# 180 mm crankset for tall riders



## unfriendlyGiant (Apr 15, 2008)

*me too*



thecrackerasscracker said:


> Im 6' 5" and was wondering if switching for 175 to 180mm would be better for me for all mtn riding


I was pondering the same move...any inexpensive 180 cranks out there?


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## thecrackerasscracker (Jan 12, 2008)

Im 6' 5" and was wondering if switching for 175 to 180mm would be better for me for all mtn riding


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## thecrackerasscracker (Jan 12, 2008)

truvativ makes a stylo crankset 
i found it ebay for 130 with shipping


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## ImaKlyde (Sep 6, 2004)

FWIW, I've got 180 RaceFace (square tapers) on my SS. It's sort of an AM/light FR SS (sturdy, Z1 light, etc) and have had zero issues in two years.

Brock...


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## bigjp (Nov 7, 2008)

I have a pair of the 2009 stylo cranks in 180mm, and absolutely love them I am 6'5" with a 36" pant inseam. I was surprised how much better the bike feels with the longer cranks, it just feels like I fit better, and my spin is much smother now. I also noticed I can pedal slower on the long high altitude grunt climbs, which helps keep me from going anarobic, and helps my lungs.


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## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

I run 180 - 190 mm cranks on my different bikes. At 6'6", I have found it makes a big difference. I even run 180's on the road bike. 

180 mm Stylos are nice cranks, I rode the SS version for a year with no issues. But, if you want something beefier consider Profile Racing or any BMX crank. They will usually come in a variety of sizes, I have 182 mm and 190 mm Profiles. You can get them with a spider to run a double or triple chainring.


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## beastwood9 (Nov 22, 2007)

*crankin*



anthony.delorenzo said:


> I run 180 - 190 mm cranks on my different bikes. At 6'6", I have found it makes a big difference. I even run 180's on the road bike.
> 
> 180 mm Stylos are nice cranks, I rode the SS version for a year with no issues. But, if you want something beefier consider Profile Racing or any BMX crank. They will usually come in a variety of sizes, I have 182 mm and 190 mm Profiles. You can get them with a spider to run a double or triple chainring.


I suppose one advantage of longer cranks is being able to lower the seat, especially since a lot us 'run out of post' relative to handlebar height. Great thread!


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## bigtymerider (Oct 4, 2008)

*Custom Cranks*

If you look online there are websites that tell you by your inseam what your crank length should be. you might be surprised that 180 will be considerably short, the guy building my bike is 6'4" and uses a 190 or 195 crank arm. If you look hard you can find them cheaper then Zinn, those prices are crazy. You also have to take into account ground clearance my ideal crank length is 230 that might be a little long at the bottom of my rotation and too close to the ground.


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## V.I. Clyde (Mar 7, 2008)

Just received a 180mm XT Crankset from Chainreaction for about $155.00...


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## siv (Aug 13, 2006)

Can someone explain to me how 5mm makes a difference? Im the tallest 6 footer in the world, long arms with a 34-35 inseam and tired of feeling like Im going over the bars without lowering the seat.


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## scottzg (Sep 27, 2006)

siv said:


> Can someone explain to me how 5mm makes a difference? Im the tallest 6 footer in the world, long arms with a 34-35 inseam and tired of feeling like Im going over the bars without lowering the seat.


beats me, i have 180mm cranks on one bike and i doubt i'd notice if i hadn't been the one to put them on there. I've got a 36" inseam, so i should probably be on something even longer.

I guess you get to lower your seat 5mm... but really, you're lowering your seat half a centimeter, it doesn't make that much difference. Having the bars only an inch or two lower than the seat makes a big difference though. That means a stack of stem spacers and high-rise bars for me.


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## thecrackerasscracker (Jan 12, 2008)

well i had to buy a new crank so i got a 180mm truvative stylo
ill see if it makes a difference


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## iamandy (Nov 23, 2005)

bigtymerider said:


> If you look hard you can find them cheaper then Zinn, those prices are crazy.


Got any urls???


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## ImaKlyde (Sep 6, 2004)

*Here*



iamandy said:


> Got any urls???


High Sierra

High Sierra makes the cranks Zinn sells on their sight. These are the *SAME* cranks just without the "Zinn" on them. They are not cheap cranks, but they are high quality and they are more than willing to talk to you about what they think about crank length for you on a specific bike.

These are good cranks and strong enough for hard riding clydes. I think there are options just as strong (and cheaper) in 180, but it's tough to beat them for cranks longer than that.

Brock...


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## anthony.delorenzo (Aug 17, 2006)

Most good BMX cranks go up to 190 and are crazy strong. No need for customs unless you want to go beyond that.


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## iamandy (Nov 23, 2005)

I don't know the weight of zinn/high sierra but they've got to be lighter than most of the bmx steel boat anchor cranks. right?

thanks for the link. I'd like to try a pair of 190s.


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## keen (Jan 13, 2004)

6'4" and debated if I should go to 180's as I thought 5mm wasn't that big of a difference ??? I was wrong - really feels easier to make steep slow climbs. Almost makes me want to try a Zinn 185mm set.


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## 2 Bigsteve (Jan 11, 2009)

*185 surleys*

I went from 175 XTs to 185 Surleys and realy like it. I prefer to pedal at a slower cadence. I'm only 6'3" but at a current 275lbs I like the torque advantage when climbing.


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## Tjaard (Aug 17, 2007)

siv said:


> Can someone explain to me how 5mm makes a difference? Im the tallest 6 footer in the world, long arms with a 34-35 inseam and tired of feeling like Im going over the bars without lowering the seat.


Don't know that the 5mm drop in seatheight would help with that.
For Going over the Bars:

-Raise your bars(find some high rise bars, max out the spacers and use a high rise stem
-Get a Gravity Dropper or other post with handlebar controlled dropping
-Get a shorter stem so you can get your weight further back
-Check that your fork is set-up properly: not too much rebound damping,not too much sag and maybe some compression damping if your fork has a platform system, to combat 'diving' of the fork.
-Check that your rear suspension is set up properly (if you have it), enouhg rebound, not too much platform compared to the fork.

Or just go back to the shop where you got it, tell them what's up and if they don't go through this stuff with you, find a new shop.


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## BOAB (Sep 11, 2008)

I have to agree with the added torque for the longer crank, I noticed a difference when I switched to the 180 stylo's on my MC29. The more I can get my weight out from the center of the crank the more I can take advantage of my mass on climbs.


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## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

sheldon's take on it...
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cranks.html

for that endo feel... take a look at a 29er ...


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## bigjp (Nov 7, 2008)

donalson said:


> sheldon's take on it...
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cranks.html
> 
> for that endo feel... take a look at a 29er ...


Yeah I have read that article and understand what his point was about the gearing, however his analogy of us all using the same sized stairs is total crap! I frequently find when climbing stairs that I feel like I am taking baby stems half the time I wind up go up 2 steps at a time because the distance of a single step just feels kind of awkward. Also I can spin smoother and faster on 180 mm cranks then I can 175's or the 150's on my exercise bike.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

*Middleburn cranks*

Middleburn RS-7 cranks are awesomely light and ultimately configurable at Chain Reaction Cycles' websites. For the price of a full crankset you can get free shipping to the U.S.

The blokes in England make good product and their customer service is polite, like how my Southern Momma raised me:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/%5C

I ordered 180mm RS-7 Duos with 29t and 32t spiders and a 42t hardcoat outer ring, couldn't decide how low to go in gearing

:thumbsup:


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## iamandy (Nov 23, 2005)

Unfortunately, I don't see any Middleburn's over 180. 

What we need is more 185 and 190 options.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

I agree, I'd buy Middleburn RS7s in 185 or 190 if they were sold. I had my first 17 miles on the Duo 180s today. I have some very strong impressions so far:

1. Very noticeable difference between 175 and 180. This was best tested when I conciously kept to Ned Overend's "pedal in circles" technique. With my lank on 175s, you felt the performance boost with this technique but you kind of had to visualize my legs doing so. With 180s you can really feel it! And it feels good.

2. You can get more than 1t of chainring power. 32t only felt bonkable as the bottom of my 2x9 with 180s in precious few parts of my long climbs today. I do like to be able to bail to a granny gear rather than bonk in long grinds on long days or more immediate predicaments, on switchback-to-climbs for instance.

Times... I don't listen to my feelings about a ride if I did it faster, why do I want to listen to your feelings about something?  More people should test their times on favorite trails with their old and new equipment (especially cranks and 29ers) and I'll be doing so as soon as I get the computer connected to my new fork.


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## Ray Lee (Aug 17, 2007)

Great post... and a shame I didn't read these forums earlier 

I had the over the bars issue (cant tell in a test ride, and it was my first FS bike) anyway my shop was useless and I ended up putting the bike on Ebay for a day or 2..... after spending a few days reading here I bought a stiffer fork spring new stem and bars and its fits perfect (less than $75)!

Siv has a Prophet (same as me) and one extra thing to consider is that the head tube is the same on a small as a XL, so even though it may look kinda funny having both a riser bar and a stem with some rise your grips end up being at the height as other bikes with just one or the other.



Tjaard said:


> Don't know that the 5mm drop in seatheight would help with that.
> For Going over the Bars:
> 
> -Raise your bars(find some high rise bars, max out the spacers and use a high rise stem
> ...


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## davelexipct (Aug 25, 2007)

*good chart*

See:

http://www.myra-simon.com/bike/cranks.html

Pretty good discussion that makes loads more sense than the previously cited Sheldon Brown page.


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## paul r nelson (Oct 6, 2008)

How strong are they? I am looking for something rigid with no flex.


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## chomxxo (Oct 15, 2008)

Check out Middleburn RS7 180mms http://chainreactioncycles.com, very strong, very light


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## 29or6to4 (Jun 26, 2007)

*I'm loving my High Siera 190's*

Been riding these for a year now and I cring when it is time to hop on the road bike because they only have 175s. The extra leverage is unreal! I love these so much. The only drawback is the weight, but oh well, I'll just lose a few pounds to make up the difference. :thumbsup:


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## unfriendlyGiant (Apr 15, 2008)

29or6to4 said:


> Been riding these for a year now and I cring when it is time to hop on the road bike because they only have 175s. The extra leverage is unreal! I love these so much. The only drawback is the weight, but oh well, I'll just lose a few pounds to make up the difference. :thumbsup:


Where did you get those?


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## markymark (Oct 30, 2004)

thecrackerasscracker said:


> Im 6' 5" and was wondering if switching for 175 to 180mm would be better for me for all mtn riding


yes, it makes a big difference. Going to 180 cranks from 175 is one of the best things I ever did in bike setup. I'm 6'4" btw. Just get XT's, they are unbreakable.


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## 29or6to4 (Jun 26, 2007)

*High Sierra Custom cranks. Follow the url $350 any size*

http://www.hscycle.com/Pages/customcrankset.html

:thumbsup:


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## 29or6to4 (Jun 26, 2007)

*Here's another shot on the bike*

to give a little perspective, Still not much pedal bashing going on with such long cranks, so don't shy away from the long arms!


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