# Anybody use a "top handle" saw?



## bridog (Sep 20, 2006)

I have a bigger Stihl MS361 with 20" bar - that's a LOT of saw to drag around the woods for many of the projects I want to work on, but it's awesome for the treework I frequently do at home and for friends/family.

I'd like to pick up a 2nd saw, smaller and lighter. It will occasionally see use for trimming trees and home and limbing/climbing work, but primarily it will be thrown in a BOB trailer, backpack, etc and used in the woods for trail building.

I'm pretty seriously considering a top-handle (aka "climbing" saw) because it is so much more compact and fairly light while still having a lot of power. I'd probably outfit it with a 14" bar, which is plenty for 99% of the work I'd do with it, and if it wasn't plenty, I'd bring my big saw out.

Anybody using a saw like this? Regrets? Like it? Brand? I'm likely going to buy a Jonsared, but would consider others.

-bridog


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## Mai (Feb 4, 2006)

I have a MS 250 that a nice size


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## splitter_66 (Oct 19, 2004)

I got the MS190 last fall for the same reason. It is small and light. But it I didn't like the top handle holding. If I buy a 3rd saw, it will be a top handle. I like the comfort of the 190 being similar to my 310, just smaller.


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## mudflap (Feb 23, 2004)

*Caution!*

a quick word on intended use: top handle saws are specialty saws and intended for such: limited cutting in specific situations. Don't ever expect to use it, safely, for prolonged trail clearing in thick to medium brush. Probably a great saw for limited trail work.


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## bridog (Sep 20, 2006)

Okay, just to clarify a couple of things...

1. Not really looking for general "what saw should I get" type comments. I appreciate the info, but I have owned a bunch of "conventional" rear-handle saws and wouldn't have a hard time selecting a smaller one of those.

2. I really just am looking for feedback from folks who have actually used, or made a concious decision not to use, a top-handle climber's saw for trail building applications.

3. I understand that a top-handle is inherently less safe, but the powerplant and cutting mechanism are the same, so other than the hand position being somewhat cumbersome, why couldn't I use this saw for "prolonged use." My experience is that just about any saw, when tuned up properly, will run all day, tank after tank. The operator wears out WAY before the saw!

4. I would argue that any chainsaw is unsafe in thick to medium brush. That's not what I'm looking to do - I need to cut the occasional deadfall, and cut wood for building trail features. Here in the northeast a BIG tree might be 24-36" diameter, but most trees are 6-18" diameter, so I can cut just about anything with a 14" bar and patience.

*I'm pretty well convinced about this top-handle thing, but I'm looking for some positive or negative feedback before I pull the trigger.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Dec 9, 2007)

bridog said:


> ...why couldn't I use this saw for "prolonged use." My experience is that just about any saw, when tuned up properly, will run all day, tank after tank. The operator wears out WAY before the saw!...


I have a Stihl 05L "arborist" saw, or what you call a climbing saw. I bought it used about 20 yrs ago and I love it. These little saws are designed for professional use and will run all day as you said. They are great for tight work ie. trimming limbs and brush. Stihl no longer makes the 05L but they make a couple of newer models that will set you back about $500 new. Since you already have a larger saw then you will love the little saw if used as designed. (Buy a used one like I did...they are hard to wear out.)

I killed mine...it gave up the ghost just last month. Last year we had some flooding and my saw was submerged for several days. When I found it, I intended to take it to the shop to see if it could be salvaged, but I got sidetracked..._for about two months!_:madman: I just knew it would be completely locked up with rust...I pulled the rope and it still turned, so I changed the spark plug, put fresh mix in it and it cranked right up. I used it the rest of the summer and some this winter but there was some damage done by being submerged that finally did it in. I've used larger saws and the little top handle ones. They both have there place, but, I'd buy another 05L in a heartbeat.

Mikey


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## Memphisrider (Jul 8, 2005)

I have the Stihl MS192T.

It is perfect for the BOB trailer, leaving room for other tools.

I also strap it to my DR bush hog just in case I come upon a surprise limb or two.


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## blahwtf? (Aug 6, 2005)

i have used both the 192t and the rear handle 170, both are great saws at a decent price but i cringe at using the little guys on anything over 3" diameter. the 192 is terrific because it fits much easier on a backboard or rear rack. the 200t is more expensive, but is capable of larger or harder trees.


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## Landahl Calrissian (Nov 14, 2006)

I've spent a ton of time on both top and rear hand saws.

Top handle saws are great for what they were designed for, cutting branches/trees smaller than 3" in awkward positions such as what a climber might find themselves in.

I would err on the side of safety if I knew I was cutting larger deadfall and trees and use a rear handle saw. If you are clearing smaller corridor trees a top would work but I find myself fatigued more quickly with a top saw, which leads to unsafe conditions.

A commercial level handsaw, Silky, http://www.silkysaws.com/, will be just as effective and time efficient in most corridor situations.

I've also picked up whats called the snap cut from a climber I know.
http://www.waa-isa.org/pdf/MarApr2008/MarApr08-ChainSawTechn.pdf
page 3.
Works well for small standing trees in the corridor. You make the snap cut then leave the tree to be removed by others or when you retrun without the saw, leaving both hands on the saw.
The article has some great info on lots of other cuts for situations we find ourselves in when clearing trail.

I guess my point is to do what is most safe. Top cut for under 3", rear cut over 3", for fatigue reasons.

If you do get the top saw or any saw, I recommend Stihl.


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## th29 (Nov 4, 2004)

I've been using an Echo CS300 with a 14" bar for years. I've used a variety of other standard saws from 14" - 20", but the CS300 has been my most reliable and the most user friendly saw that I own. It's super light-weight and has run trouble free. I could see how a larger top-handle (aka arborist, pruning saw) could cause fatigue and a longer bar could increase the chance for kickback, but this set-up has been just right for trail maintenance.

As far as use, I appreciate it's light weight when walking trail doing minor clearing. It's also easily mountable on a modified panier rack. 

I also use it for detail work on log bridges to create notches for joinery, etc. This can get a little tricky in terms of kickback, since you're using the tip of the bar. Overall though, I feel safer using the cs300 for close quarter work since I can keep it away from my body, and don't always have to have my feet planted so close to whatever I'm cutting. You can also see what you're cutting much better than with a larger conventional saw.

As far as larger trees go, I've found that although the bar length on a top handle saw is usually shorter, there's plenty of extra power that allows you to bury the bar completely and make two passes from opposite sides of larger logs.


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## EHCRain (Jun 23, 2008)

I have a Sthil MS361 as well and just last year added a Echo 330T to compliment it. For small brush the Echo is my go to, great for anything under 3 or 4 inches. Larger than 4 inches i grab the MS361no matter what type of cut i will be making. Sometimes if only a few things need cutting I will just grab a good sharp axe and not worry about the chainsaws at all. YMMV


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## barrybs (Mar 11, 2007)

I bought a Stihl MS 192 T C-E awhile ago and love it. I use it mostly for clearing deadfall from MTB trails. I bought a backpack that I can slip it right into and carry it while riding. This way I can go out after a windstorm and clear several trees from many miles of trails in pretty short time. Sometimes a longer bar would be nice, but you can always just cut from both sides on a large tree.


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