however I have to wonder if something shorter travel and a bit lighter would help with that. I don't feel I need the 160mm of travel for the majority of my riding but I wanted to try something long travel. So how have those that have switched from an enduro/long travel bike to the Druid liked it? I really think that a more "trail" oriented bike would be a better fit for me, however I do want it to climb well. What sort of weight are peoples builds coming in at? I would be swapping my GX eagle parts, wheels and Lyrik over if I build a Druid.


I'm at 31lb on a size large

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## m1tch666 (Jun 20, 2014)

I'm very interested in the Druid but UK pricing is putting me off. Frame prices....

CAD = 3999
Dollar = 3099
GBP = 2949......Now 3999 CAD and 3099 Dollar both equate to around £2300

I understand there's the costs to the UK supplier but the difference is pushing it out my build range.......had it been £2300 it would be a no brainer. It's the cost of a new fork or wheels in itself.


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## Varaxis (Mar 16, 2010)

m1tch666 said:


> I'm very interested in the Druid but UK pricing is putting me off. Frame prices....
> 
> CAD = 3999
> Dollar = 3099
> ...


Santa Cruz does the same with the pricing between UK and US being practically the same, like for most of the lower priced Megatowers. Forbidden seems generous with their UK offering, in comparison. I'm sure some Aussies will see your complaint and raise it...

https://www.trade-tariff.service.gov.uk/commodities/8712003090?currency=EUR

After 20% VAT and 14% tariff, assuming 2300 GBP conversion from CAD/USD, they should be charging 3082 GBP. I'm just throwing out bits of info to try and improve my understanding and sympathize. There are UK/EU anti dumping laws that tack on up to 48.5% on bicycles originating from many Asian countries (China, Indonesia, Malaysia, etc.) too. NAFTA probably accounts for the lack of tax between the CAD and USD pricing. The taxes that Americans pay aren't added upfront in the price of the item--there's sales tax that makes the US price more like $3350.

Sometimes you just gotta pay the asking price for the stuff you want. Consider the Kavenz VHP16 maybe, if you want a high pivot and really can't afford to save up more?


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## m1tch666 (Jun 20, 2014)

Yip, it's still the target bike for me, it just sucks.... 😭


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Varaxis said:


> Santa Cruz does the same with the pricing between UK and US being practically the same, like for most of the lower priced Megatowers. Forbidden seems generous with their UK offering, in comparison. I'm sure some Aussies will see your complaint and raise it...
> 
> https://www.trade-tariff.service.gov.uk/commodities/8712003090?currency=EUR
> 
> ...


even worse down under.

deviate does high pivot - and are a scottish brand. id look into them.

the other thing i found interesting - is that pinkbike podcast dropped hints that next year could be the year of the high pivot.

interesting times.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> I just went for a ride with the clutch on and off and I can't tell the difference.


Worth a shot, some bikes with a rearward travel do better without it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> Worth a shot, some bikes with a rearward travel do better without it.


Back when I had my 2015 Owen designed Range with a non-HSP rearward travel design, there was a pretty big debate over whether the rear d's clutch restricted travel, whether a smaller ring restricted travel ever so slightly, and whether it was optimal to be in the highest gear before descending. Now that I think of it, you may have been part of that discussion.

We even got into removing the chain entirely at the summit, with stories from guys of their best park day ever when they broke their chain early on during a long epic run. Invigorated with hopes of reaching the suspension promised land, I went and bought a nice Park Tools quick link remover and tried it myself!

There were a lot of posts in that thread, and some people got very heated when others disagreed with them.

In the end, I didn't notice much of a difference with any of these things.

I was on a major quest at the time for speed and optimizing my suspension.

In hindsight, I have really dialled things back. 2015 was the most intense biking year of my life. I am lucky I am still alive.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Back when I had my 2015 Owen designed Range with a non-HSP rearward travel design, there was a pretty big debate over whether the rear d's clutch restricted travel, whether a smaller ring restricted travel ever so slightly, and whether it was optimal to be in the highest gear before descending. Now that I think of it, you may have been part of that discussion.
> 
> We even got into removing the chain entirely at the summit, with stories from guys of their best park day ever when they broke their chain early on during a long epic run. Invigorated with hopes of reaching the suspension promised land, I went and bought a nice Park Tools quick link remover and tried it myself!
> 
> ...


I might have been lol. I notice it more with M8000 series clutch at the stock settings. But they are adjustable. Sram and the newer ones the clutch seems to have less tension.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

meeeeep said:


> 32lbs for a medium XT build, stock without pedals.
> 
> You're going to love climbing on a Druid because the pedal bob is imperceptible.


Thanks for the replies, seems like I could easily get into the 32lbs range with my current parts. Just loosing 3lbs or so of bike weight would be good, but improved climbing performance would be better. When I bought my Commencal I had grand ideas of riding bike park regularly but that hasn't happened, but I still get out and ride trail 3-5 days a week.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

I have been having issues with the idler pulley bearing going bad in about 4 months of riding time. I think I found a viable solution. I purchased a stainless solid oil bearing from McMaster Carr. this bearing is similar to the SKF MTRX bearings found on the new cane creek hellbender bottom bracket. 
https://www.mcmaster.com/4668K276/
I will update yall in a couple of months on the performance of the new bearing.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

senorbanana said:


> I have been having issues with the idler pulley bearing going bad in about 4 months of riding time. I think I found a viable solution. I purchased a stainless solid oil bearing from McMaster Carr. this bearing is similar to the SKF MTRX bearings found on the new cane creek hellbender bottom bracket.
> https://www.mcmaster.com/4668K276/
> I will update yall in a couple of months on the performance of the new bearing.


That's a good quality EZO 6902 bearing but i wonder if because of the axial movement caused by the chainline pull if what's really needed is something like a dual row angular contact bearing. Unfortunately, I don't think anyone makes one this size. NSK and skf's new solid oil bearings might fare better ?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

senorbanana said:


> I have been having issues with the idler pulley bearing going bad in about 4 months of riding time. I think I found a viable solution. I purchased a stainless solid oil bearing from McMaster Carr. this bearing is similar to the SKF MTRX bearings found on the new cane creek hellbender bottom bracket.
> https://www.mcmaster.com/4668K276/
> I will update yall in a couple of months on the performance of the new bearing.
> View attachment 1361353
> ...


I am not at all mechanically inclined and was shocked to see that the bearing is $32. The replacement pulley is $30 from Forbidden but I guess that may not play nicely with a used chain. Not to mention you'd still have to replace it in 4mo.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I’m on my third set of bearings and my second pulley. 

That and the lower chain guide (that I completely destroyed) are the Achilles heel of this bike.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Haha I have a small stockpile of the e13 lower guide parts.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm on my third set of bearings and my second pulley.
> 
> That and the lower chain guide (that I completely destroyed) are the Achilles heel of this bike.


How many kms are you going before seeing pulley and pivot issues? I'm around 300 and haven't had any yet, but want to keep an eye on things.

No lift access and all trail kms.

Large XT Build

Thanks,

Mike


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

My V2 idler pulley lasted about 3 months, 600km as a trail bike so lots of climbing. The bearing was still OK but the teeth were really worn. I hope they come out with a stainless version soon!


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

@kootenay: Can you flip the idler pulley, like you could do on old granny gears to have the hooks face away from the chain rollers and get more life out of that idler? Just got my Druid, so I haven't checked if its mounting is symmetric.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Good idea but unfortunately not, the idler pulley is offset to one side and not symmetrical. I will say that the inner side of the pulley and the mounting plate are showing wear so it’s rubbing. Nothing significant but that mounting plate will need to be replaced down the line too.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Kootenay rider said:


> My V2 idler pulley lasted about 3 months, 600km as a trail bike so lots of climbing. The bearing was still OK but the teeth were really worn. I hope they come out with a stainless version soon!


Thanks for sharing the pic. I'll post a pic of mine when I get the chance. Loving this bike though, so I'm okay with a few quirks. I can't get over how it builds and maintains speed. My cornering is improving out of sheer necessity .


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Thanks for sharing the pic. I'll post a pic of mine when I get the chance. Loving this bike though, so I'm okay with a few quirks. I can't get over how it builds and maintains speed. My cornering is improving out of sheer necessity .


100% agreed. It's a small price to pay. The bike is incredible.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> How many kms are you going before seeing pulley and pivot issues? I'm around 300 and haven't had any yet, but want to keep an eye on things.
> 
> No lift access and all trail kms.
> 
> ...


I don't know. I am not a Strava guy. I am out 3 to 7 days a week, every week. I have had this bike from the start - it was from the initial run. So 2 full seasons almost. I would say it has a fair number of miles but I am a very light rider, so gentle miles. It's like a desert here too so no nasty mud filled rides either.

I haven't chewed through drivetrain parts on any other bike as much as this one, but the idler and lower chain guide are both inexpensive so whatever. It's irritating at times having to wait for parts to arrive but apart from that, it's no big deal.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

What can I say about this bike that I haven’t already said a dozen or more times in this thread? Hmmm...

Here’s something. I think I may have said this 2 or 3 times, but it bears repeating. 

I rode tonight with my shock continually in the “down” position. Wow. It was awesome. Climbing was even better than with shock in the the PUSH custom tuned climb mode. 

This is a set it and forget it shock from now on. I kinda wasted money buying the 11-6 with 2 independent circuits but whatever. 

this bike + fall riding = heaven


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> What can I say about this bike that I haven't already said a dozen or more times in this thread? Hmmm...
> 
> Here's something. I think I may have said this 2 or 3 times, but it bears repeating.
> 
> ...


I have never ridden a bike and spent so little time screwing around with the shock settings, that rode so well. Awesome climbing demeanor, smooth and stable descents. I rode down a fast section of Mt Seymour (Vancouver BC) under the powerline which is like a rough riverbed and I have never felt more confident blasting through baseball sized rocks.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*new XT build: anything to check out before first bigger ride?*

Just got my new XT build. Everything looks great (except the ridewrap job I did--first time), but before I take it on a harder ride, I'd like to know if there's some part that experienced owners think I ought to inspect, re-re-torque, or lube before I take it out.

The build itself looks great so far (as far as I can tell). Only the B-tension needed a significant adjustment, and the only weird thing in the assembly was the rec to use grease rather than carbon fiber prep on the seatpost (it slipped down under my ample weight--maybe i'm conditioned to undertorque seat binder bolts). Aligning the rear axle to thread it in is weirdly vague and difficult (for me) for a through axle, but the rest of the bike is beautiful. The only noise of note on my easy spins so far are the finned pads rattling: I finally get what people are talking about there--not great!


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Gotta say folks, had an amazing warranty experience w forbidden. Found a crack in my top tube and they had a new front end in the mail within 2 business days. They gave me the option of a different colour right away or waiting a month for a colour correct one. They also hooked me up with illustrator files to get decals made. They were responsive (no waiting for emails etc) and didn't give me any sort of run around. Best part is I have a new frame for an upcoming trip (which I was sure Id miss). Definitely my best warranty experience to date (I've warrantied 2 Divinci's over the years, each took months). Honestly I think I like this colorway more than either of the originals. I think I'm calling it mint chocolate chip.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

Just a thought, a good chain is like twice the price of the idler pulley. Personally I think it makes sense to keep the less expensive component as the wear item (softer metal). Especially as the idler pulley wearing your chain will result in increased wear on the rest of the drivetrain.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Mgrantorser said:


> Gotta say folks, had an amazing warranty experience w forbidden. Found a crack in my top tube and they had a new front end in the mail within 2 business days. They gave me the option of a different colour right away or waiting a month for a colour correct one. They also hooked me up with illustrator files to get decals made. They were responsive (no waiting for emails etc) and didn't give me any sort of run around. Best part is I have a new frame for an upcoming trip (which I was sure Id miss). Definitely my best warranty experience to date (I've warrantied 2 Divinci's over the years, each took months). Honestly I think I like this colorway more than either of the originals. I think I'm calling it mint chocolate chip.
> View attachment 1361809


Is that an OG black frame they sent you?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hbar said:


> Just got my new XT build. Everything looks great (except the ridewrap job I did--first time), but before I take it on a harder ride, I'd like to know if there's some part that experienced owners think I ought to inspect, re-re-torque, or lube before I take it out.
> 
> The build itself looks great so far (as far as I can tell). Only the B-tension needed a significant adjustment, and the only weird thing in the assembly was the rec to use grease rather than carbon fiber prep on the seatpost (it slipped down under my ample weight--maybe i'm conditioned to undertorque seat binder bolts). Aligning the rear axle to thread it in is weirdly vague and difficult (for me) for a through axle, but the rest of the bike is beautiful. The only noise of note on my easy spins so far are the finned pads rattling: I finally get what people are talking about there--not great!


I have 4 pot, fin-padded XTs on my Honzo. Thankfully, No rattle or varying bite point issues. Zero.

I was all ready with Velcro though, which seems to be a quick, cheap and 100% effective fix for you if you want to rid yourself of the rattle. A small one-sided piece on each side of the pads and ka-boom. Deafening silence.

PS - as I have posted before, the ride-wrap job I did on my Druid almost ended my relationship with my daughter and girlfriend. I seriously lost my **** repeatedly as I thought I was destroying my beautiful frame. As it turns out, the job I did was pretty darn good. My LBS said they could not have done nearly as good a job. It may be that you are so dialled on it, that every insignificant blemish looks like a complete hack job. I bet it won't once you are no longer hyper focused on it. I did a second one immediately after on my Honzo. Yup. It was no less painful. In hindsight I don't even know whether my matte black carbon Druid frame needs protection, apart from the downtube.


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## Mgrantorser (Sep 29, 2019)

It is, seems like they keep warranty stock of previous colours. They were out of the gloss, but said if I waited a month theyd be able to give me a matching one. Im guessing they wont keep years worth of colour ways, but still, thats pretty cool.


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

hbar said:


> The only noise of note on my easy spins so far are the finned pads rattling: I finally get what people are talking about there--not great!


I bought a bunch of silicone o-rings to wrap around the fins. keeps em quiet


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Mgrantorser said:


> Just a thought, a good chain is like twice the price of the idler pulley. Personally I think it makes sense to keep the less expensive component as the wear item (softer metal). Especially as the idler pulley wearing your chain will result in increased wear on the rest of the drivetrain.


Agree with you from a cost perspective but not from a supply point of view. You can go buy a chain tomorrow from a local bike shop but the idler pulley is a little more complicated and very subject to availability from Forbidden. Point being, if you do alot of climbing you'd be wise to stock up on a pulley or two!


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## bdreynolds7 (Dec 13, 2019)

I don't have a Druid but the bike intrigues me. I made a quick video of what I found works best for keeping Shimano pads quiet. Velcro on the pads didn't last one ride as the glue heats up and the velcro disappears. Mastic is proven to work for me after numerous rides or maybe velcro stuck to the caliper would be better than stuck to the pad. Pads get HOT though, calipers less so.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Mgrantorser said:


> View attachment 1361809


Is that an inline mount for your mini-pump?

Sent from my Mate 30 Pro using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Mgrantorser said:


> Gotta say folks, had an amazing warranty experience w forbidden. Found a crack in my top tube and they had a new front end in the mail within 2 business days. They gave me the option of a different colour right away or waiting a month for a colour correct one. They also hooked me up with illustrator files to get decals made. They were responsive (no waiting for emails etc) and didn't give me any sort of run around. Best part is I have a new frame for an upcoming trip (which I was sure Id miss). Definitely my best warranty experience to date (I've warrantied 2 Divinci's over the years, each took months). Honestly I think I like this colorway more than either of the originals. I think I'm calling it mint chocolate chip.


I may have missed it but are you able to share any more info about the crack in your top tube? Exact location? Suspected cause? Pics? Anything else?

Thanks.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> Just got my new XT build. Everything looks great (except the ridewrap job I did--first time), but before I take it on a harder ride, I'd like to know if there's some part that experienced owners think I ought to inspect, re-re-torque, or lube before I take it out.
> 
> The build itself looks great so far (as far as I can tell). Only the B-tension needed a significant adjustment, and the only weird thing in the assembly was the rec to use grease rather than carbon fiber prep on the seatpost (it slipped down under my ample weight--maybe i'm conditioned to undertorque seat binder bolts). Aligning the rear axle to thread it in is weirdly vague and difficult (for me) for a through axle, but the rest of the bike is beautiful. The only noise of note on my easy spins so far are the finned pads rattling: I finally get what people are talking about there--not great!


Same built here and similar experiences.

-5hrs of my life, but glad I did it. If you want to add extra protection, I've got a bit of damage(scratches through the ride wrap) on the rear most part of the seat stays and under the BB.
B-Tension screw was off on mine too, but then I released they did that on purpose. If you adjust to the mark on the derailleur, your chain may slip on the smallest cog. My did.
XT pads raddled, but I seemed to fix it by spreading the pad spring out and therefore increasing the tension pushing them apart. Never hear them anymore.
Cables raddled around in the top tube until I loosened the cable ports -> tensioned them -> and tightened the ports down.
had to get new grips and added volume spacers for the shock and fork (rider weight is around 200lbs).
will likely put a 200mm rotor on the front. 180 is fine, but this bike should have a 200 imho.
I too was surprised how much torque it needs to hold the post, but it's torqued to spec and works fine without carbon paste.

Enjoy - this bike is a joy to ride.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Same built here and similar experiences.
> 
> -5hrs of my life, but glad I did it. If you want to add extra protection, I've got a bit of damage(scratches through the ride wrap) on the rear most part of the seat stays and under the BB.
> B-Tension screw was off on mine too, but then I released they did that on purpose. If you adjust to the mark on the derailleur, your chain may slip on the smallest cog. My did.
> ...


I am running Guide Ultimates on mine. People **** all over SRAM brakes but these are decent. Among the best I have owned. If they weren't, they would be gone in a flash. I swapped the 180 front rotor for a 200 this year. It was a move definitely worth making.

That said, I would say my XT 4 pots on my Honzo with 180 rotors are as strong or stronger. I have not felt the need to swap the front for a 200 on that bike. I ride it *almost* as fast and hard as the Druid. Sounds like my rattle free, consistent bite point, strong AF, reasonably modulating XT brakes were built by the biking gods themselves who chose to infuse them with dried unicorn poop dust.

*OFF TOPIC ALERT*

PS - last time I rode in Cumby, I must have seen a dozen Honzos. Including a guy I rode with who was rocking it SS. Tons of the OG dark silver and orange ti ones. Seems to be an incredibly popular bike there.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am running Guide Ultimates on mine. People **** all over SRAM brakes but these are decent. Among the best I have owned. If they weren't, they would be gone in a flash. I swapped the 180 front rotor for a 200 this year. It was a move definitely worth making.
> 
> That said, I would say my XT 4 pots on my Honzo with 180 rotors are as strong or stronger. I have not felt the need to swap the front for a 200 on that bike. I ride it *almost* as fast and hard as the Druid. Sounds like my rattle free, consistent bite point, strong AF, reasonably modulating XT brakes were built by the biking gods themselves who chose to infuse them with dried unicorn poop dust.
> 
> ...


I had Deore brakes on my Kona 153 and never had issues. New XT 4 pistons are better in everyway. I'm thinking the 200 may just balance the the pressure I'm putting on the levers and improve feel, but I'm guessing.

Off for a ride on my dream machine!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am running Guide Ultimates on mine. People **** all over SRAM brakes but these are decent. Among the best I have owned. If they weren't, they would be gone in a flash. I swapped the 180 front rotor for a 200 this year. It was a move definitely worth making.
> 
> That said, I would say my XT 4 pots on my Honzo with 180 rotors are as strong or stronger. I have not felt the need to swap the front for a 200 on that bike. I ride it *almost* as fast and hard as the Druid. Sounds like my rattle free, consistent bite point, strong AF, reasonably modulating XT brakes were built by the biking gods themselves who chose to infuse them with dried unicorn poop dust.
> 
> ...


Agreed, the 180 rotors with the newest XT 4 pot are super solid. I haven't had any braking issues other than rattling pads which I fixed with Velcro. That includes riding DH over longer distances. No fade, no overheating, no squealing. Best brake for the money IMHO.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Plenty of posts on this fix, but I thought I'd share my 10 min process for the rear fender mod.

I used the free fender that comes with many of the Fox pads as part of the packaging designed for reuse. So I had a few laying around.










Cut one side as you wish, flip the cut-off to the other side as symmetric cutting template.










Lightly sand the surfaces to adhere before taping. The slightly thicker 3M VHB gel tape (rather than the thicker foam) provides best and slimmest contact.


























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

hbar said:


> Just got my new XT build. Everything looks great (except the ridewrap job I did--first time), but before I take it on a harder ride, I'd like to know if there's some part that experienced owners think I ought to inspect, re-re-torque, or lube before I take it out.
> 
> The build itself looks great so far (as far as I can tell). Only the B-tension needed a significant adjustment, and the only weird thing in the assembly was the rec to use grease rather than carbon fiber prep on the seatpost (it slipped down under my ample weight--maybe i'm conditioned to undertorque seat binder bolts). Aligning the rear axle to thread it in is weirdly vague and difficult (for me) for a through axle, but the rest of the bike is beautiful. The only noise of note on my easy spins so far are the finned pads rattling: I finally get what people are talking about there--not great!


My seat keeps sliding down. Already stripped one bolt. Can't get it tight enough

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> My seat keeps sliding down. Already stripped one bolt. Can't get it tight enough
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Mine was slipping a bit and I just cleaned and added ample carbon paste. Problem gone.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Anyone know the difference between the '20 DPX2 tune/volume spacers and the latest '21 DPX2 that has custom size specific tunes?

I've done 250kms / 10 rides on the Druid so far. I'm 183cm / 88kg in my socks and ride a large frame. I do find it rather compact compared to other bikes I've ridden and owned. Which is a nagging doubt if I'm honest. It's certainly reserved in regards to its geo numbers. This does translate to a lively, poppy bike that can change direction and move about on the trail very well though. So I guess that's the compromise.

I'm still not quite 100% sure that I've got both the fork and the shock dialled. I'm close, very close, but I think I can get both that little bit better.

I'm running 188psi to achieve 19mm sag with the Fox recommended 10 clicks of rebound. I've not touched or checked the LSC and I'm assuming it's fully open.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

Energ8t said:


> Plenty of posts on this fix, but I thought I'd share my 10 min process for the rear fender mod.
> 
> I used the free fender that comes with many of the Fox pads as part of the packaging designed for reuse. So I had a few laying around.
> 
> ...


Well played , nice work !


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Anyone know the difference between the '20 DPX2 tune/volume spacers and the latest '21 DPX2 that has custom size specific tunes?
> 
> I've done 250kms / 10 rides on the Druid so far. I'm 183cm / 88kg in my socks and ride a large frame. I do find it rather compact compared to other bikes I've ridden and owned. Which is a nagging doubt if I'm honest. It's certainly reserved in regards to its geo numbers. This does translate to a lively, poppy bike that can change direction and move about on the trail very well though. So I guess that's the compromise.
> 
> ...


Is there a big difference between full closed and full open for rebound and compression on your dpx2. There is next to no differance on mine


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I am on an absolute tear. 

I was in Golden this past weekend. I took next week off work and booked a place in Fernie. 

I will be hitting Canmore hard before I head to Fernie. Looking to head to the Island before month's end to once again enjoy the birthplace of this magical bike, and maybe even meet up with its creator. 

Amidst all the madness and chaos in the world right now, these are quickly becoming some of the best times of my entire life. Made possible in part by wizardry and witchcraft baked into this this unreal bike. 

I feel so fortunate to have discovered it, and to own and enjoy it. I am so stoked right now that I can barely sleep at night.

There is really no point to this post, other than to try to unload some the stoke that has built up inside me. I hope you guys are having the time of your life as well.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Alanc12 said:


> Is there a big difference between full closed and full open for rebound and compression on your dpx2. There is next to no differance on mine


What code do you have on the '21 DPX2 Alanc12?

There's certainly a difference between fast and slow rebound albeit subtle. I do wonder if this is down to the suspension design and kinematics??

I've not checked the low speed compression yet. Will do later. In the DPX2 setup guide pdf I have there is no reference to LSC. It's just sag and rebound.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> What code do you have on the '21 DPX2 Alanc12?
> 
> There's certainly a difference between fast and slow rebound albeit subtle. I do wonder if this is down to the suspension design and kinematics??
> 
> I've not checked the low speed compression yet. Will do later. In the DPX2 setup guide pdf I have there is no reference to LSC. It's just sag and rebound.


I have D4TX tune, which comes up saying its a small druid tune on the ride fox Web page. The bike is size medium. I have since taken out the 0.4 volume reducer and put in the 0.6 and also removed the negative air chamber volume reducer. Trying tog et soem off the top sensitivity while maintaining bottom out resist. 
It could be that I'm simply asking too much from this shock and I do intend to get a coil at some stage.


----------



## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

Finally got this thing as dialed as I'll probably ever have any bike! The tuned suspension, Secus and mullet setup were all recent additions and all I can say is that it does everything so well! Especially steep technical stuff, just so fast, and turns so well! I usually switch frames every year or so, but I think this is gonna be a 3-4 year bike.


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## savechief (Jun 8, 2004)

This thread needs more pictures of the 3 newest Druid colors!


----------



## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am on an absolute tear.
> 
> I was in Golden this past weekend. I took next week off work and booked a place in Fernie.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing this... we need more of this these days.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Another ride, another PR - yawn. I knew that I was going faster when I found myself trying to squash a jump I usually have no speed for, and I overcooked half the corners. Good times!

Also, I really want a Pagan.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Another ride, another PR - yawn. I knew that I was going faster when I found myself trying to squash a jump I usually have no speed for, and I overcooked half the corners. Good times!
> 
> Also, I really want a Pagan.


my pagan froth bike is on order. couldnt be more frothy.


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## DadridesaMTB (Sep 12, 2020)

*Setting Sag and "Harsh" feeling from DPX2*

Good Day,

Just received my Druid XT, amazing btw. I'm having a bit of an issue setting sag however. To achieve the deeper, 30-35% SAG or 19mm on our shock I need to run like 145psi. I am 188lbs out of the shower and geared I'm closer to 195lbs. I originally set the shock at around 200psi as per Fox's recommendations. The rear end feels very stiff at this pressure and only gives me about 15mm of sag. At lower pressures I have nice small bump compliance and a more plush feeling however the shock bottoms out easily and feels super dead. I've gone for a few rides now settling between 160-165 PSI and already set some PRs. The bike is insanely fast and possibly quicker at a little more PSI however I'd be closer to 20% SAG. My riding style is aggressive trail, hard technical climbing w/ scary narrow single track with tight turns and almost no berms. Any recommendations here?


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

DadridesaMTB said:


> Good Day,
> 
> Just received my Druid XT, amazing btw. I'm having a bit of an issue setting sag however. To achieve the deeper, 30-35% SAG or 19mm on our shock I need to run like 145psi. I am 188lbs out of the shower and geared I'm closer to 195lbs. I originally set the shock at around 200psi as per Fox's recommendations. The rear end feels very stiff at this pressure and only gives me about 15mm of sag. At lower pressures I have nice small bump compliance and a more plush feeling however the shock bottoms out easily and feels super dead. I've gone for a few rides now settling between 160-165 PSI and already set some PRs. The bike is insanely fast and possibly quicker at a little more PSI however I'd be closer to 20% SAG. My riding style is aggressive trail, hard technical climbing w/ scary narrow single track with tight turns and almost no berms. Any recommendations here?


I also am not overly excited about this shock but I'm not having issues with getting the sag set. I have found there is a negative air chamber token in the shock. I removed that and have found the shock to run a little pusher, this may help You get your sag with a higher pressure and have small bump sensitivity.

I ended up getting a larger air token in the positive chamber and removing the negative air chamber token.

A friend of mine suggested running it like a coil, remove all air tokens and just play with air pressure to get it fealing right. A more linear shock should feal more plush. Havnt tried that yet.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

DadridesaMTB said:


> Good Day,
> 
> Just received my Druid XT, amazing btw. I'm having a bit of an issue setting sag however. To achieve the deeper, 30-35% SAG or 19mm on our shock I need to run like 145psi. I am 188lbs out of the shower and geared I'm closer to 195lbs. I originally set the shock at around 200psi as per Fox's recommendations. The rear end feels very stiff at this pressure and only gives me about 15mm of sag. At lower pressures I have nice small bump compliance and a more plush feeling however the shock bottoms out easily and feels super dead. I've gone for a few rides now settling between 160-165 PSI and already set some PRs. The bike is insanely fast and possibly quicker at a little more PSI however I'd be closer to 20% SAG. My riding style is aggressive trail, hard technical climbing w/ scary narrow single track with tight turns and almost no berms. Any recommendations here?


I would largely forget about sag. Trying to accurately measure sag on that bike is a problem in the first place. But even if you can get it reliably measured, I don't know if it will lead you in the right direction.

I have an initial production run Druid. I'm roughly the same weight as you. Unless they changed the DPX2, when I was running it, I could go from 175 to 195 psi and it was incredible, with zero bottoming. I left the LSC and HSC wide open and rebound was close to wide open (my settings are recorded somewhere in this thread).

Some here seemed to have all sorts of difficulty. One guy had the DPX2 apart numerous times changing spacers from the stock set up, and later went through 3 or 4 shocks before returning to the DPX2.

I don't know if some of the DPX2s are set up inconsistently or if there are QC issues, but mine was dead simple to set up and had a 20+ psi sweet spot. I ultimately settled on 195 but I never bottomed at 175, nor were pedal strikes an issue with 175mm cranks.

I since moved to the 11-6 but I have nothing but fond memories from when I was running the DPX2.

Good luck with your bike. I am sad you have not experienced the same out of the box joy I did. I thought that shock was the simplest shock to set up stock, and had the widest sweet spot psi-wise, of any bike I have ever owned (which,regrettably, is a LOT). The only reason I switched to an 11-6 is because me and my bike mechanic could not get the shock to quit "squeaking". It almost drove me crazy. Plus PUSH blew out the last gen 11-6 late fall last year. I always wanted to try one and got mine for a fraction of the ridiculous msrp. I won't be looking back, but I also don't have anything bad to say about that stock shock and stock shock set up, except the squeaking.

Maybe mine was made by bike elves and unicorns (who had a twisted sense of humour or thought that the incessant squeaking of a mouse who had lots to say, would somehow add something to each ride).

And before anyone says it, my expectations are always exceedingly high. I dump **** that doesn't perform. My DPX2 would still be happily on my bike if it were not for the Chinese water torture I experienced every ride with the squeaking, and the 11-6 being cleared out by PUSH at "blow out" prices.

My DPX2 has sat sadly on my dining room table since being swapped out last winter. If you were in my neck of the woods, I'd give it to you to try (with some ear plugs).

Off to Fernie now for a week of riding. Super stoked. Hopefully the smoke from yesterday (which has since cleared) stays away.


----------



## DadridesaMTB (Sep 12, 2020)

*Updates on the Bike and setup*

Thanks for the tips guys! Awesome network of nerds here btw. Part of the reason I got the bike was to have something a little different and unique which it certainly is.

I ended up lowering the pressure entirely in the shock, cycled it slowly as I added pressure 25 PSI at a time. Kept the shock pump attached and just did this through a few cycles up to 188 PSI than took her for a rip. Wow, huge difference! I must not have done this effectively when I got the bike. It had 160PSI in it from factory as well. After dialing up the rebound a tad and keeping the LSC and compression wide open the shock is as close to ideal as I can understand att. It has a lively and playful feel while still feeling planted and able to soak up the big hits. No need to play with the volume spacers. It must have got messed up when I first pressurized it and needed this to sort it out. It honestly felt like it was in the second compression setting at around 160PSI before.

Also recommend for any 2021 fox 36 guys out there, watch the LOST co. vid on setting it up. Factory settings work pretty well here, I honestly can't fault this Fork it seems to have a wide range to adjust to rider styles and abilities, well done Fox! I prefer a riding style where I can basically turn a pebble into a jump and recommend the following. Slow the HSR down, Speed the hell out of the LSR and try not to laugh challenge ensues. It now bounces and jumps when I want it to but stays planted on drops, cornering hard or basically when you NEED it planted. Same goes for the DPX2. They really work in harmony with each other and the basic geometry of the bike. Forbidden describes this as a playful and fun trail bike and tbh you can set it up the exact opposite of that if you want. Drop the shock pressures a bit, dial up some compression and slow down the rebound and you sit well into the bike and it does its best not to leave the ground feeling glued! If that's your game I can provide some recommended setups. If you want to jump off everything, build incredible speed and basically joke your way around the trail than go with a bit higher pressure, higher stance, more rebound. This might apply to other bike designs but wow, the Druid is just capable of anything it seems. Full review of the XT build and my current setup to follow.

TLR: If you are considering grabbing a complete build, stop thinking about it and just get it. Mr Brownstone rocks btw!


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## fullmetalski (Apr 17, 2019)

*Unhappy Customer*

I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?

I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.

Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


----------



## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*as per your request ...*



savechief said:


> This thread needs more pictures of the 3 newest Druid colors!











Z1 coil is very nice, super stoked on the bike so far. 
Code R brakes not quite as powerful as I'd hoped but other than that, just a bit of tweaking to do. Might not be completely bedded yet ..
I thought these weren't supposed to be poppy ?!?
Manuals and pops better than my insurgent or carbon warden.


----------



## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

fullmetalski said:


> I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?
> 
> I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.
> 
> Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


Hi, I have the same experience. Brand new frame build up. Cracking sound came on 2nd ride. Brought down to my LBS and they found that the left lower axle cap, nearest to crank arm was lacking a tad of grease, and the swing arm movement was on the harder side. All bearings were greased and ok, all linkage axles were ok.

After grease was applied, cracking sound gone. Apparently the Druid uses a slightly different axle cap that acts as a load bearer too, from what I understand. So grease was needed at the cap sides too.

I will update again after a few more rides.


----------



## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

fullmetalski said:


> I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?
> 
> I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.
> 
> Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


What have Forbidden said about this or have you just come here 1st without giving them a chance to reply?


----------



## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

DadridesaMTB said:


> Good Day,
> 
> Just received my Druid XT, amazing btw. I'm having a bit of an issue setting sag however. To achieve the deeper, 30-35% SAG or 19mm on our shock I need to run like 145psi. I am 188lbs out of the shower and geared I'm closer to 195lbs. I originally set the shock at around 200psi as per Fox's recommendations. The rear end feels very stiff at this pressure and only gives me about 15mm of sag. At lower pressures I have nice small bump compliance and a more plush feeling however the shock bottoms out easily and feels super dead. I've gone for a few rides now settling between 160-165 PSI and already set some PRs. The bike is insanely fast and possibly quicker at a little more PSI however I'd be closer to 20% SAG. My riding style is aggressive trail, hard technical climbing w/ scary narrow single track with tight turns and almost no berms. Any recommendations here?


Similar weight at 90kgs kitted (198lbs). I've currently settled on 188psi to achieve 19mm sag (Fox and Forbidden recommended). Also with 10 Clicks from closed/slow. Again Fox recommended. LSC untouched and open. It feels almost there to be honest.

As for measuring sag. I measured and cut a 19mm piece of card and stuck that to a cocktail stick.

What size is the Druid XT? If it's a Large what is the Fox code on the DPX2?


----------



## fullmetalski (Apr 17, 2019)

revver said:


> Hi, I have the same experience. Brand new frame build up. Cracking sound came on 2nd ride. Brought down to my LBS and they found that the left lower axle cap, nearest to crank arm was lacking a tad of grease, and the swing arm movement was on the harder side. All bearings were greased and ok, all linkage axles were ok.
> 
> After grease was applied, cracking sound gone. Apparently the Druid uses a slightly different axle cap that acts as a load bearer too, from what I understand. So grease was needed at the cap sides too.
> 
> I will update again after a few more rides.


Thanks for this response, my next move may be seeing what an LBS can figure out. Thinking it's the linkage in my case though as the noise is still present when cycling through travel with the rear wheel off.



blinkie14 said:


> What have Forbidden said about this or have you just come here 1st without giving them a chance to reply?


I did reach out to Forbidden but have yet to hear back from them unfortunately.


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## DadridesaMTB (Sep 12, 2020)

*Sag and setup*

I have a size large Druid, Custom tune code D552. After some experimentation it seems the initial setup was to blame. I de-pressurized the shock and started over. Cycling 10 times while adding 25PSI at a time. I also settled on 188PSI. The results are rather amazing. The bike has settled into its sag now (also cut a piece of card to measure lol). Took her for a rip and its a whole new experience. The harshness is gone and zero bottom outs. The bike jumps and leaps with very little effort. I absolutely love how with just a few clicks and some small pressure adjustments you can turn this bike into a hooligan on the trail or a super low CofG corner slaying sled that wants to eat up the trail and stay planted. Thanks for all the tips guys. Agree with many, I wouldn't change much on the suspension at this point, its too good already.

As for the XT build its a sweet value for such a capable bike and components. I've since ditched the SDG Radar seat it was a literal PITA. I swapped the RACEFACE bars and stem for my One Up cockpit.

Gonna go for a few more rides and check back with a full review for those interested.


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## Dirtriding4life (Sep 20, 2005)

Yesterday I sold my wife's 2018 Fuel EX and ordered the last medium Druid SLX build in stock for her. She's stoked to get on a more modern geo bike and try the high pivot. Luckily I fit on a medium as well so I'll get some ride time too on it. Thank you to everyone in this tread who gave their input on the bike. She's pumped to be getting such a good looking ride!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

*duplicate post - sorry - I have sketch coverage where I am...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dirtriding4life said:


> Yesterday I sold my wife's 2018 Fuel EX and ordered the last medium Druid SLX build in stock for her. She's stoked to get on a more modern geo bike and try the high pivot. Luckily I fit on a medium as well so I'll get some ride time too on it. Thank you to everyone in this tread who gave their input on the bike. She's pumped to be getting such a good looking ride!


Nice. As I mentioned above, I am seriously thinking of throwing down on a small XT for my daughter to replace her 2015 Process, which has served her well but has reached the end of its useful life for her. The XT Druid is CHEAPER than a new Kona Process I was looking at for her.

In Fernie all week. Have had 2 good rides so far. Heading out this aft for the next one.

I had a spill yesterday and am shaken up a bit today but most importantly, phone, watch and bike are A-Ok. Lol. I had my phone in my front pocket to access TrailForks. I thought for sure it was toast. I think I need to crank up my LSC on my fork a tad - it felt like my front end crumbled on me coming off a series of small "stump jumps". It's so dry here too that my 2.5 DHF likely washed out a bit on me.

At the moment, the only thing I am not crazy about is that at times, the drivetrain sounds a little like an e-bike. Lol. I had two guys ask me that in Fernie. Apart from that, this thing has been climbing and descending like a champ. It's amazing how much softer the ground is in BC than Alberta, even with the drought that's going on here.

A bit of a smoke show here at the moment (literally), but happy to report that the Druid is performing at its peak. Squeaks, pooched idler bearings and other issues aside, we are all very fortunate to be able to enjoy whatever terrain we are riding with this bike.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

fullmetalski said:


> I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?
> 
> I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.
> 
> Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


Zero mechanical issue on my XL XT complete. 500 miles of rough singletrack on it. Seen a few post about creaky linkages on here, mine has been dead quiet and silky smooth


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## Louella (Jul 20, 2020)

*Creaking*









Originally Posted by fullmetalski 
_I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?

I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.

Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??_

Hello Louella from Forbidden here

Please give us a shout at [email protected] so we can get your creaking issue resolved


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

revver said:


> Hi, I have the same experience. Brand new frame build up. Cracking sound came on 2nd ride. Brought down to my LBS and they found that the left lower axle cap, nearest to crank arm was lacking a tad of grease, and the swing arm movement was on the harder side. All bearings were greased and ok, all linkage axles were ok.
> 
> After grease was applied, cracking sound gone. Apparently the Druid uses a slightly different axle cap that acts as a load bearer too, from what I understand. So grease was needed at the cap sides too.
> 
> I will update again after a few more rides.


I also had a creaking sound. I contacted Forbidden, and had a good back and forth with them. They've suggested a straightforward explanation and fix, and I'll post here with the details of that fix once I do it and ride a few times.

I encourage anyone who has an issue to contact them, so far it's been really good (I've communicated with Louella and Jonathan). Obviously I'd rather my bike was perfect from the get-go, but as I'm buying something from a smaller, growing company in super challenging times, I get that some things might not be ideal. If I can't fix it and/or they go radio silent, maybe that opinion changes.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

*Hightower versus Druid*

Hey guys - I'm currently riding a 2020 SC Hightower v2. I've got it spec'd out and it rides great, but I've always felt the rear ended to be slightly off from what I'm looking for.

I almost pulled the trigger last night selling my frame to someone so I could buy the Druid and move everything over.

Anyone here have any experience comparing the two bikes? Specifically the new Hightower with the lower linkage?


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*I have this noise too, and contacted Forbidden*



fullmetalski said:


> I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?
> 
> I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.
> 
> Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. :madmax: Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


(possible re-post: previous one vanished) I have this noise too--rides great, but makes an unpleasant noise. I contacted Forbidden (I communicated with Louella and Jonathan) and got a clear explanation of what's going on and a straightforward possible fix. I will post the details of that fix once I do it and test it.

I urge you to contact Forbidden--they've been really responsive and helpful in trying to figure things out. Sure, I'd much prefer that the bike worked perfectly right away, but I also realize that this a different product from a smaller, growing company during super challenging times, so I am ok with dealing with some things. If I can't get things resolved, maybe my opinion will change, but it all seems reasonable so far.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

fullmetalski said:


> I've seen several posts in this thread about people experiencing linkage creaking/noise. Has anyone gotten it to stop long-term? Will Forbidden do anything if we're experiencing this on a brand new bike?
> 
> I've had my XT complete for 2 weeks now, creaking started on ride one. After three rides I was pretty pissed at the level of noise and put the bike on the work stand to try and figure this out. With the rear wheel off and air let out of the shock, I can move the rear triangle through travel and hear significant creaking from the linkage area. I took the entire linkage apart, cleaned, regreased, and retorqued. The noises were gone for one ride but have started back up after two.
> 
> Really frustrated that a brand new (not inexpensive) bike is having issues like this right out of the box. Anyone else experience this and get a long-term fix??


(possible re-post: previous one vanished) I have this noise too--rides great, but makes an unpleasant noise. I contacted Forbidden (I communicated with Louella and Jonathan) and got a clear explanation of what's going on and a straightforward possible fix. I will post the details of that fix once I do it and test it.

I'd suggest you to contact Forbidden--they've been really responsive and helpful in trying to figure things out. Sure, I'd much prefer that the bike worked perfectly right away, but I also realize that this a different product from a smaller, growing company during super challenging times, so I am ok with dealing with some things. If I can't get things resolved, maybe my opinion will change, but it all seems reasonable so far.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> Hey guys - I'm currently riding a 2020 SC Hightower v2. I've got it spec'd out and it rides great, but I've always felt the rear ended to be slightly off from what I'm looking for.
> 
> I almost pulled the trigger last night selling my frame to someone so I could buy the Druid and move everything over.
> 
> Anyone here have any experience comparing the two bikes? Specifically the new Hightower with the lower linkage?


No help re the new gen HT (assuming it's post 2018). FWIW though, I carefully demoed what I assume was the prior gen HT (a 2018 HT). IMHO, there is a world of difference between that bike and the Druid. That said, I have always found all VPP suspended bikes to ride WAY too firmly for my taste. I wanted to buy the HT but frankly, I rated it last out of the bikes I demoed. The bizarre thing is that I find the Druid's rear suspension to be very efficient, yet plush. An oxymoron? Perhaps. As usual though, different strokes for different folks. Everyone has a different idea of what is best for them, their riding style and their terrain. I have never liked VPP bikes, and I still don't.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

mtnbkrmike said:


> No help re the new gen HT (assuming it's post 2018). FWIW though, I carefully demoed what I assume was the prior gen HT (a 2018 HT). IMHO, there is a world of difference between that bike and the Druid. That said, I have always found all VPP suspended bikes to ride WAY too firmly for my taste. I wanted to buy the HT but frankly, I rated it last out of the bikes I demoed. The bizarre thing is that I find the Druid's rear suspension to be very efficient, yet plush. An oxymoron? Perhaps. As usual though, different strokes for different folks. Everyone has a different idea of what is best for them, their riding style and their terrain. I have never liked VPP bikes, and I still don't.


Yeah the new lower link VPP system feels entirely different. I had the old 2018 HTLT and noticed a huge change moving to the new 2020 HT with the lower linkage vpp. It's far better over the square hits - like an entirely different suspension system kind of different.

But - still doesn't ride exactly how I wanted it to.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

tkrumroy said:


> Hey guys - I'm currently riding a 2020 SC Hightower v2. I've got it spec'd out and it rides great, but I've always felt the rear ended to be slightly off from what I'm looking for.
> 
> I almost pulled the trigger last night selling my frame to someone so I could buy the Druid and move everything over.
> 
> Anyone here have any experience comparing the two bikes? Specifically the new Hightower with the lower linkage?


It's just a bike, try it out and move on if it's not what you're after. You made it this far in so it obviously has your serious interest. The used prices on Pinkbike are ridiculously high so if it doesn't work out you won't lose out on much money - just time.

At least this was the case for me.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*I've had this noise, too*

@ revver: I had this noise, too. I contacted Forbidden, and had an extended back and forth with them. They've hypothesized a simple explanation and a straightforward fix, and I'll share the details once I do it and test it. I found Forbidden receptive and responsive, and encourage others to contact them. Hopefully their fix is also good.

Aside: I've tried to post a version of this comment 3 times now here, and it's never shown up. I don't think I'm screwing up or violating terms of service some how...


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> Yeah the new lower link VPP system feels entirely different. I had the old 2018 HTLT and noticed a huge change moving to the new 2020 HT with the lower linkage vpp. It's far better over the square hits - like an entirely different suspension system kind of different.
> 
> But - still doesn't ride exactly how I wanted it to.


The new version is better descending on square hits but I found it still hung on technical climbs. A bike with rearward axel path will do much better at both.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

hbar said:


> @ revver: I had this noise, too. I contacted Forbidden, and had an extended back and forth with them. They've hypothesized a simple explanation and a straightforward fix, and I'll share the details once I do it and test it. I found Forbidden receptive and responsive, and encourage others to contact them. Hopefully their fix is also good.
> 
> Aside: I've tried to post a version of this comment 3 times now here, and it's never shown up. I don't think I'm screwing up or violating terms of service some how...


Hi, would like to know the suggested remedy for this cracking issue. Please share. Thanks.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

OK - basically you guys are all telling me the Druid performs better than the Hightower in almost every area? lower linkage vpp being outperformed by the high pivot, etc etc? 

What about the extra long chain stays on the rear end? it's significantly longer than the hightower, does that make the bike feel slow and cumbersome on flat trails where you're pedaling the entire time?


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> OK - basically you guys are all telling me the Druid performs better than the Hightower in almost every area? lower linkage vpp being outperformed by the high pivot, etc etc?
> 
> What about the extra long chain stays on the rear end? it's significantly longer than the hightower, does that make the bike feel slow and cumbersome on flat trails where you're pedaling the entire time?


How tall are you? The chainstays are shorter than the HT unless you're looking at the XL. I don't tend to like SC bikes due to their long stays. I ride a 414mm chainstay bike and don't want much longer.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

It would be an XL for me unfortunately. 

And are you looking at the new hightower v2?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> OK - basically you guys are all telling me the Druid performs better than the Hightower in almost every area? lower linkage vpp being outperformed by the high pivot, etc etc?
> 
> What about the extra long chain stays on the rear end? it's significantly longer than the hightower, does that make the bike feel slow and cumbersome on flat trails where you're pedaling the entire time?


I haven't compared numbers but I have been riding my large Druid for the past 5 days in some pretty tightly switchbacks terrain - both up and down. Zero issue. Cumbersome is not a word I would use to describe its handling. For me, I would say it's almost nimble, but perhaps I have not been on any truly nimble bikes for a while now.

As for fast single track, yup. Again, the thing performs as advertised. Fast flowy stuff to slower techy gnar - I never feel like I would prefer to be on a different bike.

My suggestion is to buy it. I don't think you will be disappointed. As for squeaks and other issues mentioned above, that may be a more real risk, although apart from pooched idler bearings, I have been free of any troubles with my first production run large frame (although I did also replace the original linkage with the V2 linkage and the lower linkage). And I have a fair number of miles on it.

Maybe I am wrong on this but performance-wise, I am not aware of a single article or legit user review with anything but overall praise for the bike.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I haven't compared numbers but I have been riding my large Druid for the past 5 days in some pretty tightly switchbacks terrain - both up and down. Zero issue. Cumbersome is not a word I would use to describe its handling. For me, I would say it's almost nimble, but perhaps I have not been on any truly nimble bikes for a while now.
> 
> As for fast single track, yup. Again, the thing performs as advertised. Fast flowy stuff to slower techy gnar - I never feel like I would prefer to be on a different bike.
> 
> ...


I think I may give it a shot here. I'm so worried about getting a bike I won't enjoy as much as this hightower but in reality it's probably not going to be that big of a deal (minus the cash lol).


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> I think I may give it a shot here. I'm so worried about getting a bike I won't enjoy as much as this hightower but in reality it's probably not going to be that big of a deal (minus the cash lol).


Time to eat a little humble pie. Just completed Hyperventilation in Fernie. I am confident a more skilled rider than me would have done better but full disclosure - there were a few switchbacks climbing I couldn't seem to negotiate. Definitely not the bike's fault. Some of those were super tight and steep, and carved into the side of the mountain. I was a little spooked on a few of them after having eaten **** on a ride Monday.

Don't let this dissuade you, but in the spirit of transparency and objectivity, I felt compelled to report back.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

tkrumroy said:


> I think I may give it a shot here. I'm so worried about getting a bike I won't enjoy as much as this hightower but in reality it's probably not going to be that big of a deal (minus the cash lol).


if you enjoy the HT so much - why are you looking to move?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Time to eat a little humble pie. Just completed Hyperventilation in Fernie. I am confident a more skilled rider than me would have done better but full disclosure - there were a few switchbacks climbing I couldn't seem to negotiate. Definitely not the bike's fault. Some of those were super tight and steep, and carved into the side of the mountain. I was a little spooked on a few of them after having eaten **** on a ride Monday.
> 
> Don't let this dissuade you, but in the spirit of transparency and objectivity, I felt compelled to report back.


Just looked up the trail, a black diamond climb trail? Ha, insane.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Time to eat a little humble pie. *Just completed Hyperventilation in Fernie*. I am confident a more skilled rider than me would have done better but full disclosure - there were a few switchbacks climbing I couldn't seem to negotiate. Definitely not the bike's fault. Some of those were super tight and steep, and carved into the side of the mountain. I was a little spooked on a few of them after having eaten **** on a ride Monday.
> 
> Don't let this dissuade you, but in the spirit of transparency and objectivity, I felt compelled to report back.


Did you take the old [f***ing horrible] line about halfway up or the newer non-satanic line? I took the old line last year doing the Trail to Ale challenge and set a new max HR whilst taking a year off my life. That's a good year, mind you, not one of the crappy ones at the end.

Regardless, it's definitely not the bike's fault. I've only cleaned that climb a handful of times in 10+ years of riding it. Did you do Project 9? I have a better success rate on that one.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> It would be an XL for me unfortunately.
> 
> And are you looking at the new hightower v2?


Yeah, 17.01" Exept for XL


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Just looked up the trail, a black diamond climb trail? Ha, insane.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, we do that a lot around here. Don't let XC racers design your climb trails. Case in point: Pneuma.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Did you take the old [f***ing horrible] line about halfway up or the newer non-satanic line? I took the old line last year doing the Trail to Ale challenge and set a new max HR whilst taking a year off my life. That's a good year, mind you, not one of the crappy ones at the end.
> 
> Regardless, it's definitely not the bike's fault. I've only cleaned that climb a handful of times in 10+ years of riding it. Did you do Project 9? I have a better success rate on that one.


i did project 9 last year. decent climb - very decent down. good times.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Did you take the old [f***ing horrible] line about halfway up or the newer non-satanic line? I took the old line last year doing the Trail to Ale challenge and set a new max HR whilst taking a year off my life. That's a good year, mind you, not one of the crappy ones at the end.
> 
> Regardless, it's definitely not the bike's fault. I've only cleaned that climb a handful of times in 10+ years of riding it. Did you do Project 9? I have a better success rate on that one.


P9 is first thing tomorrow :thumbsup:

In the meantime there have been plenty of pre-ride P9s...









I think I took the easiest way up (and down) Hyper V. I think this may have been the badass climb option you are referring to:









There were a few short "Pro Line" options on the way down Hyper Extension that I skipped. I had my daughter with me and was scared shitless that she was going to fall off the mountain on the way up, and have a serious yard sale on the way down. I tried to lead her up and down the path of least resistance. As it turned out, she did well. Very proud of her.

I had her on that trail (and P9 tomorrow) as a little test for the Trail to Ale challenge, that I may do with her before the snow flies. She is fine on Swine Flu.

I forgot about the exposure in places on the way up. That's a serious trail, up and down. Absolutely love it. Apart from some of the switchbacks, while definitely more of a slow stop and start grind than anything else (while waiting for my daughter), the climb was 100% rideable for me atop the mighty Druid (although I did switch to the climb circuit on my 11-6). Thought I ripped open my perineum though at one point on the nose of my saddle on a botched switchback attempt on the way up, but apart from that, no casualties.

I want to do that ride very soon solo, or with one of my buddies from Fernie.

That trail is a work of art. Reminds me of the engineering genius behind the stretch of highway coming into Golden.

We had a blast today. We are still talking about it.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*reat sus creaking noise: possible fix*

So I had the rear sus creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally, I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction.

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a little weird design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more accurate, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could just sand it by hand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly as your sanding block, too.

The stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side worked this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I don't know how to do pics and such, but if those are important, i could figure it out.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*rear sus creaking noise: possible fix*

(does anyone have posts just disappear?--second try here)
I had the rear sus creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally, I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction.

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a little weird design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more accurate, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could just sand it by hand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly as your sanding block, too.

The stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side worked this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I don't know how to do pics and such, but if those are important, i could figure it out.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*rear sus creaking noise: possible fix*

(sorry for possible repost: previous two tries (!) never posted )

I had the rear sus creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally (side to side), I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction!

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a somewhat unusual design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind against the dust covers. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more controlled, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm diameter stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could probably just sand it freehand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could also probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly) as your sanding block, instead of making one.

Forbidden said that the stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side and all the other suspension bearings already behaved this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I could post pics if the above description doesn't make sense.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


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## Ben39 (Jun 8, 2020)

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/bike-check-lewis-buchanans-prototype-forbidden-race-bike.html

Check this out!


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

*New suspension setups*



onawave said:


> if you enjoy the HT so much - why are you looking to move?


I really think it's just me trying to learn new suspension setups and bike geometries so I know what I really want. I don't want to be one of those guys that swears loyalty to one bike company or one suspension design while never trying anything else.

So far I've owned a Horst link YT Jeffsy, an upper and lower linkage VPP, and now a Druid that I shut ordered Friday night.

Next that I want to try is the DW link like an Ibis Ripmo or a switchblade. I've ridden both at demos but never owned them to really make a decision.

Excited about the Druid shipping this week!!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> I really think it's just me trying to learn new suspension setups and bike geometries so I know what I really want. I don't want to be one of those guys that swears loyalty to one bike company or one suspension design while never trying anything else.
> 
> So far I've owned a Horst link YT Jeffsy, an upper and lower linkage VPP, and now a Druid that I shut ordered Friday night.
> 
> ...


incredible. Congrats!

Really looking forward to your feedback.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

(sorry for possible repost: previous two (!) never posted)

I had the rear sus creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally (side to side), I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction!

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a somewhat unusual design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind against the dust covers. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more controlled, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm diameter stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could probably just sand it freehand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could also probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly) as your sanding block, instead of making one.

Forbidden said that the stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side and all the other suspension bearings already behaved this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I could post pics if the above description doesn't make sense.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*creaking noise possible fix*

(sorry for possible repost: previous two tries (!) never posted)

I had the rear sus creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally (side to side), I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction!

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a somewhat unusual design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind against the dust covers. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more controlled, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm diameter stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could probably just sand it freehand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could also probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly) as your sanding block, instead of making one.

Forbidden said that the stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side and all the other suspension bearings already behaved this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I could post pics if the above description doesn't make sense.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


----------



## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

(sorry for possible repost: previous three (!) never posted)

I had the rear suspension creaking noise on my new XT build. My symptoms were a ticking/fretting noise off the top and when leaning into a corner. Also, when I grabbed the rear wheel and pulled laterally (side to side), I could make it make a ticking noise (as a control I did this to an SC and Ibis, and they were quiet). Such noises drive me to distraction!

I talked to Forbidden (Jonathan was really helpful) and took apart the linkage a few times, and we narrowed it down to the lower pivot on the rear triangle. When I torqued it to spec it became stiffer, and would make the noise. Backing off the torque made it happen much less, and made it move freely.

Inspecting the inside of the rear triangle where the dust covers go, you could see that the clear coat/paint was being rubbed by the cover (for me it was on the drive side). Here, the dust covers 'seal' against the clear coat, which is a somewhat unusual design choice (to me). The hypothesis was that the paint/clearcoat was too thick, and caused it to bind against the dust covers. So, Forbidden suggested I sand off some of the clearcoat where rubbing was evident.

To make this sanding process bit more controlled, I made a 34mm diameter part on a lathe, with a little < 15 mm diameter stub to keep it concentric with the bearing. I stuck fine (320 grit) sandpaper to it with double sticky tape. You could probably just sand it freehand, particularly if the rear triangle was off the bike. You could also probably use a large flat socket (like for fork disassembly) as your sanding block, instead of making one.

Forbidden said that the stopping point for the sanding is when the dust cover presses enough onto the bearing inner race that you can spin the bearing with the dust cover. (the non-drive side and all the other suspension bearings already behaved this way). I had to take a fair bit off to make this work--I got down to some darker colors on part of the surface.

I've now reassembled, and tested for creaks and movement, and it's all smooth and quiet. Riding around the neighborhood has so far been quiet. However, I did assemble with a fair amount of grease on all surfaces, so the first real test will be after a ride or two. I would have liked to have waited till after then to describe this, but I figured I'd give others with the problem a chance to fix it over the weekend. I'll follow up after a few rides.

I could post pics if the above description doesn't make sense.

Good luck, and again, this all came out of discussions with Forbidden--I'd contact them if you're experiencing this, in case it's a bad batch/process problem.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> I really think it's just me trying to learn new suspension setups and bike geometries so I know what I really want. I don't want to be one of those guys that swears loyalty to one bike company or one suspension design while never trying anything else.
> 
> So far I've owned a Horst link YT Jeffsy, an upper and lower linkage VPP, and now a Druid that I shut ordered Friday night.
> 
> ...


DW link will suck after ridden druid. Trust me

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

jpec29 said:


> DW link will stuck after ridden druid. Trust me
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I love chunky trails, climbing and decending them. IMHO DW mini link bikes have so much focus on antisquat at sag they hang up. The Druid was the first bike outside of Canfield Bikes that pedaling in chunk so well. Dw link is great on fire roads. But so is a climb switch.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

off topic, but on topic because I have tried to post a Druid related mechanical fix...

Does anyone else have problems posting to this thread? I have tried to post a similar post like 4 times over the last 4 days and it doesn't show up. A note shows up after hitting submit saying it will appear after being looked at by a moderator. I wrote to the "Contact Us" link below, and it bounced. I have tried the "quick" and the "advanced" replies, both haven't worked. What am I doing wrong? thanks in advance.

Edit: but this one posted! so confused.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)




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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Beautiful shots!

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

cheezwhip said:


> Beautiful shots!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk


Thanks man. It was a fantastic fall ride that I had the privilege of doing with my daughter. That ride is 45 minutes from my driveway. I am very fortunate. So are you. We all are.

Speaking of whom...

I have an appointment with my local Forbidden dealer tomorrow to see if a medium SLX build is the right size for my daughter. I think it will be too big - but no problem, because Forbidden has small XT builds available! Her birthday is coming up. Could there possibly be a better present?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks man. It was a fantastic fall ride that I had the privilege of doing with my daughter. That ride is 45 minutes from my driveway. I am very fortunate. So are you. We all are.
> 
> Speaking of whom...
> 
> I have an appointment with my local Forbidden dealer tomorrow to see if a medium SLX build is the right size for my daughter. I think it will be too big - but no problem, because Forbidden has small XT builds available! Her birthday is coming up. Could there possibly be a better present?


Moose mountain?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Moose mountain?


Prairieview/Jewell Pass.

How are you enjoying your Druid? Are you getting a crap load of fall riding in?

I'm planning another trip right now. I'm on fire!


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Prairieview/Jewell Pass.


maybe thats the one im thinking of. Just before you get to canmore on the left hand side aye. i always see cars parked up there but have never had the time to stop and go for a ride.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> maybe thats the one im thinking of. Just before you get to canmore on the left hand side aye. i always see cars parked up there but have never had the time to stop and go for a ride.


That's Razor's Edge. Same trail network. An absolute beauty. We blasted by the trail entrance to Razor's around 5 PM tonight. It's on the second half of Prairieview - on the descent from the summit before you connect with Jewell.

Hard pass on Razor's with my daughter, unfortunately. Hopefully next year she will be ready for it. You need to be a strong rider to carry momentum through that trail to maintain flow. Plus the some of the slab rides would be a little sketch for her in areas. I have invested way too much money in her smile to risk it today - enough to fund the next decade of Christmas vacations to Hawaii for her orthodontist and his family. I'm sure they would have been all for us hitting Razor's.

It IS a beauty though.

I guess you basically nailed that trail though. That's the summit of Prairieview where we took the shots. Razor's is an offshoot off of the descent on Prairieview, that ultimately leads to the highway where you see the parked cars (we parked at Barrier Dam off Hwy 40 and rode up Prairieview). So Alan...well done on the trail id. Bravo!

Here's a TrailForks screenshot. We did the yellow route counterclockwise, parking at the blue P off Hwy 40. The summit is at the purple X. To do Razors, you park on the main highway (Hwy 1) and come in on Quaite Creek, which is the green trail, climb the bottom of Prairieview, and take a hard left onto Razor's, which is where the sphincter tightening fun begins. I see TrailForks has Razor's listed as a double black...


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Well my storia finally came in and after some spring swapping I have have it running mint.
It’s kinda crazy how much better the bike performs with a coil in the back.

Now the fox 36 grip 2 definitely feels underwhelming matched to the storia. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Well my storia finally came in and after some spring swapping I have have it running mint.
> It's kinda crazy how much better the bike performs with a coil in the back.
> 
> Now the fox 36 grip 2 definitely feels underwhelming matched to the storia.
> ...


Nice!

My sense is that almost any fork may be outmatched by almost any shock on that bike. There were some prior posters who claimed that the stock DPX2 significantly outperformed their PUSH or Vorsprung coil converted fork. The ass end of that bike is truly magical.

But I hear you on the coil. I'm very happy as well with my 11-6.

You need to go matchy matchy with the EXT ERA! I am pondering going full Smashpot next year but honestly, my 2019 GRIP2 36 is seriously nice. Best fork by far I have ever owned. People seem to love to **** all over Fox these days. Most of them seem to be disciples of a prolific poster who happens to be a Manitou dealer. I don't get it, but I also barely give a **** too. I know what works for me. And the minute it stops doing so, it's gone. No brand loyalty with me. Or sack riding for that matter.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice!
> 
> My sense is that almost any fork may be outmatched by almost any shock on that bike. There were some prior posters who claimed that the stock DPX2 significantly outperformed their PUSH or Vorsprung coil converted fork. The ass end of that bike is truly magical.
> 
> ...


I think that any coil would work great on this bike. An 11.6 or storia probably isn't needed, but pretty nice to have it.

I have an Era on order! Was told that it will ship out of Italy maybe today. (So looking forward to giving this a go)
I had also pondered an ohlins setup for this bike, I have an ohlins m.2 fork and ttx22m coil on another bike, and that combo is amazingly!

I don't think they are wrong about the Manitou mezzer. I know I'd like to give it a shot! 
I have found that the 2021 fox 36 is also a great fork! I have 1 on another bike, and have found it to be much better than the 2020 version. A lot more supple and forgiving in the rough stuff.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have an appointment with my local Forbidden dealer tomorrow to see if a medium SLX build is the right size for my daughter. I think it will be too big - but no problem, because Forbidden has small XT builds available! Her birthday is coming up. Could there possibly be a better present?


I am available for adoption


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

From Cumberland BC to Cumbria UK*:









Taking in the view at the top of Skiddaw









Seconds later a sharp rock tears through my DHR II tyre.









Having descended off the top of Skiddaw down some seriously steep, scree switchbacks (when I say descend I mean surf). If you look closely enough you may just see the descent starting from the top on the background contour (it pretty much starts in line with the end of my bars ) This is Ullock Pike which is an amazing steep, technical, ridgeline descent (you can see Ullock pike in the background of the previous two photos).

I think this is the 11th or 12th ride on the Druid. For a little bike it does really excel descending. It's such a nimble, agile, composed bike.

*stolen comment from Forbidden themselves from my Insta post.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I think that any coil would work great on this bike. An 11.6 or storia probably isn't needed, but pretty nice to have it.
> 
> I have an Era on order! Was told that it will ship out of Italy maybe today. (So looking forward to giving this a go)
> I had also pondered an ohlins setup for this bike, I have an ohlins m.2 fork and ttx22m coil on another bike, and that combo is amazingly!
> ...


Man I've been holding out to hear your impressions on the ext storia.
I've also been obsessing about magura brakes since I seen yours and was having issues with mine. 
I went and got new rotors and gave the codes a full over haul that night, rode sun peaks and revelstoke with the most powerful brakes I've had in a long time.

P. S. Thanks again For showing around


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

It's taken a little while to get the storia set up to my liking, but yes I'm pretty happy with it now!

Glad to hear you got your brake issue figured out. An upgrade you can give your Codes is trick stuff pads! 
I put a pair on my Cura 4 brakes, and they are almost scary powerful.

Yes it was good meeting you and going out for that rip! It would be great to hear that you moved to the area someday! 
The conditions in Kamloops and Revy must have been mint after that rain we had that day. Sounds like you had a good time 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> It's taken a little while to get the storia set up to my liking, but yes I'm pretty happy with it now!
> 
> Glad to hear you got your brake issue figured out. An upgrade you can give your Codes is trick stuff pads!
> I put a pair on my Cura 4 brakes, and they are almost scary powerful.
> ...


Haha ild love to tell you I was moving out there lol. 
Conditions were prime, I put a couple videos on YouTube if you wana check them out.






As for trickstuff brake pads, I hear they wear super fast?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Nice! I’ll check it out. 

So far they have lasted longer than the stock formula pads that came on the brakes. 
Time will tell though. So far so good. 


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks man. It was a fantastic fall ride that I had the privilege of doing with my daughter. That ride is 45 minutes from my driveway. I am very fortunate. So are you. We all are.
> 
> Speaking of whom...
> 
> I have an appointment with my local Forbidden dealer tomorrow to see if a medium SLX build is the right size for my daughter. I think it will be too big - but no problem, because Forbidden has small XT builds available! Her birthday is coming up. Could there possibly be a better present?


Ahh yes - treasured times indeed.

LoL @ adoption


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

If you have the rear sus creaking noise on a newer XT Druid, I talked with Forbidden and they suggested sanding down the clear coat where the inner dust caps/spacers sit. It's too thick and causes the dust caps to bind. I did this, and so far after 50 miles in it's been perfectly quiet. Forbidden was really helpful sorting it out, I encourage you to contact them. 

feel free to DM me if you want more details on what I did.


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

*Multiple Chain breaks, so frustrating, here's my set up....*

So, I transferred the following to my druid small frame:

RaceFace Next SL cranks and BB
RaceFace 28T chainring (new)
X01 11 spd rear mech
E-thirteen 9-46 11 spd rear cassette (new)

LBS in West Vancouver built it up for me, with a new Sram 11 spd chain.

First ride, the "somewhat" finicky attachment for the cranks was loose. Had that fixed.

Then 4 rides later, multiple broken chains on one ride. Took "new" links and added them. All good for perhaps 6-7 rides, including some hard climbs and short bursts (comfortably numb in Whistler, North Van Fromme climbing trail, slick rock trail in Moab).

Then yesterday, Fromme climbing trail, 3 chain breaks. UGH. Had to remove 3 links. Chain got super tight, but salvaged my ride.

Has anyone else had this problem? Seems like its quite an art form to determine the exact correct number of links when considering all the variables of chainring, cassette, etc. I think a really good LBS mechanic is needed who has the magic touch to align it all. This bike should work fine with an 11 speed setup, and I'm trying to avoi







d buying a whole new drivetrain to stop this from happening.

Should I be trying a KMC chain? Any help or ideas greatly appreciated!


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

> I'm trying to avoid buying a whole new drivetrain to stop this from happening.


You don't need a new drivetrain, get a new chain and use the correct missing link. I personally have never had an issue with KMC chains. I do avoid buying from ebay bargain sellers as there are so make fakes being sold


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

I think its less about the brand of chain, than the correct # of links. How do I figure that out??


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

steinline said:


> I think its less about the brand of chain, than the correct # of links. How do I figure that out??


On a normal full sus bike, you run the chain through its normal route on the biggest cogs. Skip past the Derailure. At full compression you hold the chain so it meets, then add 2x links.
Job done. 
Make sure you have your lower chain guide where you would run it.


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

"skip past the derailleur"? what do you mean? run the chain through the front ring, biggest cassette cog, and chainguide - but no the rear mech?


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

steinline said:


> "skip past the derailleur"? what do you mean? run the chain through the front ring, biggest cassette cog, and chainguide - but no the rear mech?


Yep, park tool has a video on YouTube I'm pretty sure, step. By step. Could be differant for the druid being its 100% reward axle path.


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

Thanks!!


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

steinline said:


> Thanks!!


Just found this on forbidden Web site. https://www.forbiddenbike.com/pages/maximizing-gear-shifting-performance


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Not sure what’s up with that but coincidentally, I commented on a ride yesterday that I personally have not seen a broken chain by anyone I ride with since about 2015. I thought that chain breaks were of historical significance only. 

Not sure about compatibility but SRAM chains last forever. 

I ran my bike for 2 weeks (10+ rides) with no lower chain guide. My chain was way too long. No issues. 

Maybe I didn’t go heavy enough on the squats last winter...


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Has anyone run a Marzocchi CR coil on the druid yet?
ive looked into having one avalanche tuned for the druid and my weight etc.
Cost Almost puts it in the realm of push or ext, so wondering if anyone has just run one with out tunning.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Alanc12 said:


> Just found this on forbidden Web site. https://www.forbiddenbike.com/pages/maximizing-gear-shifting-performance


Crazy, I didn't know they had defined that. It had always been a bit of a guessing game, especially apparent when reading through this forum. I'm running a stock XX1 (126 link) chain with 30t/11-50t AXS drivetrain on a size Large frame and have zero issues shifting. I wonder what +4 links would do for me...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Crazy, I didn't know they had defined that. It had always been a bit of a guessing game, especially apparent when reading through this forum. I'm running a stock XX1 (126 link) chain with 30t/11-50t AXS drivetrain on a size Large frame and have zero issues shifting. I wonder what +4 links would do for me...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


if it aint broke, dont fix it.
im running a few links short and have tested the full range of movement. seems fine.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Alanc12 said:


> if it aint broke, dont fix it.
> im running a few links short and have tested the full range of movement. seems fine.


Yep, agree!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Crazy, I didn't know they had defined that. It had always been a bit of a guessing game, especially apparent when reading through this forum. I'm running a stock XX1 (126 link) chain with 30t/11-50t AXS drivetrain on a size Large frame and have zero issues shifting. I wonder what +4 links would do for me...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So, how much do you love that AXS set up? I really want that.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

steinline said:


> So, how much do you love that AXS set up? I really want that.


Honestly, I didn't think it'd make that big of a difference but I was putting together a dream build and pretty much had to include AXS. Shifting under load is unreal, micro adjustments, clean look, I absolutely love it. It made much more of an impact than I ever thought it could. If I can continue to afford it, I won't be going back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Quick question for you Druid lovers...

It shouldn't matter but it kinda does.

The SLX frame is beautiful. The XT build is beautiful. 

Anyone have any comments cosmetically on the Mr. Brownstone?

PS - picked up another idler and lower chain guide roller assembly. I should be good now for a bit.

PPS - anyone have any mileage in yet with the Ziggy Link?


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Where did you get an idler? their website says sold out (in the US anyway.) I'd like another one! 

Mr. Brownstone is an underrated color, in my unbiased XT-owner opinion.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question for you Druid lovers...
> 
> It shouldn't matter but it kinda does.
> 
> ...


I wasn't sold in Mr brownstone to start with but I really like the look of it. Not sure if your daughter would agree with a brown bike but it's nice. You'll ha e to sell her on the accent colours lol

I have the ziggy link but yet to fitntoo bike so can't help ya there


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*B tension setting question*

I just went through this how-to from Forbidden about setting b-tension:

https://us.forbiddenbike.com/pages/maximizing-gear-shifting-performance

is this what you folks are doing to set B-tension? It gave me a very different tension than the guide-mark on the Shimano (XT) derailer.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question for you Druid lovers...
> 
> It shouldn't matter but it kinda does.
> 
> ...


I ordered a complete bike because of the lack of availability of frame sets coupled with the fact that I don't have a boost wheel, crankset with boost chain line (coming off of an SB+ bike) and I need the longer chain. All of the remaining parts will be replaced with parts from my current (SB+) bike.

Despite the fact that I wasn't keeping the vast majority of the parts (transferring to my SB+ frame so I can sell it), I was still very tempted by the value of the XT build. I also prefer blue steel Over Mr. B.

Ultimately I ran out of patience, and pulled the trigger on the SLX build. The color and the $700 that I don't need to make up in the sale of my old bike helped to sweeten the deal.

I should have my blue steel bike next week!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

incubus said:


> I ordered a complete bike because of the lack of availability of frame sets coupled with the fact that I don't have a boost wheel, crankset with boost chain line (coming off of an SB+ bike) and I need the longer chain. All of the remaining parts will be replaced with parts from my current (SB+) bike.
> 
> Despite the fact that I wasn't keeping the vast majority of the parts (transferring to my SB+ frame so I can sell it), I was still very tempted by the value of the XT build. I also prefer blue steel Over Mr. B.
> 
> ...


I saw both frames in person yesterday. IMHO, the Blue Steel is a grand slam home run. I like the gray brown on the Mr. B too.

If I could rationalize ordering another frame only and building it myself, the Cosmic Eggplant is killer. I saw that one a few weeks ago. Holy crap. With a factory orange fork and coil shock, that frame is almost cosmetically perfect (IMHO), especially for my daughter. I spent a fortune building my frame only Druid. I'm not doing it on hers too, now that complete builds are available at what seems to be incredibly reasonable pricing.

Either complete build is overkill for my daughter, but even the XT build is less than the generic Kona I was going to throw down on for her.

She was staring at photos last night. I will see what she says this morning.

I may just wait a bit. Apart from trying to get it in time for her birthday, there is no real reason to rush now. Snow will be flying within weeks.

Apologies for the superficial discussion. Thanks for your input.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hbar said:


> Where did you get an idler? their website says sold out (in the US anyway.) I'd like another one!


One of the many advantages of having a local Forbidden dealer.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

hbar said:


> I just went through this how-to from Forbidden about setting b-tension:
> 
> https://us.forbiddenbike.com/pages/maximizing-gear-shifting-performance
> 
> is this what you folks are doing to set B-tension? It gave me a very different tension than the guide-mark on the Shimano (XT) derailer.


I definitely did NOT do that, and my shifting has been excellent from day one. I just used the marks on the Shimano rear derailleur. Now you have me wanting to try Forbidden's method... :skep:


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

I keep trying to tell myself an XL is too small at 6'6" coming off an XL GG Smash (which, could be a tad shorter for me).... But now that they're back in stock hard to say no.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I keep trying to tell myself an XL is too small at 6'6" coming off an XL GG Smash (which, could be a tad shorter for me).... But now that they're back in stock hard to say no.


I was briefly on an XL yesterday. Parking lot only but nonetheless...


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I was briefly on an XL yesterday. Parking lot only but nonetheless...


I got an XL at 6'2" and hoping that it's the right size for me. I'm right on the brink and typically like bigger bikes so hopefully I didn't make the bad call.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

tkrumroy said:


> I got an XL at 6'2" and hoping that it's the right size for me. I'm right on the brink and typically like bigger bikes so hopefully I didn't make the bad call.


Does anyone else calculate the span/spread? It's the square root of reach2 + stack2

Will give you a better idea


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Alanc12 said:


> Does anyone else calculate the span/spread? It's the square root of reach2 + stack2
> 
> Will give you a better idea


Hadn't heard of that before. 
Smash on top, Druid below. 847 vs 809.








Also just checked the XXL megatower dims at 515/666mm which gives just shy of 842. 
Was trying to compare the two, and have been unable to get on an Xl druid to see how it feels. I don't like feeling like i'm "on top" of the bike, like a bmx bike. Have enjoyed actually having a bit of a cockpit on the Smash, but with a 50mm stem and slight sweep in my bars its a tad long when climbing and end up a bit too bent over. Could go back to a 35mm stem or slightly shorter reach. The XXL megatower fit like a glove and is slightly smaller than the smash. I'm an engineer and was designing my own high pivot when the druid came out. It checked all the boxes, except size for me. Wonder if they ever plan to make an XXl. Doubtful i'd guess.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Hadn't heard of that before.
> Smash on top, Druid below. 847 vs 809.
> View attachment 1365731
> 
> Was trying to compare the two, and have been unable to get on an Xl druid to see how it feels. I don't like feeling like i'm "on top" of the bike, like a bmx bike. Have enjoyed actually having a bit of a cockpit on the Smash, but with a 50mm stem and slight sweep in my bars its a tad long when climbing and end up a bit too bent over. Could go back to a 35mm stem or slightly shorter reach. The XXL megatower fit like a glove and is slightly smaller than the smash. I'm an engineer and was designing my own high pivot when the druid came out. It checked all the boxes, except size for me. Wonder if they ever plan to make an XXl. Doubtful i'd guess.


The smash is a long frekn bike huh.
The span/spread is basically the measurement from feet too hand position, it's a good way to figure how stretched out you will be.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Hadn't heard of that before.
> Smash on top, Druid below. 847 vs 809.
> View attachment 1365731
> 
> ...


Maybe the deviate highlander would be a better fit?


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## smudge (Jan 12, 2004)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Hadn't heard of that before.
> Smash on top, Druid below. 847 vs 809.
> 
> 
> ...


FWIW, I wouldn't compare two bikes that way. You're distilling two variables into one number, which if given too much importance, is misleading. It's not any better than comparing ETT between two bikes that may or may not have vastly different STA.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tkrumroy said:


> I got an XL at 6'2" and hoping that it's the right size for me. I'm right on the brink and typically like bigger bikes so hopefully I didn't make the bad call.


Almost certainly the right size. A large would be too small in my opinion, especially if you like to err on the large side.

I am 5'11" and could EASILY ride that XL and love it. My L fits me nicely but in my view, it feels small compared to my Konas.

Don't sweat it. You will love it.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

smudge said:


> FWIW, I wouldn't compare two bikes that way. You're distilling two variables into one number, which if given too much importance, is misleading. It's not any better than comparing ETT between two bikes that may or may not have vastly different STA.


I completely agree, this one number should not be the only thing to consider. But it is another tool for comparison, especially if you are unable to view the bike in question.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Almost certainly the right size. A large would be too small in my opinion, especially if you like to err on the large side.
> 
> I am 5'11" and could EASILY ride that XL and love it. My L fits me nicely but in my view, it feels small compared to my Konas.
> 
> Don't sweat it. You will love it.


I should edit that - my concern is more so that the bike will be too short even in an XL and i'll be kneeing the bars. FWIW i sat on a 2018/9 XXL sentinel and it felt like a kids bike and i could knee the bars while i was pedaling, so it's pretty odd how small geo differences can make a huge impact.

the Smash is indeed a freakishly long/large bike. Part of the reason i'd like to move on is how high it feels compared to when i rode the megatower. the smash climbs well and rides about anything you put in front of it, but just feels tall in corners/slow tech.

Agreed the single variable calculation isn't the best way to compare but helps visualize the size difference now that i think of it more. 
Wish i could hop on an XL in the PNW. Hopefully Fanatik gets an XL demo one day.

I'll look into the highlander more, but am way more into the druid than the highlander. Maybe i'll just wait and see what the longer travel geo is like on the "pagan"

Multi quote is failing me hard right now.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I should edit that - my concern is more so that the bike will be too short even in an XL and i'll be kneeing the bars. FWIW i sat on a 2018/9 XXL sentinel and it felt like a kids bike and i could knee the bars while i was pedaling, so it's pretty odd how small geo differences can make a huge impact.
> 
> the Smash is indeed a freakishly long/large bike. Part of the reason i'd like to move on is how high it feels compared to when i rode the megatower. the smash climbs well and rides about anything you put in front of it, but just feels tall in corners/slow tech.
> 
> ...


I'm 6'2 and ride XL fits great. I'm in PNW

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

jpec29 said:


> I'm 6'2 and ride XL fits great. I'm in PNW
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Sending you a PM.

Edit - if anyone in the seattle area has an XL they wouldn't mind letting me check out, lemme know!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

After 9 pages, from outta nowhere someone saw fit to banish this thread into the bowels of sub-forum hell. Awesome.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> After 9 pages, from outta nowhere someone saw fit to banish this thread into the bowels of sub-forum hell. Awesome.


What ya mean


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## XZNathan (Aug 10, 2020)

*Creaking in rear linkage*



XZNathan said:


> I've had my Druid for about 2 weeks now and had a similar creaking on my last ride. I've pulled the shock off and cycled the suspension confirming the creak is coming from the linkage.
> 
> I plan on pulling it apart tonight and I guess I know what I should be expecting to find now. Keep us in the loop with the response from Forbidden!
> 
> Amazing bike, but hoping this isn't a sign of things to come..


So after pulling the suspension apart, this is what I found:

























I've been putting off reaching out to Forbidden, but after cleaning, greasing, and assembling to torque spec twice now, I've given in.

It appears that I have a similar problem to hbar, where the clearcoat/paint is too thick to allow the dust cap/seal and rate control linkage to fit properly inside the lower pivot on the rear triangle. I have emailed Forbidden to get a confirmation on the suggested fix to sand off the clearcoat.

Honestly, my frame ended up shipping about 3 weeks late, and I blame sloppy/rushed QC letting this out the door. Other areas on the frame (Head tube, front triangle rear shock mount, etc.) have been finish machined to raw carbon after painting. I believe this area should have received the same treatment as it is a mating surface, but that is just my opinion having worked in manufacturing facilities.

As for other owners persistent issues with Idler pulleys and bearings, I intend on making some modifications to that assembly to see if I can get it to run smoother longer. Obviously I understand these things are growing pains with a completely new frame design from a young company.

I still love the bike and swear by it whenever questioned on the trails. (Which I'm sure many of you can relate to) I even managed to convince my LBS to pick up Forbidden after I got them to build up this frame instead of the Yeti they were shoving down my throat.

Here's my beauty all built up:


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> After 9 pages, from outta nowhere someone saw fit to banish this thread into the bowels of sub-forum hell. Awesome.


Damn, "Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers". Ouch.

EDIT: We should ask to swap places with Foes or something...


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

XZNathan said:


> So after pulling the suspension apart, this is what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I found The same thing on my bike.
Anyone else think if there were a rubber oring or seal then these parts would create a water tight seal? Would probably also make some issue as the parts like too move with the bike though.

On a side note, how is that coil shock and have you looked at a tractive tune for it?


----------



## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

That looks pretty similar to my issue, @XZNathan. I ended up making a 34 mm diameter part with a 15 mm diameter stub on it to keep it concentric with the bearing. I double-stickeyed an 'O' of 320 grit sandpaper to it, and sanded it. The stopping point for sanding (suggested by Forbidden folks) is when I could rotate the inner bearing race just by holding the dust cap there and rotating (I have a longer writeup if you're interested). Anyway, about 50 miles in, no noise and moves well still, with the suspension feeling noticeably smoother.

Another place where the QC seems off to me are the second set of dust covers on the other linkage axle to the frame (the ones inside the tunnel). I have gaps visible between those and the frame. So, they rotate great! but they aren't sealing too well, just keeping big stuff off. There, it seems like the dust cover recess in the frame is too shallow. 

These are the downsides of buying the v1 of a new type of item, from a new company trying to scale up. I wish that I didn't have the problems, but I get it. Their response has been really good (for me) so far.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Damn, "Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers". Ouch.
> 
> EDIT: We should ask to swap places with Foes or something...


Hahahaha. Or Ellsworth or Turner, both of which are pretty much shut down.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

@Alanc12: bummer that multiple colors are seeing this rubbing, makes it seem like it wasn't one bad painting batch.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I haven’t ordered anything for my daughter yet. Watching and considering these posts with great interest. 

As for the idler bearings and lower chain guide issues, I didn’t mean to sound overly negative. I am fine with replacing these once or even twice every season, if necessary. They are inexpensive - the whole idler, with bearings, is $39.99 CDN. Whatever. My bigger concern is making sure I have enough on hand if they ever become unavailable.

My small niggles with this bike are insignificant compared to the stoke it continues to bring. 

In the end, I just hope that Owen and his crew sufficiently enjoy what they are doing, such that this bike remains relevant and serviceable for a long time. The last thing I want is for him to pack it in, because his joy in creating these bikes got outweighed by all the corresponding hassle and headache.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

After a few months of ownership, my Druid has been shipped off to a new owner. In the end, the various/frequent maintenance niggles and the drivetrain drag (I know some don't notice it but I definitely did) kept detracting away from the riding experience. I was able to replace it with two bikes, one short travel lightweight the other very long travel bruiser. Not to take away from the Druid, it is an awesome bike. I've said it before and will say it again, if you're a one bike type of guy/gal and like riding a mix of stuff, the Druid is THE BEST bike I think out right now for this. Happy trails all!


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Has anyone run a Marzocchi CR coil on the druid yet?
> ive looked into having one avalanche tuned for the druid and my weight etc.
> Cost Almost puts it in the realm of push or ext, so wondering if anyone has just run one with out tunning.


Its the same as the old van. Not a good shock in of itself but a cheap shock to be tuned. IMHO Craig works magic. If possible get one of the shocks he handbuilds. So you can tune HSC i like less in chunk more in flow jumps. But the Marz will be lighter.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Cerberus75 said:


> Its the same as the old van. Not a good shock in of itself but a cheap shock to be tuned. IMHO Craig works magic. If possible get one of the shocks he handbuilds. So you can tune HSC i like less in chunk more in flow jumps. But the Marz will be lighter.


Would spend the money on the EXT, their gen2 shock rides pretty amazing.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Would spend the money on the EXT, their gen2 shock rides pretty amazing.


I'm fascinated by EXT but haven't ridden one yet. IF its tuned to the leverage ratio and your weight. Yes. IMHO the 11/6 is over priced.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

has anyone tried the Fox roller bearing-for-bushing replacement for the dpx2 , and did they notice a difference? 

My Druid already feels much better off the top than my old VPP, but now I'm getting greedy.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question for you Druid lovers...
> 
> It shouldn't matter but it kinda does.
> 
> ...


So I can't speak as to the Mr. Brownstone colour but I've been running the Ziggy Link since I built the frame up in mid August.

I came off a 27.5 bike with 160mm front and rear and so far the transition has been super easy. 
I've never owned a 29er before and typically in the past have preferred a bike on the smaller side. I'm 5'10 and was riding a medium Ventana Zeus. I opted for a large Druid as the geo numbers just seemed much closer to what I wanted and what I was already used to on the Zeus, especially considering what the Ziggy link would change. I had/have no interest in a 29 inch rear wheel - big selling point with the Druid.

All that said, there's a lot of change going on with the new bike. The Druid certainly feels like an upgrade to my 5-6 year old Ventana, as well I'd expect considering modern geometry and newer components, carbon frame versus alu. It really doesn't feel like a world of difference though which is probably the kind of rider I am - I'm not super fussy about bike setup but appreciate when it feels really good. The Druid feels good. The larger front wheel was the biggest and most noticeable difference when it came to riding and even that felt familiar after a couple of weeks.

I'm located in southern New Hampshire and so far have some decent miles in the White Mountains (North Conway), Kingdom Trails in Burke, Vermont and other closer trail systems. I spent a day at Highland park and plan on another day there and at Thunder Mountain in Charlemont, MA. So yeah, mostly riding it as a trail bike but some park riding too. I almost wish I'd tried the bike with a larger wheel in the back but without that point of reference, my only negative experience so far were are a ton of pedal strikes early on (170mm cranks, I've since altered my pedaling a little to accomodate) which again is more my lack of experience on a modern, lower frame than the Druid in particular. I've buzzed my butt on the rear tire a few times so am definitely appreciative of the smaller rear wheel. The fact that it feels like it corners as well/better/faster than my old frame also speaks well to the Ziggy link. I can't really think of much more to share regarding the link - I'd obviously have stronger opinions if I had experience on a regular 29'er but I at least can confirm Ziggy is easy to live with. It's still easy to climb with the smaller rear wheel - I'm constantly surprised at some of the tech climbs this bike gets up, just point and grind up. I don't get much shuttling in lately so I earn my turns for sure. Hope this helps?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> ...the 11/6 is over priced.


I got my last gen 11-6 for $850 USD when they "blew them out" a year ago. Still pricey and not the latest and greatest but I thought it was decent value at the time. Still do. I love it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

96go22v said:


> So I can't speak as to the Mr. Brownstone colour but I've been running the Ziggy Link since I built the frame up in mid August.
> 
> I came off a 27.5 bike with 160mm front and rear and so far the transition has been super easy.
> I've never owned a 29er before and typically in the past have preferred a bike on the smaller side. I'm 5'10 and was riding a medium Ventana Zeus. I opted for a large Druid as the geo numbers just seemed much closer to what I wanted and what I was already used to on the Zeus, especially considering what the Ziggy link would change. I had/have no interest in a 29 inch rear wheel - big selling point with the Druid.
> ...


Thanks. I am toying with grabbing a Ziggy Link but I wish I had a 27.5 wheel lying around. Another expense that's almost certainly going to be a big one once I go down the slippery slope and end up calling Dustin at We Are One.

Beautiful bike. Next level for sure.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I got my last gen 11-6 for $850 USD when they "blew them out" a year ago. Still pricey and not the latest and greatest but I thought it was decent value at the time. Still do. I love it.


I'd say its worth 850 honesty $1200 no. My Avalanche was $700, they're $800 now. With a larger piston and shimstack the HSB is second to none IMHO with a 3 year service interval. I'm not Shitting on Push thought they make great products. Much better than an offer the shelf product.


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## robnow (Apr 12, 2010)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks. I am toying with grabbing a Ziggy Link but I wish I had a 27.5 wheel lying around. Another expense that's almost certainly going to be a big one once I go down the slippery slope and end up calling Dustin at We Are One.
> 
> Beautiful bike. Next level for sure.


Listen to Dustin on the Downtime Podcast from this week and I don't think you'll have any doubt WeAreOne is the company to go with...plus who else is likely to build a mullet setup for you. Can't wait for their bike to come out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> I'd say its worth 850 honesty $1200 no. My Avalanche was $700, they're $800 now. With a larger piston and shimstack the HSB is second to none IMHO with a 3 year service interval. I'm not Shitting on Push thought they make great products. Much better than an offer the shelf product.


I had a crap experience with Craig. I was 100% prepared to go the Avalanche route on a former bike. Front and back. Despite that I am in Canada, which presented all sorts of issues.

Not to derail things but when I talked to him, he was angry, I was confused and in the end he said he didn't like the size of the shock bolts on my bike and that was the end of it. I think there should be a coaching or prep course for people before they make their first call to Craig.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

robnow said:


> Listen to Dustin on the Downtime Podcast from this week and I don't think you'll have any doubt WeAreOne is the company to go with...plus who else is likely to build a mullet setup for you. Can't wait for their bike to come out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed. You're preaching to the converted. I have 2 wheel sets already from him, about to purchase a third and maybe now a 27.5.

Fun fact - my frame was Dustin's. It was the last large matte black from the initial run. He gave me his and took the gloss moss instead. Jordan at We Are One threw down on a matte black one at the same time.

Those were exciting days. I will never forget them.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

I’d push you to try the mullet just to hear your opinion on it, maybe your lbs has a loaner wheel you could try? I went with WAO union on hope front and rear for this build and I’ve been pretty stoked with them...I debated forever between the union and faction but in the end decided on a pretty burly build.On a separate note I have an extra ziggy link I’ll be selling, I ended up with two for reasons to long to explain. I know they’re out of stock on the forbidden site at the moment.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

96go22v said:


> I'd push you to try the mullet just to hear your opinion on it, maybe your lbs has a loaner wheel you could try? I went with WAO union on hope front and rear for this build and I've been pretty stoked with them...I debated forever between the union and faction but in the end decided on a pretty burly build.On a separate note I have an extra ziggy link I'll be selling, I ended up with two for reasons to long to explain. I know they're out of stock on the forbidden site at the moment.


Hmmm...PM me about the Ziggy Link if you wish. I have access to a new one I may pick up before I head out for today's ride (and then Fernie for another week of joy). Just want to compare pricing. Thanks.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I had a crap experience with Craig. I was 100% prepared to go the Avalanche route on a former bike. Front and back. Despite that I am in Canada, which presented all sorts of issues.
> 
> Not to derail things but when I talked to him, he was angry, I was confused and in the end he said he didn't like the size of the shock bolts on my bike and that was the end of it. I think there should be a coaching or prep course for people before they make their first call to Craig.


I can totally see how he can throw people off. I'm a numbers guy, and used to race autocross and costume valve my shocks (I didn't run anti sway bars either) so we can talk back and forth. If I have 30min to an hour to spare for him to answer one question lol. He should have a costume service rep to handle most of his customers and website.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

It seems like every new Druid owner goes through some stages of Feels about the lower guide and the small amount drag from it. I don't notice it in my rides in terms of times or fatigue (if anything, those are improved), but on the stand one can't help but notice, and wonder... 

One question I had was, has anyone tried the "lower" setting for the guide mount, and did they notice any less drag? I know Forbidden wants it in the upper two of the 3 holes, for both chain wrap and suspension performance (according to their FAQ).


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hbar said:


> It seems like every new Druid owner goes through some stages of Feels about the lower guide and the small amount drag from it. I don't notice it in my rides in terms of times or fatigue (if anything, those are improved), but on the stand one can't help but notice, and wonder...
> 
> One question I had was, has anyone tried the "lower" setting for the guide mount, and did they notice any less drag? I know Forbidden wants it in the upper two of the 3 holes, for both chain wrap and suspension performance (according to their FAQ).


I ran it with no chain guide for a week. Zero issues. I replaced the chain guide the way Forbidden recommends but would not think twice about running it at a lower tension. Or not at all.

I don't notice any material drag with it, so I run it as recommended. Plus it looks bad ass 

The only thing I don't like about it is that it sounds like an e-bike.


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## parkerross (Sep 28, 2020)

Hey long time lurker. Im looking to buy a ziggy link if anyone has one they want to sell me one.
I got an XL brownstone XT coming this week I have big plans for. Mezzer fork, axs shifting and carbon wheelset. Has anyone played with anglesets on the druid I have a 2 degree on my wrecker.


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The only thing I don't like about it is that it sounds like an e-bike.


Can anyone post a video of the drivetrain noise and show any drag?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

parkerross said:


> Hey long time lurker. Im looking to buy a ziggy link if anyone has one they want to sell me one.
> I got an XL brownstone XT coming this week I have big plans for. Mezzer fork, axs shifting and carbon wheelset. Has anyone played with anglesets on the druid I have a 2 degree on my wrecker.


*PM 96go22v above for the Ziggy Link.

Sorry about the font. I'm on my phone, which I fear has been officially commandeered by Siri, who is really a Russian bot biatch. Plus this site is a steaming pile, tech-wise.

Congrats, good luck, and please keep us posted on your build and riding impressions. *


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

blinkie14 said:


> Can anyone post a video of the drivetrain noise and show any drag?


The downside of the weight of my bear spray in my bottle cage has a MUCH greater impact on riding efficiency than any driveline drag. I have my lower chain guide positioned per Forbidden and it's the least of my worries. I truly have no idea what people are referring to when they say they notice driveline drag. I make these comments after running my bike with no lower chain guide for 5 rides over a week period.

Like I say, the only downside is that my bike kinda sounds like it's motor assisted when I pedal.

But don't let me stand in anyone's way. Let the driveline drag discussions continue


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The downside of the weight of my bear spray in my bottle cage has a MUCH greater impact on riding efficiency than any driveline drag. I have my lower chain guide positioned per Forbidden and it's the least of my worries. I truly have no idea what people are referring to when they say they notice driveline drag. I make these comments after running my bike with no lower chain guide for 5 rides over a week period.
> 
> Like I say, the only downside is that my bike kinda sounds like it's motor assisted when I pedal.
> 
> But don't let me stand in anyone's way. Let the driveline drag discussions continue


I generally agree re: drivetrain drag while in use. As for noise, so far it makes less than my old 2x10 gearing when it's relatively clean.  Overall it's a quiet bike.


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## parkerross (Sep 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> *PM 96go22v above for the Ziggy Link.
> 
> Sorry about the font. I'm on my phone, which I fear has been officially commandeered by Siri, who is really a Russian bot biatch. Plus this site is a steaming pile, tech-wise.
> 
> Congrats, good luck, and please keep us posted on your build and riding impressions. *


Yes thanks I did and I bought it. I'll post photos and ride impressions when I get it dialed sometime next week.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> I generally agree re: drivetrain drag while in use. As for noise, so far it makes less than my old 2x10 gearing when it's relatively clean.  Overall it's a quiet bike.


Re: Drivetrain drag - I only notice it on the bike stand. If I compare it on the stand next to my 2016 Kona Process, it feels significant. I've tested it on and off the chain guide and it only makes a minor difference. The drag sensation is associated with the idler. It's understandable why some might see this as a major issue. However, I don't ever think about it on the trail (and I climb a lot) and I'd be very upset if I felt I was at a disadvantage. Instead, I'm regularly going faster on the Druid uphill then I did with my Kona.

Re: Drivetrain sound - Only notice it if I don't lube my chain for a couple rides. I love quiet bikes and this noise is not an issue.

Re: Idler pully wear a tear - I've 400km on the Druid and I see wear, but not to the point where I think it needs replaced (see pics). Chain is still in great shape. I have very little play in the idler bearing but did feel a little notch when rotating the bearing.

Unrelated to drivetrain...Under hard braking I find the rear suspension gets very firm and I've now dented my rim a couple times. I don't notice this firmness unless I'm braking. Anyone else finding this? I'm wondering if I should try reducing the volume spacer to see if I can sit lower in the travel (ie. less anti-rise)

Still loving every opportunity I have to ride and work on this bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Re: Drivetrain drag - I only notice it on the bike stand. If I compare it on the stand next to my 2016 Kona Process, it feels significant. I've tested it on and off the chain guide and it only makes a minor difference. The drag sensation is associated with the idler. It's understandable why some might see this as a major issue. However, I don't ever think about it on the trail (and I climb a lot) and I'd be very upset if I felt I was at a disadvantage. Instead, I'm regularly going faster on the Druid uphill then I did with my Kona.
> 
> Re: Drivetrain sound - Only notice it if I don't lube my chain for a couple rides. I love quiet bikes and this noise is not an issue.
> 
> ...


I may very well be wrong on this but my sense is that not only does the rear lock to some degree, but it may even squat somewhat, under hard braking. I have had bikes like this in the past. They have always been my favorite bikes for steep technical drops. The Druid is my all time favorite.

I try to brake strategically on this bike, and let it go a lot more. I know - easier said than done. But I think this is part of the reason I seem to rip a little faster on this bike, than on past bikes.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Cool story about vintage cars and the Druid on NSMB: https://nsmb.com/articles/1967-mgb-gt--forbidden-bikes-druid-connection/


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Cool story about vintage cars and the Druid on NSMB: https://nsmb.com/articles/1967-mgb-gt--forbidden-bikes-druid-connection/


His long term review of the Druid was a big factor for me (along with this thread) in deciding to get one. I took his advice in that review and preemptively re-greased the XT clutch mech. It wasn't as dire as he described his was, but it also didn't have as much lube in it as I would expect for a brand new derailer. Plus, I'd never done it before, so that's always fun.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

96go22v said:


> I'd push you to try the mullet just to hear your opinion on it, maybe your lbs has a loaner wheel you could try? I went with WAO union on hope front and rear for this build and I've been pretty stoked with them...I debated forever between the union and faction but in the end decided on a pretty burly build.On a separate note I have an extra ziggy link I'll be selling, I ended up with two for reasons to long to explain. I know they're out of stock on the forbidden site at the moment.


how do you rate that wheelset? ive got some on reserve for nbd


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

onawave said:


> how do you rate that wheelset? ive got some on reserve for nbd


So far I have zero regrets. Love the noise or hate it, I've always loved hope products and am enjoying the pro4's - my second wheelset on those hubs.

As far as the rims go I'd parrot the review on Pinkbike; not the heaviest or lightest, not the softest or stiffest, they're goldilocks wheels so far. They're not something I think about while riding. There were no visible defects and I have a great warranty and track record from a pretty cool company for piece of mind in addition. I was riding chinese carbon rims that lasted a solid two seasons until the rear looked like it was coming close to failure. I definitely abused that wheelset and it was definitely stiff but too much so. The WAO unions are far more comfortable - they claim a lower radial stiffness than previous rims. I haven't ridden super compliant carbon rims before but I can't imagine needing more. 
I did consider a faction for the front but in the end I decided on a slight weight gain along with hopefully a slightly stronger, wider rim. I'm riding them pretty hard, the granite state sure isn't short on rock gardens. Only a couple months in but so far I'd 10/10 order the same set again. Except with silver nipples.

On a related note I ordered the wheels through the Fanatik wheel builder and that process was pretty cool. The built wheels looked great, are still true/tight and I really couldn't find any flaws, I certainly looked.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

Being from a country where Autumn isn't nearly as spectacular, the riding is pretty sweet right now. No point to this post, I just liked the picture.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

96go22v said:


> Being from a country where Autumn isn't nearly as spectacular, the riding is pretty sweet right now. No point to this post, I just liked the picture.


Nice!

Drove to Fernie today and the colours blew my mind.

This is a totally **** pic from a quick evening blast earlier tonight but yeah, favorite time of year by far. Cool temps. In peak shape. And incredible colours.










I was inundated tonight by serious riders on the trail losing their **** when they saw the Druid. It seems to be one of the absolute top bikes of choice in my neck of the wood right now.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

Very cool, I love the work they put into the signs over there. I’ve never ridden the PNW, it always looks epic...some day!

I get asked if I’m riding an e-bike most often but the occasional rider recognizes the Druid. Other riders are relatively rare where and when I ride though which has its pros and cons.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

PNW pic









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Others have mentioned this, but while I was cleaning my bike last night, I couldn't help but be impressed with the parts spec on the complete builds from Forbidden. The only things I changed were grips (hand issues) and seat (SDG has odd seams exactly where I apparently frequently contact the saddle). I'll probably put in 36T star ratchets in the 350 hubs when I service them. 

Everything else is great--I almost wished I could down spec a few things to SLX/Deore (cranks, brakes) to save a few bucks, but the price was already really, really good. Nice job, Forbidden.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

*Fork travel*

Forbidden have updated the warrenty on the druid. Fork length must not be over 571 axle to crown. Fox 36 and marzocchi at 160 is less than 570


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Alanc12 said:


> Forbidden have updated the warrenty on the druid. Fork length must not be over 571 axle to crown. Fox 36 and marzocchi at 160 is less than 570


It's a little confusing on their website. Product Liability section and Tech Specs say max axle to crown of 557.1mm while the assembly manual states 571mm at 150mm or less. Also, the FAQ says 150mm max. In the end I think it's pretty clear that if you are going for above 150mm and care about warranty, best to ask them directly!


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kootenay rider said:


> It's a little confusing on their website. Product Liability section and Tech Specs say max axle to crown of 557.1mm while the assembly manual states 571mm at 150mm or less. Also, the FAQ says 150mm max. In the end I think it's pretty clear that if you are going for above 150mm and care about warranty, best to ask them directly!


See attached screen shot


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

This update leads me to believe that they had at least one rider who seriously overforked their Druid. 


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> It's a little confusing on their website. Product Liability section and Tech Specs say max axle to crown of 557.1mm while the assembly manual states 571mm at 150mm or less. Also, the FAQ says 150mm max. In the end I think it's pretty clear that if you are going for above 150mm and care about warranty, best to ask them directly!


How do direct to consumer brands warranty frames? How would they ever know if your fork was 160mm?

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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

jpec29 said:


> How do direct to consumer brands warranty frames? How would they ever know if your fork was 160mm?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Good question. I would think frame failures due to 'over forking' would show very specific characteristics (think headtube area) vs failures due to manufacture defects (ie warrantable failures). They do test frames for failures and to help come up with the axle to crown rule - must have a reason to give a specific limit.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Verboten. Translation...Forbidden.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> Good question. I would think frame failures due to 'over forking' would show very specific characteristics (think headtube area) vs failures due to manufacture defects (ie warrantable failures). They do test frames for failures and to help come up with the axle to crown rule - must have a reason to give a specific limit.


Huck to flat has more stress on the head tube area the slacker the head tube. I wonder what their position is on anglesets.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Cerberus75 said:


> Huck to flat has more stress on the head tube area the slacker the head tube. I wonder what their position is on anglesets.


Me too because I'm running one... but I'm also not the original frame owner so I don't have a warranty already.

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Me too because I'm running one... but I'm also not the original frame owner so I don't have a warranty already.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In theory, If you're running a 160mm fork you will have about 65degree head tube angle, add a ziggy you should be looking 64.5ish.
Im running a 160mm fork now and measuring 64degree head tube angle and I've still got a ziggy to put on.

What's your head tube angle sitting at


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

On my current bike not a Druid. I'm 20mm over the warranty with an agleset. I dont huck to flat though and don't have any issues.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Alanc12 said:


> In theory, If you're running a 160mm fork you will have about 65degree head tube angle, add a ziggy you should be looking 64.5ish.
> Im running a 160mm fork now and measuring 64degree head tube angle and I've still got a ziggy to put on.
> 
> What's your head tube angle sitting at


Not sure honestly. I'm running a 2021 Fox 36 150mm fork with a 1* angleset headset I believe? Headset came with the frame when I bought it used and I just went with it on my build.

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

I modified a 2021 fox 40 fender and this is what i got.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Finally got my build dialed. 
Forbidden Druid mr. brownstone xl 
Fox 38 performance elite 
bomber cr with a push 325 coil(I'm going to get it custom tuned by avalanche)
hays dominion A4 brakes Front/Rear
galfer 223 front rotor 
galfer 203 rear rotor
nobl tr37 wheels with onyx vesper hubs 
maxxis assegai dd maxgrip in the front 
maxxis dissector exo+ maxterra with cushcore XC in the rear
xtr 12 spd cassette 
Slx derailleur 
Xt cranks 
absolute black oval 34t chainring 
xtr chain 
xt shifter 
zz designz one piece 35mm stem 
oneup bar 
bikeyoke revive 2.0 213mm dropper
wolftooth dropper remote 
sdg bell air carbon saddle 
saint clip less pedals


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Finally got my Druid built.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

96go22v said:


> I'd push you to try the mullet just to hear your opinion on it, maybe your lbs has a loaner wheel you could try? I went with WAO union on hope front and rear for this build and I've been pretty stoked with them...I debated forever between the union and faction but in the end decided on a pretty burly build.On a separate note I have an extra ziggy link I'll be selling, I ended up with two for reasons to long to explain. I know they're out of stock on the forbidden site at the moment.


Large frame, 175mm crank, 150 36, 11-6 (not that that is relevant). Any comments on pedal strikes on the mullet vs non-mullet build? I'm thinking this may be an issue with a 175mm crank.

If it's not, then it's full steam ahead for me.

Thanks.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Large frame, 175mm crank, 150 36, 11-6 (not that that is relevant). Any comments on pedal strikes on the mullet vs non-mullet build? I'm thinking this may be an issue with a 175mm crank.
> 
> If it's not, then it's full steam ahead for me.
> 
> Thanks.


I have a large frame, same suspension and 170 mm cranks. I can't imagine 5 mm difference would be that problematic but then I'm not investing in a new wheel. I rarely get pedal strikes now that I've adapted, but they still happen occasionally. With the link installed your BB will be 6 mm lower and head angle .5 degree slacker. Do you get pedal strikes now? 6 mm isn't a ton but if you get them now it would probably be exacerbated with the link installed.

I never rode the bike as a straight 29'er so no idea how much the Ziggy link changed things. This bike was also the first "modern" geometry - slacker and lower - that I've owned so there was a learning curve involved that would have played a part there too.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Finally got my Druid built.


Nice build 

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

So after 7 months on this bike, I have finally gotten things dialed!

I originally just wasn't getting along with the bike a lot of the time. 
After switching to coil in the back, it made things really come alive. The bike was able to take all of the high speed chatter and hits like I was originally hoping.

After installing the coil I found my fork (36 grip2) wasn't able to keep up. 
So a fork swap the other day to a mezzer, and I am finally in love with this bike.

Unreal! 
It's smashing pr's left and right.


































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## CCPHammer (May 12, 2007)

Kmag76, maybe I missed it but how would you compare this bike to the Evils you've ridden?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Kmag76 said:


> So after 7 months on this bike, I have finally gotten things dialed!
> 
> I originally just wasn't getting along with the bike a lot of the time.
> After switching to coil in the back, it made things really come alive. The bike was able to take all of the high speed chatter and hits like I was originally hoping.
> ...


That's a sweet spec'd ride you have there. I'm very curious about that Mezzer and that EXT. Awesome.

I'm using the 2021 F36 w/Secus and a PUSH 11/6 with similar balanced success. Easily crushing PRs and the bikes really opened up for me. So much fun. Truly amazing ride now.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I will add to the chat by saying that my 11-6 and Fox 36 GRIP2 with a Vorsprung Luftkappe do not disappoint. Similar results as above. No urge to fiddle with anything there.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

CCPHammer said:


> Kmag76, maybe I missed it but how would you compare this bike to the Evils you've ridden?


I would say this bike is almost a cross of a following/offering. They, so fit/ride similar, but the Druid is better in the gnar.

I never really got along with the offering, even though I had it set up with an 11/6 ( I might have been missing a better performing fork on that bike as well)

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Kmag76 said:


> I would say this bike is almost a cross of a following/offering. They, so fit/ride similar, but the Druid is better in the gnar.
> 
> I never really got along with the offering, even though I had it set up with an 11/6 ( I might have been missing a better performing fork on that bike as well)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My previous ride was a Following. Agree with your sentiments. Evil was a bit poppier but less planted of course. After hemming and hawing over new rides, I almost considered an Offering, but then the Druid XT came right when I was ready to make a purchase. No looking back.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Coincidentally, the local Forbidden dealer just picked up Evil as well. Nice 2 brand niche line up.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Energ8t said:


> That's a sweet spec'd ride you have there. I'm very curious about that Mezzer and that EXT. Awesome.
> 
> I'm using the 2021 F36 w/Secus and a PUSH 11/6 with similar balanced success. Easily crushing PRs and the bikes really opened up for me. So much fun. Truly amazing ride now.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I was very curious about a 36/secus or runt combo. 
It sounds like it works well 

I have a EXT era inbound right now, it's been on order what seems like forever. 
I came across this mezzer in the mean time with intention of moving it to another bike... but almost don't want to mess with a good thing I have going on right now.

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Coincidentally, the local Forbidden dealer just picked up Evil as well. Nice 2 brand niche line up.


Yes, Forsure! Those are great brand to have on board. 
I have owned a few of them and they are great bikes! 
I believe the western rep is from Kelowna and travels around for demo days. 
If this COVID thing ever comes to an end, and he comes to your neck of the woods, you should throw a leg over one


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

thanks the 38 feels amazing. how does the mezzer feel


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Nice build
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thanks, the 38 is feeling amazing and i cant wait to get my shock custom tuned.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

Kmag76 said:


> I would say this bike is almost a cross of a following/offering. They, so fit/ride similar, but the Druid is better in the gnar.
> 
> I never really got along with the offering, even though I had it set up with an 11/6 ( I might have been missing a better performing fork on that bike as well)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The high pivot is a much better platform than a single pivot Following/Offering especially if you ride a lot of rocky tech. Single pivots have a tendency to get hung up on ledges and rocky tech. Also the Following/Offering have a fair amount of brake jack which causes the rearend to get light losing traction when braking through chunk. The Druid has a more rearward axle path that allows the rear wheel to get out of the way through the chunk and the high pivot has more anti rise which helps to keep the rearend planted.
Just sold my Following to replace it with a Revel Rascal. I really like the Druid and considered it but I don't think it would be the right bike for where I ride. Waiting patiently for my Rascal to get here.


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> thanks, the 38 is feeling amazing and i cant wait to get my shock custom tuned.


Hi,
May I know if you are using the Fox 38 at 160mm? The rear still at 130mm?

Thanks.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Rngspnr said:


> The high pivot is a much better platform than a single pivot Following/Offering especially if you ride a lot of rocky tech. Single pivots have a tendency to get hung up on ledges and rocky tech. Also the Following/Offering have a fair amount of brake jack which causes the rearend to get light losing traction when braking through chunk. The Druid has a more rearward axle path that allows the rear wheel to get out of the way through the chunk and the high pivot has more anti rise which helps to keep the rearend planted.
> Just sold my Following to replace it with a Revel Rascal. I really like the Druid and considered it but I don't think it would be the right bike for where I ride. Waiting patiently for my Rascal to get here.


I see that the Rascal is 140/130.

I never cease to be amazed by the versatility of the Druid. Whether it's semi-casual riding with my daughter, or smashing **** with my buddies, I never feel like I am on the wrong bike, or wish I was on a different bike, regardless of the terrain.

What kind of terrain do you ride, and why do you feel the Rascal is better suited for it?

Thanks for chiming in here, and congrats on your new bike purchase!


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

revver said:


> Hi,
> May I know if you are using the Fox 38 at 160mm? The rear still at 130mm?
> 
> Thanks.


It's 150 they make a stock air shaft for 150


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

I know this is a shot in the dark but does anyone have a ziggy link they are willing to part ways with? Its been out of stock for a while. I want to try it out.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

Anyone else having issues with rocks gouging in between the seatstay and seattube? Super bummed out seeing as I have maybe 10 rides on this amazing bike.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Outlawed said:


> Anyone else having issues with rocks gouging in between the seatstay and seattube? Super bummed out seeing as I have maybe 10 rides on this amazing bike.


You need to make the rear fender longer or add moto-foam. I posted previously about making the fender longer. Both seem to help

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Outlawed said:


> Anyone else having issues with rocks gouging in between the seatstay and seattube? Super bummed out seeing as I have maybe 10 rides on this amazing bike.


As mentioned, moto foam is a cheap easy solution.

See posts 1013 to 1029 above.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I see that the Rascal is 140/130.
> 
> I never cease to be amazed by the versatility of the Druid. Whether it's semi-casual riding with my daughter, or smashing **** with my buddies, I never feel like I am on the wrong bike, or wish I was on a different bike, regardless of the terrain.
> 
> ...


Riding in central Texas. Not much DH/flow type trails. Mostly loose limestone, rock ledges and lots of pedaling. Something that is an efficient climber and can eat up chatter is what I was looking for. Coming off of an Evil Following V1 and before that a RIP9 aluminum. The Following was really nice and plush but suffered getting hung on ledges and light back end under braking. Was able to clear most features where I ride on the RIP9 but struggled a bit on the Following with same features. It's all the pedaling that's needed here that kept me from going with the Druid especially after some of the feed back from owners about the idler wear issues. You can ask ATXZJ about centex trails.


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Rngspnr said:


> Riding in central Texas. Not much DH/flow type trails. Mostly loose limestone, rock ledges and lots of pedaling. Something that is an efficient climber and can eat up chatter is what I was looking for. Coming off of an Evil Following V1 and before that a RIP9 aluminum. The Following was really nice and plush but suffered getting hung on ledges and light back end under braking. Was able to clear most features where I ride on the RIP9 but struggled a bit on the Following with same features. It's all the pedaling that's needed here that kept me from going with the Druid especially after some of the feed back from owners about the idler wear issues. You can ask ATXZJ about centex trails.


I used to live in DFW area, so I've ridden probably everything you do. I would still recommended the druid except I'd build it up completely different than how I have mine now. I'm in SoCal now. I would build it more on the trail side 140mm fork/pike not the enduro builds and as light as possible because this bike is not light. The idler seems to be an issue if you don't have it setup right and if you don't keep the chain clean and lubed. I'm on my 2nd idler and I put a little over 1000miles on the first one.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Axel path is really important for not getting hung up. There are a lot of similarly to forbidden High pivot and CFB. Both have a large lower link. CBF has less rearward path but both travel back and up for a lot of the travel. Single pivot travels up and towards the center of the bike. This drives the rear tire into objects vs up them.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> You should hit up the Husky Road / Prairie Mountain area. The dirt is PRIMO. We rode Loamzilla last night, and it was an absolute delight.


Finally hit Loamzilla yesterday after another week in Fernie. The Druid fearlessly clawed it's way up Husky Road, and then absolutely devoured Loamzilla. Happy to see that there is now a ride around option to avoid that rock roll, which was sketch AF for me last year.

I'm going to spend the rest of the season at Husky/Moose, hopefully every second day until the snow flies (West Bragg and Canmore every other day with my daughter).

For the past month, I have barely done a ride where the Druid did not result in a gathering of riders and a Q&A session. Fernie was outrageous. I pulled in Gear Hub one day with the Druid in the back of my truck and 2 dudes who worked there lost their **** when they spotted it. Same thing happened on the trail every single ride.

Up until recently, very few made a comment about it. Now all of sudden, everyone I see is asking about it. And they all recognize it and are familiar with it because of PB write ups.

Maybe this is happening all of a sudden because I no longer have resting ***** face now that fall is here and I am in my absolute glory.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I also had the "crunch zone" problem and I fixed it with an extension to the existing fender.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Finally hit Loamzilla yesterday after another week in Fernie. The Druid fearlessly clawed it's way up Husky Road, and then absolutely devoured Loamzilla. Happy to see that there is now a ride around option to avoid that rock roll, which was sketch AF for me last year.
> 
> I'm going to spend the rest of the season at Husky/Moose, hopefully every second day until the snow flies (West Bragg and Canmore every other day with my daughter).
> 
> ...


When I ride on the north shore I get a lot of "nice bike!" comments from the high school kids. Forbidden have a really great thing going. I love my druid and I hope they do well.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> I also had the "crunch zone" problem and I fixed it with an extension to the existing fender.


The problem with the fender fix is that it's not foolproof. The moto foam is quick, easy, cheap and foolproof, and it looks good too.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The problem with the fender fix is that it's not foolproof. The moto foam is quick, easy, cheap and foolproof, and it looks good too.


That does look good. Are you concerned about rubbing away the paint?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> That does look good. Are you concerned about rubbing away the paint?


It's never crossed my mind, and I am VERY picky about stuff like that. It's a curse actually. I would never use an "enduro strap" for example.

I don't see any rubbing going on with the shock compressed but then again, I have the bike fully Ride Wrapped so I don't think it would matter even if there was.

I don't think rubbing is a concern but maybe me it is. Bear in mind that the moto foam is feather light and very soft. So no - I don't think rubbing is a concern, even if the frame is not Ride Wrapped.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Is the Moto foam held in place by friction only? Any double sided tape or similar?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

incubus said:


> Is the Moto foam held in place by friction only? Any double sided tape or similar?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine uses double sided tape. Others here may have done it differently.

Mine has been in place since mid June. Since then my bike has been to a dozen or so different regions in Alberta and BC and has had a gazillion miles put on it. Not so much as a hiccup. The moto foam has performed 10/10.

PS - this was an idea first suggested to me by the late great Travis Bickle (aka Legbacon) who started this thread and subsequently met his untimely death while enjoying what he loved most - blasting the Cumberland trails - birth place of the Druid. RIP Jerry.

Everyone at my LBS with a Druid runs theirs with moto foam.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Mine uses double sided tape. Others here may have done it differently.
> 
> Mine has been in place since mid June. Since then my bike has been to a dozen or so different regions in Alberta and BC and has had a gazillion miles put on it. Not so much as a hiccup. The moto foam has performed 10/10.
> 
> ...


I'm not a moto guy, so is 'moto foam' the stuff I see as being used between the engine and skid plate? It should have almost no resistance to squishing, I'd imagine, so it doesn't resist when the suspension compresses. Thanks for the info


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Finally hit Loamzilla yesterday after another week in Fernie. The Druid fearlessly clawed it's way up Husky Road, and then absolutely devoured Loamzilla. Happy to see that there is now a ride around option to avoid that rock roll, which was sketch AF for me last year.
> 
> I'm going to spend the rest of the season at Husky/Moose, hopefully every second day until the snow flies (West Bragg and Canmore every other day with my daughter).
> 
> ...


The "OMFGWTF WHAT BIKE IS THAT!!shift1!!!" seems to come in waves. I try not to ride like a chump while people are watching - don't want the bike to get a bad rap for my ineptitude.

That Loamzilla rock roll seems to be getting ground down over time. That left-hand catch berm gets a little smaller every time I ride that trail.


----------



## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

I used a foam like this. Worked fine

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The problem with the fender fix is that it's not foolproof. The moto foam is quick, easy, cheap and foolproof, and it looks good too.


I have a feeling you may scratch your frame and if any dirt gets in there it will blow through the paint. If your looking to improve the fender i would recommend making a bracket and modifying a 2021 fox 40 fender. Like this.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The problem with the fender fix is that it's not foolproof. The moto foam is quick, easy, cheap and foolproof, and it looks good too.


Are you sure that wont scratch your paint ?. It seams like if any dirt got into there it would blow through your paint. I would recommend improving the fender like i did.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Are you sure that wont scratch your paint ?. It seams like if any dirt got into there it would blow through your paint. I would recommend improving the fender like i did.


This looks great! I presume you drilled two holes and cut the vertical flap away to fit the frame?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I have a feeling you may scratch your frame and if any dirt gets in there it will blow through the paint. If your looking to improve the fender i would recommend making a bracket and modifying a 2021 fox 40 fender. Like this.


Seems to me that the fender option is iffy. While it no doubt helps to minimize the risk of rocks getting in there, it does not eliminate the risk altogether like the moto foam does.

The moto foam is feather light. Super soft. Airy. Very spongy. I can't imagine how it would ever damage the frame from rubbing.

I may be popping by the LBS this week. If I do I will ask if any of them have suffered rubbing/damage from the moto foam. I will also take the foam out of mine and do a careful inspection. Bear in mind though that my frame is almost 100% Ride Wrapped.

I will report back.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Definitely not if you're into looks but it's cheap and works!


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Does anyone run a Cane Creek Inline Air on their Druid? I'm in the process of building one and have a CC I'm pulling from another bike... it seems like a tight fit, but there appears to be enough clearance.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kootenay rider said:


> View attachment 1368943
> View attachment 1368945
> Definitely not if you're into looks but it's cheap and works!


I'll one up that.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> This looks great! I presume you drilled two holes and cut the vertical flap away to fit the frame?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I used a fox 40 fender and a custom bracket that i made.

Here's some more photos.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> I'll one up that.


Basically the same idea, I chose to tie it off at the front of the seattube


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Would you guys like larger rear fenders and maybe a intergraded rock guard? This is something i can make some prototypes for testing.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> Would you guys like larger rear fenders and maybe a intergraded rock guard? This is something i can make some prototypes for testing.


Are you designing one with cad?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> Would you guys like larger rear fenders and maybe a intergraded rock guard? This is something i can make some prototypes for testing.


I would love to test some out. I ride in the mud a lot so i could put it through the ringer.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Yeah it would be done in fusion360 3d printed. If there is a market for it i would have them mass produced probably a HP jet fusion.



Anyone in the NorCal (Folsom) area have a stock rear fender i could use for dimensions?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> Yeah it would be done in fusion360 3d printed. If there is a market for it i would have them mass produced probably a HP jet fusion.


If you make a new downtube protector for the stash spot it would be awesome too build some loops into the inside of it to us for better storage.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> If you make a new downtube protector for the stash spot it would be awesome too build some loops into the inside of it to us for better storage.


I could definitely do that! I would need some stock parts to use to make a model in fusion. Post some pictures of what you are looking for. If you want PM me.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> I could definitely do that! I would need some stock parts to use to make a model in fusion. Post some pictures of what you are looking for. If you want PM me.


something simple like this. 1.5 inches apart.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> If you make a new downtube protector for the stash spot it would be awesome too build some loops into the inside of it to us for better storage.


What do you. Mean by loops inside it? I'm on a medium, if I had loops inside it, I would be hard pressed to store what I have. Now making it a quick release compartment makes more sence than having screws. But it would have to be very secure. There's also no reason why it couldn't Be a little bulged out to allow extra storage space


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> What do you. Mean by loops inside it? I'm on a medium, if I had loops inside it, I would be hard pressed to store what I have. Now making it a quick release compartment makes more sence than having screws. But it would have to be very secure. There's also no reason why it couldn't Be a little bulged out to allow extra storage space


What you said makes a lot of sense. I was thinking small loops so that you could secure stuff with zip ties.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> What you said makes a lot of sense. I was thinking small loops so that you could secure stuff with zip ties.


You could also go that path but insted of loops have elastic bands?


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I could make some easy bonded (glue) velcro mounts for the stock cover.

something like this


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## parkerross (Sep 28, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> So after 7 months on this bike, I have finally gotten things dialed!
> 
> I originally just wasn't getting along with the bike a lot of the time.
> After switching to coil in the back, it made things really come alive. The bike was able to take all of the high speed chatter and hits like I was originally hoping.
> ...


What length are you running the mezzer. I'm putting my mezzer from my wreck on my druid but it currently set at 160 and 574 a2c so 3mm over forbiddens reccomendation.

Also whats your weight and what settings are you running on your mezzer?


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone try running a 150mm ZEB fork yet on their druid?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Anyone try running a 150mm ZEB fork yet on their druid?


no but i am running a 38.


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## parkerross (Sep 28, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> So after 7 months on this bike, I have finally gotten things dialed!
> 
> I originally just wasn't getting along with the bike a lot of the time.
> After switching to coil in the back, it made things really come alive. The bike was able to take all of the high speed chatter and hits like I was originally hoping.
> ...


What length are you running your Mezzer mine is currently set at 160? I have my Mezzer from my Wreckoning and am planning to switch it over to my new to me druid with my 11-6. What settings are you running? How big are you? I'm 220 lbs.

thanks in advance


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Darkstar187 said:


> Would you guys like larger rear fenders and maybe a intergraded rock guard? This is something i can make some prototypes for testing.


I would love to buy this.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Darkstar187 said:


> Would you guys like larger rear fenders and maybe a intergraded rock guard? This is something i can make some prototypes for testing.


Count me in on this and the quick release downtube protector along the lines suggested by Alanc12 (post #1803 - the multi-quote at this lame ass site has not worked for months for me). Darkstar187 - I'm down for both.

I am still trying to figure out what to use the bottle bosses for under the top tube. Seems like a wasted opportunity but I haven't come up with anything yet. The brand new Crank Brothers cigar shaped tire plug repair kit I saw recently on PB is a possibility but I don't know how it attaches to the bottle bosses (likely asymmetrically, off to one side or the other, like a pump, so probably a no-go).

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/the-crankbrothers-cigar-tool-fixes-punctures-in-style.html

The OneUp accessory plate attachment (or maybe it was WolfTooth) is too wide. My Forbidden dealer has them. We tried it but was a no-go.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Count me in on this and the quick release downtube protector along the lines suggested by Alanc12 (post #1803 - the multi-quote at this lame ass site has not worked for months for me). Darkstar187 - I'm down for both.
> 
> I am still trying to figure out what to use the bottle bosses for under the top tube. Seems like a wasted opportunity but I haven't come up with anything yet. The brand new Crank Brothers cigar shaped tire plug repair kit I saw recently on PB is a possibility but I don't know how it attaches to the bottle bosses (likely asymmetrically, off to one side or the other, like a pump, so probably a no-go).
> 
> https://m.pinkbike.com/news/the-crankbrothers-cigar-tool-fixes-punctures-in-style.html


Yes I agree. I've been thinking a direct mount caddy for a bear spray. So you can keep bottle Mount for water. I know yould appreciate that


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Alanc12 said:


> Yes I agree. I've been thinking a direct mount caddy for a bear spray. So you can keep bottle Mount for water. I know yould appreciate that


For sure I appreciate that! Thanks! The only thing that's not ideal about that is having that weight even higher up than where it currently is (the bear spray is not light). Probably insignificant though in the grand scheme of things.

I am currently carrying the bear spray in my bottle cage on the downtube every single ride (my pump and mini tool is attached there too).

I have been hydrating pre-ride and using my Bontrager Rapid hip pack to carry a Gatorade and my shell. I have been doing rides up to 3 hours like this (I hydrate after too). So far only one incident of post-ride hamstring cramps that took me to the floor for a couple of minutes until they passed.

With my tube, levers and other stuff in the downtube compartment, I feel like I am set up really well. Still though, those bottle bosses under the top tube go unused.

Please let me know if you come up with any ideas.


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## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

In the early 90's my brother and I made small sized Ringle bottle cages to hold chain oil in Phils Tenacious Oil bottles. Where we were riding it was always muddy and having oil to apply several times per ride helped out. Maybe that will trigger an idea for someone. I'm still using an original Ringle cage actually.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Alanc12 said:


> Yes I agree. I've been thinking a direct mount caddy for a bear spray. So you can keep bottle Mount for water. I know yould appreciate that


That's exactly what I do. Bear spray in a Bear Cozy. Nowhere near as heavy as a full water bottle, and I almost never take it out of the cage, so I'm not stressing the bosses.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> That's exactly what I do. Bear spray in a Bear Cozy. Nowhere near as heavy as a full water bottle, and I almost never take it out of the cage, so I'm not stressing the bosses.


Would you be good enough to post a pic?

A grim reminder of why I never bike without bear spray:

https://www.google.ca/amp/s/www.cbc.ca/amp/1.5754744

Also, as an unrelated side note, I finally rode Pistolero last night. I never saw a single rider. I was totally creeped out the entire time out there. Anyway, a bunch of people had recommended it. Not sure why. Am I missing something? Why would someone ride Pistolero over Loamzilla (apart from variety perhaps - but even then, I would prefer to ride Loamzilla twice)?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Would you be good enough to post a pic?
> 
> A grim reminder of why I never bike without bear spray:
> 
> ...


Here is the Bear Cozy. I just put it into a standard bottle cage mounted underneath the top tube.

Regarding Pistolero [link here for those who are wondering what we're talking about], people like it because it's not as steep as Loamzilla, and there's nothing overly technical about it. It's also new, and people love the new new thing. That said, the juice generally isn't worth the squeeze of the climb. If it had a few small optional jumps or drops it would get more traffic.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

*Soon to be Druid Owner*

Hey all,

Just placed an order for a Eggplant Druid in Large, expected to be here around the first week of November.

Had a lot of concerns with stepping down to a 150/130 bike from the larger bikes I am used to but after chatting in the Whistler line up with two test riders from Forbidden who were riding their newer longer travel bike they assured me that unless I am racing the new bike is probably not gonna be my thing. That helped me a lot to hear that and I am really excited for the bike.

I had one question regarding anglesets for the druid. I saw some talk earlier in this forum (after going through all 10 pages) of some owners running an angleset. Is this still a thing people are doing? Is there a specific headset that works for this? I can't seem to find any that are spec'd to work with the druid. I'd love to have a bit slacker of a headtube angle on mine.

Thanks for your help! Can't wait to get my bike.


----------



## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Just placed an order for a Eggplant Druid in Large, expected to be here around the first week of November.
> 
> ...


Not sure if that will void your warrenty. Best to ask the question. If your going to run a mullet then you will drop a half degree, you can also run 160.if.you ha e a fox 36, marzocchi. That will drop another half degree. 
I'm sitting around 64degrees and all I've done is put the fork at 160. Yet to install the ziggy link.
If your dead set on an angle adjust headset then works Components should have you sorted.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Here is the Bear Cozy. I just put it into a standard bottle cage mounted underneath the top tube.
> 
> Regarding Pistolero [link here for those who are wondering what we're talking about], people like it because it's not as steep as Loamzilla, and there's nothing overly technical about it. It's also new, and people love the new new thing. That said, the juice generally isn't worth the squeeze of the climb. If it had a few small optional jumps or drops it would get more traffic.


Thanks PR. I use the identical cozy. I thought that placing that under the top tube might contact the insides of my thighs. Maybe not though. I will have to check it out.

I am dialled into Husky/Moose at the moment. Riding daily and checking all the trails off one by one. Having an absolute blast atop the Druid. What a masterpiece. I fear though that my DHF/DHR2 combo could be better with one or two Ass-guys. There is some super loose steep **** in there at the moment.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Here is the Bear Cozy. I just put it into a standard bottle cage mounted underneath the top tube...


So I checked out relocating my bear spray to the bottle bosses under my toptube. I am almost certainly missing something here, but seems to me that the fatal flaw with this is that a bottle of G2 won't simultaneously fit in the cage on the down tube. So what am I left with? Answer: my bear spray at a higher centre of gravity than where it was on the downtube, and unused bottle bosses on the downtube (instead of the toptube). Seems to me that I'm better off keeping things as is (with by bear spray on the downtube) and using my Bontrager Rapid pack for a G2 (which I forget about entirely 30 seconds after it's on).










Unless I'm missing something, I'm back to where I was - still searching for a use for the bottle bosses under the top tube...


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So I checked out relocating my bear spray to the bottle bosses under my toptube. I am almost certainly missing something here, but seems to me that the fatal flaw with this is that a bottle of G2 won't simultaneously fit in the cage on the down tube. So what am I left with? Answer: my bear spray at a higher centre of gravity than where it was on the downtube, and unused bottle bosses on the downtube (instead of the toptube). Seems to me that I'm better off keeping things as is (with by bear spray on the downtube) and using my Bontrager Rapid pack for a G2 (which I forget about entirely 30 seconds after it's on).
> 
> Unless I'm missing something, I'm back to where I was - still searching for a use for the bottle bosses under the top tube...


I've been riding with hydration packs since the early '90s, so there's no issues with bottle cage placements for me - I have loads of unused space in the front triangle! I can't feel any difference in centre of gravity regardless of bear spray placement. It just doesn't weigh enough compared to the bike overall. Regarding hitting knees on the cage or top tube - I tried to do it on yesterday's ride, and I think it would only happen during a crash. The top tube is so low, it's a non-issue, at least for me.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> I've been riding with hydration packs since the early '90s, so there's no issues with bottle cage placements for me - I have loads of unused space in the front triangle! I can't feel any difference in centre of gravity regardless of bear spray placement. It just doesn't weigh enough compared to the bike overall. Regarding hitting knees on the cage or top tube - I tried to do it on yesterday's ride, and I think it would only happen during a crash. The top tube is so low, it's a non-issue, at least for me.


Are you using your downtube bosses for anything? My goal is to come up with a use for both sets. It's more of a fun challenge than anything else. My current packless setup is close to perfect (for me at least).

Re the hydration pack issue, it suffices to say that the less strapped to me, the happier I am.

If I could get my bear spray and a G2 secured to the bike using the two sets of bosses, I would be very happy. As it stands, the Bontrager Rapid pack is the next best thing, and a total win.

The brand new Crank Brothers cigar shaped tire repair kit attaches to the bottle bosses off to the side (like my pump). So no good for the top tube.

The search continues (possibly for a solution to a problem that does not exist - I just hate to see those top tube bosses unused).


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Naw, I don't really use the downtube bosses for anything except holding two 4mm bolts.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

If you're hell bent on using the top tube bosses without leg interference, here you go... https://uncrate.com/oliver-flask-cage/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Just placed an order for a Eggplant Druid in Large, expected to be here around the first week of November.
> 
> ...


Can you clarify some of these statements please? Like why wouldn't they recommend the bike unless you are racing?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> Can you clarify some of these statements please? Like why wouldn't they recommend the bike unless you are racing?


Obviously they wouldn't get too into the technical details, but they made it sound like it is a very race focused bike meant for downhill speed rather than long adventures or weekly rides. Both riders noted that they missed their Druids as they found it was more than enough bike for most everything. One thing a lot of people note (including them) is that the 130mm rear on the Druid feels like a bigger bike than it is. They stated this was amplified on the newer rigs in such a way that it felt like a 180mm+ rear bike. In the end I think i'll be happy with the druid as whatever they are calling the new one sounds like a monster of a bike. I guess time will tell once the reviews and details come out.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Obviously they wouldn't get too into the technical details, but they made it sound like it is a very race focused bike meant for downhill speed rather than long adventures or weekly rides. Both riders noted that they missed their Druids as they found it was more than enough bike for most everything. One thing a lot of people note (including them) is that the 130mm rear on the Druid feels like a bigger bike than it is. They stated this was amplified on the newer rigs in such a way that it felt like a 180mm+ rear bike. In the end I think i'll be happy with the druid as whatever they are calling the new one sounds like a monster of a bike. I guess time will tell once the reviews and details come out.


This is consistent with rumours I have heard from some insiders (who knows if they are true or not). FWIW, I was told that unless you primarily plan to ride park or shuttle, the new one will be a beast of a bike. Not necessarily in a good way.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is consistent with rumours I have heard from some insiders (who knows if they are true or not). FWIW, I was told that unless you primarily plan to ride park or shuttle, the new one will be a beast of a bike. Not necessarily in a good way.


Honestly I'm putting a 8.5x2.5 2021 dhx2 to effectively bumping the travel up to 151. I can also shim it down to 140.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

I've enjoyed running ziggy link, it's a shame the thanks need removed to swap between, otherwise, it would be pretty straightforward. The red link doesn't seem, to match the mint scheme. It is kind of hidden back there, I sort of wish if was anodized black.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

For anybody who has purchased an SLX bike, have you experienced any issues with the SLX hubs?

The freehub on mine turns freely in both directions. This with zero miles on it. 

I reached out to forbidden yesterday when I noticed the issue but understandably haven’t heard back yet. Not trying to make a stink here, just trying to gauge if this is a one-off issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

incubus said:


> For anybody who has purchased an SLX bike, have you experienced any issues with the SLX hubs?
> 
> The freehub on mine turns freely in both directions. This with zero miles on it.
> 
> ...


It sounds like your completely missing Paul's. Forbidden will probably hook you up with some.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Honestly I'm putting a 8.5x2.5 2021 dhx2 to effectively bumping the travel up to 151. I can also shim it down to 140.


Does this only work with this shock in particular? I've not heard that there is the ability to over stroke this bike. I'd definitely be intrigued by having 150/140 or even 160/140 for the druid.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Does this only work with this shock in particular? I've not heard that there is the ability to over stroke this bike. I'd definitely be intrigued by having 150/140 or even 160/140 for the druid.


Yes you can. You need a 8.5 x 2.5 equivalent of 216 x 63.7. You want the 2021 dhx2 so you could add a 10mm travel spacers and you need some offset bushings on both sides of the shock eyelets .

there are some downsides to it. For 1 you bb will be very high. For 2 over shocking it wouldn't exactly make it faster, you can get a really good custom tune and get better performance. Idk i was thinking abut it for a bit but I'm just coming to custom tune a coil shock and if i ever want more travel ill switch to the long travel forbidden or the long travel norco high pivot.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Yes you can. You need a 8.5 x 2.5 equivalent of 216 x 63.7. You want the 2021 dhx2 so you could add a 10mm travel spacers and you need some offset bushings on both sides of the shock eyelets .
> 
> there are some downsides to it. For 1 you bb will be very high. For 2 over shocking it wouldn't exactly make it faster, you can get a really good custom tune and get better performance. Idk i was thinking abut it for a bit but I'm just coming to custom tune a coil shock and if i ever want more travel ill switch to the long travel forbidden or the long travel norco high pivot.


To be fair, if your not worried about warrenty issues, you could put that shock in and mullet the bike without a ziggy link. That would Combat the high bb. Not saying it would be as good as the legit method but there's more than one way to do things


----------



## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

yea i know a guy who did exactly that and it worked out quite well.

hey by the way has anyone else noticed that on forbidden website they measure the geo with a 571 ATC. that's the equivalent of a 36 at 160.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> yea i know a guy who did exactly that and it worked out quite well.
> 
> hey by the way has anyone else noticed that on forbidden website they measure the geo with a 571 ATC. that's the equivalent of a 36 at 160.


I've mentioned this previously in the forum. I have had written word from forbidden you can run a 160 marzocchi or fox. There is a screen shot of the conversation on the Facebook forbidden druid owners page


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

The new Norco Shore looks to be high pivot, but with travel closer to a Rocky Mountain Slayer [170mm rear in 29er, up to 200mm front]. For those who have caught glimpses of the new Forbidden Pagan, is it looking to be long travel [150] or loooooong travel [170]?

[It's a rainy/snowy Monday. Just aimlessly speculatin'.]


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> The new Norco Shore looks to be high pivot, but with travel closer to a Rocky Mountain Slayer [170mm rear in 29er, up to 200mm front]. For those who have caught glimpses of the new Forbidden Pagan, is it looking to be long travel [150] or loooooong travel [170]?
> 
> [It's a rainy/snowy Monday. Just aimlessly speculatin'.]


You can't tell with this linkage but there was a nervous smile when asked if it was 156. So it's so where arou d there


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Alanc12 said:


> You can't tell with this linkage but there was a nervous smile when asked if it was 156. So it's so where arou d there


have it on good authority its 154 rear / 170 up front


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

onawave said:


> have it on good authority its 154 rear / 170 up front


That would Make sense because the current lincage with a 65 stroke would make it approximately 154.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

onawave said:


> have it on good authority its 154 rear / 170 up front


Nice. Now, do I do a custom build or wait for completes to go on sale? :???:


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Nice. Now, do I do a custom build or wait for completes to go on sale? :???:


Custom build for sure


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> Nice. Now, do I do a custom build or wait for completes to go on sale? :???:


i have a custom build on order. shipping to auz has been delayed. what was a November December nbd - date is now February.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

onawave said:


> i have a custom build on order. shipping to auz has been delayed. what was a November December nbd - date is now February.


who did you order it through


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> who did you order it through


there is only one disti available in australia - and a few bike shops buy off them.

id rather not say which shop at the moment - as they have said to keep it a tad quiet on who is selling what.

a bit of digging though im sure you could find out easily if you are located in australia.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

I received my Forbidden Druid SLX build a couple of weeks ago. I’m coming off of a 2019 Devinci Troy with superboost+ (157mm) spacing. I would typically do a frame-only build, but considering I didn’t have a wheelset or cranks with boost spacing, coupled with the fact that I thought it would be easier to sell my Troy as a complete bike vs. frame-only, I convinced myself to get the complete SLX build. My plan was to transfer all of parts from my Troy to the Druid, save for the wheels, cranks and chain. Coincidentally, the new bike arrived the day that the new Troy was announced. 

The druid looked great. The details, the finish and the hardware didn’t disappoint. It went straight from the box only a bike stand for Ride Wrap application. 

Ride Wrap application was tedious but this is wasn’t unexpected. The seat tube extension on the top tube piece was particularly frustrating, but I got it to work. My biggest criticism of the Ride Wrap kit is the matte finish. Despite being matte, it is significantly more glossy than the steel blue paint. And because ride wrap leave 3mm gaps between pieces, the difference in finish is more obvious. Not a huge deal though. 

After wrapping, I reassembled the bike using the aforementioned bits. After assembly/during tuning, I ran into an issue with the SLX rear hub. In the workstand, the rear wheel wouldn’t freewheel and turned the cranks while coasting. I took the wheel off the bike and noticed that the free hub didn’t engage in either direction. This was slightly different from what I was seeing with the wheel mounted, but not expected nonetheless. I shot a note out to Forbidden (with a video of the freehub) asking if they could send me a replacement wheel. This was on Sunday Oct 11. 

I posted about the hub issue in this thread. 

On Tuesday Oct 13, not yet having heard back from Forbidden, I disassembled the hub. I didn’t do anything to “fix” it, but upon reassembly, it seemed to work as expected. 

Later that same day, I heard back from Forbidden, saying that this was a warranty issue and that I should reach out to Shimano NA and they’d likely send me a replacement hub. 

At this point, the recommendation from Forbidden was moot as I now had a working hub. That said, I was a bit surprised at their response. From everything I’ve read, its approximately a 2-3 week turnaround for warranty parts from Shimano. Add to that, I’d need a bike shop to rebuild the wheel, etc. I could’ve been bikeless for many weeks, if not 2+ months. 

All of that said, the hub is awesome. Great engagement and its silent 95% of the time. I now hear my fork making a squishing racket that I never knew it made. 

I took the bike on its first ride on Oct 14 and then a longer ride on Oct 15th. It is the bee’s knees. I don’t claim to have a well calibrated “butt dyno”, but this bike rides much better than my previous bike. 

Overall, save for the hub/support issue, the experience has been a home run. Seems to me that Forbidden should have some inventory of parts to swap out in the event of a situation like this. Afterall, this hub didn’t have a single tire-on-the-ground rotation. 

TLDR; the Druid rides awesome. Ride Wrap’s matte finish isn’t. Forbidden’s support model could use some help. I’ll likely never go back to buzzy hubs. 


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Some New England fall foliage beauty shots


































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## Skeptastic (Mar 31, 2012)

blinkie14 said:


> I am available for adoption


Haha!!


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## parkerross (Sep 28, 2020)

incubus said:


> I received my Forbidden Druid SLX build a couple of weeks ago. I'm coming off of a 2019 Devinci Troy with superboost+ (157mm) spacing. I would typically do a frame-only build, but considering I didn't have a wheelset or cranks with boost spacing, coupled with the fact that I thought it would be easier to sell my Troy as a complete bike vs. frame-only, I convinced myself to get the complete SLX build. My plan was to transfer all of parts from my Troy to the Druid, save for the wheels, cranks and chain. Coincidentally, the new bike arrived the day that the new Troy was announced.
> 
> The druid looked great. The details, the finish and the hardware didn't disappoint. It went straight from the box only a bike stand for Ride Wrap application.
> 
> ...


If you want to hear from forbidden fast reach out on facebook I've reached out a few times and they respond within an hour most times. I haven't tried to email them but I know they are super responsive on facebook chat. Also join the forbidden owners group on facebook they respond on there as well to peoples issues sometimes.


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## paradelap (May 7, 2020)

...


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

just went to switch my shock out and found that my front bolt thread insert has started to pull out of the frame. iv been properly torquing the bolts and everything.

has anyone else had this problem?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> just went to switch my shock out and found that my front bolt thread insert has started to pull out of the frame. iv been properly torquing the bolts and everything.
> 
> has anyone else had this problem?


Not on this bike, but other bikes yes. 
My rear axle comes loose often though!!

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Not on this bike, but other bikes yes.
> My rear axle comes loose often though!!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Welcome back.

Good to see you survived the madness of that train wreck of a thread :thumbsup:


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Welcome back.
> 
> Good to see you survived the madness of that train wreck of a thread :thumbsup:


Hahaha, You got that right!

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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> just went to switch my shock out and found that my front bolt thread insert has started to pull out of the frame. iv been properly torquing the bolts and everything.
> 
> has anyone else had this problem?


that's no good. I've probably pulled my rear shock off 10 times already trying to track down some creaking in the rear linkage, and haven't seen anything going awry with the front shock bolt. Thanks for the heads up, I'll pay more attention to it now. It's a bit weird that it would pull out--at least on mine the aluminum shock shaft is a close enough fit to the frame gap that very little flex of the frame can happen. Maybe the frame shock gap is too wide?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

hbar said:


> that's no good. I've probably pulled my rear shock off 10 times already trying to track down some creaking in the rear linkage, and haven't seen anything going awry with the front shock bolt. Thanks for the heads up, I'll pay more attention to it now. It's a bit weird that it would pull out--at least on mine the aluminum shock shaft is a close enough fit to the frame gap that very little flex of the frame can happen. Maybe the frame shock gap is too wide?


it was pretty sudden. it was bad enough the i ripped some carbon to get the shock out. its now sitting about a half of a mil out of the frame.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kmag76 said:


> Not on this bike, but other bikes yes.
> My rear axle comes loose often though!!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had a loose rear axle this weekend too, weird. Tire was rubbing under intense torque (standing sprint pedaling) and then my shifting went awry which is when I took a look. Sure enough, the bolt had backed out considerably. Hoping I didn't do any damage seeing as how I did some intense, fast, black and double black trails earlier in the ride.

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I had a loose rear axle this weekend too, weird. Tire was rubbing under intense torque (standing sprint pedaling) and then my shifting when awry which is when I took a look. Sure enough, the bolt had backed out considerably. Hoping I didn't do any damage seeing as how I did some intense, fast, black and double black trails earlier in the ride.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


what hub do you have


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I had a loose rear axle this weekend too, weird. Tire was rubbing under intense torque (standing sprint pedaling) and then my shifting when awry which is when I took a look. Sure enough, the bolt had backed out considerably. Hoping I didn't do any damage seeing as how I did some intense, fast, black and double black trails earlier in the ride.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, exactly how I can tell when this happens. 
It's probably happened 5x. 
I've even cleaned my axle and dropout threads with isopropyl and loctighted the axl threads.

My evils had green loctight on the threads. So maybe I'll go that route.

I try to make a mental note these days when I get to the top of my climbs to check the rear axle.

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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> just went to switch my shock out and found that my front bolt thread insert has started to pull out of the frame. iv been properly torquing the bolts and everything.
> 
> has anyone else had this problem?


Post the the Forbidden Facebook page about an issue with shock mount

"Minor manufacturing flaw. So tiny. The threads for the shock weren't deep enough so the shock mounting bolt would't snug before bottoming. It was from the first batch of the XT build. I haven't heard of anyone else having that issue. but I was able to add a washer and ride all season while waiting for the replacement. They have been great about it. Was completely their suggestion."

Same issue?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> what hub do you have


I9 hydra for me

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Yes, exactly how I can tell when this happens.
> It's probably happened 5x.
> I've even cleaned my axle and dropout threads with isopropyl and loctighted the axl threads.
> 
> ...


My LBS lightly loctited the shock bolts when they swapped out the DPX2 for the 11-6.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My LBS lightly loctited the shock bolts when they swapped out the DPX2 for the 11-6.


Yes, that's a good idea. 
Thanks for bringing that to attention

I do the same, I started doing that last year when one of my other bikes with trunion mounted bolts kept coming loose.

I would recommend that to everyone on here to loctight there bolts.

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I9 hydra for me
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


have you looked at the hub caps to make sure they are properly adjusted?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> what hub do you have


I9 Hydra on Crank Brothers E11 Carbon rims.

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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

Kmag76 said:


> I9 hydra for me
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ah, same here. Maybe this isn't a coincidence then...

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> have you looked at the hub caps to make sure they are properly adjusted?


Yes, I pulled them off recently when I was checking if my hubs needed servicing.

I am thinking that maybe the grease from my axle is getting in the threads every time I pull it out and put it back in. 
But idk. 
One of these days I'll go get some green loctight and clean everything up apply, and hopefully be done with it.

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

I had posted this over on the EXT Era thread

But I think I have found the absolute perfect balance! 
This EXT Era fork is the equivalent to the rear end of a Druid with coil shock. 
I brought it out on an awesome first ride the other day on some wet loamy BC trails. And can't get over how supple the whole bike is.

The front and rear do not get hung up on anything. It rides like a "mini trophy truck"


























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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I had posted this over on the EXT Era thread
> 
> But I think I have found the absolute perfect balance!
> This EXT Era fork is the equivalent to the rear end of a Druid with coil shock.
> ...


iv had the same experience with the 38 on my druid


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I had posted this over on the EXT Era thread
> 
> But I think I have found the absolute perfect balance!
> This EXT Era fork is the equivalent to the rear end of a Druid with coil shock.
> ...


Not to mention that the whole package looks 100% bad ass.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Yes, that's a good idea.
> Thanks for bringing that to attention
> 
> I do the same, I started doing that last year when one of my other bikes with trunion mounted bolts kept coming loose.
> ...


I am very fortunate that one of my 2 personal LBSs is a Forbidden dealer. They know this bike inside and out. Hence the loctite, moto foam, etc. I am in VERY good hands with them.

I have a **** tonne of miles over 2 seasons on my first production run 2019 Druid frame. I had 18 rides in the last 3 weeks of this season alone. Apart from blown bearings in the idler and a pooched lower chain guide, the thing has been bulletproof.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> iv had the same experience with the 38 on my druid


 Nice! Good to hear 

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not to mention that the whole package looks 100% bad ass.


Thanks!

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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> ...
> I have a **** tonne of miles over 2 seasons on my first production run 2019 Druid frame. I had 18 rides in the last 3 weeks of this season alone. Apart from blown bearings in the idler and a pooched lower chain guide, the thing has been bulletproof.


that's a good point. A shop can be invaluable.

Also, isn't that a metric **** tonne?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

I found this digging through the older pages of the forum.It looks to be one of the earliest hints at the pagan.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I found this digging through the older pages of the forum.It looks to be one of the earliest hints at the pagan.


I have it on very good authority that it's going to be heavy, and WAY more bike than most of us want/need. I was told point blank that I was on the right bike.

Time will tell I guess.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Hey guys, how much rearward travel does the Druid have? And how does it feel in corners? I figure with the really short chainstays it doesn't feel elongated.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Cerberus75 said:


> Hey guys, how much rearward travel does the Druid have? And how does it feel in corners? I figure with the really short chainstays it doesn't feel elongated.


Off the top of my head it's 25mm rearward bike growth, the axle path is 100% rearward movement.
Best Cornering bike I've ever had and apparently it only gets better with a ziggy link


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Cerberus75 said:


> Hey guys, how much rearward travel does the Druid have? And how does it feel in corners? I figure with the really short chainstays it doesn't feel elongated.


I'm riding an xl and at first i thought it was going to feel to long but trust it doesn't, it feels perfect.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have it on very good authority that it's going to be heavy, and WAY more bike than most of us want/need. I was told point blank that I was on the right bike.
> 
> Time will tell I guess.


I can confirm exactly that as I was told to my face by two people riding the new bike that it was in fact too much bike for most people. It sure does look nice tho.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I can confirm exactly that as I was told to my face by two people riding the new bike that it was in fact too much bike for most people. It sure does look nice tho.


When I see the phrase "too much bike", I think "wrong tool for the job" is more apt. Sounds like the Pagan will work well for bike park and steep/gnarly, less so for long pedals. Thank goodness for n+1, and the fact I live in the BC interior...


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> When I see the phrase "too much bike", I think "wrong tool for the job" is more apt. Sounds like the Pagan will work well for bike park and steep/gnarly, less so for long pedals. Thank goodness for n+1, and the fact I live in the BC interior...


I live near to some pretty gnarly dh trails and am pretty consistently in the top ten on strava. At this point the forbidden is the most capable and fast bike I've ever ridden( other than a dh bike) and that's saying something I've gotten to ride a friends 40lbs privateer with a 2 degree angle set offset bushings and a 180 38. (Also to note my Druid has a 1 degree headset and a 150 38)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> When I see the phrase "too much bike", I think "wrong tool for the job" is more apt. Sounds like the Pagan will work well for bike park and steep/gnarly, less so for long pedals. Thank goodness for n+1, and the fact I live in the BC interior...


Fair enough. I got the sense that if one plans to primarily ride park or shuttle, great. Apart from that, there may be some not so insignificant compromises reaching for the new bike over the Druid. This coming from a guy who spent some real ride time with the new bike (who refused to tell me the proposed new name).

I spent 3 seasons trail riding on a long travel Range and throughly enjoyed it. I never felt over biked. So after having said what I did, I still plan to carefully check out the new bike after its release (and, sadly, will likely be hooked). I was just conveying what was conveyed to me by a guy I consider to be a reasonably strong rider.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Fair enough. I got the sense that if one plans to primarily ride park or shuttle, great. Apart from that, there may be some not so insignificant compromises reaching for the new bike over the Druid. This coming from a guy who spent some real ride time with the new bike (who refused to tell me the proposed new name).
> 
> I spent 3 seasons trail riding on a long travel Range and throughly enjoyed it. I never felt over biked. So after having said what I did, I still plan to carefully check out the new bike after its release (and, sadly, will likely be hooked). I was just conveying what was conveyed to me by a guy I consider to be a reasonably strong rider.


Yea I'll definitely be checking it out along with the high pivot rang. I jus don't know that more bike will actually make me faster.

on Whole different tangent i really want forbidden to make a gearbox bike once Nicolai makes their new gearbox


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Yea I'll definitely be checking it out along with the high pivot rang. I jus don't know that more bike will actually make me faster.
> 
> on Whole different tangent i really want forbidden to make a gearbox bike once Nicolai makes their new gearbox


Longer travel bikes definitely have there place!

As much as I'd like to use my Druid all of the time, there are areas around here that I feel underbiked, and grab my spesh enduro instead.

This new bike should be awesome!Just need the proper terrain.

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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Reached out asking about the chance of an XXL in the future or longer frame on the bigger bike. 
response from Forbidden was, can't tell you much, not sure on XXL, early December for new bike announcement.

Fanatik told me no one over 6'2" will be happy on an XL. 
Forbidden told me they have a 6'6" employee who fits on an XL. 

Odd.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Reached out asking about the chance of an XXL in the future or longer frame on the bigger bike.
> response from Forbidden was, can't tell you much, not sure on XXL, early December for new bike announcement.
> 
> Fanatik told me no one over 6'2" will be happy on an XL.
> ...


I think it largely boils down to preference, and who you talk to.

I am 5'10". I have thrown a leg over both a medium and XL Druid, in addition to my large. I could easily ride any of the 3, although the large is probably optimum for me.

Some guys like big frames. Others like small frames.

I will say this - manualling on a medium is one hell of a lot easier than on a large.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I think it largely boils down to preference.
> 
> I am 5'10". I have thrown a leg over both a medium and XL Druid, in addition to my large. I could easily ride any of the 3, although the large is probably optimum for me.
> 
> ...


I just wish i could find an XL to throw a leg over and convince myself to send them my money!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I live near to some pretty gnarly dh trails and am pretty consistently in the top ten on strava. At this point the forbidden is the most capable and fast bike I've ever ridden( other than a dh bike) and that's saying something I've gotten to ride a friends 40lbs privateer with a 2 degree angle set offset bushings and a 180 38. (Also to note *my Druid has a 1 degree headset* and a 150 38)


I occasionally get in the top 10% on Strava on my former home trails, but I'm nowhere near that around here [Revelstoke]. The trails are so much bigger, rowdier and well-built than what I'm used to.

Which 1-degree headset did you get? I'd like to slack out the Druid just a bit to compensate for my old man skills.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Fair enough. I got the sense that if one plans to primarily ride park or shuttle, great. Apart from that, there may be some not so insignificant compromises reaching for the new bike over the Druid. This coming from a guy who spent some real ride time with the new bike (who refused to tell me the proposed new name).
> 
> I spent 3 seasons trail riding on a long travel Range and throughly enjoyed it. I never felt over biked. So after having said what I did, I still plan to carefully check out the new bike after its release (and, sadly, will likely be hooked). I was just conveying what was conveyed to me by a guy I consider to be a reasonably strong rider.


That's just the thing, I have a lift-accessed trail network 8 minutes pedal from my door, and an amazing shuttle area 10 minutes drive the other way. I've been riding both those zones this summer on the Druid, and it's been great, but I think I might have more fun on a slacker bike. I don't even need the extra rear travel, but 2 degrees off the front and able to handle a 170-180 fork would be sweet...


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> That's just the thing, I have a lift-accessed trail network 8 minutes pedal from my door, and an amazing shuttle area 10 minutes drive the other way. I've been riding both those zones this summer on the Druid, and it's been great, but I think I might have more fun on a slacker bike. I don't even need the extra rear travel, but 2 degrees off the front and able to handle a 170-180 fork would be sweet...


obviously the more travel would be great for park but you could always get a 2 degree angle set from works


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

CHWK said:


> I can confirm exactly that as I was told to my face by two people riding the new bike that it was in fact too much bike for most people. It sure does look nice tho.


Thanks, I've only ridden one once. And not in tight turns.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Cerberus75 said:


> Thanks, I've only ridden one once. And not in tight turns.


It's the best cornering bike that I have been on. I am a significantly better cornerer on this bike than anything else I have ridden. It makes me a much better rider than I am. Almost like cheating.

I can also also say the same thing about climbing (surprisingly enough), and most other stuff as well.

There were a few tight switchbacks in Fernie on the climbs that I was not able to clean (mostly because I was gassed), but I have yet to encounter anything on the downs that I have not been able to negotiate. I don't find it unwieldy in the slightest in tight switchbacks. And I can rail berms on that bike much faster than I should be able to, given my skill level. Like I said - almost like cheating.


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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It's the best cornering bike that I have been on. I am a significantly better cornerer on this bike than anything else I have ridden. It makes me a much better rider than I am. Almost like cheating.
> 
> I can also also say the same thing about climbing (surprisingly enough), and most other stuff as well.
> 
> There were a few tight switchbacks in Fernie on the climbs that I was not able to clean (mostly because I was gassed), but I have yet to encounter anything on the downs that I have not been able to negotiate. I don't find it unwieldy in the slightest in tight switchbacks. And I can rail berms on that bike much faster than I should be able to, given my skill level. Like I said - almost like cheating.


When I got to throw my leg over one it was on a nice techy climb. And bombed it back down. I was really impressed.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> That's just the thing, I have a lift-accessed trail network 8 minutes pedal from my door, and an amazing shuttle area 10 minutes drive the other way. I've been riding both those zones this summer on the Druid, and it's been great, but I think I might have more fun on a slacker bike. I don't even need the extra rear travel, but 2 degrees off the front and able to handle a 170-180 fork would be sweet...


this is exactly why i have dibs on one


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

November can't come soon enough. Parts are beginning to arrive for my build but no frame yet.

Anyone with a standard coil shock (rockshox/fox, non of that fancy tuned stuff) care to comment on how well they worked out of the box with this frame? I was contemplating getting a RS SD Ultimate Coil and having it tuned by Vorsprung, but adding up the cost on that I might as well buy a EXT Storia. Wondering if the standard shock on its own with a stock tune will make a noticeable improvement?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

CHWK said:


> November can't come soon enough. Parts are beginning to arrive for my build but no frame yet.
> 
> Anyone with a standard coil shock (rockshox/fox, non of that fancy tuned stuff) care to comment on how well they worked out of the box with this frame? I was contemplating getting a RS SD Ultimate Coil and having it tuned by Vorsprung, but adding up the cost on that I might as well buy a EXT Storia. Wondering if the standard shock on its own with a stock tune will make a noticeable improvement?


My co worker bought a DHX2 for his Druid, and was blown away with how much better it was than the DPX2. 
As long as you can get the spring rate right, it should be awesome

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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

CHWK said:


> November can't come soon enough. Parts are beginning to arrive for my build but no frame yet.
> 
> Anyone with a standard coil shock (rockshox/fox, non of that fancy tuned stuff) care to comment on how well they worked out of the box with this frame? I was contemplating getting a RS SD Ultimate Coil and having it tuned by Vorsprung, but adding up the cost on that I might as well buy a EXT Storia. Wondering if the standard shock on its own with a stock tune will make a noticeable improvement?


I'm in the same boat as you. I was going to do an avalanche tuned marzocchi cr but by time it's on the bikes I'm looking at $1000 Canadian, not far of a ext storia, which if a much better shock. Especially having the bottom out resistance adjustment.
I was thinking of just trying a marzocchi cr to see how it goes. Seems too be the cheapest option, especially since everyone just runs rebound and compression wide open on this bike anyways.
On a side note, what coil weight is everyone running and rider weight.
I'm 180lbs ish, pretty aggressive Rider. Thinking 425-450lb coil would be ideal?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alan, I’m 205 and running a 425 and 450
EXT originally sent me like a 475 and 500 but when I got them on the bike, it turned out they were much to still. I think I got 13% sag with the 475
So we went back to the drawing board, it turns out that the 425 is perfect. 

The spring calculator really doesn’t work for this bike. 
I’d go lighter if I were you. 


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Alan, I'm 205 and running a 425 and 450
> EXT originally sent me like a 475 and 500 but when I got them on the bike, it turned out they were much to still. I think I got 13% sag with the 475
> So we went back to the drawing board, it turns out that the 425 is perfect.
> 
> ...


Good too know, maybe 400 would be a better match then.

Been meaning to msg you abort how sick that bike looks now. Much differance between the mezzer and ext era?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Reached out asking about the chance of an XXL in the future or longer frame on the bigger bike.
> response from Forbidden was, can't tell you much, not sure on XXL, early December for new bike announcement.
> 
> Fanatik told me no one over 6'2" will be happy on an XL.
> ...


6'2 on xl plenty roomy. Bike feels bigger than geo numbers suggest imho


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alanc12 said:


> Good too know, maybe 400 would be a better match then.
> 
> Been meaning to msg you abort how sick that bike looks now. Much differance between the mezzer and ext era?


Thanks!
They are both great, the small bump on the Era is unbelievable though. 
Just finished riding in sicamous, that area I was telling you about. 
The end is near though

























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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Thanks!
> They are both great, the small bump on the Era is unbelievable though.
> Just finished riding in sicamous, that area I was telling you about.
> The end is near though
> ...


Yea that's the only trail I rode in the 4mobths I was living there lol. 
The end has come for me in Medicine Hat, just had to snow shovel for the first time this season lol


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Alanc12 said:


> Good too know, maybe 400 would be a better match then.
> 
> Been meaning to msg you abort how sick that bike looks now. Much differance between the mezzer and ext era?


Maybe something like a bomber CR and a spingdex spring would be the way to go?

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Not entirely on point, but I would like to try a 425 lb spring for my 11-6. They gave me a 450 lb spring. I can hammer the **** out of anything in front of me with zero effs given, but I wonder whether a 425 lb spring might be a bit better match for my riding style. I will never be mistaken for Lewis B out there.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Maybe something like a bomber CR and a spingdex spring would be the way to go?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I like the way you think!


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not entirely on point, but I would like to try a 425 lb spring for my 11-6. They gave me a 450 lb spring. I can hammer the **** out of anything in front of me with zero effs given, but I wonder whether a 425 lb spring might be a bit better match for my riding style. I will never be mistaken for Lewis B out there.


That's a good idea!

I can tell a lot of difference between 25lb spring rate. The Druid is so progressive that I actually like the feel of the softer spring. 
You could try something like the springdex that I recommend for Alan. 
Cane creek might make 25lb increment springs as well. But not 100% sure. 
Also gotta make sure the spring is compatible with the shock.

Very cool products!

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## Cerberus75 (Oct 20, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Maybe something like a bomber CR and a spingdex spring would be the way to go?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a Springdex on my Avalanche Chubie. I like it a lot. Most of the time I need a spring that's 410-425 depending on terrain and total rider weight. Its easier to use than adjusting air pressure on an air shock.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Cerberus75 said:


> I have a Springdex on my Avalanche Chubie. I like it a lot. Most of the time I need a spring that's 410-425 depending on terrain and total rider weight. Its easier to use than adjusting air pressure on an air shock.


ive been reading into them for the last hour now. Didnt realise they were progressive for the last 20% of travel. that awesome.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Kmag76 said:


> Alan, I'm 205 and running a 425 and 450
> EXT originally sent me like a 475 and 500 but when I got them on the bike, it turned out they were much to still. I think I got 13% sag with the 475
> So we went back to the drawing board, it turns out that the 425 is perfect.
> 
> ...


 Certainly not doubting you and I'll be using this information when I get my EXT Storia re-configured for my new to me Druid

but just for reference my EXT Storia on a Yeti SB5C and then Evil Offering sat at 30% SAG with either 525# or 550# spring with me at 200 pounds (preferred the 525#) its just hard to believe the spring can go that low on the Druid seeing as the Evil especially has similar progressiveness

anyway will be great if it works the same for me, cheers for the info

Also be good to hear more Storia/Druid info/reviews and weight to spring ratios etc.

Cheers Dean


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

4vdean said:


> Certainly not doubting you and I'll be using this information when I get my EXT Storia re-configured for my new to me Druid
> 
> but just for reference my EXT Storia on a Yeti SB5C and then Evil Offering sat at 30% SAG with either 525# or 550# spring with me at 200 pounds (preferred the 525#) its just hard to believe the spring can go that low on the Druid seeing as the Evil especially has similar progressiveness
> 
> ...


Yeah the distributor/servicing center had a hard time believing this. 
They contacted Owen, and had his input as well. And came up with the new spring numbers. 
I have #425 and a #450, and I prefer the #425. 
And think it measured right around 30%

I had to use a broken tape measure blade, and taped the end. (0 ) to the rear shock bolt, using the front bolt as my end point @210mm. When compressed the tape measure will show your sag in mm.

I have not tried a different coil in this bike so I don't have anything to compare it to, but I did find that the coil completely transformed this bike! From a bike that was pretty good, To unbelievably good! (Your in for a treat)

I had a push 11/6 on my offering, and I believe it was a #550 
And that Yeti is fairly liner, how did the coil play with the suspension design? (I used to own a 5.5)

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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Kmag76 said:


> Yeah the distributor/servicing center had a hard time believing this.
> They contacted Owen, and had his input as well. And came up with the new spring numbers.
> I have #425 and a #450, and I prefer the #425.
> And think it measured right around 30%
> ...


The Yeti was great with the Storia, they really know ho to tune a shock to particular bikes, as I'm sure push do as well

I'm certainly looking forward to the Druid, moving everything over from the offering which is only 6 months old, just not gelling with it, everything the Druid does is exactly what I want, I have the offering set up well and is certainly not a bad bike, I'm just too fussy nowadays and seeking the goldilocks (if it exists)


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*Magura MT7*

Not sure how many of you guys and girls are running Magura brakes but I've been riding for a long time and my mind is officially blown. I went from Code R ( good brakes, no **** talk here), to Magura MT's and , wow. It's hard to describe the power, quality, and modulation. This probably sounds like an ad but if you're on the fence about brakes, try the MT7's. They are insanely good.
I now have the best bike I've ever ridden backed by the best brakes I've ever used.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Bailey100 said:


> Not sure how many of you guys and girls are running Magura brakes but I've been riding for a long time and my mind is officially blown. I went from Code R ( good brakes, no **** talk here), to Magura MT's and , wow. It's hard to describe the power, quality, and modulation. This probably sounds like an ad but if you're on the fence about brakes, try the MT7's. They are insanely good.
> I now have the best bike I've ever ridden backed by the best brakes I've ever used.


I agree with this. I tried a set of MT7s last week and they blew my mind as well. Reference point is Guide Ultimates, XT 4 pots, and SLX 4 pots.

Every rider I know at my LBS runs Magura. The cost though...


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## krylon1892 (Dec 3, 2009)

4vdean said:


> The Yeti was great with the Storia, they really know ho to tune a shock to particular bikes, as I'm sure push do as well
> 
> I'm certainly looking forward to the Druid, moving everything over from the offering which is only 6 months old, just not gelling with it, everything the Druid does is exactly what I want, I have the offering set up well and is certainly not a bad bike, I'm just too fussy nowadays and seeking the goldilocks (if it exists)


I'm in the same boat as you. Had an Offering, was just meh on it. I mean nothing wrong, just wasn't excited by it. Custom suspension and all. The Druid has absolutely blown me away in every condition. Though I haven't done any jump lines on it yet. The Evil was good at that!


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I agree with this. I tried a set of MT7s last week and they blew my mind as well. Reference point is Guide Ultimates, XT 4 pots, and SLX 4 pots.
> 
> Every rider I know at my LBS runs Magura. The cost though...


are you guys planning on retro fitting shimano break levers ?

also the most amazing brakes iv'e ever felt are the hayes dominion A4s. they feel like shimanos but twice as powerful and twice as light of a lever stroke. wouldn't buy any other thing short of trick stuffs after having these.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

The dominion A4’s are amazing brakes! 
These will probably be the next set of brakes I buy. 
The little set screws on the caliper make it so much simpler to set up. 

I use Magura MT7 and Formula Cura4 which are both amazing as well! 
The Magura’s are finicky, the pads run so close to the rotor, that they are hard to keep them from rubbing. And they are hard to bleed. 
But they have awesome power/modulation. So that I why I have stuck with them. (I’m on my 6th pair)

I don’t really care for the ergonomics of the cura4 lever, but they are easier to keep running than the magura. 
I changed out the levers to an Italian aftermarket lever for a better feel and have been using them with trick stuff pads, and the brakes are scary powerful 


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*Dominions*

I had a hard look at the Dominions before I ended up with the MT7's. They look like a quality brake. 
I'm honestly so blown away by the Maguras.
Last bike, Carbon Warden with Hope V4's , Then codes on this one before switching and I know the Hope fans will be mad but, the Maguras blow them out of the water.
The Hope had more adjustment at the lever but I actually really like the Magura one finger lever and the power is next level.
The MT7 also has a better feel at the lever for me than either the Hope or the code. Comes down to personal preference and I come from a moto background but these are as close as I've come to nirvana in mtb brakes.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> The dominion A4's are amazing brakes!
> These will probably be the next set of brakes I buy.
> The little set screws on the caliper make it so much simpler to set up.
> 
> ...


Sadly, I won't buy anything Dougal has pushed on here. Perhaps that's not a rational approach but that's where I am at. I am nowhere near the only one either. For me, the dude has tainted every single product he sells, by virtue of his online obnoxiousness.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Sadly, I won't buy anything Dougal has pushed on here. Perhaps that's not a rational approach but that's where I am at. I am nowhere near the only one either. For me, the dude has tainted every single product he sells, by virtue of his online obnoxiousness.


I totally get it!

I am not influenced by him in any way. ( I didn't realize he was pushing the dominion)
I do my research on a product and if it looks like something I'd like to try then pull the trigger. 
It does help that I work for a shop, when I am constantly replacing parts on my bikes though.

And for anyone wanting to try some great brakes at a decent cost. Look into the "Magura MT Trail sport" these brakes are next level as well. With a pad change they are as powerful as the MT7
I think I seen them online @merlin cycle for $210cnd. Plus like $35 per rotor. So $280 all in. 

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I totally get it!
> 
> I am not influenced by him in any way. ( I didn't realize he was pushing the dominion)
> I do my research on a product and if it looks like something I'd like to try then pull the trigger.
> ...


Im in the same boat. Im lucky enough to work for a bike shop so i get to try a lot of stuff out.

i personally got to try the dominions on a co-workers bike and was immediately sold. it was just a bonus that it has dual bleed ports on the caliper.

i am still going to switch to some good ridge hoses for some added power.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

*Epoxying the front shock bolt insert*

Hey guys finally got my threaded shock bolt insert back in and thought i should share some photos








Turns out that the carbon is threaded so you can actually replace the insert if the threads go bad or the epoxy breaks its bond.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Turns out that the carbon is threaded so you can actually replace the insert if the threads go bad or the epoxy breaks its bond.


Nice! Hopefully, I'll never have to do that. Also, JB Weld all the things! :thumbsup:


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*Threaded insert*



Forbiddenforlife said:


> Hey guys finally got my threaded shock bolt insert back in and thought i should share some photos
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If the threads in the carbon were good, I think you might have wanted to use some red loctite instead of the epoxy. If the threads go bad now you'll never break that epoxy without damaging the frame. With Loctite 272, you can just heat it until it releases.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> If the threads in the carbon were good, I think you might have wanted to use some red loctite instead of the epoxy. If the threads go bad now you'll never break that epoxy without damaging the frame. With Loctite 272, you can just heat it until it releases.


The epoxy is what forbidden told me to and what they do from factory. The problem that i had is that the bolts came from factory with loctite and that is what broke the epoxy bond. Loctite would be a temporary fix and would damage just as much as epoxy would


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*Loctite*

Ok ,weird.
I'm a millwright and we use Loctite red for this type of insert all the time. 
Strange that it would break without heat. Maybe not clean when installed ?
The epoxy will definitely be a permanent solution.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> Ok ,weird.
> I'm a millwright and we use Loctite red for this type of insert all the time.
> Strange that it would break without heat. Maybe not clean when installed ?
> The epoxy will definitely be a permanent solution.


Strange? They probably didn't even think about it when they were developing the bike.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Im in the same boat. Im lucky enough to work for a bike shop so i get to try a lot of stuff out.
> 
> i personally got to try the dominions on a co-workers bike and was immediately sold. it was just a bonus that it has dual bleed ports on the caliper.
> 
> i am still going to switch to some good ridge hoses for some added power.


Don't push me over the edge! 
The dominion with the good ridge lines sound awesome! How are the stock pads?
Haha, I'm sure at some point this winter I will get a pair.

I just bought another storia today for my Levo SL with cascade link. (Next up is some i9 wheels and XT/XTR drivetrain)

It must have snowed 4-5" today. The trails are gonna be an absolute mess! The season might have been cut short! 
Was really looking forward to some more time on the Druid before winter.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Guys - I have 2 bikes incoming in a week. They have Level T brakes. Those brakes were on my Honzo for about 30 seconds before I swapped them out for XT 4 pots. Unfortunately, I don’t work for an LBS, so no access to the deep discounts you guys have access to. 

What do you recommend for good bang for the buck cold weather brakes? I have SLX 4 pots on my Unit, which is my dedicated winter commuter, and they functioned flawlessly last winter in temps down to minus 30. Any reason to not go with them, or maybe XT 4 pots? 

Thanks guys.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Don't push me over the edge!
> The dominion with the good ridge lines sound awesome! How are the stock pads?
> Haha, I'm sure at some point this winter I will get a pair.
> 
> ...


The stock pads are great. I would also recommend getting some galpher 223 rotors, it makes for a super powerful combo


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Guys - I have 2 bikes incoming in a week. They have Level T brakes. Those brakes were on my Honzo for about 30 seconds before I swapped them out for XT 4 pots. Unfortunately, I don't work for an LBS, so no access to the deep discounts you guys have access to.
> 
> What do you recommend for good bang for the buck cold weather brakes? I have SLX 4 pots on my Unit, which is my dedicated winter commuter, and they functioned flawlessly last winter in temps down to minus 30. Any reason to not go with them, or maybe XT 4 pots?
> 
> Thanks guys.


IMHO 
You should definitely have a look at the Magura MT trail sport, they have unreal stopping power. And are very affordable

I don't know what temperature rating they go to but I've used them to -10c

https://www.merlincycles.com/magura-mt-trail-sport-disc-brake-set-102037.html

You will also need new rotors. Something that is 2mm thick

https://www.merlincycles.com/magura-storm-hc-e-bike-disc-rotor-100428.html

I am 205lb and have tried a lot of brakes over the years, and these rank right up there with the best of them. Just my 2cents

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> IMHO
> You should definitely have a look at the Magura MT trail sport, they have unreal stopping power. And are very affordable
> 
> I don't know what temperature rating they go to but I've used them to -10c
> ...


Thanks man. I will call my LBS tomorrow and see if they can access these, and for how much. They will be ridden in temps as low as minus 20. Maybe lower.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> The stock pads are great. I would also recommend getting some galpher 223 rotors, it makes for a super powerful combo


Those glapher rotors look sick too! 
I have some glapher pads on my MT7s now, they have good stopping power but squeal!

I'll definitely check this stuff out. 
I was working on a customer bike a few weeks ago. And they had dominions, I couldn't believe the effortless feel of the levers.

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Those glapher rotors look sick too!
> I have some glapher pads on my MT7s now, they have good stopping power but squeal!
> 
> I'll definitely check this stuff out.
> ...


Yea i went from guides to those and immediately felt a big difference in hand cramping on long descents


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Yea i went from guides to those and immediately felt a big difference in hand cramping on long descents


That's a BIG jump In performance

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> That's a BIG jump In performance
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yea. Have you seen the dominion t2 brakes?


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks man. I will call my LBS tomorrow and see if they can access these, and for how much. They will be ridden in temps as low as minus 20. Maybe lower.


Np
If you were closer, I'd say to just order some, and I'd instal them for you.

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Yea. Have you seen the dominion t2 brakes?


I just looked them up. I've never seen these, They are pretty sick!
If they made them in a T4 I'd be intrigued.

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I just looked them up. I've never seen these, They are pretty sick!
> If they made them in a T4 I'd be intrigued.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Tare a look at Hayes insta. They posted what seems to be a carbon a4 and a2 levers


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi,
I am around 67kg/148lbs riding weight. Installed a 2021 DHX2 with 300lbs spring. Based on Fox website, I should be in the 31% sag range.

Traction and plushness definitely up another level (it was very good with e DPX2). Multiple hits and cornering are both very good. 

I like to ask about the DHX2 bumper. when I was seated on the bike, the exposed shaft was left with 10mm to 15mm only, the bumper taking up the rest of the travel. Is this normal? Seems like any hit will take out the remaining shaft travel n reach the bumper easily. Is this normal for other coil shock? I did not feel any hard bottom out or kick though.

Thanks.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

revver said:


> Hi,
> I am around 67kg/148lbs riding weight. Installed a 2021 DHX2 with 300lbs spring. Based on Fox website, I should be in the 31% sag range.
> 
> Traction and plushness definitely up another level (it was very good with e DPX2). Multiple hits and cornering are both very good.
> ...


Spring sounds super light. Did you measure the sag or is that a guess?
Also I know they increased the size of the bumper for a smooth bottom out feal


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Guys - I have 2 bikes incoming in a week. They have Level T brakes. Those brakes were on my Honzo for about 30 seconds before I swapped them out for XT 4 pots. Unfortunately, I don't work for an LBS, so no access to the deep discounts you guys have access to.
> 
> What do you recommend for good bang for the buck cold weather brakes? I have SLX 4 pots on my Unit, which is my dedicated winter commuter, and they functioned flawlessly last winter in temps down to minus 30. Any reason to not go with them, or maybe XT 4 pots?
> 
> Thanks guys.


If you don't mind grey market, the prices these guys have on SLX brakes are VERY good: https://bikecomponents.ca/collections/disc-brakes

I've used the Level T brakes for a winter in Calgary, and they're not horrible. Way better than Guides, IMHO.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*EXT Storia*

Took the plunge and ordered the Storia from Alba last week. Matt had one in stock and did the revalve and shipped it already. 
I should have it early this week.
Any Storia guys have some suggestions on where to start with compression and rebound ?
For reference I was running my DPX2 about 5 clicks from full pogo and very little compression.
Any input welcomed..
Winter here already but heading to Vedder in about 10 days...
Cheers


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> If you don't mind grey market, the prices these guys have on SLX brakes are VERY good: https://bikecomponents.ca/collections/disc-brakes
> 
> I've used the Level T brakes for a winter in Calgary, and they're not horrible. Way better than Guides, IMHO.


Thanks man. Currently in Calgary...










Currently on Braggin Rights...










Sorry for the diversion...back to all things Druid...


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Bailey100 said:


> Took the plunge and ordered the Storia from Alba last week. Matt had one in stock and did the revalve and shipped it already.
> I should have it early this week.
> Any Storia guys have some suggestions on where to start with compression and rebound ?
> For reference I was running my DPX2 about 5 clicks from full pogo and very little compression.
> ...


Your in for something special!

This is what I've been using with the softer spring. And have been using all of my travel with ground hugging performance.










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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

*Storia*

Perfect, that's what I was looking for.
Did you notice a big difference from the stock DPX2?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> Perfect, that's what I was looking for.
> Did you notice a big difference from the stock DPX2?


 I thought about getting an ext shock for a while but decided on getting a bomber and custom tuning it myself. So far its been amazing and now i know the basics of tuning


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Currently chatting with our distributor here in BC about an EXT or a Formula Mod for mine. Leaning towards EXT but that new mod looks really snazzy. Just got a Vorsprung Smashpot for my Lyrik Ultimate today and paint matched the fork lowers to the new frame. The next 2 weeks cannot go fast enough.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Currently chatting with our distributor here in BC about an EXT or a Formula Mod for mine. Leaning towards EXT but that new mod looks really snazzy. Just got a Vorsprung Smashpot for my Lyrik Ultimate today and paint matched the fork lowers to the new frame. The next 2 weeks cannot go fast enough.


I know that the bomber cr's aesthetics aren't as nice and the hydraulic bottom out would be sick but i would recommend getting a bomber car custom tuned. They are super easy to service, have really good internals and perform amazingly with the avalanche upgrades


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I know that the bomber cr's aesthetics aren't as nice and the hydraulic bottom out would be sick but i would recommend getting a bomber car custom tuned. They are super easy to service, have really good internals and perform amazingly with the avalanche upgrades


The problem with living in Canada + Exchange Rate + COVID is that by the time I buy one and ship it to Avalanche to have tuned I am really not far off from just buying a EXT or Formula here.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

CHWK said:


> The problem with living in Canada + Exchange Rate + COVID is that by the time I buy one and ship it to Avalanche to have tuned I am really not far off from just buying a EXT or Formula here.


That is true. I didn't even think about that part of the equation for you


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Bailey100 said:


> Perfect, that's what I was looking for.
> Did you notice a big difference from the stock DPX2?


Yes, This bike was meant for a coil IMO 
It was good with the DPX2. 
But the coil is next level. Super supple, and there is still a platform to push off of to pop.

I don't have another coil to compare to on this bike, but am super happy with what it! Worth the money!

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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Yes, This bike was meant for a coil IMO
> It was good with the DPX2.
> But the coil is next level. Super supple, and there is still a platform to push off of to pop.
> 
> ...


Elia Now i have to tune my 38 to match the bomber


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I thought about getting an ext shock for a while but decided on getting a bomb what did you er and custom tuning it myself. So far its been amazing and now i know the basics of tuning


What did you do to the tune? Lighter compression curcuit?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> What did you do to the tune? Lighter compression curcuit?


Yes took two of the large shims out and it lightened compression quite a bit. It was my first time ever tuning so I think i could still make some improvements


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Yes took two of the large shims out and it lightened compression quite a bit. It was my first time ever tuning so I think i could still make some improvements


Got a link for the tuning guide?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> Got a link for the tuning guide?


No sadly. I wish they made something like that. I just used the stock compression tune diagram and decided which shims to take out.

think of shims as leaf springs, the large shims affect overall damping while the smaller shims affect the ramp of the damping.

here's a link to the parts drawing, you can see the compression from this link. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=999


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> No sadly. I wish they made something like that. I just used the stock compression tune diagram and decided which shims to take out.
> 
> think of shims as leaf springs, the large shims affect overall damping while the smaller shims affect the ramp of the damping.
> 
> here's a link to the parts drawing, you can see the compression from this link. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=999


I'm sure there would be an old fox van service manual around that would be rough enough to follow too hey. Same shock after all


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Alanc12 said:


> I'm sure there would be an old fox van service manual around that would be rough enough to follow too hey. Same shock after all


Yea probably. Idk i think its just one of those things that you Learn from your mistakes


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> No sadly. I wish they made something like that. I just used the stock compression tune diagram and decided which shims to take out.
> 
> think of shims as leaf springs, the large shims affect overall damping while the smaller shims affect the ramp of the damping.
> 
> here's a link to the parts m=bike&id=999[/URL]


https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1030


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## revver (Sep 30, 2013)

Alanc12 said:


> Spring sounds super light. Did you measure the sag or is that a guess?
> Also I know they increased the size of the bumper for a smooth bottom out feal


Hi, I measure the sag using the exposed shaft, i used approximately 17mm of sag.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

*bottom bracket weep hole*

I neglected to make a hole in the Ride Wrap for the water weep hole in the bottom bracket. This was a mistake--a fair amount of water collected in the BB after only a few bike rinses (no rain here).

Not sure where the water comes in (stash? water bottle cage screws?) since I did a hose with low/no pressure rinse, but now I've opened the hole up and it drains properly. Figured I'd give an FYI in case anyone else makes the same mistake I did.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

hbar said:


> I neglected to make a hole in the Ride Wrap for the water weep hole in the bottom bracket. This was a mistake--a fair amount of water collected in the BB after only a few bike rinses (no rain here).
> 
> Not sure where the water comes in (stash? water bottle cage screws?) since I did a hose with low/no pressure rinse, but now I've opened the hole up and it drains properly. Figured I'd give an FYI in case anyone else makes the same mistake I did.


Thank you. I can see myself making this exact mistake.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

hbar said:


> I neglected to make a hole in the Ride Wrap for the water weep hole in the bottom bracket. This was a mistake--a fair amount of water collected in the BB after only a few bike rinses (no rain here).
> 
> Not sure where the water comes in (stash? water bottle cage screws?) since I did a hose with low/no pressure rinse, but now I've opened the hole up and it drains properly. Figured I'd give an FYI in case anyone else makes the same mistake I did.


Mistake aside, how did you find the install? Just got my tailored kit before my frame shows up. Wondering what I am in for with the install.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

CHWK said:


> Mistake aside, how did you find the install? Just got my tailored kit before my frame shows up. Wondering what I am in for with the install.


Good question, I'm in the same boat. And as referred to in this article, I'm also "fussy but impatient and lacking talent"

https://nsmb.com/articles/wrapping-fork-ridewrap/


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Mistake aside, how did you find the install? Just got my tailored kit before my frame shows up. Wondering what I am in for with the install.


Not directed to me but FWIW, I almost lost my daughter, my GF and my sanity. And then I did my Honzo right after. Sigh...


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not directed to me but FWIW, I almost lost my daughter, my GF and my sanity. And then I did my Honzo right after. Sigh...


Well my wife is going to divorce me when she sees the price of this build anyways. So...


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Frazam said:


> Good question, I'm in the same boat. And as referred to in this article, I'm also "fussy but impatient and lacking talent"
> 
> https://nsmb.com/articles/wrapping-fork-ridewrap/


It went ok, particularly once I defined success downward, as @mtnbikermike noted I would. It works to protect from the many small rocks i hear clanging off the frame, and the many small bubbles I have aren't really noticeable once covered in dirt.

i watched their video and followed the instructions and it went ok. I got a fair number of bubbles under the wrap initially (get your work lighting set up better than I did so you can catch them early, so they are easier to remove) I worked some out, then got lazy and used a pin to drain several.

One thing that the wrap doesn't protect is the place where rocks get stuck between the rear tri and the seat tube. I don't think the wrap would protect enough, however, so the moto foam/other shields is a better solution there. but you could cut an extra piece for that area if you want.

I only have one or two small edges that didn't stay down and are collected some dust, so overall it's ok. I'd do it again for sure, just not soon!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Might just be worth taking a day trip to whistler and having them do it for me


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

I've wrapped a couple of frames. Typically takes 2-3 hours. First thing is make sure the frame and your hands/fingers are absolutely clean. Second use a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle of water. Third keep the frame and the wrap WET while trying to work it and position it also squeegee from the center of the film to the edges working as much water out as possible. Four have some type of method for heating film like a heat gun or hair dryer to help conform to any compound curves, the heat also helps to seal the edges down. Lastly take your time and if you get frustrated walk away and come back later. It's a tedious process that requires a good deal of patience.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Rngspnr said:


> I've wrapped a couple of frames. Typically takes 2-3 hours. First thing is make sure the frame and your hands/fingers are absolutely clean. Second use a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle of water. Third keep the frame and the wrap WET while trying to work it and position it also squeegee from the center of the film to the edges working as much water out as possible. Four have some type of method for heating film like a heat gun or hair dryer to help conform to any compound curves, the heat also helps to seal the edges down. Lastly take your time and if you get frustrated walk away and come back later. It's a tedious process that requires a good deal of patience.


This was NOT my experience with either bike. I don't know how it would even be possible to apply a tailored kit in 2-3 hours. I bet the RideWrap folks take longer, and they have undoubtedly applied hundreds of kits.

Each of my bikes took me 2-3 days. I was so frustrated at times that I would step back and scream as loud as I could. I think my neighbours may have thought I was being murdered in my kitchen.

I found that no matter how much soap I put in the water, the glue dried too quickly. I read everything I could find online and watched every video, but I couldn't get mine to work like others - others seemed to be able to lay it down and take however much time they needed to effortlessly put it in place as it floated on the frame on a layer of water. They would then casually reach for the squeegee and complete what looked to be a perfect job. I could never get mine to do that. I always seemed to run out of time before there was some degree of adhesion and no more floating. For each piece, it usually turned into a mad scramble for me. For a lot of pieces I had to rip them right off the frame and start over. Sometimes more than once.

Grace and steeze are not words which come to mind to describe my efforts doing this. I would say more like desperation, panic and humility.

And don't get me going on fingerprints...

I actually called RideWrap a few times mid-application for moral support. Those guys were GREAT. They should consider working part time for the police, as guys who can talk people off ledges.

I made it through 2 bikes. I did my Honzo second. It turned out better but the frame is smooth shiny steel, and rounded everywhere. The Druid had a lot of funky curves, and some of the pieces were like a jigsaw puzzle, trying to figure out exactly how/where they were to be applied. The Honzo still looks perfect. My Druid has pieces here and there that eventually lifted at the edges - pieces in funky curves where I had to stretch the vinyl and use the hairdryer.

In the end, things worked out well. I am happy I put it on both bikes. I was questioning whether it was required for a matte black carbon frame but after a few mishaps on some jankier ****, I was very happy I had put it on. It seems to have fully protected the frame in a few places where the wrap itself got torn to shreds.

Make sure you take some time to get ready before you start. I used a bike stand in my kitchen with some industrial lighting and a very strong headlamp. Don't be too hard on yourself - what seem like massive eff ups at the time, will likely be insignificant. I got so dialled into it that I could see dust on my frame that looked like boulders.

That reminds me...keep the frame clean throughout. After you put a piece in place, you will likely be spraying it with water. Be sure to clean off the overspray before applying the next piece. Take your time - being meticulous will pay off. For the end result and your mental well being.

The biggest lesson I learned was that I did not miss my calling in life as a RideWrap installer.

All that said, it's a great product that I would buy for every bike if available (availability of the custom tailored kit is kinda hit and miss, but they have managed to cover a surprisingly wide range of brands and models). Great job RideWrap. It's not their fault I wasn't born a master installer.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Might just be worth taking a day trip to whistler and having them do it for me


If that's an option, that would be a no-brainer for me. Applying it was neither easy nor satisfying. I almost cried at times. Literally. Just do it. Save yourself the emotional roller coaster ride, and hang out in the village doing civilized things while you let someone else with expertise wrestle with this.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

It does take 2-3 hours. It is not that fun hour 2 but nothing a good ol' beer can't fix! make sure everything is soaked with soapy (baby shampoo) water and clean! Use gloves so you don't contaminate any surfaces. Maybe i'll do a timelapse of me doing mine my frame just arrived.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

I also agree, 2-3 hours. 

I usually have a spray bottle of isopropyl and a clean rag. Clean up the frame!

Then have another spray bottle with 3 drops of baby shampoo in it. 
I also have a 3m squeegee with soft cloth edges. (Works a lot better than what is provided) 
Use good lighting, Clean your hands. And I continuously spray my fingers with the spray bottle and spray the crap out of the piece your putting on. 
Position the piece. And start squeegeeing the center, and work your way out. Pushing the water out. (Make sure to get the water away from where you just worked, it sometimes gets back under the piece of film)
The first couple might be a little difficult, but it gets easy. 
Make sure to have good lighting, and check your work during and after each piece to make sure there isn’t soap and water stuck under the piece. 
Patients is key, as someone else said. Walk away and take a break when needed. 

The only time I’ve ever had issues, is when ride wrap sent me the wrong kit for my bike. Most of the pieces worked. But for the life of me couldn’t figure out where some of them went. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Well I've had 500miles on the bike now and it does everything as advertised, and more, I've had a Jedi and a Zerorde, this is better than both,(G2 was top heavy and would eat into your calves!, Jedi got unpredictable in tight turns) this is an amazing trail machine when you want that, but when you want it to be an enduro bike the fork is the only limitation.

I'm 165lb, and on my Large I run 195psi the rear, 90psi in the Lyrik; 5'11'' on a good day, for a trail bike where I normally ride chunky stuff around Donnor Summit (home) it works well, for enduro racing or more high speed "socal" trails I'd want an XL.

Shot some clips on my favorite SF Bay Area DH trail on a 95* day, no smoke though...


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This was NOT my experience with either bike. I don't know how it would even be possible to apply a tailored kit in 2-3 hours. I bet the RideWrap folks take longer, and they have undoubtedly applied hundreds of kits.
> 
> Each of my bikes took me 2-3 days. I was so frustrated at times that I would step back and scream as loud as I could. I think my neighbours may have thought I was being murdered in my kitchen.
> 
> ...


In all fairness I've had a good amount of previous experience with appliqués. I worked in body shops back in the days of vinyl woodgrain. I've applied woodgrain to many cars and also have done entire cars. With wood grain you also need to match the grain pattern when applying. I couldn't imagine doing this in my kitchen due to the mess it creates. When I do one of these the floor of my garage gets pretty sloppy with soapy water. You need to get and keep the frame and wrap wet enough that it almost seems like it won't stick and slides easily on the frame so you can orient it properly. I wonder what a shop charges for wrapping a bike. I personally wouldn't do it for less then $150-200.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

dhbike8 said:


> Well I've had 500miles on the bike now and it does everything as advertised, and more, I've had a Jedi and a Zerorde, this is better than both,(G2 was top heavy and would eat into your calves!, Jedi got unpredictable in tight turns) this is an amazing trail machine when you want that, but when you want it to be an enduro bike the fork is the only limitation.
> 
> I'm 165lb, and on my Large I run 195psi the rear, 90psi in the Lyrik; 5'11'' on a good day, for a trail bike where I normally ride chunky stuff around Donnor Summit (home) it works well, for enduro racing or more high speed "socal" trails I'd want an XL.
> 
> Shot some clips on my favorite SF Bay Area DH trail on a 95* day, no smoke though...


Nice. Are you running the DPX2 in the back? Your rear PSI seems higher than most folks seem to prefer. I'm roughly at PSI ~ rider weight, and others go even a little below that. Have you messed around with the pressure much?


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

*Thoughts on my chain length/tension please*

Just setting up my druid and trying to get away with 126 link standard chain, if anyone could comment/compare to their set up, for info my frame is large and driveline is 32 - 10-50 AXS.
Have only done a driveway and in stand test and seems ok.
Also does the tension on the lower guide/pulley look ok.
thought is if it rides fine just leave it or should I add links/tension etc to possibly improve shifting, I know I need to get out there and shred to start getting a feel for it, haven't done full compression test either to make sure there is enough slack, so I should do that too.
I have watched the forbidden tech videos and contacted them regarding this but really wanted some real world comparisons also. see pics in 10 and 50 gear.
cheers for any advice


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

4vdean said:


> Just setting up my druid and trying to get away with 126 link standard chain, if anyone could comment/compare to their set up, for info my frame is large and driveline is 32 - 10-50 AXS.
> Have only done a driveway and in stand test and seems ok.
> Also does the tension on the lower guide/pulley look ok.
> thought is if it rides fine just leave it or should I add links/tension etc to possibly improve shifting, I know I need to get out there and shred to start getting a feel for it, haven't done full compression test either to make sure there is enough slack, so I should do that too.
> ...


Frame size is a relevant factor here. The chainstays get longer as sizes go up. From Forbidden's FAQ, based on 32t chainring, 50-52t cassette:

Small---126
Medium---128
Large---130
XL---132

Test your chain length by pulling you shock and sagging the suspension to full travel in the rear while in the 50t cog. You will know for sure.

Just eyeballing your lower guide, it looks like you have it rotated all the way counter clockwise. I believe there is guidance on their website that shows the it clocked a bit more, where the lower left bolt is in the middle of the e13 logo.

also, pay attention to how they set B tension.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

4vdean said:


> Just setting up my druid and trying to get away with 126 link standard chain, if anyone could comment/compare to their set up, for info my frame is large and driveline is 32 - 10-50 AXS.
> Have only done a driveway and in stand test and seems ok.
> Also does the tension on the lower guide/pulley look ok.
> thought is if it rides fine just leave it or should I add links/tension etc to possibly improve shifting, I know I need to get out there and shred to start getting a feel for it, haven't done full compression test either to make sure there is enough slack, so I should do that too.
> ...


I'm running 2 links less than suggested on my medium, but I'm also running the lower guide in the loosest position. This way I can get rid of pretty well all drive train noise and I don't have issues at full compression.
I think the large normally has 130 links? It's been a while since I've had a look on website. Either way in my experience you can get away with 2links less. Can't really comment on long terms issues with it though


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

4vdean said:


> Just setting up my druid and trying to get away with 126 link standard chain, if anyone could comment/compare to their set up, for info my frame is large and driveline is 32 - 10-50 AXS.
> Have only done a driveway and in stand test and seems ok.
> Also does the tension on the lower guide/pulley look ok.
> thought is if it rides fine just leave it or should I add links/tension etc to possibly improve shifting, I know I need to get out there and shred to start getting a feel for it, haven't done full compression test either to make sure there is enough slack, so I should do that too.
> ...


I'm running a 30t 10-50 AXS system on my large with no added links to the XX1 chain, works just fine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Has anyone ever heard of Ohlin's selling a ttx22 210x60mm? I've never heard of this size. There is a ebay ad selling one for a ridiculous to good to be true price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlins-TTX...263043?hash=item421dd3d383:g:JQ8AAOSwFIVex4K4


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## blinkie14 (Nov 23, 2005)

seems to be same seller

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2704430/

might be a modified shock, if in doubt ask


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## 7HVN (Jun 25, 2004)

Norcal/BayArea riders?

Anybody have a medium or large Druid that they wouldn’t mind me throwing a leg over?
I can offer beer of choice and a large Wreckoning or YT Decoy to try out. 


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

jpec29 said:


> Has anyone ever heard of Ohlin's selling a ttx22 210x60mm? I've never heard of this size. There is a ebay ad selling one for a ridiculous to good to be true price.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlins-TTX...263043?hash=item421dd3d383:g:JQ8AAOSwFIVex4K4


there is more to swapping out a shock than having an eye to eye and stroke length that will fit.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

tdc_worm said:


> there is more to swapping out a shock than having an eye to eye and stroke length that will fit.


Not sure what your hinting at? TTX not physically fit XL frame?


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> I'm running a 30t 10-50 AXS system on my large with no added links to the XX1 chain, works just fine.


OK I did the full compression test, 126link standard xo1 chain 32t 10-50 think I'm pushing the limits (see pic), did my first ride today but didn't use the 50 much as was a bit concerned, will probably add a few links,in saying that shifting was flawless..............i should adjust the tensioner as well, it was on minimum tension as per previous pics/comments which seemed ok but in the 50 at full squish its doing nothing, just like the upper derailleur pulley that's doing nothing in this pic as well LOL

I'll post first ride impression shortly as well


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

4vdean said:


> OK I did the full compression test, 126link standard xo1 chain 32t 10-50 think I'm pushing the limits (see pic), did my first ride today but didn't use the 50 much as was a bit concerned, will probably add a few links,in saying that shifting was flawless..............i should adjust the tensioner as well, it was on minimum tension as per previous pics/comments which seemed ok but in the 50 at full squish its doing nothing, just like the upper derailleur pulley that's doing nothing in this pic as well LOL
> 
> I'll post first ride impression shortly as well


Oh wow, never thought to do that. On the flip side, when will you ever fully compress in Eagle gear? That'd be one gnarly uphill or an inappropriate gear for downhill.

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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

jpec29 said:


> Not sure what your hinting at? TTX not physically fit XL frame?


Out of the 11 DPX2 that could physically fit (210x50-60) on PB's marketplace, 8 of them had legible Tune ID codes. All 8 of those tunes were different as noted below, and all are different than the Druid's base tune.

D4TX
DWB9
DLGM
DYD2
DNDJ
DNDH
DWRR
DM9Y

The point is: based on the the kinematics of the suspension, Fox provides a specific tune (i.e. valving) for the frame builder. Physically fitting does not always translate to performance compatibility. You may gain 10mm of travel but lose in damping performance.

I think this is one of the major mistakes people make when upgrading shocks....they buy an off the shelf unit with a tune that is not optimized for their frame. To take it a step farther, having the shock custom tuned not only takes in to account the frame, it furthers the performance by accounting for the rider.


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## Alanc12 (Jun 16, 2020)

4vdean said:


> OK I did the full compression test, 126link standard xo1 chain 32t 10-50 think I'm pushing the limits (see pic), did my first ride today but didn't use the 50 much as was a bit concerned, will probably add a few links,in saying that shifting was flawless..............i should adjust the tensioner as well, it was on minimum tension as per previous pics/comments which seemed ok but in the 50 at full squish its doing nothing, just like the upper derailleur pulley that's doing nothing in this pic as well LOL
> 
> I'll post first ride impression shortly as well


Did you let air out of shock or remove shock. The suspension will move more than the shock allows, that's why I ask. Also would be a rear occasion to go full compression in 50t. But yea that's tight


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Yeah that was with shock installed and let all air out.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

hbar said:


> Nice. Are you running the DPX2 in the back? Your rear PSI seems higher than most folks seem to prefer. I'm roughly at PSI ~ rider weight, and others go even a little below that. Have you messed around with the pressure much?


I have, I'm usually a guy who runs an over-damped shock, but on this bike I find myself running the DPX2 open but for 1 or 2 clicks of rebound, @ ~ 25% sag, there are a few awkward g-outs on my rides that caused harsh-clacking-bottom-outs, so I tuned them out... Gas to Flat!


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

parkerross said:


> What length are you running your Mezzer mine is currently set at 160? I have my Mezzer from my Wreckoning and am planning to switch it over to my new to me druid with my 11-6. What settings are you running? How big are you? I'm 220 lbs.
> 
> thanks in advance


Im interested in hearing your input on the druid vs your wreckoning.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

parkerross said:


> What length are you running the mezzer. I'm putting my mezzer from my wreck on my druid but it currently set at 160 and 574 a2c so 3mm over forbiddens reccomendation.
> 
> Also whats your weight and what settings are you running on your mezzer?


I'm 205lb without gear and I was running it @150 with 66psi main and 97psi IRT hi speed 3clicks from closed, low speed 5clicks from closed, rebound 4ckicks Frm closed, 
The Mezzer is a great fork! And it works great at 150 on this bike!

I too had a wrecker, and got rid of it earlier this season.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## poikniok (Mar 29, 2020)

Could anybody that has ordered a Druid in the USA directly through Forbidden tell me if you had to pay any import tariffs / fees or state taxes?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

poikniok said:


> Could anybody that has ordered a Druid in the USA directly through Forbidden tell me if you had to pay any import tariffs / fees or state taxes?


I paid $200-$300 range, can't remember exact amount


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Question - has anyone in Canada gone the 'moto foam' route to protect their downtube and if so can you tell me where you bought it?

Feeling lucky - ordered a Druid a few days ago and now I see their Canadian prices have jumped by ~ 10%.


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## Buzz (Jan 15, 2004)

tdc_worm said:


> Out of the 11 DPX2 that could physically fit (210x50-60) on PB's marketplace, 8 of them had legible Tune ID codes. All 8 of those tunes were different as noted below, and all are different than the Druid's base tune.
> 
> D4TX
> DWB9
> ...


I can vouch for this first hand. My wife bought a Druid earlier this year. The stock tune on the DPX2 has far too much rebound and compression dampening for lighter riders. Forbidden is aware of this, and has made the stock tune on all the small frames much lighter going forward. I got this lighter tune information from them, and had her DPX2 re-tuned by FOX. It is much better now, but she is still on the far end of the tuning scale (1 click of HSR from full fast and 2 clicks of LSC from full open). If you are on the extreme ends of sizing (XL or S) you will likely always benefit from having your shock custom tuned.
Additionally, she has no volume spacers and runs 90-100psi to achieve the reccommended 35% sag for a ~120lb rider.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Just found out my frame which was supposed to arrive this week is delayed at port until probably December. The curse of 2020. Wahhh.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

In a reply to an Instagram comment about the availability of the Pagan, Forbidden said it will be available "after the holidays". No x-mas presents for the wife this year, need to save up.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

pinkrobe said:


> No x-mas presents for the wife this year, need to save up.


Big risk = big reward


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

jpec29 said:


> Has anyone ever heard of Ohlin's selling a ttx22 210x60mm? I've never heard of this size. There is a ebay ad selling one for a ridiculous to good to be true price.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ohlins-TTX...263043?hash=item421dd3d383:g:JQ8AAOSwFIVex4K4


I bought an Ohlins TTX22m from this guy this spring.

He said he was shipping from California, but it actually came from Taiwan.

The code on the shock indicated that it was from some Specialized bike, but he claimed that it had been rebuilt to 210x55 and valved M/M. This did check out, at least size wise.

The TTX22m shock is amazing on the Druid- however the M/M tune is too heavy and I am running it at 0 clicks LSR (which is fine) and 0 clicks LSC which seems a bit too heavy for this bike. I'll probably have it retuned when I have it serviced.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

northerngnar said:


> I bought an Ohlins TTX22m from this guy this spring.
> 
> He said he was shipping from California, but it actually came from Taiwan.
> 
> ...


Don't tell me you've never heard of the city of California in Taiwan!? It's amazing there.


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## ShredBikes (Nov 7, 2020)

parkerross said:


> What length are you running the mezzer. I'm putting my mezzer from my wreck on my druid but it currently set at 160 and 574 a2c so 3mm over forbiddens reccomendation.
> 
> Also whats your weight and what settings are you running on your mezzer?


I too would like to hear about your opinion on the Wreckoning compared to the Druid.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

ShredBikes said:


> I too would like to hear about your opinion on the Wreckoning compared to the Druid.


I was running a Wreckoning last season and part of this season along side my Druid.

They are completely different bikes. ( I would compare the Druid to the Offering and Following) (which I also owned, and replaced with the Druid) 
The only thing the Druid and Wreckoning have in common is maybe some of the playfulness.

If your looking for a Big bike that is playful and fun to ride. The Wreckoning is an awesome option. (I did replace the Wreckoning with a spesh enduro though)

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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

I'm glad you're not the only one that views the Druid as different than a big bike. It's really a trail and all mountain bike. It can handle hearty terrain sure, but it just doesn't feel the same as long travel, slack monsters.

Also, this bike is not designed as such. It is a capable trail bike, that is a bit of a chameleon.

I haven't rode the new Wreck, but agree this bike is more in the vein of an Offering or Ripmo with capability with a 150 or 160 fork.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Yeah it seems like a lot of people get the druid as an enduro bike but its designed around 140/150mm forks, with only 130 in the rear. its not nearly as slack as a lot of the bikes out these days either so im not sure why. 
How did your wreckoning compare to the enduro? i loved mine but it was always just a bit too short.

I had been looking at a druid as a trail bike, to complement something bigger like a slayer, titan, or one.2, but i ended up going with a banshee prime as i couldn’t justify the additional 1300 bucks for the druid frame. maybe next year.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

MyDadSucks said:


> Yeah it seems like a lot of people get the druid as an enduro bike but its designed around 140/150mm forks, with only 130 in the rear. its not nearly as slack as a lot of the bikes out these days either so im not sure why.
> How did your wreckoning compare to the enduro? i loved mine but it was always just a bit too short.
> 
> I had been looking at a druid as a trail bike, to complement something bigger like a slayer, titan, or one.2, but i ended up going with a banshee prime as i couldn't justify the additional 1300 bucks for the druid frame. maybe next year.


I was between sizes on my Wreckoning, so in this case I sized up, and regretted it. 
The bike was fun, but a bit to big to throw around like I wanted to do with it.

That said, I went conservative on my enduro, and it fits well. It is smoother in the rough stuff than the wreck, but not as poppy and playful. 
But I knew that!

It is amazingly fast through the high speed gnar

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Have a Druid XT I got last July. The shifter just crapped out on me yesterday. Apparently there are mechanical issues with XT/XTR shifter with a small return spring breaking and shifting will just stop to varying degrees during a ride. Some riders reported being on their third replacement already. Just a heads up in case any of you have this issue pop up.

I’m contacting Shimano on Monday to see what the fix is. I’m certainly not riding without a solution vs a simple replacement. Likely they have a fix by now, but we’ll see.

Check out the forum: Shimano XTR M9100 shifters keep breaking--no downshift intermittently


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

Energ8t said:


> Have a Druid XT I got last July. The shifter just crapped out on me yesterday. Apparently there are mechanical issues with XT/XTR shifter with a small return spring breaking and shifting will just stop to varying degrees during a ride. Some riders reported being on their third replacement already. Just a heads up in case any of you have this issue pop up.
> 
> I'm contacting Shimano on Monday to see what the fix is. I'm certainly not riding without a solution vs a simple replacement. Likely they have a fix by now, but we'll see.
> 
> ...


The fix for just about anything Shimano is to replace. They don't make their shifters serviceable.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Rngspnr said:


> The fix for just about anything Shimano is to replace. They don't make their shifters serviceable.


Yes, exactly. That was apparent after opening up and inspecting; its def not serviceable. I was implying a sufficient fix on their side that's not simply a replacement shifter with the same exact faulty spring. Otherwise I'm just taking my chances on every ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Hey guy, I figured I would offer up my shock on here before posting it. I have a pretty much BRAND EXT Storia LOK V3 with only 5 ride on it. I used it on my 2020 Druid. Hands down the best coil shock....I think everyone already knows this. If you're interested, send me a pm.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Yes, exactly. That was apparent after opening up and inspecting; its def not serviceable. I was implying a sufficient fix on their side that's not simply a replacement shifter with the same exact faulty spring. Otherwise I'm just taking my chances on every ride.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good to know, mine is the same vintage, still working for now. I wonder if SLX and Deore have the same problem.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Kmag76 said:


> I was running a Wreckoning last season and part of this season along side my Druid.
> 
> They are completely different bikes. ( I would compare the Druid to the Offering and Following) (which I also owned, and replaced with the Druid)
> The only thing the Druid and Wreckoning have in common is maybe some of the playfulness.
> ...


man....sounds like you and I were shopping at the same shop, haha. I've owned a Following MB, Offering, and Wreck V1. I also own a new Enduro.

Of the lot, the Offering was the shortest lived (I keep a 2 bike quiver). The Wreck v1 is surprisingly close from a geo standpoint to the Druid. The added reach and chainstay length actually give the XL Druid 30mm more wheelbase in an XL. I'd actually say the two bikes are very similar...they actually have pretty similar leverage ratios. The one one caveat: Chainstay length on the Druid is longer on both the L and the XL (Which I ride). With the rearward axle movement, the CS length grows as the shock compresses. Manualing my Druid in technical/quick reaction situations can be a chore. My opinion is that there isn't a ton of separation between the Druid and Wreck v1. The 2020 Enduro is a DH bike in disguise, nothing playful about that bike in comparison.

I'd say that the Druid's rear punches well above it's weight. So much so, I've entertained the idea of short stroking the shock to knock it down to 120ish travel. it would eat the Offering's 140mm of travel for lunch, and feels on par with the Wreck in the rough...it just never hangs up.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Hey guy, I figured I would offer up my shock on here before posting it. I have a pretty much BRAND EXT Storia LOK V3 with only 5 ride on it. I used it on my 2020 Druid. Hands down the best coil shock....I think everyone already knows this. If you're interested, send me a pm.


What size?


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Just finished building my Druid... bought the frame "lightly used" off Pinkbike, and have been sourcing parts as I can find them for the last month. I'm anxious to get this thing on the trails tomorrow afternoon (I live outside Boulder, CO).

One thing I may end up changing is the rear shock spring weight, I went with 450# because I was right between that and 400# (I weigh ~170 lbs), and they didn't have the lighter weight spring in stock when I ordered. I guess I'll find out how it rides tomorrow!


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

smmokan said:


> Just finished building my Druid... bought the frame "lightly used" off Pinkbike, and have been sourcing parts as I can find them for the last month. I'm anxious to get this thing on the trails tomorrow afternoon (I live outside Boulder, CO).
> 
> One thing I may end up changing is the rear shock spring weight, I went with 450# because I was right between that and 400# (I weigh ~170 lbs), and they didn't have the lighter weight spring in stock when I ordered. I guess I'll find out how it rides tomorrow!
> 
> View attachment 1376737


Please give review on CC coil interested in getting one.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## konamann (Oct 26, 2020)

26T chainring on Druid?

Hey guys,
Does anyone have experience with 26T chainrings on the Forbidden Druid?

I just changed my chainring from 30T to 26T (living in the Alps with steep roads uphill, PCL and ACL reconstruction in my right knee) and now i have a creaking sound when there is power on the pedal.

The WolfTooth 26T steel chainring I mounted was on my Patrol before running 11x Sram without problems.

Either the chainring does not go well with my X01 Eagle 12x or its the Druid missing chain wrap on the smaller chainring.

Any opinions on that?

Cheers, Andy


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Any rumors of a updated Druid? Really interested in this bike but reading through here and seeing people being told to sand the paint on their frames gives me bad feels :\


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Any rumors of a updated Druid? Really interested in this bike but reading through here and seeing people being told to sand the paint on their frames gives me bad feels :\


I had to do that, and I think current and future bikes won't have to, according to Forbidden. I think this is an advantage of a smaller company--based on feedback, they can change/improve their methods faster than a bigger company, if they are willing to (and they seem to be). In this case, they improved their masking process so the paint is less likely to intrude on the bearing area. Also, they sent me modified dust caps that would also fix the problem.

If that is your only worry, I wouldn't hesitate to buy the bike--it's really fun.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

So i bought a new druid a few weeks ago, i had the creaking issues they send me some new washer/spacer that fixed the issues. they no longer have the shoulder that sits on the painted surface. Mine was resolved even without the new washers with some heavy grease on that "shoulder" portion which im sure with time would come back. They had the washers to me in about 3 days after giving them in the info they needed.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> Good to know, mine is the same vintage, still working for now. I wonder if SLX and Deore have the same problem.


Haven't heard any reported issues with SLX, not sure about Deore either. Most XT/XTR reported. I might just replace with an SLX temporarily since it's cheap and possibly not affected. Mums the word from Shimano on this one so far.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Thats good to know^

Im doing a 24 hour demo of a large druid right now.

Bike is pretty impressive. Swapped over to my bar/grips/saddle for some rides tomorrow.

Also threw the DSD runt off my bike into the 150 lyrik on it. Excited to get deeper into it tomorrow...


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

dhbike8 said:


> What size?


210x55, tuned for the druid. Weight 175. Spring 375/400


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## justinbieber#1fan (Oct 2, 2019)

jpec29 said:


> Please give review on CC coil interested in getting one.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


been running the druid with a CC IL Coil for 5 months, putting a coil on is probably the best thing you can do for the bike. have loads more grip, climbs exactly the same, and you're able to use more of the travel. I'm 170lbs, ride aggressively, tried 450lbs spring was too stiff, switched to 425 and its money


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

justinbieber#1fan said:


> been running the druid with a CC IL Coil for 5 months, putting a coil on is probably the best thing you can do for the bike. have loads more grip, climbs exactly the same, and you're able to use more of the travel. I'm 170lbs, ride aggressively, tried 450lbs spring was too stiff, switched to 425 and its money


I'm 185 out of the shower. 450 spring on my 11-6. Wish I could try a 425 for free. I may just buy one.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Hey all, so I demo'd a large and ran 15mm of spacers under the stem with a 35mm riser bar .

The medium is prolly too small stack wise right?

I'm a little under 5'10 so right on the border...

Is it true the ziggy is like "going down half a size"?

Thanks


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm 185 out of the shower. 450 spring on my 11-6. Wish I could try a 425 for free. I may just buy one.


Maybe look into a sprindex. Not 100% if it will fit the 11.6 
But that would definitely be the way to go.

I was lucky enough to try out a few springs on my Druid. They were all good, but When you get the right spring rate, the rear end is unbelievably good! 
Go have a look at least.

One of my storia's spring rates are a bit off. So I think I'm gonna go that way.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm 185 out of the shower. 450 spring on my 11-6. Wish I could try a 425 for free. I may just buy one.


I can let you try a little used Push 425 with 55mm stroke for $30 US and if you like it and want to run with it you can keep it for another $30.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

erdawe said:


> I can let you try a little used Push 425 with 55mm stroke for $30 US and if you like it and want to run with it you can keep it for another $30.


Thanks. Please pardon my ignorance but is the stroke of my current spring also 55mm? If so, will sending the spring to Canada be a pain in the ass?


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks. Please pardon my ignorance but is the stroke of my current spring also 55mm? If so, will sending the spring to Canada be a pain in the ass?


You're fine, your shock is 55mm because the Druid runs 210x55mm. The 210 is the eye to eye. Push also makes 65mm springs.
I will PM you, Canada prices gone up in a decade from the big 3, just comparison shopped prices to AB.


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## Louella (Jul 20, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Any rumors of a updated Druid? Really interested in this bike but reading through here and seeing people being told to sand the paint on their frames gives me bad feels :\


_Hey Lou from Forbidden here. On a very limited number of recently manufactured frames, we have discovered that there has been excess paint on the rear triangle around the back of the bearing bores. This excess paint can sometimes contact the spacer flange in the linkage and in-turn create a creaking sound and sub-optimal suspension performance. We have since addressed our manufacturing process to prevent this from happening in the future and for affected frames that are already in the wild, we have developed new flangeless spacers that will completely alleviate the issue.

I hope this helps the decision making for you!_


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Louella said:


> _Hey Lou from Forbidden here. On a very limited number of recently manufactured frames, we have discovered that there has been excess paint on the rear triangle around the back of the bearing bores. This excess paint can sometimes contact the spacer flange in the linkage and in-turn create a creaking sound and sub-optimal suspension performance. We have since addressed our manufacturing process to prevent this from happening in the future and for affected frames that are already in the wild, we have developed new flangeless spacers that will completely alleviate the issue.
> 
> I hope this helps the decision making for you!_


How do we get the new spacers if I have the creaking?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Any rumors of a updated Druid? Really interested in this bike but reading through here and seeing people being told to sand the paint on their frames gives me bad feels :\


Your biggest worry should be finding one in stock anywhere haha it's an agonizing wait.


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## Louella (Jul 20, 2020)

alan1 said:


> How do we get the new spacers if I have the creaking?


Hi Alan please email us [email protected] so we can either sort you out or direct you where to go!


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## Louella (Jul 20, 2020)

Louella said:


> Hi Alan please email us [email protected] so we can either sort you out or direct you where to go!


Sorry that's [email protected]


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Looks like maybe lewis buchanan posted his new longer travel forbidden on instagram? looks fairly similar, but definitely shorter head tube length, maybe steeper seat angle and i would imagine slacker head angle but hard to tell from the photo. Just speculation but it's the black one i think.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CH0eGP0JRpJ/


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Louella said:


> Sorry that's [email protected]


Cheers.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Hey all, I'm considering a Druid for my next bike, as always I have a few questions. I'm coming off a Commencal Meta AM 29er, I think something in a the 130-140mm travel range would better suit my riding. Ideally I want to use most of the parts from Meta to build a new bike. This would include my Lyrik. On an XL frame how long of a steerer tube do folks usually have, the Meta has a shorter head tube and I want to be sure my fork will fit. Is anybody running 11 speed drivetrains with a 42 tooth cassette, you could run a standard length chain I'm assuming. Lastly, has anyone had experience using a Super Deluxe air shock?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

MyDadSucks said:


> Looks like maybe lewis buchanan posted his new longer travel forbidden on instagram? looks fairly similar, but definitely shorter head tube length, maybe steeper seat angle and i would imagine slacker head angle but hard to tell from the photo. Just speculation but it's the black one i think.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CH0eGP0JRpJ/


Yup, that's the one.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

ALS650L said:


> Hey all, I'm considering a Druid for my next bike, as always I have a few questions. I'm coming off a Commencal Meta AM 29er, I think something in a the 130-140mm travel range would better suit my riding. Ideally I want to use most of the parts from Meta to build a new bike. This would include my Lyrik. On an XL frame how long of a steerer tube do folks usually have, the Meta has a shorter head tube and I want to be sure my fork will fit. Is anybody running 11 speed drivetrains with a 42 tooth cassette, you could run a standard length chain I'm assuming. Lastly, has anyone had experience using a Super Deluxe air shock?


The headtube measurements are on their site. I would just compare it to your Meta size. They have taller head tubes depending on the size. I used the 38 off of my SB150 it was barely long enough.

You would be close with an XL and 11 speed drivetrain. I have a large with Eagle and i am running 2 links extra could probably get away with a long 126 link chain.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

erdawe said:


> You're fine, your shock is 55mm because the Druid runs 210x55mm. The 210 is the eye to eye. Push also makes 65mm springs.
> I will PM you, Canada prices gone up in a decade from the big 3, just comparison shopped prices to AB.


All - I just want to do a quick shout out to this gentleman. More to follow but it suffices to say at this point that his good nature and really good intentions will soon, hopefully, benefit me significantly, in my never ending pursuit of mtb perfection.

Thank you Sir, and to all my fellow Druid riders - don't ever lose sight of how truly fortunate we all are.


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## splitlit (Sep 25, 2017)

Looking at one of these for a new bike, did the prices for full builds just go up $600-750? Or am I losing my mind.


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

splitlit said:


> Looking at one of these for a new bike, did the prices for full builds just go up $600-750? Or am I losing my mind.


nah you're correct lol. I know the price of the frames increased from 3099 to 3250 as well.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

tkrumroy said:


> nah you're correct lol. I know the price of the frames increased from 3099 to 3250 as well.


Really glad I snuck in my order before the price increase.


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## splitlit (Sep 25, 2017)

Did any of the components change? I don't see much, if any difference on the XT build.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

splitlit said:


> Did any of the components change? I don't see much, if any difference on the XT build.


There is probably no change to the parts spec. The unfortunate reality is that almost all bike manufacturers will be raising their prices for 2021 models if they haven't done so already. I know Specialized and Trek are bumping wholesale pricing by up to 10% for new bikes, mostly because their costs have increased. #thankscovid


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

splitlit said:


> Did any of the components change? I don't see much, if any difference on the XT build.


Confirmed - no changes. These are their 2021 models.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

hopefully well be seeing more of the pagan soon, can't wait to see the geo and possibly even buy it


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Just wanna say after taking apart my new druid frame to ride wrap it and install the ziggy im really appreciative of the technical docs on their website. Great stuff.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Kinda dumb question. Whats the correct way to add links to a new chain? Never added links only removed them. Two quick links?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

*Druid for sale*

Hey guys, I'm selling my Druid frame and thought i should put it out to the forum.

its a fully ride wrapped xl mr. brownstone. Ive ridden it for about 3 months with no major crashes. There are no scratches or chips except for a few small scratches that came on the frame from shop (they are right next to the axle). I'm sad to see it go, but i need more travel for the trails that i ride.
I'm asking 2900 for the frame and dpx2. I am also offering a custom tuned bomber cr and push 325 spring for 300 (the bomber is tuned for someone weighing in the 130-140lbs range)

you can email me @ [email protected] or text me @ 3605311870.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jpec29 said:


> Kinda dumb question. Whats the correct way to add links to a new chain? Never added links only removed them. Two quick links?


I bought 2 full chains and spaced the quick links evenly apart. Probably overkill but whatever.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Hey guys, I'm selling my Druid frame and thought i should put it out to the forum.
> 
> its a fully ride wrapped xl mr. brownstone. Ive ridden it for about 3 months with no major crashes. There are no scratches or chips except for a few small scratches that came on the frame from shop (they are right next to the axle). I'm sad to see it go, but i need more travel for the trails that i ride.
> I'm asking 2900 for the frame and dpx2. I am also offering a custom tuned bomber cr and push 325 spring for 300 (the bomber is tuned for someone weighing in the 130-140lbs range)
> ...


Heresy.

You shalt be sacrificed in orthodox Druid tradition.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Of course the sacrifices.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Of course the sacrifices.


Also, I think you may have to change your user name. Hopefully there are no tats. Lol!


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Also, I think you may have to change your user name. Hopefully there are no tats. Lol!


Maybe, i still am planning on getting the pagan when it comes out.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Maybe, i still am planning on getting the pagan when it comes out.


Okay. We can put the sacrifice on hold temporarily 

On a different note, just to make sure there are no typos, the frame is an XL and the shock is custom tuned to 130-140 pounds? That may be a bit of a rare combo. Nonetheless, I will keep my eyes open for any takers in my neck of the woods and will let you know if I find anyone.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Okay. We can put the sacrifice on hold temporarily
> 
> On a different note, just to make sure there are no typos, the frame is an XL and the shock is custom tuned to 130-140 pounds? That may be a bit of a rare combo. Nonetheless, I will keep my eyes open for any takers in my neck of the woods and will let you know if I find anyone.


Thanks, I'm 6'1" and weigh 140, thus the weird combo.

honestly I'm trying to sell the shock so if anyone wants a light tuned coil for they're Druid, i have one.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> Hey guys, I'm selling my Druid frame and thought i should put it out to the forum.
> 
> its a fully ride wrapped xl mr. brownstone. Ive ridden it for about 3 months with no major crashes. There are no scratches or chips except for a few small scratches that came on the frame from shop (they are right next to the axle). I'm sad to see it go, but i need more travel for the trails that i ride.
> I'm asking 2900 for the frame and dpx2. I am also offering a custom tuned bomber cr and push 325 spring for 300 (the bomber is tuned for someone weighing in the 130-140lbs range)
> ...


You in the PNW? With a 360 # i'm guessing so. 
Curious what you're riding here that doesn't like the druid. 
I've been waiting for the longer travel version as well, but debated an XL druid.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> You in the PNW? With a 360 # i'm guessing so.
> Curious what you're riding here that doesn't like the druid.
> I've been waiting for the longer travel version as well, but debated an XL druid.


Trying to set Kom's at dry hill and the zoo trails. It doesn't feel under shocked just a Bit under forked. Essentially double black diamond kom hunting and racing.


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## Skeptastic (Mar 31, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Also, I think you may have to change your user name. Hopefully there are no tats. Lol!


Hahaha!!!


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Anybody have a ziggy link that they’re willing to part with? If so, please PM me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JRA Dan (Dec 1, 2020)

I'm hoping to get a bit of ride info on the druid that has been evading me. I've read or watched every review more than once, been through this forum and others. All in all am pretty sold on the Druid for my next bike. It's that or a SC Hightower.

I currently ride a 2018 Commencal Meta TR 27.5". I want to retain as much of it's playful nature as possible. This bike has been amazing for 70% of my riding, but I'm hoping for something that can take on bigger hits and chunkier terrain a little smoother. From what I can tell Druid will handle that end of the spectrum very well, I'm just not confident it will be a fun riding on some of the smoother rolling terrain in the area. I like to hop over logs and rocks on flat ground and throw the back end around in tight rocky corners.

From what I gather the SC Hightower is a Goldilocks bike that is going to retain most of the play of my current bike but help me feel a little more comfortable opening things up on our very rocky local descents.
Is the Druid a Goldilocks bike that falls in the middle with the Hightower or is it the unicorn some claim it to be allowing to feel Evil Calling playful on slow mellow trails and borderline racer confident on chunky descents?

Thank you.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

So my Druid which was supposed to arrive first week of November is not even expected to show up til mid December now. Gotta say guys, I am losing it a bit. At this point I think I may just hold off and see when that new long travel bike shows up. Staring at the pile of parts for the bike that has been in my garage is sure getting old. Somebody hold me.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> So my Druid which was supposed to arrive first week of November is not even expected to show up til mid December now. Gotta say guys, I am losing it a bit. At this point I think I may just hold off and see when that new long travel bike shows up. Staring at the pile of parts for the bike that has been in my garage is sure getting old. Somebody hold me.


Dude I can't even ride my bike because it's impossible to find Shimano 4 piston brake pads for my bike. Supply line's dry as desert


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Dude I can't even ride my bike because it's impossible to find Shimano 4 piston brake pads for my bike. Supply line's dry as desert


I stocked up on extra pads + tires mid summer when I got the chance. My problem now is I have no frame to put them on haha bike has apparently been sitting at the port awaiting clearance. Bout ready to go do a heist just to get the thing.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jpec29 said:


> Dude I can't even ride my bike because it's impossible to find Shimano 4 piston brake pads for my bike. Supply line's dry as desert


Thanks for the heads up, I just got an extra set of pads from the local bike shop: www.projectbikebend.com
You could call and see if they'll ship.

Druid XT BR-M8120 (N04C) metallic









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Dude I can't even ride my bike because it's impossible to find Shimano 4 piston brake pads for my bike. Supply line's dry as desert


See you wouldn't have this problem if you ran the Hayes dominions.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

jpec29 said:


> Dude I can't even ride my bike because it's impossible to find Shimano 4 piston brake pads for my bike. Supply line's dry as desert


Have you checked TruckerCo on eBay? That's where I get all mine, and they've always had stock available.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Took delivery of a sz L druid with Ziggy Link today. Building it up with Fox 36, dhx2, shimano xt, i9 hubs + stem....


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## Resurgence (Jun 4, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Took delivery of a sz L druid with Ziggy Link today. Building it up with Fox 36, dhx2, shimano xt, i9 hubs + stem.... Also just going to point out that the new Forbidden is called the "Dreadnought" not the Pagan as has been suggested...


Interesting
https://uspto.report/TM/88672585


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Wow. Nice find guys. Not so sure about the name though. Doesn't seem to fit the pattern.

Forbidden...Druid...Dreadnought...:skep:

Maybe Specialized beat Forbidden in the race to the trademark office on "Pagan", "Heathen" and "Heresy"...:madman:

That said, I guess we can look forward to this being a beast. In addition to the battleship meaning, see alternative meaning 2b. below:









There's also this from Wikipedia:*
HMS Dreadnought was a Royal Navy battleshipthat revolutionised naval power. The name of the ship, and the class of battleships named after her, means "fear nothing".*​
Behold the mighty Dreadnought.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Took delivery of a sz L druid with Ziggy Link today. Building it up with Fox 36, dhx2, shimano xt, i9 hubs + stem.... Also just going to point out that the new Forbidden is called the "Dreadnought" not the Pagan as has been suggested...


Damn, how long did you have to wait for yours to show? My frame and ziggy link have been 2 months now since I ordered it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Damn, how long did you have to wait for yours to show? My frame and ziggy link have been 2 months now since I ordered it.


I waited 8 weeks for my fat bikes to arrive. 6 weeks over what was promised. I was getting ready to give up and then voila. I think these days it's a victory IF **** arrives. Not WHEN it arrives.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I waited 8 weeks for my fat bikes to arrive. 6 weeks over what was promised. I was getting ready to give up and then voila. I think these days it's a victory IF **** arrives. Not WHEN it arrives.


I am not a very patient person when it comes to certain things haha. My EXT Storia is going to be here this week and that will be the last part for the pile. If the frame doesn't show before christmas I'm going to be very sad.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Took delivery of a sz L druid with Ziggy Link today. Building it up with Fox 36, dhx2, shimano xt, i9 hubs + stem.... Also just going to point out that the new Forbidden is called the "Dreadnought" not the Pagan as has been suggested...


Bah! I'm going to get some custom "Pagan" stickers made in that case. That said, Dreadnought lends itself to good nicknames for the bike, like "Naughty" or "Dwead Piwate Woberts".


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> Damn, how long did you have to wait for yours to show? My frame and ziggy link have been 2 months now since I ordered it.


pretty lucky actually, I am from New Zealand, and supported by our distributor here in NZ, and they got one sent to me direct from Taiwan. so while it was meant to arrive in November (ordered in October) im happy a an extra 2 weeks for a sick bike! All I am waiting for now is my Cane Creek IPA Headset and BB


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> pretty lucky actually, I am from New Zealand, and supported by our distributor here in NZ, and they got one ent to me direct from Taiwan. so while it was meant to arrive in November (ordered in October) im happy a an extra 2 weeks for a sick bike! All I am waiting for now is my Cane Creek IPA Headset and BB


I ordered mine beginning of October, was supposed to arrive first week of November, and now who knows. Fingers crossed it shows soon like yours did.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

The Lewis Buchanan/Forbidden bikes marriage is no more...

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/lewis-buchanan-parts-way-with-forbidden-as-a-frame-sponsor-for-2021.html

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> I ordered mine beginning of October, was supposed to arrive first week of November, and now who knows. Fingers crossed it shows soon like yours did.


Mine left the factory in Taiwan on Monday 30th November, taiwan to NZ is pretty fast, especially on air freight. probably take a bit longer to you.

Has anyone on here vinyl wrapped their Druid? im seriously thinking of doing mine (I mean full colour change, not invisiframe or similar)


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Mine left the factory in Taiwan on Monday 30th November, taiwan to NZ is pretty fast, especially on air freight. probably take a bit longer to you.
> 
> Has anyone on here vinyl wrapped their Druid? im seriously thinking of doing mine


Like full wrap or just overlaying the lettering? Full wrap sounds intense and tricky. I've done letter overlays on my Revel Rail and it turned out great. Forbidden seems to be pretty open to giving graphics files for things. I emailed them to get the paint code for the Eggplant purple so I could color match my fork before the frame arrived.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> Like full wrap or just overlaying the lettering? Full wrap sounds intense and tricky. I've done letter overlays on my Revel Rail and it turned out great. Forbidden seems to be pretty open to giving graphics files for things. I emailed them to get the paint code for the Eggplant purple so I could color match my fork before the frame arrived.


Yeah, full wrap - I had originally ordered a cosmic eggplant also and when it became pretty clear I would be looking at Jan or Feb for that I said just give me whatever colour is the fastest! Ive ended up with a Mr Brownstone, and while the colour is okay its just not something im into. Im interesting in using a 3M GP281 Wrap which is holographic colour flip type thing. Be interested in seeing how the colour matched fork looks on a build to!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

incubus said:


> The Lewis Buchanan/Forbidden bikes marriage is no more...
> 
> https://m.pinkbike.com/news/lewis-buchanan-parts-way-with-forbidden-as-a-frame-sponsor-for-2021.html
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Saw that on his gram. I haven't got my sponsorship offer from Forbidden, but I'm sure it's coming soon...

On a slightly related note, what are the odds that the blurry bike in Pinkbike's Enduro shootout is the new Forbidden? Evil has a new rig on the way as well, so that might be it.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Saw that on his gram. I haven't got my sponsorship offer from Forbidden, but I'm sure it's coming soon...
> 
> On a slightly related note, what are the odds that the blurry bike in Pinkbike's Enduro shootout is the new Forbidden? Evil has a new rig on the way as well, so that might be it.


They said the blurry rig has 27.5 wheels so not a chance it is the new bike from Forbidden.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Yeah, full wrap - I had originally ordered a cosmic eggplant also and when it became pretty clear I would be looking at Jan or Feb for that I said just give me whatever colour is the fastest! Ive ended up with a Mr Brownstone, and while the colour is okay its just not something im into. Im interesting in using a 3M GP281 Wrap which is holographic colour flip type thing. Be interested in seeing how the colour matched fork looks on a build to!


Like this one..
https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/Biketreks,49031/setup,40238


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

*Broken Druid*

Rode my bike last Friday, no crashes, no audible impacts, was rocky trail, and no dropping loading bike problems. Went to ride today and found a huge impact crack and mark on my seat stay kinda where my foot rubs. How could I have impact damage like this without knowing it up high?? Looks like impact from bike falling which never happened. Contact local carbon repair place and Forbidden about replacement. Though I would share.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Rode my bike last Friday, no crashes, no audible impacts, was rocky trail, and no dropping loading bike problems. Went to ride today and found a huge impact crack and mark on my seat stay kinda where my foot rubs. How could I have impact damage like this without knowing it up high?? Looks like impact from bike falling which never happened. Contact local carbon repair place and Forbidden about replacement. Though I would share.


Someone else drop something on your bike or kick it? Is the carbon actually craked or is the paint just failing?


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

Double checked, crack and marks line up right where my foot rubs. Size 14 feet. Think it's possible my shoe hit it and broke it???


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Double checked, crack and marks line up right where my foot rubs. Size 14 feet. Think it's possible my shoe hit it and broke it???


I'd be impressed if so, but that looks like a direct strike right to the face of it. Anyone in your household who might have hit it and isn't owning up haha.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Someone else drop something on your bike or kick it? Is the carbon actually craked or is the paint just failing?


It's cracked. Right where my heel contacts it occasionally. Defiantly never dropped it or had any mishaps storing or transporting it. Just appeared out of nowhere, no mishaps riding it last time either. Thinking my heel contacted it hard on rocky trail? Sounds improbable, but lines up perfect. I would of known if rock hit it there.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> It's cracked. Right where my heel contacts it occasionally. Defiantly never dropped it or had any mishaps storing or transporting it. Just appeared out of nowhere, no mishaps riding it last time either. Thinking my heel contacted it hard on rocky trail? Sounds improbable, but lines up perfect. I would of known if rock hit it there.


Crazy impressive if that is the case. Feel like you would have heard or felt that if so.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Crazy impressive if that is the case. Feel like you would have heard or felt that if so.


Heel hit seat stay and chain stay right where marks are. Weird


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

It looks like there is a ding (or two) in the paint near the seatstay/chainstay junction, too.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Ouch! I've done stuff like that during rides and never noticed it. I had a bike with dents in the rims and fork legs 'cause the Conti Rubber Queen tire up front kept flipping rocks up into the wheel. I had a Titus that attracted rocks to the downtube like there was a black hole hidden in the frame. Bad luck. Hopefully, Forbidden can cut you a good deal on a rear end.



jpec29 said:


> Heel hit seat stay and chain stay right where marks are. Weird


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Ouch! I've done stuff like that during rides and never noticed it. I had a bike with dents in the rims and fork legs 'cause the Conti Rubber Queen tire up front kept flipping rocks up into the wheel. I had a Titus that attracted rocks to the downtube like there was a black hole hidden in the frame. Bad luck. Hopefully, Forbidden can cut you a good deal on a rear end.


Yea really weird. I've had bad luck with carbon. My last bike Trek Fuel 9.9 broke twice. Not worried bout price more concerned with availability. Biking only think that keeps me sane!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

So I was watching one of BCPOVs videos on his druid last night and something caught my eye in this scene. Can you see the wear on the front triangle inside the swingarm? What the hell is that, why is it there, and what causes it. That seems like an alarming amount of wear in a place like that...


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> So I was watching one of BCPOVs videos on his druid last night and something caught my eye in this scene. Can you see the wear on the front triangle inside the swingarm? What the hell is that, why is it there, and what causes it. That seems like an alarming amount of wear in a place like that...


Mine has paint missing there too

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Just for my own curiosity, who actually manufactures Forbiddens frames?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Just for my own curiosity, who actually manufactures Forbiddens frames?


https://m.pinkbike.com/news/review-forbiddens-druid-high-pivot-trail-bike.html

...the VIP factory.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Just received my used Druid frame today. Very impressed with the overall quality of the frame and ease of taking the linkage apart to clean/re-grease. This bike will be replacing my Yeti SB150 for my do it all bike alongside my hardtail. Will definitely share some pics and build specs/weight in a couple of days when I have a chance to swap parts over. Thanks to all for sharing knowledge and info in this thread as it has helped quite a bit when making the decision to purchase.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Just received my used Druid frame today. Very impressed with the overall quality of the frame and ease of taking the linkage apart to clean/re-grease. This bike will be replacing my Yeti SB150 for my do it all bike alongside my hardtail. Will definitely share some pics and build specs/weight in a couple of days when I have a chance to swap parts over. Thanks to all for sharing knowledge and info in this thread as it has helped quite a bit when making the decision to purchase.


Quicksilver z06 c5 corvette by chance?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> So I was watching one of BCPOVs videos on his druid last night and something caught my eye in this scene. Can you see the wear on the front triangle inside the swingarm? What the hell is that, why is it there, and what causes it. That seems like an alarming amount of wear in a place like that...


I've got some wear too, but not nearly as much. I think it's from mud, rocks between the frame at heigh wear points and perhaps not cleaning it enough. Just a guess from experience though.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

jpec29 said:


> Quicksilver z06 c5 corvette by chance?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Good observation.. I originally had a silver C5 but now have a silver C6 Z06. :thumbsup: Just worked out that the username works with the new car as well.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

CHWK said:


> So I was watching one of BCPOVs videos on his druid last night and something caught my eye in this scene. Can you see the wear on the front triangle inside the swingarm? What the hell is that, why is it there, and what causes it. That seems like an alarming amount of wear in a place like that...


Is that frame vinyl wrapped raw carbon frame? If so could be peeled away vinyl.


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## ForbiddenBikeCo (Nov 17, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Just for my own curiosity, who actually manufactures Forbiddens frames?


Our frames are made at VIP which is one of the top carbon fibre producing facilities in Asia. They are responsible for the manufacturing of many of the top brands in cycling and we are pleased to have them as a partner.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

ForbiddenBikeCo said:


> Our frames are made at VIP which is one of the top carbon fibre producing facilities in Asia. They are responsible for the manufacturing of many of the top brands in cycling and we are pleased to have them as a partner.


Rad! Thanks for satisfying my curiosity!


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Hoping to be on a Druid sometime in 2021. Reading through the thread but not sure of which colour to aim for! Shame they no longer do the black frame. For those with the Brownstone is it really brown or does it change depending on light. Photos I have looked at it goes from grey to greenish to light brown. Cannot view in real life as based in Aus and it’s a case of order and wait.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

shiny said:


> Hoping to be on a Druid sometime in 2021. Reading through the thread but not sure of which colour to aim for! Shame they no longer do the black frame. For those with the Brownstone is it really brown or does it change depending on light. Photos I have looked at it goes from grey to greenish to light brown. Cannot view in real life as based in Aus and it's a case of order and wait.


About to join ya there shiny - or that is when I can get my hands on one.... tooooo much about this bike says get it and make it the 1 bike quiver! Wait - did I just say that??


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## boylagz (Sep 28, 2008)

Waitin on dat 160mm Forbidden beast...

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using tiny.cc/Mtbr_android_app


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

boylagz said:


> Waitin on dat 160mm Forbidden beast...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using tiny.cc/Mtbr_android_app


samesies


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

boylagz said:


> Waitin on dat 160mm Forbidden beast...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using tiny.cc/Mtbr_android_app


Yah, me too. They said "after the holidays" for the release, so I'm for something beyond a massive hangover on Jan. 1.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Anyone live in the Nor Cal/Northern Nevada area riding a Druid in a sz large?

I really want to try one before buying, still loving my GG bikes, but I am really curious to see how the high pivot feels in vivo.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Still holding out for my Druid frame to arrive this week. Might be a christmas assembly kind of thing. Installed the smashpot into my lyrik and got the storia all set up and ready to go. The 2020 bike shortage can suck it.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

shiny said:


> Hoping to be on a Druid sometime in 2021. Reading through the thread but not sure of which colour to aim for! Shame they no longer do the black frame. For those with the Brownstone is it really brown or does it change depending on light. Photos I have looked at it goes from grey to greenish to light brown. Cannot view in real life as based in Aus and it's a case of order and wait.


All photos/ lighting will change color depending on temperature (K). That said, this brown is a muted beige slate unless in direct sunlight (warm vs cool lighting).

































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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Energ8t said:


> All photos/ lighting will change color depending on temperature (K). That said, this brown is a muted beige slate unless in direct sunlight (warm vs cool lighting).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome. Thanks. Really digging that colour. When I first saw it I was not a fan but has really grown on me. Torn between brownstone and blue steel. Be a while before I have the finances so plenty of time to think!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

shiny said:


> Awesome. Thanks. Really digging that colour. When I first saw it I was not a fan but has really grown on me. Torn between brownstone and blue steel. Be a while before I have the finances so plenty of time to think!


That blue looks awesome too! You can't go wrong. Adding coil and a Secus are the jam.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

shiny said:


> Awesome. Thanks. Really digging that colour. When I first saw it I was not a fan but has really grown on me. Torn between brownstone and blue steel. Be a while before I have the finances so plenty of time to think!


I have a Brownstone and really like the color. To my eyes it is more grey with brown undertones - looks cool. My previous bike was bright yellow so maybe I'm just sick of bright colors.

I feel the biggest deciding factor between Brownstone and the Blue Steel is deciding between glossy or matte (since they both look great). I much prefer glossy bikes - easier to clean and matte gets those little scratches super easily. Just something else for ya to consider.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Energ8t said:


> All photos/ lighting will change color depending on temperature (K). That said, this brown is a muted beige slate unless in direct sunlight (warm vs cool lighting).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

That's just Moto foam to keep rocks out. I ended up just extending the rear fender a bit more and don't really use the foam anymore. I rarely if ever get a rock in there. There is no wear from the frame on it so own.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Frazam said:


> I have a Brownstone and really like the color. To my eyes it is more grey with brown undertones - looks cool. My previous bike was bright yellow so maybe I'm just sick of bright colors.
> 
> I feel the biggest deciding factor between Brownstone and the Blue Steel is deciding between glossy or matte (since they both look great). I much prefer glossy bikes - easier to clean and matte gets those little scratches super easily. Just something else for ya to consider.


Cheers. Would be running a clear frame wrap of some sort but current bike is gloss and agree it's easy to keep clean.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

For you Druid owners - Im REALLY intrigued and close to pulling the trigger - BUT - I've heard some recurring theme in reviews that maybe if your trails are a little more 'mellow' etc - it may not be the most fun or engaging ride. I have a great trail ecosystem of techy twisty single track - but nothing extreme in terms of steeps, or longer high speed DH sections... while I will travel to more of that type of trail on occasion the reality is - will the Druid be that fun bike all over the place? I just don't want to make a $3300 mistake altho I suspect resell wouldn't be an issue IF I simply didn't like it... any thoughts/perspective appreciated. For reference - im on a Ibis Ripmo AF. Numerous good upgrades. Great bike. Also looking at Norco Optic.. because of the 90% of my regular riding.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> For you Druid owners - Im REALLY intrigued and close to pulling the trigger - BUT - I've heard some recurring theme in reviews that maybe if your trails are a little more 'mellow' etc - it may not be the most fun or engaging ride. I have a great trail ecosystem of techy twisty single track - but nothing extreme in terms of steeps, or longer high speed DH sections... while I will travel to more of that type of trail on occasion the reality is - will the Druid be that fun bike all over the place? I just don't want to make a $3300 mistake altho I suspect resell wouldn't be an issue IF I simply didn't like it... any thoughts/perspective appreciated. For reference - im on a Ibis Ripmo AF. Numerous good upgrades. Great bike. Also looking at Norco Optic.. because of the 90% of my regular riding.


I find that it's less about needing super-aggro-gnar trails, and more about the Druid letting you push the envelope on whatever you do have to ride. The little doubles that you normally pump through turn into fun gap jumps. The chunk of rock or awkward root step that you normally ride around is now a launch. Choose a bad line - Druid don't care. It lets you get away with stuff.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

pinkrobe said:


> I find that it's less about needing super-aggro-gnar trails, and more about the Druid letting you push the envelope on whatever you do have to ride. The little doubles that you normally pump through turn into fun gap jumps. The chunk of rock or awkward root step that you normally ride around is now a launch. Choose a bad line - Druid don't care. It lets you get away with stuff.


I agree. It's still a 130 which isn't out of the realm of mellow trail riding. I got the Druid so I could have a lower travel bike that could handle beyonds it's weight. I wanted "quality" travel over quantity. This is a great bike to handle almost everything.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Energ8t said:


> That's just Moto foam to keep rocks out. I ended up just extending the rear fender a bit more and don't really use the foam anymore. I rarely if ever get a rock in there. There is no wear from the frame on it so own.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks. I meant wrapped right around the cables where they enter the swingarm. It looks like you have a grommet or something protecting the carbon?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Frazam said:


> Thanks. I meant wrapped right around the cables where they enter the swingarm. It looks like you have a grommet or something protecting the carbon?


Oh right. That's just some rubber I jammed in to keep the cable from rubbing too much when it suspension moves. Nothing most people care about.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

pinkrobe said:


> I find that it's less about needing super-aggro-gnar trails, and more about the Druid letting you push the envelope on whatever you do have to ride. The little doubles that you normally pump through turn into fun gap jumps. The chunk of rock or awkward root step that you normally ride around is now a launch. Choose a bad line - Druid don't care. It lets you get away with stuff.


That's exactly how I feel about my Druid. Yesterday I rode Neds atomic dustbin in Vancouver's North Shore. I last rode it on a knolly podium several years ago. I felt as confident and stable (if not more because of the 29er wheels). I don't feel like I'd ever need more rear travel.

On the other hand I'm slowly getting seduced by the prospect of installing a secus on my Fox 36.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> That's exactly how I feel about my Druid. Yesterday I rode Neds atomic dustbin in Vancouver's North Shore. I last rode it on a knolly podium several years ago. I felt as confident and stable (if not more because of the 29er wheels). I don't feel like I'd ever need more rear travel.
> 
> On the other hand I'm slowly getting seduced by the prospect of installing a secus on my Fox 36.


Do it. You won't regret it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Not sure how new this is or not but Forbidden just made merch available for USA. Grabbed at shirt finally. Get 'em while they're hot. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Energ8t said:


> Do it. You won't regret it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My wife would like to have a word with you.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> My wife would like to have a word with you.


Tell her it makes the bike more stable and you won't get injured.
It's also cheaper than a drinking habit... unless you already have one. LOL

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Energ8t said:


> Tell her it makes the bike more stable and you won't get injured.
> It's also cheaper than a drinking habit... unless you already have one. LOL
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


i have a craft beer problem and a bike problem. wife doesnt like me atm


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## Immerdraussen* (Dec 20, 2020)

Hi, I am on the search for a Druid in XL in gloss moss.
If somebody will sell the frame oder know somebody or shop...
Let me know.
Thank you in advance.
Cheers, Dan


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Hopefully completed this week, I've been piecing together a fairly unique druid, with a few small things to go yet, brakes, cranks, decals, grips etc
Here's a taster - full build + details will be up on my Instagram @brokenlinesmtb - I will most likely put it on here and vital too!


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Edited post


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Magnus Manson [2018 Canadian DH champ] looks to be on the new Forbidden. There was a story up yesterday that mostly hid the frame from view, but you could tell it was a Forbidden bike. Looks like we won't have long to wait! Magnus Instagram


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Hey guys. I was at the local Forbidden dealer this evening picking up some last minute gifts (mostly for me, lol) and ended up going down a deep dark rabbit hole...








They have a few more and said they would be willing to ship to wherever.

If any of you are interested let me know - I can put you in touch with the dude I was chatting with about this.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

incubus said:


> Anybody have a ziggy link that they're willing to part with? If so, please PM me
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you end up finding one?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATTENTION: Ziggy people...

Can you please provide your feedback? Especially interested to hear from those who moved from stock to Ziggy for a comparison.

I am about to get in touch with Dustin at We Are One but before I go there, just wanted to make sure this is a good idea.

Thanks.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> ATTENTION: Ziggy people...
> 
> Can you please provide your feedback? Especially interested to hear from those who moved from stock to Ziggy for a comparison.
> 
> ...


 I'll let you know next week! My frame finally shipped today! Not the one I ordered unfortunately, but now i've got a blue steel on the way for next week! Ziggy link from the get go tho so I won't have full 29 to compare to.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Can you please provide your feedback? Especially interested to hear from those who moved from stock to Ziggy for a comparison.


I have two rides on my Zigged Druid...about 350 miles of full 29er before making the swap. For reference, my frame is an XL. She has a 450mm CS. With the rearward axle path, the CS grows when the shock compresses. What is already a longer than average CS on the L and XL frames gets even longer when manualing. Conversely, forward axle paths get shorter....its a tradeoff. When just cruising on flat ground, getting the front wheel off the ground is no issue....getting the front wheel up in technical situations where the rear is already compressed feels like a chore.

I Zigged primarily to move the pivot point of the rear wheel down in an effort to make the bike more manageable in technical situations requiring lifting the front wheel.

Two rides in I am noticing no negatives. The rear wheel still feels like it never gets hung up. It does "feel" like the bike wants to hold a tighter line when you lean it into a corner....but that could just be placebo. I can't say that it definitively feels different to manual, but i haven't ridden the trails where I noticed it yet in this configuration.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> ATTENTION: Ziggy people...
> 
> Can you please provide your feedback? Especially interested to hear from those who moved from stock to Ziggy for a comparison.
> 
> ...


Had my Ziggy link fitted for months as was from the first batch.

Positives:
+Easier to switch between rutted or fast changes direction.
+Manuals more easily
+Styling it up is much easier with the mullet set up.
+Loves steeper terrain

-Pedal strikes more often
-Gets hung up on 'edges' more often
-Slower on the clock compared to full 29 for me
-Doesn't pump terrain as well as the full 29er


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_HENDO_ said:


> Had my Ziggy link fitted for months as was from the first batch.
> 
> Positives:
> +Easier to switch between rutted or fast changes direction.
> ...


Merry Xmas everyone. Hoping that Santa brought you all sorts of awesome biking related gifts!
















Interesting re the pedal strikes. That was my one concern (apart from whatever outlay to We Are One I am about to incur). I was relieved to read the bb drop was only 6 mm. I get that every mm counts, but that's like .2 of an inch. Just when I had gotten over this as a concern...

And re the comments about getting the front end of this bike up, that has always been an observation of mine, from Day 1. I think I have learned to live with it because I don't notice it as much anymore. I have yet to blow a wheelie drop because of it.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

Have any of you Druid owners sized down from Forbidden’s recommended sizing for a more playful feel? I’m right in between size recs and particularly concerned about being able to get the front end up on wheelie drops, ledgy clumbs, etc. Difficulty lifting the front end seems to be a common issue among the reviews I have read.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nmxtrdr said:


> Have any of you Druid owners sized down from Forbidden's recommended sizing for a more playful feel? I'm right in between size recs and particularly concerned about being able to get the front end up on wheelie drops, ledgy clumbs, etc. Difficulty lifting the front end seems to be a common issue among the reviews I have read.


Not sure what sizes are involved for you or your height, etc., but I understand from my LBS that there is a significant difference between the medium and large, in terms of ability to lift the front end. One of the mechanics there who has a medium, took mine for a quick blast and was shocked at how totally different it felt.

I am 5'10" and ride a large. I wouldn't feel comfortable on a medium. The large is good, but I would not want it any smaller, regardless of any increased ability to manual it.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not sure what sizes are involved for you or your height, etc., but I understand from my LBS that there is a significant difference between the medium and large, in terms of ability to lift the front end. One of the mechanics there who has a medium, took mine for a quick blast and was shocked at how totally different it felt.
> 
> I am 5'10" and ride a large. I wouldn't feel comfortable on a medium. The large is good, but I would not want it any smaller, regardless of any increased ability to manual it.


Yeah, same here - I wouldn't want to sacrifice fit just to get the front end up higher.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not sure what sizes are involved for you or your height, etc., but I understand from my LBS that there is a significant difference between the medium and large, in terms of ability to lift the front end. One of the mechanics there who has a medium, took mine for a quick blast and was shocked at how totally different it felt.
> 
> I am 5'10" and ride a large. I wouldn't feel comfortable on a medium. The large is good, but I would not want it any smaller, regardless of any increased ability to manual it.


Thanks. Looking at the numbers there is a substantial difference in length between the sizes and of course I'm on the cusp of S and M.

Totally agree on the fit aspect and being comfortable, but I do a lot of techy, ledgy climbing with occasional slow speed drops. If getting the front end up is a problem in those situations it'll be a deal breaker for me.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nmxtrdr said:


> Thanks. Looking at the numbers there is a substantial difference in length between the sizes and of course I'm on the cusp of S and M.
> 
> Totally agree on the fit aspect and being comfortable, but I do a lot of techy, ledgy climbing with occasional slow speed drops. If getting the front end up is a problem in those situations it'll be a deal breaker for me.


I think I may have overstated things. Don't be a victim of my hyperbole. Pretty sure all of us are riding some pretty techy terrain with nothing but big grins.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

nmxtrdr said:


> Totally agree on the fit aspect and being comfortable, but I do a lot of techy, ledgy climbing with occasional slow speed drops. If getting the front end up is a problem in those situations it'll be a deal breaker for me.


FWIW, I don't think the front end of my Druid feels any different than any of the bikes I've ridden in the last few years. But the high-pivot rear end... damn, that thing just floats over chunk.

If you check out Nate Hills' video last week from Hall Ranch (riding with Shawn Neer), that's kind of my go-to testing ground, and the Druid absolutely shined. It's about as chunky as techy/ledgy/chunky as it gets.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

Ok, thanks guys. I'm unable to get a test ride and waffling a bit on which size to go with. At 5'7" medium is recommended by Forbidden, so I guess a medium it shall be.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nmxtrdr said:


> Ok, thanks guys. I'm unable to get a test ride and waffling a bit on which size to go with. At 5'7" medium is recommended by Forbidden, so I guess a medium it shall be.


I suspect you will find the medium Druid to be a small medium, if that makes sense. My large Druid is by far the smallest frame in my quiver of "large" bikes. I could easily ride an XL. My large Honzo feels like 1 or 2 sizes larger.

Everyone is different but I think you made the right choice.


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## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I suspect you will find the medium Druid to be a small medium, if that makes sense. My large Druid is by far the smallest frame in my quiver of "large" bikes. I could easily ride an XL. My large Honzo feels like 1 or 2 sizes larger.
> 
> Everyone is different but I think you made the right choice.


Thanks Mike. Cheers


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nmxtrdr said:


> Thanks Mike. Cheers


Plus the guys at my shop can manual all day long on the medium. End to end in the parking lot. Not so much on the large. I am almost positive you will not be disappointed with the medium. Seems to check all the boxes for you.

Brace yourself for some incoming stoke...


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

nmxtrdr said:


> Ok, thanks guys. I'm unable to get a test ride and waffling a bit on which size to go with. At 5'7" medium is recommended by Forbidden, so I guess a medium it shall be.


I'm the same height and I ride a medium.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Plus the guys at my shop can manual all day long on the medium. End to end in the parking lot. Not so much on the large.


The only place I hate the 450mm CS on my XL is technical manuals when the shock is already compressed. With 27ish mm of rearward movement, you can see how long of a lever that potentially creates.

Oh, and just for fun, the elephant in the room that nobody is talking about: rebound axle path. On single square hits, rearward axle path is magical. If its rebounding into successive square edges it starts to pack and you lose usable travel.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

nmxtrdr said:


> Ok, thanks guys. I'm unable to get a test ride and waffling a bit on which size to go with. At 5'7" medium is recommended by Forbidden, so I guess a medium it shall be.


I am also 5'7" and ride a medium with 50mm stem and high rise bar. Handling and comfort on the Druid feels great and would not want to size down to a small. In case it were too stretched out for you, switching to shorter stem would still be an option.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

A long time ago I owned a knolly podium and the Druid in size m feels just as stable and I love it.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Does anybody happen to have the artwork files for the druid? Downtube, headtube, top tube, seat tube etc?


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

I believe Forbidden will email you the file if you contact them.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

QuickSilverZ said:


> I believe Forbidden will email you the file if you contact them.


They're out of the office til the new year so figured I'd ask here if anyone had gotten them in the past.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Got it, hopefully somebody has some to send over then.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> Does anybody happen to have the artwork files for the druid? Downtube, headtube, top tube, seat tube etc?


here is artwork files





Transfer - Dropbox


Dropbox is a free service that lets you bring your photos, docs, and videos anywhere and share them easily. Never email yourself a file again!




www.dropbox.com


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Having thrashed my zigged druid for the past 4 days I would urge anyone that is on the fence to go and do it. absolutely amazing. tighter lines, easier to style, the wheel doesn't get hung up and definitely adds a bit more party to the druid. In all honesty, I have noticed a couple of pedal strikes but definitely nothing to worry about... this is hands down the best bike I've ever ridden.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Having thrashed my zigged druid for the past 4 days I would urge anyone that is on the fence to go and do it. absolutely amazing. tighter lines, easier to style, the wheel doesn't get hung up and definitely adds a bit more party to the druid. In all honesty, I have noticed a couple of pedal strikes but definitely nothing to worry about... this is hands down the best bike I've ever ridden.
> 
> View attachment 1908902


Oh! I like the logo on the side of the downtube like that. The reason I asked for the files is because the frame I ordered is not coming in eggplant as I wanted but blue steel. The second it gets here it is getting torn down and either painted white with metallic purple lettering, or if I can line the stencils up right blue steel with purple lettering and a gloss clear coat. That white looks amazing!


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> Oh! I like the logo on the side of the downtube like that. The reason I asked for the files is that the frame I ordered is not coming in eggplant as I wanted but blue steel. The second it gets here it is getting torn down and either painted white with metallic purple lettering, or if I can line the stencils up right blue steel with purple lettering and a gloss clear coat. That white looks amazing!


Hello, yes I was in the same situation - wanted cosmic eggplant and received a brownstone. I actually opted for a vinyl wrap to avoid voiding the warranty, which paint will do. its an Avery Dennison White Diamond wrap with some custom gold decals.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Hello, yes I was in the same situation - wanted cosmic eggplant and received a brownstone. I actually opted for a vinyl wrap to avoid voiding the warranty, which paint will do. its an Avery Dennison White Diamond wrap with some custom gold decals.


Did you ask Forbidden if paint would void the warranty? I've heard yes's and no's from certain companies about this kind of stuff. One common thing i've heard in the past from other bikes i've done is that they don't want you sanding down to bare carbon which a lot of people do for the weight issue. When I do my frames I do a light scuffing over the frame just to get adhesion then use a 2k epoxy primer to create a good base. No issues so far haha


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Finally got a chance to swap all the parts over from my Yeti SB150 and take the bike out on a few local shake down rides. All I can say is it pretty much exceeded my expectations everywhere. I have ridden quite a few demo bikes recently and I this was the best climber of the bunch (Ibis Ripmo, SB150, Revel Rascal, Niner RIP9). It is much more efficient than I thought it would be while still providing tons of traction on the tech sections. Never perceived any additional drag from the idler and the bike was silent as can be. I did run without the e13 chainguide but have since installed an MRP SXG lower guide/bash guard which doesn't have a tensioner wheel so no additional drag. The bike really amazed me once I reached the top and pointed it downhill. Having ridden my SB150 for the past 3-4 months, I was super surprised that this bike gave me much more of the hoverbike effect and just felt super planted and smooth no matter what I was going through. The SB150 still has the edge in straight line speed, but this bike is faster everywhere else and felt like the rear suspension ate up repeated hits better for me. I posted some of my fastest downhill times on some local sections on my first ride and improved them even more on the following ride. This is a section of trail that I have ridden 200+ times so I have a lot of data on it. The rear suspension is truly impressive and must be ridden to feel the real world difference with a high pivot setup. I think anybody would be extremely happy with this bike outside of those looking for a pure enduro race/park bike. Not that this bike can't do that, there are just better bikes geared towards that if that is your purpose. This bike will eat up everything else happily though and keep on pushing through. Can't wait to continue pushing the limits on it.

Still need to weigh my build (will update once I do), but here it is:

Size L Druid Frame
Fox Factory 36 150mm
Fox DPX2
Fox Factory 170mm Dropper
e13 LG1 Carbon Wheelset (30mm internal)
Maxxis DHF 2.5 F / Maxxis Dissector 2.4 R
Code RSC Brakes (200mm F/ 180mm R)
Sram XX1 Cassette
Sram X01 Shifter
Sram X1 Carbon Cranks w/ Wolftooth 32T Chainring
Sram XX1 Chain
Raceface Turbine Stem
OneUp Carbon Bars
ODI Elite Grips
Cane Creek 40 Headset
Specialized Phenom Saddle


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> Did you ask Forbidden if paint would void the warranty? I've heard yes's and no's from certain companies about this kind of stuff. One common thing i've heard in the past from other bikes i've done is that they don't want you sanding down to bare carbon which a lot of people do for the weight issue. When I do my frames I do a light scuffing over the frame just to get adhesion then use a 2k epoxy primer to create a good base. No issues so far haha


I didn't talk to forbidden themselves only to the NZ Distributor but I had come across it before so wasn't surprised. I think after a season on this vinyl I will be getting it painted regardless.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Finally got a chance to swap all the parts over from my Yeti SB150 and take the bike out on a few local shake down rides. All I can say is it pretty much exceeded my expectations everywhere. I have ridden quite a few demo bikes recently and I this was the best climber of the bunch (Ibis Ripmo, SB150, Revel Rascal, Niner RIP9). It is much more efficient than I thought it would be while still.....


that looks absolutely amazing!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> I didn't talk to forbidden themselves only to the NZ Distributor but I had come across it before so wasn't surprised. I think after a season on this vinyl I will be getting it painted regardless.


I'm gonna try purple vinyl overlays on the frame before I really tear into it, but I am always happier with a full repaint. It's a hard thing to do to a brand new $4000 frame haha I wish they just made them in black and white.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> I'm gonna try purple vinyl overlays on the frame before I really tear into it, but I am always happier with a full repaint. It's a hard thing to do to a brand new $4000 frame haha I wish they just made them in black and white.


I've noticed some thickness/clearance/tolerance issues already with the vinyl. around some linkages and also where the rear rotor is. Ill upload some photos when I'm next near the bike


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

I made quite a few changes to my Druid in the last couple of weeks (removed lower guide, shortened chain, swapped out a bunch of parts to carbon bits) and it's been amazing to ride since. The high pivot design is amazing and this thing absolutely rails on the steep, rowdy tech I've been riding recently.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Bike looks dialed! How are you liking the Cane Creek IL coil? Been thinking of possibly trying one out in the future. Looks like you decided to keep the bike after all?

PS: hope to use your company in the future when you are able to get up and running again


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Bike looks dialed! How are you liking the Cane Creek IL coil? Been thinking of possibly trying one out in the future. Looks like you decided to keep the bike after all?
> 
> PS: hope to use your company in the future when you are able to get up and running again


Yeah, I decided to keep the Druid over the winter and play around with it; I'm glad I did. I really like the coil on this bike- super plush, and it climbs quite well. I've got an air shock coming too, to see what kind of trade-off there is (if any) so I can lighten it up a bit more.

Chasing Epic will be up and running again next year.  We pushed things back a bit in the spring so we really won't get going until June, but we have a full schedule of stuff running all summer and fall.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

smmokan said:


> I made quite a few changes to my Druid in the last couple of weeks (removed lower guide, shortened chain, swapped out a bunch of parts to carbon bits) and it's been amazing to ride since. The high pivot design is amazing and this thing absolutely rails on the steep, rowdy tech I've been riding recently.


Looks good...I noticed that both you and @QuickSilverZ have removed the lower chainguide. This has come up a few times in the thread--has anyone had problems when doing that over the long term? I know that Forbidden says it's needed.

The only things I can think of that might be problems are premature chainring wear (it couldn't be worse than the idler wear, which engages fewer teeth; and I'd be happy to go with steel on both if available), or a more frequently dropped chain in rapid chunder due to the lower chain growth when the suspension cycles. It'd be great to keep the thread informed about any long-term negative effects you see.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

hbar said:


> Looks good...I noticed that both you and @QuickSilverZ have removed the lower chainguide. This has come up a few times in the thread--has anyone had problems when doing that over the long term? I know that Forbidden says it's needed.
> 
> The only things I can think of that might be problems are premature chainring wear (it couldn't be worse than the idler wear, which engages fewer teeth; and I'd be happy to go with steel on both if available), or a more frequently dropped chain in rapid chunder due to the lower chain growth when the suspension cycles. It'd be great to keep the thread informed about any long-term negative effects you see.


Yeah, I did it after I read a post from someone at Forbidden (not sure who) on the FB group that said they didn't see issues with removing the chain guide on the L and XL frame sizes. But also, you don't see it on any of the other high pivot bikes that have been tested/reviewed/marketed lately. IME, it made a big difference in drag when I took that off and tightened the chain a bit more.

I've got about 5-6 rides on the Druid since removing the lower guide and I haven't had any issues yet- and the trails I've been riding are pretty damn rowdy and technical. I'll definitely update things if I do notice any adverse effects.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

^^^ Agreed, I saw no issues when running without the lower guide even over some pretty rough terrain. I couldn’t tell you if it felt any more efficient because I never ran the guide to begin with. Now with my MRP SXG guide, there is no drag added, but still have the benefit of a guide and bash guard. You just don’t get any additional chain wrap on the front ring out of it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I posted previously on this.

Mid summer I shredded the roller in the bottom guide. My LBS had none but had some en route from Forbidden. I ran it guide-less for a week until the shipment from Forbidden arrived (I had other stuff in it too that I was waiting for).

No issues and less driveline drag/noise while running it guide-less.

I called Forbidden. They recommended using the guide because without it, the chain did not come into contact with the minimum recommended number of chain ring teeth. No idea if it’s a durability issue but I can say that during the time I ran it guide-less, I did not drop a chain even once.

I didn’t feel comfortable continuing with it guide-less after my discussion with Forbidden so I picked up a spare roller for my guide, and have been happily running the lower guide since. The added driveline drag and noise is minimal to my legs and ears.

Plus it looks far more badass with the guide installed. Lol.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

This is the reply from Forbidden (copied from the FB group):

During our initial ride testing of the Druid we found that during high torque situations, most notably steep climbs, the chain could be thrown from the chainring. Due to the arrangement of our idler pulley in relation to the chainring and how that changes on different sizes it was more of a problem on the smaller sizes and with certain chain/chainring combinations. We tested multiple solutions to this but the only way we could consistently eliminate the risk was to use a lower chainguide. We can't talk to the testing of other brands but this was our experience. We felt that the only way to ensure that all of our customers, no matter what drivetrain they chose, would not experience this issue was to include a guide with every frame. Hopefully that gives you some information on why we recommend running the guide.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Is this bike company coming out with a longer travel version? love the looks of it.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

jay_paradox said:


> Is this bike company coming out with a longer travel version? love the looks of it.


Yes, it should be announced in January. Based on rumours:

~64 degree head angle if used with a 170mm travel fork
154mm rear travel
Longer reach than the Druid at any given size
A bit heavier than the Druid
Named "Dreadnought" [or maybe Pagan]
It looks like a Druid, but _more._


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Yes, it should be announced in January. Based on rumours:
> 
> ~64 degree head angle if used with a 170mm travel fork
> 154mm rear travel
> ...


Niiiice. I have a Pivot SB V1 and I would prefer to have my next ride have more travel not less.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Well everyone. Fedex decided to play nice yesterday and bring me a surprise early delivery. Got it all built up last night. Originally I had ordered a Eggplant purple frame, but due to shipping issues and what not it could have been another 6 weeks or so that I wasn't willing to wait as its already been 3 months since I initially ordered it. I made due and created some purple overlays on all the artwork on the frame and I think it matches nicely with my custom painted lyrik lowers.


















































*Part Spec is roughly as follows:*
Blue Steel Frame Large w/ Ziggy Link
EXT Storia LOK Shock
RS Lyrik Ultimate w/ Vorsprung Smashpot
Giant TRX Carbon hoops laces to Hope Pro4 Hub
Maxxis DHF 2.5x29, Maxxis DHR2 2.4x27.5
Shimano SLX 4 pot brakes, 203mm ice tech rotors F/R, Metallic Pads
Sram GX Cranks
Wolftooth Nickel 32t Chain Ring
One Up Oil Slick Pedals
Sram GX Derailleur w/ JRC Components Pulley Wheels
Shimano SLX Cassette
Sram XX1 Black Chain
RaceFace Turbine R Stem Polished
OneUp Carbon Bars
DMR Death Grips w/ Oil Slick Clamps
OneUp 190mm Dropper Post w/ OneUp Trigger
SDG Ti Oil Slick Saddle
Zee Cage w/ OneUp EDC Pump+Tool

I am sure I am missing some stuff. Currently running the SLX brakes while I wait for my TrickStuff brakes to be built.

Can't wait to get out for a ride on it and get everything set up and riding prime.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Damn that bike is SICK! Do they suggest running mullet?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> Damn that bike is SICK! Do they suggest running mullet?


The ziggy link is sold by them to make the bike capable as a mullet.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> The ziggy link is sold by them to make the bike capable as a mullet.


Cool I have only ridden a 27.5 wheeled bike. I'm only 5'5" and concerned that a 29er is not best for me. I can see a mullet making sense though.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

pinkrobe said:


> Yes, it should be announced in January. Based on rumours:
> 
> ~64 degree head angle if used with a 170mm travel fork
> 154mm rear travel
> ...


looks mint


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

@CHWK that looks awesome. did you get the graphics done by a company or do them yourself?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

shiny said:


> @CHWK that looks awesome. did you get the graphics done by a company or do them yourself?


I made them myself on my vinyl cutter. I usually use it for making stencils for all the custom paint work I do as a hobby, but occasionally it serves its true purpose to cut decals haha


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> I made them myself on my vinyl cutter. I usually use it for making stencils for all the custom paint work I do as a hobby, but occasionally it serves its true purpose to cut decals haha


Really dig the ride. Custom art always tops it off. Would you be open to share the vector art? I have a vinyl cutter at work as well.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Really dig the ride. Custom art always tops it off. Would you be open to share the vector art? I have a vinyl cutter at work as well.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk








Forbidden-Decals - Google Drive







drive.google.com





Here you go. I've made these decals about .75mm wider around the edges than the factory decals which gives just enough room to cover everything easily. I'd recommend doing the top tube and seat tube graphics in maybe 2-3 separate pieces when actually applying.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Forbidden-Decals - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wanna sell me some for my downtube? Shuttle pad wore off my E on the Forbidden logo


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Forbidden-Decals - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I might be interested in buying a set as well.

Would you be willing to sell me a set in Fox orange? Please PM me if you wish.

Thanks.


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## Skeptastic (Mar 31, 2012)

tdc_worm said:


> man....sounds like you and I were shopping at the same shop, haha. I've owned a Following MB, Offering, and Wreck V1. I also own a new Enduro.
> 
> Of the lot, the Offering was the shortest lived (I keep a 2 bike quiver). The Wreck v1 is surprisingly close from a geo standpoint to the Druid. The added reach and chainstay length actually give the XL Druid 30mm more wheelbase in an XL. I'd actually say the two bikes are very similar...they actually have pretty similar leverage ratios. The one one caveat: Chainstay length on the Druid is longer on both the L and the XL (Which I ride). With the rearward axle movement, the CS length grows as the shock compresses. Manualing my Druid in technical/quick reaction situations can be a chore. My opinion is that there isn't a ton of separation between the Druid and Wreck v1. The 2020 Enduro is a DH bike in disguise, nothing playful about that bike in comparison.
> 
> I'd say that the Druid's rear punches well above it's weight. So much so, I've entertained the idea of short stroking the shock to knock it down to 120ish travel. it would eat the Offering's 140mm of travel for lunch, and feels on par with the Wreck in the rough...it just never hangs up.





tdc_worm said:


> man....sounds like you and I were shopping at the same shop, haha. I've owned a Following MB, Offering, and Wreck V1. I also own a new Enduro.
> 
> Of the lot, the Offering was the shortest lived (I keep a 2 bike quiver). The Wreck v1 is surprisingly close from a geo standpoint to the Druid. The added reach and chainstay length actually give the XL Druid 30mm more wheelbase in an XL. I'd actually say the two bikes are very similar...they actually have pretty similar leverage ratios. The one one caveat: Chainstay length on the Druid is longer on both the L and the XL (Which I ride). With the rearward axle movement, the CS length grows as the shock compresses. Manualing my Druid in technical/quick reaction situations can be a chore. My opinion is that there isn't a ton of separation between the Druid and Wreck v1. The 2020 Enduro is a DH bike in disguise, nothing playful about that bike in comparison.
> 
> I'd say that the Druid's rear punches well above it's weight. So much so, I've entertained the idea of short stroking the shock to knock it down to 120ish travel. it would eat the Offering's 140mm of travel for lunch, and feels on par with the Wreck in the rough...it just never hangs up.


If I were going to get an Offering V2, which people keep telling me will be just fine at the bike park (as a reason to not get the Wreckoning), you'd recommend getting the Druid instead, even for Bike Park use? It's so hard to imagine 130 mm of travel and the frame holding up to such use.

My gut says go Wreckoning or wait for the longer travel Forbidden bike. I just feel it's common for folks to recommend the mid-travel bikes for all-around use, whereas I'd prefer to have more dedicated rigs. I've enjoyed your posts quite a bit, seeing as you've owned a lot of the bikes I've been thinking about. The 2021 Mega 290 is the only one you haven't owned, actually, haha.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Skeptastic said:


> If I were going to get an Offering V2, which people keep telling me will be just fine at the bike park (as a reason to not get the Wreckoning), you'd recommend getting the Druid instead, even for Bike Park use? It's so hard to imagine 130 mm of travel and the frame holding up to such use.
> 
> My gut says go Wreckoning or wait for the longer travel Forbidden bike. I just feel it's common for folks to recommend the mid-travel bikes for all-around use, whereas I'd prefer to have more dedicated rigs. I've enjoyed your posts quite a bit, seeing as you've owned a lot of the bikes I've been thinking about. The 2021 Mega 290 is the only one you haven't owned, actually, haha.


So take this for what you will, as I only just had my first ride on my Druid yesterday. I moved from a Revel Rail which is 165mm rear travel, and I had a 29er up front with 160mm fork. This druid feels about the same. Given I am running coil front and rear on it, but I don't think i've ever ridden a sturdier feeling bike. Even based on first ride impressions the rear travel feels like 150/160 and I am going to have no reservations about taking this thing to whistler multiple weekends in the summer.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

CHWK said:


> So take this for what you will, as I only just had my first ride on my Druid yesterday. I moved from a Revel Rail which is 165mm rear travel, and I had a 29er up front with 160mm fork. This druid feels about the same. Given I am running coil front and rear on it, but I don't think i've ever ridden a sturdier feeling bike. Even based on first ride impressions the rear travel feels like 150/160 and I am going to have no reservations about taking this thing to whistler multiple weekends in the summer.


Agreed. Came from a Yeti SB6 and thought I'd keep the Yeti but build it up a burlier to differentiate the two bikes a bit more. Ended up selling it three months later after realizing the Druid felt better on all terrain and that couldn't foresee a situation where I'd need the additional travel from the Yeti. That being said, I haven't taken the Druid park riding, I do all enduro style riding in SoCal. Either way, this bike punches way above its travel numbers going downhill so if you plan on riding up any hills, I'd go for it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Skeptastic said:


> If I were going to get an Offering V2, which people keep telling me will be just fine at the bike park (as a reason to not get the Wreckoning), you'd recommend getting the Druid instead, even for Bike Park use? It's so hard to imagine 130 mm of travel and the frame holding up to such use.
> 
> My gut says go Wreckoning or wait for the longer travel Forbidden bike. I just feel it's common for folks to recommend the mid-travel bikes for all-around use, whereas I'd prefer to have more dedicated rigs. I've enjoyed your posts quite a bit, seeing as you've owned a lot of the bikes I've been thinking about. The 2021 Mega 290 is the only one you haven't owned, actually, haha.


Personally, I would not want to be beating the krap out of my Druid at a bike park. Not to say that it's not capable, just that I know the abuse it would take. I have a dedicated DH sled for that for that kind of suffering. If that's what you are looking for, I'd perhaps be waiting for the Dreadnaught.

That said, have a read of this:

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/gui...t-reviews/3648

"We have always been drawn to short travel bikes with a gravity bias, so we reached out to our friends in Cumberland, BC to get ourselves the Druid for a few months of riding in Squamish, BC..."

"...we never felt the need to use the compression lever on the shock to help with efficiency and very few can match its technical climbing prowess..."

"Regardless of what section we rode and how we rode it, the Druid was planted and confidence-inspiring when we dropped our heels, and poppy and playful when we jibbed about. On the shorter punchy bits, the lack of pedal feedback meant we could put power to the ground easily without blowing our feet off, and the shorter-than-usual travel meant we could climb far more efficiently than the enduro bikes that tend to frequent the trail most of the time..."

*"Regardless of feeling a little badly about dragging a 130mm bike up the chairlift, the Druid took rougher trails in stride and was an absolute rocket ship on trails like Ninja Cougar. After being so fun on the rolling, playful trails in Squamish we were impressed that the Druid also felt planted and composed on such high-speed, abusive trails."*

"The Druid makes a strong case as the pound-for-pound most capable bike we have thrown a leg over. It is energetic and nimble at lower speeds, and as the speeds and terrain get more demanding, the bike lengthens and settles into itself. Forbidden has created an extremely versatile bike, and the Druid confirms that the idler excels in applications other than just DH bikes. In a place like the Sea to Sky corridor, the terrain is intimidating enough that many folks rely on a long-travel bike for the handful of gnarly bits within a given ride, but a shorter travel bike like the Druid is capable enough to absorb the heavy impacts, and much more fun everywhere in between."

"...short travel "downcountry" bikes do not inspire the same confidence, nor can they withstand the abuse in a place like Squamish. The Forbidden Druid is truly a downhiller's trail bike: capable enough for reckless abandon, efficient enough that a recreational cross-country race is not out of the question and playful enough that mellower trails are still engaging. The Trifecta suspension design is proof that the high idler concept is effective and efficient in places other than the downhill track, and we would bet our bottom dollar that a race-oriented 160mm Forbidden offering would be an absolute weapon. *The Druid is a great option for anyone but is best suited to those looking for a mini-DH bike that will allow them to climb efficiently and descend like hooligans."*


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Personally, I would not want to be beating the krap out of my Druid at a bike park. Not to say that it's not capable, just that I know the abuse it would take. I have a dedicated DH sled for that for that kind of suffering. If that's what you are looking for, I'd perhaps be waiting for the Dreadnaught.
> 
> That said, have a read of this:
> 
> ...


That's some damn glowing feedback! Wow.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

smmokan said:


> This is the reply from Forbidden (copied from the FB group):
> 
> During our initial ride testing of the Druid we found that during high torque situations, most notably steep climbs, the chain could be thrown from the chainring. Due to the arrangement of our idler pulley in relation to the chainring and how that changes on different sizes it was more of a problem on the smaller sizes and with certain chain/chainring combinations. We tested multiple solutions to this but the only way we could consistently eliminate the risk was to use a lower chainguide. We can't talk to the testing of other brands but this was our experience. We felt that the only way to ensure that all of our customers, no matter what drivetrain they chose, would not experience this issue was to include a guide with every frame. Hopefully that gives you some information on why we recommend running the guide.


Interesting that their experience was size-dependent. I'm on a large, but I'm also running a 30T chainring (I'm in CO too, but I'm weak), so there's a bit less chain wrap. it might be worth a go. The additional drag is no big deal, but every little bit counts for the weak like me.


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## Skeptastic (Mar 31, 2012)

Thank you all for your feedback. The Druid sounds so tempting, but I think I'm gonna hold out and see what the Dreadnaught looks like, or else take a gamble on the Wreckoning or Mega 290. I'm a newbie and thus have no idea if I'm making the right decision, but at some point you do have to trust your gut. I just think with my lack of skill and size, something a bit burlier and with more travel will be safer at the bike park. One thing I've internalized from reading countless MTBR posts is that it takes a while to learn what truly suits you. So, in the end, you just have to get your feet wet and adjust as you learn what works better for your riding and what does not.

I've got a deposit down on a Wreckoning due in April, so hopefully I can find someone who owns one locally to get a feel for it in time to decide if I should keep the order or cancel it. There are demos in Albuquerque, but I'm not sure if covid protocol will allow me to demo them, coming from outside of New Mexico.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> Forbidden-Decals - Google Drive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks so much! Truly appreciate it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Got my first proper ride on the bike today. Super wet out, but managed there is a trail near me which seemed to drain fairly well. This trail has it all, a few flowy bits and berms, some steep clay chutes, rocky loose chutes, a giant rock roll, and some heavy root gardens. All I have to say is that the 3 month wait was worth it. The way I have my druid built it comes it at 36 pounds even with coil front and rear. The mechanical grip this bike has is staggering. In probably the worst conditions I ride in I have never felt more confident on a bike. The way it climbs is also amazing. I don't notice the weight, and with the coil it has more traction than my CBF Revel Rail. I can't wait to continue dialling in the suspension and getting a better feel for it.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Personally, I would not want to be beating the krap out of my Druid at a bike park. Not to say that it's not capable, just that I know the abuse it would take. I have a dedicated DH sled for that for that kind of suffering. If that's what you are looking for, I'd perhaps be waiting for the Dreadnaught.
> 
> That said, have a read of this:
> 
> ...


Agreed, I wouldn't take the Druid to the park regularly. Moving to Seattle soon and saving up for a DH sled to hit Whistler and shuttle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Agreed, I wouldn't take the Druid to the park regularly. Moving to Seattle soon and saving up for a DH sled to hit Whistler and shuttle.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The majority of my riding buddies ride 29ers in the 130-150 rear travel range and see multiple Whistler days during the summer on their bikes. I guess it depends on the way you've got your bike built up but I have zero reservations about taking this bike to whistler on the regular and that is after only one ride on it. I have even more confidence about this bike being able to take the abuse after talking to two people at whistler during the summer who were riding the new Dreadnought in the park. One of them said they had taken their Druid to a ton of the parks here in BC and never had any issues. Seeing the way Lewis Buchanan hammered his Druid over the last year helps as well. To each their own I suppose. Hard to imagine having multiple bikes now tho after what I've spent on my druid so maybe that's just me haha


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

I would totally take my Druid to bike parks! I live in Revelstoke, and rode the park here quite a bit this summer. I had no issues keeping up with friends on their enduro rigs. The trails outside the park are quite a bit gnarlier, but I didn't ever feel like the Druid was overwhelmed. I would definitely take the Druid to Whistler Bike Park. Check out BCPOV's trip to Whistler aboard the Druid: 



 He hits a bunch of classic WBP double-black tech stuff.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Anyone with a coil shock have any tips on measuring the sag? I've been running the softer spring rate that EXT gave me for my storia, but I am slightly convinced it might still be a bit too stiff. I never measured the sag before my first ride, but then when I went to do it today I realized that I have no idea how to on this frame.

Edit: Apparently a zip tie on the shaft works just fine. Sitting pretty right at 19mm. Guess I am just crazy.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Anyone with a coil shock have any tips on measuring the sag? I've been running the softer spring rate that EXT gave me for my storia, but I am slightly convinced it might still be a bit too stiff. I never measured the sag before my first ride, but then when I went to do it today I realized that I have no idea how to on this frame.


No tips but as an observation it seems that most are finding the recommended spring rate for the Druid to be too stiff. I am dropping from a 450 lb coil to a 425. I did not measure sag but I can tell that the stock air shock had more travel and was more plush then my 11-6 with the recommended 450 lb coil. I'm about 3 or 4 months away from trying the new spring but expect that I will like it much better.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> No tips but as an observation it seems that most are finding the recommended spring rate for the Druid to be too stiff. I am dropping from a 450 lb coil to a 425. I did not measure sag but I can tell that the stock air shock had more travel and was more plush then my 11-6 with the recommended 450 lb coil. I'm about 3 or 4 months away from trying the new spring but expect that I will like it much better.


Yea, I am running the 425lb spring they gave me initially. It seems to be sitting at 19mm on the shaft when at sag so I think it should be fine. I haven't mucked about with the rebound and compression settings at all, I might try that on my next ride and go from there. The traction seems there from the coil, I just want to really make sure I am using everything its got.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Yea, I am running the 425lb spring they gave me initially. It seems to be sitting at 19mm on the shaft when at sag so I think it should be fine. I haven't mucked about with the rebound and compression settings at all, I might try that on my next ride and go from there. The traction seems there from the coil, I just want to really make sure I am using everything its got.


I meant to say this in my post above but I wonder whether shock manufacturers in general are erring on the side of caution, given the Druid's relatively meagre 130mm of travel.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

CHWK said:


> Yea, I am running the 425lb spring they gave me initially. It seems to be sitting at 19mm on the shaft when at sag so I think it should be fine. I haven't mucked about with the rebound and compression settings at all, I might try that on my next ride and go from there. The traction seems there from the coil, I just want to really make sure I am using everything its got.


How much do you weigh?

I went through this a few months ago with my Storia. 
I'm about 205lb walking around weight. and running a 425 and also have a 450. 
The 425 is amazing. (I believe I had posted my settings somewhere in this thread) 
Alba had originally sent me a 475 and 500. 
They were way to stiff, and swapped them out for me.

If you guys are lighter than me, I'm thinking you could probably even go lighter on the spring rate.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> How much do you weigh?
> 
> I went through this a few months ago with my Storia.
> I'm about 205lb walking around weight. and running a 425 and also have a 450.
> ...


I am about 200 more or less with gear on. Running the 425 on my Storia as I finally checked today is giving me about 35% sag. I also got mine from ALBA. Any recommendations on changes for the other settings? I've basically just left it how it came out of the box with the 425.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

CHWK said:


> I am about 200 more or less with gear on. Running the 425 on my Storia as I finally checked today is giving me about 35% sag. I also got mine from ALBA. Any recommendations on changes for the other settings? I've basically just left it how it came out of the box with the 425.


I haven't gotten to ride for awhile now. It's been full winter in the Okanagan for awhile. 
This is what I settled on. 
Was working well for me!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> I haven't gotten to ride for awhile now. It's been full winter in the Okanagan for awhile.
> This is what I settled on.
> Was working well for me!
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. I just went and checked my HSC/LSC because I thought that the shock was maybe a tad harsh. Turns out my HSC was completely closed. Still felt better that way than any other shock i've ridden. But curious to see how it goes now...


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> No tips but as an observation it seems that most are finding the recommended spring rate for the Druid to be too stiff. I am dropping from a 450 lb coil to a 425. I did not measure sag but I can tell that the stock air shock had more travel and was more plush then my 11-6 with the recommended 450 lb coil. I'm about 3 or 4 months away from trying the new spring but expect that I will like it much better.


I might try this as well. Same spring weight situation for me. Have 450, going to try the 425. More than anything, curious as to the overall ride feel as I am exactly on the cusp at ~185lbs.

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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> The majority of my riding buddies ride 29ers in the 130-150 rear travel range and see multiple Whistler days during the summer on their bikes. I guess it depends on the way you've got your bike built up but I have zero reservations about taking this bike to whistler on the regular and that is after only one ride on it. I have even more confidence about this bike being able to take the abuse after talking to two people at whistler during the summer who were riding the new Dreadnought in the park. One of them said they had taken their Druid to a ton of the parks here in BC and never had any issues. Seeing the way Lewis Buchanan hammered his Druid over the last year helps as well. To each their own I suppose. Hard to imagine having multiple bikes now tho after what I've spent on my druid so maybe that's just me haha


So how did the Dreadnought look? Pretty similar to the Druid just increased travel?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I might try this as well. Same spring weight situation for me. Have 450, going to try the 425. More than anything, curious as to the overall ride feel as I am exactly on the cusp at ~185lbs.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Me too. 185 without gear. The 450 is adequate but I ain't huckin to flat off 12 foot drops. I am almost certain the 425 is where I should have been all along. I kinda did a little step backwards going from the DPX2 to the 11-6. If it weren't for the squeak squeak squeak in that DPX2 that almost drove me mad (and the fire sale pricing of the 11-6 at the time), I never would have changed it.

Anyway, I am becoming more and more convinced that the shock manufacturers are going one spring weight up, out of an abundance of caution.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Me too. 185 without gear. The 450 is adequate but I ain't huckin to flat off 12 foot drops. I am almost certain the 425 is where I should have been all along. I kinda did a little step backwards going from the DPX2 to the 11-6. If it weren't for the squeak squeak squeak in that DPX2 that almost drove me mad (and the fire sale pricing of the 11-6 at the time), I never would have changed it.
> 
> Anyway, I am becoming more and more convinced that the shock manufacturers are going one spring weight up, out of an abundance of caution.


I was chatting with Alba about EXT last night and what I was feeling from the initial rides. They said they have been working with Mojo in the UK to refine the tunes on the EXT Storia for the Druid. The common thing they did say is that for sure people need to step down on the spring weight they normally run by 25-50lbs so it totally makes sense.


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## Argus (Jul 13, 2011)

Hello. I currently own a privateer 161 that I built this autumn. I like it very much although I only got to ride it 2-3 times before winter. I learned about the druid recently and felt in love with it, especially with the eggplant colour. I’d like to get one and build a 2nd bike. Just because. I don’t feel the need to replace my current bike, I love it very much but I always had big bikes (devinci hectik + nukeproof mega in 26’’). Would you go against the idea to start a second build with such a bike ? Or it could be a nice addition to have a trail bike too ?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Argus said:


> Hello. I currently own a privateer 161 that I built this autumn. I like it very much although I only got to ride it 2-3 times before winter. I learned about the druid recently and felt in love with it, especially with the eggplant colour. I'd like to get one and build a 2nd bike. Just because. I don't feel the need to replace my current bike, I love it very much but I always had big bikes (devinci hectik + nukeproof mega in 26''). Would you go against the idea to start a second build with such a bike ? Or it could be a nice addition to have a trail bike too ?


I think it depends how you build it up. You could build it up with lightweight parts and 140mm travel in the front as a trail bike. Or you could do like I did and build it into a mini enduro bike with coil front and back, 203 rotors, big tires and have a full on bruiser. I think the problem you might find is that you'll enjoy it too much to ride anything else  I just got off a 165mm rear travel Revel Rail and this bike feels way better than that ever did.


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## Argus (Jul 13, 2011)

Did you kept your revell ?? I was thinking of keeping the build at 150mm up front. The privateer is like a ford raptor, the druid is more of a golf r ?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Argus said:


> Did you kept your revell ?? I was thinking of keeping the build at 150mm up front. The privateer is like a ford raptor, the druid is more of a golf r ?


It's funny that you make that comparison because I drive a Golf R and I ride a Druid. I still have the revel frame. Trying to sell it at the moment. The Druid feels like just as much travel and a way more planted bike. Even after just a few rides in the rain I am sold. In fact I put down my second fastest time in the wet, stopping twice for hikers and a fairly gnarly section of local trail yesterday on the Druid. I never felt as comfortable on parts of that trail on the revel as I do on the druid.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

CHWK said:


> I was chatting with Alba about EXT last night and what I was feeling from the initial rides. They said they have been working with Mojo in the UK to refine the tunes on the EXT Storia for the Druid. The common thing they did say is that for sure people need to step down on the spring weight they normally run by 25-50lbs so it totally makes sense.





CHWK said:


> I was chatting with Alba about EXT last night and what I was feeling from the initial rides. They said they have been working with Mojo in the UK to refine the tunes on the EXT Storia for the Druid. The common thing they did say is that for sure people need to step down on the spring weight they normally run by 25-50lbs so it totally makes sense.


I'm around 200pounds and running 425# spring storia on my Druid, for reference same shock on evil offering I had a 525# spring


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Skeptastic said:


> If I were going to get an Offering V2, which people keep telling me will be just fine at the bike park (as a reason to not get the Wreckoning), you'd recommend getting the Druid instead, even for Bike Park use? It's so hard to imagine 130 mm of travel and the frame holding up to such use.
> 
> My gut says go Wreckoning or wait for the longer travel Forbidden bike. I just feel it's common for folks to recommend the mid-travel bikes for all-around use, whereas I'd prefer to have more dedicated rigs. I've enjoyed your posts quite a bit, seeing as you've owned a lot of the bikes I've been thinking about. The 2021 Mega 290 is the only one you haven't owned, actually, haha.


its easy to get hung up on one number, which in your case is rear suspension travel, when you have to consider the whole package. let's assume that all other things are equal on a hard tail bike, EXCEPT chainstay length. for the sake of the comparison lets go with 400mm and 450mm chainstays, respectively. now, run the rear wheel over a 20mm square edge. The bike with the shorter chainstay will experience a greater vertical movement at the bottom bracket than will the bike with the longer chainstay. odds are, the rider will feel the greater vertical movement and interpret it as "rougher."

fast forward to dual suspension bike, and the same remains true.

introduce rearward axle movement of and greater chainstay growth of a high pivot vs forward axle movement and lesser relative chainstay growth of a lower pivot and the sensation will be further exacerbated.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> its easy to get hung up on one number, which in your case is rear suspension travel, when you have to consider the whole package. let's assume that all other things are equal on a hard tail bike, EXCEPT chainstay length. for the sake of the comparison lets go with 400mm and 450mm chainstays, respectively. now, run the rear wheel over a 20mm square edge. The bike with the shorter chainstay will experience a greater vertical movement at the bottom bracket than will the bike with the longer chainstay. odds are, the rider will feel the greater vertical movement and interpret it as "rougher."
> 
> fast forward to dual suspension bike, and the same remains true.
> 
> introduce rearward axle movement of and greater chainstay growth of a high pivot vs forward axle movement and lesser relative chainstay growth of a lower pivot and the sensation will be further exacerbated.


So basically less travel is more with the Druid because of the way the suspension moves. Would you say the 130 travel is equivalent to like 150-160 of your typical rear suspension design?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> So basically less travel is more with the Druid because of the way the suspension moves. Would you say the 130 travel is equivalent to like 150-160 of your typical rear suspension design?


As far as I can tell and have heard from others, yes, this is the case. The two people I talked to who were riding the Dreadnought said it felt like a downhill bike and that is rumoured at 150-160mm rear travel. I'd say the druid feels like 150/160 in the rear with a coil.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

damn so the Dreadnought will probably feel damn near bottomless.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> damn so the Dreadnought will probably feel damn near bottomless.


Guess so. Probably a good or bad thing depending on what you ride all the time. For me the Druid makes the most sense. I still have no reservations about taking it to the bike parks, but for my local trails it is more than enough.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Guess so. Probably a good or bad thing depending on what you ride all the time. For me the Druid makes the most sense. I still have no reservations about taking it to the bike parks, but for my local trails it is more than enough.


yeah i hear you...depending on what you're trying to ride there is def such a thing as too much.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Got a really solid ride on the bike today. Smashed a PR on a black downhill trail called Dilemma by 10 seconds today in heavy rainfall. This bike truly is absurd in all the good ways. Can't wait to see what I can do on it in the dry.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Anyone have an idea when large cosmic eggplant frames are shipping out? I ordered through Fanatik back in June, and was told an eta of December. 

Between reading this thread and seeing a pile of parts just collecting dust in my bike room, I’m starting to get impatient


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Anyone have an idea when large cosmic eggplant frames are shipping out? I ordered through Fanatik back in June, and was told an eta of December.
> 
> Between reading this thread and seeing a pile of parts just collecting dust in my bike room, I'm starting to get impatient


Probably never. I bought one that was on allocation at a shop in october that was due to arrive November week 1, then week 2, then December week 1, etc etc when the container finally showed up the eggplant wasn't in it. Apparently they come from a different paint factory. The shop offered me a blue steel frame which I took as there was no guarantee when the eggplant would show. They said 2 weeks but maybe more. I put some purple overlays on the blue lettering on the frame and actually love the way it looks. As much as I'd have loved to have the eggplant, it wasn't the end of the world, but the wait was getting ridiculous.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

jay_paradox said:


> So basically less travel is more with the Druid because of the way the suspension moves. Would you say the 130 travel is equivalent to like 150-160 of your typical rear suspension design?


Good question...but still fixating on just one variable. maybe when you are comparing single pivot to single pivot that is a fair statement. But when you start comparing multi-link suspensions such as Horst, VPP or DW link (that move the instant center forward to way forward) to single pivot then that muddies and waters. Moving the instance center way forward changes the rear axle path also.

Forbidden markets this bike as an "aggressive" trail bike. That's what it is. It's not a mini DH bike, but certainly capable of pointing it to the center of the earth with reckless abandon.

Also----the "bike park" notion....if we exclude Whistler, 99% of trails at 99% of bike parks are more than suited for a trail bike....there is a major difference between "lift served" and "downhill" when it comes to a bike park. If it is capable of being pedaled up, its just an XC trail in the opposite direction with a one way sign.


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Well everyone. Fedex decided to play nice yesterday and bring me a surprise early delivery. Got it all built up last night. Originally I had ordered a Eggplant purple frame, but due to shipping issues and what not it could have been another 6 weeks or so that I wasn't willing to wait as its already been 3 months since I initially ordered it. I made due and created some purple overlays on all the artwork on the frame and I think it matches nicely with my custom painted lyrik lowers.
> 
> View attachment 1909142
> 
> ...


Just looking at this bike again...

10/10.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Forbidden just made an instagram post with what appears to be the dreadnaught and comments about releasing "soon"


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Forbidden just made an instagram post with what appears to be the dreadnaught and comments about releasing "soon"


38 on the front and a coil dhx2 on the rear. Sure looks like it. That is gonna be a beast of a bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> 38 on the front and a coil dhx2 on the rear. Sure looks like it. That is gonna be a beast of a bike.


My LBS told me a while ago that this is pretty much a park/shuttle only bike. Pretty beefy for trail riding. Not nearly as good as the Druid outside of those limited applications. Guess we shall soon find out...


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

CHWK said:


> 38 on the front and a coil dhx2 on the rear. Sure looks like it. That is gonna be a beast of a bike.


If it actually has a longer reach as its rumored to my 6'6" self may have to pull the trigger. want a druid but that 485 reach in an XL.. OOF


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> If it actually has a longer reach as its rumored to my 6'6" self may have to pull the trigger. want a druid but that 485 reach in an XL.. OOF


I gotta say, I was really worried about the reach numbers when I looked at on the Geometry chart. However, when I got it I was pleasantly surprised that it feels really roomy. Like way more so than I ever expected it to. Would longer be nicer, maybe. Totally necessary? Probably not.

The Druid really is a bizarre bike in that the numbers on paper don't translate in the slightest to how it actually feels when riding it.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

CHWK said:


> I gotta say, I was really worried about the reach numbers when I looked at on the Geometry chart. However, when I got it I was pleasantly surprised that it feels really roomy. Like way more so than I ever expected it to. Would longer be nicer, maybe. Totally necessary? Probably not.
> 
> The Druid really is a bizarre bike in that the numbers on paper don't translate in the slightest to how it actually feels when riding it.


Interesting take. How tall are you/what size are you on? I got told by the guys at Fanatik not to even bother with an XL druid at 6'6"


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Interesting take. How tall are you/what size are you on? I got told by the guys at Fanatik not to even bother with an XL druid at 6'6"


I'm 6' with my riding shoes on. Running a size large. Maybe if they're telling you that then there is some merit to it haha

Just from my experience the bike feels really nice and balanced. It's always so hard to tell with bikes like this where you rarely have the chance to try before you buy.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My LBS told me a while ago that this is pretty much a park/shuttle only bike. Pretty beefy for trail riding. Not nearly as good as the Druid outside of those limited applications. Guess we shall soon find out...


It's surely beefier than a Druid, but it doesn't make sense that Forbidden build a park/shuttle only bike: Lewis was testing it in Enduro format so climbing ability is key. Forbidden are a small company, park / shuttle bikes have a narrower customer base (imo) vs an Enduro bike design which has far wider appeal (Spec Enduro sold very well).
I think as a small company they'll have an amazing two bike offering for aggressive trail and Enduro / all mountain riding customers.

The travel and geo of the Druid has been the only thing holding me back, and I expect to be on the LT version this Spring as a one bike solution. Not super crazy about the Dreadnought name but whatever, can't wait to hit my local trails with it (sea to sky corridor).


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> It's surely beefier than a Druid, but it doesn't make sense that Forbidden build a park/shuttle only bike: Lewis was testing it in Enduro format so climbing ability is key. Forbidden are a small company, park / shuttle bikes have a narrower customer base (imo) vs an Enduro bike design which has far wider appeal (Spec Enduro sold very well).
> I think as a small company they'll have an amazing two bike offering for aggressive trail and Enduro / all mountain riding customers.
> 
> The travel and geo of the Druid has been the only thing holding me back, and I expect to be on the LT version this Spring as a one bike solution. Not super crazy about the Dreadnought name but whatever, can't wait to hit my local trails with it (sea to sky corridor).


I'm gonna keep saying this over and over, but the numbers on paper don't translate to the way the Druid fits and rides in the real world. Running mine as a mullet and it puts the head tube right where you want it for every day riding. The travel feels bigger than it is, and with the right fork you could run 160 on the front. Again, I think it depends how you build it up.

Also, don't forget that Lewis was bashing the Druid around through crazy stuff long before the bigger bike came along. I am sure the new bike will be great, but with the druid billed as aggressive trail, bordering on enduro, the new dreadnought is probably going to be up there in the aggressive enduro/freeride realm. I am sure it will pedal decent, but that suspension platform is going to feel pretty hefty and endless. I am sure the weight is going to be up there as well.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I'm gonna keep saying this over and over, but the numbers on paper don't translate to the way the Druid fits and rides in the real world. Running mine as a mullet and it puts the head tube right where you want it for every day riding. The travel feels bigger than it is, and with the right fork you could run 160 on the front. Again, I think it depends how you build it up.
> 
> Also, don't forget that Lewis was bashing the Druid around through crazy stuff long before the bigger bike came along. I am sure the new bike will be great, but with the druid billed as aggressive trail, bordering on enduro, the new dreadnought is probably going to be up there in the aggressive enduro/freeride realm. I am sure it will pedal decent, but that suspension platform is going to feel pretty hefty and endless. I am sure the weight is going to be up there as well.


Well I've seen plenty of Druids on the Shore and in Squamish, so clearly many folks are enjoying them here. I've placed my bet on the LT version and will see how it goes and if I get out of it what I'm looking for in a new bike. The great thing is the parts can transfer over to a Druid if I feel it's overkill.

I demo'd a Spec Enduro several times and really liked the bike, but in the end was looking for a frame build (no Enduro frames in 2020 in Canada) and wanted to try a different suspension design so decided to wait it out instead.

I just hope we see more info soon, it was Feb 2020 they dropped the design drawing as a hint to a new frame, but if course Covid came along.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Well I've seen plenty of Druids on the Shore and in Squamish, so clearly many folks are enjoying them here. I've placed my bet on the LT version and will see how it goes and if I get out of it what I'm looking for in a new bike. The great thing is the parts can transfer over to a Druid if I feel it's overkill.
> 
> I demo'd a Spec Enduro several times and really liked the bike, but in the end was looking for a frame build (no Enduro frames in 2020 in Canada) and wanted to try a different suspension design so decided to wait it out instead.
> 
> I just hope we see more info soon, it was Feb 2020 they dropped the design drawing as a hint to a new frame, but if course Covid came along.


I've weirdly seen more of the new bike in person that I have Druids. I think i've seen one Druid out here in the valley.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

CHWK said:


> I've weirdly seen more of the new bike in person that I have Druids. I think i've seen one Druid out here in the valley.


I'm quietly hoping the new bike drops with a full review on PB in the next couple days... They keep hinting at it, but then again have been for months.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I'm quietly hoping the new bike drops with a full review on PB in the next couple days... They keep hinting at it, but then again have been for months.


I mean, even once they announce it, there is no guarantee they'll be shipping right away. The way the industry is, and with them being such a small company, I don't expect we'll see frames in peoples hand until years end. Who knows, maybe they'll pull a surprise.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I mean, even once they announce it, there is no guarantee they'll be shipping right away. The way the industry is, and with them being such a small company, I don't expect we'll see frames in peoples hand until years end. Who knows, maybe they'll pull a surprise.


I agree anything is possible, I have planned on availability this Spring, guess I'll find out if I'm right or if I should grab my parts bin and take it elsewhere or sit tight and wait .... Given the size of the company though I'm expecting the first batch to be quite limited.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> I agree anything is possible, I have planned on availability this Spring, guess I'll find out if I'm right or if I should grab my parts bin and take it elsewhere or sit tight and wait .... Given the size of the company though I'm expecting the first batch to be quite limited.


Kinda makes we want to get an early allocation just for the sake of it


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> I mean, even once they announce it, there is no guarantee they'll be shipping right away. The way the industry is, and with them being such a small company, I don't expect we'll see frames in peoples hand until years end. Who knows, maybe they'll pull a surprise.


The word is...the Dreadnaught will drop in March. I expect that may be extended another half dozen times, but that's the current word, as far as I know.

The word also is...We Are One's new bike will drop next month.

Which brings me to my question...

Thanks to CHWK, my stock matte black frame will soon have Fox orange decals (which I will apply over my Ride Wrap and the stock off white decals). My Druid will be unleashed in the spring in mullet form. Ordering new WAO Union wheels right now.

Do I go with orange I9 Hydra hubs and orange nipples to complete the look, or keep things a little more chill, versatile and less expensive, with I9 1/1 black hubs and black nipples?

This will be my first experience with I9. To date, all I have used is DT Swiss 240s and 350s.

Any opinions (aesthetic wise or whether Hydras are worth the extra cash over 1/1s) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The word is...the Dreadnaught will drop in March. I expect that may be extended another half dozen times, but that's the current word, as far as I know.
> 
> The word also is...We Are One's new bike will drop next month.
> 
> ...


Where are you hearing march? When i contacted them i was told just after the holidays, but that was a few weeks ago.
I really want to wait for this to see if its going to be my new bike, but also don't want to wait too long and not have something built up by late spring.

re I9s - I like simple personally. The hydras are supposed to be a huge step up from the lower end hubs. I had a set of their enduro s30 wheels and they didnt hold up well at all. Switched to stans mk3s/hopes but i'm also a large aggressive rider. Have lots of friends on the hydra setups that love em.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The word is...the Dreadnaught will drop in March. I expect that may be extended another half dozen times, but that's the current word, as far as I know.
> 
> The word also is...We Are One's new bike will drop next month.
> 
> ...


I ended up going with the 101s instead of Hydra upgrade for this new build. Don't know if it was a fluke, but a friend on Hydras hasn't had a great experience with them one year in (PNW based so lots of wet riding). He was able to rebuild with warranty coverage and is hoping things get better. Another friend on 101s has had zero issues. 
I wanted to stay with DT Swiss hubs but was told unless I could find stock, new orders were at least 6mo away.
I had i9s years ago, they were fine until about -15c then would drag a bit.

I've heard news release from Forbidden will be this month with Feb/Mar availability.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

HubbaMan said:


> I ended up going with the 101s instead of Hydra upgrade for this new build. Don't know if it was a fluke, but a friend on Hydras hasn't had a great experience with them one year in (PNW based so lots of wet riding). He was able to rebuild with warranty coverage and is hoping things get better. Another friend on 101s has had zero issues.
> I wanted to stay with DT Swiss hubs but was told unless I could find stock, new orders were at least 6mo away.
> I had i9s years ago, they were fine until about -15c then would drag a bit.
> 
> I've heard news release from Forbidden will be this month with Feb/Mar availability.


I sent them a DM on instagram this morning asking and got told "more info coming atcha next month"


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

HubbaMan said:


> I ended up going with the 101s instead of Hydra upgrade for this new build. Don't know if it was a fluke, but a friend on Hydras hasn't had a great experience with them one year in (PNW based so lots of wet riding). He was able to rebuild with warranty coverage and is hoping things get better. Another friend on 101s has had zero issues.
> I wanted to stay with DT Swiss hubs but was told unless I could find stock, new orders were at least 6mo away.
> I had i9s years ago, they were fine until about -15c then would drag a bit.
> 
> I've heard news release from Forbidden will be this month with Feb/Mar availability.


Yes. Early March is what I heard. But who really knows, right? My fat bikes were a month late getting here.

Re the hubs, I am close to throwing down on orange Hydras with orange spoke nipples, which will hopefully go well with the new orange decal set en route from CHWK

Hoping to get it looking close to this:








:


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I sent them a DM on instagram this morning asking and got told "more info coming atcha next month"


Thanks for the update!


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Yes. Early March is what I heard. But who really knows, right? My fat bikes were a month late getting here.
> 
> Re the hubs, I am close to throwing down on orange Hydras with orange spoke nipples, which will hopefully go well with the new orange decal set en route from CHWK
> 
> ...


Orange hubs and nipples would look pretty sick with that colour scheme. 
I'm just aiming for all black expect for Kashima on the 38, rear shock (guessing X2), fox transfer and gold XX1 cassette. Wanted a gold chain but was told June!!


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

So i have had my Druid for a couple of months now, I think it needed a shuttle downtube protector. So i made this one! anyone who has a truck knows even with the Ridewrap you can still damage the film or wear through it.

I am toying with the ideas on how to make the lower hatch or cover open up easier, and maybe something to to cover the the open area behind the rear fender.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> So i have had my Druid for a couple of months now, I think it needed a shuttle downtube protector. So i made this one! anyone who has a truck knows even with the Ridewrap you can still damage the film or wear through it.
> 
> I am toying with the ideas on how to make the lower hatch or cover open up easier, and maybe something to to cover the the open area behind the rear fender.


This is the best reason to have a 3D printer. My problem is I have one, but never have had the interest in trying to learn to build models or engineer anything. Nice work!

If you ever had any interest in doing an extended rear fender in black ABS I'd totally pay you for one!


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

CHWK said:


> This is the best reason to have a 3D printer. My problem is I have one, but never have had the interest in trying to learn to build models or engineer anything. Nice work!
> 
> If you ever had any interest in doing an extended rear fender in black ABS I'd totally pay you for one!


Do you just want it longer or do you want it to protect that open area between the seat tube and the swing arm brace?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Darkstar187 said:


> Do you just want it longer or do you want it to protect that open area between the seat tube and the swing arm brace?


Not entirely sure. Seems like if it was longer it would probably do a better job. (obligatory that's what she said)


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Darkstar187 said:


> I am toying with the ideas on how to make the lower hatch or cover open up easier, and maybe something to to cover the the open area behind the rear fender.


assuming that the code and 3d printer can make the proximal end of the hatch sandwich the CF of the down tube, a simple thumbscrew with a plastic head can be used to secure the distal end of the hatch. the distal end is, to some degree, protected by the chainring and bash guard. the plastic head on the thumb screw should absorb unlikely impact rather than distributing it to the boss that is molded into the CF.

been thinking of the same thing myself. bonus points for a "rattle free clip" on the internal side that can secure a der hanger. I currently have mine gorilla taped to the inside of the door right next to a spare AXS battery.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

tdc_worm said:


> assuming that the code and 3d printer can make the proximal end of the hatch sandwich the CF of the down tube, a simple thumbscrew with a plastic head can be used to secure the distal end of the hatch. the distal end is, to some degree, protected by the chainring and bash guard. the plastic head on the thumb screw should absorb unlikely impact rather than distributing it to the boss that is molded into the CF.
> 
> been thinking of the same thing myself. bonus points for a "rattle free clip" on the internal side that can secure a der hanger. I currently have mine gorilla taped to the inside of the door right next to a spare AXS battery.


I am forsure trying to figure out a quick way to get to that back bolt and keep the front one as a pivot point so that the stock over can just spin left or right to get you into the compartment. Thumb screw is a good idea the thing with printing it is thing are just pretty fragile when they get that small. Magnets can be a viable option if they are strong enough.



CHWK said:


> Not entirely sure. Seems like if it was longer it would probably do a better job. (obligatory that's what she said)


I have a modeled longer fender as well as a like adjustable extender where the stock fender attaches to the frame to eat up some of that space between it and the seat tube.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Had my ziggy druid about two months. Absolutely in love. This thing is a mini dh bike that pedals like a hardtail. Its crazy. 

Had it out in st george utah recently and took it on flying moneky (chunky dh gnar) and it made short work of that trail. 

My ext is getting retooled for it and is stuck in the mail right now but I cant wait to get it on there. Any ext setup tips?

I told myself i wanted a bigger bike but kept coming back to this and that 130 mm feels so bottomless its crazy. 

The only reason i wouldnt do a ton of park on it is due to maintenance.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Darkstar187 said:


> Thumb screw is a good idea the thing with printing it is thing are just pretty fragile when they get that small. Magnets can be a viable option if they are strong enough.


no need to reinvent the wheel with a thumb screw. tons of options on amazon and ebay. the existing hex head screw is an m5x0.8

full alloy seems to have the most low profile head, but would distribute impact to the boss. these seem to be about 5mm in height.

there are also full nylon or nylon head with an alloy shank, but the heads. most of these heads are about 10mm in height.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Any leads on a ziggy link anywhere? Love the bike as it sits, but wanting to try a mullet setup for myself.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Any leads on a ziggy link anywhere? Love the bike as it sits, but wanting to try a mullet setup for myself.


See post #2139. I have to go there Sunday. They are closed today and tomorrow. Do you want me to check whether they have any left and whether they would be willing to ship to you? If so, PM me with your city. Last time I was there (when I grabbed mine), they had about 4 or 5 on the shelf.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

That would be awesome. Sending you a PM now. Thanks


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

The mullet set up is great. Highly recommend to everyone. It put's that geometry in a prime spot. So good.


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

Thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread -- certainly one of the best discussions I've come across on MTBR, both in substance and tone. Knowing that folks on MTBR are sifting through all the nuances of the bike is a major enticement to owning a Druid (or any future Forbidden).

Sizing question for tall and lanky Druid owners. I'm 190cm/6'3" with a +5cm/2" armspan, and slightly concerned (from the discussions I've seen on the Forbidden Druid FB page) that I might be above recommended sizing for the XL Druid. While the 485mm reach on the XL is within the same range as trail bikes I've rode in the past couple years, I've generally used a 60-65mm stem to compensate for those bikes feeling a little short otherwise. Generally I find that I need a 500+mm reach in order to run a proper 50mm stem. Would running a longer stem on the Druid take away from some of the feel of the bike? Or would I find that the longer chainstays, and the way the bike retains wheelbase length as it moves through the travel, negates the need for a longer stem? I know Forbidden's size chart recommends the XL frame for folks up to 198cm height, so they must have had some taller folks testing it. Any thoughts?


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

When I bought the Druid I thought it would just be another bike. It didn't take me long to realize this was something quite different. It's the first bike I've personally had that I felt was worthy of basing a dream build on.
So , this is my dream.
Build -
Large Blue Steel Druid Frame
EXT Storia Lok 425lb spring
Marzocchi Z1 coil , firm with Grip2 damper (Custom decals)
SLX 12 speed drive train
Weareone bar/stem combo
Magura MT7 with HC3 levers and 203 rotors (centerlock)
Oneup 180 dropper
Weareone Union wheels with I9 Hydra
Magic Mary SG Ultrasoft front
Big Betty SG soft rear
Chromag Dagga flats
Oneup EDC tool in steerer tube
PNW loam lever
Specialized Phenom saddle
Sensus disisdaboss grips









Had a good day at Vedder, need to play with the shock tune a bit.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> When I bought the Druid I thought it would just be another bike. It didn't take me long to realize this was something quite different. It's the first bike I've personally had that I felt was worthy of basing a dream build on.
> So , this is my dream.
> Build -
> Large Blue Steel Druid Frame
> ...


Hey. I also ride at vedder and have a steel druid with a Storia


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

CHWK said:


> Hey. I also ride at vedder and have a steel druid with a Storia
> 
> View attachment 1910693


Lol, went up to the where skidder starts twice after a while off the bike. Def feel it in the legs!
I felt a bit of a hard bottom in my shock a couple times , any suggestions on setup for the Storia ?
The bike was amazing other than that and it is Vedder so maybe that's just gonna happen.
I'm 200lbs on the 425 spring, sag is 33 percent.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> Lol, went up to the where skidder starts twice after a while off the bike. Def feel it in the legs!
> I felt a bit of a hard bottom in my shock a couple times , any suggestions on setup for the Storia ?
> The bike was amazing other than that and it is Vedder so maybe that's just gonna happen.
> I'm 200lbs on the 425 spring, sag is 33 percent.


I'm currently dealing with dialing mine in as well and have been feeling it in my legs. I'm basically the same weight with gear on. Currently on the 425 spring with my HSC and LSC wide open. Alba is sending me a 400 spring to try out next. I'd double check that your HSC isn't closed all the way as mine was out of the box.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

CHWK said:


> I'm currently dealing with dialing mine in as well and have been feeling it in my legs. I'm basically the same weight with gear on. Currently on the 425 spring with my HSC and LSC wide open. Alba is sending me a 400 spring to try out next. I'd double check that your HSC isn't closed all the way as mine was out of the box.


I had mine wide open on advice from Alba, added 2 clicks at the bottom of the hill. Second run was better but still need need more I think. I'm 6 clicks from open now, try again this week and see.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> I had mine wide open on advice from Alba, added 2 clicks at the bottom of the hill. Second run was better but still need need more I think. I'm 6 clicks from open now, try again this week and see.


If you ever want to go for a test and tune ride let me know!


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## nomad8604 (May 22, 2010)

gubbinalia said:


> Thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread -- certainly one of the best discussions I've come across on MTBR, both in substance and tone. Knowing that folks on MTBR are sifting through all the nuances of the bike is a major enticement to owning a Druid (or any future Forbidden).
> 
> Sizing question for tall and lanky Druid owners. I'm 190cm/6'3" with a +5cm/2" armspan, and slightly concerned (from the discussions I've seen on the Forbidden Druid FB page) that I might be above recommended sizing for the XL Druid. While the 485mm reach on the XL is within the same range as trail bikes I've rode in the past couple years, I've generally used a 60-65mm stem to compensate for those bikes feeling a little short otherwise. Generally I find that I need a 500+mm reach in order to run a proper 50mm stem. Would running a longer stem on the Druid take away from some of the feel of the bike? Or would I find that the longer chainstays, and the way the bike retains wheelbase length as it moves through the travel, negates the need for a longer stem? I know Forbidden's size chart recommends the XL frame for folks up to 198cm height, so they must have had some taller folks testing it. Any thoughts?


I am your same height and lanky. I was concerned about the reach as well as I came off a Ripmo Gen 1. with a 500mm reach. I can say that the XL Druid feels just as long to me as my Ripmo, and I am running a 50mm. stem.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

gubbinalia said:


> Sizing question for tall and lanky Druid owners. I'm 190cm/6'3" with a +5cm/2" armspan, and slightly concerned (from the discussions I've seen on the Forbidden Druid FB page) that I might be above recommended sizing for the XL Druid. While the 485mm reach on the XL is within the same range as trail bikes I've rode in the past couple years...


i'll argue the other side, especially if you go Ziggy, which reduces the reach to 480mm on an XL. i'm 73", shaped like a spider monkey with a +5" ape index. i wouldn't go any shorter, and i don't like the idea of using a stem to correct geo...i think it should be as close to your offset as possible, but that's me.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Hey. I also ride at vedder and have a steel druid with a Storia
> 
> View attachment 1910693


how do you rate the stoira? i have deposit down for the new long travel and seriously considering this as my rear shock.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> how do you rate the stoira? i have deposit down for the new long travel and seriously considering this as my rear shock.


Just do it. Trust me. No regrets.


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

Thanks to you both for reading and responding -- good to get multiple perspectives! 



nomad8604 said:


> I am your same height and lanky. I was concerned about the reach as well as I came off a Ripmo Gen 1. with a 500mm reach. I can say that the XL Druid feels just as long to me as my Ripmo, and I am running a 50mm. stem.


That's a useful comparison. Why do you think the Druid isn't affected by 15mm less reach? Is it a wheelbase thing, or does the higher stack help, or something else? I haven't spent much time on the Ripmo, but the v1 Ripmo and v4 Ripley aren't too far off in geo, and I rode the Ripley for much of last summer.



tdc_worm said:


> i'll argue the other side, especially if you go Ziggy, which reduces the reach to 480mm on an XL. i'm 73", shaped like a spider monkey with a +5" ape index. i wouldn't go any shorter, and i don't like the idea of using a stem to correct geo...i think it should be as close to your offset as possible, but that's me.


Wow, a real lanky boy! +5" would make you a good rock climber or something. I'm not planning to use the Ziggy Link if I build a Druid (after almost a decade riding 29ers, I'd take a 32" front wheel before I'd take a 27.5" rear), but it's interesting to hear that you're finding the reach to be on the shorter side. Totally agree that compensating for shorter cockpit numbers with a longer stem has a habit of neutering steering.

Anyone have thoughts on whether Forbidden's new bike, which will presumably be 20-30mm longer per size, would be a better choice if the reach on the Druid is borderline too short? My sense is that the Druid has more than enough travel for what I ride, but if I'm going to build up a high-pivot bike I want it to feel stable and balanced more than I want it to feel nimble and quick.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

gubbinalia said:


> Wow, a real lanky boy! +5" would make you a good rock climber or something. I'm not planning to use the Ziggy Link if I build a Druid (after almost a decade riding 29ers, I'd take a 32" front wheel before I'd take a 27.5" rear), but it's interesting to hear that you're finding the reach to be on the shorter side. Totally agree that compensating for shorter cockpit numbers with a longer stem has a habit of neutering steering.


Yup...my torso is so short that when i sit down to a normally proportioned person that is 5'8" we have the same head height, haha. Nope, on the rock climbing, at 215lbs, there is nothing about this body that goes up efficiently!

I've been on 29ers since the very first Niner WFO and have zero issue managing the wheel size, other than being able to knock the bigger hoop out of true much easier. I am also a firm believer that if you are on the brakes like most of us mere mortals, then any advantage of wheel size/speed is negated.

My pursuit of Ziggy had everything to do with the 450mm chainstay PLUS nearly 25mm rearward axle path of the XL. With suspension compression, the CS grows and the BB drops even further below the rear axle line, making it surprisingly difficult to lift the front wheel in technical, quick reaction situations...especially in compressions or pointed down hill. going 650b in the rear helps to mitigate that to some degree, by reducing the BB drop. YMMV


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

I have a friend who has a new bike on pre-order and he's been told he will have his frame Late Feb.


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Has anyone had any issues with the back axle coming loose? It has happened to me twice now in 160ish km


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the back axle coming loose? It has happened to me twice now in 160ish km


Yea, mine has come loose once in 600mi. There have been other reports on here and the FB group too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Has anyone had any issues with the back axle coming loose? It has happened to me twice now in 160ish km


use some waterproof grease on your axle. even though the endcaps are stationary, the inner race of the bearing and/or the axle sleeve can still cause friction on the axle itself.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> I have a friend who has a dreadnought on pre-order and he's been told he will have his frame Late Feb.


I ordered my druid mid October and was told first week of November. Got it December 29th soooo... we'll see how true that ends up being haha


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## xhellcat (Dec 24, 2017)

blackaptur-photo said:


> I have a friend who has a dreadnought on pre-order and he's been told he will have his frame Late Feb.


Where can you preorder?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> My pursuit of Ziggy had everything to do with the 450mm chainstay PLUS nearly 25mm rearward axle path of the XL. With suspension compression, the CS grows and the BB drops even further below the rear axle line, making it surprisingly difficult to lift the front wheel in technical, quick reaction situations...especially in compressions or pointed down hill. going 650b in the rear helps to mitigate that to some degree, by reducing the BB drop. YMMV


Now that is verrrry interesting... I hadn't considered the effect of the size-specific chainstay on the XL, when coupled with the "true" rearward axle path, would make the bike so long it would be hard to manual/lift the front wheel. But, now that you mention it, that makes sense. Still not sure I would be able to adapt to the mullet, but certainly worth a thought.

What are folks guessing the rough geo will be on the Dreadnought?


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Just saw Eggplant Druids in stock at Fanatik!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Thrawn said:


> Just saw Eggplant Druids in stock at Fanatik!


I recently asked about XL frames in the other colors and they said they had 1 of each that were not spoken for coming in the next shipment, which was due in this week hopefully. So they will have at least 1 XL blue steel, the brownstone is spoken for.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

gubbinalia said:


> What are folks guessing the rough geo will be on the Dreadnought?



~64 degree head angle if used with a 170mm travel fork
154mm rear travel
Longer reach than the Druid at any given size, 480-485 in a large


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> ~64 degree head angle if used with a 170mm travel fork
> 154mm rear travel
> Longer reach than the Druid at any given size, 480-485 in a large


Goodness gracious. That's going to be one heck of a bike.

Given what TDC and others are saying about the length and plantedness of the Druid when at full compression, I'm thinking the XL Dreadnought would probably be TOO long for my purposes. But I do like the idea of longer reach for sure...


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

gubbinalia said:


> Goodness gracious. That's going to be one heck of a bike.
> 
> Given what TDC and others are saying about the length and plantedness of the Druid when at full compression, I'm thinking the XL Dreadnought would probably be TOO long for my purposes. But I do like the idea of longer reach for sure...


I'm right there with ya. 6'6" and having a hard time i'll feel comfortable on an XL druid coming off a 515mm reach guerrilla gravity smash. I don't like feeling "on top" of the bike vs "in" the cockpit. 
I've ridden bikes that were too small my entire life until i got this Smash, but obsessed with high pivot and rear axle path of the Forbidden design. 
Really excited to see the geo of the Dreadnought in XL but wondering if it'll be way too much bike to pedal in the PNW.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Why don't you guys get longer stems?


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

meeeeep said:


> Why don't you guys get longer stems?


How long of a stem would you recommend?


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## nomad8604 (May 22, 2010)

gubbinalia said:


> Thanks to you both for reading and responding -- good to get multiple perspectives!
> 
> That's a useful comparison. Why do you think the Druid isn't affected by 15mm less reach? Is it a wheelbase thing, or does the higher stack help, or something else? I haven't spent much time on the Ripmo, but the v1 Ripmo and v4 Ripley aren't too far off in geo, and I rode the Ripley for much of last summer.
> 
> ...


Depends on what your daily rides are like . I'm putting my Druid through the paces and ride double diamonds at our local spot with no issues . I'd say their new bike is going to be an absolute heavy hitter and would only consider it if the steeps of the shore / BC were my trails or if it was my dedicated park bike . I have yet to feel the rear bottom where my Ripmo clapped regularly and i have no trouble keeping up with people on Patrols and the similar . Just my .02


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nomad8604 said:


> Depends on what your daily rides are like . I'm putting my Druid through the paces and ride double diamonds at our local spot with no issues . I'd say their new bike is going to be an absolute heavy hitter and would only consider it if the steeps of the shore / BC were my trails or if it was my dedicated park bike . I have yet to feel the rear bottom where my Ripmo clapped regularly and i have no trouble keeping up with people on Patrols and the similar . Just my .02


100% consistent with what I know. The Dreadnaught is going to be a bruiser. I was told point blank that it's not what I am after.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

tdc_worm said:


> How long of a stem would you recommend?


How about a 65mm?


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

nomad8604 said:


> Depends on what your daily rides are like . I'm putting my Druid through the paces and ride double diamonds at our local spot with no issues . I'd say their new bike is going to be an absolute heavy hitter and would only consider it if the steeps of the shore / BC were my trails or if it was my dedicated park bike . I have yet to feel the rear bottom where my Ripmo clapped regularly and i have no trouble keeping up with people on Patrols and the similar . Just my .02


i have a deposit on the dreadnought.

my local rides are like light black some darker black. however when we shuttle or go to a bike park where a lot of what I ride is double black and dh trails. I see it as worthwhile for the type of riding i do. horses for courses.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

meeeeep said:


> Why don't you guys get longer stems?


Personally, I have PTSD from the 150mm stems I used to roll in the 90s. 
_The horror. The horror._


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Personally, I have PTSD from the 150mm stems I used to roll in the 90s.
> _The horror. The horror._


Yea... I'm never going back to anything over 40 haha


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

nomad8604 said:


> Depends on what your daily rides are like . I'm putting my Druid through the paces and ride double diamonds at our local spot with no issues . I'd say their new bike is going to be an absolute heavy hitter and would only consider it if the steeps of the shore / BC were my trails or if it was my dedicated park bike . I have yet to feel the rear bottom where my Ripmo clapped regularly and i have no trouble keeping up with people on Patrols and the similar . Just my .02


Seeing as Fromme on the Shore here is a 15min ride from my house I think the Dreadnought will suit me just fine!
Those geo estimates sound pretty good, the design drawing dropped almost a year ago showed a 63.5 HTA iirc. The pic should be somewhere in this thread.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Seeing as Fromme on the Shore here is a 15min ride from my house I think the Dreadnought will suit me just fine!
> Those geo estimates sound pretty good, the design drawing dropped almost a year ago showed a 63.5 HTA iirc. The pic should be somewhere in this thread.


I wonder if it's like the druid though in the sense that you could run either a 160 or a 170 fork. Also, we know it will be Ziggy link compatible so that headtube angle may change depending on set up. I literally just got my druid, but seeing more and more of the new steed I feel I'm being sucked into the "I gotta have it" crowd. Maybe built it up as a park rat bike? Haha


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> How about a 65mm?


Right, that's exactly what I have on two of my bikes currently (since it's the longest stem I can find offered in a 35mm clamp, and I'm addicted to the Chromag BZA 35 bar, so... 65 it is!) but it's not an ideal match for newer-school geo, and especially, it seems to match poorly with shorter-offset forks. A 65mm stem with a 42 or 44mm offset fork kind of feels like combining two opposite design philosophies -- the longer stem makes the front end turn more quickly, while the short-offset fork wants more of a "turn with the hips" kind of style. And a 65mm stem with a traditional 51mm offset just feels like an XC bike after riding a more modern front end. There's not an exact reach number at which I feel I can start using a 40-50mm stem confidently, but generally anything over 500mm will do it for me. That said, I'm wondering if the longer reach center on the Druid would allow me to run a shorter stem and still feel like I'm balanced between the axles, not pushed too far over the back. The more I think about it, though, while a stable bike with a roomy cockpit is ideal, I'd rather run a slightly too-long stem and still have a bike that feels like it can bob and weave through corners like a tech-carving trail bike, than stake my entire sizing rationale on having a shorter stem and end up with a "plow-and-pray"-style enduro bike that I can't justify using anywhere but the bike park. I'd love to get hard and fast numbers on the Dreadnought before I shell out coin for the Druid, but I think I'll probably end up with a Druid. Now if only Forbidden brought back that sexy matte black colorway from 2019...


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I wonder if it's like the druid though in the sense that you could run either a 160 or a 170 fork. Also, we know it will be Ziggy link compatible so that headtube angle may change depending on set up. I literally just got my druid, but seeing more and more of the new steed I feel I'm being sucked into the "I gotta have it" crowd. Maybe built it up as a park rat bike? Haha


The idea of a few geo options would be cool, I'm aiming to start with the fork at 170 and no Ziggy link.

I bought into the "gotta have it" the moment I saw the cropped design drawing last Feb. It will be the first time I'm buying something I haven't ridden or even seen in person before (other than a few spy shots), but the goal for this is under 33lbs and my one bike to do it all in the Sea to Sky corridor where there is less xc riding and more that it's just a question of how gnarly do I feel like attempting on today's ride.

I don't shuttle much so keeping the weight manageable is important on those long climbs. I will ride the park at least once this summer but it's not really my jam. I prefer the climb and more isolated trails in the area.

Patiently waiting for Feb .... (It's killing me but the weather blows so that's helping)


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I wonder if it's like the druid though in the sense that you could run either a 160 or a 170 fork. Also, we know it will be Ziggy link compatible so that headtube angle may change depending on set up. I literally just got my druid, but seeing more and more of the new steed I feel I'm being sucked into the "I gotta have it" crowd. Maybe built it up as a park rat bike? Haha


I tried the Druid with a 140 fork and got too many pedal strikes, went to 150 and it stopped being an issue. 🤷‍♂️ The Druid is rated for up to a 160 Fox 36. I imagine the Dread will be a 170-180 fork bike. Buchanan was rolling a 170 fork on the prototype, IIRC.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

HubbaMan said:


> The idea of a few geo options would be cool, I'm aiming to start with the fork at 170 and no Ziggy link.
> 
> I bought into the "gotta have it" the moment I saw the cropped design drawing last Feb. It will be the first time I'm buying something I haven't ridden or even seen in person before (other than a few spy shots), but the goal for this is under 33lbs and my one bike to do it all in the Sea to Sky corridor where there is less xc riding and more that it's just a question of how gnarly do I feel like attempting on today's ride.
> 
> ...


SAMSIES!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Anyone have issues with their chain slap protectors just flying off? I was riding and mine flapped into my spokes. Looked like it was barely held on with anything.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

onawave said:


> SAMSIES!


I came off a SB150 Onawave the druid handles everything the 150 did no problem if not better. The bike is over all way more balanced than the 150. The druid somehow eats everything up, but I would say it doesn't feel as efficient as the 150 but damn close. If i were you i would try a druid then maybe the Dreadnought you would be pretty surprised.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Darkstar187 said:


> I came off a SB150 Onawave the druid handles everything the 150 did no problem if not better. The bike is over all way more balanced than the 150. The druid somehow eats everything up, but I would say it doesn't feel as efficient as the 150 but damn close. If i were you i would try a druid then maybe the Dreadnought you would be pretty surprised.


i hear ya bro. however, where the 150 is "better" is its more aggressive reach etc. hence betting on the dreadnought to keep that aggressive geo. my basic understanding is that the dready is their race bike. considering im riding more gnarly stuff, a fair bit of double black and steeps i think its the right decision.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Anyone have issues with their chain slap protectors just flying off? I was riding and mine flapped into my spokes. Looked like it was barely held on with anything.


Came off twice on mine. Got a new rear end after mine broke and it's starting to come off after two rides! So I'll be on number 3 soon

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Anyone have issues with their chain slap protectors just flying off? I was riding and mine flapped into my spokes. Looked like it was barely held on with anything.


I bought a replacement because of the thorough gouging mine has taken. The backing paper on my replacement will not even stay adhered to the adhesive side.

When I end up installing it, I will zip tie it down. Not the most glamorous look, but at least it will stay put.


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## Rngspnr (Feb 15, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I bought a replacement because of the thorough gouging mine has taken. The backing paper on my replacement will not even stay adhered to the adhesive side.
> 
> When I end up installing it, I will zip tie it down. Not the most glamorous look, but at least it will stay put.


Try this for reattaching your protector. Spray the back of it let it get almost completely dry then install. Just make sure you get it lined up right the first time it sticks like mad.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

I recommended this on the FB group, but I'll post here too: use Rubber to Plastic Scotch Weld Adhesive. Just make sure both surfaces are clean and dry, apply, and then hold it together for a minute or two. You'll never get the chain protector off again.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

I prefer the option of removing it if I ever need to haha. I contemplated the spray adhesive but that stuff makes a mess. What I did last night was remove all the old tape. Cleaned it super well, then scrubbed with wax and grease remover a few times. I scuffed up the back side of it with red scotchbrite, and cleaned again. Then I applied some 3M adhesion promoter to the back that i've used on rubber trim in the past. Applied some fresh 3m VHB tape to it and put it back on. We shall see how it goes.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Once Forbidden has released the bike do you think we will see any updates to the Druid or running changes? Not an owner yet but reading through the thread looks to be some areas for tweaks with clearance in the rear triangle for mud and 12 speed set ups.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

shiny said:


> Once Forbidden has released the bike do you think we will see any updates to the Druid or running changes? Not an owner yet but reading through the thread looks to be some areas for tweaks with clearance in the rear triangle for mud and 12 speed set ups.


Unlikely. The thing I can appreciate about smaller bike companies like Forbidden is that they don't see the need/pressure for major changes year over year. I could see the current Druid platform/design working well for them for the next 3-4 years. I think the new bike also shares some components (idler wheel, hardware, ports etc) with the druid if I am not mistaken.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

CHWK said:


> Unlikely. The thing I can appreciate about smaller bike companies like Forbidden is that they don't see the need/pressure for major changes year over year. I could see the current Druid platform/design working well for them for the next 3-4 years. I think the new bike also shares some components (idler wheel, hardware, ports etc) with the druid if I am not mistaken.


Be interesting to see what is carried over to the Dreadnought vs what's new.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

shiny said:


> Be interesting to see what is carried over to the Dreadnought vs what's new.


Their Xmas post on Instagram showed a decorated tree adorned with Ziggy links and shiny idlers so maybe a stainless option is just around the corner?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Went to the bike shop today to get my headset threaded for my one up tool. Ended up getting an offer on some G2 Ultimates that I couldn't refuse. Lighter than the SLXs and much sexier. If anyone wants a good deal on some practically brand new 4 pot SLXs give me a shout haha


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

CHWK said:


> I prefer the option of removing it if I ever need to haha. I contemplated the spray adhesive but that stuff makes a mess. What I did last night was remove all the old tape. Cleaned it super well, then scrubbed with wax and grease remover a few times. I scuffed up the back side of it with red scotchbrite, and cleaned again. Then I applied some 3M adhesion promoter to the back that i've used on rubber trim in the past. Applied some fresh 3m VHB tape to it and put it back on. We shall see how it goes.


I was thinking about VHB tape for mine. Does it come off the paint without damaging it?


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Went to the bike shop today to get my headset threaded for my one up tool. Ended up getting an offer on some G2 Ultimates that I couldn't refuse. Lighter than the SLXs and much sexier. If anyone wants a good deal on some practically brand new 4 pot SLXs give me a shout haha
> 
> View attachment 1911519
> View attachment 1911520
> ...


God I love this bike.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Fanatik has frames in stock. All sizes and colors at this time.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

hbar said:


> I was thinking about VHB tape for mine. Does it come off the paint without damaging it?


I've never had an issue with it lifting paint unless the paint was done poorly.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

ALS650L said:


> Fanatik has frames in stock. All sizes and colors at this time.


I really hope that me ordering in June means I'm really close to the front of the line.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

unrealityshow said:


> I really hope that me ordering in June means I'm really close to the front of the line.


I ordered a frame a couple weeks ago and it shipped already. They got cosmic egg plant last week and the other colors this week it appears.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Asked my dealer to put a allocation on a dreadnought for me. What am I doing with my life? I've got a problem.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Asked my dealer to put a allocation on a dreadnought for me. What am I doing with my life? I've got a problem.


He11 no. If it makes you feel any better, I have 13 bikes in my garage, and I just put a deposit on a Stumpy for my daughter to lock it down.

Life is short. Feed your passion.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> He11 no. If it makes you feel any better, I have 13 bikes in my garage, and I just put a deposit on a Stumpy for my daughter to lock it down.
> 
> Life is short. Feed your passion.


It makes me feel better. Ask my wife and she'll tell you a different story  haha


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> It makes me feel better. Ask my wife and she'll tell you a different story  haha


Congrats BTW!!! I trust you are properly celebrating this great news. Are you planning on keeping both? At least in the short term?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Congrats BTW!!! I trust you are properly celebrating this great news. Are you planning on keeping both? At least in the short term?


Well... I've always said, if it came down to my wife or a sweet bike... What color frame would I choose? So who knows... 😂


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Hey FYI for all Druid owners, Real World Cycling (RWC) makes a needle bearing kit for the shock dimensions on the Druid and figured I'd pass along the link to the specific part needed.

The back end of the shock sees the rotation so the kit is only needed on that end. A pretty cheap way to gain some sensitivity/small bump compliance.









RWC Shock Needle Bearing Kit, 30.00mm


Our NEEDLE BEARING CONVERSION KITS are a new, better way of doing things. Our top quality hardened steel needle bearing take the place of the DU bushing.




www.enduroforkseals.com


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

VeloRyan said:


> Hey FYI for all Druid owners, Real World Cycling (RWC) makes a needle bearing kit for the shock dimensions on the Druid and figured I'd pass along the link to the specific part needed.
> 
> The back end of the shock sees the rotation so the kit is only needed on that end. A pretty cheap way to gain some sensitivity/small bump compliance.
> 
> ...


Interesting. Have you tried these out and noticed a difference? Also, can you still service the shock easily (pull off the large can to get to seals)? The bearing kit from Fox is big, and I've read (but not verified) that you can't remove the can without pressing out the bearings.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> Interesting. Have you tried these out and noticed a difference? Also, can you still service the shock easily (pull off the large can to get to seals)? The bearing kit from Fox is big, and I've read (but not verified) that you can't remove the can without pressing out the bearings.


I was thinking about that awhile ago. Had a RWC kit on my Following. Only need it in the high movement side of the shock. There's quite a bit of movement on the rear pivot of the shock, so should have similar noticeable difference. It's worth trying IMHO.

I'm running an ElevenSix now, so I can't comment on the air can.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

My Druid frame has shipped. I should take ownership of it on Thursday. I’m rather excited about this.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

hbar said:


> Have you tried these out and noticed a difference?


just a thought: if there is excessive stiction/friction from OEM bushing, wouldn't you expect it to loosen the rear shock bolt as it articulates?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Added a little spice to my XT ride. The bike looks way better in person. Bright colors on dark don't photo well on an iPhone XR. Thanks to CHWK for the vector files. They worked like a charm. Might change to fork decals to match too.









Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

VeloRyan said:


> Hey FYI for all Druid owners, Real World Cycling (RWC) makes a needle bearing kit for the shock dimensions on the Druid and figured I'd pass along the link to the specific part needed.
> 
> The back end of the shock sees the rotation so the kit is only needed on that end. A pretty cheap way to gain some sensitivity/small bump compliance.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing this. I did have a kit on my original Evil Following and it definitely did help a bit with small bumps. For the price, I may throw one on my Druid and see how it does.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Was chatting more with my dealer about the Dreadnought preorder list. Anyone have any info about them being offered as complete builds? They were being pretty coy about it all. I think i'd prefer to buy a complete build for this one as building another $11k+ bike isn't something I really want to do at the moment.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Was chatting more with my dealer about the Dreadnought preorder list. Anyone have any info about them being offered as complete builds? They were being pretty coy about it all. I think i'd prefer to buy a complete build for this one as building another $11k+ bike isn't something I really want to do at the moment.


Ran into the same as you re coy-ness. Was told frames first with builds at a later date. Didn't want to wait for the builds so I'm in for a custom setup.

The wait is excruciating ...


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Ran into the same as you re coy-ness. Was told frames first with builds at a later date. Didn't want to wait for the builds so I'm in for a custom setup.
> 
> The wait is excruciating ...


Pricing out a build at the moment and I am sitting at $8900CDN roughly. I assume a factory build would be a tad bit cheaper. We'll see what happens. I am not stressing too much as I've got the druid already but I could imagine the wait really sucks haha


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Added a little spice to my XT ride. The bike looks way better in person. Bright colors on dark don't photo well on an iPhone XR. Thanks to CHWKS for the vector files. They worked like a charm. Might change to fork decals to match too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


CHWK - is this the same colour as my decals? If so, woohoo!!!!!!!! Plus the fork!!!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> CHWK - is this the same colour as my decals? If so, woohoo!!!!!!!! Plus the fork!!!


Not that I know of haha. I think this fellow used his own vinyl. Unless I cut and shipped some in my sleep.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Pricing out a build at the moment and I am sitting at $8900CDN roughly. I assume a factory build would be a tad bit cheaper. We'll see what happens. I am not stressing too much as I've got the druid already but I could imagine the wait really sucks haha


Yeah I blew past your build price pretty quickly unfortunately, but I'm hoping the sheer joy and exhilaration I get from the new bike helps me to forget the cost!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Yeah I blew past your build price pretty quickly unfortunately, but I'm hoping the sheer joy and exhilaration I get from the new bike helps me to forget the cost!


Yea... mine would be a bit more but I have a huge pile of excess parts left over from other bikes that are mostly new. It probably won't be as visibly fancy as the Druid, but its meant for park duty anyways


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Was chatting more with my dealer about the Dreadnought preorder list. Anyone have any info about them being offered as complete builds? They were being pretty coy about it all. I think i'd prefer to buy a complete build for this one as building another $11k+ bike isn't something I really want to do at the moment.


I was thinking about a full build, but I have enough parts lying around [fork, wheels, tires, crank, cassette, pedals] that I should be able to get one rolling for a grand more than the frame-only price. With the way component availability is, a factory build might not be available until late summer or later...


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Just took delivery of my large purple Druid and it is stunning. I’m starting to put it together, and for the life of me, I can’t route the cable to the dropper - anyone have advice on this? It’s like there’s a solid wall of carbon behind where the rear brake and shifter cable enter the top tube.

I’m sure it’s been covered in this very long thread, but I appreciate your help! I’ll be sure to post some pics when I’m done.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> Just took delivery of my large purple Druid and it is stunning. I'm starting to put it together, and for the life of me, I can't route the cable to the dropper - anyone have advice on this? It's like there's a solid wall of carbon behind where the rear brake and shifter cable enter the top tube.
> 
> I'm sure it's been covered in this very long thread, but I appreciate your help! I'll be sure to post some pics when I'm done.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The dropper enters the right side cable port at the head tube and goes down the down tube, from there you should unscrew and open up the cavity at the bottom of the frame near the BB via the two screws, and then you'll see a port in there to route the cable up into.


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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

Yes, I have used the RWC needle bearing kits on shocks for other bikes and they definitely make a difference by removing the friction seen at bushing where the rotation occurs. Definitely worth $40 in my opinion, no question.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Forbidden have posted on their Instagram story ’2-2-21’ so presume release date for the new bike!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

shiny said:


> Forbidden have posted on their Instagram story '2-2-21' so presume release date for the new bike!


Hmmm. Who is Beta MTB? Looks very lifestyle-ish - not a bad thing, although I wonder if it's only loosely associated with Forbidden.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

pinkrobe said:


> Hmmm. Who is Beta MTB? Looks very lifestyle-ish - not a bad thing, although I wonder if it's only loosely associated with Forbidden.


I think it Ryan Palmer and Co, previously from BIKE Mag. 
This should be great content 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Kmag76 said:


> I think it Ryan Palmer and Co, previously from BIKE Mag.
> This should be great content
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That sounds awesome! Not as awesome as the new bike, but still pretty darn good!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Yea, I figured early Feb was too soon for a new bike announcement. Sounded like it was more of an end of month thing.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Maybe they're launching the "beta" with a dreadnought review? Or just the bike release ?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> View attachment 1912541
> View attachment 1912542
> 
> 
> Maybe they're launching the "beta" with a dreadnought review? Or just the bike release ?


That makes way more sense then haha


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Ordered a crap ton of parts for the Dreadnought build yesterday. Scrounging the internet for deals since most of the local shops are out of stock. Got a full SLX drivetrain, some Code RSC brakes, Raceface Turbine Dropper, One Up Goodies. I am going to wait until the bike is released to buy a fork and wheel set. I don't think they'd go superboost on the rear, but you never know.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Ordered a crap ton of parts for the Dreadnought build yesterday. Scrounging the internet for deals since most of the local shops are out of stock. Got a full SLX drivetrain, some Code RSC brakes, Raceface Turbine Dropper, One Up Goodies. I am going to wait until the bike is released to buy a fork and wheel set. I don't think they'd go superboost on the rear, but you never know.


Are you going to go with We Are One on the wheel set?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Are you going to go with We Are One on the wheel set?


If the rear spacing is the same as the druid, I am just going to hang the druid on the wall and swap my current wheel set over for the summer. Not going to be riding both bikes at the same time, and certainly not going to let anyone else ride it haha

I'll probably purchase a WAO wheelset towards the end of the year.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

CHWK said:


> Ordered a crap ton of parts for the Dreadnought build yesterday. Scrounging the internet for deals since most of the local shops are out of stock. Got a full SLX drivetrain, some Code RSC brakes, Raceface Turbine Dropper, One Up Goodies. I am going to wait until the bike is released to buy a fork and wheel set. I don't think they'd go superboost on the rear, but you never know.


Just out of curiosity- when you reserved your frame did they let you pick a size? Or give any color intel or preference? Or was it just a here's my money I'm getting in line


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Just out of curiosity- when you reserved your frame did they let you pick a size? Or give any color intel or preference? Or was it just a here's my money I'm getting in line


Basically just a "hey put me on the list" nothing specific.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Basically just a "hey put me on the list" nothing specific.


this was the same for me. put a deposit on the new frame - was told its blue and black.

i now have all parts reserved including da package, and their wheelset. for mei was told sometime in march for the frame - keep in mind - I'm in australia.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

The blue is probably that one right there. I've seen it in person and I wouldn't say it is the prettiest looking paint job. The pink kind of ruins it imo. Definitely gunning for black on mine when the time comes.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> View attachment 1912575
> 
> 
> The blue is probably that one right there. I've seen it in person and I wouldn't say it is the prettiest looking paint job. The pink kind of ruins it imo. Definitely gunning for black on mine when the time comes.


pink?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> pink?


The one there in the photo, I saw it in person and the paint job looked like a production paint job. Blue and then had Pink artwork all over it you can see going down the seat tube, and chainstays. I believe the lettering up the downtube was also pink. There was tape over the top tube which was probably hiding the name. Who knows tho.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> The one there in the photo, I saw it in person and the paint job looked like a production paint job. Blue and then had Pink artwork all over it you can see going down the seat tube, and chainstays. I believe the lettering up the downtube was also pink. There was tape over the top tube which was probably hiding the name. Who knows tho.


ah makes sense now


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> View attachment 1912575
> 
> 
> The blue is probably that one right there. I've seen it in person and I wouldn't say it is the prettiest looking paint job. The pink kind of ruins it imo. Definitely gunning for black on mine when the time comes.


That blue is REALLY BLUE. Don't mind the purple accents. Just for S+G, I took a highly mediocre measurement of the rear shock eye-to-eye, assuming that the crank length is 170. It comes in right at 210, which I think is interesting. If I was a small company looking to reduce the number of parts I had to source, I'd want to use the same headset, BB shell, bearings, cable port design, seat collar and rear shock across as many bikes as possible. 210x55 on both the Druid and Dreadnought would be amazing...


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> That blue is REALLY BLUE. Don't mind the purple accents. Just for S+G, I took a highly mediocre measurement of the rear shock eye-to-eye, assuming that the crank length is 170. It comes in right at 210, which I think is interesting. If I was a small company looking to reduce the number of parts I had to source, I'd want to use the same headset, BB shell, bearings, cable port design, seat collar and rear shock across as many bikes as possible. 210x55 on both the Druid and Dreadnought would be amazing...


highly doubt they would put that blue and pink into production. just look at the rest of their line up. it doesn't make sense


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> That blue is REALLY BLUE. Don't mind the purple accents. Just for S+G, I took a highly mediocre measurement of the rear shock eye-to-eye, assuming that the crank length is 170. It comes in right at 210, which I think is interesting. If I was a small company looking to reduce the number of parts I had to source, I'd want to use the same headset, BB shell, bearings, cable port design, seat collar and rear shock across as many bikes as possible. 210x55 on both the Druid and Dreadnought would be amazing...


The new bike is a trunnion mount shock tho. If you watch the build of it that Lew Buchanan did last year you can see the bearings in the front of the shock. I hope that the headset, BB, and seatpost size are all the same. Would be a major pain in the ass otherwise.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> highly doubt they would put that blue and pink into production. just look at the rest of their line up. it doesn't make sense


Neither does the name "Dreadnought" but here we are... haha


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Neither does the name "Dreadnought" but here we are... haha


The Blue is a fade to purple or pink at the front end of the frame according to some folks that saw it this summer. Had it been all blue like the back end with some accents I would have gone that route but will lean black instead of all goes to plan.

Just waiting for Feb 2nd now and hoping that along with the announcement there is also a short term review coming. With a few test rigs out and about in the area I wouldn't be surprised at all.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> The Blue is a fade to purple or pink at the front end of the frame according to some folks that saw it this summer. Had it been all blue like the back end with some accents I would have gone that route but will lean black instead of all goes to plan.
> 
> Just waiting for Feb 2nd now and hoping that along with the announcement there is also a short term review coming. With a few test rigs out and about in the area I wouldn't be surprised at all.


Ah that's right, I am remembering it was faded now towards the front. I think blue to black fade tho. I chatted a few times in the line up with the lady that was riding it. She kept telling me over and over how all I needed was a Druid. Yet here I am now, about to have a pair of Forbidden Double D's.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Ah that's right, I am remembering it was faded now towards the front. I think blue to black fade tho. I chatted a few times in the line up with the lady that was riding it. She kept telling me over and over how all I needed was a Druid. Yet here I am now, about to have a pair of Forbidden Double D's.


i don't really understand these stories / quotes. you were obviously at wbp? why couldn't you use more travel on a more capable bike there? it seems to be a no brainer.

i have a similar dilemma. maybe %20 of my riding is really gnarly stuff. double blacks, bigger drops really rocky techy stuff. the rest is typical trail riding. i would much rather have a bike that's comfortable in the bigger stuff - than pushing its limits. with my current bike - it fixes a lot of my mistakes. I'm not a lewis Buchanan where I can ride a size down trail bike at mach 10. i need all the help i can get.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Ah that's right, I am remembering it was faded now towards the front. I think blue to black fade tho. I chatted a few times in the line up with the lady that was riding it. She kept telling me over and over how all I needed was a Druid. Yet here I am now, about to have a pair of Forbidden Double D's.


Well had they been promoting the new bike as amazeballs Druid sales might have stalled once word got out, so I can see how they were reluctant to discuss it in any way good or bad.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> i don't really understand these stories / quotes. you were obviously at wbp? why couldn't you use more travel on a more capable bike there? it seems to be a no brainer.
> 
> i have a similar dilemma. maybe %20 of my riding is really gnarly stuff. double blacks, bigger drops really rocky techy stuff. the rest is typical trail riding. i would much rather have a bike that's comfortable in the bigger stuff - than pushing its limits. with my current bike - it fixes a lot of my mistakes. I'm not a lewis Buchanan where I can ride a size down trail bike at mach 10. i need all the help i can get.


I mean, to be fair to her, I get it now after riding the Druid. I think it would be more than enough if all you rode were the flow trails at whistler. Even some of the tech stuff. Depending on the build. I think some of it also came from her not knowing when the new bike was going to be released. I told her I did a lot of trail riding as well so maybe she just figured I was a lowly, filthy casual rider (which is true) and the Druid is more than enough for that. Literally the only reason I am buying the Dreadnought as well is that I am planning on doing a BC Bike Park circuit and 10+ days in whistler this season. I want all the bike I can get for that and buying a cheap downhill bike makes no sense to me.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> I mean, to be fair to her, I get it now after riding the Druid. I think it would be more than enough if all you rode were the flow trails at whistler. Even some of the tech stuff. Depending on the build. I think some of it also came from her not knowing when the new bike was going to be released. I told her I did a lot of trail riding as well so maybe she just figured I was a lowly, filthy casual rider (which is true) and the Druid is more than enough for that. Literally the only reason I am buying the Dreadnought as well is that I am planning on doing a BC Bike Park circuit and 10+ days in whistler this season. I want all the bike I can get for that and buying a cheap downhill bike makes no sense to me.


yup - makes perfect sense. if the new bike still pedals ok - I truly don't understand why its an issue as long as you send some gnarly stuff every now and then.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> yup - makes perfect sense. if the new bike still pedals ok - I truly don't understand why its an issue as long as you send some gnarly stuff every now and then.


Yup. That will be the game. If the big bike isn't a huge hassle to get up the hills, the druid will be reduced to becoming a lighter weight trail bike for winter riding or longer days. If I find I am using it less and less then I'll eventually sell it.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

My logic is to get the bike that is optimized for my local trails and if that isn't enough for Whistler, just rent the DH. That's what I have done the last two years after riding a trail bike the first year I went and found I was way undergunned for the gnarly terrain. The DH made it so much more fun (and ridable).

I'd be real curious how well a DreadNot would handle trails in Bend since it might be more bike than I really need. There is a spectrum of flow to some gnarly tech rough trails open at various times of the year. The Druid was a perfect all-around choice once I coiled it with a Secus up front, but there are times when I wish I had a bit more for those gnarly trails.

Too bad my wallet can't handle three bikes (Druid, Dread, DH)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Energ8t said:


> My logic is to get the bike that is optimized for my local trails and if that isn't enough for Whistler, just rent the DH. That's what I have done the last two years after riding a trail bike the first year I went and found I was way undergunned for the gnarly terrain. The DH made it so much more fun (and ridable).
> 
> I'd be real curious how well a DreadNot would handle trails in Bend since it might be more bike than I really need. There is a spectrum of flow to some gnarly tech rough trails open at various times of the year. The Druid was a perfect all-around choice once I coiled it with a Secus up front, but there are times when I wish I had a bit more for those gnarly trails.
> 
> ...


i hear ya bro. if I lived closer to a bp like whistler - id be the same. however - us poor people downunder have make the best out what we have. and so the one bike that does it all is kinda key for me.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

onawave said:


> i hear ya bro. if I lived closer to a bp like whistler - id be the same. however - us poor people downunder have make the best out what we have. and so the one bike that does it all is kinda key for me.


Yeah, that was my point; one-bike quiver. The DH rental was only $200CAD for four days. That's by far the cheapest solution if a Dreadnaught is too much bike for your normal local trails for the year. That way your not over-biking to ride for a week at a bike park.

If I still lived in SoCal, I'd def get a Dreadnaught to do it all.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

CHWK said:


> The dropper enters the right side cable port at the head tube and goes down the down tube, from there you should unscrew and open up the cavity at the bottom of the frame near the BB via the two screws, and then you'll see a port in there to route the cable up into.


You're the man, thank you!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CRcabkri (Aug 13, 2010)

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of trouble and was hoping someone had the same issue and got it sorted out.
My chain is rubbing the inside of the lower guide on my Druid (see pictures). I talked to the guys at Forbidden a few months ago, and I removed one spacer from the lower guide at the time, but it didn't fully resolve the issue (still rubs in the top 4 gears). Chainline is right at 51 mm and after removing the spacer the guide is as close to the rear tire as Forbidden recommends. Any ideas?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

CRcabkri said:


> Hey guys, I'm having a bit of trouble and was hoping someone had the same issue and got it sorted out.
> My chain is rubbing the inside of the lower guide on my Druid (see pictures). I talked to the guys at Forbidden a few months ago, and I removed one spacer from the lower guide at the time, but it didn't fully resolve the issue (still rubs in the top 4 gears). Chainline is right at 51 mm and after removing the spacer the guide is as close to the rear tire as Forbidden recommends. Any ideas?
> View attachment 1912688
> View attachment 1912689
> View attachment 1912690


Is the spacer on your bottom bracket/cranks the right size?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

CRcabkri said:


> Hey guys, I'm having a bit of trouble and was hoping someone had the same issue and got it sorted out.
> My chain is rubbing the inside of the lower guide on my Druid (see pictures). I talked to the guys at Forbidden a few months ago, and I removed one spacer from the lower guide at the time, but it didn't fully resolve the issue (still rubs in the top 4 gears). Chainline is right at 51 mm and after removing the spacer the guide is as close to the rear tire as Forbidden recommends. Any ideas?


Is your chainring the correct offset? Those come in 6mm standard offset and 3mm boost offset.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Just received my XL Brownstone frame from Fanatik. Looking forward to building it up. I'm going to be swapping most of the parts over from my now sold Commencal Meta AM 29, Boxxer red Lyrik, Code R brakes, WTB KOM tough rims with hope hubs and GX eagle drivetrain. First order of business is RideWrap, I used that on my Commencal and really like it.

The small details on the frame look really nice, all the hardware and cable guides. Too bad it's winter here and I won't be able to ride it for a few more months!


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

ALS650L said:


> Is your chainring the correct offset? Those come in 6mm standard offset and 3mm boost offset.


The chainring offset seems like the most likely, but have you checked your derailleur & hanger to see if they are bent inward? You'd probably have noticed that in your shifting, however.


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## CRcabkri (Aug 13, 2010)

ALS650L said:


> Is your chainring the correct offset? Those come in 6mm standard offset and 3mm boost offset.


Thanks, I'll double check the offset. The spacers are as Race Face requires for boost spacing.


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## CRcabkri (Aug 13, 2010)

CRcabkri said:


> Thanks, I'll double check the offset. The spacers are as Race Face requires for boost spacing.


It's boost... I'm at a loss now


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Wait...What?


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

CRcabkri said:


> It's boost... I'm at a loss now


I am running Race face cranks, 2.5mm spacer and zero offset chainring, had a boost chainring and it was to tight.


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## CRcabkri (Aug 13, 2010)

alan1 said:


> I am running Race face cranks, 2.5mm spacer and zero offset chainring, had a boost chainring and it was to tight.


Thanks Alan, I'll try that or an extra BB spacer. Does it mess with your shifting at all having the chainline a bit off?


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

My chainline is 52mm as recommended by Forbidden with my setup, no problems shifting, it looks like your chainring has a small offset.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

alan1 said:


> My chainline is 52mm as recommended by Forbidden with my setup, no problems shifting, it looks like your chainring has a small offset.


 The more important thing is if the chainring is inline with the idler pully. .


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Finally got my Druid frame. It was a long six months. I am grateful though.

However, I made the mistake of paying for Fanatik to RideWrap my frame. I'm very disappointed in the result. I did my Megatower myself, and only left two air bubbles total on the frame. There are atleast two air bubbles on each piece on the Druid. I really expected much better.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Finally got my Druid frame. It was a long six months. I am grateful though.
> 
> However, I made the mistake of paying for Fanatik to RideWrap my frame. I'm very disappointed in the result. I did my Megatower myself, and only left two air bubbles total on the frame. There are atleast two air bubbles on each piece on the Druid. I really expected much better.


Maybe send some photos and see what they'll do? I don't think I'd tolerate that kind of stuff especially when paying the price these frames cost.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

That does suck, especially since their service to wrap the bike isn't cheap. Hopefully they will make things right with you somehow.


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## sean44 (Dec 10, 2018)

What is the general experience of pedalling the Druid? Read alot of positives on climbing efficiency but wondered what its like in a stood up sprint?


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

ADING said:


> The more important thing is if the chainring is inline with the idler pully. .


THIS^^ 
I found this the key when getting a quiet drivetrain. I'm probably 1mm off from where it should be but it runs better when the chainring lines up with the idler.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

sean44 said:


> What is the general experience of pedalling the Druid? Read alot of positives on climbing efficiency but wondered what its like in a stood up sprint?


I find that on smooth climbs like fire roads, I need to reach for the climb switch. On trails, the rougher it is, the more the Druid shines. It doesn't get hung up on square-edged stuff like roots and rocks, and has remarkable traction pretty much everywhere. It's basically the same when sprinting - smooth terrain will net you some suspension movement, but on rough terrain I don't notice it.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

sean44 said:


> What is the general experience of pedalling the Druid? Read alot of positives on climbing efficiency but wondered what its like in a stood up sprint?


I've never had to reach for the climb switch on mine and my normal loop is made up of some punchy trail climbs, and then a long steep, steep fire road. Then again I don't run factory DPX2 shock so maybe Im not the best to ask.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> I find that on smooth climbs like fire roads, I need to reach for the climb switch. On trails, the rougher it is, the more the Druid shines. It doesn't get hung up on square-edged stuff like roots and rocks, and has remarkable traction pretty much everywhere. It's basically the same when sprinting - smooth terrain will net you some suspension movement, but on rough terrain I don't notice it.


Nailed it. Coming from a Yeti SB6 and living in SoCal where it's mostly fire road climbing, I was initially disappointed in the climbing capabilities when first journeying out on fire roads (but I'm also running an X2 rather than DPX2 which makes a huge difference). Climbing shines on technical bits though, it's crazy what this bike can do. I don't mind reaching for the climb switch though, that's why it's there, best of both worlds for climbing/descending.

Ride or Die


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

sean44 said:


> What is the general experience of pedalling the Druid? Read alot of positives on climbing efficiency but wondered what its like in a stood up sprint?


Overall, the bike climbs very well. It really shines in technical sections. As long as you can keep the pedals turning, the bike never seems to lose traction. I never reach for the lockout switch on fire road climbs either. You can see the suspension working, but never feels like it is sucking any energy away. All of my long fire road times are very similar between the Druid and shorter travel, more XC style bikes. As far as your question when standing on the pedals and sprinting, the bike again feels very good. When coming out of corners and getting back on the pedals, the bike feels snappy and efficient. Don't expect it to feel like an XC bike, but I doubt you would be disappointed with the pedaling in any situation.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

I find the Druid to be very composed while climbing compared to my SB130 and Element, where the Druid you cant feel any pedal bob the others you do. I doesn't feel as quick as the other two, but it actually is. I think that's because you are not fighting for traction or stability and wasting energy, your energy is more directed to putting power to the pedals. As far as standing up to put the power down, I find the first 1/4 pedal stroke to wallow slightly and then the power to the wheels feels direct.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

CHWK said:


> Maybe send some photos and see what they'll do? I don't think I'd tolerate that kind of stuff especially when paying the price these frames cost.


They gave me a $30 gift card, so I ordered some spare derailleur hangers and an pulley.

Now I'm in fear of the BB shell being misaligned, because when the crank is installed it doesn't spin without a serious amount of force. each BB bearing is fine, and its a Chris King that I used previously in another bike. It doesn't make any sense, because its a one piece insert in the frame.

I used up all of my patience waiting six months for the bike, I'm very much at my wits end.


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## robinschaub (Aug 15, 2012)

Hey all!

I am not adressing the lower chainguide since I really see the reason for it but I wanted do something about the big upper guide. Beeing a lover of sleek and minimalistic parts and not a fan of E13 it was clear for me to do my own upper guide since I bought my Druid last year.

My goal was to design a super small but yet functional chain guide that fits nicely with the Druids lines and keeps all "features" of a big guide. After a box full of prototypes this small 3D printed chain guide is what I came up with. The guide can be rotated to remove the idler and snaps in place to avoid unwanted openings during riding.

Final weight: 10g selfmade VS 29g for the original.

Can you guess where the inspiration for the cutouts in the guide came from?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

robinschaub said:


> Hey all!
> 
> I am not adressing the lower chainguide since I really see the reason for it but I wanted do something about the big upper guide. Beeing a lover of sleek and minimalistic parts and not a fan of E13 it was clear for me to do my own upper guide since I bought my Druid last year.
> 
> ...


Wow, that is really tight. Nice work!


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> They gave me a $30 gift card, so I ordered some spare derailleur hangers and an pulley.
> 
> Now I'm in fear of the BB shell being misaligned, because when the crank is installed it doesn't spin without a serious amount of force. each BB bearing is fine, and its a Chris King that I used previously in another bike. It doesn't make any sense, because its a one piece insert in the frame.
> 
> I used up all of my patience waiting six months for the bike, I'm very much at my wits end.


So there are bubbles in the wrap all over the place and they gave you $30? How much did the wrap cost? I'd want that for free if not done right.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> So there are bubbles in the wrap all over the place and they gave you $30? How much did the wrap cost? I'd want that for free if not done right.


Yea... a fully tailored kit is over $100. If it wasn't installed properly it isn't going to last as long either... I'd have asked for a refund on the kit completely.


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## xhellcat (Dec 24, 2017)

Fanatik charges $250 just for the install 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

xhellcat said:


> Fanatik charges $250 just for the install
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Holy f**k. Yea... I'd be demanding my money back... for real.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Hello All,

I checked my suspension bearings this week after 6mos of riding (750km) and found a number of them in poor condition on the drive side. Talked to Forbidden and they suggested it may have been due to grease contamination in the bearings. Upon further inspection of the bearings, they were right. I don't excessively wash my bike, but I clearly need to put the hose away on this bike. Over loving it I guess. 
Learn from my mistake or learn the hard-way like me.

Issues so far on the XT build (5'9" 190lbs on a large, 750km, fairly aggressive rider in BC):

Had to replace bearings after 6 months. This one is on me, but I'll be checking them again in 3mos.
Grip 2 Damper failed. (This was warrantied by Fox - Great service from the guys in Burnaby)
Not loving the DPX2, so coil is in the future. Just can't seem to find a balance between small bump compliance and excessive use of full-travel.
Replaced rear rim. Got sick of truing it all the time!
Added moto foam to the rear suspense gap to stops rocks from getting in there. Not pretty or 100% effective, but the it's just paint damage. I think Forbidden needs to develop a new fender as this is a design flaw and not unique to riding styles or environment.
Love riding this bike and after tearing it down multiple times, I can say the build quality is great and I enjoy tinkering with it.

Cheers,


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## xhellcat (Dec 24, 2017)

CHWK said:


> Holy f**k. Yea... I'd be demanding my money back... for real.


Same!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tkrumroy (Aug 12, 2018)

CHWK said:


> I've never had to reach for the climb switch on mine and my normal loop is made up of some punchy trail climbs, and then a long steep, steep fire road. Then again I don't run factory DPX2 shock so maybe Im not the best to ask.


I have had a different experience. I felt like the upper idler pulley produced more resistance than I was hoping for. Now - it may be that it was more psychological than real but that noise constantly made me feel like I was pushing through extra power to go the same speed as my prior bike. I do think that long rear end chainstay helped a lot with steep technical climbing and keeping that rear end down - but still that damn pulley made me feel like I was pedaling through peanut butter at times.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Holy f**k. Yea... I'd be demanding my money back... for real.


Me too. When I put mine on myself I almost cried. My stunningly beautiful frame started looking pretty $hitty pretty quickly. I ripped it off, regrouped and ended up taking my time and doing it right.

I know there are experienced guys on here who have no problem with it, but if you talk to most people, including bike shops, they cringe at the thought of having to apply it.

If I were in this boat, I would ask for a new kit, rip the old one off (or at least pieces of it) and reapply the new kit myself. Apart from the Ride Wrap guys, I wouldn't trust anyone to do this for me. As inexperienced as I am, I know I did a better job than most of the "professionals" out there because I took my time to do it. It's tedious AF.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Getting all the final bits sorted for the bike bike build. A boat load of parts showed up today including some code rsc brakes, an slx drive train, OneUp goodies, and numerous other things.

Still trying to sort out the wheels, and suspension. Was leaning towards Formula Selva + Mod, but thinking I may just save some cash and go with a Fox 38. I think the new bike will come with a coil from factory so the rear is covered.

Probably going to order a We Are One wheelset next week. So much excitement!


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

xhellcat said:


> Fanatik charges $250 just for the install
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They charged me $150. I had ordered the frame way back in June, so maybe their prices have increased with the covid influx.

The point may be moot, because I'm sending it back for warranty. Unless I don't know how to install a threaded bb, the shell is misaligned, and I get to wait all over again. Glad I still have another bike. I will lose my **** if they make me pay for another Ride Wrap install.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Added moto foam to the rear suspense gap to stops rocks from getting in there. Not pretty or 100% effective, but the it's just paint damage.


Why not apply some Ride Wrap or comparable protection in this area? I have used moto foam for 2 full seasons and (not surprisingly since my bike is Ride Wrapped) have no noticeable wear in this area.

Can you post a pic or two? My moto foam looks great (IMHO). And it appears to me to have been 100% effective.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Getting all the final bits sorted for the bike bike build. A boat load of parts showed up today including some code rsc brakes, an slx drive train, OneUp goodies, and numerous other things.
> 
> Still trying to sort out the wheels, and suspension. Was leaning towards Formula Selva + Mod, but thinking I may just save some cash and go with a Fox 38. I think the new bike will come with a coil from factory so the rear is covered.
> 
> Probably going to order a We Are One wheelset next week. So much excitement!


Please keep us posted on what wheelset (Union with Hydras and CX-Rays?).

Is this bike capable of being mulleted? Are you going for a mullet wheelset?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Please keep us posted on what wheelset (Union with Hydras and CX-Rays?).
> 
> Is this bike capable of being mulleted? Are you going for a mullet wheelset?


Just the base Union wheelset with 1/1s. Not paying a premium for a bike that is going to be plowing through bike parks. This is two custom high end bikes in the span of 3 months haha.

Yes, mullet all the way, and from what I am gathering the new bike uses the exact same ziggy link as the Druid which I find very interesting.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Yes, mullet all the way, and from what I am gathering the new bike uses the exact same ziggy link as the Druid which I find very interesting.


yes the new big boi - uses the ziggy link. how do I know? currently have one on order with mullet setup.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> yes the new big boi - uses the ziggy link. how do I know? currently have one on order with mullet setup.


Well I knew it would be ziggy compatible, I am just surprised it isn't a Dreadnought specific Ziggy link. It's pretty cool they made it work for both bikes.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> Well I knew it would be ziggy compatible, I am just surprised it isn't a Dreadnought specific Ziggy link. It's pretty cool they made it work for both bikes.


it makes sense. word also is that the reach on the big boi is 485 as a large. doesnt mean much until we know the rest of the geo specs - but its sounding super aggressive.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

onawave said:


> it makes sense. word also is that the reach on the big boi is 485 as a large. doesnt mean much until we know the rest of the geo specs - but its sounding super aggressive.


So a touch (2mm) shorter than the Specialized Enduro in S4 sizing, sounds perfect to me.


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## jpec29 (Jul 22, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Getting all the final bits sorted for the bike bike build. A boat load of parts showed up today including some code rsc brakes, an slx drive train, OneUp goodies, and numerous other things.
> 
> Still trying to sort out the wheels, and suspension. Was leaning towards Formula Selva + Mod, but thinking I may just save some cash and go with a Fox 38. I think the new bike will come with a coil from factory so the rear is covered.
> 
> Probably going to order a We Are One wheelset next week. So much excitement!


Got a new manitou mezzer, it's pretty sick. Check them out!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jpec29 said:


> Got a new manitou mezzer, it's pretty sick. Check them out!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Have they sorted the bushing issues on those?


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

CHWK said:


> Have they sorted the bushing issues on those?


Yes, about a year ago. Supposedly the 2021s have a different tune, but that is debated.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Cary said:


> Yes, about a year ago. Supposedly the 2021s have a different tune, but that is debated.


I've heard very mixed things about the fork. Some rave about it, others say the rebound is very annoying and causes the fork to be super harsh when going fast over rough terrain. I think I may go Rockshox ZEB on the front and Formula Mod on the rear.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

I know rear suspension has been talked about a lot, just thought I would share what I have found.
I have spent 300km going between different shocks, DPX2, X2 and CC DB coil, and I found that the DPX2 was the best all round shock.

DPX2 gave me the best climbing, chunky descending, and flowy feeling that is so great about the druid. Note, the DPX2 came stock with my XT build and I had to remove both the positive and negative volume spacers to get it to feel good. 

X2: was the most plush when descending and felt great, but climbing it felt dead, almost like the bike gained 5lbs. If I did a lot of shuttling in chunky terrain, or didn't care when I got to the top, I would go with the X2. 

CC DB coil: Felt good climbing, and good on big hits, but it didn't give that same "Druid feeling" as the others in chunky or flowy terrain. I used different spring sizes and settled on the fox SLS 400lb (I am 200lbs) as the best fit but not the same. If I did a lot of bike park days I would go with the coil for big hit purposes.

Just my opinion.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

ADING said:


> I know rear suspension has been talked about a lot, just thought I would share what I have found.
> I have spent 300km going between different shocks, DPX2, X2 and CC DB coil, and I found that the DPX2 was the best all round shock.
> 
> DPX2 gave me the best climbing, chunky descending, and flowy feeling that is so great about the druid. Note, the DPX2 came stock with my XT build and I had to remove both the positive and negative volume spacers to get it to feel good.
> ...


I had the hesitation of going with a big brand off the shelf coil for reasons you're saying. I'd imagine the DPX2 is great. I wanted to make sure whatever I got had a proper tune for the bike and I've found no downsides with the EXT Storia other than the cost. It seems to give the best of both worlds. Maybe sell off your X2 and CC and give one a shot haha


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ADING said:


> I know rear suspension has been talked about a lot, just thought I would share what I have found.
> I have spent 300km going between different shocks, DPX2, X2 and CC DB coil, and I found that the DPX2 was the best all round shock.
> 
> DPX2 gave me the best climbing, chunky descending, and flowy feeling that is so great about the druid. Note, the DPX2 came stock with my XT build and I had to remove both the positive and negative volume spacers to get it to feel good.
> ...


Interesting. Thank you.

I can comment on the DPX2 vs the 11-6, and will do so later today by way of edit to this post when I have a minute.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

CHWK said:


> I had the hesitation of going with a big brand off the shelf coil for reasons you're saying. I'd imagine the DPX2 is great. I wanted to make sure whatever I got had a proper tune for the bike and I've found no downsides with the EXT Storia other than the cost. It seems to give the best of both worlds. Maybe sell off your X2 and CC and give one a shot haha


I agree with the shock having a tune specific to the bike, although I don't rely like the tune that came with the stock shock. I thought there was something wrong with the stock shock and started trying different shocks, that is how I ended up down this rabbit hole. In the end removing the neg & pos volume spacers and tweaking a few things it feels better, but the rebound is still to slow IMO.

Your comment on fork decisions, I have a Silva on my XC bike and love it!!! but I think 35mm is not stiff enough for big bike intentions.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

ADING said:


> I agree with the shock having a tune specific to the bike, although I don't rely like the tune that came with the stock shock. I thought there was something wrong with the stock shock and started trying different shocks, that is how I ended up down this rabbit hole. In the end removing the neg & pos volume spacers and tweaking a few things it feels better, but the rebound is still to slow IMO.
> 
> Your comment on fork decisions, I have a Silva on my XC bike and love it!!! but I think 35mm is not stiff enough for big bike intentions.


After chatting with our distributor here about the Selva it sounds like Formula recently redesigned the CSU to be much stiffer and allow for 170mm of travel in 29er. I rode a lyrik at 170mm through whistler for years and never had much of an issue or felt it was too flexy. I think its simply coming down to price for me at this point tho. A ZEB Ultimate is a bit cheaper and maybe a safer bet. Really wanna get that rear shock tho. The ZEB can be sorted later with a smashpot once its released if I don't totally love it.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

CHWK said:


> After chatting with our distributor here about the Selva it sounds like Formula recently redesigned the CSU to be much stiffer and allow for 170mm of travel in 29er. I rode a lyrik at 170mm through whistler for years and never had much of an issue or felt it was too flexy. I think its simply coming down to price for me at this point tho. A ZEB Ultimate is a bit cheaper and maybe a safer bet. Really wanna get that rear shock tho. The ZEB can be sorted later with a smashpot once its released if I don't totally love it.


Good to know about Formulas new CSU, Cheers


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

ADING said:


> I know rear suspension has been talked about a lot, just thought I would share what I have found.
> I have spent 300km going between different shocks, DPX2, X2 and CC DB coil, and I found that the DPX2 was the best all round shock.
> 
> DPX2 gave me the best climbing, chunky descending, and flowy feeling that is so great about the druid. Note, the DPX2 came stock with my XT build and I had to remove both the positive and negative volume spacers to get it to feel good.
> ...


The DPX2 is pretty sweet, and does climb incredibly well. If I was using the Druid for "normal" trail bike stuff [like what you would take a Trek Fuel or Specialized Stumpjumper on], I'd run it and be done.

The X2 is what I have on the bike now, and it definitely doesn't feel as nice on the climbs unless they're chunky and horrible and I would normally have to fight for traction. That said, the terrain I'm riding going forward is bike park flow trail and shuttle trails that usually see enduro and DH bikes, and it does quite well.

I have not had a great time with coils in the past - I don't like that very linear feel. I want that ramp up near the end of travel. Yes, I'm a nut.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. Thank you.
> 
> I can comment on the DPX2 vs the 11-6, and will do so later today by way of edit to this post when I have a minute.


Here's my take.

The DPX2 was incredible. I had it dialled better than any suspension on any bike I have ever owned. But it squeaked. Like a mouse. Continually. I had 3 people at 2 shops try to remove the mice from the treadmill inside but no dice.

Then the last gen 11-6 went on sale right about when I started requiring counselling for the Chinese water torture. I decided to get one for about 50% off when they blew them out.

It came with a 450 lb spring. I thought it was too firm from the moment I first rode it with the 11-6 installed, and I still believe it's too firm. That's the problem with coil (well, one of them). I could micro dial that DPX2. No such luck with the 11-6. At least the squeaking disappeared.

Thanks to erdawe I now have a 425 coil to try. That won't happen for months.

Anyway, like I have said in prior posts, all the shock manufacturers appear to have gone 25 lbs too firm on this bike, probably fearing that the end of its meagre 130mm travel would be met too quickly with a softer coil.

Looking forward to trying the 425 lb coil as soon as I can. Will it live up to my memory of the DPX2? Likely not. I have such fond memories of that bike and that shock when I first got it, that they will be difficult to eclipse, even if the 11-6 turns out to be better.

I am really hoping that the 425 lb spring will soften things up a bit.

The non-adjustability of the coil is the reason I am not going coil in my fork. Well, that's my thought right now at least (it changes by the week). My GRIP2 36 with Luftkappe is incredible. I don't think I want to screw with it, especially when I know that it may end up being a crap shoot trying to get the right weight coil.

.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Then the last gen 11-6 went on sale right about when I started requiring counselling for the Chinese water torture. I decided to get one for about 50% off when they blew them out.
> 
> It came with a 450 lb spring. I thought it was too firm from the moment I first rode it with the 11-6 installed, and I still believe it's too firm. That's the problem with coil (well, one of them). I could micro dial that DPX2. No such luck with the 11-6. At least the squeaking disappeared.
> 
> ...


Just on theory alone here:

The Druid has a progressive LR starts at 2.7:1 at the beginning stroke and 2.0:1 at the end stroke...plenty progressive enough for a coil....I suspect neither are "oversprung to deal with a meager amount of travel." Springs store energy, dampers diffuse energy. Springs, as it applies to suspension, determine ride height (i.e. sag). Dampers control movement. The LR of @ 2.44:1 at sag suggests that a 450lb spring should get you close to the sag point IF your geared riding weight is approx 184 lbs. A 425 would get you close IF your riding weight is approx geared 174 lbs. Those are close enough that preload should be able to get you near that 30-35% sag that Forbidden calls for, with either (and both align with the charts on Push's page). FWIW, in a linear model (i.e. a front fork), at equivalent ride heights, a coil have more midstroke support than an air spring, we would expect the same with a coil.

Did you measure eye to eye sag after setting preload on your coil? What is your geared up riding weight? I am actually wondering if your base tune is too stiff for your liking.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tdc_worm said:


> Just on theory alone here:
> 
> The Druid has a progressive LR starts at 2.7:1 at the beginning stroke and 2.0:1 at the end stroke...plenty progressive enough for a coil....I suspect neither are "oversprung to deal with a meager amount of travel." Springs store energy, dampers diffuse energy. Springs, as it applies to suspension, determine ride height (i.e. sag). Dampers control movement. The LR of @ 2.44:1 at sag suggests that a 450lb spring should get you close to the sag point IF your geared riding weight is approx 184 lbs. A 425 would get you close IF your riding weight is approx geared 174 lbs. Those are close enough that preload should be able to get you near that 30-35% sag that Forbidden calls for, with either (and both align with the charts on Push's page). FWIW, in a linear model (i.e. a front fork), at equivalent ride heights, a coil have more midstroke support than an air spring, we would expect the same with a coil.
> 
> Did you measure eye to eye sag after setting preload on your coil? What is your geared up riding weight? I am actually wondering if your base tune is too stiff for your liking.


Thanks for the explanation.

On your numbers the 450 coil should be more than fine.

Maybe it is and I just don't like it.

There is no doubt that the DPX2 felt way more bottomless to me, without ever bottoming out (or at least never bottoming out hard).

I also preferred climbing with the DPX2. I know right?

I still have it. Maybe I should ditch the 11-6.

Sometimes I should stop at 95% perfection and be happy. Squeaking and all.

That said, I wonder if my fond memories of the DPX2 are a little embellished due to being blown away by the Druid at the front end...

Maybe if I throw the DPX2 back on, it will be a WTF moment, and I will go back to the 11-6. Not sure.

Edit: I see that this thread just jumped to yet another different sub forum. Seriously?


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

tdc_worm said:


> Just on theory alone here:
> 
> The Druid has a progressive LR starts at 2.7:1 at the beginning stroke and 2.0:1 at the end stroke...plenty progressive enough for a coil....I suspect neither are "oversprung to deal with a meager amount of travel." Springs store energy, dampers diffuse energy. Springs, as it applies to suspension, determine ride height (i.e. sag). Dampers control movement. The LR of @ 2.44:1 at sag suggests that a 450lb spring should get you close to the sag point IF your geared riding weight is approx 184 lbs. A 425 would get you close IF your riding weight is approx geared 174 lbs. Those are close enough that preload should be able to get you near that 30-35% sag that Forbidden calls for, with either (and both align with the charts on Push's page). FWIW, in a linear model (i.e. a front fork), at equivalent ride heights, a coil have more midstroke support than an air spring, we would expect the same with a coil.
> 
> Did you measure eye to eye sag after setting preload on your coil? What is your geared up riding weight? I am actually wondering if your base tune is too stiff for your liking.


I found that at 207lbs geared up the 450lb spring barley got the 35% sag, the 400lb spring with 4 turns hit the sweet spot. The Olhins suspension setup guide for the Druid recommends a 430lb spring for my weight. Maybe the tunes are slightly off but I feel that with the amount of adjustability on most shocks you should be able to get close, that being said suspension is totally different between brands, models and year.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Here's my take.
> 
> The DPX2 was incredible. I had it dialled better than any suspension on any bike I have ever owned. But it squeaked. Like a mouse. Continually. I had 3 people at 2 shops try to remove the mice from the treadmill inside but no dice.
> 
> ...


I have read all the posts on here, so I am familiar with your fork struggles. Interestingly enough, I have been through the same thing. 
Had a 2019 36 factory which was a good fork and I liked. Got a 2020 36 factory which I hatted, to harsh, so I installed a Luftkappe and it turned into a great fork! Got a 2021 36 factory which is amazing! totally different fork with the new valving and piston. I went back and forth between the 2020 w/Luftkappe & 2021 on the druid, and the 2021 is hands down better. Interesting how the same fork but different years can be so different.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

I would really recommend anyone who has issues with Coil on this bike to spring for an EXT if you can. The Hydraulic bottom out lends itself well to that ramp up feel associated with air. I weigh 205 with kit and have found the 425 spring to be a treat. The traction both up and down the hill is sublime. It also helps that you're getting the added benefit of the compression tune for the bike/you. Apparently Mojo has been working on the tune for the EXT more and more recently and is starting to really figure it out.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

CHWK said:


> I would really recommend anyone who has issues with Coil on this bike to spring for an EXT if you can. The Hydraulic bottom out lends itself well to that ramp up feel associated with air. I weigh 205 with kit and have found the 425 spring to be a treat. The traction both up and down the hill is sublime. It also helps that you're getting the added benefit of the compression tune for the bike/you. Apparently Mojo has been working on the tune for the EXT more and more recently and is starting to really figure it out.


Does the EXT have a climb switch or is that not necessary?

Ride or Die


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Does the EXT have a climb switch or is that not necessary?
> 
> Ride or Die


Yes it has a climb switch but I never use mine.


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

The release of the Dreadnought draws nigh. If you listen to this week's Pinkbike podcast the subject of a "new high-pivot bike from, ahem, a Canadian company" comes up at about 2mins. in. If I understand what Mike Kaz. said correctly, he's already finished his review on the bike and they're just waiting for the release. Perhaps it will be on Feb 2nd as suggested in that Beta MTB post? I for one am quite curious to see the final geo numbers on this monster. Having received my XL frame from Fanatik last week, I'm confident the Druid is more than enough bike for me, but it will be neat to witness the Dreadnought and read what folks think of it as they get to ride it. (From what Mike Kaz. said about not being entirely enthused over high-pivot designs, he might not be the ideal reviewer for such a creation; after all, his bike of the year was the Stumpy Evo......)

Random question: did anyone ever source a stainless-steel idler pulley? I remember seeing discussion of the stainless version in the NSMB review and also on this thread, but can't find it as an option on Fanatik or on Forbidden's site. Cheers


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

gubbinalia said:


> The release of the Dreadnought draws nigh. If you listen to this week's Pinkbike podcast the subject of a "new high-pivot bike from, ahem, a Canadian company" comes up at about 2mins. in. If I understand what Mike Kaz. said correctly, he's already finished his review on the bike and they're just waiting for the release. Perhaps it will be on Feb 2nd as suggested in that Beta MTB post? I for one am quite curious to see the final geo numbers on this monster. Having received my XL frame from Fanatik last week, I'm confident the Druid is more than enough bike for me, but it will be neat to witness the Dreadnought and read what folks think of it as they get to ride it. (From what Mike Kaz. said about not being entirely enthused over high-pivot designs, he might not be the ideal reviewer for such a creation; after all, his bike of the year was the Stumpy Evo......)
> 
> Random question: did anyone ever source a stainless-steel idler pulley? I remember seeing discussion of the stainless version in the NSMB review and also on this thread, but can't find it as an option on Fanatik or on Forbidden's site. Cheers


I sure hope it's the 2nd. I want my damn Dreadnought. The hype is real. Woe is me tho having to suffer on the Druid right now


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## crashtor (Oct 27, 2019)

gubbinalia said:


> The release of the Dreadnought draws nigh. If you listen to this week's Pinkbike podcast the subject of a "new high-pivot bike from, ahem, a Canadian company" comes up at about 2mins. in. If I understand what Mike Kaz. said correctly, he's already finished his review on the bike and they're just waiting for the release. Perhaps it will be on Feb 2nd as suggested in that Beta MTB post? I for one am quite curious to see the final geo numbers on this monster. Having received my XL frame from Fanatik last week, I'm confident the Druid is more than enough bike for me, but it will be neat to witness the Dreadnought and read what folks think of it as they get to ride it. (From what Mike Kaz. said about not being entirely enthused over high-pivot designs, he might not be the ideal reviewer for such a creation; after all, his bike of the year was the Stumpy Evo......)
> 
> Random question: did anyone ever source a stainless-steel idler pulley? I remember seeing discussion of the stainless version in the NSMB review and also on this thread, but can't find it as an option on Fanatik or on Forbidden's site. Cheers


It could also be the Norco Range


----------



## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Don't forget Kazimer reviewed the Druid and it was nominated for pinkbike bike of the year in 2019.


----------



## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Maybe it is and I just don't like it.
> 
> There is no doubt that the DPX2 felt way more bottomless to me, without ever bottoming out (or at least never bottoming out hard).


if memory serves, Push will retune the shock free of charge, one time, based off of your feedback...i ran one on my SB6, Wreckoning, and Offering without any issues...other than a lighter wallet.

as for the DPX2, it should feel more bottomless because of the ramp up in airspring. generally speaking, i prefer an air spring on shorter travel bikes for this very reason.


----------



## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

CHWK said:


> I sure hope it's the 2nd. I want my damn Dreadnought. The hype is real. Woe is me tho having to suffer on the Druid right now


Hah, right?! So many good bikes out there right now, and a couple hitters in my quiver, but I'm always lusting for the next one. Out of curiosity, did your Forbidden dealer tell you that you'd get the Dreadnought frame soon after the release, or was it going to be a few months before the bikes would ship? Seems like everything production-wise is somewhat delayed, but since Forbidden already bumped the release from last fall to midwinter they may be caught up and ready to ship post-release.



crashtor said:


> It could also be the Norco Range


Hmm, good point. Although I think Lew Buchanan said on Instagram that he would be riding the Optic for a few months until something new came out from Norco, so maybe the Range release is still a while out. I could be wrong..



ALS650L said:


> Don't forget Kazimer reviewed the Druid and it was nominated for pinkbike bike of the year in 2019.


Thanks for that reminder, I think I conflated what he said about the high pivot on the Druid with the total pan that Kaz gave the Shore. I just re-read his Druid review and really liked the Hugo Harrison analogy. I am confused that he says, as a Con and a point against it, "There are lighter, livelier bikes in this travel bracket." Well, yes, that is a descriptor... not a Con. Reviewing a bike based on its "travel bracket" isn't always a meaningful way to understand its design intention or how it feels out on the trail.

In general, I think Kaz is more of a geo guy than a suspension guy -- hence him liking the Stumpy Evo so much. Myself, I like relatively unremarkable geo and unusual linkage design.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

gubbinalia said:


> Hah, right?! So many good bikes out there right now, and a couple hitters in my quiver, but I'm always lusting for the next one. Out of curiosity, did your Forbidden dealer tell you that you'd get the Dreadnought frame soon after the release, or was it going to be a few months before the bikes would ship? Seems like everything production-wise is somewhat delayed, but since Forbidden already bumped the release from last fall to midwinter they may be caught up and ready to ship post-release.
> 
> Hmm, good point. Although I think Lew Buchanan said on Instagram that he would be riding the Optic for a few months until something new came out from Norco, so maybe the Range release is still a while out. I could be wrong..
> 
> ...


I haven't been told when I can expect it. Just that I can expect to pay for it soon.


----------



## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

CHWK said:


> I would really recommend anyone who has issues with Coil on this bike to spring for an EXT if you can. The Hydraulic bottom out lends itself well to that ramp up feel associated with air. I weigh 205 with kit and have found the 425 spring to be a treat. The traction both up and down the hill is sublime. It also helps that you're getting the added benefit of the compression tune for the bike/you. Apparently Mojo has been working on the tune for the EXT more and more recently and is starting to really figure it out.


I totally agree. 
I recently rode at Vedder and did find I had a couple of solid bottom outs. I'm 200lbs and also using the 425 spring. I dialed in a bit of HSC and ran the same trail and that resolved it,
The shock is sublime.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

ive ordered the push to go along with my dreadnaughty. basically due to the fact it has better after-sales support than the ext here in Australia. a mate of mine just got the push with his evil and loves it. cant really go wrong either way i think.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

CHWK said:


> I would really recommend anyone who has issues with Coil on this bike to spring for an EXT if you can. The Hydraulic bottom out lends itself well to that ramp up feel associated with air. I weigh 205 with kit and have found the 425 spring to be a treat. The traction both up and down the hill is sublime. It also helps that you're getting the added benefit of the compression tune for the bike/you. Apparently Mojo has been working on the tune for the EXT more and more recently and is starting to really figure it out.


Do you mind sharing your settings? Had my first ride on the ext today and rebound felt pretty good, might go a bit faster but hsc and lsc were a bit harsh so ill prolly soften those up.

Im at...
R-4 clicks
Hsc- 14 clicks
Lsc- 10 clicks

Thanks!


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

onawave said:


> ive ordered the push to go along with my dreadnaughty. basically due to the fact it has better after-sales support than the ext here in Australia. a mate of mine just got the push with his evil and loves it. cant really go wrong either way i think.


I found the opposite in relation to support in Aus with EXT being better (plus I preferred the Storia over the Push shock).


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

springs said:


> I found the opposite in relation to support in Aus with EXT being better (plus I preferred the Storia over the Push shock).


interesting. the push reseller in auz is Push Industries - The Ultimate MTB Suspension option - Cyclinic. not saying you arent getting good support. but when i look up the ext reseller. i think its just a single dude. some gmail address etc.


----------



## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

vanislemtbr said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I checked my suspension bearings this week after 6mos of riding (750km) and found a number of them in poor condition on the drive side. Talked to Forbidden and they suggested it may have been due to grease contamination in the bearings. Upon further inspection of the bearings, they were right. I don't excessively wash my bike, but I clearly need to put the hose away on this bike. Over loving it I guess.
> Learn from my mistake or learn the hard-way like me.
> ...


Thanks for the update, I meant to reply to this a while ago. Which bearings on the drive side did you have fail? the main pivot bearings, the linkage bearings in the swingarm, the linkage bearings in the frame, or the bearings inside the linkage itself? (For a single pivot bike, there are quite a few bearings!) I'd like to know so I can check them periodically.

I also use moto foam, and find it not 100% effective, because the clay/mud here that i tend to ride on can build up on it and the swingarm next to it in a pile, and then intrude into the derailleur cable feed-through. At least that is my guess as to what happened, because regardless of the cause, the housing on my derailleur cable _inside _the swingarm feedthrough (about 1-2 inches inside) had worn completely through the black coating into the white after about a month running the moto foam. This made a terrible racket when the suspension cycled, and a bunch of dirt/dust came out of the frame when I pulled it out to see.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Do you mind sharing your settings? Had my first ride on the ext today and rebound felt pretty good, might go a bit faster but hsc and lsc were a bit harsh so ill prolly soften those up.
> 
> Im at...
> R-4 clicks
> ...


Same settings. Could probably go 3 on the rebound. I ride flats and find 4 is nice.


----------



## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

Anyone with EXT experience here that can speak to Canadian servicing options? I'm on the shore and suspensionwerx doesn't list them as a supported brand. So just curious how often they need to be sent in for servicing, and what options are out there. Push is another option I'm considering as well for the Dread ... Wasn't originally thinking coil but may go that route. Thanks.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Anyone with EXT experience here that can speak to Canadian servicing options? I'm on the shore and suspensionwerx doesn't list them as a supported brand. So just curious how often they need to be sent in for servicing, and what options are out there. Push is another option I'm considering as well for the Dread ... Wasn't originally thinking coil but may go that route. Thanks.


Alba Distribution, Canadian distributor of high end outdoor goods. does all the EXT stuff and they're in Squamish. I bought my Storia from them and they did all the tuning. Matt and Ben are great to deal with. Sounds like servicing won't be much of a hassle.

The Storia is great.

Who did you order your bike through?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Is the tune on the DPX2 the same on all frame sizes?


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

onawave said:


> interesting. the push reseller in auz is Push Industries - The Ultimate MTB Suspension option - Cyclinic. not saying you arent getting good support. but when i look up the ext reseller. i think its just a single dude. some gmail address etc.


Don't judge by a shiny web page..that's all I'm saying. Call them both and have a chat.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Searching for further info on the Druid and this popped up on Google, no article if you click on the link but can't be far away now!


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

shiny said:


> Searching for further info on the Druid and this popped up on Google, no article if you click on the link but can't be far away now!
> 
> View attachment 1913899


Nice going Kazimer.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Summer's coming

__
http://instagr.am/p/CKp1y02jsqk/


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

So all of this talk about the Storia EXT has got me interested in going coil on my Druid. Currently running an X2 and not thrilled with the climbing performance but it’s very supple going down hill and is by far the best air shock I’ve ever run. I have had a lot of experience with Push, have used them to convert multiple forks over and used to live in the Front Range area where they’re located. I have searched a lot and can not for the life of me find any comparisons to the Storia EXT Lok V3 and the new version of the Push Eleven Six. Does anyone have any first had experience comparing the two? From the research I’ve done, the big selling point for the Storia is the hydrolic bottom out but it seems that the revised version of the Push also has that feature. Do they work the same? 


Ride or Die


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Alba Distribution, Canadian distributor of high end outdoor goods. does all the EXT stuff and they're in Squamish. I bought my Storia from them and they did all the tuning. Matt and Ben are great to deal with. Sounds like servicing won't be much of a hassle.
> 
> The Storia is great.
> 
> Who did you order your bike through?


Will DM you with a few more specific questions is that's ok.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> So all of this talk about the Storia EXT has got me interested in going coil on my Druid. Currently running an X2 and not thrilled with the climbing performance but it's very supple going down hill and is by far the best air shock I've ever run. I have had a lot of experience with Push, have used them to convert multiple forks over and used to live in the Front Range area where they're located. I have searched a lot and can not for the life of me find any comparisons to the Storia EXT Lok V3 and the new version of the Push Eleven Six. Does anyone have any first had experience comparing the two? From the research I've done, the big selling point for the Storia is the hydrolic bottom out but it seems that the revised version of the Push also has that feature. Do they work the same?
> 
> Ride or Die


I can't say as I've never ridden the Push. But at that point, and as custom as they are, you're probably not going to notice the difference other than them both being more phenomenal than anything you've ever ridden. I think the push weighs quite a bit more than the EXT. The push is also more expensive (at least in Canada) so I guess it would come down to cost, and who has the nearest service place to you. Love my EXT on my Druid.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

CHWK said:


> I can't say as I've never ridden the Push. But at that point, and as custom as they are, you're probably not going to notice the difference other than them both being more phenomenal than anything you've ever ridden. I think the push weighs quite a bit more than the EXT. The push is also more expensive (at least in Canada) so I guess it would come down to cost, and who has the nearest service place to you. Love my EXT on my Druid.


how much more does it weigh?

edit. around 200g's more? not sure if thats enough to be worried about really?


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

onawave said:


> how much more does it weigh?
> 
> edit. around 200g's more? not sure if thats enough to be worried about really?


From what I can find online, EXT is 636g and 11-6 is 865g.

I am googling how much a Fox X2 weighs and the internets are telling me 666g. Is it possible that the air X2 and coil EXT weigh the same?? EDIT: upon further research, it looks like the Fox X2 comes in at around 500g, not 666g.

Ride or Die


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Just got my Druid and am pumped to get it built. I’m resizing a Storia that I had on my previous ride but also curious about an Avalanche Tune on the DPX2 - anyone tried it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Forbidden Dreadnought XT 2021


Purveyors of fine MTB products inc Ohlins & DYEDBro. Since right now.




apex-dst.uk


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

onawave said:


> Forbidden Dreadnought XT 2021
> 
> 
> Purveyors of fine MTB products inc Ohlins & DYEDBro. Since right now.
> ...


Whoa, cheaper than I expected.

Ride or Die


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

onawave said:


> Forbidden Dreadnought XT 2021
> 
> 
> Purveyors of fine MTB products inc Ohlins & DYEDBro. Since right now.
> ...


Stealth, Deep Space 9, Nerds


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## harry timbercrank (Jun 11, 2004)

Coming off a Ripmo. Most parts are from Ripmo except 36 and AXS. Loved the Ripmo but this blows me away.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> Thanks for the update, I meant to reply to this a while ago. Which bearings on the drive side did you have fail? the main pivot bearings, the linkage bearings in the swingarm, the linkage bearings in the frame, or the bearings inside the linkage itself? (For a single pivot bike, there are quite a few bearings!) I'd like to know so I can check them periodically.
> 
> I also use moto foam, and find it not 100% effective, because the clay/mud here that i tend to ride on can build up on it and the swingarm next to it in a pile, and then intrude into the derailleur cable feed-through. At least that is my guess as to what happened, because regardless of the cause, the housing on my derailleur cable _inside _the swingarm feedthrough (about 1-2 inches inside) had worn completely through the black coating into the white after about a month running the moto foam. This made a terrible racket when the suspension cycled, and a bunch of dirt/dust came out of the frame when I pulled it out to see.


The two bearings in the removable linkage were still perfect and same with the lower non-drive side bearing in the frame. Spraying mud off the moto foam and the front ring area were the likely culprit. Interestingly enough, I've now extended my fender up by 4" and the muddy ride (not super wet) yesterday shows far less accumulation on moto foam. I might make it an inch wider and then it should stop the mud from sitting on the moto foam on either side of the seat tube(ie.near the idler pulley). Heading out in the rain today for further testing


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Why not apply some Ride Wrap or comparable protection in this area? I have used moto foam for 2 full seasons and (not surprisingly since my bike is Ride Wrapped) have no noticeable wear in this area.
> 
> Can you post a pic or two? My moto foam looks great (IMHO). And it appears to me to have been 100% effective.


I have had ride wrap installed since day one, but it doesn't cover the areas with damage. Here's a pic of my latest set-up (ie. installed yesterday). Extended fender with new motofoam. The extended fender did the job in muddy conditions.
I've also included the paint damage I have, but some of this was done in 4 rides I had before installing the foam. This doesn't show the paint damage to the seat tube and swing arm where the moto foam now lives. When I had the bike apart, I covered this all with 3m transparent tape. Hoping no further damage occurs.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Forbidden’s Instagram today, short blurry vid and the tag ‘Fear Nothing’.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

shiny said:


> Forbidden's Instagram today, short blurry vid and the tag 'Fear Nothing'.


yeah saw this. the froth is real.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

From Instagram. For those of you who don't have it.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> From Instagram. For those of you who don't have it.


In that same story set, I SWEAR they had an EXT coil mounted.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> In that same story set, I SWEAR they had an EXT coil mounted.


Yup. EXT and a Push. March is not what I expected tho... I figured it would be tomorrow. Unless I'm reading my dates wrong which is possible. Haven't got the coffee yet.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Yup. EXT and a Push. March is not what I expected tho... I figured it would be tomorrow. Unless I'm reading my dates wrong which is possible. Haven't got the coffee yet.


I think it's DD/MM/YYYY, so Wednesday. I hope.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> I think it's DD/MM/YYYY, so Wednesday. I hope.


Yup. I f**king hope so. I am so stoked.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

So it turns out that I’m completely incompetent and threaded my Chris King bb backwards. I should just quit mountain biking completely because it seems like I suck at every aspect of it.

Forbidden didn’t make a bad product. I just suck. So keep enjoying your awesome bikes, and don’t listen to a fucking thing I say, because I can’t even thread in a threaded bottom bracket without fucking it up.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> So it turns out that I'm completely incompetent and threaded my Chris King bb backwards. I should just quit mountain biking completely because it seems like I suck at every aspect of it.
> 
> Forbidden didn't make a bad product. I just suck. So keep enjoying your awesome bikes, and don't listen to a fucking thing I say, because I can't even thread in a threaded bottom bracket without fucking it up.


Did they figure it out, or did you before sending it back? Did you cross thread your BB? No judgement zone here. I've done plenty of dumb ****.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

CHWK said:


> Did they figure it out, or did you before sending it back? Did you cross thread your BB? No judgement zone here. I've done plenty of dumb ****.


Sent it back. Fanatik says the shell is trash. I put the non drive side in the drive side and vice versa. I just cost myself an awesome bike.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Sent it back. Fanatik says the shell is trash. I put the non drive side in the drive side and vice versa. I just cost myself an awesome bike.


Holy :S that sucks. So what are your options here...?


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

CHWK said:


> Holy :S that sucks. So what are your options here...?


Fanatik is going to see if Forbidden will do a crash replacement front triangle. Even with that I'm sure it's more money than I can afford right now.

Like my dad always said, if there is a way to screw it up, I will.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Fanatik is going to see if Forbidden will do a crash replacement front triangle. Even with that I'm sure it's more money than I can afford right now.
> 
> Like my dad always said, if there is a way to screw it up, I will.


Damn dude. That's a really expensive mistake. Sorry to hear that.


----------



## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)




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## VeloRyan (May 19, 2008)

unrealityshow said:


> So it turns out that I'm completely incompetent and threaded my Chris King bb backwards. I should just quit mountain biking completely because it seems like I suck at every aspect of it.
> 
> Forbidden didn't make a bad product. I just suck. So keep enjoying your awesome bikes, and don't listen to a fucking thing I say, because I can't even thread in a threaded bottom bracket without fucking it up.


This makes me want to cry. Sorry man, that hurts I'm sure. ??


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

unrealityshow said:


> Fanatik is going to see if Forbidden will do a crash replacement front triangle. Even with that I'm sure it's more money than I can afford right now.
> 
> Like my dad always said, if there is a way to screw it up, I will.


dude, don't be so hard on yourself. 
As a mechanic I'd be very surprised if your bottom bracket can't be fixed. 
Might even be possible to convert it to press fit. 
There's a great community here, I'm sure somebody close by can reach out and help you out.
Hang in there brother, everyone makes mistakes.
Fanatik may not have a left hand thread tap, I'm betting it can be fixed.


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## lemayridesbc (Feb 1, 2021)

unrealityshow said:


> So it turns out that I'm completely incompetent and threaded my Chris King bb backwards. I should just quit mountain biking completely because it seems like I suck at every aspect of it.
> 
> Forbidden didn't make a bad product. I just suck. So keep enjoying your awesome bikes, and don't listen to a fucking thing I say, because I can't even thread in a threaded bottom bracket without fucking it up.


Hey man where are you with the issue? As a machinist and millwright, with a small shop in my garage, if I had done that I would fix it, theres no way I would trash it just for that. Lots of solutions and a local machine shop would definetly be able to help. It may cost a few hundred bucks but I would try that route.


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## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

pinkrobe said:


> In that same story set, I SWEAR they had an EXT coil mounted.


yes they did - and a push shock.


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

onawave said:


> yes they did - and a push shock.


I'll be interested to see if the Eleven Six and Storia are the two stock coil options, or if they'll have a lower-priced coil or air option. I assume that they'll have a more basic option like a DHX2 -- even if the Dreadnought frame was around the same price as the Druid from a manufacturing-costs perspective, adding a premium coil would put it well over $4000 USD for the frameset. I would almost be tempted to inquire about buying it as a shock-less frame and adding a Super Deluxe Ultimate coil with an MRP progressive spring and a remote lockout (though that's only offered in 230mm eye to eye options). Yes, I know remotes are for XC dorks, but pedaling a 154mm-travel, coil-sprung rig up a 5km fire road that gains 1000m might call for my inner dork to come out!

The more I think about it the more I could see room in my quiver for a Dreadnought-sized rig. I want to believe that with the Druid's insane traction and ground-hugging capabilities I'll never lust for anything longer-travel, but with my wandering eye for bikes I have a hard time believing that will be true. Especially if I keep the DPX2 on the Druid and build it as a midweight "trail bike" that I want to pedal around all the time. I've realized that it's a fool's errand to want my quick-pedaling, sprightly trail bike to serve double duty as an ideal choice for the bike park. I've been partly tempted by building up a Raaw Madonna frameset as a rarely-gets-pedaled, shuttle-/park-ready rig with DH tires and whatnot, but after riding a friend's Madonna I was reminded of why I tried to swear off riding Horst-link bikes years ago.

Will be keen to hear what those of you who end up with both Forbiddens in your quivers think of the combination, and how you find their different uses/terrain preferences.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Interesting to see on the Instagram shots that the new bike will have Forbidden on the side of the down tube like @blackaptur-photo did on his vinyl wrapped Druid.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

shiny said:


> Interesting to see on the Instagram shots that the new bike will have Forbidden on the side of the down tube like @blackaptur-photo did on his vinyl wrapped Druid.


and that is just one color way they are teasing. There is a distributor online whos product pages seem to have been indexed by google (no photos unfortunately) that have 3 color ways listed as Stealth, Nerds, and Deep Space 9.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Fanatik is going to see if Forbidden will do a crash replacement front triangle. Even with that I'm sure it's more money than I can afford right now.
> 
> Like my dad always said, if there is a way to screw it up, I will.


We all do dumb **** man. Don't let that get you down. Maybe Forbidden will hook you up somehow. As a dad myself that is some harsh stuff to tell your son. Hope you remind him that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree!


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

CHWK said:


> and that is just one color way they are teasing. There is a distributor online whos product pages seem to have been indexed by google (no photos unfortunately) that have 3 color ways listed as Stealth, Nerds, and Deep Space 9.


Stealth I imagine is another matte black (maybe raw carbon?) offering to match the MY19 Druids; Nerds, maybe is the pink and blue that you can see in the Pinkbike spy shots? What is "deep space 9"?!? I'm imagining some sort of dark blue with sparkles or something wild...


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

gubbinalia said:


> Stealth I imagine is another matte black (maybe raw carbon?) offering to match the MY19 Druids; Nerds, maybe is the pink and blue that you can see in the Pinkbike spy shots? What is "deep space 9"?!? I'm imagining some sort of dark blue with sparkles or something wild...


Yea, I'd imagine it's this bikes version of Cosmic Eggplant. Probably a frame only option.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

gubbinalia said:


> Stealth I imagine is another matte black (maybe raw carbon?) offering to match the MY19 Druids; Nerds, maybe is the pink and blue that you can see in the Pinkbike spy shots? What is "deep space 9"?!? I'm imagining some sort of dark blue with sparkles or something wild...


its going to be black with blue logo / writing


----------



## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)




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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> View attachment 1914299
> 
> View attachment 1914300
> 
> View attachment 1914301


Looks like someone accidentally published it on the 26th and then quickly removed it haha


----------



## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

onawave said:


> its going to be black with blue logo / writing


That sounds great. I'm a sucker for a black frame... especially matte black. So classy and timeless. Somehow "deep space 9" had me thinking it'd be a bit crazier!

The more I think about the Dreadnought geo, the more I wonder about just how long the wheelbase will be, and what it will feel like cornering. If the Druid is already amazing for how planted and calm it feels under significant force during corners and g-outs, what will a presumably 1300mm+ wheelbase (on an XL) feel like? I've only rode 2 bikes with >1300mm wheelbases (Sentinel, Enduro, am I forgetting anything?) and they both took a certain amount of learning/adapting to how they cornered. I used to fear that kind of bike length for climbing but I've really come to embrace the super-long wheel base for technical rock crawling and jumbled roots; as long as you're generally in the center of the bike and putting down power the bike will keep moving forward. The HSP rearward axle path would only enhance that kind of climbing traction I imagine.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

unrealityshow said:


> Fanatik is going to see if Forbidden will do a crash replacement front triangle. Even with that I'm sure it's more money than I can afford right now.
> 
> Like my dad always said, if there is a way to screw it up, I will.


Oh no. That is awful. Maybe also check with a machine shop to see if they can grind out the threads and make it a press-fit BB. Extreme long shot, but there are some wizards out there...


----------



## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

pinkrobe said:


> Oh no. That is awful. Maybe also check with a machine shop to see if they can grind out the threads and make it a press-fit BB. Extreme long shot, but there are some wizards out there...


So, I lost my **** over nothing. Seems like Fanatik cleaned the threads up, and got everything installed with out incident, and they are only charging me shipping. They've earned my trust, not that it's worth much.

It's painfully obvious to me that not riding out side since November has taken a serious toll on my sanity. I'm sorry to everyone here on this thread for my over reaction, and personal drama.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> So, I lost my **** over nothing. Seems like Fanatik cleaned the threads up, and got everything installed with out incident, and they are only charging me shipping. They've earned my trust, not that it's worth much.
> 
> It's painfully obvious to me that not riding out side since November has taken a serious toll on my sanity. I'm sorry to everyone here on this thread for my over reaction, and personal drama.


Good stuff dude! All's well that ends well. Enjoy the bike now!


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

unrealityshow said:


> So, I lost my **** over nothing. Seems like Fanatik cleaned the threads up, and got everything installed with out incident, and they are only charging me shipping. They've earned my trust, not that it's worth much.
> 
> It's painfully obvious to me that not riding out side since November has taken a serious toll on my sanity. I'm sorry to everyone here on this thread for my over reaction, and personal drama.


All good! Stoked that there was a happy ending to this story!


----------



## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Salivating over the dreadnought release. 
Question is:
Complete or Frame. 

Assuming it'll be frame only at first. But parts are so hard to get right now. 
Cost wise a complete will be the ticket but hearing those are 3-4 months out from some other online forum posts. Who knows if thats BS. 
But a build from a frame would be so rowdy.


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

unrealityshow said:


> So, I lost my **** over nothing. Seems like Fanatik cleaned the threads up, and got everything installed with out incident, and they are only charging me shipping. They've earned my trust, not that it's worth much.
> 
> It's painfully obvious to me that not riding out side since November has taken a serious toll on my sanity. I'm sorry to everyone here on this thread for my over reaction, and personal drama.


Now get out there and enjoy the bike! Glad it worked out

Ride or Die


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

gubbinalia said:


> That sounds great. I'm a sucker for a black frame... especially matte black. So classy and timeless. Somehow "deep space 9" had me thinking it'd be a bit crazier!
> 
> The more I think about the Dreadnought geo, the more I wonder about just how long the wheelbase will be, and what it will feel like cornering. If the Druid is already amazing for how planted and calm it feels under significant force during corners and g-outs, what will a presumably 1300mm+ wheelbase (on an XL) feel like? I've only rode 2 bikes with >1300mm wheelbases (Sentinel, Enduro, am I forgetting anything?) and they both took a certain amount of learning/adapting to how they cornered. I used to fear that kind of bike length for climbing but I've really come to embrace the super-long wheel base for technical rock crawling and jumbled roots; as long as you're generally in the center of the bike and putting down power the bike will keep moving forward. The HSP rearward axle path would only enhance that kind of climbing traction I imagine.


we shall soon see my dude. im used to riding my 150 which is pretty progressive and long and you get used to cornering differnetly. infact due to the geo i corner better than some mates on their 27.5


----------



## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Getting closer. This ones running a X2 rear shock


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Salivating over the dreadnought release.
> Question is:
> Complete or Frame.
> 
> ...


Out of curiosity what other forums are discussing Forbidden??



onawave said:


> we shall soon see my dude. im used to riding my 150 which is pretty progressive and long and you get used to cornering differnetly. infact due to the geo i corner better than some mates on their 27.5


I always thought the 150 felt phenomenal in corners, very precise for such a big rig and great energy out of berms. Be interested to hear your 150 vs Dreadnought review.



shiny said:


> Getting closer. This ones running a X2 rear shock


Nice!! That's got to be the base shock option for their stock frames and builds. I was a little worried it would only be offered with a Push or EXT: bougey AF.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

gubbinalia said:


> Out of curiosity what other forums are discussing Forbidden??


The Forbidden owners' Facebook group is very active.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

meeeeep said:


> The Forbidden owners' Facebook group is very active.


Yes people are going to lose their ****


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Only 1:15 to go...


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

I'm like a kid on Christmas.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

The website is down Forbidden Bike Co.


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

Nothing at midnight, then first stop PB, then here, thanks for the update!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

HubbaMan said:


> Nothing at midnight, then first stop PB, then here, thanks for the update!


I am expecting a 9am press release.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

CHWK said:


> I am expecting a 9am press release.


Yah, somebody elsewhere posted 12pm ET, so that's [carry the one...] 9am PT, 10am MT.


----------



## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Only 1:15 to go...


Ha! Been refreshing the site all morning. Froth level = over-froth


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

First Ride: 2021 Forbidden Dreadnought - Ready for Anything - Pinkbike BAM


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Holy ****, it's dual crown compatible


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

It’s up on Fanatik for those in the US


Ride or Die


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Well, I guess I can sell my DH bike now...


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

That video has me jacked up


Ride or Die


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

$8250 CAD for the XT build with a 38. That's not terrible...


----------



## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

DROOL. Its everything i've been wanting.


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> $8250 CAD for the XT build with a 38. That's not terrible...


Yea, $6500 USD, waaay better than expected.

As much as I'd like to cop a frame and go custom like my Druid, I can't legitimize another $8,500 bike (plus the hassle of finding parts these days). I'll wait for the XT builds to drop, not in a rush anyways.

Ride or Die


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Yea, $6500 USD, waaay better than expected.
> 
> As much as I'd like to cop a frame and go custom like my Druid, I can't legitimize another $8,500 bike (plus the hassle of finding parts these days). I'll wait for the XT builds to drop, not in a rush anyways.
> 
> Ride or Die


Building one of these up would be awesome, but easily break that 8500 mark. 
I'm gonna wait for the SLX most likely then swap a few things out. 
Wish they'd offer more than just black in complete though.


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Building one of these up would be awesome, but easily break that 8500 mark.
> I'm gonna wait for the SLX most likely then swap a few things out.
> Wish they'd offer more than just black in complete though.


Yea, that NERDS is siiiiiiick!!

Ride or Die


----------



## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

154mm of rear travel for a bike that is DC compatible....tells you how much of an "over achiever" the 130mm of the Druid is.

and nice shuttle protector on the down tube.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Can't wait for mine. Went with the EXT which honestly turned out to be $800 cheaper than the Formula I was going to swap on after.


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

CHWK said:


> Can't wait for mine. Went with the EXT which honestly turned out to be $800 cheaper than the Formula I was going to swap on after.


At least for U.S. customers on Fanatik's website, the EXT wasn't available as an option. Only the 11-6 and X2.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> At least for U.S. customers on Fanatik's website, the EXT wasn't available as an option. Only the 11-6 and X2.


Not entirely sure what happened with the X2 orders, but I was told I could choose between the 11-6 and the EXT or i'd be waiting til Fall for the X2.


----------



## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Ext vs Push.... which and why?


----------



## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Ext vs Push.... which and why?


Wondering the same for my Druid, anyone tried both?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Ext vs Push.... which and why?


It's just a pricing game at that point. They're both phenomenal shocks compared to an X2 or DHX2 Coil. I love my EXT and see no reason to pay more for the 11-6. It's more shock than I can handle.


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## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

johnsogr said:


> Wondering the same for my Druid, anyone tried both?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was just asking about this and had a couple of responses. Since they are both as custom as you can get for suspension, there won't be a ton of difference in performance. I have read/watched some reviews that state the two shocks have different ride qualities but they were not being reviewed on the Druid and one wasn't better than the other, just different. I will probably switch over to an EXT from my X2, the EXT is lighter (140g difference) and cheaper ($200 difference) than the Push.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Looks like a good downhill/park bike. Definitely not a bike that you’d want to pedal all day with that wheelbase and 35lb weight. Really not a fan of the other colors besides stealth either. For those than can take advantage of it, should be one hell of a machine. Realistically though, there are probably very few people that need a bike like this for there local trail riding.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Looks like a good downhill/park bike. Definitely not a bike that you'd want to pedal all day with that wheelbase and 35lb weight. Really not a fan of the other colors besides stealth either. For those than can take advantage of it, should be one hell of a machine. Realistically though, there are probably very few people that need a bike like this for there local trail riding.


I dont know man - based on the antisquat and initial review i dont think its going to be that much to slog. Sounds like a somewhat efficient pedaling platform that will be fun on just about anything. Probably wont be as fast as the druid on climbs or flatter flow type trails, but if you're buying this thing those probably aren't what you're after anyway. 
I'd put this up a sentinel, and probably pick the dreadnought over the sentinel. 
That being said i'm a large human and 35lb doesn't scare me. I'd go this over a druid for trail duty just due to the better geo for my 6'6" self.


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Wonder why no fender update


----------



## Enn Zed (Apr 24, 2010)

phazedalx said:


> Wonder why no fender update


Agreed - with the questions on here about the fender and the addition of moto foam, I wonder if the clearance around the swingarm has been increased slightly.

Got myself a brand new Cosmic Eggplant Ziggy 2 weeks ago and am working on protecting that area.


----------



## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

phazedalx said:


> Wonder why no fender update


Wonder if they're the same part as the druid and didn't have time/money for a new mold for a larger fender.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I dont know man - based on the antisquat and initial review i dont think its going to be that much to slog. Sounds like a somewhat efficient pedaling platform that will be fun on just about anything. Probably wont be as fast as the druid on climbs or flatter flow type trails, but if you're buying this thing those probably aren't what you're after anyway.
> I'd put this up a sentinel, and probably pick the dreadnought over the sentinel.
> That being said i'm a large human and 35lb doesn't scare me. I'd go this over a druid for trail duty just due to the better geo for my 6'6" self.


Efficient or not, 35lbs is 35lbs. Throw in tire inserts or heavier casing tires and that number creeps up to 36lbs. I would never consider a bike in that class for trail duties. A lot of my rides reach closer to 25mi and 3k+ elevation gain. You start to feel those extra pounds when pedaling around all day. I think a bike like the SB150 would suit people much better compared to this. Comes in about 3-4lbs lighter and is highly capable of being a do it all bike for anywhere you want to take it.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I'm coming off a 36lb Commencal and really looking forward to the Druid, I'm guessing it will be about 4lbs lighter using almost all of the same parts.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Should be a welcome change. My Druid comes in around 31.5lbs in the mullet setup. Even compared to my SB150 which weighed about the same, the Druid is a better climber and overall snappier bike coming out of corners.


----------



## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Review of the Dreadnought up on betamtb.com. Video on YT.

I think PB has the weight of the bike at 34 lbs with a 38 and alloy parts. Going to a 36 with some carbon bits should get that down to 33lbs without too much trouble. That's firmly into ride-all-the-things territory. If I can gut out 4 hour rides in the backcountry on a Trek Slash, I can do it on a Dreadnought...

Damn, did I just talk myself into selling the Druid?


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

...


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

CHWK said:


> Just heads up to anyone with a Druid considering an EXT. I think I am going to sell my two month old Storia and go back to air suspension on the druid since the dreadnought is going to be my burly bike. If anyone wants a good deal feel free to send me a PM and we can work something out. I weigh 200 with gear on and it has a 425 and 400 pound spring.


Would the internal valving change for different rider weights or just the spring? I'm interested but I'm at 165-170lbs geared weight.

Ride or Die


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

C0Mtnbkr said:


> Would the internal valving change for different rider weights or just the spring? I'm interested but I'm at 165-170lbs geared weight.
> 
> Ride or Die


Interesting question that I am not sure I can totally answer. The spring rate would definitely change, but I am not sure how much of the compression tune is really geared towards the riders weight. Maybe someone else here has an idea?


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> I dont know man - based on the antisquat and initial review i dont think its going to be that much to slog. Sounds like a somewhat efficient pedaling platform that will be fun on just about anything. Probably wont be as fast as the druid on climbs or flatter flow type trails, but if you're buying this thing those probably aren't what you're after anyway.
> I'd put this up a sentinel, and probably pick the dreadnought over the sentinel.
> That being said i'm a large human and 35lb doesn't scare me. I'd go this over a druid for trail duty just due to the better geo for my 6'6" self.


i think this is one of the most common mistakes when assigning efficiency based off of antisquat numbers. antisquat takes into account suspension movement based off of lateral acceleration. it may tell you how the suspension will act if you are spinning perfect circles when seated, but what it doesn't account for is the vertical input of a rider smashing the pedals when out of the saddle. a larger, stronger rider is going to induce more suspension movement when sprinting.

simply put, good antisquat will help you spin to the top efficient enough, but it will not always overcome bob when out of the saddle.


----------



## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Dreadnought looks great not sold on the colours or graphics, perhaps they will grow on me. 

Interested to know frame weight, presume it will be a little on the heavier side.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Does anyone else picture/hear Louella singing in the release video


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Efficient or not, 35lbs is 35lbs. Throw in tire inserts or heavier casing tires and that number creeps up to 36lbs. I would never consider a bike in that class for trail duties. A lot of my rides reach closer to 25mi and 3k+ elevation gain. You start to feel those extra pounds when pedaling around all day. I think a bike like the SB150 would suit people much better compared to this. Comes in about 3-4lbs lighter and is highly capable of being a do it all bike for anywhere you want to take it.


Agreed. Coming from an xl Al GG Smash, it weighs damn near the same with less travel. Being 220lbs, i'd rather ride a solid 35lb bike than something lighter that doesnt fit me. 
For me the dreadnought has more travel than i need, but the geo will work better for my height.



tdc_worm said:


> i think this is one of the most common mistakes when assigning efficiency based off of antisquat numbers. antisquat takes into account suspension movement based off of lateral acceleration. it may tell you how the suspension will act if you are spinning perfect circles when seated, but what it doesn't account for is the vertical input of a rider smashing the pedals when out of the saddle. a larger, stronger rider is going to induce more suspension movement when sprinting.
> 
> simply put, good antisquat will help you spin to the top efficient enough, but it will not always overcome bob when out of the saddle.


agreed, but did i say otherwise? It's the only calculation you can really use to cross compare. Its a rough benchmark that you can use to somewhat identify how a bike will pedal. Perfect science? no. But without it your assumptions would be based on other peoples seat of the pants review.


----------



## Snowsed341 (Jun 16, 2015)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Efficient or not, 35lbs is 35lbs. Throw in tire inserts or heavier casing tires and that number creeps up to 36lbs. I would never consider a bike in that class for trail duties. A lot of my rides reach closer to 25mi and 3k+ elevation gain. You start to feel those extra pounds when pedaling around all day. I think a bike like the SB150 would suit people much better compared to this. Comes in about 3-4lbs lighter and is highly capable of being a do it all bike for anywhere you want to take it.


SB150 was a wet noodle compared to my Enduro, I loved my 150 but honestly don't notice any difference in pedaling or the sb150 has the edge barely. DH its not even close (sorry if you own a sb150 but the truth hurts).

I ride all of the regular DH in Aliso and Laguna and still don't understand why people run cushcore, its not needed if you run DD tires or equivalent. If you blow tires up and need cushcore then start to actually try and take real lines. I'm 215 lb geared and knock on wood have not flatted in forever. A lot of EWS racers don't even use cushcore.

I'm not trying to be controversial but if I can pedal 15-18 miles 3-4 times a week at 40 and 215 geared I think the bike will be fine for getting to the top.


----------



## onawave (Jan 4, 2019)

Snowsed341 said:


> SB150 was a wet noodle compared to my Enduro, I loved my 150 but honestly don't notice any difference in pedaling or the sb150 has the edge barely. DH its not even close (sorry if you own a sb150 but the truth hurts).
> 
> I ride all of the regular DH in Aliso and Laguna and still don't understand why people run cushcore, its not needed if you run DD tires or equivalent. If you blow tires up and need cushcore then start to actually try and take real lines. I'm 215 lb geared and knock on wood have not flatted in forever. A lot of EWS racers don't even use cushcore.
> 
> I'm not trying to be controversial but if I can pedal 15-18 miles 3-4 times a week at 40 and 215 geared I think the bike will be fine for getting to the top.


i own a 150 and would totally agree with this. i also currently run cushcore in my bike. i wont be on the new dready. i just don't see the need.


----------



## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Never said it wouldn’t get you to the top. I do own a SB150 along with my Druid but no offense taken. Heavier riders don’t always get along with the rear end flex in the 150, but at 175lbs I’ve never had an issue. Also, my point wasn’t that it couldn’t be ridden to the top of a climb, you can do that on anything. Just making a point that most people would still be served much better by a Druid. Think 25+ mile rides with techy climbs. Not a SoCal fire road climb with a single track descent. I know everyone thinks they need a monster truck of a bike but for most people that’s generally not the case.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Looking at the pics of the non-drive side of the Dzero (trying out nicknames) in the Pinkbikefirst look, it looks like there is a bigger scoop out of the back of the shock tunnel so you can remove the rear shock bolt without having to first remove the front shock bolt. Does it look like that to you folks? 

If it is the case, good idea, Forbidden! It makes it a bit easier to service/diagnose squeaks in/clean the linkage to not have to first pull the shock.


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## adurant (May 31, 2019)

Well I recently sold my XL sb150 to make room for the dreadnought. Secured an XL frame with Push 11/6, probably would've gone ext but apparently it wasn't available or out of stock (at least for US buyers). I was looking for something a decent bit more capable than the 150 (especially after riding my buddies enduro), I'll be posting thoughts soon as I get some rides in. Really excited about the longer chainstays as that was my main complaint with the 150 (in an xl size). I agree thats its probably a bit too much bike for most people as a one bike quiver (even the 150 was), but thats what two bikes are for 

Now I've just got to decide if I put an EXT Era on it or put on a dual crown fork (like an Ohlins dh38 set to 170).


----------



## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Lol, at this point we are talking about different things. If you are thinking of a dual crown, we are just talking about a straight DH bike. Kind of goes back to my point of being a beast to handle for any all day missions with real climbing. To each their own though. Like I said, looks like a sweet rig for those that require it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

You guys should create an official Dreadnaught thread! Or not. Just an idea.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> agreed, but did i say otherwise? It's the only calculation you can really use to cross compare. Its a rough benchmark that you can use to somewhat identify how a bike will pedal. Perfect science? no. But without it your assumptions would be based on other peoples seat of the pants review.


we can agree to disagree. my position is that you cannot interpolate anything from kinematics based off of longitudinal acceleration movement's ability to overcome load shift and apply that to behavior based off of vertical movements (i.e. rider induced bob out of the saddle). i fault the rags for that, with their attempt to answer the oversimplified and vague question of "how does the bike pedal?" bikes don't pedal (eBikes not included). bikes respond to pedal inputs...two of which inputs are distinctly different: standing and seated.

i would opine that total travel and leverage ratio would be a better predictor of a bike's response to pedaling out of the saddle than antisquat. at the same sag, on a longer travel bike you are already starting deeper in the suspension stroke. throughout the travel range, the Dreadnought carries a higher leverage ratio than the Druid. that implies that for every 1mm of suspension stroke, the Dº's rear wheel is going to travel farther, and at the same time the BB drops farther. so for the same pedal mashing, standing input, the Dº is going to sink farther into its travel from baseline than the Druid. that is rider induced bob, not kinematics induced bob.

all of the above becomes amplified when the trail turns from smooth to less than smooth...the impacts of trail features and leverage ratio will exacerbate the out of the saddle, pedal input.

either way, it will be a killer bike.


----------



## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

johnsogr said:


> Wondering the same for my Druid, anyone tried both?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've used 11.6's and storia's on multiple bikes, and preferred the feel of the storia. Maybe because, I think that the EXT's were tuned better for my riding and bike.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adurant (May 31, 2019)

Kmag76 said:


> I've used 11.6's and storia's on multiple bikes, and preferred the feel of the storia. Maybe because, I think that the EXT's were tuned better for my riding and bike.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yea thats the consensus I've seen online (although not many people have experience with both). I'm curious how the new 11/6 compares since its all new and they added hydraulic bottom out.


----------



## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

I've just never seen the need for the dual circuits on the push. Also the Ext is lighter, a bit cheaper and comes with a spare spring.


----------



## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

adurant said:


> Yea thats the consensus I've seen online (although not many people have experience with both). I'm curious how the new 11/6 compares since its all new and they added hydraulic bottom out.


Yeah, I'm sure the new 11.6 with the HBO will be a step up. 
I see you were thinking of running an ERA. It is an amazing fork!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adurant (May 31, 2019)

Kmag76 said:


> Yeah, I'm sure the new 11.6 with the HBO will be a step up.
> I see you were thinking of running an ERA. It is an amazing fork!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Actually its pretty much decided I'm going era. Ohlins support/service seems a bit lacking in the states and I do enough climbing that I'd rather skip the dual crown. Only thing making me wait a bit is the possibility of a coil ext fork.


----------



## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Did some decals for Carter over at Black's Cycles in Comox. He just sent me these shots of them on a Blue Steel Druid. Super epic looking.


----------



## C0Mtnbkr (Feb 23, 2012)

CHWK said:


> Did some decals for Carter over at Black's Cycles in Comox. He just sent me these shots of them on a Blue Steel Druid. Super epic looking.
> 
> View attachment 1914699
> 
> ...


Wow, looks amazing!

Ride or Die


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## HubbaMan (Feb 3, 2004)

CHWK said:


> Did some decals for Carter over at Black's Cycles in Comox. He just sent me these shots of them on a Blue Steel Druid. Super epic looking.
> 
> View attachment 1914699
> 
> ...


Wow those look wicked!!

Might need something for the Dreadnoughts Forbidden logo, looks a bit like an afterthought on the lower side of the downtube....


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

CHWK said:


> Did some decals for Carter over at Black's Cycles in Comox...


That's where the late great Travis Bickle, aka Legbacon, initiator of this thread, worked.


----------



## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Long post warning

Hello all! I have finally reached the end of this thread. It was a great read and i took alot of suggestions to heart when i bought the parts for my build.

Little bit of history and timelines

I have always been a car and motorcycle enthusiast and love to tinker. Never considered mountain biking but had friends that do it. End of 2019 i was in quebec for work and my coworker recommended we rent bikes and head to mount saint anne. I was admittedly over my head but luckily alot motorcycle skills carried over. Long story short i had a blast and only crashed once when i sent a jump waaaay to far.

Then covid hit and i bought a small spec hardrock from a friends wife. Road that for a month then bought a 2020 stumpjumper alloy comp and rode that for the rest of the season. Felt like i wanted to make the jump to carbon and started doing some research and found the druid. Fell in love and through a good friends recommendation i put a downpayment on my druid at outside bike and ski in canmore in september. Started buying parts after that while waiting for the frame. The build was supposed to be budget but to get it how i wanted it definitely ran away from me a bit. Even with using some used components (drivetrain, fork, wheels).

I am currently in france for work till april so i wasnt around when my bike got delivered in early january. Luckily my friend is a bike mechanic and is building it up for me. I am super excited to get home and ride it. Its turning out beautiful!

Also am i the only one who sees a luxury yachts body lines when i look at where the seat tube meets the top tube? Thats got to be my favorite part of the bike.

All you guys getting hyped over the dreadnaught im just here pumped for my druid.

Parts list! 
me

Rear Shock
Fox
DHX2 with ziggy link and needle bearings

Fork
2019 Fox 36 Factory 160mm

Headset
Wolf tooth components

Handlebar
Nukeproof horizon v2 carbon bar 780mm 35mm

Stem
Industry Nine A35 
Black Body, Blue Faceplate

Grips
Evil rusty trombones

Brakes
TRP DHR evo in limited gold with MTX ceramic pads

Rotors
TRP 2 piece 203mm 2.3mm rotors front and back

Shifter
Sram GX

Rear Derailleur
Sram GX

Cranks
Descendant
170mm

Chainring
Sram 32t

Chainguide
MRO

Bottom Bracket
Sram DUB

Chain
Sram GX

Cassette
Sram GX

Pedals
Yoshumura chilao yoshicote

Front Rim
29' e*thirteen espec carbon race

Rear Rim
27.5 e*thirteen espec carbon race

Front Tyre
Maxxis
DHF 29x2.4

Rear Tyre
Maxxis
DHR 2 27.5x2.4

Saddle
Ergon sm pro small

Seatpost
Fox
Transfer
150mm

Seatpost Lever
Pnw loam lever

































I also bought a second set of cheap 27.5s to put roadie tires on so when im training most of the week im not burning out my maxxis. I think it looks cool like that!


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Also FWIW i am 5'7" 185lbs out the shower and riding a size medium and live in flat southwestern ontario but get to travel for work and bring my bike with me. I am planning a trip to canmore in june and miiiiight be considering a push 11-6 in the rear....


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Long post warning
> 
> Hello all! I have finally reached the end of this thread. It was a great read and i took alot of suggestions to heart when i bought the parts for my build.
> 
> ...


Looks Supermoto with the road tires !
Nice build man, really well thought out and put together.
You're going to love the bike


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Bailey100 said:


> Looks Supermoto with the road tires !
> Nice build man, really well thought out and put together.
> You're going to love the bike


Thanks! yea i thought it was like a supermoto or like a bmx bike or something.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Feeling Shreddy!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Aquaholic said:


> Feeling Shreddy!
> View attachment 1914891
> View attachment 1914892
> View attachment 1914893


I definitely get jealous of those AXS set ups. So clean and tidy.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

CHWK said:


> I definitely get jealous of those AXS set ups. So clean and tidy.


Agreed. I cant wait for wireless brakes! No more cables and tubes!


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## Enn Zed (Apr 24, 2010)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Long post warning
> 
> Hello all! I have finally reached the end of this thread. It was a great read and i took alot of suggestions to heart when i bought the parts for my build.
> 
> ...





Hotrodstu77 said:


> Long post warning
> 
> Hello all! I have finally reached the end of this thread. It was a great read and i took alot of suggestions to heart when i bought the parts for my build.
> 
> ...


Congrats on the bike - pretty easy to go over budget when building!

First ride on my eggplant mullet setup today 🤘


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Enn Zed said:


> Congrats on the bike - pretty easy to go over budget when building!
> 
> First ride on my eggplant mullet setup today 🤘


Thanks! Let me know how you like it. Ive ridden 2 29ers and a 27.5. Looking forward to trying the 28.25 average.


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## senorbanana (May 11, 2017)

Damn that rear hose is really short tho


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

senorbanana said:


> Damn that rear hose is really short tho


I was wondering about that too. Not just too short, but entering the wrong side of the head tube. It'll get torn off pretty easily if the bars spin, and you'll be riding home with no rear brakes.
Love the hopes though, I've got the same brakes on my beast.
I wasn't sure about the Helm v2 when I got it, but after some tuning, I am quite happy with it.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Long post warning
> 
> Hello all! I have finally reached the end of this thread. It was a great read and i took alot of suggestions to heart when i bought the parts for my build.
> 
> ...


Perfection!!!


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

jay_paradox said:


> Perfection!!!


Thanks!


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I was wondering about that too. Not just too short, but entering the wrong side of the head tube. It'll get torn off pretty easily if the bars spin, and you'll be riding home with no rear brakes.
> Love the hopes though, I've got the same brakes on my beast.
> I wasn't sure about the Helm v2 when I got it, but after some tuning, I am quite happy with it.
> 
> View attachment 1914981


Keen for more feedback on the Helm. Is it coil or air? What fork did you have previously?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

springs said:


> Keen for more feedback on the Helm. Is it coil or air? What fork did you have previously?


It's a HelmII air, set to 150mm travel.

I had a DVO Diamond, which replaced my Fox 36 after it's third (out of warranty) CSU failure. Suspensionwerx wouldn't work on the Fox because the steerer was loose, and I don't blame them.
The Diamond had very harsh HSC, even when dialed back to nearly zero, and the OTT would top out even when dialed up to max. No csu failures though 
The HelmII isn't creaking, has a good feeling hsc circuit, so my wrists don't hurt and my hands aren't cramping. Still dialing the positive chamber volume to get a good compromise between comfort and big hits, but it's not blowing through its travel or packing down.
The service interval is only 50 hrs, so we'll see how that plays out in the real world, but as it sits, I would buy it again.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Just posted my build on "vital mtb bike checks" if you want to check it out, link below (hope it works)

happy to share more details here if anyone's interested, most pics taken last week from a trip to "blue derby" Tasmania, Oz









Forbidden Druid - Extreme Build


View Vital MTB member flemmd's mountain bike check "Forbidden Druid - Extreme Build".




www.vitalmtb.com


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## Enn Zed (Apr 24, 2010)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Thanks! Let me know how you like it. Ive ridden 2 29ers and a 27.5. Looking forward to trying the 28.25 average.


First ride aligns with my demo ride on a mullet setup - big rolling speed and feel of a 29er, but really agile and lively in the back. It'll take a while to adapt and adjust suspenion. Things feel firmer than my previous bike, but more supported and I'm getting bucked around a lot less. When it's not mid-winter and I'm actually in riding shape I think it will be super fun.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1915122
> 
> Just posted my build on "vital mtb bike checks" if you want to check it out, link below (hope it works)
> 
> ...


How does it feel running coil front and rear? I am considering running push front and rear however i am worried it wont be the right set up for what i ride most of the time. I have only ever ridden air suspension but i like the idea of not having to foddle with air all the time. Especially since i travel constantly for work and bring the bike with me. I probably get to the mountains once a year. The rest of the time is around fairly flate areas with good trail systems.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1915122
> 
> Just posted my build on "vital mtb bike checks" if you want to check it out, link below (hope it works)
> 
> ...


Link doesn't seem to work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Energ8t said:


> Link doesn't seem to work.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just go to bike checks and look for the same pic, or type in search Druid, link does work for me though, just tried it again


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> How does it feel running coil front and rear? I am considering running push front and rear however i am worried it wont be the right set up for what i ride most of the time. I have only ever ridden air suspension but i like the idea of not having to foddle with air all the time. Especially since i travel constantly for work and bring the bike with me. I probably get to the mountains once a year. The rest of the time is around fairly flate areas with good trail systems.


The coils feel so good regardless of type of trail, it is really set and forget, I have heard others adjust compression and/or rebound for specific trails but I don't touch anything, bike is very balanced front to back


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

4vdean said:


> The coils feel so good regardless of type of trail, it is really set and forget, I have heard others adjust compression and/or rebound for specific trails but I don't touch anything, bike is very balanced front to back


Agreed. Aside from the weight penalty there are no other downsides. The traction this bike has is almost laughable and having the coil up front you can just plow through anything.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

4vdean said:


> The coils feel so good regardless of type of trail, it is really set and forget, I have heard others adjust compression and/or rebound for specific trails but I don't touch anything, bike is very balanced front to back


Well i guess i know what im spending my bonus on this year haha.

How bad is the weight penalty? Like an extra pound or two?


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Well i guess i know what im spending my bonus on this year haha.
> 
> How bad is the weight penalty? Like an extra pound or two?


I'm not actually sure, maybe 2 pounds max, I haven't compared weights, but the storia is light for a rear coil, I think similar to a fox X2 and lighter that the push, and the fork coil depends on spring weight, use a bit more oil so extra there too, the avalanche damper I have is not that heavy really but again requires a bit more oil so some of the extra weight is mostly oil


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

4vdean said:


> I'm not actually sure, maybe 2 pounds max, I haven't compared weights, but the storia is light for a rear coil, I think similar to a fox X2 and lighter that the push, and the fork coil depends on spring weight, use a bit more oil so extra there too, the avalanche damper I have is not that heavy really but again requires a bit more oil so some of the extra weight is mostly oil


I wonder why theres such a weight difference between the storia and the 11-6


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> I wonder why theres such a weight difference between the storia and the 11-6


EXT runs a rather short spring, and honestly the weight difference isn't as large as maybe we are led to believe.
That said, I'm a believer in EXT.

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6920 using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> I wonder why theres such a weight difference between the storia and the 11-6


I mean look at photos of the two shocks. Way more material and bulk on the 11-6.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

4th ride on the new build, yesterday. I'm starting to like this thing. I did have something loosen up on the rear end. It's not the hub, it feels more like one of the pivots. Anything I should look for?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

CHWK said:


> I mean look at photos of the two shocks. Way more material and bulk on the 11-6.


Difference between the two is 15g



















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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Difference between the two is 15g
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not exactly.

The EXT has the option of running a 105mm length spring instead of the 117. See all of the extra threads on the shock body of the EXT where you can go with a shorter spring? This saves about 70 grams as I recall.

That 11-6 already has the lighter (shorter) spring installed.

My 210 x 55 EXT Arma with a 105mm x 525# spring weighed just under 700 grams. I've since went to a Springdex and a heavier spring and this added a bit of weight but I didn't weigh it like this.

That said I'd kill for a composite spring to lighten these things up.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Interesting! Thanks for the insight. Just built my Druid, and can’t wait to compare the two.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Aquaholic said:


> View attachment 1916112
> View attachment 1916113
> 
> 
> 4th ride on the new build, yesterday. I'm starting to like this thing. I did have something loosen up on the rear end. It's not the hub, it feels more like one of the pivots. Anything I should look for?


I'd check the shock bolts, and rear axle first. 
Or is that what you meant by "it's not the hub"

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

johnsogr said:


> Interesting! Thanks for the insight. Just built my Druid, and can't wait to compare the two.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you buy both a storia and an 11-6 for your druid? If so i might be interested buying which ever one you dont keep!


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> Did you buy both a storia and an 11-6 for your druid? If so i might be interested buying which ever one you dont keep!


Had the Storia from my Ripley so I got it lengthened and revalved. I'm certainly not going to keep both, so I'll let you know! Should be later this spring (I don't ride when it's nasty and snowy)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

johnsogr said:


> Had the Storia from my Ripley so I got it lengthened and revalved. I'm certainly not going to keep both, so I'll let you know! Should be later this spring (I don't ride when it's nasty and snowy)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thats perfect timing for me. Keep me posted and ill save them dollas


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Has anyone tried an angle set reducer on their Druid? This bike would be way more appealing to me if it was 64.5 or even 65deg HA


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

habaden said:


> Has anyone tried an angle set reducer on their Druid? This bike would be way more appealing to me if it was 64.5 or even 65deg HA


I have a 1 degree headset reducer and a 160mm fork, and I find it amazing. The geo is the same except for the 64.1 HA and an additional 16mm wheel base, climbs and corners the same but plows much better.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

ADING said:


> I have a 1 degree headset reducer and a 160mm fork, and I find it amazing. The geo is the same except for the 64.1 HA and an additional 16mm wheel base, climbs and corners the same but plows much better.


Does increasing fork travel + running a reducer void your warranty?


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

habaden said:


> Does increasing fork travel + running a reducer void your warranty?


The 160mm fork doesn't, but I don't know about the headset.


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## crgcrmny (Jun 20, 2019)

ADING said:


> The 160mm fork doesn't, but I don't know about the headset.
> Fo


RE: The 160 Fork, this is a statement/question concerning some calculations and measurements.

The Forbidden website states the the HTA is 65.6 with a 571mm Fork Axle to Crown measurement. A 2020 Pike at 150mm travel the ATC is 561mm thereby steepening the HTA to 66 degrees. A 2020 Fox 36 at 150mm travel ATC is 557, further steepening the HTA to like 66.2. It seems that to get to the as published head tube angles one NEEDS to run a 160mm fork to me? Pike at 160mm travel is 571mm ATC and a Fox 36 at 160mm is 567mm ATC. Please correct me if i'm wrong!

PS I'm going to 160mm and possibly an angle set.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

crgcrmny said:


> RE: The 160 Fork, this is a statement/question concerning some calculations and measurements.
> 
> The Forbidden website states the the HTA is 65.6 with a 571mm Fork Axle to Crown measurement. A 2020 Pike at 150mm travel the ATC is 561mm thereby steepening the HTA to 66 degrees. A 2020 Fox 36 at 150mm travel ATC is 557, further steepening the HTA to like 66.2. It seems that to get to the as published head tube angles one NEEDS to run a 160mm fork to me? Pike at 160mm travel is 571mm ATC and a Fox 36 at 160mm is 567mm ATC. Please correct me if i'm wrong!
> 
> PS I'm going to 160mm and possibly an angle set.


Increasing the travel by 10mm slackens the HA by 0.5 degrees (65), as well as changes the rest of the geo. By adding the angle set with the increased travel, just the wheels base and HA have drastic changes.
Don't know it that helped.


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## crgcrmny (Jun 20, 2019)

ADING said:


> Increasing the travel by 10mm slackens the HA by 0.5 degrees (65), as well as changes the rest of the geo. By adding the angle set with the increased travel, just the wheels base and HA have drastic changes.
> Don't know it that helped.


Ading, What I'm saying is that looking at axle to crown measurements, your bike is at 65.6 degrees with the 160 travel (no angleset), and 64.6 with the -1 angleset. Which is rad AF - and where i'm going.

It's neither here nor there, I don't think I could tell the difference in 0.5 degrees, it was just something I noticed on the website.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Anyone know what the ATC would be on a 160 Yari/Lyrik?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Anyone know what the ATC would be on a 160 Yari/Lyrik?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Going off memory it's 571mm.

On a previous topic of HTA's, based on previous experience I too believed that a HTA of between 65-66 degrees was ideal for an aggressively ridden trail bike, as that seemed to play out on my previous bike (Foxy 29) as I tweaked this dimension a few times.

That said on my new bike ('21 SJ Evo), ridden the same, the bike really works well with a considerably slacker HTA, currently 63.5' and causing no handling issues. No flop on climbs, or difficult technical maneuvers.

Clearly there is more to what this geo number accomplishes and how it feels on a particular bike than just this one dimension in isolation.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

You’re right, just found it on the web


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## crgcrmny (Jun 20, 2019)

johnsogr said:


> Anyone know what the ATC would be on a 160 Yari/Lyrik?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It looks to be 571mm on a Lyrik at 160mm


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

crgcrmny said:


> RE: The 160 Fork, this is a statement/question concerning some calculations and measurements.
> 
> The Forbidden website states the the HTA is 65.6 with a 571mm Fork Axle to Crown measurement.


At the top of the geo chart it says 150mm fork, but as you noted it shows axle to crown for a 160mm. So I wonder which it is?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Wondering the same thing. I’m gonna convert to 160 and see how I like it


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I'm going to run mine at 150. They designed it with that in mind so I'm going to start there.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

But that’s what I’m wondering. Clearly it’s designed around 150, but then their geo chart is based around 160


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Backyard session this afternoon. Getting in sync with this bike!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

johnsogr said:


> But that's what I'm wondering. Clearly it's designed around 150, but then their geo chart is based around 160
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But is it based around 160? We don't know.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I think based on the Geo table it is (length O is 571, or 160 mm fork)










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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Reached out to Forbidden the geo chart on the website is for a 150mm fork, 571 is the maximum you can run.


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## CCPHammer (May 12, 2007)

Aquaholic said:


> Backyard session this afternoon. Getting in sync with this bike!


 I want your backyard!!!


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

After 6 months of riding the Druid (and 860km according to Strava) I stripped down the linkage for some TLC and to check things over. It's actually quite a well documented and clever design that makes it relatively easy to work on and maintain.

What surprised me is the marks the linkage spacers have made and how much they have rubbed. Is this normal?
















I've also gone through an idler pulley (bearing feels OK but teeth are shot) and the bottom bearings in the rear swingarm are feeling a little notchy.

What are other owners experience with bearings and parts longevity?


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

I just received my Mr. Brownstone frame in the mail today. Love the frame color in person but not a fan of the decals. I want to change the colors; can anyone recommend a company that would good for custom decals? And I reached out to Forbidden for the decal file and haven't heard back. Any ideas on how I can get the decal file? TIA


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

rodzilla said:


> I just received my Mr. Brownstone frame in the mail today. Love the frame color in person but not a fan of the decals. I want to change the colors; can anyone recommend a company that would good for custom decals? And I reached out to Forbidden for the decal file and haven't heard back. Any ideas on how I can get the decal file? TIA


Send me a DM. Ive done a few decal kits for folks here


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

rodzilla said:


> I just received my Mr. Brownstone frame in the mail today. Love the frame color in person but not a fan of the decals. I want to change the colors; can anyone recommend a company that would good for custom decals? And I reached out to Forbidden for the decal file and haven't heard back. Any ideas on how I can get the decal file? TIA


Decal file was posted a while ago, and found it!









Forbidden Bike Co Druid


This is the reply from Forbidden (copied from the FB group): During our initial ride testing of the Druid we found that during high torque situations, most notably steep climbs, the chain could be thrown from the chainring. Due to the arrangement of our idler pulley in relation to the chainring...




www.mtbr.com


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

shiny said:


> Decal file was posted a while ago, and found it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for finding that!


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Hmmm. Now I want to take mine apart and see what's what. I have a little more mileage on mine, but no issues with the pulley.



kingofbiscuits said:


> After 6 months of riding the Druid (and 860km according to Strava) I stripped down the linkage for some TLC and to check things over. It's actually quite a well documented and clever design that makes it relatively easy to work on and maintain.
> 
> What surprised me is the marks the linkage spacers have made and how much they have rubbed. Is this normal?
> View attachment 1916718
> ...


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> After 6 months of riding the Druid (and 860km according to Strava) I stripped down the linkage for some TLC and to check things over. It's actually quite a well documented and clever design that makes it relatively easy to work on and maintain.
> 
> What surprised me is the marks the linkage spacers have made and how much they have rubbed. Is this normal?
> View attachment 1916718
> ...


I had a similar problem to this. I got my frame in late summer, and would hear occasional ticking/creaking noises. I noticed wear at those pivots too, and if I torqued everything to spec the swingarm assembly didn't move as easily as it should (shock removed). Forbidden said it was a "bad paint run", but it looks like many colors were affected--not sure how paint batches work at scale, so maybe.

On their rec, I carefully sanded away the paint where the flanges of the thin spacers rubbed (search this thread), and that fixed the problem for me. However, enough people had this problem that Forbidden made some spacers that don't have the thin outer flange. Contact them and they'll send them for free.

With the new 'flangeless' spacers, the bearings are slightly less well protected, which is a bummer, but it's not like it a real labyrinth seal anyway, it's more of a dust shield. I'd imagine the v2 of this bike might have re-designed bearing seals. On the other hand, it seems like most folks haven't had a problem with bearing/seals going bad, so maybe it's just the bummer of being on the tail of a distribution.

Also, for your notchy bearing you can pop the rubber seals out on the bearing and see how the bearings and grease look. if they clean up ok, you can re-grease, rather than have to press them out.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

High everyone, in case you are interested, I posted a comparison between my newly purchased 2021 Stumpjumper EVO and Druid (which I've now ridden for one full season) in the Specialized forums. See below. Any thoughts or suggestions are more than welcome.

****
Finally had more time to ride my Stumpjumper EVO more frequently over the last 6 weeks and do direct back to back comparison's to my Forbidden Druid (size medium; 130mm in the rear and 2019 Fox 36 Grip 2 at 150mm). Just to clarify up front, I just ride for fun anywhere between 1-3 times a week. Racing, racing times and KOMs are irrelevent for me personally. I am 5'7" and currently 155 lbs out of the shower. S3 size EVO Comp, which is pretty much stock except for the fork (2020 Manitou Mezzer Pro at 160mm), dropper (150mm OneUp) and handlebar (OneUp carbon bar). I have to say, the EVO's geometry and handling are it's best attributes. It feels always very balanced and handles very neutral in all situations, whether it be cornering, high speed chunky stuff or slow, tight uphill switchback climbs. I feel always perfectly centered, in the saddle or standing. I am usually pretty active and moving around a lot when descending, but definitely noticed there is less need to do so than other bikes (compared to my Druid or my YT Jeffsy 27 or other bikes I demoed like the Ibis Ripmo). I find it also pedals very well and efficiently for a 150mm travel bike and am perfectly fine riding the shock in open mode at all times, including my 1-2 hour fire road uphill grinds. Rear suspension performance descending is pretty good, but not great with the stock DPX2 Performance shock, using the larger 0.8x spacer. I played around with higher pressures initially, but settled at 170 PSI, giving me close to 15mm sag and leaving me around 5mm unused travel after some air time and the biggest compression I can/dare to dish out, which is a 3 foot drop to flat. I am happy with having those last few millimeters left in reserve as additional margin for error...just in case. The standard volume spacer was definitely not working for me.Talking about suspension performance, that's where my Druid truly shines and outperforms the EVO, even though it nominally has "only" 130mm of rear travel. Pedaling performance and climbing efficiency are a coin toss between the EVO and the Druid and both feel equally good to me. The EVO may feel slightly snappier for sudden power burst, but we're talking minute nuances and it's not a trait that's particularly important to me for how and where I ride. The Druid's suspension performance in slow, nasty, rocky, loose and ledgy climbs is excellent. I cannot judge that aspect for the EVO, since I didn't have a chance yet to ride it on those conditions.The EVO handles tight uphill switchbacks effortlessly, whereas my Druid requires more active riding style and handlebar steering to stay on course for those same tight switchbacks.I think this advantage is solely due to the EVO's super dialed geometry, even though it has significantly longer static wheelbase than my medium Druid. The Druid's suspension magic kicks in when going down fast and hard and is always super capable to handle any kind of hits, i.e. landing after some bigger jumps and drops or fast repetitive ledgy and square edged hits.It's not the most plush suspension out there, but feels always very composed and super capable at all times. This is with the DPX2 Elite shock that comes stock with the Druid, so in essence the same shock that came with my EVO comp (yes, the Elite has adjustable LSC, but I run it one click from full open on the Druid). In short, for me the EVO has more dialed geometry and better more balanced handling, whereas the Druid outshines the EVO in terms of rear suspension performance when descending. That said, now that I have the direct comparison, the Druid's steering feels more twitchy for high speed cornering and bermed sharp high speed turns, whereas the EVOs steering in those situations is rock solid and secure. In a perfect world, I'd want the EVO's geometry combined with the Druid's suspension performance. Sigh...I can only keep one of the two...that's the deal with my wife. Deep down I love the Druid more than my EVO, probably due to purely emotional baggage like underdog small company factor, liking the design and lines of the Druid more than the EVO and suspension performance. Rationally, the EVO is probably the better choice, as the geometry feels definitely more dialed and balanced (i.e. more forgiving with rider errors) and suspension can be improved with better shock or custom shock tune or both. That said, now I am wondering if a Large Druid would bridge the geometry gap to my S3 EVO or playing around with slackening the head angle on my medium Druid by 1-1.5 degrees for longer wheel base and less twitchy handling for high speed cornering and leaning the bike in high speed bermed turns. Sigh, we'll see, need to make up my mind in next few weeks.  
****


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

hbar said:


> I had a similar problem to this. I got my frame in late summer, and would hear occasional ticking/creaking noises. I noticed wear at those pivots too, and if I torqued everything to spec the swingarm assembly didn't move as easily as it should (shock removed). Forbidden said it was a "bad paint run", but it looks like many colors were affected--not sure how paint batches work at scale, so maybe.
> 
> On their rec, I carefully sanded away the paint where the flanges of the thin spacers rubbed (search this thread), and that fixed the problem for me. However, enough people had this problem that Forbidden made some spacers that don't have the thin outer flange. Contact them and they'll send them for free.
> 
> ...


Thanks @hbar, good to know someone has had a similar experience. After I read this I went and checked the freedom of swing arm and linkage movement with the shock removed (again). With the linkage torqued up to 14nm as recommended the swing arm and linkage move freely. I wiped down and cleaned the spacers and the frame contact points before re-installing.

I've sent an email to Forbidden also to gauge their opinion.

I guess I'll run it for the rest of the month and then look to service the lower bearings.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

fizzywater said:


> High everyone, in case you are interested, I posted a comparison between my newly purchased 2021 Stumpjumper EVO and Druid (which I've now ridden for one full season) in the Specialized forums. See below. Any thoughts or suggestions are more than welcome.
> 
> ****
> Sigh, we'll see, need to make up my mind in next few weeks.
> ****


Perhaps you could gift the SJ EVO to your wife..😉


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Anybody have any additional EXT Storia settings to share? Just installed mine today, but looking for a good starting place for the HSC/LSC. Is it similar to tuning the stock DPX2 with both of those close to being fully open?


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

rodzilla said:


> I just received my Mr. Brownstone frame in the mail today. Love the frame color in person but not a fan of the decals. I want to change the colors; can anyone recommend a company that would good for custom decals? And I reached out to Forbidden for the decal file and haven't heard back. Any ideas on how I can get the decal file? TIA


What decal color are you thinking? I also have a Brownstone and am thinking about custom decals...but don't have any great ideas...


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Anybody have any additional EXT Storia settings to share? Just installed mine today, but looking for a good starting place for the HSC/LSC. Is it similar to tuning the stock DPX2 with both of those close to being fully open?


Was wondering the same thing. I'm just going to start fully open compression and fully closed rebound and repeat a local DH. I have a 400 lbs spring (I'm 170lbs) - I'll let you know where I end up.

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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

Frazam said:


> What decal color are you thinking? I also have a Brownstone and am thinking about custom decals...but don't have any great ideas...


I'm looking at a subdued purple and green combo. Doesn't sound right but I used a palette picker and those were the colors the sung to me. The codes are Pantone 405C for the frame and Pantone 5807C and 582C for the lettering. I used this site at the end of this post to come up with other colors that would match. Just lock the brownstone color and it show other colors that will work based on the color "style" (complementary, triaidic, etc)









Coolors - The super fast color palettes generator!


Generate or browse beautiful color combinations for your designs.




coolors.co


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Anybody have any additional EXT Storia settings to share? Just installed mine today, but looking for a good starting place for the HSC/LSC. Is it similar to tuning the stock DPX2 with both of those close to being fully open?


I shared my shock settings awhile ago in the thread. It's in a pic from the manual, and I wrote down what I had been using.

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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

_HENDO_ said:


> Perhaps you could gift the SJ EVO to your wife..😉


I would, but she has absolutely zero interest in my MTB passion...just not her thing. Anyway, I am now seriously considering selling the SJ EVO and medium Druid and get either large Druid or possibly even medium Dreadnought. Not sure though, either one has its drawbacks. Large Druid has long 450 seat tube and Dreadnought may be way more bike than I need, not to mention availability...First world problems .


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Kmag76 said:


> I shared my shock settings awhile ago in the thread. It's in a pic from the manual, and I wrote down what I had been using.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you, I did find that picture and will maybe start with those settings to see how it feels. Was hoping for some additional input as well.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Here's a SloTech move that I normally do on my SingleSpeed. I wasn't sure how the Druid would handle the slow, techy moves, especially being that it's an XL. But, surprisingly...I didn't die!

Note: Mute the sound. Not sure where the squealing came from...it's not my brakes.


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## powderturns (Jun 19, 2007)

Aquaholic said:


> Here's a SloTech move that I normally do on my SingleSpeed. I wasn't sure how the Druid would handle the slow, techy moves, especially being that it's an XL. But, surprisingly...I didn't die!
> 
> Note: Mute the sound. Not sure where the squealing came from...it's not my brakes.


Sweet move at the end there! Just curious and not intending to be a doucheroni - you seem to be getting pretty deep in the fork travel - what's your sag/psi/tokens at?


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

my rear fender seems to have cracked both holes that hold it on, and now obviously comes right off, anyone had this?


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

powderturns said:


> Sweet move at the end there! Just curious and not intending to be a doucheroni - you seem to be getting pretty deep in the fork travel - what's your sag/psi/tokens at?


Good eye! These slo mo vids are useful, eh? And, you're spot on... it is sitting low in it's travel. The fork is a coil Helm (Which feels amazing!). Currently, I have _zero_ preload and compression adjustments need some tweaking. This was my 6th ride on the bike and we're still getting aquainted.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

How does the 130mm of travel on the Druid compare to bikes with a little more travel?

Would you consider the Druid an "enduro lite" bike?

How is tech climbing, any issues with feeling boggy?

I've been on GG bikes for the past few years, but I am totally high pivot curious. Anyone have experience with a GG bike?


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Nurse Ben said:


> How does the 130mm of travel on the Druid compare to bikes with a little more travel?
> 
> Would you consider the Druid an "enduro lite" bike?
> 
> ...


I myself am very high pivot curious and am thinking about doing an upgrade to the druid from my current 2020 Norco Optic. I'm looking for something a little more burly but still fun to ride on mellower trails like my optic is.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

habaden said:


> I myself am very high pivot curious and am thinking about doing an upgrade to the druid from my current 2020 Norco Optic. I'm looking for something a little more burly but still fun to ride on mellower trails like my optic is.


I was in your shoes with a Ripley a month ago and pulled the trigger. High pivot curious, wanted to run coil and potentially mullet. I went for it but still need to ride it! Been real s***** here in PA...

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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

These questions come up a lot. We need a FAQ or something. Regardless, the short answers:
It feels and rides like it has more travel [I compare it to the Ripmo and Slash]. 
Enduro Lite is a reasonable description. So is winch and plummet.
Tech climbing is stupendous - I think it's better on tech than it is on smooth trails and fire roads. 
It's going to handle a bit more sharply up front than the GG Smash, but be more stable overall when you're in the rough.



Nurse Ben said:


> How does the 130mm of travel on the Druid compare to bikes with a little more travel?
> 
> Would you consider the Druid an "enduro lite" bike?
> 
> ...


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

What’s the longest travel fork that folks are running?


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Nurse Ben said:


> What's the longest travel fork that folks are running?


I am on a 160mm and that seems to be max for a druid, Most people are 150mm some 140mm. As for the Dreadnaught I think the limits of suspension have yet to be seen.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> I am on a 160mm and that seems to be max for a druid, Most people are 150mm some 140mm. As for the Dreadnaught I think the limits of suspension have yet to be seen.


I was told by Forbidden you can put a 180 or 190 dual crown on the front... so plenty of travel for that beast. I'll stick with 170mm on mine, and 150mm on the Druid. Horses for courses.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Hotrodstu77 said:


> I am on a 160mm and that seems to be max for a druid, Most people are 150mm some 140mm. As for the Dreadnaught I think the limits of suspension have yet to be seen.


That's good, I'm not picky, I run a Helm Coil 160mm on my GG Shred Dogg now.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Just don't exceed 571 A2C as it will void the warranty.









Frequently Asked Questions


WE ARE MOUNTAIN BIKERS. WE MAKE MOUNTAIN BIKES. Before all else we are proud to have a team of individuals who are passionate about riding and contributing to the mountain bike community. Forbidden was created by real mountain bikers with the simple goal of making our vision of the perfect...




www.forbiddenbike.com


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Does anyone else running the EXT get tired of the constant noise it makes? I knew it was noisy but didn’t realize I would hear that little click off the top for the entire climb up. Other than that, the shock feels so nice


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Does anyone else running the EXT get tired of the constant noise it makes? I knew it was noisy but didn't realize I would hear that little click off the top for the entire climb up. Other than that, the shock feels so nice


Is it coming from the plastic top out washer ?
I used 404 super glue to keep mine from doing that. It's a pretty common fix.
I kinda like the other noises it makes .


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

I have already taken care of the washer issue. It makes a quick clicking noise as soon as I put any weight on the bike


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

QuickSilverZ said:


> I have already taken care of the washer issue. It makes a quick clicking noise as soon as I put any weight on the bike


 ah, ok.
mine does not. Any chance it's bushing related ?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Thought I'd throw these upgrade pics up for shits-n-giggles 8 months into riding. Finally has all the tidbits I wanted on it; adding slowly over time to feel the diffrence. It's been a near perfect ride and just smashes my PRs even when I don't feel like I am or try to. And it's lookin dialed and sorted.

Push coil is back at the recommended #450. Tried a softer spring for the hell of it and the sag was way too much. I'm at about 187 geared; cusp of 425/450. Made more adjustments to compression and rebound. Feels pretty dialed. Surprised heavier dudes on the forum are running the lighter spring. (#425 lb spring for sale. Ping me).

Fork was awesome with Secus I added months back, but decided to add a Runt I came across. Damn... even better. Just feels butter on small bump, rides high still without dive or losing mid support. Still has the coil like linear. Waiting for my custom bushing burnishing tool to arrive. Highly anticipating that mod.

Secus got a massive heat shrink tube for protection. I did drop this bike once at the bike park into a rock garden (blind run)... guess where it landed? *Vorsprung will replace for any reason within a year. I just decided I don't need a small fabricator taking a financial hit for some scratches. Sorted.

XT is still spot on. The "unrecalled" XT/XTR shifter dilemma sux balls. No idea if they fixed the issue since Shimano doesn't want to admit any issues beyond just warrantying the broken shifters. Mine is coming in May, returned last November (seriously?). SLX apparently hasn't had any return spring issues like the others, so I bought one and inserted into my frame for if/when the replacement XT shifter I bought breaks while I'm 15 miles into nowhere. Just an FYI, if you encounter this problem. Forums for that conversation exist.

Added 203mm disc up front and added MTX Red Label Race ceramic hybrid brake pads. Pretty good so far. No rattling.

One Up Carbon bar. Perfect.

ESI Chunky grips. Best for chundery, rocky rides IMO. Cheap.

Assegai/Dissector combo. So good for high desert.

Took the bike apart and cleaned the bearing/pivots a few months back. (had a noise that was bothering me). Turned out to be the brake line rear triangle hole with dirt it in. That said, it was good to clean the pivots. Bearings looked fine. Seem to handle cleaning alright.

No pulley issues at all. Never dropped a chain. Extra pulley in tool box.

Stock seatpost was dumped immediately. Didn't work. Added Transfer with Wolf Tooth lever.

New decals I cut at work finish it off nicely (Thanks to CHWK). I made my own Fox 36 fork decals. I wanted the same neon orange as the rest of the bike. Die-cut are susceptible to sharp edges peeling up easily compared to printefd decals. So I just made a minimal "36" with slight rounded edges.

I'm not one to spend money on wheels, but I may do what I've done before and lace up some cheap carbon rims to the DT 350. I had good luck with that before and for about $500. In no hurry, but these rims do need truing often.

Yes, I ride it hard. Yes, I maintain my bikes. No it won't look this good forever. Alas, photos are forever....


































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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Energ8t said:


> Thought I'd throw these upgrade pics up for shits-n-giggles 8 months into riding. Finally has all the tidbits I wanted on it; adding slowly over time to feel the diffrence. It's been a near perfect ride and just smashes my PRs even when I don't feel like I am or try to. And it's lookin dialed and sorted.
> 
> Push coil is back at the recommended #450. Tried a softer spring for the hell of it and the sag was way too much. I'm at about 187 geared; cusp of 425/450. Made more adjustments to compression and rebound. Feels pretty dialed. Surprised heavier dudes on the forum are running the lighter spring. (#425 lb spring for sale. Ping me).
> 
> ...


Wow thats a beaut! glad to hear youre riding it hard and putting it away clean!


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

QuickSilverZ said:


> I have already taken care of the washer issue. It makes a quick clicking noise as soon as I put any weight on the bike


I just run a standard shock, and I used to get a noise like that due to the dust covers on the linkage ever-so-slightly binding. For a long time I thought it was coming from the shock. Don't forget the ones inside the tunnel.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

rodzilla said:


> I'm looking at a subdued purple and green combo. Doesn't sound right but I used a palette picker and those were the colors the sung to me. The codes are Pantone 405C for the frame and Pantone 5807C and 582C for the lettering. I used this site at the end of this post to come up with other colors that would match. Just lock the brownstone color and it show other colors that will work based on the color "style" (complementary, triaidic, etc)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great idea - thanks!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Anyone here have a ziggy link they want to part with?


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Nurse Ben said:


> How does the 130mm of travel on the Druid compare to bikes with a little more travel?
> 
> Would you consider the Druid an "enduro lite" bike?
> 
> ...


I was on an alloy smash for a few years before my druid. The GG bikes love to be pushed reallllly hard and that transfers very well to the druid. I think the druid is more playful and doesn't get caught up in the chuck as much.

Techy climbing is great. Feels a bit better than the smash mostly in regards to traction in the rear.

My druid is a160/130 mullet with a coil fwiw.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> My druid is a160/130 mullet with a coil fwiw.


pics please!


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

are you guys noticing much extra effort is required when pedaling due to the pulley?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> are you guys noticing much extra effort is required when pedaling due to the pulley?


No, and even if there was, you just become used to it I guess? I haven't jumped on another bike in awhile tho.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> are you guys noticing much extra effort is required when pedaling due to the pulley?


Not that I can tell.

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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

jay_paradox said:


> are you guys noticing much extra effort is required when pedaling due to the pulley?


No. And contrary to some people, I don't really hear much noise from the pulley, especially while on the trail.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

jay_paradox said:


> are you guys noticing much extra effort is required when pedaling due to the pulley?


No, it spins smoothly. The lower guide does provide some resistance, but that can be adjusted so it's minimal.


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

Anyone 6'2"/188cm go for the L or did you go with the bigger XL?


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

I would go XL for sure. I’m 6’ on a size Large and it does feel a bit small compared to other bikes I have owned/ridden.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

6thElement said:


> Anyone 6'2"/188cm go for the L or did you go with the bigger XL?


I'm 73", with a + ape index, on an XL. I couldnt imagine riding an L.

FWIW --- even though everyone wants to focus on sizing by reach and stack, TT length is still the number that will make or break you. The in the saddle position is much less dynamic than the out of the saddle/attack position. As such 10mm difference in TT length will be felt much more in your back than 20mm in reach length. Most L bikes have a 640ish TT, while most XLs have a 660ish TT. The L Druid is 627 TT and the XL is 651....kind of making them tweeners.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Everyone is very focused on reach, when I started riding, nobody mentioned reach when talking about sizing it was all top tube length. As tdc_worm says it's very important in sizing and riding comfort. The majority of my rides are spent climbing or on rolling terrain, usually in a seated position where top tube length is more important. When I was looking into sizing on the Druid I was hung up on the fact that it had a 5mm shorter reach than my Commencal Meta AM, but looking beyond that number, the top tube on the Druid is actually 6mm longer despite the shorter reach. I comfortably rode the Meta with a 35, 40 and 50mm stem. I ultimately settled on the 50mm, which is where I will be starting on my XL Druid. I'm 6'2" with longer than average arms. I also ride an older Chromag Surface that has 450mm reach in XL, I can still descend fast on it.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

This dudes killing it on the Druid






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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> This dudes killing it on the Druid
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, Lew just went to Norco this year. He went nuts on the Druid and the Dreadnought last year.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Once you go ziggy do you go back? Anyone with experience?


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## daginge78 (Feb 28, 2021)

Hi guys, I bought this Druid last week and have a clicking noise when first sitting on it. Seems to come form shock tunnel area and when putting power down when riding you occasionally feel it coming through cranks. Don't suppose anyone has had similar issue and can shed any light?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

phazedalx said:


> I was on an alloy smash for a few years before my druid. The GG bikes love to be pushed reallllly hard and that transfers very well to the druid. I think the druid is more playful and doesn't get caught up in the chuck as much.
> 
> Techy climbing is great. Feels a bit better than the smash mostly in regards to traction in the rear.
> 
> My druid is a160/130 mullet with a coil fwiw.


Is the Druid as capable as a Smash?

What I want to avoid is being undergunned, that was the situation with the Pistola 130/150.

I had a Mega Trail, it's was more than I needed, now I'm riding a 140/160 Shred Dogg which is just right.

I have no experience on a high pivot, the closest I got was seeing a Druid on the TRT last summer.

I'd be swapping over all the parts from my Shred, though I'll probably keep the Shred but convert it back into a 27.5


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

daginge78 said:


> Hi guys, I bought this Druid last week and have a clicking noise when first sitting on it. Seems to come form shock tunnel area and when putting power down when riding you occasionally feel it coming through cranks. Don't suppose anyone has had similar issue and can shed any light?


Sexy bike. I hope you get the clicking sorted. Did you try checking that everything is properly tightened in that area?

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Quick question...

What stem length are you guys running? 

I’m running an 800 wide, 20mm rise Next R bar and a 50mm Turbine stem. Thinking of changing things up to an 800 wide, 35mm rise bar and a 35mm stem. 

No real issue with the current set up. Just a little bored and curious. 

Thanks.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question...
> 
> What stem length are you guys running?
> 
> ...


I just did something similar. I'm on a medium Druid and I went to a 35mm stem, 800mm 35mm rise OneUp bar. I'm 5'7.

I much prefer the smaller cockpit.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

daginge78 said:


> Hi guys, I bought this Druid last week and have a clicking noise when first sitting on it. Seems to come form shock tunnel area and when putting power down when riding you occasionally feel it coming through cranks. Don't suppose anyone has had similar issue and can shed any light?


I had a clicking develop in my Push. Rotated the coil and it disappeared. Might be worth trying possibly. (?)

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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question...
> 
> What stem length are you guys running?
> 
> ...


I'm running the weareone bar stem combo. 800mm width, 20mm rise and 45mm stem,
I was on the oneup bar with 50 stem and 35 rise.
I prefer the new setup but did add one 5mm spacer under the stem.
Cheers !


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

tdc_worm said:


> I'm 73", with a + ape index, on an XL. I couldnt imagine riding an L.
> 
> FWIW --- even though everyone wants to focus on sizing by reach and stack, TT length is still the number that will make or break you. The in the saddle position is much less dynamic than the out of the saddle/attack position. As such 10mm difference in TT length will be felt much more in your back than 20mm in reach length. Most L bikes have a 640ish TT, while most XLs have a 660ish TT. The L Druid is 627 TT and the XL is 651....kind of making them tweeners.


Agreed on TT length, current FS trail bike has 648TT, but it's 9 years old with a 73SA, fatty HT is 657TT with 74.5SA. I can't imagine dropping to some of the newer < 630TT that L size bikes have. I need to demo some "new" geo bikes to see how they feel with the much steeper SA.

Have you got a side on photo of you XL posted in this thread anywhere?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Bailey100 said:


> I'm running the weareone bar stem combo. 800mm width, 20mm rise and 45mm stem,
> I was on the oneup bar with 50 stem and 35 rise.
> I prefer the new setup but did add one 5mm spacer under the stem.
> Cheers !


Coincidentally, I am thinking of buying Da Package from WAO myself. That's exactly what I am looking at.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

blackaptur-photo said:


> my rear fender seems to have cracked both holes that hold it on, and now obviously comes right off, anyone had this?


Mine came out of the box broken. I used some epoxy putty and filled the holes. I then drilled new holes through the dried epoxy. Seems to be working for now.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

daginge78 said:


> Hi guys, I bought this Druid last week and have a clicking noise when first sitting on it. Seems to come form shock tunnel area and when putting power down when riding you occasionally feel it coming through cranks. Don't suppose anyone has had similar issue and can shed any light?


Is that Lew's bike? Sooo jealous, how much did you get it for?


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Coincidentally, I am thinking of buying Da Package from WAO myself. That's exactly what I am looking at.


I had been thinking of trying a shorter stem one the oneup. 
Was in a bike store and the guy says, "hey check this out" and pulls out the purple bag with the weareone bar stem combo. I shouldn't have looked at it because It's so nice I just bought it on the spot. 
It's insanely light and the workmanship is amazing.
I wasn't intending to replace the oneup lol.


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## daginge78 (Feb 28, 2021)

habaden said:


> Is that Lew's bike? Sooo jealous, how much did you get it for?


Yeah that's the bike. Its a stunning machine.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

habaden said:


> Is that Lew's bike? Sooo jealous, how much did you get it for?


It totally is... no wonder its creaking. I've seen how he rode that thing hahaha


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Nurse Ben said:


> Is the Druid as capable as a Smash?
> 
> What I want to avoid is being undergunned, that was the situation with the Pistola 130/150.
> 
> ...


The druid is far more capable. I was always chasing more rear travel with the smash. The druids 130 feels like 160.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> It totally is... no wonder its creaking. I've seen how he rode that thing hahaha


Yeah, perhaps the bike may have encountered some reasons to creak at some point. Better go back and watch some of those videos 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question...
> 
> What stem length are you guys running?
> 
> ...


800 wide, 20 rise, 50 stem. On the first couple of rides, I wasn't feeling the bike that much. A buddy said that my front end looked high, so we dropped the stem by 12.5mm and improved the handling dramatically. ?‍♂


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

9th ride this weekend FUN AF bike!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Ordered: Sz large Brownstone 😆

I have a Mara Pro and Helm Coil for suspension, it’s been a good run with GG, but it’s time to taste something different.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Nurse Ben said:


> Ordered: Sz large Brownstone ?
> 
> I have a Mara Pro and Helm Coil for suspension, it's been a good run with GG, but it's time to taste something different.


Congratulations Ben. I eagerly await your feedback once you are up and rolling. There aren't many people who have had the benefit of owning the wide cross section of bikes you have ridden, from which to draw in terms of comparisons. It will be interesting to hear how the Druid stacks up from your perspective.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Congratulations Ben. I eagerly await your feedback once you are up and rolling. There aren't many people who have had the benefit of owning the wide cross section of bikes you have ridden, from which to draw in terms of comparisons. It will be interesting to hear how the Druid stacks up from your perspective.


In other words: My name is Ben and I'm a gear whore 

I'm gonna keep the Shred Dogg built up, swap some components, and rebuild it as a 27.5; I've been riding it as a 29er.

Then once I get the Druid built, I can compare the two properly.

Honestly, it was a tough choice cuz I really do like the way GG bikes ride, I've been on a GG bike for over two years, longer than any bike or bike brand since, well since forever 

My primary purpose in getting a Druid is to see if a high pivot bike climbs and descends tech better. If the koolaid is real, then I'll be a happy camper.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Dropper post max insertion question:

Sz large, what fits slammed, planning on using a One Up V2.

My current set up measures 700mm from seat rail to center of bb, that’s running a 210mm dropper with 25mm of post base showing, 155mm cranks (i

Thanks for the feedback.

I read through thirty pages of posts, got tired of looking.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Nurse Ben said:


> Dropper post max insertion question:
> 
> Sz large, what fits slammed, planning on using a One Up V2.
> 
> ...


I've got a large with the 210 one up v2. It doesn't quite fit all the way slammed to the collar but probably as close as I could get. Got mine shimmed to 190.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

CHWK said:


> I've got a large with the 210 one up v2. It doesn't quite fit all the way slammed to the collar but probably as close as I could get. Got mine shimmed to 190.


Can you pull a measurement from the bb center to the seat rail?

What crank length are you running?
What's your I seam, crotch to floor, barefoot?

Thanks a bunch, I want to order a post tomorrow so it's here when the frame arrives; my GG posts are all 30.9 ☹


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Nurse Ben said:


> Can you pull a measurement from the bb center to the seat rail?
> 
> What crank length are you running?
> What's your I seam, crotch to floor, barefoot?
> ...


Can't measure at the moment, but I run 175mm cranks. I am 5'11". I bought the one up so I could shim it down if needed. 190mm seemed perfect.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> Dropper post max insertion question:
> 
> Sz large, what fits slammed, planning on using a One Up V2.


There is a Forbidden Owners group on facebook and someone recently posted this exact question. One guy did reply he was able to slam a 210mm One Up, but no measurements given. In the Druid tech specs on the Forbidden website it says max insertion for a large is 270mm.


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/ForbiddenBikeCo_Druid_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf?v=1602012420


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

ALS650L said:


> There is a Forbidden Owners group on facebook and someone recently posted this exact question. One guy did reply he was able to slam a 210mm One Up, but no measurements given. In the Druid tech specs on the Forbidden website it says max insertion for a large is 270mm.
> 
> 
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/ForbiddenBikeCo_Druid_TechnicalSpecifications.pdf?v=1602012420


Thanks, I missed the Druid tech link.

270mm is slammed for a One Up 180mm dropper and +25mm for a 210mm dropper.

I'm hoping to build it this weekend, but the stars must align and shipping these days has gotten slooooow.

Got some concerns about fit, I'm 6', longish arms, sz Large might be short, but I've been gradually leaning toward shorter front triangles after going longer.

I still wish the rear triangles were shorter, but I'm sure it'll be fine, esp if I keep the Shred as my "jib" bike. The really long rear triangle on the XL is one reason I'd go with a smaller frame.

I love new bike builds ?


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## adurant (May 31, 2019)

Nurse Ben said:


> Dropper post max insertion question:
> 
> Sz large, what fits slammed, planning on using a One Up V2.
> 
> ...


By my math that 210 is going to be tight, you are going to have 27mm of post showing at max insertion (insert length is 297 on oneup), and have a 20mm longer seat tube vs the shred dogg (assuming size 3). I do find that forbidden max insertion is conservative though. So pretty much 100% will fit shimmed to 190, more than that you won't know till you try in person.

On a separate note which 155mm cranks are you running and how do you like them? I went down from 175 to 170 and actually preferred the pedaling, now kind of tempted to go even shorter on my dreadnought. Haven't pedal struck yet but figure its always nice to have clearance and I may prefer the pedaling as well.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> Dropper post max insertion question:
> 
> Sz large, what fits slammed, planning on using a One Up V2.
> 
> ...


I just measured my large Druid. I have 700mm from BB to rails. My 210mm OneUp V2 dropper has 10mm exposed post, although I have slammed it in the past. 175mm cranks, size 43 shoes with the cleats slammed all the way back.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Thanks guys, you are so helpful!

Yeah, a 190mm might work, but a 180mm would work for sure.

I'm gonna order both 210mm and 180mm posts and see what I can get, slammed would be ideal, but even with the Shred Dogg Sz 3 I have 20+ mm showing on a 210mm dropper.

I just sat down and compared specs between a Smash Sz 3 Revved in the short setting to a Druid sz Large (this is a better comparison than to my Shred) and they are quite comparable, though the Smash has a steeper STA and a slacker STA.

I'm gonna start with a 160mm fork and see how it feels. I'm thinking that because the Druid has a more rearward axle path, it won't compress quite as fast as the fork, so more for travel will keep the front end up longer and be more comparable to what the back end is doing. Thoughts?

Getting excited, I may be on my Druid this weekend!!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

adurant said:


> By my math that 210 is going to be tight, you are going to have 27mm of post showing at max insertion (insert length is 297 on oneup), and have a 20mm longer seat tube vs the shred dogg (assuming size 3). I do find that forbidden max insertion is conservative though. So pretty much 100% will fit shimmed to 190, more than that you won't know till you try in person.
> 
> On a separate note which 155mm cranks are you running and how do you like them? I went down from 175 to 170 and actually preferred the pedaling, now kind of tempted to go even shorter on my dreadnought. Haven't pedal struck yet but figure its always nice to have clearance and I may prefer the pedaling as well.


I'm running 155mm Canfields, they are the bomb, no issues with having enough power to make climbs or tech moves, really reduce pedals hits, and they spin so nice. I also have Canfield 160mm on my other bike. I ran 165mm cranks for a couple years. I'm used to short cranks from riding muni, my go to crank was 150mm.

Folks poopoo the short crank thing, plenty of folks believe they can't be as powerful with a shorter crank, but with gears it's a non issue. For perspective, I'm a fairly big guy at 195# and 6' tall, sz 13-14 flippers, and I love a hard climb, I will get out of the seat to crank; I'm an old school roadie, but short cranks are not a problem.

If you were riding SS, sure, a shorter crank could reduce your power, but not so with a geared bike. I used to ride SS and I would probably still run short cranks, but maybe stick with 160-165mm.

Canfield cranks are killer!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

How come Forbidden doesn't have it's own thread under bike mfgs?

Seems like 135+ pages plus a new second bike design should justify that, this group is certainly more active than the GG group; nothing personal, I still love you guys .


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Anyone ever bend the e13 chain tensioner? I think I did somehow. Seems closer to the wheel and my chain drags on it now. Have people bent it back? I feel like I saw somewhere people were experimenting with MRP guides as well...


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## Rellerman (Mar 3, 2021)

1


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## Rellerman (Mar 3, 2021)

Does anyone care to share the weight of their bikes? I would like some opinions as to whether a druid could be built up at around 28 pounds… both of my bikes right now weigh 28 pounds. 
I plan on using the stock DPX2 shock, 150 mm fox 36 fork. RF next SL 170mm cranks. Carbon handlebar and lightweight stem. The wheels will be carbon, 28 bladed spokes, I definitely will use “trail” tires instead of heavier casing tires. Thanks!


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

32 but mine is built the opposite of yours. Im sure it can be done.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Mine is 34. Carbon everywhere, but a coil in the fork and a coil in the rear.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

32.8 with Minions, a 36 and an 11-6. Like CHWK, carbon galore, and not an inexpensive build.

Not sure I could get this bike to 28 pounds. If I could (and I highly doubt that would be possible), I suspect I would be breaking things left, right and centre.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> 32.8 with Minions, a 36 and an 11-6. Like CHWK, carbon galore, and not an inexpensive build.
> 
> Not sure I could get this bike to 28 pounds. If I could (and I highly doubt that would be possible), I suspect I would be breaking things left, right and centre.


What tire compound are you running?


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## crgcrmny (Jun 20, 2019)

Rellerman said:


> Does anyone care to share the weight of their bikes? I would like some opinions as to whether a druid could be built up at around 28 pounds&#8230; both of my bikes right now weigh 28 pounds.
> I plan on using the stock DPX2 shock, 150 mm fox 36 fork. RF next SL 170mm cranks. Carbon handlebar and lightweight stem. The wheels will be carbon, 28 bladed spokes, I definitely will use "trail" tires instead of heavier casing tires. Thanks!


Mine is at 33lbs with DPX2, Pike, We Are One Faction wheels, double Magic Mary's (Super Trail) and front/back Tannus inserts


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

My coil/coil build comes in at 34.2 pounds. I'm always amazed when people buy a bike like this and then emasculate it.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

I'm about 33.2lbs with my size L, carbon parts and an EXT Storia coil shock. You'd be hard pressed to get this bike built up to 28lbs without making major sacrifices. Definitely not the bike for you if you are worried about weight.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Weight is such an annoying thing to focus on these days. At 34 pounds this bike climbs and descends better than any other bike i've ever had. My last bike was a 30 pound Revel Rail and this Druid blows it out of the water in every way.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

I am with everybody else on the weight issue here. My Druid weighs in at about 32lbs with Carbon everything. That makes it 3 pounds heavier than my previous bike (SC Nomadv3). Not only does it handle the rough stuff better (with the possible exception of 'Dorp to Falt'), but it's consistently faster on both the climbs and the descents, with lower HR on my monitor when I am climbing. Better pop on jumps too. The upper idler is a non-issue too, since everybody seems to mention it. The lower one adds a tiny bit of drag, but you don't notice either one when pedalling.
And climbing gnarly root-fields is FAR BETTER than my Nomad, or a hardtail. I'll admit that the HT wins on fire-road climbs, but is way less fun trying to get down alive here in the rain-slick PNW.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

While talking weight what does the frame set weigh? Only mention I can find is on Fantaiks website which says around 3kg (6lbs) for a Druid, the Dreadnought would be heavier. Seems porky but given the bikes intentions a bit of extra beef is probably not bad.

Has there been any reports of broken frames? Not seen any mentions anywhere.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Rellerman said:


> Does anyone care to share the weight of their bikes? I would like some opinions as to whether a druid could be built up at around 28 pounds&#8230; both of my bikes right now weigh 28 pounds.
> I plan on using the stock DPX2 shock, 150 mm fox 36 fork. RF next SL 170mm cranks. Carbon handlebar and lightweight stem. The wheels will be carbon, 28 bladed spokes, I definitely will use "trail" tires instead of heavier casing tires. Thanks!


32 + dirt: carbon bar/wheels, XT parts, DHF/DHR EXO+, XT pedals, Fox 36 + X2. I didn't go for super light parts, just stuff I know works.

Just for comparison's sake, my old Trek Slash and Ibis Ripmo v1 were right around the same weight with similar parts spec.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

My frame is already here, just waiting on the dropper posts to arrive, then it’s build time!

Eyeballing a Sz large Druid to a Sz three Shred Dogg in short setting, they are very comparable, so I’m not concerned at all about fit.

The frame is brown with yellow labels, gonna build it up with yellow cages and yellow pedals, should look sweet 👍


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## Rellerman (Mar 3, 2021)

Maybe a better question should have been.....what does a large frame weigh by itself with a DPX 2 shock?
If the answer is 7.5 or 8 pounds then it’s probably almost impossible to make it to 28 pounds with a full no expense spared build even with light weight tires…and by light weight I mean tires that are no more than 850 grams....


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

Rellerman said:


> Does anyone care to share the weight of their bikes? I would like some opinions as to whether a druid could be built up at around 28 pounds&#8230; both of my bikes right now weigh 28 pounds.
> I plan on using the stock DPX2 shock, 150 mm fox 36 fork. RF next SL 170mm cranks. Carbon handlebar and lightweight stem. The wheels will be carbon, 28 bladed spokes, I definitely will use "trail" tires instead of heavier casing tires. Thanks!


My XL Druid weighs 32lbs with DPX2 and 160mm fork, but I could easily knock off 3+lbs. 
I am running DHR2 & Assegai, EXO+ on WAO wheels, so I could save 1 - 1.5 lbs there.
Lighter pedals, currently 9120.
Grabaruk cassette instead of my XT cassette.
Lighter stem, Currently RF Affect.
Remove the lower chain guide and fork fender.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

ADING said:


> My XL Druid weighs 32lbs with DPX2 and 160mm fork, but I could easily knock off 3+lbs.
> I am running DHR2 & Assegai, EXO+ on WAO wheels, so I could save 1 - 1.5 lbs there.
> Lighter pedals, currently 9120.
> Grabaruk cassette instead of my XT cassette.
> ...


How's the handling with a 160 fork? Does the rear suspension match up well?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Rellerman said:


> Maybe a better question should have been.....what does a large frame weigh by itself with a DPX 2 shock?
> If the answer is 7.5 or 8 pounds then it's probably almost impossible to make it to 28 pounds with a full no expense spared build even with light weight tires&#8230;and by light weight I mean tires that are no more than 850 grams....


Fanatik shows 6.8lbs, I assume without shock. A DPX2 should add another pound and a bit. 8 lbs is probably pretty close.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

did you guys see this, what do you think it is?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I’m guessing it starts with a higher leverage and has more progression


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

jay_paradox said:


> How's the handling with a 160 fork? Does the rear suspension match up well?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it pairs well with 160mm, I also installed an angle adjuster to keep most of the geo the same.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

habaden said:


> View attachment 1919434
> 
> did you guys see this, what do you think it is?


YOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Also a bit more travel im guessing?


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

Rellerman said:


> Does anyone care to share the weight of their bikes? I would like some opinions as to whether a druid could be built up at around 28 pounds&#8230; both of my bikes right now weigh 28 pounds.
> I plan on using the stock DPX2 shock, 150 mm fox 36 fork. RF next SL 170mm cranks. Carbon handlebar and lightweight stem. The wheels will be carbon, 28 bladed spokes, I definitely will use "trail" tires instead of heavier casing tires. Thanks!


My Large Druid is 28 pounds/13kg. It rides light for what it is capable of and I wanted a reliable spec.
Exo casing tyres (with inserts) on carbon wheels (28H front/32 rear)
Fox 36 and DPX2
XT build
Carbon bars, lightweight stem and saddle

With my XC race wheels/tyres and carrying no spares in the downtube it'd be closer to 12kg/ 27oz but that kinda defeats the point of the bike running it in this spec really.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Today was a good day. Wheels should be here Monday but I get to get everything else built up over the weekend.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

I think I've settled on my EXT Storia settings for the druid if anyone is interested.

Rebound 5 clicks
HSC full open
LSC 1 click from full open
375 spring.

Mine came speced with a 325 spring and I may even have to go to a 400.
I'm 155lbs


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> I think I've settled on my EXT Storia settings for the druid if anyone is interested.
> 
> Rebound 5 clicks
> HSC full open
> ...


How can you tell that the spring needs to be bumped up?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

jay_paradox said:


> How can you tell that the spring needs to be bumped up?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just blows through the travel with no support


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

phazedalx said:


> Just blows through the travel with no support


I added a few clicks of HSC to mine and it made a huge difference. If yours is blowing through the travel on drops etc, it might be worth trying.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Built up the Druid this morning, still gotta run the rear brake and drivetrain, the damn frame protection stuff is a PITA! Never again 🙄

A One Up 210mm dropper goes nearly all the way into the frame BUT the actuator binds, so I had to pull it out a bit, probably got 25-30mm showing. It’ll work for me cuz I’m running short as **** cranks 👍
I
I’m running a 160mm Helm MK II Coil fork with a 20mm spacer under the stem and Burgtec riser bars, love that tall front end. Overall the fit is really good, seat center in the rails, 50mm stem, and the reach is greater than my Shred in the short position, so I can easily use a 35mm stem.

I wish designers would go away from internal line routing, at least for the rear brake, that is such a pain in the arse!

I should be riding tomorrow, stoked from some tech climbing to see what it’ll do.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Bailey100 said:


> I'm running the weareone bar stem combo. 800mm width, 20mm rise and 45mm stem,
> I was on the oneup bar with 50 stem and 35 rise.
> I prefer the new setup but did add one 5mm spacer under the stem.
> Cheers !


Do you feel a ride quality or comfort difference between the Dapackage vs. the Oneup bar?
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

stayed up late to finish the build, no issues other than it's a complete unnecessary PITA running internal brake lines ?

I rode around a bit; it's kinda late..., 175psi to get the DPX2 to synchronize with the Helm Coil (55#); I'll install the Mara Pro tomorrow.

I reaslly didn't notice much added friction, most if it came from the lower guide. It feels pretty good ?

Still waiting on some big yellow pedals, a fender for the fork, and I gotta build a new rear wheel; that one has hole through the rim so it's tubed.

Hurricane fest in three weeks!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> stayed up late to finish the build, no issues other than it's a complete unnecessary PITA running internal brake lines ?


I used foam on the derailleur and brake hose through the top tube. It was a challenge to fit them both through there with the foam as it isn't a very smooth surface. I'll admit I like the look of the internal routing, but that's about all that's appealing about it. I kind of like how some companies are building a channel that just conceals the cables, or like GG did with panel that goes over them.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

Suns_PSD said:


> Do you feel a ride quality or comfort difference between the Dapackage vs. the Oneup bar?
> Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


Honestly no, but for me the 20mm rise works better. The oneup bar is a suoer nice bar as well. I just wanted to adjust my reach and ended up with the weareone bar stem combo.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

First ride: Ten miles, maybe 2k climbing, mixed volcanics, sand, tech and flow, a few jumps, some natural features, nice and mixed.

Tech Climbing: The tech section is like trials light, pretty tough to ride without a few dabs or repeats, the first move outta the parking lot is a tight S turn climb on irregular lava flow. I had two repeat this move once, but normally I get that move.

What I figured out quickly is that because the rear wheel moves back, I had to change my approach to climbing over square edged rock. 

On my GG bike, when I’d approach rock I’d slow down and press the tire into the rock, then grind over. On the Druid, if I slowed down I’d bog down, because I didn’t the have the tire pressure to push against. Once I figured this out, I just pedaled into and through the rock.

XC climbing on loose: The climbing was pretty good, I didn’t lose traction any more than normal, perhaps traction was better on the Druid because my partner lost traction on his GG bike. In terms of overall ride quality and efficiency, the Druid pedals well, no obvious drag, I only heard chain noise at really low speeds; the noise is from the guide/roller.

Initially I was running 145psi in the Mara Pro, this felt okay but it was out of balance with my coil fork; I also wasn’t using much travel, so I reduced to 135psi which rode more plush and balanced better with the fork.

Downhill flow: the bike is fast, the back end stays on the ground, no hopping or wallowing, carves well, feels very balanced. Going though turns was stable, no issues with traction. At speed the Druid is quite happy to get off the ground.

Downhill tech: this is definitely a strong suit for the Druid, it was fast through the rocky stuff, handled square hits amazingly well, very fast and super composed.

Drops, jumps, and natural airs: so I’m an old guy, I’m not a park rat, and I don’t ride downhill parks. My idea of a good time is rocky tech stuff that makes you work. That said, I’ve never met a rock I didn’t like, so if I see a natural feature I’ll jump it. 

The Druid has no issues landing, but it does take some added speed to get into the air cuz it’s just not as poppy as a normal bike. Go fast enough and the Druid performs very well, it’s agile in the air, predictable, and the landings are amazingly composed.

Speaking of composed, there’s this wood feature built out over a steep hill, hit it with speed and you get maybe five to six feet vertical and fifteen to twenty feet horizontal, the landing is steep, and there’s a hard turn at the bottom. Normally I ride this drop and I can feel the landing, on the Druid I didn’t feel anything, it was like spreading cream cheese on hot bread. I did the drop again to make sure it wasn’t the koolaid speaking, same landing experience.

Overall: great bike, wish I’d gotten one sooner. The magic is real.

Pros: absorbs square hits, traction for miles, plush ride, composed when landing drops

Cons: low bb, I hit my pedals more than a few times and that’s running 155mm cranks and flat pedals. Only one water bottle mount. Internal line routing is so yesterday.

Set up: I ride the Druid with the stock DPX2 snd was not disappointed, though the Mara Pro a better shock. The 160mm fork paired well with the Druid, geo felt good, not overly slack, no front end floppiness. I love the high front end! 

The damp ride of the Druid pairs well with a good air shock; I’d hesitate to dampen it further with a coil shock. Yeah, yeah, I have coils, my fork is a coil, but this bike is damp enough with air.

Extras: I’m a linkage fork fan, I got a Shout and a Message. The best thing about a linkage fork is the way it handle square hits and the way it maintains traction; tracking ain’t bad neither. 

The Druid suspension is the rear end equivalent of a linkage fork, but without the negatives of a linkage fork; no issues with shock absorption and no harsh ride.

My dream bike would be a Druid with a Motion Ride E18+ 29” 160mm fork.

👍👍


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

I've been really enjoying the Druid for the last few months. I've even beating some of my summer PRs on descents, previously set on an SC Nomad (and this thing climbs a lot better)... My only concern is that I've been feeling a little bit twitchy at high speed, so I just installed a Works components 1.5 degree angleset. I've increased the travel on the fork a bit to offset the steepened seat tube and dropped BB. I've got a big ride tomorrow if the weather doesn't go sideways, and I'd seen some questions about anglesets, so I'll post some initial impressions when I get back.

Parking lot test has a big smile on my face tho, even if manuals feel maybe a tiny bit harder.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Bailey100 said:


> Honestly no, but for me the 20mm rise works better. The oneup bar is a suoer nice bar as well. I just wanted to adjust my reach and ended up with the weareone bar stem combo.


I just dig that slick stem but just don't want to give up any compliance.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Suns_PSD said:


> I just dig that slick stem but just don't want to give up any compliance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


77 Designz do the stem for WAO, just need to see if you can fit the One Up bar without scratching it!









One Piece Stem | Black | 45 mm | 1000342


A super-light Enduro Stem with a 35mm clamp that you can rely on. The smart one-piece construction allows for low weight while being sturdy and stiff…




77-store.com


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

The OneUp fits up to 20mm rise ccording to Giaccomo (sp?, owner of 77 Designz).
I currently run a 35 but could live with 28.

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Nurse Ben said:


> First ride: Ten miles, maybe 2k climbing, mixed volcanics, sand, tech and flow, a few jumps, some natural features, nice and mixed.
> 
> Tech Climbing: The tech section is like trials light, pretty tough to ride without a few dabs or repeats, the first move outta the parking lot is a tight S turn climb on irregular lava flow. I had two repeat this move once, but normally I get that move.
> 
> ...


Great review. Aligns with most of my experiences.

There is an additional place to mount water bottle under the top tube, unless you're considering that location unusable.

Interesting thoughts on coil. I do consider coil more about spring action/sensitivity than simply damping compared to an air shock. That said many people love the DPX2 just fine on this bike.

IMHO, coil stabilizes the rear even more for some nice high speed runs on the chunky trails I ride compared to the DPX2. I felt a big difference when I swapped, but not saying everyone really needs that.

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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

I didn't notice that I lost much if any "pop" going to the ext coil shock. Took a bit to get it dialed but it's pretty much better all around imo.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Question about the quality of the frame. I guess I’m just wondering with this being the first version of it is it kind of rough around the edges at all compared to let’s say a pivot or Santa Cruz?


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> I didn't notice that I lost much if any "pop" going to the ext coil shock. Took a bit to get it dialed but it's pretty much better all around imo.


Plus it just looks cooler!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Bailey100 said:


> I added a few clicks of HSC to mine and it made a huge difference. If yours is blowing through the travel on drops etc, it might be worth trying.


What settings are you running? Im willing to try the 350 again, but I also havent noticed any negatives with the 375.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

phazedalx said:


> What settings are you running? Im willing to try the 350 again, but I also havent noticed any negatives with the 375.


I'm at work for a few days but I'll give you a click count from closed when I get home. I ended up bracketing a section of trail and got it really dialed. I'm 200 lbs on the 425 spring.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Energ8t said:


> There is an additional place to mount water bottle under the top tube


none of the underhanging bosses are intended for that use.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

tdc_worm said:


> none of the underhanging bosses are intended for that use.
> 
> View attachment 1919710


Yeah, I don't use mine at all... so wasn't sure. I wonder if it is not recommended due to placement or strenght issues. I know wolftooth can mount off those bosses but position bottles up higher. It's kind of a jigsaw I'm not messing with. Fidlock with strap works too. Two bottles isn't nearly enough for me in summer anyways. Need 3 liters.

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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

jay_paradox said:


> Question about the quality of the frame. I guess I'm just wondering with this being the first version of it is it kind of rough around the edges at all compared to let's say a pivot or Santa Cruz?


Quite the opposite IMO. The build quality of the frame and fittings for cables etc is really high! It's better than some other brands carbon that's for certain. On par with what you would expect from the 'boutique' brands.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

More riding impressions plus feedback from a couple mates:

Another big tech ride, ~ eight miles with 1500k climbing, rocky, sandy, some fast flow.

My buddies felt like the rearward path was really noticeable, one thought it felt “wierd”, but neither disliked the Druid. One is on a Smash, the other rides an Endorphin LT.

So my initial impressions haven’t really changed, the bike handles very well on rough terrain, climbing feels good, I have no sense that efficiency is lessened or that friction is increased.

I did feel like my traction was lessened when climbing really steep loose soils; I slipped where I usually don’t, but we were all slipping. 

There’s a tech move that I’ve never gotten, at best I’ve cleaned it to the midpoint after dozens of tries on multiple bikes, but today I got the whole thing except for the very last move which requires a wheelie up and over a big rock. I cleaned the rock wheelie. but when I dropped my front end I was off line and couldn’t stay on the trail, but it was close! If I would have done some hopping I think I could have gotten it.

I’m playing with rebound, slowed the shock down a couple clicks and added some LSC, I might bump pressure to see how thaf affects poppiness. Trying to fine the fine line between plush and poppy.

The frame quality and fastener choices are excellent, all stainless, so lesser risk of corrosion and rust. The wedge styled blocks to manage internal line rattling is well designed.

The frame itself is robust without being portly, rides damp versus pingy like some frames, I have no complaints about the bike flexing under hard riding; I’m over 200# with gear and I like air time.

The front end is pretty tall (stack) which I love. I’m still running a riser bar and 20mm spacers under the stem, and it feels great.

Overall I like the geometry, STA is steep enough without being overly steep; not crowded. The HTA with a 160mm fork is ~65 deg which is just right fit s trail bike. 

The Sz large Druid wheelbase is shorter than my Shred Sz 3, but of course the Druid gets longer as it progress through the suspension. At no point have I felt the Druid was overly long and I haven’t noticed the rear end elongating while riding

AI like the Druid, still adjusting to how it rides and playing with shock settings to see what changes feel like. The big test will be Hurricane fest in three weeks 👍


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Druid felt great on flying monkey over new years 👍


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Arright, just got back from a 20k ride with about 600m of climbing, and a cross section of everything between blue traverse trails and double black gnar (including some dorp to falt). I was really excited to get a feel for how the 1.5 degree headset worked out, and it exceeded my expectations. Some notes:

I was already on the fence about the reach on a Large vs XL, and with the angleset in place, you lose about 10mm of reach, as well as steepening the seat tube a bit. I compensated by extending the fork, but if you're on the fence too, consider upsizing if you're going to add an angleset.
1.5 degrees isn't really a lot, but it made a very noticeable difference. The twitchiness is gone (or at least, I can't get up to a fast enough speed on these trails to feel it). It wasn't wandering any more than normal on climbs, but I didn't have any SUPER steep technical climbs on this loop.
The works components headset is an easy install. People talk about how hard the alignment is, but I put a laser level on the top tube and drew a bead on it like it was a rifle sight, and it was a piece of cake.
I was quite pleased when a 5-footer to flat didn't tear the head-tube off, especially since I am up to 200lbs due to winter comfort eating. I guess the additional angle didn't add _that_ much leverage.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> Question about the quality of the frame. I guess I'm just wondering with this being the first version of it is it kind of rough around the edges at all compared to let's say a pivot or Santa Cruz?


I won't lie, the quality is not quite up to the standard of Santa Cruz (my previous bike was a nomad), or maybe a Trek (my last road bike was an OCLV), but it's not far off. My only complaints are that the internal routing is a bit ghetto compared to an SC, which has internal guide tubes so you don't have to go on a fishing expedition. That, and the mounting hardware on the cable ports, upper guide, and bottle bosses is not the best. One of my upper chain-guide mounting holes is slightly off at an angle, so I had to shim it. The pivots, linkage, and dropouts are totally fine though. Well engineered and sturdy.

But. the frame design, clearances, attention to detail are otherwise top notch. No obvious flaws inside the frame either; no bubbles or delam on the inner surface layer.

TL;DR: Don't worry about frame quality compared to other brands. It's fine.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

armyofevilrobots said:


> 1.5 degrees isn't really a lot, but it made a very noticeable difference. The twitchiness is gone (or at least, I can't get up to a fast enough speed on these trails to feel it). It wasn't wandering any more than normal on climbs, but I didn't have any SUPER steep technical climbs on this loop.


What fork offset are you running? Or I guess more importantly was the offset the same on both forks you've used?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I won't lie, the quality is not quite up to the standard of Santa Cruz (my previous bike was a nomad), or maybe a Trek (my last road bike was an OCLV), but it's not far off. My only complaints are that the internal routing is a bit ghetto compared to an SC, which has internal guide tubes so you don't have to go on a fishing expedition. That, and the mounting hardware on the cable ports, upper guide, and bottle bosses is not the best. One of my upper chain-guide mounting holes is slightly off at an angle, so I had to shim it. The pivots, linkage, and dropouts are totally fine though. Well engineered and sturdy.
> 
> But. the frame design, clearances, attention to detail are otherwise top notch. No obvious flaws inside the frame either; no bubbles or delam on the inner surface layer.
> 
> TL;DR: Don't worry about frame quality compared to other brands. It's fine.


The top tube cable routing is the way that it is so that people who prefer to run their brakes the wrong way can do so. It's not ideal, but it really isn't as bad as you make it sound to fish through there.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

CHWK said:


> The top tube cable routing is the way that it is so that people who prefer to run their brakes the wrong way can do so. It's not ideal, but it really isn't as bad as you make it sound to fish through there.


I didn't actually claim to hate it that much. I like the _look_ of internal routing, but it's a bit tricky to get right, and the druid sounded like the "two skeletons having sex in a biscuit tin" until I did the zip-tie trick to quiet it down. For those who don't know about it, put some zip-ties (about 6-8" long IIRC in my case) on each of the top-tube routed cables, and use a slitted 1/4" tube as a tool to push them down the cable into the frame at 4-6" intervals. The cables act as springs to hold the brake/cable lines in place and prevent the rattling.

I used 3/4" insulation noodle in the downtube to quiet down the dropper cable.

Anyhow, I think the pain of internal routing is generally overstated, but it's enough of a PITA to mention. The druid was only really bothersome at the rear of the top-tube. The ride-wrap was way more time and effort, in comparison.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

ALS650L said:


> What fork offset are you running? Or I guess more importantly was the offset the same on both forks you've used?


It's not apples to apples, since my last bike was a 27.5, but the Druid is running a 44mm offset HELM II air. The previous bike had a 44mm offset Fox 36 (par for the course for 27.5 forks at the time, I think).
I'll also note that the Fox would have been creaking by now, which happened 3x before they stopped warrantying it.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

armyofevilrobots said:


> It's not apples to apples, since my last bike was a 27.5, but the Druid is running a 44mm offset HELM II air. The previous bike had a 44mm offset Fox 36 (par for the course for 27.5 forks at the time, I think).
> I'll also note that the Fox would have been creaking by now, which happened 3x before they stopped warrantying it.


I misunderstood, I thought you changed to the 36 on your Druid, from another fork, when you installed the angle headset.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I won't lie, the quality is not quite up to the standard of Santa Cruz (my previous bike was a nomad), or maybe a Trek (my last road bike was an OCLV), but it's not far off. My only complaints are that the internal routing is a bit ghetto compared to an SC, which has internal guide tubes so you don't have to go on a fishing expedition. That, and the mounting hardware on the cable ports, upper guide, and bottle bosses is not the best. One of my upper chain-guide mounting holes is slightly off at an angle, so I had to shim it. The pivots, linkage, and dropouts are totally fine though. Well engineered and sturdy.
> 
> But. the frame design, clearances, attention to detail are otherwise top notch. No obvious flaws inside the frame either; no bubbles or delam on the inner surface layer.
> 
> TL;DR: Don't worry about frame quality compared to other brands. It's fine.


Yeah I wish there were cable grommets on the entry into the rear triangle. That is rubbing rather quick.


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## Enn Zed (Apr 24, 2010)

phazedalx said:


> Yeah I wish there were cable grommets on the entry into the rear triangle. That is rubbing rather quick.


I have wondered about those after seeing some heavy wear on other druids. Are there aftermarket grommets that can be inserted?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

CHWK said:


> The top tube cable routing is the way that it is so that people who prefer to run their brakes the wrong way can do so. It's not ideal, but it really isn't as bad as you make it sound to fish through there.


It's a level two job, not for a newby but if you done one before then it's okay.

I think a primer would be helpful, esp, when searching for the routing on the dropper line which requires some thinking and a flashlight 

When compared to other bikes, the Druid build is middle of the pack, sure they could have used internal tubes to guide the lines (more $$), and it absolutely could have been done with external routing (fashion over function), but in the end it's a one and done preposition.

The only visible "lower quality" issues I noticed are where the paint meets the unfinished spots such as at the headtube; those pics of the finish coming off at the pivots is likely related. I think the finish at those spots could be improved with better QC, but the overall fit and finish is excellent.

The Druid rides really well,. not harsh at all, really nice riding bike. If I'd been in the know a couple years ago, I might have built one, but I only just saw one for the first time last summer abover Mr Toads ... which is what got me thinking.

The chain routing is still kinda weird to see, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.

Now what I want is a gear box driven high pivot


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Anyone know when more frames or full builds will be available in the US?


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## CrashVR (Mar 8, 2021)

habaden said:


> Anyone know when more frames or full builds will be available in the US?


The website says July.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

CrashVR said:


> The website says July.


Might have to go for a frame up build then


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## eye3y3 (Feb 2, 2017)

New bike day in Western Australia ! After many years with the Yeti tribe it was time for a change. Can't wait for the first ride !


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

habaden said:


> Anyone know when more frames or full builds will be available in the US?


There were frames available, I got mine from Fanatic bikes, though it looks like they have sold out, only one purple XL remaining, April for new frames.

I'm glad I didn't hesitate, there were three Brownstone Sz Large just last week.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Shameless plug of my new Dreadnought Build ->


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

CHWK said:


> Shameless plug of my new Dreadnought Build ->


Very nice! Did you re-anodise the seat collar to match? Keen to hear a ride report vs the Druid.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Shameless plug of my new Dreadnought Build ->


Liked and subscribed!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

shiny said:


> Very nice! Did you re-anodise the seat collar to match? Keen to hear a ride report vs the Druid.


I actually just wrapped a piece of chrome red vinyl around the outside of the collar haha It matches the red anodized parts very well.

Just getting ready to head out for the first ride on it!


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Again, why doesn't Forbidden have it's own thread in the manufacturers forums?

Two major bikes, hundreds of posts, this is getting silly.

I demand satisfaction 

It would make it easier to separate things out, like the Druid and Dreadnought overlap, questions about builds, etc...


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Nurse Ben said:


> Again, why doesn't Forbidden have it's own thread in the manufacturers forums?
> 
> Two major bikes, hundreds of posts, this is getting silly.
> 
> ...


No idea. But until that time, I'm gonna keep on keeping on about my Double D's.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> I actually just wrapped a piece of chrome red vinyl around the outside of the collar haha It matches the red anodized parts very well.
> 
> Just getting ready to head out for the first ride on it!


Enjoy. Send it!

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## inonjoey (Jul 19, 2011)

Nurse Ben said:


> Again, why doesn't Forbidden have it's own thread in the manufacturers forums?
> 
> Two major bikes, hundreds of posts, this is getting silly.
> 
> ...


Ben, stop complaining and get some of those bubbles out of your Ridewrap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

I took a short 5.5km ride on the HMS Spicy Boi today which included 292m of climbing on some varying terrain (mix of fire road, short punchy tech, normal single track). I would have gone longer but my derailleur went all crazy and I left my tools at home like an idiot. Always tomorrow I guess. These are just some initial observations.

Climbing: Derailleur issues aside, this bike doesn't come close to climbing like a Druid. It feels like a big, cozy, heavy ass enduro bike. That said, I was only 3.5 minutes slower with a janky derailleur than I was up the same climb with my Druid, so this may change. It still weighs 37 pounds tho so I expect it to be slower anyways.

Descending: This bike takes way more effort to move around in corners. Part of this is probably me never having ridden a full 29er, and it feels much longer and slacker as it should. It is FAST in a straight line over rough stuff. Where I thought the Druid was quick, this turns it up to 11 and is soooo much more forgiving. I can't wait to spend more time on it and really dial in my cornering.

I'll leave you with a photo of my Double D's.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> No idea. But until that time, I'm gonna keep on keeping on about my Double D's.


I like a man with the Double D's. 

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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Seriously, effing ride wrapping, what a pain, never again!

We riding this weekend?

Get them short cranks do we can all be like wee lil' kids ?



inonjoey said:


> Ben, stop complaining and get some of those bubbles out of your Ridewrap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eye3y3 (Feb 2, 2017)

CHWK said:


> I took a short 5.5km ride on the HMS Spicy Boi today which included 292m of climbing on some varying terrain (mix of fire road, short punchy tech, normal single track). I would have gone longer but my derailleur went all crazy and I left my tools at home like an idiot. Always tomorrow I guess. These are just some initial observations.
> 
> Climbing: Derailleur issues aside, this bike doesn't come close to climbing like a Druid. It feels like a big, cozy, heavy ass enduro bike. That said, I was only 3.5 minutes slower with a janky derailleur than I was up the same climb with my Druid, so this may change. It still weighs 37 pounds tho so I expect it to be slower anyways.
> 
> ...


Awesome observations mate ! Nice to hear from someone who has ridden both. I must say, I find the Druid much nicer to look at


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

So you have a Dreadnought and a Druid?

Nice!

I'd consider a bigger bike, but my big bike days are coming to a close.

These days I prefer small hits, natural features, going fast up and down, so Druid is just right 



CHWK said:


> I took a short 5.5km ride on the HMS Spicy Boi today which included 292m of climbing on some varying terrain (mix of fire road, short punchy tech, normal single track). I would have gone longer but my derailleur went all crazy and I left my tools at home like an idiot. Always tomorrow I guess. These are just some initial observations.
> 
> Climbing: Derailleur issues aside, this bike doesn't come close to climbing like a Druid. It feels like a big, cozy, heavy ass enduro bike. That said, I was only 3.5 minutes slower with a janky derailleur than I was up the same climb with my Druid, so this may change. It still weighs 37 pounds tho so I expect it to be slower anyways.
> 
> ...


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Thought about a dreadnaught but park maintenance made me get a commencal mullet supreme instead lol


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Thought about a dreadnaught but park maintenance made me get a commencal mullet supreme instead lol


I thought about that route as well, but we have so many other mountains around here i'd like to pedal on that require a lot more bike for the downhills.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

CHWK said:


> I thought about that route as well, but we have so many other mountains around here i'd like to pedal on that require a lot more bike for the downhills.


The one benefit of living in southern ontario is we pretty much have no trails that require more then a trail bike. the druid fits in there so much without being to overbiked and can still hold its own when i take it to our "mountains". So luckily i dont have to worry about having a quiver of bikes. I think i might get a gravel bike for commuting but i also have road tires for my druid so ill see how that does first. Might be quite the fun urban bike with road 27.5s on it haha


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

Spent a few hours yesterday changing the graphics, thanks CHWK, and installing the full ridewrap kit. 
Pretty happy with the result.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Bailey100 said:


> View attachment 1920526
> 
> 
> Spent a few hours yesterday changing the graphics, thanks CHWK, and installing the full ridewrap kit.
> Pretty happy with the result.


Have a photo of new graphics? Bike looks great.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

shiny said:


> Have a photo of new graphics? Bike looks great.


Went for just a Glassy Black over the factory Teal. Hard to see on photos.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Bailey100 said:


> Went for just a Glassy Black over the factory Teal. Hard to see on photos.
> View attachment 1921011


Nice and stealthy. Is it a gloss wrap on blue steel?


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

shiny said:


> Nice and stealthy. Is it a gloss wrap on blue steel?


It is. Had a hard time deciding between the gloss and matte but in the end glad I went with gloss.
The ridewrap kit wasn't too bad to do, the worst pieces were the headtube and the long top piece on the top tube that is supposed to wrap up onto the front of the seat tube. I actually ended up cutting that one and doing the seat tube piece on its own.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Bailey100 said:


> It is. Had a hard time deciding between the gloss and matte but in the end glad I went with gloss.
> The ridewrap kit wasn't too bad to do, the worst pieces were the headtube and the long top piece on the top tube that is supposed to wrap up onto the front of the seat tube. I actually ended up cutting that one and doing the seat tube piece on its own.


Thanks. Still saving for a Druid and change my mind daily between Brownstone and Blue Steel!

I like how Ride Wrap wraps around the head tube where as Invisiframe seems to meet in the middle leaving a small gap.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

shiny said:


> Thanks. Still saving for a Druid and change my mind daily between Brownstone and Blue Steel!
> 
> I like how Ride Wrap wraps around the head tube where as Invisiframe seems to meet in the middle leaving a small gap.


Brownstone! but I'm a bit biased haha


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## samsq (Nov 29, 2009)

Hey fellas, I just got my druid all built up and I noticed that the chainstay cable guide has this chip/crack thing going on. Should I be worried about it? Do any of your druids look similar?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

samsq said:


> Hey fellas, I just got my druid all built up and I noticed that the chainstay cable guide has this chip/crack thing going on. Should I be worried about it? Do any of your druids look similar?
> 
> View attachment 1922181


Mine has a similar defect, although not as pronounced. Hasn't broken yet!


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Id sent pics to forbidden. I bet they will replace your rear triangle


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

How the hell does that get shipped like that. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Anyone 71-72” tall riding a medium Druid?

I have a large Druid and it feels too long, already running a 35mm stem with the seat set forward, not really suiting my riding style; tight tech.

Sadly, all the frames are sold out so I’m looking for a trade or I’ll sell the frame/shock.

Brownstone, Sz large, frame wrapped, 50-75 miles ridden, no damage.

If you have feedback or whatever, send me a PM, I’m not active on the forum any more.

thanks


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> Anyone 71-72" tall riding a medium Druid?
> 
> I have a large Druid and it feels too long, already running a 35mm stem with the seat set forward, not really suiting my riding style; tight tech.
> 
> ...


By long do you mean reach/wheelbase/both?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

cheezwhip said:


> By long do you mean reach/wheelbase/both?


All of the above, and when that rear end spreads out it's even longer. It's not a tech bike by any means, might be fine for straighter tracks and flow, but it's not all that agile. Makes sense now that I ride one.

I'm breaking it down today, would consider trading for a medium frame if anyone is so inclined, otherwise I'll just sell it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Nurse Ben said:


> Anyone 71-72" tall riding a medium Druid?
> 
> I have a large Druid and it feels too long, already running a 35mm stem with the seat set forward, not really suiting my riding style; tight tech.
> 
> ...


Wow. That was quick.


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## cheezwhip (Aug 6, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> All of the above, and when that rear end spreads out it's even longer. It's not a tech bike by any means, might be fine for straighter tracks and flow, but it's not all that agile. Makes sense now that I ride one.
> 
> I'm breaking it down today, would consider trading for a medium frame if anyone is so inclined, otherwise I'll just sell it.


I'm about your height and on the Large. I have been experimenting with various stem lengths and bar widths - currently running 40mm stem and 780mm bars.

This is probably the upper limit for me... on a Dreadnought, I'd go for Medium for sure.

And yes, the rear-center is longer on this bike - here in the PNW, this has not been an issue with our techy trails.

I'm guessing by technical trails you're referring to tight New England type trails?


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

I've been riding the north shore of Vancouver with my large and haven't found it to be an issue at all.
I'm 5 11 with 40mm stem.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

5’10” on a large. 50mm stem, 800mm bar.

This bike has navigated some pretty tight switch backs, including the Hyper Ventolation climb in Fernie (I didn’t make all of them but that wasn’t the bike’s fault). The thing still requires some effort to get the front end off the ground though, compared to my other bikes.

I rode a medium in a parking lot. Happy to be on my large.

I have never found my Druid to lack manoeuvrability in the tight stuff.


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

I’m exactly 6’ tall here on a size L and feel the Druid fits damn near perfect for me. It felt a little cramped at first to be honest, and that is with a 50mm stem. I haven’t experienced any sort of issues on technical climbs. It did take a small adjustment for me to time certain moves, but now that I’ve gotten used to it, it climbs as well or better than anything I’ve ridden. That includes yeti sb130, yeti sb150, evil offering, revel rascal, ripmo and a few others. I wouldn’t give up on the frame that quickly. I think if you give yourself some time to adjust, you will be happy that you did.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Frameset has been SOLD


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

I'm 5' 11" and ride a large Druid with 780mm bars, 40mm stem, and 190mm post. My Dreadnought is also a large with 780mm bars, 35mm stem, and 175mm post.

I wouldn't go smaller on either. The druid especially.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

CHWK said:


> I'm 5' 11" and ride a large Druid with 780mm bars, 40mm stem, and 190mm post. My Dreadnought is also a large with 780mm bars, 35mm stem, and 175mm post.
> 
> I wouldn't go smaller on either. The druid especially.


This^ I am 6'1" and the Large is JUST BARELY big enough. I was seriously considering trading it in for an XL, until I stuck a 60mm stem on. Between the long stem and the extra wheelbase I got from an Angleset, it fits about perfect now.

I'd still size up if I bought it again though. The druid is sized a little smaller than other brands, probably to bring it more in line with it's trail focus.


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

Anyone on the XL find the rear end to be a little long? 450mm before sagging is pretty much the outside of the bell curve compared to most bikes. At 6'2" I'm now almost always a tweener at the top of the L sizing or very bottom of XL sizing for most brands


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## Skatefarmer (Oct 1, 2018)

6 ft 2, Was all set to buy a Dreadnought Frame in Large here in the UK, and now the shops tell me maybe the Druid is a better option? Has anyone ridden both and can offer some opinion?

For UK Enduro riding mostly - fast, steep, tech with the odd uplift. Sometimes trail centre stuff too. Anyone riding the dreadnought as their one only bike? Tempted to go for an XL Druid instead but dont like being underbiked.

Cheers


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

I have not ridden the dreadnought but haven't found the limit on the druid yet.
There is a user here that had both bikes , im sure he'll have a better take on it.
Either way , welcome to the family , you'll like it here.


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## Skatefarmer (Oct 1, 2018)

Bailey100 said:


> I have not ridden the dreadnought but haven't found the limit on the druid yet.
> There is a user here that had both bikes , im sure he'll have a better take on it.
> Either way , welcome to the family , you'll like it here.


Thanks man! I would be really interested to hear his opinion. The Druid seems small, even the XL is borderline too small for my height but all I hear are good things, would love to hear how the Dreadnought climbs in comparison, if it climbs just as good then I may have to go Dready!


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Skatefarmer said:


> 6 ft 2, Was all set to buy a Dreadnought Frame in Large here in the UK, and now the shops tell me maybe the Druid is a better option? Has anyone ridden both and can offer some opinion?
> 
> For UK Enduro riding mostly - fast, steep, tech with the odd uplift. Sometimes trail centre stuff too. Anyone riding the dreadnought as their one only bike? Tempted to go for an XL Druid instead but dont like being underbiked.
> 
> Cheers


heelllllloooo.....

I've got both, and have had a decent amount of seat time on my Dreadnought so far. All in all, it climbs way better than I ever figured it would. I'm not too far off my climb times on the Druid, maybe 2-3 minutes, but than again it does weigh 4 pounds more than my druid and is obviously a lot longer.

If you're riding steep tech and doing uplifts, get the Dreadnought. It's a burly bike for sure, but I think you'd be shocked at how capable it is all around.

The Druid is capable as hell, as I am sure you've probably seen/heard. I find my Druid to be the fun, everyday nimble play bike, but when you want to get really rowdy and fast the Dreadnought is the bike to take. My first day on the Dreadnought (having never ridden a bike this long and slack before) I smashed a PR on a black trail here by 17 seconds. It is a fast, fast bike.

I'm currently in this middle of the work day so can't get more detailed than that. I've been wanting to post a longer term review between the two bikes here so hopefully soon.


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## Skatefarmer (Oct 1, 2018)

CHWK said:


> heelllllloooo.....
> 
> I've got both, and have had a decent amount of seat time on my Dreadnought so far. All in all, it climbs way better than I ever figured it would. I'm not too far off my climb times on the Druid, maybe 2-3 minutes, but than again it does weigh 4 pounds more than my druid and is obviously a lot longer.
> 
> ...


Thats really helpful, thank you! Kind of makes me edge towards Dread..

Can I ask what height and size you went for? I now have a Large or XL to pick from, at 6 Ft 2 I am thinking Large and mullet the bike to keep it a bit more playful.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Skatefarmer said:


> Thats really helpful, thank you! Kind of makes me edge towards Dread..
> 
> Can I ask what height and size you went for? I now have a Large or XL to pick from, at 6 Ft 2 I am thinking Large and mullet the bike to keep it a bit more playful.


I'm 5' 11" and doing the full 29er for now on the Dreadnought. It is a really long bike for size large. Might be a good bet for you in that size if you want it to be a tad bit more playful.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Cascade link is available now, 142mm travel and more progressive. Forbidden Druid Link


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Skatefarmer said:


> Thats really helpful, thank you! Kind of makes me edge towards Dread..
> 
> Can I ask what height and size you went for? I now have a Large or XL to pick from, at 6 Ft 2 I am thinking Large and mullet the bike to keep it a bit more playful.


I'm 6' and riding a large Druid. I'd like to try an XL as the bike is quite compact. In fact I know I can move to an XL as my seatpost would still not be slammed even with a 490mm ST. Only just though by 10mm maybe.

I could go for that bigger bike feel and run a 160mm fork (to slacken the HTA), 40mm stem and have the saddle forward biased on the rails (to restore the STA) and have the benefit of more seated reach. I'm running a 150mm fork and 50mm stem and it sometimes feels compact compared to previous bikes. I guess that compact nature of the bike is my only niggle really. Yet I fear moving to an XL in case I'll lose some of the attributes that I love about my current bike that make the Druid so lively, poppy and direct. It is a trail bike after all.

I'm really in a good place with my Druid setup at the moment. It just feels blistering quick everywhere. I know it's cliched when people state 'it feels more than x mm suspension' but it does. It feels very planted and surefooted when firing through chunky terrain which I feel is down to the rear centre growth. Plus it corners like no other bike I've been on. It's a very confidence inspiring bike. Which probably makes up for the lack of travel and I think it can hold it's own against bikes with more conventional suspension designs and more travel.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Cascade link is available now, 142mm travel and more progressive. Forbidden Druid Link


That is a significant bump in leverage rate from initial through mid travel.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

alan1 said:


> Cascade link is available now, 142mm travel and more progressive. Forbidden Druid Link


I ordered one. Very curious to see how it ups the game on the rougher, steeper trails I ride. 142 is spot on for what I'm wanting, especially if I were to bump up the fork to 160.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> I ordered one. Very curious to see how it ups the game on the rougher, steeper trails I ride. 142 is spot on for what I'm wanting, especially if I were to bump up the fork to 160.


Is this the same link that can also be replaced to run mullet setup?

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> Is this the same link that can also be replaced to run mullet setup?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Ziggy Link is purely intended for swapping 29 to 27.5 on the rear. Different purpose.

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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> The Ziggy Link is purely intended for swapping 29 to 27.5 on the rear. Different purpose.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Right but what I'm saying is it's the same part...In the sense that you can't run both of Ziggy link and this other one because they're going in the same spot.

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> Right but what I'm saying is it's the same part...In the sense that you can't run both of Ziggy link and this other one because they're going in the same spot.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Edit: I was wrong. They're different links. Ignore the original comment I made below in quotes. Apologies.

Original: "Yes, you're correct. It's the same part."

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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

It is actually not the same part. The Cascade link is the part of the linkage that your shock attaches to. In theory, you should still be able to run the Ziggy link, but that hasn’t been confirmed yet.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

alan1 said:


> Cascade link is available now, 142mm travel and more progressive. Forbidden Druid Link


24 examples of how the OEMs all got it wrong and the problem was fixed by adding more travel that is used less efficiently by stiffening up the endstroke.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

QuickSilverZ said:


> It is actually not the same part. The Cascade link is the part of the linkage that your shock attaches to. In theory, you should still be able to run the Ziggy link, but that hasn't been confirmed yet.


My bad, I thought it was the same link. Bonus they're different.

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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

I’d love to hear a ride report on added travel link and mullet set up


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

jay_paradox said:


> I'd love to hear a ride report on added travel link and mullet set up
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed, i'll wait for the reviews as I feel the bikes pretty balanced for what it's set out to do.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> I'd love to hear a ride report on added travel link and mullet set up
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I messaged them to see if it was compatible with the mullet and coil setup. Then I thought about it more and Im thinking it makes no sense for me. The druid is a fine boi as it is.

If I need more travel I hop on the battleship.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

tdc_worm said:


> 24 examples of how the OEMs all got it wrong and the problem was fixed by adding more travel that is used less efficiently by stiffening up the endstroke.


It's similar to any other 'performance upgrade' for your bike or car or whatever. Bike kinematics are developed for a wide range of users (weight and skill wise) so upgrades can tailor it to better suit you. Look how how different similar riders setups can be. People are putting on 160mm forks, angleset headsets, coil shocks, custom tuned shocks, etc - changing the 'OEM' setup.

I have yet to read a bad review on Cascade links so people must know what they're getting into.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Kootenay rider said:


> It's similar to any other 'performance upgrade' for your bike or car or whatever. Bike kinematics are developed for a wide range of users (weight and skill wise) so upgrades can tailor it to better suit you. Look how how different similar riders setups can be. People are putting on 160mm forks, angleset headsets, coil shocks, custom tuned shocks, etc - changing the 'OEM' setup.
> 
> I have yet to read a bad review on Cascade links so people must know what they're getting into.


not my point, at all. cascade has 100% nailed the soft spot/trigger word that suckers all of us off of our wallets: More [travel] and Increased [leverage]. more HAS to be better. Increased HAS to better. I can't believe the frame manufacturer wantonly selected less travel and less leverage when the could have had more and increased!

with all of the OEM r&d and test mules time and money spent, cascade was able to fix the problem in mere seconds on a CAD program and CNC machine. 20 examples of it in the 20 links they offer, with 3 more on the way.

outside of converting a falling rate linkage to a rising rate linkage so it can accept a coil shock, my guess is that change is next to negligible, like many of expensive "upgrades" i have on my own sleds (i am not immune). the phrase "a solution looking for a problem" comes to mind when Cascade has "fixed" so many OEM flaws. YMMV


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

tdc_worm said:


> not my point, at all. cascade has 100% nailed the soft spot/trigger word that suckers all of us off of our wallets: More [travel] and Increased [leverage]. more HAS to be better. Increased HAS to better. I can't believe the frame manufacturer wantonly selected less travel and less leverage when the could have had more and increased!
> 
> with all of the OEM r&d and test mules time and money spent, cascade was able to fix the problem in mere seconds on a CAD program and CNC machine. 20 examples of it in the 20 links they offer, with 3 more on the way.
> 
> outside of converting a falling rate linkage to a rising rate linkage so it can accept a coil shock, my guess is that change is next to negligible, like many of expensive "upgrades" i have on my own sleds (i am not immune). the phrase "a solution looking for a problem" comes to mind when Cascade has "fixed" so many OEM flaws. YMMV


I get what you're saying but isn't everything we buy marketed as being awesome? Looking at Cascade's write up it doesn't say that it fixes flaws, just adds more and makes it more fun - very subjective of course. However, look at any recent product release and it'll tell you how this product is better, more fun, etc. The Dreadnaught will 'obliterate all that comes before it' and the Fox X2 'changes everything' and on and on it goes. Advertising! Who wouldn't want a shock that changes everything!

In the end it's a product trying to get your money with advertising that's mostly subjective - it'll resonate with some and others will say 'snake oil'!


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I'd rather get a vorsprung secus for cascade link money.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Regarding advertising... Just because something is marketed as being *__*, doesn't mean it doesn't actually live up to the hype generally speaking for most. For example, I have a Secus and it works amazingly. Most people think it makes a big difference and it adds a larger air volume to your fork so it's not hard to understand how that works. It's not just some random can with nothing inside.

Additionally regarding the marketing hype angle, Cascade Components never claims it's "fixing" anything. This is an upgrade which takes a bike designed to appeal to a particular "mass" audience and focuses that even further to aggressive/park riders riders looking for better bottom out performance, etc. Forbidden didn't make a "mistake" by NOT creating the link that CC made. They're apples and oranges. As far as it being snake oil, I personally put a bit of a difference between parts using engineering/testing versus something like a crystal necklace which reduces stress and brings good luck. Improvements via engineering are measurable and testable. I know because that's what I do everyday.

Regarding CC being reputable and actually making functional, effective components, there are plenty of reviews out there from reputable reviewers and on their Facebook which we can look at. Here's one from Loam Wolf and Vital:
Review: Cascade Components Norco Sight Link - The Loam Wolf








REVIEW: Cascade Components Linkage Upgrade for Transition Sentinel and Kona Process


Cascade Components linkages have been making waves in mountain bike paradise recently. We've been seeing the uptick in press releases from the brand based in Everett, Washington, as they've been growing their collection of suspension linkage upgrades for trail and enduro bikes. Invariably, the...




www.vitalmtb.com





I'm assuming not all will be great, but I'm also leaning toward the "negative" reviews being be more along the lines of "it works, but it wasn't for me". Doesn't mean it's bad or snake oil.

Opinions and expectations will always be subjective though.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

My opinion is that bike manufacturers design their rear suspension linkage for the masses, mostly trail riding that needs to use all of their suspension so as to maximize comfort and performance, and rightly so. 
Cascade link is an appropriate change for riders that are on one end of the bell curve and even with suspension that behaves and moves at the appropriate rate they constantly find themselves at the bottom of the bike's travel.
The increase in travel is not a selling feature, it's just a side effect. Can't get increased progression with identical travel on the same length shock, unless you increase travel. The percent increase in travel should equal the percent increase in progression if I understand all correctly. So the Druid should experience about a 9% increase in progression with the Cascade link but certainly they could effect the curve in a manner where the progression increases more (or less) than that from the sag point to 95% travel when the bump stop takes over. Which is where it matters.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Been thinking more about this cascade thing. I'd be shocked if anyone reeeeally noticed a massive difference between 130mm of travel on the Druid vs 146mm or whatever... this bike already feels like it's got 150mm in the back. I wonder if it might upset the balance of it quite a bit. The Dreadnought is 154 in the rear and the geometry of the bike suits that really well.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

CHWK said:


> Been thinking more about this cascade thing. I'd be shocked if anyone reeeeally noticed a massive difference between 130mm of travel on the Druid vs 146mm or whatever... this bike already feels like it's got 150mm in the back. I wonder if it might upset the balance of it quite a bit. The Dreadnought is 154 in the rear and the geometry of the bike suits that really well.


Yeah, I think most of the "extra" travel is def dedicated to the progression increase. They claim the link doesn't affect geometry, but I'd be curious about change in ride quality.

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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Energ8t said:


> Regarding advertising... Just because something is marketed as being *__*, doesn't mean it doesn't actually live up to the hype generally speaking for most.....


I'm doing a poor job of communicating. I am sure it does "_something_." And looking through the lens of my rose colored glasses after my wallet is $x lighter, I am more likely to feel "_something_," especially if my shock performance was poor due to set up or *lack of service* (the latter of which being the major factor everyone loves the way a new bike feels compared to their old bike in my opinion). It's not a shot a CC being irreputable. I actually applaud them for finding the market niche and owning it...capitalism at its finest. It's simply an observation that 11 OEMs (with more to come, I am sure) are covered and the lead marketing phrase for each one is: "increases progressivity x amount, making it *possible to obtain* both excellent small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance." the implication here, is that the 11 OEMs either a) cared not about small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance, or b) the 11 OEMs were not able to figure it out in spite of their deep r&d pockets.

To your point and as it applies to the Druid...I've followed all 143 pages of this thread pretty closely, and I don't recall reading a post where somebody was lamenting the small bump compliance, bottom out resistance, or rear travel of this bike...I certainly haven't on mine and I will contend that my Druid actually blurs the lines at 130mm out back when it compares to my 2020 Enduro with 170mm out back. Oh, by the way, CC offers a link for the 2020 Enduro that "provides better compliance over small bumps while also giving you increased bottom out resistance."



Suns_PSD said:


> My opinion is that bike manufacturers design their rear suspension linkage for the masses.


We can agree to disagree on a "blanket linkage" approach. I would contend that there is a "blanket damper" approach to optimizing the platform for the masses (which is also likely why most full builds are spec'd with air rather than coils). But that is a debate for a different beer and different thread, haha!

All good discussion...I'll pipe down and turn this back over to the topic at hand: the venerable Druid.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

If everyone wants to chip in and buy me a Druid I’d be happy to test the Cascade link to prove if it’s an improvement or not.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Anyone have a trick to measure coil sag on the Druid? I’d like to know where I’m at, appreciate the help.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> Anyone have a trick to measure coil sag on the Druid? I'd like to know where I'm at, appreciate the help.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Put a small zip tie on the shaft, cut the excess off, slide it forward, stand on bike You're gonna have to get a small ruler or something tho and sort of eye it from there. Then and cut it off when you're done.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Ordered the link, pretty psyched. They do recommend quite the bump in spring weight though:



https://cascadecomponents.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058977551-Recommended-Spring-Rates-for-the-Forbidden-Druid-Link-FD-1000-


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

CHWK said:


> Put a small zip tie on the shaft, cut the excess off, slide it forward, stand on bike You're gonna have to get a small ruler or something tho and sort of eye it from there. Then and cut it off when you're done.


I'll give it a shot, thank you! I ordered my link as well, and am going to have Avy make a Bomber CR suited to it, pretty pumped. If anyone is interested in an 11-6 please PM me, have one built for the Druid with a 425 spring (ridden once)

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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

Forbidden have replied to jaycramps2 on Instagram post below, 160mm fork now approved. FAQ has not been updated but good to know for those looking to running slightly more front travel:


__
http://instagr.am/p/CM5BLsLB_vR/


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

shiny said:


> Forbidden have replied to jaycramps2 on Instagram post below, 160mm fork now approved. FAQ has not been updated but good to know for those looking to running slightly more front travel:
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CM5BLsLB_vR/


FYI, the Fox 36 160 is 571mm which is noted in the FAQ since last year. Many are already running a 160 as long as it's below 571.

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## springs (May 20, 2017)

..


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Just don’t think it’s suited to my riding style. I think it’s very damped and probably set up for someone that rides quite a bit quicker than me. Additionally, with a progressive frame like the Druid, I personally don’t think I need a hydraulic bottom out system, and it pedals so well that I don’t have a use for twin circuits. Avy did my DPX2 and I like it, but still want more small bump compliance and big hit performance (Craig will tell you the internals of the DPX2 limit what he can do with it). The beginning leverage ratio of the Druid is pretty low, so I’m looking forward to trying the new link starting around 3.1 - perhaps this would make the 11-6 better for me. Regardless, I have a Yari Avy Hybrid Coil and an Avy DPX2 and really like both, so I think a Bomber from them with the Cascade link will be exactly what I’m looking for.


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

johnsogr said:


> I'll give it a shot, thank you! I ordered my link as well, and am going to have Avy make a Bomber CR suited to it, pretty pumped. If anyone is interested in an 11-6 please PM me, have one built for the Druid with a 425 spring (ridden once)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What did you think of the 11.6 in the Druid? What are you hoping to gain with the extra travel and different shock?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

tdc_worm said:


> I'm doing a poor job of communicating. I am sure it does "_something_." And looking through the lens of my rose colored glasses after my wallet is $x lighter, I am more likely to feel "_something_," especially if my shock performance was poor due to set up or *lack of service* (the latter of which being the major factor everyone loves the way a new bike feels compared to their old bike in my opinion). It's not a shot a CC being irreputable. I actually applaud them for finding the market niche and owning it...capitalism at its finest. It's simply an observation that 11 OEMs (with more to come, I am sure) are covered and the lead marketing phrase for each one is: "increases progressivity x amount, making it *possible to obtain* both excellent small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance." the implication here, is that the 11 OEMs either a) cared not about small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance, or b) the 11 OEMs were not able to figure it out in spite of their deep r&d pockets.
> 
> To your point and as it applies to the Druid...I've followed all 143 pages of this thread pretty closely, and I don't recall reading a post where somebody was lamenting the small bump compliance, bottom out resistance, or rear travel of this bike...I certainly haven't on mine and I will contend that my Druid actually blurs the lines at 130mm out back when it compares to my 2020 Enduro with 170mm out back. Oh, by the way, CC offers a link for the 2020 Enduro that "provides better compliance over small bumps while also giving you increased bottom out resistance."
> 
> ...


I was inferring that the OEM setups aren't "wrong". They can't tune to fit every rider's desire. The link is simply providing a different tune, not necessarily a better one for all situations and riders. It's clearly geared toward aggressive riders who ride park and/or bottom out more in those situations. Personally I would keep and use both links depending on the trails I'm riding. We have yet to see real world reviews, so we can reserve further commentary till they come in. It also seems clear to me that you happen to be someone who doesn't find what they are selling necessary or worth the price. Fair enough, totally understandable. Keep in mind there are plenty who will find that what the link offers as worthwhile.

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## Skatefarmer (Oct 1, 2018)

Druid vs Stumpjumper Evo Mullet? Currently considering these two bikes, anyone been on the new 2021 Evo ? It looks a pretty great one-bike option right now!


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Energ8t said:


> They can't tune to fit every rider's desire.


Letting myself get pulled back in here, but I am going to assume that no one on the planet wants less small bump compliance and less bottom out resistance. we would be foolish to think, for a second, that anyone would want small bumps to be rougher and that anyone gets a [figurative] kick out of a harsh bottom out. With that in mind, copied and pasted and using CCs own promises:

Meta 29: "increased the progression of the bike from 17% to 23% to keep the bike planted to the ground over small bumps while also helping prevent harsh bottom outs"

Evil Insurgent: "increased the progression of the bike from 17% to 23% to keep the bike planted to the ground over small bumps while also helping prevent harsh bottom outs."

Evil Offering: "this makes it possible to obtain both excellent small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance"

Forbidden Druid: "his makes it possible to obtain both excellent small bump sensitivity and bottom out resistance"

Juliana Roubion: "Along with increased bottom out resistance, the link greatly increases small bump sensitivity"

Julian Maverick: "These changes to the leverage curve help the suspension absorb chatter even better, while also soaking up large hits with ease"

Kona Process 153: "maintain traction much better than before, while also remaining more composed through large impacts"

Norco Sight: "more small bump compliance and rear wheel traction...Increased mid-stroke support and bottom out resistance"

every single description says the same thing: increased small bump sensitivity and reduced bottom out. I WANT THAT MORE than anyone. I am just super surprised that CC is not in the business of building frames rather than fixing frames, because apparently they have a better formula than all the frame builders.



Energ8t said:


> We have yet to see real world reviews, so we can reserve further commentary till they come in.


thanks for telling me to pipe down....i am not your "we." if a for profit company is going to market their wares with objective claims that guarantee to give us what the frame builder can't, ie better small bump compliance and bottom out resistance, that is fine. when the supposition spans 11 of the most lauded brands' oversight [who's most aggressive riders are running non CC linkage], then i am going to step outside of your "we" and "i" am going to wonder exactly what non emotional result i am buying.

again, not taking shots at CC. they wouldnt be solvent if they werent filling a need. but if the need isn't a difference in race/time/safety results, then we have a pretty good idea what need they have addressed.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Thinking those CC claimed attributes are just the net result of more travel along with a solid leverage rate for aggressive riders. 
The manufacturers build a bike in a certain travel category with a certain amount of clearance safety margin to fit in a particular segment with a somewhat linear LR to work well for the masses, and CC just makes it a longer travel bike (in the same package) with a LR for one end of the bell curve. 
No different than car suspension mods for the race track or whatever. It's not that the manufacturers can't, they just won't because of the poor reviews that would result of that decision. 
As rad as my new Evo is, and as unrad as I am as a rider, the stock rear shock performance was wholly inadequate as delivered. Bottoming and saggy even with excessive psi in it. But for the 'average' rider it's what the product managers determined as ideal. 
Eager to test out my own CC link on my Evo; just waiting for a much stiffer rear spring which I now need.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Skatefarmer said:


> Druid vs Stumpjumper Evo Mullet? Currently considering these two bikes, anyone been on the new 2021 Evo ? It looks a pretty great one-bike option right now!


I posted a comparison on this thread about a month ago. See posting# 2636








Forbidden Bike Co Druid


Wondering the same thing. I’m gonna convert to 160 and see how I like it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




www.mtbr.com




BTW, I sold my SJ EVO and going to a large Druid with new front triangle with 1 degree slacker head angle using Wolf Tooth angleset. Hoping to have it all setup by next weekend.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

tdc_worm said:


> Letting myself get pulled back in here, but I am going to assume that no one on the planet wants less small bump compliance and less bottom out resistance. we would be foolish to think, for a second, that anyone would want small bumps to be rougher and that anyone gets a [figurative] kick out of a harsh bottom out. With that in mind, copied and pasted and using CCs own promises:
> 
> Meta 29: "increased the progression of the bike from 17% to 23% to keep the bike planted to the ground over small bumps while also helping prevent harsh bottom outs"
> 
> ...


Every bit of marketing/USPs you posted is similar because that is exactly what the CC links are intended to do; tune the bike to aggressive riding. That's why they exist as a company.

When they say "better", it's meant as better for aggressive riding rough trails or jump lines. It's a mod, not a fix.

I will say that marketing copy is always difficult in it's execution, interpretation and perception. Which is why I tend to lean on reviews and testing. If it's copy written ineffectively, it can suffer. I'm aware of this on a work level as I'm in design and engineering myself for 15 years. I think there is likely some lack of clarity in their copy as your comments are showing.

Seeing the many video and editorial reviews for the variety of CC links, there is AMPLE evidence that the links do offer plenty of benefits and work as intended for aggressive riding.

Note: I think you mistook when I wrote "we", that was "we", the public. It was NOT intended as a passive aggressive comment for YOU to "pipe down" at all. It was regarding the real world reviews confirming or negating the CC claims come the end of April when the Druid link ships.

On that note, I'll refrain from further commentary beyond my personal experiences using the link once it arrives.

Back to the Druidishcentric posts.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

The best thing about these forums is people are able to share their opinions as well as personal experiences with products. I come from a moto background and aftermarket links were a big deal there as well. Most offered the same mojo as what they are advertising now. I was pretty advanced rider and invested in one myself. For me, I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Now obviously I'm comparing apples to oranges here and just because one companies design didn't work for me doesn't mean it wasn't a game changer for someone else. 
CC seems to make a quality product, I'm sure there's merit to what they are engineering.
As for the Druid, the rear of this bike is the most composed I've ever ridden .It essentially disappears under me, hoverbike to steal a term from Evils marketing, ( I had an insurgent, this bike is better imo)
My concern would be to somehow negatively effect that sensation. 
Again, someone with more skill than me or who rides different terrain might have a completely different and valid opinion.

That's what we're here for right ?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I've ridden 700km I on my Druid since August and I'm beginning to get some play in the suspension. Any suggestions on what I should do?


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

meeeeep said:


> I've ridden 700km I on my Druid since August and I'm beginning to get some play in the suspension. Any suggestions on what I should do?


What shock do you have? Could just need the eyelet kit swapping out for a new one.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

6thElement said:


> What shock do you have? Could just need the eyelet kit swapping out for a new one.


It's the dpx2. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take it apart.


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## Bailey100 (May 25, 2017)

meeeeep said:


> It's the dpx2. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take it apart.


If its the shock bushings let me know if you have trouble finding some. I've got a set for a dpx2 you can have , you'd just have to pay the postage.
I went with an ext shock and its completely different *expensive bushings.


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## 6thElement (Jul 17, 2006)

meeeeep said:


> It's the dpx2. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take it apart.


Lifting the bike by the top tube and carefully watching/listening/feeling might let you also see where the play is coming from.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Bailey100 said:


> The best thing about these forums is people are able to share their opinions as well as personal experiences with products. I come from a moto background and aftermarket links were a big deal there as well. Most offered the same mojo as what they are advertising now. I was pretty advanced rider and invested in one myself. For me, I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Now obviously I'm comparing apples to oranges here and just because one companies design didn't work for me doesn't mean it wasn't a game changer for someone else.
> CC seems to make a quality product, I'm sure there's merit to what they are engineering.
> As for the Druid, the rear of this bike is the most composed I've ever ridden .It essentially disappears under me, hoverbike to steal a term from Evils marketing, ( I had an insurgent, this bike is better imo)
> My concern would be to somehow negatively effect that sensation.
> ...


You'd think the Druid disappears underneath you on rough trail and then you ride the Dreadnought...


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I pre-order the CC link for my druid. I also happen to have a Motion instruments data acquisition system. This can put real numbers to the benefits of the link if anyone is interested.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I've ridden 700km I on my Druid since August and I'm beginning to get some play in the suspension. Any suggestions on what I should do?


As mentioned above, probably shock eyelets, and more likely the rear one, since it sees more rotation. You should be able to reach through and lay a finger across the shock end and linkage, and jiggle the bike up and down with your other hand (lifting the seat, or lifting the wheel if it's in a stand). You'll be able to feel the slop if that's where it is.

It was an annual job on my Nomad.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> As mentioned above, probably shock eyelets, and more likely the rear one, since it sees more rotation. You should be able to reach through and lay a finger across the shock end and linkage, and jiggle the bike up and down with your other hand (lifting the seat, or lifting the wheel if it's in a stand). You'll be able to feel the slop if that's where it is.
> 
> It was an annual job on my Nomad.


it's probably the shock bushings, i agree, but to the OP, which direction do you feel play in? I assume you checked the torque on all the pivots.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

CHWK said:


> You'd think the Druid disappears underneath you on rough trail and then you ride the Dreadnought...


Since the Druid and Dreadnought frames are very similar, I really wonder does adding 20mm up front and 24mm in the back transform the bike to 'obliterate all that comes before it'? That's not alot of travel difference - the builds and geo's are different which might make more difference. I've got lots of years under the belt biking and I never felt that ~1" made a significant difference between bikes. But I read people finding a big difference between 150mm and 160mm travel forks - so what do I know!


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Kootenay rider said:


> Since the Druid and Dreadnought frames are very similar, I really wonder does adding 20mm up front and 24mm in the back transform the bike to 'obliterate all that comes before it'? That's not alot of travel difference - the builds and geo's are different which might make more difference. I've got lots of years under the belt biking and I never felt that ~1" made a significant difference between bikes. But I read people finding a big difference between 150mm and 160mm travel forks - so what do I know!


The travel part of it isn't huge, but add to those figures a slacker head angle, a more progressive suspension paired to a longer stroke shock, different components, tires potentially, and it adds up to quite a bit. I think people would acknowledge that the spesh stumpy and enduro are quite different in spite of being even closer (I think...?) in terms of suspension travel figures. That said, if you wanted to go that direction, I think the Druid can be dressed up to be Noughty - Dreadnoughty, that is, whereas I'm not sure you're likely to turn a Dreadnought into a Druid. Maybe with a Lyrik set at 170 if you're a lighter rider but I'd go the other direction if I were you.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Dingleberrry said:


> The travel part of it isn't huge, but add to those figures a slacker head angle, a more progressive suspension paired to a longer stroke shock, different components, tires potentially, and it adds up to quite a bit. I think people would acknowledge that the spesh stumpy and enduro are quite different in spite of being even closer (I think...?) in terms of suspension travel figures. That said, if you wanted to go that direction, I think the Druid can be dressed up to be Noughty - Dreadnoughty, that is, whereas I'm not sure you're likely to turn a Dreadnought into a Druid. Maybe with a Lyrik set at 170 if you're a lighter rider but I'd go the other direction if I were you.


I agree it's probably easier to dress up a bike than down. I've had my Druid for almost a year now and it's been great but like most of us, I'm always looking at the next thing. I'm leaning more towards a DH bike than the Dreadnought but having the ability to pedal up is certainly nice as I'm mostly a solo rider.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

This may have been asked already, and maybe by me! Sorry!

Anyone NOT digging their mullet set up?


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This may have been asked already, and maybe by me! Sorry!
> 
> Anyone NOT digging their mullet set up?


Me.
I've gone pack to 29 and it's way more balanced, faster and less effort than on majority of trails.
Mullet was fun for jumps, berms or flow trails but majority of the trails I ride are natural stuff.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_HENDO_ said:


> Me.
> I've gone pack to 29 and it's way more balanced, faster and less effort than on majority of trails.
> Mullet was fun for jumps, berms or flow trails but majority of the trails I ride are natural stuff.


Thank you for responding.

Did you find the mullet messed up climbing, or was that okay?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Druid is listed for sale if anyone is interested! I seem to be getting on better and better with the Dreadnought than I thought I would and think it may serve a purpose as a single bike for my riding after all. Did 21km and 4000' feet of climbing on it yesterday in the shore. Not in a rush/desperate to part with the Druid, just not sure I am going to be using it much unfortunately!


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Druid is listed for sale if anyone is interested! I seem to be getting on better and better with the Dreadnought than I thought I would and think it may serve a purpose as a single bike for my riding after all. Did 21km and 4000' feet of climbing on it yesterday in the shore. Not in a rush/desperate to part with the Druid, just not sure I am going to be using it much unfortunately!


Encouraging news for the Dreadnaught!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

jay_paradox said:


> Encouraging news for the Dreadnaught!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. Took some time getting used to the longer, slacker, and full 29 life but it just seems to fit me more. The Druid does have a place in my heart but feels super weird jumping back and forth between the two. I might look to building up a hardtail in the winter so I'm not eating up bearings and drivetrains.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

CHWK said:


> Yup. Took some time getting used to the longer, slacker, and full 29 life but it just seems to fit me more. The Druid does have a place in my heart but feels super weird jumping back and forth between the two. I might look to building up a hardtail in the winter so I'm not eating up bearings and drivetrains.


A forbidden hardtail would be sweet


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thank you for responding.
> 
> Did you find the mullet messed up climbing, or was that okay?


You are moved backwards a little more with the mullet so I lowered my bars and changed angle of my saddle to compensate.
Other than that I didn't notice much change on longer forest road climbs.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Yup. Took some time getting used to the longer, slacker, and full 29 life but it just seems to fit me more. The Druid does have a place in my heart but feels super weird jumping back and forth between the two. I might look to building up a hardtail in the winter so I'm not eating up bearings and drivetrains.


Any plans to mullet? Can you remind me again what size frame you have and your height?

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_HENDO_ said:


> You are moved backwards a little more with the mullet so I lowered my bars and changed angle of my saddle to compensate.
> Other than that I didn't notice much change on longer forest road climbs.


Thanks. I actually went back to page 44 or so and dug up a little report you did after you converted to the mullet. You commented then that climbing was not impacted negatively.

Thanks for all your contributions to this thread


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I sold my Druid, but my back ordered spare parts just arrived, I don’t need them so they’re for sale:

Spare derailleur hanger
Spare high pivot cog/bearing.

Send me a PM if interested


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Nurse Ben said:


> I sold my Druid, but my back ordered spare parts just arrived, I don't need them so they're for sale:
> 
> Spare derailleur hanger
> Spare high pivot cog/bearing.
> ...


Did you get your asking for your frame?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

CHWK said:


> Did you get your asking for your frame?


Yes. Pretty amazing really, but it's the nature of bike stuff right.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Nurse Ben said:


> I sold my Druid, but my back ordered spare parts just arrived, I don't need them so they're for sale:
> 
> Spare derailleur hanger
> Spare high pivot cog/bearing.
> ...


That was fast. Might be into the pulley ill pm


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Got my full druid build and just the frame + ext coil listed for sale if anyone is looking 









2021 Forbidden Druid Frameset w/ EXT Storia Coil + Extras For Sale


2021 Forbidden Druid Frameset w/ EXT Storia Coil + Extras For sale on Pinkbike buysell




www.pinkbike.com


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Got my full druid build and just the frame + ext coil listed for sale if anyone is looking
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Was just watching this. That's you right?






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Bailey100 said:


> If its the shock bushings let me know if you have trouble finding some. I've got a set for a dpx2 you can have , you'd just have to pay the postage.
> I went with an ext shock and its completely different *expensive bushings.


Just to follow up and add a data point. I took my linkage apart and cleaned everything. I then regreased and torqued all the bolts up to spec. The play has gone away! I think the problem was with the rate linkage bolt being too loose. At least that's where I could feel the movement with my finger.


















Hopefully this helps some of you out in future so you don't have to throw your Druid in the trash and replace it with a Dreadnought.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I also want to add that the entire linkage assembly looks really good for 6 months of pretty hard riding in pnw rain. The bearings are a litttttle crunchy and I expect I'll have to replace them at the end of the year provided I maintain this ride frequency.

Love the design of the bike.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Is anyone purchasing the Cascade link for the Druid or thinking about it? I don’t have any experience with their links, but the specs are very tempting, especially the added progression. With the 0.4 spacer I feel like I am blowing to easily through most or all of the travel (though never a hard bottom out) when I shouldn’t be. The 0.6 spacer provides me better progression and I have yet to bottom it out, but the suspension doesn’t feel as smooth and fluid overall with the 0.6 spacer and somewhat choking and stuttering feel. So, I am thinking maybe the Cascade link could take care of this dilemma?


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Can't speak to the Cascade on the Druid specifically. But on my Evo it's a phenomenal improvement for my riding, where I too was constantly finding the bottom on the travel even with dialed sag and damping settings and even on just medium trail rides. 
With the Cascade the rear suspension is more responsive off the top, midrange support is way better (which pedals better and also results in less pedal strikes) and now how much travel is used seems congruent with the obstacle or ride instead of just being all the travel every single time. 

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

fizzywater said:


> Is anyone purchasing the Cascade link for the Druid or thinking about it? I don't have any experience with their links, but the specs are very tempting, especially the added progression. With the 0.4 spacer I feel like I am blowing to easily through most or all of the travel (though never a hard bottom out) when I shouldn't be. The 0.6 spacer provides me better progression and I have yet to bottom it out, but the suspension doesn't feel as smooth and fluid overall with the 0.6 spacer and somewhat choking and stuttering feel. So, I am thinking maybe the Cascade link could take care of this dilemma?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine just shipped so I should know soon. A bit worried about the cascade recommended spring. Seems like I should be on a 425-450 according to them, but I started on a 325 and am settling either on 375 or 400. So I guess the increased progression and travel warrants a slight increase in spring weight? Does that make sense?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

The Druid is the best bike I've ever ridden but if there were a weak point it would probably be the Fox 36. Even then, that fork is excellent. BUT, and that's a big "but", if I had $500 burning a hole in my pocket, screwing around with after market linkages would be the last thing I want to do as I consider the Druid's suspension sacred in its perfection. I don't even understand why people insist on screwing around with coil shocks. I would probably buy a Vorsprung Secus or contribute to a wheelset fund.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Or even upgrade to an Ohlins RFX36.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

phazedalx said:


> Mine just shipped so I should know soon. A bit worried about the cascade recommended spring. Seems like I should be on a 425-450 according to them, but I started on a 325 and am settling either on 375 or 400. So I guess the increased progression and travel warrants a slight increase in spring weight? Does that make sense?


Yes that makes sense, take a look at the leverage curve they show on their site. The shock is moving further with the same amount of force immediately off the top so you need a stiffer spring to account for this. If you go with a lighter spring or even the one you currently use you'll have significantly more sag.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> The Druid is the best bike I've ever ridden but if there were a weak point it would probably be the Fox 36. Even then, that fork is excellent. BUT, and that's a big "but", if I had $500 burning a hole in my pocket, screwing around with after market linkages would be the last thing I want to do as I consider the Druid's suspension sacred in its perfection. I don't even understand why people insist on screwing around with coil shocks. I would probably buy a Vorsprung Secus or contribute to a wheelset fund.


You should try it with a coil before you dismiss it... it takes a really good thing and dials it up.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

CHWK said:


> You should try it with a coil before you dismiss it... it takes a really good thing and dials it up.


Is it $1000 better though? The fastest trails I ride are Empress Bypass and Expresso. I use Neds for bracketing. My complaint about the Fox 36, and it's a small complaint, is that it wallows a bit too much on stuff like Severed D but I can live with it by running the pressure a little higher.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

By the way, for everyone living in the Vancouver area, check your shock and fork pressures. I run my shock at 170psi and fork at 80psi and the last time I checked/pumped was back when temperatures were hovering around freezing. Yesterday I checked and the pressures were up to 176/86 lol. No wonder it felt funny.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> Is it $1000 better though? The fastest trails I ride are Empress Bypass and Expresso. I use Neds for bracketing. My complaint about the Fox 36, and it's a small complaint, is that it wallows a bit too much on stuff like Severed D but I can live with it by running the pressure a little higher.


Secus or Runt does improve ride quality significantly. I have a Secus. Worth every penny. Coil on back doesn't have to be a $1K coil. There are more affordable ones out there. I love the coil on the Druid. It's a solid all around performer.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

fizzywater said:


> Is anyone purchasing the Cascade link for the Druid or thinking about it? I don't have any experience with their links, but the specs are very tempting, especially the added progression. With the 0.4 spacer I feel like I am blowing to easily through most or all of the travel (though never a hard bottom out) when I shouldn't be. The 0.6 spacer provides me better progression and I have yet to bottom it out, but the suspension doesn't feel as smooth and fluid overall with the 0.6 spacer and somewhat choking and stuttering feel. So, I am thinking maybe the Cascade link could take care of this dilemma?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine arrives tomorrow I also have an extra air shaft spring for my Fox 36 so I can bump the fork to 160 when I use the Cascade link. I'm keeping both the stock setup (150/130) as well as the new setup (160/142) to experiment with and/or use according to terrain I'm riding which is either seasonal (local) or different locations I travel to.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

fizzywater said:


> Is anyone purchasing the Cascade link for the Druid or thinking about it? I don't have any experience with their links, but the specs are very tempting, especially the added progression. With the 0.4 spacer I feel like I am blowing to easily through most or all of the travel (though never a hard bottom out) when I shouldn't be. The 0.6 spacer provides me better progression and I have yet to bottom it out, but the suspension doesn't feel as smooth and fluid overall with the 0.6 spacer and somewhat choking and stuttering feel. So, I am thinking maybe the Cascade link could take care of this dilemma?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got my link in the mail on Friday. Tried as I might, I could not get the coil to work with a Cane Creek Dbcoil Shock. The way the link is machined doesn't allow me the ability to reinsert both shock bolts at the same time. One or the other. I compared the links and the Cascade piece appears to be slightly shorter in length and with less room to fit the coil. Maybe it could work at 210x50 or 52.5?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

That’s concerning. They must have tried it on a couple of different coil shocks, maybe it’s just a CC specific fit issue?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

rodzilla said:


> Got my link in the mail on Friday. Tried as I might, I could not get the coil to work with a Cane Creek Dbcoil Shock. The way the link is machined doesn't allow me the ability to reinsert both shock bolts at the same time. One or the other. I compared the links and the Cascade piece appears to be slightly shorter in length and with less room to fit the coil. Maybe it could work at 210x50 or 52.5?


Not that it's an ideal way to do it, but maybe undoing the linkage in the front triangle or the main pivot would allow you to get the bolts in and then get the rest together.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Ahhh I see the problem - yes, let the swing arm fall back and do the rear bolt first, then lift the swing arm up to allow the front bolt


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

johnsogr said:


> That's concerning. They must have tried it on a couple of different coil shocks, maybe it's just a CC specific fit issue?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe it's a Cane Creek issue. I took these pictures for the FB Forbidden thread. I think think the way the link is machined doesn't allow enough space for the bottom end of the coil shock to get into same position as the air shock can. So when you line up the shock mount bolts you can only insert the front or the rear bolts, never both at the same time.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Anyone else try to mount with a coil of a different brand? I’m still waiting on mine...


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

My Push measures 2.5 cm from middle of the rear bolt hole to the spring retainer hardware - is the CC much shorter?


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

johnsogr said:


> My Push measures 2.5 cm from middle of the rear bolt hole to the spring retainer hardware - is the CC much shorter?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I put the original link and the shock back on the bike so can't measure right now.


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

The Cascade Components link appears to be incompatible with the EXT Storia also. It simply won't mount up, possibly because the rear end of the shock doesn't clear the linkage appropriately. Pretty disappointing for an "engineering focused" company.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

I also had a small issue getting the Push shock to mount with the Cascade Link. What i did was to loosen the coil ring a tad so it would compress a bit and then mounted it, turned the coil ring back and tightened grub screw. It's a matter of a millimeter.

Did a quick ride after snowboarding all day. Trail was dusty, drier trail conditions and still pulled 10 Strava PRs. Some uphill, quite a few on the DH sections/rock gardens. That's with me having to pass 4-5 people as well. So it seemed to help in all conditions.

I can def feel a positive difference with the fork at 160 now and rear at 142. Plusher off the top, great midstroke support and the progression where i tested it feels better as well. Didn't really notice anything negative yet. I also really noticed a difference riding over roots. Eats them up much better now. Pretty stoked on it. Didn't really notice any negative impacts on geo from the fork. I'm not terribly picky with minute shifts if the extra travel gives me some DH prowess.









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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I also had a small issue getting the Push shock to mount with the Cascade Link. What i did was to loosen the coil ring a tad so it would compress a bit and then mounted it, turned the coil ring back and tightened grub screw. It's a matter of a millimeter.
> 
> Did a quick ride after snowboarding all day. Trail was dusty, drier trail conditions and still pulled 10 Strava PRs. Some uphill, quite a few on the DH sections/rock gardens. That's with me having to pass 4-5 people as well. So it seemed to help in all conditions.
> 
> ...


Do you have the Gen 2 or 1 11-6?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Do you have the Gen 2 or 1 11-6?


It's an 11-6R, gen 2 purchased last June.

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> It's an 11-6R, gen 2 purchased last June.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks. I have a Gen 1. Not sure how it would go with the Cascade link.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks. I have a Gen 1. Not sure how it would go with the Cascade link.


Yeah, strange, because the link is supposed to be compatible with all the shocks. It does appear to be a tad tight. Whether loosening the coil a tad to install or letting air pressure out, it should be mountable. Hopefully not a big issue for others.

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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Energ8t said:


> I also had a small issue getting the Push shock to mount with the Cascade Link. What i did was to loosen the coil ring a tad so it would compress a bit and then mounted it, turned the coil ring back and tightened grub screw. It's a matter of a millimeter.
> 
> Did a quick ride after snowboarding all day. Trail was dusty, drier trail conditions and still pulled 10 Strava PRs. Some uphill, quite a few on the DH sections/rock gardens. That's with me having to pass 4-5 people as well. So it seemed to help in all conditions.
> 
> ...


 I tried your technique, and with loosening the preload ring a bunch of turns, was able to get it mounted up. Once it mounted, I screwed the preload ring back down, but it took a lot less turns for the spring to become tight. This made me concerned that the end of the shock (spring clip/retainer) was impacting the link. I disassembled to inspect, and sure enough, there were little marks in the anodization of the link from the end of the shock. I feel like this confirms that at least for the EXT, it is not compatible. In your situation, it might be good to verify that the end (bottom) is not resting on the link, as it would destroy your shock and the link eventually.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

northerngnar said:


> I tried your technique, and with loosening the preload ring a bunch of turns, was able to get it mounted up. Once it mounted, I screwed the preload ring back down, but it took a lot less turns for the spring to become tight. This made me concerned that the end of the shock (spring clip/retainer) was impacting the link. I disassembled to inspect, and sure enough, there were little marks in the anodization of the link from the end of the shock. I feel like this confirms that at least for the EXT, it is not compatible. In your situation, it might be good to verify that the end (bottom) is not resting on the link, as it would destroy your shock and the link eventually.


I'll take a look and report back... I literally only had to "squeeze" it about a millimeter or less, so unlike there's any oddities.

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

northerngnar said:


> I tried your technique, and with loosening the preload ring a bunch of turns, was able to get it mounted up. Once it mounted, I screwed the preload ring back down, but it took a lot less turns for the spring to become tight. This made me concerned that the end of the shock (spring clip/retainer) was impacting the link. I disassembled to inspect, and sure enough, there were little marks in the anodization of the link from the end of the shock. I feel like this confirms that at least for the EXT, it is not compatible. In your situation, it might be good to verify that the end (bottom) is not resting on the link, as it would destroy your shock and the link eventually.


So I took the shock out and looked at link where any contact could happen. I couldn't really see anything which there should be after the ride I put on it. It's possible there is a tiny mark, but it was hardly visible. I bolted the shock back on the link with the front bolt out, pushed up on the frame from the bottom bracket and the shock moved upward darn near immediately meaning there is some very, very tight clearance, if any, between the retainer ring and the link. I'll reach out to CC and link this forum, because this seems like an oversight. Seems like they didn't test all of the shocks that would be used on the link and didn't provide enough clearance for all of them. There's not really any reason it shouldn't fit all of the shocks mentioned in this forum.

If I had to adjust myself, I'd file, Dremel or mill clearance for the ring which I'd venture a guess shouldn't affect the integrity of the link... At this point I'll wait for CC response.

Edit: The install mentions checking clearance, but seems odd it wouldn't be compatible with EXT or Push as those are both common shocks for this bike. Their instructions mentions checking frame clearance, but the concern for me is link/retainer clearance:

8) Check for proper clearance of all moving parts through the entirety of your bike's suspension travel. To do this let all the air out of the shock or remove the spring (re-install spring retainer after removing spring) and cycle the bike through its travel by hand, closely inspecting clearance of all moving parts to the frame.

This is roughly where the ring is "contacting":


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Energ8t said:


> So I took the shock out and looked at link where any contact could happen. I couldn't really see anything which there should be after the ride I put on it. It's possible there is a tiny mark, but it was hardly visible. I bolted the shock back on the link with the front bolt out, pushed up on the frame from the bottom bracket and the shock moved upward darn near immediately meaning there is some very, very tight clearance, if any, between the retainer ring and the link. I'll reach out to CC and link this forum, because this seems like an oversight. Seems like they didn't test all of the shocks that would be used on the link and didn't provide enough clearance for all of them. There's not really any reason it shouldn't fit all of the shocks mentioned in this forum.
> 
> If I had to adjust myself, I'd file, Dremel or mill clearance for the ring which I'd venture a guess shouldn't affect the integrity of the link... At this point I'll wait for CC response.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the detailed response - I'm shocked they didn't catch this in testing, especially since the link truly is made for coil. Please let us know what they say!

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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Energ8t said:


> So I took the shock out and looked at link where any contact could happen. I couldn't really see anything which there should be after the ride I put on it. It's possible there is a tiny mark, but it was hardly visible. I bolted the shock back on the link with the front bolt out, pushed up on the frame from the bottom bracket and the shock moved upward darn near immediately meaning there is some very, very tight clearance, if any, between the retainer ring and the link. I'll reach out to CC and link this forum, because this seems like an oversight. Seems like they didn't test all of the shocks that would be used on the link and didn't provide enough clearance for all of them. There's not really any reason it shouldn't fit all of the shocks mentioned in this forum.
> 
> If I had to adjust myself, I'd file, Dremel or mill clearance for the ring which I'd venture a guess shouldn't affect the integrity of the link... At this point I'll wait for CC response.
> 
> ...


Yes, thanks for the post. This is exactly where my EXT is impinging on the link, although it seems like to a greater extent. Curious to hear Cascade's response to this issue :/


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

northerngnar said:


> Yes, thanks for the post. This is exactly where my EXT is impinging on the link, although it seems like to a greater extent. Curious to hear Cascade's response to this issue :/


+1 thanks for the post. Im having the same issue :\

Bummer


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Buzz kill on the CC link


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Seriously, I just emailed saying to refund my order until they fix it.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Was just about to order the CC, but thankfully looked here first. I guess we're all beta testers. Hoping to use the link with a Push, gen. 1 coil.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Thrawn said:


> Was just about to order the CC, but thankfully looked here first. I guess we're all beta testers. Hoping to use the link with a Push, gen. 1 coil.


I'm definitely holding off.

I also have a set of limited production oil slick DT240 EXPs on hold at my LBS. Those appear to be fraught with issues too. I'm going to have to bail on them as well.

What is going on right now? There seems to be a rising number of unexpected design/manufacturing fails all of a sudden from outta nowhere.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_duplicate post - sorry_


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm definitely holding off.
> 
> I also have a set of limited production oil slick DT240 EXPs on hold at my LBS. Those appear to be fraught with issues too. I'm going to have to bail on them as well.
> 
> What is going on right now? There seems to be a rising number of unexpected design/manufacturing fails all of a sudden from outta nowhere.


Yeah kind of a bummer... It happens though with small companies. I don't fault them tooooo hard. All their other links worked fine so this is a one-off at this point. I'd prefer to help them through it rather than get pissed.

I rode again today on jump lines and it was fine for me. Still too tight on clearance IMHO

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Emailed Cascade Components about the issues and linked this forum. Should hear back soon. 


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

FYI

Hello,

It has come to our attention that a majority of coil shocks may have fitment issues when using the Cascade Components link on the Forbidden Druid. If you have the stock DPX2 shock, all clearances are adequate and there are no foreseen issues. Coil shock users should check for clearance between the lower spring retainer and the link itself to ensure there is no contact between the shock and link.

If you have a coil shock and are experiencing fitment issues or believe you may have some fitment issues, please contact us directly at [email protected] and we can work together to get your link returned and refunded. Additionally, if you have already placed an order but it has not shipped we will gladly cancel your order and issue a refund.

Thank you,

*David Howell
*

11520 Airport Rd, Building E
Everett, WA 98204, USA


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

PisgahGnar said:


> FYI
> 
> Hello,
> 
> ...


Wow
All that "testing" they did? Basically amounted to: We shred so hard, brah. So hard. Harder than you, so this thing will totally work. 
Seriously did they do anything? "The majority of coil shock users..."


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Dingleberrry said:


> Wow
> All that "testing" they did? Basically amounted to: We shred so hard, brah. So hard. Harder than you, so this thing will totally work.
> Seriously did they do anything? "The majority of coil shock users..."


From my testing, the link works really well. It seems to be working fine with my ElevenSix R, but it could benefit from slight tolerancing between coil ring and link. The ride quality was certainly executed well from my testing. The issue is fitment with many coils, which is unfortunate as it really should work with all compatible shocks, IMHO. That said, if you hunt around for CC link reviews online they're all pretty stellar. So I wouldn't say this situation has anything to do with them making products that don't perform. Small companies sometimes have snafus, so I'd rather be supportive at this point.

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## springs (May 20, 2017)

Dingleberrry said:


> Wow
> All that "testing" they did? Basically amounted to: We shred so hard, brah. So hard. Harder than you, so this thing will totally work.
> Seriously did they do anything? "The majority of coil shock users..."


Fair call.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Energ8t said:


> From my testing, the link works really well. It seems to be working fine with my ElevenSix R, but it could benefit from slight tolerancing between coil ring and link. The ride quality was certainly executed well from my testing. The issue is fitment with many coils, which is unfortunate as it really should work with all compatible shocks, IMHO. That said, if you hunt around for CC link reviews online they're all pretty stellar. So I wouldn't say this situation has anything to do with them making products that don't perform. Small companies sometimes have snafus, so I'd rather be supportive at this point.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Have the link coming and an 11-6R - you're pretty convinced it doesn't rub? Also, did you have to change spring rate for the 30-33% sag recommendation?

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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

I saw this 'dream build' of a dreadnought:








NSMB.com - Mike Grimwood's Forbidden Dreadnought


A fully custom high-pivot North Shore trail tamer.




nsmb.com




looks nice and all, but what I noted was that they weren't running the lower chainguide, and they said all was fine.

Also, speaking of the lower chainguide pulley (I have a Druid, not a d'0), mine has two grooves in it that are getting progressively deeper. When do you folks change out the pulley? I'm still on my first.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hbar said:


> I saw this 'dream build' of a dreadnought:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Mine lasted a season before it was fully shredded. I loosened the tension a bit, and have spares now. Same with the high pulley. I'm on the third one of those. I got a gen 2 link as well after the original one was creaking. I also have a spare chainstay protector - mine is almost destroyed.

Now that I recall, I ran that bike for a week with no lower guide. I really liked how it felt but reinstalled it nonetheless. I didn't lose a chain once, and I believe I rode every day for a week, guide-less, with no ill effects.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Mine lasted a season before it was fully shredded. I loosened the tension a bit, and have spares now. Same with the high pulley. I'm on the third one of those. I got a gen 2 link as well after the original one was creaking. I also have a spare chainstay protector - mine is almost destroyed.
> 
> Now that I recall, I ran that bike for a week with no lower guide. I really liked how it felt but reinstalled it nonetheless. I didn't lose a chain once, and I believe I rode every day for a week, guide-less, with no ill effects.


Thanks for the reply. actually I also was wondering about the idler--I saw that Wolftooth makes a chainring with tooth profiles specifically for Shimano 12 speed (Chain Compatibility by Chainring Tooth Profile) and wondered if it would improve pulley life & noise if Forbidden made drivetrain-specific idlers (I have shimano). A pain for sure, but quiet is also nice. Really, I'd still prefer that the idler was a) steel, and b) reversible so you could flip it once it got worn, old school granny gear style.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hbar said:


> Thanks for the reply. actually I also was wondering about the idler--I saw that Wolftooth makes a chainring with tooth profiles specifically for Shimano 12 speed (Chain Compatibility by Chainring Tooth Profile) and wondered if it would improve pulley life & noise if Forbidden made drivetrain-specific idlers (I have shimano). A pain for sure, but quiet is also nice. Really, I'd still prefer that the idler was a) steel, and b) reversible so you could flip it once it got worn, old school granny gear style.


There was talk of a stainless idler back in the day. In fact, Owen himself came on here and asked if there would be any interest. And then...crickets.

PS - he also came on to say that the idler had been redesigned at one point to accommodate the Shimano 12 speed drivetrain when it came out. It's all in here somewhere.

PPS - I see I first got in on page 1 at post 18. I have been around for a while, but had forgotten just how how long. I remember Owen used to frequent this thread every now and then back in the day.

PPPS - this thread was started by Legbacon, aka Travis Bickle, aka Jerry M. I went to Cumberland and rode with him a season before he died on the trail. This long thread carries with it lots of memories.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Have the link coming and an 11-6R - you're pretty convinced it doesn't rub? Also, did you have to change spring rate for the 30-33% sag recommendation?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm still observing the potential shock contact. I did two long rides and two runs through a jump section. I took the shock out and there weren't any nics on the link or the coil retainer ring. I'll probably pull the link and shock out to see where it can be "adjusted" to provide extra clearance.

I went from a 450 to a 500lb spring.

With such tight clearances, it may vary from bike to bike. I'd say proceed at your own caution.

In the email thread from CC, someone mentioned using an offset bushing (mainly to help with the 160 fork), but that may potentially help with fitment as well (?)

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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> Thanks for the reply. actually I also was wondering about the idler--I saw that Wolftooth makes a chainring with tooth profiles specifically for Shimano 12 speed (Chain Compatibility by Chainring Tooth Profile) and wondered if it would improve pulley life & noise if Forbidden made drivetrain-specific idlers (I have shimano). A pain for sure, but quiet is also nice. Really, I'd still prefer that the idler was a) steel, and b) reversible so you could flip it once it got worn, old school granny gear style.


I just replaced my idler after less than a year. Glad I checked because it was surprisingly worn out compared to the rest of the drivetrain. I have done a ton of climbing though. Time to get another backup.









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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

Energ8t said:


> I just replaced my idler after less than a year. Glad I checked because it was surprisingly worn out compared to the rest of the drivetrain. I have done a ton of climbing though. Time to get another backup.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That idler pulley is like a jockey wheel, it's just a guide you don't put any power through it. It doesn't need to be replaced as it gets worn out. Fact is it probably has less friction on your chain when it's worn out.
That's my opinion anyways.

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## gforcephoto (Apr 22, 2004)

just got my link. I didnt install it but lining up the link to shock position for my Super Deluxe coil.. this thing wont fit. Im not sure how any coil will fit its so narrow between the channels. I doubt a X2 air can will fit without hitting.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

gforcephoto said:


> just got my link. I didnt install it but lining up the link to shock position for my Super Deluxe coil.. this thing wont fit. Im not sure how any coil will fit its so narrow between the channels. I doubt a X2 air can will fit without hitting.


If it doesn't that's pretty shitty. They told someone that they tested with a super deluxe. It had an ext spring on it but still. Report back. I'm patiently waiting for someone to try a 2021 DHX2. My link should come this week but my Druid frame is backordered so I won't know for a while.


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## gforcephoto (Apr 22, 2004)

They should have crowdsourced the shocks if they didnt have access to them. I'm sure people would be willing to ship them a coil to temporarily test for a small discount.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

gforcephoto said:


> just got my link. I didnt install it but lining up the link to shock position for my Super Deluxe coil.. this thing wont fit. Im not sure how any coil will fit its so narrow between the channels. I doubt a X2 air can will fit without hitting.


On a side note, how do you like the Super Deluxe on your Druid? Did you have it tuned or are you running it as it comes?


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## gforcephoto (Apr 22, 2004)

ALS650L said:


> On a side note, how do you like the Super Deluxe on your Druid? Did you have it tuned or are you running it as it comes?


I have both the Super Deluxe Air and Coil, The air came with L/L tune but the coil I had my local shop retune it for Low/Low. I run a 350lb spring at 30% sag. I like it but I like the air shock better.


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## gforcephoto (Apr 22, 2004)

and as an update on the Cascade Link. I heard back from them. They're working on a V2 to work with clearance issues of coils. I'm sending mine back. I want the flexibility of running both.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> That idler pulley is like a jockey wheel, it's just a guide you don't put any power through it. It doesn't need to be replaced as it gets worn out. Fact is it probably has less friction on your chain when it's worn out.
> That's my opinion anyways.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


Respectfully, I completely disagree - there's a ton of load, all of your power, going through that idler pulley, it is not like a jockey wheel on a derailleur (low resistance part of the system). They are clearly wearing as quickly as a chainring, and that wear leads to moments of friction when coming out the deepening groove. I would replace as regularly as I do my chainring.

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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

johnsogr said:


> Respectfully, I completely disagree - there's a ton of load, all of your power, going through that idler pulley, it is not like a jockey wheel on a derailleur (low resistance part of the system). They are clearly wearing as quickly as a chainring, and that wear leads to moments of friction when coming out the deepening groove. I would replace as regularly as I do my chainring.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


johnsogr, you are correct, all of the chain tension goes through the idler. The wear rate is going to be much higher than with a chainring, given the lower number of teeth on the idler - 16T I think. The stainless steel version that mtnbkrmike mentioned would be a really nice upgrade, if it ever becomes available.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> johnsogr, you are correct, all of the chain tension goes through the idler. The wear rate is going to be much higher than with a chainring, given the lower number of teeth on the idler - 16T I think. The stainless steel version that mtnbkrmike mentioned would be a really nice upgrade, if it ever becomes available.


See post #901 (top of page 46). There are earlier posts by Forbidden as well. I know you know this already (cuz you were right in the middle of it) but others may not.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

pinkrobe said:


> johnsogr, you are correct, all of the chain tension goes through the idler. The wear rate is going to be much higher than with a chainring, given the lower number of teeth on the idler - 16T I think. The stainless steel version that mtnbkrmike mentioned would be a really nice upgrade, if it ever becomes available.


Is it the right time that we all send them an email asking for a stainless steel one?

The standard idlers are rarely in stock where i am either.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

gforcephoto said:


> and as an update on the Cascade Link. I heard back from them. They're working on a V2 to work with clearance issues of coils. I'm sending mine back. I want the flexibility of running both.


Great news. Anything on timing for that?


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Would titanium be a good option for an idler pulley?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I'd like a brass idler pulley. I wouldn't mind the extra weight in exchange for greater durability. It'd also look pretty cool.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Cascade quietly updated the product page for the link to say it's only compatible with the dpx2 and super deluxe air shocks and that all coil shocks do not fit


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

SOLD spare idler pulley and derailleur hanger SOLD


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Nurse Ben said:


> I still have a spare idler pulley and derailleur hanger if anyone wants them. New, never used.


Ben - out of curiosity, what bike has caught your interest at the moment?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I replaced my idler pulley, top chain guide (because it was broken) and lower guide wheel.


















800km since I bought the bike in August. All the weird creaks and ticks are now gone thank God. The idler pulley was wobbly and I think the bearings were totally mashed.


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## Hotrodstu77 (Jan 18, 2021)

Finally got some pavement rides in. Nothing major maybe 7km to work on set up. Holy this bike is whisper quiet with road tires and a silent hub. Also with 27.5 front and rear it accelerates so quick i can basically leave it in highest gear all the time with my 30t sprocket and it pedals like its still 2 or 3 gears below. Frame feels way stiffer then my aluminum stumpy did. I'm in love. Hitting some long trails Sunday!


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## daginge78 (Feb 28, 2021)

Do you leave each zip tie at 6 inches long in the top tube? I'd like to try this but not sure how it works. 


armyofevilrobots said:


> I didn't actually claim to hate it that much. I like the _look_ of internal routing, but it's a bit tricky to get right, and the druid sounded like the "two skeletons having sex in a biscuit tin" until I did the zip-tie trick to quiet it down. For those who don't know about it, put some zip-ties (about 6-8" long IIRC in my case) on each of the top-tube routed cables, and use a slitted 1/4" tube as a tool to push them down the cable into the frame at 4-6" intervals. The cables act as springs to hold the brake/cable lines in place and prevent the rattling.
> 
> I used 3/4" insulation noodle in the downtube to quiet down the dropper cable.
> 
> Anyhow, I think the pain of internal routing is generally overstated, but it's enough of a PITA to mention. The druid was only really bothersome at the rear of the top-tube. The ride-wrap was way more time and effort, in comparison.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Ben - out of curiosity, what bike has caught your interest at the moment?


I've got a Canfield Tilt on order, still riding a Guerrilla Gravity Shred Dogg


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Couple of things re the chain.

Apparently I blew through my XX1 chain in one season. It was so sloppy from side to side that we couldn’t get it to stop skipping in 1st to 5th. New chain and boom - problem solved.

Second, with a 30 tooth ring on a large frame running a SRAM XO1/Next R drivetrain, 1 chain is all I need. I note that my last shop put two on and took maybe 2 links out in total. Nice. Thanks guys. Really happy to have paid for that second XX1 chain.

Anyway, I’m good to go now.

Double Down Assegai Maxxgrip and DD DHR II Maxterra, a serviced 11-6 and 36, and rebuilt/replaced this and that front to back.

Super hungry for the season to start here. Just waiting for the latest snowfall to disappear. In the meantime, we are stuck with Zwifting and dreaming of dirt.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

daginge78 said:


> Do you leave each zip tie at 6 inches long in the top tube? I'd like to try this but not sure how it works.


Yea. Long zip ties act like springs against the inside of the tubes, that prevent the cables from bouncing around.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Couple of things re the chain.
> 
> Second, with a 30 tooth ring on a large frame running a SRAM XO1/Next R drivetrain, 1 chain is all I need. I note that my last shop put two on and took maybe 2 links out in total. Nice. Thanks guys. Really happy to have paid for that second XX1 chain.


I built up an XL recently and was fortunate to have saved the extra links from my last X01 chain on my old bike. It stinks that chains are just a few links too short, but perhaps with longer chainstays coming into fashion we will get longer chains.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ALS650L said:


> I built up an XL recently and was fortunate to have saved the extra links from my last X01 chain on my old bike. It stinks that chains are just a few links too short, but perhaps with longer chainstays coming into fashion we will get longer chains.


I'd be great if Forbidden just sold links on the accessories page. Make life easier for us.

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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Couple of things re the chain.
> 
> Apparently I blew through my XX1 chain in one season. It was so sloppy from side to side that we couldn't get it to stop skipping in 1st to 5th. New chain and boom - problem solved.
> 
> ...


I've had a similar experience with the side to side slop and my X01 chain lasting about a season (also a large with 30t chain ring and 126 links). It didn't show any excess stretch but felt worn due to the lateral movement. I was cleaning the chain yesterday and noticed a broken inner plate on the outside which I haven't seen in years of biking. So new chain it is!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kootenay rider said:


> I've had a similar experience with the side to side slop and my X01 chain lasting about a season (also a large with 30t chain ring and 126 links). It didn't show any excess stretch but felt worn due to the lateral movement. I was cleaning the chain yesterday and noticed a broken inner plate on the outside which I haven't seen in years of biking. So new chain it is!


Mine had relatively minimal stretch too. It was the side to side play that was ridiculous. Like a tired dink.


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## Goblin (May 21, 2004)

FWIW if anyone was wondering, I just tried installing the Cascade Link on my first gen elevensix and it was a no-go, not even close. Not sure if this had already been answered but I figured it was worth trying before I return it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Goblin said:


> FWIW if anyone was wondering, I just tried installing the Cascade Link on my first gen elevensix and it was a no-go, not even close. Not sure if this had already been answered but I figured it was worth trying before I return it.


Good to know (especially since I, too, am a first gen 11-6 owner). Thanks.


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## krispeuf (Apr 25, 2021)

If anyone in the Vancouver/Squamish area needs to send back their link, I could also buy it off you instead, as I'm looking for one. This way we can both save on shipping.


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## Natazhat (Sep 4, 2019)

Going to jump on this thread as the Druid is on my short list for a new do-it-all AM bike. (unfortunately it’s the only one I haven’t demoed..)


I’m looking for an all mountain / light enduro bike to ride in Squamish, Whistler and Pemberton. I ride the shore a fair bit too.

I’m about 5’9”, 165 lbs and I can’t decide if the Druid or Dreadnought is a better fit for me. I have a dedicated park bike. I’m an advanced (but not amazing) rider looking to progress. I seem to get along with more planted, forgiving bikes than outright playful ones.

I recently demoed a friend’s large sight and really enjoyed it. I’m currently on a medium Reign 29er Advanced Pro 0 which can sometimes feel a touch cramped. I don’t particularly love the DH performance of it.

Am I crazy to think a medium Druid is a bit too light duty for me? The wheelbase seems small.

On the flip side, could a large work for me? The STL makes me a bit leery, given my 30’ inseam.

Is this going to be enough bike for trails like 19th Hole, Rusty Trombone in Pemby and the like? I have a dedicated park bike for when I feel like hitting some lifts.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Natazhat said:


> Going to jump on this thread as the Druid is on my short list for a new do-it-all AM bike. (unfortunately it's the only one I haven't demoed..)
> 
> I'm looking for an all mountain / light enduro bike to ride in Squamish, Whistler and Pemberton. I ride the shore a fair bit too.
> 
> ...


I'll put in my feedback from someone who's current riding home is Kamloops with dabs in the interior and the odd trip out to the coast. Actually I was just in Squamish last fall for a riding trip.

You mentioned liking 'planted, forgiving bikes' and given your riding area I would say the Dreadnought would be a better fit. I love the Druid and I feel it punches above it's class but when hitting bigger terrain it doesn't feel as planted or forgiving - now that doesn't mean it can't handle the gnar but it has it's limits. The rider is the bigger factor than the bike. If by progressing you mean going faster and hitting bigger lines, the Dreadnought would help you find your limits easier (and maybe safer) than the Druid. IMO.

Vital MTB did a review in Squamish --> Forbidden Druid Frame - Reviews, Comparisons, Specs - Mountain Bike Frames - Vital MTB


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Natazhat said:


> Going to jump on this thread as the Druid is on my short list for a new do-it-all AM bike. (unfortunately it's the only one I haven't demoed..)
> 
> I'm looking for an all mountain / light enduro bike to ride in Squamish, Whistler and Pemberton. I ride the shore a fair bit too.
> 
> ...


I cannot speak to adequacy of the Druid for the places you typically ride. I ride primarily Southern Oregon and California. Anyway, I am 5'7", have 30" inseam and currently 155 pounds, though will typically drop to 145-150 come summer time. I started out on a medium Druid as a trail bike, but came to the realization that I really wanted an AM bike after owning a Specialized Stumpjumper EVO for a short period of time. I liked the more AM/Enduro oriented geometry of the EVO, but love the suspension performance and design of the Druid much better. So, moved on to a large Druid, slacked out the head angle by 1 degree and am a very happy camper now with the large Druid as my AM bike. Caveats are that I am limited to 125mm dropper due to the taller seat tube of the large and I had to go from 50mm to 35mm stem, which took me some getting used to, but settled in just fine after a few rides...not in terms of overall fit when riding seated (that's perfectly fine with the 35mm) or with the reach while descending...it's more of a leverage thing when going to a shorter stem while keeping the handle bar the same length...just noticed a bit more jitteriness in the steering, especially when landing from jumps or drops at high speed, but adjusted over time. BTW, my large Druid is also less prone to the front getting lighter on really steep uphills (I am guessing due to the longer CS, longer reach and steeper phyisical seat tube angle). Lastly, if you already have a designated park bike, there may be too much redundancy/overlap with a Dreadnought?


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Natazhat said:


> Going to jump on this thread as the Druid is on my short list for a new do-it-all AM bike. (unfortunately it's the only one I haven't demoed..)
> 
> I'm looking for an all mountain / light enduro bike to ride in Squamish, Whistler and Pemberton. I ride the shore a fair bit too.
> 
> ...


185lbs, 5-9" with 31.5" inseam. On the large Druid with 160mm fox 36, 35mm stem, and 185mm dropper (revive with .5" of available drop space). This bike fits me perfectly and is ideal for riding on southern Vancouver Island. Hitting all the double blacks in our riding areas on the southern island. I hit flow trails, jump lines, and really enjoy the older tech lines. The DPX2(2nd largest volume spacer installed) o-ring has found a permanent residency off the end but I've never felt a big bottom out. The Druid doesn't hold me back if I rode bigger terrain (10' plus drops and higher speed), I'd be tempted to go up to the dreadnought. Haven't even considered the upgrade for myself, but I don't live where you do 
Also, I love the way this bike climbs and I really enjoy that aspect of riding now that I'm in my 40s and injuries take longer to heal. It's not a fast climber, but it's so comfortable and the large frame helps keep the front wheel down. The slow tech climbs are where it shines. I can't comment on the climbing ability of the Dreadnought. I'm sure it would have similar characteristic with a small weight penalty. The Druid is no lightweight AM machine. It's 35lbs on my scale with DD rear tire and a tube in the frame.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

vanislemtbr said:


> 185lbs, 5-9" with 31.5" inseam. On the large Druid with 160mm fox 36, 35mm stem, and 185mm dropper (revive with .5" of available drop space). This bike fits me perfectly and is ideal for riding on southern Vancouver Island. Hitting all the double blacks in our riding areas on the southern island. I hit flow trails, jump lines, and really enjoy the older tech lines. The DPX2(2nd largest volume spacer installed) o-ring has found a permanent residency off the end but I've never felt a big bottom out. The Druid doesn't hold me back if I rode bigger terrain (10' plus drops and higher speed), I'd be tempted to go up to the dreadnought. Haven't even considered the upgrade for myself, but I don't live where you do
> Also, I love the way this bike climbs and I really enjoy that aspect of riding now that I'm in my 40s and injuries take longer to heal. It's not a fast climber, but it's so comfortable and the large frame helps keep the front wheel down. The slow tech climbs are where it shines. I can't comment on the climbing ability of the Dreadnought. I'm sure it would have similar characteristic with a small weight penalty. The Druid is no lightweight AM machine. It's 35lbs on my scale with DD rear tire and a tube in the frame.


I live in Vancouver and I feel the same way about the Druid on north shore trails. The bike is a little heavy but I'm all about the downhill anyway . I'd love a Dreadnought just for the nerds paint but really, I don't need it.


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## Natazhat (Sep 4, 2019)

meeeeep said:


> I live in Vancouver and I feel the same way about the Druid on north shore trails. The bike is a little heavy but I'm all about the downhill anyway . I'd love a Dreadnought just for the nerds paint but really, I don't need it.


Are there any trails where it struggles? Have you had it up in Squam / Whistler on anything super rugged? Heavy G-Outs?

I wish there were places to demo these bad boys in town.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Natazhat said:


> Are there any trails where it struggles? Have you had it up in Squam / Whistler on anything super rugged? Heavy G-Outs?
> 
> I wish there were places to demo these bad boys in town.


I haven't had a chance to take it to Squamish or Whistler yet. I've done a fair bit of Fraser Valley riding at Bear and Eagle mountain. When our province lifts travel restrictions I'll be taking some sick days  to shred the gnar. 
I'm not a daredevil kind of rider and I lack the skill to wheelie drop anything more than a foot or so. Basically I'm too old and chicken to ride like some of those french guys in Squamish. I have bottomed out the shock a handful of times and that's mostly due to my negligence in making sure the shock pressure is set properly.

I have a hard time thinking about where the bike struggles to ride. I had a rough time on Neds last week when temperatures hit 20+ degrees but that was because my fork pressure was up by 5psi. PSA: if you last set your pressure in cold temperatures, make sure you check the pressure again when it warms up!


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Will be joining the club this summer. Placed my order for a purple frame this morning.


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## Xavier0905 (Dec 15, 2020)

same here, finally placed an order for a Large Brownstone!

I demoed it in Bellingham late 2019, and I've been obsessed with it since. Can't wait to have it built up (I have all the parts from my last bike ready)


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## Natazhat (Sep 4, 2019)

Xavier0905 said:


> same here, finally placed an order for a Large Brownstone!
> 
> I demoed it in Bellingham late 2019, and I've been obsessed with it since. Can't wait to have it built up (I have all the parts from my last bike ready)


Who's got stock?


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## Xavier0905 (Dec 15, 2020)

Natazhat said:


> Who's got stock?


Oh, nobody does, it's a pre-order!

Now, onto selling my Superfoxy, that bike is amazing, but a touch too big for my liking,


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Thought I'd share some pics and setup (I'm 165 lbs):

Mezzer Expert at 150, 45/70 psi (have IRT), VVT at position 3

Cascade Link

Avalanche tuned DPX2 @ 170 psi (32% sag), rebound -4, LSC -8

Finally got the bike where I want it - cascade Link is fantastic! So much more small bump compliance, and the tuned DPX2 helps the bike climb like a dream. Never had a bike that jumps like this, so much confidence. Should note I also removed the chain guide, and now use a complete, standard length chain without any issue. I'm like 30% roadie, so the friction from the lower guide was bugging the hell out of me (I wax my chain, that's how annoyed I am by friction)


















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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Xavier0905 said:


> Oh, nobody does, it's a pre-order!
> 
> Now, onto selling my Superfoxy, that bike is amazing, but a touch too big for my liking,


Same boat. I preordered mine to replace my Foxy R. It was great for awhile, but it is just too long to be perfect.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

johnsogr said:


> Thought I'd share some pics and setup (I'm 165 lbs):
> 
> Mezzer Expert at 150, 45/70 psi (have IRT), VVT at position 3
> 
> ...


Kinematics is not my strong suit.

Regarding the cascade link and sag:
19mm/35% sag is recommended by Forbidden with the stock link, since the cascade link is lengthening travel by altering progression, does that 19mm sag number increase as well?

I know it's probably negligible due to the small numbers involved but curious anyway.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

johnsogr said:


> Thought I'd share some pics and setup (I'm 165 lbs):
> 
> Mezzer Expert at 150, 45/70 psi (have IRT), VVT at position 3
> 
> ...


What size chainring is that and bike size.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

shapethings said:


> Kinematics is not my strong suit.
> 
> Regarding the cascade link and sag:
> 19mm/35% sag is recommended by Forbidden with the stock link, since the cascade link is lengthening travel by altering progression, does that 19mm sag number increase as well?
> ...


Cascade recommends around 30% sag, so 16.5 mm

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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

alan1 said:


> What size chainring is that and bike size.


Size large, standard XX1 chain, 126 links

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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

johnsogr said:


> Size large, standard XX1 chain, 126 links
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What size is the Chainring?
Cheers


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

alan1 said:


> What size is the Chainring?
> Cheers


34

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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

johnsogr said:


> 34
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cheers


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Had a terrible sound (constant creaking) coming from my suspension after a wet ride followed by a day of jumping with my son. Thought I’d done something to damage the bike but after 4 hours of hunting, assembly and disassembly 3 times, and replacing a couple crunchy bearings, it was the rate control linkage bolt that was slightly off full torque. Had to stick it in a vice and give it a little side to side force to find it. Cleaned, torqued and the sounds is gone. Hope to save you all some time if it happens to you.

FYI- if any of you are not getting along with your 2021 fox 36, I went to 160mm, 5 spacers, 80psi and I’m finally loving this fork. Was bottom out all the time and didn’t like the small bump compliance before. I’m 185lbs and on a large.

Cheers,


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

vanislemtbr said:


> 185lbs, 5-9" with 31.5" inseam. On the large Druid with 160mm fox 36, 35mm stem, and 185mm dropper (revive with .5" of available drop space). This bike fits me perfectly and is ideal for riding on southern Vancouver Island. Hitting all the double blacks in our riding areas on the southern island. I hit flow trails, jump lines, and really enjoy the older tech lines. The DPX2(2nd largest volume spacer installed) o-ring has found a permanent residency off the end but I've never felt a big bottom out. The Druid doesn't hold me back if I rode bigger terrain (10' plus drops and higher speed), I'd be tempted to go up to the dreadnought. Haven't even considered the upgrade for myself, but I don't live where you do
> Also, I love the way this bike climbs and I really enjoy that aspect of riding now that I'm in my 40s and injuries take longer to heal. It's not a fast climber, but it's so comfortable and the large frame helps keep the front wheel down. The slow tech climbs are where it shines. I can't comment on the climbing ability of the Dreadnought. I'm sure it would have similar characteristic with a small weight penalty. The Druid is no lightweight AM machine. It's 35lbs on my scale with DD rear tire and a tube in the frame.


Just curious about the volume spacer you're using in the DPX2. The kit comes with 5 spacers and on Fox's website it says not to use the 2 largest one's (Do not use-Cr Too High). So then there's really only 3 spacers to use which would be the purple 0.2" (in first year Druid's), grey 0.4" (in current year Druid's) and light blue 0.6". Which one are you using? Thanks!


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Kootenay rider said:


> Just curious about the volume spacer you're using in the DPX2. The kit comes with 5 spacers and on Fox's website it says not to use the 2 largest one's (Do not use-Cr Too High). So then there's really only 3 spacers to use which would be the purple 0.2" (in first year Druid's), grey 0.4" (in current year Druid's) and light blue 0.6". Which one are you using? Thanks!


I'm using the .86 on the basis that I have 165psi in the DPX2 (Likely going to drop this to 163 or so on the next ride, as I'm finding it harsh in the situation where I'm at moderate speed, in the air, and coming down into rough terrain. My rear tire tends to slap ground harder then I'd expect. I still think the compression tune could be lighter or we should just be all running coils). Anyway, I haven't worked out all the math on this but I'm assuming these are guidelines based on the max psi of 350psi. Hope I'm not missing something here.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

vanislemtbr said:


> I'm using the .86 on the basis that I have 165psi in the DPX2 (Likely going to drop this to 163 or so on the next ride, as I'm finding it harsh in the situation where I'm at moderate speed, in the air, and coming down into rough terrain. My rear tire tends to slap ground harder then I'd expect. I still think the compression tune could be lighter or we should just be all running coils). Anyway, I haven't worked out all the math on this but I'm assuming these are guidelines based on the max psi of 350psi. Hope I'm not missing something here.


Have a look at Fox's website and their warnings, it sounds like it could be bad due to the high compression ratio - I'm certainly not an expert on the matter though.








2002-2020 Air Volume Reduction (FLOAT, FLOAT X, FLOAT DPX2 and DHX Air Rear Shocks) | Bike Help Center | FOX







www.ridefox.com


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

vanislemtbr said:


> Had a terrible sound (constant creaking) coming from my suspension after a wet ride followed by a day of jumping with my son. Thought I'd done something to damage the bike but after 4 hours of hunting, assembly and disassembly 3 times, and replacing a couple crunchy bearings, it was the rate control linkage bolt that was slightly off full torque. Had to stick it in a vice and give it a little side to side force to find it. Cleaned, torqued and the sounds is gone. Hope to save you all some time if it happens to you.
> 
> FYI- if any of you are not getting along with your 2021 fox 36, I went to 160mm, 5 spacers, 80psi and I'm finally loving this fork. Was bottom out all the time and didn't like the small bump compliance before. I'm 185lbs and on a large.
> 
> Cheers,


I didn't start to love my fox 36 until after a lowers service. There's something about how fox ships these things out of the factory that makes them harsh to ride.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> I didn't start to love my fox 36 until after a lowers service. There's something about how fox ships these things out of the factory that makes them harsh to ride.


Yes, I found that helped also. I've read about others thinking all that "butter" being the issue.

Had the fork returned to Fox service in January. The damper replaced(compression adjustment stopped working) and lower serviced including all air side seals. When I replace the 150mm air shaft for the 160mm in April, I had to service the lowers while I was at it. The air side oil was nasty after a little over 2 months of riding (a lot of wet rides though). I'll likely replace the stantion seals before fall season. It's been a bit disappointing, but at least I don't have a CSU issue yet. My old Pike suffered from that issue and drove me crazy. I'm hard on bikes


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Considering I've had a 36 on my switchblade for several years without any service that gives me something to look forward to! 

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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

vanislemtbr said:


> I'm using the .86 on the basis that I have 165psi in the DPX2 (Likely going to drop this to 163 or so on the next ride, as I'm finding it harsh in the situation where I'm at moderate speed, in the air, and coming down into rough terrain. My rear tire tends to slap ground harder then I'd expect. I still think the compression tune could be lighter or we should just be all running coils). Anyway, I haven't worked out all the math on this but I'm assuming these are guidelines based on the max psi of 350psi. Hope I'm not missing something here.


6'1", 215lbs before breakfast tacos, XL Druid. Went straight from the .2 to the .6 spacer w 260psi. i wasn't in search of more ramp up to prevent bottom out, even though my sag indicator signaled that i was bottoming out. i was in pursuit restoring some playfulness to the bike...the XL has a super long CS, that only gets longer with the rearward axle path as the suspension cycles. additionally, with the longer CS, the rider has greater leverage over the shock when manualing. i got what i was after: the rear is a bit more lively...i tuned out two clicks of rebound. it pumps and manuals more efficiently. it did give up some plushness, but no longer feels dead. bike "feels" more efficient when going up...don't reach for the lever, just leave it in descend mode. also "feels" like it accelerates with more authority. I put those two in quotes because they are completely subjective and may just be placebo.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> 6'1", 215lbs before breakfast tacos, XL Druid. Went straight from the .2 to the .6 spacer w 260psi. i wasn't in search of more ramp up to prevent bottom out, even though my sag indicator signaled that i was bottoming out. i was in pursuit restoring some playfulness to the bike...the XL has a super long CS, that only gets longer with the rearward axle path as the suspension cycles. additionally, with the longer CS, the rider has greater leverage over the shock when manualing. i got what i was after: the rear is a bit more lively...i tuned out two clicks of rebound. it pumps and manuals more efficiently. it did give up some plushness, but no longer feels dead. bike "feels" more efficient when going up...don't reach for the lever, just leave it in descend mode. also "feels" like it accelerates with more authority. I put those two in quotes because they are completely subjective and may just be placebo.


Thanks for the response. Cool to see how everyone is setting things up. I like poppy and responsive suspension, but don't want to compromise tracking and control. 260psi! You made me go back and check my sag. haha. So if I gear up, I'm 193lbs(after dinner) and then I have some equipment on the bike that's around 3-4 lbs. Therefore a riding weight of 197lbs. 165psi gives me 17mm of sag. 19mm is recommended, so I'm guessing 260psi is going to be one lively ride down the trail. I used to ride a hard tail and do more trials style mtbing riding in the late 90s, so can appriecate the want to avoid the full squish. Cheers


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Not sure if this has been shared here but I just got these in the mail today.

OneUp inline pump mount and a motofoam kit (bracket and foam) from Jank Components in Bellingham. Really glad to have stumbled across them as I never liked the side mount for the pump.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Damn good looks. Def gonna get one of those foam holders and maybe that pump mount


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I didn't start to love my fox 36 until after a lowers service. There's something about how fox ships these things out of the factory that makes them harsh to ride.


I loved mine after I added a Secus and then upped to 160 recently. No complaints anymore. Rails corners, doesn't dive into blown out sections anywhere close to as bad as without the upgrades. I just flow through everything so much better. My PRs are also huge gaps of improvement over previous on trails I haven't ridden with upgrades.

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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

vanislemtbr said:


> 260psi!


correction....225 PSI. Had to go back and check my notes.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

So I’ve ridden my Druid just over 100 miles and noticed after my last ride that there was a ton of grease on the outside of the idler pulley. I removed the chain and the idler pulley feels awful, with some ability to make it “wobble.” I’ve ordered another, but has anyone had the idler fail that quickly? I’m not putting out that much power…


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

Any Cascade link owners have thoughts on performance differences ? Worth the $ ?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

ADING said:


> Any Cascade link owners have thoughts on performance differences ? Worth the $ ?


I think it is, love it with both 11-6 & DPX2. That said, I'd wait for V2 if you want to use with coil other than 11-6

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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> So I've ridden my Druid just over 100 miles and noticed after my last ride that there was a ton of grease on the outside of the idler pulley. I removed the chain and the idler pulley feels awful, with some ability to make it "wobble." I've ordered another, but has anyone had the idler fail that quickly? I'm not putting out that much power&#8230;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Every time I pack it up with grease between the hardware and the pulley it will do this. I just wipe it off, check the torque, and keep going. The pulley likes to move a little (1mm of movement) and forces the grease out. It think you'd find that the bearing grease is still in there and fine. I had 750km on my first pulley and at 500km on my second so far. Both have had a little play. Replaced the first due to the amount of wear in the teeth and the second is looking okay. Broke a tooth off when I snapped a chain, but it's been fine.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> I think it is, love it with both 11-6 & DPX2. That said, I'd wait for V2 if you want to use with coil other than 11-6
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think it's only the current Gen 11-6 that fits. Check posts above because I think I read that somewhere.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

vanislemtbr said:


> I think it's only the current Gen 11-6 that fits. Check posts above because I think I read that somewhere.


Yea I have the 11-6R

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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

johnsogr said:


> So I've ridden my Druid just over 100 miles and noticed after my last ride that there was a ton of grease on the outside of the idler pulley. I removed the chain and the idler pulley feels awful, with some ability to make it "wobble." I've ordered another, but has anyone had the idler fail that quickly? I'm not putting out that much power&#8230;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, as others have said the grease does come out yet there should be grease left behind the covers and on the bearing. There is also a tiny bit of play. Not much though.

My first idler pulley was shot and replaced at 650kms. That had lots of play and the teeth were very worn. The replacement is now at an equal distance and looks in a lot better shape.

I must admit, I've started to regularly strip down, clean and re-lube the idler after the wear and failure of the first one. Perhaps once a month. The same is said of the linkage. Along with checking the associated frame bearings.

The bike is so well engineered it's easy to work on and it takes no time at all to do.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Yea I have the 11-6R
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, I have 11-6R as well with the link. Fits, but I did Dremel extra room just to be sure. Been working like a charm. Awesome performance.

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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

I make foam holders also if anyone is interested.

comes with foam, holder, 2 velcro dots, and clear frame protector.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

Energ8t said:


> Yes, I have 11-6R as well with the link. Fits, but I did Dremel extra room just to be sure. Been working like a charm. Awesome performance.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 can you post pictures of your fitment?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I tried to take pics, but it’s too tight. Without dremeling, I can see the smallest of gaps between spring collar and link, and the shock mounts up just fine (don’t have to compress it)


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Sorry everyone, I tried to search the thread, but it's enormous - what adhesive should I use to fix my flapping chainstay protector? Thanks for the help!


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

johnsogr said:


> Sorry everyone, I tried to search the thread, but it's enormous - what adhesive should I use to fix my flapping chainstay protector? Thanks for the help!


3M VHB









Amazon.com: 3M 1/2-5-RP32 VHB Tape 0.5 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll),Gray: Home Improvement


Buy 3M 1/2-5-RP32 VHB Tape 0.5 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll), Gray: Mounting Tape - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Thank you!


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Looks like I got one of the overly thick swingarm paint jobs 
After some nasty creaking and clicking noises, I took the back-end apart to see what was what.
Tons of wear on the spacer, and paint wearing down on the mating surface on the swingarm. To be honest, I am kinda relieved. It's a simple fix. Worst case scenario is a bit of sanding with a nice flat block.
Anybody who has had this, did it resolve nicely?


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> Sorry everyone, I tried to search the thread, but it's enormous - what adhesive should I use to fix my flapping chainstay protector? Thanks for the help!


You can try all the vhb tape you want but it will never bond to the rubber no matter how much you clean it and prep it. Eventually water will get the best of the bond. I've tried numerous methods and the only surefire way to keep it on the frame was zip ties.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Darkstar187 said:


> can you post pictures of your fitment?


Sorry for the delay, busy week.
It's hard to get pics of clearance with everything installed. What I did was remove my shock and link to check for potential contact points between coil, ring and link. I then Dremeled some extra clearance, which wasn't much. Not everyone with same setup will have the same tolerances or clearance. I just was playing safe since clearance was so tight. I do think the extra room helps.

Really love this link. I'm jamming through rougher terrain at higher pace and control. For those waiting for the V2 link, it's worth it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Looks like I got one of the overly thick swingarm paint jobs
> After some nasty creaking and clicking noises, I took the back-end apart to see what was what.
> Tons of wear on the spacer, and paint wearing down on the mating surface on the swingarm. To be honest, I am kinda relieved. It's a simple fix. Worst case scenario is a bit of sanding with a nice flat block.
> Anybody who has had this, did it resolve nicely?
> ...


I would hit up forbidden they have a solution for this. I had the same issue on my second ride. I have not had an issue since getting the new washers.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Darkstar187 said:


> I would hit up forbidden they have a solution for this. I had the same issue on my second ride. I have not had an issue since getting the new washers.


I emailed forbidden and they sent me two new sets of spacers, one for the lower swingarm link and one for the control link.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> I emailed forbidden and they sent me two new sets of spacers, one for the lower swingarm link and one for the control link.


I think this is the best route. I did the sanding thing, which was fine, but took some iterations to get noise free. The dust shield part of the washer doesn't seem to do much anyway, and they essentially removed it for the new spacers.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

hbar said:


> I think this is the best route. I did the sanding thing, which was fine, but took some iterations to get noise free. The dust shield part of the washer doesn't seem to do much anyway, and they essentially removed it for the new spacers.


Interesting; I didn't know that. I agree it doesn't do much, and might even harm. That tight tolerance shield just traps junk between the frame and the spacer, and acts as grinding compound. I guess the problem will solve itself eventually (sanding it).


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

EXT Friends:

Increasing HSC (turning clockwise) increases bottom out resistance right? I'm not sure what this is confusing to me...


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

phazedalx said:


> EXT Friends:
> 
> Increasing HSC (turning clockwise) increases bottom out resistance right? I'm not sure what this is confusing to me...


I thought the ext has hydraulic bottom out resistance?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

phazedalx said:


> EXT Friends:
> 
> Increasing HSC (turning clockwise) increases bottom out resistance right? I'm not sure what this is confusing to me...


Yes, are you on the Storia? Storia has built in hydraulic bottom out, but it's not adjustable (as opposed to the Arma). Increasing HSC clockwise will make it more difficult to bottom out, but not in the sense that the hydraulic bottom out feature does that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

johnsogr said:


> Yes, are you on the Storia? Storia has built in hydraulic bottom out, but it's not adjustable (as opposed to the Arma). Increasing HSC clockwise will make it more difficult to bottom out, but not in the sense that the hydraulic bottom out feature does that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok great, and yeah sorry bottom out was the wrong word. HSC is the one setting I still struggle with on everything


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Darkstar187 said:


> I would hit up forbidden they have a solution for this. I had the same issue on my second ride. I have not had an issue since getting the new washers.


Done, and done. They were super responsive and are sending me replacement washers. Woot!


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Have 150 miles so far on my Druid and it's developing various creaks. I want to tear everything down, clean, and lube it, but what do you all suggest for lubes? I'm specifically curious about the lowest friction lube for the idler pulley. Here are the few I'm looking at:

Motorex White Grease
ParkTool HPG-1 High Performance Grease
ProGold EPX Grease
Phil Wood Waterproof Grease
MucOff BioGrease
As always, thanks for the advice.


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## Darkstar187 (Sep 6, 2010)

johnsogr said:


> Have 150 miles so far on my Druid and it's developing various creaks. I want to tear everything down, clean, and lube it, but what do you all suggest for lubes? I'm specifically curious about the lowest friction lube for the idler pulley. Here are the few I'm looking at:
> 
> Motorex White Grease
> ParkTool HPG-1 High Performance Grease
> ...





https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-80916-Waterproof-Grease-Bottle/dp/B000WK8VV8/ref=asc_df_B000WK8VV8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312151168520&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4536189606563861062&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032443&hvtargid=pla-593419161314&psc=1



I love this stuff! I would check all the big parts, BB and those pesky washer would be the 2 first things i would check.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

I use wpl white grease on the pivot bolts and pack the idler with phil wood grease. I dont really thing the grease is gonna give you noticable drag.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

johnsogr said:


> Have 150 miles so far on my Druid and it's developing various creaks. I want to tear everything down, clean, and lube it, but what do you all suggest for lubes? I'm specifically curious about the lowest friction lube for the idler pulley. Here are the few I'm looking at:
> 
> Motorex White Grease
> ParkTool HPG-1 High Performance Grease
> ...


You might need new spacers. Check 25 and 28 in the Druid blowup pdf. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/6816/6464/files/Druid_Exploded_View_V3.0.pdf?v=1616175175

Check to see if any paint is missing or the spacers are losing their anodizing. Email forbidden if so. They're really good about sending out revised spacers.


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## Milo902 (Dec 4, 2011)

If anyone is interested in trading from a small druid up to a medium, or has a small frame or complete build for sale, let me know!

I'm currently on medium druid (blue steel, SLX build) and coming to the realization it's just too big for me. I love the bike, but I think a small is just a better fit. Given it's difficult to find a new frame, maybe someone out there has the opposite problem. I'd be down to swap just the frame or the full build. It's in very good condition, bought new from Forbidden last fall. I'm in VA but obviously could ship.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Milo902 said:


> If anyone is interested in trading from a small druid up to a medium, or has a small frame or complete build for sale, let me know!
> 
> I'm currently on medium druid (blue steel, SLX build) and coming to the realization it's just too big for me. I love the bike, but I think a small is just a better fit. Given it's difficult to find a new frame, maybe someone out there has the opposite problem. I'd be down to swap just the frame or the full build. It's in very good condition, bought new from Forbidden last fall. I'm in VA but obviously could ship.


I can't help you with a swap, but I am curious as to how tall you are?


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## Milo902 (Dec 4, 2011)

dubthang said:


> I can't help you with a swap, but I am curious as to how tall you are?


5'6" ish. Right on the line. I justified a medium based on similar reach numbers to other bike manufacturers bikes where I was in the middle of the size range.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Anyone running that MRP guide instead of the E13 one that comes on the bike. Have gotten some crazy chain drops on it and wondering if there is a trick to it or if I should just go back to the E13 which I find rather fragile. Size Large mullet btw


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

phazedalx said:


> Anyone running that MRP guide instead of the E13 one that comes on the bike. Have gotten some crazy chain drops on it and wondering if there is a trick to it or if I should just go back to the E13 which I find rather fragile. Size Large mullet btw


Not apples to apples, but I have run both on previous bikes and much prefer the MRP unit to the E13 unit...so much so that I have one in transit for my Druid. It does reduce chain wrap, which some speculate as a problem with an idler setup. However, several folks that are going guideless on both Druids and Dreads, and the Deviates don't employ a guide, either.

Interestingly, I have never dropped a chain off the chainring....but I have dropped it off the idler in addition to having it get out of synch with the narrow wide on the idler.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

has me wondering if I should take a link out. Size Large with a 30T oval...126 links as recommended.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I do think they’re recommended chain length is a touch long


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just checking in after having checked out for a while.

A few random comments...

Re chain length...I'm running a 30 tooth ring, and a Next R/X01 12 speed Eagle drivetrain on a large, first production run frame - I am now using only 1 full chain, with great success. No added links.

On the chain issue, much to my surprise, after a thorough cleaning of the drive train in February before the start of this season, I had skipping and ghost shifting galore, especially in gears 1 to 3. Before the cleaning, at the end of last season, it was functioning fine. I ended up replacing the XX1 chain with a new XX1 chain (1 full chain only with no additional links) and things were instantly fixed.

I was really expecting to get a much longer life than one season out of that XX1, given all the hoopla about how it lasts forever. It certainly didn't for me. I rode my hardtail lots too last year, and other bikes through fall and winter, so the Druid actually had what I would consider to be moderate mileage on the drivetrain. That chain had lost all its side to side integrity or rigidity, if that makes sense. I could bend it LOTS from side to side, compared to the fresh chain. Bizarre. Never had that happen with any other bike/drivetrain/chain.

My E*13 roller on the bottom guide needs replacing again. That will make #3. That's been a really weak link for me. I may remove the guide entirely. I rode it hard, guide-free, for a week last year and had zero chain drops. Forbidden told me it's required not for chain drops, but for minimum amount of chain wrap on the ring. I don't buy it. Not for me at least. It was 100% fine without it. If I chew through rings, whatever.

My new tires almost killed me on the climbs. Double Down 2.5 Assegai MaxxGripp and DD 2.4 DHR 2 MaxxTerra, front and rear. On top of riding outdoors, I had Zwifted heavily for last 5 months (sorry for the humble bragging, to the extent that constitutes humble bragging). I thought I was top of game and was shocked how tough I found climbing with the new rubber (same comment again re the humble bragging). I have things in hand now, after riding a crap load since installing them (again), but I bet if I were to go back to lighter tires right now (even non DD Minions), I would up my game big time (again). I question whether I am using all that rubber on the downs. I'm almost certainly over-tired for the riding I do. That said, I MUCH prefer the Assguy over the DHF. No wash out issues at all with the Assguy. It's been incredible on the downs (although, again, it almost sucked the soul out of me on the climbs for the first few rides).

Push 11-6 gen 1 shock - Push and SuspensionWerx insisted I needed a 450 spring for my 185 lb body. I since installed a 425 spring and it is MUCH MUCH MUCH better in every single regard. Just like I hoped it would be. Climb mode is incredible, and the down mode is even better. 10/10 now. 7/10 with the original spring.

That's it for now. Hope you guys are ripping it up.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I swapped out my dhr and now I'm running assegai exo with Cush cores and I love the added traction.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

PS - not touching my 2019 36 GRIP2 with Luftkappe. I'm all for a Smashpot or Secus if I thought it would improve things, but no way. Not touching it.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Yeah exo or exo+ with cushcore is my jam


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Just checking in after having checked out for a while.
> 
> A few random comments...
> 
> ...


What kind of soil/terrain do you ride? I have found the DHR 2.4 to be one of the suckiest tyres ever in sandy soil and/or loose over hard...soul sapping bastard of a tyre lol the 2.3 DHR is a much easier tyre to pedal with not much if any penalty on grip.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

springs said:


> What kind of soil/terrain do you ride? I have found the DHR 2.4 to be one of the suckiest tyres ever in sandy soil and/or loose over hard...soul sapping bastard of a tyre lol the 2.3 DHR is a much easier tyre to pedal with not much if any penalty on grip.


That's really interesting. I noticed the same thing but never attributed it to jumping from the 2.3 to the 2.4 DHR 2.

I have been running Minions almost non-stop since 2015. When I switched my DHR 2 from a 2.3 to a 2.4 and felt a noticeable decrease in speed, I posted here. Various suggested explanations were given, but not yours. It's consistent with my experience. Thanks.

I am running a 2.5 DHF/Aggressor on my hardtail and love it. Riding here can be almost desert like. Usually silty dry with plenty of root and rock.

I wonder whether I should try a 2.3 DHR 2, or maybe an Aggressor or Dissector on the rear...

Not changing the Assguy though on the front. That's my new front tire of choice.

Anyway, thanks tons.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

After putting almost 100 miles on my Druid I'm really enjoying it. The first couple rides were less than great, but with some moments of greatness. I swapped all my parts from a Commencal Meta AM 29, 160mm rear 170mm front. I'm on a pretty basic but solid build, XL frameset, Lyrik RC2 at 150mm 51mm offset, GX Eagle drivetrain, Code R brakes with 200mm rotors, Hope Pro 4 hubs on WTB KOM Tough hoops with 2.4 DHRII rear and Assegai 2.5 front, both with EXO+ casings. On the first couple rides it didn't feel great, the shock was really harsh, not sure the chambers were properly equalized, I played with pressure between 205-220psi with Forbidden setting on compression and rebound, I've settled on 220psi at this point. I had ridden the fork for 2 seasons, but I changed it from 170mm to 150mm and also did the upgraded air spring, so it was very different feeling. After a couple rides and playing with fork tokens and pressures I'm starting to feel like the suspension is very good, front and rear. 

I don't feel at this point like I'm lacking in bike coming from the Meta AM, I feel for 90% of my riding it was too much bike. I think the Druid will be great for 90% and maybe a bit lacking for 10%. I felt quiet comfortable with the handling right away and noticed how well it corners in the first couple rides, even with the suspension not set up well. On easier trails it is a much easier bike to ride and have fun on than the Meta, I find myself popping off lots of side hits, roots and rocks. On more difficult descents I feel like it's easier for me to ride fast. On the Meta I had to work, if I was fatigued I knew it descending and climbing, the Druid is quite a bit easier to ride. I've already set some PRs and close to PRs descending, it definitely wants to go fast on the downs. I would say climbing wise it's ok. I certainly don't think it's a fast climbing 130mm bike, but I wasn't expecting it to be. I would rather have a bike that's a more competent descender at this travel anyway. In comparison to the the Meta, which was over 36lbs the Druid is about 33.5lbs, it feels like it's climbing faster. The Meta felt like it took a lot of energy to climb on and it rolled very slowly. The Druid feels like it rolls faster and takes less energy. That being said my climbing times are pretty similar Climbing traction does seem to be very good too.

After my first 100 miles I'm very pleased with the Druid coming from a big enduro bike for a couple season. I've found the Druid immediately comfortable to ride up and down. I haven't had any real struggles getting used to the high pivot, there have been a few times while trying to pull the front end up that have been a little awkward, but overall it was easy to get on and ride. I was a little hesitant buying it, I had never even seen one in person, but I don't have any regrets having gotten one.


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That's really interesting. I noticed the same thing but never attributed it to jumping from the 2.3 to the 2.4 DHR 2.
> 
> I have been running Minions almost non-stop since 2015. When I switched my DHR 2 from a 2.3 to a 2.4 and felt a noticeable decrease in speed, I posted here. Various suggested explanations were given, but not yours. It's consistent with my experience. Thanks.
> 
> ...


Dissector rolls way better but is a substantial drop in grip compared to a DHR imo. Biggest weakness of the Dissector is braking whilst leaning over...seems to let go without warning whereas the DHR just digs in and gives ample warning signs when about to lose grip.

I would try the 2.3 DHR


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Regarding chain retention, I never had any issues with that on my Druid, it’s been rock solid without fail for 2 seasons now. However, I always felt the lower e13 guide may contribute quite a bit additional drag/friction, so replaced it recently with the MRP SXG 2-bolt, which is in essence a bash guard with integrated frictionless chain guide (it does not provide additional chainring wrap). Works great so far, though I am not sure the lower guide is really needed. Positive side effect is you can run slightly shorter chain if that were an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

fizzywater said:


> Regarding chain retention, I never had any issues with that on my Druid, it's been rock solid without fail for 2 seasons now. However, I always felt the lower e13 guide may contribute quite a bit additional drag/friction, so replaced it recently with the MRP SXG 2-bolt, which is in essence a bash guard with integrated frictionless chain guide (it does not provide additional chainring wrap). Works great so far, though I am not sure the lower guide is really needed. Positive side effect is you can run slightly shorter chain if that were an issue.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's a nice looking guide. That, with a steel chainring (to handle the possible higher load per tooth) is something I might like to try. On the other hand, i'm pretty sure I don't pedal hard enough to worry about load per tooth


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

hbar said:


> That's a nice looking guide. That, with a steel chainring (to handle the possible higher load per tooth) is something I might like to try. On the other hand, i'm pretty sure I don't pedal hard enough to worry about load per tooth


I don't run a chain retention guide, never had an issue. I run a 30T aluminum chainring that has 1200km and 54000m on it and it has about 10% wear (I weigh 210lbs). All my other bikes would show wear after a week of riding, so surprisingly the Druid doesn't chew through chainrings.


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## Kootenay rider (Oct 25, 2005)

Dang you guys are lucky with no lower guide! I tried it out before and lasted a few rides before losing the chain (off the bottom end of the chainring) on descending and climbing! Chain wasn't stretched and that's with a Large frame, 126 link chain and 30T chainring (Sram). It was much nicer without when pedaling - might have to try it out again.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Kootenay rider said:


> Dang you guys are lucky with no lower guide! I tried it out before and lasted a few rides before losing the chain (off the bottom end of the chainring) on descending and climbing! Chain wasn't stretched and that's with a Large frame, 126 link chain and 30T chainring (Sram). It was much nicer without when pedaling - might have to try it out again.


I had a 126 chain on a 34 without issue - perhaps shorten the chain by 4 links and try again?

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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

ADING said:


> I don't run a chain retention guide, never had an issue. I run a 30T aluminum chainring that has 1200km and 54000m on it and it has about 10% wear (I weigh 210lbs). All my other bikes would show wear after a week of riding, so surprisingly the Druid doesn't chew through chainrings.


 It makes sense that it wouldn't wear chain rings. The chain is always in line with the ring, there is never any angle like with a traditional 1X setup.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Using 1 chain with no extra links is going to destroy the lower guide roller within a few more rides. It’s already getting chewed up and getting noisy. When that happens, I’m going to remove it for a while and see how it goes. I have a couple of extra rollers on hand but screw it.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ALS650L said:


> It makes sense that it wouldn't wear chain rings. The chain is always in line with the ring, there is never any angle like with a traditional 1X setup.


Yep, true. After less than a year I had to replace the idler because it was really worn down between the teeth. So most of the wear seems to be happening there. Makes sense too based on the position and torque being applied from all the climbing I do. Chain ring looks perfectly fine.

I am reluctant to remove the idler with such low percentage of teeth being contacted while riding. I guess I don't really care as much about the resistance it gives. That said, this two chain thing is a real PITA. I don't really feel like dropping $90 on my next chain purchase. Regardless if the extra chain is enough to last for the foreseeable future's extra links. It's an annoying spend.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Kootenay rider said:


> Dang you guys are lucky with no lower guide! I tried it out before and lasted a few rides before losing the chain (off the bottom end of the chainring) on descending and climbing! Chain wasn't stretched and that's with a Large frame, 126 link chain and 30T chainring (Sram). It was much nicer without when pedaling - might have to try it out again.


What brand chainring are you using? Over the years I found that Raceface chainrings have soso chain retention, but I never dropped a chain with Sram, Chromag or OneUp chainrings. Granted, that's just my anecdotal experience.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Anybody got any experience in replacing the bearings on a Druid?

My bike is exactly 10 months old with 1500 kms on the clock. The lower linkage bearings in the swingarm and frame (6902 LLU) are almost finished. As are the linkage bearings themselves (3802 LLU). The main pivot bearings (6904 LLU) don't feel too bad but sound gritty so they may as well be replaced as also.

Although not all bearings are available via Forbidden in the UK.

I also need to replace the idler pulley...again. So generally that's approx. 750kms per pulley.

Again, the idler pulley is out of stock at present in the UK.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Any Druid owners have similar wear, usage and longevity experiences?

I love the bike, I love the way it rides and to complement this I love the way it's engineered and therefore is easy to work on. Yet I seem to have to perform idler pulley maintenance once a month and linkage maintenance every two, if not three months.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Any Druid owners have similar wear, usage and longevity experiences?
> 
> I love the bike, I love the way it rides and to complement this I love the way it's engineered and therefore is easy to work on. Yet I seem to have to perform idler pulley maintenance once a month and linkage maintenance every two, if not three months.


I'd say your experience mirrors mine in most ways. However, my linkage bearings show no signs of where. I'm at 1500km and on my second set of main and swing arm bearings. The bearings with no contamination seem fine, so l don't think bearing replacement is due to loads but more related to the elements(ie. wet conditions). Bike washing and wet winter riding has taken a toll on them. I've now cleaned them all out and used a waterproof grease to see if that improves things. I've also stop washing my bike.
It would seem that Idler pulley and chain maintenance is high. Buy a good chain/s and maybe get a 30t ring to try and ride more often in middle gears of the cassette (helps chainline and therefore the idler will be happier). I recently went to an SLX cassette to get more steal gears. Hoping to get 1500 to 2000km off this drive train. I'm just going to ride the idler to death and see if there are any negatives in letting it wear down.
Still loving this bike and looking forward to every ride.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

vanislemtbr said:


> I'd say your experience mirrors mine in most ways. However, my linkage bearings show no signs of where. I'm at 1500km and on my second set of main and swing arm bearings. The bearings with no contamination seem fine, so l don't think bearing replacement is due to loads but more related to the elements(ie. wet conditions). Bike washing and wet winter riding has taken a toll on them. I've now cleaned them all out and used a waterproof grease to see if that improves things. I've also stop washing my bike.
> It would seem that Idler pulley and chain maintenance is high. Buy a good chain/s and maybe get a 30t ring to try and ride more often in middle gears of the cassette (helps chainline and therefore the idler will be happier). I recently went to an SLX cassette to get more steal gears. Hoping to get 1500 to 2000km off this drive train. I'm just going to ride the idler to death and see if there are any negatives in letting it wear down.
> Still loving this bike and looking forward to every ride.


Thanks for the response vanislemtbr. I'm glad someone else is having the same experience and acknowledges the high levels of maintenance required to keep the Druid running sweet.

I agree. I don't think the bearings have failed from load but from exposure to the elements and washing the elements off. I just think it's a little strange as previous bikes have not needed replacement bearings so quickly. Although previous bikes may have been spared more winter riding than the Druid. Did you change the bearings yourself?

In regards to the idler, I let the first one wear out completely. To be honest it wore down quicker than the second which is on an equivalent distance. Plus the first started to exhibit play. Although it never dropped a chain. The current idler although showing wear spins very freely with speed. The maxima waterproof grease I pack it with once a month slows it down.


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Any Druid owners have similar wear, usage and longevity experiences?
> 
> I love the bike, I love the way it rides and to complement this I love the way it's engineered and therefore is easy to work on. Yet I seem to have to perform idler pulley maintenance once a month and linkage maintenance every two, if not three months.


I have found that I have gotten quite a bit of life out of the idler pully. I just replaced it 1200km only because I replaced the chain, and the teeth looked fine the groves were just deeper, so it might have been fine still. I do clean the chain, chainring & jockey wheels every ride with a rag and air compressor, so that may help.
The linkage I pull apart and clean once a month and grease if necessary and its been flawless.
On a side note, go to your LBS and ask for the extra chain links that they cut when replacing a chain, they typically cut 4 - 6 links which is more than enough.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Any Druid owners have similar wear, usage and longevity experiences?
> 
> I love the bike, I love the way it rides and to complement this I love the way it's engineered and therefore is easy to work on. Yet I seem to have to perform idler pulley maintenance once a month and linkage maintenance every two, if not three months.


I replaced my idler after ~100km because the original didn't work well with Shimano 12sp chains. I've got ~1000km on the replacement idler with no signs of skipping. I have accidentally run branches and such through the upper guide so that it's kind of bent, but it still works as intended. I pulled the idler off once or twice, but the bearing has been fine. Some grass got jammed in behind it, but once I had that cleaned out it was smooth. I'm seriously looking at removing the lower guide again. I had it off for a while but forgot to shorten the chain so it skipped; I'll take more time to get the proper setup on the next go round. 
As for the bearings, I've got no play and no grinding. About 25% of my rides are wet, and I don't wash the bike that often, primarily cleaning the drivetrain when needed and knocking the big chunks of mud off after they've dried. It helps that I don't slap berms very much and I'm only 170lbs geared up. 90+% of my riding is winch-and-plummet on singletrack.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Anybody try an lower guide that is a jockey wheel instead of a block? Something like how the MRP guides work.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Any Druid owners have similar wear, usage and longevity experiences?
> 
> I love the bike, I love the way it rides and to complement this I love the way it's engineered and therefore is easy to work on. Yet I seem to have to perform idler pulley maintenance once a month and linkage maintenance every two, if not three months.


I also love how easy it is to work on, but mine also develops a creak/grind in the linkage after a month or so, so it's fortunate that it is easy to work on. It's a click/creak that you can hear off the top, particularly when pedaling (super annoying sound). In my case, I tracked it down to the "main" pivot in the linkage--the one connecting it to the frame--perhaps due to dirt/junk getting behind the dust shields on the inside and outside of the frame pivots, maybe due to a poor tolerance on the shields.

Once cleaned, it's silent again, and the bearing themselves are smooth. I pull their rubber dust covers, inspect, and re-lube them every so often. I also don't wash it much, because when I did it seemed like I had to do maintenance more often. The only actual added cost (other than time) is the large bottle of threadlocker I bought, since you have to take lots of the axles out to get to the pivot of interest.

The maintenance is easy, but I'm used to doing suspension pivot cleaning 1 to 2 times a year at most (coming from an older Santa Cruz, or an even older Specialized), so the frequency I have to do it is a little disappointing. I'd hope that the next version will have better/different seals, or better tolerances.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Thanks for the response vanislemtbr. I'm glad someone else is having the same experience and acknowledges the high levels of maintenance required to keep the Druid running sweet.
> 
> I agree. I don't think the bearings have failed from load but from exposure to the elements and washing the elements off. I just think it's a little strange as previous bikes have not needed replacement bearings so quickly. Although previous bikes may have been spared more winter riding than the Druid. Did you change the bearings yourself?
> 
> In regards to the idler, I let the first one wear out completely. To be honest it wore down quicker than the second which is on an equivalent distance. Plus the first started to exhibit play. Although it never dropped a chain. The current idler although showing wear spins very freely with speed. The maxima waterproof grease I pack it with once a month slows it down.


It's good to share and understand that this maintenance level is not unique. Regarding the bearing replacement, yes I've done all the work on my bikes for the last 8years or so. Hoping to learn the art of wheel building this winter. As for the lower chain guide, I've never replaced the roller. It's got groves in it, but still does the job well. I have learned to lube the chain off the roller because it will start making some weird chirping noise if covered in oil. 
I love a this quiet bike.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

vanislemtbr said:


> It's good to share and understand that this maintenance level is not unique. Regarding the bearing replacement, yes I've done all the work on my bikes for the last 8years or so. Hoping to learn the art of wheel building this winter. As for the lower chain guide, I've never replaced the roller. It's got groves in it, but still does the job well. I have learned to lube the chain off the roller because it will start making some weird chirping noise if covered in oil.
> I love a this quiet bike.


Ahh cool. Yes I'm trying to do the same. Was the replacement of the bearings difficult to do? I've never done it before but seeing as the Druid is easy to work on I'm tempted to give it a go. Although the main pivot and lower linkage bearings are now out of stock with Forbidden in the UK apart from the 3802 linkage bearings. Speaking of which these look the most tricky to do. What bear press-puller did you use or recommend? Thanks.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> It's good to share and understand that this maintenance level is not unique. Regarding the bearing replacement, yes I've done all the work on my bikes for the last 8years or so. Hoping to learn the art of wheel building this winter. As for the lower chain guide, I've never replaced the roller. It's got groves in it, but still does the job well. I have learned to lube the chain off the roller because it will start making some weird chirping noise if covered in oil.
> I love a this quiet bike.


I'm going onto my third lower guide roller shortly as this one is now getting chewed up. I am pretty meticulous with the drivetrain. I wonder whether using one chain with no extra links this year (large frame, 30 tooth, Eagle X01) has contributed to early wear on this roller...

This is the third full season on my Druid. It used to be very quiet. It's kinda creaking and has annoying clicking now when I climb. I suspect the linkage bearings need replacing, given that I'm on my third idler, and going on my third lower guide roller, yet no maintenance on the linkage bearings (except that I went to the V2 link early on).

This bike has required far more drivetrain maintenance than prior bikes - my last 2 were Owen Pemberton creations - a 2015 Range and a 2018 Sight. They were both Horst link designs that required little maintenance. Prior Konas (all faux bar) were basically bulletproof despite ridiculous mileage.

The Druid has been a pretty delicate, exotic machine for me. Best bike I have ever owned by far, but I now think I know how the Ferrari owners feel.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Ahh cool. Yes I'm trying to do the same. Was the replacement of the bearings difficult to do? I've never done it before but seeing as the Druid is easy to work on I'm tempted to give it a go. Although the main pivot and lower linkage bearings are now out of stock with Forbidden in the UK apart from the 3802 linkage bearings. Speaking of which these look the most tricky to do. What bear press-puller did you use or recommend? Thanks.


Here's the tool I use and it works well. 








8MILELAKE 9pc Blind Inner Internal Bearing Puller Slide Hammer Set, Puller Sets - Amazon Canada


8MILELAKE 9pc Blind Inner Internal Bearing Puller Slide Hammer Set in Puller Sets.



www.amazon.ca





Just need to support the frame and swing arm as you extract the bearings. I like to have a second set of hands for that, but you can do it on your own with the pieces on a padded floor. Just take your time with it as it can take a half a dozen impacts to get it out.
For insertion, I typical use a threaded rod, 1/2" sockets, and washers. You can also get and bearing press and extraction kits, which make it super easy.
For bearings, my next set will likely be an eBay purchase from China. They are cheap and I'm tempted to just give them a shot.

i


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm going onto my third lower guide roller shortly as this one is now getting chewed up. I am pretty meticulous with the drivetrain. I wonder whether using one chain with no extra links this year (large frame, 30 tooth, Eagle X01) has contributed to early wear on this roller...
> 
> This is the third full season on my Druid. It used to be very quiet. It's kinda creaking and has annoying clicking now when I climb. I suspect the linkage bearings need replacing, given that I'm on my third idler, and going on my third lower guide roller, yet no maintenance on the linkage bearings (except that I went to the V2 link early on).
> 
> ...


I had an annoying creak in the linkage. Try checking the torque in the linkage bolt. I've talked to other riders with this issue too. Loctite blue is your friend.
I charge pretty hard on this bike, so I can't say it's delicate. I get your point though and agree this bike rewards those that can keep it tuned. I didn't sign up for this, but I'm enjoying the process of being the the Ferrari mechanic and the driver.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Hey guys. Sorry to raise this again.

I am running a 50 stem and a 25 rise bar (at 800). Thinking of trying a 35 stem and 35 rise bar (at 800), out of curiosity.

Just wondering what stem length and bar rise you are running, and if you are considering experimenting with it.

Thanks.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I’m 5’10” and run a 40 mm stem with 30mm rise bars (780 mm). Honestly I wish the bike had a longer reach, but I’m not going to go with a longer stem.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Should have notes I’m on a large


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## ADING (Jan 25, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Hey guys. Sorry to raise this again.
> 
> I am running a 50 stem and a 25 rise bar (at 800). Thinking of trying a 35 stem and 35 rise bar (at 800), out of curiosity.
> 
> ...


I am running 50mm stem 35mm rise 800mm bar, I'm 6'3" XL. I tried a 40mm stem and didn't like how it handled, not a reach issue.


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## Blair_J79 (Jan 8, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Hey guys. Sorry to raise this again.
> 
> I am running a 50 stem and a 25 rise bar (at 800). Thinking of trying a 35 stem and 35 rise bar (at 800), out of curiosity.
> 
> ...


I'm 5'10 on a large XT with the stock Turbine bar cut to 770mm. I just swapped from the stock 50mm stem to a 9Point8 Stout 32mm. The front end is easier to lift up and over rocks and down off drops which was my intent with the swap. I don't manual but it did help the bike feel a bit more nimble without making it feel too twitchy. I'm sure a 35mm would feel the same.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Blair_J79 said:


> I'm 5'10 on a large XT with the stock Turbine bar cut to 770mm. I just swapped from the stock 50mm stem to a 9Point8 Stout 32mm. The front end is easier to lift up and over rocks and down off drops which was my intent with the swap. I don't manual but it did help the bike feel a bit more nimble without making it feel too twitchy. I'm sure a 35mm would feel the same.


What you said is the reason I am thinking about swapping. 50 to 35 on the stem, and 20 to 35 on the bar.

On a different note, I don't know how long I can go with the DD MaxxGrip Assguy and DD DHR2. My god. They are incredible on the downs but I am seriously dying on the climbs. I won't ever go back to a DHF on the front though. That middle ground, transition zone, scratching traction issue will never haunt my dreams again.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Dual assegais my dudes.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> What you said is the reason I am thinking about swapping. 50 to 35 on the stem, and 20 to 35 on the bar.
> 
> On a different note, I don't know how long I can go with the DD MaxxGrip Assguy and DD DHR2. My god. They are incredible on the downs but I am seriously dying on the climbs. I won't ever go back to a DHF on the front though. That middle ground, transition zone, scratching traction issue will never haunt my dreams again.


5'9" on large xt with 35mm stem and 35 rise. Also, 160mm airshaft in the 36. It's still a great tech climber but I can get the front up easier.
I'm on DHR DD front and rear. Max grip in the front and max terra in the rear. Weird setup but I'm really liking it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> 5'9" on large xt with 35mm stem and 35 rise. Also, 160mm airshaft in the 36. It's still a great tech climber but I can get the front up easier.
> I'm on DHR DD front and rear. Max grip in the front and max terra in the rear. Weird setup but I'm really liking it.


Think I'm going to jump on the 35/35 combo tomorrow. Any downside or regrets from your perspective?

Are those 2.4 DHR2s?

I think I may leave the Assguy on the front and look at different alternatives for the rear. Maybe a Dissector or Aggressor. Or a 2.3 (as opposed to a 2.4) DHR2. I'm pretty sure it's the 2.4 DHR2 that's sucking the life outta me.

Maybe I should ditch the DD on the front and go with something a little less robust? EXO+?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I’m DHR2 MaxGrip 2.4 EXO front with Agressor 2.3 rear and I love it (Previously DHF front and DHR rear and it was soul sucking)


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## Df_Bike (May 30, 2021)

Hey guys can anyone compare the Dreadnought an the Deviate ? has someone ridden both of them? because i think geometry data dont tell the whole truht.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Think I'm going to jump on the 35/35 combo tomorrow. Any downside or regrets from your perspective?
> 
> Are those 2.4 DHR2s?
> 
> ...


Availability is the reason I have this combo and I may have stumbled across something. I like the Assegai and if I had my choice it would have been Assegai exo+ max grip 2.5.
My DHRs are 2.4 front 2.5 rear. I've got a smaller rim width in the back so there is very little difference between them in installed width. Max grip on the front is a noticeable improvement.
In the dry conditions I'm doing more controlled 2 wheel slides when the traction does break, so I'm either getting better at this or the tires are working better for me. So many factors to consider, but I trust them more...for now.
I'm finding the 5degC increase in temp around here is the reason climbing has become harder.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I'm doing 35/35 and it's fantastic. The effective top tube length was a little too long for me and this makes it more comfortable.

I'm only using exo assegais with cushcore and I haven't flatted since I bought this bike.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> In the dry conditions I'm doing more controlled 2 wheel slides when the traction does break, so I'm either getting better at this or the tires are working better for me. So many factors to consider, but I trust them more...for now.


It's not just the conditions or the tires; I've noticed that the Druid drifts better than any bike I've ever owned. Those long chainstays make manuals a bit harder, but man does it ever stay calm while moving sideways. My last DHRII wore way past the point I would have replaced it on my previous bike, because I was enjoying the hooligan factor a bit too much.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

Df_Bike said:


> Hey guys can anyone compare the Dreadnought an the Deviate ? has someone ridden both of them? because i think geometry data dont tell the whole truht.


Hello Df_Bike

Yes, I've ridden both.

To cut a long story short, I intended to buy the Highlander. I had a demo on the Highlander with Deviate at a local bike park late '19. I was sold on the high pivot point (hpp) and the bike. I put my money down. Covid affected delivery timescales. I secured a long term demo and took it away to Ainsa with Basque MTB. It excelled and I felt instantly comfortable on the bike. Then lockdown happened and I decided to return the loan bike and cancel my order. As everything was such an unknown.

When things lifted in the UK I opted to buy the Druid (without a demo and without riding it before hand). I've now owned since Aug '20.

The Deviate is the bigger bike. In feel, fit and travel. I'd compare it to a Megatower. An enduro bike.

Were as the Druid is the lighter, more nimble, trail bike, that lets you mix it with the bigger bikes.

For me, how I ride and where I most regularly ride, the Druid made more sense.

I think the Druid is the firmer, more supportive hpp design and the Highlander plusher in suspension feel. Although it's difficult to compare as the Druid is DPX2 and the Highlander was X2.

Both are great bikes.

Enduro Mag and Pinkbike have reviewed both and reference comparisons in their articles from what I remember. So worth reading.

I hope this helps.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

kingofbiscuits said:


> Hello Df_Bike
> 
> Yes, I've ridden both. To cut a long story short, I intended to buy the Highlander. I had a demo on the Highlander with Deviate at a local bike park late '19. I was sold on the high pivot point (hpp) and the bike. I put my money down. Covid affected delivery timescales. I secured a long term demo and took it away to Ainsa with Basque MTB. It excelled and I felt instantly comfortable on the bike. Then lockdown happened and I decided to return the loan bike and cancel my order. As everything was such an unknown.
> 
> ...


Apologies, I've not ridden both. I've ridden the Druid and the Highlander.

Either way, I hope my comparison helps. The Highlander is the bigger of the two bikes. I rode it in 160F/140R guise. Deviate definitely market the Highlander as a trail bike, but it's on the Enduro end of the trail bike scale.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

2021 Fox 36 is heading back to warranty service for the 3rd time. This time it’s the dreaded creaking CSU. Not impressed and frustrated they can’t figure out this CSU issue. All new design for 2021 but they haven’t solved the biggest issue. Wondering if others have had this issue with fox? I had it happen on my Pike too, so not sure what options there that will last for a few years. EXT is expensive but it looks like have a different approach to solving this issue, which makes sense. Thoughts and experiences?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

vanislemtbr said:


> 2021 Fox 36 is heading back to warranty service for the 3rd time. This time it's the dreaded creaking CSU. Not impressed and frustrated they can't figure out this CSU issue. All new design for 2021 but they haven't solved the biggest issue. Wondering if others have had this issue with fox? I had it happen on my Pike too, so not sure what options there that will last for a few years. EXT is expensive but it looks like have a different approach to solving this issue, which makes sense. Thoughts and experiences?


If I were to get the creaking CSU, my first choice for replacement is the ext era.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> 2021 Fox 36 is heading back to warranty service for the 3rd time. This time it's the dreaded creaking CSU. Not impressed and frustrated they can't figure out this CSU issue. All new design for 2021 but they haven't solved the biggest issue. Wondering if others have had this issue with fox? I had it happen on my Pike too, so not sure what options there that will last for a few years. EXT is expensive but it looks like have a different approach to solving this issue, which makes sense. Thoughts and experiences?


Same problem for me, different brand on the Druid. My Helm mkII is creaking badly on the left stanchion. I got a Cane Creek this time because the last bike's Fox 36 failed at the CSU three times, twice within warranty. Also had a DVO Diamond that lasted a couple years, but it eventually failed the same way.

I am starting to believe that single crown forks have evolved to be so light that they can't handle drops and/or heavy braking on rough steeps (these are a few of my favourite things).

Suspensionwerx tells me that they haven't seen any CSU failures on the Ohlins forks, but so few of those (or the EXT Eras) are sold, that I worry that it's just too small a sample size to know if it's really a problem or not...


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

new cascade links getting anodized right now

new compatible shocks updated on their site for the new link


https://cascadecomponents.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058539832-Frame-and-Shock-Compatibility-for-the-Forbidden-Druid-Link-FD-1000-



I talked to them and said with a custom lower spring retainer for the storia would make it compatible.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> new cascade links getting anodized right now
> 
> new compatible shocks updated on their site for the new link
> 
> ...


Are they providing this retainer? Version B1 doesn't address coil shocks, which seems like a good portion of users with $$$ and motivation(ie. increased progression in the linkage to offset the linear spring rate). Thanks for sharing the update. 
I'm still on the DPX2, but want a Storia. Combination of this link and the Storia could be a winner.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

vanislemtbr said:


> Are they providing this retainer? Version B1 doesn't address coil shocks, which seems like a good portion of users with $$$ and motivation(ie. increased progression in the linkage to offset the linear spring rate). Thanks for sharing the update.
> I'm still on the DPX2, but want a Storia. Combination of this link and the Storia could be a winner.


no they wont but people have been making them for the v1 shock, seems they are aware of that.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Seems odd they just couldn't make it work w/ all coils out there - right now the site says the only coil that officially works is the DHX2? No word on Push, new Fox DHX, Bomber CR, Ohlins?


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Yeah im over worrying about it. Gonna 3d print a test retainer ring at the library and if it works i'll get someone to machine it and be done with it.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

IT'S CHRISTMAS IN JUNE!!!

NSB is going to start making stainless idlers for the druid.









NSB SS Idler Pulley Kit


Machined in Canada from 416 Stainless Steel Raw material finish Includes an Enduro 6902 Solid Lube bearing Weight = 68g




www.forbiddenbike.com


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

armyofevilrobots said:


> IT'S CHRISTMAS IN JUNE!!!
> 
> NSB is going to start making stainless idlers for the druid.


Not only are these new idlers coming, I reached out to Fanatik today, and frames should be on their way. They were scheduled to arrive around My 24th, unloaded from the ship, and then sent to their shop in Bellingham. They have no idea on an ETA, but this sounds promising.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

armyofevilrobots said:


> IT'S CHRISTMAS IN JUNE!!!
> 
> NSB is going to start making stainless idlers for the druid.
> 
> ...


Forbidden Insta was also hinting at a June 9 drop of something Ziggy-related. Anyone have insider knowledge or wild-ass guesses?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

pinkrobe said:


> Forbidden Insta was also hinting at a June 9 drop of something Ziggy-related. Anyone have insider knowledge or wild-ass guesses?


I bet they're releasing their own revised link to front run cascade.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

meeeeep said:


> I bet they're releasing their own revised link to front run cascade.


I hope so, 'cause I can't afford a Dreadnought this year!


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

On their Instagram page you can see a rear fender on the desk in the background. Could they be tweaking this as well?


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

dubthang said:


> Not only are these new idlers coming, I reached out to Fanatik today, and frames should be on their way. They were scheduled to arrive around My 24th, unloaded from the ship, and then sent to their shop in Bellingham. They have no idea on an ETA, but this sounds promising.


That's good hear. I've been waiting for my cosmic eggplant for a while! Did you hear this from Rich? I reached out to him when a few people got their Dreads from Fanatik, he said it was a partial shipment of Dreads and they did not have further details on the outstanding orders for Druids. That was on May 27th.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

PisgahGnar said:


> That's good hear. I've been waiting for my cosmic eggplant for a while! Did you hear this from Rich? I reached out to him when a few people got their Dreads from Fanatik, he said it was a partial shipment of Dreads and they did not have further details on the outstanding orders for Druids. That was on May 27th.


Yes, it was from Rich. He had my order number so I don't know if that makes a difference in who gets what when.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

dubthang said:


> Yes, it was from Rich. He had my order number so I don't know if that makes a difference in who gets what when.


Who knows. I was told I'm in the first batch, but they also just received a half batch of Dreads so it doesn't really mean anything.

I ordered my Druid back at the end of March a day or two after shoulder surgery. I knew it would be a bit of a wait, but I also was in recovery so it would be easier without being able to ride anyway. Of course I'm now back on my bike, albeit at a more careful pace. The waiting is soooo much harder now.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

PisgahGnar said:


> Who knows. I was told I'm in the first batch, but they also just received a half batch of Dreads so it doesn't really mean anything.
> 
> I ordered my Druid back at the end of March a day or two after shoulder surgery. I knew it would be a bit of a wait, but I also was in recovery so it would be easier without being able to ride anyway. Of course I'm now back on my bike, albeit at a more careful pace. The waiting is soooo much harder now.


I hear ya. I ordered in April. I have new parts all over my living room. I was originally going to rebuild/upgrade my Mondraker, but now everything is going onto my Druid. Before I placed my order, I reached out to Forbidden to ask about a time frame. They told me late June - early July, and to place an order asap. It seems like things are on track. Here's hoping.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Had a terrible sound (constant creaking) coming from my suspension after a wet ride followed by a day of jumping with my son. Thought I'd done something to damage the bike but after 4 hours of hunting, assembly and disassembly 3 times, and replacing a couple crunchy bearings, it was the rate control linkage bolt that was slightly off full torque. Had to stick it in a vice and give it a little side to side force to find it. Cleaned, torqued and the sounds is gone. Hope to save you all some time if it happens to you.
> 
> FYI- if any of you are not getting along with your 2021 fox 36, I went to 160mm, 5 spacers, 80psi and I'm finally loving this fork. Was bottom out all the time and didn't like the small bump compliance before. I'm 185lbs and on a large.
> 
> Cheers,


Oh man. This has happened to me twice now. Thanks.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Late to the party but here are some pics of my Druid. Have about 200 miles on her and its been a blast so far. I really am linking the bike, but have had some weird noise issues. I found that it was the bolt holding the link together...I've had to pull it apart twice now, clean it, re-torque it. I suppose there is a bit more maintenance on the idler, but I'm pretty anal about my bikes so its not been a big deal really and like pulling them apart. I'm really considering ditching the lower guide as it makes a lot of noise which annoys me.

These are old pics - wheels have now been replaced with WeAreOne Unions on I9 Hydra hubs, I also have the Jank in-line pump holder now.

In terms of setup - I'm 5'11" 180pounds - riding a size large...feels like I'm still fighting it in the rear and not 100% set on what I like...I get this weird bottom out sensation at times where the bike just feels like its dead...heavy bottom out the rebound seems slow...have experimented with faster rebound but it doesn't feel great on the chatter. Anyone else running an X2?

Fox 36 - 150mm - 102 PSI - 3 tokens ~18% sag
HSC: 5
LSC: 10
HSR: 4
LSR: 5

Float X2 - 172psi - 3 tokens ~30% sag
HSC: 4
LSC: 9
HSR: 4
LSR: 5

Running the OneUP Stem - 50mm, and 30mm rise bar cut to 760 (yea yea...unpopular I know but thinking about 755 even)

Not sure what else to say...I kinda wish I had bought the Dreadnaught as the 130mm does seem outgunned sometimes but overall really happy with the bike. Its the smallest travel bike I've had in 10+ years so has taken some adjustment.

I have a Ziggy Link but have not tried it yet.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Late to the party but here are some pics of my Druid. Have about 200 miles on her and its been a blast so far. I really am linking the bike, but have had some weird noise issues. I found that it was the bolt holding the link together...I've had to pull it apart twice now, clean it, re-torque it. I suppose there is a bit more maintenance on the idler, but I'm pretty anal about my bikes so its not been a big deal really and like pulling them apart. I'm really considering ditching the lower guide as it makes a lot of noise which annoys me.
> 
> These are old pics - wheels have now been replaced with WeAreOne Unions on I9 Hydra hubs, I also have the Jank in-line pump holder now.
> 
> ...


Nice build. I'm still on the DPX2 but did find a noticeable and beneficial difference in rear suspension performance running 35% sag(19mm). I don't like the idea of loosing all that travel, but the weirdness stopped. I also maxed the volume spacers to improve bottom out. LSC and HSC are open and rebound is very close to open. I still get the odd hard bottom out feeling when braking over rough terrain. I need to spot the smooth areas and brake there. Good luck!


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Nice build. I'm still on the DPX2 but did find a noticeable and beneficial difference in rear suspension performance running 35% sag(19mm). I don't like the idea of loosing all that travel, but the weirdness stopped. I also maxed the volume spacers to improve bottom out. LSC and HSC are open and rebound is very close to open. I still get the odd hard bottom out feeling when braking over rough terrain. I need to spot the smooth areas and brake there. Good luck!


Hmm interesting. When I ran 35% it felt like I bottomed every hit. Perhaps I have too much compression - will try opening it up to see how it feels.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

vanislemtbr said:


> Had a terrible sound (constant creaking) coming from my suspension after a wet ride followed by a day of jumping with my son. Thought I'd done something to damage the bike but after 4 hours of hunting, assembly and disassembly 3 times, and replacing a couple crunchy bearings, it was the rate control linkage bolt that was slightly off full torque. Had to stick it in a vice and give it a little side to side force to find it. Cleaned, torqued and the sounds is gone. Hope to save you all some time if it happens to you.
> 
> FYI- if any of you are not getting along with your 2021 fox 36, I went to 160mm, 5 spacers, 80psi and I'm finally loving this fork. Was bottom out all the time and didn't like the small bump compliance before. I'm 185lbs and on a large.
> 
> Cheers,


Thanks for sharing this, I'm sure it will save me a TON of troubleshooting time if I develop the creak.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

Just a heads up to to everyone, do keep an eye on the main shaft for the shock yoke/rate control linkage, I reached out to Forbidden about it:


> Thank you for reaching out, we do have a solution to this issue.
> The Druid's Rocker Link can sit a fraction of a millimeter past the bearings which can sometimes cause the spacer flange to contact the linkage. We have added an additional step to the manufacturing of the linkage to ensure this won't happen anymore. In the meantime, we have designed a new flangeless spacer that cannot contact the rocker link and allows the linkage to cycle smoothly as it should. Hopefully this will fix the challenges you've been having with the bolt. Please confirm your shipping address and we'll send a set out at no charge right away. When reinstalling the new washers we also recommend making sure there is some Loctite on the threads.
> *Forbidden Bike Company*
> [email protected]


I put well over 1,200 km's before mine loosened the first time, but it has happened another three times since then, easiest way to tell is to hold the rear triangle with one hand and pull the seat tube upwards with the other, if it feels "notchy" it needs to be snugged up.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Outlawed said:


> Just a heads up to to everyone, do keep an eye on the main shaft for the shock yoke/rate control linkage, I reached out to Forbidden about it:
> 
> I put well over 1,200 km's before mine loosened the first time, but it has happened another three times since then, easiest way to tell is to hold the rear triangle with one hand and pull the seat tube upwards with the other, if it feels "notchy" it needs to be snugged up.


Thanks. This is the issue I am having...sounds like loctite might help.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Nice build. I'm still on the DPX2 but did find a noticeable and beneficial difference in rear suspension performance running 35% sag(19mm). I don't like the idea of loosing all that travel, but the weirdness stopped. I also maxed the volume spacers to improve bottom out. LSC and HSC are open and rebound is very close to open. I still get the odd hard bottom out feeling when braking over rough terrain. I need to spot the smooth areas and brake there. Good luck!


So update...per suggestion of a member here I opened up all 4 knobs in the rear and went for a ride...wow...what a difference. The dead feeling is totally gone and the bike was tracking like something else. I finally felt the 'more travel than it seems' thing we've all been reading about.

I think i need to slow the rebound down 1-2 clicks but compression wide open really made a BIG difference.

so now fork...20-ish% sag...how are you guys running it to match the rear?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Glad it’s improved for you! I like my forks supple, and I alternate between a Yarilanche & Mezzer at 160 w/ 25% sag


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Went out same track again...this time I closed the LSC 2 clicks...if felt better, not as much bob when pedaling in the flat bits.

But I got bucked again and lost my back foot on a bigger compression...same exact scenario as the day before...thoughts on if thats a rebound thing or a compression thing?

I feel like maybe slow the LSR down?


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Went out same track again...this time I closed the LSC 2 clicks...if felt better, not as much bob when pedaling in the flat bits.
> 
> But I got bucked again and lost my back foot on a bigger compression...same exact scenario as the day before...thoughts on if thats a rebound thing or a compression thing?
> 
> I feel like maybe slow the LSR down?


Looks like you're in the fine tuning stages. I'm glad it's feeling better. LSR is related to pressure in the shock, so should be adjusted if you change the pressure. I think you were running a less sag then I, so therefore higher pressure. On the DPX2, I'm run 2-4 clicks of LSR. I'd keep LSC open until you get LSR figured out, as LSR might have been the root cause of you loosing your footing. Low LSR would also give you that pogo feeling when pumping up hills.

I ride clip-ins most of the year and with flats you might be getting the pogo feeing from weight transfer. With the idler on the Druid, it doesn't seem to have any bobbing while climbing. I can't say the same for my old Kona Process.

LSC will slow bobbing down but it's a compromise, which I don't like on the Druid. Hence, the climb switch or just try to smooth out your input. Tinkering is fun and the Druid really needs the right setup. She's a sensitive beast.

As for the fork, I like supple off top and with a big ramp up for larger hits. I have 80psi with 5 volume spacers. Knobs adjusted for quickness over ground hugging.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Hmm...thanks, there is a bit of a pogo feeling when pedaling standing up (while going down)...its just feels unsupportive if that makes sense when pedaling out of the saddle. For reference I am running 17mm of sag...so 31-32% ish...

The rear end was getting bucked up under me on little g-outs...kinda like little jumps that I was absorbing but it was not pitching me over the bars or anything but does make me wonder if its too fast in the rear (or too slow in the front?). 

So perhaps my LSC adjustment was not what I should have done. I will open the LSC up again, and close the rebound 2 clicks to see how that feels. 

Thoughts on that as the next approach?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I think that’s exactly what you should do. I’m a somewhat cautious rider, and fear bucking; ergo, I run my rebound quick up front, and slow out back. Also, I don’t believe the Druid needs much LSC.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Hmm...thanks, there is a bit of a pogo feeling when pedaling standing up (while going down)...its just feels unsupportive if that makes sense when pedaling out of the saddle. For reference I am running 17mm of sag...so 31-32% ish...
> 
> The rear end was getting bucked up under me on little g-outs...kinda like little jumps that I was absorbing but it was not pitching me over the bars or anything but does make me wonder if its too fast in the rear (or too slow in the front?).
> 
> ...


I think you should do exactly that and then add LSC after you figure out LSR. Doing things one at a time is needed at this stage to understand the effect. Sag and rebound together, then compression. Once you get a setup that works, record it and then I suggest dropping 2-3 psi to get your sag at 35%. That's when I found the bike became more predictable and plush in the back. It's also what Forbidden recommends, go figure.

Yep, I agree that fast and poppy on the front allows me to get the front off the ground and pick my lines. My arm suspension system can handle things a little better then my legs. Maybe that's the another difference with the pros, their back ends are relatively more active than the weekend warriors.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Yea its funny cause 35% i felt i was bottoming out the entire time it was odd. I will open LSC, and close rebound 2 clicks keeping everything else the same (170psi, open HSR/HSC) and report back.

Thanks.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Front Im running about 18% sag...HSC open, LSC, LSR and HSR on the recommended Fox settings. Im going to do a oil bath service this weekend to see if it makes it a bit less harsh.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

If anyone is looking for a Ride Wrap for a size Large Druid in matte, I just threw it up on Buy/Sell for $85. Also on PB Buy/Sell.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

So another update from over the weekend for those interested.

Dropped the pressure to 160psi in the X2 to achieve 35% sag.

HSR/HSC fully open
LSC open
LSR 2 clicks

Feels really nice now...might actually open up the LSR given i dropped the pressure. Bike has finally come alive!


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

https://m.pinkbike.com/news/video-forbidden-announces-mixed-wheel-druid-gx-ziggy-edition.html



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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

jay_paradox said:


> https://m.pinkbike.com/news/video-forbidden-announces-mixed-wheel-druid-gx-ziggy-edition.html
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Seemingly bought my XT at a good time last year at launch. $$$$

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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Seemingly bought my XT at a good time last year at launch. $$$$
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah lotta mentions in the comments in that article about price increase.

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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

jay_paradox said:


> Yeah lotta mentions in the comments in that article about price increase.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


it's true - but I got some friends in Canadia and it's pretty resonable up there. I keep thinking there are more price increases to come from other brands here - no one has anything in stock, but whenever stuff lands, prices go up.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

1400km tear down pics. Enjoy. I’ve had this apart 3 other times, so it’s been well taken care of. Will be replacing the two small bearings on the rear triangle, which are a little notchy but still moving fine with the waterproof grease I adding a couple months ago. The rest are fine.
Hardware is in good shape. Besides the rock chips, I’m not seeing any issues to be concerned about. The rock chips just make me sad and happens even with moto foam installed.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> 1400km tear down pics. Enjoy. I've had this apart 3 other times, so it's been well taken care of. Will be replacing the two small bearings on the rear triangle, which are a little notchy but still moving fine with the waterproof grease I adding a couple months ago. The rest are fine.
> Hardware is in good shape. Besides the rock chips, I'm not seeing any issues to be concerned about. The rock chips just make me sad and happens even with moto foam installed.


Have you pulled the bolt on the rate control linkage? Mine had some pretty crazy wear at the bearings, despite being torqued to spec.
Also, those chips have convinced me to put some moto-foam in there. Mine's still not chipped, but that's a game of statistics obviously.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

vanislemtbr said:


> 1400km tear down pics. Enjoy. I've had this apart 3 other times, so it's been well taken care of. Will be replacing the two small bearings on the rear triangle, which are a little notchy but still moving fine with the waterproof grease I adding a couple months ago. The rest are fine.
> Hardware is in good shape. Besides the rock chips, I'm not seeing any issues to be concerned about. The rock chips just make me sad and happens even with moto foam installed.


The trick to completely avoid rock chips may be a combo of both the moto foam and extended rear fender. I cut an old bendy black plastic front fender and double sided taped it to the stock rear fender - extends it by only a few inches and is barely noticeable but seems to make a world of difference. After the fender extension I very rarely see anything sitting on the foam.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Anyone have a Ziggy link they are sick of and want to sell?


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Frazam said:


> The trick to completely avoid rock chips may be a combo of both the moto foam and extended rear fender. I cut an old bendy black plastic front fender and double sided taped it to the stock rear fender - extends it by only a few inches and is barely noticeable but seems to make a world of difference. After the fender extension I very rarely see anything sitting on the foam.


Yep, I've got an extension and moto foam. They have helped but some of the damage was done already. Superficial damage in areas you can't see, so not a big deal.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Have you pulled the bolt on the rate control linkage? Mine had some pretty crazy wear at the bearings, despite being torqued to spec.
> Also, those chips have convinced me to put some moto-foam in there. Mine's still not chipped, but that's a game of statistics obviously.
> View attachment 1935051


Yes, I had it off a few times. A couple months ago I had a creak, which turned out to be the linkage pivot bolt had backed off. I removed the bolt at that time and had no signs of wear. I'll pull it off and send a pic.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

vanislemtbr said:


> Yes, I had it off a few times. A couple months ago I had a creak, which turned out to be the linkage pivot bolt had backed off. I removed the bolt at that time and had no signs of wear. I'll pull it off and send a pic.


Don't take a photo on my account. I suspect there was something out of spec on mine. That wear pattern I have is weird, especially since the bearings are still smooth as butter.


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## xavex (Jun 16, 2021)

This probably has been asked before: I'm running an XT derailleur on my Druid. On the smallest cog (10t) the chain is slipping under torque. Shifting otherwise is flawless. Do I need to adjust the chain tension? Any other tweaks I might try? My dealer here in Munich thinks that nothing can be done about it.

Appreciate your help!


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

anyone have an xl frame or complete they want to sell? Time to take a plunge after breaking my GG smash for the third time.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

xavex said:


> This probably has been asked before: I'm running an XT derailleur on my Druid. On the smallest cog (10t) the chain is slipping under torque. Shifting otherwise is flawless. Do I need to adjust the chain tension? Any other tweaks I might try? My dealer here in Munich thinks that nothing can be done about it.
> 
> Appreciate your help!


Forbidden website FAQ has this I believe. You need to back off the B-screw a little from Shimano recommended settings. You may find the chain rides on the stay protector, but I didn't have an issue with this. I rarely use this gear though. Good luck!


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

xavex said:


> This probably has been asked before: I'm running an XT derailleur on my Druid. On the smallest cog (10t) the chain is slipping under torque. Shifting otherwise is flawless. Do I need to adjust the chain tension? Any other tweaks I might try? My dealer here in Munich thinks that nothing can be done about it.
> 
> Appreciate your help!


I've got the same drivetrain and it works a treat. The only problem in the 10t is a bit of rubbing on the protective rubber guard.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> anyone have an xl frame or complete they want to sell? Time to take a plunge after breaking my GG smash for the third time.


OK, on one hand I am really glad I got the Druid, instead of the GG, since I was considering it... 
OTOH, three times?! Wha Happen!?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Frazam said:


> The trick to completely avoid rock chips may be a combo of both the moto foam and extended rear fender. I cut an old bendy black plastic front fender and double sided taped it to the stock rear fender - extends it by only a few inches and is barely noticeable but seems to make a world of difference. After the fender extension I very rarely see anything sitting on the foam.


Yeah I did the same thing. Don't get too many rocks in there anymore, if at all.

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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

armyofevilrobots said:


> OK, on one hand I am really glad I got the Druid, instead of the GG, since I was considering it...
> OTOH, three times?! Wha Happen!?


Well - i'm 6'6" 220lb and ride pretty hard (DH background). Snapped the chainstay once, had the rear pivot strip and pop out twice. All 3 times have required a new lower chainstay. Luckily the main triangle has survived. I've broken every frame i've owned. Demo 9, M3, M6, and now the GG. hoping carbon helps? haha


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## mixmastamikal (Jun 14, 2010)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Well - i'm 6'6" 220lb and ride pretty hard (DH background). Snapped the chainstay once, had the rear pivot strip and pop out twice. All 3 times have required a new lower chainstay. Luckily the main triangle has survived. I've broken every frame i've owned. Demo 9, M3, M6, and now the GG. hoping carbon helps? haha


Was the GG aluminum or the new revved carbon?

EDIT: I am just realizing now the rear triangle on the new Smash is still AL anyway.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mixmastamikal said:


> Was the GG aluminum or the new revved carbon?
> 
> EDIT: I am just realizing now the rear triangle on the new Smash is still AL anyway.


Aluminum.

Still lookin for an XL druid if anyone sells one. Or a dreadnought...


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## xavex (Jun 16, 2021)

Re skipping chain: It seems like the chain was 2 links too long and the B-screw 1.5 turns too tight. So far, so good. We'll see how things hold up out in the wild ...


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Well time to get the Druid back together. I've added a couple pics and some points:

shout out to Fox Service in Burnaby for a 3 day turn around on my fork. They tell you when they are going to look at it and then get it done. New CSU, so we'll see how that goes.
rate control linkage bolt had backed off after 2 months even with blue thread locker. No sounds but it wasn't torqued down. Bolt is in good shape. Bearings felt great until I torqued it down and then they were a little notchy. I'll replace those later in the year.
this bike is a pleasure to work on.
pics of the moto foam instal using 2-sided tape. Trying some foam on the side, as this seems to be the worst spot now.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

So how do we make the rate control linkage bolt stay in? Mines loose again which means play in the rear triangle.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> So how do we make the rate control linkage bolt stay in? Mines loose again which means play in the rear triangle.


I've cleaned the threads and reapplied the blue thread locker. I can't recall if I cleaned the threads last time, so I'm hoping this will do it. If not, I'll try red on the last few threads but that makes me nervous.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

@meeeeep @vanislemtbr you will probably need the revised spacers, send forbidden a email.
I got mine earlier this week and swapped them out today


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Outlawed said:


> @meeeeep @vanislemtbr you will probably need the revised spacers, send forbidden a email.
> I got mine earlier this week and swapped them out today
> View attachment 1935793


I've had the bolt come loose on both types of spacers


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Outlawed said:


> @meeeeep @vanislemtbr you will probably need the revised spacers, send forbidden a email.
> I got mine earlier this week and swapped them out today
> View attachment 1935793


Are they the same thickness but the alternate set doesn't have the fender?


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## LittleCarrot (Nov 3, 2018)

Im looking to buy a druid frame used, are there specific things to look out for?


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Anyone else have to pull and clean the idler pulley bearings after every ride? Grit and sand and muck seem to get into it very easily, and makes some awful grinding noises. I’ve tried packing it full of grease, and I’ve tried running it dry. Either way, I get about 7 miles before it’s unbearable.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Anyone else have to pull and clean the idler pulley bearings after every ride? Grit and sand and muck seem to get into it very easily, and makes some awful grinding noises. I've tried packing it full of grease, and I've tried running it dry. Either way, I get about 7 miles before it's unbearable.


I do find I have to lube the chain every ride to have a more silent ride, but never need to remove and clean the idler due to grinding sounds. Maybe confirm it isn't rubbing on the upper or lower guides. I typical use dry lube or make sure the wet lube is wiped before I ride to avoid mid-ride chain noise. That noise isn't really a grinding but I find it a little annoying.

This design requires more attention to the chain maintenance than any bike I've had. On my 3rd idler at 1400km. Check the website because Forbidden has some new solutions for idlers, which appear to address longevity issues.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> Anyone else have to pull and clean the idler pulley bearings after every ride? Grit and sand and muck seem to get into it very easily, and makes some awful grinding noises. I've tried packing it full of grease, and I've tried running it dry. Either way, I get about 7 miles before it's unbearable.


The spacer on the backside of mine is starting to lose some of its anodization on the dust shield/flange from rubbing after about 900 miles. I cleaned it up and took off an edge/burr that was forming, and it's quieter. I think the pulley redesign might have a different spacer on the back that may not have this flange.

They've designed a series of flanged dust shields on this bike that don't seem to perform under load and dirt on some bikes--two sets of the dust flanges on the linkage were wearing/binding on mine, too, and are replaced with flangeless ones. HOpefully they spend time re-engineering things to be more tolerant and retrofittable.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> I've had the bolt come loose on both types of spacers


Oh boy, that sucks.


vanislemtbr said:


> Are they the same thickness but the alternate set doesn't have the fender?


Correct, they are now the same diameter as the bearings in the shock yoke


unrealityshow said:


> Anyone else have to pull and clean the idler pulley bearings after every ride? Grit and sand and muck seem to get into it very easily, and makes some awful grinding noises. I've tried packing it full of grease, and I've tried running it dry. Either way, I get about 7 miles before it's unbearable.


I was cleaning/regreasing mine every secondish ride during the winter time, did not making grinding noises but you could tell when it needed to be serviced. Bought a revised NSB billet aluminum idler with the solid lube bearing that no longer packing the labyrinth seal with grease anymore, haven't put it on yet as I want to wear the original idler completely before changing it.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> They've designed a series of flanged dust shields on this bike that don't seem to perform under load and dirt on some bikes--two sets of the dust flanges on the linkage were wearing/binding on mine, too, and are replaced with flangeless ones. HOpefully they spend time re-engineering things to be more tolerant and retrofittable.


This. I'll added that they didn't properly consider paint thickness and bearing play in these designs. I'd prefer these dust fenders be replaced with a aluminium spacer that has rubber fenders. These rubber fenders would provide better protection for the bearing and tolerate variability in paint thickness bearing play. You could machine a grove or step in the outer surface of the spacer and stamp these rubber fender washers out of rubber sheets. It tempting to do this myself and give the bearings a chance. Maybe before winter


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Still lookin for an XL druid if anyone sells one. Or a dreadnought...


Just PM'ed ya. I've been loving the Druid but as bike park season gets under way here in the NE I'm looking down the line and hoping my Dreadnaught will deliver sooner than later 

Incidentally, I do have an Eleven Six-SS for the Druid that will likely never see action on the bike since the DPX2 has been flawless thus far, and the Dreadnaught I ordered will ship with the Push coil. Send me a PM if interested.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

LittleCarrot said:


> Im looking to buy a druid frame used, are there specific things to look out for?


Don't buy one used.


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## LittleCarrot (Nov 3, 2018)

Nurse Ben said:


> Don't buy one used.


Why?


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3086925/


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

LittleCarrot said:


> Why?


It's a high maintenance frame and it would be an expensive frame to replace without a warranty.

When I think about the justification for a warranty, I look at risk (condition, design, etc) and I look at cost to replace.

The Druid is one of the more expensive bike frames out there.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> It's a high maintenance frame and it would be an expensive frame to replace without a warranty.
> 
> When I think about the justification for a warranty, I look at risk (condition, design, etc) and I look at cost to replace.
> 
> The Druid is one of the more expensive bike frames out there.


You can't really say it's one of the more expensive frames. I will agree with you that buying any used carbon frame is a risk as you no longer have a warranty. For some buying used is the only option that makes it affordable enough to do it and they are willing to take that risk. I wasn't willing and bought a new frame.

Yeti SB130 frame $3800
Santa Cruz Hightower frame $3649
Ibis Ripmo frame $3499
Evil Offering frame $3299
Pivot Switchblade $5600 (as far as I can see, could be wrong)
Specialized Stumpjumper frame $3000
Druid Frame $3249


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Outlawed said:


> Oh boy, that sucks.
> 
> Correct, they are now the same diameter as the bearings in the shock yoke
> 
> I was cleaning/regreasing mine every secondish ride during the winter time, did not making grinding noises but you could tell when it needed to be serviced. Bought a revised NSB billet aluminum idler with the solid lube bearing that no longer packing the labyrinth seal with grease anymore, haven't put it on yet as I want to wear the original idler completely before changing it.


Does the new NSB idler come with new hardware?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

unrealityshow said:


> Does the new NSB idler come with new hardware?


It's got a different spacer included (good!), but you reuse the bolt (based on the instruction video).


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

armyofevilrobots said:


> It's got a different spacer included (good!), but you reuse the bolt (based on the instruction video).


Cool. I ordered one, so hopefully that helps with maintenance. I was thinking that maybe trying to extend the fender will help too.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

ALS650L said:


> You can't really say it's one of the more expensive frames. I will agree with you that buying any used carbon frame is a risk as you no longer have a warranty. For some buying used is the only option that makes it affordable enough to do it and they are willing to take that risk. I wasn't willing and bought a new frame.
> 
> Yeti SB130 frame $3800
> Santa Cruz Hightower frame $3649
> ...


Canfield Tilt $2250 with a warranty


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Nurse Ben said:


> Canfield Tilt $2250 with a warranty


Most aluminum frames are cheaper than carbon.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Feel silly asking this, but what is the difference between the OG Idler pulley that comes on the Druid & the NSB Aluminum Idler that they sell on the site (besides the bearing)? What is the OG pulley made from? Would an aluminum wear quickly? Thanks for the help.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

johnsogr said:


> Feel silly asking this, but what is the difference between the OG Idler pulley that comes on the Druid & the NSB Aluminum Idler that they sell on the site (besides the bearing)? What is the OG pulley made from? Would an aluminum wear quickly? Thanks for the help.


The very first idler design was aluminium and worked well for SRAM chains but not Shimano 12 speed. The second idler version works with both SRAM and Shimano chains. The nü-metal 2021 NSB idler comes in two flavours, stainless steel or aluminium. The alloy idlers seem to last about 1000Km before needing replacement. The upcoming stainless version will likely last the life of the bike.


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## LittleCarrot (Nov 3, 2018)

ALS650L said:


> You can't really say it's one of the more expensive frames. I will agree with you that buying any used carbon frame is a risk as you no longer have a warranty. For some buying used is the only option that makes it affordable enough to do it and they are willing to take that risk. I wasn't willing and bought a new frame.
> 
> Yeti SB130 frame $3800
> Santa Cruz Hightower frame $3649
> ...


Damn those frame prices are ridiculous. Even though I have a 21 Specialized Enduro w/ EXT Shock


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

That Norco Range is very cool. “Full Enduro” version of a HP bike. The unique approach by adding the VP is interesting. At 37lbs for a high-end build it’s not going to be a replacement for my Druid and is really in another category. Really don’t like that low VP linkage though because I hit that area on logs and rocks all the time. Those direct forces on a suspension link can’t be good.( even if it has protection). 
Looks like a great enduro race sled and direct competition for the Dreadnought. I do like that companies are figuring out that you can’t build lightweight enduro machines and expect them to last. Now we just need a single crown fork that doesn’t creak or just do the obvious thing and put double crowns on.

Will Norco trickle this down into the Sight and compete with the Druid?


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> That Norco Range is very cool. "Full Enduro" version of a HP bike. The unique approach by adding the VP is interesting. At 37lbs for a high-end build it's not going to be a replacement for my Druid and is really in another category. Really don't like that low VP linkage though because I hit that area on logs and rocks all the time. Those direct forces on a suspension link can't be good.( even if it has protection).
> Looks like a great enduro race sled and direct competition for the Dreadnought. I do like that companies are figuring out that you can't build lightweight enduro machines and expect them to last. Now we just need a single crown fork that doesn't creak or just do the obvious thing and put double crowns on.
> 
> Will Norco trickle this down into the Sight and compete with the Druid?


Im very interested in the Range. The Druid is outgunned on more Enduro tracks...Kaz @ Pinkbike seemed to LOVE the Range where he was a bit meh on the Dreadnaught...


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Im very interested in the Range. The Druid is outgunned on more Enduro tracks...Kaz @ Pinkbike seemed to LOVE the Range where he was a bit meh on the Dreadnaught...


Yep, I've never seen him excited like that. I think Norco is mainstream and raced by Jesse and the DH team. Low risk for Kaz to believe what is happening under his feet and be openly excited about it. I haven't found anything my Druid can't handle that my Process 153 could, but I'm not racing. Speed is the real determining factor in suspension performance and I'm already going too fast on my Druid for someone that isn't getting paid to take those risks. 
Plus, I have to get back up the hill and enjoy that aspect because I spend 90% of my time going up.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

vanislemtbr said:


> Yep, I've never seen him excited like that. I think Norco is mainstream and raced by Jesse and the DH team. Low risk for Kaz to believe what is happening under his feet and be openly excited about it. I haven't found anything my Druid can't handle that my Process 153 could, but I'm not racing. Speed is the real determining factor in suspension performance and I'm already going too fast on my Druid for someone that isn't getting paid to take those risks.
> Plus, I have to get back up the hill and enjoy that aspect because I spend 90% of my time going up.


Yea thats a good point...Range has been the worst kept secret of the last year or so. Would love a direct comparison against the two...170 rear seems overkill but I bet the bike is fun.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

vanislemtbr said:


> That Norco Range is very cool. "Full Enduro" version of a HP bike. The unique approach by adding the VP is interesting. At 37lbs for a high-end build it's not going to be a replacement for my Druid and is really in another category. Really don't like that low VP linkage though because I hit that area on logs and rocks all the time. Those direct forces on a suspension link can't be good.( even if it has protection).
> Looks like a great enduro race sled and direct competition for the Dreadnought. I do like that companies are figuring out that you can't build lightweight enduro machines and expect them to last. Now we just need a single crown fork that doesn't creak or just do the obvious thing and put double crowns on.
> 
> Will Norco trickle this down into the Sight and compete with the Druid?


The new Cannondale Jekyll is another eye catcher for me, being a high pivot with horst link. Another enduro HP bike that may increase Cannondale's market share. A plus point is that they've returned to threaded BB for the Jekyll.

Sent from my LIO-N29 using Tapatalk


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Shadow4eva said:


> The new Cannondale Jekyll is another eye catcher for me, being a high pivot with horst link.


And let's not forget the new Devinci. That thing is a looker!


https://www.pinkbike.com/news/bike-check-keegan-wrights-devinci-prototype.html


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

armyofevilrobots said:


> And let's not forget the new Devinci. That thing is a looker!
> 
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/bike-check-keegan-wrights-devinci-prototype.html


Damn, I have not read that article, that's a sick looking Devinci as well!!

Sent from my LIO-N29 using Tapatalk


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## LittleCarrot (Nov 3, 2018)

vanislemtbr said:


> That Norco Range is very cool. "Full Enduro" version of a HP bike. The unique approach by adding the VP is interesting. At 37lbs for a high-end build it's not going to be a replacement for my Druid and is really in another category. Really don't like that low VP linkage though because I hit that area on logs and rocks all the time. Those direct forces on a suspension link can't be good.( even if it has protection).
> Looks like a great enduro race sled and direct competition for the Dreadnought. I do like that companies are figuring out that you can't build lightweight enduro machines and expect them to last. Now we just need a single crown fork that doesn't creak or just do the obvious thing and put double crowns on.
> 
> Will Norco trickle this down into the Sight and compete with the Druid?


Ive never had a fork creak, I've had over 12 bikes.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> Anyone else have to pull and clean the idler pulley bearings after every ride? Grit and sand and muck seem to get into it very easily, and makes some awful grinding noises. I've tried packing it full of grease, and I've tried running it dry. Either way, I get about 7 miles before it's unbearable.


I had this issue with my Druid, it was one of the main reasons I sold the bike as the constant maintenance was getting super old. From discussions with others at the time it seems to happen more in areas with lots of decomposed granite/moon dust trails (I'm in Socal).


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

LittleCarrot said:


> Ive never had a fork creak, I've had over 12 bikes.


That's a lot of bikes! Maybe you're swapping them over before it becomes an issue. I keep my bikes for awhile, so every fork I've had creaks. I've had a couple double crowns in the 2000s. and they were bombproof. It obviously dependant on the riding style, terrain, crashes, rider weight, etc. That's an awesome record though and I'm crossing my fingers that this new 36 CSU holds up for a couple years.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

rpearce1475 said:


> I had this issue with my Druid, it was one of the main reasons I sold the bike as the constant maintenance was getting super old. From discussions with others at the time it seems to happen more in areas with lots of decomposed granite/moon dust trails (I'm in Socal).


Curious if you guys are using dry chain lube? I've been using Squirt and WD-40 dry lubes for dry weather and the chain stays pretty clean. I do lube every ride, let it sit for a few hours and wipe excess before hitting the trails. Although our dry conditions are like talc powder and not very sandy. I got away with a less diligent method previously on non-HP bikes.

I figured sand wouldn't stick in dry conditions with dry lube. I'm picturing the BETA test of the Dreadnought and the guy out there with lube and a rag. That is just never going to work as it'll be wet all the time and will attract grit.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

vanislemtbr said:


> Curious if you guys are using dry chain lube? I've been using Squirt and WD-40 dry lubes for dry weather and the chain stays pretty clean. I do lube every ride, let it sit for a few hours and wipe excess before hitting the trails. Although our dry conditions are like talc powder and not very sandy. I got away with a less diligent method previously on non-HP bikes.
> 
> I figured sand wouldn't stick in dry conditions with dry lube. I'm picturing the BETA test of the Dreadnought and the guy out there with lube and a rag. That is just never going to work as it'll be wet all the time and will attract grit.


I'm with you on Squirt - that stuff has been awesome for me. If you over apply, just leave until morning and excess flakes/falls off. And then there's nothing to stick to. The Beta guy out there lubing a chain mid-ride? I just.. no words. That review has soured me on ever taking him in particular and Beta seriously. What's the wd40 dry lube like? Wax also? I'd try other waxes but once you start Squirtin' you never wanna stop.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

vanislemtbr said:


> I think Norco is mainstream and raced by Jesse and the DH team.


Did you mean Melamed? He's a Rocky guy racing on the Altitude I believe.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

Shadow4eva said:


> A plus point is that they've returned to threaded BB for the Jekyll.
> 
> Sent from my LIO-N29 using Tapatalk


They may have moved back to a threaded BB, but still using their Ai spacing on the rear hub. Interesting bike but that's just annoying. Although it's easier to set a current wheelset up for that than it is for superboost...


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

vanislemtbr said:


> Curious if you guys are using dry chain lube? I've been using Squirt and WD-40 dry lubes for dry weather and the chain stays pretty clean. I do lube every ride, let it sit for a few hours and wipe excess before hitting the trails. Although our dry conditions are like talc powder and not very sandy. I got away with a less diligent method previously on non-HP bikes.
> 
> I figured sand wouldn't stick in dry conditions with dry lube. I'm picturing the BETA test of the Dreadnought and the guy out there with lube and a rag. That is just never going to work as it'll be wet all the time and will attract grit.


I use dry lube with good results. I'm going to try method #2 here and one of the 2 recommended lubes to see if there is improvement: NSMB.com - Two Ways To Lube A Chain


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Dingleberrry said:


> Did you mean Melamed? He's a Rocky guy racing on the Altitude I believe.


Oops, yep I messed that up. Thanks for the correction and I hope my point wasn't lost. Just think Kaz is less likely to go out on a limb for a small brand with limited history and racing.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Dingleberrry said:


> I'm with you on Squirt - that stuff has been awesome for me. If you over apply, just leave until morning and excess flakes/falls off. And then there's nothing to stick to. The Beta guy out there lubing a chain mid-ride? I just.. no words. That review has soured me on ever taking him in particular and Beta seriously. What's the wd40 dry lube like? Wax also? I'd try other waxes but once you start Squirtin' you never wanna stop.


WD-40 dry lube has been pretty good, but I reapply between rides so not much of a test. I have found it to be similar to Squirt and only tried it because I found it in my shop and I'm too lazy to get a new bottle of Squirt. This is not an area I've experimented much in.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Frazam said:


> I use dry lube with good results. I'm going to try method #2 here and one of the 2 recommended lubes to see if there is improvement: NSMB.com - Two Ways To Lube A Chain


Excellent, please let us know how it goes. I read this article and had trouble getting through it, but I suspect it's these next level details that can make a difference to your maintenance budget. That's my goal so I can save dollars and get a EXT Storia.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

During the pandemic I was on a chain lube odyssey, used rock-n-roll for probably close to a decade. Went through a lot of new brands. 

They're similar, but I much prefer Smoove over Squirt. Set-up is a little more cumbersome, but i'm impressed with it. 

Recently picked up some SCC Slick (the new wolf tooth lube is a relabeling of it) that I'll try out next.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Love this chain lube talk - personally, I use Silca Super secret. Very quiet and very fast


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

PisgahGnar said:


> They may have moved back to a threaded BB, but still using their Ai spacing on the rear hub. Interesting bike but that's just annoying. Although it's easier to set a current wheelset up for that than it is for superboost...


Yeah, that's true. But at least it's a step in the right direction!

Sent from my LIO-N29 using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Re the new Range - my LBS has a C2 on the floor. Saw it tonight. Holy crap is it beautiful. I had my Druid in too. I should have taken a pic with the drivetrains side by side. Missed opportunity :-(

Re the Druid’s drivetrain - I’ve gone though multiple idlers and lower guide rollers now. It’s noisy this year too. I wish I could quiet it down a bit. I have a really bad reaction to unwanted bike noises. I seem to be about 10x more sensitive than others to mechanical noises - they really mess me up. This bike isn’t great for noise sensitive people like me.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

vanislemtbr said:


> Curious if you guys are using dry chain lube? I've been using Squirt and WD-40 dry lubes for dry weather and the chain stays pretty clean. I do lube every ride, let it sit for a few hours and wipe excess before hitting the trails. Although our dry conditions are like talc powder and not very sandy. I got away with a less diligent method previously on non-HP bikes.
> 
> I figured sand wouldn't stick in dry conditions with dry lube. I'm picturing the BETA test of the Dreadnought and the guy out there with lube and a rag. That is just never going to work as it'll be wet all the time and will attract grit.


It's not the chain. It's the crud that gets behind the spacer on the back side of the idler. I have to pull the whole assembly, clean it, and repack it with grease.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> It's not the chain. It's the crud that gets behind the spacer on the back side of the idler. I have to pull the whole assembly, clean it, and repack it with grease.


That makes sense. I had that issue too when I first had mine. What I did was was either use less greese or pack it and than wipe excess greese. When the bearing has some play in the idler, you'll find that some greese will oozes out after the first ride. Get in the with a rag and wipe it out. I'd suggest you try a light application of greese and see if it helps. Hope this helps.


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## LittleCarrot (Nov 3, 2018)

vanislemtbr said:


> That's a lot of bikes! Maybe you're swapping them over before it becomes an issue. I keep my bikes for awhile, so every fork I've had creaks. I've had a couple double crowns in the 2000s. and they were bombproof. It obviously dependant on the riding style, terrain, crashes, rider weight, etc. That's an awesome record though and I'm crossing my fingers that this new 36 CSU holds up for a couple years.


I have only bought used bikes, which makes me think I should be more susceptible to the creaking


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> It's not the chain. It's the crud that gets behind the spacer on the back side of the idler. I have to pull the whole assembly, clean it, and repack it with grease.


Could still be because you're using too heavy of a lube...


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Does anyone know if the solid-lube bearing in the new idler can be installed in the older idler? My idler current idler is fine wear-wise, and I'd like to have a bearing with less external grease.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> Does anyone know if the solid-lube bearing in the new idler can be installed in the older idler? My idler current idler is fine wear-wise, and I'd like to have a bearing with less external grease.


The stock idler has a sealed cartage bearing, which doesn't need external grease. The external grease is only really needed for the hardware, so a solid lube bearing doesn't eliminate the need for external grease. Maybe I misunderstood your intent.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

vanislemtbr said:


> The stock idler has a sealed cartage bearing, which doesn't need external grease. The external grease is only really needed for the hardware, so a solid lube bearing doesn't eliminate the need for external grease. Maybe I misunderstood your intent.


Yeah, I wasn't super clear. It was my understanding that the backside hardware changed on the new idler, and now doesn't require the 'labyrinth' seal that needs grease. That is the one that has worn a bit on me, so I was hoping I could ditch it if I got the new rear spacer, and the new bearing (which apparently doesn't need the labyrinth seal?). Trying to save a few $, because I already have a spare idler (and my current one isn't too worn), but want the hopefully lower maintenance of the newer system.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hbar said:


> Yeah, I wasn't super clear. It was my understanding that the backside hardware changed on the new idler, and now doesn't require the 'labyrinth' seal that needs grease. That is the one that has worn a bit on me, so I was hoping I could ditch it if I got the new rear spacer, and the new bearing (which apparently doesn't need the labyrinth seal?). Trying to save a few $, because I already have a spare idler (and my current one isn't too worn), but want the hopefully lower maintenance of the newer system.


I see. I think you'll need to buy the full kit to get that spacer, but it might work with your spare pulley (guessing here). Alternatively, you could cut the labyrinth seal off the spacer. I'd try it, but haven't had any issues. Good luck!


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Received word today that my frame is in at Fanatik. Will be shipping out tomorrow. Hopefully the same is true for others that ordered from them.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

vanislemtbr said:


> I've cleaned the threads and reapplied the blue thread locker. I can't recall if I cleaned the threads last time, so I'm hoping this will do it. If not, I'll try red on the last few threads but that makes me nervous.


Update on linkage bolt coming loose - 4 rides and just checked torque. It hasn't come loose yet, so cleaning the threads and loctite blue has done the trick. I'll check again in a month.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

hothb said:


> Could still be because you're using too heavy of a lube...


Why would the weight of the grease determine if grit gets behind the seal?


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

unrealityshow said:


> Why would the weight of the grease determine if grit gets behind the seal?


a lubricant's weight refers to viscosity...


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> Why would the weight of the grease determine if grit gets behind the seal?


In basic terms...if you're getting a lot of gunk collecting on your idler it could be because the lube you're using is acting like a magnet for dirt rather than a seal / repellent. Different lubes have different weights, different viscosities, etc. which can heat up, shrink, get past seals, then when they cool cause creaks.

What lube are you using (is it a wet or dry lube?), how often are you cleaning the drivetrain, and how are you cleaning it?

Something seams off if you're getting dirt inside the seal after just one ride...


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

So I picked up an xl Druid. Super stoked. 
planning on using my components from my smash. 
forbidden specs a 44mm offset fork. Mine is a 51. Anyone running a longer offset fork?


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> So I picked up an xl Druid. Super stoked.
> planning on using my components from my smash.
> forbidden specs a 44mm offset fork. Mine is a 51. Anyone running a longer offset fork?


I ran the Druid with both a Cane Creek Helm 51mm offset at 150mm and briefly a 2020 Fox 36 Grip2 44mm offset. Maybe I'm not the best fork tester as I've generally been hesitant to switch over to "modern" short offset, but I found plenty of benefit for the longer offset, especially for slower/techier maneuvers (which tended to bring out/exacerbate the Druid's lack of manual-ability) -- the short offset fork wanted to hang up more when the long offset could wiggle around a rock a tiny bit quicker. There were moments where short offset was noticeable, though. On long, high-speed chunky sections the short offset kind of "calmed" the front end a bit and made it more forgiving/easy to steer straight, although I found that with a little more effort/focus I could get the long offset fork to do the same thing. In stretched-out, sweeping corners the long offset almost wanted to oversteer while the short offset would let me dive in without overcooking it.

When Transition came out with SBG and several other brands (Mondraker?) were getting big on short offset forks a few years back, I remember hearing a lot about how the shorter offset forks would help mitigate the wheel flop of long/slack bikes that had historically been a major drawback when pedaling them uphill. My sense is that this initial assumption really had less to do w/ the fork than with seat angle: steeper seat angles mean more weight forward on the bars, which means a more stable pedaling positions, which means less wheel flop. With the right seat angle and cockpit position, your weight will be properly balanced and your fork will not feel floppy. And, all else being equal with geometry and cockpit setup, I think the quicker turning of the long offset makes a 51mm offset fork a better climber.

While we're on the subject of climbing, I know this has been mentioned before but I truly think the Druid is one of the best-climbing trail bikes on the market. It consistently astounded me how little movement the suspension had under pedaling and yet how consistently it could maintain traction on the greasiest, steepest roots. I think so much conversation centers around the idler pulley and whether it's an efficiency suck that onlookers/inquirers forget how amazing the pedaling characteristics of an HSP bike can be. It's hard to even compare it to other suspension designs in that regard.

Cheers to Pyro-Man for the new Druid (formerly mine ). I'm waiting on a Dreadnought due early next week with bated breath, but missing my sweet Druid already.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Hello everyone - wanted to let you know I received the “Forbidden Druid Link - B1” from Cascade and installed it - absolutely no clearance issue w/ the Push 11-6. If anyone is interested, I have the original Cascade Link now available for sale in the chrome finish (did fit my 11-6, barely, as well as my DPX2). Shoot me a DM if you’re interested - $100?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> Hello everyone - wanted to let you know I received the "Forbidden Druid Link - B1" from Cascade and installed it - absolutely no clearance issue w/ the Push 11-6. If anyone is interested, I have the original Cascade Link now available for sale in the chrome finish (did fit my 11-6, barely, as well as my DPX2). Shoot me a DM if you're interested - $100?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Awesome. Hows the link feel?

What size fork you running?


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

gubbinalia said:


> I ran the Druid with both a Cane Creek Helm 51mm offset at 150mm and briefly a 2020 Fox 36 Grip2 44mm offset. Maybe I'm not the best fork tester as I've generally been hesitant to switch over to "modern" short offset, but I found plenty of benefit for the longer offset, especially for slower/techier maneuvers (which tended to bring out/exacerbate the Druid's lack of manual-ability) -- the short offset fork wanted to hang up more when the long offset could wiggle around a rock a tiny bit quicker. There were moments where short offset was noticeable, though. On long, high-speed chunky sections the short offset kind of "calmed" the front end a bit and made it more forgiving/easy to steer straight, although I found that with a little more effort/focus I could get the long offset fork to do the same thing. In stretched-out, sweeping corners the long offset almost wanted to oversteer while the short offset would let me dive in without overcooking it.
> 
> When Transition came out with SBG and several other brands (Mondraker?) were getting big on short offset forks a few years back, I remember hearing a lot about how the shorter offset forks would help mitigate the wheel flop of long/slack bikes that had historically been a major drawback when pedaling them uphill. My sense is that this initial assumption really had less to do w/ the fork than with seat angle: steeper seat angles mean more weight forward on the bars, which means a more stable pedaling positions, which means less wheel flop. With the right seat angle and cockpit position, your weight will be properly balanced and your fork will not feel floppy. And, all else being equal with geometry and cockpit setup, I think the quicker turning of the long offset makes a 51mm offset fork a better climber.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the solid breakdown on that. I'm itching for the frame to come tomorrow. Bought way too many parts for it already! Ridewrap is going to be a nightmare.

(also hate this username but made it a loooong time ago when i joined MTBR in middle school i think?)


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

hothb said:


> Awesome. Hows the link feel?
> 
> What size fork you running?


I love the link - but there's no difference between this new one and the old one, except clearance. I have an Avy tuned Bomber CR on the way so I'll update the group re: clearance when that arrives.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> Hello everyone - wanted to let you know I received the "Forbidden Druid Link - B1" from Cascade and installed it - absolutely no clearance issue w/ the Push 11-6. If anyone is interested, I have the original Cascade Link now available for sale in the chrome finish (did fit my 11-6, barely, as well as my DPX2). Shoot me a DM if you're interested - $100?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


My 1st gen 11-6 didn't fit the first link but I'll also update the group once my B1 arrives as to whether it works the second time round. It shipped yesterday, looking forward to seeing it installed!


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## stonant (Mar 11, 2016)

Anyone here switch to a Druid after owning a 27.5 trail bike? Currently on a 5010 v2 that I've overforked, and strongly considering going mullet druid for my next bike. I'm also right between L and XL sizes and was wondering if anyone went with an XL over an L. I'm leaning XL for reach purposes, I've got a bit of an ape index.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

hothb said:


> In basic terms...if you're getting a lot of gunk collecting on your idler it could be because the lube you're using is acting like a magnet for dirt rather than a seal / repellent. Different lubes have different weights, different viscosities, etc. which can heat up, shrink, get past seals, then when they cool cause creaks.
> 
> What lube are you using (is it a wet or dry lube?), how often are you cleaning the drivetrain, and how are you cleaning it?
> 
> Something seams off if you're getting dirt inside the seal after just one ride...


It's not gunk on the idler, it's gunk in the idler. Dirt collects between the rear spacer and the idler. I have to pull it apart every ten miles to clean it. The arrows in the picture indicate where the nastiness collects.









Its louder more quickly if I don't pack all of that with grease.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

unrealityshow said:


> It's not gunk on the idler, it's gunk in the idler. Dirt collects between the rear spacer and the idler. I have to pull it apart every ten miles to clean it. The arrows in the picture indicate where the nastiness collects.
> View attachment 1937317
> 
> 
> Its louder more quickly if I don't pack all of that with grease.


OK&#8230; that's what my pull link looks like where it attaches to the swing arm. My idler is nowhere near that bad. What's your terrain like to bring enough small particulates up onto the idler seal interface? Moon dust? I thought the PNW pulverized granite sand was bad&#8230;


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

I live on the front range of Colorado, so I mostly have decomposing granite, with some clay.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> I live on the front range of Colorado, so I mostly have decomposing granite, with some clay.


Does the idler bearing have a lot of lateral play? That's a lot of wear on the anodized parts (both the idler and the spacer/seal). I'm on the front range, too, and am on my second idler. The first didn't wear near that much, but did wear some in those areas. You look like a prime candidate for the new idler design!


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

hbar said:


> Does the idler bearing have a lot of lateral play? That's a lot of wear on the anodized parts (both the idler and the spacer/seal). I'm on the front range, too, and am on my second idler. The first didn't wear near that much, but did wear some in those areas. You look like a prime candidate for the new idler design!


When it's all together it's tight. I have the new NSB on order, I do hope it eliminates this problem.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Just got the new NSB idler. Looks like it will solve most of my problems. Very much look forward to trying it out, but that won’t be until Wednesday at the earliest. Being an adult with responsibilities sucks.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

I had an amazing day of riding yesterday in Cumberland. It’s truly worth a trip and I could spent 3-4 days easy to finds all the trails. The Druid went home and had a blast. Posting to show a comparison between the WD-40 dry lube and the Squirt.

WD-40 dry lube never actually drys and I found had to wipe before the ride a few times to get things less goopy. Pic after 14km and 500m elevation in Victoria. Dry dust conditions.

Squirt Original applied the day before the ride and forgot to wipe off. Pic (more from the top of the idler) after 43km and 1300m of elevation in Cumberland. Dry and Dust conditions.

Both lubes did the job but the Squirt impressed with a long day and less grit on the chain after the ride. Neither really had loud drivetrain noises, but I could hear more sound with the WD-40.

Cheers


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> It's not gunk on the idler, it's gunk in the idler. Dirt collects between the rear spacer and the idler. I have to pull it apart every ten miles to clean it. The arrows in the picture indicate where the nastiness collects.
> View attachment 1937317
> 
> 
> Its louder more quickly if I don't pack all of that with grease.


This looks just like mine, I'd consider this normal from what I'll scene. Hope the NSB versions work better.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I haven't posted about the bike really since last April but I finally hit 1k PNW miles between galbi, chuckanut and local trails. Did a tear down at 850 miles to clean up the wet riding squeaks, replace the lower roller and dang this bike is great. A few scratches, but nothing too terrible and I'm on the original idler. I'm not kind to this thing though my XM481 rear wheel's sidewall started to bend so WAO Unions enroute.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

vanislemtbr said:


> I had an amazing day of riding yesterday in Cumberland. It's truly worth a trip and I could spent 3-4 days easy to finds all the trails. The Druid went home and had a blast. Posting to show a comparison between the WD-40 dry lube and the Squirt.
> 
> WD-40 dry lube never actually drys and I found had to wipe before the ride a few times to get things less goopy. Pic after 14km and 500m elevation in Victoria. Dry dust conditions.
> 
> ...


All of that wear is less than 100 miles, with cleaning and lubing every ten to fifteen. That said, I really do think the new NSB idler will take care of my issues.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

unrealityshow said:


> All of that wear is less than 100 miles, with cleaning and lubing every ten to fifteen. That said, I really do think the new NSB idler will take care of my issues.


Did you buy the aluminum one?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

johnsogr said:


> Did you buy the aluminum one?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, but if this takes care of my noise problem, I'm ordering a stainless one.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I have a stainless on order but I have never experienced the issues discussed here. I am on my third idler but it's always been chunky bearings for me. Or maybe that IS the same issue&#8230;

I don't think it is, is it?

Anyway, I'm putting a fair amount of mileage on that bike so it's not all that surprising.

Just got back from day 4 in a row. Man. That bike never ceases to amaze me. And the AXS I recently installed is over the top incredible. As is the Assegai/Dissector combo.

Really really happy with this bike right now. This is season 3 on it and I have never been happier.










PS - my LBS has some Dreadnoughts and Druid mullets in stock now. Speaking with a bunch there, I'm still very happy I am on a Druid.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I just spent the last two days riding Whistler bike park on my Druid and it performed admirably. It's been about 8 years since I last rode here on a Knolly podium with a fox 40. I don't miss the DH bike at all. I've got an Ext Storia on the back of the Druid and it ate up everything I threw at it.

I am still rusty with the table top jumps but I had a blast riding the steep technical trails like Misfire and Angry Pirate.

I really need to take my Fox 36 in for servicing .


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have a stainless on order but I have never experienced the issues discussed here. I am on my third idler but it's always been chunky bearings for me. Or maybe that IS the same issue&#8230;
> 
> I don't think it is, is it?
> 
> ...


Please do not take my complaints as I don't like riding the bike. I love how my Druid handles terrain, and the fact that I can clean some climbs I haven't in the past makes me feel so much better about myself. Having the Druid in my life has made me re-think my Santa Cruz loyalty. I really like this bike, which is why the maintenance issue is so frustrating.

I do think the crunchy bearings is related to the grinding noises I get when the assembly is dirty. I had to replace the bearing in my idler after my first (albeit very wet) ride. I think the new NSB idler spacer won't collect debris and hold it in like the old style labyrinth seal does.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> Please do not take my complaints as I don't like riding the bike. I love how my Druid handles terrain, and the fact that I can clean some climbs I haven't in the past makes me feel so much better about myself. Having the Druid in my life has made me re-think my Santa Cruz loyalty. I really like this bike, which is why the maintenance issue is so frustrating.
> 
> I do think the crunchy bearings is related to the grinding noises I get when the assembly is dirty. I had to replace the bearing in my idler after my first (albeit very wet) ride. I think the new NSB idler spacer won't collect debris and hold it in like the old style labyrinth seal does.


I didn't take it that way at all. There have been times I have been a little frustrated myself with the extra complications that I sometimes think come with the HSP drivetrain. But I still love this bike, complications and all.

My bigger concern is that according to my Garmin, I recently hit 105.8F (41C) on it. Yikes!


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

After having to drill out the olive on my rear brake I finally got my new to me Druid built up. It's an xl running 30t up front and 11-48 xtr 11 speed in the rear. Recommended chain length for an xl is 132 if running 32t/12 speed. I'm running 129 links (126 + quick link +1 + quick link). Drivetrain feels really rough. Any longer of a chain and the b tension maxed out still doesn't tension in the smallest gear. Any ideas? Chain line is right at 52mm spec.
















With 131 links (126 + quick link + 3 + quick link)


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> After having to drill out the olive on my rear brake I finally got my new to me Druid built up. It's an xl running 30t up front and 11-48 xtr 11 speed in the rear. Recommended chain length for an xl is 132 if running 32t/12 speed. I'm running 129 links (126 + quick link +1 + quick link). Drivetrain feels really rough. Any longer of a chain and the b tension maxed out still doesn't tension in the smallest gear. Any ideas? Chain line is right at 52mm spec.
> View attachment 1937780
> 
> View attachment 1937781
> ...


Looks like a shorter cage (11-speed, so makes sense) and a little less wrap on the chain guide than mine. Check the link count and then start removing links.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

vanislemtbr said:


> Looks like a shorter cage (11-speed, so makes sense) and a little less wrap on the chain guide than mine. Check the link count and then start removing links.


You could/should also deflate the shock and check derailleur function in the 48t at full travel. That's the one where you might tear the derailleur off if your chain is too short. As for the recommended chain length I think that's with a 32 x 51 drivetrain. I bet you'll need to pull 4-6 links from recommend, so 2-4 more.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Agreed, their recommended chain lengths are certainly generous 


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

vanislemtbr said:


> Looks like a shorter cage (11-speed, so makes sense) and a little less wrap on the chain guide than mine. Check the link count and then start removing links.


Indeed shorter cage. its the medium xtr cage i believe. That photo with the droop was 131 links. currently at 129. Debating trying just a stock 126 length.



Dingleberrry said:


> You could/should also deflate the shock and check derailleur function in the 48t at full travel. That's the one where you might tear the derailleur off if your chain is too short. As for the recommended chain length I think that's with a 32 x 51 drivetrain. I bet you'll need to pull 4-6 links from recommend, so 2-4 more.


Currently at 129. going to try 126, pull the shock out (coil now), and see what full travel does.
Something just feels funky like you can feel every chain link rolling/rumbling across the idler. Feels almost crunchy? Maybe thats just the noise/feeling people were saying you get used to?
Photo with current chain length















In


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Indeed shorter cage. its the medium xtr cage i believe. That photo with the droop was 131 links. currently at 129. Debating trying just a stock 126 length.
> 
> Currently at 129. going to try 126, pull the shock out (coil now), and see what full travel does.
> Something just feels funky like you can feel every chain link rolling/rumbling across the idler. Maybe thats just the noise/feeling people were saying you get used to?
> ...


If the chain is laying on the chain guard, it's typically the b-screw. The sound can be from a new chain and older pulley/cassette, which will go away in a couple rides as things work in. Alternatively, you replace everything at the same time.$$$
The Druid is sensitive to drivetrain imperfections, but is solid once you get it meshing and lubricated. Nice build BTW!


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

vanislemtbr said:


> If the chain is laying on the chain guard, it's typically the b-screw. The sound can be from a new chain and older pulley/cassette, which will go away in a couple rides as things work in. Alternatively, you replace everything at the same time.$$$
> The Druid is sensitive to drivetrain imperfections, but is solid once you get it meshing and lubricated. Nice build BTW!


Yeah i was afraid to go any shorter with the chain. The b screw at 129 links is over half way/two thirds screwed in. at 131 fully maxed b tension chain was still loose. I was wondering about new chain/old cassette but it seemed much worse than i've experienced in the past. Might be time for a new cassette. 
Thanks! i swapped 95% of the build over from my smash. Was a bit concerned about all the red with the turquoise decals but actually kind of dig it. 
Its wild how different this feels than the smash. Also coming off a 520 reach Smash I thought the druid was going to feel small in the cockpit. So far feels pretty roomy. The numbers don't do the geo justice.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

unrealityshow said:


> It's not gunk on the idler, it's gunk in the idler. Dirt collects between the rear spacer and the idler. I have to pull it apart every ten miles to clean it. The arrows in the picture indicate where the nastiness collects.
> View attachment 1937317
> 
> 
> Its louder more quickly if I don't pack all of that with grease.


Also in the front range and have the same issue. Clean it quite often.

Cant wait for the SS one.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

the only way to have an odd number of links is to use a half link chain....like a bmx bike uses.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

tdc_worm said:


> the only way to have an odd number of links is to use a half link chain....like a bmx bike uses.


You're right - i'm at 128. I was counting the first quick link on top of the 126. In reality its 125 + one link + 2 quick links. Going to try bumping down to 126 today.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> You're right - i'm at 128. I was counting the first quick link on top of the 126. In reality its 125 + one link + 2 quick links. Going to try bumping down to 126 today.


The idler has a narrow wide profile too. Mine skipped once on a ride and it was quite noisy. The worn idler with a different chain may be causing excess noise too.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

ALS650L said:


> The idler has a narrow wide profile too. Mine skipped once on a ride and it was quite noisy. The worn idler with a different chain may be causing excess noise too.


Does the narrow wide need to be set on the chain a certain way? I took a decade off riding and lets just say things have... changed.

30 seconds of google and i feel like an idiot.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> You're right - i'm at 128. I was counting the first quick link on top of the 126. In reality its 125 + one link + 2 quick links. Going to try bumping down to 126 today.


FYI - I'm on a large using a 126 link chain, 30 front ring, and a 10-51 cassette (ie. longer cage). You'll be fine dropping some links.


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

I'm curious if that is causing premature wear. For the last 1k miles I've been using a 130 link shimano and it hasn't worn anything as fast as I've heard from here.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

vanislemtbr said:


> FYI - I'm on a large using a 126 link chain, 30 front ring, and a 10-51 cassette (ie. longer cage). You'll be fine dropping some links.


Hmm so wondering since I'm on an xl if the few extra are needed


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Does the narrow wide need to be set on the chain a certain way? I took a decade off riding and lets just say things have... changed.
> 
> 30 seconds of google and i feel like an idiot.


oh man - this is a fantastic story! well, welcome back! the trails are a bit busier, but the bikes are far better - particularly this one.
as for chain length, I think they were trying to size the chain to give maximum wrap with the bike uncompressed in the 51t cog and with minimal b-tension.


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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

Hey folks, happy to report the Cascade Components B1 link works (barely) with my 1st gen 11-6 on my large Druid. I’ll post some feedback later if anyone’s interested in the upgrade. I’ll be using my DPX2 until a heavier spring arrives, but I’m curious to see both the new link and the air shock in action, I’ve had the 11-6 in since I received the frame.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Saying screw it and picking up a new cassette, chainring and jockey wheels today. Anyone had any luck with oval rings? 
I've read a few things on here about the clocking and issues, so curious what people ended up with. Planning to go round, but an oval sounds really interesting and if people have been successful will go that way.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Saying screw it and picking up a new cassette, chainring and jockey wheels today. Anyone had any luck with oval rings?
> I've read a few things on here about the clocking and issues, so curious what people ended up with. Planning to go round, but an oval sounds really interesting and if people have been successful will go that way.


You'll need a ring that can clock forwards about 90 degrees forward from normal. I really like oval rings, but haven't been able to find one I can clock out of phase that's shimano compatible.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> You'll need a ring that can clock forwards about 90 degrees forward from normal. I really like oval rings, but haven't been able to find one I can clock out of phase that's shimano compatible.


I was looking at doing this and wondering if the 1-up Switch system would work for clocking? Haven't confirmed and ended up just getting a 30t round ring.
SWITCH - SHIMANO - OneUp Components CA


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

armyofevilrobots said:


> You'll need a ring that can clock forwards about 90 degrees forward from normal. I really like oval rings, but haven't been able to find one I can clock out of phase that's shimano compatible.


Good to know. Is that the sweet spot? 90* forward? I think I can pull that off with the raceface Cinch.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Update - went to 126 link (single full chain), new cassette, waiting on new jockey wheels and chainring. So far feels better. Put the dpx2 back in, dropped to 0psi and compressed in the largest cog. Deraileur still had a bit of room to move so i don't think it'll be an issue. The chain seems TIGHT with the clutch engaged on the largest cog, but adding links to go 128 causes the b tension to need to be cranked waaay up to the point where it seemed links needed to come out. I'm either an idiot or overthinking this. Seems like quite a bit of extra force needed to spin in the stand in the largest cog compared to smaller. For reference this is still 11 speed XTR, 126 link chain, RF 30t NW chainring, XL druid.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Good to know. Is that the sweet spot? 90* forward? I think I can pull that off with the raceface Cinch.


If you have cinch try forward ~67 or 6 spaces. Idk if 90 is accurate.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Update - went to 126 link (single full chain), new cassette, waiting on new jockey wheels and chainring. So far feels better. Put the dpx2 back in, dropped to 0psi and compressed in the largest cog. Deraileur still had a bit of room to move so i don't think it'll be an issue. The chain seems TIGHT with the clutch engaged on the largest cog, but adding links to go 128 causes the b tension to need to be cranked waaay up to the point where it seemed links needed to come out. I'm either an idiot or overthinking this. Seems like quite a bit of extra force needed to spin in the stand in the largest cog compared to smaller. For reference this is still 11 speed XTR, 126 link chain, RF 30t NW chainring, XL druid.


On the stand and in the largest chainring, I had the same observation/concern. On the trail, I don't notice it. The idler and chain guide adds drag but it's small.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

johnsogr said:


> Hello everyone - wanted to let you know I received the "Forbidden Druid Link - B1" from Cascade and installed it - absolutely no clearance issue w/ the Push 11-6. If anyone is interested, I have the original Cascade Link now available for sale in the chrome finish (did fit my 11-6, barely, as well as my DPX2). Shoot me a DM if you're interested - $100?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Cool! Which generation 11-6 are you running?


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Got a ride with the new NSB idler, and I think it solved the issue. I rode a trail with lots of water crossings, and didn’t hear any grinding. I’m really happy with the new idler design.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Thrawn said:


> Cool! Which generation 11-6 are you running?


The latest one, 11-6R

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

vanislemtbr said:


> On the stand and in the largest chainring, I had the same observation/concern. On the trail, I don't notice it. The idler and chain guide adds drag but it's small.


I ended up moving my chainguide to mimic "recommended installation" which took some chain slack up, replaced my jockey wheels, went to 128 links and it rode great. Still feels like there is something dragging/rumbling in the driveline that isn't the idler or the b-tension being too low. Going to put a new chainring on since mine is pretty beat and see if that takes care of it.

Went on its first real ride yesterday. This bike likes going *FAST*. Wasn't super impressed at first, then opened it up. The faster you go the better it gets. I was launching into loose rocky turns, pushing into the bike and it just rockets out. I've never slid into so many corners in my life in one ride.
Climbing is a weird feeling. You expect the hangups and they just don't happen. With the push in "climb" mode you lose that for sure. It does seem in a weird way that my 30t/11-46 feels harder to pedal in the same gears than my GG did. Like the idler changes the ratio somehow even though that makes no sense. But holy mountain goat of a bike. 
Once you're at speed this thing is a missile and had 0 issues jumping, hoonin around, etc. Low speed, still not sure if its shock settings or just getting used to the bike.

For those of you running an 11-6, how many rebound clicks are you running? I went dead center of the 20 clicks to start.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

I am running the MRP lower guide. Bike is an XL with 34t front ring, 10-52t cassette 128 links.

So far it _feels_ less draggy, but that could just be my ownership goggles. One thing for sure: the MRP lower guide eliminates the clunky feeling of the two SRAM power lock links bending backwards over the E13 lower guide. There is definitely less noise, and no apparatus to have to bend out of contact with your rear tire after impact.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

So I have been running the MRP guide, and lost the chain twice with hard, out-of-the-saddle efforts. I find this highly annoying as this nearly caused me to go OTB twice. I’ve now gone back to the stock, E13 guide.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

96go22v said:


> My 1st gen 11-6 didn't fit the first link but I'll also update the group once my B1 arrives as to whether it works the second time round. It shipped yesterday, looking forward to seeing it installed!


Any luck with the first gen 11-6 on the updated Cascade link?


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

johnsogr said:


> So I have been running the MRP guide, and lost the chain twice with hard, out-of-the-saddle efforts. I find this highly annoying as this nearly caused me to go OTB twice. I've now gone back to the stock, E13 guide.


Can you share frame size and number of links? I think this is relevant....all frames use the same swingarm. different CS lengths are achieved on each size by moving the swingarm fore/aft to get desired lengths. Consequently, the smaller the size, the lesser the chain wrap.

Also, did it drop out of the idler upper guide? I have had this happen several times.


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## kingofbiscuits (May 30, 2012)

I’ve fitted the NSB Alu idler today and rode a nice 30k loop with 850M of ascent/descent taking in greasy, muddy woodland, loamy woodland and rocky, sandy moorland. All in the rain. UK summer eh?

Firstly, it’s quiet. Silenced is restored. Just a faint purr from the drivetrain.

Secondly, it shrugged off the today’s conditions. Usually it would have flushed grease and perhaps contaminated the grease with dirt, mud, grit in and around the idler. It didn’t seem to suffer from that.

Finally it felt nice and smooth straight away. No resistance. Subsequently shifting felt good too.

Obviously early days. This is my third idler in just under a year. No.1 offered 750k. No.2 1000k. The new NSB idler I’d like even more from. I’m also happy with the fact that it should need significantly less maintenance.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

tdc_worm said:


> Can you share frame size and number of links? I think this is relevant....all frames use the same swingarm. different CS lengths are achieved on each size by moving the swingarm fore/aft to get desired lengths. Consequently, the smaller the size, the lesser the chain wrap.
> 
> Also, did it drop out of the idler upper guide? I have had this happen several times.


It's a large, and I had 126 links. It didn't come off the idler, so I'm not sure where I'm losing it. Disappointed as I don't like the drag from the guide

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## 96go22v (Aug 13, 2020)

Thrawn said:


> Any luck with the first gen 11-6 on the updated Cascade link?


It fits! I posted as much a few days ago; my large Druid and 1st gen work with the B1 without issue, thought it's close. I waited to see if it would fit before I ordered a heavier spring (arrives Thursday) so have been riding with my dpx2 installed while I wait for the new spring. I like the upgrade but really miss my coil, which in itself was fun to find out - I'd never ridden the Druid with an air shock. 
I understand people who say these upgrades are trying to turn the Druid into something it isn't, but for my daily driver, I really think I'd be struggling on a lot of the tighter trails here in New England on a dreadnought. Plus availability is a thing.
Long story short, so far I'm digging the cascade and do feel the extra travel. The jury is out on how the progression is different until I put the elevensix back on.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

96go22v said:


> It fits! I posted as much a few days ago; my large Druid and 1st gen work with the B1 without issue, thought it's close. I waited to see if it would fit before I ordered a heavier spring (arrives Thursday) so have been riding with my dpx2 installed while I wait for the new spring. I like the upgrade but really miss my coil, which in itself was fun to find out - I'd never ridden the Druid with an air shock.
> I understand people who say these upgrades are trying to turn the Druid into something it isn't, but for my daily driver, I really think I'd be struggling on a lot of the tighter trails here in New England on a dreadnought. Plus availability is a thing.
> Long story short, so far I'm digging the cascade and do feel the extra travel. The jury is out on how the progression is different until I put the elevensix back on.


I've got my ElevenSix on the first link (slight Dremel mod). It's totally noticeable upgrade. I def notice the progression increase most on drops and landings. I also boosted the fork to 160 which balances well. But even just all around better ride feel for trail spectrum I ride. Just finished some rough trail descents in Jackson Hole area. Was able to just point and shoot pretty well with limited arm pump and more confidence.

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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Maiden voyage later today on my freshly built up Druid. No trails or parking lots here, going straight to a park. Hopefully all goes well.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

tdc_worm said:


> Can you share frame size and number of links? I think this is relevant....all frames use the same swingarm. different CS lengths are achieved on each size by moving the swingarm fore/aft to get desired lengths. Consequently, the smaller the size, the lesser the chain wrap.
> 
> Also, did it drop out of the idler upper guide? I have had this happen several times.


Hey all, I'd be careful about deviating too far from recommended chain lengths. It would be worth checking derailleur fit in your largest rear cog with shock deflated at full compression


tdc_worm said:


> Can you share frame size and number of links? I think this is relevant....all frames use the same swingarm. different CS lengths are achieved on each size by moving the swingarm fore/aft to get desired lengths. Consequently, the smaller the size, the lesser the chain wrap.
> 
> Also, did it drop out of the idler upper guide? I have had this happen several times.


Hey all, I'd be careful about deviating too far from recommended chain lengths. It would be worth checking derailleur fit in your largest rear cog with shock deflated at full compression given the considerable rearward axle path and corresponding chain growth. The bike probably has a relatively small window of chain length. Go too short and you run the risk of ripping off your derailleur and or damaging carbon at the hanger. Removing the lower guide might mean you need to shorten it further though.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

erdawe said:


> If you have cinch try forward ~67 or 6 spaces. Idk if 90 is accurate.


My bad, I was spitballing. I just took a quick measurement and @erdawe is about right.
To be clear, I'm not running an oval ring (despite liking them) because you can't clock a shimano spline, and I have XT cranks.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

I've been running 126 links on a large with out the lower tensioner. Haven't had a single chain drop. I'm using a XTR 12sp chain with a Wolf Tooth 30t ring designed for 12sp. Perhaps size and brand of ring matter?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Hey everyone,

I was wondering if anyone here knows Forbidden’s crash replacement policy for second owners? I’m thinking of trading for a Druid and just hoping for some piece of mind.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I was wondering if anyone here knows Forbidden's crash replacement policy for second owners? I'm thinking of trading for a Druid and just hoping for some piece of mind.


give them a call and see what they say.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Dingleberrry said:


> Hey all, I'd be careful about deviating too far from recommended chain lengths. It would be worth checking derailleur fit in your largest rear cog with shock deflated at full compression given the considerable rearward axle path and corresponding chain growth. The bike probably has a relatively small window of chain length. Go too short and you run the risk of ripping off your derailleur and or damaging carbon at the hanger. Removing the lower guide might mean you need to shorten it further though.


i've never set a chain length off of a recommendation from a website. i've always set it by doing exactly what you suggested and for the reasons you suggested. 128 links of 34/52 has adequate chain length on an XL with an MRP lower guide. andddddd.... if i am ever doing a maneuver in the 52t gear which results in over whelming the chain, then i have problems other than just bike set up haha.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

My build so far. Still working out the chain length since I'm running a 10-45 cassette and a medium cage derailleur. Dropper post is also temporary until my new 9point8 R shows up.

Bike has been sweet so far. Handles a lot better than my Mondraker Foxy in the turns and in the air (I think the shorter reach helps a lot here), but it doesn't seem as fast as the Foxy in the straights (which could be due to the sticky tires). Need to get more rides in, and need to dial in the drivetrain.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

Three rides on my new Druid (size large), and each time I come home the b tension seems to have undone itself. I set it per Forbidden's instructions before I ride, and then it ends up slack in the smallest cog when I get home. I notice some poor shifting while riding, but my rides are almost always downhill to the car so I'm not trying to get into the 50 tooth at the end of the day. After quadruple counting this morning I realized I somehow used only 128 links instead of the recommended 130 for my frame size. I'll put the extra links on, but is there anything else I should consider adjusting? It'll be a few days before I can get back out and see if my problem is solved. Large druid, all the stock guides and pulleys, with 10-50 GX AXS.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

PisgahGnar said:


> Three rides on my new Druid (size large), and each time I come home the b tension seems to have undone itself. I set it per Forbidden's instructions before I ride, and then it ends up slack in the smallest cog when I get home. I notice some poor shifting while riding, but my rides are almost always downhill to the car so I'm not trying to get into the 50 tooth at the end of the day. After quadruple counting this morning I realized I somehow used only 128 links instead of the recommended 130 for my frame size. I'll put the extra links on, but is there anything else I should consider adjusting? It'll be a few days before I can get back out and see if my problem is solved. Large druid, all the stock guides and pulleys, with 10-50 GX AXS.


Not seeing how the b screw backing off relates to number on links. Loctite 222 on the b screw should fix the issue.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

vanislemtbr said:


> Not seeing how the b screw backing off relates to number on links. Loctite 222 on the b screw should fix the issue.


Yeah, should've mentioned loctite will be liberally applied. I don't understand why SRAM made the decision to have the b screw go through the new battery cover. You have to remove it to get the battery out then reset the tension. I'll probably just not even use the cover, doubt it's necessary.


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## SouthPoleJoe (Jul 12, 2021)

Hey guys, could anybody tell me the codenumbers of the tunes used in the first generation DPX2 shock and the updated tune for the second gen Druids?

My shock needs a service and i would like to change the tune to the lighter one as i am only 70kgs...
No answer from Forbidden so far...could anybody help?


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

SouthPoleJoe said:


> Hey guys, could anybody tell me the codenumbers of the tunes used in the first generation DPX2 shock and the updated tune for the second gen Druids?
> 
> My shock needs a service and i would like to change the tune to the lighter one as i am only 70kgs...
> No answer from Forbidden so far...could anybody help?


The current DPX2 is D4TZ


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

SouthPoleJoe said:


> Hey guys, could anybody tell me the codenumbers of the tunes used in the first generation DPX2 shock and the updated tune for the second gen Druids?
> 
> My shock needs a service and i would like to change the tune to the lighter one as i am only 70kgs...
> No answer from Forbidden so far...could anybody help?


What's the difference between the two DPX2 tunes? Will have a look at my first generation for you when I'm home.


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## SouthPoleJoe (Jul 12, 2021)

Thanks @ PisgahGnar!

Someone here wrote that he let Fox change the old tune to the newer even lighter tune to get the rear end more lively.

Thought that would be a nice idea to do when the shock is already at Fox fot the service


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

SouthPoleJoe said:


> Thanks @ PisgahGnar!
> 
> Someone here wrote that he let Fox change the old tune to the newer even lighter tune to get the rear end more lively.
> 
> Thought that would be a nice idea to do when the shock is already at Fox fot the service


There's a new tune for the DPX2 on the Druid?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> There's a new tune for the DPX2 on the Druid?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My DPX2 is in at Suspension Werx for service and tuning. Current tune is D552 and I've shared the new tune number (D4TZ) with them. I'll keep you all posted.
Also, picking up the Cascade link today!

- June 2020 Large Druid XT Build


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

vanislemtbr said:


> My DPX2 is in at Suspension Werx for service and tuning. Current tune is D552 and I've shared the new tune number (D4TZ) with them. I'll keep you all posted.
> Also, picking up the Cascade link today!
> 
> - June 2020 Large Druid XT Build


Not much of a difference.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> You'll need a ring that can clock forwards about 90 degrees forward from normal. I really like oval rings, but haven't been able to find one I can clock out of phase that's shimano compatible.


I don't understand this. Oval's are attempting to increase/ decrease gear ratio based on crank position to best utilize the strengths/ weaknesses of a particular leg position, so I don't understand the above statement.

Can you explain this?

Thanks.


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## theclawNZ (Mar 29, 2014)

It's because of the angle that the chain arrives at the chainring due to the idler. It's roughly 90 degrees clockwise to a "traditional" bike

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> There's a new tune for the DPX2 on the Druid?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Suspension Werx contacted me regarding my DPX2 service. The "new tune" is a slightly larger air can, which would have minimal performance benefit and is an $85 charge. They are recommending a coil, as the compression tune can't be lighter. Evidently I'm bottoming out the suspension regularly, which is resulting in bent shims and a damaged bumper. Therefore, a lighter compression is just going to make that worse. The initial stiction of the DPX2 with the Druid's leverage curve makes for the harshness I've been feeling.

Hopefully the fresh service with the cascade link will keep me happy while I save up for a coil. In the meantime, I'll be adding compression and psi to avoid bottoming out.

Cheers


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

vanislemtbr said:


> Suspension Werx contacted me regarding my DPX2 service. The "new tune" is a slightly larger air can, which would have minimal performance benefit and is an $85 charge. They are recommending a coil, as the compression tune can't be lighter. Evidently I'm bottoming out the suspension regularly, which is resulting in bent shims and a damaged bumper. Therefore, a lighter compression is just going to make that worse. The initial stiction of the DPX2 with the Druid's leverage curve makes for the harshness I've been feeling.
> 
> Hopefully the fresh service with the cascade link will keep me happy while I save up for a coil. In the meantime, I'll be adding compression and psi to avoid bottoming out.
> 
> Cheers


I upgraded to an Ext Storia from Alba distribution in Squamish. They tune it specially for the Druid on request. The downside is it costs $1300.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

vanislemtbr said:


> Suspension Werx contacted me regarding my DPX2 service. The "new tune" is a slightly larger air can, which would have minimal performance benefit and is an $85 charge. They are recommending a coil, as the compression tune can't be lighter. Evidently I'm bottoming out the suspension regularly, which is resulting in bent shims and a damaged bumper. Therefore, a lighter compression is just going to make that worse. The initial stiction of the DPX2 with the Druid's leverage curve makes for the harshness I've been feeling.
> 
> Hopefully the fresh service with the cascade link will keep me happy while I save up for a coil. In the meantime, I'll be adding compression and psi to avoid bottoming out.
> 
> Cheers


What about a larger spacer instead of higher pressure or compression which will harshen the entire stroke? Cascade will definitely help

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

meeeeep said:


> I upgraded to an Ext Storia from Alba distribution in Squamish. They tune it specially for the Druid on request. The downside is it costs $1300.


Saving up to do the same thing.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> What about a larger spacer instead of higher pressure or compression which will harshen the entire stroke? Cascade will definitely help
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm running the largest spacer allowable. Don't notice any issues with the bottoming or even that its happening. A first world problem of having a fast bike that makes you feel confident&#8230;


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Ziggy Link in stock, finally!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

vanislemtbr said:


> The initial stiction of the DPX2 with the Druid's leverage curve makes for the harshness I've been feeling.
> 
> Hopefully the fresh service with the cascade link will keep me happy while I save up for a coil. In the meantime, I'll be adding compression and psi to avoid bottoming out.
> 
> Cheers


Before I ever rode my Druid I installed a RWC needle bearing kit in place of the rear bushing on the shock. I only put one in the linkage side as it moves a lot more than the frame side. I noticed when I was building the bike up how poorly the linkage was able to rotate at the shock. The needle bearing changes that, I can use one hand to press on the frame and get the suspension moving.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

ALS650L said:


> Before I ever rode my Druid I installed a RWC needle bearing kit in place of the rear bushing on the shock. I only put one in the linkage side as it moves a lot more than the frame side. I noticed when I was building the bike up how poorly the linkage was able to rotate at the shock. The needle bearing changes that, I can use one hand to press on the frame and get the suspension moving.


Interesting. I'm sure that would help too, but I understand that the DPX2 is the root cause of what I'm feeling. Are you running a DPX2?
Looking at the leverage ratio increase with the Cascade link, I'm hoping it'll have enough force to more easily overcome the stiction. Admittedly, I've let the shock go too long without service so that's just make things a lot worse. Thanks for the idea, as that's another angle I hadn't thought about.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I did same with my DPX2 - needle bearing is money and pretty easy to do at home if you have the right tools. Don’t love my Avy tuned DPX2 so have a Manitou Mara on the way, will update when it arrives!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gubbinalia (May 11, 2020)

Thrawn said:


> Ziggy Link in stock, finally!


If anyone in the States wasn't able to pick up a Ziggy Link from Fanatik on the most recent shipment... I have one still sitting in plastic that I intended to mount on my Druid, but never ended up doing so. My Dreadnought will be a 29/29 sled I've decided... if only to get it up the hill a bit easier.

Send me a DM if you're interested and I can get it shipped out to you.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

I've not ridden the Druid but my Foxy had a harsh feeling rear suspension. It was particularly noticeable when riding off curbs seated, for testing reasons.

The shock bearing was quite helpful but the MegNeg on a Superdeluxe was phenomenal. You could easily just dial in the negative chamber and reduce that initial harshness but you had to balance it with excessive midrange support. If you made the negative chamber too large (removed all negative spacers) the initial response was like butter but because of the much higher shock pressure required to maintain sag the midrange would ramp up way too soon if you went overboard.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Suns_PSD said:


> I've not ridden the Druid but my Foxy had a harsh feeling rear suspension. It was particularly noticeable when riding off curbs seated, for testing reasons.
> 
> The shock bearing was quite helpful but the MegNeg on a Superdeluxe was phenomenal. You could easily just dial in the negative chamber and reduce that initial harshness but you had to balance it with excessive midrange support. If you made the negative chamber too large (removed all negative spacers) the initial response was like butter but because of the much higher shock pressure required to maintain sag the midrange would ramp up way too soon if you went overboard.


Interestingly enough I was just looking at the tech's notes on the service and they'd removed one neg spacer. Thanks to you, I understand what that might do to help. This will be an exciting first ride. Cheers


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Help needed with my setup. I am getting a skip (or what feels to be a skip) when in the 10 tooth cog. 

My setup is a Shimano 10 - 45 rear cassette with a Shimano medium cage rear derailleur. Everything shifts fine, but when I stand (apply torque), I get a skip when in the 10 tooth. I've tried different B screw settings, different chain lengths, checked the cassette lock ring, but I can't find the right issue to fix this. I'm not sure if this is Druid specific or if it is Shimano specific. Any insight is appreciated.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

dubthang said:


> Help needed with my setup. I am getting a skip (or what feels to be a skip) when in the 10 tooth cog.
> 
> My setup is a Shimano 10 - 45 rear cassette with a Shimano medium cage rear derailleur. Everything shifts fine, but when I stand (apply torque), I get a skip when in the 10 tooth. I've tried different B screw settings, different chain lengths, checked the cassette lock ring, but I can't find the right issue to fix this. I'm not sure if this is Druid specific or if it is Shimano specific. Any insight is appreciated.


Dont own a Druid yet, but have done plenty of research. They have a tech vid specific to the B screw tension, might be worth following to see if it helps:


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

dubthang said:


> Help needed with my setup. I am getting a skip (or what feels to be a skip) when in the 10 tooth cog.
> 
> My setup is a Shimano 10 - 45 rear cassette with a Shimano medium cage rear derailleur. Everything shifts fine, but when I stand (apply torque), I get a skip when in the 10 tooth. I've tried different B screw settings, different chain lengths, checked the cassette lock ring, but I can't find the right issue to fix this. I'm not sure if this is Druid specific or if it is Shimano specific. Any insight is appreciated.


How do you define skipping? chain slipping on the same 10t cog? or chain jumping from 10t cog to the next cog in the cassette?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

tdc_worm said:


> How do you define skipping? chain slipping on the same 10t cog? or chain jumping from 10t cog to the next cog in the cassette?


Same cog. The chain is not trying to climb up the cassette, but rather it feels like what happens when pawls give out on a hub. That said, the hub is a brand new Project321 so that shouldn't be the case. I also can't get it to happen in any other cog.



shiny said:


> Dont own a Druid yet, but have done plenty of research. They have a tech vid specific to the B screw tension, might be worth following to see if it helps:


I've gone through this. I have even reached out to Forbidden about proper chain length, but they were of no help. Evidently it seems that I'm the only one running a 10-45 with a medium cage on the Druid.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

dubthang said:


> Same cog. The chain is not trying to climb up the cassette, but rather it feels like what happens when pawls give out on a hub. That said, the hub is a brand new Project321 so that shouldn't be the case. I also can't get it to happen in any other cog.
> 
> I've gone through this. I have even reached out to Forbidden about proper chain length, but they were of no help. Evidently it seems that I'm the only one running a 10-45 with a medium cage on the Druid.


I think the goal would be to setup your chain length and derailleur so you have the least amount of b-tension in that 10 tooth cog as that will give you the most chain wrap. You could even run it with a tiny bit of slack in the chain when the bike is at 0mm travel knowing that this isn't a real riding condition. There are some risks to that setup but that's how you'll get the most chain wrap. 
While I personally don't have the problem, I can see how it happens - and might with any high pivot bike as there's a little less chain wrap (at cassette and chainring) than with standard designs. This probably only matters at the 10t but I'd bet a real beefcake could make the 11t cog skip as well. 
My only other suggestion would be to size up your chainring maybe. If you're putting down enough power in your 10t cog maybe you're also strong enough to run a bigger ring for the terrain where you live? You could also shift up one cog and try spin more vs putting down max torque in the 10t. Everyone's terrain and riding styles are different but I find I'm only in my 10t on fast smooth DH transfers or on the road and can sit and spin. In that circumstance I never generate enough torque to skip it. 
Oh btw - you're shimano? The shimano derailleurs sit slightly further back than SRAMs so this is more likely to occur with them I think.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Dingleberrry said:


> I think the goal would be to setup your chain length and derailleur so you have the least amount of b-tension in that 10 tooth cog as that will give you the most chain wrap. You could even run it with a tiny bit of slack in the chain when the bike is at 0mm travel knowing that this isn't a real riding condition. There are some risks to that setup but that's how you'll get the most chain wrap.
> While I personally don't have the problem, I can see how it happens - and might with any high pivot bike as there's a little less chain wrap (at cassette and chainring) than with standard designs. This probably only matters at the 10t but I'd bet a real beefcake could make the 11t cog skip as well.
> My only other suggestion would be to size up your chainring maybe. If you're putting down enough power in your 10t cog maybe you're also strong enough to run a bigger ring for the terrain where you live? You could also shift up one cog and try spin more vs putting down max torque in the 10t. Everyone's terrain and riding styles are different but I find I'm only in my 10t on fast smooth DH transfers or on the road and can sit and spin. In that circumstance I never generate enough torque to skip it.
> Oh btw - you're shimano? The shimano derailleurs sit slightly further back than SRAMs so this is more likely to occur with them I think.


Adding that the only times I've had this happen was with too much B-tension, warn chain, warn cassette, or the chain guard had to be glued down because it was interfering. Sounds like you need to optimize for the 10 tooth, which may mean compromising the 45 tooth. I'm running 30 - 51 and occasionally use 51 (ie. got the 30t up front to avoid using the 51t Al gear in the SLX cassette) so personally would never make this compromise. My average speed on a ride is lucky to see 9-10km/hr, so I think we're riding much different terrain. Cranking on a 10t&#8230;I'm just happy if I can spin that gear on out trails or on the road making my way home


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

I think I have it sorted out. The chain was 2 links too short causing there to be too little chain wrap on the 10 tooth cog. I'm going for a ride now to see if it's fixed. Thanks for all the input.

edit:
The slightly longer chain was the fix. I wasn't getting enough chain wrap.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> What about a larger spacer instead of higher pressure or compression which will harshen the entire stroke? Cascade will definitely help
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


First ride on the fresh DPX2 service (-a neg spacer) and the Cascade link(thank-you!). Butter!!

Running 30psi higher (200psi) and 3 clicks of compression. Hope it stays this smooth for awhile.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

vanislemtbr said:


> First ride on the fresh DPX2 service (-a neg spacer) and the Cascade link(thank-you!). Butter!!
> 
> Running 30psi higher (200psi) and 3 clicks of compression. Hope it stays this smooth for awhile.


Sweet! I've been googling and haven't found a way to pull a negative spacer at home - anyone have a link?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

dubthang said:


> I think I have it sorted out. The chain was 2 links too short causing there to be too little chain wrap on the 10 tooth cog. I'm going for a ride now to see if it's fixed. Thanks for all the input.
> 
> edit:
> The slightly longer chain was the fix. I wasn't getting enough chain wrap.


glad its working out for ya!

i am trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this....assuming B tension is optimized, adding links would require cranking in more B tension to remove chain slack. the greater the B tension, the more rearward the upper jockey wheel is pushed, reducing chain wrap on any given cog of the cassette? i am no in front of my Druid, as i am a road trip with my Enduro, but with optimized B tension, the chain is engaging 6t onthe 10t cog of my Eagle cassette.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

tdc_worm said:


> glad its working out for ya!
> 
> i am trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this....assuming B tension is optimized, adding links would require cranking in more B tension to remove chain slack. the greater the B tension, the more rearward the upper jockey wheel is pushed, reducing chain wrap on any given cog of the cassette? i am no in front of my Druid, as i am a road trip with my Enduro, but with optimized B tension, the chain is engaging 6t onthe 10t cog of my Eagle cassette.


I think that's the point tho - you have to de-optimize (sorry) the b tension at zero travel (ie unsagged). Then when you weight the bike into a natural, sagged pedaling position you have slightly more chain wrap on the 10t. 
Optimized b-tension (per shimano) results in slightly less chain wrap in the 10t. 
Here's the other thing - if you're not a beefcake and aren't regularly mashing hard in your 10t (raises hand) then just set the b tension normally. It's never been a problem for me and I would bet it's not a problem for 80-98% of users.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Hey everyone,

It's been months since my last post. I have been riding my Druid for over a year now and loving it. I am thinking of making a few changes and I thought I would see what you all think/recommend etc.

1. Jank Components: Anyone have any experience with Jank's idler pulley? I have been waiting for Forbidden to get the stainless ones in stock, but I just don't think I can wait much longer. My idler was worn out back when they made the announcement...in Spring. Forbidden's SS idler is going to be $170 CAD. Jank's is $100 CAD and the replacement steel cogs for it sell for $25, not another $170. Buying from the actual manufacturer of the Druid makes a ton of sense, but I am leaning toward Jank at the moment. Thoughts?

2. Coil shock experience: I ran my Druid with an RS Super Deluxe and a 350lb spring. At 160 with all the gear I usually wear, the 350lb spring was just too hard. I mean it climbed well, but it just was not plush. I felt I had to fight to try to use all the travel and even then I mostly failed.

Anyway, the RS Super Deluxe coil has led to a couple issues. The first is that I just don't know jack about coil shocks and as far as I can tell, RS does not make a spring lower than 350lb for 55x210. So my question is: where can I find a 300 or 325 spring that fits on the RS Super Deluxe shock? How do you know that a non-RS coil fits on a RS shock, or a non-Fox coil on a Fox shock for that matter?

3. Too make the whole 'I don't know jack about coils' sitch worse is that I am about to pull the trigger on a Cascade link. Their webpage recommends a 450lb(!) coil for my 160lb butt. Wait, what?! That's 100lbs more than the one that is too hard now... On top of that, the RS Super Deluxe doesn't even fit the Cascade link. I can switch to the one coil that does (Fox DHX2,) but then I am switching to a shock I know even less about than the RS coil.

So my first question is for those of you who went Cascade and coil: Did you have to up your spring rate? How does your exp. compare with the recommendations on Cascades webpage:



https://cascadecomponents.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360058977551-Recommended-Spring-Rates-for-the-Forbidden-Druid-Link-FD-1000-



The second question is a more general one: if you find your sweet spring rate on one shock, does that mean that that's your spring rate for another shock on the same bike? Like going from RS to FOX, would you run the same spring rate on both if you knew 325lb was perfect for your RS shock? Does this make sense?

Cheers


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

vanislemtbr said:


> Saving up to do the same thing.


The other downside is that according to Cascade's webpage, the EXT Storia does not fit their link, not even the newer B1 link.


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> It's been months since my last post. I have been riding my Druid for over a year now and loving it. I am thinking of making a few changes and I thought I would see what you all think/recommend etc.
> 
> ...





Iamblichus said:


> Anyway, the RS Super Deluxe coil has led to a couple issues. The first is that I just don't know jack about coil shocks and as far as I can tell, RS does not make a spring lower than 350lb for 55x210. So my question is: where can I find a 300 or 325 spring that fits on the RS Super Deluxe shock? How do you know that a non-RS coil fits on a RS shock, or a non-Fox coil on a Fox shock for that matter?


Ok. I just watched a helpful YouTube from The Lost Co. and figured this part out.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

I am a big fan of the sprindex adjustable coil. They don't make a weight lower than 380 though.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> It's been months since my last post. I have been riding my Druid for over a year now and loving it. I am thinking of making a few changes and I thought I would see what you all think/recommend etc.
> 
> ...


I dunno about the rest of your questions, or rather, there are surely others better suited than me, but in regards to the Cascade Link, it does change the leverage curve of the bike so you do need a stiffer/heavier weight spring. IIRC, I think it was about 25% higher than the stock recommendation from Forbidden. Cascade's performance on this one is mixed at best, so hopefully others can share how much stiffer they went with their springs and how that worked out.
In the past I've mixed and matched damper bodies and springs from different manufacturers, but I can't say for this generation of shocks.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Any central Texas Druid owners here? Or anyone with similar terrain?

I really think the high pivot suspension would be great for the chunky, loose descents. And I imagine the Druid would do well on the short, punchy and rocky climbs. What are everyone's thoughts on the mellower, flatter parts of the trail? Does anyone run a 140 mm fork to help with this?

I'm currently on a Ripmo v2. Sometimes it feels like a bit much, but I know I can crank down on the pedals pretty well.

I'm curious how the Druid pedals for those parts of the trail that connect the interesting features. Especially in the sections where I need to accelerate a little before I hit a techy climb.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Any central Texas Druid owners here? Or anyone with similar terrain?
> 
> I really think the high pivot suspension would be great for the chunky, loose descents. And I imagine the Druid would do well on the short, punchy and rocky climbs. What are everyone's thoughts on the mellower, flatter parts of the trail? Does anyone run a 140 mm fork to help with this?
> 
> ...


Tdc_worm is a W. Austinite and sure loves his Druid.

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Any central Texas Druid owners here? Or anyone with similar terrain?
> 
> I really think the high pivot suspension would be great for the chunky, loose descents. And I imagine the Druid would do well on the short, punchy and rocky climbs. What are everyone's thoughts on the mellower, flatter parts of the trail? Does anyone run a 140 mm fork to help with this?
> 
> ...


I did a 12 mile xc type ride (900 ft of climbing), and was really amazed by how much fun I really had. The druid climbs techy stuff really well. I wouldn't want to change anything by going to a 140 mm fork.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

unrealityshow said:


> I did a 12 mile xc type ride (900 ft of climbing), and was really amazed by how much fun I really had. The druid climbs techy stuff really well. I wouldn't want to change anything by going to a 140 mm fork.


I started off with a 140 fork, and I was getting pedal strikes. I went to 150 and the strikes mostly disappeared. I would not go to 140 unless I was somewhere with fairly smooth climbs.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

tdc_worm said:


> glad its working out for ya!
> 
> i am trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this....assuming B tension is optimized, adding links would require cranking in more B tension to remove chain slack. the greater the B tension, the more rearward the upper jockey wheel is pushed, reducing chain wrap on any given cog of the cassette? i am no in front of my Druid, as i am a road trip with my Enduro, but with optimized B tension, the chain is engaging 6t onthe 10t cog of my Eagle cassette.





Dingleberrry said:


> I think that's the point tho - you have to de-optimize (sorry) the b tension at zero travel (ie unsagged). Then when you weight the bike into a natural, sagged pedaling position you have slightly more chain wrap on the 10t.
> Optimized b-tension (per shimano) results in slightly less chain wrap in the 10t.
> Here's the other thing - if you're not a beefcake and aren't regularly mashing hard in your 10t (raises hand) then just set the b tension normally. It's never been a problem for me and I would bet it's not a problem for 80-98% of users.


Originally I set the bike up on a stand with air in the shock. I set it up based on enough tension to keep the chain from making the derailleur limp, and to keep the top of the derailleur cage in the right orientation (b screw location) when in the 45 tooth cog. I removed more links (per Forbidden's suggestion) when I experienced skipping. None of that worked.

I then removed all the air from the shock, compressed the rear end, and held it in place with a strap. I used Shimano's recommend chain length for a full squish, put everything back together, and then aired up the shock. This allowed me to set the b screw per Forbidden's recommendation, and everything worked out okay. I believe the shorter chain was pulling the top pulley away from the 10t cog as the suspension flexed causing the skip.


----------



## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

dubthang said:


> Originally I set the bike up on a stand with air in the shock. I set it up based on enough tension to keep the chain from making the derailleur limp, and to keep the top of the derailleur cage in the right orientation (b screw location) when in the 45 tooth cog. I removed more links (per Forbidden's suggestion) when I experienced skipping. None of that worked.
> 
> I then removed all the air from the shock, compressed the rear end, and held it in place with a strap. I used Shimano's recommend chain length for a full squish, put everything back together, and then aired up the shock. This allowed me to set the b screw per Forbidden's recommendation, and everything worked out okay. I believe the shorter chain was pulling the top pulley away from the 10t cog as the suspension flexed causing the skip.


What's shimanos recommended chain length for squish? SRAM deleted their old advice - perhaps because it didn't accommodate bikes like this one with this much chain growth. In the end did shimanos advise have you adding or removing links?


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

FWIW...I found fobidden's B-screw suggestion does not apply to SRAM Eagle. When I did what they said it didn't work. Just use the little plastic tool they give you and I've had perfect shifting.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Proud to join the ranks.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> It's been months since my last post. I have been riding my Druid for over a year now and loving it. I am thinking of making a few changes and I thought I would see what you all think/recommend etc.
> 
> ...


Never heard of the Jank, but seems legit. Nice to have options, especially at almost half the price. I might try that one.

I can't comment on your optimal spring weight, but I can confirm that you do indeed need to up your spring weight for the cascade link. Perhaps you can try with a bit lower weight (current spring) first since you need a lower weight. That might be your fix.

Regarding different manufacturer spring weights... I have a Push ElvenSix and believe that the EXT spring weight is different if I were to use that shock. I remember looking it up and noticing that the spring weight was lighter (if I recall correctly).

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Iamblichus (Dec 2, 2006)

Energ8t said:


> Never heard of the Jank, but seems legit. Nice to have options, especially at almost half the price. I might try that one.
> 
> I can't comment on your optimal spring weight, but I can confirm that you do indeed need to up your spring weight for the cascade link. Perhaps you can try with a bit lower weight (current spring) first since you need a lower weight. That might be your fix.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Energ8t! Much appreciated.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

@Dingleberrry, I kept the full 126 chain length for my medium. I followed Shimano's setup procedure which had me wrap the chain around the 45 (biggest) cog, over the idler, around the chain ring, and back to the 45. I added 5 or 6 links (can't remember exactly). This worked out to be the whole chain.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

IME, ignore the weird descriptions of how to set chain length as when I've used them they end up being off anyways.

There is literally only 1 chain length that works on a wide ratio 12 speed cassette. 2 links too long results in the derailleur being straight back with no spring tension on the chain and the chain being loose in 12th gear, as in sagging. 2 links too short results in the derailleur being pulled nearly straight forward when in 1st gear and the chain barely touching the jockey wheels. 

There is only one length that even fits. Start too long and remove 2 links at a time if you have slack while in 12th gear. remove 2 more links. It should go without saying to readjust B tension between every chain adjustment before removing links.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Proud to join the ranks.
> View attachment 1939955


WELCOME!!!

It finally happened!

Next&#8230;AXS&#8230;


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

In this world of chain scarcity, I needed a chain at the beginning of the season. My XX1 chain was fully pooched side to side. It had no rigidity left laterally, and skipped no matter what.

There were no chains to be found but 2 good guys at my LBS sold me their own from their personal stashes. I got 2 XX1 chains and decided to try using only 1 full one with no added links, and keep the other for backup.

Large frame. No extra links. Working fine.

I previously used two chains cut a little less than in half, so that the two quick links would be equi-distant. No need to do that anymore from my perspective.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Suns_PSD said:


> IME, ignore the weird descriptions of how to set chain length as when I've used them they end up being off anyways.
> 
> There is literally only 1 chain length that works on a wide ratio 12 speed cassette. 2 links too long results in the derailleur being straight back with no spring tension on the chain and the chain being loose in 12th gear, as in sagging. 2 links too short results in the derailleur being pulled nearly straight forward when in 1st gear and the chain barely touching the jockey wheels.
> 
> There is only one length that even fits. Start too long and remove 2 links at a time if you have slack while in 12th gear. remove 2 more links. It should go without saying to readjust B tension between every chain adjustment before removing links.


Weird. I have literally run my XL Druid with 132, 130, and now 128 links without issue.

I think what you are saying is that "with optimal b tension setting [per SRAM or Shimano's guidance], then their is only one optimal chain length." may be true on a bike without #1 the chain growth of a HP bike and/or #2 a bike with lower guide that provides wrap on the front chainring. these animals are a lil different.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Just got my Avy Bomber CR - definitely cannot fit the Cascade link, damn…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Just got my Avy Bomber CR - definitely cannot fit the Cascade link, damn&#8230;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


do you have the newer version of the link? What is the outside diameter of the spring? I'm thinking about sending back my avalanche woodie for retuning but haven't sized it up in the frame yet. How far off is it from fitting?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

A_street said:


> do you have the newer version of the link? What is the outside diameter of the spring? I'm thinking about sending back my avalanche woodie for retuning but haven't sized it up in the frame yet. How far off is it from fitting?


It's not even close, and this is on the B1, newest, link. Diameter of the spring collar is 52mm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

A_street said:


> do you have the newer version of the link? What is the outside diameter of the spring? I'm thinking about sending back my avalanche woodie for retuning but haven't sized it up in the frame yet. How far off is it from fitting?


Should say the Woodie bears no resemblance to the bomber CR, but yes, do what you can to measure

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

tdc_worm said:


> Weird. I have literally run my XL Druid with 132, 130, and now 128 links without issue.
> 
> I think what you are saying is that "with optimal b tension setting [per SRAM or Shimano's guidance], then their is only one optimal chain length." may be true on a bike without #1 the chain growth of a HP bike and/or #2 a bike with lower guide that provides wrap on the front chainring. these animals are a lil different.


Have you ever tried that chain length in the 51t at full shock compression (and therefore full extension of the rear Center)? That would be max chain length and I swear there was a guy on here before who trashed the carbon on his RT by ripping the derailleur forward and off the bike. Doubt Forbidden would warranty that - not sure about crash replacement. Maybe you're fine though.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Dingleberrry said:


> Have you ever tried that chain length in the 51t at full shock compression (and therefore full extension of the rear Center)? That would be max chain length and I swear there was a guy on here before who trashed the carbon on his RT by ripping the derailleur forward and off the bike. Doubt Forbidden would warranty that - not sure about crash replacement. Maybe you're fine though.


No.

But I have tried that chain length with a 52t cassette, a 34t chainring, and an MRP lower guide, using the Forbidden recommended method of setting b tension, and have experienced zero bind on my XL at full compression.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

johnsogr said:


> Just got my Avy Bomber CR - definitely cannot fit the Cascade link, damn&#8230;


Dangit. So much for my plan to go cascade link and Avy'd Bomber CR. Now I have to decide if I go cascade link with my existing DPX2 or go to Avy'd Bomber CR with Standard link. Ideally, I wanted both, a bit more progression and more suppleness/bump compliance in rough fast terrain. What do you all think, which option would be the smarter better bang for my buck?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

fizzywater said:


> Dangit. So much for my plan to go cascade link and Avy'd Bomber CR. Now I have to decide if I go cascade link with my existing DPX2 or go to Avy'd Bomber CR with Standard link. Ideally, I wanted both, a bit more progression and more suppleness/bump compliance in rough fast terrain. What do you all think, which option would be the smarter better bang for my buck?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm three rides in on the DPX2 and Cascade link combination. So far, it's been excellent. Suppleness is there and I bottom out less.


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

How's everyone doing with the 11-6 on a Cascade link? Was a higher spring rate required?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Thrawn said:


> How's everyone doing with the 11-6 on a Cascade link? Was a higher spring rate required?


Yes, I added 50 lbs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

fizzywater said:


> Dangit. So much for my plan to go cascade link and Avy'd Bomber CR. Now I have to decide if I go cascade link with my existing DPX2 or go to Avy'd Bomber CR with Standard link. Ideally, I wanted both, a bit more progression and more suppleness/bump compliance in rough fast terrain. What do you all think, which option would be the smarter better bang for my buck?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I need a different spring now that the Avy Bomber doesn't work in the cascade, but I'm still going to go back to the original link and try it out - I'll let you know. If you want an Avy air shock, I don't think the DPX2 is the way to go (as Craig will say), better off sending him a DPS.

I also have a Manitou Mara IL on the way. Based on its reviews on other bikes, I have high hopes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Thrawn said:


> How's everyone doing with the 11-6 on a Cascade link? Was a higher spring rate required?


Yes. Def required. +50lb

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


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## h0ffentlich (Dec 18, 2020)

edit... : solved


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> View attachment 1941285
> 
> just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


I'm also running a full size chain with no added links on a large frame with no issues with the linkage fully compressed.

I have not been so lucky with the b tension. Mine is fine for a while, but then seems to wander slightly and require tweaking after longer rides with old school janky downs.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> View attachment 1941285
> 
> just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


Great photos. But I think it's impossible to add 3 links of chain unless you're counting 3 plus a quick link - you can only add even numbers of links to a chain. My brain exploded when I learned this but I believe a link is a single inner or outer section of chain - not both.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> View attachment 1941285
> 
> just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


I think we can all agree that the bigger issue here is how you are going to plug that open cable port after installing AXS&#8230;


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

Dingleberrry said:


> Great photos. But I think it's impossible to add 3 links of chain unless you're counting 3 plus a quick link - you can only add even numbers of links to a chain. My brain exploded when I learned this but I believe a link is a single inner or outer section of chain - not both.


Correct, every plate that spans between between a set of pins is considered a link. This includes inner and outer plates. The master link is simply a removable outer plate. Your counts should always be even for narrow-wide compatibility. Uneven counts can only happen with non-narrow wide chains and use a "half-link", which is stepped to adapted from a inner plate to a outer plate (eg. BMX). You could also just count the pins&#8230;a fine Sunday morning activity.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

vanislemtbr said:


> Correct, every plate that spans between between a set of pins is considered a link. This includes inner and outer plates. The master link is simply a removable outer plate. Your counts should always be even for narrow-wide compatibility. Uneven counts can only happen with non-narrow wide chains and use a "half-link", which is stepped to adapted from a inner plate to a outer plate (eg. BMX). You could also just count the pins&#8230;a fine Sunday morning activity.


Yeah I can't work it out, looks like 3, anyways by the photons you can see what's added 
Are you saying I have added 4 links or 2 links


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I think we can all agree that the bigger issue here is how you are going to plug that open cable port after installing AXS&#8230;


Those ports are a little tricky to block off


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Try these: Closed Cable Port Covers for Forbidden Druid / Dreadnought SRAM AXS

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

4vdean said:


> Those ports are a little tricky to block off


I have been following this:









Upgraded to AXS wireless derailleur, what do you use to...


I just upgraded to a SRAM AXS derailleur, but now have 4 holes in my new Ibis Ripley V4 frame that I'm wondering how to plug without looking ghetto (i.e. not black tape). I see they are now an easy avenue for dirt and water to get into the frame. Any of you wireless derailleur users have any...




www.mtbr.com


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> 
> 
> This may work, but I'd want the chain on both pulleys, not just one.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

@dubthang&#8230;

Not sure of the downside, unless I am missing something. As long as my rear d doesn't get ripped off on a hard landing, it's all good with me. It's not as though I will be pedalling in granny gear with my shock 100% compressed.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @dubthang&#8230;
> 
> Not sure of the downside, unless I am missing something. As long as my rear d doesn't get ripped off on a hard landing, it's all good with me. It's not as though I will be pedalling in granny gear with my shock 100% compressed.


Agreed. "As long as&#8230;" being key here, as stranger things have happened. But probably a relatively small risk. 
I can recall the old days having a chain where I couldn't run my chain in the large ring up front and the largest rear cog. I figured I could keep the discipline to never do that.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dingleberrry said:


> Agreed. "As long as&#8230;" being key here, as stranger things have happened. But probably a relatively small risk.
> I can recall the old days having a chain where I couldn't run my chain in the large ring up front and the largest rear cog. I figured I could keep the discipline to never do that.


I may have misunderstood things but I was responding to the comment about preferring to have the chain in contact with both small pulleys on the rear d, with the shock 100% compressed, in granny gear.

Even with all those things occurring at the same time, my rear d is not going to be ripped off using a standard length XX1 chain. I verified it.

While I obviously want the chain in contact with the 2 small pulleys while pedalling, I won't ever be pedalling in granny gear with my 11-6 coil 100% compressed.

That's why I saw no downside.

Could the rear d be ripped off despite having checked things out with the shock disconnected in granny gear? Maybe, but I think at that point we are talking highly remote possibilities. I suspect there would have to be some kind of weird frame flex or something.

Please let me know if I am off base here. The last thing I want is to damage my AXS rear d. I'm still going to counselling to recover from the initial sticker shock.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

4vdean said:


> Yeah I can't work it out, looks like 3, anyways by the photons you can see what's added
> Are you saying I have added 4 links or 2 links


You've added 4 links. The one master link would be added regardless of the extra links, so it doesn't count in the extension chunk.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> View attachment 1941285
> 
> just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


Nice...I have found AXS to work VERY well on this bike...the micro adjustments make it really nice.

FWIW...with a 52 ring in the rear (and 32 in the front), I've done as recommend on my large and added 4 links...works perfect with setting B screw as SRAM suggests (not Forbidden).


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @dubthang&#8230;
> 
> Not sure of the downside, unless I am missing something. As long as my rear d doesn't get ripped off on a hard landing, it's all good with me. It's not as though I will be pedalling in granny gear with my shock 100% compressed.


My concern would be a decline in shifting performance. I could see the chain not aligning with the pulley correctly causing the chain to jump or a miss shift. My concerns could be completely unfounded.


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## JankyEric (Aug 1, 2021)

Iamblichus said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> It's been months since my last post. I have been riding my Druid for over a year now and loving it. I am thinking of making a few changes and I thought I would see what you all think/recommend etc.
> 
> ...


Hey ya'll this is Janky Eric.
A friend told me there were a few questions about my components popping up on here so I thought I'd hop on and make an account. I have made quite a few upgrades for the Druid and Dreadnought including my steel idler pulley, moto foam, pump holder, oneup chainguide adapter, etc some of which you have probably seen on this forum. They can all be found at jankcomponents.com . If you have any questions about Jank parts or have any custom part ideas, you can message me here or on Facebook/Instagram @jankcomponents.

I race pro enduro for Fanatik and I live in Bellingham WA. If you have any bike setup related questions or just wanna chat you can shoot me a message on Instagram @JankyEric
Cheers!


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Eric is the man! I’ve been emailing him questions relentlessly this week.

I can personally vouch that his carrier + solid state bearing + Connex 16 T idler is by far the quietist setup I’ve had on the Druid, nice work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

JankyEric said:


> Hey ya'll this is Janky Eric.
> A friend told me there were a few questions about my components popping up on here so I thought I'd hop on and make an account. I have made quite a few upgrades for the Druid and Dreadnought including my steel idler pulley, moto foam, pump holder, oneup chainguide adapter, etc some of which you have probably seen on this forum. They can all be found at jankcomponents.com . If you have any questions about Jank parts or have any custom part ideas, you can message me here or on Facebook/Instagram @jankcomponents.
> 
> I race pro enduro for Fanatik and I live in Bellingham WA. If you have any bike setup related questions or just wanna chat you can shoot me a message on Instagram @JankyEric
> ...


Provided you will ship to Canada for a reasonable amount, I see more business flowing your way&#8230;


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## JankyEric (Aug 1, 2021)

johnsogr said:


> Eric is the man! I've been emailing him questions relentlessly this week.
> 
> I can personally vouch that his carrier + solid state bearing + Connex 16 T idler is by far the quietist setup I've had on the Druid, nice work!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks John! Happy to help.


mtnbkrmike said:


> Provided you will ship to Canada for a reasonable amount, I see more business flowing your way&#8230;


Lot's of stoked Canadian folks using Jank already! Shipping is calculated at checkout on the website. Or if you have a way of shipping that you prefer that isn't listed on my website you can email me [email protected]


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I've got Eric's idler pulley with the SRAM xsync steel chainring and it rules. Highly recommended.

I live in Vancouver and shipping took about a month but it's well worth the wait.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

johnsogr said:


> Eric is the man! I've been emailing him questions relentlessly this week.
> 
> I can personally vouch that his carrier + solid state bearing + Connex 16 T idler is by far the quietist setup I've had on the Druid, nice work!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did a quick look at the Connex chainrings, and the ones I found weren't narrow-wide. Is that what you have, or should I keep looking?


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Hope the link works, an interesting druid review alongside a deviate


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

hbar said:


> I did a quick look at the Connex chainrings, and the ones I found weren't narrow-wide. Is that what you have, or should I keep looking?


Not narrow-wide:

Wippermann Unisex's Z16 16T Sprocket, Silber, One Size Amazon.com : Wippermann Unisex's Z16 16T Sprocket, Silber, One Size : Sports & Outdoors

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

johnsogr said:


> Not narrow-wide:
> 
> Wippermann Unisex's Z16 16T Sprocket, Silber, One Size Amazon.com : Wippermann Unisex's Z16 16T Sprocket, Silber, One Size : Sports & Outdoors
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This looks like you can use almost any 16T steel cog that will fit a HG freehub body, as long as it's got teeth narrow enough for the chain you're using...


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

JankyEric said:


> Hey ya'll this is Janky Eric.
> A friend told me there were a few questions about my components popping up on here so I thought I'd hop on and make an account. I have made quite a few upgrades for the Druid and Dreadnought including my steel idler pulley, moto foam, pump holder, oneup chainguide adapter, etc some of which you have probably seen on this forum. They can all be found at jankcomponents.com . If you have any questions about Jank parts or have any custom part ideas, you can message me here or on Facebook/Instagram @jankcomponents.
> 
> I race pro enduro for Fanatik and I live in Bellingham WA. If you have any bike setup related questions or just wanna chat you can shoot me a message on Instagram @JankyEric
> ...


Using your idler, inline OneUp pump thing, foam holder thing to keep rocks out the frame and AXS port covers. Thanks for the sick stuff!

38 on a Druid,..? What travel?


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

4vdean said:


> Hope the link works, an interesting druid review alongside a deviate


Spot on...the shock tune is the missing thing on our bikes...Settings fully open on every shock is a clear issue...


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Hey I was wondering if any tall people have expiremented with the ziggy link. I am 6’2” and would love to here thaughts on the mullet from someone that is around my height.


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## JankyEric (Aug 1, 2021)

pinkrobe said:


> This looks like you can use almost any 16T steel cog that will fit a HG freehub body, as long as it's got teeth narrow enough for the chain you're using...


It has to be a bosh e-bike chainring. The spline pattern is not the same as HG.


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## JankyEric (Aug 1, 2021)

hothb said:


> Using your idler, inline OneUp pump thing, foam holder thing to keep rocks out the frame and AXS port covers. Thanks for the sick stuff!
> 
> 38 on a Druid,..? What travel?


Cheers! It's a 150mm Fox 38


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Spot on...the shock tune is the missing thing on our bikes...Settings fully open on every shock is a clear issue...


I'll second that. With the cascade and neg spacer removed in the DPX2, I'm running 20psi higher with less sag, 3 clicks of rebound and 4 clicks of compression. Feels great, much better under breaking in the chatter, and better small bump compliance. These were a couple areas where I wanted to see improvement. It does seem to chew through the mid-stroke, but I'm happy with the trade offs. Still playing with settings&#8230;


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Its been a tough balance for me...35% sag seems key but man you lose the mid-stroke support.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Its been a tough balance for me...35% sag seems key but man you lose the mid-stroke support.


FYI-I'm around 30% with this set-up now. 35% was definitely needed for the stock XT build set-up.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Do the issues with the DPX2's tune seem to only be affecting lighter riders? I can't seem to get a feel for how people feel about this shock. People on coils definitely seem happier, but I'm hoping to stick with an air shock. I'm about 195 geared up right now. The terrain around here is loose and chunky, with a lot of square edges.

My Druid should be arriving tonight. I'm excited but also dreading getting the suspension set up right.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Do the issues with the DPX2's tune seem to only be affecting lighter riders? I can't seem to get a feel for how people feel about this shock. People on coils definitely seem happier, but I'm hoping to stick with an air shock. I'm about 195 geared up right now. The terrain around here is loose and chunky, with a lot of square edges.
> 
> My Druid should be arriving tonight. I'm excited but also dreading getting the suspension set up right.


I don't think the setup is that hard honestly - open on the compression switch, completely open LSC, air pressure to sag. I think the problem is that for a lot of people, it's still too much compression damping, and per Craig at Avalanche, the design of the DPX2 will never allow it to flow oil quickly enough to work well with the leverage curve of the Druid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Do the issues with the DPX2's tune seem to only be affecting lighter riders? I can't seem to get a feel for how people feel about this shock. People on coils definitely seem happier, but I'm hoping to stick with an air shock. I'm about 195 geared up right now. The terrain around here is loose and chunky, with a lot of square edges.
> 
> My Druid should be arriving tonight. I'm excited but also dreading getting the suspension set up right.


210 lbs +/- a breakfast taco or two and have zero issues.

One note:
The rear triangles are identical amongst all 4 sizes. CS length is determined from BB to rear axle. To achieve a longer CS length, the BB is pushed forward on all sizes on the front triangle as they increase. This results in increased leverage from the rider, as the distance between the single pivot and the BB is longer on larger sizes. so you have a longer lever, likely combined with a heavier rider on the larger frames. i don't remember my exact settings, but if I ran compression all the way open, i'd explode something. I am maxed on spacers, also.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Do the issues with the DPX2's tune seem to only be affecting lighter riders? I can't seem to get a feel for how people feel about this shock. People on coils definitely seem happier, but I'm hoping to stick with an air shock. I'm about 195 geared up right now. The terrain around here is loose and chunky, with a lot of square edges.
> 
> My Druid should be arriving tonight. I'm excited but also dreading getting the suspension set up right.


I'm about the same weight and never have been really upset about how it performs. Once you ride it for a bit, you may find some situations where it acts differently then you expect and it may be something you want to try and tune out. Otherwise, you live with it and get used to it. I'm a tinkerer, so I like to play with the tuning and optimize for my use. It's part of the fun.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Do the issues with the DPX2's tune seem to only be affecting lighter riders? I can't seem to get a feel for how people feel about this shock. People on coils definitely seem happier, but I'm hoping to stick with an air shock. I'm about 195 geared up right now. The terrain around here is loose and chunky, with a lot of square edges.
> 
> My Druid should be arriving tonight. I'm excited but also dreading getting the suspension set up right.


FWIW I'm about 190 pounds geared up.

I changed out the DPX for a Float X2.

Running 160psi which gets me 35% sag...wide open on all 4 settings, 3 volume spacers.

Check the Forbidden website for suggested setup on the DPX2...it will be weird settings compared to what you are used to...again, wide open is not uncommon for this bike with lots of volume spacers. I can't stress enough...35-ish% is the sweet spot for sag on this bike...it feels weird at first and mentally I could not wrap my head around it as I've largely ridden Horst Link bikes in the past....trust what the Forbidden folks suggest.

Interesting article here that touches on DPX2 setup specifically: NSMB.com - Forbidden Bicycle Co. Multi Part Review


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> 210 lbs +/- a breakfast taco or two and have zero issues.
> 
> One note:
> The rear triangles are identical amongst all 4 sizes. CS length is determined from BB to rear axle. To achieve a longer CS length, the BB is pushed forward on all sizes on the front triangle as they increase. This results in increased leverage from the rider, as the distance between the single pivot and the BB is longer on larger sizes. so you have a longer lever, likely combined with a heavier rider on the larger frames. i don't remember my exact settings, but if I ran compression all the way open, i'd explode something. I am maxed on spacers, also.


I never considered how the chainstay length would affect the leverage on different sizes. It makes sense that lighter riders would have problems getting set up.



vanislemtbr said:


> I'm about the same weight and never have been really upset about how it performs. Once you ride it for a bit, you may find some situations where it acts differently then you expect and it may be something you want to try and tune out. Otherwise, you live with it and get used to it. I'm a tinkerer, so I like to play with the tuning and optimize for my use. It's part of the fun.


I'm all for tinkering and that feeling when everything is finally dialed in - but some of the complaints in this thread have me worried I'll never get there.



hothb said:


> FWIW I'm about 190 pounds geared up.
> 
> I changed out the DPX for a Float X2.
> 
> ...


Did you get to ride the DPX2 before you swapped it out? Thoughts?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I rode the DPX2 for an entire season before swapping it out for a first gen 11-6.

The DPX2 was awesome. If it weren’t for its incessant squeaking like a group of little mice, and PUSH blowing out its 11-6s, I would have never considered changing it.

I rode it wide open (LSC and HSC) and rebound was maybe 4 or so clicks from wide open.

I loved that shock. It would never be a reason for me to be deterred from buying this bike.

Large frame, Factory 36 with GRIP2 and Luftkappe, 185 pounds plus clothing and gear.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

…


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

I've joined the club!










Almost all of the parts from my Ripmo plugged right in.

How does everyone feel about using Forbidden's recommendations as a starting point? I've got the sag for the shock set at 19mm/35% and the fork at 30mm/20%. Hoping I can get things dialed with a few quick runs at my local spot tomorrow and then give the bike a proper shakedown at the park on Sunday.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I've joined the club!
> 
> View attachment 1942211
> 
> ...


The recommendations worked well for me. I ended up switching from the dpx2 to an ext storia though. Totally worth it.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I've joined the club!
> 
> View attachment 1942211
> 
> ...


Go with the recommended to start in the rear for sure. the rear is tricky to setup. Enjoy!


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

Just be warned if you want to keep a poppy feel stay with air. If you go to something like an x2 or a super deluxe with a megneg you’ll keep a more playful/poppy feel and increase bump sensitivity


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Fellow forbidden riders. Until today, I’d been away from my Druid (and this forum) for several months due to an injury. On today’s ride, the rear wheel axle came loose again. Wondering if anybody has found a solution to the Druid’s self-loosening axle?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

I took the Druid to the bike park today to get the suspension dialed in. I found that Forbidden’s suggestions were spot on.

From what I’ve read, the chain is actually supposed to rub into the protector. But after the ride, it looks like the chaincompletely skipped the protector and put a small nick the chain stay.

There were a few moments that it seemed like the chain skipped when I was mashing on the pedals in the last two gears. Could this be related? Anyone else had this issue?


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## renbuskeh (Mar 2, 2010)

incubus said:


> Fellow forbidden riders. Until today, I'd been away from my Druid (and this forum) for several months due to an injury. On today's ride, the rear wheel axle came loose again. Wondering if anybody has found a solution to the Druid's self-loosening axle?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Torque wrench is your friend.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I took the Druid to the bike park today to get the suspension dialed in. I found that Forbidden's suggestions were spot on.
> 
> From what I've read, the chain is actually supposed to rub into the protector. But after the ride, it looks like the chaincompletely skipped the protector and put a small nick the chain stay.
> 
> There were a few moments that it seemed like the chain skipped when I was mashing on the pedals in the last two gears. Could this be related? Anyone else had this issue?


Yep, back off your B-screw.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

incubus said:


> Fellow forbidden riders. Until today, I'd been away from my Druid (and this forum) for several months due to an injury. On today's ride, the rear wheel axle came loose again. Wondering if anybody has found a solution to the Druid's self-loosening axle?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 well first make sure your tightening it to spec, but if that doesn't work use some blue Loctite.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

incubus said:


> Fellow forbidden riders. Until today, I'd been away from my Druid (and this forum) for several months due to an injury. On today's ride, the rear wheel axle came loose again. Wondering if anybody has found a solution to the Druid's self-loosening axle?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


After about the fourth time, I put blue loctite on it. It's been good since, even after a several deliberate removals.
You'll need to reapply once in a while, but it works surprisingly well.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

So I am a 174 cm rider and I have new plans for my Medium ziggy Druid

I'm sort of just on the upper cusp of Medium on the bike with my short legs and longer torso and already running a +6 crown race for my own special geometry considerations and I have plenty enough upper stem spacers too. I'm going to add +5 Works reach EC adjust cups.

Anyone know if the CC Hellbender bearings run on Works cups?

This would keep more or less no change in frame stack or head angle (b/c of extended crown race already running), but allow me to have a reach closer to 450 ish than mid 440 and fit slightly better. I will go back to stock thin crown race. Most peoples Druids the EC cups would slack the bike further, but this special case. This also may add bit more front end stiffness than my current setup?

I also plan on sucking up weight penalty and putting my closeout Push 11-6 back onto the bike. I plan to use the same Sprindex coil's adjustable to range solve the spring weight sweetspot issue I bet somewhere maybe 450-460lbs. I will take off my Cane Creek DB IL coil.

I also hope to give to the B1 Cascade link with the Ziggy and Push gen 1 due to Energ8t positive findings (thanks for the feedback Energ8t!). I also have a better idea of how I want to set the rebound and clickers now on the Push. I will still run a single Burgtech offset bushing to raise BB for rock climbing and offset the 27.5 rear a bit. The bike front to rear at sag should feel like my SB130 lr cockpit and rear center at sag, which I'm stoked as that bike fits me great!

This will be a nimble trail/AM brawler with the Mezzer front.

I keep coming back to this bike for longer rides do anything, just hoping finally sort out reach and cockpit geo.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

erdawe said:


> So I am a 174 cm rider and I have new plans for my Medium ziggy Druid
> 
> I'm sort of just on the upper cusp of Medium on the bike with my short legs and longer torso and already running a +6 crown race for my own special geometry considerations and I have plenty enough upper stem spacers too. I'm going to add +5 Works reach EC adjust cups.
> 
> ...


Can you use an offset bushing to shorten the effective eye to eye on the shock? I swear I've read you can only use to lengthen (ie. slacken angles and lower bb) the eye to eye.
Other than that, sounds like a hell of a lot of small tweaks and mods but you do you. Are you running a 150mm fork? Why the thick crown race previously? Just to get the head angle you wanted? Could you run the fork at 10mm more travel?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

erdawe said:


> So I am a 174 cm rider and I have new plans for my Medium ziggy Druid
> 
> I'm sort of just on the upper cusp of Medium on the bike with my short legs and longer torso and already running a +6 crown race for my own special geometry considerations and I have plenty enough upper stem spacers too. I'm going to add +5 Works reach EC adjust cups.
> 
> ...


Not sure I follow here. A stock non-Ziggy Druid has a 445mm reach and a 65.6 degree head angle. Going Ziggy will change that to 440mm and 65.1 degrees. Adding a bigger crown race will reduce both the reach and the head angle further. Adding the Works headset will only get you close to 445, not 450. The crown race will lift the bb slightly though. I'd go with a longer fork instead of the crown race. 10mm will net you 6 - 7mm when sagged.

We are similarly sized. My medium is non-Ziggy, but I'm running a 160mm fork up front. I came from a medium Mondraker Foxy which I ultimately felt was too long for me. The Druid I built up feels pretty dialed at the moment. You may want to build your front end up normal first, and then make little adjustments from there. Currently my cockpit setup is a 760mm OneUp bar (15mm rise), 32mm 9point8 Stout stem, 20mm spacer below the stem, and a CC Viscoset upper cup. The stack and reach are very comfortable.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Dingleberrry said:


> Can you use an offset bushing to shorten the effective eye to eye on the shock? I swear I've read you can only use to lengthen (ie. slacken angles and lower bb) the eye to eye.
> Other than that, sounds like a hell of a lot of small tweaks and mods but you do you. Are you running a 150mm fork? Why the thick crown race previously? Just to get the head angle you wanted? Could you run the fork at 10mm more travel?


Yeah, I'm sort of making the bike into it's own. This is a super configurable bike.

Shorten eye to eye possible with offset bushing that stays in place well and located in a shock pivot locations with minimal rotation, prime example on this bike is the front eyelet. I would not recommend this working on the rear bushing.

I run 160mm fork 29, with 27.5 wheel. My BB is ~335mm with 2.4 tires, little in way of pedal strikes chunky climbs with short cranks..

The approach I'm using is somewhat similar to how a downhill bike like the new Trek session is configurable all the way from 29" wheels to 27.5 both front and rear. You wonder how this is done, but it's done. People think that these changes can't be done with good geo and BB height, but it can if the bike has configurability.
My smaller wheel is decreased torque on the front compared to 160mm 29 as the 29 is a longer lever arm. I'm also a somewhat light rider and not doing 10 foot huck to flat on it.

The 27.5 wheel front allows picking through agility with rock gardens. My other 29s trail bike just rolls through instead. It's different riding feel.

I don't like mullet for trail bikes as they encourage tall fronts slacked fronts and rearward bias more than I'd like on mellower terrain. I also can feel how the different wheels feel chunky flatter sections pedals, its a constant (big-small, big-small as I roll over each babyhead). This is why I like wheelsize consistency either 27.5 or 29 as it is more rewarding with matching wheels.
I do like mullet it on my DH bike as I have the steepness of gravity to overcome different wheel sensation.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

dubthang said:


> Not sure I follow here. A stock non-Ziggy Druid has a 445mm reach and a 65.6 degree head angle. Going Ziggy will change that to 440mm and 65.1 degrees. Adding a bigger crown race will reduce both the reach and the head angle further. Adding the Works headset will only get you close to 445, not 450. The crown race will lift the bb slightly though. I'd go with a longer fork instead of the crown race. 10mm will net you 6 - 7mm when sagged.
> 
> We are similarly sized. My medium is non-Ziggy, but I'm running a 160mm fork up front. I came from a medium Mondraker Foxy which I ultimately felt was too long for me. The Druid I built up feels pretty dialed at the moment. You may want to build your front end up normal first, and then make little adjustments from there. Currently my cockpit setup is a 760mm OneUp bar (15mm rise), 32mm 9point8 Stout stem, 20mm spacer below the stem, and a CC Viscoset upper cup. The stack and reach are very comfortable.


Yeah cockpit is important. I have a taller torso and shorter legs. I do like the bike in 29 mode and no ziggy. I liked it this way more than Mullet. I just feel more point and go and efficient. But I like my other 29er AM bike quite a lot and there was a lot of overlap. I run 50mm stem on my trail, enduro and DH bikes for consistency and they all have similar short offsets. I run 780 bars.

I can see why the Foxy is too long, you lose a lot of beneficial arm "suspension" with Mondraker Foxy in medium with such a forward driven cockpit at 475 whatever reach. More like the speederbike effect.
Its interesting to hear the viscoset being used to tame the 32mm stem quickness in steering. That's a cool idea.

This would be a good time for a bike pic, not so weird.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

^^^^
@erdawe, that makes more sense.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

erdawe said:


> Yeah cockpit is important. I have a taller torso and shorter legs. I do like the bike in 29 mode and no ziggy. I liked it this way more than Mullet. I just feel more point and go and efficient. But I like my other 29er AM bike quite a lot and there was a lot of overlap. I run 50mm stem on my trail, enduro and DH bikes for consistency and they all have similar short offsets. I run 780 bars.
> 
> I can see why the Foxy is too long, you lose a lot of beneficial arm "suspension" with Mondraker Foxy in medium with such a forward driven cockpit at 475 whatever reach. More like the speederbike effect.
> Its interesting to hear the viscoset being used to tame the 32mm stem quickness in steering. That's a cool idea.
> ...


I agree with your statement about reach. I am 6'1" and just switched from a raaw Madonna Xl to a Druid Xl and can say that I am having way more fun and I'm way faster through almost everything (this is my second Druid I've owned, I had one before I switched to the Madonna). Not only is the shorter reach better for arm suspension (which I have a lot of) it's way better for confidence and speed because I know I won't lose traction on the front end and I also know I will be able to whip the front end out of the way if needed.



erdawe said:


> So I am a 174 cm rider and I have new plans for my Medium ziggy Druid
> 
> I'm sort of just on the upper cusp of Medium on the bike with my short legs and longer torso and already running a +6 crown race for my own special geometry considerations and I have plenty enough upper stem spacers too. I'm going to add +5 Works reach EC adjust cups.
> 
> ...


personally from experience modding bikes( jncluding the Druid) I would just use the ziggy link with your current setup before you change anything. You never know you could find that love that balance of geo.

Note: I don't know if anyone else knew this but the Druid is rated for a 160mm fork.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> personally from experience modding bikes( jncluding the Druid) I would just use the ziggy link with your current setup before you change anything. You never know you could find that love that balance of geo.
> 
> Note: I don't know if anyone else knew this but the Druid is rated for a 160mm fork.


Hey, I've been running the ziggy through 2020 season. The ziggy is what already put me down this rabbit hole from running it full 29".

I also follow Forbidden IG and their Canadian? enduro riders on sponsor from Forbidden run their bikes with 160 forks here in 2021 no probs. Though I like take the bike on tough terrain, I'm sure they ride the bike even harder than I at 160.
The idea of putting a 160mm fork on this bike has been planted as an idea my head all way back to this review of the Druid early on when bike was starting on the scene 2019 from this piece.








Forbidden Druid - Review - Spoke Magazine


Forbidden Bike Company out of Cumberland, BC have launched a category blurring, short travel 29er with a high pivot that is causing ripples in the bike industry. I was lucky enough to build up one to his own spec and give us his views on this stunning machine.




spokemagazine.com





The Madonna seems like a great bike for big terrain, it was more forgiving no? I can see why the Druid is faster though for most terrain.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Seems like 160mm is the sweet spot for this thing. Have not tried...anyone replace the airspring on a 36 themselves? Is it hard process?


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

erdawe said:


> Hey, I've been running the ziggy through 2020 season. The ziggy is what already put me down this rabbit hole from running it full 29".
> 
> I also follow Forbidden IG and their Canadian? enduro riders on sponsor from Forbidden run their bikes with 160 forks here in 2021 no probs. Though I like take the bike on tough terrain, I'm sure they ride the bike even harder than I at 160.
> The idea of putting a 160mm fork on this bike has been planted as an idea my head all way back to this review of the Druid early on when bike was starting on the scene 2019 from this piece.
> ...


Yea the Madonna was great on downhill trails, mainly because of the size, weight and plushness. In terms of eating bumps the Druid is right there with it. I think this is mainly attributed to the low pedal kickback produced by the trifecta design.

Your modification plan makes more sense now that I know you've been riding the ziggy link for a while.

I've also been considering using a 160 fork and then potentially using a cascade link when I go to downhill parks. The majority of the trails I normally ride are double black janky tech and I think the 160mm fork would be great.



hothb said:


> Seems like 160mm is the sweet spot for this thing. Have not tried...anyone replace the airspring on a 36 themselves? Is it hard process?


the process for changing air shafts for the 36 is really easy. Just read through all the steps, fallow them well, AND DONT FPRGET TO REMOVE THE AIR AND AIR VALVE.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

hothb said:


> Seems like 160mm is the sweet spot for this thing. Have not tried...anyone replace the airspring on a 36 themselves? Is it hard process?


If you have steeps or enduro terrain 160mm. I'd say for All Mountain trail riding 150mm is a little more balanced all around. Stock it is still a 130mm bike, just a unique wheelpath. The bike can take a 1 degree angleset too vs 160mm swap.

Airspring not too too difficult if you tried a lowers service before.


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

4vdean said:


> View attachment 1941284
> View attachment 1941285
> 
> just for a visual reference (have posted this before) top pic is standard 126L chain, bottom pic is 3 links added, both pics at full compression, large frame, 32t ring, 50t eagle, with both lengths shifting was flawless with b-tension set up as per forbiddens method


You either added 2 or 4 links total (an additional master link is 1 link after all) and only the bottom photo is correct. Probably 4 as adding 2 is darn near impossible as the single inner just falls apart.

Literally your chain is at it's limit in the shorter configuration and any extension of the rear center could bend your 1st cassette gear or damage some other part. Plus it's not even on the upper derailleur pulley.

I stand by my statement that there is only a single correct chain length for a 12 speed cassette. It's the length 2 teeth less than the length that would result in a loose chain in 12th gear.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

Anyone have any insight on a big guys spring #?
220 in my birthday suit, running a new gen 11-6 w 475lb coil (recommended). 
I had it set up with the recommended high/low speeds and it just felt muted. Not sure how else to describe it. Still fast as hell, but didn't feel right. 
I opened up both low and high speeds to fully open and have low speed about 5 clicks in from open, and high speed at 2 clicks from open. 
Bike feels better, but still not having any luck balancing it out with the lyrik rc2 up front.

Wondering if i need to go down a weight (450lb) and back up to more compression?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Anyone have any insight on a big guys spring #?
> 220 in my birthday suit, running a new gen 11-6 w 475lb coil (recommended).
> I had it set up with the recommended high/low speeds and it just felt muted. Not sure how else to describe it. Still fast as hell, but didn't feel right.
> I opened up both low and high speeds to fully open and have low speed about 5 clicks in from open, and high speed at 2 clicks from open.
> ...


I can only comment on the last gen 11-6.

PUSH and Suspension Werx both recommended 450 for me (185 out of the shower). I questioned that recommendation but they both persisted. I got the shock with the 450 and yeah, too firm.

@erdawe was good enough to hook me up with a 425er. Life since then has been divine.

There are countless posts similar to mine. I think at 130, the manufacturers are worried about bottoming the shock out. No huck to flats going on with my bike. I'm good at 425.

Springs are cheap (especially second hand). Try it!

PS - one thing PUSH did get right was their rebound and compression settings for both climb and descend modes. With the 425er, the settings are spot on.

I too tried softening things up with the stock 450 by lowering compression. It softened things up but omg - I have never been on a more lifeless bike. Before I got the 425er, I reverted back to PUSH's recommended settings. Retina detaching? Yes. But at least my Druid had some pop.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I'm going to take this opportunity to say that yesterday, I was on some reasonably technical terrain. I had some sustained gradual climbing that was filled with baby heads, roots and rock and root ledges. My Druid, in climb mode on my 11-6, clawed its way up and through all of this as though it was flat pavement. I had a very strong day yesterday. It may have been the strongest riding day have had in my life. Nonetheless, I can't help but think that my Druid was a huge part of everything. It functioned masterfully. I was in shock the entire ride (no pun intended).


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

erdawe said:


> If you have steeps or enduro terrain 160mm. I'd say for All Mountain trail riding 150mm is a little more balanced all around. Stock it is still a 130mm bike, just a unique wheelpath. The bike can take a 1 degree angleset too vs 160mm swap.
> 
> Airspring not too too difficult if you tried a lowers service before.


yea I ran a 1degree angle set in my last Druid with a 150mm 38 and a custom tuned coil shock. It was great 👍 ( it also weighed 37lbs )


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I can only comment on the last gen 11-6.
> 
> PUSH and Suspension Werx both recommended 450 for me (185 out of the shower). I questioned that recommendation but they both persisted. I got the shock with the 450 and yeah, too firm.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the intel - i've heard go down one from recommended, but seemed light based on their rec'd weight to spring guide as i'm on the upper end of the 475 range. 
Anyone have a 450 they want to part with?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

hothb said:


> Seems like 160mm is the sweet spot for this thing. Have not tried...anyone replace the airspring on a 36 themselves? Is it hard process?


It's pretty easy. I'm down to under an hour including brake caliper removal/install. If you can't find the 20wt oil for the lowers, you can substitute synthetic motor oil in a pinch. Yes, I know it's not the right way, but it works. Your LBS will probably sell you some from their supply if you bring a couple of clean jars with you. I don't have the right headset wrench [remember those?] size to remove the air seal head, so I use a set of smooth-jaw Knipex adjustable pliers. So choice.

Pro tip: the mass of grease that Fox puts onto the air piston head of the fork at the factory can be largely removed when installing the new air shaft. Give it a reasonable coating, but the massive blobs Fox puts in aren't necessary.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> Thanks for the intel - i've heard go down one from recommended, but seemed light based on their rec'd weight to spring guide as i'm on the upper end of the 475 range.
> Anyone have a 450 they want to part with?


I may. That is what I replaced. Let me think about this&#8230;


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

-1° Wolftooth GeoShift headset + 160mm is the ticket. If you punch in the geo, positive numbers outweigh the negatives imho.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

shapethings said:


> -1° Wolftooth GeoShift headset + 160mm is the ticket. If you punch in the geo, positive numbers outweigh the negatives imho.
> 
> View attachment 1942863


Very nice to see the quantified geo changes, because that's exactly what I did a few months ago. Went from medium to large front triangle, then added the geoshift headset at -1degree setting and increased fork travel from 150 to 160. It all worked out for the better for me and transformed the Druid from trail to full on AM bike, which was exactly what I wanted. The only figure that surprises is the significant wheelbase increase. I knew it was going to increase, but did not anticipate it by that much. Regardless, the end result in terms of handling and bike balance for AM is fantastic.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I'm going to take this opportunity to say that yesterday, I was on some reasonably technical terrain. I had some sustained gradual climbing that was filled with baby heads, roots and rock and root ledges. My Druid, in climb mode on my 11-6, clawed its way up and through all of this as though it was flat pavement. I had a very strong day yesterday. It may have been the strongest riding day have had in my life. Nonetheless, I can't help but think that my Druid was a huge part of everything. It functioned masterfully. I was in shock the entire ride (no pun intended).


Beautiful terrain, rewarding ridin', what it's all about.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

This may have been posted earlier, so forgive me if this is old hat.

What are you guys doing for the rubber chain guard replacements? Looks like they are backordered from forbidden for an unknown amount of time.


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I may. That is what I replaced. Let me think about this&#8230;


tried sending you a PM but appears you have it restricted?


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

ATXZJ said:


> This may have been posted earlier, so forgive me if this is old hat.
> 
> What are you guys doing for the rubber chain guard replacements? Looks like they are backordered from forbidden for an unknown amount of time.


Same situation, had to make my own. Hesitant to share a photo because it might make people sad - it makes me sad. (I used that rubbery 3m tape)


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

shapethings said:


> Same situation, had to make my own. Hesitant to share a photo because it might make people sad - it makes me sad. (I used that rubbery 3m tape)


You have to show it now that you've told us about it !.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

shapethings said:


> Same situation, had to make my own. Hesitant to share a photo because it might make people sad - it makes me sad. (I used that rubbery 3m tape)


Have the same tape as well. Might just use it for now until they come off backorder. I know someone who's pretty crafty at making that tape look good. Don't know if i mentioned before, I bought this frame used. Pulled everything apart to give it a once over and also remove the cascade link for now. Looks like it's going to need a couple shock bolts, linkage bearings and misc items. Nothing too serious, considering.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> You have to show it now that you've told us about it !.


The bodged chainstay protector actually does a good job of silencing. I cut various sized pieces to form a ziggurat and then lay a strip over it and press it down.






  







  







  







  







  




❮
❯


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

secondary to some overlooked preventative maintenance, i was forced to pull my MRP guide/bash guard mid ride on Wednesday. the bike would not consistently throw the chain off the front chain ring (remaining appropriately engaged on the cassette, idler and der) when hammering up technical climbs that cycled the suspension. i reinstalled the guide and rode yesterday, with zero incident. i know that there are folks that are guideless, but in my experience, if you are climbing tech it will throw the chain.

set up:
XL, 34t x 52-10t AXS, 128 links. 

as a side note: one of my primary reasons for moving from the e13 guide to the MRP guide was the tactile feedback of the SRAM PowerLock gliding over over the roller on the e13 guide. because of its kidney shape, it places additional tension on the der when it passes over the roller. on chains longer than 126 links, you often have two PowerLocks close in succession, which exacerbates that feedback. while it probably doesnt impact performance, it's annoying and desensitizes you to feedback from your drivetrain. i believe that the KMC MissingLink is compatible and will resolve the issue....but i need to do more digging to confirm.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

shapethings said:


> The bodged chainstay protector actually does a good job of silencing. I cut various sized pieces to form a ziggurat and then lay a strip over it and press it down.


would be interested to see how the chain interfaces with that when in the 10t cog....


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

tdc_worm said:


> secondary to some overlooked preventative maintenance, i was forced to pull my MRP guide/bash guard mid ride on Wednesday. the bike would not consistently throw the chain off the front chain ring (remaining appropriately engaged on the cassette, idler and der) when hammering up technical climbs that cycled the suspension. i reinstalled the guide and rode yesterday, with zero incident. i know that there are folks that are guideless, but in my experience, if you are climbing tech it will throw the chain.
> 
> set up:
> XL, 34t x 52-10t AXS, 128 links.
> ...


I echo this completely - was running MRP, but then while hammering up a tech climb, I'd drop the chain. This is not an issue when I went back to the stock guide.

I expect Cascade will be releasing a bash guard without a guide for the Druid based on Instagram pics I've seen, but I wonder if this will have the same problem.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

johnsogr said:


> I echo this completely - was running MRP, but then while hammering up a tech climb, I'd drop the chain. This is not an issue when I went back to the stock guide.
> 
> I expect Cascade will be releasing a bash guard without a guide for the Druid based on Instagram pics I've seen, but I wonder if this will have the same problem.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Curious to see how this works out for me. Planning on not running a lower guide and just relying on the sram eagle ring/chain/clutch derailleur to do their job. Ive never run any guides on my SX with various shimano & sram drivetrain combinations, and it has never dropped a chain.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

You can do that if you just spin naturally, but if you really hammer out of the saddle, it will come off, abruptly, bashing you into your handlebars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

johnsogr said:


> You can do that if you just spin naturally, but if you really hammer out of the saddle, it will come off, abruptly, bashing you into your handlebars.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting. Ive stomped the SX and never had that issue and it's far more primitive than the druid


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

johnsogr said:


> I echo this completely - was running MRP, but then while hammering up a tech climb, I'd drop the chain. This is not an issue when I went back to the stock guide.
> 
> I expect Cascade will be releasing a bash guard without a guide for the Druid based on Instagram pics I've seen, but I wonder if this will have the same problem.


For accuracy purposes, I DO NOT DROP chains with the MRP guides. I only drop chains WITHOUT a guide (had to pull it mid ride), only when hammering up technical stuff. on smooth climbs its a non issue.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

ATXZJ said:


> Interesting. Ive stomped the SX and never had that issue and it's far more primitive than the druid


Not sure what a SX is?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

johnsogr said:


> Not sure what a SX is?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


sorry



https://www.pinkbike.com/news/commencal-supreme-sx-review.html


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Ohhh interesting! Yes, the Druid and Dreadnaught are the only high pivot bikes that require chain guide/tensioner that I can think of offhand, perhaps it’s something particular to their design?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

tdc_worm said:


> would be interested to see how the chain interfaces with that when in the 10t cog....


it does rub, but not all that bad. When I do it again, I'll skip the rear 2 or 3 ridges. The tape does rub away, so the chain will have less rub the more I use it (I have the same DIY chainstay protector on another bike).


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

FWIW, when I spoke with Forbidden, I was advised that the lower chain guide was there primarily to ensure contact of the chain with a minimum number of teeth on the ring, per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

I ran mine with no lower chain guide for a week or two before my LBS got hold of a roller, which I had destroyed. I had no issues but then again, I am mostly a seated, quiet climber. No fire roads though, unless absolutely necessary. Most of the stuff I rode was black singletrack up, down, and everything in between. No shortage of rocks, roots and ledges comprised of rocks and/or roots. No issues. YMMV.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Curious to see how this works out for me. Planning on not running a lower guide and just relying on the sram eagle ring/chain/clutch derailleur to do their job. Ive never run any guides on my SX with various shimano & sram drivetrain combinations, and it has never dropped a chain.


My bet is that you will be A-OK. Looking forward to your feedback on this, once you are up and running.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

I've hit all of my usual routes since getting the Druid and I'm pretty satisfied with the switch.

I came from a Ripmo V2 (before that a Bronson V3) and was looking for something with suspension that could eat all of Central Texas' chunky descents and climbs, and geometry to maneuver around the tight squeezes on the rolling sections of trail. I really think I made the right choice with the Druid.

I was really concerned about how the bike would handle the flatter terrain. It certainly doesn't pick up like the Ripmo, but the way the bike handles allows me to stay off the brakes when navigating around/in between trees and big rocks - instead of having to slow down and accelerate out. Even if I have to get on the gas, I get all the support I need.

The Druid eats everything up climbing and descending as expected. But that geometry really allows me to put the bike where I want it without putting up a huge fight. I'm really, really pleased to have the suspension feel of a much larger bike while still feeling completely in control and not like I'm just being brought along for the ride.

I'm still adjusting to the braking and I've yet to go an a long pedal, but things are going pretty well so far.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Regarding the feel that it’s a longer travel bike, I agree completely and it’s the single most impressive thing about the Druid imho. When I watched the 20+ minute review recently on MBR and they said that this was an overrated feature or sentiment I knew I never had to go to their website or watch another review there. How anyone could ride this bike and NOT come away saying it feels like more than 130mm of rear travel is beyond me.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Dingleberrry said:


> . When I watched the 20+ minute review recently on MBR and they said that this was an overrated feature or sentiment I knew I never had to go to their website or watch another review there.


Saw that too. Ridiculous

Watching Lewis chase Danny down Fort William said more than enough for me when it comes to what the druid is capable of.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Dingleberrry said:


> Regarding the feel that it's a longer travel bike, I agree completely and it's the single most impressive thing about the Druid imho. When I watched the 20+ minute review recently on MBR and they said that this was an overrated feature or sentiment I knew I never had to go to their website or watch another review there. How anyone could ride this bike and NOT come away saying it feels like more than 130mm of rear travel is beyond me.


Yea that was an interesting review...the points were valid to an extent and the bike is unchanged since 2019 so I can see how they thought it was a bit 'out-dated'.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Molds aren't cheap, especially for a small brand. That reviewer is a c*nt.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Agreed, lol.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Dingleberrry said:


> Regarding the feel that it's a longer travel bike, I agree completely and it's the single most impressive thing about the Druid imho. When I watched the 20+ minute review recently on MBR and they said that this was an overrated feature or sentiment I knew I never had to go to their website or watch another review there. How anyone could ride this bike and NOT come away saying it feels like more than 130mm of rear travel is beyond me.


That review was surreal. I was couldn't reconcile his comments with the bike I bought. I'm riding the druid after coming off of an SC Nomad, and I don't feel like I've given up much, if any travel.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Just watched the review, and I hate to say it, but I tend to agree with a lot of what was said. Of note, I’m coming off a Ripley v4, and my goal was to find just a touch more travel, more stability, but maintain efficient pedaling; ergo, I chose the Druid.

What I’ve found, like the reviewers did, is that the bike is quite heavy (for a 130 mm trail bike), is somewhat difficult to get off the ground, and the small/medium bump compliance is lacking. I do think much of this is coming from the DPX2’s tune - can’t open the compression damping enough, even after I had it tuned by Avalanche (they told me beforehand that it wouldn’t be a perfect tune d/t the limits of the DPX2’s setup).

In the end, a lot of what you think of a bike comes down to so many factors - your local trails, you personal preferences, weight, etc. For me, at 165 lbs, on my local, punchy, slower, rocky, tech trails, I just can’t seem to make the Druid as quick, compliant, or light as my Ripley (not to say I haven’t tried: Cascade link, Avy tuned Bomber & DPX2, Push 11-6…). This is all without mentioning the extra noise & drag from the idler and lower guide.

Just my 2c, I don’t think the reviewers are c****, and actually have a valid perspective. Some will gel immediately with the bike, and some will not. For me, having ridden Ibis for a long time, I just find them easy/natural to ride, but I’m glad I branched out and tried something vastly different.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

johnsogr said:


> What I've found, like the reviewers did, is that the bike is quite heavy (for a 130 mm trail bike), is somewhat difficult to get off the ground, and the small/medium bump compliance is lacking. I do think much of this is coming from the DPX2's tune - can't open the compression damping enough, even after I had it tuned by Avalanche (they told me beforehand that it wouldn't be a perfect tune d/t the limits of the DPX2's setup).
> 
> In the end, a lot of what you think of a bike comes down to so many factors - your local trails, you personal preferences, weight, etc. For me, at 165 lbs, on my local, punchy, slower, rocky, tech trails, I just can't seem to make the Druid as quick, compliant, or light as my Ripley (not to say I haven't tried: Cascade link, Avy tuned Bomber & DPX2, Push 11-6&#8230. This is all without mentioning the extra noise & drag from the idler and lower guide.
> 
> ...


so true....different strokes for different folks.

i think one thing that is misinterpreted about this bike is its intended use by simply calling it a 130mm travel bike. Forbidden calls categorizes the bike as "Aggressive Trail." Its the bike that their team races during Enduros....not the Dreadnought. It's so much bike that it was close enough to my 2020 Enduro that the Specialized just collects dust in my garage. In communication with one of the Forbidden reps, he told me that they only place he reaches for his Dreadnought over his Druid is for heavy bike park duties...and remember, they are only 14mm apart in the rear. It's a big, long bike, and its weight is commensurate with its capabilities, in my opinion. I'd love to see what Forbidden could do with a 100mm setup.

as for the tuning of the shock, have you ever tried cranking in more compression damping? i know it sounds counter intuitive, but if you have everything fully open, the shock may be getting into its travel too quickly and living its life in the ramp up of the end stroke. that would make it feel like it has no small bump compliance.


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

johnsogr said:


> Just watched the review, and I hate to say it, but I tend to agree with a lot of what was said. Of note, I'm coming off a Ripley v4, and my goal was to find just a touch more travel, more stability, but maintain efficient pedaling; ergo, I chose the Druid.
> 
> What I've found, like the reviewers did, is that the bike is quite heavy (for a 130 mm trail bike), is somewhat difficult to get off the ground, and the small/medium bump compliance is lacking. I do think much of this is coming from the DPX2's tune - can't open the compression damping enough, even after I had it tuned by Avalanche (they told me beforehand that it wouldn't be a perfect tune d/t the limits of the DPX2's setup).
> 
> ...


I was especially interested in the MBR review as I came to the Druid after having the Highlander (Highlander frame was a medium, should have bought a large). My thought's after watching the video are:

1. The bikes are "trail bikes" that can do well on more aggressive terrain. Some would say all mountain, I call it "trailduro". I like it, but yeah, the bikes are heavyish for their travel.

2. I agree that both would rather stick to the ground than send it. That works for me but not the best choices if you like bonus lines and jibs.

3. I've ridden both frames with coils and loved it. I took the DPX2 off the frame when I bought the Druid and honestly have it stowed away in case I sell the frame. I have a different air shock that I would out on if I want to go air. Based on feedback I have seen on MTBR and FB, the specc'ed air shocks don't seem to be the best fits for the bikes. And going coil reinforces for 1st 2 points.

4. I don't think either frame is really a good idea for people who want to buy bike a complete bike and just have it work for them. I don't mean that in negative way, but both frames are really asking for a rider to pick and tune their suspension parts to get the ride qualities they desire. If you don't have the desire, time or money to do that, I would suggest different bikes.

Just my 4 cents. I love the Druid (loved the Highlander as well) and do wish that the MBR review spent more time focusing on the positives of both bikes. Oh well.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

johnsogr said:


> What I've found, like the reviewers did, is that the bike is quite heavy (for a 130 mm trail bike), is somewhat difficult to get off the ground
> 
> I just can't seem to make the Druid as quick, compliant, or light as my Ripley


I agree with this a bit. My build is heavier than my Mondraker Foxy currently. I hope to remedy that next year. I'm still working on retraining myself to get the bike in the air more. The motion isn't as natural as some other bikes. The Druid is far slower than my Foxy too. It could just be the current tires (sticky E13's), but I'm not sure yet.

On the other hand, I find the bike fits really well, and is very comfortable. It loves to climb, and is more fun overall when compared to my Foxy.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

IMHO, people spend too much time expecting high pivot bikes such as the druid, to ride like something they're not. They are a completely different animal. My experience is that all suspension designs have their strengths and weaknesses. You want poppy and playful? Don't buy a high pivot. They are meant for speed. There's lots of "fun" 120-130mm bikes to choose from. I'm coming off a 100mm down****ry (ish) bike that worked really, really well for the part of the country i ride. I also have a 180mm basher that just wants to go fast and kill me. Somewhere in between was modern a trail bike. I considered the Spur, 120MM Hei Hei, Tallboy, Rascal and finally the Druid as options. I finally committed to buying the Druid with the full knowledge that its going to weigh more, not be as playful and have a little more maintenance. I'm fine with that.

I'm rapidly approaching my late 40s and prefer the stuck to the ground security at speed that the high pivots offer over anything else. To me the suspension argument is similar to 27.5 vs 29 as they both have strengths and weaknesses. Someone trying to make a bike "do it all" will just end up with the cycling version of the copy/fax/scanner/printer/phone that does a whole lot of stuff, poorly. 

As far as that review goes, meh. I also watch & read reviews that have nothing but praise for bikes I have zero interest in buying. Did those paid testers opinion persuade me in any way? Nope.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I have no idea why people want "poppy" riding bikes. I haver no problem launching my Druid either. Turn up your LSC.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

rodzilla said:


> Just my 4 cents. I love the Druid (loved the Highlander as well) and do wish that the MBR review spent more time focusing on the positives of both bikes. Oh well.


I wish the review was more balanced as well, but I really appreciated hearing the other side.

It's almost impossible to get a good perspective on a bike when you're looking in forums/Facebook groups because everyone is going to say that the bike they bought is the best bike. I feel like that is even worse for an extra boutique brand with a unique suspension.

I had to read between the lines a lot when I was doing my research on the Druid. Sometimes I think the negative reviews say more than the positive ones. Oh well. In the end, I was looking for an aggressive trail bike and I got one!

Now&#8230; to go coil or not..


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

One can analyze anything right down to the granular, including the whole high pivot witchcraft thing. All I know is that despite the MBR review, or anything anyone else may say, this bike absolutely kicks ass. Now, maybe that's partially due to the 11-6. Not sure. Whatever it is, it's exactly in line with what turns my crank. Taking Fernie BC by storm for the next short while&#8230;



















Hitting some more dramatic stuff tomorrow. Tonight's was a bonus ride after just arriving. A tasty appetizer&#8230;

EDIT: I rode the whole trail tonight in the climb mode on the 11-6. I didn't bother switching it to the down mode. It was poppy AF. Zero issue with getting it off the ground, even at moderate speeds. My Garmin jump data confirmed this. I 100% agree with the comments above about playing with the compression settings (among other things).

In a prior post, I tried to convey my disappointment when I opened up the the LSC and HSC to try to compensate for too firm a spring. The bike was DEAD. Horrible. I returned to PUSH's settings, despite almost getting detached retinas before I got the lower weight spring on there this year. The point being, there's no downside to fiddling with all the buttons, to see what else may be lurking within. Too low compression settings will definitely paralyze this bike though.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Nice long-term review.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Nice long-term review.


Thanks for the Link, well worth a watch.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

_spoiler alert_

Just watched the DH race in Maribor and both events were won on high pivot bikes. Women's had 3 in the top 5 and the men's had 2.

Good times


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> _spoiler alert_
> 
> Just watched the DH race in Maribor and both events were won on high pivot bikes. Women's had 3 in the top 5 and the men's had 2.
> 
> Good times


The thing that still impresses me most though about the Druid is its ability for claw its way up the techy climbs. I wasn't expecting that.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The thing that still impresses me most though about the Druid is its ability for claw its way up the techy climbs. I wasn't expecting that.


Who the hell wants to pedal?

Yeah, can't speak to the druid yet, but was really surprised how well the 180mm high pivot did on rocky climbs, considering. Definitely a sit N' spin situation.


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## shiny (Jul 4, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> One can analyze anything right down to the granular, including the whole high pivot witchcraft thing. All I know is that despite the MBR review, or anything anyone else may say, this bike absolutely kicks ass. Now, maybe that's partially due to the 11-6. Not sure. Whatever it is, it's exactly in line with what turns my crank. Taking Fernie BC by storm for the next short while&#8230;
> 
> View attachment 1943531
> 
> ...


Bike looks awesome @mtnbkrmike wish they still offered the black colour way. Have you weighed the bike all?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Hey everyone - just posted my Push ElevenSix on PinkBike:



https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3133327/



Going to stick w/ the Mara IL & Avy Bomber CR, let me know if you're interested!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> Hey everyone - just posted my Push ElevenSix on PinkBike:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey I'm interested...why don't you like it?

How much do you weigh?


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## pyromaniacman129 (Feb 20, 2006)

mtnbkrmike said:


> In a prior post, I tried to convey my disappointment when I opened up the the LSC and HSC to try to compensate for too firm a spring. The bike was DEAD. Horrible. I returned to PUSH's settings, despite almost getting detached retinas before I got the lower weight spring on there this year. The point being, there's no downside to fiddling with all the buttons, to see what else may be lurking within. Too low compression settings will definitely paralyze this bike though.


I loved reading this part. I'm 215 in my birthday suit on a 475lb spring on my push. Was way too stiff feeling. Opened up the compression to almost wide open and it just made the bike feel completely DEAD. now even more excited for the 450 + recommended push settings. Even with too firm of a spring i cant believe how in control i've felt absolutely murdering sections of trail I typically would go half that speed on.


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## Forbiddenforlife (Oct 3, 2020)

I know I’m a little late too respond but I throughly I would anyways.
Regarding the weight of the frame, it’s heavy because it’s very overbuilt.

The reason for this is that warranty’s cost a lot of money and the more they can prevent that from happening the better the chance that they will stay around and be able to develop more bikes.
Take for example specialized (one of the companies with the most carbon development) they first launched the enduro with a carbon upper link but almost immediately recalled it because they kept breaking. Imagine how much of an effect that would have on a new bike company not only monetarily but for reputation. 

it makes complete sense IMO to over build there frames and I think for someone who works in the industry to completely overlook that is idiotic.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Forbiddenforlife said:


> I know I'm a little late too respond but I throughly I would anyways.
> Regarding the weight of the frame, it's heavy because it's very overbuilt.
> 
> it makes complete sense IMO to over build there frames and I think for someone who works in the industry to completely overlook that is idiotic.


I would rather have a slightly heavier bike that doesn't break than having to deal with a warranty claim or crash replacement.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Victory!!!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

shiny said:


> Bike looks awesome @mtnbkrmike wish they still offered the black colour way. Have you weighed the bike all?


Thanks man. Super appreciated. I think it's around 33 with pedals and nothing in the reverse swat box. I have heavy tires on it though, including an Assegai.

That Assegai/Dissector combo is the best I have ever ridden. Ain't giving it up to save a bit of weight. I'm in Fernie right now and it is DRY AND LOOSE! And those tires are hooking up more than Wilt Chamberlain in his hay day.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> Hey I'm interested...why don't you like it?
> 
> How much do you weigh?


Not sure about the pricing but I can attest that my first gen 11-6 kicks ass big time if, and this is a big if, you get the spring rate right. You would also want to be the same weight as the seller, as you alluded to, although you could get it revalved or whatever it's called (although that seems like a bit of work, expense and delay to me).


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Went back to the e13 guide from MRP and im having trouble getting shifting setup. Any tips for eagle (non axs)?

Do people use the eagle red guide or go off forbiddens site?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Went back to the e13 guide from MRP and im having trouble getting shifting setup. Any tips for eagle (non axs)?
> 
> Do people use the eagle red guide or go off forbiddens site?


I use Mitch in the "Top Shop" department of my LBS.

Regrettably I suck at this kinda stuff, and have no choice but to leave it with the experts. Plus I am convinced that it takes a patient and experienced soul to get the b tension correct on this bike given it's huge rearward axle path. Mine is good for about 10 rides and then needs readjusting. I have grown to accept it as a necessary evil. Thankfully my LBS is very kind and gentle with me when it comes to this kinda stuff.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

phazedalx said:


> Went back to the e13 guide from MRP and im having trouble getting shifting setup. Any tips for eagle (non axs)?
> 
> Do people use the eagle red guide or go off forbiddens site?


I'm on Shimano and followed the Forbidden guidance and have no issues. The B screw set-up is different than conventional set-ups.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pyromaniacman129 said:


> tried sending you a PM but appears you have it restricted?


Sorry for the late reply. I think I have that fixed now if you want to PM me. I am toying with the a cascade link though and may need the heavier spring if I go that route. Still deciding what to do. It's so exciting to have options!!!


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

shapethings said:


> I'm on Shimano and followed the Forbidden guidance and have no issues. The B screw set-up is different than conventional set-ups.


Yes, definitely follow Forbidden's guidance. I've used both, SRAM and Shimano derailleurs on my Druid and in either case only Forbidden's instructions made it work properly, especially for the shifting in the 3-4 smallest cogs of the cluster.

Also, have been using the frictionless MRP lower guide for a few months now with zero issues...works great for me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

It's pouring rain here in Fernie. No big deal though because me and my daughter can use a day off the bikes. Plus it needs it bad here - the trails are super dry and loose. Combine that with steep and it's been exciting! Looking forward to some moisture for tomorrow's riding.

Not to mention all the BC fires still burning out of control ??

All that said, I have nothing to do today but drink coffee, check out tomorrow's riding on TrailForks, change my brake pads, wash our bikes, check out Fernie's LBSs, transition to beer, and think about upgrades ?

My 4 year old We Are One rear wheel continues to make a bizarre 360 degree spoke related noise under torque. Nobody can figure it out. I intend to send it to We Are One for a diagnosis and possible rebuild.









Spoke noises under load?


Spokes can wear out. They are alot better than they used to be but they will fatigue with use. I don't keep wheels for that long anymore but have had both Mavic and FSA's meet their fatigue life. Mavics would start creaking then they would start breaking. FSA's were j-bend spokes and...




www.mtbr.com





In terms of rainy day fantasizing:

I may also order a mullet wheel set from We Are One and finally install my Ziggy Link. Not sure.

I'm also toying with the idea of ordering a Cascade Link. Is it confirmed the V2 will run with a gen 1 11-6? Is it confirmed it will also run with a Ziggy Link and mullet set up? Has anyone tried this yet? If so, any feedback for us?

Now that I have the proper (or better) spring weight (25 lbs LOWER than that insisted by both PUSH and Suspension Werx), I am ecstatic with my 11-6 and entire bike for that matter (except my noisy rear wheel). The above options are not solutions to problems. I have no problems (except my noisy rear wheel). Fork is great - 36, 150, GRIP2, Luftkappe.

The Ziggy Link, mullet wheelset and Cascade Link are all rainy day options. To be clear, I am so happy with my Druid as it sits. Again, these are just fun options maybe worth trying for the sake of interest and curiosity.

Any comments from the most knowledgeable and trusted collection of Druid experts in the world? Any other suggestions? Secus? Smashpot? AXS dropper (I have an AXS drivetrain)? We Are One Da Package?

Help me spend my hard earned money!!!

Not to sound all sentimental or anything, but man. We are all so fortunate to be able to simply reach out and ask each other for preferences, opinions, input and advice. I owe all you guys for all your invaluable insight to date. Thanks!


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Been on a ziggy since day 1 and now have a cascade. Theyre g2g together.

Glad yall are getting some rain. Crossing the border with the druid next month cant wait.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

[mention]mtnbkrmike [/mention] where did you get your Luftkappe installed (I live in Vancouver)? Was it worth it?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> [mention]mtnbkrmike [/mention] where did you get your Luftkappe installed (I live in Vancouver)? Was it worth it?


I got it installed at Inside Line in Calgary. They also replaced my FIT4 damper with the GRIP2 when they did a December fork service.

I was a little dismayed at first because it felt like I had lost the top part of my travel in sag. Either I got used to it or added a little extra air or something. After some really basic fiddling, I really like it. It definitely takes the edge off repeated hits.

I would say that 90% of biking enthusiasts will find it to be a big improvement for next to no cost. The other 10%, who are the hardest charging on the steepest of steeps, may prefer to give up added plushness for higher travel and a slacker HTA. Those folks are probably better off leaving things Luftkappe-free.

I ride lots of blacks. Some double blacks as well but in my neck of the woods, $hit is considerably more mellow than your stomping grounds. I can say that it's perfect for blacks and double blacks in Canmore, Kananaskis, Fernie, Revy, Golden and Cumberland. Blacks and double blacks in Squamish? Maybe, maybe not. But hey - it's from Vorsprung. I have to think it's good in your area as well.

One good thing about the Luftkappe is that if you don't like it, remove it and sell it next fork service.

In VCR, can't you go to the man himself? Or maybe he doesn't do installs? Or maybe there's a lineup 3 miles long?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I got it installed at Inside Line in Calgary. They also replaced my FIT4 damper with the GRIP2 when they did a December fork service.
> 
> I was a little dismayed at first because it felt like I had lost the top part of my travel in sag. Either I got used to it or added a little extra air or something. After some really basic fiddling, I really like it. It definitely takes the edge off repeated hits.
> 
> ...


The shop in Whistler that does the installations (Vorsprung doesn't do it directly anymore) is only open on weekdays. It's kinda crazy but none of the major bike shops in Vancouver handle Vorsprung installations. Not even Suspensionwerx. How much more sag do you have to run? I like to use 4 clicks of LSC or more to keep my fork from wallowing. Would I mistake the characteristics of the Luftkappe as wallow?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> The shop in Whistler that does the installations (Vorsprung doesn't do it directly anymore) is only open on weekdays. It's kinda crazy but none of the major bike shops in Vancouver handle Vorsprung installations. Not even Suspensionwerx. How much more sag do you have to run? I like to use 4 clicks of LSC or more to keep my fork from wallowing. Would I mistake the characteristics of the Luftkappe as wallow?


Not wallow. Just maybe a slightly lower ride height until you tweak your old settings a little. See below:









Vorsprung Luftkappe air piston kit for Fox 36 forks review


Improve traction and support with this suspension upgrade




www.bikeradar.com





Vorsprung's site also talks about this (read the answer in the FAQs on "who is this NOT suited for":









Luftkappe Air Piston - Fox & Rockshox Forks


Make a good fork a great fork. Introducing the Luftkappe air piston kit for: - Fox 34, 36 & 38- Rockshox Pike, Yari and Lyrik Solo Air forks(compatibility below) Taking everything we learned with the Corset air sleeves, the Luftkappe is a new air piston assembly that enlarges the negative air...




www.vorsprungsuspension.com





"The Luftkappe is outright superior to the stock air spring for nearly everyone, however there are a few cases where it might not be for you:

If you run a Yari (not Lyrik) at 180mm or a Pike at 160mm, it will be quite progressive. You may well like it more than stock anyway, but you may also find it hard to use the last 5-10mm of travel - if this would bother you then have a think about it first. At any lower travels, it will be fine.
If you run your 36 at 180mm, it will be quite progressive. You may like it, but you may also find it hard to use the last 5-10mm of travel - if this would bother you then have a think about it first. At 170mm and below it will be fine.
*If you like running really low sag for some reason. The Luftkappe runs more sag than the stock fork, but is firmer in the mid stroke - similar to a coil fork, but with ending-stroke ramp up to prevent harsh bottoming. If you're the kind of person who wants the fork to run 5% sag, this isn't for you. We could point out that a setup like that probably just means your handlebars are set too low and you're compensating with oversprung suspension, but we aren't here to judge you, so maybe just don't buy it.*
If you're anal about your fork having an exact (but rounded-to-the-nearest-10mm) amount of travel. Because the Luftkappe balances forces at a pneumatic topout, the force right around topout is very low (literally zero other than friction), meaning the weight of the bike alone will cause it to sag a few millimetres. Your car's suspension sags under the vehicle's own weight, so should your bike - unless it was so sticky, overly stiff or over-preloaded that 10kg of bike weight wasn't enough to cause your suspension to move at all, of course. If the idea of only having an apparent 148mm out of a 150mm fork is a big deal for you, stick with the stock fork."
Here is another reasonably reliable review:









Vorsprung Luftkappe


Reviews, ratings, specifications, weight, price and more for the Vorsprung Luftkappe




www.vitalmtb.com





I checked Suspension Werx before posting. I see they dropped Vorsprung. Bizarre. Not sure why. They used to be big fans of all their products.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not wallow. Just maybe a slightly lower ride height until you tweak your old settings a little. See below:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's not that I don't like sag. It's more that I'm trying to follow pressure recommendations for my weight which inevitably lead to say, 10% sag. I weigh 175lbs and I run my fork at 68psi which seems really low.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> It's not that I don't like sag. It's more that I'm trying to follow pressure recommendations for my weight which inevitably lead to say, 10% sag. I weigh 175lbs and I run my fork at 68psi which seems really low.


I run 75 to 80 psi in my fork and I am 185 plus gear. I don't want to eff with my fork. It's perfect. So is my rear suspension for that matter.

I think there is a small risk of you not liking the Luftkappe. But it's inexpensive and 100% reversible. I think there is a much larger chance of you really liking it. But who knows&#8230;


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It's pouring rain here in Fernie. No big deal though because me and my daughter can use a day off the bikes. Plus it needs it bad here - the trails are super dry and loose. Combine that with steep and it's been exciting! Looking forward to some moisture for tomorrow's riding.
> 
> Not to mention all the BC fires still burning out of control
> 
> ...


Regarding your rear wheel, 
Did you ever get it rebuilt with new spokes and nipples?
I had the same wheelset before, cxray spokes on WAO agents/i9 hubs. 
And my spokes did the same thing. (My guess is the flat blade of the spokes have more surface to rub on one another. 
I had the rear wheel rebuilt and it was good to go.

AXS seat post is pretty good, mine seems to be getting a bit saggy on the second season, (it could probably use another service). 
I also use a revive on another bike, and prefer it.

Good to see your out getting a bunch of riding in, we finally got rain here (BC Interior) and the riding was phenomenal this AM.










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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Regarding your rear wheel,
> Did you ever get it rebuilt with new spokes and nipples?
> I had the same wheelset before, cxray spokes on WAO agents/i9 hubs.
> And my spokes did the same thing. (My guess is the flat blade of the spokes have more surface to rub on one another.
> ...


No. Not yet rebuilt. I have my Druid with me in Fernie. It's creaking away but otherwise kicking major a$$ so all good.

Your bike looks wicked. Love the black and silver, and the full EXT. Fantastic!!!

I may be out your way soon. Thinking of a Cumby, Revy, Golden blast.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> No. Not yet rebuilt. I have my Druid with me in Fernie. It's creaking away but otherwise kicking major a$$ so all good.
> 
> Your bike looks wicked. Love the black and silver, and the full EXT. Fantastic!!!
> 
> I may be out your way soon. Thinking of a Cumby, Revy, Golden blast.


Thanks! 
It's treated me well 
I might be moving on from it soon though. 
I'm always down to try something else.

That sounds like a good trip. Especially since it's cooled of, and getting rain. 

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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Question on rear axle torque…

When I replaced my brake pads today, I screwed up by taking the drive side axle nut off. Oops. Then I noticed that the axle had a torque value of 10 NM. Seriously? That seems super low to me for an axle. Especially one that comes undone for lots of folks here. On my torque wrench at least, I am way above 10, and always have been.

Coild this be the cause of my spoke noise? Do you think there is any harm over torquing this? My rear wheel is not binding in any way. It spins 100% freely. I’m wondering whether my torque wrench is off. 

Thanks.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

[mention]Kmag76 [/mention] how do you like the ext era? I have the storia and I love it.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

meeeeep said:


> [mention]Kmag76 [/mention] how do you like the ext era? I have the storia and I love it.


It's pretty amazing!

The front end equivalent to a Druid with Storia, but Probably even better!

If your in the market for a fork, The Mezzer is a close second.










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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Kmag76 said:


> It's pretty amazing!
> 
> The front end equivalent to a Druid with Storia, but Probably even better!
> 
> ...


Sweet looking bike!

What do you like most about the Era? How does it compare to a fox 36? How did you get the RRP proguard to fit?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> It's pretty amazing!
> 
> The front end equivalent to a Druid with Storia, but Probably even better!
> 
> ...


Drooling over the eeWings.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

meeeeep said:


> Sweet looking bike!
> 
> What do you like most about the Era? How does it compare to a fox 36? How did you get the RRP proguard to fit?


The small bump and mid stroke are on another level. The fork works so well that when climbing tech, you can just plow your front wheel into square edge hits and it keeps your momentum going. 
And the mid stroke is amazing in the steeps. 

The fork just tracks the ground so well, like the Druid with Storia

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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

meeeeep said:


> Sweet looking bike!
> 
> What do you like most about the Era? How does it compare to a fox 36? How did you get the RRP proguard to fit?


A couple of M5 water bottle bolts thread into the arch.

It's a tight fit, but works.

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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Question on rear axle torque&#8230;
> 
> When I replaced my brake pads today, I screwed up by taking the drive side axle nut off. Oops. Then I noticed that the axle had a torque value of 10 NM. Seriously? That seems super low to me for an axle. Especially one that comes undone for lots of folks here. On my torque wrench at least, I am way above 10, and always have been.
> 
> ...


This isn't Druid specific but I'd had plenty of issues with axles coming loose and have also broken 2 axles.

What works 100% of the time is using blue thread lock and torqueing to spec every time. No more is needed or desired.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Kmag76 said:


> A couple of M5 water bottle bolts thread into the arch.
> 
> It's a tight fit, but works.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome. This was one of my biggest concerns about the Era lol. I'm never going to ziptied fenders.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Anyone with time on a (stock) Bomber CR or Cane Creek DB Coil?

I’m coil curious, and these two can be had at a lower price.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

here's my steed all coiled up, I cant speak for the era fork but I have a Lyrik (beyond ultimate) that's with a vorsprung coil and an avalanche advantage open bath cartridge damper, it is really good, the harder you hit it the better it is, the Storia is pretty sweet too, interestingly I'm down to a 400# spring with me at 92kg, I do put the dpx2 on every now and then and it is pretty close to the coil. as far as axles I haven't broke one on this but it was a bit chewed out in the hex so I had a custom solid alloy axle machine up, favorite part on the druid is the Direttissimas just next level


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Has anybody made vinyl decals to overlay the factory decals for a color change? If so, would you be willing to share the file so that I could bring it to a sign shop to get some cut?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

incubus said:


> Has anybody made vinyl decals to overlay the factory decals for a color change? If so, would you be willing to share the file so that I could bring it to a sign shop to get some cut?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


@CHWK might be able to help you ???


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

4vdean said:


> here's my steed all coiled up, I cant speak for the era fork but I have a Lyrik (beyond ultimate) that's with a vorsprung coil and an avalanche advantage open bath cartridge damper, it is really good, the harder you hit it the better it is, the Storia is pretty sweet too, interestingly I'm down to a 400# spring with me at 92kg, I do put the dpx2 on every now and then and it is pretty close to the coil. as far as axles I haven't broke one on this but it was a bit chewed out in the hex so I had a custom solid alloy axle machine up, favorite part on the druid is the Direttissimas just next level
> View attachment 1944265


Nice!
I see you're also a fan of Rev grips. So good!
I'm 93KG and went up to a #450, but it was just to stiff. Ive gone back to the #425 with to 2 more clicks of HSC and am loving this bike again.
Ive been contemplating putting myself on the order list for some trickstuff... But the wait list is just crazy. I'm currently using Braking incas2, they are good, but I don't love them.


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Anyone with time on a (stock) Bomber CR or Cane Creek DB Coil?
> 
> I'm coil curious, and these two can be had at a lower price.


Have the CC DBCoil on my Druid. I like, very adjustable but you will want to probably set up your rebound and compression settings before hitting the trails. So if you have settings that you like for chunk or flow trails, I would say write the number of clicks down so you can adjust before you get to the trails. Only other coil I have had is an Ohlins TTX, which I liked but I prefer the tuning options of the Cane Creek. No issues so far, have a Sprindex on for a little more on the fly adjustability. The climb switch isn't always needed for me on the Druid but being able to reduce pedal bob for long climbs is a plus for me.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

rodzilla said:


> Have the CC DBCoil on my Druid. I like, very adjustable but you will want to probably set up your rebound and compression settings before hitting the trails. So if you have settings that you like for chunk or flow trails, I would say write the number of clicks down so you can adjust before you get to the trails. Only other coil I have had is an Ohlins TTX, which I liked but I prefer the tuning options of the Cane Creek. No issues so far, have a Sprindex on for a little more on the fly adjustability. The climb switch isn't always needed for me on the Druid but being able to reduce pedal bob for long climbs is a plus for me.


How long have you had it for? I think my biggest concern with the CC is durability.


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## rodzilla (Jul 11, 2016)

RadicalPugilism said:


> How long have you had it for? I think my biggest concern with the CC is durability.


Over a year now. The coil shocks tend to have less of the durability issues compared to the air shocks. And I believe the air shocks have come a long way in terms of durability based on internet research.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

My 11-6 is killer. I use the 2 circuits continually. I don’t need to. But they are both super wicked, being fully independent. And not just for climbing and the downs. I love mixing it up and using the climb mode on fast flowy downs for some lively poppy fun.

This bike is the total $hit. I am so looking forward to ripping it up tomorrow. We are all so very fortunate. We should never take any of this for granted. These are really good times for bikers in general. And arguably, we are all rocking one of the best bikes available.

Makes me want to cry. Or something. Thank you gods of all things biking.

And yes. I will need to hydrate more then ever tomorrow after the amount of diuretics I have ingested this evening 👍


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

I rode my Druid yesterday after a couple weeks away from it. It is amazing. I just have the regular DPX that comes stock with the frame, I can't even fathom how rad the bike would be with a coil.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> I rode my Druid yesterday after a couple weeks away from it. It is amazing. I just have the regular DPX that comes stock with the frame, I can't even fathom how rad the bike would be with a coil.


It's rad AF with the DPX2. Enjoy. You're not missing out on anything. SERIOUSLY.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> My 11-6 is killer. I use the 2 circuits continually. I don't need to. But they are both super wicked, being fully independent. And not just for climbing and the downs. I love mixing it up and using the climb mode on fast flowy downs for some lively poppy fun.
> 
> This bike is the total $hit. I am so looking forward to ripping it up tomorrow. We are all so very fortunate. We should never take any of this for granted. These are really good times for bikers in general. And arguably, we are all rocking one of the best bikes available.
> 
> ...


The 11-6 seems like the way to go - I just have no experience on a coil.


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## tsurun (Mar 13, 2009)

、


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

tsurun said:


> 、


A man of few words/symbols.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I would have bought an 11-6 if there were local support in Vancouver.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> I would have bought an 11-6 if there were local support in Vancouver.


My LBS sends mine to Suspension Werx in Whistler each winter for servicing. They send stuff back and forth weekly and are happy to include my 11-6 in a couriered shipment for free. I had it back within a couple of weeks, fully serviced. Pretty painless.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

Lowered my lyrik to 150 to test vs 160.

Highly recommend -1 GeoShift even at 150. Corner chomper.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I would have bought an 11-6 if there were local support in Vancouver.


Suspensionwerx on Welch in North Van is a dealer and service depot.
And they're awesome.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

shapethings said:


> Lowered my lyrik to 150 to test vs 160.
> 
> Highly recommend -1 GeoShift even at 150. Corner chomper.
> 
> View attachment 1944663


Are you running a mullet or full 29er?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

After a few more rides, I'm hoping for some input on my shock settings.

I'm really getting along with the mid-stroke; I'm able to pump and get airborne easily. Pedaling feels great. I believe I'm using all or most of the travel on big drops, but they never feel harsh. But over the repeated chunk, the rear end feels really clunky. 

My settings: 
PSI: 188 for the recommended 35%/19 mm of sag
0.6 volume spacer
HSC: open
LSC: (from full clockwise) 11
Rebound: 12
I'm about 195 with all my gear on.

I tried running a click more rebound yesterday for half a run, but went back down after nearly getting bucked off the pedals. I imagine I could try again and just need more time to readjust.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Sounds like you need to speed up the rebound...


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

As an FYI to those who have had occasional clicking/popping noises from the rear suspension like I had, replacing the dust caps seems to have helped. A few months ago, I replaced all the bearing dustcaps with the 'flangeless' version, including in the linkage knuckle, rear triangle, and on the linkage/frame shaft. I have yet to have the clicking noises return, despite a decent amount of riding in dry dust, heavy muck, etc. (knock on wood). That's far longer than I've ever gone on suspension maintenance. The only other part of that maintenance was re-torqueing the main pivot (it seemed a few Nm low). It's a cheap (free!) fix. 

We'll see if things continue after I pull the shock to install RWC roller bearings on the rear shock pivot (another user here said it helped the off-the-top response).


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

hbar said:


> As an FYI to those who have had occasional clicking/popping noises from the rear suspension like I had, replacing the dust caps seems to have helped. A few months ago, I replaced all the bearing dustcaps with the 'flangeless' version, including in the linkage knuckle, rear triangle, and on the linkage/frame shaft. I have yet to have the clicking noises return, despite a decent amount of riding in dry dust, heavy muck, etc. (knock on wood). That's far longer than I've ever gone on suspension maintenance. The only other part of that maintenance was re-torqueing the main pivot (it seemed a few Nm low). It's a cheap (free!) fix.
> 
> We'll see if things continue after I pull the shock to install RWC roller bearings on the rear shock pivot (another user here said it helped the off-the-top response).


Mine sounds like it has a spoke loose. Is this the sound/click you speak of?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dubthang said:


> Mine sounds like it has a spoke loose. Is this the sound/click you speak of?


$hit!!! Maybe what you are describing is what I am experiencing here:









Spoke noises under load?


I sense from your question that spoke fatigue/end of life is a remote possibility… Sorry for slow response -- didn't get the notifications that this had been updated. Wasn't so much thinking end of life as wear at the spoke crosses. The amount you've ridden them surely makes this a...




www.mtbr.com





I just assumed it was a rear wheel/spoke issue.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

alan1 said:


> Are you running a mullet or full 29er?


29/29. My other bike is a full-time mullet. Debating on ditching it, to simplify down to one that can go business or mullet&#8230; but too attached to the other one.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

dubthang said:


> Mine sounds like it has a spoke loose. Is this the sound/click you speak of?


For me, it was clearly suspension. I could compress the suspension, then pick it up, and it would tick/click. you could also hear it click while riding, just going from zero compression. Putting my ear near the linkage (not while riding!), it was apparent that it probably was coming from near there (though the echoes in the frame made it difficult to pinpoint. Other folks located this noise (or a similar one) on their bikes in the linkage knuckle (which is what I'm calling the pivot between the rate control and the linkage itself). For me, it was usually relatively quiet--certainly not something I could hear on a proper chundery trai--and only apparent when the suspension bobbed on moderate terrain/heavy pedaling.

This thread is invaluable, because folks have described a range of slightly different suspension noises, and also clued me in to the modded linkage washers from Forbidden, which was the apparent fix for my noise. Hopefully you figure yours out, and if so, please post!


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## BMcEldorney (Aug 23, 2021)




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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

hbar said:


> For me, it was clearly suspension. I could compress the suspension, then pick it up, and it would tick/click. you could also hear it click while riding, just going from zero compression. Putting my ear near the linkage (not while riding!), it was apparent that it probably was coming from near there (though the echoes in the frame made it difficult to pinpoint. Other folks located this noise (or a similar one) on their bikes in the linkage knuckle (which is what I'm calling the pivot between the rate control and the linkage itself). For me, it was usually relatively quiet--certainly not something I could hear on a proper chundery trai--and only apparent when the suspension bobbed on moderate terrain/heavy pedaling.
> 
> This thread is invaluable, because folks have described a range of slightly different suspension noises, and also clued me in to the modded linkage washers from Forbidden, which was the apparent fix for my noise. Hopefully you figure yours out, and if so, please post!


I've had very similar noises...I just greased the hell out of the bike...have re-built it twice now with ~500 miles of riding. Frankly, I will bot be buying another Forbidden...too much of a pain and too many little problems.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

BMcEldorney said:


> HELP
> 
> I purchased a Druid size medium frame 2 weeks ago. I am a 120 lb. woman. My husband is a bike mechanic and builds all our bikes custom. This is the first high pivot platform we have used. I'm having major issues with shifting. We have looked extensively into all of Forbidden's YouTube tutorials, Forbiddens website manuals, and friends we knew rode a Druid. They also said they had had issues setting the B gap and getting it to shift well and they were 140lbs. We have set the B gap according to reccomendations, we have adjusted the chain guide little by little. We have removed 2 chain links and 4 chain links (started with 128). A Forbidden rep recommended to remove 2 links. We brought the bike to a local shop with 3 generations of experience, they are mennonite and well versed in bikes. They could not figure it out. The one guy even said that maybe it was a lemon. We put all new componenets on the bike. Its a 50 toothe cassette, a 30 round chain ring, Sram drivetrain as well as Sram chain. I have the sag set to 35%. Does anyone else have experience as a light rider how they got their shifting set up? Thanks!!
> Beth


Hi Beth,
Please post a picture of the drivetrain in the lowest and highest gear. Also, describe the shifting issue specifically so one of us can help you. Can't see how weight plays into shifting performance.
The pics will help us see your setup and maybe someone has the same components.
Cheers


----------



## hothb (May 20, 2015)

BMcEldorney said:


> HELP
> 
> I purchased a Druid size medium frame 2 weeks ago. I am a 120 lb. woman. My husband is a bike mechanic and builds all our bikes custom. This is the first high pivot platform we have used. I'm having major issues with shifting. We have looked extensively into all of Forbidden's YouTube tutorials, Forbiddens website manuals, and friends we knew rode a Druid. They also said they had had issues setting the B gap and getting it to shift well and they were 140lbs. We have set the B gap according to reccomendations, we have adjusted the chain guide little by little. We have removed 2 chain links and 4 chain links (started with 128). A Forbidden rep recommended to remove 2 links. We brought the bike to a local shop with 3 generations of experience, they are mennonite and well versed in bikes. They could not figure it out. The one guy even said that maybe it was a lemon. We put all new componenets on the bike. Its a 50 toothe cassette, a 30 round chain ring, Sram drivetrain as well as Sram chain. I have the sag set to 35%. Does anyone else have experience as a light rider how they got their shifting set up? Thanks!!
> Beth


I suggest setting it up using the Eagle plastic B screw tool exactly how SRAM suggests (at sag)...don't do it the way Forbidden suggests...I've found that not to work for SRAM drivetrains. Chainlength should be 126 (per Forbidden's suggestion). I've done it this way on three Druids (all with AXS) and its shifted flawlessly.

good luck


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

hothb said:


> I suggest setting it up using the Eagle plastic B screw tool exactly how SRAM suggests (at sag)...don't do it the way Forbidden suggests...I've found that not to work for SRAM drivetrains. Chainlength should be 126 (per Forbidden's suggestion). I've done it this way on three Druids (all with AXS) and its shifted flawlessly.
> 
> good luck


Completely agree with this - honestly AXS revolutionized the shifting on the Druid. Prior to installing it, I'd fiddle with the microshift adjuster multiple times per ride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Agreed...AXS is just so crisp and the micro adjustments you can make seem to really make a big difference with this bike. That said, my buddy has cable Eagle and same technique worked for him...he was the one that told me not to follow the Forbidden guide but use the SRAM technique instead. :dunno:


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

hothb said:


> I've had very similar noises...I just greased the hell out of the bike...have re-built it twice now with ~500 miles of riding. Frankly, I will bot be buying another Forbidden...too much of a pain and too many little problems.


I hear what you're saying, but if you haven't tried it with the new bearing spacer/covers installed, I think that's worth a shot. They are easy to get and install. Just greasing definitely didn't work beyond the short term for me.

That, and switching to a lighter chain lube (dumonde tech quickly made goo form on the idler for whatever reason) were big steps in upping my satisfaction with the bike.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

BMcEldorney said:


> HELP
> 
> I purchased a Druid size medium frame 2 weeks ago. I am a 120 lb. woman. My husband is a bike mechanic and builds all our bikes custom. This is the first high pivot platform we have used. I'm having major issues with shifting. We have looked extensively into all of Forbidden's YouTube tutorials, Forbiddens website manuals, and friends we knew rode a Druid. They also said they had had issues setting the B gap and getting it to shift well and they were 140lbs. We have set the B gap according to reccomendations, we have adjusted the chain guide little by little. We have removed 2 chain links and 4 chain links (started with 128). A Forbidden rep recommended to remove 2 links. We brought the bike to a local shop with 3 generations of experience, they are mennonite and well versed in bikes. They could not figure it out. The one guy even said that maybe it was a lemon. We put all new componenets on the bike. Its a 50 toothe cassette, a 30 round chain ring, Sram drivetrain as well as Sram chain. I have the sag set to 35%. Does anyone else have experience as a light rider how they got their shifting set up? Thanks!!
> Beth


I'm going to continue to let the other, more mechanically gifted members chime in. Take my comments with a grain of salt, and with that in mind.

I will say though that running a SRAM drivetrain on my Druid has posed some challenges at times. I suspect that the dramatic chain growth exacerbates what some might say are finicky issues that seem to be inherent in some 12 speed SRAM drivetrains, on any bike.

If you smacked your rear d while it was on a prior build (not sure if you built the Druid with used components), I suspect that any slight tweaks to it are going to be hugely exacerbated with the Druid. I struggled for 2 years with mine and then replaced the drivetrain this year with an AXS system. I am pretty sure my rear d was bent from some pretty heavy crashes in the past. In fact, I know it was bent. I twisted that X01 rear d when I rode with the late great Travis Bickle in Cumberland (later known as legbacon, the guy who started this thread). The dudes at Dodge City Cycle were convinced they had got it back perfect. It was close, and certainly rideable on my Sight, but still off slightly (I suspect). $hit went full sideways when I swapped the drivetrain from my Sight to the Druid.

Every shop I know tells me that 12 speed SRAM drivetrains can be finicky on any bike. This includes what is reputably the largest brick and mortar lbs in the world, and also my local Forbidden dealer (a small, niche shop). People have crapped all over me for posting this, but that is what I have been told by top mechanics in my area (some of whom were former team mechanics). My bet is that the Druid's rearward axle path has the potential of ramping these irritating issues up tenfold.

Bent hanger, twisted rear d and finicky b tension with a very narrow sweet spot. Those have all been the culprits for me. But since switching to AXS with the new rear d, things have been incredible. Finally! I I don't know whether it was AXS that did it - I think it may have been the new, untweaked rear d. At least that's my theory.

Regardless, since switching to AXS, life has been awesome. AXS was the best bike related purchase I made this year.

Take what I said with a grain of salt. I ride. I let the mechanics wrench. I am just sharing my very high level musings with you.

Good luck. I hope you get things sorted.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

hothb said:


> I suggest setting it up using the Eagle plastic B screw tool exactly how SRAM suggests (at sag)...don't do it the way Forbidden suggests...I've found that not to work for SRAM drivetrains. Chainlength should be 126 (per Forbidden's suggestion). I've done it this way on three Druids (all with AXS) and its shifted flawlessly.
> 
> good luck


one thing to keep in mind when "modifying" the drive train from Forbidden's recommendations is that it may potentially impact appropriate chain length. be sure to cycle the rear suspension to make sure you aren't binding.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

God damn these bikes are a pain in the ass. lol.


hbar said:


> I hear what you're saying, but if you haven't tried it with the new bearing spacer/covers installed, I think that's worth a shot. They are easy to get and install. Just greasing definitely didn't work beyond the short term for me.
> 
> That, and switching to a lighter chain lube (dumonde tech quickly made goo form on the idler for whatever reason) were big steps in upping my satisfaction with the bike.


I get that. I love wrenching...but I much prefer riding, ha! I give these guys slack as they are small and still new but the little things add up and re driving me nuts.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Have you AXS guys tried running shimano casettes and chains? If so, how do you like it over SRAM casettes and chains?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

hothb said:


> God damn these bikes are a pain in the ass. lol.
> 
> I get that. I love wrenching...but I much prefer riding, ha! I give these guys slack as they are small and still new but the little things add up and re driving me nuts.


I'll take a little extra maintenance [which I often forget to do anyways] to have more fun. The juice is very much worth the squeeze.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> Have you AXS guys tried running shimano casettes and chains? If so, how do you like it over SRAM casettes and chains?


Mine is straight XX1 with a RF Next R crank and ring. There is a thread on this, though not limited to the Druid.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Gah. Just replaced all the worn pivot spacers with the new style. Still have a click.

I’d be pissed if I hadn’t gone to pick them up in person, and ended up spending the week riding Cumberland.  (it was worth the trip).


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

meeeeep said:


> Have you AXS guys tried running shimano casettes and chains? If so, how do you like it over SRAM casettes and chains?


I have 1 bike set up Sram AXS, 1 bike Shimano 12speed XT/XTR and another bike with a mix of AXS AND Shimano XT/XTR 
Definitely prefer the shimano shifting, and the mix is pretty amazing 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I have 1 bike set up Sram AXS, 1 bike Shimano 12speed XT/XTR and another bike with a mix of AXS AND Shimano XT/XTR
> Definitely prefer the shimano shifting, and the mix is pretty amazing
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interesting. I just got back from an evening ride and my non-Shimano AXS drivetrain blew me away. Again. As always.

The link I was talking about above is as follows:









SRAM AXS derailleur on a Shimano drivetrain?


Anyone here running a SRAM AXS derailleur on an otherwise fully Shimano drivetrain? I'm running SLX right now and want to go AXS without having to swap the entire drivetrain. Results? Tips?




www.mtbr.com





I have heard all sorts of stories, from one end of the extreme to the other, about the AXS Shimano mix and match drivetrain experience. I think it just depends...


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Interesting. I just got back from an evening ride and my non-Shimano AXS drivetrain blew me away. Again. As always.
> 
> The link I was talking about above is as follows:
> 
> ...


You are right, Sram AXS is great! And You will find pros and cons to each setup.

Thanks for the link! I'll have to check it out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> You are right, Sram AXS is great! And You will find pros and cons to each setup.
> 
> Thanks for the link! I'll have to check it out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Without a doubt, my AXS is the best bike-related purchase I made in 2021. Despite the world-wide shortages, I managed to make a lot of bike-related purchases, so this is really saying something.

I bought it reluctantly to replace a mangled rear d. It's all my LBS had at the time. I felt like I had no choice. I had no idea it would bring the amount of joy it has. I hated SRAM before that purchase. Now I am back in love with them.

I had very low expectations going into the whole AXS thing, so maybe others won't feel as elated as I do about it. It's an expensive and extravagant purchase, but crisp precise shifting every single shift, is just so satisfying.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Gah. Just replaced all the worn pivot spacers with the new style. Still have a click.
> 
> I'd be pissed if I hadn't gone to pick them up in person, and ended up spending the week riding Cumberland.  (it was worth the trip).


Bummer! Was hoping it was a more general fix. And the folks at the source, so to speak, weren't any help? that's not great. hope you find it


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> God damn these bikes are a pain in the ass. lol.
> 
> I get that. I love wrenching...but I much prefer riding, ha! I give these guys slack as they are small and still new but the little things add up and re driving me nuts.


As I said to a guy at the trailhead Sunday, it's like owning a semi-exotic sports car. It's not for everyone. I'm on my third idler, third lower chain guide roller, V2 linkage, and it took a long time to get some SRAM drivetrain woes sorted. But man, that thing is a beautiful piece of industrial art, and it climbs as well as it descends. Maybe better. This is my third full season on it and I continue to be blown away every single ride. As soon as the ride ends, I am thinking about the next one. I have owned many bikes, but none that have made me feel the way this one does.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

For the amount of travel (and arguably out-dated geo) these bikes are crazy capable no question about it...they do look good too


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

After 1200 miles and 200k feet it was time to try out the Unions and hydra, while I had it apart I took the verbal advice and went to 450 spring from 475 for 200lb rider and serviced the BB. I really like this bike.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

hbar said:


> Bummer! Was hoping it was a more general fix. And the folks at the source, so to speak, weren't any help? that's not great. hope you find it


I didn't bug them about the click. They were just replacing the worn spacers.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> After 1200 miles and 200k feet it was time to try out the Unions and hydra, while I had it apart I took the verbal advice and went to 450 spring from 475 for 200lb rider and serviced the BB. I really like this bike.
> View attachment 1945304
> View attachment 1945305


What are the decals? I can't seem to make it out from the pics.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I didn't bug them about the click. They were just replacing the worn spacers.


Aaand the click is gone. It was the idler. New SS idler in place. It's nice and quiet.

Apparently it's the first non-proto out in the field.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Aaand the click is gone. It was the idler. New SS idler in place. It's nice and quiet.
> 
> Apparently it's the first non-proto out in the field.
> 
> View attachment 1945504


That pic is dope. Someone who definitely shreds.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Quick question…

Would the Ziggy mess with the tune on my 11-6? Is this a reason to not run both together, or send the 11-6 back to get retuned if I run the Ziggy? Maybe a question for PUSH/Suspension Werx…


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> What are the decals? I can't seem to make it out from the pics.


I started a side project called SlothWorks because it makes me laugh and I don't take anything too serious. It began with some fork decals and whatnot then jerseys and now sloths in Space. I only really lose money or break even but I like seeing my stuff in the wild around bham more than I like trying to make money. This stuff is expensive enough as it is.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> I started a side project called SlothWorks because it makes me laugh and I don't take anything too serious. It began with some fork decals and whatnot then jerseys and now sloths in Space. I only really lose money or break even but I like seeing my stuff in the wild around bham more than I like trying to make money. This stuff is expensive enough as it is.
> 
> View attachment 1945537
> 
> ...


There was a much bigger story behind this than I suspected. Nice work!!!


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> That pic is dope. Someone who definitely shreds.


Mostly just my shins, but thanks!!

Followup, 30k of climbing plus black descents, and the click is banished. Check your idlers for mystery clicks.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

meeeeep said:


> That pic is dope. Someone who definitely shreds.


Surprised their rubber chain guard is still attached


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

phazedalx said:


> Surprised their rubber chain guard is still attached


Mines still attached after 1 year and 1300km.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

phazedalx said:


> Surprised their rubber chain guard is still attached


Hahahaha. Sometimes it's just open when I get home, but it hasn't dumped the chain yet.
I've replaced both upper and lower idlers/rollers twice already since I built the bike in November. Maybe 3k km on it?
Related, the threads on the rear chain retainer mount on the swing arm were borked from the start. I had to put a spacer under the screw head to get it tight. Somehow it's still attached. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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## h0ffentlich (Dec 18, 2020)

Here´s my Moss Mullet. Just changed to a coil. After one year of riding air really an eye opener again. Love this bike !


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Hahahaha. Sometimes it's just open when I get home, but it hasn't dumped the chain yet.
> I've replaced both upper and lower idlers/rollers twice already since I built the bike in November. Maybe 3k km on it?
> Related, the threads on the rear chain retainer mount on the swing arm were borked from the start. I had to put a spacer under the screw head to get it tight. Somehow it's still attached. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Its the Ti screws I think. I've encountered resistance on the screws for the mud guard and upper chain guide and have gotten nervous. Replacing them with regular non Ti screws I had lying around and they thread right in easy.


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## h0ffentlich (Dec 18, 2020)

Yeah i also noticed the mud guard screws screw in pretty fiddly.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

h0ffentlich said:


> Yeah i also noticed the mud guard screws screw in pretty fiddly.


If I recall correctly, a guy at my LBS retapped his. He wasn't all that thrilled with me keeping a tube, levers, CO2 and a few other goodies in there as a reverse SWAT Box, for fear of me cross threading the screws from occasionally accessing it. To date, the only time I have gone in there is to reposition things when they got loose and started making a racket.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Quick question&#8230;
> 
> Would the Ziggy mess with the tune on my 11-6? Is this a reason to not run both together, or send the 11-6 back to get retuned if I run the Ziggy? Maybe a question for PUSH/Suspension Werx&#8230;


This wasn't a very good question. I spoke with Forbidden. Unlike the Cascade Link, there is no material impact on the tuning of the 11-6 running the Ziggy Link because there is no resulting change in leverage ratio when switching over to the Ziggy Link.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

This is what remains of my third idler:









Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is what remains of my third idler:
> 
> View attachment 1945657
> 
> Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


Wow. Do you run an sram or shimano transmission?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

incubus said:


> Wow. Do you run an sram or shimano transmission?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


SRAM XX1 AXS this season. SRAM X01 for the two seasons before that.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is what remains of my third idler:
> 
> View attachment 1945657
> 
> Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


Wow! Honestly, I recommend the Jank component adapter and 16T Wipperman sprocket. Almost as quiet as a regular drivetrain and easily the #1 upgrade I've done for the Druid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Should mention I used an Enduro 6902 Solid Lube bearing so it requires almost no maintenance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> Wow! Honestly, I recommend the Jank component adapter and 16T Wipperman sprocket. Almost as quiet as a regular drivetrain and easily the #1 upgrade I've done for the Druid.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. How would you compare this option against the NSB SS idler option? I am told that the NSB SS idler should be good almost the life of the frame. Or at least the life of the remaining drivetrain components. I'm counting on the NSB SS idler to eliminate this nagging irritation on my Druid.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thanks. How would you compare this option against the NSB SS idler option? I am told that the NSB SS idler should be good almost the life of the frame. Or at least the life of the remaining drivetrain components. I'm counting on the NSB SS idler to eliminate this nagging irritation on my Druid.


So I only tried the aluminum version - and it's just as "loud" as stock (figures with the same tooth shape). Eric of Jank recommended the Wipperman setup if I wanted durability and quiet - and it has been unreal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is what remains of my third idler:
> 
> View attachment 1945657
> 
> Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


wow! someone's got leg power to burn


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is what remains of my third idler:
> 
> View attachment 1945657
> 
> Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


I can hear this photo.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> This is what remains of my third idler:
> 
> View attachment 1945657
> 
> Still waiting for the SS NSB idler to drop at my LBS.


JFC...how much do you ride man!?!?!?

mine has 350 miles and looks brand new still...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> JFC...how much do you ride man!?!?!?
> 
> mine has 350 miles and looks brand new still...


I am wondering whether maybe my lube may have contributed to this deterioration. I ride lots but JFC - not THAT much. There are numerous teeth literally missing from that idler. That said, the rest of my drivetrain seems fine so if it is lube-related, it did not impact any other drivetrain components. All of this is a little concerning.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

SRAM or Shimano?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am wondering whether maybe my lube may have contributed to this deterioration. I ride lots but JFC - not THAT much. There are numerous teeth literally missing from that idler. That said, the rest of my drivetrain seems fine so if it is lube-related, it did not impact any other drivetrain components. All of this is a little concerning.


How many miles do you think you have on that idler? 1000?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

@hothb - SRAM XX1 AXS this season. SRAM X01 for the two seasons before that.



johnsogr said:


> How many miles do you think you have on that idler? 1000?


I don't know how many miles. But I have been obsessed. Not like a lot of the animals on here, but if I miss even one day, I feel guilty. And sad.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Is it normal to have oil in the air can? I opened mine up tonight to put in a .4 spacer. I wasn’t expecting anything inside so I spilled a little bit…


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

ithinkibrokeit said:


> I started a side project called SlothWorks because it makes me laugh and I don't take anything too serious. It began with some fork decals and whatnot then jerseys and now sloths in Space. I only really lose money or break even but I like seeing my stuff in the wild around bham more than I like trying to make money. This stuff is expensive enough as it is.


Sloth love Chunk!


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

The newest addition to look at when you see me broken on the side of the trail.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Is it normal to have oil in the air can? I opened mine up tonight to put in a .4 spacer. I wasn't expecting anything inside so I spilled a little bit&#8230;


I believe it is. I've never rebuilt a Float X2 but when you service the air can on a DPX2 you pour the contents of a Fox pillow pack into the air can and lube some surfaces before sealing it back up.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Anyone mess with volume spacer in their DPX2? Picked up a set today and am doing a service this weekend, might throw one in there, but there are 3 options...


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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Removed.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

If its a medium sure


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Anyone mess with volume spacer in their DPX2? Picked up a set today and am doing a service this weekend, might throw one in there, but there are 3 options...


I was running a 0.6 from the previous owner who said he was at about the same weight as me (190 kitted). I liked the resistance off of big drops, but felt like the shock was too harsh over chatter. I swapped to the 0.4 and it feels so good now. A very noticeable improvement. The ride is much less jarring, but still no problems taking drops. I might want a little more mid-stroke support, but that should just be a small adjustment to the LSC.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Anybody want a spare rear triangle? Raw carbon color with some gouges from a dropped chain, but no cracks or damage beyond that. Includes all bearings in good working order. No longer have the frame so if someone wants to pay for shipping, I will send it out. If not, gonna toss it.
> 
> View attachment 1947197
> View attachment 1947198


Is that what most you guys are seeing for damage from chain slap?

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## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

phazedalx said:


> If its a medium sure


Size Large, sorry forgot to include that.



jay_paradox said:


> Is that what most you guys are seeing for damage from chain slap?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe this was more of an issue with my setup as I never had the problem again. I had a worn idler pulley and a chain that was a touch too short. I believe the extra tension put on the chain during a compression ripped it off of the idler. Didn't help that I tried to continue pedaling before I figured out what had happened.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

All rear triangles are the same size, front triangles differ 


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

jay_paradox said:


> Is that what most you guys are seeing for damage from chain slap?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I dunno what's going on there. I have zero damage on my chainstay.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Login • Instagram

A quick blast on my backyard trail. XL Druid. It delivers!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

QuickSilverZ said:


> Size Large, sorry forgot to include that.
> 
> I believe this was more of an issue with my setup as I never had the problem again. I had a worn idler pulley and a chain that was a touch too short. I believe the extra tension put on the chain during a compression ripped it off of the idler. Didn't help that I tried to continue pedaling before I figured out what had happened.


Oh-oh.

I am running a standard length 126 link XX1 chain with no added links, on a large frame, with a 50 tooth Eagle cassette and a 28 tooth ring.

I bet that is why my idler looks like the photo in post 3553 on the previous page.

$hit.


----------



## QuickSilverZ (Oct 23, 2011)

Ran the same setup but had a 32t up front. Just a tad too short


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Got some custom gloss moss rim decals for the old girl. This build is gonna be pretty sweet.


----------



## nmxtrdr (Sep 30, 2008)

Cascade Link owners, any long term feedback? Biggest improvement with the link? Biggest drawback?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Got some custom gloss moss rim decals for the old girl. This build is gonna be pretty sweet.
> 
> View attachment 1947522


Looks awesome so far! Just don't let Paul Ashton do a hot lap or two on it&#8230;?

I kid! I kid!


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I liked it! But my favorite shock (having tried DPX2, Push, Storia, and Mara) is Avy tuned Bomber on the OEM link. 

All that said, if anyone wants a Cascade B1 (latest) link shoot me a DM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Looks awesome so far! Just don't let Paul Ashton do a hot lap or two on it&#8230;?
> 
> I kid! I kid!


Thanks man!

Funny you say that. Discovered the rear rim was cracked when putting the decals on. Thankfully having it warrantied through ENVE. They were surprisingly cool to deal with. I can say that I've had these wheels for 5 years and this is the first issue i've experienced.

Probably in the minority on that one


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Thanks man!
> 
> Funny you say that. Discovered the rear rim was cracked when putting the decals on. Thankfully having it warrantied through ENVE. They were surprisingly cool to deal with. I can say that I've had these wheels for 5 years and this is the first issue i've experienced.
> 
> Probably in the minority on that one


I'm only kidding. I had a set of Enves. I skill-lessly smashed those things like there was no tomorrow, without so much as a whimper.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

nmxtrdr said:


> Cascade Link owners, any long term feedback? Biggest improvement with the link? Biggest drawback?


I'm running a DPX2 and found the OEM setup ,even with the largest volume spacer, resulted in poor small bump sensitivity at the pressures needed to run for reducing bottoming out. Riding weight is 190ish pounds and I had 165psi in the shock, open compression, and open rebound.
Rebuilt the DPX2 a couple months ago and removed the negative volume space, which makes it softer on the initial stroke. At the same time, installed the cascade link.
With a fair number of miles on it, I can say I won't go back to the OEM link. I have much better small bump compliance and can run higher pressures, which give me more support and reduced bottom outs. I still bottom out more than I want to see but it's much better. Bonus is that I'm not running open compression and rebound anymore, so I actually have a tuneable shock. My current setup is 190psi, 4 clicks of rebound, and 3 clicks of compression.
I'd recommend the link with the DPX2, but can't speak for other shock setups.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

johnsogr said:


> I liked it! But my favorite shock (having tried DPX2, Push, Storia, and Mara) is Avy tuned Bomber on the OEM link.
> 
> All that said, if anyone wants a Cascade B1 (latest) link shoot me a DM.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sweet! That's also the path I am pursuing, but Avy has so much order backlog that I still need to wait a few weeks before I get my modded Bomber CR. What's your riding weight and which spring rate did you go with if you don't mind me asking?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Yes the tuned shock is fantastic on this bike. I’m 170 and went with a 400 lbs spring per Craig’s recommendation. I got the spring through him as he has quite an opinion regarding spring quality (e.g. he does not like Fox SLS springs at all).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

johnsogr said:


> Yes the tuned shock is fantastic on this bike. I'm 170 and went with a 400 lbs spring per Craig's recommendation. I got the spring through him as he has quite an opinion regarding spring quality (e.g. he does not like Fox SLS springs at all).


I've heard similar levels of contempt for Rock Shox springs - that they can vary by more than 25#.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

As an FYI, here's a silly thing you all probably haven't done, but just in case:

The blind hole for the front shock bolt is not very deep. I've taken the front shock bolt on and off quite a bit (it's the first step for any suspension work, pretty much), and apparently I'm a bit too generous with the blue Loctite. The last time I went to install, I torqued the bolt to spec, but when I took the bike off the stand, something still felt 'loose' with the bike unweighted. I re-checked the torque on all the suspension bolts, and it was still there.

After an hour torqueing, listening to everything, and feeling for unwanted movement, I realized that the front shock mount was likely the problem. So, I replaced the shock bushings, but it was still there. It turns out I had not cleaned out the blind hole well enough, and the front bolt was partially torqueing down on old Loctite, rather than just the bearing surfaces. This made the mount ever so slightly loose. I cleaned it out, and now it's all snugged up and feels great (I replaced the rear shock bushings with RWC needle bearings, and that feels super smooth; we'll see if I notice anything performance-wise). While the blind hole looks great on the bike, it isn't so great for easily keeping tabs on old crud in the threads.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

johnsogr said:


> Yes the tuned shock is fantastic on this bike. I'm 170 and went with a 400 lbs spring per Craig's recommendation. I got the spring through him as he has quite an opinion regarding spring quality (e.g. he does not like Fox SLS springs at all).
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am around 160 pounds riding weight, so I am guessing 350 or 400 spring. I'll go with what Craig recommends.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Should also consider a 375. Talk to Craig, but my guess is 400 as I’m right at 170 and have a couple of rotations of preload. If you’re thinking about using a Sprindex, at least don’t bring it up to Craig, he loathes them…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> Should also consider a 375. Talk to Craig, but my guess is 400 as I'm right at 170 and have a couple of rotations of preload. If you're thinking about using a Sprindex, at least don't bring it up to Craig, he loathes them&#8230;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not to cause $hit but I hope you guys had better luck with Craig than I did. Not sure if I caught him at a bad time, but HOLY CRAP! Absolute rage!


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Not to cause $hit but I hope you guys had better luck with Craig than I did. Not sure if I caught him at a bad time, but HOLY CRAP! Absolute rage!


Craig is definitely a character and very opinionated, but I have no problem with that. He tuned a RS shock for my YT Jeffsy a few years ago and I was very satisfied with the result.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Agreed, I just swallow my pride when I talk to him. Must say though, I got a Hybrid Coil setup from him for my Yari, and was disappointed, thought it was too harsh at 25% sag. I talked to him for a while on the phone, and he suggested increasing air pressure for sag closer to 20%. I was skeptical but he was totally right, unbelievable fork. Lesson learned…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

It is crazy seeing peoples idlers completely thrashed, my original is at 1,850 km's (granted I have upkept it to the best of my abilities. My original chain just hit 50% wear aswell)
On a unrelated side note, what are others getting out of their pivot bearings in terms of lifespan? I have a intermittent creak that I cannot pinpoint, seems to occur mostly when pedaling (seated or standing). I have cleaned and regreased all of the suspension bits aswell as the crank/bb. I have swapped out the idler, chain and pedals to no avail.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Outlawed said:


> It is crazy seeing peoples idlers completely thrashed, my original is at 1,850 km's (granted I have upkept it to the best of my abilities. My original chain just hit 50% wear aswell)
> On a unrelated side note, what are others getting out of their pivot bearings in terms of lifespan? I have a intermittent creak that I cannot pinpoint, seems to occur mostly when pedaling (seated or standing). I have cleaned and regreased all of the suspension bits aswell as the crank/bb. I have swapped out the idler, chain and pedals to no avail.


Hate to say it, but that idler is done. Once it's worn to that point, it's bad for your chain, just like a worn cassette or chainring.

As for pivots, I am well past 3k at this point (hard to get an exact number because I don't strava secret stuff), and the bearings are as good as new. I did however wear out the rate-linkage bolt and all the spacers on the linkage arm and rear swingarm. I've repacked the bearings a couple times with fresh grease, and pulled the whole thing apart to clean several times, but it's lasting better than I expected TBH. For comparison, at 200lbs, I am pretty hard on bearings, and trashed my lower link bearings in my Nomad every other year, despite constantly injecting grease and cleaning them.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3157502/



Which one of you is this? lol...well done!


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## Suns_PSD (Dec 13, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Should also consider a 375. Talk to Craig, but my guess is 400 as I'm right at 170 and have a couple of rotations of preload. If you're thinking about using a Sprindex, at least don't bring it up to Craig, he loathes them&#8230;
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I love that guy. But now I have to ask why does he hate the Springdex so much?

Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Has anyone had a problem with rear wheel spoke noise while climbing/under torque, on the Druid?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Suns_PSD said:


> I love that guy. But now I have to ask why does he hate the Springdex so much?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G715A using Tapatalk


Basically says it can be way off, poorly constructed, and that the twisty part breaks a bunch. I had no idea coil springs could be so different&#8230;

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Cascade link on order. Anyone running one with the Float x2?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Got the build (mostly) finished today. Still chasing some druid/eagle shifting issues leaving me missing my 11spd, but got it close enough to get a few miles in this weekend. Stoked on how the bike came out!

Specs:

Frame: 2019 Druid Large

Shock: Fox DPX2

Fork: Custom 140mm Pike 29 with 40mm offset steerer. Charger RCT3, MRP Ramp control and gloss moss decals

Rims: 29 ENVE M70/30 HV with custom gloss moss decals

Hubs: DT 240

Front Tire: 29" 2.35 Hans D

Rear Tire: 29" Rock Razor tough casing with vittoria insert

Brakes: Shimano M8000 XT with metallic pads

Rotors: Shimano XT 180mm Front & Rear

Handlebar: ENVE DH cut to 760mm with gloss moss decal

Headset: Works 2*

Dropper Post: PNW loam 150mm

Dropper Lever: OneUp

Stem: Spank Split 43mm, 31.8 Clamp

Cranks: Sram X0 175mm, 30t Eagle ring

Cassette: GX Eagle

Rear Derailleur: Sram X01 Eagle

Shifter: GX Eagle

Chain: GX Eagle

Bottom Bracket: Sram GXP

Saddle: Specialized Power 155mm

Pedals: DMR Vault


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Has anyone had a problem with rear wheel spoke noise while climbing/under torque, on the Druid?


I haven't, mtnbkrmike, but I've seen what you've done to idlers...now you're pedaling wheels into submission?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Has anyone had a problem with rear wheel spoke noise while climbing/under torque, on the Druid?


Funny you say this because this just happened to me yesterday. I'm chalking it up to it being a brand new wheel just needing some tightening after initial tire inflation and the first couple rides.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> Funny you say this because this just happened to me yesterday. I'm chalking it up to it being a brand new wheel just needing some tightening after initial tire inflation and the first couple rides.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From outta nowhere, all of a sudden I've got all sorts of noise coming from two different wheels that were previously fine. The experts are confounded.

This has been the worst year in my life for bike related issues. I can't seem to string more than a couple of weeks together without something going sideways on me.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Has anyone had a problem with rear wheel spoke noise while climbing/under torque, on the Druid?


No issues after 2 solid years on a NOBL/Onyx build. The rest of the bike is clapped to hell, but not a peep out of the wheels.

You've done a de-tension/re-tension? Tried a different rear wheel? Edit: tried a third rear wheel?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> No issues after 2 solid years on a NOBL/Onyx build. The rest of the bike is clapped to hell, but not a peep out of the wheels.
> 
> You've done a de-tension/re-tension? Tried a different rear wheel? Edit: tried a third rear wheel?


We Are One rebuilt my Insiders after retensioning by Bow. I just got them back yesterday. It feels like an empty box. Lol. Haven't tried them yet.

I have been using my WAO Agents on the Druid in the meantime. Same noise has started with them.

sigh


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> We Are One rebuilt my Insiders after retensioning by Bow. I just got them back yesterday. It feels like an empty box. Lol. Haven't tried them yet.
> 
> I have been using my WAO Agents on the Druid in the meantime. Same noise has started with them.
> 
> sigh


Damn. It's obviously the WAO wheels. Drop them off at my place in Calgary and I'll dispose of them for you.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> Damn. It's obviously the WAO wheels. Drop them off at my place in Calgary and I'll dispose of them for you.


Hahahaha. We Are One has been fantastic working with me on this. I think a more likely explanation is me and my effin $hit karma of late. Bad vibes. It's affected my phone, my laptop, and now my wheels.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Hahahaha. We Are One has been fantastic working with me on this. I think a more likely explanation is me and my effin $hit karma of late. Bad vibes. It's affected my phone, my laptop, and now my wheels.


You may want to lay low for a few days then until your karma improves.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Time to disassemble the entire bike and grease everything up nice and proper. Eliminate all the potential creaks and groans.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

CHWK said:


> Time to disassemble the entire bike and grease everything up nice and proper. Eliminate all the potential creaks and groans.


That would drive me crazy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

If I could post the short video clip I have, I would. You would be shocked at the racket these things are making. It’s ridiculous.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

I bought my pivot switchblade several years ago and have done minimal maintenance on it. It’s silent. That’s what I expect from a bike now especially for what they cost these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> We Are One rebuilt my Insiders after retensioning by Bow. I just got them back yesterday. It feels like an empty box. Lol. Haven't tried them yet.
> 
> I have been using my WAO Agents on the Druid in the meantime. Same noise has started with them.
> 
> sigh


Are you sure it's the spokes?
I had some nasty clicking on my XX1 cassette, which I thought was the axle or spokes, but turned out to be the cassette creaking. I started greasing the crap out of XD cassettes and haven't had the problem since. They have a false torque problem that's pretty common:


https://www.pinkbike.com/u/nate-at-bikeco-com/blog/xx1-cassette-install--creak-check.html


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> Got the build (mostly) finished today. Still chasing some druid/eagle shifting issues leaving me missing my 11spd, but got it close enough to get a few miles in this weekend. Stoked on how the bike came out!
> 
> Specs:
> 
> ...


I'm really, really interested in how that 140 mm fork works for you. I thought it would be appropriate for Austin trails, but I was worried about pedal strikes. I get plenty at ~32% sag and 170 mm cranks.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I'm really, really interested in how that 140 mm fork works for you. I thought it would be appropriate for Austin trails, but I was worried about pedal strikes. I get plenty at ~32% sag and 170 mm cranks.


Truth. 140 is just a bit too short unless all the pedally bits are smooth. If I can get a Dread, I'll take the Druid to 150/130 for all-purpose duties.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Truth. 140 is just a bit too short unless all the pedally bits are smooth. If I can get a Dread, I'll take the Druid to 150/130 for all-purpose duties.


There are plenty of flat pedaling sections, but our climbs are chunky and tech. Coming from a 160 mm fork, the 150 definitely helps me navigate the weird stuff and keeps my front end weighted. Might be even better at 140.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Got the build (mostly) finished today. Still chasing some druid/eagle shifting issues leaving me missing my 11spd, but got it close enough to get a few miles in this weekend. Stoked on how the bike came out!
> 
> Specs:
> 
> ...


Awesome job. Now to get your drivetrain sorted...

Looking forward to some ride reports once this work of industrial art sees some proper dirt.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Are you sure it's the spokes?
> I had some nasty clicking on my XX1 cassette, which I thought was the axle or spokes, but turned out to be the cassette creaking. I started greasing the crap out of XD cassettes and haven't had the problem since. They have a false torque problem that's pretty common:
> 
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/u/nate-at-bikeco-com/blog/xx1-cassette-install--creak-check.html


It's clearly spoke noise. Exactly like this guy's, only 10x more obnoxious...

Listen to the clip in post #66 in this thread:









Spoke noises under load?


I sense from your question that spoke fatigue/end of life is a remote possibility… Sorry for slow response -- didn't get the notifications that this had been updated. Wasn't so much thinking end of life as wear at the spoke crosses. The amount you've ridden them surely makes this a...




www.mtbr.com





If someone can post my clip, happy to send it to you by email. Or tell me how I can post it and I will.

Off for a blast with my daughter, my new Bontrager Rapid Pack Hydro, and my NOISY wheels. With all the spoke racket, at least the bears should be held at bay. This is from Tuesday. We are riding the exact same trail and area today (plus Kestrel). Built in bear bells&#8230;


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

It was a beautiful fall day out. I stopped to chat with numerous people. There was no trail side tough love with my daughter. Things were peaceful. My karma improved. And so did my wheel. Inexplicably, it was noise free.

My Druid was stellar today. I had a blast. Dead silent on very fast terrain.

I have bigger rides planned for tomorrow and Monday. Fingers crossed...


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It's clearly spoke noise. Exactly like this guy's, only 10x more obnoxious...
> 
> Listen to the clip in post #66 in this thread:
> 
> ...


That's insane. I've had that noise before, but only with broken spokes pinging around (my Enve M70 with CX-Rays did that a couple years ago until I rebuilt it, but I was also breaking spokes every couple rides, so there was no question as to the cause).

I wonder if stiffer wheels (Carbon rims) cause more spoke fatigue?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

armyofevilrobots said:


> That's insane. I've had that noise before, but only with broken spokes pinging around (my Enve M70 with CX-Rays did that a couple years ago until I rebuilt it, but I was also breaking spokes every couple rides, so there was no question as to the cause).
> 
> I wonder if stiffer wheels (Carbon rims) cause more spoke fatigue?


Mine were 10x louder.

It's not all doom and gloom though. This arrived. Fully rebuilt wheelset from We Are One. The box literally feels empty. Stoked to get these rolling soon.








Can't say enough good about We Are One. They treat their customers VERY well.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Mine were 10x louder.
> 
> It's not all doom and gloom though. This arrived. Fully rebuilt wheelset from We Are One. The box literally feels empty. Stoked to get these rolling soon.
> 
> Can't say enough good about We Are One. They treat their customers VERY well.


Strong agree. My unions are the best wheels I've ever owned. Can't recommend them enough.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I'm really, really interested in how that 140 mm fork works for you. I thought it would be appropriate for Austin trails, but I was worried about pedal strikes. I get plenty at ~32% sag and 170 mm cranks.





pinkrobe said:


> Truth. 140 is just a bit too short unless all the pedally bits are smooth. If I can get a Dread, I'll take the Druid to 150/130 for all-purpose duties.





RadicalPugilism said:


> There are plenty of flat pedaling sections, but our climbs are chunky and tech. Coming from a 160 mm fork, the 150 definitely helps me navigate the weird stuff and keeps my front end weighted. Might be even better at 140.


Strikes will be strikes. Timing makes more difference than a few mm so I'll give the 140 a try. Might suck, might not.

My current BB height on the Druid is 13", which is exactly what my previous 2018 Kona Hei Hei was with the same 2* headset, 175mm cranks and I was completely fine. I also have a 180mm high pivot with 13.8" BB and 165mm cranks if i feel the druid is too pedestrian. For me, I'd rather be low in the bike than pogoing around.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Awesome job. Now to get your drivetrain sorted...
> 
> Looking forward to some ride reports once this work of industrial art sees some proper dirt.


Thanks man!!

Dude, I pretty much gave up on the eagle with the Druid and going XTR 12spd shifter and derailleur. I'm probably missing something, but I could not get past the derailleur interference issue in the 10t. Was back N forth with forbidden (who were great to deal with) and spent a day trying various B screw settings, chain lengths and measurements to no avail. I don't think this is a Druid issue or an Eagle issue, but combined, it's an issue. The rearward axle path causes chain growth as the suspension compresses and results in the derailleur cage rotating into the cable guide, pushing the cage inboard towards the 12T. This only occurs on HSP bikes with larger rearward paths. If i set B screw according to Forbiddens video its fine on the stand but has slow/no shifting at sag into the 10t. If i get the chain length and B screw it where it'll work at sag, It drives the cage inboard at 60% compression and full stuff. That's an issue if i'm stomping the bike in the 10t and hit a compression. I bought this frame used and clearly, the PO was having some shifting issues. Not pissed at all about this and don't think it's anyone's fault. Stuff like this just happens when I'm trying something new and I'm used to it. Tore a M8000XT derailleur off my SX because of HSP chain growth and too short of a cage. A long cage M8100 fixed that problem and I'll just do the 9100 on the druid.

P.S. I'm a diehard sram guy (except for brakes) and would rather have their drivetrain. Lastly, I'd also like to say 12spd is just dumb.

Rant/off


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

ATXZJ said:


> Thanks man!!
> 
> Dude, I pretty much gave up on the eagle with the Druid and going XTR 12spd shifter and derailleur.
> 
> ...


With Shimano, set up chain length to Shimano's spec with the rear end fully compressed. It's the only way to get proper shifting, and you won't tear off a derailleur. I'm running a 10-45 cassette with a medium cage, and it shifts amazingly well.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

dubthang said:


> With Shimano, set up chain length to Shimano's spec with the rear end fully compressed. It's the only way to get proper shifting, and you won't tear off a derailleur. I'm running a 10-45 cassette with a medium cage, and it shifts amazingly well.


Glad to hear its working for you and thanks for the info. I was new to high pivots in 2019 and ripped the older M8000 style XT derailleur off my Supreme SX because I didn't allow enough chain for axle path. It was too much chain in the 11t at zero sag and was eating itself at 70% compression in the 46t. Was out of state at the bike park so I just tossed the derailleur and rode chainless for the rest of the day lol. It now has an 11-50 with the 8100 long cage and works great.

Ordered the XTR derailleur for the druid and going to run it with the Eagle 10-50 cassette, chain and chainring.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I have things sorted with my wheel noise. YAHOO! The Agents did not disappoint today. I will get the Insiders (in the box) mounted ASAP. I assume it was my karma, as I suspected.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Question for the Cascade Link folks...where did you start with shock setup?

More pressure? Less? Same dampening as stock? Same volume spacers? Etc.?

I've left it the same and I'm getting less sag on this link then with the stock link which makes me believe I need less pressure...but based on this thread that seems to be backwards of what you have experienced?

Any suggestions?

Second question - can I run a 2021 Fox36 with a 160mm airspring in it? I can't seem to find the axle to crown lengths...?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

You definitely should need more pressure as there’s quite a bit more leverage on the shock at the beginning. I needed about 30 psi more, so something is wrong with how you measured sag. You may need to increase rebound with increased pressure.

You should also be able to run a 160 Fox 36 with A2C 571 (found on Fox site), same as max for Druid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

I'll have to try it again...I did it super quick in the garage as it was getting dark. 

I ws running 35% sag with the stock link - 19mm @ the shock. Seems like Cascade suggests less...32-ish% with 18mm at the shock...?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Where are these pics taken? Pretty place!



mtnbkrmike said:


> I have things sorted with my wheel noise. YAHOO! The Agents did not disappoint today. I will get the Insiders (in the box) mounted ASAP. I assume it was my karma, as I suspected.
> View attachment 1948941
> View attachment 1948942
> View attachment 1948943
> ...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Nurse Ben said:


> Where are these pics taken? Pretty place!


Jumpingpound Ridge. Calgary Alberta Canada.

There is so much incredible riding out here. I have at least 7 different totally awesome riding areas, all with their own unique extensive network of trails, within 1.5 hours of my driveway. This beauty (Prairieview/Jewell) is 45 minutes from my driveway (literally):










Hitting that Saturday.

Plus Fernie, Golden and Revelstoke, all easily within striking distance for a day trip.

Very very fortunate.

Come on out. Happy to be your trail guide and buy you a beer or beverage of your choice, post rides.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

ATXZJ said:


> Glad to hear its working for you and thanks for the info. I was new to high pivots in 2019 and ripped the older M8000 style XT derailleur off my Supreme SX because I didn't allow enough chain for axle path. It was too much chain in the 11t at zero sag and was eating itself at 70% compression in the 46t. Was out of state at the bike park so I just tossed the derailleur and rode chainless for the rest of the day lol. It now has an 11-50 with the 8100 long cage and works great.
> 
> Ordered the XTR derailleur for the druid and going to run it with the Eagle 10-50 cassette, chain and chainring.


Thats what I run with Oval.


----------



## hothb (May 20, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> You definitely should need more pressure as there's quite a bit more leverage on the shock at the beginning. I needed about 30 psi more, so something is wrong with how you measured sag. You may need to increase rebound with increased pressure.
> 
> You should also be able to run a 160 Fox 36 with A2C 571 (found on Fox site), same as max for Druid.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


lol...so yea I was measuring wrong in a buzzed haze. HAd to bump it up...will give it a go at 18mm sag at the shock.


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## Milo902 (Dec 4, 2011)

In case anyone in this group is looking, just put my medium Druid SLX up for sale (https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3163772/). Located in Central VA. Awesome bike, but a bit too big for me and we didn't quite gel so it's time for a new owner.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

So update on the Cascade Link with Float X2...well I actually like the bike finally. Literally have been wanting to sell this thing since the first ride until last night. 

The mid-stroke support on the Cascade link really changes the game and makes the bike much better. Could be the X2 is just not the right shock for this thing and this is making it finally rideable but thought I'd share.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

hothb said:


> So update on the Cascade Link with Float X2...well I actually like the bike finally. Literally have been wanting to sell this thing since the first ride until last night.
> 
> The mid-stroke support on the Cascade link really changes the game and makes the bike much better. Could be the X2 is just not the right shock for this thing and this is making it finally rideable but thought I'd share.


I felt exactly the same when I swapped to the Cascade Link. I'm running a DHX2 with it but it feels so much better for the way I ride and where I ride. It now really feels bottomless, so much better of a bike than my Ripmo ever was.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Got a 160mm airspring on order - Forbidden confirmed its fine to use on a 2021 Fox 36...will be curious to see how the bike works then.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

hothb said:


> Got a 160mm airspring on order - Forbidden confirmed its fine to use on a 2021 Fox 36...will be curious to see how the bike works then.


I've got a 160 2021 Fox 36 and a -.5ish angleset. It works so well. With the taller fork and angleset you end up around 64.5 degrees for the head angle, I think it's a sweet spot for a bike like this. While the front end is pushed out a little further, the slight decrease in reach and overall conservative geo (compared to recent standards) puts you really centered on the bike so you can still get the right amount of weight over the front without the need to think about it. 160 matches the cascade link really well and this thing shreds hard. I'm coming back from a horrible shoulder injury earlier this year and on this bike I was easily back up to speed in a week, even setting new PR's without realizing it. It's fast, feels smooth and is confidence inspiring.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

PisgahGnar said:


> I've got a 160 2021 Fox 36 and a -.5ish angleset. It works so well. With the taller fork and angleset you end up around 64.5 degrees for the head angle, I think it's a sweet spot for a bike like this. While the front end is pushed out a little further, the slight decrease in reach and overall conservative geo (compared to recent standards) puts you really centered on the bike so you can still get the right amount of weight over the front without the need to think about it. 160 matches the cascade link really well and this thing shreds hard. I'm coming back from a horrible shoulder injury earlier this year and on this bike I was easily back up to speed in a week, even setting new PR's without realizing it. It's fast, feels smooth and is confidence inspiring.


That's awesome to hear!

I did a -2* works headset and 40mm offset 140mm fork in mine, ending up at 64*. Went with a little longer 43mm stem to make up for the reduction in TTL from the headset. Bike feels like it's going to be a really, really good all rounder. Stoked.


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## vanislemtbr (Jul 28, 2020)

hothb said:


> Got a 160mm airspring on order - Forbidden confirmed its fine to use on a 2021 Fox 36...will be curious to see how the bike works then.


Did this 6 months ago and have zero regrets. Lowered the stem by 10mm with the change initially and then raised 5mm. Was worried it wouldn't climb as well but it's still awesome. This bike changed what is possible for my ascending and now I enjoy the tech up more than ever.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Curious if anybody is running a 3rd party axle on their Druid frame? My OE axle is worse for wear and in need of replacement. Forbidden is out of stock on these and I’m also curious if another brand will have the same backing out issue that I can’t seem to resolve with the stock unit. 

I believe that the wolf tooth axle has 17mm of thread whereas the stock axle has 20mm. Robert axle project doesn’t state threaded length 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

incubus said:


> Curious if anybody is running a 3rd party axle on their Druid frame? My OE axle is worse for wear and in need of replacement. Forbidden is out of stock on these and I'm also curious if another brand will have the same backing out issue that I can't seem to resolve with the stock unit.
> 
> I believe that the wolf tooth axle has 17mm of thread whereas the stock axle has 20mm. Robert axle project doesn't state threaded length
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm using the one up axle. I never even installed the original on my frame based on all of the bad reports like yours and other people experiencing axles breaking. No issues so far.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

incubus said:


> Curious if anybody is running a 3rd party axle on their Druid frame? My OE axle is worse for wear and in need of replacement. Forbidden is out of stock on these and I'm also curious if another brand will have the same backing out issue that I can't seem to resolve with the stock unit.
> 
> I believe that the wolf tooth axle has 17mm of thread whereas the stock axle has 20mm. Robert axle project doesn't state threaded length
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got a burgtec one and it's great. My original didn't last long and kept needed torquing up every other ride.
Not touched the Burgtec one since I fitted it!


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I just installed a Rockshox Maxle stealth on mine. I used lock-tite on mine and didn't have issues with it backing out. I am over 200lbs and seeing the reports of people having them break is why I replaced mine. I'll save the original for a spare.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Jumpingpound Ridge. Calgary Alberta Canada.
> 
> There is so much incredible riding out here. I have at least 7 different totally awesome riding areas, all with their own unique extensive network of trails, within 1.5 hours of my driveway. This beauty (Prairieview/Jewell) is 45 minutes from my driveway (literally):
> 
> ...


Oh, it's in Canada, that figures ?

We used to live up that way, Wenatchee WA, just loved the summer, but couldn't handle the cold, dark winters.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

PisgahGnar said:


> I've got a 160 2021 Fox 36 and a -.5ish angleset. It works so well. With the taller fork and angleset you end up around 64.5 degrees for the head angle, I think it's a sweet spot for a bike like this. While the front end is pushed out a little further, the slight decrease in reach and overall conservative geo (compared to recent standards) puts you really centered on the bike so you can still get the right amount of weight over the front without the need to think about it. 160 matches the cascade link really well and this thing shreds hard. I'm coming back from a horrible shoulder injury earlier this year and on this bike I was easily back up to speed in a week, even setting new PR's without realizing it. It's fast, feels smooth and is confidence inspiring.


What headset are you using?

I'm still using a 50mm stem on this thing given the conservative reach; some think its crazy but I've not noticed anything negative doing that...even at 150/142 this thing is railing...I mean seriously the bike actually feels good and like there is something pushing back when I push into the travel.

Air spring is here, I'm going to pop it in this week.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Nurse Ben said:


> Oh, it's in Canada, that figures ?
> 
> We used to live up that way, Wenatchee WA, just loved the summer, but couldn't handle the cold, dark winters.


I'm just going to leave this here Ben. This was yesterday&#8230;


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

hothb said:


> What headset are you using?
> 
> I'm still using a 50mm stem on this thing given the conservative reach; some think its crazy but I've not noticed anything negative doing that...even at 150/142 this thing is railing...I mean seriously the bike actually feels good and like there is something pushing back when I push into the travel.
> 
> Air spring is here, I'm going to pop it in this week.


I am using the wolftooth geoshift, but the one designed for short headtubes even though the Druid is 120. Thats why I say -.5ish, because actually I do not know, but I guess it could be calculated if necessary. In my calculations of the geo I assume it is roughly -.7 since the geoshift goes up to 114 headtubes, not too far off from the 120 which the Druid has. I did not want to go with a full degree considering I was already slacking it out with the taller fork, I just wanted something to get it a littler slacker while offsetting the BB and stack changes. I use a 40mm stem. I'm 5'10" with normalish proportions, feels great.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Looks like its out of stock till the end of time.

Will go with the 160 fork for now see how she goes.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

_HENDO_ said:


> Got a burgtec one and it's great. My original didn't last long and kept needed torquing up every other ride.
> Not touched the Burgtec one since I fitted it!


Oddly enough, sometime between my posting my axle question and yesterday, forbidden have removed their axle from their parts page and added a burgtec unit. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mattwbr (Sep 29, 2021)

Hi! I built up a L Druid (Ziggy mullet) recently and have been riding it in the Front Range (CO). I am having some trouble getting the suspension dialed in and am wondering if you all have some recommendations. I spent a few hours going through this thread and found other riders with the same issue (quoted below). I have a 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 160 and Push 11-6 with 425lb spring. I think the rear shock feels pretty good but still have two issues:

In chunky terrain with large rocks (e.g. Dakota Ridge) with smallish drops, it can be hard to keep speed and the front wheel seems to get “stuck” on rocks/at the bottom of drops, the fork compresses and I pitch forward (went OTB yesterday for the first time ever) – almost like I’m doing an endo/stoppie. If I have some speed I can just pop the front and it's not an issue.
When riding uphill, the bike gets stuck on these same kind of rocks. It doesn't roll up an over but rather stops, compresses fork and the rebound throws off balance. I also find it wanders side to side a lot - even more than my GG Smash which I think is slacker.
I also seem to have a lot more pedal strikes than my old bike but that's probably poor technique from being uncomfortable on the bike. Or getting used to a 27.5" wheel out back.
I am 175lb with gear with the following settings. I’m also 5’9” which is probably a little small for the L but that’s what I have.

Push (recommended by them)
LSC – 18 clicks from closed
HSC – 18 clicks from closed
Rebound – 12 clicks from closed
Minimal preload (1 turn)

Fox 36 Grip2 160
88psi
HSC – 5 clicks from closed (out of 10)
LSC – 10 clicks from closed (out of 10)
LSR – 6 clicks from closed (out of 9)
HSR – 4 clicks from closed (out of 9)

First thing that I am thinking of is to increase fork LSC damping and maybe add some air to stay higher in travel. However, most users on here seem to recommend much lower PSI. I haven't changed the volume spacers (I think it comes with 1).

What do you guys think? Anyone with similar weight/equipment able to report settings that work well for them?



Iamblichus said:


> here is how i would describe it: you know when your front wheel bumps into a rock or something and the rock is too big for your speed? so you kinda do a mini endo as your bike's rear end kicks up? that's kinda what it feels like all the time.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

I like suggesting Norco's ride align for getting baseline fork settings. Using a bike with the same fork as yours, they suggest a range 79-84 psi. I provided a link if you wanted to play around:





Enter Your Info - Bike Setup Guide | Norco







www.norco.com


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

hothb said:


> Got a 160mm airspring on order - Forbidden confirmed its fine to use on a 2021 Fox 36...will be curious to see how the bike works then.


-1° Wolftooth Geoshift is the ticket, whether you're riding 150 or 160mm. 

I initially ran 160 and then went down to 150. 

Think the 160 was better. Just too lazy to swap the other spring back in. 

Recommend getting the angleset to help your geo. 

I have a works components that was installed, but never used that I could sell you. Just need the bottom bearing. I accidentally toasted it when I removed it. Ordered the GeoShift and Works Angleset at the same time.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mattwbr said:


> Hi! I build up a L Druid (Ziggy mullet) recently and have been riding it in the Front Range (CO). I am having some trouble getting the suspension dialed in and am wondering if you all have some recommendations. I spent a few hours going through this thread and found other riders with the same issue (quoted below). I have a 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 160 and Push 11-6 with 425lb spring. I think the rear shock feels pretty good but still have two issues:
> 
> In chunky terrain with large rocks (e.g. Dakota Ridge) with smallish drops, it can be hard to keep speed and the front wheel seems to get “stuck” on rocks/at the bottom of drops, the fork compresses and I pitch forward (went OTB yesterday for the first time ever) – almost like I’m doing an endo/stoppie. If I have some speed I can just pop the front and it's not an issue.
> When riding uphill, the bike gets stuck on these same kind of rocks. It doesn't roll up an over but rather stops, compresses fork and the rebound throws off balance. I also find it wanders side to side a lot - even more than my GG Smash which I think is slacker.
> ...


Have you had the fork serviced? 

I have your fork without the Kashima and in a 150 configuration. I also weigh similar to you. My fork settings are the following: 

LSR: 6
HSR: 8
HSC: 4
LSC: 4
73 PSI

I also have the same problem with diving but I've never flipped OTB. I've been told that the 2020 Fox 36 grip2 has lousy midstroke support and the only thing you can really do is run higher pressure or insert more volume spacers. 

I mostly ride on Vancouver's North Shore.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

mattwbr said:


> Hi! I build up a L Druid (Ziggy mullet) recently and have been riding it in the Front Range (CO). I am having some trouble getting the suspension dialed in and am wondering if you all have some recommendations. I spent a few hours going through this thread and found other riders with the same issue (quoted below). I have a 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 160 and Push 11-6 with 425lb spring. I think the rear shock feels pretty good but still have two issues:
> 
> In chunky terrain with large rocks (e.g. Dakota Ridge) with smallish drops, it can be hard to keep speed and the front wheel seems to get “stuck” on rocks/at the bottom of drops, the fork compresses and I pitch forward (went OTB yesterday for the first time ever) – almost like I’m doing an endo/stoppie. If I have some speed I can just pop the front and it's not an issue.
> When riding uphill, the bike gets stuck on these same kind of rocks. It doesn't roll up an over but rather stops, compresses fork and the rebound throws off balance. I also find it wanders side to side a lot - even more than my GG Smash which I think is slacker.
> ...


I am 185 plus gear running a 2018 150 GRIP2 36 with Luftkappe, and a last gen 11-6 with a 425 spring.

I am slammed with work right now and trying to sneak out at noon tomorrow for a blast. I will revise this post with all my settings (fork and shock) as soon as I have a minute.

I don’t experience the issues you are describing, so stay hopeful. My fork is absolutely dialled, to the point that I don’t want to risk screwing things up with a Smashpot. I do tinker with my compression settings, depending on the steepness of the downs I am on. I will include those settings too. My PSI is lower than yours. 

Not saying they are optimal and in fact, I may just end up PMing you to avoid the risk of having someone say I have my head up my a$$ or I must ride like a puss. I’m feelin good these days about my riding. I don’t need anyone $hitting all over my delusions of grandeur 😝

PS - I service my 11-6 and 36 annually. I probably should do it twice annually given the mileage I am able to amass.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mattwbr said:


> Hi! I build up a L Druid (Ziggy mullet) recently and have been riding it in the Front Range (CO). I am having some trouble getting the suspension dialed in and am wondering if you all have some recommendations. I spent a few hours going through this thread and found other riders with the same issue (quoted below). I have a 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 160 and Push 11-6 with 425lb spring. I think the rear shock feels pretty good but still have two issues:
> 
> In chunky terrain with large rocks (e.g. Dakota Ridge) with smallish drops, it can be hard to keep speed and the front wheel seems to get “stuck” on rocks/at the bottom of drops, the fork compresses and I pitch forward (went OTB yesterday for the first time ever) – almost like I’m doing an endo/stoppie. If I have some speed I can just pop the front and it's not an issue.
> When riding uphill, the bike gets stuck on these same kind of rocks. It doesn't roll up an over but rather stops, compresses fork and the rebound throws off balance. I also find it wanders side to side a lot - even more than my GG Smash which I think is slacker.
> ...


Hi, nice bike I own the same color.
Are you 5'9 running a slammed 170mm dropper or 150mm?

The chainstays are quite long on your bike if you are on the low end of the size. They will grow beyond 445 in compression over rock while you reach stays 460 with a somewhat tall stack. You may be centered in a stable way that makes manipulating it in tech climbs more challenge. The elongating rear with longer chainstays encourages forward weight shift at the exact time your trying to unweightin steep climb the front up and over the rock while climbing.

I am 5'8 with a Medium druid and I run a reach adjust headcup to give me likely 450r reach with 27.5 rear wheel. I find it less cumbersome to get the front up in med, but the bike still likes plowing more than anything.

Try using less volume spacers and run a more linear airspring for the fork. If the Fox 36 doesn't feel right with less spacers and more air, you can add a secus and get both. You also can add bit low speed compression too, you want some compression support and not have the airspring do all the work.
A more linear fork will help with pedal strikes too, you've already maxed travel to get your front hands up, but perhaps your fork is riding low. You also could try speeding up rebound so your not packing down.
Try a bit more air, less spacer, a touch lsc and a bit faster rebound. Tinker after you get a new baseline if it is closer to the ballpark.

Pedal strikes are easier to get on this bike on technical climbs in mullet cus a few factors: the front harder lift with elongating chainstay, the sag is recommended <33%+ which drops dynamic BB, and mullet drops the BB like 6mm or something drom 340mm on stock 29 which is more reasonable clearance for tech climbs. You can use a front eyelet offset bushing to raise BB a bit, I used to do that before the ziggy+cascade link. These two together can't run the offset front eyelet.


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

...


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

mattwbr said:


> Hi! I build up a L Druid (Ziggy mullet) recently and have been riding it in the Front Range (CO). I am having some trouble getting the suspension dialed in and am wondering if you all have some recommendations. I spent a few hours going through this thread and found other riders with the same issue (quoted below). I have a 2021 Fox 36 Grip2 160 and Push 11-6 with 425lb spring. I think the rear shock feels pretty good but still have two issues:
> 
> In chunky terrain with large rocks (e.g. Dakota Ridge) with smallish drops, it can be hard to keep speed and the front wheel seems to get “stuck” on rocks/at the bottom of drops, the fork compresses and I pitch forward (went OTB yesterday for the first time ever) – almost like I’m doing an endo/stoppie. If I have some speed I can just pop the front and it's not an issue.
> When riding uphill, the bike gets stuck on these same kind of rocks. It doesn't roll up an over but rather stops, compresses fork and the rebound throws off balance. I also find it wanders side to side a lot - even more than my GG Smash which I think is slacker.
> ...


hmm...perhaps you're riding too high in the back...what is your sag at the rear shock? Seems like 425 might be too heavy...FWIW I have the same fork and ride 90psi and weigh 185lbs...


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

shapethings said:


> -1° Wolftooth Geoshift is the ticket, whether you're riding 150 or 160mm.
> 
> I initially ran 160 and then went down to 150.
> 
> ...


Do I want to Long or Short wolftooth deal?






Wolf Tooth ZS44/ZS56 GeoShift Performance Angle Headset | Jenson USA







www.jensonusa.com


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> hmm...perhaps you're riding too high in the back...what is your sag at the rear shock? Seems like 425 might be too heavy...FWIW I have the same fork and ride 90psi and weigh 185lbs...


I have an 11-6. I’m 185. I started with a 450 which the shock came with. It was firm. Too firm for me. I moved to a 425 which has been much better. If @mattwbr is 175, I would think that 425 should be about right. I’m not a hard charging, sender, hucking kinda rider, and I don’t think I would go any lighter than a 425. I kept the 450 in case I ever get invited to Rampage 😝


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## mattwbr (Sep 29, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am 185 plus gear running a 2018 150 GRIP2 36 with Luftkappe, and a last gen 11-6 with a 425 spring.
> 
> I am slammed with work right now and trying to sneak out at noon tomorrow for a blast. I will revise this post with all my settings (fork and shock) as soon as I have a minute.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I have seen your posts in here which prompted me to post the question! Looking forward to it, in the thread or PM sounds good.


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## mattwbr (Sep 29, 2021)

erdawe said:


> Hi, nice bike I own the same color.
> Are you 5'9 running a slammed 170mm dropper or 150mm?
> 
> The chainstays are quite long on your bike if you are on the low end of the size. They will grow beyond 445 in compression over rock while you reach stays 460 with a somewhat tall stack. You may be centered in a stable way that makes manipulating it in tech climbs more challenge. The elongating rear with longer chainstays encourages forward weight shift at the exact time your trying to unweightin steep climb the front up and over the rock while climbing.
> ...


I am running a Oneup 150mm dropper with shim. Really interesting feedback I never thought of how the growing chain stay would affect climbing. Probably should have gotten a M but was at the mercy of what was available! I am going to focus on the LSC I think I had it quite far out. Will also check out the eyelet and it seems people are recommending a -1 angle set too. 

Does the cascade link raise the BB at all? That looks like an interesting addition. Will see if I can get the shock settings and my technique down first before buying tons more parts


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

mattwbr said:


> I am running a Oneup 150mm dropper with shim. Really interesting feedback I never thought of how the growing chain stay would affect climbing. Probably should have gotten a M but was at the mercy of what was available! I am going to focus on the LSC I think I had it quite far out. Will also check out the eyelet and it seems people are recommending a -1 angle set too.
> 
> Does the cascade link raise the BB at all? That looks like an interesting addition. Will see if I can get the shock settings and my technique down first before buying tons more parts


You shouldn’t be striking pedals. I climb in super chunk at times with 175 cranks and my 11-6 in the down mode to keep my wheel glued to the ground. No issues with pedal strikes. The Ziggy only drops the BB 6 mm.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

mattwbr said:


> I am running a Oneup 150mm dropper with shim. Really interesting feedback I never thought of how the growing chain stay would affect climbing. Probably should have gotten a M but was at the mercy of what was available! I am going to focus on the LSC I think I had it quite far out. Will also check out the eyelet and it seems people are recommending a -1 angle set too.
> 
> Does the cascade link raise the BB at all? That looks like an interesting addition. Will see if I can get the shock settings and my technique down first before buying tons more parts


Cascade increases the mid stroke support so in theory the bike will sit higher when pedaling. I do notice this but not much.

I went to 170 cranks - Owen Pemberton the founder of Forbidden runs 165 cranks on his Druid FWIW...


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

Cascade doesn't raise or effect BB from their statements.
Less sag and coiled linear setup will raise effective BB height around sag while pedaling, over a progressive setup, but this type of setup isn't recommended by manufacturer and it will feel possibly more firm than most riders want.
I have a Ziggy link and by the time you get sag corrected with coil, the BB doesn't feel like there is that much BB clearance than prior.

One can also run a Cane Creek IL coil with bar mount adjustable climbswitch and get a firmer platform for climbing easy.

I think the front eyelet offset bushing and shorter cranks are the least compromise towards raising BB now that the fork is maxxed out at 160.
A -1 headset will reduce headangle if that's what you want, but will drop BB down by another milimeter or two.

There's no one right directions, just options.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

hothb said:


> Do I want to Long or Short wolftooth deal?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I got the long which covers 115-140mm length head tubes— the L Druid has a 120mm head tube.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

hothb said:


> Do I want to Long or Short wolftooth deal?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Either works, depends if you want a full degree or a little less. I went with the short, I didn't want to mess with the geo too much since I was going 160 as well.


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## mattwbr (Sep 29, 2021)

Ok well after all this work and trying to get the settings dialed I have found the culprit of my fork issues. I was trying some lower pressures (75 psi) and thought it was odd that I could bottom out the fork by pushing down on it. On a hunch I grabbed my friend's same model shock pump and checked it...40 psi 🧐. So my RockShox pump is just broken 

Glad to have all the help and feel much more educated on rebound and compression settings! Thanks


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

lol. Glad you figured it out man!


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

OK, having a day here. First my new NSB stainless idler cracked, and I had to put the old worn out one back on (glad I kept the old parts, phew).

So then, I went for a ride, and was having one of those magical "can do no wrong" kinda rides, when all of a sudden, coming around a flat drifty corner, the rear end starts chattering and gets all vague feeling. Stop the bike, and feel the dreaded loose rear wheel, which won't tighten up. After a long walk out and having my wife drive to pick me up at the trailhead, I find that:

The rear axle is busted (as expected), but at the FIRST thread.
The rear axle is bottomed in the frame on the non-drive side, and hasn't backed out afaict.
The break is flush with the inside edge of the dropout. It's clearly sheared off at the first thread (or very nearly the first).
The rest of the threads are still torqued firmly into the drive side dropout, and wont' come out (unless I use an easy-out, which I am not gonna do until I get some feedback from Forbidden). 
I had thought maybe it had come loose, but it obviously hadn't, judging from the remaining threads being at full depth and torqued firmly into the dropout. Plus, I had just done a pivot service, so I had torqued the axle, along with everything else, with a proper torque wrench.

Has anybody else sheared one of these axles? I am unfortunately at exactly 12 months and 30 days since my purchase date. I see that they've switched to Burgtec axles on their small parts page, and hopefully they have them in stock. I am waffling between buying one of the Burgtecs, or a Robert Axle: Lightning Bolt-on Axle - Rear 12mm x 180 mm x 1.75 Thread - The Robert Axle Project

I've busted plenty of parts in the past, but this is the first time I have ever damaged a thru-axle of any kind. Kinda surprised TBH.


----------



## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

I’d look into the one-up option, they are supposed to be solid (not hollow axle) If Memory serves me correct 
I had a solid axle custom made before anything happened, as I have heard of a few issues, hence they use the burgtec now


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

4vdean said:


> I’d look into the one-up option, they are supposed to be solid (not hollow axle) If Memory serves me correct
> I had a solid axle custom made before anything happened, as I have heard of a few issues, hence they use the burgtec now


Thanks for the heads up! I am a big fan of one-up, and have their seatpost (and pedals on my wife's bike). Unfortunately, I checked, and they are out of stock of the axle that would fit the Druid


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I pre emptively replaced my axle with a Robert axle project. Works great. I haven't had it comes loose, unlike the OEM.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

Had to loctite my rear axle. Came loose on my first or second ride and ended up bending my derailleur before I figured things out. 
I still check the torque often out of paranoia.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

armyofevilrobots said:


> OK, having a day here. First my new NSB stainless idler cracked, and I had to put the old worn out one back on (glad I kept the old parts, phew).


I ordered the stainless idler (had yet to install), but forbidden contacted me saying the first batch had manufacturing defects. Sent me an alloy one until the new stainless comes out.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

shapethings said:


> I ordered the stainless idler (had yet to install), but forbidden contacted me saying the first batch had manufacturing defects. Sent me an alloy one until the new stainless comes out.


Interesting. The guys at the office said "This is officially the first one in the field", as I picked it up, immediately after they received them from NSB. They wouldn't have had time to figure out anything was wrong by that point. I probably only got to walk away with it because I showed up in person (p.s. go ride Cumberland, it's awesome).


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Interesting. The guys at the office said "This is officially the first one in the field", as I picked it up, immediately after they received them from NSB. They wouldn't have had time to figure out anything was wrong by that point. I probably only got to walk away with it because I showed up in person (p.s. go ride Cumberland, it's awesome).


I would contact them, I’m confident they’ll replace it.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

shapethings said:


> I would contact them, I’m confident they’ll replace it.


I did, and they've already reached back out to me to offer a replacement.
Whining about my broken axle aside, I've been really happy with Forbidden's customer service. They've been really responsive.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

In the spirt of breaking up our usual banter, thought I'd share an adventure from the weekend given the new Druid-Nought (cascade + 160 airspring) I love Fall in the Northern Rockies...its so hard to beat and truly my favorite time of year.

I realize this is not some crazy wild adventure (it's literally less than 30 mins from my house), nor is it some insane capture of human potential, but it was a long, hard but sick day..thought you all might enjoy seeing it.

Here we go:

I've been wanting to do a ride around here all summer...Mt. Blackmore. Between the smoke and the number of tourists this year its kinda undoable....but seriously...look at this thing:










6 miles...4K feet of descending...AND you get to peak out in one of the highest peaks in the Gallatin Range which is always a bonus.

So now I start looking at Trailforks, and planning this ride...and I think to myself that in and outs are kinda lame...I mean they are fine, but look at this fucking ride...its going to be hike a bike the whole time more or less.

So I think to myself...maybe I can get 2 rides in 1 that I've wanted to do for some time...so I come up with this route:










Looks chill enough, right? 18 miles or so...5K vert, NBD.

So I set off...the first 3 miles is ONLY a 1500 foot climb which was no big deal...got up there in about an hour and was feeling good - look at that view of Hyalite peak in the distance!:










Now for the first decent...Fox Creek...1.8 miles 1500 feet of down. Holy **** it was a good one...so fast, so wild. I get to the creek bottom, its that beautiful Fall weather, leaves, etc.

This was really the chill part of the ride...all along the creek bottom...2.5 miles, 500 vert of climbing only. I was pretty scared as there have been many bears spotted here recently but I did not see any luckily.

Fast forward ~3 miles of pretty un-eventful stuff through the trees and I get to the real ***** of a climb...South Cottonwood East Brand - 3.8 miles, 2500 feet of climbing...fucking a. Just to give you an idea...it was hike-a-bike a lot of it - no riding up this; hell I put my bike on my shoulders for this part:











So I'm going and going...its not TOO bad...just kinda steep and now the slope mellows about. This is about 1.2 miles in on the 3.8 mile climb:











So this is the moment where I realized that I had about 2 miles to go...and 2000 ft of climbing. lol...see that peak in the background...thats where I'm headed...CRAP. At least its beautiful and I'm in these amazing rolling meadows so chances of bear encounters have gone down drastically which is a huge plus...

I chug along a bit further...this is about 1.5 miles left 1500 ft:










1 mile left 1100 feet to go:










.75 miles...its getting steep now:










.5 mile...700 ish vert left(cool little lake down there I passed on the way up:










Ah fucking finally...made it to the saddle at about 9600 vertical feet above sea level. At this point I was ~4500 feet of gain (almost 2K of descending as well) ONLY gone 10 miles. I was about 4 hours and 8 minutes into the ride now :laugh1:


















So now came a big moment...my legs were not happy with me...but my brain said 'it's only a half mile and 500 vert to the top'...

So here we go...it was really billy-goating at this point:










So off I went...at this point there was little riding uphill and more pushing. The switchbacks were super tight and it was one of those deals where you really did not want to get high-sided as you were going to tumble...

The top...finally made it, and get this - three other homies on bikes. Had not seen anyone since my first peak out 4+ hours ago and here are three dudes that just did the same route I did. I was pretty stoked as apparently they left almost 2 hours before I did!

View to the North:










View to the South - looking down on where I just came up:









Mandatory selfie:









View to the East - if you look close you can see the saddle then the trail going from the right to the left of the image across the fall line:










Ah...now the fun part...all that riding and climbing...here it comes, 6.2 miles 3800 feet of down! 

Holy cow it was amazing. Truly one of the best backcountry descents I've ever had. It was about 24 minutes of non-stop down till I had to climb again 

Wild fucking ride, don't have a video, but the alpine was wild...such crazy tight switchbacks...then once I got into the forrest...STEEP as hell, lots of roots...truly epic. Then a little climb...and another 1.5 miles (ish) to the car...this is kinda the tourist part of it, but given it was already after 6 o'clock I did not see a soul...truly epic.

Back to the parking lot and the car:










Strava profile:









Pic of bike for reference:










The end.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I did, and they've already reached back out to me to offer a replacement.
> Whining about my broken axle aside, I've been really happy with Forbidden's customer service. They've been really responsive.


Happy to say that Forbidden has again gone above and beyond, and I have parts shipping to fix all my problems.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

hothb said:


> In the spirt of breaking up our usual banter, thought I'd share an adventure from the weekend given the new Druid-Nought (cascade + 160 airspring) I love Fall in the Northern Rockies...its so hard to beat and truly my favorite time of year.


What state are you in?


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

ALS650L said:


> What state are you in?


Montana.


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## shapethings (Feb 17, 2014)

@hothb that is truly an epic ride, so jealous you have that in proximity. I have to drive 3+ hours to get anything comparable.

Amazing you did that on a high-pivot bike with an idler, according to pinkbike, it would be nearly impossible.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

shapethings said:


> @hothb …Amazing you did that on a high-pivot bike with an idler, according to pinkbike, it would be nearly impossible.


And deafening. The sound of that idler to Levy is worse than Chinese water torture. Poor delicate flower…


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> And deafening. The sound of that idler to Levy is worse than Chinese water torture. Poor delicate flower…


Seriously. Reading those and other reviews has made skeptical of any bike review. I’ll pretty much ignore them moving forward.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Lol, hate to say it, but gear noises and creaking drive me crazy - maybe it’s the roadie in me…

I just solved a very loud creak emanating from my Jank idler. I removed the bearing, cleaned and replaced it with some green loctite - problem solved.

Now I just need to solve the BB creak, always something with this whip!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

shapethings said:


> @hothb that is truly an epic ride, so jealous you have that in proximity. I have to drive 3+ hours to get anything comparable.
> 
> Amazing you did that on a high-pivot bike with an idler, according to pinkbike, it would be nearly impossible.


Ha! To be fair I pushed A LOT.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Are there any secondhand Druid/Dreadnought owners that have had to reach out to Forbidden when they needed a part replaced or something fixed? I know they offer crash replacements at a discounted price to secondhand owners, but I'm curious how your experience was. So far they've been super helpful with my questions.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Did you guys get this? Anybody planning to attend?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

re: owners ride...
Damn, would have loved to, but doing an art show on the sunshine coast on the same weekend


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

armyofevilrobots said:


> re: owners ride...
> Damn, would have loved to, but doing an art show on the sunshine coast on the same weekend


Do tell! Are these your own creations being exhibited? Are you, by chance, the creator of the incredible work appearing on Forbidden’s shirts?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Do tell! Are these your own creations being exhibited? Are you, by chance, the creator of the incredible work appearing on Forbidden’s shirts?


Heh, no relationship to Forbidden's shirts. It's my wife's art: HelenPlatt.ca
We'll be manning the booth at our house all day Friday->Sunday 22nd->24th.
Details are all at Sunshine Coast Art Crawl - Coast Cultural Alliance (CCA)


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Did you guys get this? Anybody planning to attend?
> View attachment 1951381


I am on the fence with attending, I could use a day off work and have plenty of vacation time banked. On the flip side, still rehabbing a wonky hip.
If I do go I doubt I will survive the whole day but its less then an hour drive and who needs a reason to put some more miles on the Druid.


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## McShred (Oct 4, 2021)

shapethings said:


> Amazing you did that on a high-pivot bike with an idler, according to pinkbike, it would be nearly impossible.





mtnbkrmike said:


> And deafening. The sound of that idler to Levy is worse than Chinese water torture. Poor delicate flower…


Dreadnaught owner here, Ive done many 30+ km, 1000+ meter rides this summer... Had to double my squats & deadlifts and now my hearing is shot, the Pinkbike criticisms are real!!!! 

In all seriousness, the bike is slightly more work to pedal up than my last, but I am more than happy to take it on every ride from long alpine ascents to the bike park. For those who put primary value the ascent there may better options than high pivot, but in my mind the pro's outweigh the cons.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

If anyone is looking for a cheap, lightly used Ziggy Link send me a DM.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

On that note, I'm also selling my Large Purple Druid:



https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3175277/



Please let me know if you're interested.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Has anyone heard if other high pivot bikes are being quite as finicky?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> On that note, I'm also selling my Large Purple Druid:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Interesting. How come?


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> On what note?













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jay_paradox said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have noises with every bike I have right now. It is driving me crazy but it is certainly not just my Druid. In fact, my Druid is the quietest of every bike I own.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

My V1 Pivot Switchblade is pretty damn silent. Had it for several years. A noisy bike would annoy me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have noises with every bike I have right now. It is driving me crazy but it is certainly not just my Druid. In fact, my Druid is the quietest of every bike I own.


Guess I am one of the lucky ones…my Druid has been bomb proof over the last 2 seasons without any creaking from anywhere except for general tiny bit more noise from the idler, which does not bother me. Only thing I had to replace was the idler after the first season primarily due to semi dead rough spinning idler bearing. I love this bike and cannot wait until it has the coil shock in a few weeks for even more suppleness and bit more mid stroke support. I believe it’s been said before, but just to reconfirm, this bike reallly comes fully alive when you as the rider take fully charge of it and the more you push it the better it feels. Riding it timidly does not play to its strength. I hit the deck pretty hard late summer and it took me a good 8 weeks or so to rebuild my confidence. I was riding very reserved with lots of safety margin in first few weeks after that crash and the Druid just didn’t have that same magic riding it in that mode.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

jay_paradox said:


> Has anyone heard if other high pivot bikes are being quite as finicky?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


These bikes seem to be extra annoying.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

jay_paradox said:


> Has anyone heard if other high pivot bikes are being quite as finicky?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In what regard?


hothb said:


> These bikes seem to be extra annoying.


Feel free to send me all finicky and/or annoying bikes for immediate disposal - I won't even charge for the service, I'm just here to help.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

jay_paradox said:


> Has anyone heard if other high pivot bikes are being quite as finicky?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just did 15 miles of tech on my other 38lb 180mm high pivot yesterday because the druid is out of order (wheel related). Of course having an idler whirring away just in earshot of you will be slightly noisy but it's certainly not a dealbreaker for me. They all have their teething issues to work through but once you do, high pivots are great. 

My advice is dont buy one if you cant wrench on it yourself, or have the money to keep in regularly maintained at your LBS.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> In what regard?
> 
> 
> Feel free to send me all finicky and/or annoying bikes for immediate disposal - I won't even charge for the service, I'm just here to help.


lol. I like the bike but as someone noted here...its like having a project car...always something to mess with. Its a 'enthusiasts' bike, someone who want to tinker and wrench. If you want a set it and forget it go with one of the big brands. 

Now that winter is coming...I need to decide if I want a Storia or not for nest year


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> lol. I like the bike but as someone noted here...its like having a project car...always something to mess with. Its a 'enthusiasts' bike, someone who want to tinker and wrench. If you want a set it and forget it go with one of the big brands.
> 
> Now that winter is coming...I need to decide if I want a Storia or not for nest year


I said in a prior post that I have told people on the trail that it’s like owning a semi-exotic vehicle. Or even a fully exotic one. I would not own it as my only bike. But I do love it and don’t plan on dumping it any time soon.

My Druid and my Honzo are a fantastic 1-2 punch. Love them both. I plan to keep and enjoy them for years to come.


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## Shark (Feb 4, 2006)

Dedicated white cubes to store the bikes, nice!

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I said in a prior post that I have told people on the trail that it’s like owning a semi-exotic vehicle. Or even a fully exotic one. I would not own it as my only bike. But I do love it and don’t plan on dumping it any time soon.
> 
> My Druid and my Honzo are a fantastic 1-2 punch. Love them both. I plan to keep and enjoy them for years to come.
> View attachment 1952020
> View attachment 1952021


Ha..yea it was you that said it. Its true. honestly I've not had any major issues its just the small stuff that frankly does not happen with a bigger brand in my experience.

I'm hoping the Sight gets the Range treatment...I like the Norcos but 170/170 is too much for me.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

hothb said:


> lol. I like the bike but as someone noted here...its like having a project car...always something to mess with. Its a 'enthusiasts' bike, someone who want to tinker and wrench. If you want a set it and forget it go with one of the big brands.
> 
> Now that winter is coming...I need to decide if I want a Storia or not for nest year


I suppose I do qualify as an enthusiast. I mean, bikes are awesome - amirite? Every bike has trade-offs, and I'm more than happy to deal with a little noise to get a bike that performs as well as the Druid. I'm not missing my Stumpjumper/Prime/Slash/Ripmo/Darkside/Aurum.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

pinkrobe said:


> I suppose I do qualify as an enthusiast. I mean, bikes are awesome - amirite? Every bike has trade-offs, and I'm more than happy to deal with a little noise to get a bike that performs as well as the Druid. I'm not missing my Stumpjumper/Prime/Slash/Ripmo/Darkside/Aurum.


I haven't really had issues with the Druid itself. I built mine from a frame and used parts from a 2 season old build. That's where most of my issues have stemmed from. I have had some shifting issues with the Druid, but I will fully admit I'm not great at setting up a derailleur, I can get it about 90-95% and it was a bit more finicky with the Druid than others. The only other real issue I've had was a DPX2 that made a ton of noise, which turned out to be insufficient oil from the the Fox factory. I was constantly chasing noises thinking it was linkage etc before I figured out it was the shock. It's since been replaced with a Super Deluxe coil and the bike is running the best it has. The Druid has its quirks but I'm very pleased with it once the DPX2 was gone.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

FWIW, I think I have benefited hugely when I replaced my X01 RD with an AXS RD. The wheelbase growth and kinda funky cable routing on the chain stay for the RD, created continual problems for me. This frame seems to be a very good candidate for a cable free RD. Since going with the AXS, my RD woes disappeared.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> FWIW, I think I have benefited hugely when I replaced my X01 RD with an AXS RD. The wheelbase growth and kinda funky cable routing on the chain stay for the RD, created continual problems for me. This frame seems to be a very good candidate for a cable free RD. Since going with the AXS, my RD woes disappeared.


I agree, that would be nice. I wore the housing off the RD cable just inside where it enters the rear triangle because the housing was allowed to slide back and forth as the suspension compressed and extended, and the guide tubes inside the frame apparently aren't super smooth (on mine). Now I have a zip-tie cable stop on the input to prevent this sliding. Wireless would be much cleaner, but it works.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> FWIW, I think I have benefited hugely when I replaced my X01 RD with an AXS RD. The wheelbase growth and kinda funky cable routing on the chain stay for the RD, created continual problems for me. This frame seems to be a very good candidate for a cable free RD. Since going with the AXS, my RD woes disappeared.


Seems like a very, very narrow margin for error with eagle/druid setup. Gave up and just went Shimano even though I'm a sram guy. Ended up doing the same on the SX. Also don't feel as guilty when I rip off an XT derailleur as the bike goes tumbling down a hill

Next will be experimenting with the billet 9spd wide ratio cassette and shifter from box using an XTR derailleur and 12spd chain.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

ATXZJ said:


> Seems like a very, very narrow margin for error with eagle/druid setup. Gave up and just went Shimano even though I'm a sram guy. Ended up doing the same on the SX. Also don't feel as guilty when I rip off an XT derailleur as the bike goes tumbling down a hill
> 
> Next will be experimenting with the billet 9spd wide ratio cassette and shifter from box using an XTR derailleur and 12spd chain.


Never ran into any issues with shifting housing on my Druid. The only really tricky and finicky shifting setup issue in my experience is B-gap adjustment, whether it be SRAM or Shimano derailleur. Very narrow margin for getting B-gap just right. Using Forbidden’s method in their support video adjusting it in smallest cog works well for me, except b-gap tension needs to be even more loose than indicated in their setup guideline no matter if you use their lower tension guide or not. YMMV, but works very well for me now that I have a good point of reference.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

fizzywater said:


> Never ran into any issues with shifting housing on my Druid. The only really tricky and finicky shifting setup issue in my experience is B-gap adjustment, whether it be SRAM or Shimano derailleur. Very narrow margin for getting B-gap just right. Using Forbidden’s method in their support video adjusting it in smallest cog works well for me, except b-gap tension needs to be even more loose than indicated in their setup guideline no matter if you use their lower tension guide or not. YMMV, but works very well for me now that I have a good point of reference.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The X01 cable guide was making contact with the cage under suspension compression in the 10t. No amount of fiddling with B-gap and chain completely resolved the issue. Shimano doesn't have this guide and worked good on my other high pivot, so i just swapped to XTR. Nothing about this project has been particularly easy or cheap, but thats the way things go sometimes.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Can someone with a float X2 on the Druid let me know the tune id.
Cheers.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Installed the Cascade link yesterday, and got a solid ride in today. The bike felt way better. Much better support while still able to take the small stuff. I'm still on the DPX2 with the stock Forbidden tune also.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Picked up a used 36 Performance Elite with a Push ACS3. It felt really composed and comfortable on our loose, chunky trails. The traction was so nice.



















I did notice the initial travel felt a little sticky on the flat stuff when I was heading back to my truck. I may need to get it serviced.

It’s set at 160 mm and it feels pretty good. I planned on changing the travel but I’m willing to try this out for a bit.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

dubthang said:


> Installed the Cascade link yesterday, and got a solid ride in today. The bike felt way better. Much better support while still able to take the small stuff. I'm still on the DPX2 with the stock Forbidden tune also.


Hell yea. Cascade made the bike better in every way for me as well. Now just need the 160mm in the front


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

alan1 said:


> Can someone with a float X2 on the Druid let me know the tune id.
> Cheers.


I can look tonight. But I just have an aftermarket 'normal' tune...which is not great for this bike honestly. Open on all 4 settings


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

hothb said:


> I can look tonight. But I just have an aftermarket 'normal' tune...which is not great for this bike honestly. Open on all 4 settings


Cheers, I have a x2 from a Ripmo gonna give it a try anyway.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

alan1 said:


> Cheers, I have a x2 from a Ripmo gonna give it a try anyway.


I've been running a Super Deluxe coil with the Ripmo tune. Works quite well, I even have 4-5 clicks of adjustment, towards open, remaining on rebound and compression. With the DPX2 at my weight, around 215lbs, I was running everything almost wide open. I believe the tune for the Ripmo was LL as their traction tune is quite light.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

alan1 said:


> Cheers, I have a x2 from a Ripmo gonna give it a try anyway.


D5PL


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

hothb said:


> D5PL


Thanks,


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

ALS650L said:


> I've been running a Super Deluxe coil with the Ripmo tune. Works quite well, I even have 4-5 clicks of adjustment, towards open, remaining on rebound and compression. With the DPX2 at my weight, around 215lbs, I was running everything almost wide open. I believe the tune for the Ripmo was LL as their traction tune is quite light.


I have been running the DPX2 from my Druid on the Ripmo, works way better than it ever did on the Druid.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Hey everyone, for those who are potentially interested, I finally decided to sell my medium Druid front triangle(with Ride Wrap). It is posted for sale on pinkbike.



https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/3191390/





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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

fizzywater said:


> Hey everyone, for those who are potentially interested, I finally decided to sell my medium Druid front triangle(with Ride Wrap). It is posted for sale on pinkbike.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good to see you’re not jumping ship. Seems to be a fair amount of peeps who got in and out - including at least one in lightning quick fashion.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Good to see you’re not jumping ship. Seems to be a fair amount of peeps who got in and out - including at least one in lightning quick fashion.


Definitely No jumping ship here…I love my Druid!! Should have it coiled (Avalanche tuned Bomber CR) by next week, can’t wait.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Update:

Got the replacement wheel and was able to swap the derailleur & shifter over to XTR. Also removed the tire insert out of the rear wheel as I just didn't think the bike needed it in it's current cofiguration. So far, the shifting is spot on with no issues. I will say it's quite not as sharp as Sram X0+ etc.










Complete w/o pedals











With DMR vault pedals


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

Winter riding conditions have brought a change in tires and a old man mudguard. 2k km's in and still as good as the day she came home.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Update:
> 
> Got the replacement wheel and was able to swap the derailleur & shifter over to XTR. Also removed the tire insert out of the rear wheel as I just didn't think the bike needed it in it's current cofiguration. So far, the shifting is spot on with no issues. I will say it's quite not as sharp as Sram X0+ etc.
> 
> ...


Nice. It took you a bit to get the ball over the goal line, but looks like you finally did! And in very nice fashion.

Very impressive weight too. I haven’t weighed mine for a while but I’m sure I am 33+ with a coil and an Assegai.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Nice. It took you a bit to get the ball over the goal line, but looks like you finally did! And in very nice fashion.
> 
> Very impressive weight too. I haven’t weighed mine for a while but I’m sure I am 33+ with a coil and an Assegai.


Thanks man! It certainly has been a long time coming with this Druid project, but I think it'll be worth the wait. I also think there's still some weight left on the table as far as tires go. The last bike these schwalbes were on gained almost a pound after I swapped them from the maxxis 2.25 griffin/2.5 DHF combo that was on there before. I do like the rolling resistance from the rock razor and the predictability of the Hans Dampf and will probably leave well enough alone. 

The SX will be getting an Assegai up front soon.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Just joined the Forbidden Druid club! I'm extremely stoked about this bike. Haven't been able to do more than a minor test around the block since I'm recovering from a minor surgery, but can't wait to get it out for a proper test.

In the meantime I've been trying to optimize the shifting, and I was wondering if the chain is really supposed to be _resting_ on the stay protector when the bike is in it's hardest gear (10T cog on a Shimano 10-51, 30T chainring). The chain sits like this under compression as well. I've got an XL Druid setup with 130 links - the 132 link recommendation was for a 32T chainring, and with a 30T, 132 links seemed like it was too many after trying it. I'm almost wondering if I could go down to 128 links.

This is what hardest and easiest gears look like right now. Any thoughts or advice appreciated. I adjusted the b-tension as directed on the Forbidden website, but changes to b-tension don't really seem to impact the chain resting on the stay.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Forbidden tech support got back to me very quickly on this. Super helpful and it seems like the chain resting on the rubber is normal and expected:



> Thank you for reaching out! Your chain length seems fine and you have done a great job double checking everything. It's normal for the chain to touch the rubber in the 10T. We increased the thickness of the rubber so it make the rest of the gears quieter on the trails. It will not interfere with shifting and you will see a little groove wear in the first few rides and then it won't wear any further. Let me know if you have any further questions!


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Forbidden tech support got back to me very quickly on this. Super helpful and it seems like the chain resting on the rubber is normal and expected:


Yep. Freaked me out at first, but I haven't had any problems after dialing in that B-tension.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Yup...mine is the same. It rips up the guard sadly but seems to just be one of the quirks of the bike


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

For some reason, the interference on yours seems a bit more extreme than my 10-50 setup.

Seems like a cassette where the 11T is the smallest gear, is best choice for the Druid. I'm not all that okay with the 10t eating the bike.


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## JankyEric (Aug 1, 2021)

Carbon fiber moto foam! Now with increased coverage and carbon fiber bling

https://jankcomponents.com/products...bidden-druid-dreadnought?variant=408325181331


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> In the meantime I've been trying to optimize the shifting, and I was wondering if the chain is really supposed to be _resting_ on the stay protector when the bike is in it's hardest gear (10T cog on a Shimano 10-51, 30T chainring). The chain sits like this under compression as well. I've got an XL Druid setup with 130 links - the 132 link recommendation was for a 32T chainring, and with a 30T, 132 links seemed like it was too many after trying it. I'm almost wondering if I could go down to 128 links.


Follow Shimano's guide for chain length, and don't deviate from that. I listened to Forbidden when I reached out to them, and ended up with not enough chain. If you experience skipping in the 10t cog under torque, you need more chain.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

dubthang said:


> If you experience skipping in the 10t cog under torque, you need more chain.


as in doesnt seem like enough chain wrap around those small cogs? I have a feeling this is where im sitting. I feel like I should back out B tension and bring the chain guide up more to keep more tension on the chain.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

dubthang said:


> Follow Shimano's guide for chain length, and don't deviate from that. I listened to Forbidden when I reached out to them, and ended up with not enough chain. If you experience skipping in the 10t cog under torque, you need more chain.



Most likely Shimano isn't taking into account large amounts of chain _*growth *_under suspension compression. A certain chain length in the big cog may be perfect for your average low pivot bike, but will rip the derailleur off a high pivot bike with a rearward axle path. Usually skipping in 10t is a result of too little chain wrap or misaligned derailleur. 

I have found setting up and sustaining drivetrains in these high pivot bikes can be a real PITA. I've also come to the conclusion that less is more and prefer 11spd as a maximum amount of cogs. My SX just got the Sram EX1 wide ratio 8spd drivetrain because of this. If it works as well as i think it can, the druid might lose 4 cogs too.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just to chime in on the chain growth thing, for this reason, I always try to make sure I am in 4th gear or higher before blasting down an extended descent. Certainly not granny after a long climb. It’s an added hassle but whatever. Part of the charm of owning a semi-exotic bike I suppose.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

ATXZJ said:


> Most likely Shimano isn't taking into account large amounts of chain _*growth *_under suspension compression. A certain chain length in the big cog may be perfect for your average low pivot bike, but will rip the derailleur off a high pivot bike with a rearward axle path. Usually skipping in 10t is a result of too little chain wrap or misaligned derailleur.
> 
> I have found setting up and sustaining drivetrains in these high pivot bikes can be a real PITA. I've also come to the conclusion that less is more and prefer 11spd as a maximum amount of cogs. My SX just got the Sram EX1 wide ratio 8spd drivetrain because of this. If it works as well as i think it can, the druid might lose 4 cogs too.





mtnbkrmike said:


> Just to chime in on the chain growth thing, for this reason, I always try to make sure I am in 4th gear or higher before blasting down an extended descent. Certainly not granny after a long climb. It’s an added hassle but whatever. Part of the charm of owning a semi-exotic bike I suppose.


When measuring out the chain for a Shimano system (and probably the same for Sram), the suspension should be fully compressed first.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Forbidden should pay you guys for all the work you do.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

Nurse Ben said:


> Forbidden should pay you guys for all the work you do.


Agreed...seems like a lot of effort goes into the Druid. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

jay_paradox said:


> Agreed...seems like a lot of effort goes into the Druid.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’ve had to spend a bit more time and money keeping my Druid rolling, relative to my other bikes. But I also ride it a lot more than my other bikes too. So there’s that.

It hasn’t been that bad, and it’s not my only bike. The quirkiness kinda adds to the charm. I don’t mind.

I have ridden it hard and often for 3 full seasons now. I don’t plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. It brings me great joy. It’s been a great partner - maybe a little edgy, difficult and badass at times, but that’s part of what makes it so appealing.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Hello, I was wondering if anyone here was under 6' on a XL? I'm 5'11 on a good day and have been on my L for 18months now and really like it, but with a 800mm bar and 50mm stem it doesn't feel very big. The bike is so capable it just wants to go faster and faster and it feels a bit skittish at speed on rougher trails. My downtube is cracked again and I'm considering asking for a XL front end. I was also looking at throwing in a -1 headset and bumping the fork to 160 which should give it a ~64 HTA and 480 reach which is a little more inline with newer bikes. Thoughts?








Cheers!


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I’ve had to spend a bit more time and money keeping my Druid rolling, relative to my other bikes. But I also ride it a lot more than my other bikes too. So there’s that.
> 
> It hasn’t been that bad, and it’s not my only bike. The quirkiness kinda adds to the charm. I don’t mind.
> 
> I have ridden it hard and often for 3 full seasons now. I don’t plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. It brings me great joy. It’s been a great partner - maybe a little edgy, difficult and badass at times, but that’s part of what makes it so appealing.


Totally get that! Glad you’re enjoying it. That’s all that really matters.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

dhbike8 said:


> Hello, I was wondering if anyone here was under 6' on a XL? I'm 5'11 on a good day and have been on my L for 18months now and really like it, but with a 800mm bar and 50mm stem it doesn't feel very big. The bike is so capable it just wants to go faster and faster and it feels a bit skittish at speed on rougher trails. My downtube is cracked again and I'm considering asking for a XL front end. I was also looking at throwing in a -1 headset and bumping the fork to 160 which should give it a ~64 HTA and 480 reach which is a little more inline with newer bikes. Thoughts?
> View attachment 1956254
> 
> Cheers!


Ummm, get a bike that you won't break?


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

New fender from Forbidden free to all owners. Facebook Groups


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

Nurse Ben said:


> Ummm, get a bike that you won't break?


Well that’s very helpful, thanks! First one was during shipping, but I’ve broken frames from Canfield, Specialized, Santa Cruz, Evil and Cannonade, everything breaks if you ride enthusiasticly enough. 

However I may get one of theses when they’re available: https://www.pinkbike.com/u/seb-stot...s-a-steel-high-virtual-pivot-enduro-bike.html


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

dhbike8 said:


> Hello, I was wondering if anyone here was under 6' on a XL? I'm 5'11 on a good day and have been on my L for 18months now and really like it, but with a 800mm bar and 50mm stem it doesn't feel very big. The bike is so capable it just wants to go faster and faster and it feels a bit skittish at speed on rougher trails. My downtube is cracked again and I'm considering asking for a XL front end. I was also looking at throwing in a -1 headset and bumping the fork to 160 which should give it a ~64 HTA and 480 reach which is a little more inline with newer bikes. Thoughts?
> Cheers!





Dunno how much it helps but i have a 2* works in my L druid but running a 140mm fork. IMHO, if the STL works for you, grab that XL front, a cascade link and put the 2* in it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

alan1 said:


> New fender from Forbidden free to all owners. Facebook Groups


Emailed my dealer. None left. That really pisses me off. So far I have missed out on the NSB SS idlers and now the fenders.

The quirkiness of the bike doesn’t bother me in the slightest. But this $hit does.

Very unimpressed with the roll out of this. Not happy with Forbidden or my dealer.

It’s this kind of stuff that will make me dump the bike. And the bike shop.


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## dhbike8 (Jan 23, 2006)

ATXZJ said:


> Dunno how much it helps but i have a 2* works in my L druid but running a 140mm fork. IMHO, if the STL works for you, grab that XL front, a cascade link and put the 2* in it.


I have long limbs so that's not an issue, does the front feel wandering, less playful? I rode the 1gen sj evo and it was all over the place on climbs, I'm not opposed but do you get used to ~63 on trail bike? I like the current rear feel and was thinking of getting a 8.5x2.5 coil w/ offset bushes vs the new link.








Sent this to flat out of frame, the Lyrik bottmed hard, frame didn't.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Emailed my dealer. None left. That really pisses me off. So far I have missed out on the NSB SS idlers and now the fenders.
> 
> The quirkiness of the bike doesn’t bother me in the slightest. But this $hit does.
> 
> ...


Damn dude chill haha 

Dont we already run solutions for this already? Waiting for the next batch is not a huge deal.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Damn dude chill haha
> 
> Dont we already run solutions for this already? Waiting for the next batch is not a huge deal.


I am treated like royalty by my main LBS. 

I still have my 2007 Ransom LTD. I rode that bike for 7 years straight, as my only bike. The Druid is the only other bike I have owned having the same kind of magic. Maybe it's time to get a 2022 grandchild. Exactly 15 years later. I believe I have access to a Large 900 Tuned AXS through my main LBS. 

Like I said, I had a bad day. I'm tired and bitc#y. That said, I have the luxury of doing exactly what I want to do, which is exactly what I am going to do. I am really unimpressed at the moment - not with my Druid, which I continue to love.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am treated like royalty by my main LBS.
> 
> I still have my 2007 Ransom LTD. I rode that bike for 7 years straight, as my only bike. The Druid is the only other bike I have owned having the same kind of magic. Maybe it's time to get a 2022 grandchild. Exactly 15 years later. I believe I have access to a Large 900 Tuned AXS through my main LBS.
> 
> Like I said, I had a bad day. I'm tired and bitc#y. That said, I have the luxury of doing exactly what I want to do, which is exactly what I am going to do. I am really unimpressed at the moment - not with my Druid, which I continue to love.


I emailed Forbidden directly as soon as I saw the Winter Fender offer on FB, since I bought the frame from them before Inside Line was a dealer. [email protected]


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

pinkrobe said:


> I emailed Forbidden directly as soon as I saw the Winter Fender offer on FB, since I bought the frame from them before Inside Line was a dealer. [email protected]


I thought Forbidden said that the fenders were going to be released to their dealers. I assumed that's where I should go.

As an aside, I too bought my Druid directly from Forbidden. It's from the first production run. It was Dustin Adams' frame (owner of We Are One). He bought it but it hadn't been delivered to him yet. I wanted a large black. They had no more. He gave me his and took a mint green one instead. Jordan at We Are One bought one at the same time.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I had a bad day. Then I ate barbecued pork chops laced with MSG. Bad move. 

Clearly I need a good sleep. 

Yes, I am a little peeved right now. I have been waiting for months for that idler. But that isn't the LBS's fault. As for the fender, yes - I can wait. It would have been nice to get one sooner rather than later. But whatever. And it would have been nice for the dealer to put one aside for me, given that I have been on a wait list for the idler for months now, emailing them every couple of weeks or so for an update. But fine.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I had a bad day. Then I ate barbecued pork chops laced with MSG. Bad move.
> 
> Clearly I need a good sleep.
> 
> Yes, I am a little peeved right now. I have been waiting for months for that idler. But that isn't the LBS's fault. As for the fender, yes - I can wait. It would have been nice to get one sooner rather than later. But whatever. And it would have been nice for the dealer to put one aside for me, given that I have been on a wait list for the idler for months now, emailing them every couple of weeks or so for an update. But fine.


Why don’t you try the Jank idler? It’s honestly fantastic and silent and stainless steel. I bought the solid state bearing separately and it worked flawlessly. Stop just waiting for the NSW one if you can “do whatever you want”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

johnsogr said:


> Why don’t you try the Jank idler? It’s honestly fantastic and silent and stainless steel. I bought the solid state bearing separately and it worked flawlessly. Stop just waiting for the NSW one if you can “do whatever you want”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


seconding the jank idler. great component.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I thought Forbidden said that the fenders were going to be released to their dealers. I assumed that's where I should go.


Somebody asked on the FB page about getting one if you didn't have a LBS - that was the first I saw of the fender or that it was free to all owners. I guess that was last night? I sent them an email and assume they'll get back to me next week.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Yes, I am a little peeved right now. I have been waiting for months for that idler. But that isn't the LBS's fault. As for the fender, yes - I can wait. It would have been nice to get one sooner rather than later. But whatever. And it would have been nice for the dealer to put one aside for me, given that I have been on a wait list for the idler for months now, emailing them every couple of weeks or so for an update. But fine.


Not to fan the flames, but yeah, if you had one on order and they didn't get one for you, that's not cool.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

It’s not the bike I am disappointed in. Or lack of a new fender, per se.

I have been happily running moto foam almost from day 1. Shortly after I purchased the frame, I was told by Travis Bickle/Legbacon/Jerry (RIP), the OP in this thread, to use moto foam because there had been some incidents with rocks, early on. I took his advice and am happy with the current set up. He also made me promise not to post that because he didn’t want to cause any problems with Forbidden, or the dealer he was working at.

My local Forbidden dealer has been great on many fronts. They are exceptional mechanics, especially with all things suspension related. And they SHRED. I’m sure those guys have all earned a special place in heaven dealing with me.

It’s not their fault. But I would have appreciated it if they would have set one aside for me. That’s all. Especially when I am in regular contact, patiently waiting for an NSB SS idler. They know I put a billion miles on my bikes and that it’s a huge part of my existence.

Thinking about what @pinkrobe said above, maybe the dealer only got fenders for the customers who bought their Druids there. Maybe I was supposed to go through Forbidden, having got my frame from them. I think I may owe an apology to my dealer here. Which I am officially doing now.

Anyway, I’m sure there are lots in the same boat as me. I’m not special, and shouldn’t feel any kind of entitlement. I will wait for the next run of them. And I will get in touch with Forbidden directly.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It’s not the bike I am disappointed in. Or lack of a new fender, per se.
> 
> I have been happily running moto foam almost from day 1. Shortly after I purchased the frame, I was told by Travis Bickle/Legbacon/Jerry (RIP), the OP in this thread, to use moto foam because there had been some incidents with rocks, early on. I took his advice and am happy with the current set up. He also made me promise not to post that because he didn’t want to cause any problems with Forbidden, or the dealer he was working at.
> 
> ...


sok dude, hope you find a way to get back into that positive headspace and get back on the bike more. We all need to vent sometimes. I'm still mad about all these threadlocked Ti screws forbidden uses lol


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I had a bad day. Then I ate barbecued pork chops laced with MSG. Bad move.
> 
> Clearly I need a good sleep.
> 
> Yes, I am a little peeved right now. I have been waiting for months for that idler. But that isn't the LBS's fault. As for the fender, yes - I can wait. It would have been nice to get one sooner rather than later. But whatever. And it would have been nice for the dealer to put one aside for me, given that I have been on a wait list for the idler for months now, emailing them every couple of weeks or so for an update. But fine.


In the UK they don't even arrive for a few weeks yet! First world problems hey..


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

_HENDO_ said:


> In the UK they don't even arrive for a few weeks yet! First world problems hey..


Exactly. A huge overreaction on my part. Sorry to have dragged you into my madness.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

johnsogr said:


> Why don’t you try the Jank idler? It’s honestly fantastic and silent and stainless steel. I bought the solid state bearing separately and it worked flawlessly. Stop just waiting for the NSW one if you can “do whatever you want”
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you a link where to obtain the solid bearing?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Also my SS idler finally showed up this week. So much nicer than the alloy one.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Energ8t said:


> Do you a link where to obtain the solid bearing?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think it’s this one:









6902 LLU MAX BOSL - Solid-Lube, MAX-Design, Black-Oxide, ABEC-3, Radial Suspension Bearing - 15mm x 28mm x 7mm -


Enduro Bearings Designed and Manufactured Specifically for Bicycles




b2b.endurobearings.com






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Also my SS idler finally showed up this week. So much nicer than the alloy one.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> salt


I ordered it on 9/1! haha so many delays


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

dhbike8 said:


> I have long limbs so that's not an issue, does the front feel wandering, less playful? I rode the 1gen sj evo and it was all over the place on climbs, I'm not opposed but do you get used to ~63 on trail bike?


Not sure if this helps, but I've been using a CC Viscoset to tame front wheel wander.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

dhbike8 said:


> Hello, I was wondering if anyone here was under 6' on a XL? I'm 5'11 on a good day and have been on my L for 18months now and really like it, but with a 800mm bar and 50mm stem it doesn't feel very big. The bike is so capable it just wants to go faster and faster and it feels a bit skittish at speed on rougher trails. My downtube is cracked again and I'm considering asking for a XL front end. I was also looking at throwing in a -1 headset and bumping the fork to 160 which should give it a ~64 HTA and 480 reach which is a little more inline with newer bikes. Thoughts?
> View attachment 1956254
> 
> Cheers!


Can't speak to the size...but FWIW I run the Wolf Tooth -1, 160mm 36 and Cascade link...the bike is finally good. I know many disagree, but stock this bike punches below its weight and personally I'd never buy it again...with Cascade, 64 HA, and 160mm fork its finally a good bike.

If I was you I'd ask Forbidden if they'll send you a Dreadnought as a replacement.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

I don’t do the Facebook, what is so special about the new fender?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

unrealityshow said:


> I don’t do the Facebook, what is so special about the new fender?


Probably nothing much. It serves the same purpose as the moto foam. But it's OEM and it's free. Sounds like you aren't on anyone's VIP list either.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> Can't speak to the size...but FWIW I run the Wolf Tooth -1, 160mm 36 and Cascade link...the bike is finally good. I know many disagree, but stock this bike punches below its weight and personally I'd never buy it again...with Cascade, 64 HA, and 160mm fork its finally a good bike.
> 
> If I was you I'd ask Forbidden if they'll send you a Dreadnought as a replacement.


I love mine with a 150 36, and an 11-6. Most verstile bike I have ever owned. It does everything well on every kind of terrain. Maybe I'm easy to please (I'm joking).


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## ForbiddenLG (Oct 13, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Emailed my dealer. None left. That really pisses me off. So far I have missed out on the NSB SS idlers and now the fenders.
> 
> The quirkiness of the bike doesn’t bother me in the slightest. But this $hit does.
> 
> ...


Hey have you reached out to Forbidden directly and explained your situation? We would be happy to get one out for you


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ForbiddenLG said:


> Hey have you reached out to Forbidden directly and explained your situation? We would be happy to get one out for you


Thanks!!!

I'm emailing Jonathan right now about the fender and the NSB SS idler.

Thanks again, and sorry to have caused a kerfuffle.

Mike


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> I don’t do the Facebook, what is so special about the new fender?


It has been revised to provide more coverage and with the motofoam piece, stop rocks from getting in the crush zone the bikes have


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

Cool, nice to see it integrated like that. I’ve had the jank components printed one, and it works rather well. Sounds like I may have to ask Fanatik about it. And no, I’ve never been very important, let alone put on a list.


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## jay_paradox (Oct 21, 2020)

unrealityshow said:


> And no, I’ve never been very important, let alone put on a list.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

I just emailed Forbidden and they gave me a discount code to get free shipping on a free fender, which is now ordered. Try it!


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have been waiting for months for that idler.


That's maybe not a bad thing. I broke mine into little pieces inside of a month. I just received a replacement and am nervous about installing it in case it strands me somewhere.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

unrealityshow said:


> Cool, nice to see it integrated like that. I’ve had the jank components printed one, and it works rather well. Sounds like I may have to ask Fanatik about it. And no, I’ve never been very important, let alone put on a list.


I reached out to Fanatik. They have not received their fenders in yet. They said they would contact me once they do. I do not know if that is because they have a list of people who bought bikes from them, or because I asked.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Just wanted to say that I returned from a long therapeutic ride today (on dirt - wow, what an unprecedented season!) and was greeted by a really nice email from Forbidden. Thank you Forbidden.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

dubthang said:


> I reached out to Fanatik. They have not received their fenders in yet. They said they would contact me once they do. I do not know if that is because they have a list of people who bought bikes from them, or because I asked.


I got the same response - I purchased mine secondhand from a guy who bought it from Fanatik.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Just wanted to give a shout out to Forbidden's customer support. I emailed to ask for a new/winter fender as I don't have a dealer close. Within 5 mins of sending the email I received a shipping notice. I'm happy with that.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Frazam said:


> Just wanted to give a shout out to Forbidden's customer support. I emailed to ask for a new/winter fender as I don't have a dealer close. Within 5 mins of sending the email I received a shipping notice. I'm happy with that.


Same here! I got an email from Forbidden last night, ordered the free fender with free shipping code, and it shipped this morning.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

pinkrobe said:


> Same here! I got an email from Forbidden last night, ordered the free fender with free shipping code, and it shipped this morning.


I did the same from the US. They were on it.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

To further complicate matters, I'll add this. 

Just installed the Sram EX1 wide range 8spd on my 180mm high pivot and it works great. It's a very, very simple but clever design that works well with the HSP suspension. Way better layout than the Box Prime 9. The derailleur is lighter than my X01 eagle and cassette is as well. Didn't weigh the sifter but it's probably on par with a GX etc. The only caveat is it's a one click, one gear shift so no multiple cogs with one push. With only 8spds it's really not an issue. Its also a 11-48 so some might have to run a 30t up front for enough crawl or a 34t to make up for the 11t. My SX has a 34t round and is a 27.5 in the back so it isn't too bad to pedal back up to the top.

Gonna give this drivetrain a try on the druid once I get the current XTR dialed in over the next month or so.

Definitely worth considering the Sram 8spd if you're building frame up and don't want to hassle with the 12spd nonsense.

My crap 2c


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

First proper ride on the Druid at China Camp in Marin County, CA. What a BIKE.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Has anyone else had problems with broken hub axles on their Druids? 
I’ve managed to break 2 hydra rear axles this season! 

I have 3 i9 hydra wheel sets and this is the only bike that I’ve ever had broken axles on. 

Just bad luck on my part?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Has anyone else had problems with broken hub axles on their Druids?
> I’ve managed to break 2 hydra rear axles this season!
> 
> I have 3 i9 hydra wheel sets and this is the only bike that I’ve ever had broken axles on.
> ...


I may be way off base here, but a lot of folks appear to have had difficulty with the stock rear axle. Forbidden has replaced this with the Burgtec at their site. Many believe it was replaced because the stock axle has not performed well for some.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I may be way off base here, but a lot of folks appear to have had difficulty with the stock rear axle. Forbidden has replaced this with the Burgtec at their site. Many believe it was replaced because the stock axle has not performed well for some.


Yes, I have broken the rear frame axle as well.

I kinda knew there was problems there, which got me thinking that there might be some flex, and this is why my hub axles are breaking as well. 


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

I post rarely, but nearly 2 years into a lot of Druid riding, I have had the axle issue. Warning signs: derailleur sounds a little off, harder to pedal, and maybe the slightest of a wobbly feeling. 
If the axle backs out a bit, consider yourself lucky. I was riding the other day, and on mellow trail landing the smallest sideways boost, I heard the crack. Pic posted. Luckily, I saw this coming a while ago, and purchased another stock axle to keep on hand. I should have bought the solid aluminum OneUp axle. However, if this happened at speed or in rough terrain, I'm sure I could have been injured with the failure. 
Axle aside, the bike has been awesome, as well as the service from Forbidden. Still running the same bearings, too. I ride mainly 3x4 times a week,1-1.5 hour rides in NorCal; nothing too gnarly (as in most drops and jumps are not more than 2-3 feet high), and rocky right single track is a lot of the ride when descending. I wish there was a bit more reach as I'm 5'11 on an L, and the 465 reach is still shortish; two years later you're seeing more 480-90 in this size. I've tried a Push 11-6 (too heavy and trail numbing), and now a Cane Creek DB IL coil, which is much better. Still, the DPX2 remains my favorite as you get to retain the poppy feeling. I've set the bike up with a Fox36 Factory Fit4, often wishing I went for a lighter Pike UItimate. The EX511s with 240s are SWEET; zero issues at my 210 lb riding weight. SRAM AXS GX upgrade kit on my original Shimano XT drivetrain has been brilliant. Worth every penny. 
Would I do a high pivot again? Not sure, but I plan to ride this bike another year at lest as nothing seems to take the place for what this can do. And I go deep down the rabbit hole when searching for bikes, which is soooo time consuming. I actually wish Frobidden would make a more trail oriented bike than a mini-enduro rig. Owen Pemberton seems to have the magic sauce, and it would be a shame to limit it to high pivots at Forbidden.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Planning to bring my Druid to meet the family back home to the Bay during the holidays. I could not be more excited. I definitely bought this frame planning to ride the local central Texas chunk, as well as frequent visits to Santa Cruz.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

Kmag76 said:


> Has anyone else had problems with broken hub axles on their Druids?
> I’ve managed to break 2 hydra rear axles this season!
> 
> I have 3 i9 hydra wheel sets and this is the only bike that I’ve ever had broken axles on.
> ...


There have been a few busted axles reported here, but not mine after 2+ years. That said, I'm not getting sideways on my Druid as much as some folks, so maybe the twisting loads on mine aren't as significant? I should probably pick up a spare - y'all have got me worried now...


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

pinkrobe said:


> There have been a few busted axles reported here, but not mine after 2+ years. That said, I'm not getting sideways on my Druid as much as some folks, so maybe the twisting loads on mine aren't as significant? I should probably pick up a spare - y'all have got me worried now...


I have broken 1 stock Druid rear axles, but I was more getting at rear hub axles. Kinda crazy to break 2 i9 hydra axles in 1 season. 

I’ve also been having a lot of issues as of late with idlers as well. 
I do enjoy this bike, but The amount of maintenance compared to most is on another level! 












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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

dustybarrels said:


> I post rarely, but nearly 2 years into a lot of Druid riding, I have had the axle issue. Warning signs: derailleur sounds a little off, harder to pedal, and maybe the slightest of a wobbly feeling.
> If the axle backs out a bit, consider yourself lucky. I was riding the other day, and on mellow trail landing the smallest sideways boost, I heard the crack. Pic posted. Luckily, I saw this coming a while ago, and purchased another stock axle to keep on hand. I should have bought the solid aluminum OneUp axle. However, if this happened at speed or in rough terrain, I'm sure I could have been injured with the failure.
> Axle aside, the bike has been awesome, as well as the service from Forbidden. Still running the same bearings, too. I ride mainly 3x4 times a week,1-1.5 hour rides in NorCal; nothing too gnarly (as in most drops and jumps are not more than 2-3 feet high), and rocky right single track is a lot of the ride when descending. I wish there was a bit more reach as I'm 5'11 on an L, and the 465 reach is still shortish; two years later you're seeing more 480-90 in this size. I've tried a Push 11-6 (too heavy and trail numbing), and now a Cane Creek DB IL coil, which is much better. Still, the DPX2 remains my favorite as you get to retain the poppy feeling. I've set the bike up with a Fox36 Factory Fit4, often wishing I went for a lighter Pike UItimate. The EX511s with 240s are SWEET; zero issues at my 210 lb riding weight. SRAM AXS GX upgrade kit on my original Shimano XT drivetrain has been brilliant. Worth every penny.
> Would I do a high pivot again? Not sure, but I plan to ride this bike another year at lest as nothing seems to take the place for what this can do. And I go deep down the rabbit hole when searching for bikes, which is soooo time consuming. I actually wish Frobidden would make a more trail oriented bike than a mini-enduro rig. Owen Pemberton seems to have the magic sauce, and it would be a shame to limit it to high pivots at Forbidden.
> View attachment 1956728


You are spot on with the warning signs, the first time I had broken a rear hub axle, it was hard to figure out exactly what had happened. The rear ended felt a little flecked, and the shifting was off. Which cases me to pull everything apart for a service. And then discovered the broken rear axle. 
I kinda just chalked it up as a one off thing, but then recently it happened again, making me think it was maybe something with the bike. 

I’ve owned many bikes over the past few years, and haven’t had any issues like this with them. 

Hoping my new bike has far less maintenance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> You are spot on with the warning signs, the first time I had broken a rear hub axle, it was hard to figure out exactly what had happened. The rear ended felt a little flecked, and the shifting was off. Which cases me to pull everything apart for a service. And then discovered the broken rear axle.
> I kinda just chalked it up as a one off thing, but then recently it happened again, making me think it was maybe something with the bike.
> 
> I’ve owned many bikes over the past few years, and haven’t had any issues like this with them.
> ...


I forgot one more warning sign: if the rear end, wheel in hand, flexes a little too much left to right. I was actually surprised how stiff the Druid rear end was compared to my last Knolly Warden. My Knolly was super stiff, and I haven't even tried their 157 rears yet. I was expecting less stiffness with the single pivot, but the Druid was very close to what I had going on with the Warden. The first time I test rode a Yeti SB 100, the suspension bolts backed out on me, and I've always been testing rear wheel flex since. At 200lbs I can make that rear wheel suffer a bit... 
I don't think the Druid axle issue is as much a design problem as it is inherent to the weak unit itself. $10 more than a Forbidden replacement: Axle R


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I have broken 1 stock Druid rear axles, but I was more getting at rear hub axles. Kinda crazy to break 2 i9 hydra axles in 1 season.
> 
> I’ve also been having a lot of issues as of late with idlers as well.
> I do enjoy this bike, but The amount of maintenance compared to most is on another level!
> ...


Damn. Bike is a PITA...if I could get a normal bike right now this thing would be long gone...


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Does anyone know if the shim that comes with the OneUp axle (linked above) can replace them shim (I guess it's a shim) that comes stock on the duid? Or is that druid shim somehow attached to the frame? I ask because I crashed and smacked my axle on a rock - scraped it up pretty badly...would be nice if I could replace the axle and shim.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

dustybarrels said:


> Warning signs: derailleur sounds a little off, harder to pedal, and maybe the slightest of a wobbly feeling.


I’ll add to that: impossible to find clicking sounds. I replaced my BB, idler, and chainring, and reinstalled the bb and cassette an embarrassing number of times. Nothing helped. Then I broke my rear axle. Got the new axle installed, hasn’t clicked since.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dustybarrels said:


> I forgot one more warning sign: if the rear end, wheel in hand, flexes a little too much left to right. I was actually surprised how stiff the Druid rear end was compared to my last Knolly Warden. My Knolly was super stiff, and I haven't even tried their 157 rears yet. I was expecting less stiffness with the single pivot, but the Druid was very close to what I had going on with the Warden. The first time I test rode a Yeti SB 100, the suspension bolts backed out on me, and I've always been testing rear wheel flex since. At 200lbs I can make that rear wheel suffer a bit...
> I don't think the Druid axle issue is as much a design problem as it is inherent to the weak unit itself. $10 more than a Forbidden replacement: Axle R


What do you or others think of the Burgtec available from Forbidden, compared to the OneUp?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

I have the sram maxle replacement in mine. Price is right and maxle seems to work fine in all my other bikes.


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## unrealityshow (Oct 29, 2017)

I never had a problem with the stock axle, but I have replaced it with a Burgtec axle. I have about fifty miles on it without issue.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I hope the Burgtec is ok because in addition to the fender and idler (my fifth), I ordered that axle, along with a bearing kit (my first), a lower guide roller (my fourth), and some other goodies.

I’m positioning myself to keep that Druid for at least another 2 years. That will make an even 5 for me. For an mtb (as opposed to a road bike), that will be the second longest I have owned a bike as my go-to trail bike.

I love that bike. In the techy chunk, it climbs better than any bike I have ever owned. I have my suspension dialled. On the downs, I can point and shoot or launch trail features, with a flick of the switch on my 11-6. It’s easily the most versatile bike I have owned.

As for the rear end, I don’t notice any flex. My old SJ FSR XC was flexy AF. This one isn’t.

Is it quirky? You bet. Do some of the drivetrain components wear more quickly than my other bikes? Yup. Does the rearward axle path require ultra-fine derailleur tweaking and for me, the abandonment altogether of a cable? Check. But the thing slays. It immediately leaves me dreaming of my next ride the minute I finish the last one. And it still looks like a timeless piece of industrial art that is equally at home displayed on the floor of the Smithsonian, as it is staring down a pro line, confidently edging me on.

Now, if only I could lift that front end as easily as my Honzo ST (with the sliding drop outs slammed forward)…I have a Ziggy. Still toying with the idea of a mullet…


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I pre-emptively replaced my axle with a Robert Axle Project. No problems since I installed it in the spring.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I hope the Burgtec is ok because in addition to the fender and idler (my fifth), I ordered that axle, along with a bearing kit (my first), a lower guide roller (my fourth), and some other goodies.
> 
> I’m positioning myself to keep that Druid for at least another 2 years. That will make an even 5 for me. For an mtb (as opposed to a road bike), that will be the second longest I have owned a bike as my go-to trail bike.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty much in a carefree relationship with my Druid, mostly good, and bound to last at least 1-2 more years. I just don't see enough changes in bikes to justify something new now, but the new Stumpy and Tallboy look damn enticing. I believe it was the Druid that really redefined that sloping single, continuous frame line that you see a lot of brands copying now. Plus, the longer I deal with slight idler drag, the better shape I'll be in when doing sprints on my next bike, right!?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dustybarrels said:


> I'm pretty much in a carefree relationship with my Druid, mostly good, and bound to last at least 1-2 more years. I just don't see enough changes in bikes to justify something new now, but the new Stumpy and Tallboy look damn enticing. I believe it was the Druid that really redefined that sloping single, continuous frame line that you see a lot of brands copying now. Plus, the longer I deal with slight idler drag, the better shape I'll be in when doing sprints on my next bike, right!?


I was able to pick up a 2021 SJ for my daughter. It’s definitely a sweet bike. But not as sweet as my Druid.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Does anyone in the Portland/Seattle area have a Medium Druid they would let me pay to demo? Tempted to make the switch from a SB130LR


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

dustybarrels said:


> I'm pretty much in a carefree relationship with my Druid, mostly good, and bound to last at least 1-2 more years. I just don't see enough changes in bikes to justify something new now, but the new Stumpy and Tallboy look damn enticing. I believe it was the Druid that really redefined that sloping single, continuous frame line that you see a lot of brands copying now. Plus, the longer I deal with slight idler drag, the better shape I'll be in when doing sprints on my next bike, right!?


Stumpy EVO looks epic...wish there were some available


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

dustybarrels said:


> I'm pretty much in a carefree relationship with my Druid, mostly good, and bound to last at least 1-2 more years. I just don't see enough changes in bikes to justify something new now, but the new Stumpy and Tallboy look damn enticing. I believe it was the Druid that really redefined that sloping single, continuous frame line that you see a lot of brands copying now. Plus, the longer I deal with slight idler drag, the better shape I'll be in when doing sprints on my next bike, right!?


Same here. I couldn’t be happier with my Druid including ease of use and maintenance. Only fidly thing I can think of is figuring out how to get b-gap setup dialed, replace the idler or idler bearing once a season and clean and lube it occasionally, that’s it. If I want to be super picky, I’ll mention the darn high torque settings for the linkage. 


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

I agree - no complaints from me either. My XT build has been pretty simple to keep running well. I appreciate being able to easily do the maintenance that I do need to complete myself with solid instructions from Forbidden....and not having to pay and wait on a shop.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I haven't had any issues with my Druid either aside from the DPX2 being noisy and needing to be sent back to Fox twice. I have replaced the DPX2 and haven't had any noises to speak of or other issues since. I find it easy to work on too.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

I'd be willing to bet that the failure is secondary to axle loosening. This could by why people report shifting problems shortly before failure. 

I have experienced the axle loosening 3x. I now locktite and have had zero issues. FWIW, I am 215lb rider on an XL...which should theoretically increase the stress on the axle.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> What do you or others think of the Burgtec available from Forbidden, compared to the OneUp?


I've had my burgtec axle ages. It's quiet, more robust than the original and no fuss. Exactly as an axle should be.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

tdc_worm said:


> I'd be willing to bet that the failure is secondary to axle loosening. This could by why people report shifting problems shortly before failure.
> 
> I have experienced the axle loosening 3x. I now locktite and have had zero issues. FWIW, I am 215lb rider on an XL...which should theoretically increase the stress on the axle.


I agree with this. I put loctite on my axle before ever riding the bike, I never experienced loosening. However I just couldn't get it out of my mind that they were breaking so it's been replaced with a Maxle stealth.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Secondhand Forbidden owners can e-mail them directly to get a code for their new fenders.


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

Probably being a bit stupid here but how do I get this cover off to access the main pivot?


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## erdawe (Sep 12, 2017)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I am treated like royalty by my main LBS.
> 
> I still have my 2007 Ransom LTD. I rode that bike for 7 years straight, as my only bike. The Druid is the only other bike I have owned having the same kind of magic. Maybe it's time to get a 2022 grandchild. Exactly 15 years later. I believe I have access to a Large 900 Tuned AXS through my main LBS.
> 
> Like I said, I had a bad day. I'm tired and bitc#y. That said, I have the luxury of doing exactly what I want to do, which is exactly what I am going to do. I am really unimpressed at the moment - not with my Druid, which I continue to love.


I have an RRP rear guard that works so well I don't see how the Forbidden fender would be that much of and improvement other than looking a bit cleaner on my contrasting mint green frame. I like it so well I am trying without messy moto foam and hoping for the best. I won't have a great reply until next spring on my thoughts.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

JB1- said:


> Probably being a bit stupid here but how do I get this cover off to access the main pivot?
> View attachment 1957546


Knife, or flat screwdriver. Just pop it off...there is a big ass bolt under it, you won't damage anything.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

I forgot to mention I've been running the SS idler for a few weeks now. All the gunk buildup is no longer. I used to have to clean that idler every 4-5 rides. With a lot of wear, a few teeth chipped off on my first unit, as well, and I had replaced that once. Something about stainless steel, it's just not getting anywhere close to the crud buildup on it as the stock idler. Worthy upgrade. Even cooler was I remember giving my input to Nathan that I would buy one of these for sure, and with enough support, Forbidden designed these and put them into production. It does feel like Forbidden listens to feedback, and makes the right changes. The mud/foamie thing being another example.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

@dustybarrels I think I was the first who responded to Owen’s post in this thread, way back when, asking whether anyone would be interested in an SS idler. I have since chewed through 3 stock idlers and am on my fourth.

I hope to finally be getting my SS idler early next week (the tracker indicates this, although I am not holding my breath, given the horrible situation in BC at the moment). SuspensionWerx advised that they are basically shut down, so no servicing of my 11-6 until further notice. First world problems though. Having gone through devastating flooding in 2013, my heart goes out to them.

@pinkrobe @meeeeep @Kmag76 @ForbiddenLG Anyone else in BC… You guys/gals all ok?


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @dustybarrels I think I was the first who responded to Owen’s post in this thread, way back when, asking whether anyone would be interested in an SS idler. I have since chewed through 3 stock idlers and am on my fourth.
> 
> I hope to finally be getting my SS idler early next week (the tracker indicates this, although I am not holding my breath, given the horrible situation in BC at the moment). SuspensionWerx advised that they are basically shut down, so no servicing of my 11-6 until further notice. First world problems though. Having gone through devastating flooding in 2013, my heart goes out to them.
> 
> @pinkrobe @meeeeep @Kmag76 @ForbiddenLG Anyone else in BC… You guys/gals all ok?


Words can't seem to describe that flooding; hopefully all recover well. As for the SS idler, you will massively appreciate it.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Winter fender boom done


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @dustybarrels I think I was the first who responded to Owen’s post in this thread, way back when, asking whether anyone would be interested in an SS idler. I have since chewed through 3 stock idlers and am on my fourth.
> 
> I hope to finally be getting my SS idler early next week (the tracker indicates this, although I am not holding my breath, given the horrible situation in BC at the moment). SuspensionWerx advised that they are basically shut down, so no servicing of my 11-6 until further notice. First world problems though. Having gone through devastating flooding in 2013, my heart goes out to them.
> 
> @pinkrobe @meeeeep @Kmag76 @ForbiddenLG Anyone else in BC… You guys/gals all ok?


All well here! Hope everyone else is good.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> All well here! Hope everyone else is good.


Great to hear. Thanks for checking in.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @dustybarrels I think I was the first who responded to Owen’s post in this thread, way back when, asking whether anyone would be interested in an SS idler. I have since chewed through 3 stock idlers and am on my fourth.
> 
> I hope to finally be getting my SS idler early next week (the tracker indicates this, although I am not holding my breath, given the horrible situation in BC at the moment). SuspensionWerx advised that they are basically shut down, so no servicing of my 11-6 until further notice. First world problems though. Having gone through devastating flooding in 2013, my heart goes out to them.
> 
> @pinkrobe @meeeeep @Kmag76 @ForbiddenLG Anyone else in BC… You guys/gals all ok?


All good over here as well! Appreciate the concern 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

JB1- said:


> Probably being a bit stupid here but how do I get this cover off to access the main pivot?
> View attachment 1957546


I noticed your pivot hardware is silver. Mine is anodized black--was there a change, or is this a dreadnought?


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

hbar said:


> I noticed your pivot hardware is silver. Mine is anodized black--was there a change, or is this a dreadnought?


No it’s a Druid think it’s one of the first frames. I bought it second hand a month ago as a full build someone had built up in lockdown. It’s been ridden about 10 miles so lucky me 😂 put a ziggy link on last night and noticed my linkage was different and also a two piece design bolted together and the bolt holding the ziggy link in is a male and female so the male bolt sticks out a bit on the link ….has anyone got the same?


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Anyone know of someone selling a size medium druid frame?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

JB1- said:


> No it’s a Druid think it’s one of the first frames. I bought it second hand a month ago as a full build someone had built up in lockdown. It’s been ridden about 10 miles so lucky me 😂 put a ziggy link on last night and noticed my linkage was different and also a two piece design bolted together and the bolt holding the ziggy link in is a male and female so the male bolt sticks out a bit on the link ….has anyone got the same?
> View attachment 1957920


Very interesting.

My frame was from the very first production run. I have black ano hardware.









It’s black ano in this early PB article as well:



https://m.pinkbike.com/news/forbidden-bike-company-high-pivot-trail-bike-crankworx-whistler-2018.html



I think @JB1- has the same hardware - it just looks a little lighter in colour in the photo (as does mine).

The linkage in that photo appears to be the original linkage that some of us (including me) had replaced with the V2 linkage. One of the requirements of running the Ziggy Link was the V2 linkage. Oddly I can’t find that requirement at Forbidden’s site anymore (it used to be there). Here’s a link to Fanatik that mentions this requirement:









Forbidden Bike Co. Ziggy Link


Ziggy Link allows Forbidden Druid and Dreadnought owners the ability to apply the business up front, party out back mixed wheel size approach to their bikes. Replacing the lower link from the two-part Rate Control linkage, Ziggy Link re-calibrates the geometry to accept a smaller 27.5in rear...




www.fanatikbike.com


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Are any secondhand Druid owners receiving their mud guards directly from Forbidden?
> 
> I received what I thought was a snarky response from Forbidden. I sent an email explaining that I was a secondhand owner and I wasn't sure which shop to reach out to since they don't have a dealer in the central US. Their response was sending me a link to the shop locator. Really?
> 
> My other interactions with Forbidden have been great, so I'm hoping the person responding was maybe a little tired or preoccupied with something else...


I'm in PNW and was given a direct link on the website. Possible they are giving priority to original owners, but seeing as there are so few owners out there (relatively speaking), odd they don't just send out to all owners. Unless they only made like 100 fenders (?)

Also... This is less "winter fender" and more like fender upgrade 2.0 based on forum and user feedback. Still nice they are sending out for free. They certainly did not have to do that.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

hbar said:


> I noticed your pivot hardware is silver. Mine is anodized black--was there a change, or is this a dreadnought?


I believe the first run of druids had titanium frame hardware. 
If this is an older Druid, then that is probably why. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> I believe the first run of druids had titanium frame hardware.
> If this is an older Druid, then that is probably why.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I stand corrected. You are quite correct Sir. Mine has the titanium hardware.


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Very interesting.
> 
> My frame was from the very first production run. I have black ano hardware.
> View attachment 1957931
> ...


Yeah the main pivot is black ano and then the rest are titanium is that same as yours?

I was wondering about the ziggy link and my linkage as like I showed in the pic it doesn’t sit in like the v2 one does. But from what I can see it clears the inside of the frame so is it ok or should I get onto forbidden about it?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

JB1- said:


> Yeah the main pivot is black ano and then the rest are titanium is that same as yours?
> 
> I was wondering about the ziggy link and my linkage as like I showed in the pic it doesn’t sit in like the v2 one does. But from what I can see it clears the inside of the frame so is it ok or should I get onto forbidden about it?


I would definitely contact Forbidden. Once they deal with the BC flooding crisis they may send you a V2 linkage for free. There were all sorts of warnings when the Ziggy was released that you needed the V2 linkage to run it.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

habaden said:


> Anyone know of someone selling a size medium druid frame?


Not a full frame, but I have medium front triangle for sale on pinkbike, if interested.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

fizzywater said:


> Not a full frame, but I have medium front triangle for sale on pinkbike, if interested.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How difficult would it be to get a rear triangle?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

habaden said:


> How difficult would it be to get a rear triangle?


Don’t know. 


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

Kmag76 said:


> I believe the first run of druids had titanium frame hardware.
> If this is an older Druid, then that is probably why.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


^^^This.
I've got a V1 frame and it has titanium hardware. The linkage was originally made in two pieces. When the mullet link came out it wouldn't fit the V1 link hence all frames from then on have the V2 link which is all one piece for it to fit!

To Forbidden's credit, they sent me out a new V2 link to fit the mullet link I'd just bought for no extra charge!


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

_HENDO_ said:


> ^^^This.
> I've got a V1 frame and it has titanium hardware. The linkage was originally made in two pieces. When the mullet link came out it wouldn't fit the V1 link hence all frames from then on have the V2 link which is all one piece for it to fit!
> 
> To Forbidden's credit, they sent me out a new V2 link to fit the mullet link I'd just bought for no extra charge!


Yeah messaged them on Instagram and told me I can’t use the v1 linkage and to email the customer service team so hopefully they’ll send me one out


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> I'm in PNW and was given a direct link on the website. Possible they are giving priority to original owners, but seeing as there are so few owners out there (relatively speaking), odd they don't just send out to all owners. Unless they only made like 100 fenders (?)
> 
> Also... This is less "winter fender" and more like fender upgrade 2.0 based on forum and user feedback. Still nice they are sending out for free. They certainly did not have to do that.
> 
> ...


 They actually ended up sending me one of those codes on their website over the weekend! I'll probably buy a shirt to show some love.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Okay so what is the opinion on the best rear shock for the Druid? 

Storia? 

Anyone running one with a cascade link?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> Okay so what is the opinion on the best rear shock for the Druid?
> 
> Storia?
> 
> Anyone running one with a cascade link?


Not sure if it’s the “best”, but I am reasonably happy with my 11-6. I would recommend it to anyone not pleased with the DPX2. I’m sure the Storia is a fine choice as well.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

FYI cannot use Storia with Cascade link


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

johnsogr said:


> FYI cannot use Storia with Cascade link
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well thats a bummer


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Well update...bought a Stumpy EVO. lol.

Will be posting up the Large Druid frame with a Float X2 if anyone is looking...lots of extras:

Ziggy
Cascade Link (and stock link)
Angle set (and stock headset)
2 extra idlers
2 extra hangers
AXS reverb post with it as well if interested - 170mm.

It's been fun but just too much work to keep this thing going for me...I need a set it and forget it kind of bike.

HMU


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

hothb said:


> Well update...bought a Stumpy EVO. lol.
> 
> Will be posting up the Large Druid frame with a Float X2 if anyone is looking...lots of extras:
> 
> ...


dang I’d be all over this if it was a medium! Hope you enjoy your stumpy!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

hothb said:


> Well update...bought a Stumpy EVO. lol.
> 
> Will be posting up the Large Druid frame with a Float X2 if anyone is looking...lots of extras:
> 
> ...


I bought my daughter a 2021 SJ. Awesome bike. She rides light. I would have otherwise been worried about the side loading shock. Not sure if that’s a thing with the Evo but it is with the non-Evo version. I don’t think it is. A hard charging sponsored guy I know is rocking an Ohlins equipped Evo with a Cascade link in Nelson, with no problem. Congrats! We will miss you here.


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Thanks gents. I had an old Stumpy - 2019 pre Druid and always liked it.

I liked the Druid I really did - personally I felt it was one of the best climbers I've ever ridden and it never got much credit for that honestly but it just does not suit my riding style it seems. 

Onward!


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

It's official: a few muddy and crud sticking rides in with the new SS idler, and it's noticeably far cleaner than the the old version, which would build up black gunk in spades. One less reason I to switch bikes, and I now see myself carrying this out into 2024 no problem. I disliked using the 2mm Allen key to peel that crud off ALL THE TIME. I should just get the Burgtec or OneUp axle, and be done with this. Still grinning each time I'm getting the bike to speed. So quick in medium sized trail chunk and roots for 130mm in the rear...


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dustybarrels said:


> It's official: a few muddy and crud sticking rides in with the new SS idler, and it's noticeably far cleaner than the the old version, which would build up black gunk in spades. One less reason I to switch bikes, and I now see myself carrying this out into 2024 no problem. I disliked using the 2mm Allen key to peel that crud off ALL THE TIME. I should just get the Burgtec or OneUp axle, and be done with this. Still grinning each time I'm getting the bike to speed. So quick in medium sized trail chunk and roots for 130mm in the rear...


Miraculously, my SS idler, Burgtec axle and a whack of other $hit from Forbidden is still scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Not sure how they made it through all the chaos, but they seem to have been able to get it to me despite no highways. Incredible!


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## hothb (May 20, 2015)

Selling a large Druid frame and lots of extras in case anyone is interested: https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3209514/


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Miraculously, my SS idler, Burgtec axle and a whack of other $hit from Forbidden is still scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Not sure how they made it through all the chaos, but they seem to have been able to get it to me despite no highways. Incredible!


Nice!

Did you order the stuff directly from Forbidden?

I’ve been waiting for them to get the SS idler back in stock. 
I’ve also gone through 4 idlers, 2 chainrings, 2 rollers. 

Hoping the SS idler is the ticket. 


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Nice!
> 
> Did you order the stuff directly from Forbidden?
> 
> ...


Yes, I contacted Forbidden directly. It sounds like you ride a lot. I've gone through a roller, but I used the living hell out of the first one before I realized it was something that needed to be replaced. The only ticket the SS idler holds, IMHO, is that it will not collect crud and will last longer than the standard version. I don't believe it's going help with any drivetrain wear on other components. I do religiously wipe down and lube my chain after each ride; and I carefully get the crud off the cassette once every few months.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Miraculously, my SS idler, Burgtec axle and a whack of other $hit from Forbidden is still scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Not sure how they made it through all the chaos, but they seem to have been able to get it to me despite no highways. Incredible!


The Burgtec Axle is a nice piece of kit. I've got one on the fork and rear of my Dreadnought. It's a nice bit of bling.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

Thanks!

Yeah I have been in contact with them for awhile now, seems they are still waiting on them to come in. 

I to am on top of maintenance when it comes to my bikes. Usually a good cleaning and a small tune up post rides, with an ultrasonic drivetrain bath once a month. ( I’ve been having good luck with Dumonde tech classic lite and wolftooth wt-1 chain lube this yr)
They seem to keep the drive train cleaner 
The new SS idler sounds like exactly what I’m looking for. 

I’m not sure if I will be using my Druid going forward though, I have an WAO arrival on the way, which I’m hoping I can replace the Druid and my spesh Enduro with. 


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

@CHWK How are you liking the dominion/Galfer rotor combo? I have been running this combo as well. And love it. 

I’ve tried a couple different rotors with my dominions, and find the galfers offer more bite. 

View attachment 1958497
[/QUOTE]


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> @CHWK How are you liking the dominion/Galfer rotor combo? I have been running this combo as well. And love it.
> 
> I’ve tried a couple different rotors with my dominions, and find the galfers offer more bite.
> 
> View attachment 1958497



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE]
I love them. Best brake set up I've ever had. I have a 223 in the front. There is almost too much power there sometimes


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Kmag76 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah I have been in contact with them for awhile now, seems they are still waiting on them to come in.
> 
> ...


Wow. Incredible. Congrats!


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

CHWK said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I love them. Best brake set up I've ever had. I have a 223 in the front. There is almost too much power there sometimes [/QUOTE]

I agree with you there! 

I had a 220 rotor/Trickstuff power pads in my cura 4s and it was almost scary sometimes on steep descents


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Wow. Incredible. Congrats!


Thanks! Always looking to try something different. 


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah I have been in contact with them for awhile now, seems they are still waiting on them to come in.
> 
> ...


WAO.... wow. That's going to be a sweet ride. A bit too much bike for what I need here, but very interested to see what you think of it. I'm definitely going for a set of their wheels on my next ride. 
Can't fault my EX511s at the moment. 

Dumonde on all my chains, as well. Can't tell what's better... the Dumonde or ProGold Xtreme?


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

Cascade's lower guide replacement is available now:








Forbidden Lower MTB Chain Guide | US | Cascade Components


Lower only chain guide and bash guard for the Forbidden Druid and Dreadnought. Providing excellent chain retention without added drag.




cascadecomponents.bike


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Outlawed said:


> Cascade's lower guide replacement is available now:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not a knock - what’s the advantage of this guide over an MRP SXg?


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

@Dingleberrry 
Cascade claims that there is zero contact between the guide and chain.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Outlawed said:


> @Dingleberrry
> Cascade claims that there is zero contact between the guide and chain.


Is the SXg not the same? It’s not a roller type lower guide.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

So…not surprisingly, my shipment from Forbidden, due last Tuesday, is now scheduled to arrive Monday. Not too bad, all things considered. 

Has anyone ordered the bearing kit? Has anyone replaced their linkage/pivot bearings? Any issues?

Unrelated second question, if I may…

Is anyone running Hydras (or another super high/infinite POE hub) on their Druid? Maybe a Vesper? If so, did you notice any undue or premature wear on your idler, or anything else kickback-related?

Thanks.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

mtnbkrmike said:


> So…not surprisingly, my shipment from Forbidden, due last Tuesday, is now scheduled to arrive Monday. Not too bad, all things considered.
> 
> Has anyone ordered the bearing kit? Has anyone replaced their linkage/pivot bearings? Any issues?
> 
> ...


Yes, I’ve replaced linkage bearings on my Druid. No issues! 

And yes, I’m running hydras on my Druid. 
I’ve definitely had issues with worn idlers, both sets of wheels I’ve used on my Druid have used hydra hubs, so I have no idea if the hub is at fault. 
And I have not noticed any pedal kickback. ( they are a great hub, despite 2x broken hub axles this season) 


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

hothb said:


> Well thats a bummer


Fyi Pinner machine shop in whistler makes a new storia part that allows it to fit with the cascade link. I think its around 70$


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Is anyone running Hydras (or another super high/infinite POE hub) on their Druid? Maybe a Vesper? If so, did you notice any undue or premature wear on your idler, or anything else kickback-related?
> 
> Thanks.


I have Project321's. I haven't had to replace my idler yet, but I built up my bike in July. There is some wear on the idler though. I haven't noticed much kickback, but I can see it happen if I drop the rear of the bike when I'm off of it.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Took a trip to Bentonville for the holiday weekend. My DPX2 definitely needs a rebuild. For how groomed these trails look in the videos, they were surprisingly ROUGH. Oh well. Still had a blast.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I have no idea how they did it but Canada Post managed to make it through an apocalypse between me and Cumberland to get my stuff to me. Hats off to Forbidden and to Canada Post. Wow.


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## Miritochino (Nov 30, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I have no idea how they did it but Canada Post managed to make it through an apocalypse between me and Cumberland to get my stuff to me. Hats off to Forbidden and to Canada Post. Wow.
> View attachment 1959165
> 
> View attachment 1959168


Hey, curious how you got hands on that ss idler ? its been out of stock for quite a while now.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

Interesting article on NSMB today regarding the druid + cascade link: https://nsmb.com/articles/cascade-components-forbidden-druid-nought-link/


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Frazam said:


> Interesting article on NSMB today regarding the druid + cascade link: https://nsmb.com/articles/cascade-components-forbidden-druid-nought-link/


Running hard with work crap. In meetings. What’s the TL; DR version? Do we all need to run and grab a Cascade Link or are we good? 😝


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Running hard with work crap. In meetings. What’s the TL; DR version? Do we all need to run and grab a Cascade Link or are we good? 😝


Very positive review overall. I am definitely more interested in picking one up than before I read it.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Frazam said:


> Very positive review overall. I am definitely more interested in picking one up than before I read it.


I just skimmed it.

At 185 pounds running an 11-6 with a 425 lb coil, I am less interested. I seem to be right in the wheelhouse for good performance, weight wise running the stock link with my 11-6.

The tester was 155 and encountered issues with the stock set up, and coil, as a result of his weight. I have never understand all the criticisms of Fox forks either. I think I am right in the wheeelhouse weight wise for those too.

I’m good. Based on the comments, I’m also good refraining from a mullet set up, for the time being at least.

No uncontrollable urge to spend, after skimming it. Thanks for posting it.


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## Frazam (Apr 17, 2007)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I just skimmed it.
> 
> At 185 pounds running an 11-6 with a 425 lb coil, I am less interested. I seem to be right in the wheelhouse for good performance, weight wise.
> 
> ...


No problem and solid quick recap. I agree re: rider weight having a big factor. I'm similar weight to you and have been happy with stock overall. Complains really do seem to come most often from the lighter weight class.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Frazam said:


> No problem and solid quick recap. I agree re: rider weight having a big factor. I'm similar weight to you and have been happy with stock overall. Complains really do seem to come most often from the lighter weight class.


Yep, it can be a challenge at times for us featherweights . I am usually 150 pounds out of the shower and that can be challenging at times regarding good shock setup. Was sick with C-19 until a week ago and now I am down to 140…ridiculous . I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Cascade link today. We shall see.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

Cascade chain guide purchased and received (for 32T). Nice looking piece of kit with a sweet little cloth bag for the two screws. Removing the E13 guide, here are some thoughts that came to mind:

1) I can't wait to get rid of another roller with considerable wear on it. (I've already replaced this once.)
2) Didn't that roller add chain tension?
3) Cascade are true problem solvers if this actually works as promised. The E13 roller is trying to solve what Cascade has done by approach angles and a handy bumper. Downside with Cascade is you are locked into a chainring size, but I will take that over the roller any day. ( I forgot to mention that if you hear your rear tire rub or some tread zip when laying down power, your outer rear tire is touching your inner chain guide roller because your axle is loosening and you are now in danger.)

I removed the E13 unit with the roller guide, and luckily saved my washers. Attaching the Cascade unit with washers closest to frame, everything seemed tight and was not rubbing, however the chain was considerably more slack. I contacted Cascade, who claims that Forbidden was not totally accurate in their measurement with the chain, and I would likely have to adjust the B-tension or remove a link. I have Shimano XT 10-52 cassette, and switched to SRAM GX AXS for the shifting. I hate messing with chain and derailleur setup, but can maintain it OK, so off to the bikeshop I go later. If this no-drop chain guide actually works well without a lower tensioner, and it should, then the quick wear E13 thingy is history. Which means only one extra contraption is needed for high pivot witchcraft: the SS idler. And the SS idler puts the aluminum version to shame. However, following that logic, isn't the next move to remove the idler, and design a more zen suspension system? Go minimal? Even if they kept the high pivot on the next trail bike, but got rid of the lower chain guide, I'd probably be game.
Anyhow, I really like Forbidden, the bikes and support are solid, and they came out of the gates blazing on their first bike. I can't wait to see what they do next with a trail bike. I don't need an Enduro sled. Will report back when the chain guide is tuned in and given some good shake'n'bake.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

There's no way this Cascade tensioner would work with an elliptical chainring would it?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

meeeeep said:


> There's no way this Cascade tensioner would work with an elliptical chainring would it?


Per info on Cascade website it works only with round chainrings and limited to 30 or 32 chainrings, at least the ones for Forbidden.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

dustybarrels said:


> Cascade chain guide purchased and received (for 32T). Nice looking piece of kit with a sweet little cloth bag for the two screws. Removing the E13 guide, here are some thoughts that came to mind:
> 
> 1) I can't wait to get rid of another roller with considerable wear on it. (I've already replaced this once.)
> 2) Didn't that roller add chain tension?
> ...


To your number 2 point: There is an adjustment on your derailleur called the B-Tension screw. It removes slack from the bottom side of the chain (after you have the appropriate chain length, not to overcome bad chain length). Rollers don't add tension. additionally, the tension on your drive train is on the seat stay side. The B Tension setting accounts for all of the slack on bottom side of the drive train. 

Forbidden didn't make a bad chain measurement. They provide a measurement for their specific chain routing, which includes the roller. When you remove the roller, you have shortened the routing, resulting in slack on the bottom side. Time to remove links.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> To your number 2 point: There is an adjustment on your derailleur called the B-Tension screw. It removes slack from the bottom side of the chain (after you have the appropriate chain length, not to overcome bad chain length). Rollers don't add tension. additionally, the tension on your drive train is on the seat stay side. The B Tension setting accounts for all of the slack on bottom side of the drive train.
> 
> Forbidden didn't make a bad chain measurement. They provide a measurement for their specific chain routing, which includes the roller. When you remove the roller, you have shortened the routing, resulting in slack on the bottom side. Time to remove links.


The only challenge is Forbidden recommends to use as little B tension as possible, essentially roll it back as much as possible (to allow the suspension to do what it was intended to). 
My guess is a link will have to come out. The only item removed was the roller, and the tension is now slacker, so I'm assuming even though it was likely not that much, the roller was applying tension/pressure to the chain, which would also explain why those rollers wear out so much. I hope the Cascade unit works as promised, but I've also read of others on this thread not using the roller at all... If the roller can be totally eliminated, and you get zero dropped chains, this would be great!


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

dustybarrels said:


> The only challenge is Forbidden recommends to use as little B tension as possible, essentially roll it back as much as possible (to allow the suspension to do what it was intended to).
> My guess is a link will have to come out. The only item removed was the roller, and the tension is now slacker, so I'm assuming even though it was likely not that much, the roller was applying tension/pressure to the chain, which would also explain why those rollers wear out so much. I hope the Cascade unit works as promised, but I've also read of others on this thread not using the roller at all... If the roller can be totally eliminated, and you get zero dropped chains, this would be great!


I also forgot to think about the fact the roller provides additional wrap for the chain, and adds more contact on the chainring, which will even the wear over time. This high pivot is making things a bit complicated. The E13 guide may be the way to go.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

dustybarrels said:


> Cascade chain guide purchased and received (for 32T). Nice looking piece of kit with a sweet little cloth bag for the two screws. Removing the E13 guide, here are some thoughts that came to mind:


You don't have any photos of the guide installed do you? I haven't been able to find any.


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## nilswalk (Nov 26, 2014)

Oh hai can I join your club?










First ride today! Wasn't quite sure what to expect but holy crap, the hype about the high pivot is real. That's a Lyrik 150 Ultimate on the front and it actual feels like it's the weak link in the suspension. Just ridiculous.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

nilswalk said:


> Oh hai can I join your club?
> 
> View attachment 1959899
> 
> ...


Wait until you try a coil shock, best improvement I've made to my Druid. I have a lyrik too and always felt the DPX2 wasn't keeping up with it, and I had some issues with it, so I switched to a super deluxe coil.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nilswalk said:


> Oh hai can I join your club?
> 
> View attachment 1959899
> 
> ...


Congrats and welcome! One really good thing about owning a Druid is that you are instantly surrounded by some of the most experienced, knowledgeable and cooperative riders and wrenchers around.

I wish we had our own sub forum though. It’s tough trying to find info in this mega thread, when you need it.

PS - I’m running a 36 GRIP2 Luftkappe, and an 11-6 on mine. I would give it time with what you have. Take it slow, especially if you enjoy it as is. There have been some owners (who I haven’t seen in a while) who blew through 4 shocks and then went back to #1 or #2. Avoid the downward spiral into the money pit 😝


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

ALS650L said:


> You don't have any photos of the guide installed do you? I haven't been able to find any.


I’m still curious if this guide differs from the MRP SXg - also a guide without a roller and contactless. I’m sure I’ve seen it mentioned previously on the thread but can’t find it.


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## nilswalk (Nov 26, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> PS - I’m running a 36 GRIP2 Luftkappe, and an 11-6 on mine. I would give it time with what you have. Take it slow, especially if you enjoy it as is. There have been some owners (who I haven’t seen in a while) who blew through 4 shocks and then went back to #1 or #2. Avoid the downward spiral into the money pit 😝


Yeah, this was just ride #1, eyeballed the sag and recommended settings for everything. Didn't bother tweaking any dials at all for the whole ride, the goal was just to start the process. Which was why I'm so shocked how good it felt, I kinda expected to need a lot of tuning. Immediately set a PR on one of my favorite DH segments (that my previous best time was on an Evil Insurgent).


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

@nilswalk When I had the first gen DPX2 on mine I ran it wide open on compression, a few clicks from wide open on rebound, and right around my body weight without gear for psi (185 to 195). I originally had it at 225, according to my sag measurement. I found that to be a little retina detaching.

I liked the DPX2. I only bought the 11-6 because Push was blowing them out.

Good luck and have a blast. My first 6 months with my Druid were some of the most magical times I have had in my life.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

To back Mike up, I was pretty happy with the original shock but then I got a storia and it blew my mind.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> To back Mike up, I was pretty happy with the original shock but then I got a storia and it blew my mind.


Geez. I may have to buy a Storia now 😝


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## nilswalk (Nov 26, 2014)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @nilswalk When I had the first gen DPX2 on mine I ran it wide open on compression, a few clicks from wide open on rebound, and right around my body weight without gear for psi (185 to 195). I originally had it at 225, according to my sag measurement. I found that to be a little retina detaching.


That's basically where I started. I'm 190 out of the shower and I started at 195 psi, wide open compression and 3 clicks of rebound.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

nilswalk said:


> That's basically where I started. I'm 190 out of the shower and I started at 195 psi, wide open compression and 3 clicks of rebound.


There is a video on YT of a guy on VCR Island who said he found nirvana by going down to 155. I tried it. It was surprisingly good. But I alternate riding my Druid and my Honzo. Coming off the Honzo, 155 was too wallowy for me. But the DPX2 did have a pretty wide range for me - 155 to 195.

I never would have replaced it if it hadn’t squeaked incessantly, and had Push not blown out the 11-6 right at the same time.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

dustybarrels said:


> I also forgot to think about the fact the roller provides additional wrap for the chain, and adds more contact on the chainring, which will even the wear over time. This high pivot is making things a bit complicated. The E13 guide may be the way to go.


Yes, that was the point I was going to bring up. Seems many are just foregoing the roller to eliminate some resistance, but the roller is meant to create chainring contact due to the chain-line being altered by the pivot path; ~25% of the ring contacted compared to about ~40% on the standard Druid drivetrain. Seems that in addition to wear, the chain and teeth would be undergoing added stress. That’s the part that has me reticent to try the CC lower. I’d rather replace rollers than chains, rings and risk breaking a chain (speculation).


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I just skimmed it.
> 
> At 185 pounds running an 11-6 with a 425 lb coil, I am less interested. I seem to be right in the wheelhouse for good performance, weight wise running the stock link with my 11-6.
> 
> ...


That’s interesting because I’m about 180 dry. I use a CC link and I find it makes a huge difference with the added travel and progression. Could also be personal preference in addition to the “rider weight math” but I luckily I found it a benefit (it doesn’t help that it’s an expensive part to test and then have to sell if you don’t like it). I also found that my Vorpsrung Secus made a massive difference on my ‘21 Fox 36 which is balanced better with the CC link. In fact, the Secus is hands-down the most important upgrade I have suspension-wise.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> That’s interesting because I’m about 180 dry. I use a CC link and I find it makes a huge difference with the added travel and progression. Could also be personal preference in addition to the “rider weight math” but I luckily I found it a benefit (it doesn’t help that it’s an expensive part to test and then have to sell if you don’t like it). I also found that my Vorpsrung Secus made a massive difference on my ‘21 Fox 36 which is balanced better with the CC link. In fact, the Secus is hands-down the most important upgrade I have suspension-wise.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I’m thinking about a Secus. If I do anything, that’s my next move. I am very content where I am though. No Cascade link and no mullet. The NSMB article did not stoke the fire on either.

But you have 🤨

Just kidding. Lol.

Apart from the Secus possibly, I’m totally good. Adding that Secus would really justify my friends’ nickname of my Druid - the “Rube Goldberg machine”. That may be reason alone to add it. Lmao.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

ALS650L said:


> You don't have any photos of the guide installed do you? I haven't been able to find any.


After realizing I have to mess with the chain again, deal with adjusting B-tension tighter, and losing 1-2 teeth coverage on the chainring, I've decided to return the unit. I finally had my drivetrain and shifting dialed, and that took time...To Cascades's credit they are responsive and do have a return program if the kit is unused. For a normal bike (not high pivot) I would seriously consider their chain guide. I'll deal with a lower roller for the time being. Best improvement so far has been the SS NSB idler.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

dustybarrels said:


> After realizing I have to mess with the chain again, deal with adjusting B-tension tighter, and losing 1-2 teeth coverage on the chainring, I've decided to return the unit. I finally had my drivetrain and shifting dialed, and that took time...To Cascades's credit they are responsive and do have a return program if the kit is unused. For a normal bike (not high pivot) I would seriously consider their chain guide. I'll deal with a lower roller for the time being. Best improvement so far has been the SS NSB idler.


I also ordered one of these cascade guides. and did foresee the issue of less chain wrap. 
I bought a new chainring also. Time will tell if this route wear out parts quicker. 

I was intrigued with the thought of getting rid of that roller! And will post some photos of it installed once I receive it! 

Its a shame, I had just finally got my Druid working well again, and went for an amazing ride on it the other day! And then we got a big dump of snow. So I think thats it, till the spring time.

Testing the cascade chain guide will have to wait. 

Time to look over the bike! service the pivot bearings, service the CK BB/headset AXS reverb and send my suspension in to get serviced, will probably look into getting my EXT Era updated to v2 ( I’ve been so pleased with it, I don’t know how things can get better) 


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

dustybarrels said:


> After realizing I have to mess with the chain again, deal with adjusting B-tension tighter, and losing 1-2 teeth coverage on the chainring, I've decided to return the unit. I finally had my drivetrain and shifting dialed, and that took time...To Cascades's credit they are responsive and do have a return program if the kit is unused. For a normal bike (not high pivot) I would seriously consider their chain guide. I'll deal with a lower roller for the time being. Best improvement so far has been the SS NSB idler.


Over the winter I am going to play around with using a jockey wheel in place of the e13 roller. It will certainly help with friction, but still the biggest gains will be improving myself rather than the bike.

Has anyone else noticed that their chain ting barely wears? Mine has about 600 miles on it and none of the finish is worn off. I understand the angle of the chain is constant, but I'm still surprised to see no worn off finish.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ALS650L said:


> Over the winter I am going to play around with using a jockey wheel in place of the e13 roller. It will certainly help with friction, but still the biggest gains will be improving myself rather than the bike.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed that their chain ting barely wears? Mine has about 600 miles on it and none of the finish is worn off. I understand the angle of the chain is constant, but I'm still surprised to see no worn off finish.


I noticed the same. I took one off and replaced it, and it looked literally brand new. This has about a half season on it:









Compare that to my idler:


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ALS650L said:


> Over the winter I am going to play around with using a jockey wheel in place of the e13 roller. It will certainly help with friction, but still the biggest gains will be improving myself rather than the bike.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed that their chain ting barely wears? Mine has about 600 miles on it and none of the finish is worn off. I understand the angle of the chain is constant, but I'm still surprised to see no worn off finish.


Same for me. It’s the idler pulleys that I go through. Chainring, not so much.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I noticed the same. I took one off and replaced it, and it looked literally brand new. This has about a half season on it:
> View attachment 1960045
> 
> 
> ...


Holy crap, that idler! Mine was pretty bad too, but not that bad. *still waiting for the SS Idler… or I’ll just get a Jank

This also conjured into my thoughts recently about the Jekyll 1 thinking that the idler would likely endure less wear based on it’s relatively more “relaxed” design.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> There is a video on YT of a guy on VCR Island who said he found nirvana by going down to 155. I tried it. It was surprisingly good. But I alternate riding my Druid and my Honzo. Coming off the Honzo, 155 was too wallowy for me. But the DPX2 did have a pretty wide range for me - 155 to 195.
> 
> I never would have replaced it if it hadn’t squeaked incessantly, and had Push not blown out the 11-6 right at the same time.


Damn- I missed that sale. How cheap were the PUSH shocks? Were they updating them or something?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I’m thinking about a Secus. If I do anything, that’s my next move. I am very content where I am though. No Cascade link and no mullet. The NSMB article did not stoke the fire on either.
> 
> But you have
> 
> ...


I’d say go for it with the Secus. I found it to be a big difference. My friend test rode my bike and bought one that same day as well. I do love that it is non-destructive way to get a more coil-like spring curve and move the progression later in the travel (*getting more effective travel out of the fork before bottom out). Supple top, mid-support is awesome.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

damn you guys now I want a secus


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> damn you guys now I want a secus


I think I am on the Secus train.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

dustybarrels said:


> After realizing I have to mess with the chain again, deal with adjusting B-tension tighter, and losing 1-2 teeth coverage on the chainring, I've decided to return the unit. I finally had my drivetrain and shifting dialed, and that took time...To Cascades's credit they are responsive and do have a return program if the kit is unused. For a normal bike (not high pivot) I would seriously consider their chain guide. I'll deal with a lower roller for the time being. Best improvement so far has been the SS NSB idler.


Ok, after all this recent chatter about the Druid’s lower chain guide/tension system with the lower roller, I did a little test today. I had been using the MRP SXg 2-bolt lower guide since April. The SXg is truly frictionless as it does not make any contact with the chain when pedaling. I switched back to the e13 lower rolller setup today and went on a ride just to satisfy my curiosity. In short, in terms of friction or perceived increased pedaling effort, I cannot tell any difference between the MRP and the e13 setup. They both feel same to me, BUT the one meaningful difference (at least to me) is that I always have to engage the clutch on the MRP guide when doing more herky jerky descents, whereas with the e13 system, I never have to engage the clutch ever…chain retention and noise level when descending are excellent. The MRP provides also excellent chain retention, but the clutch has to be on, otherwise rear end business is super noisy and occasionally there will be a split second hang-up/stalling of the chain on very rough descents. I think for now I am going to keep the factory e13 lower guide on my Druid, as not having to worry about the clutch engagement is meaningful to me and my preference is to ride with clutch open whenever possible.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

meeeeep said:


> damn you guys now I want a secus


I cannot speak to the Secus, but I did convert my RS Pike on another bike to the Smashpot coil system with hydraulic bottom out. The performance gains were incredible and completely transformed the Pike from mediocre to excellent suspension fork everywhere…great small bump sensitivity and compliance, much improved mid stroke support and truly bottomless feel for bigger jumps and drops due to the adjustable hydraulic bottom out in the Smashpot and all these big improvements despite the existing crappy RT3 damper in that Pike (2018 model). The Pike gained a pound of weight in that process, but was totally worth it. I am still planning on moving the Smashpot over to my 2019 Fox 36 (GRIP2) that is currently dormant. Already have the needed parts…just need to do it, I am hoping before New Years. Anyway, highly recommended!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

fizzywater said:


> I cannot speak to the Secus, but I did convert my RS Pike on another bike to the Smashpot coil system with hydraulic bottom out. The performance gains were incredible and completely transformed the Pike from mediocre to excellent suspension fork everywhere…great small bump sensitivity and compliance, much improved mid stroke support and truly bottomless feel for bigger jumps and drops due to the adjustable hydraulic bottom out in the Smashpot and all these big improvements despite the existing crappy RT3 damper in that Pike (2018 model). The Pike gained a pound of weight in that process, but was totally worth it. I am still planning on moving the Smashpot over to my 2019 Fox 36 (GRIP2) that is currently dormant. Already have the needed parts…just need to do it, I am hoping before New Years. Anyway, highly recommended!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You guys are killing me.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I just upgraded to an Onyx Vesper rear hub. It feels very different to a conventional hub and I love it. A secus or luftkappe is going to have to wait.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I’d say go for it with the Secus. I found it to be a big difference. My friend test rode my bike and bought one that same day as well. I do love that it is non-destructive way to get a more coil-like spring curve and move the progression later in the travel (*getting more effective travel out of the fork before bottom out). Supple top, mid-support is awesome.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I spent some time wading through the Secus thread. Lots of great contributions from you and others. Clearly you know your stuff. Thanks.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

fizzywater said:


> I cannot speak to the Secus, but I did convert my RS Pike on another bike to the Smashpot coil system with hydraulic bottom out. The performance gains were incredible and completely transformed the Pike from mediocre to excellent suspension fork everywhere…great small bump sensitivity and compliance, much improved mid stroke support and truly bottomless feel for bigger jumps and drops due to the adjustable hydraulic bottom out in the Smashpot and all these big improvements despite the existing crappy RT3 damper in that Pike (2018 model). The Pike gained a pound of weight in that process, but was totally worth it. I am still planning on moving the Smashpot over to my 2019 Fox 36 (GRIP2) that is currently dormant. Already have the needed parts…just need to do it, I am hoping before New Years. Anyway, highly recommended!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It’s not the weight I am worried about, but the potential inability to land on the correct weight spring. I’m on my second spring on my 11-6 and still don’t know if I got it right. In fact, I may be in between a 425 and a 450. Not regretting the 11-6, but I do appreciate air sprung suspension for its ease of adjustability and fine tuning.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It’s not the weight I am worried about, but the potential inability to land on the correct weight spring. I’m on my second spring on my 11-6 and still don’t know if I got it right. In fact, I may be in between a 425 and a 450. Not regretting the 11-6, but I do appreciate air sprung suspension for its ease of adjustability and fine tuning.


I had the same experience with my Push. I ended going through a few spring weights and then I found this adjustable spring: https://sprindex.com/
Review here:




Seems to be a great way to adjust to changing rider weights (diet and gear changes) or just to adjust to terrain/climbing on-the-fly. Love that it is in 5lb increments. I have one on order.











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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I had the same experience with my Push. I ended going through a few spring weights and then I found this adjustable spring: https://sprindex.com/
> Review here:
> 
> 
> ...


I was led to understand this was not compatible with my last generation 11-6. Maybe that’s incorrect.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I was led to understand this was not compatible with my last generation 11-6. Maybe that’s incorrect.


Ahhh, may be the case. Have to check with Sprindex.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It’s not the weight I am worried about, but the potential inability to land on the correct weight spring. I’m on my second spring on my 11-6 and still don’t know if I got it right. In fact, I may be in between a 425 and a 450. Not regretting the 11-6, but I do appreciate air sprung suspension for its ease of adjustability and fine tuning.


Vorsprung has this very well covered I think and offers coil springs for the Smashpot in 5 pound increments from 30 lbs/inch all the way to 80 lbs/inch. In my case, I originally started with the 40 spring, which felt a bit too firm at times, so went down to the 35 spring and found suspension nirvana on my Pike. I know I may be going on limb here, but the Smashpot system is fantastic and by far the best suspension upgrade I ever made…no other suspension upgrade or mod I ever did (front or rear) comes even close.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

fizzywater said:


> Vorsprung has this very well covered I think and offers coil springs for the Smashpot in 5 pound increments from 30 lbs/inch all the way to 80 lbs/inch. In my case, I originally started with the 40 spring, which felt a bit too firm at times, so went down to the 35 spring and found suspension nirvana on my Pike. I know I may be going on limb here, but the Smashpot system is fantastic and by far the best suspension upgrade I ever made…no other suspension upgrade or mod I ever did (front or rear) comes even close.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, I haven’t tried the Smashpot but did use the Push ACS3. I’d be curious to see a performance comparison between Secus and Smashpot. I mainly chose Secus for non-destructive aspect, adjustability, novelty and the “advanced” linear curve with air progression near bottom out.


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## nilswalk (Nov 26, 2014)

I did a Smashpot on my e-bike (Turbo Levo) and it's brilliant. I will probably just accept the weight penalty on the Druid and throw one in the Lyrik. It's not just the performance, I love having so much less maintenance and never worrying about what the pressure is regardless of what the temps are or what altitude I'm at. Living up in the mountains and riding trails that are +/- 3000 ft starting altitude it's actually A Thing.

Probably had my final (and 2nd only) ride on the Druid for the year, unless I go on a road trip somewhere. Snow inbound tomorrow and then more on the weekend so biking season is over.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

nilswalk said:


> I did a Smashpot on my e-bike (Turbo Levo) and it's brilliant. I will probably just accept the weight penalty on the Druid and throw one in the Lyrik. It's not just the performance, I love having so much less maintenance and never worrying about what the pressure is regardless of what the temps are or what altitude I'm at. Living up in the mountains and riding trails that are +/- 3000 ft starting altitude it's actually A Thing.
> 
> Probably had my final (and 2nd only) ride on the Druid for the year, unless I go on a road trip somewhere. Snow inbound tomorrow and then more on the weekend so biking season is over.


Excellent product, I’m sure. I’ve had a Luftkappe and now the Secus. Both excellent. For what it’s worth, I haven’t really needed to add air or do any maintenance on the Secus for the last year. The air keeps for a long time on my fork and I’m at 3600ft in central Oregon. I checked about a month ago and it was still close to where it should have been. I just bought a seal kit do do the annual overhaul when I service my lowers in the winter. It’s been plug-n-play for me.


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## nilswalk (Nov 26, 2014)

Energ8t said:


> Excellent product, I’m sure. I’ve had a Luftkappe and now the Secus. Both excellent. For what it’s worth, I haven’t really needed to add air or do any maintenance on the Secus for the last year. The air keeps for a long time on my fork and I’m at 3600ft in central Oregon. I checked about a month ago and it was still close to where it should have been. I just bought a seal kit do do the annual overhaul when I service my lowers in the winter. It’s been plug-n-play for me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Oh it's not that forks leak - it's that when your rides vary in altitude and temperature quite a bit the need to vary pressure crops up. As temp goes up and down, so does pressure (PV =~ T). Depending on the season up here a single day can go from shorts and t-shirts to "where's my down puffy?"


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

nilswalk said:


> Oh it's not that forks leak - it's that when your rides vary in altitude and temperature quite a bit the need to vary pressure crops up. As temp goes up and down, so does pressure (PV =~ T). Depending on the season up here a single day can go from shorts and t-shirts to "where's my down puffy?"


Yeah, I gotcha. I’m aware of the temp effects on pressure. It’s still been negligible maintenance from my own experience. Not too different from the stock DPX2. Something people can weigh when they consider the options of course. The Smashpot is simpler overall (If you don’t mind about killing the warranty on the fork and irreversibly making it coil only.) Not sarcasm, just a reality. I coiled my last fork and it wasn’t a big deal to sell that way with the bike, but it could be a hassle. 


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Temperature changes during spring and summer are pretty volatile in Vancouver so I'm constantly checking fork pressure. For some reason pressures are pretty steady in winter.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I’m still on the fence. Keep the status quo (factory GRIP2 36 with Luftkappe, 11-6 on the rear), or go Secus or Smashpot.

I’m very happy with the status quo, and I’m very picky. I hate screwing with things trying to eek out another 3% performance. It ends up costing me lots, financially and time-wise, and sometimes amounts to next to nothing in terms of a performance gain. That said, as usual, I remain intrigued…


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I’m still on the fence. Keep the status quo (factory GRIP2 36 with Luftkappe, 11-6 on the rear), or go Secus or Smashpot.
> 
> I’m very happy with the status quo, and I’m very picky. I hate screwing with things trying to eek out another 3% performance. It ends up costing me lots, financially and time-wise, and sometimes amounts to next to nothing in terms of a performance gain. That said, as usual, I remain intrigued…


Secus was like at least 50% performance gain for me. My friend shares those sentiments. I’d keep Secus over the Push coil. It’s not a mere 3% kind of gain. I’m blasting rough trails so much better with more control and way less fatigue. But that’s my experience.

If you’re interested in learning more, there’s a forum: Vorsprung Secus external add-on air spring

I spotted one on eBay…

I know, I know, I’m not helping. LOL


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Anyone had a cable housing retainer bolt seize in the frame? I was replacing my broken XT shifter (2nd one) and the bolt turns easy, then stiffens, the easy, then stiffens, but does not come out. Seems seized, but like the insert in the frame broke free but won’t let the bolt loose. Seems like a frame warranty issue (?)
Seems like I might have to dremel the plastic retainer plate off the frame so I can get my cable out. PITA











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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I had the accessory mount bolts come out kind of hard, but they did not strip. I think in my case, a lot of sweat ends up there. I had greased all the other bolts but I hadn't touched the accessory mount bolts.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> Secus was like at least 50% performance gain for me. My friend shares those sentiments. I’d keep Secus over the Push coil. It’s not a mere 3% kind of gain. I’m blasting rough trails so much better with more control and way less fatigue. But that’s my experience.
> 
> If you’re interested in learning more, there’s a forum: Vorsprung Secus external add-on air spring
> 
> ...


You think I will see a 50% performance gain over my Factory GRIP2 Luftkappe set up? If so, all I have to say is wow. I can’t imagine it getting much better than it is, let alone 50% better.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> You think I will see a 50% performance gain over my Factory GRIP2 Luftkappe set up? If so, all I have to say is wow. I can’t imagine it getting much better than it is, let alone 50% better.


I can’t give an exact percentage increase over Luftkappe, just my experience. 

I used to have a Luftkappe on my previous bike. It is a great add on, but for me primarily the midstroke support of the Secus is the game changer for air forks, with the more supple top end being nearly as important. The other selling points on the Vorsprung site are important as well.

I couldn’t get my Druid XT 2021 Fox 36 Performance Elite to feel right; either too soft with brake dive, or too harsh. Once I added the Secus, it finally felt right to me.


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

The cascade guide showed up and got it fitted. It seems like it will work well! 
it feels like there is less resistance, and I didn’t have to shorten my chain.

I found it interesting that some of you guys say that you haven’t gone through chainrings. 
This is the second chainring I have used on this bike. It has a bit of life left in it, but you can see it is developing a lot of play. 



















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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Kmag76 said:


> The cascade guide showed up and got it fitted. It seems like it will work well!
> it feels like there is less resistance, and I didn’t have to shorten my chain.
> 
> I found it interesting that some of you guys say that you haven’t gone through chainrings.
> ...


What brakes are you running? Surprised to see 2 piston brakes on this kind of bike


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

habaden said:


> What brakes are you running? Surprised to see 2 piston brakes on this kind of bike


They are Braking Incas 2.0
Yes, 26mm 2 piston. They do have more braking area than codes. 


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

Do you guys think we could be seeing a 2nd gen Druid in 2022?

What would you guys like to see changed/updated?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

habaden said:


> Do you guys think we could be seeing a 2nd gen Druid in 2022?
> 
> What would you guys like to see changed/updated?



Hopefully, just new colors, making the stainless steel idler come standard. Maybe making it lighter? I'm hoping there's a trend of companies only releasing the next gen when they actually have something new and exciting to offer. The aggressive trail bike geo is perfect. And now that the Dreadnought is out, there's no need to make the Druid longer/slacker.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

habaden said:


> Do you guys think we could be seeing a 2nd gen Druid in 2022?
> 
> What would you guys like to see changed/updated?


Nice question. I would like to see +20 to 25mm increase in reach (I'm on a size L), maybe 1/2 degree steeper STA, SS idler standard, Burgtech axle standard, something to improve lateral stiffness in rear (not moving to 157 unless that helps the chain line massively), and dare I say make more of a distinction between Druid and Dread, having the Druid a 140/150F - 125R suspension or just keep the #s the same, and some additional tasteful frame colors. As the Druid stands, it's in the upper range of a gnarly trail bike, bordering much more on enduro, so increasing rear travel kinda seems outside the intent of a shorter travel model. Yes, I am kind of splitting hairs...I like the bike a lot, and I'm already two years in.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

dustybarrels said:


> Nice question. I would like to see +20 to 25mm increase in reach (I'm on a size L), maybe 1/2 degree steeper STA, SS idler standard, Burgtech axle standard, something to improve lateral stiffness in rear (not moving to 157 unless that helps the chain line massively), and dare I say make more of a distinction between Druid and Dread, having the Druid a 140/150F - 125R suspension or just keep the #s the same, and some additional tasteful frame colors. As the Druid stands, it's in the upper range of a gnarly trail bike, bordering much more on enduro, so increasing rear travel kinda seems outside the intent of a shorter travel model. Yes, I am kind of splitting hairs...I like the bike a lot, and I'm already two years in.


Agreed on the increase in reach. Ever since I picked up my Range I've wanted to pick up a druid to replace my SB130LR because I like the high pivot feel. The one thing holding me back from getting a druid is it's 15mm shorter (size M) than my SB130. Which means after I bump the fork to 160 and mess around with the ziggy link I'd probably be below 440mm reach which is bordering on the shorter side for me. I'd still love to try the numbers, just don't think I'll buy a new one.

Always on the hunt for a Medium frame if anyone's selling


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Has anyone ever experienced creaking come from idler pulley, or near it, when pedaling? It’s not present at the start of the ride, but gets progressively worse. Had the bottom bracket overhauled and the idler pulley cleaned and greased…


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Has anyone ever experienced creaking come from idler pulley, or near it, when pedaling? It’s not present at the start of the ride, but gets progressively worse. Had the bottom bracket overhauled and the idler pulley cleaned and greased…


What idler are you running? 


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Has anyone ever experienced creaking come from idler pulley, or near it, when pedaling? It’s not present at the start of the ride, but gets progressively worse. Had the bottom bracket overhauled and the idler pulley cleaned and greased…


I had that same problem, and it turned out it was the axle. It broke, I replaced it, and the problem as been gone since.
I think the noise was transmitted up the chain under power.


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Has anyone ever experienced creaking come from idler pulley, or near it, when pedaling? It’s not present at the start of the ride, but gets progressively worse. Had the bottom bracket overhauled and the idler pulley cleaned and greased…


I’ve just come on here to ask the same question! Just installed the new v2 linkage forbidden sent me and the ziggy, serviced all the pivot bearings, torqued everything up etc etc now after 2 rides I’ve got some fairly bad creaking when bouncing on the bike….any ideas welcome 🤘


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> What idler are you running?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Jank Components idler. I need to see if I still have the stock idler so I can test it out.




armyofevilrobots said:


> I had that same problem, and it turned out it was the axle. It broke, I replaced it, and the problem as been gone since.
> I think the noise was transmitted up the chain under power.


I didn't even think to check the axle. Was it sheered off?


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

I had this same problem from the Jank after a while. I took it all apart, green loctite the bearing and lubed the hell out of everything else, but the creek came back eventually…


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## JB1- (Nov 18, 2021)

Sorted it now, panic over!! I stripped it down and realised that the new linkage bolts they sent with the v2 linkage were slightly bigger in diameter than the original titanium ones so just installed them. My fault for not checking in the first place but just assumed they sent the linkage out as a kit and could just use my existing hardware. Kinda lucky i checked I think because something wasn’t quite right and the rear triangle felt really stiff, so glad I only rode it for a short period and didn’t hit any big booters


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

RadicalPugilism said:


> The Jank Components idler. I need to see if I still have the stock idler so I can test it out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you can find the stock idler, try it. 

I’m running the jank idler as well, and it seems the bearing moves inboard in the carrier, pushing it into the inner forbidden washer/spacer. (Causing the grinding/creaking)
As @johnsogr also says, 
I’ve green loctited it and pressed the bearing back out. But the problem comes back eventually 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

habaden said:


> Always on the hunt for a Medium frame if anyone's selling


Don’t have a whole frame I can offer, but have a medium Druid front triangle in black posted for sale on pinkbike.



https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/3191390/




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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Kmag76 said:


> If you can find the stock idler, try it.
> 
> I’m running the jank idler as well, and it seems the bearing moves inboard in the carrier, pushing it into the inner forbidden washer/spacer. (Causing the grinding/creaking)
> As @johnsogr also says,
> ...


Swapped in the stock idler and confirmed it was an issue with the Jank idler. @JankyEric was super responsive and I'm looking forward to riding the updated idler in Santa Cruz and Sedona in the coming weeks!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Swapped in the stock idler and confirmed it was an issue with the Jank idler. @JankyEric was super responsive and I'm looking forward to riding the updated idler in Santa Cruz and Sedona in the coming weeks!


Updated Jank idler? Was thinking about getting one. Are they all problematic?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Energ8t said:


> Updated Jank idler? Was thinking about getting one. Are they all problematic?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sure hope not. I just ordered one and it got shipped out today. Should have it in a few days and will provide update after the swap and a few rides under my belt with the Janke SS idler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Energ8t said:


> Updated Jank idler? Was thinking about getting one. Are they all problematic?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Oddly enough, I had hadn't noticed any complaints until I had the creaking issue. 

I still wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Jank idler with the update.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

fizzywater said:


> Sure hope not. I just ordered one and it got shipped out today. Should have it in a few days and will provide update after the swap and a few rides under my belt with the Janke SS idler.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Eric mentioned that the new idlers were being sent out yesterday. You should be good to go!


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Hero dirt, yesterday! Yes, I know...I make weird faces when I fly.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

fizzywater said:


> Don’t have a whole frame I can offer, but have a medium Druid front triangle in black posted for sale on pinkbike.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If I had a way of getting a rear triangle I’d take you up on that


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> The Jank Components idler. I need to see if I still have the stock idler so I can test it out.
> 
> I didn't even think to check the axle. Was it sheered off?


I think the crack was propagating. It sheared off after a couple months of creaking.


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## Justin.V (Jun 21, 2018)

Hey guys, has anyone tried running a 160mm fork with a offset bushing in the shock to slacken the head angle even further and to bring the BB back down to similar height to if you were running a 150mm fork. Thanks


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Justin.V said:


> Hey guys, has anyone tried running a 160mm fork with a offset bushing in the shock to slacken the head angle even further and to bring the BB back down to similar height to if you were running a 150mm fork. Thanks


Why not use an Angleset or similar? Personally, I wouldn't want to add a quicker wearing item to the suspension.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Agreed, when I had the bike, I had a 160 fork with -1 degree WolfTooth angleset 


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

johnsogr said:


> Agreed, when I had the bike, I had a 160 fork with -1 degree WolfTooth angleset
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed and did exact same thing going with the -1 degree Wolftooth angleset. At same time raised fork from 150 to 160 and ended up basically with same bb height and seat angle as before, but with desired slacker head angle.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

SS idlers are back in stock on Forbidden site.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Kicking off the first day of winter, by getting my booster.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Forecast: Chunky with a chance of pucker. Squeezed in one last ride before the coming storm.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Some pre XMas shinanigans with MTBBill.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)




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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

Is anyone running a 35mm stem with minimal spacers below? Just trying to get a sense of clearance / stack height as I wait for things to arrive... Seems like stem might contact, but HS top cap might provide enough height?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

home_piece said:


> Is anyone running a 35mm stem with minimal spacers below? Just trying to get a sense of clearance / stack height as I wait for things to arrive... Seems like stem might contact, but HS top cap might provide enough height?


I am not clear what the concern is, but I am running a 35mm diameter stem (and 35mm length) with only a 5mm spacer underneath and works without issues.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

home_piece said:


> Is anyone running a 35mm stem with minimal spacers below? Just trying to get a sense of clearance / stack height as I wait for things to arrive... Seems like stem might contact, but HS top cap might provide enough height?


I am using a Cane Creek Slamset, basically zero stack, headset with a single 5mm spacer on mine, but with a 50mm stem. I have no clearance issue between the stem and head tube. I believe a 35mm stem would work too.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

home_piece said:


> Is anyone running a 35mm stem with minimal spacers below? Just trying to get a sense of clearance / stack height as I wait for things to arrive... Seems like stem might contact, but HS top cap might provide enough height?


Yep. Have run 35mm stem and stem as low as it goes. Running 5mm spacer now but had no issues.

The top tube has a hell of an angle to get the standover so nothing to worry about!


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

home_piece said:


> Is anyone running a 35mm stem with minimal spacers below? Just trying to get a sense of clearance / stack height as I wait for things to arrive... Seems like stem might contact, but HS top cap might provide enough height?


The answer to this question is 100% dependent on 2 things:
1) stem design. A deity copperhead stem, for example, has a very short steerer tube clamping interface, much less than the bar diameer. This forces extra material to hang below/above the lowest part of said clamp. A WR1 stem is completely flush from front to back. 
2) headset stack height. Different headsets will give different stack in creases to the stem height.


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## meta4x (Jul 21, 2010)

Hey there fellow MTBR members and Druid fans. I took the late adopters route with this frame, but am happy to have waited - reading all 200 pages of this post took me about 4 days prior to ordering, and I am thankful to all the early adopters who've shared their experiences on here - it helped a lot knowing what to expect.

Basically I wanted a Druid when they came out as the overall design of a linkage driven SP is my preferred set up and I see the high pivot I as a major plus for the type of terrain I ride. My two all time favorite frames over my 30 years MTBing were a Commencal Meta 4x and more recently an Evil Insurgent 27.5.

I was a little nervous on the sizing (medium) as I was coming off a large Transition Sentinel carbon with a Cascade link, but that bike was too long for me and I was struggling anywhere other than in a straight line. After comparing the medium Druid to the medium Insurgent I realised that the geometry was super close and was more comfortable with the decision. For reference I am 175cm / 5'7".

Seriously, getting a frame these days is like getting blood from a stone, but I wanted a new frame only to bolt my parts onto, rather than a complete bike. I was looking at a second generation Sentinel in medium (available June 2022), and a S-Works Stumpy Evo (not available at all). The Druid was available, in country and was shipped to my LBS Bikeaholic Queenstown within two days of my order being placed. The build kit is straight off the Transition, and everything was a direct swap with the exception of swapping out an oval ring for a round 30T unit, along with some aftermarket parts I'd slapped on the Transition - Chromag Ranger stem 40mm, Chromag Cutlass bar 35mm rise and 760mm wide, Fabric saddle and the M7 Enve wheel set.

My first ride confirmed I'd made the right choice! We're spoiled for riding here in Queenstown and our little XC park known as 7 Mile is a compact tight and twisty network with some more open flow trails for some variety - perfect for a shakedown ride. I was literally faster up and down on the Druid and was super stoked on the decision taken. If the bike has one short coming it's park style high speed stuff - but I'm old and prefer slower technical riding in any case. The information in this post and on the Forbidden web site was spot on for shock set up. Now about ten rides in and I'm loving it. I'm considering a Cascade link but not entirely sure the frame needs it - the 'sporty' feel of the stock set up is really impressive. Perhaps a Dreadnought is in my future if cash allows for the big mountain riding the region has to offer.

Anyway, here are some photos of the steed I've named *Mogh Roith*, "slave of the wheel" (after the Irish druid who could grow to enormous size, his breath caused storms and turned men to stone) and some shots of what we're lucky enough to call home in Queenstown, New Zealand.

Peace out.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

meta4x said:


> View attachment 1964217
> 
> 
> Hey there fellow MTBR members and Druid fans. I took the late adopters route with this frame, but am happy to have waited - reading all 200 pages of this post took me about 4 days prior to ordering, and I am thankful to all the early adopters who've shared their experiences on here - it helped a lot knowing what to expect.
> ...


Wow, beautiful setting and terrain. Would love to ride there one day if I ever make it to New Zealand. Welcome to the Druid club! It is truly an awesome bike and hard to beat for trail bike and light AM duty or one bike quiver. Congrats. I just installed the Cascade link on mine, but no riding yet as we got **** tons of snow over the last 2 weeks and now starting to melt, so hoping to get a ride in come weekend.


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## meta4x (Jul 21, 2010)

fizzywater said:


> Wow, beautiful setting and terrain. Would love to ride there one day if I ever make it to New Zealand. Welcome to the Druid club! It is truly an awesome bike and hard to beat for trail bike and light AM duty or one bike quiver. Congrats. I just installed the Cascade link on mine, but no riding yet as we got **** tons of snow over the last 2 weeks and now starting to melt, so hoping to get a ride in come weekend.


Thank you. If you find yourself here you will not regret it and, yeah I am stoked on the ride. Spring up north is a ways off, but keen to hear your (or anyone else's) impressions on the cc link.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meta4x said:


> View attachment 1964217
> 
> 
> Hey there fellow MTBR members and Druid fans. I took the late adopters route with this frame, but am happy to have waited - reading all 200 pages of this post took me about 4 days prior to ordering, and I am thankful to all the early adopters who've shared their experiences on here - it helped a lot knowing what to expect.
> ...


Awesome. Welcome to the club.

3 quick middle of the night comments:

1. Nice job on the build 🤘
2. Contact Forbidden and get the free fender 👍
3. That bike is not Paul Ashton approved 😝


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## meta4x (Jul 21, 2010)

Ha ha yeah Paul wasn't too impressed with the frame, which surprised me as it went counter to just about every other review of the bike I can find. His comment about increasing the amount of travel on the same shock stroke is interesting considering what cascade do. The local Forbidden distributor has my name down for the updated fender.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meta4x said:


> Ha ha yeah Paul wasn't too impressed with the frame, which surprised me as it went counter to just about every other review of the bike I can find. His comment about increasing the amount of travel on the same shock stroke is interesting considering what cascade do. The local Forbidden distributor has my name down for the updated fender.


I was talking about the Enves! Remember the PB Enve debacle? I think that may have been the last time we heard from Paul as a PB editor.

J/k though. Beautiful build! Congrats.


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## meta4x (Jul 21, 2010)

Ah yes, I was getting my Paul's mixed up. Never had any problem with my wheels, but like I said - I'm old. They'll outlast me 10/10.


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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

We've got a downhill team now! Apparently running custom links on the Dread before releasing a DH bike this year. I would love to match up their link to the CC link and see the similarities.









Forbidden Synthesis Team Signs Connor Fearon and Expands Into World Cup Downhill in 2022


Forbidden Bike Co. is pleased to announce the arrival of Australian downhill racer, Connor Fearon to the factory Forbidden Synthesis team. In partnership with; Crankbrothers, SRAM, RockShox, Burgtec, RideWrap, Maxxis, Fizik, Maxima, Cush Core and Chris King, the team also welcomes Alex Storr...




www.vitalmtb.com


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## h0ffentlich (Dec 18, 2020)

Hi,
today the thread insert for the fender screws came loose on my druid. Wanted to install the fender and was wondering why it wouldnt tighten. Was a pain in the ass to even get the screw back out. Took like half an hour.... Was almost into cutting my all new "biggerFender" cause it wont come out. 

Anyone had that issue so far? Can t tighten my fender now anymore, insert spinning... Sucks !


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

h0ffentlich said:


> Hi,
> today the thread insert for the fender screws came loose on my druid. Wanted to install the fender and was wondering why it wouldnt tighten. Was a pain in the ass to even get the screw back out. Took like half an hour....
> Anyone had that issue so far? Can t tighten my fender now anymore, insert spinning... it is all loose inside the frame. Sucks


Verflixt nochmal. Yikes,sounds like you’ll have to contact Forbidden for this issue.


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## toth.alex.j (Jan 7, 2022)

I've seen things here and there earlier in the forum but wanted to know what the consensus is on rear shock/cascade link combo. I have a DPX2 (stock), Float X2 from a RipMo V1, and want to give a coil a try but clearance seems to be an issue with the cascade link. Anyone have some recommendations. I've heard phenomenal things about EXT Storia and it looks like Pinner Machine Works in Whistler makes a spacer/adapter for the druid but there is little info on their website.

The idea behind the coil and link was because I intend on riding Whistler a few times this coming summer after feeling a little under gunned in 2020. I also just like testing and tinkering different configurations.

Bike: 2019 Druid Size Large. I weigh like 200lbs with gear. Bike has GX, a 150mm Fox 36, WeAreOnes with Hydras.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

fizzywater said:


> Verflixt nochmal. Yikes,sounds like you’ll have to contact Forbidden for this issue.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had this problem with my cable retaining “plate” under the top tube. The screw seized up in the insert from sweat, I assume. The insert came loose from the frame and I have yet to get find the time to Dremel the plastic plate off and find a way to drill the bolt out or grab the insert so I can loosen the bolt.

Forbidden sent me a new insert and cable “plate” for free. I would definitely let Forbidden know. I think there is something about the inserts not being well enough fixed to the frame and they are coming loose way to easy on some bikes. I’d am now extra careful to not over-tighten, not that they were, and to liberally grease the bolts. 


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

toth.alex.j said:


> I've seen things here and there earlier in the forum but wanted to know what the consensus is on rear shock/cascade link combo. I have a DPX2 (stock), Float X2 from a RipMo V1, and want to give a coil a try but clearance seems to be an issue with the cascade link. Anyone have some recommendations. I've heard phenomenal things about EXT Storia and it looks like Pinner Machine Works in Whistler makes a spacer/adapter for the druid but there is little info on their website.
> 
> The idea behind the coil and link was because I intend on riding Whistler a few times this coming summer after feeling a little under gunned in 2020. I also just like testing and tinkering different configurations.
> 
> Bike: 2019 Druid Size Large. I weigh like 200lbs with gear. Bike has GX, a 150mm Fox 36, WeAreOnes with Hydras.


Just looked it up. Very interesting part. LOVE these small shop solutions.

If you compare images of the Pinner equipped Storia to the stock version, the spacer moves the spring to the opposite end of the shock thus eliminating the contact points of the spring with the Cascade link. Smart.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Energ8t said:


> Just looked it up. Very interesting part. LOVE these small shop solutions.
> 
> If you compare images of the Pinner equipped Storia to the stock version, the spacer moves the spring to the opposite end of the shock thus eliminating the contact points of the spring with the Cascade link. Smart.
> 
> ...


Apologies, I thought you were inquiring about info on WHAT the retainer ring does. Seems like you’re diggin for reviews and opinions (?)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## toth.alex.j (Jan 7, 2022)

Energ8t said:


> Apologies, I thought you were inquiring about info on WHAT the retainer ring does. Seems like you’re diggin for reviews and opinions (?)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I mostly wanted to see who, if anyone, found success with the cascade link and a coil. The Pinner part does make sense and looks like that is the best route paired with the EXT. Now I'm just kicking myself for not buying an EXT when I found one on sale on Boxing Day. I think I have my answer but appreciate any other opinions on different coil shocks. Seems like Push and EXT are most popular which is somewhat surprising given their premium price point over Fox/RockShox. I thought I would see more DHX2s in previous posts.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

If you are looking into going coil, you should also consider the Marzocchi Bomber CR. It is extremely affordable compared to pretty much any other coil shock on the market. You could first run it stock to try out and if you felt you wanted further improvements, you could still send it to a shock tuner for customized tuning and even then the overall cost (price for the shock plus costs for the customized tuning) will still be significantly lower compared to EXT or Push. That said, to best of my knowledge there is currently no adaptor/solution to make the Bomber CR work with the Cascade link.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

toth.alex.j said:


> I mostly wanted to see who, if anyone, found success with the cascade link and a coil. The Pinner part does make sense and looks like that is the best route paired with the EXT. Now I'm just kicking myself for not buying an EXT when I found one on sale on Boxing Day. I think I have my answer but appreciate any other opinions on different coil shocks. Seems like Push and EXT are most popular which is somewhat surprising given their premium price point over Fox/RockShox. I thought I would see more DHX2s in previous posts.


Personally, I love the CC link. It made a noticeable improvement and really dialed the ride in even more (bike’s at 160 front/ 142 rear). I also tried it with the stock DPX2, which was also excellent, when I serviced my ElevenSix.


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## SaamS (Aug 22, 2007)

So you're running the CC link with ElevenSix? I thought I read that Push doesn't recommend running their shock. I wasn't sure if that was due to a lack of testing or the shock itself not being suitable for the link (not exactly sure why that would be the case). That said, did they give you an issue? I am looking at that same combo (along with the 160MM fork and slacker headset) to essentially broaden the range of my druid but I am conflicted. Given the changes you've made, what not just bike up to the Dreadnought? Overall that's the big question I myself keep running into.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

SaamS said:


> So you're running the CC link with ElevenSix? I thought I read that Push doesn't recommend running their shock. I wasn't sure if that was due to a lack of testing or the shock itself not being suitable for the link (not exactly sure why that would be the case). That said, did they give you an issue? I am looking at that same combo (along with the 160MM fork and slacker headset) to essentially broaden the range of my druid but I am conflicted. Given the changes you've made, what not just bike up to the Dreadnought? Overall that's the big question I myself keep running into.


I already had the ElevenSix R and decided to try the CC link before fitment issues were mentioned. An email chain went out with the first round customers complaining that coils weren’t fitting and they followed up with a new link that addressed some fitment but not so much for the coils many were running like DHX2, EXT and 11/6. It also seemed like different 11/6 shocks had different amounts of interference. I looked at my link and decided to give it a try since the interference was minimal. After I modded the link, it was fine and have no contact issues. I would certainly not recommend this for obvious reasons, but I was in a position to give it a go and it’s been great… for me.

As for the Dreadnought, it’s been considered but it is likely still a bit over-biked for my area compared to the 160/140 Druid which is spot on all-around. But… I do have areas around me that can handle a Dread.

To make things even nuttier and completely unnecessary, I’m working on the Sprindex coil addition. It also “fits” but the preload ring threads are about ~90-95% in contact with the shock body threads (reminiscent of the chain guide lower roller removal concerns) since the coil is longer than normal. I’m looking to have a new preload ring machined so I can get the right fit. Since I’m right between spring weights - depending on gear, body weight flux and seasonal terrain - this would be an awesome upgrade for me. We’ll see how that progresses.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I'm running a Springdex on my Ripmo tuned Super Deluxe coil shock. The Springdex is a progressive spring, so it adds some additional end stroke ramp/progression. I do not have a Cascade link, my frame is still in the warranty period and I don't really feel the need to add 12mm travel.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Update on my issue with the cable housing retainer “door” under the top tube. As mentioned, the bolt had seized and sheared the rivnut insert in half, leaving the bolt spinning and unable to come out. Another person commented that it could be from sweat, which is most likely the culprit after I excavated, and inspected, the bolt out of the frame.

It took me a decent amount of time to fix this as I didn’t want to ruin anything and I was communicating with Forbidden to aid in that process. Forbidden sent my a free replacement part and rivnut (and a pair of socks for dealing with the problem, which was more than kind) which I installed after Dremeling out the plastic door and bolt head (and fished the parts that fell into the top tube).

Moral of the story is that the bolt should be checked and lubed frequently if you’re sweating on your top tube a lot like I do. It’s a simple step to overlook, but easy to do once in awhile to avoid what I had to do.




















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## PisgahGnar (Apr 15, 2021)

This is so incredibly timely. I was just coming on here to ask if anyone had issues with seized accessory mount bolts. It has to be the same thing as you, sweat. At this point I’ve inadvertently stripped the head of the bolts


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

The torque for those bolts is suuuuuper low too


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

home_piece said:


> The torque for those bolts is suuuuuper low too


Yeah, mine wasn’t too tight (screwed in too far) and I never touched it until I discovered it was seized. Only had this problem with the under top tube cable door (assumedly from sweat corrosion). None of the others on the frame. I’m assuming this may be similar for others?


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## roma258 (Apr 20, 2012)

Howdy folks, joined the Forbidden Druid cult this week. A guy in our MTB group chat was selling his size large frames with some bits and bobs, and I jumped on it. After buying the remaining parts and finishing the build, took her out for my first ride and had a blast. Was planning to ease into it, bed the brakes, mess with suspension settings, but our riding group was hitting a spot I've been wanting to try, so dove right into the deep end. Within a couple miles I was feeling confident enough to ride some steep slabs and hit jump lines. Super stoked!








Here are the build details:
Size large frame,cosmic eggplant
Drivetrain: SRAM Frankenbuild- NX derailleur, XO1 shifters, XG cassette, GX cranks
Wheels: Hunt aluminum trailwide
Squish: Fox Factory 36 (150 mm), Custom tuned DPX2 in the back
Brakes: Magura MT5 trails, 200 upfront, 180 rear
Bikeyoke dropper, wolftooth lever
Other odds and ends: cascade components link, XT pedals (will eventually switch), Renthal fatbar, Specialized Eliminiator on the rear, Hillbilly on the front.

Might try a coil down the line, seems like the cascade link would play nice with it. But for now, just gonna dial it in and enjoy riding both local trails and the gnarly stuff that's a bit further out!


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Welcome! Feels like it's been forever since someone posted their rig!


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## roma258 (Apr 20, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Welcome! Feels like it's been forever since someone posted their rig!


Thanks, stoked to be on the bike. Guess it's not new hotness anymore, but it is for me. Just got out on my first ride yesterday, even got some follow cam footy:

__
http://instagr.am/p/CY1opdMqh8f/


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

Here's mine! 

XL cosmic eggplant 
XT build kit
Ohlins coil fork from last bike
WAO faction / Hydra wheels / DD tires
33.5lbs

Now if only I can find some time to get out and ride!


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

home_piece said:


> Here's mine!
> 
> XL cosmic eggplant
> XT build kit
> ...


Is Forbidden still selling those water bottles?


----------



## NS-NV (Aug 15, 2006)

Energ8t said:


> Update on my issue with the cable housing retainer “door” under the top tube. As mentioned, the bolt had seized and sheared the rivnut insert in half, leaving the bolt spinning and unable to come out. Another person commented that it could be from sweat, which is most likely the culprit after I excavated, and inspected, the bolt out of the frame.
> 
> It took me a decent amount of time to fix this as I didn’t want to ruin anything and I was communicating with Forbidden to aid in that process. Forbidden sent my a free replacement part and rivnut (and a pair of socks for dealing with the problem, which was more than kind) which I installed after Dremeling out the plastic door and bolt head (and fished the parts that fell into the top tube).
> 
> ...


Feel your pain... Had the same thing happen on my Knolly Warden C. Huge PITA. Not caused by sweat, but NVan winters. Removing and applying anti-seize is part of my regular maintenance.


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Is Forbidden still selling those water bottles?


Yes got it from them directly


----------



## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

home_piece said:


> Here's mine!
> 
> XL cosmic eggplant
> XT build kit
> ...


Nice build! Interested why WAO Faction over Unions? What is your weight and tire width? And how is that Öhlins holding up? lots of questions  Some pieces on that bike I was considering myself. Have made a pact to keep riding my Druid another two years (for at least a total of 4), but having an itch to upgrade from my Fox 36 Fit4 Factory, and possibly from EX511s to carbon wheels. Cheers.


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

dustybarrels said:


> Nice build! Interested why WAO Faction over Unions? What is your weight and tire width? And how is that Öhlins holding up? lots of questions  Some pieces on that bike I was considering myself. Have made a pact to keep riding my Druid another two years (for at least a total of 4), but having an itch to upgrade from my Fox 36 Fit4 Factory, and possibly from EX511s to carbon wheels. Cheers.


I went with the Factions to save a bit of weight and I got a killer deal. I figure with their warranty my only real risk is timing for a replacement if needed. I weigh about 190 in my b-day suit and currently running assegai 2.5 and DHR 2.4 but plan to narrow those down come spring. Ohlins has been GREAT, zero problems to-date and it's seen a lot of shuttle laps at Mount Prevost.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

home_piece said:


> I went with the Factions to save a bit of weight and I got a killer deal. I figure with their warranty my only real risk is timing for a replacement if needed. I weigh about 190 in my b-day suit and currently running assegai 2.5 and DHR 2.4 but plan to narrow those down come spring. Ohlins has been GREAT, zero problems to-date and it's seen a lot of shuttle laps at Mount Prevost.


This (the Ohlins) is relevant to my interests. I kill CSUs annually at best, and I was told by Suspensionwerx that it's the only brand that doesn't have the creaky crown problem. Thanks for the additional data point.


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## dustybarrels (Jul 29, 2020)

home_piece said:


> I went with the Factions to save a bit of weight and I got a killer deal. I figure with their warranty my only real risk is timing for a replacement if needed. I weigh about 190 in my b-day suit and currently running assegai 2.5 and DHR 2.4 but plan to narrow those down come spring. Ohlins has been GREAT, zero problems to-date and it's seen a lot of shuttle laps at Mount Prevost.


Thanks for the details. I will go Ohlins next fork, but likely air. Debating WAO and Nobl a bit. Sounds like WAO will do the same Nobl has done on the TR37, and opt for differing front and rear widths. Btw, just buy a NSB idler, and keep it on hand as your aluminum idler will go quickly or you will get tired of scraping ounces of gunk off it each cleaning (gums up on the backside quickly). Love the purple color of your bike the best. Enjoy!


----------



## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

What rise handlebars is everyone running?

I recently dropped the fork travel back down to 150 from 160 and the stack feels lower than I was anticipating. I tend ride in an "aggressive" position and really had to push myself back more than I'd like. Of course, I should give myself a few more rides to adjust.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

First ride of 2022

First ride since back injury

First ride on the druid

Feels good😁


----------



## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> What rise handlebars is everyone running?


I think mine are 30mm. I run a 160 fork (571 axle to crown) with maybe a 5mm spacer under the stem.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> What rise handlebars is everyone running?


23mm with the 43mm stem slammed, no spacer (works headset adds 5-7mm stack) and a 140mm fork.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> First ride of 2022
> 
> First ride since back injury
> 
> ...


LOOKS good! Stoked to see another Druid out here in Austin!


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> First ride of 2022
> 
> First ride since back injury
> 
> ...


Back injury? ☹


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Back injury? ☹


Yeah man. Three herniated disc in my lower back. Went into hospital on 11/22 with extreme pain after a ride and confirmed. No surgery or shots but lots of PT. 

Don't recommend LoL


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> LOOKS good! Stoked to see another Druid out here in Austin!


Thanks!

Need to get out for a ride then. You been to spider?


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Yeah man. Three herniated disc in my lower back. Went into hospital on 11/22 with extreme pain after a ride and confirmed. No surgery or shots but lots of PT.
> 
> Don't recommend LoL


That’s horrible. Glad you are back in the saddle. Literally!

I’m on day 11 of 35 of this kind of stuff:


----------



## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Need to get out for a ride then. You been to spider?


I try to go at least once a month, every weekend when it's hot. But I much prefer to pedal around when the weather is this nice! Doing a lot of Barton and Jester these days.


----------



## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

How do you guys feel about the current geo of the druid? Looking at the size Medium ziggy numbers it looks like it goes down to a 440mm reach and 75.1deg STA. This is pretty different than what i'm currently riding. How does it feel on the trail? For reference I'm currently on an SB130LR but really like the way high pivot feels


----------



## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

habaden said:


> How do you guys feel about the current geo of the druid? Looking at the size Medium ziggy numbers it looks like it goes down to a 440mm reach and 75.1deg STA. This is pretty different than what i'm currently riding. How does it feel on the trail? For reference I'm currently on an SB130LR but really like the way high pivot feels


I’m 5’11ish with long arms and legs and find the large to be one of the smallest feeling frames I have owned. That said, the wheelbase is definitely not short. If the reach were any longer, I may have a difficult time getting the front end up, so I don’t mind it feeling a little tight. 

I’m running a 36 at 150 and find the front end plenty slack enough. STA is good for me (it’s steepness is probably a factor in the reach feeling short for me).

One thing I do notice is the stack seems low. I prefer my front ends higher but I can’t fault the cornering of this bike, running a 50 stem and an 800 20 mm rise bar.

In short, I’m a fan of the geo but find the reach a little on the compact size, and the front end a tad low for my liking.


----------



## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I’m 5’11ish with long arms and legs and find the large to be one of the smallest feeling frames I have owned. That said, the wheelbase is definitely not short. If the reach were any longer, I may have a difficult time getting the front end up, so I don’t mind it feeling a little tight.
> 
> I’m running a 36 at 150 and find the front end plenty slack enough. STA is good for me (it’s steepness is probably a factor in the reach feeling short for me).
> 
> ...


I agree with a lot this.

I recently went back to a 150 mm fork after running a 160 for several months. I definitely noticed the lower stack height and I'm going to switch from 20 mm rise bars to 35.

I've felt on the short end of most modern mediums. Previously rode a Ripmo V2. The medium Druid really feels right for me at 5'6". Although I may experiment increasing my stem length from 35 to 40 mm. 

Given the shorter reach, I think you can get a way with slacker STA.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I try to go at least once a month, every weekend when it's hot. But I much prefer to pedal around when the weather is this nice! Doing a lot of Barton and Jester these days.



Haven't been to barton in a year. Live in south austin, so keep me in mind


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

habaden said:


> How do you guys feel about the current geo of the druid? Looking at the size Medium ziggy numbers it looks like it goes down to a 440mm reach and 75.1deg STA. This is pretty different than what i'm currently riding. How does it feel on the trail? For reference I'm currently on an SB130LR but really like the way high pivot feels


My ape index is pretty high, 5' 11 (ish) with a 30" inseam and ride a Large. I run a 2* works headset which shortens TTL a bit, but also steepens STA by dropping the front end. HTA is 64* and STA is 77(ish) with a 140mm fork running 29 F&R. Geo feels good to me and I've been doing the long, low, slack thing since 2014 when I bought my first Process 111.

If it were me, I'd ad and angleset and cascade link to any druid an owner is planning on using the ziggy. I was surprised that there was a BB drop even with the ziggy link. Oh well.

For comparison, heres a pic of my druid next to my other 180mm, mullet super-slack high pivot rig.


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## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

ATXZJ said:


> My ape index is pretty high, 5' 11 (ish) with a 30" inseam and ride a Large. I run a 2* works headset which shortens TTL a bit, but also steepens STA by dropping the front end. HTA is 64* and STA is 77(ish) with a 140mm fork running 29 F&R. Geo feels good to me and I've been doing the long, low, slack thing since 2014 when I bought my first Process 111.
> 
> If it were me, I'd ad and angleset and cascade link to any druid an owner is planning on using the ziggy. I was surprised that there was a BB drop even with the ziggy link. Oh well.
> 
> ...


Does running an angleset further decrease reach?


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

habaden said:


> Does running an angleset further decrease reach?


Yes, slightly. I run a 43mm stem instead of the usual 40mm because of this.

How tall are you?


----------



## habaden (Sep 16, 2019)

ATXZJ said:


> Yes, slightly. I run a 43mm stem instead of the usual 40mm because of this.
> 
> How tall are you?


5'8, pretty average proportions


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

habaden said:


> 5'8, pretty average proportions


Medium would probably be fine depending where you ride. If you ride big/steep stuff a large would work too. Druid is on the conservative side of geo so sizing up one isn't a big leap. I run a 150mm cascade dropper with a 30" inseam. 

Wife is 5'3 and rides a small 29er traillbike, but has a medium 160mm rig for park and mountains.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Getting back into this thread after a while away. I owned a 2019 druid when they first came out, loved the bike despite some annoying niggles and bad luck with things breaking, all of which I posted on this thread many many pages back. Sold it after about a year to try something new and am considering going back to a druid. Things I didn't like about my original druid: 

1. wanted slightly more and slightly more progressive travel
2. disliked the drag from the lower pulley wheel 
3. The upper aluminum chainring was noisy, got covered in gunk quickly, and wore out quickly

Obviously I could (and would) get a Cascade link for problem #1. For #2 it seems several have just ditched this lower guide wheel or replaced the chain guide with the MRP or cascade one, has anyone experienced negative effects from this? As for #3, there is the forbidden stainless steel pulley but I noticed some from jank components that are stainless steel and promise increased durability and less noise. Anyone have experience with these?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

rpearce1475 said:


> Getting back into this thread after a while away. I owned a 2019 druid when they first came out, loved the bike despite some annoying niggles and bad luck with things breaking, all of which I posted on this thread many many pages back. Sold it after about a year to try something new and am considering going back to a druid. Things I didn't like about my original druid:
> 
> 1. wanted slightly more and slightly more progressive travel
> 2. disliked the drag from the lower pulley wheel
> ...


Reason for ruling out the Dreadnought?

I've been curious about trying the MRP or Cascade lower guide. I feel like they should be more popular, but I imagine there's a good reason that they're not.

The first version of the Jank idler was really good for about 2-3 months, and then started making this terrible noise. Eric set me up with the new version, and no issues so far. I would have gotten the NSB idler but it was out of stock for sometime. Totally happy with the Jank.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> Haven't been to barton in a year. Live in south austin, so keep me in mind


Shoot me a message whenever you're looking to ride! I usually do 1-2 quick night rides during the week and a longer ride on Sundays.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

rpearce1475 said:


> Getting back into this thread after a while away. I owned a 2019 druid when they first came out, loved the bike despite some annoying niggles and bad luck with things breaking, all of which I posted on this thread many many pages back. Sold it after about a year to try something new and am considering going back to a druid. Things I didn't like about my original druid:
> 
> 1. wanted slightly more and slightly more progressive travel
> 2. disliked the drag from the lower pulley wheel
> ...


I have the NSB SS. Quiet and rides just fine. Haven’t tried Jank, they were out of stock and the NSB just arrived in time for me.
I’m rolling CC link, 160 Fox 36 with Secus, -1 Wolftooth Geo Headset, ElevenSix. Great all-arounder @ 140/160. I’m curious about the CC lower guide as well. Not convinced yet, but it’d be nice to remove an extra moving part.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

Jank was very quiet for a while, but then developed a creak so I switched back. I also rode without the bottom pulley for a while, but the chain would come off with hard, out of saddle efforts. Cascade guard may prevent this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Reason for ruling out the Dreadnought?
> 
> I've been curious about trying the MRP or Cascade lower guide. I feel like they should be more popular, but I imagine there's a good reason that they're not.
> 
> The first version of the Jank idler was really good for about 2-3 months, and then started making this terrible noise. Eric set me up with the new version, and no issues so far. I would have gotten the NSB idler but it was out of stock for sometime. Totally happy with the Jank.


Dreadnought is just more bike than I need. Druid was perfect for everything but high speed double blacks for me at 130 so just a touch more travel and progressivity should do the trick without lugging around all the extra weight/travel/size of the dreadnought. I'll look into the NSB idler as well


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

One year in on my Druid. Still in honeymoon phase!


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Aquaholic said:


> View attachment 1970806


How are you liking those Ride5's?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Aquaholic said:


> One year in on my Druid. Still in honeymoon phase!


Great pics, and your trails are making me freakin' jealous!


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

RadicalPugilism said:


> How are you liking those Ride5's?


I've ridden on them twice. They are really invisible to me as far as how they feel, compared to the carbon crankset I was running. They are heavier. But, the cool factor negates that!


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## DIRTJUNKIE (Oct 18, 2000)

Like a work of art.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

How often is everyone lubing their drivetrain? The dirt has been great. Not dusty, and I never ride in the mud. But I still feel like I need to lube after every ride.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

RadicalPugilism said:


> How often is everyone lubing their drivetrain? The dirt has been great. Not dusty, and I never ride in the mud. But I still feel like I need to lube after every ride.


Lubing after every ride even when no dusty or muddy conditions seems excessive to me, but horses for courses. May also depend on what lube you use. I used Squirt very happily for years and recently switched to DumondeTech, because I had that bottle laying around for years, but it’s way more messy to use and not as long lasting as Squirt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

fizzywater said:


> Lubing after every ride even when no dusty or muddy conditions seems excessive to me, but horses for courses. May also depend on what lube you use. I used Squirt very happily for years and recently switched to DumondeTech, because I had that bottle laying around for years, but it’s way more messy to use and not as long lasting as Squirt.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Also using DumondeTech.

I certainly don’t need to lube it daily, but the difference is very noticeable.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> How often is everyone lubing their drivetrain? The dirt has been great. Not dusty, and I never ride in the mud. But I still feel like I need to lube after every ride.


I lube the chain before every ride. Dry dusty conditions. Rock n roll blue lube which is very light. Used maxima lube in the past but it would cake if used too often.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

A_street said:


> I lube the chain before every ride. Dry dusty conditions. Rock n roll blue lube which is very light. Used maxima lube in the past but it would cake if used too often.


I have used a few lubes with the Druid which I tend to notice the differences immediately if it is good or bad.

A.T.B. (white cap) for light dry/dusty conditions. Loses lubrication properties noticeably if it any wet is encountered on ride. Drivetrain starts to get noisy. Clean and doesn’t gum up. Haven’t tried: Red Cap version - mist, rain, heavy dust. Blue Cap version - heavy rain, mud. These may be excellent options.

Muc-off Ceramic Lube (samples I got). Felt good but gummed up awfully. Expensive as well. No thanks.

Muc-off Wet Lube. Works well in wet, but also gums up. Not a fan.

Pro-Link Chain Lube. Light chain lube specified for all conditions, all weather. MFR tech which bonds with metal. So far, so good. No gumming so far, sheds dirt well. Keeps lubrication properties better than A.T.B. (White cap) in light wet conditions. I think most similar to DuMonde Tech.

I ride dusty dry and occasionally seasonal snowy/wet conditions. I have to lube before nearly every ride to keep the drivetrain quiet and optimal. Sometimes I forget and it ends up being just fine… if it’s not too wet out. But, if the Druid isn’t lubed frequently, it can get annoying for me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Energ8t said:


> Pro-Link Chain Lube. Light chain lube specified for all conditions, all weather. MFR tech which bonds with metal. So far, so good. No gumming so far, sheds dirt well. Keeps lubrication properties better than A.T.B. (White cap) in light wet conditions. I think most similar to DuMonde Tech.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Same results here. Sticking with Pro-Link


----------



## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Energ8t said:


> I have used a few lubes with the Druid which I tend to notice the differences immediately if it is good or bad.
> 
> ...


I'll add to the "no-go" list, the dry compound WPL; it leaves a terrible white residue, and doesn't seem to actually lubricate very much. Even when aggressively cleaned off after application, you get a plasticky white gunk left on anything, and links will actually stay flexed if you use your fingers to bend the chain at the joints. It's almost like you got plumbers teflon stuck in the links.

Finish line dual cleaner and lube does work pretty well, as do both of the wd-40 wet and dry chain lubes (not to be confused with the wd40 spray). The WD-40 smells like cheap cologne though :\

I'm gonna try that pro-link.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I've had the best luck hot waxing my chain with Molten Speed Wax. Works very well in most conditions unless it's really wet. Did a ride in the rain and it completely wiped it out. Day to day riding it works great for me, but is a process to maintain.


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## johnsogr (May 31, 2009)

ALS650L said:


> I've had the best luck hot waxing my chain with Molten Speed Wax. Works very well in most conditions unless it's really wet. Did a ride in the rain and it completely wiped it out. Day to day riding it works great for me, but is a process to maintain.


Bump this - have waxed for a couple years and love it, but not good in wet (which I avoid anyways)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

I appreciate the responses, everyone!

After more idler issues and now a planned move back to the west coast, I’ve kicked around a frame trade. Then I get another great ride in.










It took a good 3 months to get the suspension dialed in the front and the rear. Picked up some brakes to replace my SLXs. I really just need to get this drivetrain situation sorted. 

How are y’all liking your NSB stainless steel idlers? And is there a recommended replacement interval for the lower roller?


----------



## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I appreciate the responses, everyone!
> 
> After more idler issues and now a planned move back to the west coast, I’ve kicked around a frame trade. Then I get another great ride in.
> 
> ...


where you moving on the west coast?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

A_street said:


> where you moving on the west coast?


Not sure - I'll be applying in all the major metropolitan areas but I'm really hoping for the Seattle area.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Morning sesh in the backyard.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> How are y’all liking your NSB stainless steel idlers? And is there a recommended replacement interval for the lower roller?



Now that the manufacturing issues seem sorted, the steel idler has been great. As for the lower roller, mine was pooched after 5k km (that was three idlers, for comparison).


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## Thrawn (Jan 15, 2009)

Energ8t said:


> I have the NSB SS. Quiet and rides just fine. Haven’t tried Jank, they were out of stock and the NSB just arrived in time for me.
> I’m rolling CC link, 160 Fox 36 with Secus, -1 Wolftooth Geo Headset, ElevenSix. Great all-arounder @ 140/160. I’m curious about the CC lower guide as well. Not convinced yet, but it’d be nice to remove an extra moving part.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Please tell me more!
What spring rate are you running on the ElevinSix? Curious about clearance with the Cascade Link.
With the Geo Headset, are you running it -1* to make it slacker in addition to a 160mm fork? Thanks!


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Going into season #4.

This frame was from the first production run. Dustin Adams of We Are One had purchased it. There were no large black frames left and when he found out I wanted one, he said I could have his. He bought a moss gloss instead.

Looking clean, in good shape (thanks to the RideWrap which I applied before I built it) and totally serviced, including the 11-6. Can’t wait to get started…


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Rear suspension on my late 2021 Druid has started squeaking like crazy on any compression or while pedaling.

Is this typical? Bike has a total of 400 miles on it since I bought it new and is built up with the stock DPX2. Is the remedy for this the linkage service described on the Forbidden website? Bike has mostly been ridden in the very dry winter we’ve had in California with a couple of wet days back in January.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Rear suspension on my late 2021 Druid has started squeaking like crazy on any compression or while pedaling.
> 
> Is this typical? Bike has a total of 400 miles on it since I bought it new and is built up with the stock DPX2. Is the remedy for this the linkage service described on the Forbidden website? Bike has mostly been ridden in the very dry winter we’ve had in California with a couple of wet days back in January.


There has been some issues with the washer in the rear suspension linkage rubbing on excess paint. This can cause some noise. I spent a lot of time taking my linkage apart chasing down squeaking noises. Forbidden has redesigned washers that can remedy it. The linkage washers sounds more like it is a creaking I think.
My problem ended up being the DPX2. I sent it to FOX under warranty and they sent it back saying nothing was wrong with it. They supposedly took it apart and serviced it, 20 minutes into my first ride on the serviced shock it was making noise again. I had sent Fox a video of the noise, but they never listened to it. I had to send the shock back a second time after the service person actually watched the video. I had gone as far as swapping the shock onto a different frame to prove to them it was the shock as they kept telling me it wasn't before they would send an RMA for the second return. The second time back to Fox they fully disassembled it and found that it had insufficient lubricant in it from the factory. They did a full tear down and rebuild, I replaced it with a Rock Shox Super Deluxe coil, bike has been quiet since.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

I removed the rear fender and cleaned that and re-greased the screws. That didn’t resolve it.

However pulling the shock out, cleaning the mounts and reattaching it seems to have cured the squeak for now. Odd. Once I get some white lithium grease in the house I will try the linkage maintenance routine as well.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ALS650L said:


> …My problem ended up being the DPX2. I sent it to FOX under warranty and they sent it back saying nothing was wrong with it. They supposedly took it apart and serviced it, 20 minutes into my first ride on the serviced shock it was making noise again. I had sent Fox a video of the noise, but they never listened to it. I had to send the shock back a second time after the service person actually watched the video. I had gone as far as swapping the shock onto a different frame to prove to them it was the shock as they kept telling me it wasn't before they would send an RMA for the second return. The second time back to Fox they fully disassembled it and found that it had insufficient lubricant in it from the factory. They did a full tear down and rebuild, I replaced it with a Rock Shox Super Deluxe coil, bike has been quiet since.


Thousands of posts ago, I conveyed the same story. The squeak in my DPX2 almost drove me mad. Nobody could get rid of it. So I bought an 11-6. Things have been great ever since.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

A few weeks ago I was really close to selling my Druid, but ultimately got cold feet. I've decided to hold off until we actually move and I've had a chance to really ride the trails wherever we end up. Since I'm keeping her - I'm all in.

I picked up an NSB idler which has resolved 90% of my problems with the Druid so far. I also got around to mounting these TRPs I've had sitting around for the last few months. I've been coil-curious since I got the bike - so why not?

Anyway, here's the build. It's about as "dream build" as I can handle. Little bits of bling, but mostly reliable components that perform well and shouldn't require tons of service.



















Frame: Druid, medium with NSB aluminum idler pulley
Shock: Fox DHX2, SLS spring
Fork: Fox Factory 36, Grip2 damper
Drivetrain: Shimano SLX with AbsoluteBlack oval 30t chainring
Pedals: PNW Loam
Brakes: TRP DH-R Evo, 200 mm rotors front/rear
Headset: Cane Creek Hellbender 70
Handlebars: One Up carbon, 35 mm rise, 770 width
Grips: Lizard Skins
Stem: Industry Nine A35, 40mm
Seatpost: Bike Yoke Revive 160 mm
Saddle: WTB Silverado
Wheels: Industry Nine 1/1 32h laced to DT Swiss EX511, 29" front/rear
Tires: Front- Maxxis DHR2, Rear - Maxxis Dissector with Tannus insert

I'm considering giving the 160 fork a try again, but I would do it with a -1 angle set since I did notice the slackened STA before.

If I had a better camera I bet I could win Vital's Bike of the Day. 😅


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Thousands of posts ago, I conveyed the same story. The squeak in my DPX2 almost drove me mad. Nobody could get rid of it. So I bought an 11-6. Things have been great ever since.


I had the squeak after buying the Druid used. Had it serviced. It squeaked a lot less, but performed exponentially better. Still squeaks a bit but doesn't bother me too much.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I had my first full ride on the fox 36 performance elite (which came with the bike) with the Vorsprung Luftkappe installed. I removed 2 spacers and ran my regular pressure. It works as advertised and is well worth the money. The initial travel is far more soft/supple and there is much more mid-stroke support. I don't understand why Fox doesn't install a larger negative spring by default. Or just license the Luftkappe.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> I had my first full ride on the fox 36 performance elite (which came with the bike) with the Vorsprung Luftkappe installed. I removed 2 spacers and ran my regular pressure. It works as advertised and is well worth the money. The initial travel is far more soft/supple and there is much more mid-stroke support. I don't understand why Fox doesn't install a larger negative spring by default. Or just license the Luftkappe.


That’s my experience as well. I feel sad for posters who can’t seem to dial in their 36. Then the Manitou crew arrives in the thread and $hits all over Fox. My 150 GRIP2 36 with a Luftkappe does not disappoint. Ever. If it did, I would ditch it in a second.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That’s my experience as well. I feel sad for posters who can’t seem to dial in their 36. Then the Manitou crew arrives in the thread and $hits all over Fox. My 150 GRIP2 36 with a Luftkappe does not disappoint. Ever. If it did, I would ditch it in a second.


It's crazy but my fox now feels like a coil.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> It's crazy but my fox now feels like a coil.


I know I’ve mentioned before, but the Secus is even more coil-like than LK. Best upgrade on my entire Druid, including over the 11-6… Not that I’d give that up.

*YOMV

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Thrawn said:


> Please tell me more!
> What spring rate are you running on the ElevinSix? Curious about clearance with the Cascade Link.
> With the Geo Headset, are you running it -1* to make it slacker in addition to a 160mm fork? Thanks!


Yep, running -1 GeoShift (slacker) with 160 fork. I’m using a Sprindex successfully on the 11/6 and adjust the weight around depending on my weight/terrain, but usually around 530 (between spring coil options). I’m about 180lb out-of-the-shower. Love the set-up a lot.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> I know I’ve mentioned before, but the Secus is even more coil-like than LK. Best upgrade on my entire Druid, including over the 11-6… Not that I’d give that up.
> 
> *YOMV
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Intrigued…


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Energ8t said:


> I know I’ve mentioned before, but the Secus is even more coil-like than LK. Best upgrade on my entire Druid, including over the 11-6… Not that I’d give that up.
> 
> *YOMV
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I thought hard about a secus. I decided against it after I had my first crash where I gouged the ridewrap on my fork, on the back of the fork. I don't trust myself to ride well enough to keep the secus attached


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Had my first ride on the DHX2 tonight. I didn't take it on the roughest stuff available, but I did ride my normal route and the place I tend to ride to dial in my bike when I make any changes. 

First time running a coil shock in the rear and I was pleasantly surprised. The suggested settings from Forbidden were pretty much spot on. My only complaint (aside from adding weight to an already heavy bike) was that the bike sits in it's travel a little more on the climbs. I had to lean forward a little more than I've been used to. Hoping an LSC adjustment can help out with that.

Kinda makes me wish that ACS3 worked out for me.

The TRPs are great, too. I appreciate the more consistent bite point.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Welp, went through all the trouble of the linkage service. No bearing issues found, everything cleaned, regreased, reassembled… and the squeak still seems to be there. Pretty convinced it’s the DPX2.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Welp, went through all the trouble of the linkage service. No bearing issues found, everything cleaned, regreased, reassembled… and the squeak still seems to be there. Pretty convinced it’s the DPX2.


For sure it is. It almost drove me insane. It’s why I have an 11-6 on my bike right now. This is not something novel. Others, including myself, have experienced what you are describing. The only thing that’s weird to me, is that I KNEW it was my shock. It didn’t dawn on me it was the linkage or bearings. As soon as I swapped shocks, boom. Instant silence on the trail.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Welp, went through all the trouble of the linkage service. No bearing issues found, everything cleaned, regreased, reassembled… and the squeak still seems to be there. Pretty convinced it’s the DPX2.


There are still two other things to check:
1. Remove and clean the idler bearing and interface.
2. If you have the original axle, pull it out and check for cracking at the transition from smooth shoulder to threads.

I had a weird creaking I could never find. Snapped the rear axle, and the problem was _gone_ when I replaced it.

That said, it's still probably the shock


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Welp, went through all the trouble of the linkage service. No bearing issues found, everything cleaned, regreased, reassembled… and the squeak still seems to be there. Pretty convinced it’s the DPX2.


There is options for air and coil shocks to replace it that aren't over $1000. I emailed Forbidden for info on Rockshox tune codes for the Druid and they replied right back with them, I did this after they released all their team bikes last year with Lyriks and Super Deluxe shocks on them. I ended up getting a Super Deluxe coil with the LL320 tune. Online and in QBP listings it is listed for a Ibis Ripmo.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Welp, went through all the trouble of the linkage service. No bearing issues found, everything cleaned, regreased, reassembled… and the squeak still seems to be there. Pretty convinced it’s the DPX2.


I think other folks' suggestion that it's the shock itself is probably right, but one suspension noise I had--more of a creak than a squeak--turned out to be from the front bolt of the shock. I had been loctiting the threads but a light grease on the shaft, but when I used grease on the threads the creak went away. I'm ok with this because the shock doesn't rotate much around that bolt, but now I check the torque more frequently just in case (it's stayed torqued for ~6 months). LIke I said, probably not your problem.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

hbar said:


> I think other folks' suggestion that it's the shock itself is probably right, but one suspension noise I had--more of a creak than a squeak--turned out to be from the front bolt of the shock. I had been loctiting the threads but a light grease on the shaft, but when I used grease on the threads the creak went away. I'm ok with this because the shock doesn't rotate much around that bolt, but now I check the torque more frequently just in case (it's stayed torqued for ~6 months). LIke I said, probably not your problem.


Not a bad theory. I did already try removing and reattaching those bolts, but I can give greasing them a try. It’s definitely a “squeak” rather than a “creak” - for example, about a half hour into a long fire road pedal with the shock HSC open, the bike starts to make a sound like someone rapidly jumping up and down on a old box spring bed.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I knew it was my shock because I applied WPL Forkboost to the shaft and the high pitched squeaking would cease temporarily. Two shops could not rid the squeak permanently. It would always return. The discounted 11-6 showed up and I bailed on the DPX2.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I thought hard about a secus. I decided against it after I had my first crash where I gouged the ridewrap on my fork, on the back of the fork. I don't trust myself to ride well enough to keep the secus attached


I’ve had it a year and a half. Never hit it. Same with my friend who also bought one. No problems. Vorsprung also has a 1 year, no-questions replacement. I also covered it with a large, fairly thick shrink tube for cables. Works like a charm.

If it wasn’t as good as it is, I would remove it for simply being in a weird spot. LOL


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Not a bad theory. I did already try removing and reattaching those bolts, but I can give greasing them a try. It’s definitely a “squeak” rather than a “creak” - for example, about a half hour into a long fire road pedal with the shock HSC open, the bike starts to make a sound like someone rapidly jumping up and down on a old box spring bed.


I remember those sounds from my DPX2


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Well, this is an interesting development. The first test ride after I did the linkage service indicated that the squeak was still there. But after a full ride today, the linkage service actually seems to have banished the squeak (so far). Interestingly the shafts did not seem to have been initially assembled with very much lithium grease, so perhaps that was a factor.

Fingers crossed for now - maybe the DPX2 will live to fight another day.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Well, this is an interesting development. The first test ride after I did the linkage service indicated that the squeak was still there. But after a full ride today, the linkage service actually seems to have banished the squeak (so far). Interestingly the shafts did not seem to have been initially assembled with very much lithium grease, so perhaps that was a factor.
> 
> Fingers crossed for now - maybe the DPX2 will live to fight another day.


Congrats. Nothing like ridding your bike of a mysterious irritating noise. Fingers crossed.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

So Ive had this issue when Im in my largest cog and really putting down torque while climbing if I have to go up and over anything technical there is a chance that the chain will come off the large ring and be sent down the cassette.... as if its bounced off the ring. Other than this scenario all other shifting is good and I never have issues anywhere else in the cassette range. The only thing that I can think of that is the limit screw for the large cog is not quite far enough out causing a downshift during a bump.

Running a SRAM XX1 10 (i know its not recommended)- 42t Cassette with XX1 shifter. Chain is sized correctly and the E13 roller has max tension (so can adjust there for less tension if needed). I run a 28t front ring.

This is a difficult issue to try and replicate at home after doing mechanic work. Everything works fine in the stand and fine when Im riding on the street.

Any insight from those that may have had some shifting issues to work out?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

A_street said:


> So Ive had this issue when Im in my largest cog and really putting down torque while climbing if I have to go up and over anything technical there is a chance that the chain will come off the large ring and be sent down the cassette.... as if its bounced off the ring. Other than this scenario all other shifting is good and I never have issues anywhere else in the cassette range. The only thing that I can think of that is the limit screw for the large cog is not quite far enough out causing a downshift during a bump.
> 
> Running a SRAM XX1 10 (i know its not recommended)- 42t Cassette with XX1 shifter. Chain is sized correctly and the E13 roller has max tension (so can adjust there for less tension if needed). I run a 28t front ring.
> 
> ...


Check your B adjustment. Sram cassettes can be finicky if the spacing between the top pulley and the big cog isn't exact.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

dubthang said:


> Check your B adjustment. Sram cassettes can be finicky if the spacing between the top pulley and the big cog isn't exact.


Also, if you ever bent your rear d, you could be effed. I had nothing but trouble and $hit all over SRAM at this forum because my chain rode on top on the big ring for a bit before it would settle down. I switched to AXS and problem solved.

When I last biked with the late great Legbacon, originator of this thread, RIP, I had some magnificent falls. One of them, I twisted my rear d. The bike shop beside the Comox trailhead swore they had it back perfect. Nope. It may have been close, but it needs to be PERFECT or else life on the bike will deteriorate quickly.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

Got it back to shifting great. Found that it was the hangar had come loose.


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Hey guys, I've owned my Druid for slightly over half a year now, but finding the squishing sound on the DPX2 irritating and am looking into replacing it. Would like to know if anyone has installed a DVO Topaz T3 Air on their Druid? Thanks!


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Even though I banished the squeak, I had to try something new. This should be fun.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Even though I banished the squeak, I had to try something new. This should be fun.
> View attachment 1978531


Nice. Waiting for my Avy Woodie to come back from tuning.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

It's new shock day here too! Squeaking BEGONE!


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

armyofevilrobots said:


> It's new shock day here too! Squeaking BEGONE!
> 
> View attachment 1978555


I'm on a storia as well and it is not a quiet shock. On the other hand I love it and wouldn't change it out. BTW, I'd suggest starting with the softer spring. The storia is super bottomless.


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## A_street (Apr 16, 2013)

For as much as you guys complain about the noise of the shock I hope you are all on Onyx hubs. 😂

the thing I need to do to quiet my bike up is wrap the cables inside the frame to eliminate the rattling.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I'm on a storia as well and it is not a quiet shock. On the other hand I love it and wouldn't change it out. BTW, I'd suggest starting with the softer spring. The storia is super bottomless.


Yep, I'm on the softer spring already. I don't mind noise that's _supposed_ to be there. It's the unpredictable "something isn't right" noises that drive me crazy.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/9-custom-bikes-from-sea-otter-2022.html



Kind of cool custom Druid.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

The 11-6 on the Druid kills. I am not sure if I will even dare to deviate from the two stock setups it came with - they are that good.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> The 11-6 on the Druid kills. I am not sure if I will even dare to deviate from the two stock setups it came with - they are that good.


Worth a try though: Druid Support - PUSH Industries
I use a modified DH mode (firmer than plush) and trail or firm climb mode on the bump valve (dependent on seasonal trails). Def great no matter where you like it. 


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

First ride report on the Storia: Traction, traction, traction. Despite slippery roots, I still found myself cutting tighter lines than normal, and climbing some sketchy stuff that normally throws me off line. I'm running a 450lbs spring where they recommend a 475-500 for my weight, and got into the hydraulic bottom-out a couple times, but it never felt harsh. I won't be moving up a spring.

Came very close to some of my summer hero-dirt PRs. I am very curious how the next few months are gonna shake out. It's possible it's "new gear courage", but it really did feel substantially better than the DPX2.

Oh, and the squeak/creak/tortured-rodent noises are _banished_.


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## babesquatch (Sep 1, 2016)

Does anyone have thoughts on the V2 Jank Idler. I like the concept but the V1's creak was insane and unfixable. I don't want to spend more money on the same experience so trying to decide to just splash out on the NSB idler or try again.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

babesquatch said:


> Does anyone have thoughts on the V2 Jank Idler. I like the concept but the V1's creak was insane and unfixable. I don't want to spend more money on the same experience so trying to decide to just splash out on the NSB idler or try again.


My V2 idler eventually developed the creek. They suggested using a glue of some sort or sending it in. I ended up ordering the aluminum NSB idler. No issues at all. Looks nice, too.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> My V2 idler eventually developed the creek. They suggested using a glue of some sort or sending it in. I ended up ordering the aluminum NSB idler. No issues at all. Looks nice, too.


Same here. I have the NSB SS idler. Zero issues or noise. I did have one random instance where my chain got caught between the idler pulley and the frame on a ride; just pedaling, no wreck. I believe I had to loosen the pulley to release the chain. Quick fix. I’ve never had an issue with a chain getting stuck there before. But it was an isolated freak occurrence and could have been somehow related to my older, out-of-tune derailleur which I since replaced. Not sure how many others have experienced that issue with the pulley or whether it was dependent on which pulley you use or something else random.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Is there a consensus on the thread about running a 160 mm fork? I'm due for fork service so it'd be a convenient time to swap air shafts if it seemed like an overall win. I'm near the mountains, so have access to some quality older janky stuff. Some folks on this thread paired it with an angleset or a Cascade link, which is more than I'd like to do, I think. 

Probably just a full service on the fork will make it feel awesome anyway  , but it'd be nice to know how people like 160 mm long term.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

hbar said:


> Is there a consensus on the thread about running a 160 mm fork? I'm due for fork service so it'd be a convenient time to swap air shafts if it seemed like an overall win. I'm near the mountains, so have access to some quality older janky stuff. Some folks on this thread paired it with an angleset or a Cascade link, which is more than I'd like to do, I think.
> 
> Probably just a full service on the fork will make it feel awesome anyway  , but it'd be nice to know how people like 160 mm long term.


Currently on my second run with a 160 mm fork. 

The first time was just the fork, no angle set. It raised the front end a tiny bit. Took me a week or so to get used to. Sold the fork, and went back to 150.

Now I'm running a 160 with a -1 angle set. I haven't quite sorted the stack out yet, but I feel like I'm putting more pressure on my hands when I'm on the saddle. Otherwise, I don't know if it's a huge improvement. I can't say that the bike feels anymore capable than with the 150. Feels nicer on the steep stuff, but that could just be the angle set. I do like the responsiveness of the standard head tube angle for sure.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

I got one ride. ONE RIDE before a new creak.
Cane Creak Helm II is gonna need a new CSU. Damnit.
I kill a CSU every year. Anybody have a fork that is creak-proof?


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> Is there a consensus on the thread about running a 160 mm fork? I'm due for fork service so it'd be a convenient time to swap air shafts if it seemed like an overall win. I'm near the mountains, so have access to some quality older janky stuff. Some folks on this thread paired it with an angleset or a Cascade link, which is more than I'd like to do, I think.
> 
> Probably just a full service on the fork will make it feel awesome anyway  , but it'd be nice to know how people like 160 mm long term.


I think this is something people just need to try themselves for their terrain and riding style. I personally like the extra travel and I have a Secus so the fork rips through most local terrain very solidly and supplely and balances really well with the ElevenSix/CC link which increases rear travel to ~140.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I got one ride. ONE RIDE before a new creak.
> Cane Creak Helm II is gonna need a new CSU. Damnit.
> I kill a CSU every year. Anybody have a fork that is creak-proof?


I've had really good luck with the 36 that came with the bike. An ext era would pair really well with your storia 

The era has an interesting csu assembly. As well I really like the dual air chamber concept. Just make sure you get v2. Apparently v1 had some bushings that were too tight.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I've had really good luck with the 36 that came with the bike. An ext era would pair really well with your storia
> 
> The era has an interesting csu assembly. As well I really like the dual air chamber concept. Just make sure you get v2. Apparently v1 had some bushings that were too tight.


It's definitely on the list, although $2200CA is a bit steep.
My previous bike had a 36. I killed 3 CSUs on it (and "fixed" a couple of those with wicking loctite before they got too creaky to feel safe). Fox was great for the first couple years on warranty, but I had to pay after that.
My best luck so far has been with a DVO Diamond D3, mostly because (I think) they haven't gone as far as the competition in removing material from the crowns. But it still started creaking after a couple years.

I think that the combination of:

Very steep trails,
220mm rotors
Plenty of low speed drops
My fat ass
are just too much for the current forks available :\


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

armyofevilrobots said:


> It's definitely on the list, although $2200CA is a bit steep.


BUT THINK OF THE SYMMETRY


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I got one ride. ONE RIDE before a new creak.
> Cane Creak Helm II is gonna need a new CSU. Damnit.
> I kill a CSU every year. Anybody have a fork that is creak-proof?


Ohlins


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

home_piece said:


> Ohlins


That's the same thing that Suspensionwerx told me, but it was a single data-point. Do you run Ohlins? How's it been aside from being creak-free?


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## home_piece (Nov 26, 2008)

It's been great for 12+ months. I'm about 200lbs, ride lots of shuttle.laps at Mount Prevost and still silent as new. I have the coil version.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

armyofevilrobots said:


> It's definitely on the list, although $2200CA is a bit steep.
> My previous bike had a 36. I killed 3 CSUs on it (and "fixed" a couple of those with wicking loctite before they got too creaky to feel safe). Fox was great for the first couple years on warranty, but I had to pay after that.
> My best luck so far has been with a DVO Diamond D3, mostly because (I think) they haven't gone as far as the competition in removing material from the crowns. But it still started creaking after a couple years.
> 
> ...


Have you tried any ebike specific forks by chance? Though I don’t know if the crowns are different of those forks… perhaps they only offer thicker stanchion tubes. 


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## Kmag76 (Oct 12, 2016)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I got one ride. ONE RIDE before a new creak.
> Cane Creak Helm II is gonna need a new CSU. Damnit.
> I kill a CSU every year. Anybody have a fork that is creak-proof?


I’ve had good luck with an EXT Era, Manitou Mezzer and an Ohlins RXF 36m.2


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

incubus said:


> Have you tried any ebike specific forks by chance? Though I don’t know if the crowns are different of those forks… perhaps they only offer thicker stanchion tubes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My HelmII actually has "e-bike ready" printed on its steerer.


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## screwbox (12 mo ago)

As a soon to be owner of a Druid i had no time to dig every site of this thread so please excuse me. 
But has anyone tried to fit a Trust Shout fork into the Druid? It seems pretty obvious to use a linkage fork with a rearwards facing axlepath on a frame with a rearwards facing axlepath. This combination seems to make this bike "unstoppable" as it would not hang up on big rocks or roots.
So i have one laying around and i would really like to give this a try instead of the Lyrik i have laying around also.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

screwbox said:


> As a soon to be owner of a Druid i had no time to dig every site of this thread so please excuse me.
> But has anyone tried to fit a Trust Shout fork into the Druid? It seems pretty obvious to use a linkage fork with a rearwards facing axlepath on a frame with a rearwards facing axlepath. This combination seems to make this bike "unstoppable" as it would not hang up on big rocks or roots.
> So i have one laying around and i would really like to give this a try instead of the Lyrik i have laying around also.


Give it a try and let us know, cant see why it wouldn’t “fit”


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Another consideration I picked up in a review and is something often not discussed,
Rearward axle path is countered with a forward axle path when suspension is un-compressing


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

screwbox said:


> As a soon to be owner of a Druid i had no time to dig every site of this thread so please excuse me.
> But has anyone tried to fit a Trust Shout fork into the Druid?


I have seen a photo of one with it, but that's all I know. You have both forks, why not try it. It isn't like you have to invest in the fork on a chance it will work for you.


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## screwbox (12 mo ago)

So the point why i'm not 100% convinced to do it is that the Shout is 580mm axle to crown. About 7mm longer than a 160mm Fox 38. So i'm not only rising the front, i'm killing the warranty. I can't say if the frame will hold up etc. but on the other hand there are people out there putting angle headsets onto the Druid which is also causing more stress on the frame in a similar kind of way. So i really would like to try it. But i don't want to damage my new frame.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

4vdean said:


> Another consideration I picked up in a review and is something often not discussed,
> Rearward axle path is countered with a forward axle path when suspension is un-compressing


This is true, but since the only thing guiding the return of the suspension to its uncompressed state is spring or air pressure, it gives way pretty quickly - or as quickly as the compression settings allow. For what it's worth, the bike absolutely feels better than expected through rough terrain, and feels like it has more travel. Furthermore, there's a reason every DH bike maker on the planet is scrambling to integrate aspects of this design - it works.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

Dingleberrry said:


> This is true, but since the only thing guiding the return of the suspension to its uncompressed state is spring or air pressure, it gives way pretty quickly - or as quickly as the compression settings allow. For what it's worth, the bike absolutely feels better than expected through rough terrain, and feels like it has more travel. Furthermore, there's a reason every DH bike maker on the planet is scrambling to integrate aspects of this design - it works.


The reason every DH bike maker is scrambling to integrate aspects of this design is to sell more bikes. New / innovate creates demand. Commencal does not make Amaury Pierron, Amaury Pierron makes commecal. 

Repetitive hits can result in the rear suspension packing. Additionally, the already long chainstays getting longer under compression does make for a bike that is [more] difficult to get the front wheel up especially on the larger sizes and/or when pointed down. Everything is a compromise, and I suspect we will see this trend find its way to the middle at some point.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Putting my Druid up for sale. Medium, blue steel. DM me for more details.



https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3313903/


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Yes, hsp bikes can pack up, and needs some tweaking on the shock rebound. Running a shock that fast can seem a bit counter intuitive for sure. Took me a while to wrap my head around this.

Reward axle path works when absolute speed is all that matters. Does that lend itself to everyday trail riding? Maybe. Maybe not.

That is up to the end user to decide.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Bike set up info, can everyone share for interest/curiosity, copy paste etc.

Frame: Druid L
Rider weight: 92kg
Ride Style: not aggressive
Shock: storia/cascade link
Spring/psi: 450#
Sag: 35%
Fork: Lyrik/Vorsprung
Spring/psi: 50#
Wheels: 29/27.5 Ziggy 

Comments: 
anyone run 29/29 with Zoggy link
only just put the cascade link on and it feels so plush (how I like it) thinking upping the spring to 500# though, was curious to compare to others set ups, I ride very fluid/light not aggressive but ride blacks etc, definitely notice pedal strikes now with 170mm cranks I suppose due to sag with the cascade actually equating to more mm at wheel etc….


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

4vdean said:


> Bike set up info, can everyone share for interest/curiosity, copy paste etc.
> 
> Frame: Druid L
> Rider weight: 92kg
> ...


interesting im only 72 kg and was running a 400lb spring on my storia before i put the cascade on. I went up to 450 with the cascade.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

phazedalx said:


> interesting im only 72 kg and was running a 400lb spring on my storia before i put the cascade on. I went up to 450 with the cascade.


Before cascade link I tried 400 425 & 450 all felt pretty much the same with little sag difference, I knewThe cascade requires a bigger spring but just haven’t got one yet hence running the 450, going to order a 500


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

4vdean said:


> Before cascade link I tried 400 425 & 450 all felt pretty much the same with little sag difference, I knewThe cascade requires a bigger spring but just haven’t got one yet hence running the 450, going to order a 500


Yeah, you def need to up the spring as recommended.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

4vdean said:


> Bike set up info, can everyone share for interest/curiosity, copy paste etc.
> 
> Frame: Druid L
> Rider weight: 92kg
> ...


How do you like the Ziggy set-up? I’ve pondered it, but wasn’t convinced.


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## illoaminati (Dec 29, 2020)

Anybody have creaking from the shock mount on the frame? None of my pivots or anything on the linkage, just the shock mount.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

illoaminati said:


> Anybody have creaking from the shock mount on the frame? None of my pivots or anything on the linkage, just the shock mount.


Front or rear? I know that at least one person has pulled the threaded insert out of the frame at the front shock mount.


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## illoaminati (Dec 29, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Front or rear? I know that at least one person has pulled the threaded insert out of the frame at the front shock mount.


Front. Oddly though it seems to be the unthreaded insert.I did some investigating and it looks to be inset almost 1mm from the carbon and was previously filled in with epoxy, which has finally broken away enough to start creaking.

Gonna grab some pics in the morning and send them off to Foridden.

This isn’t the only QC issue I’ve had with this frame but the others didn’t really matter.
1)Top tube graphics are misaligned a little and Forbidden was nice enough to send some swag my way for it.
2)One of the bearing preload washers in the linkage has a high spot and causes the linkage to bind but if I keep the washer rotated while torquing the linkage bolt down it’s a non issue.

interestingly enough I haven’t had any pivot or linkage creaking which seems common, and my stock idler bearing outlasted the idler itself.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

illoaminati said:


> Front. Oddly though it seems to be the unthreaded insert.I did some investigating and it looks to be inset almost 1mm from the carbon and was previously filled in with epoxy, which has finally broken away enough to start creaking.
> 
> Gonna grab some pics in the morning and send them off to Foridden.
> 
> ...


HUh, the unthreaded side. I'll inspect mine next time I take it apart. I had a small creak from the front shock mount area that I stopped by greasing, rather than threadlocking, the threads. BUt, it sounds like it's worth an additional look by me.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

Energ8t said:


> How do you like the Ziggy set-up? I’ve pondered it, but wasn’t convinced.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The Ziggy was great but I just went back to full 29er, I don’t shred hard enough to justify mullet I think, the biggest difference I noticed with 27.5 out back was bike turned real good on sharp medium speed turns, then I tried 29er again and noticed the improved rollover and keeping momentum speed easier.
Also once I put cascade link on with Ziggy it was instant pedal strikes with my 170mm cranks but that’s with the too light spring and max sag, 29 has fixed it somewhat but I still need to up my spring #


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## meta4x (Jul 21, 2010)

6 months on my Druid and it has been a very rewarding bike, while creating a few headaches. It's good to revisit this thread and catching up on things - I appreciate the information and opinions shared here.

Last night I bolted on a cascade link and wanted to see if there was any more user information on it here. Also relevant is the squeak that people complain of - I too have the tortured rodent!!!. Good to know about the Jank idler not being "all that" as I was considering one, so I'll wait for the NSB unit to get in stock (still want the One Up upper guide conversion through).

Despite it's foibles, I think the HP concept for a trail bike is totally proven with this frame. Previously I was riding a (L) V1 Sentinel with a CC link and I am faster on all of the trails I ride on the stock (M) Druid. It's quite possible the down sizing has played a part but there is no doubt in my mind that a HP 130mm bike out-rides a 146mm horst link across rough chunky terrain irrespective of wheelbase.

Pretty stoked to set up and ride the CC link on the Druid, the Sentinel unit was outstanding.

Question - does anyone on here ride an AXS drivetrain, and if so, do you have any b-screw adjustment issues? Thanks.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

4vdean said:


> The Ziggy was great but I just went back to full 29er, I don’t shred hard enough to justify mullet I think, the biggest difference I noticed with 27.5 out back was bike turned real good on sharp medium speed turns, then I tried 29er again and noticed the improved rollover and keeping momentum speed easier.
> Also once I put cascade link on with Ziggy it was instant pedal strikes with my 170mm cranks but that’s with the too light spring and max sag, 29 has fixed it somewhat but I still need to up my spring #


That’s why I haven’t bothered. I think I’m preferring the 29er rolling capabilities. I’ve gotten used to cornering decently on this rig.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Might be moving to a place with a bit less gnarly trails than where I am now. Wondering if anyone has a druid in places like this. There will be lots of opportunity for big alpine rides, etc. Thinking of ditching the ziggy, going to full 29. Also thinking about lighter tires/maybe no inserts? Anyone else have their druid setup for more trail and less gnar?


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

phazedalx said:


> Might be moving to a place with a bit less gnarly trails than where I am now. Wondering if anyone has a druid in places like this. There will be lots of opportunity for big alpine rides, etc. Thinking of ditching the ziggy, going to full 29. Also thinking about lighter tires/maybe no inserts? Anyone else have their druid setup for more trail and less gnar?


I've heard of guys short shocking the bike - 210x50 inline shock and running a 130mm fork. Carbon rims and lighter casing tires and it could be sub 27 lbs. I think it's about 115mm of travel and is a pretty responsive snappy bike. If you've got a L or XL you might get away with dumping the lower roller as well, or putting a deralleur pulley with a nice bearing in place of the lower roller.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

phazedalx said:


> Might be moving to a place with a bit less gnarly trails than where I am now. Wondering if anyone has a druid in places like this. There will be lots of opportunity for big alpine rides, etc. Thinking of ditching the ziggy, going to full 29. Also thinking about lighter tires/maybe no inserts? Anyone else have their druid setup for more trail and less gnar?


I live in an area where a lighter bike is advantageous most of the time, but to be honest, I have mine set more toward the gnar side (Secus and Push), but that’s because the DH sections that I have here that are rough enough and I don’t care if I climb a bit slower if I can have more fun down. I kept my air shock in case I move or ride an area requiring less. Still on full 29 and no tire inserts though. Running Assegai and Dissector for now, but may try Versus or the new Kryptotal on my new wheels (carbon rims with Ti spokes DT Swiss 350) which will drop about a pound off the bike and have less spinning weight.

Anyone tried Versus tires yet? Seen good reviews, but now sure how my current set compares. I do like the rolling of the Dissector.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

phazedalx said:


> Might be moving to a place with a bit less gnarly trails than where I am now. Wondering if anyone has a druid in places like this. There will be lots of opportunity for big alpine rides, etc. Thinking of ditching the ziggy, going to full 29. Also thinking about lighter tires/maybe no inserts? Anyone else have their druid setup for more trail and less gnar?


Tires/wheels are a big one. Stick with the DPX2 if you're running it. Going full 29 is good, too. I've seen people running mixed wheels in central Texas and it makes no sense at all.

Other than that, I think the geo can handle just about everything.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

phazedalx said:


> Might be moving to a place with a bit less gnarly trails than where I am now. Wondering if anyone has a druid in places like this. There will be lots of opportunity for big alpine rides, etc. Thinking of ditching the ziggy, going to full 29. Also thinking about lighter tires/maybe no inserts? Anyone else have their druid setup for more trail and less gnar?


 I guess mine is set up slightly more light duty. I run either EXO+ or currently Schwalbe super trail tires without inserts and a 150mm Lyrik, Code RSC brakes and GX Eagle drivetrain. I use it as my do it all bike and it works just fine. I have run an air shock but currently have a coil on it and for the most part I prefer the coil. I think the coil might be a little less efficient climbing, but I don't have an air shock to swap back to confirm. I've never really felt like the Druid is a very quick climbing bike, but I don't feel that changing parts to make it a little lighter is going to have a significant impact on that.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

RadicalPugilism said:


> I've seen people running mixed wheels in central Texas and it makes no sense at all.


we can agree to disagree on that one.

try manualing a druid or dread to get your front wheel up in an emergency situation while pointed down hill. the long chain stays that only get longer with the rearward axle path may give you a different opinion. i've been a 29er guy in CenTex for close to 10 years, but have migrated to mullet on these bikes.

I just built up a new frame. moved all of my mulleted components over. I plan to relace my rear hoop back to 29er...the new frame has 434mm chainstays and a neutral axle path as opposed to 450 and 465 on the forbiddens. my druid, also was short stroked at at 52.5mm, so probably around 124mm of rear travel whereas the new frame with a neutral axle path is at 140mm. even still, the new frame is easier to get the front wheel up, in spite of its 25mm longer reach and increased travel.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

tdc_worm said:


> we can agree to disagree on that one.
> 
> try manualing a druid or dread to get your front wheel up in an emergency situation while pointed down hill. the long chain stays that only get longer with the rearward axle path may give you a different opinion. i've been a 29er guy in CenTex for close to 10 years, but have migrated to mullet on these bikes.
> 
> I just built up a new frame. moved all of my mulleted components over. I plan to relace my rear hoop back to 29er...the new frame has 434mm chainstays and a neutral axle path as opposed to 450 and 465 on the forbiddens. my druid, also was short stroked at at 52.5mm, so probably around 124mm of rear travel whereas the new frame with a neutral axle path is at 140mm. even still, the new frame is easier to get the front wheel up, in spite of its 25mm longer reach and increased travel.


Come to think of it, I've had some close calls where having a smaller wheel out back would make sense. It's one of those rearward axle path quirks I overlooked. But I couldn't say it happened enough that it would be worth trading a full 29er for.


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## TazMini (Jun 21, 2019)

Has anyone built up a lighter Pike based Druid? Live in MidWest but travel to NWA, Colorado and SC to ride. Looking for Goldilocks bike that can do 30mile back country epic, then next day hit a black diamond with a shuttle group. I’ve got it down to Revel Rascal and Druid. Given our tight trails here the Druid looks long as I need XL. Would going Mullet and 140 Pike make it ‘agile’? (Really don’t want to buy another rear wheel though…). Coming off Spot Living link bikes and I’ve learned I am not a ‘playful’ type rider. I am a grind and hulk rider.
I have a HT and 160/160 eBike, so I have the two extremes covered.

TLDR; would Ziggy XL Druid with 150 Pike be a great all a-rounder from a recovering XCer that is a ham fisted riding style? 


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

TazMini said:


> Has anyone built up a lighter Pike based Druid? Live in MidWest but travel to NWA, Colorado and SC to ride. Looking for Goldilocks bike that can do 30mile back country epic, then next day hit a black diamond with a shuttle group. I’ve got it down to Revel Rascal and Druid. Given our tight trails here the Druid looks long as I need XL. Would going Mullet and 140 Pike make it ‘agile’? (Really don’t want to buy another rear wheel though…). Coming off Spot Living link bikes and I’ve learned I am not a ‘playful’ type rider. I am a grind and hulk rider.
> I have a HT and 160/160 eBike, so I have the two extremes covered.
> 
> TLDR; would Ziggy XL Druid with 150 Pike be a great all a-rounder from a recovering XCer that is a ham fisted riding style?
> ...


A mullet and a 140 fork sounds like it would mean a lot of pedal strikes. It’s doable though you can find a Druid with a Sid somewhere on vital.

I would just run it as light as you can get it and just be okay with having a bulky bike.


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## TazMini (Jun 21, 2019)

RadicalPugilism said:


> A mullet and a 140 fork sounds like it would mean a lot of pedal strikes. It’s doable though you can find a Druid with a Sid somewhere on vital.
> 
> I would just run it as light as you can get it and just be okay with having a bulky bike.


Yeah looked at geo of mullet 140 after posting and realized that wasn’t going to work. Had a Mullet Honeymaker and know the setup makes cornering much easier. 3 more months before Drs let me ride so plenty of time to overthink.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

TazMini said:


> Has anyone built up a lighter Pike based Druid? Live in MidWest but travel to NWA, Colorado and SC to ride. Looking for Goldilocks bike that can do 30mile back country epic, then next day hit a black diamond with a shuttle group. I’ve got it down to Revel Rascal and Druid. Given our tight trails here the Druid looks long as I need XL. Would going Mullet and 140 Pike make it ‘agile’? (Really don’t want to buy another rear wheel though…). Coming off Spot Living link bikes and I’ve learned I am not a ‘playful’ type rider. I am a grind and hulk rider.
> I have a HT and 160/160 eBike, so I have the two extremes covered.
> 
> TLDR; would Ziggy XL Druid with 150 Pike be a great all a-rounder from a recovering XCer that is a ham fisted riding style?
> ...


I don't think you will feel under gunned with the Pike. I have ridden a Pike for 6 years and a Lyrik for 3 and couldn't tell you if one is more stiff. I weigh over 200lbs too. That said my Druid has thr Lyrik on it set at 150mm. I live in the north east and ride an XL. I was a little worried about the length of the bike, but not any more. If there is tight corners I have issues with, I have issues on any bike. You get used to riding a slightly different line.


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## tdc_worm (Dec 10, 2008)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Come to think of it, I've had some close calls where having a smaller wheel out back would make sense. It's one of those rearward axle path quirks I overlooked. But I couldn't say it happened enough that it would be worth trading a full 29er for.


yeah. everyone's experience will be a bit different based off of terrain, frame size and riding style. its definitely taught me a lot about the system that is a bike being more than just the sum of it's parts.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Recently sized down from a large to a medium (im somewhere between 5'9 and 5'10). Feels so much better on the bike now. Why the hell did I ever buy a large lol


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## EvergreenCody (Mar 20, 2017)

PisgahGnar said:


> I felt exactly the same when I swapped to the Cascade Link. I'm running a DHX2 with it but it feels so much better for the way I ride and where I ride. It now really feels bottomless, so much better of a bike than my Ripmo ever was.


I'm wanting to run a DHX2 with the cascade B1 as well. Any fitment issues? I'm 215lb riding weight, which Cascade suggests a 600-650lb spring. With that big of spring I'm worried it won't fit 

Thanks!


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## EvergreenCody (Mar 20, 2017)

I'm looking to run a EXT Storia on my Druid with Cascade B1 link and Pinner Machine shop Space Shuttle Spring Spacer. 

I'm 215-220lb ride weight. I'm at a loss for spring rate. Cascade recommends 600-650. EXT's calculator says 600. 

I've seen some people saying they went down a spring rate or two with the EXT with the stock link. I'm wondering if that's still the case with the CC link, or if the EXT calc is right on when using the CC link. 

I'm also concerned about fitment. Has anyone had spring rub issues on the frame tunnel? or is the main issue just the spring retainer hitting the CC link at the base? (which should be solved with the Space Shuttle spacer)

I've got email in to EXT, CC and Pinner Machine shop, but I figured you all may have first hand experience and not just engineer estimates.

Thanks!


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

EvergreenCody said:


> I'm looking to run a EXT Storia on my Druid with Cascade B1 link and Pinner Machine shop Space Shuttle Spring Spacer.
> 
> I'm 215-220lb ride weight. I'm at a loss for spring rate. Cascade recommends 600-650. EXT's calculator says 600.
> 
> ...


no fitment issues with B1 link and pinner spacer.

im about 170lb and went from 400lbs to 475lbs when i moved to the cascade link.


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

Starting my second season with my Druid. Made some changes over the winter that have really transformed the bike. I threw on a Cascade link late last year which makes a world of difference. Followed it up with their chain guide which I'm on the fence about. I love the reduced friction, but the chain does slap more on the upper stay now. I added a set of Nobl wheels with Onyx hubs. These wheels are great, and the hubs are amazing on this bike. I also switched out my slow af e13 tires for some Bontragers. The bike is much faster now, and way more fun.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Has anyone bought and received the race guide yet? It looks nice in photos - is it as nice in person? How’s the setup and riding experience? See they’re sold out now.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dingleberrry said:


> Has anyone bought and received the race guide yet? It looks nice in photos - is it as nice in person? How’s the setup and riding experience? See they’re sold out now.


Knock on wood, but I've never had the chain come off the idler while riding (standard XT drivetrain, moderate clutch tension, standard idler, still have guide pulley). Are other folks having problems with chain retention? I have ridden on some reasonably janky descents in the 1.5 years I've had it, insofar as I reliably make poor line choices.


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## _HENDO_ (Jan 29, 2012)

Dingleberrry said:


> Has anyone bought and received the race guide yet? It looks nice in photos - is it as nice in person? How’s the setup and riding experience? See they’re sold out now.


Yeah. Ordered, shipped out next day. Arrived two days later. 
Fitted this week but not yet had the chance to ride proper chunky trail.

Main reason for buying was to stop my calf getting caught on idler/chain when riding.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

hbar said:


> Knock on wood, but I've never had the chain come off the idler while riding (standard XT drivetrain, moderate clutch tension, standard idler, still have guide pulley). Are other folks having problems with chain retention? I have ridden on some reasonably janky descents in the 1.5 years I've had it, insofar as I reliably make poor line choices.


I think drops are mostly happening in race situations - when guys are pedaling through rough sections of trail - always a risk in racing. If you’re not racing, I think even the most aggressive recreational riders aren’t experiencing this. Buddy of mine has had one drop in over two years, and it was during a race. I probably won’t bother with it - never had an issue.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

_HENDO_ said:


> Main reason for buying was to stop my calf getting caught on idler/chain when riding.


So THAT's how I got that weird bald spot on the inside of my calf. It's like a low budget really expensive but limited epilady!


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

While chasing a intermittent click/creak found two bad bearings, a rocker link pivot bearing (basically seized) and the driveside main pivot bearing (rough/notchy feeling). All of the others are still smooth. Have about 2 years and nearly 2,500 km's worth of riding so far, pretty impressed considering the biome Vancouver island resides in.


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## Bowsalekta (Jun 17, 2017)

Hi. Has anyone heard or seen any updates being planned for the Druid? Frame is now over 3 years old and I imagine some refinements are coming soon? Also does anyone have a direct comparison to the Hightower V2 vs Druid?


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## Pmrmusic26 (Apr 21, 2014)

Anyone have any druid rear triangle linkage parts they are willing to let go? I'm looking for the whole shock linkage and main pivot hardware.


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## toth.alex.j (Jan 7, 2022)

EvergreenCody said:


> I'm looking to run a EXT Storia on my Druid with Cascade B1 link and Pinner Machine shop Space Shuttle Spring Spacer.
> 
> I'm 215-220lb ride weight. I'm at a loss for spring rate. Cascade recommends 600-650. EXT's calculator says 600.
> 
> ...


I'm running the same thing. EXT Storia, Cascade Link, Pinner Space Shuttle and have no issues. I'm 195+lbs and run a 600 spring. The only fitment issue is you need a short spring. The guys at Alba in Squamish were really great. If I remember correctly the spring needs to be less than 120mm to fit the pre-load collar and space shuttle on the shock body. There is no issues clearing the link. They have some different springs that are different lengths but I was able to find a 600lbs spring that fit fine.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

The chain guide roller on my MRP bash guard always wears on the far inboard side (I'm in the low gears a lot because I'm slow), getting two grooves from the chain. The chain also (almost?) rubs on the inner plastic guide plate. The guide arm itself doesn't look bent at all (though the bash itself has been used a fair amount). 

My bash guard was installed with both a thin and a thick washer behind it, so I removed the thick washers to move the guide inboard a bit, hoping to improve wear (and maybe decrease drag a tiny bit). Tire clearance is still great. Anyone else try this? Any down sides that anyone noticed?


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Pmrmusic26 said:


> Anyone have any druid rear triangle linkage parts they are willing to let go? I'm looking for the whole shock linkage and main pivot hardware.


Forbidden would probably sell you all that stuff - could probably email and ask them.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

My Druid brothers and sisters. Behold. The solution to keep our chains from etching into our chainstays.










Sunrace 12-51t 12 speed cassette. I am gonna buy the hell out of this when it hits the market.


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## smmokan (Oct 4, 2005)

Building up a new Druid and I was hoping to get some feedback on a 150 vs 160 fork up front... I'll have the Cascade link and I also purchased a Works -1 headset as well. Specifically I'm wondering how the 160 makes the bike feel in terms of playfulness, and then if it slacks out the STA enough to feel the difference. I tend to climb some pretty steep stuff around the west, but also ride super gnarly tech whenever I can.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

smmokan said:


> Building up a new Druid and I was hoping to get some feedback on a 150 vs 160 fork up front... I'll have the Cascade link and I also purchased a Works -1 headset as well. Specifically I'm wondering how the 160 makes the bike feel in terms of playfulness, and then if it slacks out the STA enough to feel the difference. I tend to climb some pretty steep stuff around the west, but also ride super gnarly tech whenever I can.


No experience with the Cascade link but I've found that running the DPX2 over the DHX2 had the biggest effect on playfulness. Running the 160 mm/-1 just made the bike more confident at speed. I felt turning was better with the stock set up.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

RadicalPugilism said:


> No experience with the Cascade link but I've found that running the DPX2 over the DHX2 had the biggest effect on playfulness. Running the 160 mm/-1 just made the bike more confident at speed. I felt turning was better with the stock set up.


I ride some pretty techy stuff, and am running the Druid with a 160mm fork, -1 degree works headset, too. Running 150mm vs 160mm didn't make that much of a difference once you have the -1 degree headset in; I think most of the added stability comes from the head angle (and most of the loss in tight-twisty cornering too). That said, I am a bit of a plow rider, not a flicky/playful one, so maybe I don't know what I am missing?

I will add that the -1 degree makes about 8mm of ride height difference (drop) at the front end, which is perfectly offset by the 160mm fork.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I ride some pretty techy stuff, and am running the Druid with a 160mm fork, -1 degree works headset, too. Running 150mm vs 160mm didn't make that much of a difference once you have the -1 degree headset in; I think most of the added stability comes from the head angle (and most of the loss in tight-twisty cornering too). That said, I am a bit of a plow rider, not a flicky/playful one, so maybe I don't know what I am missing?
> 
> I will add that the -1 degree makes about 8mm of ride height difference (drop) at the front end, which is perfectly offset by the 160mm fork.


You're totally right. I think the biggest benefit to the 160 fork is to keep the bottom bracket up a little higher. I'm not sure it was as beneficial as the -1 angleset combined with a coil.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

Bowsalekta said:


> Hi. Has anyone heard or seen any updates being planned for the Druid? Frame is now over 3 years old and I imagine some refinements are coming soon? Also does anyone have a direct comparison to the Hightower V2 vs Druid?


x2 

I was wondering about a possible update myself as I've found available a cosmic Eggplant frameset but hesitating buying it because of this.

On the other hand,if the Druid gets an update soon,I can't imagine how long the delivery times in Europe will be..


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

If Forbidden are planning on updating the Druid soon, I wish for the following:

Prevent the chain rubbing the chainstay in the 10t cog.
Revise the link so we don't have to depend on a bolt that keeps unscrewing itself.
Revise the hanger/thru axle assembly so that it stops unscrewing itself.
Install a larger idler pulley with more teeth. That pulley takes on an incredible amount of stress and I'd guess it would wear down slower if it had more teeth.
I'm planning on keeping my Druid for a couple more years. I'm also planning on buying a second bike with 180/170 travel.


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## CorneliusN (6 mo ago)

Hey, sorry if this has been asked previously!

Im considering putting a Cascade link on my Druid with a V2 Push 11-6. Currently running a 425 coil and will increase it to 475 with the link.
Anyone running this setup who can confirm that this will fit?


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

If anybody is interested in a large, blue steel frame, I have one for sale over at PB…



https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3392367/




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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Stick went into the drivetrain on a ride today and the chain managed to wedge itself in between the chainring and the bashguard. I had to remove the idler pulley and then loosen the bolts on the bashguard trail side to get the chain out. When I got the drivetrain working again, the lower guide assembly attached to the bashguard was hitting the tire and putting out an incredible racket when the tire spun. Additionally, the lower guide seems “loose” in the vertical direction.

I pulled a bit on the lower guide and managed to bend it back a a bit and get it out of the way of the rear tire, but for the rest of the ride, the lower guide was about 10x louder than it was previously. Occasionally it also still hits the tire.

Should I just order a new lower guide and lower guide arm? Has anyone had experience with fixing these things? This is a new one for me and seems to be a vulnerable spot in the Druid drivetrain.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

My guides arm has a bit of vertical play, I believe that is normal. I suppose you could take it off and try to straighten it a bit more but honestly it will more then likely bend again even easier. Probably just easier to replace the bits that got damaged. Haven't had any issues with the lower guide on mine in two plus years other then wearing out a guide wheel. But I also tend to have luck like this so


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

meeeeep said:


> If Forbidden are planning on updating the Druid soon, I wish for the following:
> 
> Prevent the chain rubbing the chainstay in the 10t cog.
> Revise the link so we don't have to depend on a bolt that keeps unscrewing itself.
> ...


I haven't had any of the bolt loosening issues others have. I'm pretty carefully about applying grease to the shank of the bolt only and not mixing it with the loctite on the threads though. The stock idlers are an issue for sure, I'll be getting a stainless one once I wear out my back stock of alloy idlers. 
I would like to see something better done with the cable routing through the swing arm. I put mastic tape at the entry to points by main pivot and that has mostly prevented wear on both ends because the cable doesn't slide. I'd also like to see the port above the bottom bracket for the dropper cable enlarged, not an easy one to fish a cable through.
I also find the hardware to be a bit soft for the linkage, the 5mm end especially. Even using Snap On hex bits they have distorted some.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

ALS650L said:


> I haven't had any of the bolt loosening issues others have. I'm pretty carefully about applying grease to the shank of the bolt only and not mixing it with the loctite on the threads though. The stock idlers are an issue for sure, I'll be getting a stainless one once I wear out my back stock of alloy idlers.
> I would like to see something better done with the cable routing through the swing arm. I put mastic tape at the entry to points by main pivot and that has mostly prevented wear on both ends because the cable doesn't slide. I'd also like to see the port above the bottom bracket for the dropper cable enlarged, not an easy one to fish a cable through.
> I also find the hardware to be a bit soft for the linkage, the 5mm end especially. Even using Snap On hex bits they have distorted some.


I have experienced a few of these, too. I have had one derailer cable housing wear out where it rubs on the internal routing. Not sure if this is due to dirt getting in the routing tube, or if the tube itself is rough. Replacing the housing improved my shifting a bunch. I've put a zip tie as a cable stop on the housing to stop it sliding as the suspension cycles. in the next version I think external routing on the swingarm would be better.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Does anyone know the exact spec of the washers that are used to shim out the bashguard on the ISCG mount? In the course of my trail side repair I managed to lose one which is leading to a wonky angle on the bashguard and thus the chain (and may also explain some of my noise). Alternatively, can I just ditch both washers?


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Does anyone know the exact spec of the washers that are used to shim out the bashguard on the ISCG mount? In the course of my trail side repair I managed to lose one which is leading to a wonky angle on the bashguard and thus the chain (and may also explain some of my noise). Alternatively, can I just ditch both washers?


Mine had a thin (call it 1.5 mm? roughly the standard washer you'd get @ a hardware store) and a thick (2-3 mm?) washer on each. I just took out the thicker ones. The chain is more centered on the tensioner wheel, which is nice, but it now makes a very quiet putter noise as I pedal that seems new. I can measure them when I get home


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

For those that have bought the aftermarket NSB idler pulley, any difference between aluminum and SS besides wear life? Any difference in drivetrain noise, etc? This is between the two materials of the NSB idlers, not NSB SS vs stock alu idler.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

hbar said:


> Mine had a thin (call it 1.5 mm? roughly the standard washer you'd get @ a hardware store) and a thick (2-3 mm?) washer on each. I just took out the thicker ones. The chain is more centered on the tensioner wheel, which is nice, but it now makes a very quiet putter noise as I pedal that seems new. I can measure them when I get home


Thank you!


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

rpearce1475 said:


> For those that have bought the aftermarket NSB idler pulley, any difference between aluminum and SS besides wear life? Any difference in drivetrain noise, etc? This is between the two materials of the NSB idlers, not NSB SS vs stock alu idler.


I have the aftermarket SS NSB idler. I didn't notice any difference in noise at all, other than a little squeaking when the bearing was brand new that disappeared after a few rides. I've definitely noticed a wear difference, in that the SS idler shows no wear at all after ~ 1000 miles. The other difference I've noticed is that for some reason, the SS idler picks up less crap and gunk and as a result, is easier to keep clean. I'm not sure why that is - maybe the SS material is less prone to collecting gunk.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> I have the aftermarket SS NSB idler. I didn't notice any difference in noise at all, other than a little squeaking when the bearing was brand new that disappeared after a few rides. I've definitely noticed a wear difference, in that the SS idler shows no wear at all after ~ 1000 miles. The other difference I've noticed is that for some reason, the SS idler picks up less crap and gunk and as a result, is easier to keep clean. I'm not sure why that is - maybe the SS material is less prone to collecting gunk.


Thanks!


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Before I completely freak out about this, I am hoping maybe someone else has dealt with this on the Druid. I was trying to remove my Push Elevensix to swap the Fox DPS back in temporarily and my shock bolts have become completely stuck half way out. There was some creaking from the frame while first unthreading them - now they are stuck in this position and the bike is effectively "bricked" and unrideable. When I rotate the shock bolt further, the bearings on the shock itself also rotate - I am unable to pull the bolt from this position. Even worse, I am also unable to thread the bolt back in - it now simply rotates in place. Any thoughts? Has anyone seen this before? I'm terrified that the shock bolt socket has become unbonded somehow.

The same issue also occurred on the bolt threaded into the linkage, at the other end of the shock, which makes me think it isn't an issue specific to the bonded socket.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

This has happened to me before with an EXT Storia. I just pulled on the screw really hard to get it through the shock eyelets.



Dabs For Everyone said:


> Before I completely freak out about this, I am hoping maybe someone else has dealt with this on the Druid. I was trying to remove my Push Elevensix to swap the Fox DPS back in temporarily and my shock bolts have become completely stuck half way out. There was some creaking from the frame while first unthreading them - now they are stuck in this position and the bike is effectively "bricked" and unrideable. When I rotate the shock bolt further, the bearings on the shock itself also rotate - I am unable to pull the bolt from this position. Even worse, I am also unable to thread the bolt back in - it now simply rotates in place. Any thoughts? Has anyone seen this before? I'm terrified that the shock bolt socket has become unbonded somehow.
> 
> The same issue also occurred on the bolt threaded into the linkage, at the other end of the shock, which makes me think it isn't an issue specific to the bonded socket.
> 
> View attachment 1993881


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

meeeeep said:


> This has happened to me before with an EXT Storia. I just pulled on the screw really hard to get it through the shock eyelets.


I have pulled really goddamn hard, including with vicegrip pliers, to no avail. I'm a little worried about trying to apply even more force at this point.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I would try contacting Push Industries to see what they think. The eyelets tend to be really tight at first to minimize future play.



Dabs For Everyone said:


> I have pulled really goddamn hard, including with vicegrip pliers, to no avail. I'm a little worried about trying to apply even more force at this point.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

I was at least able to thread the bolt on the linkage end back in and tighten it. The front bolt is still stuck.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Not on the Druid, but I had this exact thing happen on a Norco Range. Turns out that the bolt was very slightly bent from a hard landing, and wouldn't pass back out through the spacers. I replaced the bolt and it fixed the problem, but it was a PITA to get out.
The front bolt on the Druid is super scary for this scenario, because you can't see if it's still threaded in, and I know at least one person on this forum has pulled the threaded side right out of the frame


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> I was at least able to thread the bolt on the linkage end back in and tighten it. The front bolt is still stuck.


Maybe you mentioned this, but are you able to thread it back in? maybe you would have to (gently!) tap it to get started?


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

hbar said:


> Maybe you mentioned this, but are you able to thread it back in? maybe you would have to (gently!) tap it to get started?


I'm not able to thread it back in, and it does at least appear to be fully unthreaded, in that the shock now moves a bit when you lift the front triangle of the bike off the ground.

Tapping the bolt gently doesn't put it back into place and doesn't enable me to rethread it. It's really stuck in the position shown in the photo.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Push customer service was unhelpful. Bike has gone to the shop to see if they can figure out some voodoo method to tap it out. The hidden shock nut is officially my least favorite thing about this frame design.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

That's unfortunate that Push wasn't helpful. Judging by your photos the bolt is disengaged from the threads in the frame and linkage and stuck in the shock hardware. When I had the stock DPX2 I had it out countless times and never had an issue with bolts.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

ALS650L said:


> That's unfortunate that Push wasn't helpful. Judging by your photos the bolt is disengaged from the threads in the frame and linkage and stuck in the shock hardware. When I had the stock DPX2 I had it out countless times and never had an issue with bolts.


Same story here with the DPX2 - took it out a bunch of times for maintenance and never had an issue. This was my first time pulling the Push for the same reason - serves me right for thinking it would be a five minute job I guess.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

This story has a happy ending - the shop was able to get the shock bolts out, and the bolts, the frame and the push are undamaged.

The lesson learned here is that despite the frame shipping with installed frame bolts with blue loctite on the threads and NO grease anywhere, I should have wiped off the loctite and fully greased them when I installed the Push, no matter what. That’s on me.

In other news, it’s been really fun to switch back to the DPX2 for awhile, which was the whole reason I ended up here. I spent most of the season on the Push, which was wonderful, especially in Ashland in June. Going back to the DPX2 it feels like a whole different bike, and fun in a whole other way - much more fun for the dry, pedally XC days. I can’t say that either mode is strictly better - it’s like having two bikes in one!


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

For those running Cascade links on their Druids, what shock are you using? Looking at an upgrade from the DPX2 and considering either high volume air can (Ohlins TTX2 air or fox float x2) or coil (ext storia only, fox dhx2 doesn't fit with the spring needed for my weight)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Anyone here running a Vesper hub, or a Hydra? Or something else with almost instantaneous engagement? Does this mess with the driveline? Put extra pressure on the idler or any other component? Does it compromise suspension activeness?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Anyone here running a Vesper hub, or a Hydra? Or something else with almost instantaneous engagement? Does this mess with the driveline? Put extra pressure on the idler or any other component? Does it compromise suspension activeness?


I'm on a 1/1 which is 4degrees/90POE. As far as I can tell it never causes a problem. I've got a Storia, and it's ludicrously plush for so little travel.

Pretty sure that, if you're pedalling, chain force has almost zero effect. This is due to the upper idler making chain force travel parallel to the swingarm, and through a point on the axis described by the main pivot axle.

You can verify by compressing the suspension; if the pedals don't kick back, then hub engagement won't matter. The more they kick back, the more that engagement can cause an issue.

Just to prove to myself that I wasn't full of ****, I went and did that test: The druid has _zero_ visible pedal kickback under compression. Therefore, force on the pedals is isolated from suspension movement. Weight transfer can still cause bob, as can the vector of force applied by the tire to the ground (which is the only place the Druid gets antisquat, I guess), but pedaling force on the cranks won't impact suspension action.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Replaced my lower roller and I’m curious how tight the screw on the lower guide pulley should be. Fully tightening it stops the roller from rotating which seems wrong. So I guess right up to that point? Backing off just a bit more than that makes the guide loose so I’m curious how well it will stay adjusted correctly.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Replaced my lower roller and I’m curious how tight the screw on the lower guide pulley should be. Fully tightening it stops the roller from rotating which seems wrong. So I guess right up to that point? Backing off just a bit more than that makes the guide loose so I’m curious how well it will stay adjusted correctly.


The wheel I have has a bearing and two plastic discs that made it difficult to overtighten--the discs press on the bearing hub. I guess I'd check that you have both discs and that your bearing isn't seized? Unlikely on a new one.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Haven't seen this posted yet, also posted to the Dreadnought page. Looks like Cascade quietly released an updated version of the druid/dreadnought link to improve shock clearances. I just purchased one to replace the B1 link on my druid so I can run a larger air shock. 









Forbidden Link C1 | US | Cascade Components


For both the Druid and Dreadnought this link adds a significant amount of progression.




cascadecomponents.bike


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

rpearce1475 said:


> Haven't seen this posted yet, also posted to the Dreadnought page. Looks like Cascade quietly released an updated version of the druid/dreadnought link to improve shock clearances. I just purchased one to replace the B1 link on my druid so I can run a larger air shock.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I may call them to see if it is compatible with the last gen 11-6. I saw a guy on my home trails who loved his Cascade link with his Druid (and stock air shock). I guess I would also have to figure out what spring to use, if I go this route. I had a 450 included with the 11-6 but subsequently purchased a 425, which I have been running ever since.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATTN ZIGGY LINKERS:

1. Are you happier overall running your Druid with a mullet wheel set?

2. Are there any material downsides?

3. Have any of you gone down the mullet path, only to later convert back to 29/29 non-mullet? If so, why?

Thanks!


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Druid did great in Telluride and now gonna try out MSA. So stoked to have this bike.

@mtnbkrmike I'd like to swap all the parts off my SX and run the druid with the cascade/ziggy and 160mm fork. I really like how the mullet combo performed on the commencal once i got stack height and stem length sorted out.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Has anyone tried replacing the pivot bearings themselves? Did you remove the derailleur and caliper?


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

mtnbkrmike said:


> ATTN ZIGGY LINKERS:
> 
> 1. Are you happier overall running your Druid with a mullet wheel set?
> 
> ...


I ran the Ziggy link for a few weeks. I did like it, but was not blown away. It seemed to feel a little snappier in the turns, but to me the Druid feels overall more balanced with 29er front and rear. That said, I tried the Ziggy only for a few rides and then had to put the 27.5 wheel back on the original bike, so may not have given it a full fair shake. Now...Cascade link is a different story and totally love it, have been using it for several months now on the stock DPX shock and no going back to the standard link.


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## 4vdean (Nov 6, 2014)

rpearce1475 said:


> For those running Cascade links on their Druids, what shock are you using? Looking at an upgrade from the DPX2 and considering either high volume air can (Ohlins TTX2 air or fox float x2) or coil (ext storia only, fox dhx2 doesn't fit with the spring needed for my weight)


I’m running a storia (with pinner spacer) with the cascade link, fits with the 1st version cascade which was cheaper too, I went from a 450 spring to a 500 for this set up, storia was great before but I like it even better with the cascade……


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> Has anyone tried replacing the pivot bearings themselves? Did you remove the derailleur and caliper?


I changed out the linkage bearings easily enough, but my slide hammer bearing puller didn’t budge the bearings without enough force to be concerning, so I am fabbing up some custom puller parts to fit. Will post back when I try them out.

TL;DR: bearings require a good non-impact blind puller to change.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I changed out the linkage bearings easily enough, but my slide hammer bearing puller didn’t budge the bearings without enough force to be concerning, so I am fabbing up some custom puller parts to fit. Will post back when I try them out.
> 
> TL;DR: bearings require a good non-impact blind puller to change.


Please do, I’m curious and been looking into changing out bearing sometime in the near future.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I’m back to say that this is season 4 on my Druid.

…and I am as happy now as I have ever been with it.

I have been riding it a minimum of 3 days a week, every week (well, every non-snow filled week), basically since I got it. It’s been to every decent riding destination in BC and Alberta numerous times. I have no desire to dump it for something else. I’m going to keep riding it until it dies, or until I lose interest.

Every single thing with it right now is firing 10/10. I’m probably in the best shape I’ve been in for a while too, so that helps. But I think I’m in my best shape, at least in part, because I love to ride that bike.

I have no desire to touch a thing on it, including the suspension. I do have a Ziggy link that I haven’t used. I guess maybe I can pick up a mullet wheelset and try that. But apart from that, I’m 100% there with it.

I hope you guys are enjoying yours as much as I am mine.

PS - there has been the very odd poster who goes out of his way to say he bought a Druid and he hated it. And that anyone who enjoys it is deluded and “has drank the Kool-Aid.” I am so far removed from that sentiment. I would have no problem replacing it if it was justified. I feel no reason to. To the contrary, at this time at least, I’m hoping it lives forever.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

I’m certainly very happy on season 2! Especially with the Push shock it’s quite a bike.

The only things that could convince me to move on from it is finding a long travel 29er I get on with, or something better with the SRAM UDH (that prototype SRAM direct mount drivetrain is very intriguing). 



mtnbkrmike said:


> I’m back to say that this is season 4 on my Druid.
> 
> …and I am as happy now as I have ever been with it.
> 
> ...


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

mtnbkrmike said:


> It’s been to every decent riding destination in BC and Alberta numerous times.


Have you been to Maple Mountain in Duncan yet? The Xylem climb is hands down the best climb I've ever done.


https://www.trailforks.com/trails/lower-xylem/



Xylem lower, middle, and upper. Highly recommended.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> Have you been to Maple Mountain in Duncan yet? The Xylem climb is hands down the best climb I've ever done.
> 
> 
> https://www.trailforks.com/trails/lower-xylem/
> ...


No I have not. At least, I don’t think I have. But I hope to be returning to hit Cumberland before the snow flies. If I do, I will definitely check it out then. Thanks.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

There is a riding area near Cumberland that is a must ride spot if you have never ridden it.
Also I love me some Sharkleberry


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Outlawed said:


> There is a riding area near Cumberland that is a must ride spot if you have never ridden it.
> Also I love me some Sharkleberry


I have ridden a bunch of different areas on the island, including with the OP of this epic thread who, unfortunately passed away on the Cumberland trails after suffering a heart attack. I’m all ears. I promise to behave, and keep whatever you tell me semi-secret 😉


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

mtnbkrmike said:


> I’m back to say that this is season 4 on my Druid.
> 
> …and I am as happy now as I have ever been with it.
> 
> ...


Curious what your current build is on your Druid. I'm at season two on mine and really enjoy, planning to keep it at least one or two more.

There does seem to be a couple that are very vocal here and elsewhere about not liking it and continuing to beat the dead horse about it. Just like any bike, it isn't for everyone.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ALS650L said:


> Curious what your current build is on your Druid. I'm at season two on mine and really enjoy, planning to keep it at least one or two more.
> 
> 
> There does seem to be a couple that are very vocal here and elsewhere about not liking it and continuing to beat the dead horse about it. Just like any bike, it isn't for everyone.


I’m not convinced one or more of them even owned one. Or owned one long enough to properly assess it. One owned it a matter of a few weeks. Curiously, I never saw a single photo accompany any of the posts.

My build is nothing out of the ordinary:

Factory 36 at 150, GRIP2 with a Luftkappe
PUSH 11-6, 425 lb spring
XX1 AXS
Next R crank
XO1 cassette
NSB SS idler (my sixth and hopefully last idler, at least for a while)
Factory Transfer dropper with Wolftooth remote and Specialized Power saddle
Guide Ultimate brakes with 200/180 rotors and SRAM sintered pads
Non-mullet We Are One Insiders (non-EXP DT 240s with 36 tooth Star Ratchet) or We Are One Agents (DT 350s with 36 tooth Star Ratchet) (I own and run both wheelsets)
2.5 MaxxGrip EXO+ Assegai/2.4 MaxxTerra EXO+ Dissector (if the side lugs go on this Dissector as fast as they did on the last one, I will be moving back to a DHR2)
Next R bar, 20mm rise, at 180mm, with Death Grip grips
Turbine stem, 50mm
Burgtec axle
Original frame bearings (waiting with a spare set in hand)
Frame was Ride Wrapped before it was built
Fun Fact: my frame had been ordered by Dustin Adams at We Are One - there were no more large blacks in the first production run - he and Jordan Hodder had bought black frames - selflessly, after I told him I was not a fan of the gloss moss, Dustin gave me his large black frame and got a gloss moss instead https://m.pinkbike.com/news/not-a-typical-kamloops-video-jeff-kendall-weeds-meets-the-kbra.html














































































EDIT: all those photos were taken on trails 45 minutes from my driveway 👍


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Hey guys, just been catching up on the forum (last login Feb '22) and very interesting.
You guys may remember my druid build - The photo I took last week is in its current form (very few changes) I am in my 2nd year of ownership and here in the southern hemisphere, I will be looking forward to starting the 3rd summer on this rig in a few months - this is my primary mountain bike, in addition to my dad's ebike that I borrow and other more road-based bikes 
This was built on 23 Dec '20 which is mid-summer for us, but my first decent day out on the bike wasn't until Jan '21 - over this time I haven't changed much but this is what has happened if anyone is mildly interested.

This began life as a mullet, so I am yet to ride this bike as a full 29, although I had test ridden a druid as a 29/29, and am extremely happy with mullet/ziggy link set up - would not change.
I run this with a 160mm Fox 36 (with no other adjustments) I have briefly tried 150mm as recommended by some people I knew and happily carried on with 160mm. What I have done is install a Vorsprung Smashpot - this is phenomenal and can't recommend this enough.

Some context:
The riding I end up doing is regrettably far too many chairlift-assisted/park laps, with a few (not enough) larger days in Craigieburn and Hanmer Springs, with some trips down to Queenstown and Wanaka around 4/5 times a year. Although I do incorporate some pedaling/climbing into my local 'park' rides where I live in Christchurch this is quite convenient to supplement what would be a big day with a chairlift assist or two. I would say 70% of my riding would be in the summer, (of which is still only around 2-3 rides a week) which reduces my annual distance a bit, and I happen to live a ways from the trails, as I drive to our 'Port Hills' for my regular riding, rather than riding - which means this bike does not see the sheer kilometers/miles of riding a lot of the contributors on here achieve - BUT as any New Zealand reader on here will know, my local Christchurch Adventure Park, does seem to have some of the most unforgiving (read: harsh on bikes and forearms) trails around, combined with our signature 'moondust' and blown out trails all summer long, this bike does get a very hard life - this is also not helped by the owner's skill level, weight of around 100ish kg (220/230lbs in freedom units) line choices, and maintenance! When it's all said and done, I estimate the bike to have done just over 3000km and just over 200 scans on my lift pass at the park! (hard to know accurate mileage as I often don't record short 15 or so km after work rides etc)

During this time I have racked up the following rap sheet:
3 broken carbon rear wheels (Warranty replacements - we won't elaborate on this issue - long story) I am now running a We Are One Strife rear wheel with no issues
Countless broken XT lever blades - which have been fixed by the FLO Motorsports CNC blades (highly recommend)
3 XT Derailleurs (poor line choice and crashes)
1 broken axle (heard this was a common problem, but this was 1 ride back after a particularly heavy crash so didn't pursue it)
Multiple broken rear fenders - again, this is an abuse/rider problem with crashing 😂 I don't see this as an FBCO problem
On my 2nd idler pulley (only just) and 3rd e13 LG1 lower roller
I can't remember how many chains I have used but I think I'm on my second
I have had all the gremlins relating to pivot hardware coming undone (including the central main pivot) and make a habit of checking the rear axle and those 2 pivot bolts that are notorious on a regular basis. Other than this I find it hard to actually come up with any major issues and putting aside the pivot bolts, which although others have this issue too - my bike does see a lot of harsh park laps/larger hits/crashes/vibrations so I haven't been too annoyed with these - I acknowledge I am hard on bikes, I always have been across multiple brands. Still, no major issues to do with the Druid itself, more than enough with other brand's parts, and these are mainly all abuse related.

Current parts list:
160mm Fox 36 w/ Smashpot
Fox DHX2 with 500lb SLS Spring
Fox Transfer 150
VHS Chain slap tape
Industry 9 Hydra Hubs with a WAO Strife rear wheel and Wheelworks Flite V3 Front wheel
Shimano XT Drivetrain (Raceface Atlas crank)
Shimano XT 4-pot brakes with 203mm rotors - FLO motorsport CNC blades
Renthal 35mm alloy fatbar with i9 stem
Maxxis Assegai 2.6 F with Minion DHR 2.4 R
ODI Longneck lockons
Burgtec Penthouse flat pedals
Fidlock bottle system (cannot recommend)

Do I want a new bike? No! I absolutely love this bike, it's a pleasure to ride and even though I waste too much time on pinkbike lusting after the newest creations, the weekend rolls around and this thing truly does rip. I do ride a pretty varied amount of different trail styles, but tend to favour trails with jumps, and this bike is certainly not afraid of some decent hits, and as all the cliché marketing jargon will tell you, is very stable at high-speed, does love to eat up chunk and offer an all-round balanced ride. This bike most likely isn't a quiver killer for a lot of people but it certainly is for me. I have previously come from an Evil Insurgent (1st Gen) and I daresay this bike is more capable and I certainly enjoy riding it more. I have not found this bike to be the most spritely of climbers, but this does not bother me, at my fitness levels I don't think it would make much difference, if at all.

I particularly like how playful and poppy the druid is - for an HP-style design. FBCO certainly got their kinematics and geo right. I have ridden the dreadnought and about 2-3 other HP bikes and prefer the druid.

There are a few things like the pivot hardware, axles, chain rub, spots for debris, idler size, etc that I would love to see updated but overall this bike is fantastic.
I think that covers it all - If you made it through this - thanks for coming to my ted talk


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

blackaptur-photo said:


> ..,.
> Countless broken XT lever blades - which have been fixed by the FLO Motorsports CNC blades (highly recommend)
> ...
> Multiple broken rear fenders - again, this is an abuse/rider problem with crashing 😂 I don't see this as an FBCO problem
> ...


I appreciate the run-down. I also quickly bent & broke those XT levers, and got the FLO levers out of supply chain desperation. But, it turns out I really like them, and also recommend them--they've taken a fair amount of abuse from trees and the ground in the last year+. 

How did you break the fender in a crash? it seems so safely tucked into the frame..you crash properly I guess


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

hbar said:


> I appreciate the run-down. I also quickly bent & broke those XT levers, and got the FLO levers out of supply chain desperation. But, it turns out I really like them, and also recommend them--they've taken a fair amount of abuse from trees and the ground in the last year+.
> 
> How did you break the fender in a crash? it seems so safely tucked into the frame..you crash properly I guess


Yep the FLO levers are very good. mine have eaten a bit of dirt and tree! 

So I have broken 3 fenders in total (all of them being the summer fenders, I have a winter fender on now) The first one, I believe was a case of me over-tightening it and breaking it without realizing, the other two were products of crashes - the first one I believe was taken out by a branch, it was a high-speed crash down the side of a trail and the other I still don't really know, it was just discovered when I was cleaning/checking my bike post-ride, which I had a small rag in.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

On the one hand, I wish those FLO levers would work with XTR 9120 brakes. OTOH, why do I have XTR brakes?


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## Enn Zed (Apr 24, 2010)

@blackaptur-photo a timely post - just moved back to CHCH after 14 years overseas and wondered how many other Druids I would see here! Mine is still in its moving box, but hoping to rebuild the Cosmic Ziggy and get out for some CAP laps soon!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Hey guys, just been catching up on the forum (last login Feb '22) and very interesting.
> You guys may remember my druid build - The photo I took last week is in its current form (very few changes) I am in my 2nd year of ownership and here in the southern hemisphere, I will be looking forward to starting the 3rd summer on this rig in a few months - this is my primary mountain bike, in addition to my dad's ebike that I borrow and other more road-based bikes
> This was built on 23 Dec '20 which is mid-summer for us, but my first decent day out on the bike wasn't until Jan '21 - over this time I haven't changed much but this is what has happened if anyone is mildly interested.
> 
> ...


Nice set-up (and photos)! I’m running my Fox at 160 too, but with a Secus. Curious how the Smashpot would compare, but the Secus has not disappointed at all. Running coil in rear as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Enn Zed said:


> @blackaptur-photo a timely post - just moved back to CHCH after 14 years overseas and wondered how many other Druids I would see here! Mine is still in its moving box, but hoping to rebuild the Cosmic Ziggy and get out for some CAP laps soon!


awesome! CAP isn't in what I would describe as its best shape at the moment with multiple closures but with some recent revamps of connecting trails and other things, in a few weeks I think it will be at near best conditions! My favorite trail would have to be 'Pork and Puha', closely followed by the top half of 'Name This Trail' into lower 'Gung Ho'


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Have to chime in and say how impressed i've been with the druid. Took it to Le Massif two weeks ago, and the bike was PERFECT for there. The druid can carry so much speed when you just let it go. So much so i misjudged a gap and slid off the trail at speed and down a hill. The only damage to the bike was the CSU that ricocheted off the rocks on the way down. Gonna do a quick epoxy filler repair until I get back to the USA. For MSA, I still prefer my 180mm rig over the druid and would really like to have DH bike instead. This has more to do with my skills, or lack of at times rather than the bike.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Did you guys see the review of the Contra MC? I kinda want one for the longer travel.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

meeeeep said:


> Did you guys see the review of the Contra MC? I kinda want one for the longer travel.


That steampunk beast makes the Druid look conventional 🤣 Owning that bike, you would have to add an hour when budgeting riding time, to take into account the endless questions you will have to field on the trail 😝









All kidding aside, great review:


https://m.pinkbike.com/news/field-test-contra-mc-the-steel-steamroller.html



I honestly have no desire to buy any more bikes right now. I am still amazed with the Druid, and when I want to eat a little humble pie, I reach for my Honzo. Those two bikes deliver a good 1-2 punch for me.









@meeeeep I do think though that you should buy one!!!


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## AlpineVulpine (Feb 6, 2021)

New Druid colours were just released. I love my Cosmic Eggplant, but both of the new colours (New Growth and Midnight Velvet) are pretty awesome. In some ways they are a little more subtle with the green on green and blue on blue.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

meeeeep said:


> Did you guys see the review of the Contra MC? I kinda want one for the longer travel.


It's pretty novel for sure. I'd do a dreadnought with a cascade link before that, or the norco.

I'm waiting for an aluminum framed high pivot with something in the 180mm range to replace my SX with.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

Dang. I don’t want to like that green, but I really like that green.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> It's pretty novel for sure. I'd do a dreadnought with a cascade link before that, or the norco.
> 
> I'm waiting for an aluminum framed high pivot with something in the 180mm range to replace my SX with.


https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-kavenz-vhp-16.html like this? They make one with 180mm travel too


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

AlpineVulpine said:


> New Druid colours were just released. I love my Cosmic Eggplant, but both of the new colours (New Growth and Midnight Velvet) are pretty awesome. In some ways they are a little more subtle with the green on green and blue on blue.


I just really wish they did the blue with chrome decals


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I changed out the linkage bearings easily enough, but my slide hammer bearing puller didn’t budge the bearings without enough force to be concerning, so I am fabbing up some custom puller parts to fit. Will post back when I try them out.
> 
> TL;DR: bearings require a good non-impact blind puller to change.


Update; pulled out the swingarm linkage bearings yesterday. I'd been having some 'clicking' happening under compression, for nearly a year, but it was really sporadic and I could never find the source. Recently, it turned into a much louder clicking and was happening on every cycle of the suspension. Turns out it was a cracked ball on the right hand side of the swingarm lower linkage bearings. Both sides were somewhat worn.

I was originally going to 3D print a custom puller, but I changed it out with just a 30mm socket, and a 15mm socket head capscrew and a nut. The capscrew goes on the inside to pull it out, and the socket goes on the outside. The bearing popped out like butter. I was originally concerned because my slide-hammer puller was having _zero_ impact (HA!), and it felt like I was kicking the crap out of the swingarm, but this method worked fine.

So yeah, if you're procrastinating on the service, at least do those lower swingarm bearings, because they seem to be the place that takes the most abuse. The bearings in the linkage arm were done too, but they came out easily with a punch. That was a half-beer job.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

armyofevilrobots said:


> Update; pulled out the swingarm linkage bearings yesterday. I'd been having some 'clicking' happening under compression, for nearly a year, but it was really sporadic and I could never find the source. Recently, it turned into a much louder clicking and was happening on every cycle of the suspension. Turns out it was a cracked ball on the right hand side of the swingarm lower linkage bearings. Both sides were somewhat worn.
> 
> I was originally going to 3D print a custom puller, but I changed it out with just a 30mm socket, and a 15mm socket head capscrew and a nut. The capscrew goes on the inside to pull it out, and the socket goes on the outside. The bearing popped out like butter. I was originally concerned because my slide-hammer puller was having _zero_ impact (HA!), and it felt like I was kicking the crap out of the swingarm, but this method worked fine.
> 
> So yeah, if you're procrastinating on the service, at least do those lower swingarm bearings, because they seem to be the place that takes the most abuse. The bearings in the linkage arm were done too, but they came out easily with a punch. That was a half-beer job.


My bike is displaying these exact symptoms (2 years of riding). Have the bearings, just need to find the tools. I think between your suggestion and a few tools I have, I can do it ASAP.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

I bought an altalt bearing puller set. Alt Alt Bike Products

Now I just need to summon the will to replace my bearings. 

[mention]armyofevilrobots [/mention] did you remove your swingarm, brakes and derailleur before popping the bearings out?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

meeeeep said:


> I bought an altalt bearing puller set. Alt Alt Bike Products
> 
> Now I just need to summon the will to replace my bearings.


I just bought the altalt set too. I haven't done my bearings but it appears it will work just fine. I think you could do the bearings without removing the swing arm, it may take some ingenuity to hold in place, but it looks doable.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

We should have a group twitch stream where we fumble around our bearing replacements as a group. IF anyone misaligns a pressing, we all have to chug our drinks.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I bought an altalt bearing puller set. Alt Alt Bike Products
> 
> Now I just need to summon the will to replace my bearings.
> 
> [mention]armyofevilrobots [/mention] did you remove your swingarm, brakes and derailleur before popping the bearings out?


None of the above. I took out my wheel, removed my cranks, the front shock bolt, and lifted the swing arm by bungeeing it to the seat rails. You’ll have to remove the wheel for clearance.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> I bought an altalt bearing puller set. Alt Alt Bike Products
> 
> Now I just need to summon the will to replace my bearings.
> 
> [mention]armyofevilrobots [/mention] did you remove your swingarm, brakes and derailleur before popping the bearings out?


Oh nice… I like that set so simple and I can support a small business. Love the DIY-ish approach but using acetyl. Seems pretty smart and totally useful for the number of frame bearing I need to change for my own use. Thanks for the suggestion. Bought one already.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Did mine when it was frame only. Used a 3/8 extension and pretty sure a 17mm thinwall socket. Could be wrong about the socket size though. Feels a little unnerving driving the bearings in/out with a hammer, but if you have some 2x4s wrapped in cardboard and towels, it supports the frame snugly enough to avoid damage. Drive the bearings as straight in and out as you can to avoid elongating the holes in the frame. 

Or you could buy the proper tools


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## tom1759 (Jan 6, 2022)

FYI All - Looks like an end of summer sale is on now for the Druid (GX going for $5024, frame for $2437)! I'm guessing they come out with the new model year version of the frame after this sale?


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## QuebecDirt (Aug 8, 2014)

Morning guys.
Hope everyone is doing great.
I've been reading a lot on this Druid forum lately. 
I'm selling my large Ripmo 2019 and looking to join the Forbidden family !!
I'm 6ft1 and I'm kinda in between sizes in my opinion. I won't be able to test ride (sadly) before I buy a frameset..

First question: Should I go large or XL with the Druid ?
Second question: I want to put a 160 fork on that bad boy. Is there something I should know before installing it ? 160F/142R with the Cascade Link is what I'm aiming for. Make the bike touch Enduro/All-Mountain territory..

Thanks guys and have a awesome day !
Charles


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

QuebecDirt said:


> Morning guys.
> Hope everyone is doing great.
> I've been reading a lot on this Druid forum lately.
> I'm selling my large Ripmo 2019 and looking to join the Forbidden family !!
> ...


XL without a doubt. I'm 5'10 and feel a little cramped (for my taste) on the L . 

I have the cascade with a 150mm and a works 2* headset. You're welcome to check it out. Where are you in Quebec? I'm staying at Monte Sainte Anne for the next month.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

QuebecDirt said:


> Morning guys.
> Hope everyone is doing great.
> I've been reading a lot on this Druid forum lately.
> I'm selling my large Ripmo 2019 and looking to join the Forbidden family !!
> ...


Sizing - I am 6'2 and I am happy on the XL, partially because of low stack height on the L. 6'1 - 6'2" is the tweener height on the Druid size range. I know another local rider who has a Druid who is 6', and he says that he's happy on the L. The reach is a little hard to compare with some other geos on numbers because of the slightly slacker seat angle. All that said, I would recommend XL.

160 fork should work fine. I tried both and found it to be more balanced for my riding with a 150 fork, but if I was doing shuttle runs a lot more often I might consider 160.

Last thing to consider is that the Druid is on sale right now - either a great time to buy, since you save $1000 on the frame - or a terrible time, since they're probably about to launch v2.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Sizing - I am 6'2 and I am happy on the XL, partially because of low stack height on the L. 6'1 - 6'2" is the tweener height on the Druid size range. I know another local rider who has a Druid who is 6', and he says that he's happy on the L. The reach is a little hard to compare with some other geos on numbers because of the slightly slacker seat angle. All that said, I would recommend XL.
> 
> 160 fork should work fine. I tried both and found it to be more balanced for my riding with a 150 fork, but if I was doing shuttle runs a lot more often I might consider 160.
> 
> Last thing to consider is that the Druid is on sale right now - either a great time to buy, since you save $1000 on the frame - or a terrible time, since they're probably about to launch v2.


I got a buddy whos a dealer up in Canada - he says the V2 is a way off still. Some mumbo jumbo about development time in Taiwan wherever the frames are made. Anyway, we've seen no leaks of anything new - so I doubt it's in the works this year. My $0.02.

Also, Quebec Dirt - if you're XL, the frame prices on XLs on the website are pretty good right now.. worth a look if you have the chops to build the bike yourself. Who's your dealer out there though - I think they have access to the same pricing.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

LBS in eastern Quebec who sell forbidden. I've seen one Dreadnought and two Druids in the wild over the last two weeks.









Boreal Bike Shop


Atelier de mécanique vélo professionnel Réparation de vélo de montagne et route



borealbikeshop.com


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## QuebecDirt (Aug 8, 2014)

Thanks for all the replies. I'm quite far from Boréal Bike Shop and Mont-Ste-Anne sadly..
I kinda like a playfull bike that I can flick and bounce on everything so I feel like the large would be more appropriate.

The geo on the large Ripmo V1 is very close to the large Druid. I'm comfortable on it so I think large makes sense.
If anyone else wants to give me infos about the sizing of the Druid please let me know.
With the discount I'll probably order tomorrow.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

QuebecDirt said:


> I kinda like a playfull bike that I can flick and bounce on everything


As an owner of two high pivots, these may not the bikes for you. IMHO, HSP is more of a point N shoot kinda ride.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

hey guys, a couple questions:

sizing: I'm 5'9" and currently on a V1 Evil Insurgent medium. Looks like the medium Druid is about 10mm longer and lg 30mm longer? I'm leaning towards the medium as my Insurgent feels good to me. just curious of those who sized up? the biggest concern to me is the extra ST length in the lg, I've got a short inseam at 30inch. 

color: does the brownstone look more grey or brown in person? Trying to decide between the XT build or the purple frameset.

Is the voodoo witchcraft that good? You guys still happy on the Druid? 

I really like how the Delta feels on Evils. Also rode/ride older Turner DW bikes. Want to try something new.
Other bikes I was looking at was the Rascal and the Scor 4060 LT/ST. This will also be my first time on a 29er

This will be my trail bike and occasional park bike for SoCal. I still have an mullet 27/26 DH bike for more gnarly bike days

thanks


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

QuebecDirt said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I'm quite far from Boréal Bike Shop and Mont-Ste-Anne sadly..
> I kinda like a playfull bike that I can flick and bounce on everything so I feel like the large would be more appropriate.
> 
> The geo on the large Ripmo V1 is very close to the large Druid. I'm comfortable on it so I think large makes sense.
> ...


I am 5'9 on a L Druid also have a L Ripmo V1, I run a shorter stem on the Ripmo as it feel's slightly longer, as for playful the Ripmo is way more playful, Druid is a lot smoother on the rough, overall I prefer the Druid for the trails I ride steep rooty tech.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

rhynohead said:


> hey guys, a couple questions:
> 
> sizing: I'm 5'9" and currently on a V1 Evil Insurgent medium. Looks like the medium Druid is about 10mm longer and lg 30mm longer? I'm leaning towards the medium as my Insurgent feels good to me. just curious of those who sized up? the biggest concern to me is the extra ST length in the lg, I've got a short inseam at 30inch.


I'm 5'10 with a 30-31ish inseam and ride a large with a 150mm PNW loam dropper. A medium or large will be fine IMHO. If you're used to riding a smaller geo medium 27.5, I'd recommend the medium druid as its a 29 and will feel bigger naturally.




rhynohead said:


> I really like how the Delta feels on Evils. Also rode/ride older Turner DW bikes. Want to try something new.
> Other bikes I was looking at was the Rascal and the Scor 4060 LT/ST. This will also be my first time on a 29er


Have several friends that owned evil bikes and have since moved on. One of them bought a Rascal and loves it. Feels great on techy climbs and remains planted when you point it down. Probably would be a choice for me if i didn't fall for the witchcraft earlier. From my time on Evil bikes, I was never a fan of the DELTA suspension in rocky tech. Seemed to have a lot of kickback and was just kinda a handful to keep planted. It was poppy, so people did enjoy that.

Druid is much, much smoother going up and down rocky tech than the DW stuff. Like others have said, its a little tougher to bunny hop and pop off of stuff but with some practice you can adapt. At 49 I prefer the sure footed feeling high pivots offer over anything too playful, so take all this with a grain of salt.

HTH


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## AlpineVulpine (Feb 6, 2021)

rhynohead said:


> sizing: I'm 5'9" and currently on a V1 Evil Insurgent medium. Looks like the medium Druid is about 10mm longer and lg 30mm longer? I'm leaning towards the medium as my Insurgent feels good to me. just curious of those who sized up? the biggest concern to me is the extra ST length in the lg, I've got a short inseam at 30inch.
> 
> color: does the brownstone look more grey or brown in person? Trying to decide between the XT build or the purple frameset.


Sizing seems to be a personal preference thing when it comes to the Druid. I'm 6 feet with a shorter torso and love the fit of the large. The fact that the high pivot allows the wheelbase to lengthen under compression gives you more stability than you might think and acts as a slightly larger bike when you're pushing it. I also favour a more compact cockpit on my bikes.

As for colours, the Brownstone doesn't look as brown in person, and is actually pretty cool and natural looking. The bright yellow-green graphics really pop off of it. That said, the Cosmic Eggplant is a really awesome choice if you like a bit of mettalic bling. It's only bright purple in direct light, but it's definitely a bit more attention seeking than the other colours (excluding the new green).

Hope that helps.


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## rhynohead (Jun 4, 2009)

Perfect. Thanks for the responses and comparisons, very helpful. So many good bikes these days, I got that paralysis’s analysis going on.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

rhynohead said:


> Perfect. Thanks for the responses and comparisons, very helpful. So many good bikes these days, I got that paralysis’s analysis going on.


I've tried/owned a few of the bikes you're considering. 

I went from: 1st year druid (rode awesome but high maintenance with drivetrain drag, I wanted more travel/composure and CC link was not a thing yet)

To: Evil Following V3 and Specialized Enduro (both great bikes but I realized I prefer 1 mid travel bike for everything)

To: Evil Offering V2 (couldn't get the fit right, felt too long and I was getting back pain despite trying diff bar/stem combos)

To: Revel Rail 29 (had a pretty bad customer service experience with the company that turned me off from the start, and the bike curiously felt like a big cushy bike on XC stuff but undergunned on the really fast/gnarly stuff, didn't like)

To: Another druid, now most recent model year. I'm running mine with cascade link and lower guide and with this it's all the business. The link gave me the exact suspension performance I wanted with no discernable loss in pedaling performance and with the SS idler pulley and CC lower guide the drivetrain drag and maintenance are significantly reduced, though still somewhat higher than a non-idler equipped bike. 

I'm very happy with my druid and have taken it on everything from technical XC to natural enduro-style trails to bike parks. I do swap between an air and coil shock and run it with a 160mm fork. 

I plan on keeping the druid for a while and will probably only replace it when I break it (an unfortunate habit of mine!)


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

A couple of quick comments before I’m off for a ride.

I’m 5’11”, 34” inseam, 185 lbs. Long and lean. I ride a large Druid and like it. That said, I took a medium for a blast in the LBS parking lot one day and could not believe how much easier it was to get the front end off the ground. I would never go medium but someone at 6’1” teetering between L and XL is going to have to choose between a roomier cockpit, and ease of getting the front end off the ground. Not sure which way I’d go.

Not a fan of the brownstone. It looks very brown to me. Not grey or any other colour. The cosmic eggplant is the bomb for me, but I also like my matte black.

Great fall riding here right now. From last night…


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> …I'm staying at Monte Sainte Anne for the next month.


Wow. Incredible! I have 3 weeks off at the moment. I should blast out there and meet up with you. Or you come here!

Hope you are enjoying the land of maple syrup, beers and Tim Hortons!


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Also like to add that I've been running my druid without a lower guide for a year and haven't dropped a chain. That includes multiple bike park days.


mtnbkrmike said:


> Wow. Incredible! I have 3 weeks off at the moment. I should blast out there and meet up with you. Or you come here!
> 
> Hope you are enjoying the land of maple syrup, beers and Tim Hortons!
> View attachment 2000502


That's a helluva drive but totally worth it. We're trying to buy a summer home here and if we do, you'll have a place to crash. We definitely want to head west for sho. Probably next year.

As a side note, saw one druid and two dreadnoughts at MSA today. Pretty cool.

Really loving the cascade link and 150mm fork on the ole girl.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Speaking of the Cascade link - anyone run one with a Push 11-6?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

I take back what I said about not being a fan of the brownstone. Saw one in the wild today. Brand new. Maiden voyage for the proud new owner. It looked good. Really organic looking, if that’s such a thing. Looked fantastic against the beautiful fall background. Definitely had some heavy grey notes.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Speaking of the Cascade link - anyone run one with a Push 11-6?


Answering my own question here - Cascade was cautiously optimistic about this, but PUSH basically told me my shock would explode.



> Unfortunately not. Utilizing an aftermarket link with your ELEVENSIX may result in rider injury, frame damage, and/or damage to your ELEVENSIX.
> 
> Each ELEVENSIX is built using a complex recipe designed specifically for maximum performance utilizing your frames stock linkage characteristic. This includes things like spring rate and spring progressivity, compression valve flow rate, compression and rebound damping levels, and external adjustment range just to name a few. Changing the frames leverage rate has a significant impact on all these factors.


Being a cautious sort I think I will go with PUSH's answer, sadly.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Answering my own question here - Cascade was cautiously optimistic about this, but PUSH basically told me my shock would explode.
> 
> 
> 
> Being a cautious sort I think I will go with PUSH's answer, sadly.


I’m there with you on this one. Thankfully, I’m beyond ecstatic running the V2 OEM linkage with the 11-6. The only lingering issue with me is whether I mullet it. And whether I do a coil fork conversion and if so, which one…


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Answering my own question here - Cascade was cautiously optimistic about this, but PUSH basically told me my shock would explode.
> 
> 
> 
> Being a cautious sort I think I will go with PUSH's answer, sadly.


I dunno - if you're on the lighter end of the scale, I'd probably roll the dice... Realistically, the frame and shock are tested beyond the limits of a 225# shredder, so unless I'm riding at the upper limit of human capacity and at that weight, I think I'd be ok... that's just me.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dingleberrry said:


> I dunno - if you're on the lighter end of the scale, I'd probably roll the dice... Realistically, the frame and shock are tested beyond the limits of a 225# shredder, so unless I'm riding at the upper limit of human capacity and at that weight, I think I'd be ok... that's just me.


It’s not just frame breakage (which I would be worried AF about while hanging on for dear life blasting through a rock garden) but the fact that the 11-6 will likely be way off on its tune.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Oddly enough, I'm on the other side of this subject. I think the Fox DPX2/Cascade combo outperforms the fork and really have no desire to upgrade the shock, beyond a rebuild/basic tune. Most of my suspension woes, on both my high pivots, have been from trying to make the forks keep pace with how smooth the rear suspension is.

Plan for winter is to pull the shock for a rebuild, and pull Lyrik from the SX and toss it on druid.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Oddly enough, I'm on the other side of this discursion on this subject. I think the Fox DPX2/Cascade combo outperforms the fork and really have no desire to upgrade the shock, beyond a rebuild/basic tune. Most of my suspension woes, on both my high pivots, have been from trying to make the forks keep pace with how smooth the rear suspension is.
> 
> Plan for winter is to pull the shock for a rebuild, and pull Lyrik from the SX and toss it on druid.


The DPX2 was great. I prefer the 11-6 for a number of reasons (including 2 independent, usable circuits; and no fade on long descents -100% consistency day to day and top to bottom on long runs). But the DPX2 is just fine. My problem was I couldn’t stop mine from squeaking like a tortured mouse and the 11-6 went on sale at the same time. I jumped.

My 150 GRIP2 36 with a Luftkappe is also incredible. No complaints really on anything suspension related. And now that I am done blowing thorough idlers (the NSB SS has been bulletproof so far), I really have no complaints at all, front to back, top to bottom. So please don’t get me thinking M 😝


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> The DPX2 was great. I prefer the 11-6 for a number of reasons (including 2 independent, usable circuits; and no fade on long descents -100% consistency day to day and top to bottom on long runs). But the DPX2 is just fine. My problem was I couldn’t stop mine from squeaking like a tortured mouse and the 11-6 went on sale at the same time. I jumped.
> 
> My 150 GRIP2 36 with a Luftkappe is also incredible. No complaints really on anything suspension related. And now that I am done blowing thorough idlers (the NSB SS has been bulletproof so far), I really have no complaints at all, front to back, top to bottom. So please don’t get me thinking M 😝


Yeah, mine stopped making noise so its on the way out. DPX2 doesn't have the best rep but the shop my buddy uses seems to have them figured out. Pretty happy with the druid overall and just trying to K.I.S.S for my sanities sake. In my experience, the ENVE hoops are WAY more detrimental to the ride than the fork/shock have been. Ugh. 

Pretty close to pulling the trigger on a DVO dual crown for the SX, and dialing that project in will keep me occupied for a while


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ATXZJ said:


> Oddly enough, I'm on the other side of this discursion on this subject. I think the Fox DPX2/Cascade combo outperforms the fork and really have no desire to upgrade the shock, beyond a rebuild/basic tune. Most of my suspension woes, on both my high pivots, have been from trying to make the forks keep pace with how smooth the rear suspension is.
> 
> Plan for winter is to pull the shock for a rebuild, and pull Lyrik from the SX and toss it on druid.


That’s why I find the Secus ended up making my fork shine. Surprised no one else has tried it here.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

ATXZJ said:


> Oddly enough, I'm on the other side of this subject. I think the Fox DPX2/Cascade combo outperforms the fork and really have no desire to upgrade the shock, beyond a rebuild/basic tune. Most of my suspension woes, on both my high pivots, have been from trying to make the forks keep pace with how smooth the rear suspension is.
> 
> Plan for winter is to pull the shock for a rebuild, and pull Lyrik from the SX and toss it on druid.


I suspect this is a rider weight/size thing. I am a hair over 200lbs, and could never quite get the DPX2 to act right. It didn't make any weird noises, but it was either stiff and dead, or slamming through it's travel, and I could never find the happy medium. I'll bet re-valving could have fixed my problems, but I went for a Storia instead (hydraulic bottom out is _amazeballs_, and lets me get away with a measly 450# spring). Now I have a spare shock for service swaps.

After breaking three CSUs though (crunch, creak, crackle, Cane Creek helmII), I went to an Ohlins 36.m2 fork. Hoping that ends my long string of creaking CSUs.

(not calling out CC Helms specifically, btw. I do the same to Fox forks, but faster).


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

My biggest gripe with the DPX2 was the mid-stroke. It beat the hell out of me. No issues once I switched over to the DHX2.

I miss that Druid. Wish I would have given the Cascade link a shot before I gave up on it. 36.5 pounds was a bit much for a 130 mm bike but now that I'm moving to the PNW, I would have been okay with that on fire road grinds. I've also since changed my tune on mullets since trying one out.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

RadicalPugilism said:


> My biggest gripe with the DPX2 was the mid-stroke. It beat the hell out of me. No issues once I switched over to the DHX2.
> 
> I miss that Druid. Wish I would have given the Cascade link a shot before I gave up on it. 36.5 pounds was a bit much for a 130 mm bike but now that I'm moving to the PNW, I would have been okay with that on fire road grinds. I've also since changed my tune on mullets since trying one out.


How so? You like them now?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> How so? You like them now?


Yeah, I'm 5'6" and like the handling of the 27.5", but I need that traction a 29" front end provides. I'm willing to risk getting hung up on sharp edges for a bike I can move around a bit. And I'm totally okay with putting my foot down on sketchy flat turns.


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## Yukonrider1 (4 mo ago)

To get 19mm shaft insertion sag on my DPX2 I have to run like 130 PSI, Forbidden recommends about 150 to 160 for my weight (165). Anyone else running into this?

I've tried all sorts of different pressures, but can't settle on one.


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## DeoreDX (Jul 28, 2007)

Just ordered my son the SLX build for his birthday. Not the bike I would have chosen for him but he really wanted the Druid and it's been at the top of his wish list of bikes for a while. It's a surprise he doesn't know we got it for him. He's 14 and 5'2". Ordered a medium for him to grow in to. All the males in the family are in the 5'8-5'9" range so I imagine he will growth spurt soon to around that size. He does race Enduro with a local team and XC with the local NICA team. He does NICA for fun and normally rides in the upper 40% not competitive with the top racers by any means. He hates pedaling hard uphill. He's been riding a 31lbs 120mm travel bike. I'm guessing this one will be a bit heavier but will hopefully be significantly better for the Enduro stuff he does which is the stuff he loves. He had been going back and forth between a full blown Enduro bike and just riding my polygon for NICA or getting a trail bike he could do both with. When he gets it on his birthday in Mid October. I'm sure as soon as he gets it he will be bugging me to go back to Windrock.


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## DeoreDX (Jul 28, 2007)

Is the extra money for the tailored ridewrap kit over the basic "covered" worth it? Do you have to break the bike down beyond just removing the tires for the tailored kit?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

DeoreDX said:


> Is the extra money for the tailored ridewrap kit over the basic "covered" worth it? Do you have to break the bike down beyond just removing the tires for the tailored kit?


IMHO, yes. For sure the tailored kit’s worth it.

I applied mine 3 years ago (wow) to the Druid’s unbuilt frame (they didn’t have completes until long after). But immediately when I was done wrapping the Druid, I wrapped my brand new, re-built Honzo, also with a tailored kit. I took off the wheels, and nothing more. No issues at all.

I imagine wrapping the Druid would be easier with the components stripped, but marginally. Likely not a requirement, by any stretch. 

Both bikes are still going strong.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

DeoreDX said:


> Is the extra money for the tailored ridewrap kit over the basic "covered" worth it? Do you have to break the bike down beyond just removing the tires for the tailored kit?


I've done three bikes with tailored kits, two of them built up, my Druid was a bare frame. It's time consuming either way, but I think very worthwhile to do. I'm on season 2 with the Druid and it still looks great, and when you do clean it, it cleans up easier too.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

armyofevilrobots said:


> I suspect this is a rider weight/size thing. I am a hair over 200lbs, and could never quite get the DPX2 to act right. It didn't make any weird noises, but it was either stiff and dead, or slamming through it's travel, and I could never find the happy medium. I'll bet re-valving could have fixed my problems, but I went for a Storia instead (hydraulic bottom out is _amazeballs_, and lets me get away with a measly 450# spring). Now I have a spare shock for service swaps.
> 
> After breaking three CSUs though (crunch, creak, crackle, Cane Creek helmII), I went to an Ohlins 36.m2 fork. Hoping that ends my long string of creaking CSUs.
> 
> (not calling out CC Helms specifically, btw. I do the same to Fox forks, but faster).


Wow, you are not much heavier than I am but are way harder on parts. Must be hitting the big stuff!

Storia is a good choice for sure. I weigh 190lbs kitted, and have to run a lot of pressure in my DPX2 with the cascade link (275psi). My wife's DPX2 on her META AM is the same way. 




RadicalPugilism said:


> My biggest gripe with the DPX2 was the mid-stroke. It beat the hell out of me. No issues once I switched over to the DHX2.
> 
> I miss that Druid. Wish I would have given the Cascade link a shot before I gave up on it. 36.5 pounds was a bit much for a 130 mm bike but now that I'm moving to the PNW, I would have been okay with that on fire road grinds. I've also since changed my tune on mullets since trying one out.


36.5lbs? Holy crap man! My large never broke 32lbs



RadicalPugilism said:


> Yeah, I'm 5'6" and like the handling of the 27.5", but I need that traction a 29" front end provides. I'm willing to risk getting hung up on sharp edges for a bike I can move around a bit. And I'm totally okay with putting my foot down on sketchy flat turns.


Are you riding a 29 sentinel now? Can't blame you for the switch in bikes when you live in Austin. I probably would've ditched the Druid had I not made my way out of that mountain bike wasteland. 



Yukonrider1 said:


> To get 19mm shaft insertion sag on my DPX2 I have to run like 130 PSI, Forbidden recommends about 150 to 160 for my weight (165). Anyone else running into this?
> 
> I've tried all sorts of different pressures, but can't settle on one.


That's crazy! You usually have to run 20-25% more psi than your weight with the DPX2. My wife weighs 120lbs kitted and we have to run 175psi on her commencal.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Wow, you are not much heavier than I am but are way harder on parts. Must be hitting the big stuff!
> 
> Storia is a good choice for sure. I weigh 190lbs kitted, and have to run a lot of pressure in my DPX2 with the cascade link (275psi). My wife's DPX2 on her META AM is the same way.
> 
> ...


Just by way of counternpoint 😝 I’m 185 plus gear and I found the DPX2 ran best for me around 190. That said, it was awesome anywhere between 175 to 225.

Whenever I rode my hardtail, I found 175 way too wallowy.

I started at 225, which is where I physically measured 30% sag. Then I watched a video review by Islander or something - some dude on VCR Island. He was who got me thinking about lowering it way down.

That said, I certainly ain’t sending it like you heathens 😝 The only air I get is off trail kickers and civilized drops.

I haven’t weighed it lately but with my 11-6, EXO+ Assegai/Dissector combo and $hit stuffed in the down tube (tube, levers, and a couple of other things), I’m around 35 pounds. Maybe a tad more. No burning desire to reduce the weight. It climbs great and descends even better.

I’m close to being exactly where I want to be with it. Apart from replacing the Dissector with something else, once the side knobs rip off further, I’m good.

…except for maybe picking up another wheelset to mullet it. Lol!!!


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Just by way of counternpoint 😝 I’m 185 plus gear and I found the DPX2 ran best for me around 190. That said, it was awesome anywhere between 175 to 225.
> 
> Whenever I rode my hardtail, I found 175 way too wallowy. My factory fox EVOL on the Hei Hei took a lot of pressure too.
> 
> ...



Man, to get 28-30% im having to run 275psi easy. Anything less just blows through travel and feels too wallowly.

I'm really tempted to give to mullet route a try. I've got way too many 29er skidmarks on my shorts/pants after a day at the MTB park 🤣


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Man, to get 28-30% im having to run 275psi easy. Anything less just blows through travel and feels too wallowly.
> 
> I'm really tempted to give to mullet route a try. I've got way too many 29er skidmarks on my shorts/pants after a day at the MTB park 🤣


Maybe a different tune back in the day? My DPX2 was a 2019 version. Most enthusiasts at the time were running a little more than body weight. I switched to my 11-6 the next season.






Jump to 6:00 or so.


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## Yukonrider1 (4 mo ago)

Im not running a cascade link or anything, just a stock Druid. It feels pretty soft, but thats where I get my 35% sag forbidden recomends. I'll measure again, but anything north of 150 gets a bit firm on choppy roots. In the small bike park I was pretty happy at 160, but about lost my teeth on small bumps.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

While I am sure everybody is well familiar with it, Forbidden recommends 170 to 180 for me (180 to 190 body weight).









Setting Up Your Druid's Suspension


Jump to: Fox DPX2 PE Shock | Fox Float X PE Shock | RS Super Deluxe Ultimate | Ohlins TTX2AIR | Push Elevensix | Fox Elite 36 Fork | The Fox DPX2 Performance Elite Shock With so many amazing shocks on the market today, we determined (after much testing) that the Fox DPX2 shock was the perfect...




www.forbiddenbike.com


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## TLN (Jul 1, 2016)

Hi all.
Considering getting Druid as my new bike. I'm looking for XL size, being a 6"4. I wonder if I'll need to do something with the chain length? planning to with 34 or 36T chainring. Does anyone know chain length needed for that, do I have to buy two chains, or can I get away with single one?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

TLN said:


> Hi all.
> Considering getting Druid as my new bike. I'm looking for XL size, being a 6"4. I wonder if I'll need to do something with the chain length? planning to with 34 or 36T chainring. Does anyone know chain length needed for that, do I have to buy two chains, or can I get away with single one?


I believe sizes Large and up require additional links.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> 36.5lbs? Holy crap man! My large never broke 32lbs
> 
> 
> 
> Are you riding a 29 sentinel now? Can't blame you for the switch in bikes when you live in Austin. I probably would've ditched the Druid had I not made my way out of that mountain bike wasteland.


With the coil, inserts, EX511 rims, and what I would consider a middle of the range build, the weight crept up pretty quick.

Wasteland is actually a pretty good way to describe it. I'm happy not having to hike my way out of a creek! 

Loving the way the Sentinel rides, but the wheelbase is still getting taking some getting used to.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

RadicalPugilism said:


> With the coil, inserts, EX511 rims, and what I would consider a middle of the range build, the weight crept up pretty quick.
> 
> Wasteland is actually a pretty good way to describe it. I'm happy not having to hike my way out of a creek!
> 
> Loving the way the Sentinel rides, but the wheelbase is still getting taking some getting used to.


Yeah, I can see how all that adds up. Were you running inserts F&R? In Austin?

I rode a buddies 1st generation Sentinel XL in Telluride and that wheelbase was awesome at deathgrip speed. Making me want an XL DH rig when the time/money allows. 

I can't imagine having a long WB rig in the switchback/ledge/rockbike riding utopia that is CTX. Seems 1200mm is the MAX for out there.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

This isn't really a tire thread, but I ran the Assegai/Dissector combo on the Druid for awhile - both in EXO casing with MaxxTerra compound - and the rear Dissector was pretty worn out after about 660 miles (!). Kind of annoying for a tire that now retails for north of $100. Not sure if that's typical for that tire, but currently have a Minion DHR 2 MT EXO+ (new version) on the rear so we'll see how long that goes. The Assegai is still going strong, though.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> This isn't really a tire thread, but I ran the Assegai/Dissector combo on the Druid for awhile - both in EXO casing with MaxxTerra compound - and the rear Dissector was pretty worn out after about 660 miles (!). Kind of annoying for a tire that now retails for north of $100. Not sure if that's typical for that tire, but currently have a Minion DHR 2 MT EXO+ (new version) on the rear so we'll see how long that goes. The Assegai is still going strong, though.


Same experience. I have recently posted more than once in other threads on this.

2.5 MaxxGrip EXO+ Assegai on the front, 2.4 MaxxTerra EXO+ Dissector on the rear. I bought 2 of each at the same time. 

Every single side lug on my Dissector was 75% ripped off within a month and a half. I wasn’t checking them and then all of a sudden, out of the clear blue, boom. I noticed the lugs almost completely ripped off. Who knows how long they were like that. I was blown away and concerned about my safety, and not getting stranded 20k in the middle of griz country, so I replaced both tires right away.

My Assegai was not too bad, but I thought WTF. My buddy wanted to try an Assegai so I gave him my take-off.

I’m definitely going to keep using MaxxGrip Assegais. My God are those a beautiful creation. I will likely switch to an Aggressor on the rear. I’m running a DHF/Aggressor combo on my Honzo. The DC Aggressor breaks loose way sooner than anything else I have run, but that’s part of the fun with it. Plus it seems to last forever.

Apart from the side lugs of my Dissector disintegrating (every single one of them, both sides), the Dissector was a great tire. Too bad it’s so delicate.

That MaxxGrip Assegai is so sticky that it picks up stones and slams them into my downtube. I have RideWrap on there. I hope it’s enough.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> That MaxxGrip Assegai is so sticky that it picks up stones and slams them into my downtube. I have RideWrap on there. I hope it’s enough.


The MT Assegai does the same thing - something about the tread, not the compound. My solution was to just leave the Fox fender on the Druid year round - does a good job of rock-blocking.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> The MT Assegai does the same thing - something about the tread, not the compound. My solution was to just leave the Fox fender on the Druid year round - does a good job of rock-blocking.


I have a Syncros fender. The much larger Fox fender doesn’t fit on my 2018 fork. Love the Assegai, apart from it showering rocks on the down tube.


https://www.syncros.com/kr/ko/product/syncros-trail-fender


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

holy moly it is a bit scary to see people still uncertain with how to setup the rear suspension. Forbidden recommends 35% sag for a reason.
One thing that I did stumble across was a NSMB article that sheds some better light on a misunderstood aspect of the rear suspension:


> The Forbidden Druid comes from the factory with a light tune Fox DPX2 Performance Elite shock. It is a brilliant little shock. You can however run just about any coil or air shock of your choosing. When I gear up to about 165lbs of stuff, I initially set the shock to 150psi air for a 30% sag. It just did not feel right at first… I tried getting along with it for a few rides and unless I was riding at a race-pace, it felt too harsh for the promised suspension performance. The low speed compression was wide open and rebound compression was 3 clicks from full pogo. Easy rides showed full travel on the o-ring with a strange feeling under my feet that I can only explain as, dead.. Then I had a chat with _Owen Pemberton,_ the man behind the brand. He let me in on a setup tip that changed everything. When he designed the Druid he wanted the ride height to remain low and the shock to recover fast for the next hit. He also needed the pedaling platform to be supportive and ground tracking, and damping control to be as unrestricted as possible. *Which meant that the shock air pressure influences the ride height of the bike more than how it goes through its 130mm travel.* Down went the air pressure to 140psi in the shock and in went the grey volume spacer for more bottom out support. The bike settled nicely into 35% sag and rebound was set 1-click from full pogo and LS compression 2-clicks from open. With the Coil-sprung 160mm Marzocchi Z1 up front, the head angle slackened to a Shore worthy 65 degrees and everything started making sense.











NSMB.com - Forbidden Bicycle Co. Multi Part Review


"I have been happily riding terrain you’d reserve a 170mm bike for the last few rides..."




nsmb.com




Also @mtnbkrmike your profile is private so I cannot message you about that riding spot


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Outlawed said:


> holy moly it is a bit scary to see people still uncertain with how to setup the rear suspension. Forbidden recommends 35% sag for a reason.
> One thing that I did stumble across was a NSMB article that sheds some better light on a misunderstood aspect of the rear suspension:
> 
> 
> ...


My BB measures just under 13" (327mm). I get16-17mm of sag at a shock pressure of 275psi. I weigh 190lbs kitted up and push the O-ring to max bottom out. The ride is not harsh in the least.

What am I doing wrong?


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Has anyone here dealt with rattling from the internally routed cables on the Druid? Particularly towards the front end? I’ve had an incessant rattling for awhile and I’ve managed to rule out any other cause I can think of. The sound is easily produced by picking up and dropping the front end of the bike. Tightened up the cable ports and it didn’t address the issue. It is starting to bother me enough that I’m considering drastic action like rebuilding the bike as a full AXS setup just to eliminate two cables.


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Has anyone here dealt with rattling from the internally routed cables on the Druid? Particularly towards the front end? I’ve had an incessant rattling for awhile and I’ve managed to rule out any other cause I can think of. The sound is easily produced by picking up and dropping the front end of the bike. Tightened up the cable ports and it didn’t address the issue. It is starting to bother me enough that I’m considering drastic action like rebuilding the bike as a full AXS setup just to eliminate two cables.


I used foam sleeves over the cables in the top tube, completely silent. I also used some moto foam in the downtube to silence the dropper cable. But if you need an excuse to get AXS, go for it.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ALS650L said:


> I used foam sleeves over the cables in the top tube, completely silent. I also used some moto foam in the downtube to silence the dropper cable. But if you need an excuse to get AXS, go for it.


When it rattles, it really rattles. Super annoying and more importantly it’s hard to tell if something is breaking/broken on a ride. I did two things: one, added foam and some cheap shipping air bubble wrap in key spots around the cables; just shoving it in the frame. Two, you can pull the cables in and out a bit at the ports to adjust the cables to not touch the tubing as much before cinching.

A proper job would entail better foam wrap on tubes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Same experience. I have recently posted more than once in other threads on this.
> 
> 2.5 MaxxGrip EXO+ Assegai on the front, 2.4 MaxxTerra EXO+ Dissector on the rear. I bought 2 of each at the same time.
> 
> ...


That’s my go to combo and I agree. Assegai is great up front, but that Dissector gets shredded in an instant which is pretty unacceptable for a ~$100 tire. I built up new wheels and have since experimented with the Minion clone Versus tires. They work well for the money, but the Assegai/Dissector pair hooks up better and rolls better for my local area overall. May go Aggressor on the rear as well when I need new tires. Mulling…

Anyone tried the new Conti Kryptotal on the Druid? Looks interesting.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Energ8t said:


> That’s my go to combo and I agree. Assegai is great up front, but that Dissector gets shredded in an instant which is pretty unacceptable for a ~$100 tire. I built up new wheels and have since experimented with the Minion clone Versus tires. They work well for the money, but the Assegai/Dissector pair hooks up better and rolls better for my local area overall. May go Aggressor on the rear as well when I need new tires. Mulling…
> 
> Anyone tried the new Conti Kryptotal on the Druid? Looks interesting.
> 
> ...


I've had pretty good luck running the basic DHF DC in the back with a sticky assegai up front.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

ATXZJ said:


> My BB measures just under 13" (327mm). I get16-17mm of sag at a shock pressure of 275psi. I weigh 190lbs kitted up and push the O-ring to max bottom out. The ride is not harsh in the least.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?


I am 205 and get 35% sag with 190psi, I dont know what to tell you (assuming your running the stock shock) but the fact that the psi your running isn't even on Forbidden's chart should be a massive red flag no? 


Energ8t said:


> Anyone tried the new Conti Kryptotal on the Druid? Looks interesting.


I am going to be give a Argotal/Kryptotal Rear combo a try on my winter hardtail, I have a riding buddy that has said good things about the Kryptotal F/R but he is a bit of a Continental fanboy 🤷‍♂️


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Outlawed said:


> I am 205 and get 35% sag with 190psi, I dont know what to tell you (assuming your running the stock shock) but the fact that the psi your running isn't even on Forbidden's chart should be a massive red flag no?



Not the stock tune. All the fox dpx2 and floats with evol can have required far more psi than others. My Rockshox are usually pretty close to body weight/psi ratios. My buddy has a dpx2 on his sentinel and it is the same as mine. At the current settings, it rides and performs just like a shorter travel version of my other HSP, so it doesn't seem to be an issue. I've had more trouble getting my forks to keep up with the rear suspension performance.

Will send it to a shock tuner this winter for a rebuild and go from there. TBH, i'd prefer not to run fox products if I didn't have them already.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Have any of you swapped out the original Jagwire shifter cable and housing with Shimano? I've read that there is a significant improvement.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> Have any of you swapped out the original Jagwire shifter cable and housing with Shimano? I've read that there is a significant improvement.


New shifter cable, regardless of manufacturer, often is a big improvement. That's one of those "boiling the frog" things where it can get terrible, and you only realize HOW terrible when you swap it out.
Just be sure to swap BOTH the housing and cable. The housing is at least half the problem. It is a PITA to change, but it's worth it. (I change mine at least every year, and it's always a big improvement).


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Same experience. I have recently posted more than once in other threads on this.
> 
> 2.5 MaxxGrip EXO+ Assegai on the front, 2.4 MaxxTerra EXO+ Dissector on the rear. I bought 2 of each at the same time.
> 
> ...


I am on that same thread; and have had a similarly bad experience with the Dissector; awesome for a short period of time.
I wanted to add; I got a High Roller II for a good price, and have been running that all summer. Despite taking nearly 2 months off due to an injury, all the side-lugs on the High Roller are peeling off, exactly the same as the Dissector. They look very similar to each other, and I wonder if it's a structural/design problem instead of a defect. Maybe they don't get the dual compound stiffness up into the smaller lugs or something?
Regardless, won't be buying the High Roller again; it's not a good enough tire to make up for the quick failure. I'll probably still run Dissectors in dry/fast conditions though.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

New owner of the Cascade lower guide and loving the drag reduction so far.

As always I am never quite sure I got the b-tension set right. With the stock e13 guide, a 51 tooth large cog, an XL frame, and a 30 tooth chainring, I run a 130 link chain. Removing another link would leave me with two quick links with one actual link sandwiched between them which seems awkward and not worth it. Any thoughts from those running similar numbers?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

ALS650L said:


> I just bought the altalt set too. I haven't done my bearings but it appears it will work just fine. I think you could do the bearings without removing the swing arm, it may take some ingenuity to hold in place, but it looks doable.


I replaced my bearings with the AltAlt set. Worked quite well, no issues at all. Ratcheting wrenches will make it much easier to do without fully removing the swing arm. I was able to do the main pivots without any further disassembly, too.
I popped the seals off the bearings, there was no rust in them fortunately. I replaced them because my suspension was ticking a lot. I probably could have regreased them, but I don't think it would have fully fixed it.


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## AlpineVulpine (Feb 6, 2021)

I finally took the plunge and grabbed a 27.5 rear wheel and Ziggy Link. One ride in and I'm definitely liking the ride and responsiveness. It feels like this bike was built for this combination.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

@AlpineVulpine Please post more – pros and cons. I’ve been on the fence for 1.5 years now.

Do you know if there is any difference between the two different Ziggy links apparently available? I have the original red one.


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## AlpineVulpine (Feb 6, 2021)

mtnbkrmike said:


> @AlpineVulpine Please post more – pros and cons. I’ve been on the fence for 1.5 years now.
> 
> Do you know if there is any difference between the two different Ziggy links apparently available? I have the original red one.


I will keep you posted once I've had a few more rides. The only difference between the two Ziggy's are the colour. I went with the blue so it didn't stand out as much.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

Hey Druid fellas,

I am riding a Druid and think about an investment for the rear shock. Current setup is the stock Fox DPX2 shock. Generally I am happy with the shock. My only concern is that I use all of the travel, even on mellow trails, if I setup my SAG as recommended (35%/19mm). My weight ride ready is about 210 lbs. I would stay with an air shock to keep as much pop/playfulness as possible. I also thought about a cascade link to solve that problem and get some more pop/progression. 

As I am very pleased with my new RS Lyrik Ultimate MY23 in the front (coming from a Fox 36 GRIP2 MY19) I thought about going for the new RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate RC2T DebonAir+. My concern is if its worth the "Upgrade"?! Anyone here have any suggestions or even personal experience?

Kind regards


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

beckma said:


> Hey Druid fellas,
> 
> I am riding a Druid and think about an investment for the rear shock. Current setup is the stock Fox DPX2 shock. Generally I am happy with the shock. My only concern is that I use all of the travel, even on mellow trails, if I setup my SAG as recommended (35%/19mm). My weight ride ready is about 210 lbs. I would stay with an air shock to keep as much pop/playfulness as possible. I also thought about a cascade link to solve that problem and get some more pop/progression.
> 
> ...


Before you go down the cascade link route, have you tried adding a volume spacer or two to the DPX2, or playing with the compression settings?

Personally I found the Push Elevensix to be transformative for the Druid, but you already said you want to stick with air and "poppy and playful" is not the result you get with Push.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Before you go down the cascade link route, have you tried adding a volume spacer or two to the DPX2, or playing with the compression settings?
> 
> Personally I found the Push Elevensix to be transformative for the Druid, but you already said you want to stick with air and "poppy and playful" is not the result you get with Push.


Me too. Transformative is a good descriptor. My 11-6 does not disappoint. I’m into the 3rd season on it. Only downside - no Cascade link option, to the extent that’s a requirement or interest for anyone.

EDIT: I often run my 11-6 in the climb mode on the downs, if I am on fast flowy stuff. I find it plenty poppy and playful when run like that. Run in the down circuit though, yeah - it hugs the trail and eats up anything I throw at it. The faster the better.


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## CHWK (Oct 9, 2020)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Me too. Transformative is a good descriptor. My 11-6 does not disappoint. I’m into the 3rd season on it. Only downside - no Cascade link option, to the extent that’s a requirement or interest for anyone.


Just run this with the cascade link to make it work -> Space Shuttle


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> EDIT: I often run my 11-6 in the climb mode on the downs, if I am on fast flowy stuff. I find it plenty poppy and playful when run like that. Run in the down circuit though, yeah - it hugs the trail and eats up anything I throw at it. The faster the better.


Intriguing - haven't tried this but I've been meaning to. Are you running the climb circuit with the stock settings (4 LSC 10 HSC)?


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Intriguing - haven't tried this but I've been meaning to. Are you running the climb circuit with the stock settings (4 LSC 10 HSC)?


Stock settings. I can check what those are when I get home. En route to go riding.

PS - it depends how strong I’m feeling. The stronger I am, the better able I am to push the 11-6 in its climb circuit (no pun intended). When I am more tired, the down setting can be a little…retina detaching. Love that shock though.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Stock settings. I can check what those are when I get home. En route to go riding.
> 
> PS - it depends how strong I’m feeling. The stronger I am, the better able I am to push the 11-6 in its climb circuit (no pun intended). When I am more tired, the down setting can be a little…retina detaching. Love that shock though.





















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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Stock settings. I can check what those are when I get home. En route to go riding.
> 
> PS - it depends how strong I’m feeling. The stronger I am, the better able I am to push the 11-6 in its climb circuit (no pun intended). When I am more tired, the down setting can be a little…retina detaching. Love that shock though.


Yeah, those are the stock settings as someone just snapshotted: Druid Support - PUSH Industries

If you dial in some of the "fast flowy" settings on that circuit you might find it to be less retina detaching.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

beckma said:


> Hey Druid fellas,
> 
> I am riding a Druid and think about an investment for the rear shock. Current setup is the stock Fox DPX2 shock. Generally I am happy with the shock. My only concern is that I use all of the travel, even on mellow trails, if I setup my SAG as recommended (35%/19mm). My weight ride ready is about 210 lbs. I would stay with an air shock to keep as much pop/playfulness as possible. I also thought about a cascade link to solve that problem and get some more pop/progression.
> 
> ...


Not to beat a dead horse, but I recommend you run whatever shock pressure works for you. If it needs more PSI, then increase it until it feels harsh. I'm running 270-275 psi on the DPX2 to get 17mm sag and I weigh 190-ish kitted. Never feels harsh, and that includes places with high speed/rocky trails like mont sainte anne. I have and also recommend the cascade link. It's cheaper than a shock and can be easily sold on the classifieds if you choose to.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

AlpineVulpine said:


> I finally took the plunge and grabbed a 27.5 rear wheel and Ziggy Link. One ride in and I'm definitely liking the ride and responsiveness. It feels like this bike was built for this combination.





mtnbkrmike said:


> @AlpineVulpine Please post more – pros and cons. I’ve been on the fence for 1.5 years now.


Congrats. Bike looks good!Yes, post up when you get some more laps in. 
Like @mtnbkrmike I've been considering the ziggy but have been on the fence. My biggest concern is climbing rocky ledges and climbing in general......which i hate doing 🤣


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Before you go down the cascade link route, have you tried adding a volume spacer or two to the DPX2, or playing with the compression settings?
> 
> Personally I found the Push Elevensix to be transformative for the Druid, but you already said you want to stick with air and "poppy and playful" is not the result you get with Push.


I didn`t tried it with a larger volume spacer yet because of lack of larger spacers. Maybe that should help but I was a driven by the article on NSMB:

Cascade Components Forbidden Druid-Nought Link

"Apart from increasing my rear wheel travel to 142mm from 130mm. The link allowed for incredible sensitivity off the top. The small chatter just melted away like a dairy rich frozen treat and I found myself sitting planted right in the midstroke. Say about 60 to 70 mm of wheel travel in. The bump up in the leverage ratio in the early to mid part of the travel meant that I could use higher shock pressures to combat bottom outs without affecting the suppleness and traction. *This could also be done to a degree with volume spacers. But there will be a compromise in the supple or the supportive side of the spectrum*, and I already had the largest spacer in my DPX2."

I was a bit confused about this statement: "Cascade Components cater to the aggressive, lighter weight riders that have reached the limit of tuning in their shocks."

Does it mean it is not for heavier riders?! The increased progression/pop should be a benefit for big guys i assume...


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

ATXZJ said:


> Not to beat a dead horse, but I recommend you run whatever shock pressure works for you. If it needs more PSI, then increase it until it feels harsh. I'm running 270-275 psi on the DPX2 to get 17mm sag and I weigh 190-ish kitted. Never feels harsh, and that includes places with high speed/rocky trails like mont sainte anne. I have and also recommend the cascade link. It's cheaper than a shock and can be easily sold on the classifieds if you choose to.


Thanks for sharing your experience! I will definately try the DPX2 with some more pressure (220PSI) and check if it`s still killing chatter/square edge bumps enough on technical trails. Like I mentioned above in the linked Cascade Druidnought article it was stated that with the link you would need more pressure for the rear shock due to the change in leverage ratio. I lean to get a cascade link. Could go even for the old link and save some bucks because I wont go for a coil shock anyways. On the other hand reselling the link would be more easy if I order the C1 which offers more compatibility with coil shocks.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

beckma said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience! I will definately try the DPX2 with some more pressure (220PSI) and check if it`s still killing chatter/square edge bumps enough on technical trails. Like I mentioned above in the linked Cascade Druidnought article it was stated that with the link you would need more pressure for the rear shock due to the change in leverage ratio. I lean to get a cascade link. Could go even for the old link and save some bucks because I wont go for a coil shock anyways. On the other hand reselling the link would be more easy if I order the C1 which offers more compatibility with coil shocks.


I've been really happy with the cascade. Its surprising how quickly it get's the shock moving OTT. I was running 250-260psi with the stock link but I'm a bit of basher when I ride, so there's that..

Fall riding at MSA


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Turns out I didn’t need to remove any links for the cascade lower guide. Thing works like a charm - great upgrade. My guess is that something like 90% of the perceptible drivetrain drag comes from that damned lower roller on the stock lower guide.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Turns out I didn’t need to remove any links for the cascade lower guide. Thing works like a charm - great upgrade. My guess is that something like 90% of the perceptible drivetrain drag comes from that damned lower roller on the stock lower guide.


Yep… glad I got the CC guide too. Made a big difference, even if only psychological. Plus the idler takes a huge brunt of the load so the chainring doesn’t ostensibly need as many teeth in contact with the chain (warning: armchair science claim).


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Turns out I didn’t need to remove any links for the cascade lower guide. Thing works like a charm - great upgrade. My guess is that something like 90% of the perceptible drivetrain drag comes from that damned lower roller on the stock lower guide.





Energ8t said:


> Yep… glad I got the CC guide too. Made a big difference, even if only psychological. Plus the idler takes a huge brunt of the load so the chainring doesn’t ostensibly need as many teeth in contact with the chain (warning: armchair science claim).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Glad that guide is working for you! Definitely eyeing if i start running into some chain drop issues.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

ATXZJ said:


> Glad that guide is working for you! Definitely eyeing if i start running into some chain drop issues.


The only chain drop issue I have had is the chain got caught once between the idler and frame on a ride (before CC guide install). That’s it. CC guide has been perfect after about 6 months or so.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Neither of my high pivots had lower guides and were fine. It was only when I switched the SX to the Sram 8spd EX1 that it started dropping chains. I did put a lower guide on that bike but it pedals like wet concrete anyway.

The druid has GX eagle cassette, chain, XO 30t chainring, XTR derailleur & shifter with no lower guide. Zero issues. I would imagine problems surfacing as the drivetrain wears though.


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## DeoreDX (Jul 28, 2007)

Anyone else have experience with their Druid stuck in customs? And how long of a delay that causes?


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

DeoreDX said:


> Anyone else have experience with their Druid stuck in customs? And how long of a delay that causes?


If its chicago, god help you. SF and NY have been pretty good so far. Everything involving transportation is pretty much fkt right now.....


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dumb question: Can you still run the bash guard with the Cascade chain guide? I hit the bash guard a fair amount (poor life/line choices) and wouldn't like to lose it. The Cascade chainguide doesn't appear to be a bash guard in addition to corralling the chain.


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## kuba.st (Jul 27, 2008)

HI folks,
Quick question in regards to the forbidden druid and cascade link compatibility. 
Due to the piggyback of ohlins ttx2 air rotating on the bushings closer to the frame through the travel change; the space between the piggyback and the main frame is quiet minimal (I am using size medium frame). Is anyone using a medium frame with ttx2 air shock and cascad link? Or maybe anyone does know if due to the travel increase the piggyback of the shock rotates even closer to the frame or it does not change compared to the basic linkage?


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

I run a ttx2 with the Cascade C1 link on my large druid. Tried it with the older B1 link and it didn't work. No issues on the C1 after around 5 rides.


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## kuba.st (Jul 27, 2008)

rpearce1475 said:


> I run a ttx2 with the Cascade C1 link on my large druid. Tried it with the older B1 link and it didn't work. No issues on the C1 after around 5 rides.


Thank you for the answer. Can you make a picture how much space do you have between the piggyback mounting and the main frame? Basically a picture from side od the shock and front triangle. Cheers


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> Dumb question: Can you still run the bash guard with the Cascade chain guide? I hit the bash guard a fair amount (poor life/line choices) and wouldn't like to lose it. The Cascade chainguide doesn't appear to be a bash guard in addition to corralling the chain.











Forbidden Lower MTB Chain Guide | US | Cascade Components


Lower only chain guide and bash guard for the Forbidden Druid and Dreadnought. Providing excellent chain retention without added drag.




cascadecomponents.bike




It most certainly is a bash guard. I have one.
It also says it right in the description… and you can see it if you like at the pictures. (Not trying to sound sarcastic, Lol)


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Energ8t said:


> Forbidden Lower MTB Chain Guide | US | Cascade Components
> 
> 
> Lower only chain guide and bash guard for the Forbidden Druid and Dreadnought. Providing excellent chain retention without added drag.
> ...


+1 - I have one too, it's definitely a bash guard.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> +1 - I have one too, it's definitely a bash guard.


thanks! apparently I can't read good


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

hbar said:


> thanks! apparently I can't read good


That’s what we’re here for. 


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Got to check another big box on our QC MTB trip. We did the 1.5hr drive from MSA to Vallée Bras-du-Nord bike park. Wife was not too stoked about the climb up La Legende but she made it. The waterfall line was one I'll never forget and made the whole thing worth it.

Riding the Druid in Eastern Canada has been next level fun and the bike overall has been stone reliable.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Got to check another big box on our QC MTB trip. We did the 1.5hr drive from MSA to Vallée Bras-du-Nord bike park. Wife wife not stoked about the climb up La Legende but she made it. The waterfall line was one I'll never forget and made the whole thing worth it.
> 
> Riding the Druid in Eastern Canada has been next level fun and the bike overall has been stone reliable.
> 
> ...


Incredible!

Today is my first day back to work after 17 days off. It was a staycation, but I got a ton of riding in during the best fall weather I can recall. It’s been absolutely outstanding and it’s not over yet. And the Druid? It did NOT disappoint.


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## angerbot (5 mo ago)

mtnbkrmike said:


> Incredible!
> 
> Today is my first day back to work after 17 days off. It was a staycation, but I got a ton of riding in during the best fall weather I can recall. It’s been absolutely outstanding and it’s not over yet. And the Druid? It did NOT disappoint.
> View attachment 2003215



Looks like fun! Jewell Pass? I did it this weekend as well for the first time.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

angerbot said:


> Looks like fun! Jewell Pass? I did it this weekend as well for the first time.


Yup. Those are pics over the last 2 weeks from Prairieview/Jewell, Jumpingpound Ridge, Bragg Creek, and Canmore Nordic Centre.

There’s some sweet riding on Jewell. Hope you enjoyed it!


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

In case you missed it. Here's a custom painted Connor Fearon DH proto for Crankworx Cairns: 





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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

Energ8t said:


> In case you missed it. Here's a custom painted Connor Fearon DH proto for Crankworx Cairns:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


…that got him on the podium…



https://m.pinkbike.com/news/results-from-the-downhill-at-crankworx-cairns-2022.html


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread. 

I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


In BC, especially in North Vancouver, almost all riding is straight up and straight down again. We don't really have a lot of XC/trail riding. My rides are around 1-1.5 hours long, 7-10 km, 350-550m elevation.

Most people ride bikes with much more travel than the Druid around here.


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


Yup. I do. Although I am rocking a 150 36 up front. From flowy blues to rad double blacks, this bike rocks. And not just on the downs. The biggest surprise for me is its climbing prowess.

Still blows me away every single ride, and this is season 4 with mine.

Off to ride Cox Hill. This is THE perfect bike for that ride.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


AFAIK they always came spec'd with 150 mm travel up front. The Druid is definitely more prone to pedal strikes, especially if you're running the recommended 35% sag. I've seen folks complain about more pedal strikes with the 140 mm fork.

There's a "cross country" build floating around in the Facebook group if you're looking for inspiration. I think it has a Sid up front and a Deluxe in the rear.

I tried a burlier build when I had my Druid - DHX2, 160 mm fork, -1 angleset, EX511 rims with inserts and it was super fun. I regret not trying to go the other way.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


Don't let all the Druid modding dissuade and confuse you. The Druid in stock form as provided by Forbidden is an excellent burly trail bike. It just has so much descending chops that just a few mods can turn into a full-on AM weapon, if that is what you want it to be (that's what I did). If you want a very capable trail bike, just get it in stock form and ride happily ever after. The only trail bike caveat I can potentially see is, while seated pedaling efficiency is very good combined with excellent suppleness in technical, loose and ledgy uphill stuff, it moves quite a bit when you go to standing pedaling mode hammering up the fire road (compared to other 130mm bikes that are more efficient in that regard, but cannot hold a candle to the Druid when descending). Hope this helps.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

meeeeep said:


> In BC, especially in North Vancouver, almost all riding is straight up and straight down again. We don't really have a lot of XC/trail riding. My rides are around 1-1.5 hours long, 7-10 km, 350-550m elevation.
> 
> Most people ride bikes with much more travel than the Druid around here.


yeah thats perfectly understandable, i just spent a week in bc interior and i wouldnt have wanted a trail bike.


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## CorneliusN (6 mo ago)

.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

RadicalPugilism said:


> AFAIK they always came spec'd with 150 mm travel up front. The Druid is definitely more prone to pedal strikes, especially if you're running the recommended 35% sag. I've seen folks complain about more pedal strikes with the 140 mm fork.
> 
> There's a "cross country" build floating around in the Facebook group if you're looking for inspiration. I think it has a Sid up front and a Deluxe in the rear.
> 
> I tried a burlier build when I had my Druid - DHX2, 160 mm fork, -1 angleset, EX511 rims with inserts and it was super fun. I regret not trying to go the other way.


Ah maybe they just gave the geo with a 140mm then. I dont really want an xc build as much as just a nice humble trail bike, i have longer travel bikes that i ride 99% of the time but looking to switch it up a bit and they are on sale. the most xc id get is a rekon in the rear.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

MyDadSucks said:


> Ah maybe they just gave the geo with a 140mm then. I dont really want an xc build as much as just a nice humble trail bike, i have longer travel bikes that i ride 99% of the time but looking to switch it up a bit and they are on sale. the most xc id get is a rekon in the rear.


Gotcha. That build is more of an example of how far you can take it. Wheels/tires and fork, maybe brakes, are probably the way to go.

Curious to see what you end up with!


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

MyDadSucks said:


> Ah maybe they just gave the geo with a 140mm then. I dont really want an xc build as much as just a nice humble trail bike, i have longer travel bikes that i ride 99% of the time but looking to switch it up a bit and they are on sale. the most xc id get is a rekon in the rear.


What type of terrain would you be riding with druid?


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


Yes. Totally a sick bike in that form - I’ve got a super light build but I kept fork (pike) at 150. 
I heard the fbc guys ran a short stroked shock (210x50) with a 130mm fork on a Druid and got it built super light. Was 130 front and 116mm rear. I’d love to try that bike in the right places.


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


Lighter tires make it into a great pure trailbike, but that would be a shame (unless you live somewhere that lacks the burly terrain that the Druid excels at). Also, the Druid frame is nearly 8 lbs WITHOUT a shock. That's a bit heavy for a lightweight trailbike, although I've done some _terrible_ things to this bike and it's still in one piece. For comparison, a Ripmo frame is 1 lbs lighter. A stump jumper is 2 lbs lighter.

I can't stress enough how tough the Druid has been. I've wrecked three forks on this frame (all with very creaky CSUs, one where the steerer actually came loose), but the pivot bearings were still viable when I changed them after two years. Some of the finishing was a bit rough on the first generation, but the frame design is very good.


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

Cascade link owners, do you see any impact--positive or negative--of the link on climbing performance? I've searched the thread a fair bit but haven't found too much (though I'm not the greatest at using the search). Most of my riding is in Colorado, so I'm interested in the link for descending, but I love the long tech climbs almost as much and wouldn't want that to suffer. Thanks for sharing any experiences


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

hbar said:


> Cascade link owners, do you see any impact--positive or negative--of the link on climbing performance? I've searched the thread a fair bit but haven't found too much (though I'm not the greatest at using the search). Most of my riding is in Colorado, so I'm interested in the link for descending, but I love the long tech climbs almost as much and wouldn't want that to suffer. Thanks for sharing any experiences


Been doing some climbing here in Quebec, initially with the stock link and 140mm fork and then cascade with 150mm travel up front. Being able to ride the bike in both configurations on the same trails, made a big difference. Seems like it does better over rooty/rocky tech climbs with the cascade than without. Enough so that i didn't notice increased travel on the fork. Also, the bike already had a 2* headset so the 150mm put me at 63.5* -ish HTA .The descending was noticeably more plush, even with the DPX2 pumped up to 275psi.

Besides a potential warranty conflict, I really don't see a downside to the cascade link.


----------



## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

MyDadSucks said:


> Kind of an odd question but dont really feel like digging through the thread.
> 
> I see tons and tons of people eeking every bit of descending prowess out of the druid, but does anyone just appreciate it as a trail bike? Im looking to get one but id rather just keep it more of a trail bike; probably a 140mm 34 up front and some lighter wheels/lighter tires. i know originally they came specced with 140mm forks.


Prior to this, I lived in Austin, TX riding rocky/punchy tight trails with a lot of pedaling. I wouldn't choose the Druid as my only bike for that terrain and would ride something downcountry like a Transition Spur, Revel Ranger or Kona Hei Hei. If you live in an area where you have to pedal to descend fast, chunky and steep terrain, the Druid is a perfect bike.

Otherwise the extra maintenance, weight and lack of pop isn't great for flattish areas.

My crap 2c


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## mtnbkrmike (Mar 26, 2015)

ATXZJ said:


> Prior to this, I lived in Austin, TX riding rocky/punchy tight trails with a lot of pedaling. I wouldn't choose the Druid as my only bike for that terrain and would ride something downcountry like a Transition Spur, Revel Ranger or Kona Hei Hei. If you live in an area where you have to pedal to descend fast, chunky and steep terrain, the Druid is a perfect bike.
> 
> Otherwise the extra maintenance, weight and lack of pop isn't great for flattish areas.
> 
> My crap 2c


I climbed 1020m yesterday and then descended down some of the finest, most ruggedly beautiful terrain I have ridden this year. The Druid handled everything effortlessly. Perfect bike for yesterday’s ride.

Cox Hill Trail on Trailforks


https://www.trailforks.com/trails/cox-hill-trail/


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

ATXZJ said:


> Prior to this, I lived in Austin, TX riding rocky/punchy tight trails with a lot of pedaling. I wouldn't choose the Druid as my only bike for that terrain and would ride something downcountry like a Transition Spur, Revel Ranger or Kona Hei Hei. If you live in an area where you have to pedal to descend fast, chunky and steep terrain, the Druid is a perfect bike.
> 
> Otherwise the extra maintenance, weight and lack of pop isn't great for flattish areas.
> 
> My crap 2c


Not very flat, my average ride has 3-4k feet of climbing. But i have an enduro bike that i ride most of the time and im just curious to try the druid at this point. Coming from a stumpjumper that is just a bit too big when seated. Druid seems to have a much more upright seated position as well as a shortish wheelbase that will be fun enough. I definitely have the terrain for a burly druid but it definitely will not be that kind of bike for me, just a well mannered trail bike.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

MyDadSucks said:


> Not very flat, my average ride has 3-4k feet of climbing. But i have an enduro bike that i ride most of the time and im just curious to try the druid at this point. Coming from a stumpjumper that is just a bit too big when seated. Druid seems to have a much more upright seated position as well as a shortish wheelbase that will be fun enough. I definitely have the terrain for a burly druid but it definitely will not be that kind of bike for me, just a well mannered trail bike.


Sounds like a good choice for you


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

New meats.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

Still thinking about another shock for the druid. Anyone here tried a Cane Creek DB IL Coil? Could be a good option to keep it playful (4-way adjustable) and still have more traction at the rough stuff...


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> New meats.


What is that storage bag situation? Looks like an excellent alternative to a swat box. Does it rattle/move much?


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

MyDadSucks said:


> What is that storage bag situation? Looks like an excellent alternative to a swat box. Does it rattle/move much?


One of these: B-RAD TekLite Roll-Top Bag 1L

It only rattles if you don't secure the bag strap properly. Highly recommend it, though I might switch to the smaller model as I don't find I'm using the full 1L capacity much.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

beckma said:


> Still thinking about another shock for the druid. Anyone here tried a Cane Creek DB IL Coil? Could be a good option to keep it playful (4-way adjustable) and still have more traction at the rough stuff...


not on the druid but have used that shock, “keeping it playful” is not its strong suit, definitely one of the more damped options imo


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Why do people want "playful" mountain bikes? If I'm riding down a steep rocky trail I want traction and stability, not my bike bouncing around all over the place.


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## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

meeeeep said:


> Why do people want "playful" mountain bikes? If I'm riding down a steep rocky trail I want traction and stability, not my bike bouncing around all over the place.


I have a playful bike, and more of a sled.

Both are fun. Just different, used for different things.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

meeeeep said:


> Why do people want "playful" mountain bikes? If I'm riding down a steep rocky trail I want traction and stability, not my bike bouncing around all over the place.


Its an easy thing to wrangle a fun poppy bike down a steep chute, its a whole other thing to make a ground hugging sled hop around.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

meeeeep said:


> Why do people want "playful" mountain bikes? If I'm riding down a steep rocky trail I want traction and stability, not my bike bouncing around all over the place.


IMHO, high pivot bikes are not that playful. They are for the most part plow machines. *I like that*. I've been taking advantage of the velcro effect and pushing myself to increase speed beyond my comfort zone. Seems i'm better off spending my time & money improving on that aspect of the suspension design rather than fighting it.

Want poppy and playful? Consider buying a hardtail as a second bike.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Ok got my druid. How do you route the rear brake hose? I have derailleur cable and dropper routed already but cant seem to get the brake hose to feed through


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

MyDadSucks said:


> Ok got my druid. How do you route the rear brake hose? I have derailleur cable and dropper routed already but cant seem to get the brake hose to feed through


If you've got a fancy aftermarket hoses, they might not fit nicely through the brake-line tunnel. I struggled with my Hope brake-lines, although my Shimano ones fit just fine. I think they're designed just a bit too tight.
The rear shifter tunnel OTOH, is a bit loose. The cable slides around and makes noise sometimes.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

MyDadSucks said:


> not on the druid but have used that shock, “keeping it playful” is not its strong suit, definitely one of the more damped options imo


Well that`s what I fear, too. On the other hand you can tune it at least to a bit more popy feel reduce LSR damping and having more HSR damping to prevent bucking from big hits/landings...



MyDadSucks said:


> Its an easy thing to wrangle a fun poppy bike down a steep chute, its a whole other thing to make a ground hugging sled hop around.


I agree, but like I mentioned above, pop is something you can gain via damping settings. Range is limited but still a bit manipulable to a certain level.



ATXZJ said:


> IMHO, high pivot bikes are not that playful. They are for the most part plow machines. *I like that*. I've been taking advantage of the velcro effect and pushing myself to increase speed beyond my comfort zone. Seems i'm better off spending my time & money improving on that aspect of the suspension design rather than fighting it.
> 
> Want poppy and playful? Consider buying a hardtail as a second bike.


Well, I define playfulness not just in terms of linkage/rear suspension. The geometry also plays a big role to make bikes feel playful. The Druid HA is not that flat and reach is short compared to many bikes these days.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

beckma said:


> Well, I define playfulness not just in terms of linkage/rear suspension. The geometry also plays a big role to make bikes feel playful. The Druid HA is not that flat and reach is short compared to many bikes these days.


Hard getting around a rear center that increases under compression. My HTA is also 63.5 (ish) with the 150mm fork and 2* works so thats a factor but I prefer slack HTA. 

Druid is a great bike and I have ZERO complaints about it. If I make any bike changes, it'll be drastic.


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Wednesday Stoke ride this morning.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

beckma said:


> Well that`s what I fear, too. On the other hand you can tune it at least to a bit more popy feel reduce LSR damping and having more HSR damping to prevent bucking from big hits/landings...
> 
> I agree, but like I mentioned above, pop is something you can gain via damping settings. Range is limited but still a bit manipulable to a certain level.
> 
> Well, I define playfulness not just in terms of linkage/rear suspension. The geometry also plays a big role to make bikes feel playful. The Druid HA is not that flat and reach is short compared to many bikes these days.


Ok fair enough, but why is your first move towards poppiness a coil shock? Rode the druid today with the stock DPX2 and Im not totally sure what i was expecting but i definitely was not expecting an efficient, quick handling and poppy trail bike. Pretty surprised. Not sure what shock you have now but maybe a float X would be a better starting place than a coil.


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## beckma (Jun 17, 2013)

Here my current setup:










Pulled the trigger for a cane creek DBIL Coil. It was a good offer so it was no die hard decision. Curious about the outcome.


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## Outlawed (Oct 5, 2020)

2 years, 3,000+ km's and still enjoying every minute!


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## steinline (Jun 28, 2019)

blackaptur-photo said:


> Hopefully completed this week, I've been piecing together a fairly unique druid, with a few small things to go yet, brakes, cranks, decals, grips etc
> Here's a taster - full build + details will be up on my Instagram @brokenlinesmtb - I will most likely put it on here and vital too!
> 
> View attachment 1907601
> ...


so that's a custom "regular" white paint job? doesn't look like the moss green oem. How much did that run? thinking of painting my raw matte carbon bike. thx


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## hbar (Sep 2, 2020)

FYI to anyone who might care... I have a couple of rides on the Cascade link (C1 version) with the DPX2 and so far, it feels pretty good: Seems to pedal/tech climb just as well (though is a bit more active), small bump compliance feels good, and bigger hits/drops also feel composed. The original link was great, but so far this (for me) feels significantly better. Take these observations with a spoonful of salt, of course: obviously not blind testing, I could just be justifying my investment, maybe I just like that the orange color matches my pedals and grips, etc.

I'm still messing with settings--I upped the pressure by 10-15 psi so far, and should probably see how changing the compression & rebound damping a click or two alters the feel. I'd like to hear to what other link owners did with their settings (assuming they kept the DPX2)


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

hbar said:


> FYI to anyone who might care... I have a couple of rides on the Cascade link (C1 version) with the DPX2 and so far, it feels pretty good: Seems to pedal/tech climb just as well (though is a bit more active), small bump compliance feels good, and bigger hits/drops also feel composed. The original link was great, but so far this (for me) feels significantly better. Take these observations with a spoonful of salt, of course: obviously not blind testing, I could just be justifying my investment, maybe I just like that the orange color matches my pedals and grips, etc.
> 
> I'm still messing with settings--I upped the pressure by 10-15 psi so far, and should probably see how changing the compression & rebound damping a click or two alters the feel. I'd like to hear to what other link owners did with their settings (assuming they kept the DPX2)



Pretty much my experience as well. Cascade link came with the frame when I bought it, but I used the stock link for a year. Swapped the C1 in and noticed the same as well. Didn't seem like I gave up much but I gained some small bump compliance and it felt like it had more travel. I will also say that I never got any feeling of harsh bottom out with the stock link though. Had to raise psi a bit but didn't mess with suspension settings much. A little click here and there depending on the trail I was riding.

All in all, I don't see any downside to the cascade link besides potential manufacturers warranty conflict.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

I did some back to back testing on my druid with and without the cascade link. I was at the local bike park about a month back. With the link the bike gave up (IMO) just a touch on pumpy/poppy feel but the difference on technical and/or high speed trails was night and day, it felt so much more composed.


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## Energ8t (Sep 10, 2013)

Push 11/6 on sale for $895 if you’re interested:









ELEVENSIX







www.pushindustries.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Now playing.


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## MHaager2 (2 mo ago)

beckma said:


> Here my current setup:
> 
> View attachment 2005766
> 
> ...


Be interested to hear how the CC compares with the DPX2


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## MHaager2 (2 mo ago)

Read through most of the forum looking for advice for best shock on the Druid, but can’t really get a great sense. I’m wanting to stick to an air shock, and looking for a setup that maximizes traction and gives that magic carpet ride quality rather than poppiness. Is there a tangible benefit to upgrading the rear shock? What air shock do you think would fit the bill the best in this regard?


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

MHaager2 said:


> Read through most of the forum looking for advice for best shock on the Druid, but can’t really get a great sense. I’m wanting to stick to an air shock, and looking for a setup that maximizes traction and gives that magic carpet ride quality rather than poppiness. Is there a tangible benefit to upgrading the rear shock? What air shock do you think would fit the bill the best in this regard?


the DPX2 feels pretty poppy imo, i imagine a float X2 or SD w/ megneg would feel very planted and plush.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

MHaager2 said:


> Read through most of the forum looking for advice for best shock on the Druid, but can’t really get a great sense. I’m wanting to stick to an air shock, and looking for a setup that maximizes traction and gives that magic carpet ride quality rather than poppiness. Is there a tangible benefit to upgrading the rear shock? What air shock do you think would fit the bill the best in this regard?


No experience on it, but the Float X2 would make sense. That said, I don't think the DHX2 is much heavier and it _definitely_ gives that magic carpet ride quality.


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## MHaager2 (2 mo ago)

RadicalPugilism said:


> No experience on it, but the Float X2 would make sense. That said, I don't think the DHX2 is much heavier and it _definitely_ gives that magic carpet ride quality.


Do you have yours on a druid? What's it like for rolling terrain with sudden sharp gradient changes?


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

MHaager2 said:


> Do you have yours on a druid? What's it like for rolling terrain with sudden sharp gradient changes?


Had the DHX2 on my Druid.I've since moved on to a different bike.

Coil or air - I would (and did) choose a different bike for rolling/undulating terrain. The fairly middle-of-the-road geometry makes sense for those kinds of trails, but I felt like the suspension wasn't eager to suddenly switch into sprint mode and it's not the lightest trail bike. That's even more noticeable with a coil.


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## MHaager2 (2 mo ago)

RadicalPugilism said:


> Had the DHX2 on my Druid.I've since moved on to a different bike.
> 
> Coil or air - I would (and did) choose a different bike for rolling/undulating terrain. The fairly middle-of-the-road geometry makes sense for those kinds of trails, but I felt like the suspension wasn't eager to suddenly switch into sprint mode and it's not the lightest trail bike. That's even more noticeable with a coil.


Yup those are valid points. On the other hand it's one of the most versatile bikes I have ever owned.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

MHaager2 said:


> Yup those are valid points. On the other hand it's one of the most versatile bikes I have ever owned.


Agreed. There's just so much you can do with it by swapping out parts. Wish I would have held onto mine a little longer.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Really depends on where you ride. I have two bikes and will probably invest my money into upgrading the suspension on my long travel rig with DVO. The druid will get the pike swapped out for the fully upgraded lyrik off the SX. 

As far as shocks, I like the feeling of the druid with the dpx2 and cascade link. Shock needs a rebuild so I'll send it in for a custom tune at the same time. IMHO, the bike feels so good that I noticed the fork's shortcomings before the rear shock.

With the Druid, I'm easy to please (for once)


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## ithinkibrokeit (Jan 6, 2020)

With the front and real coiled it’s still heavy but I haven’t had an issue. I switched over to TRPs from XT brakes and so far I really like them.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

ATXZJ said:


> Really depends on where you ride. I have two bikes and will probably invest my money into upgrading the suspension on my long travel rig with DVO. The druid will get the pike swapped out for the fully upgraded lyrik off the SX.
> 
> As far as shocks, I like the feeling of the druid with the dpx2 and cascade link. Shock needs a rebuild so I'll send it in for a custom tune at the same time. IMHO, the bike feels so good that I noticed the fork's shortcomings before the rear shock.
> 
> With the Druid, I'm easy to please (for once)


I’ve found this too - even with a 160mm well tuned 36, it’s the limiting factor in my riding far more than the rear end. What do you guys think gives the Druid that superior descending characteristics? I’m thinking it’s 25% leverage curve, 40% axle path and 35% lack of pedal kickback. Hmm maybe 10% proportional chain stays - or rear centers as they seem to like to call it.


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## Unbrockenchain (Aug 21, 2015)

Any word of Druid will be getting an update for next year?


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Unbrockenchain said:


> Any word of Druid will be getting an update for next year?


According to customer service, their “new” bikes will have UDH support, so I am expecting at least a small update next year. 

Personally can’t find anything wrong with my current Druid, mind you. I’m not sure what they’d change - steepen the seat angle to 76 to placate the Pinkbike comment section?

Edit: this is a very small nitpick but would be interested if they can find a way to avoid the need to adding extra links to the chain on the larger sizes. Deviate manages this!


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

I remember awhile back there was a question on this thread shout whether the cascade lower guide worked as a bashguard. Just had a great test of that today - rolled a large rock on just the wrong line today at Angwin and heard a vicious “crunch” from the bottom bracket area. 

Inspection showed some nasty gouges on the bottom of the cascade guide, but no other damage to the frame or drivetrain. Part did its job!

Of course I’ve got slight OCD about smashed parts so I’m going to order a new one now…


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> I remember awhile back there was a question on this thread shout whether the cascade lower guide worked as a bashguard. Just had a great test of that today - rolled a large rock on just the wrong line today at Angwin and heard a vicious “crunch” from the bottom bracket area.
> 
> Inspection showed some nasty gouges on the bottom of the cascade guide, but no other damage to the frame or drivetrain. Part did its job!
> 
> Of course I’ve got slight OCD about smashed parts so I’m going to order a new one now…


You replace parts every time you hit them on rocks? That sounds expensive...I would have to replace every part on my bike at this point!


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Thanksgiving was rough!


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

Aquaholic said:


> Thanksgiving was rough!
> QUOTE]
> 
> Holy smokes! This looks fun. Where is this if you don’t mind me asking?
> ...


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## Aquaholic (Jan 13, 2004)

Druid, on the rocks.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

When I'm descending fast on rough trails, I notice my ankles are in a lot of pain. At first I thought I was just being a baby but now I'm wondering if this is because of the pedal kickback. Anyone else have this problem?


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

According to Forbidden the Druid has less than 2 degrees of pedal kickback.
"Unlike traditional non-idler equipped designs we can achieve these levels of anti-squat with virtually no pedal kickback (fig E). This is great for flat pedal riders but it also means that the suspension remains fully active during pedalling efforts and in turn affords perfect traction on technical and punchy climbs."


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

ALS650L said:


> According to Forbidden the Druid has less than 2 degrees of pedal kickback.
> "Unlike traditional non-idler equipped designs we can achieve these levels of anti-squat with virtually no pedal kickback (fig E). This is great for flat pedal riders but it also means that the suspension remains fully active during pedalling efforts and in turn affords perfect traction on technical and punchy climbs."


Be that as it may, I actually switched to clipless pedals 6 months after getting my druid because my feet kept bouncing off my flats. Now that I'm reading about pedal kickback on the druid I'm wondering if that's been the problem all along. There's only two trails in North Vancouver where I have this problem. 


https://www.trailforks.com/trails/expresso/




https://www.trailforks.com/trails/john-deer/


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

I've had my feet kicked on the pedals a couple times ever on my Druid. As I recall it was high speed large impacts in rapid succession, think riding down really big stair steps. I attributed it more to a suspension set up issue than anything.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

I have two high pivots and the last thing I've experienced with them is pedal kickback.

Might be more a physical issue than mechanical. Could also be that you're hitting harder lines faster than you would on a traditional bike. My high pivots were so fast descending that I had to work on leg strength training at the gym.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

That new actofive has the nicest implementation of a floating brake arm I've ever seen but I think I'll just suck up the ankle pain since it'll hurt less than if my wife finds out I bought an actofive lol


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## ALS650L (Apr 19, 2009)

meeeeep said:


> That new actofive has the nicest implementation of a floating brake arm I've ever seen but I think I'll just suck up the ankle pain since it'll hurt less than if my wife finds out I bought an actofive lol


I haven't ridden clipless in many years, but a thought I just had. Is your foot position different? When I was riding clipless I know the range of cleat position was much farther forward than where my feet are riding flats. Seems like newer shoes have a bigger range.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

ALS650L said:


> I haven't ridden clipless in many years, but a thought I just had. Is your foot position different? When I was riding clipless I know the range of cleat position was much farther forward than where my feet are riding flats. Seems like newer shoes have a bigger range.


I have my cleats pushed all the way back on my shoes. I think my feet are in a similar position to being on flats.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Who here has experience running a 160 fork on the Druid, and what is it like?

My current setup is a 150mm Fox 36 GRIP2. I’ve tried for a year to find a happy place on this fork and I just can’t find it - no matter what combination of settings I try the fork is unacceptably harsh on chatter and rocks, even after a full service.

Recently I’ve experienced the extremely underrated MRP Ribbon Air - I’m a convert. With stock setup recommendations, this fork performs far better for me than the 36 ever has. I’m pretty sure I will swap one out for the 36. Given that, I’m wondering if I should switch to 160mm travel at the same time, and wondering if anyone could comment on this and how it impacts geometry and (particularly) climbing performance. The MRP makes it pretty easy to change travel using shims, so if it doesn’t work out I could always move back to 150. What does the peanut gallery say?


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

meeeeep said:


> When I'm descending fast on rough trails, I notice my ankles are in a lot of pain. At first I thought I was just being a baby but now I'm wondering if this is because of the pedal kickback. Anyone else have this problem?


A while back I pulled my shock and cycled the suspension to test pedal kickback. There basically isn’t any, regardless of which gear you’re in. My Nomad had comparatively way more kickback.

that said, if you’re getting ankle pain, it’s coming from somewhere. You might have too much compression damping, or maybe just clanging through the travel?


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Who here has experience running a 160 fork on the Druid, and what is it like?
> 
> My current setup is a 150mm Fox 36 GRIP2. I’ve tried for a year to find a happy place on this fork and I just can’t find it - no matter what combination of settings I try the fork is unacceptably harsh on chatter and rocks, even after a full service.
> 
> Recently I’ve experienced the extremely underrated MRP Ribbon Air - I’m a convert. With stock setup recommendations, this fork performs far better for me than the 36 ever has. I’m pretty sure I will swap one out for the 36. Given that, I’m wondering if I should switch to 160mm travel at the same time, and wondering if anyone could comment on this and how it impacts geometry and (particularly) climbing performance. The MRP makes it pretty easy to change travel using shims, so if it doesn’t work out I could always move back to 150. What does the peanut gallery say?


I wasn't happy with my fox 36 until I got a vorsorung luftkappe. It made all the difference to small bumps and diving.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

armyofevilrobots said:


> A while back I pulled my shock and cycled the suspension to test pedal kickback. There basically isn’t any, regardless of which gear you’re in. My Nomad had comparatively way more kickback.
> 
> that said, if you’re getting ankle pain, it’s coming from somewhere. You might have too much compression damping, or maybe just clanging through the travel?


I think it's time I got my storia serviced.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Who here has experience running a 160 fork on the Druid, and what is it like?
> 
> My current setup is a 150mm Fox 36 GRIP2. I’ve tried for a year to find a happy place on this fork and I just can’t find it - no matter what combination of settings I try the fork is unacceptably harsh on chatter and rocks, even after a full service.
> 
> Recently I’ve experienced the extremely underrated MRP Ribbon Air - I’m a convert. With stock setup recommendations, this fork performs far better for me than the 36 ever has. I’m pretty sure I will swap one out for the 36. Given that, I’m wondering if I should switch to 160mm travel at the same time, and wondering if anyone could comment on this and how it impacts geometry and (particularly) climbing performance. The MRP makes it pretty easy to change travel using shims, so if it doesn’t work out I could always move back to 150. What does the peanut gallery say?


I've run my druid at 140, 150, and 160 mm travel with a mix of air and coil shocks. With the stock 130 rear the 160 fork definitely felt unbalanced. I'm running it with the Cascade link now (142mm rear travel) and with this it feels much better with the 160mm. That being said I actually still mostly prefer it with the 150, steeper STA for climbing and less floppy handling on the decents. I bump to 160 for summer park season though.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

meeeeep said:


> Be that as it may, I actually switched to clipless pedals 6 months after getting my druid because my feet kept bouncing off my flats. Now that I'm reading about pedal kickback on the druid I'm wondering if that's been the problem all along. There's only two trails in North Vancouver where I have this problem.


I’m sorry but this doesn’t make sense and others comments (as well as the Druid’s own literature) point this out. The Druid has negligible pedal kickback - it’s the single most defining feature of the bike for me. I think you’re barking up the wrong tree.
That said, can you describe when you’re getting bounced off the pedals? High speed, low speed, rough choppy sections of trail, drops, square edged hits, are you bottoming out suspension? Can you describe the situations more? Might give some insight.


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## meeeeep (Apr 22, 2011)

Dingleberrry said:


> I’m sorry but this doesn’t make sense and others comments (as well as the Druid’s own literature) point this out. The Druid has negligible pedal kickback - it’s the single most defining feature of the bike for me. I think you’re barking up the wrong tree.
> That said, can you describe when you’re getting bounced off the pedals? High speed, low speed, rough choppy sections of trail, drops, square edged hits, are you bottoming out suspension? Can you describe the situations more? Might give some insight.


The ankle pain and the bouncing off the pedals was on high speed trails with drops and lots of square edged hits. I've never bottomed out the Druid. 

This video is a good example.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

meeeeep said:


> The ankle pain and the bouncing off the pedals was on high speed trails with drops and lots of square edged hits. I've never bottomed out the Druid.
> 
> This video is a good example.


Without knowing where on the trail you’re experiencing this I’m not sure we can help diagnose. In general the faster you’re going the less pedal kickback you’re likely to experience. What hubs?
With flats you generally have to roll your foot back to maintain pedal grip. If you’re doing that I’d ask what pedals and shoes. And maybe ask if it’s a fatigue thing - that’s a plenty long trail with a lot of hits.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

rpearce1475 said:


> I've run my druid at 140, 150, and 160 mm travel with a mix of air and coil shocks. With the stock 130 rear the 160 fork definitely felt unbalanced. I'm running it with the Cascade link now (142mm rear travel) and with this it feels much better with the 160mm. That being said I actually still mostly prefer it with the 150, steeper STA for climbing and less floppy handling on the decents. I bump to 160 for summer park season though.


Thanks, this is very helpful. I do not plan to run the cascade link, as I like the Push too much, and despite some posts here claiming otherwise, Push told me explicitly that my shock would go nuclear if I ran it with the Cascade link. I guess it doesn't hurt that if I go with the MRP Ribbon at 150, changing it to 160 is a pretty simple job.



meeeeep said:


> I wasn't happy with my fox 36 until I got a vorsorung luftkappe. It made all the difference to small bumps and diving.


it's pretty annoying that you need a third party upgrade to make the fork feel the way it should. I think what I'm beginning to learn is that I actively dislike Fox's entire product line.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

I've been happiest with the Druid in 140/130mm trail mode with a 2* angleset. Slacked the bike to around 64* with a STA close to 77*. Only downside was a super low BB of just over 12.25" and made worse by my 175mm cranks. Went to a 150mm fork and cascade link over the summer for more aggressive terrain/park duty. Was happy enough with that configuration that I'll probably just leave it that way.

Overall, the Druid is just a really, really good bike.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Found a cool review of the Druid yesterday.








» Forbidden Druid Review


Read more at SickLines.com




www.sicklines.com




I’d post a few highlights but the review is pretty positive - it’s hard to pick just a few things from it.


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## Dabs For Everyone (Jan 18, 2019)

Dingleberrry said:


> Found a cool review of the Druid yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





> In 2019, the Druid’s geo was right on point with a 75.6º seat angle, a 65.6º head angle. The size-specific chainstays and reaches were also right on trend. Since then we’ve seen bikes grow longer and longer. My large Druid with its 465 mm reach now corresponds to a typical size medium.


Cool review, but I'm not sure why this reviewer understands why reach has moved out since 2019 - it's because of the seat angles getting steeper and steeper. If you want the cockpit to stay the same, you need to increase the reach / maintain the effective top tube length.

As for the Druid, does anyone think that the seat tube angle needs to be steeper (which would be the only reason to increase the corresponding frame reach)? Effective and actual seat tube angle are almost identical, and it's not a long-travel bike. I've never had an issue with where the seat is - the only reason I can see to increase the STA would be to please the pinkbike comment section. The Druid is already a long bike for its use case - making it even longer would turn it into a less capable Dreadnought, IMO.


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## RadicalPugilism (Nov 24, 2020)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Cool review, but I'm not sure why this reviewer understands why reach has moved out since 2019 - it's because of the seat angles getting steeper and steeper. If you want the cockpit to stay the same, you need to increase the reach / maintain the effective top tube length.
> 
> As for the Druid, does anyone think that the seat tube angle needs to be steeper (which would be the only reason to increase the corresponding frame reach)? Effective and actual seat tube angle are almost identical, and it's not a long-travel bike. I've never had an issue with where the seat is - the only reason I can see to increase the STA would be to please the pinkbike comment section. The Druid is already a long bike for its use case - making it even longer would turn it into a less capable Dreadnought, IMO.


Since moving from the Druid to a Sentinel, I _really_ appreciate how the steeper seat tube keeps my hips above the bottom bracket.

Given the Druid's overall more conservative geo, I don't think the current STA is a dealbreaker. That said, I wouldn't complain if the V2 was just a bit longer with a steeper STA.


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## Dingleberrry (Apr 1, 2021)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Cool review, but I'm not sure why this reviewer understands why reach has moved out since 2019 - it's because of the seat angles getting steeper and steeper. If you want the cockpit to stay the same, you need to increase the reach / maintain the effective top tube length.
> 
> As for the Druid, does anyone think that the seat tube angle needs to be steeper (which would be the only reason to increase the corresponding frame reach)? Effective and actual seat tube angle are almost identical, and it's not a long-travel bike. I've never had an issue with where the seat is - the only reason I can see to increase the STA would be to please the pinkbike comment section. The Druid is already a long bike for its use case - making it even longer would turn it into a less capable Dreadnought, IMO.





RadicalPugilism said:


> Since moving from the Druid to a Sentinel, I _really_ appreciate how the steeper seat tube keeps my hips above the bottom bracket.
> 
> Given the Druid's overall more conservative geo, I don't think the current STA is a dealbreaker. That said, I wouldn't complain if the V2 was just a bit longer with a steeper STA.


I would increase the STA slightly - nothing crazy, but a degree or two, and maybe only in the larger sizes.


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

I would definitely prefer a steeper STA for my more winch and plummet rides where I'm climbing up often quite steep fire roads to get to the goods. For more rolling singletrack I think it's fine as is.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

You can drop the front end by adding an angleset.


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## KennyWatson (Sep 4, 2017)

meeeeep said:


> The ankle pain and the bouncing off the pedals was on high speed trails with drops and lots of square edged hits. I've never bottomed out the Druid.
> 
> This video is a good example.


When I ride john Deere or expresso I'm often reminded of the fact the my ankle/calf/hamstring mobility is not as good as it could be, whatever bike I happen to be on (but less travel makes it worse, it's especially noticeable when I'm on a hard tail). 

If your heels are dropped enough, especially the rear one, it's pretty tough to get bounced. 

Next time you notice it, I'd try making a conscious effort to drop your heels some more and see how it goes. 

As far as pedal kickback goes, make sure you shift gears back up especially second section of john Deere (after the little climb). 
This will take pedal kickback completely out of play as they're high speed trails. More speed and being in a higher gear both reduce pedal kickback. 

Most people will be going 20-30km/hr or faster on the fast rough sections of those trails. Pedal kickback just isn't really in play at those speeds.


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## jmcgruff (Jun 9, 2011)

dubthang said:


> I think I have it sorted out. The chain was 2 links too short causing there to be too little chain wrap on the 10 tooth cog. I'm going for a ride now to see if it's fixed. Thanks for all the input.
> 
> edit:
> The slightly longer chain was the fix. I wasn't getting enough chain wrap.


Sorry to bring this old thread back up, but I'm in the same boat running a 30t/10-46 11 speed and suffering the chain slip in the 10t (most notably). You mentioned adding 2 links, do you happen to recall exactly how many links total?


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## dubthang (Apr 2, 2009)

jmcgruff said:


> Sorry to bring this old thread back up, but I'm in the same boat running a 30t/10-46 11 speed and suffering the chain slip in the 10t (most notably). You mentioned adding 2 links, do you happen to recall exactly how many links total?


I'm not sure the total link count, but the key for me was to set the chain length with the suspension completely compressed. I used Shimano's method for chain length determination. Make sure that the chain is snaked through whatever retention device you are using also.

The reason the chain slips is because the upper pulley is out of position due to the shorter chain. This prevents the chain from having enough wrap on the cog to prevent slipping.


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## ATXZJ (Apr 9, 2012)

Crazy, of all the problems I had dialing in the drivetrain on the druid, chain slip wasn't one of them. Can say that switching from eagle to shimano made it a lot easier, and that's coming from a sram guy. One year in with the XTR 12spd, 30T sram chainring, eagle cassette & chain, no lower guide and no drops or slips.

@dubthang is 100% right about testing chain length with suspension compressed. Did mine in the big gear and tuned with the B screw.


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## fizzywater (Oct 1, 2005)

ATXZJ said:


> Crazy, of all the problems I had dialing in the drivetrain on the druid, chain slip wasn't one of them. Can say that switching from eagle to shimano made it a lot easier, and that's coming from a sram guy. One year in with the XTR 12spd, 30T sram chainring, eagle cassette & chain, no lower guide and no drops or slips.
> 
> @dubthang is 100% right about testing chain length with suspension compressed. Did mine in the big gear and tuned with the B screw.


Interesting. To be honest, I did none of that, as Forbidden’s recommended chain lengths on their website in the tech section worked great for me and following their advice regarding b-gap adjustment.


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## jmcgruff (Jun 9, 2011)

Thanks for chiming back in on this, fellas! dubthang and atxzj, I'll get back to it following your words of wisdom. The compressed procedure for sure is the most logical method to get it sorted.

Fizzywater, yes, when I first got my druid I was running a stock configuration drivetrain (32 x 10-50 12 speed) and the recommended length was spot on. I then went to a cascade link and lower guide and was able to drop to 126 links (size large)... coming up on one year, no issues. This question is for my new dreadnought build (large) with an 11 speed drivetrain, 30 x 10-46 and again running a cascade link and lower guide, so the forbidden charts aren't doing me any favors here. 

Thanks again for the help!


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

Anyone know if a DVO jade will fit the druid? Stock link. The reservoir looks quite large but the large amount of tuning option is promising.


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## Jrp103 (May 15, 2021)

MyDadSucks said:


> Anyone know if a DVO jade will fit the druid? Stock link. The reservoir looks quite large but the large amount of tuning option is promising.


my mate in Australia has one in his Druid and it fits fine . If you Google DVO Druid it comes up with lots of images too


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

steinline said:


> so that's a custom "regular" white paint job? doesn't look like the moss green oem. How much did that run? thinking of painting my raw matte carbon bike. thx


Sorry saw this and forgot to reply - this is a vinyl wrap - which by the way I dont recommend doing due to longevity (or rather lack of)


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## blackaptur-photo (May 1, 2018)

Dabs For Everyone said:


> Who here has experience running a 160 fork on the Druid, and what is it like?
> 
> My current setup is a 150mm Fox 36 GRIP2. I’ve tried for a year to find a happy place on this fork and I just can’t find it - no matter what combination of settings I try the fork is unacceptably harsh on chatter and rocks, even after a full service.
> 
> Recently I’ve experienced the extremely underrated MRP Ribbon Air - I’m a convert. With stock setup recommendations, this fork performs far better for me than the 36 ever has. I’m pretty sure I will swap one out for the 36. Given that, I’m wondering if I should switch to 160mm travel at the same time, and wondering if anyone could comment on this and how it impacts geometry and (particularly) climbing performance. The MRP makes it pretty easy to change travel using shims, so if it doesn’t work out I could always move back to 150. What does the peanut gallery say?


 I have run my druid at 160mm with a fox 36 and a smashpot coil conversion for just over 2 years now


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## armyofevilrobots (Oct 4, 2013)

blackaptur-photo said:


> I have run my druid at 160mm with a fox 36 and a smashpot coil conversion for just over 2 years now


Same here. I put a 1.5 degree headset on it, and that dropped the BB right back to how high it is supposed to be, and now I have about a 64 degree HA.


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## MyDadSucks (Sep 6, 2017)

I have a 160mm zeb on my druid right now and it seemed fine, dont really get along with the druid but the front end felt good.


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