# How long to let primer dry and how much to sand?



## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

I just finished spraying primer on my bike frame - it was the cheap stuff you get at Walmart. How long will it take to dry? Also, what grade sand paper should I use and how long should I sand it for? I think I may have put a little too much on...two cans on a bike frame alone, but oh well. It was hard to see and was dark by the time I finished. Yes, another learning experience. :eekster:


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

+ rep for the most entertaining post of the day.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Can anyone please post some helpful, friendly advice?


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## azspray (Mar 24, 2010)

It should say on the back of the can how long you should wait for it to dry. 24 hrs is pretty safe.I used 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wet sanded the primer until smooth. No runs or orange peel ( rough texture) if you sand through the primer just dry off the frame and re prime that spot. Keep the sandpaper wet,use a bucket of water with a couple drops of dish soap to keep the sand paper from clogging.Your goal is to get the primer smooth so when you top coat with final color it is smooth as well.


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## AZ (Apr 14, 2009)

2 cans? I would let it dry at least 24 hrs. Sand with 220 until smooth then hit it lightly with 320 to remove the 220 scratches. Degrease before spraying color, the oils from your hands will make paint do all kinds of hinky stuff. Put the color on in several light, even coats. Take your time. Good luck.


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## CHUM (Aug 30, 2004)

getagrip said:


> Can anyone please post some helpful, friendly advice?


helpful = this is a 'mountain biking' site....not a 'how to paint' site.

Google elsewhere unless you have questions pertaining to 'mountain biking'....or hell, cycling in general

friendly = what i posted originally.

edit - damn i'm feeling ornery....and it feels good *craksopenanotherIPA*


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Two cans on a bike frame is a LOT for a single application of primer. Use some 400 grit and wet sand it gently. Wipe it down really good with a clean rag and give it a couple of hours to dry and give it a very thin coat of primer. let that dry and then one more thin coat of primer. Just breathe on that really gently with some superfine steel wool and you should be ready to apply color. The can should recommend drying time before it's ready for recoat or to apply color.

What kind of paint are you going to be using?

I did a Schwinn Sting Ray frame back in the 70's and it took 14 cans of genuine Schwinn candy apple red lacquer by the time I was finished (including the chain guard). I would give it a couple of very thin coats each day and use a superfine steel wool in between coats. Nothing short of stunning when I got done. Slick as glass and so deep you could get lost looking into it. Of course that was overkill for a bike frame, but it did come out very nice.

It all depends on what you want for the finished product. The main thing is not to put it on too thick at one time. Several thin coats will come out better than one thick coat. It's easy to get runs with all the odd nooks and crannies in a bike frame if you're not careful. Lighter colored primer should make the color 'pop' more.

I used to paint fishing lures to look like rainbow trout for extra money about 18 years ago. Most people were convinced I airbrushed them, but the only thing I used the airbrush for was the clear coat. I had a whole box of different colors of rattle-can Krylon and other oddball stuff. Did a lot of airbrush work on RC car bodies years ago too. Fades, flames, pinstripes, etc. Those are different though because you're painting from the inside out on a clear lexan body and the primer is the last thing you spray on.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks to everyone who provided helpful advice. To Chum, please note that I'm asking for advice on how to paint a MOUNTAIN BIKE on a MOUNTAIN BIKE forum. So if you put two and two together, you can logically deduce that my question will be helpful to anyone else who is a member of this forum who is painting a mountain bike, and also to anyone who may use GOOGLE to find information on this same topic.


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## ratmonkey (Feb 10, 2011)

Not too many people paint their mtbs, not too many of those do it "right". You'd be best served looking on a paint suppliers web site, youtube, or an automotive forum.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks again for the helpful responses. I didn't get a chance to wet sand, and will not be able to sand until at least tomorrow night, if not Friday. Would you still recommend the 400 grit, or would it be better to start off with the 220 or 320, and then proceed to 400? Also, I'm assuming the higher the number, the finer the grit. Also, I guess I should avoid a machine sander, and do all of the remaining sanding by hand, right? Oh, and I'll be using Rust-Oleum Metallic Blue spray paint. It won't be the nicest paint job in the world, but it will look much better than what I started with, at least from a distance! :thumbsup:


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## yumen (Jul 7, 2011)

more advise?


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

Lots of ways to climb the mountain. This is what I would do:

Hand sand with a fairly light touch on the primer. A "machine" sander will blow through the primer in short order and leave swirl scratches that would possibly be visible through metallic paint.

220? I wouldn't unless you applied the primer with a basting brush 

320? Maybe if you have some texture you want to knock down.

If you do use 220, then follow up with 320 for just a bit to knock down the scratches from the 220, and then finish with 400 to knock down the scratches from the 320.

If it were me, I would hit it with one last thin coat of primer so it's coated evenly, and then the #000 steel wool before adding color. 

When you're shooting the color, I would shoot the hard parts (places where tubes meet, etc.) first with a few strategically placed shots, very thin, and then let them dry a little. Come back and shoot the rest with smooth controlled strokes. Let it dry completely, overnight. Hit it very lightly with the steel wool, and then a couple more very thin coats. The longer you let it dry, the less chance you have of easily chipping the paint when you reassemble the bike. Skip steps or hurry the job at your own peril


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Hope this is not to late but don't use 220 on 1k primer for a finish sanding it will take it off to fast and leave gouges. Just use 400 wet dry and if you are going to use a silver or something metallic it wont hurt to to go over the 400 with 600. FYI you dont need so much primer on a bike. Another thing when you do the color coats put it on slow all at once in the same day be patient so you dont get runs. You dont want the color to dry over night between coats because of etching. Paint will stick better if it all etches together so you don't want it totally dry between coats. Also if you are clear coating be careful and clear b4 the color dries to much so it etches good. Did you strip the paint? If you did I hope you used etching primer on the bare metal. Better to get advice b4 you prime next time you probably just added 300 grams of unneeded primer. If I were you I would sand most of it off and if needed put a thin finishing coat. When you prime with a rattle can you should put it on thin and sand in 30min than re coat not just spray 2 cans. Priming should only take 2hrs and if you have a heat gun 45min but if you use a heat gun be careful it can bubble if you hold it to close. Also b4 you paint go over the frame with a tacrag to get off the dust and if you cant get a tac rag use some painter tape. 
Any way good luck and yes I am a auto painter so if you need some help ask first you can add me on friends list. 
PS I am in Europe so I am 6hrs ahead so after 6pm your time I am hard to get.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

jeffj said:


> Lots of ways to climb the mountain. This is what I would do:
> 
> Hand sand with a fairly light touch on the primer. A "machine" sander will blow through the primer in short order and leave swirl scratches that would possibly be visible through metallic paint.
> 
> ...


Good advice if you let it sit over night you should skuff the paint b4 you recoat. 
And like jeff said be patient or you well get a crappy paint job. If you go blasting the color like you did the primer you will get runs and reactions. Be patient and put light coats.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for your advice.

I haven't started sanding yet, but will tomorrow, and hopefully paint it too if it doesn't rain. I used a small power sander to sand off the original paint, but I didn't honestly sand too much off. There were a couple of places were the metal frame was showing, but that was mostly due to scraping off the original stickers with a razor blade. After I started primering, I noticed there was still some leftover sticker in the lower rear triangle of the frame right below where the chain would be, but oh well.

I have two cans of spray paint I'm planning to use, which will be enough for two coats. I wasn't planning on putting on a clear coat, but I did buy some Trek stickers on eBay which I intend to put on the bike, so I would only want to do a clear coat if it is necessary and or cheap. I don't expect this to be the best quality paint job, so I'm not stressing about it...I do think the bike will look much better than what I started with. Depending on how much I like the bike after everything is done, I may opt to re-paint it at some point by a professional, but for now, I just really want to get it put together and ride it!

One question: how many hours should I wait for the paint to dry before putting the parts back onto the bike?


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

24hrs will be fine for dry time and you need to make sure the color coat is ok without a clear over. Some color is not durable because it was designed for a clear to be over it.


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## Heavy Fluid (Mar 31, 2011)

I am hoping to see some pictures of the final product if possible.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Heavy Fluid said:


> I am hoping to see some pictures of the final product if possible.


I plan on posting before and after photos. Barring a setback of some sort, I hope to have some pictures up late on Sunday night. I promise, the paint job will be nothing to brag about, but hopefully, someone who is painting their mountain bike will see this thread and learn from my mistakes!


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

getagrip said:


> I plan on posting before and after photos. Barring a setback of some sort, I hope to have some pictures up late on Sunday night. I promise, the paint job will be nothing to brag about, but hopefully, someone who is painting their mountain bike will see this thread and learn from my mistakes!


lol yeah thats cool next time you can post as you go


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

One more question:

Just putting two coats of paint on the bike - waited about half an hour in between coats. It seems like the second coat of paint went on rougher, and the finish is a little abrasive, perhaps because of the metal chips in the paint. I purchased a can of clear coat, and also some 600 grit sand paper, which is designed to be used post-paint job. Will this do the trick to smoothen out the abrasiveness, or is there a better method?

Update 1/2 hour later...

I just touched the paint with my finger. I can literally scrape the excess off with my finger! I'm now wondering if I just need to buffer, rather than sand it. If I need to sand it, my buddy has some 2000 grit sandpaper.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

If its hot out and you put it on to thin the paint will dry to fast and it will be rough like that sand it lightly with some 600 or 1500 or 2000 whatever you got and recoat a little heavier next time


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## DeepseaDebo (Oct 20, 2009)

CHUM said:


> helpful = this is a 'mountain biking' site....not a 'how to paint' site.
> 
> Google elsewhere unless you have questions pertaining to 'mountain biking'....or hell, cycling in general
> 
> friendly = what i posted originally.


he is painting a mountain bike... isn't he? if you don't know anything about painting or the thread just don't post. what use is having thousands of posts behind you name if they are all crap and useless for example this post right here.
Stick around the thread and you might learn something... scary i know.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for your support Deapsea.

So today I finished painting the frame, but I had a major debacle yesterday. I had picked up a can of 96 cent Walmart black spray paint to touch up my seatpost and handlebars, which had dings in them. After sanding down the excess paint with 2000 grit, I was ready to spray on the clear coat. After a minute or two of clearcoating, I noticed something wasn't right. It wasn't clear coat that I was putting on my bike...it was that can of black spray paint!

So...I figured what the heck and srayed the whole can on, then picked up a can of Rustoleum gloss black to finish job. So much for a blue bike, but I'm ok with it because the blue paint job didn't look very good, and a lot of the flaws due to my lack of pre-paint preparation showed up pretty good. The black paint seems to mask them a little better.

On that note, two final questions:

1. How necessary is it to put a clear coat on? I'm so utterly sick of painting that I just want to be done with it, but I'm willing to put the clear coat on if that will help, since its already not the greatest paint job.

2. Drying time on the paint is 2 to 4 hours. Its 92 degrees outside. If I decide to apply the clear coat, is it ok to do this after just 2 hours, or should I wait the entire 4 hours?

Tomorrow night after work I will start assembling the bike, but I don't think I'll be done with everything until Tuesday night, since I need the help of a friend to make the derailleur adjustments and make sure the cranks are properly torqued. So, look for pictures late Tuesday night in the Begginer's Corner section of the forum in a seperate thread.


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## DeepseaDebo (Oct 20, 2009)

i would wait the entire 4 hours don't forget to factor in humidity when painting plays a large role in how things turn out.


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## Grno (Feb 4, 2010)

the paint doesnt need to be completely dry for you to put on the clear coat. just make sure the paint isnt wet. you should be able to look and tell if it is still wet or dry. if you taped of anything on the bike you didnt want painted and the tape got paint on it touch the tape to tell if it is dry or not.

depending on the type of paint you do not really have to have a clear coat but I would put on one just to protect the paint better. Im about to start painting an old bmx bike i have just for fun and im putting a clear coat on it for sure just to help protect it.


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## Grno (Feb 4, 2010)

also for future reference for anyone because of the shape of bikes I would never use 220 grit sandpaper on it. With it having round tubes it makes it way to easy to burn through the primer. Depending on how much primer was put on I wouldnt even use 320. 400 wet is the best way to go.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Well, I opted not to go for the clear coat. I was going to do it at my friend's house where I painted the bike, but I got a text from a cute girl friend of mine who wanted to go biking, so I opted to go for a bike ride instead. I could have done both, but that would have meant another day of delays and I wanted to get this bike built - plus I had enough of the painting process. When I took the frame home, I was able to view it from different angles, and it looks like what I really need is another coat of paint in certain areas. I'm hoping to just get the bike dirty from riding it and then I won't care about the paint job so much! 

For anyone planning to paint a bike, I say this: pay someone else to have it powder coated! Either that, or plan on a lot of time sanding, primering, resanding, painting, sanding, painting, and more sanding. It was much more painstaking and time consuming than I ever imagined, and the end result will be far less than perfect. So, unless you are very patient person, I recommend forking out the extra money and have a professional do the work for you.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

getagrip said:


> Well, I opted not to go for the clear coat. I was going to do it at my friend's house where I painted the bike, but I got a text from a cute girl friend of mine who wanted to go biking, so I opted to go for a bike ride instead. I could have done both, but that would have meant another day of delays and I wanted to get this bike built - plus I had enough of the painting process. When I took the frame home, I was able to view it from different angles, and it looks like what I really need is another coat of paint in certain areas. I'm hoping to just get the bike dirty from riding it and then I won't care about the paint job so much!
> 
> For anyone planning to paint a bike, I say this: pay someone else to have it powder coated! Either that, or plan on a lot of time sanding, primering, resanding, painting, sanding, painting, and more sanding. It was much more painstaking and time consuming than I ever imagined, and the end result will be far less than perfect. So, unless you are very patient person, I recommend forking out the extra money and have a professional do the work for you.


Yeah its not easy to pant something when I started painting cars I messed up so much stuff it was crazy. You cant imagine the amount of stuff that can go wrong painting something. If you are patient and do the steps exactly as suggested its not hard to paint a bike frame. Its your first time and give it a few more tries you will get it its fun and I think all part of the hobby. Its really not so painstaking it would have been much easier if I explained it to you via skype or something like that. The problem is you did not know the correct steps. If I explained them to you correctly could have done it fine.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

jpeters said:


> Yeah its not easy to pant something when I started painting cars I messed up so much stuff it was crazy. You cant imagine the amount of stuff that can go wrong painting something


You know what's really funny? When I took a look at it up close after I got it home, it turns out that I missed most of the back side of the seat tube with all four coats of paint, so I had to laugh at that one. Its important to switch up the angles you are painting it from - in my case, I was hanging it veritically by the head tube. I'm going to go over this spot and a few other places I missed with a foam brush and some black paint just to touch it up a little.


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## 96p993 (May 21, 2011)

I agree with jpeters...I have painted many cars and motorcycles, the number key to a quality paintjob is prep work. Without really good, detailed prep work your paint just wont adhere like you want it to. Priming, sealing, painting, and clearing really isnt that tough to do you just have to know what you are getting into and lay down your finish to end steps in advance...Hope it all works out


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Well, I didn't want to post any photos of my rebuild until I was completely finished...tomorrow with the help of a friend I'll be putting on the chain, cables and doing the derailleur and brake adjustments. However, I did say I'd have a picture up tonight, so here is a sneak peak for anyone who still cares - more pictures will follow in my before and after thread, which will hopefully be up by Thursday:


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

Looks good from my house:thumbsup:


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## Heavy Fluid (Mar 31, 2011)

I'm not gonna lie. That looks pretty good, especially for a rattle can job. Looking forward to seeing more pics, maybe some close ups.

BTW - what kind of a bike is it?


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks guys. I'll take some close up phoots, and you will see the flaws. Originally, I used blue paint, followed by cheap Walmart black paint, followed by Gloss Rustoleum. When you look closely, you will see the areas I missed and also where the paint goes from kind of a matte black to a gloss black. I think that my poor sanding job was covered up by the two extra layers of blue underneath the gloss black, so I think that helped the finish. I also dinged the frame a couple of times after getting the paint on, so that may also be noticieable in the photos. Truthfully, though, seeing the bike all put together makes me not care as much about the flaws in the paint job, so I'm much happier with the finished product than I was a few days ago when I finished painting the frame. I think I'll care even less when I ride it, which will be today unless I get an unexpected curve ball thrown at me!

I've since added a few white Trek stickers which improves the appearence. I may also paint the handlebars and seatpost either white or blue (the color of the cage) to give it a little contrast. Maybe even blue cables, but for now I'm sticking with the stock black ones the bike came with.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

LOL you just added 500 grams of paint to your bike:thumbsup:


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Heavy Fluid said:


> I'm not gonna lie. That looks pretty good, especially for a rattle can job. Looking forward to seeing more pics, maybe some close ups.
> 
> BTW - what kind of a bike is it?


Below are some closer up photos of the paint job and some obvious flaws. Honestly, I think the paint is going to fall off sooner than later - I dinged some paint off just by putting it on the bike rack! Its ok though - my friend helped me put together the rest of it and get the gears and brakes adjusted. It took 3 hours, but I was able to take it for a spin and it rides pretty nicely. Its a Trek 820 frame, and now has Deore components. I know...not the best frame, but I rebuilt it because I do a lot of longer rides on pavement and dirt roads, and the Trek 820 geometry works pretty good for that. Anyway, here are the photos - was going to take more, but my camera batteries died and the camera auto shut off:


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Sorry, photos didn't upload. I've tried it several times - the message keeps saying "failed to upload". Any reason why this is?


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## Heavy Fluid (Mar 31, 2011)

www.photobucket.com to host them, and then just copy the


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## pfox90 (Aug 8, 2010)

Looks good


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## brent878 (Apr 17, 2007)

looks good. I want to see it with the stickers on. Ya painting is alot of work to do it right. And its not even the painting, its the endless sanding and preping before that always gets me. But everyone has to start somewhere, your next paint job will be 10 times better, and the next one after that will be better, etc etc. 

A little trick I use when rattle can painting is I stick the can in some warm/hot water to warm up the paint before I spray it on. I get less orange peel when I do it that way.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for the tip about photobucket. :thumbsup:

Ok, here are some closeups of some of the flaws. Some of these were created simply by "dinging" the bike in different places by bumbing into things. The biggest paint debacle that's visible is at the front of the bike on the head tube, where I hung the frame from a rope to paint it. There are also other parts of the bike I missed, but now that I've ridden it, its not such a big deal. I think the paint is going to look really ugly by the end of the summer, but that's ok, because I'm really enjoying the ride. I'm thinking I'll just bang it up this summer, let the paint fall off, and then get it powder coated by next riding season...by that point, it will be a good idea anyway to take it apart to give it a tune up!

Right after I make this reply, I'm going to post some before and after photos in a new thread, including the photos with the Trek logo.

EDIT Come to think of it, you can see a few of the logos on the bike - I also put trek lettering. I actually had two more stickers for it, which I screwed up putting on, including the Trek shield that goes on the front of the bike. Oh well, all part of the learning process! 








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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

I've painted more than my fair share of lures, cars and bikes. Unless you plan to finish with clear coat, you should strive for painting it in one day, 3 light coats to get it to color cover evenly, then the last coat needs to be a somewhat heavy wet coat, sprayed during the portion of the day when the relative humidity is lowest. Any time the humidity is under 30%, it's pretty easy to get a good final coat that looks "wet" and deep. You also can avoid runs if you can rotate the frame so that the runny spots can't "puddle up" or run, by making gravity do the work to prevent the runs.

Top lure in the photo is a jeffj spray painted lure, an AC Plug I bought at Gallions in Castaic.
The other 3 lures are lures I airbrushed myself with laquer colors and an epoxy clear coat sealer.










One look at the spray splatter and "spit" on the top lure and you know it's spray can job. Better to get a bike frame painted with an air sprayer than paint in a can.


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for the photos. For the benefit of everyone reading this, can you please elaborate a little about what one needs to purchase in order to use an airsprayer vs a can of spray paint? Also, if possible, please provide an example of a bike frame you have painted with this method, as there are going to be differences between painting a bike and painting a fishing lure.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

You can get a good finish with a rattle can you just need to be skilled. I can paint a bike frame with a rattle can and have it turn out good. It will not be as good or as durable but the average person would say it looks good. 

As far as what do you need to paint a frame with a paint gun well that is expensive. But if you invest in the tools it would be a nice investment. I think for about 300 to 400 dollars you could get yourself a good hobby setup. 

1. You need a compressor (not to small) 200
2. you need a paint gun ( for frames a cheap gun is ok) 50 
3. you need air hose and a inline water filter 50 
4. Can of 2 part clear 40 
5. Can of paint thinner to clean the gun 20 
6. Can of paint reducer to reduce the paint and or clear 30 
7. last but not least you need to go get your color coat 20 to 100


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## FroggyBiker (Jan 26, 2009)

a rattle can pait job is a damn good way to keep your bike from being stolen!I knew plenty of guys who spray painted bikes back home one dudes rig was a 6000 dollar custon built Jamis Dakar.. he painted it black with no markings on it ....( and people thought I was nutts sinkin 3500 into a rig!)keeps thieves from eyeing your rig.... they dont look at components they look to see if it's "PURDY" I have'nt owned a rig in nearly 30 years I did'nt redo the paint on.... and guess what NONE of mine have ever been stolen... cource the fact is I also carry a 9 foot long 12mm diameter cable lock and a large padlock to lock her up with too......


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## Boyonabyke (Sep 5, 2007)

getagrip said:


> Thanks for the photos. For the benefit of everyone reading this, can you please elaborate a little about what one needs to purchase in order to use an airsprayer vs a can of spray paint? Also, if possible, please provide an example of a bike frame you have painted with this method, as there are going to be differences between painting a bike and painting a fishing lure.


The differences are minimal... you are painting a round surface which makes the distance of the sprayer somewhat variable for coverage, versus a flat surface. Stroke consistently on the speed of travel of the air gun. Adjust the air pressure and the air flow so the paint gun or air brush doesn't spit Reduce the paint properly with thinner so it flows properly once on the finished surface without orange peeling. Experiment. Keep the nozzle tip clean, and once you start spraying, keep spraying. Keep your equipment clean and it will work properly


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## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I hope you didn't leave the brake adjusted this way.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type


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## ricky916 (Jun 7, 2011)

I'm spraying a 04 GT frame I got, stripped the paint (aerosol aircraft stripper) and used steel wool, then I applied a light coat, saw some imperfections used 1200 grit WET sanded it, so it was butter smooth, literally just applied another light coat on it, going to wait another 30-45 mins and apply one more light coat and then go pick up my gf from work and then buy another can (I'm leaving it primer'd, flat white) and when it's dry tomorrow, I'm going to use 1200 grit very lightly and give it a another sand, another coat and again a light sand.
Using rustoleom flat white primer made for bare metal, works great.
I think I'm going to leave it flat primer white, just because I like the look, going to add a couple GT decals on the side and start taking apart my bike and adding the parts to this frame.
I might add a gloss clear coat but not sure.


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## jpeters (Nov 19, 2010)

at least use a flat topcoat dont just leave the primer


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## ragnar.jensen (Jul 21, 2009)

getagrip said:


> ... please provide an example of a bike frame you have painted with this method, as there are going to be differences between painting a bike and painting a fishing lure.


 Here's the latest one I did:

Before:









Stripped to bare metal, freshly cleaned with alcohol:









The paint:









The painter (me):









Two coats of primer:









Four coats of black:









Glossy!


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## getagrip (Mar 26, 2008)

I just now noticed your post. FUNNY! Yeah, I fixed that!



jeffj said:


> I hope you didn't leave the brake adjusted this way.
> 
> Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Linear Pull Brake Service (V-brake style)


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## furryurry (Aug 25, 2011)

good job on that bike


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