# MRP Ribbon



## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

I know Noah from MRP patrols the MTBR forums so I'm hoping he or anyone else with some more knowledge on their new fork coming out this year can help. Is the spec that was released to all the online sites (PB, MTBR, Vital) still the plan? Mainly the fork and tires specs, this was from PB press release:

"There are two separate chassis - one for 27.5'' wheels and another for 29'' wheels - and the former can fit a tire up to 2.6'' wide, while the latter can take a 2.6'' wide 29er tire or a 3.0'' wide 27.5 plus-sized wheel and tire combo."

I ask because the frame I'm looking at needs a 160mm fork and the frame can take a 2.8 tire, although the rims I'm going to run will be something similar to the WTB ASYM i29

Thanks for any help


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Howdy,

Glad you're excited about the Ribbon! I can't wait until it arrives.

Yes, those tire specs are correct. I'm about to mount 29x2.6 Schwalbes on my ride with a 29" 160mm Ribbon.


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

This level of CS is why I want this fork and like this company, I've spend 30+ minutes on hold with RockShox for one question. So Noah, your running the 29" ribbon at 160mm, the old press release states that the 29" fork maxes out at 150mm. Did I miss somthing (which is probably the case)?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Good catch. 

Yes, we are now planning to release a 160mm, 27.5+ / 29" Ribbon.


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

Sweet, now if I can find the money to complete the rest of my build. Thanks again Noah for the help and fast repsone, I greatly appreciate it.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

When is this fork going to hit the market?
How does it ride compared to the stage?
And please turn the arch around the right way


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

WHALENARD said:


> And please turn the arch around the right way


Heck no! I love that MRP puts function ahead of appearance. That reverse arch will be nice during our 6 months of rain in the PNW.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

I don't know...aesthetics have to be part of the equation as well. I'm a PNW rider & have never really found mud collecting there to be much of an issue when it comes down to it. With the new crop of small super effective fenders it's really a moot point. If there really was a form over function issue here it would be mud/debris collecting at the tight spot/crevice against the seal where the arch joins the stantion which remains unchanged. Seems like kind of an ugly unpolished solution to a non-problem that will enevitably collect dirt anyway, but instead of being hiddin will now be front and center.

With all that said I wouldn't have bothered to right that out if I weren't completely board right now. I'm sure it's a rad fork and I will own one. As a whole MRP is great company I'm stoked to support and have found my stage along with MRP's customer service to be stellar.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

The reverse arch is an interesting business decision. I have never heard anybody in my riding circle complain about dirt accumulating behind the arch, and I'm in the PNW. I could see more people not purchasing the fork due to appearances than people making the purchase due to this feature. 

If performance and durability are greater than other fork options, I could see myself looking past it though.


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## trailbildr (Dec 8, 2004)

Oh good! MRP let it slip that there will be a 160 29r fork! Now we can start talking about it! HOORAY!

If the Ribbon represents improvements to the Stage fork (which it does) it will probably be the best fork out there. People will see benefits from Ramp Control on their RS and Fox product, read up on the drama dealing with Fox and the poor damper adjustments on the Charger and head straight to MRP!

Keep up the great work MRP!

mk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Thanks all.

Production starts in March. That doesn't mean we're receive a shipping container of forks in March, it means we start producing these babies one by one here in Grand Junction.

Regarding the forward-facing pocketing (I hate the term reverse arch, sounds like it refers to a Manitou), there were practical and aesthetic reasons for that decision. I'm looking at a Ribbon right now and I think it looks boss, but I understand people have different tastes and opinions. Not only does it provide the "anti-mud" benefit, it also gives us a unique look in a sea of all black forks. It also made us spend A LOT of time making that area of the fork look finished AND be weight-efficient as possible, which I believe helped us achieve the awesome overall weight of the fork. I doubt many designers spend much time optimizing the hidden pockets found on a traditional lower leg casting.


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

They're Speed Pockets (TM). Looking forward to putting a Ribbon on a Banshee Prime!


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

*Where's the best place for info/spec??*

Cool...I have completely missed out on this, so many questions, what's axle to crown? can it be lowered from 160mm? Tia


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

J: said:


> Cool...I have completely missed out on this, so many questions, what's axle to crown? can it be lowered from 160mm? Tia


We'll have a product page up once we get closer to launch. For now there are quite a few stories on the fork from the tradeshow season.

MTBR
Pinkbike
BikeRadar
Vital
MTB-news.de

I don't recall axle-to-crown off-hand, but it's in-line with the competition. I wanna say 562mm for 29" 150mm?

Of course you can lower it from 160mm, it's internally adjustable from 120-160mm with spacers (included). We even include 5mm spacers in case you want a 135mm or 155mm fork.


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## zutroy (Jul 2, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> We'll have a product page up once we get closer to launch. For now there are quite a few stories on the fork from the tradeshow season.
> 
> Of course you can lower it from 160mm, it's internally adjustable from 120-160mm with spacers (included). We even include 5mm spacers in case you want a 135mm or 155mm fork.


Noah,

Any chance there will be a 180mm 27.5 fork?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

zutroy said:


> Noah,
> 
> Any chance there will be a 180mm 27.5 fork?


Nope. The 27.5" only goes to 170mm.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> We even include 5mm spacers in case you want a 135mm or 155mm fork.


That'a awesome


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> We'll have a product page up once we get closer to launch. For now there are quite a few stories on the fork from the tradeshow season.
> 
> MTBR
> Pinkbike
> ...


Maybe good old Canfield Bros will let us run this 160mm for on the front of our Riots since it will only be a touch longer then the pike 140. If so, sign me up for a new fork.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Sorry if I was unclear. The axle-to-crown height for the 29" Ribbon is the same as the Pike at the _same_ travel. So a 160mm Ribbon will be 20mm taller than a 140mm Pike.

I will double check with engineering, but the last info I have calls out a 561mm a2c for the 150mm Ribbon. (thus 551mm @ 140mm and 571mm @ 160mm).


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## Deerhill (Dec 21, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> We'll have a product page up once we get closer to launch. For now there are quite a few stories on the fork from the tradeshow season.
> 
> MTBR
> Pinkbike
> ...


Thanks. Sounds well thought out, can't wait...those 5mm increments are a HUGH help in tuning front/rear weight balance. IME, the 10mm that others use in air spring setups end up slightly "off" when dialing in the attack vs seated weight balance and shock tune


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

Noah, I'm considering a stage (I don't need the boost compatibility that the ribbon provides) but have a couple questions relating to the improvements in the ribbon that I've heard might make it to the stage. Basically, improved air spring, pssst valves, & tooled axles. Are any/all of these making their way to the stage?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Groghunter said:


> Noah, I'm considering a stage (I don't need the boost compatibility that the ribbon provides) but have a couple questions relating to the improvements in the ribbon that I've heard might make it to the stage. Basically, improved air spring, pssst valves, & tooled axles. Are any/all of these making their way to the stage?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


Hi Grog,

The Stage has already received the spring and damper updates found in the Ribbon. However, it won't be getting PSST valves or tooled axle options as those would require casting changes.


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

The new stage as the independent negative spring circuit?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

WHALENARD said:


> The new stage as the independent negative spring circuit?


Yessir. Just realized the website is not updated, I'll do that!


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> Hi Grog,
> 
> The Stage has already received the spring and damper updates found in the Ribbon. However, it won't be getting PSST valves or tooled axle options as those would require casting changes.


Guess I'll have to consider going ribbon then... I do have a hope hub, so guess going boost isn't too big a deal... I just don't love mixing boost/non-boost on one bike, just for OCD reasons.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## LaXCarp (Jul 19, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Yessir. Just realized the website is not updated, I'll do that!


I have a 2015 Stage, is it possible to update any of the internals to reflect the latest technology offered by MRP?


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## matsf (Aug 28, 2015)

^This


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

LaXCarp said:


> I have a 2015 Stage, is it possible to update any of the internals to reflect the latest technology offered by MRP?


For sure! Call HQ and talk to Eric to get pricing. 970-241-3518


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Groghunter said:


> I just don't love mixing boost/non-boost on one bike, just for OCD reasons.


I'm using a non-Boost DT front hub with our Better Boost Adapters on my Switchblade that has SuperBoost Plus™ - how does that make your OCD feel? Haha.


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm using a non-Boost DT front hub with our Better Boost Adapters on my Switchblade that has SuperBoost Plus™ - how does that make your OCD feel? Haha.


It's at least boost front & rear, just a more different rear boost! Where it really gets me is companies selling a boost frame with a 15x100mm fork, or vice versa, it's like, "way to screw your customer out of ever buying an off the shelf wheelset."

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

So - if the Ribbon is an update of the Stage - which i've owned on previous bike (and yes - it was better than the Pike it replaced and any previous gen Fox) - i believe this should and will be the upgrade on the new bike - can't wait for the release and more info to flow!

Gotta love made in the USA by a bunch a passionate riders!! Keep up the great work and innovation!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Cheers! Thanks! Wishing I was out riding my Ribbon right now, dang rain!


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## azjonboy (Dec 21, 2006)

Was going to order a Fox 34 Fit 4 for my 27.5+ build. That way i can run 27.5x2.8 or 29 x 3.0 with 120 mm of travel.

Will the MRP boost offer 120 for these tire sizes?


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## riiz (Jul 8, 2010)

azjonboy said:


> Was going to order a Fox 34 Fit 4 for my 27.5+ build. That way i can run 27.5x2.8 or 29 x 3.0 with 120 mm of travel.
> 
> Will the MRP boost offer 120 for these tire sizes?


No. You can use the 29'er version at 120mm of travel and use the 2.8" 27.5 tire in it, but it tops out at 2.6" for 29'er tires.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

azjonboy said:


> Was going to order a Fox 34 Fit 4 for my 27.5+ build. That way i can run 27.5x2.8 or 29 x 3.0 with 120 mm of travel.
> 
> Will the MRP boost offer 120 for these tire sizes?


I don't believe Fox says that a 29x3.0 will fit in their fork and, likewise, we don't either. However, what tire you can squeeze in any fork is up to many factors: true size, rim width, and acceptable/appropriate clearance. I can tell you I have a Schwalbe 29x2.6 NN in my Ribbon 29 and it has a ton of clearance.

Are you going to run a 27.5x2.8 and 29x3.0 in the same bike? Seems like a big wheelsize discrepancy.


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## Qtip2 (Sep 8, 2015)

Any updates on availability, Noah?


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## pinkrobe (Jan 30, 2004)

It's up on the MRP site: Ribbon - MRP

Anyone get a chance to ride it at the Sedona MTB Fest?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Reverse arch doesn't look bad after all.


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

No lie. At first I didn't like it, but it didn't take me long to get to the point where I think it's the best looking fork on the market.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## ROFF (Jul 18, 2015)

Groghunter said:


> No lie. At first I didn't like it, but it didn't take me long to get to the point where I think it's the best looking fork on the market.


How much did you have to drink?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

Lol


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Looks good. Can't wait to see how it rides!


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

I love the Colorado decals but haven't seen them as an option on the website. Anyway to get those? 

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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

TheCanary said:


> Looks good. Can't wait to see how it rides!
> View attachment 1127729


Cool!, keep us posted. You putting that on a wreck? Think I remember you over in that forum.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Going on the Primer at 140 travel to start. Thinking about over-forking the Wrecker, I think they'll compliment each other well. 
CO stickers recommended by MRP. Called them up and ordered direct, thanks MRP!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CDubz said:


> I love the Colorado decals but haven't seen them as an option on the website. Anyway to get those?


Thanks, and sure, they're a standard option. I'll add them to the website.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

MRP should design a fender with a male waffle pattern on a tab that snaps into the arch.


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## hitechredneck (May 9, 2009)

Is there a axle to crown spec sheet on these out there yet? 

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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

OldHouseMan said:


> MRP should design a fender with a male waffle pattern on a tab that snaps into the arch.


Or anything that snaps in. Maybe a piece that snaps in which you could attach nothing, half, or full fender.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*UPDATED*

Axle-to-crown: 562mm for 170mm 27.5", 572mm for 160mm 27.5+29"


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## savo (Oct 15, 2009)

any chance for a Dirt Wizard 29x3.0 to fit in this fork?

any picture of the fork with a wheel in?

thx


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

savo said:


> any chance for a Dirt Wizard 29x3.0 to fit in this fork?
> 
> any picture of the fork with a wheel in?
> 
> thx


Haven't tried a Dirt Wizard. And we didn't design it for 29+.

That said, here is my fork with a Nobby Nic 29x2.6 on a ~30 ID rim. Heaps of room.


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## Ganderson (Nov 27, 2006)

Soo.. from a stiffness/burliness standpoint:

Stage = Pike?
Ribbon = Lyrik?

That would be amazing considering the weight.


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## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

In the Facebook live Q&A it was mentioned that the Shockwiz would not play well with the Ramp Control. I assume this would be the case if you are continually adjusting it for trail conditions? If I found the sweet spot in the Ramp Control for my trails, the Shockwiz would work?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

*First Impressions*









Ribbon replacing the Stage on this bike, ridden mainly Pike(stock and custom) and Fox 34 or 36 before trying the MRP forks. The Stage was new enough that it had the Ribbon internals(Dual air and IFP damper) allowing a glimpse of the future. Having the Stage dialed made the decision easier when I started looking for a boost fork. The Ribbon is bigger, boostier, burlier, more refined ...and... lighter? Sounds good.
Despite the burlier look side by side with the Stage(or Pike), the Ribbon has a very sculpted and refined appearance. Recommended set-up is the same for the Ribbon and Stage so I moved the settings over. I did start with a little lower air pressure, assuming the air chamber is a little larger with the 35mm stanchions , and new seals. Ride has been very supple yet the Ribbon seems to ride a little higher than the Stage. Initial impression is that it's stiffer/tracks better pushing it through rocky, rooty corners. Only about 30 miles so far in a couple of rides but really like it on this bike. Hope to open it up on some bigger trails soon and tweak the settings.

Lots of room for some big rubber, along with plenty of mud clearance if you get caught out.:yikes:









OutCast Arch looks to work as designed. 









Haven't had a big Psst! yet, but I like leaving the zip ties for cable management.

So far liking the MRP approach, style, design and the great customer support!


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## Placek (Jun 9, 2009)

Awesome you share info. 
Currently looking for new 29 160mm boost which is going to replace Pike. 
Can You share some info how it compare when speaking of culture of work and small bump sensitivity?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Howdy. The Shockwiz will not work with MRP forks or forks with Ramp Control cartridges, full stop.

The Ramp Control mechanism is effectively using air as the damping medium. Since the schrader valve leads to the "Ramp Controlled" section of the air spring and the Shockwiz measures changes in air pressure through the valve, it will be unable to decipher any meaningful data in use. 

Basically, Ramp Control gives you different compression ratios at different stroke speeds. At low stroke speeds, the feature is effectively invisible: air compressed at a slow rate goes right into the chamber unfettered. At high shaft speeds (and Ramp Control turned up) air cannot get into the Ramp Controlled section of the airspring quick enough, so you have a similar effect to volume reduced air spring: the effective spring rate ramps heavily.

As an example, say there are 20 of us in a small room with one exit. If we all get up and leave, one by one, theres not bottleneck at the door (a slow-speed compression event). However, if we all get up at the same time and try to rush out, we'll get stuck in the door (a high-speed compression event). This is exactly what happens in the event of a "spike" to oil in in a damper. The speed of the compression event overwhelms the damping circuit and so much oil is trying to pass through that it jams (oil is not compressible). But the beauty of using air as the damping medium is that it can be almost infinitely compressed, so it can never truly spike.

So the pressure in the Ramp Controlled section of the air spring actually may not change dramatically in a high speed hit (especially with a heavy amount of Ramp Control added). A Shockwiz would see this and interpret this a small bump, or maybe no bump at all.

In a nutshell, it don't work.


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

There are other ways to get telemetry without a shockwiz or expensive pro setup: haven't had a chance to try it yet, but Andrextr shows a method in one of his YouTube videos that only requires a go pro & a free piece of software called kinovea.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

TheCanary said:


> Recommended set-up is the same for the Ribbon and Stage so I moved the settings over. I did start with a little lower air pressure, assuming the air chamber is a little larger with the 35mm stanchions !


Awesome! Thanks for sharing your impressions!

That's correct that the Ribbon will take slightly lower pressure than the Stage. We're finding most people like ~40%(in PSI) of bodyweight (in lbs.). This is not yet reflected in the quick setup card, but it is in the Owner's Manual. As well, longer-travel models require less air than shorter-travel models.

I ride both a 160mm Ribbon and a 135mm model (both 29"). I'm 175lbs and am liking 70 psi. pos. / 80 psi. neg. in my 160mm fork. And in my 135mm fork, 81 psi. pos. / 86 psi. neg. I like the higher relative pressure difference in the long-travel fork because I want all the suppleness I can get on a slack enduro bike (but an appropriate amount of Ramp too), whereas I like the slightly tauter initial stroke on my shorter-travel XC rig (and a ton of Ramp, because without it my big-a** would be using all 135mm of travel quickly, since I tend to ride my XC bike like a much bigger bike).


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> Awesome! Thanks for sharing your impressions!
> 
> That's correct that the Ribbon will take slightly lower pressure than the Stage. We're finding most people like ~40%(in PSI) of bodyweight (in lbs.). This is not yet reflected in the quick setup card, but it is in the Owner's Manual. As well, longer-travel models require less air than shorter-travel models.
> 
> I ride both a 160mm Ribbon and a 135mm model (both 29"). I'm 175lbs and am liking 70 psi. pos. / 80 psi. neg. in my 160mm fork. And in my 135mm fork, 81 psi. pos. / 86 psi. neg. I like the higher relative pressure difference in the long-travel fork because I want all the suppleness I can get on a slack enduro bike (but an appropriate amount of Ramp too), whereas I like the slightly tauter initial stroke on my shorter-travel XC rig (and a ton of Ramp, because without it my big-a** would be using all 135mm of travel quickly, since I tend to ride my XC bike like a much bigger bike).


You gotta include clicks of ramp control with this, otherwise it's hard to gauge.

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Groghunter said:


> You gotta include clicks of ramp control with this, otherwise it's hard to gauge.


There are 16 clicks in the range. I'm usually at 6-8 on the enduro bike and 12 or so on the XC whip (counting from full-open). More than that on the XC bike (especially on rougher courses) adds to fatigue on longer rides. I might add more on a particular trail or a shorter segment to deal with specific hits/features I know about. But in something like an endurance race, leaving the last little bit of available travel on the table over and over again wears you down.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Placek said:


> Awesome you share info.
> Currently looking for new 29 160mm boost which is going to replace Pike.
> Can You share some info how it compare when speaking of culture of work and small bump sensitivity?


Currently running the Ribbon at 140 but wouldn't hesitate to run it at 160, very solid fork. Small bump sensitivity is the best I've ridden on a new fork. Lower stiction and breakaway force than the Stage and its great that the negative spring can be set 5-10% above the main air spring pressure.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Awesome! Thanks for sharing your impressions!
> 
> That's correct that the Ribbon will take slightly lower pressure than the Stage. We're finding most people like ~40%(in PSI) of bodyweight (in lbs.). This is not yet reflected in the quick setup card, but it is in the Owner's Manual. As well, longer-travel models require less air than shorter-travel models.
> 
> I ride both a 160mm Ribbon and a 135mm model (both 29"). I'm 175lbs and am liking 70 psi. pos. / 80 psi. neg. in my 160mm fork. And in my 135mm fork, 81 psi. pos. / 86 psi. neg. I like the higher relative pressure difference in the long-travel fork because I want all the suppleness I can get on a slack enduro bike (but an appropriate amount of Ramp too), whereas I like the slightly tauter initial stroke on my shorter-travel XC rig (and a ton of Ramp, because without it my big-a** would be using all 135mm of travel quickly, since I tend to ride my XC bike like a much bigger bike).


The Ribbon has been very impressive so far. I appreciate the insight on fork set-up, very helpful. I'm running closer to %50 (PSI to lbs) but at 140 travel and it's very supple. Don't know if thats better seals, fit and finish, or if it might have a touch larger negative chamber? It feels like the slightly higher pressure may give more mid-support and doesn't hurt small bump since I can run the negative PSI up to %110. I like being able to adjust the Ramp according to the trails as well.
I'm certainly no expert, but I like attempting to understand the whys and wherefores of the fork design to optimize the set-up. Definitely a fork with a big sweet spot where the tradeoffs in settings don't compromise performance. Very easy to use and fun to fiddle with.:thumbsup:


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

If people are sharing settings could we include where the rebound is with these as well. I'd love a few baseline tunes to try when I get mine next week. 

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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

I'll post up some settings up after a few more rides. Fork is still breaking in(pretty amazing OOTB) and doing some bracketing on bigger stuff before I'll consider it dialed.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

TheCanary said:


> I'll post up some settings up after a few more rides. Fork is still breaking in(pretty amazing OOTB) and doing some bracketing on bigger stuff before I'll consider it dialed.


Cool thanks.

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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

besides direct from MRP - any LBS in front range stocking/selling? or online vendors where an active junky rebate kicks in?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> or online vendors where an active junky rebate kicks in?


Jenson USA

MRP Ribbon Boost Susp. 27.5+/29" Fork > Components > Forks & Suspension > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA
MRP Ribbon Boost Suspension 27.5" Fork > Components > Forks & Suspension > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

kamper11 said:


> besides direct from MRP - any LBS in front range stocking/selling? or online vendors where an active junky rebate kicks in?


Soon. We don't have any available just yet, but soon.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Jenson USA
> 
> MRP Ribbon Boost Susp. 27.5+/29" Fork > Components > Forks & Suspension > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA
> MRP Ribbon Boost Suspension 27.5" Fork > Components > Forks & Suspension > Suspension Forks | Jenson USA


Seems that while jenson has them listed, they aren't in stock. They quote a 4-6 week lead time.

That said, it's odd that they aren't listing all of the available travel configurations (for the 29er model anyway), just 120, 130 and 140mm

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

incubus said:


> Seems that while jenson has them listed, they aren't in stock. They quote a 4-6 week lead time.
> 
> That said, it's odd that they aren't listing all of the available travel configurations (for the 29er model anyway), just 120, 130 and 140mm
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Looks like they have (2) 27.5" forks and (1) 27.5+ / 29" in stock. These forks are easily convertible travel-wise. You're only out of luck if you want a 160mm 27.5+ / 29" - because the shorter-travel models can't be up-traveled all the way to 160mm.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Looks like they have (2) 27.5" forks and (1) 27.5+ / 29" in stock. These forks are easily convertible travel-wise. You're only out of luck if you want a 160mm 27.5+ / 29" - because the shorter-travel models can't by up-traveled to 160mm.


My bad, I just spot checked one configuration of each model.

I'm interested in the 29er in 150mm. Any idea the A2C of this configuration?

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

incubus said:


> I'm interested in the 29er in 150mm. Any idea the A2C of this configuration?


562mm. Cheers!


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> because the shorter-travel models can't by up-traveled to 160mm.


Noah - can you clarify this?

Can travel never be increased from original setting? (i.e. a stock 130 could not be increased to 140)

Or is there some overlap between models? I recall some of the older MRP forks had a travel range - like a "short model" that was adjustable anywhere from 100 - 130 and a "long model" that could go say 120-150. Or something like that. 

Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

AOK said:


> Noah - can you clarify this?


This info only pertains to the 27.5+/29" models....

Here are are stock models as of today and their internal travel adjustment range:
27.5+/29 120mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 130mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 140mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 150mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 160mm, 125-160mm

As you can see, the 160mm model is slightly different and the others can't take their travel up to 160mm. The 160mm requires a longer damper tube and uses a higher volume of oil.

However, in the near future we are changing this to the following:
27.5+/29 120mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 130mm, 115-150mm
27.5+/29 140mm, 125-160mm
27.5+/29 150mm, 125-160mm
27.5+/29 160mm, 125-160mm

Models ordered at 140 and 150mm will then feature the longer damper tube and be able to go as long as 160mm. When we make this change we will add some sort of additional digit or letter to the serial numbers or some other indicator to signify whether the fork has a long or short-travel damper.

It should be noted that you can space the forks down further than the described ranges, however you'll need to purchase or procure additional travel spacers (only 35mm worth are included with the forks).


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

So - decided to keep it local VS going online to get a nominal discount. This thread and others for the Stage and other MRP products show the commitment and service MRP have to their brand - but more important the customer. Lots of good stuff out there but if the Ribbon is indeed a beefed up and even better Stage (which i ran for over a year and loved!) than no need to look any further frankly!

Should be awesome on my Colorado Spot Rollik!!


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

And a question for MRP - do you have instructions posted for changing the fork travel?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

got the info i needed friday from the mrp crew - thanks


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> got the info i needed friday from the mrp crew - thanks


Cool. I'm actually shooting a tech video on this tomorrow. It should be edited and up early next week.


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## Ganderson (Nov 27, 2006)

Ganderson said:


> Soo.. from a stiffness/burliness standpoint:
> 
> Stage = Pike?
> Ribbon = Lyrik?
> ...


Would still like to know where this fork sits in the burliness spectrum.. I've got a Knolly Warden with 160mm Pike and with me being over 200lbs it really is crying out for a Lyrik or similar.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

First ride tonight on just installed MRP Ribbon on my Spot Rollik...

Glad I checked the forums as the setup card was barely given me any travel while setting up in garage. at about 160lbs i originally set at 80 positive and 85ish negative. felt way firm

Dropped it to just under 70 positive and 78ish negative. 11 clicks from closed rebound, 6 clicks ramp. I didn't get that really supple off the top feel, and overall pretty firm, yet overall really really solid and stout feeling and frankly nothing bad on the trail - just a bit more firm than i like - will simply need to keep working towards my desired feel for this fork.

I probably used btw 2/3- 3/4 of the travel - closer to 2/3. I backed ramp off to 4 but believe i need to get my pressures set. Not sure i was even close to btw 15-20% sag.

I'll try the tip from Noah previously regarding riders liking the ~40% riding weight for pos (64ish psi for me) and close to 75 neg... If anyone reading this thinks thats off let me know.

Cheers for now -


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Hey Kamper11,

Check out this chart I'm using for setting up forks at demo events. I'm still tweaking it here and there, but it's coming together and pretty solid as-is.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Pretty bang-on with that chart. Running 140mm on the trail 29er. #180 rider. PSI #80+, #88-. Rebound 9-10 out, ramp 7-11 depending on trail, first third of the LSC depending on trail.
Fork is running great. Walks through chunder pedaling, great pushing through Corners, haven't had a hard bottom out yet even as the bigger trails are opening up. Best stock fork I've had so far, can't honestly think what a custom tune would fix at this point.


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## Jaysrubi (Jun 3, 2013)

Any comments on how this
Compares to new 36?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

THANKS - nice to see my calculator nailed it at 64psi based on a previous post - i was a little wary to go there tho - now - everything has been re-adjusted - just need to ride, but around the hood it felt better!! Thanks again!


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Jaysrubi said:


> Any comments on how this
> Compares to new 36?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Definitely closer to the 36 than the 34 for the stiffness and burly factor. Also seems a step up from the Pike, though the Pike was not Boost. Really reminds me of the 36 for tracking through rocky/rooty corners at speed. Haven't been on the 36 for a couple of years and that was 160 travel to 140 currently on the Ribbon. Have been on the Fox 34 with the E16 damper tune and prefer the Ribbon for both spring curve and damper.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Just ordered one for my upcoming Phantom build. Stoked to give it a whirl.


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## Jaysrubi (Jun 3, 2013)

TheCanary said:


> Definitely closer to the 36 than the 34 for the stiffness and burly factor. Also seems a step up from the Pike, though the Pike was not Boost. Really reminds me of the 36 for tracking through rocky/rooty corners at speed. Haven't been on the 36 for a couple of years and that was 160 travel to 140 currently on the Ribbon. Have been on the Fox 34 with the E16 damper tune and prefer the Ribbon for both spring curve and damper.


Thank you

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

2nd ride in - same trail loop. new settings are better than first ride. This fork is stiffer and more capable and controlled than the F34(grip damper) it replaced. It is easy to get the really supple small bump without going to say a 25 - 30% sag (like i had to on F34) also - it rides higher in the travel and feels more controlled as speed, bump frequency and bump size increased... Really composed. As it is - even off the biggest of hits last night - fork felt better overall yet still left at least 2 inches of un-used travel so I suspect I may back ramp off one more click or play w air pressures even a little bit more. 

As a side note - my Spot Rollik came spec'd w 150mm travel so growing this a bit to 160mm should result in silghtly slacker head angle (apprx 66.6) and slightly longer wb. the bike really feels composed on the DH wi no adverse effects to climbing (no additional wheel wander or rider adjustments necessary) and still just as nimble to get up or down the tightest switch backs. Cant wait to gain a few more rides and really get this dialed in!!


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

These settings definitely an overall improvement for me and my riding. Really appreciate the support you guys offer. 

I still feel like i can or should be getting "more" as my last ride, on some fast DH w jumpy features and deep compressions - and I still have 2 full inches of stanchion untouched. I don't feel I need to be bottoming out - but feel i'd like to know I'm using all of it! or is that simply forum conditioning? 

Settings are (depending on shock gauge accuracy) should be within a 1-2 psi of the card you posted. Rebound started at 13 but closed 1 to 12.
Ramp is at 3 from start or least progressive. 

My couple questions are:

How much stanchion should be left at bottom out (i suspect "some")
Would air pressure to pos or neg alter this?
OR - is it Ramp?

Overall - i really like the way the fork feels - better than the highly regarded 2017 Fox 34 it replaces. It is burly/stiff and does nothing strange. Composed and smooth!


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Let all the air out, negative and positive and check the travel. May be getting a fair amount of natural spring progression running at 160. I'd try a little less positive/more sag and more neutral negative (=pos), and maybe zero ramp till you see how the fork is working through the whole range of travel - or whatever Noah says. ;-)
I like how effective the mid stroke is - not just passing through - and I've only seen top out a few times. Usually 10-15mm reserve, so less than you're seeing.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> This fork is stiffer and more capable and controlled .... it rides higher in the travel and feels more controlled as speed, bump frequency and bump size increased... Really composed.


This is pretty much exactly what I thought when I got my Stage a few years ago. Also pretty much sums up why I haven't been interested in another fork since then. Except maybe a Ribbon someday.


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## Apolonios (Mar 3, 2016)

Is there any info out there regarding regarding the process to change the travel on the fork?

I've looked in the MRP website but didn't find anything.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

Apolonios said:


> Is there any info out there regarding regarding the process to change the travel on the fork?
> 
> I've looked in the MRP website but didn't find anything.


Printed instructions are included with all forks.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Apolonios said:


> Is there any info out there regarding regarding the process to change the travel on the fork?
> 
> I've looked in the MRP website but didn't find anything.


Video forthcoming - we shot it last week but now I'm away at Sea Otter. Do you need instructions ASAP or are you just curious? Our service guy will be happy to help you and send you directions. [email protected]

Cheers!


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## Apolonios (Mar 3, 2016)

No I'm just curious. Im considering this fork for a new build and I may need to adjust the travel. 

Wanted to get a feel if I needed a PHD to get it done. Looking forward for the video.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

It's easier than most, but you'll still need to drop the lowers and re-up the bath oil. 10mm socket, internal snap ring pliers...hammer. I think that's it.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Apolonios said:


> No I'm just curious. Im considering this fork for a new build and I may need to adjust the travel.
> 
> Wanted to get a feel if I needed a PHD to get it done. Looking forward for the video.


Cool. I'm confident in saying it's the easiest travel change procedure of any fork on the market. You'll see once we get the video up.


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## karpiel (Aug 27, 2010)

Hi Noah

Please tell me more about the ramp control for the 36, I have an Avalanche cartridge and its VERY progressive in the last part of the travel, how much more linear can i make the spring rate with your system ?

Also, when will UK distributors be getting them ?

cheers

Richie


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## Apolonios (Mar 3, 2016)

Noah/Dirt, Thanks for the info.

I'm looking forward for the video. I saw a two year old video for the Stage and it didn't look too bad.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> Awesome! Thanks for sharing your impressions!
> 
> That's correct that the Ribbon will take slightly lower pressure than the Stage. We're finding most people like ~40%(in PSI) of bodyweight (in lbs.). This is not yet reflected in the quick setup card, but it is in the Owner's Manual. As well, longer-travel models require less air than shorter-travel models.


Hey Noah, do you have a link to the Owner's Manual? I don't see it on the MRP website and all I got with my Ribbon was the quick setup card. Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jmvdigital said:


> Hey Noah, do you have a link to the Owner's Manual? I don't see it on the MRP website and all I got with my Ribbon was the quick setup card. Thanks!


Sorry dude! Just catching up from Sea Otter. Link here.

Pressure chart here.


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## gate (Jan 27, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy. The Shockwiz will not work with MRP forks or forks with Ramp Control cartridges, full stop.
> 
> The Ramp Control mechanism is effectively using air as the damping medium. Since the schrader valve leads to the "Ramp Controlled" section of the air spring and the Shockwiz measures changes in air pressure through the valve, it will be unable to decipher any meaningful data in use.
> 
> ...


Just trying to think outside the box here, but since the ramp control is only one of the many adjustments on this fork, could you remove the Ramp Control Cartridge and use a Pike topcap and pike volume spacers to get the rest of the adjustments set with the Shockwiz and then add the cartridge back in and fish off ramp control tuning with the cartridge?


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry dude! Just catching up from Sea Otter. Link here.
> 
> Pressure chart here.


Thanks Noah! I tried using your pressure chart for setting up my 170mm Ribbon on my Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail. However, at a riding weight of around 170lbs., I'm nowhere near the 68psi recommended on the chart&#8230; I'm around 45psi (verified with two gauges, one digital) in order to get 28-30% sag. Can that be right? I noticed in the manual that you guys don't mention setting up via sag measurement at all. Should we be skipping sag measurement and instead going for the chart (PSI based on body weight)?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

If it helps - i was told over the phone by MRP just Wednesday that sag target is 25-30% for the long travel Ribbon...


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

jmvdigital said:


> Thanks Noah! I tried using your pressure chart for setting up my 170mm Ribbon on my Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail. However, at a riding weight of around 170lbs., I'm nowhere near the 68psi recommended on the chart&#8230; I'm around 45psi (verified with two gauges, one digital) in order to get 28-30% sag. Can that be right? I noticed in the manual that you guys don't mention setting up via sag measurement at all. Should we be skipping sag measurement and instead going for the chart (PSI based on body weight)?


GG suggests setting rear shock sag in the seated position. Fork sag is always measured from a standing attack position.

More likely, make sure you're filling both air chambers.

And most importantly, test multiple settings and ride what feels good!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

karpiel said:


> Hi Noah
> 
> Please tell me more about the ramp control for the 36, I have an Avalanche cartridge and its VERY progressive in the last part of the travel, how much more linear can i make the spring rate with your system ?
> 
> ...


If your damper is tuned with a lot of high-speed compression damping (I assume that's what you're talking about), then the addition of the Ramp Control cartridge into the air-spring won't help. However, if you've drastically reduced the volume of the air-spring with spacers, the RC cartridge will help, but still give you adjustable bottom-out support.

Ison Distribution should have 36 cartridges now! Cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I would say that's pretty soft and, in some cases, hard to achieve (very slack AM bikes).

I'm more inclined to setup for feel vs. sag. For sure there setups that are wayyyyyy to firm and those that are too soft, but the range is pretty wide when it comes to forks. I'd peg it at anywhere from 10-30%


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Noah, could you post the A2C measurement for the 27.5 fork along with the stroke associated with that measurement? I assume that the A2C changes 1:1 with the travel?

Also, what is the max tire width on the 27.5 fork?

Lastly, do with 27.5 forks have different length damper tubes as you described earlier with the current 27.5+/29er model?

TIA


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

Noah... If you get a chance check your messages.. Didnt want to clog up the thread here or derail.. thanks


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

yesterdays ride and proof of Ribbon!

View attachment 1135958


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

incubus said:


> Noah, could you post the A2C measurement for the 27.5 fork along with the stroke associated with that measurement? I assume that the A2C changes 1:1 with the travel?
> 
> Also, what is the max tire width on the 27.5 fork?
> 
> ...


27.5" 170mm : 562mm

A2C changes accordingly with travel.

Max tire on the 27.5" is a 2.6" on 35mm ID rim. Obviously a lot variables in there.

There are not multiple damper tubes for the 27.5" model, they are all the same.

Cheers!


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

So, I've been rocking a Ribbon for about three weeks on a new Phantom. It's set at 140 travel. I'm around 190 or so in gear. My initial setup was about 85psi in the positive chamber and 86 in the negative. 9 clicks rebound, about 2 clicks on low-speed compression and 7 clicks on ramp.

I've really been loving this fork. Until yesterday.

Typically I've been riding easier and mid-tech stuff in Phoenix and Sedona (think the Hawes and Phoenix Mountain Preserves as well as National/Mormon at South Mountain for those familiar). In those situations, I feel like my setup has been spot on.

Yesterday, I rode up the Ranger trail at South Mountain, west on National a few miles and then back. Coming down Ranger is where I had my first setup issues. This is bigger-tech stuff, some exposure, very steep, very fast and roughly one mile of consecutive square edges and drops. The fork gave my hands and forearms a true beating. And, oddly, it only used around 100mm of travel.

I checked the settings afterwards and nothing had changed. Curious what my next steps should be. I'm going back to a zero point. More negative pressure?


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## WHALENARD (Feb 21, 2010)

^ I experience the exact thing Blatant. Given how the ramp control is explained to work I'm half wondering if on medium/big hits air is still getting in the ramp cartridge & thus using more air volume/travel. On big and especially consecutive big hits air is not getting in the ramp cartridge limiting volume/travel. This is merely my thought after a wknd on it & am certainly open to other input. 

Turning the ramp down and off seems to elicit a better feel, but I definitely burn through the travel faster. I think I'm going to try more psi, less on the ramp.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Blatant said:


> I checked the settings afterwards and nothing had changed. Curious what my next steps should be. I'm going back to a zero point. More negative pressure?


Yeah, I would start there. I'm running my long-travel Ribbon at 150 now and using 68/77 psi or thereabouts. I've lost a little weight over the spring. Ramp at about half. I don't have problems using full-travel on just about every ride, but it still feels firm - but supple - off the top. No real reason not to run higher neg. pressure. If it results in too much sag, just raise both pressures (but keep +8-10 psi more in neg.).

I would try two different setups if I were you.

Same pos. pressure as current, +8-10 psi in negative, same ramp.

Slightly more pos. pressure (than currently), +8-10 psi in negative (over new higher pos. pressure), less ramp.

Hope that helps!

PS. Used my 130 Ribbon on my 429sl over the weekend at the Enduro Cup in Moab. Courses were all on rock, very harsh. IIRC, settings were: 82/92 psi, 12 ramp, 12 out on rebound, 0 LSC.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Forgot to mention, with the above setup, I had pretty low sag (roughly 15%). The fork has been feeling so good otherwise, I paid no attention and I typically run the Lyrik on my Nomad at about 20%.

The fork felt great climbing and on single bigger hits (2- to 3-foot drops). However, on multiple consecutive hits at higher speed, it all when to sh!t.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Any outcome? I have this fork
On order and am reading along here


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

Can someone with a Ribbon 27.5 fork measure from centerline of axle to the bottom of the arch and also the inside distance between the lower legs where the tire rides just below the arch at the narrowest part, preferably in inches? I'd like to compare with my current fork and tire set-up before placing an order. I know it says max of 2.6 but I just want to make sure before dropping the $$. Thanks!


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## Scottyman (May 29, 2006)

No updates? Blatant--You said it all went to sh!t. Explain.


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## TheArmand (Jul 6, 2011)

Can anyone throw a 29x3.0 tire in this fork and see if it clears? Noah, I see the clearance you have with the 2.6, but a Fox 34 27.5+ is well established to clear a true 29x3.0 easily (including when fully compressed) , and would love to know if this fork can be a competitor in that regard. Looking to purchase a fork for my 29+ and would love to get an MRP instead of going for a Fox 34!


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

Scottyman said:


> No updates? Blatant--You said it all went to sh!t. Explain.


probably not rocking it anymore, sold it or gave it away. moved on to rock something else for a few weeks.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Scottyman said:


> No updates? Blatant--You said it all went to sh!t. Explain.


Sorry, been out of town riding and haven't ridden that bike since I last posted. I'll probably make some changes that Noah suggested and ride it tomorrow.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

TheArmand said:


> Can anyone throw a 29x3.0 tire in this fork and see if it clears? Noah, I see the clearance you have with the 2.6, but a Fox 34 27.5+ is well established to clear a true 29x3.0 easily (including when fully compressed) , and would love to know if this fork can be a competitor in that regard. Looking to purchase a fork for my 29+ and would love to get an MRP instead of going for a Fox 34!


The Fox 34 27.5+ is a bit of an anomaly. Where many manufacturers label their 29er forks as 29/27.5+, Fox made a dedicated chassis for their plus fork. Both the lowers and the CSU are unique to that model. I owned one and it was an absolute beast in terms of tire clearance. That said, I don't think you'll find a top-tier, dual-use (29/27.5+) fork that matches the 34+ in that regard.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SikeMo (Mar 17, 2013)

Any idea when these are going to be shipped out to Jenson? I've been waiting for almost a month.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

We have a few 27.5" forks ready to go.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

To follow up, I think I'm getting there. For me, the posted pressures are far too high if you are concerned about sag. I'm about 190 in gear, running a 140mm Ribbon.

i started even lower than the stated pressure on positive side, +5 on negative, five clicks back from full fast, two clicks of compression and about 8 on ramp. Felt nice for normal trail riding and single big hits. Felt terrible in high-speed chop.

At that pressure, I was getting less than 15% sag.

This weekend, I reduced positive to about 75, plus 10 on negative and out one on ramp. This gave me more like 20% sag and the fork felt MUCH better overall.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

Ordered a 27.5" Ribbon today. One month out. I run a Maxxis Rekon 2.8 which is actually only 2.65 wide. It is 28 1/8" OD. I have a lot of clearance with my non-boost 27.5" X-Fusion RL fork. I had asked the question before but no one answered, is it going to fit or should I have ordered a 29"/Plus size fork? If it will clear by 1/8" on the arch I'm good with it. Thanks guys.....


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Ordered my Ribbon yesterday from my regular LBS. Another shop in town was trying to get me and others to only buy a fork that will work with Shockwiz. Surprise they sell and rent Shockwiz.
This brings up questions Noah might be able to answer. 
Is the ramp control the only part of the Ribbon that Shockwiz can't deal with?
If so could the ramp control be removed and replaced with a regular cap for tunning?
I understand without ramp control it would scream for Tokens since thats what its programed for. If it calls for say 2 tokens could that be converted to X clicks on ramp control?
The Shockwiz seems like it could be good for us Nubs who can't tune a fork!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

DarthBobo said:


> Is the ramp control the only part of the Ribbon that Shockwiz can't deal with?


Hello Darth,

Technically, yes. But we don't make a standard air cap.

I get the appeal of ShockWiz, but for suspension parts without HSC, LSC, HSR, LSR, and other more sensitive adjustments, it seems a little overkill, no? But, I haven't messed with it, so I don't know how in-depth it's analysis is. It just seems to me that - especially on our suspension - adjustments and tuning is so straightforward, couldn't you just try a couple tweaks here and there to get the fork feeling the way you want?

A Ramp Control-less Ribbon has been discussed, BTW. I'll obviously chime in here if it comes to fruition. There are other potential models in the pipeline too.


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

My Ribbon should be here Friday. I'll be tuning the old fashion way. I was just interested if RC was the only thing stopping it. ShockWiz didn't really figure into my decision. Local riders on the Stage. The way their bikes work and the way they love MRP influenced my decision far more than anything else.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> There are other potential models in the pipeline too.


I would love to see a fork approved for 29+ with good clearance for 29x3" tires. (I realize this would be an investment in new casting so I assume it won't happen, but I can dream.)

I was disappointed that the Ribbon isn't approved for 29+. Since the Stage can fit a 29x3 tire I was really hoping that any boost fork would increase the clearance enough for approved 29+ use.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

AOK said:


> I would love to see a fork approved for 29+ with good clearance for 29x3" tires. (I realize this would be an investment in new casting so I assume it won't happen, but I can dream.)
> 
> I was disappointed that the Ribbon isn't approved for 29+. Since the Stage can fit a 29x3 tire I was really hoping that any boost fork would increase the clearance enough for approved 29+ use.


Sorry to disappoint, but hopefully you can understand the tough spot we're in trying to please everyone. Forks take YEARS of development time and, as you've surely seen, trends in this this industry seem to stick around for months. It's hard to know what will last and what will go.

Tooling for castings is by far the greatest investment cost for us, so a specific casting for 29+ is unlikely. That's not to say we don't recognize that niche as legitimate, but it's hard to make the case that the sales for that model would ever recoup its expense.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

DarthBobo said:


> My Ribbon should be here Friday. I'll be tuning the old fashion way. I was just interested if RC was the only thing stopping it. ShockWiz didn't really figure into my decision. Local riders on the Stage. The way their bikes work and the way they love MRP influenced my decision far more than anything else.


Right on! Contact us if you need any tuning help, will be your personal ShockWizzers.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry to disappoint, but hopefully you can understand the tough spot we're in trying to please everyone. Forks take YEARS of development time and, as you've surely seen, trends in this this industry seem to stick around for months. It's hard to know what will last and what will go.
> 
> Tooling for castings is by far the greatest investment cost for us, so a specific casting for 29+ is unlikely. That's not to say we don't recognize that niche as legitimate, but it's hard to make the case that the sales for that model would ever recoup its expense.


I completely understand. I am an engineer who goes through product development cycles all the time so I am well aware of the cost / development time trade offs. And also that there is not much room for error in a small company.

I was hoping that 29+ clearance would sneak in with the design of the Ribbon. Hopefully the next redesign cycle will be the one.

Just reminding you that there are a few of us out there who would like massive clearance.


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## wreckingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

*180mm rotors only?*

I've become quite accustomed to 200mm rotors on the front. Is the Ribbon without question 180mm only? I see the specs say 180 but I have to think someone has put a 200 on, surely.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Key is MINIMUM 180 (i.e., you can't run anything smaller) without an adapter. If you wanna run 200 you'd need a +20 adapter.


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## dmo (Apr 21, 2006)

If anyone is looking for a a ribbon I have a new one still in the box and never used. I ended up building a different bike so dont need the ribbon.

Its the 29er Ribbon 150mm with orange decalse $875. Buyer pays shipping

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## wreckingrob (Aug 24, 2007)

Blatant said:


> Key is MINIMUM 180 (i.e., you can't run anything smaller) without an adapter. If you wanna run 200 you'd need a +20 adapter.


Ah, ok, that makes more sense. The MRP website makes it a little ambiguous as well not mentioning the minimum.

BRAKE MOUNT:

180mm PM (Disc only)

Thanks @Blatant


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

I got my Ribbon installed today. First Impression is good. Just a little test ride. Hoping to hit some singletrack tomorrow. Now I need to sell the Fox 34 Rhythm I just took off. anyone know what it's worth?


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Set my positive and negative pressures. Went to adjust rebound and it just keeps spinning in either direction?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

DarthBobo said:


> Set my positive and negative pressures. Went to adjust rebound and it just keeps spinning in either direction?


Hi Darth! When something like this comes up, don't hesitate to call us - we can't be on the forums 24/7. Did you get this resolved?


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Nope. I sent an email and My LBS tried to get through. Closed due to Holiday is what i was told an hour or so ago. It was the weekend so I wasn't concerned. I'll be home from work and calling shortly.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

So...can anyone compare the Ribbon to the Stage? 

Absolutely love my Stage, even though it's a 2015 (noisier, no negative air chamber). The reviews of the Ribbon are not exactly selling me on the upgrade, so I guess I'll just continue to enjoy my Stage!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

We're open today until 5pm MST. Ring us up! 970-241-3518


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> So...can anyone compare the Ribbon to the Stage?
> 
> Absolutely love my Stage, even though it's a 2015 (noisier, no negative air chamber). The reviews of the Ribbon are not exactly selling me on the upgrade, so I guess I'll just continue to enjoy my Stage!


What reviews are those? 

There's a lot of Stage DNA in the Ribbon, they aren't exactly worlds apart. But obviously the Ribbon has a new chassis and is significantly lighter - that's the main difference between the MY17 forks.

As for comparing it to your '15 Stage, I think we've made significant upgrades to the air spring and damper - not that that fork was by any means a slouch.

I went to Trestle Bike Park over the weekend and the Ribbon performed absolutely incredibly. There was zero deterioration in feel after a dozen plus laps. The chassis definitely feels burlier than the Stage - not so much in steering or holding a line (which the Stage does just fine), but in the suspension action through the rough and on big, slappy landings.


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Noah. I called and Eric got me sorted out. It's nice to see this level of customer service.
I posted here after business hours on a Friday and had to work Monday morning and could not call until I got home.

I got my first real ride on the Ribbon today. WOW. What an improvement over the fox 34. I had my pressure a little too high and forgot my shock pump. Even with the pressure high the small bump was worlds better. For me this has always been an issue. 
I'm a Clyde. In order to get my sag and end stroke the way I need I normally have squat for small bump.

The fork felt stiff and didn't deflect which had been a constant issue for me on the fox.
So Far I'm impressed. 

Next ride I'll need to take a shock pump


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Just got my ribbon installed and i keep having some issues losing pressure in the negative side and in turn I'm losing travel... i have the psi pretty low at 60/55 and when i inflate the lower end and cycle the fork it loses travel... I'm kinda stumped on what i am doing wrong... I've refilled this thing according the precedure several times and am still losing travel...


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Low side should be slightly more psi than high side. if your 60/55 is high/low that could be your issue.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Nope low side is higher... when i set the lower side pressure to 60 and then cycle the shock... with the pump off obviously... it
Loses travel and then when i recheck the lower pressure its dropped some psi...
And then sucks the fork
Down and i lose travel inturn


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

I was planning to adjust the travel in my ribbon tomorrow. I see it calls for 5wt fork oil. I've got 7wt, rock shox 0w30, and fox 20wt. Any of those gonna work or do I need to internet up some 5wt and put this off until it arrives? If so, any preferred brand of 5wt?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Ok now upon playing with this fork for hours the low speed compression dial just fell off... trying to figure out how to screw it back on but i cant seem to line it
Up correctly.... this is a tad frustrating any suggestion? And im still having pressure issues i set the bottom pressure the same as the top... cycle the fork ...and it looses travel still and pressure


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

Njhardrock said:


> Ok now upon playing with this fork for hours the low speed compression dial just fell off... trying to figure out how to screw it back on but i cant seem to line it
> Up correctly.... this is a tad frustrating any suggestion? And im still having pressure issues i set the bottom pressure the same as the top... cycle the fork ...and it looses travel still and pressure


Call MRP tomorrow


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

deserat said:


> I was planning to adjust the travel in my ribbon tomorrow. I see it calls for 5wt fork oil. I've got 7wt, rock shox 0w30, and fox 20wt. Any of those gonna work or do I need to internet up some 5wt and put this off until it arrives? If so, any preferred brand of 5wt?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd probably go with 7wt. 20wt is too thick.

I assume it's summer where you are?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Njhardrock said:


> Ok now upon playing with this fork for hours the low speed compression dial just fell off... trying to figure out how to screw it back on but i cant seem to line it
> Up correctly.... this is a tad frustrating any suggestion? And im still having pressure issues i set the bottom pressure the same as the top... cycle the fork ...and it looses travel still and pressure


Please give us a call and we'll help you troubleshoot. 970-241-3518, ask for Eric in service.

Cheers


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> I'd probably go with 7wt. 20wt is too thick.
> 
> I assume it's summer where you are?


Thanks. It's still summer for another couple months here in western Wyoming.


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

OK Did another ride today. Nothing gnarly. Just a run we do 3-5 times a week for fitness. There is a downhill on it that's 1KM (Half Mile) of dirt road. Quite washboard. Normally beats the snot out of my hands and forearms leaving my hands numb. Today I rode down the hill and didn't notice until I was done that I didn't feel anything in my hands and forearms. I'm really impressed with this fork so far.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> What reviews are those?
> 
> There's a lot of Stage DNA in the Ribbon, they aren't exactly worlds apart. But obviously the Ribbon has a new chassis and is significantly lighter - that's the main difference between the MY17 forks.
> 
> ...


Exactly! I need more reviews! 

Good to know, though. I will definitely be swapping up to a Ribbon one of these days.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> Exactly! I need more reviews!
> 
> Good to know, though. I will definitely be swapping up to a Ribbon one of these days.


We have forks with Bike Magazine, Pinkbike, three German, and two British outlets. We're sending an additional one to Mountain Flyer next week.

Here's a review from a YouTuber:


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

If you go look at the pink bike article about Mike Levy's RM element, he puts a little blurb in there about the ribbon. Seems to like it so far.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

Picked up my 27.5 Ribbon last night and installed it today. Tomorrow will be my first dirt ride on it. 

I had wondered and asked how much distance there is between the bottom of the arch and the centerline of the axle. No one answered but if anyone else is curious (wanting to install a big tire) the answer is 14.5". I have a Maxxis 2.8 Recon mounted on a 741 Ibis wheel and have 3/8" of clearance between the tire and the arch and 1/4" clearance on both sides of the tire at the tightest part.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

How does one get a Ribbon in Canada?

Is the fork offset in the CSU or in the lowers?


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

Punky I got mine from my LBS. They have a Canadian distributor. That's where he got it.


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## dmo (Apr 21, 2006)

PUNKY said:


> How does one get a Ribbon in Canada?
> 
> Is the fork offset in the CSU or in the lowers?


I have a new one for sale. Not sure how to ship to Ca

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

160mm 29er w/46mm offset?


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## dmo (Apr 21, 2006)

29er, set at 150 from factory but can be adjusted to 160. 46mm offset. 110mm spacer. Never unwrapped, still in package

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## dmo (Apr 21, 2006)

My mistake...51mm offset

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

Does. Not. Want.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PUNKY said:


> How does one get a Ribbon in Canada?
> 
> Is the fork offset in the CSU or in the lowers?


The total fork offset is a combination of that in the crown and lowers.

27.5+/29" crown + 27.5+/29" lowers = 51mm offset
27.5" crown + 27.5+/29"lowers = 46mm offset
27.5" crown + 27.5" lowers = 44mm offset

Our distributor in Canada is NRG, based in Nelson. 46mm offset 150 and 160mm travel 27.5+/29" Ribbons have part numbers (basically, are a standard offering), a 27.5+/29" Ribbon of shorter travel with 46mm offset would be a custom order (which we can do).


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

If I order an 150 mm ribbon will i be able to change it to 160 mm later if needed? Should just need some spacers be removed right? Thanks 

Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

romulin said:


> If I order an 150 mm ribbon will i be able to change it to 160 mm later if needed? Should just need some spacers be removed right? Thanks


27.5+/29" or 27.5"?

27.5+/29" 150mm forks going out the door today have that functionality, but some of our earliest production forks topped out at 150mm max (without a damper change).


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## dmo (Apr 21, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> 27.5+/29" or 27.5"?
> 
> 27.5+/29" 150mm forks going out the door today have that functionality, but some of our earliest production forks topped out at 150mm max (without a damper change).


How do you know which one you have?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> The total fork offset is a combination of that in the crown and lowers.
> 
> 27.5+/29" crown + 27.5+/29" lowers = 51mm offset
> 27.5" crown + 27.5+/29"lowers = 46mm offset
> ...


Thanks Noah. That's the exact info I was after. Including that NRG is stocking them. Nice work on building three forks from two CSUs and lowers.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I mean 27.5. 
Thanks for answer 

Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

What is the "tooled" bolt-on axle option? Besides the obvious, is there a photo of it?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PUNKY said:


> What is the "tooled" bolt-on axle option? Besides the obvious, is there a photo of it?


Don't have a photo handy, but here's the install video:





It's 30 g lighter than the QR, but requires a 6mm hex tool for removal/installation. Pretty slick IMO.


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> Don't have a photo handy, but here's the install video:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When the nut is pulled into the dropout, does it become permanently fixed?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

deserat said:


> When the nut is pulled into the dropout, does it become permanently fixed?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You could get it out again, but it is a tight press fit. It does not rotate when you tighten the axle (ie you only need one tool). Make sense?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dmo said:


> How do you know which one you have?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


You could contact us with the serial number and we could tell you.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Do you guys only recommend a digital shock pump setting the psi on this fork?


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

Njhardrock said:


> Do you guys only recommend a digital shock pump setting the psi on this fork?


Really, every/all forks man. I can tell a 1 psi difference in my Pike with sticky bushings. You can also just get a digital gauge. Topeak & SKS both make one.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> You could get it out again, but it is a tight press fit. It does not rotate when you tighten the axle (ie you only need one tool). Make sense?


Yes, makes sense. Just making sure I understand what is happening in the video. Thanks.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

I've been getting along fine with a regular fox shock pump for years.... i set pressure and add or subtract air base on how feels ... just wondering because if the 10psi difference if a digital is required.....i was having issues filling this fork everytime i would get close it would suck travel down even when filling it at the same psi... so had anyone else had this issue with a standard non digital gauge?


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

I use a SKS SAM pump and Topek Di Gauge


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Njhardrock said:


> Do you guys only recommend a digital shock pump setting the psi on this fork?


I think digital pumps are handy for fine tuning. They just seem to make it easier to try 1-2 psi changes.

We use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Fork-S...1500579757&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+digital+pump

They're the same make and model that's been relabeled by a few brands. We've purchased four and all but one is still working flawlessly after six months of daily use. I left one in direct sunlight, in a vehicle, and probably cooked it.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> I think digital pumps are handy for fine tuning. They just seem to make it easier to try 1-2 psi changes.
> 
> We use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Fork-S...1500579757&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+digital+pump
> 
> They're the same make and model that's been relabeled by a few brands. We've purchased four and all but one is still working flawlessly after six months of daily use. I left one in direct sunlight, in a vehicle, and probably cooked it.


Same one I bought during Prime Day. Works great.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rorhound said:


> Same one I bought during Prime Day. Works great.


Ahh, they had a Prime Day special?! Dang!


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## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

NOAH,

I have a Ribbon on the with way with my new Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail (should be here next week). I am wondering what settings would be a good starting point for my new ribbon. 

170mm travel 
rider weight about 195 lbs 

can't wait to get this on this new bike!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

2zmtnz said:


> I have a Ribbon on the with way with my new Guerrilla Gravity Megatrail (should be here next week). I am wondering what settings would be a good starting point for my new ribbon.


Howdy,

Start with 75 positive, 85 negative. Rebound 10 clicks from closed. Ramp Control in the middle - 8 from open or closed. Compression fully open.

Adjust from there! Report back. Shred on!


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

slurp slurp

This message is for guys ridding the ribbon .. 

Got my Ribbon all set on the bike.. First ride-- noticed that on pretty much any hit-- im getting a slurping noise from the fork... Are any of you guys that have the fork getting the same thing?? Ive heard something a bit similar on other order forks-- oil slurping as its going through valves etc.. But havnt heard it on the last few forks ive had (pike/dvo)..


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

SB Trails… you mean on the rebound stroke? That seems to be pretty common with MRP forks and rebound. My 2016 Stage does it, and both of my Ribbons have a rebound "slurp"… louder on bigger hits.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm just waiting for MRP to come up with a Customer Loyalty Program so I can upgrade my Stage


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

SB Trails said:


> slurp slurp
> 
> This message is for guys ridding the ribbon ..
> 
> Got my Ribbon all set on the bike.. First ride-- noticed that on pretty much any hit-- im getting a slurping noise from the fork... Are any of you guys that have the fork getting the same thing?? Ive heard something a bit similar on other order forks-- oil slurping as its going through valves etc.. But havnt heard it on the last few forks ive had (pike/dvo)..


Watching the EWS last weekend, I could pick out all the MRP forks by listening for the slurp. They all had it.


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

Talked to eric at mrp and he said the same thing you guys did.. Said the mrp pushes a lot more oil and that is what causes the slurp...So--- cool ... Learn something new everyday..


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## cortolillo87 (Dec 7, 2013)

Just came here to say I love the Ribbon. 
Had it installed on my Slayer. 
It's night and day difference coming off a Lyrik RCT3. 

Now when do you think you'll be making a metric shock to go with it??


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

cortolillo87 said:


> Just came here to say I love the Ribbon.
> Had it installed on my Slayer.
> It's night and day difference coming off a Lyrik RCT3.
> 
> Now when do you think you'll be making a metric shock to go with it??


Awesome! Thanks

Metric shock? Nothing springs to mind...


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## cortolillo87 (Dec 7, 2013)

What kind of tease is this.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

I've had my Ribbon for about 3 weeks and 7 rides. I think I'm pretty close on my set-up finally. Here's my specs and settings incase someone needs/wants a starting spot.

215lb with gear Intermediate rider
So CA (Temecula area) trails, not XC
160mm travel
2016 Transition Carbon Patrol
2018 Fox DHX2 (coil) shock
2.8 Maxxis Rekons front and rear

With the following settings I'm about 6-8mm from bottoming but have not hit any huge drops yet, just the normal rock gardens and jump line trails. Sedona in October will provide bigger drops. Small bump compliance is excellent. 

60psi positive side
70psi negative side
Compression all the way open
Ramp at 13 out
Rebound at 10 clicks from tight
I have no idea what my sag is now as I haven't checked lately. That went out the window after the first ride.


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

Anyone tried to do a maintenance rebuild on their ribbon yet? Thinking of selling my pike and getting one. I'd be out approx $100-115 to upgrade not sure if it's worth it becaus I'd also have to have my front wheel re-dished


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

buddiesconfusion said:


> I'd also have to have my front wheel re-dished


Why? You're not Boost now?


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## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

Noah,

Thanks for the set up help for my Megatrail it is absolutely spot on! The fork is all around amazing and I am already looking at upgrading my gf's bike to a ribbon in the future.

side note i just saw this:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/mrp-coil-sprung-ribbon-fork-crankworx-whistler-2017.html
is that not something that can be talked about yet? if you can say anything, would it be possible to upgrade the air ribbon to a coil ribbon?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Switching to BOOST is kind of a bummer for me (I have nice CK hubs and they don't make adapters). For a 27.5" wheel i don't feel that 10mm is going to make a noticeable difference either. It seems like it couldn't be that hard to make some kind of threaded lowers that accept different inserts for 100x15, 110x15, 110x20, future standards, etc. MRP already makes the rotor spacers that would be the last piece necessary.

Anyways, I picked up a Ribbon and will just be using spacers for now, but for the future I think a feature like that would really be a selling point and you'd end up with a pretty "universal" fork instead of cutting out the people that aren't ready for a different standard.


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

buddiesconfusion said:


> Anyone tried to do a maintenance rebuild on their ribbon yet? Thinking of selling my pike and getting one. I'd be out approx $100-115 to upgrade not sure if it's worth it becaus I'd also have to have my front wheel re-dished


I haven't done a maintenance rebuild yet but I've had apart a few times adjusting the travel. Pretty straightforward as far as disassembly and reassembly. They have good videos on how to go about it.

The one thing I will say about reassembling the upper and lowers is that the stanchions kept getting caught up on the foam rings that are just below the wipers. Pretty sure I rolled one this last time as I've got noticeable stiction now. Going to have to pull them apart again and see this afternoon.


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

I understand we're supposed to add air to the positive chamber and then to the negative. Once that is done, can I add or remove air from the positive and leave the negative alone or does the negative need to be emptied if I want to increase pressure in the positive? Not sure if that question makes sense?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

deserat said:


> The one thing I will say about reassembling the upper and lowers is that the stanchions kept getting caught up on the foam rings that are just below the wipers. Pretty sure I rolled one this last time as I've got noticeable stiction now. Going to have to pull them apart again and see this afternoon.


I've had that problem on other forks, and I typically will just install the wipers and seals on the fork legs, then install the lowers, then press the seals into the lowers. On some forks you need a plastic punch to drive the seals down into the lowers, but it works pretty well overall.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

deserat said:


> I understand we're supposed to add air to the positive chamber and then to the negative. Once that is done, can I add or remove air from the positive and leave the negative alone or does the negative need to be emptied if I want to increase pressure in the positive? Not sure if that question makes sense?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got ya. For the best consistency and performance, we recommend doing the full procedure every time you need to change pressure. If you've got +10 in the negative and then attach to the positive (without dumping the negative), you could shrink the fork just from the air you've lost into the pump. The negative chamber is small and takes little time to dump and refill.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

2zmtnz said:


> side note i just saw this:
> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/mrp-coil-sprung-ribbon-fork-crankworx-whistler-2017.html
> is that not something that can be talked about yet? if you can say anything, would it be possible to upgrade the air ribbon to a coil ribbon?


I gotta stay pretty tight-lipped about this for another week. Hope you understand!


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## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> I gotta stay pretty tight-lipped about this for another week. Hope you understand!


no worries I completely understand.


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> I got ya. For the best consistency and performance, we recommend doing the full procedure every time you need to change pressure. If you've got +10 in the negative and then attach to the positive (without dumping the negative), you could shrink the fork just from the air you've lost into the pump. The negative chamber is small and takes little time to dump and refill.


Ok, good to know. I'm still fine tuning positive and negative to get it where I want it. But I'm close.

My next question is concerning negative pressure and what is lost to the shock pump. I've got a digital lezyne pump that is pretty good. But it will still loose a bit of air when I unscrew it from the pump. Then I'll screw it back on to get an idea of how much is lost and what I should be filling it to in order to account for the small amount of air lost. When reattached the pump will typically read significantly lower than what I set it at. Any idea how much I'm loosing into the hose and pump when reattaching the pump?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

deserat said:


> Ok, good to know. I'm still fine tuning positive and negative to get it where I want it. But I'm close.
> 
> My next question is concerning negative pressure and what is lost to the shock pump. I've got a digital lezyne pump that is pretty good. But it will still loose a bit of air when I unscrew it from the pump. Then I'll screw it back on to get an idea of how much is lost and what I should be filling it to in order to account for the small amount of air lost. When reattached the pump will typically read significantly lower than what I set it at. Any idea how much I'm loosing into the hose and pump when reattaching the pump?


The air is actually lost when you screw the pump back *on*. Some of the air from the chamber has to fill the hose on the pump, so you end up with a lower pressure reading.

The air that you hear escaping when you disconnect the pump is coming from the hose.

If you want to test this, you can 'pre-charge' the pump like so (demonstrated on a lesser-quality suspension name brand):


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

Porch said:


> The air is actually lost when you screw the pump back *on*. Some of the air from the chamber has to fill the hose on the pump, so you end up with a lower pressure reading.
> 
> The air that you hear escaping when you disconnect the pump is coming from the hose.
> 
> If you want to test this, you can 'pre-charge' the pump like so (demonstrated on a lesser-quality suspension name brand):


I can understand loosing air when reattaching the pump. But I thought people always complain about loosing air when detaching the pump? Is this a myth?

Maybe it's simpler than I thought. 
So would it be safe to say that if I set my negative pressure at 65, remove the pump, then reattach the pump and it then reads 55, that 10 lbs was lost to the pump? If this is consistently the case, and one day I can't remember what I'm running in the negative, I could attach the pump, get a reading, and estimate I was running about 10 lbs over that?

I watched the video too. Good info but I don't understand the usefulness if you either don't know the pressure in your shock or fork (don't know what to precharge it to) or you know where you want the pressure to be and are just making it so.

I know I'm going to get a smart answer for this. Forgive me. I'm a child sometimes. And it's kinda off topic.


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## OrenPerets (May 1, 2006)

deserat said:


> Is this a myth?
> So would it be safe to say that if I set my negative pressure at 65, remove the pump, then reattach the pump and it then reads 55, that 10 lbs was lost to the pump? .


Yes.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

deserat said:


> I can understand loosing air when reattaching the pump. But I thought people always complain about loosing air when detaching the pump? Is this a myth?
> 
> Maybe it's simpler than I thought.
> So would it be safe to say that if I set my negative pressure at 65, remove the pump, then reattach the pump and it then reads 55, that 10 lbs was lost to the pump? If this is consistently the case, and one day I can't remember what I'm running in the negative, I could attach the pump, get a reading, and estimate I was running about 10 lbs over that?
> ...


I used to have a RS Monarch shock that I swear would lose air when I detached the pump. I think it depends on the location of the valve inside of the shrader connection--if it sits too far up, your pump might lose the seal on the fitting before the valve has fully closed.

Other than that one shock I haven't had any issues, but they do make a pump to "solve" that problem - check out the Cane Creek "Zero-Loss" air pump: https://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/lounge/rider-deals/dbair-zero-loss-pump

I don't think you can assume any particular PSI loss--it totally depends on the size of the chamber. My DVO Topaz loses about 30psi when I connect to the piggy-back (tiny), while connecting to my Ribbon might only lose 5psi (big chamber).

I have multiple bikes and can never remember what pressure I run in any of them, so i use a silver metallic sharpie to write my pressure on my shocks. Comes off easily with some alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Metallic-Permanent-Markers-Silver/dp/B00009RAX4


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

Porch said:


> I used to have a RS Monarch shock that I swear would lose air when I detached the pump. I think it depends on the location of the valve inside of the shrader connection--if it sits too far up, your pump might lose the seal on the fitting before the valve has fully closed.
> 
> Other than that one shock I haven't had any issues, but they do make a pump to "solve" that problem - check out the Cane Creek "Zero-Loss" air pump: https://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/lounge/rider-deals/dbair-zero-loss-pump
> 
> ...


----------



## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

I don't think that pump exists any more. I'm currently using one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Shock-Fork-Pump/dp/B00AL5UQ1W

It allows you to screw on the connector to the schrader valve first, then screw down the part that presses in the valve.

The problem(ish) is that it will only ensure zero loss when disconnecting. I still have to preload the pump when reconnecting to get an accurate reading. Not really a big deal, just something to note.

FWIW I don't think you really have to be exactly on target when preloading the pump. The amount of volume in the hose of your shock pump is tiny vs anything else you're actually trying to pump up. The resulting difference if you over pump 5-10psi preloading the pump will probably only equate to 1psi added to the chamber on the fork/shock at best.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, I would start there. I'm running my long-travel Ribbon at 150 now and using 68/77 psi or thereabouts. I've lost a little weight over the spring. Ramp at about half. I don't have problems using full-travel on just about every ride, but it still feels firm - but supple - off the top. No real reason not to run higher neg. pressure. If it results in too much sag, just raise both pressures (but keep +8-10 psi more in neg.).
> 
> I would try two different setups if I were you.
> 
> ...


Noah, what would you say the designed working range is for the Ribbon in terms of rider weight? I see you're running your Ribbon with 0 LSC (at what body weight?). I had a Stage, and while it was generally a great fork, I felt the minimum LSC was still a little too much for my 150lbs. Is there a way to adjust the LSC internally in the Ribbon to make it even lower for lighter riders? I'm considering buying a 160mm 29er Ribbon but this is the main thing that's holding me back.

Thanks


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Rando question: 

What would be the effect of using too much negative air pressure on purpose to "suck down" the travel on the 160mm Ribbon by 20-30mm over normal? I'm thinking of trying this as a fork travel reduction feature for those times where I want to use my long travel bike as more of a tight trails bike with a steeper head angle. What would be the main downside of doing this? 

My guess is that it would effectively reduce the volume of the positive chamber vs the negative chamber, which would make the air spring curve more linear (maybe too much) in the sucked down position? But perhaps you can compensate for that by increasing Ramp Control in the positive chamber at the same time? I wanna know what other people think about this (or have tried).


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Been riding my Ribbon for a few weeks. Really a great fork! 

It definitely likes to ride high in its travel. I have mine (27.5 version) set at 170mm with 65psi + / 75psi -. Usually 6-8 clicks of ramp control. So far I have not managed to use more than 70% of my travel and i'm pretty consistently in the 30-40% range. That's a lot higher than I'm used to and I probably need to drop pressure even further. On the other hand, the fork is definitely not harsh, but it isn't plush either. The word I'm probably looking for is "composed".

I weigh 185lbs with gear so I'm no lightweight. 

So far i'd say i'm very happy with the fork on the downhills, and would like it a little more plush for the XC stuff. I'll keep fiddling with it.


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## trailbildr (Dec 8, 2004)

New Coil Ribbon coming in October... Press release went out today.

mk


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## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

Noah, 

now that the ribbon coil is announced I'm curious if I can retrofit my current ribbon with the coil or will I have to purchase a whole new fork?

love the fork and really want to get a coil on the front of my Megatrail to match the push on the rear end.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Are there any different offsets coming out for the Ribbon. Possibly interested in a new Transition.


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## incubus (Jan 20, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> Are there any different offsets coming out for the Ribbon. Possibly interested in a new Transition.


The 29er is already available in two offsets (46 and 51mm I believe). The shorter unit uses a CSU from the 27.5 fork. Does transition call for something even shorter for their SBG thingy?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mtnallen (Aug 29, 2017)

Hey, Sarah from MRP here. Just jumping on this real quick as Noah is repping for us at Eurobike. We will have conversion kits available for current Ribbons so you won't have to purchase a new fork. Just a note though, the conversion will mean you cannot return to the air spring. Glad to hear you love the fork!


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## mtnallen (Aug 29, 2017)

Travis Bickle said:


> Are there any different offsets coming out for the Ribbon. Possibly interested in a new Transition.


Not at this time. However we are looking into this regarding the new Transitions.


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## 2zmtnz (Apr 20, 2017)

mtnallen said:


> Hey, Sarah from MRP here. Just jumping on this real quick as Noah is repping for us at Eurobike. We will have conversion kits available for current Ribbons so you won't have to purchase a new fork. Just a note though, the conversion will mean you cannot return to the air spring. Glad to hear you love the fork!


Sarah,

thanks for keeping us here in the loop. the not being able to change back to air is a little downer but hey that hows it works some times.

I am excited to hear some more reviews and maybe find where i can get a demo ride at some point.

keep up the great work there over at MRP.
cheers!


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

With any fork, switching from air to coil is ok, but not vise versa. The coil can scratch the inside of the stanchion which will cause the seals to leak air.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

No coincidence that coil and cool share 3 letters.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

My review:

I've had my Ribbon now for a month, done about 15 rides on it. Overall it's a great fork. I'm big at 220lbs loaded up, and flex is my biggest issue with most forks. The Ribbon is on par or better than the Pikes I've been riding on my past 4 bikes. 

Steering Precision A+

There was some harshness on big hits and small bumps when I first got the fork. Remember, I'm comparing to Pikes, I've had 4 Pikes in the past 4 years (new bike every year). Pikes are plussshh. Coming down the rock garden at Hall Ranch in Lyons, I found the drops where hurting my hands. A solid pop to the bars with each drop.

I started off with 85psi/95psi in the pos/neg chambers and 5 clicks of ramp. To work with the big hits plushness I started dropping the pressure. First to 75psi/85psi. Helped a bit. Then to less ramp, just 2 clicks. A bit better. Then to 67psi/80psi with zero ramp. Ahhh that's better.

Big hit plushness and control A+

Now the small chatter. I spend a lot of rides in the high country above Nederland. The trails are steep, very loose, and very rocky. Consider them about as technical trails as you can find, but the majority of drops are smaller, it's just that they are non stop bumps. So small/mid hit plushness is a high priority. Hence my like for Pikes. 

I can't go lower than 67 psi, I tried 60 and at my size of 220lbs, it's just a bit too soft even with upping the ramp control. 

Small - mid hit plushness C+

I'm wondering if there is something I can do to help with the small bumps. Change oil weight maybe? 

Overall like the fork, and if I can get this small hit piece working I'll stay off Pike's forever.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

^^^coil^^^


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## Groghunter (May 22, 2006)

ScottieM8 said:


> With any fork, switching from air to coil is ok, but not vise versa. The coil can scratch the inside of the stanchion which will cause the seals to leak air.


Marzocchi actually uses a separate tube for the air seal, instead of the stanchion. You can switch between coil/air at will ( & they've kept making coil forks when everybody else dropped them.)

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Good ole Marzocchi. Had a few of them back in the days. Forgot about them like others have and that's a shame. 

Now back to the Ribbon. The coil version is going to be my next fork. Have the Stage and loving it. I would imagine the coil Ribbon is going to rock.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> My review:
> 
> I've had my Ribbon now for a month, done about 15 rides on it. Overall it's a great fork. I'm big at 220lbs loaded up, and flex is my biggest issue with most forks. The Ribbon is on par or better than the Pikes I've been riding on my past 4 bikes.
> 
> ...


I'm having the same issues long chunky descents my hands are worked. I've turned compression down to zero, thought maybe my rebound was too fast so slowed it down as well. Looks like I'll try dropping air pressure next. Im riding lower in the fork now with less compressio and rebound which i dont love. Anyone else have thoughts?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I notice a ton of stiction on mine, especially just moving it slowly through its travel. It feels good on the big stuff, but on xc stuff it just seems to stick in place. Does anyone else notice the stiction while slowly cycling the fork? My 2016 Stage is a little sticky, but not like this (although it has some more miles... But my ribbon has enough miles on it that it should be broken in).

I second the above review, I just can't get this fork to be plush on xc stuff... but I'm very happy so far on the big stuff.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> My review:
> 
> I've had my Ribbon now for a month, done about 15 rides on it. Overall it's a great fork. I'm big at 220lbs loaded up, and flex is my biggest issue with most forks. The Ribbon is on par or better than the Pikes I've been riding on my past 4 bikes.
> 
> ...


havent ridden it yet but yes feels a little sticky when pushed.

maybe seals? ithink thats where most of the stiction usually comes from


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

CDubz said:


> I'm having the same issues long chunky descents my hands are worked. I've turned compression down to zero, thought maybe my rebound was too fast so slowed it down as well. Looks like I'll try dropping air pressure next. Im riding lower in the fork now with less compressio and rebound which i dont love. Anyone else have thoughts?


I'm having the same issue. I talked to Eric Prinster at MRP (Tech Service guy) and his only suggestion was to make sure I let the air out of the "psst valves" on the lower legs. I have done this several times, and never hear/feel any air moving when I do.

I have ended up running a MUCH MUCH lower pressure than what MRP recommends for my fork and weight. I have 3 Ribbons, and all feel similar. Some stiction off the top, generally feels good, but I get worked in the chunk even though it's using travel. My sag is at least 30% if not higher now. I've been staying at 7-8 clicks of Ramp, not wanting to change too many variables at once. But if I leave the low pressure AND back off the ramp, I'm apt to blow through the travel.

I have heard first-hand that pre-production Ribbon internals that were tested in Stage bodies last year were much better, and that some of the valving was adjusted in the production Ribbon that brought on this harshness.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

jmvdigital said:


> I'm having the same issue. I talked to Eric Prinster at MRP (Tech Service guy) and his only suggestion was to make sure I let the air out of the "psst valves" on the lower legs. I have done this several times, and never hear/feel any air moving when I do.
> 
> I have ended up running a MUCH MUCH lower pressure than what MRP recommends for my fork and weight. I have 3 Ribbons, and all feel similar. Some stiction off the top, generally feels good, but I get worked in the chunk even though it's using travel. My sag is at least 30% if not higher now. I've been staying at 7-8 clicks of Ramp, not wanting to change too many variables at once. But if I leave the low pressure AND back off the ramp, I'm apt to blow through the travel.
> 
> I have heard first-hand that pre-production Ribbon internals that were tested in Stage bodies last year were much better, and that some of the valving was adjusted in the production Ribbon that brought on this harshness.


Interesting. I've tried bleeding air from psst as well never feeling any. What compression and rebound settings are you using? Look like I'll try dropping air pressure and maybe add a few clicks of ramp control to help from bottoming out with everything so low. I'm also using full travel and bug hits feel great, but high speed long rocky trails are killing. Was looking at running the monarch crest race which has some really long timed sections just like where this is giving me issues and I'm hoping to get it figured out ahead of time. With their coil option available it had me wondering if it would help.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

jmvdigital said:


> I'm having the same issue. I talked to Eric Prinster at MRP (Tech Service guy) and his only suggestion was to make sure I let the air out of the "psst valves" on the lower legs. I have done this several times, and never hear/feel any air moving when I do.
> 
> I have ended up running a MUCH MUCH lower pressure than what MRP recommends for my fork and weight. I have 3 Ribbons, and all feel similar. Some stiction off the top, generally feels good, but I get worked in the chunk even though it's using travel. My sag is at least 30% if not higher now. I've been staying at 7-8 clicks of Ramp, not wanting to change too many variables at once. But if I leave the low pressure AND back off the ramp, I'm apt to blow through the travel.
> 
> I have heard first-hand that pre-production Ribbon internals that were tested in Stage bodies last year were much better, and that some of the valving was adjusted in the production Ribbon that brought on this harshness.


Well that sucks to hear. Wish I had waited for more reviews, as always. At least there's the coil option, but I didn't want a coil...

Could the harshness on the chunky stuff be caused by the low pressures (sitting too far into the progression)? I have had that problem before. Adding more air will fix that problem but it would still mean harshness on the small bump.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

I am having all the same issues as stated above... i took a fox 36 off this same bike and honestly wishing I didn't... the suppleness I expected Is not there ... fork kinda sticks on that first bit of travel...I actually sent my fork back to them and they said everything was ok... soo it's not a issue of how it functions... i dunno somthing just does not seem right .. 

Pull on your lowers and see if you can pull a couple mm out... seems odd to me ... never had a fork with what it seems like it doesn't want to extend fully out and intern i feel that's why it's harsh ... just my opinion.... and people suggesting go coil... isn't the reason we bought this fork was to not want to buy something else?


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

I hate to pile on this bandwagon as I'm generally a fan of MRP, but I felt exactly the same way about my Stage. It was great at everything else except the small bump performance. I felt even the lowest LSC setting was too stiff for my 150lbs and could never get it to be as buttery smooth off the top as my pike. I was going to try a lower viscosity oil but ended up selling it before I had a chance to do that. 

Now I'm interested in the Ribbon for its ability to do 160mm as a 29er and stay well under 2000g, but will hold off until I hear more about this issue. Might just go to coil which would probably solve it, but then you gain 200g.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

FYI, called on the coil upgrade and it won't be available until October at the earliest, and they won't have a price until then either.

Certainly not trying to hate on mrp here, they have always been awesome to me and I will definitely continue to buy their stuff. But I am a little surprised at the performance of the ribbon after using older stages on both my bikes.


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Me, too. I sold mine awhile back as I just couldn't get it to perform to my needs, particularly on the sort of high-speed chunk we have in Phx. Destroyed hands and wrists every time. Back to a Pike on my smaller rig and a Lyrik on the bigger.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

Pssst....Pike seals fit without issue and also allow for thicker bath oil to be used (Sram 0w-30 or Fox Gold).

I also suspect the IFP damper has a bit more stiction compared to the original bladder damper on the 2015 and 2016 Stage forks.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> Pssst....Pike seals fit without issue and also allow for thicker bath oil to be used (Sram 0w-30 or Fox Gold).
> 
> I also suspect the IFP damper has a bit more stiction compared to the original bladder damper on the 2015 and 2016 Stage forks.


How much does that help, and any seepage?

Didn't realize these were IFP forks. Bummer.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Not for nothing here guys but shouldn't we be getting some kind of support? I kinda got the
" whats wrong?" Treatment... when I spend 1k on somthing i kinda expect a better solution then i must be doing somthing wrong... we should group together and demand a solution... isn't this why we purchased this product? Made in America better engineering? To me it's just marketing at this point and it's not any better infact worse then a mass produced fork... defeats the purpose i waited a long time for this fork to be dissatisfied...


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## deserat (Feb 28, 2016)

Dang, hate to add to the discontent but i have a noticeable amount of stiction as well. I changed my travel almost right away and used a 7.5 wt oil because I didn't have any 5 wt. and I though maybe I munched up a foam ring when putting the uppers and lowers back together. Took it all apart again, foam rings were fine, used 5 wt oil, and still have noticeable stiction off the top. I've almost gone over the bars a couple times on low speed tech because the fork doesn't want to initiate travel. I dropped pressure in both chambers and still playing with it, but kinda bummed about this.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

Yea I'm bummed. Put this on a dream bike with as many local parts as possible. I can't get this tuned right. Coil isn't an ideal solution but I can't see me riding this as is without some sort of modificatuon. 200g grams is a bit but we'll worth it if I can get the right performance out of it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

DirtMerchantBicycles said:


> Pssst....Pike seals fit without issue and also allow for thicker bath oil to be used (Sram 0w-30 or Fox Gold).


Well I know Pike seals are awesome. Have you tried them? Any noticeable change?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Well I know Pike seals are awesome. Have you tried them? Any noticeable change?


I talked to someone (not sure who) at MRP about the Pike seals and they were pretty opposed. Their main point was that 35mm != 35mm across the different manufacturers, so for example the Ribbon might have 34.8mm stanchions while the Pike has 35.4 or something like that (totally made those numbers up, but I don't have a Pike here to mic). He also said that running the thicker oil will cause seepage.

I'm still somewhat interested. I'm just not sure if the stiction is coming from the wipers or the damper or the air spring or what. If I knew for sure it was coming from the wipers then i'd probably just swap them out and give it a shot.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> I 35mm != 35mm across the different manufacturers


That should just take a second for someone to verify. I don't have calipers here at home. Anyone have a Pike and Ribbon in front of them and a pair of calipers?

If the stanchions are the same, then the other issue is how they seat in the lowers.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

I think this whole changing whipers and oil is kinda bandaging the problem.... we need some kind of acknowledgement from mrp that there is a issue and are willing to adress it...

I think we should create a new thread titled (mrp ribbon issues) and keep the discussion in a new thread that we can keep bumped up high on this forum... no foul language or bad mouthing just facts to hopefully try and get some attention to this issue it seems many are having... I believe this would put the heat on mrp and hopefully find a solution because we all bought this product because we like what the company was all about... now lets see if they can show us what there all about

Anybody apposed? I'm not trying start problems just trying to enjoy the bike i spent lots of money on...


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> That should just take a second for someone to verify. I don't have calipers here at home. Anyone have a Pike and Ribbon in front of them and a pair of calipers?
> 
> If the stanchions are the same, then the other issue is how they seat in the lowers.


Borrowed a friend's Pike. Using a pair of good calipers, I came up with 35.00 for the ribbon and 35.04 for the Pike. Probably some good margin of error in there, but what the hell I'll be the guinea pig... Picked up a set of Push wipers and seals at the bike shop today.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Njhardrock said:


> I think this whole changing whipers and oil is kinda bandaging the problem.... we need some kind of acknowledgement from mrp that there is a issue and are willing to adress it...
> 
> I think we should create a new thread titled (mrp ribbon issues)
> 
> Anybody apposed? I'm not trying start problems just trying to enjoy the bike i spent lots of money on...


I think it's fine to keep the awesome and the "needs tuning" in one thread. MRP doesn't have many threads to track as it is.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> Borrowed a friend's Pike. Using a pair of good calipers, I came up with 35.00 for the ribbon and 35.04 for the Pike. Probably some good margin of error in there, but what the hell I'll be the guinea pig... Picked up a set of Push wipers and seals at the bike shop today.


Thanks for guinea pig"ing", looking forward to the results. The caliper results are about what I expected. I bet if you measured 2 MRP's, or 2 Pikes you would see the same difference.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Okay, I installed some Push-branded wipers and seals meant for a Rockshox 35mm fork and used Fox Gold oil in the lowers. I did a quick ride on my neighborhood trails and took it down a few flights of stairs to test it out.

Me: 180lbs, riding a Canfield Balance with a Ribbon @ 170mm. Fork is at 60psi + / 70psi -, 6 clicks of ramp control.

The good news is that Dirt Merchants weren't kidding--the seals are almost a perfect swap. They're a little taller, but the diameter and depth are the same. I'll include a few photos at the bottom.

First thing - the stiction is almost entirely gone. Before the swap, the fork was really notchy when moving it through the beginning travel. When riding smooth XC stuff it felt locked in place even when pedaling.

After the swap, the fork is much more active on small stuff. It bounces when I pedal. No notchiness at all. So, A+ there.

But, i'd still hesitate to call the fork "plush" on the small stuff. It is better though. The seals probably need some break-in time, and i think I still need to do some tuning (still haven't managed to ever use more than like 60% of the travel).

Not sure where to go from here. Do I drop the pressure further? I'm at 60psi, so is ~55psi even reasonable for a 180lb guy? If so, what does a 120lb woman do on this fork? This just doesn't seem right. I run my 2016 Stage at 75psi and it's way more active.

I'm going to go ride some really rough stuff on Monday so i'll see how it does then and i'll also report on whether there is any seepage. In the meantime, curious to see if MRP/Noah will chime in on this thread. I've called in a few times but have also gotten the "try a few more psi here, a few less psi there" responses. Not that I don't appreciate the advice and I've tried everything they suggested, but I feel like I'm more than just a few psi off on my tuning here.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

Porch said:


> Okay, I installed some Push-branded wipers and seals meant for a Rockshox 35mm fork and used Fox Gold oil in the lowers. I did a quick ride on my neighborhood trails and took it down a few flights of stairs to test it out.
> 
> Me: 180lbs, riding a Canfield Balance with a Ribbon @ 170mm. Fork is at 60psi + / 70psi -, 6 clicks of ramp control.
> 
> ...


Good stuff. I'll be interested in your long term experience and how it feels after some proper riding.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> Okay, I installed some Push-branded wipers and seals meant for a Rockshox 35mm fork and used Fox Gold oil in the lowers...


Thanks for testing for us, I wonder if those are similar to RS branded ones. Easy enough to find the Push ones though



Porch said:


> First thing - the stiction is almost entirely gone. ...


Hot Damn! Smoother than a fresh jar of skippy! That's what we are looking for.



Porch said:


> Not sure where to go from here. Do I drop the pressure further? I'm at 60psi, so is ~55psi even reasonable for a 180lb guy?


I'm 220 running 67, so don't see any reason you couldn't go 60.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> I'm 220 running 67, so don't see any reason you couldn't go 60.


Yeah I mean if it feels good, do it! But it sure feels like a band-aid for some other problem.

One weird thing I notice is that if I air up the negative side and cycle the fork a few times with the pump still attached, the pressure changes drastically. Is that normal? I supposed it's just pushing the piston up and equalizing with the positive side, but thought I'd make sure.


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## cortolillo87 (Dec 7, 2013)

I know this probably won't help much but it took me a while to get the fork dialed in. Now I can't imagine riding anything else. 
Raced the DH race the other weekend and couldn't seem to get the small bumps in the fast sections dialed in. 
After some fiddling with the settings I ended up 
66/74 PSi, 5 clicks in on ramp control and 4 clicks from open on LSC.
Im about 185 with all the gear on. 
Fork handled all the small bumps as well as the lyrik did without any buildup.
Used 95% of the travel on the hard hitting drop to flat. 

Still haven't figured out a good setting for lower speed trail rides. Seems like a fork that just likes to go balls to the wall


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> One weird thing I notice is that if I air up the negative side and cycle the fork a few times with the pump still attached, the pressure changes drastically. Is that normal?


It would be weird if it wasn't doing that, I think.

BTW, cycling a shock or fork with a pump on is a good way to blow something up, that you don't want to blow up. Seen it happen.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> It would be weird if it wasn't doing that, I think.
> 
> BTW, cycling a shock or fork with a pump on is a good way to blow something up, that you don't want to blow up. Seen it happen.


I think I should clarify...

When i air up the negative side to, say, 70psi, if i sit there for a minute the pressure will slowly drop to 65psi or so. If I air it back up to 70psi it will drop down to ~69psi again. I suppose in this case that it's possible that the fork is just "sucking down" a bit and the chamber is expanding.

Now if I leave the pump on there and cycle the shock a few times, then at full extension the pressure is not the same as what I put in there (may be down to 60psi or so).

Just wondering if I have some kind of internal air leak that's causing issues. My understanding is that since these have a separate +/- chamber there should be no air transfer between the two.

(Good advice about the air pump too, never thought of that. Probably okay since it's on the negative side though?)


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Porch said:


> I think I should clarify...
> 
> When i air up the negative side to, say, 70psi, if i sit there for a minute the pressure will slowly drop to 65psi or so. If I air it back up to 70psi it will drop down to ~69psi again. I suppose in this case that it's possible that the fork is just "sucking down" a bit and the chamber is expanding.
> 
> ...


maybe its just your pump ? 
try to get a pressure gauge and measure second time after a while ? you may still loose aobut 1 psi as you are pushing the gauge in something always escapes.. then we can talk about loosing pressure in negative chamber


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> I have mine (27.5 version) set at 170mm with 65psi + / 75psi -. Usually 6-8 clicks of ramp control. So far I have not managed to use more than 70% of my travel and i'm pretty consistently in the 30-40% range. That's a lot higher than I'm used to and I probably need to drop pressure even further.


Howdy! I have to ask, if you're not getting full travel, why do you have any Ramp Control at all?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jmvdigital said:


> I have ended up running a MUCH MUCH lower pressure than what MRP recommends for my fork and weight. I have 3 Ribbons, and all feel similar. Some stiction off the top, generally feels good, but I get worked in the chunk even though it's using travel. My sag is at least 30% if not higher now. I've been staying at 7-8 clicks of Ramp, not wanting to change too many variables at once. But if I leave the low pressure AND back off the ramp, I'm apt to blow through the travel.


Can you post up your vitals and setup? I wanna help, but need to know what we're working with.



jmvdigital said:


> I have heard first-hand that pre-production Ribbon internals that were tested in Stage bodies last year were much better, and that some of the valving was adjusted in the production Ribbon that brought on this harshness.


I don't know anything about this.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy! I have to ask, if you're not getting full travel, why do you have any Ramp Control at all?


Good question, and for tomorrow's outing I've already lowered my ramp control to 4 clicks in and I'm down to 55+/65-.

I guess I'm just confused by the chart you posted and the pressures you're running. They are not even slightly close to what I am finding feels good on this fork. Are we using the same ribbon?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

2zmtnz said:


> the not being able to change back to air is a little downer but hey that hows it works some times.


That's just the way it goes with coils. A re-conversion back to air may work just fine, but contact between the spring and the inside of the stanchion could could make it unreliable for sealing again. You could always send it back to us and we could replace that stanchion if that was the case.


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## PUNKY (Apr 26, 2010)

^With FOX releasing 170mm 29" 36s is a 170mm Ribbon 29 now in the works?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Njhardrock said:


> I think this whole changing whipers and oil is kinda bandaging the problem.... we need some kind of acknowledgement from mrp that there is a issue and are willing to adress it...
> 
> I think we should create a new thread titled (mrp ribbon issues) and keep the discussion in a new thread that we can keep bumped up high on this forum... no foul language or bad mouthing just facts to hopefully try and get some attention to this issue it seems many are having... I believe this would put the heat on mrp and hopefully find a solution because we all bought this product because we like what the company was all about... now lets see if they can show us what there all about
> 
> Anybody apposed? I'm not trying start problems just trying to enjoy the bike i spent lots of money on...


Howdy! Forgive me, I've been at Eurobike. We are very much concerned with fixing your troubles, but this all seems to have popped up in only the last few days when I've been away and we've been a little shorthanded back home. Feel free to contact me directly via PM or e-mail (info -at- mrpbike.com will forward to me if you request me in the subject line).

I'd prefer we keep this in one thread or discuss individually (e-mail or phone). I do read through every post on this thread (just not everyday), creating others will just make it harder to track and address questions.

If you'd like to discuss in this thread, let me know your vitals (weight, bike, fork travel, damper settings, springs settings, etc.) and we can suggest some possible solutions.

Traveling today, back in the office Tuesday. Cheers!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> I can't go lower than 67 psi, I tried 60 and at my size of 220lbs, it's just a bit too soft even with upping the ramp control.
> 
> Small - mid hit plushness C+


Hey ShreddyMcmasterShredder,

I wonder if your "small and mid hit plushness" is a result of too much negative pressure and too soft of a spring rate - casing you to sit and stay about a 1/3 into travel, save for bigger hits.

You said you had 67/80? We don't recommend more than 10psi difference. I'd suggesting dumping the negative. Resetting the positive to 67 (or a few more) and then going to 76-77 max in the negative. Have you got a digital pump? These really help with tuning.

Try that - if you'd like to - and report back!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> FYI, called on the coil upgrade and it won't be available until October at the earliest, and they won't have a price until then either.
> 
> Certainly not trying to hate on mrp here, they have always been awesome to me and I will definitely continue to buy their stuff. But I am a little surprised at the performance of the ribbon after using older stages on both my bikes.


We should have a price sooner than that! I can probably have one on Tuesday. Some of the springs are arriving at different times, but the first of them (and the kits) should be available late September/early October.

RE: your Ribbon. You should expect it to work even better than your Stage and we're committed to getting it that way. Please contact me via PM or e-mail (send to info -at- mrpbike.com and put my name in subject line).


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PUNKY said:


> ^With FOX releasing 170mm 29" 36s is a 170mm Ribbon 29 now in the works?


There are no plans for that today.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CDubz said:


> I'm having the same issues long chunky descents my hands are worked. I've turned compression down to zero, thought maybe my rebound was too fast so slowed it down as well. Looks like I'll try dropping air pressure next. Im riding lower in the fork now with less compressio and rebound which i dont love. Anyone else have thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Where are your pressures (and weight) and Ramp?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> We should have a price sooner than that! I can probably have one on Tuesday. Some of the springs are arriving at different times, but the first of them (and the kits) should be available late September/early October.
> 
> RE: your Ribbon. You should expect it to work even better than your Stage and we're committed to getting it that way. Please contact me via PM or e-mail (send to info -at- mrpbike.com and put my name in subject line).


Thanks! I'll ride it tomorrow and get back to you.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> Good question, and for tomorrow's outing I've already lowered my ramp control to 4 clicks in and I'm down to 55+/65-.
> 
> I guess I'm just confused by the chart you posted and the pressures you're running. They are not even slightly close to what I am finding feels good on this fork. Are we using the same ribbon?


This chart?

I'd take your Ramp to zero until you get a spring rate that gets you full travel.

I've got two Ribbons, they change from time to time. Currently have a 29" 150mm Coil and 29" 135mm Air. When my 150mm was air, I was last using ~68/78. I'm around 170lbs.

Sorry, taking off on a plane, more later!


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Where are your pressures (and weight) and Ramp?


Weight is 175. Its a 140mm 29er, gg trail pistol. I set it up initially per the chart you put up here I have since dropped pressure a bit and compression. That said ive tried to isolate changes and have just tried changing compression and rebound and ramp indepwndently to try and get to a solution. Right now I'm at
LSC - 0
Ramp - 5 clicks
Rebound - 10 clicks 
Positive chamber - 70ish (i don't have a digital guage, hence the ish)
Negative chamber - 75ish

I am using full travel so that seems to be close.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

Porch said:


> I think I should clarify...
> 
> When i air up the negative side to, say, 70psi, if i sit there for a minute the pressure will slowly drop to 65psi or so. If I air it back up to 70psi it will drop down to ~69psi again. I suppose in this case that it's possible that the fork is just "sucking down" a bit and the chamber is expanding.
> 
> ...


Try pushing down on your lowers and pulling up on the bars/stem/crown to make sure the fork has returned to its correct position, then check the negative PSI.

I was noticing the same thing you were and then realized the lowers just weren't at the full return point. The result is a larger volume in the negative chamber resulting in lower PSI. Ensuring the lowers were where they were supposed to be brought the PSI back to what I was expecting.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

liqwid said:


> Try pushing down on your lowers and pulling up on the bars/stem/crown to make sure the fork has returned to its correct position, then check the negative PSI.
> 
> I was noticing the same thing you were and then realized the lowers just weren't at the full return point. The result is a larger volume in the negative chamber resulting in lower PSI. Ensuring the lowers were where they were supposed to be brought the PSI back to what I was expecting.


Also, I blame the "not returning" on "stickyness". Good to know seals meant for the Lyrik works for the Ribbon. I've always been a fan of RWC's seals (REAL WORLD CYCLING AFTERMARKET COMPONENTS, BEARINGS, & SEALS) and was going to try a set for the Lyrik anyway when it was time.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> Hey ShreddyMcmasterShredder,
> 
> I wonder if your "small and mid hit plushness" is a result of too much negative pressure and too soft of a spring rate - causing you to sit and stay about a 1/3 into travel, save for bigger hits.
> 
> ...


I'll try that. It is sitting in a bit of sag.

I was riding School Bus trail in Ned yesterday, and it was really noticeable on the mid speed hits of the 2-4" roots.

I have about 5 shock pumps, a two of them digital, so I'll make sure to double check with a couple different ones.

Thanks for responding to my post, great customer service.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Things didn't go well for me on Monday. I dialed things back to:

2 and then 0 clicks of ramp control
55+ / 65-

The fork is still very harsh on descents and the small bump compliance is not great either. I'm sitting at maybe 15% sag and it seems like I'm mostly using 30-40% of my travel on the downhill with the occasional spike up to 60%. On a 5' drop I managed to use up 80% one time.

Noah, I'm going to shoot you an email and see if I can get an RMA set up so you guys can check this fork out and see if something is wrong. 

I re-read through some posts here and i'm going to try a lower negative pressure on my ride tonight (maybe +7 instead of +10psi), but i've done this before (when I was running 65 in the positive) and it just made the fork really harsh on small bumps.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

Getting help from Noah on the side. Thanks MRP!


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

jmvdigital said:


> Getting help from Noah on the side. Thanks MRP!


Same here. Great product support from MRP. Will be shipping my Ribbon off in a bit here and looking forward to getting it back


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> Same here. Great product support from MRP.


Same here. MRP Customer Service is AWESOME! I'm not sending mine back, I'm still going to work on tuning.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

For the new coil ribbon coming out next month, what will the extra form coil max out at, rider weight wise. Asking for a friend.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

judd1980 said:


> For the new coil ribbon coming out next month, what will the extra form coil max out at, rider weight wise. Asking for a friend.


It'll partly depend on the travel, but likely ~250-270 pounds (max).


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> Hey ShreddyMcmasterShredder,
> 
> I wonder if your "small and mid hit plushness" is a result of too much negative pressure and too soft of a spring rate - casing you to sit and stay about a 1/3 into travel, save for bigger hits.
> 
> ...


So I used my digital shock pump, a sweet Lezyne floor version to reset my pressures.

I dumped the negative, and reset to 67+/77-. It felt a bit to harsh in the garage. So I dumped the negative again and reset to 60+/70-. That felt better. I put in 5 clicks of ramp in case I hit something big and took it out for a rough ride above Nederland, CO.

Overall 60+/70- was smoother than 67+/80-. Which is to be expected. At 220lbs loaded up, I can easily push through all the travel with my weight. But it was smooth. I'm going to run this setup for a bit.

I tend to ride really steep, loose trails, very rocky but not too many big 4ft+ hits/drops. These trails are off the map and would give a seasoned trail builder heartburn about their sustainability. Though I ride "light", and rarely bottom my shocks or damage rims, occasionally I need the shocks to come through. I'm hoping the ramp control saves me on a big hit.

If I do something like Porcupine Rim, I'll likely bump the pressure up. But for my local trails maybe this super low pressure is the ticket for me.


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

I want to second, or maybe thrid. MRP reached out and is taking great care to get my issues resolved. Honestly its the reason I bought this fork. Products have issues but how they take care of them is what makes me a customer. MRP is proving to be top notch. Thanks guys.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I had a knowledgeable friend ride my fork before I shipped it off, and we're pretty sure something was just wrong with mine. I suppose I could have screwed up an o-ring during the travel change, or maybe i just got a fork that was built on a Friday  (I mean, it happens...had it happen with every other brand too).

On the positive side, this same friend told me he had a couple of business associates that were running the Ribbon and they had nothing but positive things to say about the fork, and that it was a big improvement over the Stage they were running previously...which is a high bar in my mind.

Anyways, should be getting my fork back here in a bit and i'm looking forward to round two. In the meantime, my earlier complaints about the fork may have been misguided (assuming that an actual issue with the fork was a tuning problem or in the nature of the fork), so anyone reading those comments should take them with a grain of salt. MRP is taking great care of me!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> Anyways, should be getting my fork back here in a bit and i'm looking forward to round two. In the meantime, my earlier complaints about the fork may have been misguided (assuming that an actual issue with the fork was a tuning problem or in the nature of the fork), so anyone reading those comments should take them with a grain of salt. MRP is taking great care of me!


Should go back out to you today! Thanks for your patience.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

I'd like to hear some reviews from relatively lightweight riders (~150lbs) on the Ribbon and what they think about the small bump performance of the fork, assuming there's been some time to tune the fork to their liking.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

Just received my 130mm 29er Ribbon and stoked to install it. Before I do, I'm going to bump the travel to 150mm. 

Watching the video, it shows that you remove spacers to increase travel. I am assuming that removing all the white spacers will take the fork to 150mm?

Also, what specific oil weight should be used in the legs?

Thanks!


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Noah, questions about the independent negative air spring design on the Ribbon:

When you adjust the negative air pressure, the volume of the negative chamber doesn't also change with pressure, does it? I'm assuming if the negative chamber volume does increase with pressure, then this is the same thing as the fork getting "sucked down" with too much relative pressure in the negative chamber? Is there a way to change the negative chamber volume without affecting the travel (assuming reasonable pressure balance in the positive and negative chambers)?


When you change the travel on the fork, does the negative air chamber volume/length stay constant? I'm assuming it does - how then does this affect the fork's air spring characteristics when you're comparing the extremes of travel adjustments, like 120mm vs 160mm? Would this tend to make the shorter travel fork feel like it has more support at midstroke than the longer travel fork?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

judd1980 said:


> Just received my 130mm 29er Ribbon and stoked to install it. Before I do, I'm going to bump the travel to 150mm.
> 
> Watching the video, it shows that you remove spacers to increase travel. I am assuming that removing all the white spacers will take the fork to 150mm?
> 
> ...


Forgive my tardiness, been away at Interbike...

If you're at 130mm of travel and want 150mm, remove 20mm of spacers. Whether or not that is all that is pre-installed or not depends on if the fork was built as a long-travel model (capable of 160mm) or not. Some dealers and distributors have ordered them all that way. However, the vast majority of 120 and 130mm 27.5+/29" Ribbons are of the "max 150mm" variety.

As for bath oil, 5 or 10wt oil can be used. We use Torco RFF5.


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

Wrong thread


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jaks said:


> Noah, questions about the independent negative air spring design on the Ribbon...


The force of the negative spring against the positive spring balances out when the negative pressure is in the range of 5 to 10 psi more than the positive. Taking the negative pressure beyond that difference will at some point diminish travel.

We allow the negative chamber to expand as travel spacers are added. With shortened travel, more air pressure will be required and the starting ramp of the fork will steepen as well. Our own testing shows that the size of the negative spring ends up being in the appropriate range for each travel option.

Mid-stroke support depends on more than one factor, however at shortened travel sag will fall closer to the transition off of the negative chamber and this could well be felt as additional support in the portion of the stroke just beyond sag.


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## Njhardrock (Feb 17, 2013)

Ok guys just want say noah and the guys sent me out a brand new fork....

The difference is night and day.... 
the new fork has none of the notchy-ness as stated in my previous post.... performance is spot on for what I expected 

I want to thank mrp for going out on the limb and doing the right thing... this fork is definitely plush and i am excited to get it dialed in but it is definitely alot better the the first fork i had received

Thanks again noah


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*Pinkbike Review*

Since many of you have asked for reviews, here's a link to the new review from Pinkbike. :thumbsup:

Pinkbike: MRP Ribbon Review


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

NoahColorado said:


> The force of the negative spring against the positive spring balances out when the negative pressure is in the range of 5 to 10 psi more than the positive. Taking the negative pressure beyond that difference will at some point diminish travel.
> 
> We allow the negative chamber to expand as travel spacers are added. With shortened travel, more air pressure will be required and the starting ramp of the fork will steepen as well. Our own testing shows that the size of the negative spring ends up being in the appropriate range for each travel option.
> 
> Mid-stroke support depends on more than one factor, however at shortened travel sag will fall closer to the transition off of the negative chamber and this could well be felt as additional support in the portion of the stroke just beyond sag.


So if I'm understanding this right, the longer travel fork would have a lower volume negative chamber and the shortened fork would have a higher volume negative chamber. Which essentially means the longer forks would feel more rampy and the shorter forks would feel more linear, generally speaking?

I wonder if MRP could provide an optional longer airshaft for the longer travel setting, where you would add a corresponding length of spacers to the negative air chamber to create a a bigger negative chamber while keeping the overall travel the same.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I got my fork back from MRP as well. Can't say enough good things about the service--Noah, Cole, and everyone else I dealt with there was awesome.

My fork is hugely improved. All the stiction is gone and it feels better than my Stage. I was told that they rebuilt the air spring and swapped out wipers (apparently their newest version of wipers were actually less sticky than the Push/RS wipers I had installed). Overall I think they said on their dyno it was like a 40% reduction in stiction.

I'm still messing with tuning, but so far it's been very promising.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

jaks said:


> So if I'm understanding this right, the longer travel fork would have a lower volume negative chamber and the shortened fork would have a higher volume negative chamber. Which essentially means the longer forks would feel more rampy and the shorter forks would feel more linear, generally speaking?
> 
> I wonder if MRP could provide an optional longer airshaft for the longer travel setting, where you would add a corresponding length of spacers to the negative air chamber to create a a bigger negative chamber while keeping the overall travel the same.


If that's correct, that would kind of jive with what i've been seeing in my tuning.

I was running my fork at 170mm on my Canfield Balance, which means a small negative chamber. I was running 50+/60- air and the fork felt good with 0-2 clicks of ramp control. It was using the travel pretty well but i still felt like I could have used less ramp-up.

Last night I dropped the fork to 160mm (unrelated to the fork - my front wheel was wandering a lot on climbs), which bumped up the size of the negative chamber by 10mm. I've only had some quick testing on it but even at my initial 72+/78- and 6 clicks of ramp control, it's feeling pretty good. I'll get a good run on it this weekend (if the rain ever stops).

Seems like a lot of the Fox and RS guys are swapping to bigger negative chambers at the longer end of the travel range. I'd be curious to see how it affects the Ribbon.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Sorry - three posts in a row. The rain gods were unexpectedly gracious tonight and I managed to sneak in a 12 mile ride before the downpour started.

My Ribbon at 160mm is absolutely awesome...exactly what I always hoped it would be. I haven't even started tweaking the pressures, and I barely played with the ramp control (think i'm at maybe 6 clicks in, 72+/78- right now). 

Of course, changing the travel changed more than just the negative spring - it also shifted my weight forward and I do feel my bike performs better at 160 than it did at 170 - but I'm convinced that the larger negative air spring is what finally made this fork feel great for me. It just gobbles up the bumps and there's no harshness on anything I could find.

I guess the unspoken part is that i think the fork @170mm could use a larger negative air spring (or a coil). But i'm certainly no expert, this is just what worked for me.

Loving my Ribbon now <3


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I went out last time for a ride, these hiking trails here in Switzerland are very Rocky and technical.
I have been tinkering with the air pressure a little, for my 83 kg dressed, 85 psi was too much, tried 65 as some guy here said that he runs 60 foot 220 lb rider, that felt too harsh, deep in travel, hands in pain. I eyeballed it and pumped to 75/84 on the trailside. And it's just awesome!
Just as described in the review Noah linked here, it's off the top, high in travel all the time but hit a rock even in walking speed and the wheel goes off the way, supportive throughout the stroke (that is the dream of air spring right?), feels great at higher speeds.
One thing is, maybe LSC could be a bit softer in most open position. 

Don't want to unleash the storm but are there any new seals available or different oil? As some guys here talk about lowered stiction. 
Anyways very happy with it, great value, great company! 

150 mm ribbon, ~83 kg, 75/85 pos/neg, Rebound ~9, ramp at 2, compression 0.

Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

Porch said:


> Sorry - three posts in a row. The rain gods were unexpectedly gracious tonight and I managed to sneak in a 12 mile ride before the downpour started.
> 
> My Ribbon at 160mm is absolutely awesome...exactly what I always hoped it would be. I haven't even started tweaking the pressures, and I barely played with the ramp control (think i'm at maybe 6 clicks in, 72+/78- right now).
> 
> ...


Thanks for this. I've been debating on dropping mine to 160 on my v2 Megatrail, mainly to assist on the climbs. The holdout has been on losing almost half a degree on the head angle but the added benefits you get with a larger negative chamber might be the silver lining on that.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

liqwid said:


> Thanks for this. I've been debating on dropping mine to 160 on my v2 Megatrail, mainly to assist on the climbs. The holdout has been on losing almost half a degree on the head angle but the added benefits you get with a larger negative chamber might be the silver lining on that.


One other thing I didn't realize until I changed my travel to 160 is that they include a 5mm spacer. That means you can run the fork at 165mm if you're so inclined. Bonus!


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

Porch said:


> One other thing I didn't realize until I changed my travel to 160 is that they include a 5mm spacer. That means you can run the fork at 165mm if you're so inclined. Bonus!


Ha, I did see the 5mm spacer but never thought of going to a mid point. I'll try 10mm and if I don't like the steepness on the downs I can always try going half way before going back to 170mm.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> One other thing I didn't realize until I changed my travel to 160 is that they include a 5mm spacer. That means you can run the fork at 165mm if you're so inclined. Bonus!


Yeah buddy!


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## kdiff (Apr 25, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah buddy!


Noah, any chance there will be a 180mm ribbon coil? I want to buy one but I'll be buying a fork that can do a 170-180mm.


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## macthekife (Jul 14, 2012)

As soon as MRP have the hope boost adapters available ill be ordering a ribbon coil. So far the stage has been absolutely faultless and really looking forward to the ribbon. 

Bring it 

Also i have to take my hat off to MRP at the moment. The customer service, the great kit and the adapters that mean i don't have to get a new wheel sorted to run boost.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

So after reading several threads where people are using the MRP ramp control kits to deal with issues on their fox or rock shox forks I started reading about the Ribbon fork. After reading this entire thread and any others I could find I ended up scraping my thoughts of buying a 36 and ordered a Ribbon 170.


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## DarthBobo (Sep 21, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> Awesome! Thanks
> 
> Metric shock? Nothing springs to mind...


It's been 2 months Noah.... Does something spring to mind yet?
I'd love to have full MRP squish


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

DarthBobo said:


> It's been 2 months Noah.... Does something spring to mind yet?
> I'd love to have full MRP squish


Nothing yet. 

Sorry, we've been busy! Check back in the spring.


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## Apolonios (Mar 3, 2016)

I'm having a hard time understanding what being able to adjust the negative and positive pressures independently brings?

How does it compare to a fork with independent low speed / high speed compression adjustment?

Also in terms of stiffness is this fork more like a Lyrik or a Pike?


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

Installed one tonight on my Megatrail...excited to try it out this weekend!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

Apolonios said:


> I'm having a hard time understanding what being able to adjust the negative and positive pressures independently brings?
> 
> How does it compare to a fork with independent low speed / high speed compression adjustment?
> 
> Also in terms of stiffness is this fork more like a Lyrik or a Pike?


Positive spring holds you up, negative spring pulls the fork into its travel easier. Having control of both lets you tune the fork to feel how you want it to.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SB Trails (Sep 14, 2012)

Just wanted to say thanks to the guys that spoke up in here ... For my ribbon--Stiction is the word..

Im glad i found this thread.. Ive been trying everything to get my ribbon to have less stiction and feel more fluid .. I called and got the same "try a few less lbs of air".. No matter what i do, i get a ton of stiction right off initial stroke and high speed chudder just about tears my hands off.. I thought it was just me(everyone talked about how plush the stage was).. So after doing a search for "mrp ribbon not plush"-- i found this thread.. Sounds like others have had the same problems.. 2 days ago i decided to take my old bike out for a ride and couldnt believe how much nicer my old(2014) pike was.. Plush and worked great-- was bummed i couldn't just put it on my current bike---but since its a 2014 pike,it wasnt boost-- so new wheels wont work.. ... Looks like ill have to touch base with Noah..



Wonder it was just a bad batch.. 

Porch.. Ill give you a Pm to see how things are going for ya..


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Yeah, for the record MRP got my Ribbon fixed up great. They rebuilt my damper and air spring and (i think) re-sized my bushings a bit since i'm using the longer end of the travel range. Very, very little stiction left, seems average for an air fork.

I had a Moab trip this past weekend and I was really happy with how the fork performed. Tons of support and it tracked really well for a whole 8,000 feet of descending. Very confidence-inspiring.

The small bump is still not as good as my buddy's Lyrik, but once you get past that I think it's a far better fork. I'll probably switch to a coil once the internals are ready, just because a lot of my local riding would benefit from the better small bump and there isn't much weight penalty.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

How much do you guys weigh? I'm wondering if the lack of small bump sensitivity has more to do with damping (do you run it all the way open?) or the air spring or the overall friction in the system. 

Damping - would lighter weight oil help?
Air Spring - bigger negative chamber volume could help, especially in the longer travel versions?
Friction - probably not much you could do about that besides relying on MRP to match bushing sizes correctly.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

As an update on my Ribbons, I sent 2 of them back to MRP per Noah’s request. Amazing customer service, truly. I got the forks back within a week (including shipping time), which is also damn fine service. Both Ribbons are now absolutely stellar. Perhaps some early production issues, or running production changes? I don’t know.

Stiction is all but gone and very much inline with a Fox 34 FIT4 (with Ramp Control module!) that I also have. The mid-stroke harshness is gone and overall I have zero negative feedback on the Ribbon. Very happy with it. 

I was out on a 4,400’ ride on some of the Front Range’s rockiest terrain a few days ago and it was stellar. I don’t know what those guys did to the fork, but it’s bomber now.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

jaks said:


> How much do you guys weigh? I'm wondering if the lack of small bump sensitivity has more to do with damping (do you run it all the way open?) or the air spring or the overall friction in the system.
> 
> Damping - would lighter weight oil help?
> Air Spring - bigger negative chamber volume could help, especially in the longer travel versions?
> Friction - probably not much you could do about that besides relying on MRP to match bushing sizes correctly.


I'm 180 out of the shower (but i'm also 6'4" and ride an XL bike). I'd like to try a larger negative chamber, but it isn't really an option for these forks right now. I currently run my ramp control fully open.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Yeah I keep hearing about guys that are 170lbs+ that run LSC fully open and ramp almost open on the Ribbon forks, which makes me think there's not enough adjustment range on the lower end for lighter riders like me. I might have to go with a Lyrik even though it's heavier for this reason.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

jaks said:


> Yeah I keep hearing about guys that are 170lbs+ that run LSC fully open and ramp almost open on the Ribbon forks, which makes me think there's not enough adjustment range on the lower end for lighter riders like me. I might have to go with a Lyrik even though it's heavier for this reason.


FWIW I'm 185 fully geared up. If I run the recommended pressure I can blast through the rocks way faster than the coil fork I came off of but its slightly harsher (no surprise there) and I use only 3 to 4 clicks of ramp and compression fully open. I say its harsher but its not bad by any means and I'm still have amazing control.

If I want a more comfort-style ride I've dialed the pressure back by 5 to 10psi and its nice and plush but I use 6 to 8 clicks on ramp, 2 to 3 clicks on compression and rock gardens are just not as fast as it is with the recommended pressure. This feels more like the coil fork I came off of.

I'd play with the pressure settings and see what you like best. Just because there's a knob doesn't mean you necessarily need to have it turned up .

Also FWIW I personally prefer the higher pressure/barely any ramp 99% of the time over less pressure/more ramp and compression. It's just too much fun to smash through gnar. The spring fine tuning and ease of switching the rate is definitely keeping me on air shocks at the moment.


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## MX4U (Mar 8, 2010)

Any new long term reviews? Plushness? I'm building up a new Transition Patrol and had my mind set on a Lyrik for it's plush ride. The other day I was talking to a guy that rides the Ribbon, which led me here to check it out.

First question, ribbon specs 44mm offset. RS/Fox are 42, and Transition specs the patrol as 42. What does 44mm offset do? Would this be a problem for this bike?

After reading through this whole thread, I had my mind made up on a Ribbon... Until posts about a month ago regarding stiction and harshness. Was there an issue that was taken care of on new builds? It seems most here are lightweights and low travel. I guess I'm a clyde at 205lbs, want 170mm travel. Will this fork feel better with a heavier rider, long travel?

90% of the time I ride an hour a day at the local bike park. (Downhill and jump lines). But a couple times a year at lift access parks, and a local 18 mile down hill ride, my hands and arms go numb from small bump/washboard harshness. I am now seriously considering a ribbon, but a little concerned on a harsh ride. I really want to try ramp control vs tokens, so the ribbon makes sense to me. Even if I end up with a Lyrik, I would like to give ramp control a try. Sounds better than messing with tokens. Initial $ of the Ribbon is way less than a new Lyrik + ramp control.

Thoughts? Thanks.


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

get ribbon coil. It should be good for ur hands.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

MX4U said:


> Any new long term reviews?


Pinkbike
Singletrack



MX4U said:


> First question, ribbon specs 44mm offset. RS/Fox are 42, and Transition specs the patrol as 42. What does 44mm offset do? Would this be a problem for this bike?


In short, no. I seriously doubt anyone would notice a 2mm difference in offset. FWIW, Fox is also 44, not 42mm.

There's quite a bit of industry debate about long vs. short offset, but we're not talking about either of those here. Standard 27.5" fork offset has ranged from the low to mid 40s for the last five or so years.



MX4U said:


> After reading through this whole thread, I had my mind made up on a Ribbon... Until posts about a month ago regarding stiction and harshness. Was there an issue that was taken care of on new builds? It seems most here are lightweights and low travel. I guess I'm a clyde at 205lbs, want 170mm travel. Will this fork feel better with a heavier rider, long travel?


I think if you read through the posts, we've done our best to take care of everyone who was experiencing those issues - and they all are reporting much improved performance since getting their forks back. In terms of what we've changed from a production standpoint, we've made a number of small changes to parts and processes that has yielded significantly lower average stiction numbers. We've also revised down our dyno-cutoff for baseline stiction - every fork is tested for function and performance before it goes out the door. That's not new, but the targets are tighter and better now.

But, perhaps you should consider the coil model if you're riding bike park frequently. There's simply no getting around the fact that coil performs better than air in those conditions. It's the prolonged, high-speed, chattery stuff where coil takes the cake. In my mind, that's because there are so many fewer seals moving at turnaround (compression to rebound) - it's more freely moving under those micro hits, and those add up.


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## Max Gough (Apr 17, 2010)

Apolonios said:


> Also in terms of stiffness is this fork more like a Lyrik or a Pike?


I'm also interested in knowing this.

Noah - can you shed any light? Very keen on a 29/160 Ribbon Coil, but I've always ridden either 36s or Lyriks and don't want to go backwards in steering precision.

Other anecdotal experiences also welcome.

Thanks.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Noah, 

where can I find the Ribbon service manual for the damper? I didn’t see it on the website.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I've never had any time on a Pike, and pretty minimal time on a Lyrik. But I can say that the Ribbon is somewhere between my Stage and a Fox 36 in terms of stiffness.

My Fox 36 was a 20mm axle, 32h hub with a 40mm carbon wheel, and the Stage is (i think) fairly close to the old Pike in terms of stiffness, so I'd say the Ribbon is a pretty stout fork. I certainly don't have any complaints.


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## Max Gough (Apr 17, 2010)

Porch said:


> I've never had any time on a Pike, and pretty minimal time on a Lyrik. But I can say that the Ribbon is somewhere between my Stage and a Fox 36 in terms of stiffness.
> 
> My Fox 36 was a 20mm axle, 32h hub with a 40mm carbon wheel, and the Stage is (i think) fairly close to the old Pike in terms of stiffness, so I'd say the Ribbon is a pretty stout fork. I certainly don't have any complaints.


OK, thanks for the feedback. That doesn't sound terrible. I've now ordered one at 29/160 to replace my Lyrik. Looking forward to taking delivery early/mid November :O)


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

jaks said:


> How much do you guys weigh? I'm wondering if the lack of small bump sensitivity has more to do with damping (do you run it all the way open?) or the air spring or the overall friction in the system.
> 
> Damping - would lighter weight oil help?
> Air Spring - bigger negative chamber volume could help, especially in the longer travel versions?
> Friction - probably not much you could do about that besides relying on MRP to match bushing sizes correctly.


I'm 150lbs and demoed a 27.5 140mm Ribbon yesterday. I ran it just a bit softer than what their site recommends- 72 pos/78 neg, rebound 13 clicks from closed. I ran no ramp control, nor LSC. After a nice long intermediate ride with some rocks and tech, I still had over an 1" of travel remaining.

Overall, I thought the fork was awesome. Not the absolute plushest, but not harsh at all either. It was very predictable and did a good job of smoothing out the terrain. Support was awesome. I didn't have much chance to play with the settings any further. I would definitely consider purchasing this fork.

Also, it feels much better on the trail than in the shop/garage, but you don't need all that much speed to get it feeling good.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

Penny said:


> I'm 150lbs and demoed a 27.5 140mm Ribbon yesterday. I ran it just a bit softer than what their site recommends- 72 pos/78 neg, rebound 13 clicks from closed. I ran no ramp control, nor LSC. After a nice long intermediate ride with some rocks and tech, I still had over an 1" of travel remaining.
> 
> Overall, I thought the fork was awesome. Not the absolute plushest, but not harsh at all either. It was very predictable and did a good job of smoothing out the terrain. Support was awesome. I didn't have much chance to play with the settings any further. I would definitely consider purchasing this fork.


I have found that the MRP pressure recommendations are much higher than what I ride. With my 150mm 29" Ribbon, I'm running 50psi, but MRP recommends 68-72psi. My 50psi results in just a hair over 20% sag, and with 5-6 clicks of Ramp Control, I rarely (if ever) bottom the fork out. I could probably go lower.

If you were to lower the pressure, and then increase the Ramp Control (which handles the progressive bottom out), you'll get a much more plush feel down low, without blowing through top-end travel on big hits. Pretty rad system.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Penny said:


> I'm 150lbs and demoed a 27.5 140mm Ribbon yesterday. I ran it just a bit softer than what their site recommends- 72 pos/78 neg, rebound 13 clicks from closed. I ran no ramp control, nor LSC. After a nice long intermediate ride with some rocks and tech, I still had over an 1" of travel remaining.
> 
> Overall, I thought the fork was awesome. Not the absolute plushest, but not harsh at all either. It was very predictable and did a good job of smoothing out the terrain. Support was awesome. I didn't have much chance to play with the settings any further. I would definitely consider purchasing this fork.
> 
> Also, it feels much better on the trail than in the shop/garage, but you don't need all that much speed to get it feeling good.


Thanks for the feedback!

FYI, at full bottom-out, the travel o-ring won't ever touch the crown on the 27.5" model. It should stop with ~10mm of stanchion still showing. On the 27.5+/29" it gets closer.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

jmvdigital said:


> I have found that the MRP pressure recommendations are much higher than what I ride. With my 150mm 29" Ribbon, I'm running 50psi, but MRP recommends 68-72psi. My 50psi results in just a hair over 20% sag, and with 5-6 clicks of Ramp Control, I rarely (if ever) bottom the fork out. I could probably go lower.
> 
> If you were to lower the pressure, and then increase the Ramp Control (which handles the progressive bottom out), you'll get a much more plush feel down low, without blowing through top-end travel on big hits. Pretty rad system.


Agreed that if you're looking for more comfort the recommended pressures can be high and you just need to let out some air.

If you're looking to go ludicrous speed then the air pressures are pretty much spot on but you'll have to have your body positioning down so you're putting all your weight on your pedals and almost nothing on your hands (you're supposed to be riding like this anyway).


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

jmvdigital said:


> I'm running 50psi, but MRP recommends 68-72psi.


What do you weigh? I've settled in to 63/73 at 210lbs.

BTW: any word on the coil option?


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

I put in a pre-order through Dirt Merchants in Colorado for the coil Ribbon. Hopefully arrive in the middle of November. Recently visited Fruita and Grand Gunction for a week of riding. Stopped in at MRP headquarters and they took time from their busy day to give us a tour. Awesome people and awesome products. Own a Stage, which I love and soon a Coil Ribbon. Can't wait...


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> What do you weigh? I've settled in to 63/73 at 210lbs.


My ride weight (with water/bag/helmet/etc) is about 175.

Despite what liqwid said, even at high speed, I am not consistently bottoming the fork at 50psi. Maybe on DH/park runs I could see bumping it up. Personally, any faster and I'd have more issues with tires/rims or general bike control than fork travel. Maybe just a ride style difference. I typically find myself in the top 20-30% of downhill Strava segments. So while I'm not race material, I ain't slow either.

Light hands, heavy feet, heels down, hip hinged.


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## liqwid (Jan 2, 2007)

jmvdigital said:


> My ride weight (with water/bag/helmet/etc) is about 175.
> 
> Despite what liqwid said, even at high speed, I am not consistently bottoming the fork at 50psi. Maybe on DH/park runs I could see bumping it up. Personally, any faster and I'd have more issues with tires/rims or general bike control than fork travel. Maybe just a ride style difference. I typically find myself in the top 20-30% of downhill Strava segments. So while I'm not race material, I ain't slow either.
> 
> Light hands, heavy feet, heels down, hip hinged.


FWIW I run 30-35PSI in my tires due to the fact that I kept destroying rims . I don't use Strava, my speed vs shock pressure observations are from comparing against runs on the same trail using a GPS watch.

I can't say I'm faster than anyone else but I can say I am generally faster with more pressure in the fork. I'm never bottoming out even when I run lower pressures either unless I'm dropping to flat but I'll do that with the higher pressures too, it just takes a higher drop.

Ride whatever's comfortable to you, I'm surprised how still in control I feel running higher pressures. I know with previous forks that was not the case. Something that is helping a lot is having a CCDB air as my rear shock. Its hard to notice if the fork is tracking well if the back end is bouncing all over the place.

When I tested out the frame I'm running now it had a RS Lyrik up front and a Super Deluxe in the rear and the bike felt good enough for me to buy it but it was nothing like the setup I'm running now. With the RS setup, if I let off the brakes in rough sections it felt like I was going too fast. With the Ribbon and CCDB air I don't usually notice I'm going too fast over a section until I see an off camber, rocky corner is coming up too quickly


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> What do you weigh? I've settled in to 63/73 at 210lbs.
> 
> BTW: any word on the coil option?


We're still waiting on firm springs. We're expecting forks to start shipping by mid-November and kits to follow shortly after.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

@NoahColoarado
Are the issues with the stiction and harness completely resolved now?

I'm looking for a new 150mm 29er fork to go on my Pole Evolink 140 and the Ribbon and Lyrik are at the top of my list.

I was gravitating to the Ribbon as I read the Lyrik's charger damper can feel harsh and the CSUs can potentially suffer with creaking but now after reading threads further up that some Ribbons suffered from stiction and harshness too I'm in two minds which way to go.

At what serial number did the new dyno test parameters kick in? I assume there are still a number of forks out in vendors' inventory that are still calibrated to the older parameters. I would prefer to avoid those.

I'm 185lb fully kitted (or 176lb when riding without the pack and bladder) and am concerned after reading that lighter riders seem to have to run with the ramp control and LSC almost fully open. I ride mostly rooty singletrack but venture to the Western Carolina mountains (Pisgah) a couple of times a month where it's steep, rooty and rocky.

I haven't ridden the Lyrik or Ribbon so I'm basing my decision purely off what I've read on forums and reviews. Already spending a $$$$ building this bike up so don't want to make a mistake on the fork.

At the moment my understanding is that the Lyrik is better at small bump compliance and plushness but suffers a little with harshness and rides deep in it's travel. Has anyone ridden both the Lyrik and Ribbon that can give me a fair comparison?

I like the fact the a MRP rep is active on the forums and their service seems exemplary. 

I'm still leaning toward the Ribbon - only just. Just need that little nudge.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

trail-blazer said:


> @NoahColoarado
> Are the issues with the stiction and harness completely resolved now?


Following the half-dozen reports of stiction and harshness on this forum, we retrieved those users' forks and serviced them. At that time we replaced or reworked any elements 
the we thought could be contributing to those impressions. Across the board, everyone has been pleased with the results.

As for production forks, we tightened our QC processes and dyno test requirements. So far, I haven't heard from anyone that's had similar issues.

I'm sorry I don't have serial numbers to reference. But not many of our partners hold suspension stock, so it's likely anything you ordered today would be from recent production. If you want to me 100% sure, just order direct from us, or have your preferred bike shop order from us.

You might consider going coil. Since that Pole is so slack, you're already fighting an uphill battle in regards to the fork telescoping freely and smoothly. Removing several seals from the spring system, as a coil would do, will help in that regard. Especially since you say your trails are rooty - high-frequency bumps like those is one area where the sensitivity of coil prevails. Weight difference of our Ribbon Coil vs. a Rock Shox Lyrik is negligible.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Hey trail-blazer, I have a Ribbon Coil on pre-order for the fact that MRP will have your back. Awesome people and awesome company. I have a Stage now and will keep that for awhile. MRP will talk to us, the customer, directly; other companies not so much.


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey Noah, is there going to be a pre-order option for the Ribbon Coil on your website?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

killjoyken said:


> Hey Noah, is there going to be a pre-order option for the Ribbon Coil on your website?


Not on the website, but we can do that over the phone. You can get one on order today!

The issue is our e-commerce software and credit card processing.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> Following the half-dozen reports of stiction and harshness on this forum, we retrieved those users' forks and serviced them. At that time we replaced or reworked any elements
> the we thought could be contributing to those impressions. Across the board, everyone has been pleased with the results.
> 
> As for production forks, we tightened our QC processes and dyno test requirements. So far, I haven't heard from anyone that's had similar issues.
> ...


Thanks for the reply. I have no doubts about your customer service which is a big draw for me.

Interesting point about going coil. The HA of the Pole is 64.5 which is slack but didn't think it was to the point where it would really affect stiction or telescoping freely. I know some of the Nicolai Mojo Geometrons approaching 62 deg were getting borderline of forks working well.

When are the coil versions expected to become available and what is the cost vs the air version?

The only thing that would hold me back on a coil is the relative lack of adjust ability of the spring rate. With air you just add or remove air to adjust the spring but with coil no so easy. How do you deal with cases where rider weight or preference falls between two spring rates or near the extreme end of a spring rate? I assume there would be no ramp control with coil. As you can tell I know little about coil as I always considered it more for DH or aggressive Enduro.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

ScottieM8 said:


> Hey trail-blazer, I have a Ribbon Coil on pre-order for the fact that MRP will have your back. Awesome people and awesome company. I have a Stage now and will keep that for awhile. MRP will talk to us, the customer, directly; other companies not so much.


Of that I have no doubt. The fact that Noah is here and active on other forums speaks volumes.


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

As mentioned time and time again, there is no comparison to MRP's customer service both as a shop or as a direct consumer.

Most online retailers will be ordering from a distributor. Their stock will likely be older. 

The Ribbon Coil has a spring preload up top and some version of Ramp Control at the bottom...they've been tight lipped. I'm really excited to see some details!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

trail-blazer said:


> When are the coil versions expected to become available and what is the cost vs the air version?
> 
> The only thing that would hold me back on a coil is the relative lack of adjust ability of the spring rate. With air you just add or remove air to adjust the spring but with coil no so easy. How do you deal with cases where rider weight or preference falls between two spring rates or near the extreme end of a spring rate?


Understand that part of my enthusiasm for coil is that it's what I'm riding most at the moment and I'm really having fun plowing into s#!t and playing a little game I call "Worst Line Possible". Haha.

Coil is in production now and we're expecting the first ones to ship mid-month. The price is the same as the air model and they include soft, medium (installed), and firm springs.

As for riders on the borderline between spring rates, we do have an external preload adjust to help fine tune and choosing between one rate or the other is pretty easy to figure out based on travel, intended use, and preference. With five springs (x-soft and x-firm being the additional ones to the three included) that cover a ~125 rider weight range, the rates are close enough to each other that, for instance, one's not gonna be way too soft and the next heavier option far too heavy.

We actually do have Ramp Control in the Ribbon Coil. Similar to its implementation in the air forks, in the coil model it controls the rate of air flow between the ambient volume in the lowers and that inside the spring leg (in the air model that "control" takes place between two sections of the positive air spring). The increase in pressure in the lowers during a deep compression can add quite a bit to the effective spring rate, which is the exact reason we include the PSST™ pressure relief valves on the castings. However the goal of PSST™ valves is to make sure so much pressure isn't accumulating (either through ingestion at the seals, a change in elevation or temperature) that it's negatively affecting the general feel of the fork (not just in the ending stroke, but everywhere). At "min" Ramp Control, the fork remains fairly linear the whole way through. At "max" Ramp Control, the fork gains support at the ending stroke (on high-speed hits) - it gets more progressive.


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## Feldybikes (Feb 17, 2004)

Apologies if this is a bit of thread drift: I've been wondering why anyone would buy a Stage at this point since it's the same price, marginally heavier, and potentially slightly flexier (stanchions are smaller anyway)? Besides having an unreasonable level of hatred for boost or not being able to deal with the Ribbon's arch, is there any logical reason to go with a Stage at this point?


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> Understand that part of my enthusiasm for coil is that it's what I'm riding most at the moment and I'm really having fun plowing into s#!t and playing a little game I call "Worst Line Possible". Haha.


This sounds suspiciously like how I have always liked to ride... am strongly considering a Ribbon coil to replace the underwhelming Fox 34 I have.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Feldybikes said:


> Apologies if this is a bit of thread drift: I've been wondering why anyone would buy a Stage at this point...


I suppose someone might own a really nice front wheel (or several wheels) that can't be converted to boost. That's about it.


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## Feldybikes (Feb 17, 2004)

Pretty much what I thought. Thanks, Noah.


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Just placed an order for the Ribbon Coil! I'm a little bummed it's boost only but it gives me an excuse to finally get a matching Onyx hub for the front. 

Goodbye Pike, hello Ribbon!


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

Hey Noah,

Can you clarify what the spring rates are for the Soft/Medium/Firm coils? The usual 10lb/in increments between springs?

Thanks


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks for detailed explanation Noah. I think you've just made my whole decision more complex by throwing in the coil option lol.

Very temped to go the coil route. Does coil have any disadvantages, except weight, where an air spring would work better? What is keeping all manufacturers from doing coil if it's so good?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

trail-blazer said:


> Thanks for detailed explanation Noah. I think you've just made my whole decision more complex by throwing in the coil option lol.
> 
> Very temped to go the coil route. Does coil have any disadvantages, except weight, where an air spring would work better? What is keeping all manufacturers from doing coil if it's so good?


The other drawback to coils is that they're very linear, whereas air springs are naturally progressive. Some people like linear, some people don't.

MRP has figured out a way to use their Ramp Control technology (progressivity adjustment) on their coil shocks. Which means there is no downside to an MRP coil fork other than the slight weight increase.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

trail-blazer said:


> What is keeping all manufacturers from doing coil if it's so good?


Here is where I wish I had a meme of Morpheus from The Matrix saying "What if I told you performance is not the number one driver for most manufacturers' product decisions?" 

I'd say there are two reasons why.

For one, you can't underestimate how much weight matters to some people. You can argue about which for is best, but you can't argue about which fork is lightest. There has been an ongoing race between the big guys to have the lightest fork in each class, if you're starting with a 1/2 lb. spring penalty, you ain't gonna win.

Two, considerations for the OEM market drive product design for the big guys. Coil is not that "OEM friendly". Bike shops aren't going to be enthusiastic about cracking open a new fork to install a different spring on a brand new bike to set it up for a customer. It's (theoretically at least) easier to setup air suspension. However, I know one bike brand that actually prefers coils, because even if the spring rate is pretty far off for a given customer, the performance of the bike won't suffer as much as a REALLY badly setup air-spring system.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Yeah, I guess that all makes sense Noah. Didn't consider how easy it is for the bike store with air. 

Looking at the coil spring/weight chart, I fall between spring rates. If I'm just going for a quick loop without pack I'm in the top end of the soft spring. If out for a longer ride with full pack I'm in the bottom end of the medium spring. So would I set up the fork with the medium spring or soft spring? It seems like a compromise will need to be made or is there a large (30-40%) overlap in the springs? If the color codes on the chart are accurate it looks like there is only a 16% overlap.

Does the preload adjust the sag point or the spring rate or both?

With air I just add or remove 5-10psi depending. Just trying to understand how using a coil would work before making my decision.


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## gosts (Sep 13, 2015)

stupid question, but can you turn a standard ribbon into a coil w/ new internals? 

Mine is feeling a little sticky at the top of the travel, may need to have it checked out.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

gosts said:


> stupid question, but can you turn a standard ribbon into a coil w/ new internals?
> 
> Mine is feeling a little sticky at the top of the travel, may need to have it checked out.


Yes...but you can't go back to air After running coil as it may scratch the inner side of the uppers.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

Noah...any idea how much the coil parts will cost to retrofit an air fork yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Here is where I wish I had a meme of Morpheus from The Matrix saying "What if I told you performance is not the number one driver for most manufacturers' product decisions?"


I think I learned that lesson back in MY'13 or so when RS switched their lineup from their Dual Air spring (independent pos/neg chambers) to Solo Air (self-equalizing via transfer port). They gave up the ability to really tune the spring and easy spacer-based travel adjust so that their forks would be simpler to set up and, more importantly, less easy for a novice/salesperson to set up really badly. And not just on the OEM-only SKUs or the lower-end RL versions - across the whole product stack.

So it's really refreshing to see a company like MRP catering to more discerning riders.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

marti163 said:


> Noah...any idea how much the coil parts will cost to retrofit an air fork yet?


Conversion parts (MSRP) $150
Springs $40
Total $190


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## maimed02 (Jul 25, 2014)

I just want to give a massive shout out to Noah from MRP.

I've been experiencing some real issues trying to get a hold of a Ribbon here in Australia as the distributors don't know the definition of customer service (or communication).

Rather than just grabbing a Fox 36 which would arrive the next day, I've persevered solely based on Noah's customer support here on the forum and through private messages.

Hoping to get my fork this weekend (hoping but not expecting) and then I intend to give a full write up to compare it to my previous experience on a pike and lyrik.


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## judd1980 (May 14, 2006)

Want to give a huge thank you to MRP. What everyone has said about their customer service is true. When I first received my fork the initial travel had significant friction. I chatted with MRP over email and they sent me a return UPS slip. The fork was put on the dyno and all wear parts including seals were replaced. My fork arrived to them on a Wednesday and I got it back on a Friday, awesome - fast service. The fork now is unbelievable. The travel is incredibly smooth and I absolutely love this fork! Thank you MRP!!!


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## trailbildr (Dec 8, 2004)

After a year on the original MRP Stage, two years on a Pike with FAST damper upgrade, I'm finally back on a MRP fork. I got a new Ribbon for my Enduro29 build (MRP posted a pic of it last week). I run a suspension-focused bike shop so we regularly deal with Ohlins, MRP, Fox/Marx, Push, RockShox, Manitou, etc. MRP is always a pleasure to deal with.

Now that I'm back on a Ribbon, I forgot just how good this stuff is. Damper with changes that you can feel, Ramp Control works, fork looks good, stiffness, light enough, decal options... I'm so happy to be back on a Ribbon.

We've sold a bunch of these and people are blown away. It's not hyperbole to say the product is life-changing. I can't recommend it highly enough. The faster you go, the better it feels.

If anyone is considering the fork, I can only tell you to raise your expectations. It *may* be the best fork ever made.

Enjoy.

mk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Conversion parts (MSRP) $150
> Springs $40
> Total $190


Awesome! Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

judd1980 said:


> Want to give a huge thank you to MRP. What everyone has said about their customer service is true. When I first received my fork the initial travel had significant friction. I chatted with MRP over email and they sent me a return UPS slip. The fork was put on the dyno and all wear parts including seals were replaced. My fork arrived to them on a Wednesday and I got it back on a Friday, awesome - fast service. The fork now is unbelievable. The travel is incredibly smooth and I absolutely love this fork! Thank you MRP!!!


I just got the same service experience! These guys are top notch and the fork is great!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Well, I just pulled the trigger on a Ribbon air this morning. I figured I'll try the air version and see how I get on as I can always switch to the coil later if I wish but couldn't go the other way.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

Hi, I saw couple questions regarding service manuals on this thread but did not find replys to that.. Are seals and damper rebuild kits available to everybody and can the fork be serviced by the user (i.e not fancy tools required) ?.. Im considering the ribbon coil ..


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

luisgutierod said:


> Hi, I saw couple questions regarding service manuals on this thread but did not find replys to that.. Are seals and damper rebuild kits available to everybody and can the fork be serviced by the user (i.e not fancy tools required) ?.. Im considering the ribbon coil ..


Sorry for that.

We have service manuals available, just shoot us an e-mail. This winter we are working on a establishing a new service-oriented file-sharing platform.

Seals and kits are available to anyone and everyone. The fork can be serviced by the user, but we do make specialty tools to ease the process.

Basic maintenance of the fork - like changing seals, lubing the air spring, etc. - is very straightforward. Being a sealed damper however, that process is a little more involved. Not that it requires factory service, but it's not as simple as lubing your chain, if you know what I mean. That service interval is 200 hours.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry for that.
> 
> We have service manuals available, just shoot us an e-mail. This winter we are working on a establishing a new service-oriented file-sharing platform.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I get it. Being totally open here, living in south america, we need to be smart choosing brands. I have had nothing but good experience on CaneCreek DB air CS, because it never failed on me.. amazing experience with an X-fusion sweep fork, because it never failed on me (although easier access to spares) then I moved to more supported brands in the area (the big two) and currently all my rear shocks are DVO, which are easily maintained / repaired with good access to parts. I'm definitively going to a Coil fork and will never go CC or Ohlins. Spare parts availability and service friendliness are a must for many of us down here...

cheers.
Luis


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

I'm being very tempted to upgrade too. Have an XFusion Trace set at 140mm at the moment on my Ibis Ripley LS. Not a bad fork but not great either. Looking for something a little plusher and better at small bump smoothing.

The decision as many face is to go with air or coil. Where I'm at is this:
- Performance: From what I read, looks like coil would "take the cake" as Noah puts it in terms of small bump performance. Yet the marketing has me thinking it's too much fork considering I'm not a bike park person and ride mostly x-country and trail.

- Travel: Ripley is recommended for 120-140mm. With coil at 140mm minimum, I'm at the top of the Ripley range where the air shock could be adjusted. RIght now, I'm riding my Ripley at 140mm and I think I prefer it to how it rode with 120mm fork. But the problem is that the coil has me locked in using it at 140.

- Weight: Don't care much about this. Easier and cheaper to shave off weight of me than my gear


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

adagioca said:


> Have an XFusion Trace set at 140mm at the moment on my Ibis Ripley LS. Not a bad fork but not great either. Looking for something a little plusher and better at small bump smoothing.


Do you have the RL2 or RC HLR damper in the Trace? My experience on my Sweep was that the RL2 had a lot of trouble moving enough oil in high-speed events and felt really harsh over repeated hits, rock chatter, braking bumps, etc. The HLR damper is vastly better in this regard, and you can order them for $200 from XF as a drop-in.

The other thing to consider is how long it's been since you replaced the main air spring piston seal. It's somehting that won't be solved with a fast lowers re-lube. I had one swell over time between teardowns and introduce a ton of stiction.

That can happen with any air spring, of course. There's a whole thread on the 36's harshness related to manufacturing tolerances/QC on the air spring piston head. There's some incentive for manufacturers to err on the side of tighter seal gland fits than necessary to ensure no leaky forks go out the door, but it means some air springs will feel like butter and some will have a lot of stiction.

The better way would be tighter controls in the manufacturing, or tighter QC and inspection (both of which add cost). It looks like MRP is better positioned to do that than the bigger players, with so much machining in-house. And they've shown a willingness to address just such an issue in this thread.

A benefit of coil is that you never have to worry about that again, because you're removing that dynamic seal.

All that said, you might be one of the only people running a coil fork on a Ripley. :rockon:


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

I do have the RL2 which now 3 years old. I've serviced it recently but only changed the oil and dust wipers. I'm also tempted to do the damper upgrade. There is even the newer Roughcut RCP damper that is a little simpler with 3 positions instead of the 16 clicks for low and high speed.

Still, much cheaper to spend $200 than a lot more but I wonder if it's a good investment to spend that much money on a 3 year old fork.

Thanks for all the info. Very informative.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

adagioca said:


> I do have the RL2 which now 3 years old. I've serviced it recently but only changed the oil and dust wipers. I'm also tempted to do the damper upgrade. There is even the newer Roughcut RCP damper that is a little simpler with 3 positions instead of the 16 clicks for low and high speed.
> 
> Still, much cheaper to spend $200 than a lot more but I wonder if it's a good investment to spend that much money on a 3 year old fork.
> 
> Thanks for all the info. Very informative.


We also make a Ramp Control cartridge for X-Fusion 34mm forks. This will help with air spring tuning - specifically tuning your plushness without compromising big-hit support.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

That's what I am talking about, these guys are on point.
You don't even realize that you have a problem but they already have the solution.. 

Odoslané z HTC One X pomocou Tapatalku


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

Just received my Ribbon 29" Air. Can't wait to get it on the bike and try it out this weekend.

Big thanks to DirtMerchant for the organizing it for me.


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

I had my first ride on my Ribbon air today. Installed the fork on a Mojo HD4. I played around a little with the air pressure and rode at 60 pos/65 neg, compression dial 4 clicks from full open and ramp cartridge at 6 clicks from open. Fork felt great, plush and supportive. I've been on a Pike and rode a Fox 36 RC2 last weekend, the Ribbon with very little setup felt better than either of those forks.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

How is it that no bike comes stock ribbon-equipped ? or perhaps?


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

romulin said:


> How is it that no bike comes stock ribbon-equipped ? or perhaps?


You can get them on guerrilla gravity bikes.

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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Just bought a ribbon air for my knolly endorphin 275. 

Super stoked to see how it feels coming off of a pike on the same bike.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

CDubz said:


> You can get them on guerrilla gravity bikes.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Pretty sure you can order a Canfield with a MRP fork too.


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

AOK said:


> Pretty sure you can order a Canfield with a MRP fork too.


Yes yes you can

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

I had an amazing ride on my Guerilla Gravity Megatrail v2 with a Ribbon today. I’ve had a pike, a sweep and a diamond on this bike and none of them are as good as the Ribbon. This thing is amazing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Noah, 

At 150lbs without gear, what spring would you recommend? That weight is right in between X-Soft and Soft.


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

Penny said:


> Noah,
> 
> At 150lbs without gear, what spring would you recommend? That weight is right in between X-Soft and Soft.


Well that depends on how much gear you wear...


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

That depends on when and where I'm riding. Some days, just a couple of lbs, some days, 10-15lbs.

X-soft and use some LSC and ramp control when weighed down?
or
Soft, but will it be open enough when I'm riding without a pack?


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

maimed02 said:


> I just want to give a massive shout out to Noah from MRP.
> 
> I've been experiencing some real issues trying to get a hold of a Ribbon here in Australia as the distributors don't know the definition of customer service (or communication).
> .


I'm from Australia too, I assumed id be using my local lbs with an account with the importer. But sounds like that might be an uphill struggle.
If you don't mind me asking, what problems did you have? And was the freight expensive to get it across?

thanks 
Ben


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Penny said:


> Noah,
> 
> At 150lbs without gear, what spring would you recommend? That weight is right in between X-Soft and Soft.


What wheelsize and travel? I assume you saw our chart on the webpage?

I'd probably go soft unless it's a 27.5" 170mm, then I'd go x-soft.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> What wheelsize and travel? I assume you saw our chart on the webpage?
> 
> I'd probably go soft unless it's a 27.5" 170mm, then I'd go x-soft.


I did. Sorry, 160mm 27.5". I guess I'll try the soft since it's included and go x-soft only if needed.


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## maimed02 (Jul 25, 2014)

B Rabbit said:


> I'm from Australia too, I assumed id be using my local lbs with an account with the importer. But sounds like that might be an uphill struggle.
> If you don't mind me asking, what problems did you have? And was the freight expensive to get it across?
> 
> thanks
> Ben


They were just completely unresponsive. It took 4 weeks until I actually got a price even. I would have to send 2-3 emails or 1-2 phone calls until they would actually answer very simple questions. Decided to give them the flick and go with an Australian supplier bike n brew instead who has been great! His phone number is on his website and he is very happy to chat. Have the coil ribbon on the way and can't wait to get it.

You only pay freight within Australian from bike n brew and that was like $30 to get it from Sydney to me.


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

Anyone received their Ribbon Coil yet?


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

maimed02 said:


> They were just completely unresponsive. It took 4 weeks until I actually got a price even. I would have to send 2-3 emails or 1-2 phone calls until they would actually answer very simple questions. Decided to give them the flick and go with an Australian supplier bike n brew instead who has been great! His phone number is on his website and he is very happy to chat. Have the coil ribbon on the way and can't wait to get it.
> 
> You only pay freight within Australian from bike n brew and that was like $30 to get it from Sydney to me.


Thanks for the reply!  
I saw this morning that bike and brew sell them, do you know if bike and brew actually import them directly themselves?


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

So, Noah, any plans for a 170mm 29er ribbon coil in the future?


Edited to add: 29er


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Sid Duffman said:


> So, Noah, any plans for a 170mm ribbon coil in the future?


Um........isn't the future now?


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

B Rabbit said:


> Um........isn't the future now?


Oops, I didn't specify: any plans for a 29er 170mm . . .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MX4U (Mar 8, 2010)

I made up my mind to get a Ribbon Coil next spring. I pretty much only ride jump lines, and lift / shuttle riding. However, found a good deal on Ribbon air. Though I think I will hold out for coil.

For those interested, check out Competitive cyclist. For black Friday/ cyber Monday, they are running %15 off, plus $50 off of $250. Ribbon air comes out to $740 shipped.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

MX4U said:


> I made up my mind to get a Ribbon Coil next spring. I pretty much only ride jump lines, and lift / shuttle riding. However, found a good deal on Ribbon air. Though I think I will hold out for coil.
> 
> For those interested, check out Competitive cyclist. For black Friday/ cyber Monday, they are running %15 off, plus $50 off of $250. Ribbon air comes out to $740 shipped.


Plus 8% on Active Junky - $680!


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

Just one more follow up. I have had my updated Ribbon for about a week now and MRP and Noah went above and beyond taking care of me and making sure I was happy. Fork feels great and was an absolute pleasure to work with. Seriously so stoked to have a ribbon (coil) on my bike and be riding a Colorado product. Thanks Noah and MRP you guys deserve all the accolades that have been coming your way! For anyone hesitant about getting one don't on the chance something is wrong you won't work with a better group to make sure your happy with your fork.


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

CDubz, so you got coil already? I guess that means they're shipping now?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

AOK said:


> Anyone received their Ribbon Coil yet?


Had mine for ages. 

They are shipping, BTW.


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## Yellowmenace (Mar 23, 2010)

CDubz said:


> Just one more follow up. I have had my updated Ribbon for about a week now and MRP and Noah went above and beyond taking care of me and making sure I was happy. Fork feels great and was an absolute pleasure to work with. Seriously so stoked to have a ribbon (coil) on my bike and be riding a Colorado product. Thanks Noah and MRP you guys deserve all the accolades that have been coming your way! For anyone hesitant about getting one don't on the chance something is wrong you won't work with a better group to make sure your happy with your fork.


After reading this thread it does make sense why I didn't have the "Love it feeling" pillows like my 1st mrp stages. Got mine about 3 weeks ago. My shop ordered it directly from MRP. Took it in this evening and the guys at the shop think there's definitely something wrong. I'm sure it's all gonna turn out fine! Btw the ribbon on my Yeti SB5.5c

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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So just got my ribbon installed on my knolly endorphin 27.5 with cane creek coil inline rear shock. 

No trail time but rode it around the neighborhood and boosted off some smaller jumps I could randomly find. 

Right now I’ve got it set with 85 psi in positive/ 95 psi in the negative for 210lbs. body weight. Sag at that pressure is 24% and that’s with 3 clicks LSC, 2 clicks ramp, and 17 clicks rebound turning counter clockwise. 

Anyway it feels pretty good honestly but does that seem like a lot of rebound to you guys? Again I haven’t ridden the trails yet so I’m sure that’ll help me tune it in but just curious from guys my weight what you’re running or if Noah could chime that’d be awesome too. 

Oh and it’s a 160mm and I’m and intermediate/aggressive rider. 

Thanks!


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

One more question. 

Do ribbons ship as 170mm then you have to lower? The box mine came in says 160mm but these stachions look really long and measure long but I haven’t checked where they bottom out at yet.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

CogHog said:


> One more question.
> 
> Do ribbons ship as 170mm then you have to lower? The box mine came in says 160mm but these stachions look really long and measure long but I haven't checked where they bottom out at yet.


There is more than 160mm exposed at that height. Check axle to crown measurement if you're unsure. I thought the same thing when I got mine.

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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

marti163 said:


> There is more than 160mm exposed at that height. Check axle to crown measurement if you're unsure. I thought the same thing when I got mine.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok cool thanks I will.

When riding it it felt normal and stand over feels the same they just look long.

I'll check the axle to crown though just in case.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Just checked it and it’s indeed a 160. 

She’s a monster though, in a good way!


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

CogHog said:


> So just got my ribbon installed on my knolly endorphin 27.5 with cane creek coil inline rear shock.
> 
> No trail time but rode it around the neighborhood and boosted off some smaller jumps I could randomly find.
> 
> ...


According to their air pressure chart, you should be closer to 9 clicks out rather than 17.

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...9f49af6c/1493403260843/Ribbon_Setup_Chart.pdf


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CogHog said:


> Anyway it feels pretty good honestly but does that seem like a lot of rebound to you guys? Again I haven't ridden the trails yet so I'm sure that'll help me tune it in but just curious from guys my weight what you're running or if Noah could chime that'd be awesome too.
> 
> Oh and it's a 160mm and I'm and intermediate/aggressive rider.
> 
> Thanks!


Did you turn the rebound completely "in," then count out 17 clicks counter-clockwise? It seems like it would be very fast at those pressures. But some folks like that feel.


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

It's much safer to start with a slow rebound rather than fast and adjust from there.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Did you turn the rebound completely "in," then count out 17 clicks counter-clockwise? It seems like it would be very fast at those pressures. But some folks like that feel.


I just wound it all the way out and it was really fast, turning to the - symbol I counted 17 clicks.

So out of curiousuty I turned it back towards the + 17 clicks then kept going for I think like 11 or 12 more clicks and it was super slow. So I'm back at 17 out of a possible 28 or 29 clicks and it feels good.

Am I missing something? These are pretty distinguishable clicks but I thought it only had 18 total clicks for rebound?


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Just checked again and there’s 28 total clicks of rebound. Of course one at most two could be me missing the click but that would still leave 26 total clicks, 8 more than I thought it was supposed to have. 

Of course I’m not complaining about more clicks, just curious if it’s a new rebound damper or what.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

CogHog said:


> Just checked again and there's 28 total clicks of rebound. Of course one at most two could be me missing the click but that would still leave 26 total clicks, 8 more than I thought it was supposed to have.
> 
> Of course I'm not complaining about more clicks, just curious if it's a new rebound damper or what.


Mine has way more than 18 clicks as well...hasn't seemed to pose any problems...just had to tune it by feel instead of by the charts. Meant to ask about it a while back but got distracted by all the fun I'm having on my bike with this fork on it!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CogHog said:


> Of course I'm not complaining about more clicks, just curious if it's a new rebound damper or what.


Just sounds like you have a few extra clicks at the end, nothing to worry about. It's always the case that we count going counter-clockwise from fully closed (max damping). That's where our suggested ranges come from. The max end of the range does not vary, but the minimum end does. You may be able to back it out more than 20 clicks, but that isn't likely changing anything in regards to flow (rebound speed). When I setup a fork for myself, I turn the knob to max, then dial back 10 clicks, then evaluate. I'm usually happy with 10-13 clicks out on either of my forks.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Just sounds like you have a few extra clicks at the end, nothing to worry about. It's always the case that we count going counter-clockwise from fully closed (max damping). That's where our suggested ranges come from. The max end of the range does not vary, but the minimum end does. You may be able to back it out more than 20 clicks, but that isn't likely changing anything in regards to flow (rebound speed). When I setup a fork for myself, I turn the knob to max, then dial back 10 clicks, then evaluate. I'm usually happy with 10-13 clicks out on either of my forks.


Ah ok.

Well from max damping, slowest rebound, I'm actually at 11 clicks then.

As long as the fork is ok and no issues, which sounds like it isn't, then it's a moot point since I usually go for feel anyways and the damper is definitely working.

Thanks all, can't wait to get some trail time tomorrow on this gem!


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

CogHog said:


> Ah ok.
> 
> Well from max damping, slowest rebound, I'm actually at 11 clicks then.
> 
> ...


Looking forward to that ride report! Can it keep up with the CCDB Coil IL?!


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

So preliminary first ride report, this thing is the real deal. 

Stiff, composed, and holy crap it’s plush. By far the best front end on a bike I’ve felt. Better than my pike, Mattoc, and xfusion I’ve owned. 

It’s not 100% dialed in but I’d say it’s prob 90% there. Ran it down some flow lines with tables as well as some decently gnarly rock gardens and fast loose single track. Tried to put it through a variety of terrain and it felt amazing through everything. 

I’ve really got no negatives to even mention at this point. It’s everything I had wished my pike was. Supple on top with good mid and end stroke support and no notchiness or harshness in the stroke. 

It’s still very much the honeymoon phase but being as objective as I can be, I’m blown away. 

Oh and it def kept up with my coil which my pike was never able to do and why I wanted to switch. I thought about going coil eventually but right now I’m not sure it’s actually necessary.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

marti163 said:


> I had an amazing ride on my Guerilla Gravity Megatrail v2 with a Ribbon today. I've had a pike, a sweep and a diamond on this bike and none of them are as good as the Ribbon. This thing is amazing!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Care to do a quick compare-o of the 4? Specifically interested in the DVO vs MRP.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

Curious about conversion options w/ accompanying travel change. 

I’m close to buying a Ribbon air for my Trail Pistol, setting at 140 or 150. Should I use the fork on a longer 29er in the future, can I go to coil and 160? Or if I wanted to go coil 140 right now, can one adjust to another length later, or is that just an air thing?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Just picked up the Ribbon Coil conversion at MRP. Asked about travel adjust as well, got the factory tour - cool. They went over the coil internals to show what's changed. Travel adjust is a threaded rod with a lock nut. Basically infinite adjustment between 140 and 160, pretty neat. Ride pending.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

kragu said:


> Curious about conversion options w/ accompanying travel change.
> 
> I'm close to buying a Ribbon air for my Trail Pistol, setting at 140 or 150. Should I use the fork on a longer 29er in the future, can I go to coil and 160? Or if I wanted to go coil 140 right now, can one adjust to another length later, or is that just an air thing?


I believe that the 29er 160 has a longer damper...so you'd want to start with that fork and space it down to 140.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

kragu said:


> Care to do a quick compare-o of the 4? Specifically interested in the DVO vs MRP.


The DVO Diamond was the best fork I'd ridden prior to the Ribbon. It took some work to get it where I wanted it but I ended up very familiar with the damper internals and shim stack. Their customer service is also top notch and any issues I had were handled extremely quickly by Ronnie. Biggest two reasons I moved away from the diamond were tire clearance (I had the non boost diamond), and weight. Otherwise that would have been my fork for a lot longer.

After riding the Ribbon for awhile I definitely prefer the feel I can get from the air spring with the independently adjustable pos and neg air springs. The OTT on the diamond is helpful but the Ribbon with ramp control and fulfill is better.

I'm finding myself riding rough sections faster on the Ribbon than I have
on any of the other forks as it rides nice a high in the travel without feeling like I'm missing any plushness or traction. I've also upped my air pressure a bit beyond recommended for my weight and it's still not harsh, just more supportive and resists diving better at high speed.

Last thing I've noticed with the ribbon is that it feels good at a wider range of settings than the Diamond did. With the diamond I'd sometimes ride a trail with an extra click or two of rebound and have the fork suddenly feel pretty terrible until I took it back out. Same thing with air pressure settings. The Ribbon feels good anywhere plus or minus 5 clicks of rebound from my preferred settings and plus or minus 10 PSI.

Both are great companies and the forks are both good but I'm getting more performance with more tire clearance at a lower weight with the Ribbon.


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## kragu (Jun 14, 2011)

marti163 said:


> The DVO Diamond was the best fork I'd ridden prior to the Ribbon. It took some work to get it where I wanted it but I ended up very familiar with the damper internals and shim stack. Their customer service is also top notch and any issues I had were handled extremely quickly by Ronnie. Biggest two reasons I moved away from the diamond were tire clearance (I had the non boost diamond), and weight. Otherwise that would have been my fork for a lot longer.
> 
> After riding the Ribbon for awhile I definitely prefer the feel I can get from the air spring with the independently adjustable pos and neg air springs. The OTT on the diamond is helpful but the Ribbon with ramp control and fulfill is better.
> 
> ...


Very helpful perspective. Thanks!


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

kragu said:


> Curious about conversion options w/ accompanying travel change.
> 
> I'm close to buying a Ribbon air for my Trail Pistol, setting at 140 or 150. Should I use the fork on a longer 29er in the future, can I go to coil and 160? Or if I wanted to go coil 140 right now, can one adjust to another length later, or is that just an air thing?


Good question, MRP uses two damper lengths for the 27.5/29" Ribbon Air. 29" air forks ordered at 140mm and 150mm come with the longer tube capable of 160mm. 29" Forks ordered at 130mm or below can only be raised to 150mm.

All 29" Ribbon Coil forks are internally adjustable from 140-160mm.


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## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Looking forward to more coil reviews as I wait patiently for mine. Anyone else converted to coil from air?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Oh yeah!
Only one ride, amazing feel out of the box. Worthy rival to the Ohlins coil fork but more adjustable, top out ramp control, and 160gms lighter.
Coil for life!


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

TheCanary said:


> Oh yeah!
> Only one ride, amazing feel out of the box. Worthy rival to the Ohlins coil fork but more adjustable, top out ramp control, and 160gms lighter.
> Coil for life!


Comparison to air?


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## CDubz (Mar 25, 2008)

killjoyken said:


> Looking forward to more coil reviews as I wait patiently for mine. Anyone else converted to coil from air?


I did, it's rad. So active in rough stuff, it's amazing. I know not a lot of substance in this post but I'm at work so I'll try to give more feedback later. Just know for rough stuff it feels amazing. If the coil feel is your thing you won't be disappointed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Awesome. Keep them coming. Good to hear that the Ribbon beats the Ohlins coil. I was considering it but was worried about ease of repairs and parts availability. 

Honestly, it was this thread and Noah's support that sold me on the Ribbon.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Penny said:


> Comparison to air?


Somewhat personal preference, I prefer the feel of coil forks, glad to see some new options available. Usual coil trade-offs are mitigated (to favor coil) by the Ribbon design - Less weight penalty and Ramp control to help with full compression support. Still need more riding to see how the coil and damper match up, initial ride felt great, and more time to push the fork and understand how much support the lower leg Ramp control provides. IME, air can't match the chattery/chundery suppleness and mid stroke support of a good coil fork, MRP had stepped up control and stiffness with the chassis design of the Ribbon and the coil takes the traction and feel to the next level.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Penny said:


> Comparison to air?





killjoyken said:


> Awesome. Keep them coming. Good to hear that the Ribbon beats the Ohlins coil. I was considering it but was worried about ease of repairs and parts availability.
> 
> Honestly, it was this thread and Noah's support that sold me on the Ribbon.


Wouldn't say beats the Ohlins after one ride.
RXF 36 coil is still my gold standard for fork stiffness and feel, for the Ribbon to be a contender after one ride says a lot. No negatives on the first outing, definitely prefer it to the Ribbon air. MRP and Ohlins have a different philosophy about dampers, at this point I like what MRP has done to allow the user a lot of adjustability. The lower leg Ramp control is an elegant solution to harsh bottom out, yet to really see how well it works. Running the Ribbon on my trail bike and, with the lighter weight and great coil feel, it's a perfect match.
Definitely a winner so far. :thumbsup:


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## kenwood72 (Sep 16, 2014)

stiffness? one review i read compared it to a pike, i need a coild but at 215 and 170mm of travvel also want a very stiff chassis.


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

For MRP the Stage is more comparable to the Pike with the Ribbon being more in the Lyrik/F36 class. Only ridden it up to 150 travel though. RXF 36 still the best IME at going where you point it.
Coil's suppleness improves tracking over air on otherwise similar forks.


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## Mike Nagle (Jul 29, 2015)

So stoked to see a new dual air fork!


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

Are there any video instructions for removing and installing different weight springs in the MRP Ribbon coil? Mine is arriving tomorrow and I will need to swap out for the light spring. Also, what tools are required? Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

retswen said:


> Are there any video instructions for removing and installing different weight springs in the MRP Ribbon coil? Mine is arriving tomorrow and I will need to swap out for the light spring. Also, what tools are required? Thanks!


I'm sorry, we don't have a video yet. Spring swap instructions are included in the owner's manual.

You'll need:

• 1.5mm hex
• 3mm hex
• 10mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 26mm wrench (or adjustable wrench)
• Snap ring pliers
• Rubber mallet
• Cassette removal rool

Call us if you have any questions 970-241-3518


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

Another ride on the ribbon today and continue to be blown away. 

This thing puts my pike to shame!


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## maimed02 (Jul 25, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm sorry, we don't have a video yet. Spring swap instructions are included in the owner's manual.
> 
> You'll need:
> 
> ...


Yay, great to see there are no special tools on this list. My Ribbon Coil arrives on Monday. So Keen!


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

I was pro-active and requested the soft spring installed when I ordered through Dirt Merchants in Colorado. Ethan, the owner, is awesome and had it done. Just got mine and will be testing it out this weekend!


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## kenwood72 (Sep 16, 2014)

Noah, here is where i am at, have the 170 lyric, dont like it. I can either get a mod, push or avy, or sell it and buy your fork. i am 215 and have always wanted to go back to a coil but this is a new product and since i cant test it i have a little trepidation, how will it compare to my lyric as far as stiffness and with the 2mm offset difference mean aything, i assume not. anything else you can add?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kenwood72 said:


> Noah, here is where i am at, have the 170 lyric, dont like it. I can either get a mod, push or avy, or sell it and buy your fork. i am 215 and have always wanted to go back to a coil but this is a new product and since i cant test it i have a little trepidation, how will it compare to my lyric as far as stiffness and with the 2mm offset difference mean aything, i assume not. anything else you can add?


Howdy! Pretty hard to comment on stiffness vs. a Lyrik. Best I can do is suggest you read the feedback of others in that regard. I haven't heard anyone knock the Ribbon in that department. We have plenty of big guys as test riders and even as engineers.

As far as offset, no, you will not notice a 2mm difference. I promise. I can definitely feel 10mm. I can feel 5mm too, but subtly. 2mm? No way.

Cheers!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Okay guys, I just bought a GG Trail Pistol (130mm rear travel "Pistola" version) and it has an MRP Ribbon (air) set at 150mm. I plan to drop it back to 140mm.

That said, I am 210# geared up and ready to ride. According to the chart I should start at 95psi Positive and 103psi Negative and 8 clicks out on Rebound. Since it is not listed on the chart, I will assume to start with the Ramp Control at 8 clicks (mid way)?

Can anyone in my weight range recommend is this is truly a good start point or if you have found better settings? Also, can you recommend a better staring point on the Ramp than 8 clicks?


----------



## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

retswen said:


> Are there any video instructions for removing and installing different weight springs in the MRP Ribbon coil? Mine is arriving tomorrow and I will need to swap out for the light spring. Also, what tools are required? Thanks!


I swapped the spring out on the Ribbon coil, it is fairly straight forward, not got to ride the bike yet hopefully this weekend.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

kenwood72 said:


> Noah, here is where i am at, have the 170 lyric, dont like it. I can either get a mod, push or avy, or sell it and buy your fork. i am 215 and have always wanted to go back to a coil but this is a new product and since i cant test it i have a little trepidation, how will it compare to my lyric as far as stiffness and with the 2mm offset difference mean aything, i assume not. anything else you can add?


I'm 210 now myself and built burly, former college fullback, and I haven't noticed any stiffness issues with my ribbon air. I've got no time on a Lyrik but the ribbon is def more stiff than my pike was and much much more controlled in its stroke.

I've only got 3 rides on the ribbon, so factor that in, but so far this is light years ahead of the pike, mattoc, and xfusion I've ridden.


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## kenwood72 (Sep 16, 2014)

CogHog said:


> I'm 210 now myself and built burly, former college fullback, and I haven't noticed any stiffness issues with my ribbon air. I've got no time on a Lyrik but the ribbon is def more stiff than my pike was and much much more controlled in its stroke.
> 
> I've only got 3 rides on the ribbon, so factor that in, but so far this is light years ahead of the pike, mattoc, and xfusion I've ridden.


thanks, appreciate the feedback, honeslty the issues noted in this thread make me question the fork but on the other hand i want to try it. i guess if my lyric sells i will go this route if not acs 3 it is. stinks to simply have to go by internet reviews but not much more i can do.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Can anyone in my weight range recommend is this is truly a good start point or if you have found better settings? Also, can you recommend a better staring point on the Ramp than 8 clicks?


There's no one "appropriate" Ramp Control setting for a given rider weight. It's gonna come down to what your trails are like, your riding style, speed, etc. But, I usually recommend people start at 0 or 8 / none or half. From there I suggest tuning 4 clicks at a time.

Based on the bike and travel, I'd venture to guess you'll settle in the 8-12 range.


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## CogHog (Jul 11, 2014)

kenwood72 said:


> thanks, appreciate the feedback, honeslty the issues noted in this thread make me question the fork but on the other hand i want to try it. i guess if my lyric sells i will go this route if not acs 3 it is. stinks to simply have to go by internet reviews but not much more i can do.


I bought mine sight unseen as well based off the good reviews I'd read.

If by issues you mean the harshness people mentioned, I'm not sure those are actually valid anymore. Before the ribbon the plushest fork I'd felt was my mattoc, but for me it didn't feel as stiff as my pike. The pike was decently plush without tokens but then it dove like crazy into its travel and made my bike feel sketchy. So that made me add tokens to help but then I lost the off top sensitivity.

With the ribbon so far it feels like my mattoc and pike had a baby that started lifting weights. It feels burlier than both to me but with the plushness of the mattoc while still maintaining a nice mid and end stroke.

It just doesn't feel notchy and I don't really feel the ramp up even though I know it is. I hit a 6 footer yesterday at speed and still only used 145mm out of the full 160mm. No dive and no harsh ramp, just smooth.

Haven't had the chance to take it off anything bigger yet but plan to soon once it's totally dialed in.

Hope that helps.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*This is cool...*

Check this out...

"*Why it's nominated: *

With proven performance, the wide availability of spare parts, and plenty of mechanics who know how to perform a service, there's certainly some sound thinking in only considering the 'Big Three' suspension companies when it's time to look at a new fork. Or, at least that was sound thinking. Having spent the better part of a year on MRP's new Ribbon fork, I've become convinced that the relatively small Colorado company can compete in a hard-fought category against brands that have much more marketing muscle and development dough.

The $989 USD Ribbon is able to be many different forks for different riders, with its travel adjustable in 5mm or 10mm increments between 140mm to 170mm for the 27.5'' chassis, or 120mm to 160mm for the 29er fork that I've been riding. Both the positive and negative springs can be tinkered with to tune the action, and the clever Ramp Control Cartridge offers speed-sensitive ending-stroke control with adjustable bottom-out, whereas the token system used by the competition is position sensitive. But it's in the other leg where the magic happens, I believe, with a twin-tube damper that manages to always feel on-point regardless of what you're running into or where the fork is in its stroke. Oh, and now you can even get the Ribbon with a coil spring inside of it if that's what you're into. "


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

CogHog said:


> I bought mine sight unseen as well based off the good reviews I'd read.
> 
> If by issues you mean the harshness people mentioned, I'm not sure those are actually valid anymore. Before the ribbon the plushest fork I'd felt was my mattoc, but for me it didn't feel as stiff as my pike. The pike was decently plush without tokens but then it dove like crazy into its travel and made my bike feel sketchy. So that made me add tokens to help but then I lost the off top sensitivity.
> 
> ...


I agree. I've found myself using less travel on the average ride, but for big hits, it will use it and not feel harsh. Off the top, it's every bit as plush as the Pike and Lyrik.


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm sorry, we don't have a video yet. Spring swap instructions are included in the owner's manual.
> 
> You'll need:
> 
> ...


I got the fork yesterday. Almost went otb testing with the medium spring just messing around. The instruction manual has some tools and supplies required that differ from your list. I just want to make sure I understand everything before I open this thing up:

Tools Required:
1.5mm hex
3mm hex
10mm wrench
15mm wrench
26mm wrench
Snap ring pliers
Rebound Removal tool (optional)
Rubber mallet

Supplies Required:
30cc of 5-10wt fork oil
Slick Honey Grease (or equivalent)(included with fork)

The main differences is there is no mention of a cassette removal tool in the manual (I own one). Also it states that oil is required for spring changes, but does not give instructions on how much to add to each side. Also, what oil do you guys use or recommend. Thank you for taking a look when you get a chance.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

retswen said:


> I got the fork yesterday. Almost went otb testing with the medium spring just messing around. The instruction manual has some tools and supplies required that differ from your list. I just want to make sure I understand everything before I open this thing up:
> 
> Tools Required:
> 1.5mm hex
> ...


The owners Manual that comes with the fork has the oil volume and weight 15cc per leg & between 5 and 10 wt. no need for a cassette as the spring comes out from the bottom of the stantion, you do need circlip pliers.

I think if you are very carefull and don't loose any oil you are good to go, otherwise just empty and refill. any good quality suspension fluid will do


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## budgie (May 14, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Check this out...


Yes, that IS cool! Congrats: you guys deserve it. You know what else would be cool? In 2018 Getting nominated for a REAR shock. Do it. DO IT!!!!


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

budgie said:


> Yes, that IS cool! Congrats: you guys deserve it. You know what else would be cool? In 2018 Getting nominated for a REAR *COIL* shock. Do it. DO IT!!!!


Fixed it!


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

I got my spring swapped. Here are a few observations:

15mm and 26mm are not required unless you change travel.
Snap ring pliers are a must. I dropped the lowers and thought I could get by, but I had to stop and go to the hardware store to get the pliers to continue.
I weight about 155 and if I were any lighter, I would highly consider the extra soft spring (27.5, 170mm travel). 

I only got a quick jaunt around the neighborhood so far, but so far so good.


----------



## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

So, how are people getting on with the Ribbon Coil? Will it blow my mind to the tune of $1400AUD over a pike?


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

coloRADo.

I just received my Ribbon coil. I'll be installing it tonight and giving it a good ride during the weekend.

So far it looks great.


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## SyT (Jul 27, 2005)

Are the spring rates and dimensions listed anywhere?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Couple more rides with the coil. Definitely one of the best forks I've been on. Compared to the Ohlins definitely a livelier fork, more supple and active while still giving that great coil midstroke support and feel. Even though it's more supple, it's not busy and gives great traction through the roots and rocks.
Have the ramp set about halfway, so far nothing spiky, using all the travel and haven't bottomed harshly on medium jumps and drops.
Running 150mm travel with the green spring at about #185 RTR and not looking for more support yet.


----------



## momanmatt (Jul 26, 2013)

Hey Canary,

I'm currently running a pike at 160mm which was a carryover from my following to my wreckoning. Thinking of beefing things up and going Lyrik or Fox 36 but your coil love has got me interested.

As you seem to have tried lots of forks could you give me a quick top 5 list and why and why not you'd choose it.

Much appreciated


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SyT said:


> Are the spring rates and dimensions listed anywhere?


We have a chart on our website here.

I'm getting the specifics dimensions and rates at the moment...hold.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

just ordered a 170mm ribbon coil. 

Better blow my pantys off


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## ScottW (Jan 16, 2004)

Penny said:


> I agree. I've found myself using less travel on the average ride, but for big hits, it will use it and not feel harsh. Off the top, it's every bit as plush as the Pike and Lyrik.


I've noticed this as well on my Ribbon air. Even though I use less total travel on a normal ride the fork never feels harsh. I can also get full travel on bigger drops, the fork just uses its travel well and has great midstroke support.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

B Rabbit said:


> just ordered a 170mm ribbon coil.
> 
> Better blow my pantys off


For sure, let us know! I'm new to the coil feel and performance but it would be hard to go back.



momanmatt said:


> Hey Canary,
> 
> I'm currently running a pike at 160mm which was a carryover from my following to my wreckoning. Thinking of beefing things up and going Lyrik or Fox 36 but your coil love has got me interested.
> 
> ...


PM sent.


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

May have missed it - but sag with the coil - what seems to be the best starting point?


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> May have missed it - but sag with the coil - what seems to be the best starting point?


I personally like about 20%. With the coil spring being more linear, much more than that and the fork will be to susceptible to dive. But if you're running the 170mm, you may want more like 25%. Mine is 140mm, I'd describe its feel as taught, but active - sporty. At ~170lbs. I get to 20% with a medium spring and 6 turns of preload (and no additional preload spacer).

I like to set it in a standing, aggressive position. Much sag while you are seated and upright will likely feel loosey-goosey when you're descending at speed.

Fine tune your sag/ride height with preload. If you can't get where you want to be, go up or down in spring rate.


----------



## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I took my first ride on the new Ribbon coil last night. It blows the pike RCT3 it replaced out of the water. I'm looking forward to a proper ride on it this weekend though.

Super stoked on it!


----------



## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Guess what fork takes Suspension product of the year on pinkbike?

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/pinkbike-awards-suspension-product-of-the-year-2017-winner.html


----------



## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Guess what fork takes Suspension product of the year on pinkbike?
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/pinkbike-awards-suspension-product-of-the-year-2017-winner.html


I always say that MRP is the best kept secret in suspension. Hopefully they aren't a secret any more.

My new Ribbon coil should arrive tomorrow.

Edit : Congrats to the folks at MRP!


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

CharacterZero said:


> Looking forward to that ride report! Can it keep up with the CCDB Coil IL?!


0

The Ribbon coil is now on the top of my list for my next fork.

Would love something that can keep up with the Inline coil on the back of my Knolly.

Going to read through this thread and give them a ring with a few questions...

I'm interested how user friendly is a full service on the fork.

Would like to know a bit more about their Ramp control/HSC damper. Can any one explain this one to me? Per the manual it uses air flow damping, which is something I'm not familiar with in a fork.


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Ribbon Coil and CC Inline coil have been the most balanced, and best, suspension I've ran on my trail bike. They compliment each other perfectly, have plenty of adjustability to tune from plow to poppy, and are the lightest high performance coil options available.
For a bigger bike I'd think about switching to a piggy back shock but the Ribbon would have no problem keeping up.


----------



## kenwood72 (Sep 16, 2014)

How is everyone getting along without an HSC adjustment. I understand the ramp up adjustment but that doesnt seem to be the same as HSC. What I kinda envision is this linear fork that all of the suddent becomes progressive? I may be wrong but looking for some feedbak, Noah your thoughts?


----------



## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

Ramp control its not speed sensitive as HSC but volume sensitive. This means when you hit big object/hard landing and high volume air flow is restricted by hole, this creates resistance.

I may be wrong


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

kenwood72 said:


> How is everyone getting along without an HSC adjustment. I understand the ramp up adjustment but that doesnt seem to be the same as HSC. What I kinda envision is this linear fork that all of the suddent becomes progressive? I may be wrong but looking for some feedbak, Noah your thoughts?


Yeah. Would like to hear more on this. Its the only thing that doesn't set well with me on the fork. Gotta' wrap my head around that part before pulling the trigger.

Otherwise, from what I read the coil Ribbon looks great.


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Make no bones about it. Coil. Ribbon. I used about 110 m max of the 160 total. Never had a fork experience like it. Smooth. Take the best fork you've ever owned and eliminate the bad behaviors or quirks. Obviously need to tune it further to get at least about 140-ish but wow. Just wow.



Miker J said:


> Yeah. Would like to hear more on this. Its the only thing that doesn't set well with me on the fork. Gotta' wrap my head around that part before pulling the trigger.
> 
> Otherwise, from what I read the coil Ribbon looks great.


----------



## momanmatt (Jul 26, 2013)

How is the stiffness of the ribbon? As stiff as the 36 or lyrik or more comparable to a pike?

Or what else would you compare it to? So close to pulling the trigger on a ribbon coil


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Stiffer than a Fox 36. Lyrik - don't know firsthand - but Ribbon is well stiffer than a pike.

The chassis/strucutre of both the Ribbon and CC Helm are stiffer than a 36


----------



## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

kamper11 said:


> Stiffer than a Fox 36. Lyrik - don't know firsthand - but Ribbon is well stiffer than a pike.
> 
> The chassis/strucutre of both the Ribbon and CC Helm are stiffer than a 36


Which 36 lowers do you mean in that comparison - pinch-bolt 15/20 TA or the QR15?


----------



## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

lazarus2405 said:


> Which 36 lowers do you mean in that comparison - pinch-bolt 15/20 TA or the QR15?


Both the 36 and Ribbon are pretty stiff, it's a little subjective to tell the difference. It's even more subjective to compare with the 2 clamp options.

At that point rim stiffness and spoke tension likely are more noticeable.


----------



## OldHouseMan (Dec 7, 2006)

How difficult is it to adjust the travel on the 27.5 coil Ribbon? Is it something that could easily be done the night before a ride?


----------



## retswen (May 13, 2014)

OldHouseMan said:


> How difficult is it to adjust the travel on the 27.5 coil Ribbon? Is it something that could easily be done the night before a ride?


I have swapped my spring out twice now (medium > light > very light). Dropping the lowers requires a 1.5mm hex and a 10mm wrench. From there, removing the coil shaft requires circlip pliers. From there, you just need the 15mm and 26mm wrenches to access the part where you change the travel. The hardest part is not having your lowers oil spill everywhere and getting the circlip back on. The whole process should take 15 minutes.


----------



## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

so, going back to previous discussions, the ribbon coil has ramp control, LSC + rebound. Why is this enough for you guys at MRP ? is it because coil does not benefit that much from HSC when paired with the Ramp control ?


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

luisgutierod said:


> so, going back to previous discussions, the ribbon coil has ramp control, LSC + rebound. Why is this enough for you guys at MRP ? is it because coil does not benefit that much from HSC when paired with the Ramp control ?


Inquiring minds want to know.


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

this post makes me ask the question - how much do weigh - riding weight? What travel are you running? What made you go Light to very light?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## retswen (May 13, 2014)

kamper11 said:


> this post makes me ask the question - how much do weigh - riding weight? What travel are you running? What made you go Light to very light?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


The trails were closed today so I didn't get a proper trail ride, but here is what I have so far as a preview:

1. The better boost adapter kit from MRP is great. I have the one for a Hope Pro 2 evo front. No need to modify the wheel in any way.
2. I am at 155 lbs with riding gear. The medium spring was basically a full rigid for me. The light spring was very plush, but I don't think I would ever bottom out even with ramp control dialed all the way back. This is why I opted for the very light spring. I can bottom this out, but now ramp control is actually useful. I am at about 23% sag with no preload at 155 lbs. I am running 170mm of travel.


----------



## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

thanks - helpful as i work thru my setup!


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

Got the first shakedown run on my coil yesterday and I'm ready for a softer spring. At 185lbs and 160mm I figured the medium spring would be perfect, but it was a little too firm for my taste. Unfortunately I didn't get to test in Santa Cruz but there were enough jumps and rock gardens on my local trails to get a good idea.

I ride an Ibis HD3 with a Works -1.5 headset (65 headangle) and a Fox X2. The fork was setup with 0 compression, 0 preload, 0 ramp control and 9 rebound. Out of the box I only had 15% sag, but it quickly settled to 20% into the ride. The fork felt very controlled and stiff. Tons of traction. Stayed high in the travel with very little dive under braking. If I was younger and racing this setup would be perfect.

But.....I want to see if a softer spring will take away some of the feedback from the rock gardens. Even with the medium spring it's world's better than Pike it's replacing. The Pike would either beat my hands to death or blow through it's travel, even with a brand new damper.

So far I'm loving this fork!


----------



## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

killjoyken said:


> Got the first shakedown run on my coil yesterday and I'm ready for a softer spring. At 185lbs and 160mm I figured the medium spring would be perfect, but it was a little too firm for my taste. Unfortunately I didn't get to test in Santa Cruz but there were enough jumps and rock gardens on my local trails to get a good idea.
> 
> I ride an Ibis HD3 with a Works -1.5 headset (65 headangle) and a Fox X2. The fork was setup with 0 compression, 0 preload, 0 ramp control and 9 rebound. Out of the box I only had 15% sag, but it quickly settled to 20% into the ride. The fork felt very controlled and stiff. Tons of traction. Stayed high in the travel with very little dive under braking. If I was younger and racing this setup would be perfect.
> 
> ...


Happy to see this report since I ride similar terrain (I ride Coe mostly but I also go to Rancho Canada). Looking to replace an XFusion Trace on an Ibis Ripley LS. Still on the fence between air and coil. Not so much concern about weight but just seems like coil would be overkill an Ibis Ripley. Yet, looks like it provides an all-around smother feel. So waiting for the jury to get out there...


----------



## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

I think coil forks have as much or more benefit for a trail bike than a big hit bike. Traction and comfort with coil through mid travel is unmatched. With the reasonable weight of the Ribbon coil it's a no brainer.


----------



## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

adagioca said:


> Happy to see this report since I ride similar terrain (I ride Coe mostly but I also go to Rancho Canada). Looking to replace an XFusion Trace on an Ibis Ripley LS. Still on the fence between air and coil. Not so much concern about weight but just seems like coil would be overkill an Ibis Ripley. Yet, looks like it provides an all-around smother feel. So waiting for the jury to get out there...


I'm on a Ripley LS, and I'm upgrading my Ribbon to the coil. The Ripley with big tires, 942 rims is definitely more trail bike than XC bike, so I think the coil will be a good match.


----------



## killjoyken (Jun 12, 2009)

adagioca said:


> Happy to see this report since I ride similar terrain (I ride Coe mostly but I also go to Rancho Canada). Looking to replace an XFusion Trace on an Ibis Ripley LS. Still on the fence between air and coil. Not so much concern about weight but just seems like coil would be overkill an Ibis Ripley. Yet, looks like it provides an all-around smother feel. So waiting for the jury to get out there...


Yeah, Rancho is my favorite local spot. Not super technical, but since it's always so empty you can really bomb the trails. You can always get the Ribbon Air first and switch to coil later. I was planning on doing that but thought "screw it" and went coil.

I just swapped in the soft spring and sag is exactly 25%. Perfect. Can't wait til next weekend!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

TheCanary said:


> I think coil forks have as much or more benefit for a trail bike than a big hit bike. Traction and comfort with coil through mid travel is unmatched. With the reasonable weight of the Ribbon coil it's a no brainer.


Coiled mid-travel bikes are the bomb! I'm trying to concoct a way to make a coil rear shock play well with my Switchblade - Pivot strongly discourages coil rear shocks on a lot of their bikes because they rely on the inherent progression of an air-spring. My 140mm Ribbon Coil is fantastic on the bike, helping to keep it low and the handling tight without sacrificing suspension performance.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SyT said:


> Are the spring rates and dimensions listed anywhere?


*Ribbon Coil Spring Dimensions and Rates*
Free Length: 317.5mm (+/- 2.5mm) / 12.5" (+/- .1")
Outer Diameter: 30.1mm / 1.2"
Rate in N/mm (+/- 7%): X-Soft 5.5, Soft 6.9, Medium 8.2, Firm 9.6, X-Firm 10.5
Rate in lbs/in (+/- 7%): X-Soft 31, Soft 39, Medium 47, Firm 55, X-Firm 60


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Yeah. Would like to hear more on this. Its the only thing that doesn't set well with me on the fork. Gotta' wrap my head around that part before pulling the trigger.
> 
> Otherwise, from what I read the coil Ribbon looks great.


Ramp Control has been universally praised since it's introduction in the Stage fork a few years ago. There are quite a few reviews out there explaining its function and performance, but here is the most recent:

Singletrack Ramp Control Cartridge Review

Now, its architecture in the Ribbon Coil is different than in the air models or as utilized in the standalone upgrade product for other forks, but the concept is the same.

Simplistically, it is an adjustment to the ease or difficulty of ambient air in the lowers to pass into the spring-side stanchion. By restricting that flow, you get a secondary spring effect as that air volume is compressed. Thus, it _adds_ to the bottom-out resistance.

Make sense?


----------



## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> Ramp Control has been universally praised since it's introduction in the Stage fork a few years ago. There are quite a few reviews out there explaining its function and performance, but here is the most recent:
> 
> Singletrack Ramp Control Cartridge Review
> 
> ...


Makes sense. Thanks, and that review was a good read.

I can easily understand the added air spring concept to prevent bottom out. Also, I presume as the air flows through tiny "ports" that is creating a HSC damping effect - correct me if I'm wrong.

Couldn't high pressure air going into the stanchion lead to popping dust seals? Though this is something I'm sure you guys have addressed.

Axel to crown. 562mm on the 275 at 170 travel. It's safe to assume at 150 the a2c is 542?

As I'm in need of a new fork for the 2018 season the Ribbon coil could not have come along at a better time. Was debating on staying with the Pike (3 have treated me well, mostly), possible Avy cart upgrade, or going to a 36. Since I'm a big fan of the coil feel and ease of doing my own maintenance (vs a Charge Damper rebuild), the Ribbon looks pretty near perfect.

Saving my pennies.

Thanks again.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Agree...*



NoahColorado said:


> Coiled mid-travel bikes are the bomb! I'm trying to concoct a way to make a coil rear shock play well with my Switchblade - Pivot strongly discourages coil rear shocks on a lot of their bikes because they rely on the inherent progression of an air-spring. My 140mm Ribbon Coil is fantastic on the bike, helping to keep it low and the handling tight without sacrificing suspension performance.


Big Pivot fan here but I've wanted to move back to coil on my trail bike for several years now and Pivots' leverage ratio/curves just don't play well with coils.

Last bike I built up was in no small way based on its leverage curve and how it would play well with a coil. At 130mm out back (150mm up front), with a very progressive leverage curve and an Inline coil the feel is hard to believe. The difference between an air damped bike with a non-progressive LR/curve and what I'm on now is radicle. Going down it has the exact same gooey stuck to the ground feel as a DH bike, but going up the bike is at least as good as an air damped rig.

Pivot treated me so well I thought I'd be with them for the long haul but just could not get around their LR/curve (progressive/regressive) designed around air shocks. Even considered an 11/6, but got to test ride that shock on an M6 and it was not great. Maybe Push had to dial up the HSC to get the shock to not bottom out on bigger hits, and that caused harshness through the entire range of travel. I don't know, but it did not feel as good as I had hoped.

I also don't find mid-travel bikes need that much anti-squat. As long as the bike has proper geometry and a good rear damper with good LSC, too much anti-squat becomes an impediment. At best high levels of anti-squat are a necessary evil on long travel bikes to help them pedal and climb. Pivot, IMO, has gone overboard with its high levels of AS on every bike they make.

My current bike has one of the lowest AS levels going and it has a coil - I find it to be the best climbing bike I've owned.

Anyway, back to the Ribbon Coil... I think it will be a good fit on my current bike.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

luisgutierod said:


> so, going back to previous discussions, the ribbon coil has ramp control, LSC + rebound. Why is this enough for you guys at MRP ? is it because coil does not benefit that much from HSC when paired with the Ramp control ?


None of us internally, nor any of our test riders, felt a high-speed compression adjustment would be beneficial. There simply wasn't a performance shortcoming anyone felt it would remedy. Ramp Control lets you isolate bottom-out control and the coil spring provides nice mid-stroke support.

I also want to mention that the Ribbon Coil also has a preload adjustment. So you can adjust spring rate, preload, rebound damping, low-speed compression damping, and bottom-out support. We feel not only that that strikes a good balance of tunability and ease-of-setup, but that adding additional controls would come at more cost than benefit.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Couldn't high pressure air going into the stanchion lead to popping dust seals? Though this is something I'm sure you guys have addressed.
> 
> Axel to crown. 562mm on the 275 at 170 travel. It's safe to assume at 150 the a2c is 542?


That was something to consider, but 1)it's ambient air pressure and 2)air forks already have their spring side stanchions fully closed off (and people aren't popping seals on 170mm Ribbons at full-compression). A long-travel air fork would be the worst-case scenario for high-pressure in the lowers at bottom-out. Ramp Control in the Ribbon Coil either gives or takes-away that secondary spring effect.

And, yes, A2C changes accordingly with travel.

Cheers


----------



## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> That was something to consider, but 1)it's ambient air pressure and 2)air forks already have their spring side stanchions fully closed off (and people aren't popping seals on 170mm Ribbons at full-compression). A long-travel air fork would be the worst-case scenario for high-pressure in the lowers at bottom-out. Ramp Control in the Ribbon Coil either gives or takes-away that secondary spring effect.
> 
> And, yes, A2C changes accordingly with travel.
> 
> Cheers


So similar to how Marz used air assist to control bottom out?


----------



## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Anyway, back to the Ribbon Coil... I think it will be a good fit on my current bike.


Yeah, I feel the same way...Ribbon Coil headed for the Endorphin. Lyrik (air) just isn't giving me what I want out of it.


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## SyT (Jul 27, 2005)

NoahColorado said:


> *Ribbon Coil Spring Dimensions and Rates*
> Free Length: 317.5mm (+/- 2.5mm) / 12.5" (+/- .1")
> Outer Diameter: 30.1mm / 1.2"
> Rate in N/mm (+/- 7%): X-Soft 5.5, Soft 6.9, Medium 8.2, Firm 9.6, X-Firm 10.5
> Rate in lbs/in (+/- 7%): X-Soft 31, Soft 39, Medium 47, Firm 55, X-Firm 60


Thanks


----------



## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

My 170 Coil came in today, I was sweating it a bit given the holidays are a day away! 
Need to switch to the soft spring, I doubt I'll get a ride in over the weekend as our shop is trading both Sat and Sunday, but hopefully Tuesday I'll get a spin. 
Looks nice


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> None of us internally, nor any of our test riders, felt a high-speed compression adjustment would be beneficial. There simply wasn't a performance shortcoming anyone felt it would remedy. Ramp Control lets you isolate bottom-out control and the coil spring provides nice mid-stroke support.
> 
> I also want to mention that the Ribbon Coil also has a preload adjustment. So you can adjust spring rate, preload, rebound damping, low-speed compression damping, and bottom-out support. We feel not only that that strikes a good balance of tunability and ease-of-setup, but that adding additional controls would come at more cost than benefit.


Thanks for the answer ! Great to read this level of detail. 
Im sure a good and thoroughly tested product doesn't need adjustments for the sake of having them...btw I bought my Ribbon coil 2 weeks ago, just wont be able to ride it until January. For me its a no brainer, specially when you have compared air vs coil and know how different for better coil is...cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CharacterZero said:


> So similar to how Marz used air assist to control bottom out?


I think the Marzocchi Air Assist was a way to add pressure to the spring chamber, making it coil/air hybrid. I could be wrong though. This would add to preload and bottom-out resistance/add-to progression. So, Ramp Control is different in that it only does one of those things (preload is adjustable elsewhere, independently), it's speed-sensitive, and it uses ambient air pressure.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Miker J said:


> Big Pivot fan here but I've wanted to move back to coil on my trail bike for several years now and Pivots' leverage ratio/curves just don't play well with coils.
> 
> Last bike I built up was in no small way based on its leverage curve and how it would play well with a coil. At 130mm out back (150mm up front), with a very progressive leverage curve and an Inline coil the feel is hard to believe. The difference between an air damped bike with a non-progressive LR/curve and what I'm on now is radicle. Going down it has the exact same gooey stuck to the ground feel as a DH bike, but going up the bike is at least as good as an air damped rig.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you like Knolly's design philosophy. Is that what you ended up with?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Cary said:


> Sounds like you like Knolly's design philosophy. Is that what you ended up with?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


Yes.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Im 75kgs so switched out to the yellow spring straight away. This is only the second time I've pulled a fork apart so was a little nervous, all went pretty smooth, managed to save all the oil so that was good, when I undid the snap ring the rod shot out a little (it was under tension a bit, is this normal?), and therefore getting it back in after the spring change required a second pair of hands to push the rod back in whilst I got the snap ring in place. Thought maybe I had preload wound in, but double checked and pretty sure I didn't. 

Def feels softer now, the carpark test hasn't revealed any mind blows, but hopefully out on the trails it comes alive


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

B Rabbit said:


> ...when I undid the snap ring the rod shot out a little (it was under tension a bit, is this normal?), and therefore getting it back in after the spring change required a second pair of hands to push the rod back in whilst I got the snap ring in place. Thought maybe I had preload wound in, but double checked and pretty sure I didn't.
> 
> Def feels softer now, the carpark test hasn't revealed any mind blows, but hopefully out on the trails it comes alive


Yeah, you don't _have to_ remove (or partially remove) the top cap for a spring swap or travel change, but it does take some load off the spring, making it easier to remove and install the seal head/stanchion plug. Taking all the preload off will make it easier.

I'm in the midst of making some revisions to the instructions - we're shooting video for air-to-coil conversion, spring swap, and travel change tomorrow.

And yeah, the carpark is not where the Ribbon Coil is designed to shine. But running full-speed into parking blocks is sometimes amusing. Occasionally when I'm tinkering with settings at home I do this in the school parking lot across the street.


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> Coiled mid-travel bikes are the bomb! I'm trying to concoct a way to make a coil rear shock play well with my Switchblade - Pivot strongly discourages coil rear shocks on a lot of their bikes because they rely on the inherent progression of an air-spring. My 140mm Ribbon Coil is fantastic on the bike, helping to keep it low and the handling tight without sacrificing suspension performance.


A little of subject so I'll keep it to one question. Does MRP have any plans to offer the Raze in metric and trunnion?


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I have a question noah, why can't you change the spring by removing the top cap? I didn't try it, but it seems like the logical way to do it.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pedrosalas7 said:


> I have a question noah, why can't you change the spring by removing the top cap? I didn't try it, but it seems like the logical way to do it.


Because we have a butted stanchion. You can't pass the sleeved portion through the top. And without the sleeve, it would be noisy in operation.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

bigcrs said:


> A little of subject so I'll keep it to one question. Does MRP have any plans to offer the Raze in metric and trunnion?


All I can say is yes.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Because we have a butted stanchion. You can't pass the sleeved portion through the top. And without the sleeve, it would be noisy in operation.


Got it. And the current process is not difficult at all, I was just wondering. I'm super stoked on my ribbon coil! it's miles ahead of the pike and it looks the part too!


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## JDMDA9 (Feb 19, 2007)

How well this fork works prompted me to post here.

Came from a Pike 160mm on a V1 Bronson.

Built up a V2 Bronson, was on the fence whether to go with a DVO Diamond (love the Topaz, swapped that to my V2 Bronson), DVO Beryl, wait for the DVO Onyx Single Crown, Cane Creek Helm or Lyrik. Fox is never on my radar since their customer service is dismal and their s'hit is too hard to service at home.

Read the Diamond was finicky to setup, and has almost too many adjustments. Heavy for what it is, but easy to service. Beryl was new and untested, similar internally to the Diamond, with less adjustments (plus for me) and an attractive price. Having to lower travel out of the box was a huge turnoff, given that it is not super straightforward to do. Onyx still isn't available. Cane Creek was also interesting, good price, a few reviews here and there. They have a cloud of reliability issues from the DB-Air, though their customer service seems eager to please. Lyrik is only competitive if you buy from the UK, but that leaves you with s'hit service as SRAM isn't interested in helping the end user directly. I liked my Pike (once I fixed all the MY15 problems), but figured it wouldn't hurt to go a different direction. 

Checked out MRP, as I heard about the Stage a few years ago. Stumbled across this thread, and was immediately drawn to the new Ribbon, and even more so to the coil Ribbon. 

MRP seems just as easy to service as DVO or Rockshox, more reliable than Cane Creek and performance as good or better than any of the ~$1000 forks. 

Found a smoking coupon for it on Universal Cycles. 

Had 4 rides on it so far. 

I'm not too into tweaking stuff endlessly. Once I find settings that work, that's where they stay until I rebuild or do a bike park day. Also, I'm not particularly sensitive to anything other than opioids, edibles and (lots of) alcohol. Subtle adjustments rarely register with me, and I only seem to notice when the bike feels extra-dialed. 

That said, I found the right settings for the Ribbon Coil pretty quick. I like not having to dick with air pressure to get it to feel right. A few turns of preload, a few clicks of rebound and open compression got me right where I wanted. Compression does really feel different at every few notches, so it's nice to have usable range. Tried messing with the Ramp Control, I don't really feel much change from max to min. The structure is very stiff, the through-axle is the best design ever and the overall quality is quite a few notches above my Pike. The knobs feel higher quality and the finish appears nicer. Excited to tear into it in a few months to see the insides. Weight is very competitive considering it has a giant steel spring in one side. Didn't feel the need to change out the Medium spring at my weight of ~200lbs geared up. Install and ride, can't beat that. 

Very happy with my choice, and the support has been great. MRP answers emails very quickly, and Noah is very active on here. Tough fork to beat if you ask me.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Ok, first ride in on the 170mm Ribbon Coil 27.5.

The coil is definitely an improvement over the pike but I need more time on it. Im 75kgs and running the light spring, it felt great on the deeper hits, and felt wwwaayyyyy better during repeated hits, but it felt a little stiff/firm off the top (on small roots etc). Seemed to really come alive on the high speed rough stuff, whilst the track was pretty tame, I was running no ramp and I still had an Inch or so of travel left so will take it to a more DH track and see how much travel I use. It was only a small ride, I'll get another one in the next couple of days.

So 3 questions;
1) When I changed spring Im pretty sure there was more oil in the Damper side of the leg then the Coil side, is this how it should be and if not could this affect performance at all? 
2) Do the forks have a break in period? Or are they as good as they will be straight of the box?
3) Has anyone tried a lower spring rate then the chart suggested for their weight? I'm tempted to try a x-soft spring and see how it feels. But not sure if I'll just go down the Pike route of compromising mid stroke for small bump. 
And for the record, they fit a 2.8 minion easy as. Not sure what the rim width was. 
So overall impression was good, but hoping I can get them get better 



























How much travel was left


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

And this is with the Maxxis 2.8 fitted


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

about wiper seal kits, could the 35mm SKFs (or Pike's) be used on the Ribbon ??


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Yep. Had seals replaced with SKF when the Ribbon air was serviced this summer - worked fine, not sure if it took some modification of the seals to fit, seemed smoother.
Back to MRP wiper seals with the coil conversion, stiction so low with the coil that the feel is awesome.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Pulled mine apart to change travel and the top out bumper seems to have disintegrated and pieces were bouncing around inside. Only 500-600 miles on this fork. Seems premature.

Anyone seen this before of know how/where to buy a replacement?


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

Contact MRP after the weekend. It is probably a warranty issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Anyone seen this before of know how/where to buy a replacement?


Yeah, we're happy to replace that. I'll work out the deets in a PM.

Those bumpers were a little delicate and in some instances could get pinched and cut under compression. We've since changed the part.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

B Rabbit said:


> So 3 questions;
> 1) When I changed spring Im pretty sure there was more oil in the Damper side of the leg then the Coil side, is this how it should be and if not could this affect performance at all?
> 2) Do the forks have a break in period? Or are they as good as they will be straight of the box?
> 3) Has anyone tried a lower spring rate then the chart suggested for their weight? I'm tempted to try a x-soft spring and see how it feels. But not sure if I'll just go down the Pike route of compromising mid stroke for small bump.
> ...


1) The coil takes 15cc of oil per leg (in the lowers) for lubrication. So long as there was plenty of oil in each leg, performance should not be affected. If there was a heaps more oil in one leg, that'd be interesting.

2) Every fork benefits from a break-in period. But your fork should feel awesome out of the box. Small bump sensitivity tends to improve as seals wear-in.

3) You're more than welcome to try the lightest spring, but I'd be wary of drawing too many conclusions from a single ride. I'm a big proponent (especially with coil) of having a little unused travel at the end of your stroke on most of your rides - keeping a little on tap for big hits and terrifying mistakes. I think a lot of people are accustomed to using full travel on their air forks because those forks weren't recovering travel after successive hits and were packing down. That's a result of the damping effect of the additional seals and top-out-easing effect of the negative spring. Just a theory....


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## carbine_275 (Nov 15, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, we're happy to replace that. I'll work out the deets in a PM.
> 
> Those bumpers were a little delicate and in some instances could get pinched and cut under compression. We've since changed the part.


Noah,
Is there any way to know without opening the fork up if my Ribbon has the rev.1 bumpers? I'm considering a coil conversion and travel adjustment, would just prefer to take care of it all at one time.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Am I correct to assume that the coil will perform better on fast braking bumps?

How about mid-stroke support for air versus coil?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

carbine_275 said:


> Noah,
> Is there any way to know without opening the fork up if my Ribbon has the rev.1 bumpers? I'm considering a coil conversion and travel adjustment, would just prefer to take care of it all at one time.


No, but a coil conversion would replace the top out assembly anyway.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Curveball said:


> Am I correct to assume that the coil will perform better on fast braking bumps?
> 
> How about mid-stroke support for air versus coil?


Yes and yes.

Coil wins in performance over successive hits.

And yes, the coil spring curve is linear through the middle, whereas an air-spring curve dips there and ramps up at the end.


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## retswen (May 13, 2014)

I finally got two solid rides in this past weekend on the Ribbon coil. I previously had a Suntour Durolux R2C2 and before that a DVO Diamond non boost.

The Durolux suffered the issue with successive hits documented in the Pinbike review so I will skip comparing it. 

The DVO Diamond was the fork I owned the longest and rode the most prior.

The TLDR version is that I would be perfectly happy with either the DVO or the MRP now that I have ridden both.

Where the MRP wins is how quickly I was able to find the sweet spot once I installed the correct spring. I followed the recommended rebound settings for my weight, checked the sag, did the parking lot bounce up and down and set the ramp control, and went out to ride. After the first ride, I only added a couple clicks of LSC to minimize bobbing when climbing. Since then, I have not felt the need to twiddle any knobs and I like that feeling. With the DVO, it took a lot longer to find the sweet spot and it took more effort to keep it there.

The bolt on axle is also the best I have seen. 

The backwards arch is neat as well. However, I would have preferred a built in fender solution and a traditional arch like the DVO has if I could choose between the two.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I like the reverse arch and think it's a good way to avoid too much buildup of mud around the seals.

An integrated fender would be ace on this fork. on every fork for that matter.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

pedrosalas7 said:


> I like the reverse arch and think it's a good way to avoid too much buildup of mud around the seals.


Agreed! The "webbing" in the arches of other popular forks are a good place for "caking" to start. It's also easier to blast mud out of the front of the arch without hitting your seals too.


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> All I can say is yes.


Perfect. The sooner the better my friend.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

pedrosalas7 said:


> An integrated fender would be ace on this fork. on every fork for that matter.


Amen brother.

Fenders are a practical necessity here in the Pacific Northwest.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Noah on the ribbon when set at 150mm travel how much travel should be showing?
Thanks


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Noah on the ribbon when set at 150mm travel how much travel should be showing?
> Thanks


I don't have that info handy, but IIRC, it's +2mm or so for 27.5/29" and +12mm or so for 27.5".


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Yes and yes.
> 
> Coil wins in performance over successive hits.
> 
> And yes, the coil spring curve is linear through the middle, whereas an air-spring curve dips there and ramps up at the end.


Thank you Noah. It looks like I'll order one next week.

It should be a good deal better than the Auron on my bike now.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> I don't have that info handy, but IIRC, it's +2mm or so for 27.5/29" and +12mm or so for 27.5".


Thanks, when adjusting travel on the coil model do you measure from the bottom of the spring seat retainer bolt or the spring seat itself


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Thanks, when adjusting travel on the coil model do you measure from the bottom of the spring seat retainer bolt or the spring seat itself


PM Sent.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Thanks, when adjusting travel on the coil model do you measure from the bottom of the spring seat retainer bolt or the spring seat itself


It's from the base of the spring seat (not the nut). But in looking into this further, I can see how the instructions could be confusing. Furthermore, we just rolled in a change to the spring rod to prevent setting the travel over the maximum - so the current rods look slightly different than what's currently depicted in the instructions. I will upload some pics ASAP. Sorry for the delay!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

New top out bumper arrived today. Thanks Noah!


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> 1) The coil takes 15cc of oil per leg (in the lowers) for lubrication. So long as there was plenty of oil in each leg, performance should not be affected. If there was a heaps more oil in one leg, that'd be interesting.
> *No worries, I was probably just day dreaming it was different volumes, but just wanted to know if it's something I should bother double checking, *
> 
> 2) Every fork benefits from a break-in period. But your fork should feel awesome out of the box. Small bump sensitivity tends to improve as seals wear-in.
> ...


Thanks for answering all that Noah :thumbsup:

Sssooooo, 4 rides in to this fork and I'm dang pretty blown away. The small bump has improved heaps, and it just kills it everywhere else. It's such an improvement over the Pike in the high speed chunk, it sits high in the travel and takes repeated hits so well. I dont think you could ask more of a fork. Welcome to the future folks! If you are sitting on the fence just do it!

Thanks Noah and MRP for making this fork, you guys know your ****!


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> It's from the base of the spring seat (not the nut). But in looking into this further, I can see how the instructions could be confusing. Furthermore, we just rolled in a change to the spring rod to prevent setting the travel over the maximum - so the current rods look slightly different than what's currently depicted in the instructions. I will upload some pics ASAP. Sorry for the delay!


Thanks Noah, that's cleared it up for me.


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## pcro (Sep 1, 2013)

Hey all, I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a Ribbon. One question I haven't seen the answer to yet - what is the lockout/full compression damping like? I'm more on the XC side than many here, and the fork will go on my singlespeed. Having real and adjustable mid-stroke support may make lockout less necessary, but will still hit that dial from time to time. Any feedback on riding this thing up hill?


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

pcro said:


> Hey all, I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a Ribbon. One question I haven't seen the answer to yet - what is the lockout/full compression damping like? I'm more on the XC side than many here, and the fork will go on my singlespeed. Having real and adjustable mid-stroke support may make lockout less necessary, but will still hit that dial from time to time. Any feedback on riding this thing up hill?


Would the Loop be a better fork for your application?

https://www.mrpbike.com/loopsl/

The Ribbon is more of an enduro fork.


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## pcro (Sep 1, 2013)

Curveball said:


> Would the Loop be a better fork for your application?


I guess I just meant I equally enjoy climbing and descending, and only do a handful of races a year. Plus it's is my only mtb. Looking for ~130mm, comparing with 34 and Pike, not 32 and SID. Thanks.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pcro said:


> Hey all, I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a Ribbon. One question I haven't seen the answer to yet - what is the lockout/full compression damping like? I'm more on the XC side than many here, and the fork will go on my singlespeed. Having real and adjustable mid-stroke support may make lockout less necessary, but will still hit that dial from time to time. Any feedback on riding this thing up hill?


Works great. I have one on my XC ride, the Pivot 429sl. First at 130mm, now at 120mm. The max compression setting eliminates any rider input from the suspension movement. I usually don't bother with that unless I'm on a road though. If you're looking for a true rigid feel however (where the fork doesn't even sag), you're not going to get it.

The Kona Adventure Team (Barry Wicks, Spencer Paxson, Cory Wallace, Kris Sneddon) raced Ribbons almost exclusively this year and put up some big results (including a 24 Hour Solo World Championship by Cory Wallace).


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## pcro (Sep 1, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> Works great.


Thanks Noah! Just hadn't read anything about it. As long as there is some kind of "lockout" platform it should be good for my needs.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

pcro said:


> I guess I just meant I equally enjoy climbing and descending, and only do a handful of races a year. Plus it's is my only mtb. Looking for ~130mm, comparing with 34 and Pike, not 32 and SID. Thanks.


If comparing, I would look at the Mattoc, not the 34 or the Pike, neither of which are in the same category performance wise. The Mattoc can be set to have a platform. The DVO Sapphire is also a good fork, but does not have the strong low speed compression you are looking for.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

*initial impressions...*

MRP Ribbon Coil set at 160. 
For perspective, coming off Lyrik on this build have ridden in order of most recent buids: Lyrik Coil w/ Avalanche, Lyrik Air w/ Avalanche, Marz 66 RC3, Lyrik Coil DH (I think that covers the last 7ish years).

I pulled the trigger on the ribbon bc the new Lyrik wasn't keeping up with the CC Coil IL out back. I was running it wide open on the compression damper as any clicks made it too sticky unless I was hauling ass...most of our riding in ATX is AM and not super high speed. So, lack of small bump sensitivity was a big driver. Mid stroke was eh...I the more I added air to control the dive/mid-stroke the worse the small bump sensitivity was... and I used the MRP Ramp Cart to control bottom out.

First ride on the MRP...coil is the real deal. Small bump sensitivity restored that bump eraser feeling, which is great because ATX trails are very rocky/rooty. Better mid stroke support means no diving in berms/g-outs and it remains supple. I'll post more as I get more time on it, riding a very XC but techy 20mi today.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

The more I ride this fork the more impressed I am. Great bottom out resistance but better small bump compliance than any other fork I have owned, including Fox 34 with Avy insert, Pike and Fox 34 Factory. Very confidence inspiring. Just got the bike and fork a few weeks ago and already setting PR's on downhill segments I thought I couldn't get any faster on!

Good show MRP!


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

Has anyone gone to a Ribbon from a new 36 that can comment on stiffness comparisons b/w the two? Thinking of a Ribbon coil, but I've been on 36's since the new ones came out in 2015, and really like the stiffness that Fox chassis provides.

I'm close to 200lbs and ride fairly aggressively, FWIW.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I’m 6’-3” and 200# and it feels very stiff. Haven’t ridden a 36 though so can’t compare.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Just installed my Ribbon and since fiddling with adjustments on the trail when it's 20 degrees outside is a pain, thought I'd ask for some guidance on initial set up here.

Vitals:
5'11 150lbs in gear
Jeffsy 29 for set to 140mm (may bump to 150 at some point)

Riding terrain is typical Va mountains. A bit of everything, but mostly roots, rocks, steep ups and downs. No jumping other than hopping off little trail features and no drops over 2 ft. 

I ride pretty aggressively, hard up and fairly hard going down.

Any insight beyond just going off the chart is appreciated.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Has anyone gone to a Ribbon from a new 36 that can comment on stiffness comparisons b/w the two? Thinking of a Ribbon coil, but I've been on 36's since the new ones came out in 2015, and really like the stiffness that Fox chassis provides.
> 
> I'm close to 200lbs and ride fairly aggressively, FWIW.


FWIW, coming off the 27.5 Lyrik I note no difference in stiffness @ 240 riding weight after a couple rides...I'd like to put it through some higher speed chunk before a final conclusion, but first impressions are that these two chassis are neck to neck.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

kiotae said:


> Just installed my Ribbon and since fiddling with adjustments on the trail when it's 20 degrees outside is a pain, thought I'd ask for some guidance on initial set up here.
> 
> Vitals:
> 5'11 150lbs in gear
> ...


I'd start with the plush setting from the chart and go to neutral if it feels too soft. I'm finding the neutral settings perfect for my local trails which are split between rocky and slow and rocky and fast.

I've never found recommend settings as accurate as these.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

CharacterZero said:


> FWIW, coming off the 27.5 Lyrik I note no difference in stiffness @ 240 riding weight after a couple rides...I'd like to put it through some higher speed chunk before a final conclusion, but first impressions are that these two chassis are neck to neck.


Cool, thanks for the info!


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## Nalla (Jul 19, 2009)

I recently got an MRP Ribbon air and ordered a 140mm version and the label on box was correct.

On riding though the bike felt strange angle wise.

I let the air out of both Chambers and fully compressed. The image shows the travel available as shown by the o ring. 
It looks like the fork is 150 travel.
Can't find any of the travel spacers available in the UK and the shop I purchased from hasn't responded to the emails.

Anyone know how many spacers should be in the 140 version and how easy it is to fix myself if I can find the spacers anywhere.
Thanks
(apologies I couldn't for the life of me rotate the image correctly)


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Nalla said:


> I recently got an MRP Ribbon air and ordered a 140mm version and the label on box was correct.
> 
> On riding though the bike felt strange angle wise.
> 
> ...


Based on the color, I'm guessing that's a SC 5010? So you've got a 27.5" Ribbon? In that case, you should have 30mm of spacers on the air-spring if you've got a 140mm setup. As that's our shortest-travel 27.5" fork, no additional spacers would have been included in the box (because they'd be in the fork to begin with).

There is a video of the travel-change process here.

Have you setup your air spring correctly? I just want to make sure your fork isn't overextended as a result of little or no pressure in the negative chamber.


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## Nalla (Jul 19, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. I setup with the pressure in the negative spring slightly higher.

To measure the travel I removed pressure from both Chambers and compressed and that's where the o ring ended up. My method might be totally incorrect but it looks like 150mm of useable travel with another 10mm on top. 

I think I have a 5mm spacer in the box. 

Will have to take it apart to check for sure but not having worked on a fork before I'm a little nervous! 

Bike is a a 5010 and definitely feels a little strange.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

marti163 said:


> I'd start with the plush setting from the chart and go to neutral if it feels too soft. I'm finding the neutral settings perfect for my local trails which are split between rocky and slow and rocky and fast.
> 
> I've never found recommend settings as accurate as these.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks much.

What's considered the better/more effective way to keep the fork up a bit in it's travel when descending steepish rooty/rocky stuff at speed?

I was thinking either a little more positive pressure than suggested and bumping the negative above it to help keep the small bump compliance. Or should I just turn up the ramp control (does it come into play at all in the mid stroke?) and keep the pressures as is?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

kiotae said:


> Thanks much.
> 
> What's considered the better/more effective way to keep the fork up a bit in it's travel when descending steepish rooty/rocky stuff at speed?
> 
> I was thinking either a little more positive pressure than suggested and bumping the negative above it to help keep the small bump compliance. Or should I just turn up the ramp control (does it come into play at all in the mid stroke?) and keep the pressures as is?


You've got to determine if you are eating up your travel from big fast hits, or are you dealing with "fork dive".

If you are dealing with fork dive, then increase the LSC (low speed compression). Or, increasing the positive pressure just a bit (but I'd do that without adding more to the neg air spring, if that's an option).

If it is the big fast hits that are eating up all your travel too easily, then that can be addressed with a more progressive air spring or more HSC (high speed compression). I'm still a little fuzzy on how the Ramp Control works precisely, but it seems that would be your answer in this latter scenario.


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## 772268 (Jun 8, 2014)

*MRP Ribbon coil spring change / travel change video footage....???*

Anyone here know where I can find a video 'how to' on how to change the fork spring on the Ribbon coil fork? My fork arrived today and I need to 1. change the travel to 160mm from 150mm, and 2. I also need to put the extra soft spring in rather than the medium which the fork arrived with. I cannot find ANY video on the Ribbon coil version...? ...It seems 'spacers' are not employed in the Coil version when changing the travel, but ARE required in the Air version...???

Also, my fork did not arrive with the 'slick honey' that was supposed to be included. ...Also, does anyone 'know' what the heck the 'rebound removal tool' is? ...I cannot locate one, nor can I find anyone who knows what I am talking about....

Thanks.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Skrool said:


> Anyone here know where I can find a video 'how to' on how to change the fork spring on the Ribbon coil fork? My fork arrived today and I need to 1. change the travel to 160mm from 150mm, and 2. I also need to put the extra soft spring in rather than the medium which the fork arrived with. I cannot find ANY video on the Ribbon coil version...? ...It seems 'spacers' are not employed in the Coil version when changing the travel, but ARE required in the Air version...???
> 
> Also, my fork did not arrive with the 'slick honey' that was supposed to be included. ...Also, does anyone 'know' what the heck the 'rebound removal tool' is? ...I cannot locate one, nor can I find anyone who knows what I am talking about....
> 
> Thanks.


I'm going to need to change to the soft spring when I get mine and after looking at the on-line owner's manual, I was also curious about the "rebound removal tool". At least I already have Slick Honey. Yes, a spring change video would be nice so that I would know what parts are being discussed in the manual. Or an exploded diagram showing the involved parts.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Skrool said:


> Anyone here know where I can find a video 'how to' on how to change the fork spring on the Ribbon coil fork? My fork arrived today and I need to 1. change the travel to 160mm from 150mm, and 2. I also need to put the extra soft spring in rather than the medium which the fork arrived with. I cannot find ANY video on the Ribbon coil version...? ...It seems 'spacers' are not employed in the Coil version when changing the travel, but ARE required in the Air version...???
> 
> Also, my fork did not arrive with the 'slick honey' that was supposed to be included. ...Also, does anyone 'know' what the heck the 'rebound removal tool' is? ...I cannot locate one, nor can I find anyone who knows what I am talking about....
> 
> Thanks.


I'm sorry we don't have a video yet. We've shot it, but because of the holidays it has taken awhile to finish.

The rebound removal tool is not required to change the spring rate or travel. It simply allows you to hold the rebound and Ramp Control position while unthreading the rebound and Ramp Control screws.

If the removal knob is not used, turn the rebound to the full slow position (clockwise), and the Ramp Control knob to the "max" position (clockwise) before removing the knobs. Remove both knobs and set aside. Use a 10mm open end wrench and unthread the damper-side screw assembly, the rebound needle will unthread to the end of the damper rod as the damper screw unthreads. Feel for the threads of the damper screw to release from the rod, and then pull the damper screw straight out of the rebound needle. The rebound needle will now be flush with the end of the damper rod. Use the 3mm hex key to turn the rebound needle back down into place. Tighten until firm resistance is encountered, then back off by half a turn. Repeat the procedure for the Ramp Control screw.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*Coil Spring Swap and Travel Change Procedure Document Update*

Hi all,

There has been some confusion on the spring swap and travel change procedure for the Ribbon Coil, so we've made some changes to the document. The latest version is here: Ribbon Coil: Spring and Travel Change

Most of the confusion came from how to measure/setup the spring assembly for different travel lengths. We've changed the way you measure this distance for setup. There was a change early on in production to the spring rod that most likely caused further confusion as the rod pictured in the manual did not match what's in the vast majority of forks out there. That change was made to prevent incorrect user setup that could result in excessive fork travel.

As well, here is a image of the spring rod assembly to clear up any confusion about what's being alluded to in the instructions.









As I stated earlier, we will have a video of these processes up soon.

Thanks!


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Noah if you reduce the travel on a coil fork is this adding more preload to the spring?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Noah if you reduce the travel on a coil fork is this adding more preload to the spring?


No. The spring length, rate, and preload do not change with travel.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

cheers


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Miker J said:


> You've got to determine if you are eating up your travel from big fast hits, or are you dealing with "fork dive".
> 
> If you are dealing with fork dive, then increase the LSC (low speed compression). Or, increasing the positive pressure just a bit (but I'd do that without adding more to the neg air spring, if that's an option).
> 
> If it is the big fast hits that are eating up all your travel too easily, then that can be addressed with a more progressive air spring or more HSC (high speed compression). I'm still a little fuzzy on how the Ramp Control works precisely, but it seems that would be your answer in this latter scenario.


Thanks for this, I added a couples clicks of LSC and some more ramp and that seems to have helped.

As for pressures, when I go off the updated chart, I only get through about 100-110mm travel under normal riding. It doesn't feel bad, just no where near full travel. I dropped things back to 65/69 and it helped a little.

Am I nuts to try 60/65 for 140mm 29er at 145-150lbs bodyweight? It's well under what is suggested, but even the 65/69 was only yielding about 30mm sag.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

kiotae said:


> Am I nuts to try 60/65 for 140mm 29er at 145-150lbs bodyweight? It's well under what is suggested, but even the 65/69 was only yielding about 30mm sag.


Nope, I'd definitely try lower pressures. The posted numbers are just guidelines, and some folks like their forks much softer than the guideline. On my Pikes I was supposed to run 90 psi, but ran 70 psi.

Too many people try fixing their forks and shocks with damping changes before they get the pressure close. I always recommend experimenting a lot with pressure early on, while you are also fiddling with the dials.

The extreme case is that it's very very common to run into folks who have 5 year bikes and wonder why they ride poorly, and haven't put a shock pump on since they bought it, but have been turning up the damping 

Not saying that's you of course, but just saying play with the pressure, it's worth it.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Nope, I'd definitely try lower pressures. The posted numbers are just guidelines, and some folks like their forks much softer than the guideline. On my Pikes I was supposed to run 90 psi, but ran 70 psi.
> 
> Too many people try fixing their forks and shocks with damping changes before they get the pressure close. I always recommend experimenting a lot with pressure early on, while you are also fiddling with the dials.
> 
> ...


I'll give it a whirl tomorrow. I think I may just ride a bit lighter on the front end than a "typical" rider as I am finding my preferred rear set up bang on with what's suggested. Either that or I'm just not as aggressive as I thought


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

Well I'm a member of the ribbon owners club now can't wait to get this out on the trails


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Another question for other owners or Noah. With negative set approx 5psi higher than the positive (62/67), is it normal for the fork to not fully extend by 10ish mm? I don't have to pull it out by hand, just lifting up the bars and taking the weight of the front end off will let it extend the rest of the way. 

I did follow the proper set up procedure of empty the neg, set the pos, then refill the neg.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiotae said:


> Another question for other owners or Noah. With negative set approx 5psi higher than the positive (62/67), is it normal for the fork to not fully extend by 10ish mm? I don't have to pull it out by hand, just lifting up the bars and taking the weight of the front end off will let it extend the rest of the way.
> 
> I did follow the proper set up procedure of empty the neg, set the pos, then refill the neg.


If it's too plush for you liking, you can set the pressures equal. But, it kinda sounds like in one way or another you got more than 5psi difference. 10mm is lot of sag just for bike weight - I assume you're not on the bike?


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> If it's too plush for you liking, you can set the pressures equal. But, it kinda sounds like in one way or another you got more than 5psi difference. 10mm is lot of sag just for bike weight - I assume you're not on the bike?


Nope, not sitting on it  I cycle the fork a couple times and it never comes all the way back up. However, if I lift the front end so the fork fully extends and set it back down, it doesn't sag at all under the weight of the bike.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

If it matters, it's been cold here. 40 in my garage and around 15-25 when out riding. Using a digital pump so my pressures should be pretty accurate.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiotae said:


> If it matters, it's been cold here. 40 in my garage and around 15-25 when out riding. Using a digital pump so my pressures should be pretty accurate.


I don't have any definitive answer for you unfortunately. Temperature does effect pressure and fluid viscosity, so I suppose that could be a part of it.

Most importantly, how does it feel? Have you been able to get a solid ride on it? It does take a little while for any fork to break-in. Due to our QC processes, our forks generally feel more broken-in out of the box than others.

Also, are you eye-balling that 10mm or measuring it? Have you measured the travel you're getting after a ride?


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

I finally tried the Ribbon Coil, and at 180lb the medium spring would be my rampage setup ; ) hahaha. couple jumps and few small drops & high speed berms and I had almost couple inches left there.. I never managed to get 20% sag without preload. I just changed spring and upped travel to 170mm to check it out probably next weekend. Even with too firm of a spring, the initial travel is buttery smooth as expected and traction on the steep & rooted section I tried was amazing.. I tried everything open except rebound, I might change that after the spring change though. braap..


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> I don't have any definitive answer for you unfortunately. Temperature does effect pressure and fluid viscosity, so I suppose that could be a part of it.
> 
> Most importantly, how does it feel? Have you been able to get a solid ride on it? It does take a little while for any fork to break-in. Due to our QC processes, our forks generally feel more broken-in out of the box than others.
> 
> Also, are you eye-balling that 10mm or measuring it? Have you measured the travel you're getting after a ride?


It feels pretty great in use, better than the pike it replaced. About 5 hours on it.

10mm is measured, although after today's ride it's down to more like 5mm. 
Getting as much travel as I expect for the ride terrain, 120-130 with the last bit for backup. Ramp at 6, if I dial it back a couple clicks I'll get through it all.

Mostly want to make sure something isn't wrong that I'm making worse by riding it. From the measurements I took, it seems like even with it "sticking" a little bit, there is definitely 140mm worth of travel available.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

First things first - Coil is the real deal/winner winner and better than any air fork i've ridden in recent years - and i've tried most all of em (RS, Fox, DVO, Cane Creek, MRP)...

It just handles every trail 'feature' better - climbing or descending... i cannot find a drawback - seriously. Wont ride air again... nominal weight penalty is nominal and well worth the overall improvements in ride and "set and forget" ability.

I did end up on the lighter weight spring based on the chart - i was kinda on the bubble - but was leaving a decent bit on the table without using ramp or pre-load - that said - it still was amazingly good. Now - on the lighter spring (for my weight) - i have more useable travel and tune-ability w Ramp and Preload... 

Feel is simply amazing regardless of size of hit, velocity and speed of things etc... really makes you realize what a truly good fork should feel like and how it removes some unwanted behaviors found in some air forks.

Noah - is it safe to state the following:
- to keep the fork riding a little higher in travel - spring preload adjust
- to dial in some progression and bottom out resistance - Ramp
- small bump/supple feel wont change with either from an off the top perspective


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## SyT (Jul 27, 2005)

So does this fork utilize a driven piston in a sealed chamber on the spring side ?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> Noah - is it safe to state the following:
> - to keep the fork riding a little higher in travel - spring preload adjust
> - to dial in some progression and bottom out resistance - Ramp
> - small bump/supple feel wont change with either from an off the top perspective


Glad you love it!

"to keep the fork riding a little higher in travel - spring preload adjust"
Yes. Preload elevates the force required to move the fork at all, thus it changes sag and the required force to achieve any amount of travel throughout the stroke.

"to dial in some progression and bottom out resistance - Ramp"
Yes, though not really "progression" in general - only in ending stroke "ramp up." It has zero affect on sag, for instance.

"small bump/supple feel wont change with either from an off the top perspective"
True for Ramp Control. I'm a little leery to say preload won't, because I don't want to mixup terminology. Again, adding preload elevates the force required to get the fork to move, so it does "firm" up the initial stroke, so that does change "feel." But, I think the small bump issues people are most often trying to address don't have to do with that, but rather the relative _smoothness _of the system. In which case, yeah, tuning these two adjustments won't diminish the nature of a coil-sprung fork being more _responsive_.

Does that make sense?

I think sometimes people think "small bump" means your first ~5% of travel. Well, your first 10-30% of travel (depending on preference) is sag. "Small bump sensitivity" to me means that at sag I want the fork to freely move (_up and down_) over little changes in the surface of the trail. And yeah, preload does nothing to diminish that.


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## Noclutch (Jun 20, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> Works great. I have one on my XC ride, the Pivot 429sl. First at 130mm, now at 120mm. The max compression setting eliminates any rider input from the suspension movement. I usually don't bother with that unless I'm on a road though. If you're looking for a true rigid feel however (where the fork doesn't even sag), you're not going to get it.
> 
> The Kona Adventure Team (Barry Wicks, Spencer Paxson, Cory Wallace, Kris Sneddon) raced Ribbons almost exclusively this year and put up some big results (including a 24 Hour Solo World Championship by Cory Wallace).


Thanks for this perspective Noah. The 429SL is on my sorta short list LOL
While the majority of Ribbon buyers are more AM to end oriented, I'm interested in it for XC and trail. The whole "air spring" thing bugs me coming from a long moto/HS background and I've thought my air sprung MTB forks have been "ok" at best, thus my interest in your fork that is actually sprung!
I'll be following this thread leading up to my next build. Nice ot know that the weight difference between yours and (have to say it nearest competitor) Fox 34 120 is less than 200g?
Thanks again to you and MRP


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Just got my Ribbon back from MRP. Customer service is outstanding. Not only did they immediately reach out to me when I mentioned the fork was running a little sticky. But both the CEO and Noah reached out separately.

Not only did they send me a shipping label. They actually called me to verify I got it. (calling is a rare thing in the bike world).

Not only did they fix all my issues they helped me choose that going coil was my best option.

Not only did they turn the fork around in less than a week. They called me when it arrived to double check the settings I wanted.

Beyond awesome.

Ride report on coil 150mm 29er coming soon. Parking lot test says it's pluuuuuusshh-y awesomeness.

I just upgraded to 203 rotor too, as I'm expecting warps speeds are coming.

Thanks MRP.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Just got my Ribbon back from MRP. Customer service is outstanding. Not only did they immediately reach out to me when I mentioned the fork was running a little sticky. But both the CEO and Noah reached out separately.
> 
> Not only did they send me a shipping label. They actually called me to verify I got it. (calling is a rare thing in the bike world).
> 
> ...


Outstanding - and i suspect you are gonna love the coil performance!


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Good stuff Noah and as always i like many others really appreciate the attention you and MRP are paying to your customers!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Noclutch said:


> The whole "air spring" thing bugs me coming from a long moto/HS background and I've thought my air sprung MTB forks have been "ok" at best, thus my interest in your fork that is actually sprung!
> I'll be following this thread leading up to my next build. Nice ot know that the weight difference between yours and (have to say it nearest competitor) Fox 34 120 is less than 200g?


Well, the Ribbon COIL is another beast. I use the Ribbon AIR on my 429sl. The Ribbon Coil is only offered down to 140mm of travel for the 27.5+/29" version, and, though light, it's around a half-pound more than the air version.

Just want to make sure you know we have two versions.

Cheers!


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

rscecil007 said:


> Has anyone gone to a Ribbon from a new 36 that can comment on stiffness comparisons b/w the two? Thinking of a Ribbon coil, but I've been on 36's since the new ones came out in 2015, and really like the stiffness that Fox chassis provides.
> 
> I'm close to 200lbs and ride fairly aggressively, FWIW.


Not quite as stiff. I'm 185 without gear, decently aggressive. Fox felt really stout up front, when it replaced the Pike, it was noticeable. Going to the Ribbon felt like a small step back.

_MK


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## jaks (Feb 2, 2005)

Anybody know the weights of the soft, med, firm springs? Bonus points if you know the extra soft spring weight too. 

I'm guessing the quoted fork weight is with the medium spring?


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## maimed02 (Jul 25, 2014)

Going to be doing a write up fairly soon on my MRP Ribbon Coil (which so far I am loving), but I was hoping Noah that you might be able to shed a little more light on the oil used in the lowers?

The manual says 5 - 10w oil? Could you let me know what oil is used before the ribbon is sent out and if a 5w vs a 10w will make much noticeable difference at all?

Thanks


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

maimed02 said:


> Going to be doing a write up fairly soon on my MRP Ribbon Coil (which so far I am loving), but I was hoping Noah that you might be able to shed a little more light on the oil used in the lowers?
> 
> The manual says 5 - 10w oil? Could you let me know what oil is used before the ribbon is sent out and if a 5w vs a 10w will make much noticeable difference at all?
> 
> Thanks


I don't think it matters much. I believe the purpose of the oil in the lowers is just to keep the foam rings lubricated in order to catch dirt and keep things moving smoothly.

This is unlike the damper oil, where viscosity will effect the performance characteristics

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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

jaks said:


> Anybody know the weights of the soft, med, firm springs? Bonus points if you know the extra soft spring weight too.
> 
> I'm guessing the quoted fork weight is with the medium spring?


This is a great question. Also, the weight of the air version will get heavier as you increase the air pressure for heavier riders due to the increase in air molecules. Anyone know of the weights for the increases in air pressure? Say in 10 psi increments?


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## kkxaq (Jul 4, 2017)

Air densitet is roughly 1.2 g/L at room temperature. If your air volume is 250mL then you are adding 0.3g per 14.5 psi.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> This is a great question. Also, the weight of the air version will get heavier as you increase the air pressure for heavier riders due to the increase in air molecules. Anyone know of the weights for the increases in air pressure? Say in 10 psi increments?


I also thought about replying something.. didnt come up with anything... you have won today.


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## rscecil007 (Apr 7, 2007)

MK_ said:


> Not quite as stiff. I'm 185 without gear, decently aggressive. Fox felt really stout up front, when it replaced the Pike, it was noticeable. Going to the Ribbon felt like a small step back.
> 
> _MK


Thanks for the feedback MK.


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## jazzanova (Jun 1, 2008)

Haow does this coil fork work for lighter riders? 
Considering there are only 3 springs...
Like with many other suspension I am at the extreme end of adjustment spectrum at 140lbs and often go with a custom tune (Avy or Push)
Will the light spring be light enough and will I be able to tune it to my weight?

Currently on a Nomad 3 with a push 116 and 160mm Avy open bath pike.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

jazzanova said:


> Haow does this coil fork work for lighter riders?
> Considering there are only 3 springs...
> Like with many other suspension I am at the extreme end of adjustment spectrum at 140lbs and often go with a custom tune (Avy or Push)
> Will the light spring be light enough and will I be able to tune it to my weight?
> ...


you probaly need the x-soft one, dont know if you can get it straight there when purchasing or only separately.. Im 175 lb and I need the soft one...


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

luisgutierod said:


> I also thought about replying something.. didnt come up with anything... you have won today.


it was a softball wasn't it


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

maimed02 said:


> The manual says 5 - 10w oil? Could you let me know what oil is used before the ribbon is sent out and if a 5w vs a 10w will make much noticeable difference at all?
> 
> Thanks


We give a range because the actual viscosity of oils varies greatly between brands. So most 5-10wt rated oils we've tested work equally well.

In general I think you want higher viscosity for warmer climes and lower for colder/winter. But that doesn't really take into account the disparity between brands above. But if you were looking at different weights from the same brand, the above applies.

It's a balance, a higher viscosity will coat and stick to surfaces better, but at a certain point that "stickiness" is detrimental. So that 5-10wt range is what we think works best.

We use Torco RFF 7. Which I'm told (anecdotally) is technically more of a "5."


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jazzanova said:


> Haow does this coil fork work for lighter riders?
> Considering there are only 3 springs...


There are 5 springs. But only 3 come with the fork.

At 140 you are going to be towards the extreme end of the 170mm Ribbon Coil with a x-soft spring. So it's gonna come down to preference whether it "works" for you or not - as there isn't a way to soften it up further. I don't have a firsthand experience of someone your weight I can draw from, but I have 155-160 pound guys on the light spring at that travel that like it, so I don't think an x-soft at 140 would be wayyy off.

I'll see if I can find any locals at your weight, with that spring, and that travel.


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## Cary (Dec 29, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> We give a range because the actual viscosity of oils varies greatly between brands. So most 5-10wt rated oils we've tested work equally well.
> 
> In general I think you want higher viscosity for warmer climes and lower for colder/winter. But that doesn't really take into account the disparity between brands above. But if you were looking at different weights from the same brand, the above applies.
> 
> ...


Oils should be specified by their thickness in centistokes at 40c. It is the only accurate way to do so. Torco RFF 7 is 19.98 cst @ 40c (the older formula was 16.1), which is a bit heavier than many "5w" oils. Most manufactures are using 14-16 cst oils now in their cartridge forks, but if the bath lube is shared in an open damper fork will use and tune for a 25-45 cst fluid for adequate film strength for the bushings. Straight bath oils are normally 25 cst up to over 100 cst, with WPL shockboost at 69 cst, Fox Gold 20w at 98.9, and Motorex Supergliss at 103. DVO uses Spectro 125/150 in their lowers with a cst of 26 at 40c, so you can see there is a large variance for lowers.

Alternatives to the RFF 7 that are easily available:

1) Maxima Fork Fluid or Plush 5w (18.6 cst)
2) Whistler Performance Lubes 2.5 or 5w (16.5 cst & 20.8 cst)
3) Golden Spectro Cartridge Fork Fluid 85/150 (16.2 cst)
4) Bel Ray omitted because they don't make their current weight information easily available. 
5) Silkoline omitted because not available in the US or Canada.

*Noah, you have a chance to do it correctly.* You could put in your owners guide and service instructions something like the following: "For fork cartridge fluids, we recommend using quality suspension/fork oils with a thickness of between 15-20 cst @ 40c, commonly denoted as 5w oils. Use of lighter oils for cold weather and/or lighter riders will not harm the cartridge. For lowers we recommend using a non cartridge suspension fluid or motor oil of greater than 25cst @ 40c, which are commonly identified as 20w fork oil or engine oil in grades Xw-30 or Xw-40."

P.S.- You owe me a sticker now. :^)


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## sspiff (Jan 12, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> There are 5 springs. But only 3 come with the fork.
> 
> At 140 you are going to be towards the extreme end of the 170mm Ribbon Coil with a x-soft spring. So it's gonna come down to preference whether it "works" for you or not - as there isn't a way to soften it up further. I don't have a firsthand experience of someone your weight I can draw from, but I have 155-160 pound guys on the light spring at that travel that like it, so I don't think an x-soft at 140 would be wayyy off.
> 
> I'll see if I can find any locals at your weight, with that spring, and that travel.


This isn't what I want to hear... I weigh in at 140 lbs after a burrito and have been thinking of replacing my 140mm Stage with a ribbon coil. This may still be okay but I'd want the option to go to 160mm in the future. Maybe update the weight chart? According to it 170mm travel at 140 pounds is smack dab in the middle of the range for the extra soft spring.

Besides travel considerations, is there anything else between the 275/29 chassis that would change weight recommendations?

If you need someone semi local to beat themselves up testing the lower limit of the x-soft Spring, I'd be much obliged!


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## jetboy2003 (Apr 26, 2004)

Mach 5.5 air or coil? Mostly XC/Trail riding around here.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

sspiff said:


> This isn't what I want to hear... I weigh in at 140 lbs after a burrito and have been thinking of replacing my 140mm Stage with a ribbon coil. This may still be okay but I'd want the option to go to 160mm in the future. Maybe update the weight chart? According to it 170mm travel at 140 pounds is smack dab in the middle of the range for the extra soft spring.


Well I was speaking of 170mm of travel @ 140lbs. I don't have any reservations about 140mm of travel at 140lbs (x-soft spring, some might even like soft). I don't really have reservations about accommodating 140lbs @ 160mm either. It's really just the combination of 140lbs (or lighter) and 170mm of travel.

Whereas heavier riders can go down another rate, if you're light and already on the x-soft spring and it's not plush/soft enough for your tastes, there's no additional path to make it softer. So I don't want be the guy to be like "yeah, no problem" without knowing someone's performance desires.

The spring chart is simply a suggestion, not gospel. The majority of riders on the Ribbon Coil that I've surveyed fit appropriately into it in respect to their setup and preferences. But, there are outliers. If you look at this thread there are riders who have installed springs much lighter than the chart would indicate they SHOULD be on.

With a rear shock, there is a generally agreed upon sag percentage you're after and it's most often set in a seated position. Easy peasy.

For a fork there is a wider variance in sag preferences and sag is set in the the attack position - which varies greatly between riders based on a number of factors (weight distribution, bike size/height, cockpit setup, etc.). Too many variables to simply say "X amount of travel and X body weight WILL use X spring."

It's important to note that the springs do not change with travel. So taking preload out of the equation, if you have say 28mm of sag on the medium spring at 140mm of travel, if you bump that fork up to 160mm, and make no other changes, you'll still have 28mm of sag (honestly, maybe slightly less if the resulting geometry change shifts your weight back).

The hardest folks to accommodate broadly for - across the spectrum of setup preferences - would be light riders on long travel and heavier riders on short travel.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Cary said:


> *Noah, you have a chance to do it correctly.* You could put in your owners guide and service instructions something like the following: "For fork cartridge fluids, we recommend using quality suspension/fork oils with a thickness of between 15-20 cst @ 40c, commonly denoted as 5w oils. Use of lighter oils for cold weather and/or lighter riders will not harm the cartridge. For lowers we recommend using a non cartridge suspension fluid or motor oil of greater than 25cst @ 40c, which are commonly identified as 20w fork oil or engine oil in grades Xw-30 or Xw-40."
> 
> P.S.- You owe me a sticker now. :^)


That's a lot of slick information! 

I'll run it by the engineers, thanks.

Happy to send a sticker!


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Been on my Coil Ribbon for about half a dozen rides. I'm 145lbs soaking wet, 155-160lbs with gear. The soft spring is perfect for me. I ride aggressive and don't like to blow through all my travel unless I hit a jump wrong. Like Noah mentioned, the last few mm of travel is for those oh sh!t moments. The more I ride this fork the plusher it gets. For a brief time, I considered the extra soft spring, but after breaking it in the soft spring is great.


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## Max Gough (Apr 17, 2010)

*Ribbon Coil + Push 11.6*

So I just fitted my Ribbon Coil and thought I'd post a photo 

Is anyone else running this fork with an 11.6 out back, and if so how are you finding it?

As Sod's Law dictates, now that my bike is finally back together and ready to rip, I'm recovering from a smashed collarbone and won't be able to try it out for another few weeks. Ah well.


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

Question for you Noah. I have the ribbon air on my nimble9 and a 170 stage on my balance had the balance first and before the ribbon was out. Can the stage be set up with the coil conversion from the ribbon 


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> I don't have any definitive answer for you unfortunately. Temperature does effect pressure and fluid viscosity, so I suppose that could be a part of it.
> 
> Most importantly, how does it feel? Have you been able to get a solid ride on it? It does take a little while for any fork to break-in. Due to our QC processes, our forks generally feel more broken-in out of the box than others.
> 
> Also, are you eye-balling that 10mm or measuring it? Have you measured the travel you're getting after a ride?


Thanks for taking the time to address this on here. Just a quick follow up, I spoke with someone in service at MRP the other day and he thought it might be the top out bumper not being fully seated. Suggestion was to ride it for a month or so and see if it seats and the "dead zone" goes away. Work for me.

Fork seems great otherwise, just that little notch at the top.


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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

Its a #newbikeday for me today and spec'ed an MRP coil. I swapped to the soft spring and went for its first ride tonight. When I hit anything hard, the damper side sounds like its sucking in gobs of air on the return stroke. Just cycling through the suspension setting sag etc its fine. It rides fine and adjusting rebound is working.

This quick vid shows normal compression/no noise, then bigger compression with noise.

Thoughts?


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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

Max Gough said:


> So I just fitted my Ribbon Coil and thought I'd post a photo
> 
> Is anyone else running this fork with an 11.6 out back, and if so how are you finding it?
> 
> ...


Easy to spot a fellow kiwi/wellingtonian when rocking wheelworks wheels (I have a couple of sets myself ). Nice bike.

I just got my mrp coil on my Nomad today and am now waiting for Push to do an N4 kit to put my 116 on it but in the meantime have the RS Super Delux coil shock at mo, and after the first ride tonight - the front end now feels like it matches the rear which I couldn't do with my Pike / 116 on my last bike. Your setup will be awesome I reckon.

Get well soon max, this nice weather we are having probably won't last long 

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Raleighguy29 said:


> Question for you Noah. I have the ribbon air on my nimble9 and a 170 stage on my balance had the balance first and before the ribbon was out. Can the stage be set up with the coil conversion from the ribbon


Sorry, no. The two forks have different stanchion sizes.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiwim5 said:


> Its a #newbikeday for me today and spec'ed an MRP coil. I swapped to the soft spring and went for its first ride tonight. When I hit anything hard, the damper side sounds like its sucking in gobs of air on the return stroke. Just cycling through the suspension setting sag etc its fine. It rides fine and adjusting rebound is working.
> 
> This quick vid shows normal compression/no noise, then bigger compression with noise.
> 
> Thoughts?


Hmm. Not sure what that is. I'll share it with the engineers and see if we have any ideas. Did you swap the spring through the bottom of the stanchion, or pull it our from the top? It almost sounds like spring rattle to me.


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## nwenn (Sep 29, 2005)

29 x 3 Chupacabra on 45mm id rims (Sun Mulefut 50, 2016 Trek Stache 7 stock wheel) just clears. Probably too tight?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry, no. The two forks have different stanchion sizes.


That's what I thought but had to ask. Thanks for the reply

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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

Thanks Noah - through bottom.

Yeah initially I thought it was the spring but but 95% sure my scientific test of getting the ear close to both sides suggest its damper side and its only return stroke, not compression. 

When I get home tonight, I might pull apart again and see what checks I can do.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiwim5 said:


> Thanks Noah - through bottom.
> 
> Yeah initially I thought it was the spring but but 95% sure my scientific test of getting the ear close to both sides suggest its damper side and its only return stroke, not compression.
> 
> When I get home tonight, I might pull apart again and see what checks I can do.


Did you grease the spring up real good?

Might also just be a byproduct of the test you're doing there, pushing hard into the fork then taking it off the ground without any resistance. Just an idea.


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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

Plenty of grease - its not the spring side though.

Pulled apart and put back together - nothing obvious. But what points to it being damper side, other than fact that sound is coming from there, is that with slowest rebound, air suck noise is more obvious and longer in duration. When I had lowers off, I compressed the spring only side and it didnt make any noise on decompression.

The problem is not the environment - I took the bike/fork out for its first ride last night and the first bump I hit, it made the noise. Bigger the hit, bigger the noise. So when I got home I did the vid and checked where sound was coming from. 

Just dropped it back off to the LBS who didnt think it was right either so its off the WideOpen boys here in NZ to sort.


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## askibum02 (Jul 7, 2005)

How does the Ribbon Coil do with heavier riders? I'm 255-260 in gear and currently have a Pike. I've been messing with it for over two months now and still can't get it to a point where I like it. How does the coil compare to the Push ACS-3? At my weight would I be better off with an air fork?


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

askibum02 said:


> How does the Ribbon Coil do with heavier riders? I'm 255-260 in gear and currently have a Pike. I've been messing with it for over two months now and still can't get it to a point where I like it. How does the coil compare to the Push ACS-3? At my weight would I be better off with an air fork?


Heavier riders need coil to overcome the sacrifices that air suspensions mandate. With air, you'll always be trying to get small bump compliance while keeping it from bottoming out - usually you have to choose which one you want to have (small bump or bigger hit). Then there is the mid-stroke dive...if you've got the fork setup to be supple off the top, you'll find it dives and blows through mid stroke on steps or steeps or gouts...
@askibum02 - 
I'm a bit lighter than you at 240 kitted up (so between springs) and have been running the X-FIRM coil. Benefits over the lyrik - rides higher in the travel while remaining supple, doesn't dive, haven't bottomed it out yet. I should probably try to go down a spring and see how that rides, but I cannot be bothered just yet.

Go coil (front and rear)...the MRP Ribbon blows my lyrik away for suppleness and damping characteristics.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Did you grease the spring up real good?
> 
> Might also just be a byproduct of the test you're doing there, pushing hard into the fork then taking it off the ground without any resistance. Just an idea.


Noah, about grease.. I changed the medium spring for the soft, and I'm noticing a small stiction when pushing slowly throughout the initial 50mm of travel.. I feel is the spring.... I used Maxima 5wt oil (for the stanchions) and phil wood grease for the spring...Would I be ok using SRAM butter for the spring ? I took apart the fork againa and saw that the phil wood grease was melted... cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiwim5 said:


> Just dropped it back off to the LBS who didnt think it was right either so its off the WideOpen boys here in NZ to sort.


Genuinely sorry for your trouble. Hopefully the Wideopen boys can remedy it, if not we'll do whatever we can. Cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

luisgutierod said:


> Noah, about grease.. I changed the medium spring for the soft, and I'm noticing a small stiction when pushing slowly throughout the initial 50mm of travel.. I feel is the spring.... I used Maxima 5wt oil (for the stanchions) and phil wood grease for the spring...Would I be ok using SRAM butter for the spring ? I took apart the fork againa and saw that the phil wood grease was melted... cheers


Howdy!

I don't think spring grease will contribute to stiction in any way, unless it's been really overdone. If the grease you used has slid off the spring, I'd go up in viscosity, not down. I think SRAM Butter will be too thin and will not adhere to the spring in the long run, which will contribute to spring noise.

Did you adequately clean and lube your wipers?

What are you running for preload? As discussed earlier, preload raises the force required to initiate travel. Is that what you're feeling? The reason that elevated starting force is acceptable is that you should already be into travel via sag.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy!
> 
> I don't think spring grease will contribute to stiction in any way, unless it's been really overdone. If the grease you used has slid off the spring, I'd go up in viscosity, not down. I think SRAM Butter will be too thin and will not adhere to the spring in the long run, which will contribute to spring noise.
> 
> ...


thanks Noah, .. Im not running any preload. the Initial travel to sag is smooth however pushing it deeper in the travel I notice these sort of "steps", like friction both pressing and letting it go back (thats why I think the spring against the stanchion friction is the cause). Again, with very little force. I dont notice anything when riding it, perhaps because of lack of sensitivity or it just doesnt happen with full body weight and riding forces..I'll try to get a video of it. I just think I greased it generously but it was the only grease I had at the moment. Regarding seal and wipers, they are clean and lubed, I'm familiar with that, just not that much with greasing the springs...cheers.


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## SyT (Jul 27, 2005)

Is the shrink wrap being compressed between the coils? I don't have a Ribbon but I ended up cutting the wrap off both of the springs I use because I had been chasing down inconsistent compression and ramping effect. That fixed it.
Edit: I now see you have the problem on rebound as well. Likely a different issue than I was experiencing.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

I put a Ribbon Coil on my Guerilla Gravity Shred Dogg on Saturday. It replaced a Suntour Auron which was a decent fork.

My extremely scientific measurement of holding a fork in each hand indicated that the Ribbon was a bit lighter than the air-sprung Auron. That was a cool surprise.

I didn't have a lot of time available and so took it to my neighborhood trails which have quite a few roots, a couple of smallish drops, and a big rock roll. There was too much mucky mud to get very much speed going. The fork is stupendously smooth! Roots just sort of disappear and the drops were like falling onto a pillow. The rock roll has something of a hole at the bottom run-out which can toss you if your fork dives too much. The Ribbon ate it up and all was well. Again, super-smooth.

I didn't use any ramp control just yet, but will when I get to some better trails.

Even with this little test it appears that the Ribbon Coil is far better than any other fork that I've used.


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

Has anyone installed a Marshguard or Mudhugger type fender on the Ribbon. Where I am, I can't do without one. What is the largest 29 tire that fits?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Picture of a Chupa mounted on a wide rim a few posts up, jury out on 'fit'.
I've had the complimentary Huck Norris fender on no problem.


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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Genuinely sorry for your trouble. Hopefully the Wideopen boys can remedy it, if not we'll do whatever we can. Cheers


All good - it was too good opportunity to miss asking you rather than hitting the warranty button straight away. Cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> Has anyone installed a Marshguard or Mudhugger type fender on the Ribbon.


Yeah, no problems. Used a Mucky Nuts and a similar one I got from Maxxis.


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## Machianera (Feb 5, 2011)

rscecil007 said:


> Thanks for the feedback MK.


Unfortunately they did not include the ribbon or stage (please send them one!) but German Freeride Magazine tested few forks back in 2015 (pre boost) and the dvo diamond was the stiffest (heaviest fork in the group) fox 36 and formula 35 (the lightest) were right behind, much further back was the pike.

They have a new test up on the site, it seems the boost forks are heavier but not as stiff as the 100.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, no problems. Used a Mucky Nuts and a similar one I got from Maxxis.


I use a Mucky Nuts which is practically a requirement here in the PNW.


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

I have a question about my ribbon coil fork, I took it apart to change the spring to the soft spring, and when I put it back together I found that the rebound and ramp control have more adjustment than stated. Also when the lsc is turned to max, the fork knocks before it goes into it's travel. Has anyone had this issue? Have I done something wrong when the fork was in pieces?
Other than that, it's the best fork I've ever ridden


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

anythingmtb said:


> I have a question about my ribbon coil fork, I took it apart to change the spring to the soft spring, and when I put it back together I found that the rebound and ramp control have more adjustment than stated. Also when the lsc is turned to max, the fork knocks before it goes into it's travel. Has anyone had this issue? Have I done something wrong when the fork was in pieces?
> Other than that, it's the best fork I've ever ridden


I can't comment on the LSC but I did notice that the rebound and ramp have more clicks than stated on the sticker.


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

AOK said:


> I can't comment on the LSC but I did notice that the rebound and ramp have more clicks than stated on the sticker.


Do you know roughly how many? I'm getting 32 out of the ramp control and 28 out of rebound....


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

anythingmtb said:


> I have a question about my ribbon coil fork, I took it apart to change the spring to the soft spring, and when I put it back together I found that the rebound and ramp control have more adjustment than stated. Also when the lsc is turned to max, the fork knocks before it goes into it's travel. Has anyone had this issue? Have I done something wrong when the fork was in pieces?
> Other than that, it's the best fork I've ever ridden


Sounds like you might have accidentally introduced air into the damper by partially pulling out the rebound needle when you unthreaded the damper screw before removing the lowers. That would account for the deadspot with max LSC. Did you fully close the rebound (max, clockwise) before removing the knob?

Contact us direct for resolution [email protected]


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Sounds like you might have accidentally introduced air into the damper by partially pulling out the rebound needle when you unthreaded the damper screw before removing the lowers. That would account for the deadspot with max LSC. Did you fully close the rebound (max, clockwise) before removing the knob?
> 
> Contact us direct for resolution [email protected]


Noah - any comment on the rebound / ramp knobs having more clicks than stated on the sticker? IIRC my rebound knob had about 24 clicks total. Also is the LSC knob supposed to have defined "clicks"? Mine turns freely but doesn't click as it goes around.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Noah what happens if you don't fully close the rebound before moving the Knob?


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Sounds like you might have accidentally introduced air into the damper by partially pulling out the rebound needle when you unthreaded the damper screw before removing the lowers. That would account for the deadspot with max LSC. Did you fully close the rebound (max, clockwise) before removing the knob?
> 
> Contact us direct for resolution [email protected]


The rebound was fully closed and then when the knob was unscrewed from the damper rod, I wound it all the way in and a half turn back as instructed.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

alan1 said:


> Noah what happens if you don't fully close the rebound before moving the Knob?


Turning it fully closed just reduces the chance that you unthread the rebound needle completely. As you unthread the damper screw assembly, you are also turning the rebound needle unless - you're using the rebound knob tool or otherwise holding the position. If you unthread the damper screw assembly fully from the damper rod, and instead of pulling the damper screw assembly straight out, you keep unthreading, eventually you just pull the whole needle out.

So if you start the process very open on rebound you increase the likelihood of accidentally pulling the needle out. Make sense?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

anythingmtb said:


> The rebound was fully closed and then when the knob was unscrewed from the damper rod, I wound it all the way in and a half turn back as instructed.


Then it could be something else. Definitely contact us through the e-mail above so you can talk to a tech, we'll get it sorted.


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Then it could be something else. Definitely contact us through the e-mail above so you can talk to a tech, we'll get it sorted.


Have done cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

AOK said:


> Noah - any comment on the rebound / ramp knobs having more clicks than stated on the sticker? IIRC my rebound knob had about 24 clicks total. Also is the LSC knob supposed to have defined "clicks"? Mine turns freely but doesn't click as it goes around.


We just like to underpromise and overdeliver. JK

The total number of clicks kinda floats based on manufacturing tolerances, but the USABLE range does not. Rebound recommendations (and Ramp Control for the coil) are given from fully clockwise (max). And max is max is max. There'd no difference in one forks max to another forks max (within reason), even if their total click count differs.

Also keep in mind that the min and max positions rarely fall EXACTLY on a detent, so we don't count those as clicks. I haven't felt a fork that didn't have at least 18 clicks of rebound and 20 clicks of Ramp Control (coil). If you have, say, 23 clicks of rebound, those additional 5 positions are so "open" there not considered usable.

*All that said, it's probably time for us to survey outgoing forks and take an average of their ranges to make sure they haven't drifted well outside our indicated tuning ranges. I'll post an update to this thread if i find that in the coming weeks.*

Including the range on the tuning decal is meant to help you with tuning, not be a definitive description. Knowing roughly what the total range is gives you an idea where the middle is and proportionally how much each click will likely change feel. Obviously on an adjuster with 50 clicks, one or two clicks will be virtually indecipherable. But on a range of 8 clicks, one or two would be meaningful.

Regarding the compression knob, that click system is different as the detent stops are machined into the bottom of the knob. So every fork should have 8 clicks (again, we don't count the positions beyond the stops on either end). Your fork should have discernible clicks. Things that would prevent that are:

A loose knob
Dirt or grit under the cap


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## AOK (Jan 25, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> We just like to underpromise and overdeliver. JK
> 
> The total number of clicks kinda floats based on manufacturing tolerances, but the USABLE range does not. Rebound recommendations (and Ramp Control for the coil) are given from fully clockwise (max). And max is max is max. There'd no difference in one forks max to another forks max (within reason), even if their total click count differs.
> 
> ...


Great explanation Noah. Thanks!

I emailed [email protected] about the LSC knob clicks.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Does anyone knows what wrong with MRP site?

mrpbike.com - is not loading.


----------



## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

ka81ua said:


> Does anyone knows what wrong with MRP site?
> 
> mrpbike.com - is not loading.


seems fine now:

The Website Is Down


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Nope.. ((


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## bhmax (Dec 7, 2010)

Works for me.


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

Is it possible there are some region block?
Russia


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Maybe Putin doesn't want you to experience coil in case it causes a revolution?


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## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

B Rabbit said:


> Maybe Putin doesn't want you to experience coil in case it causes a revolution?


that was brilliant, seriuosly, another one genious.

Anyway, found out that problem from website its own, some tech problems with DNS for Rus region...


----------



## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

ka81ua said:


> that was brilliant, seriuosly, another one genious.
> .


Was just a joke didn't mean to offend.......and it's spelt genius


----------



## ka81ua (Oct 14, 2014)

B Rabbit said:


> Was just a joke didn't mean to offend.......


forget it, I don't even care about some P, T or any other f//ers.



B Rabbit said:


> and it's spelt genius


as for my third NOT native language learnt only by myself (didn't have to but still learnt) - I guess my pronouncation and grammar is not very bad. )


----------



## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Right......

Anyway, how's everyone getting on with their Ribbon Coils? Mine continues to impress It's so good everywhere! 
I have had it fitted to a Patrol carbon but I now have a N4 on the way, I think it's going to be a pretty unstoppable combination!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I think digital pumps are handy for fine tuning. They just seem to make it easier to try 1-2 psi changes.
> 
> We use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Fork-S...1500579757&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+digital+pump
> 
> They're the same make and model that's been relabeled by a few brands. We've purchased four and all but one is still working flawlessly after six months of daily use. I left one in direct sunlight, in a vehicle, and probably cooked it.


Can anyone tell me if the MRP Ribbon is torque cap compatible?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

B Rabbit said:


> Right......
> 
> Anyway, how's everyone getting on with their Ribbon Coils? Mine continues to impress It's so good everywhere!
> I have had it fitted to a Patrol carbon but I now have a N4 on the way, I think it's going to be a pretty unstoppable combination!


Good to hear! I still move mine, my only issue is that it gives me confidence to take lines my wheels and tires REALLY hate. LOL.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Can anyone tell me if the MRP Ribbon is torque cap compatible?


I can! It's not. Sorry.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I think digital pumps are handy for fine tuning. They just seem to make it easier to try 1-2 psi changes.
> 
> We use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Fork-S...1500579757&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+digital+pump
> 
> They're the same make and model that's been relabeled by a few brands. We've purchased four and all but one is still working flawlessly after six months of daily use. I left one in direct sunlight, in a vehicle, and probably cooked it.





NoahColorado said:


> I can! It's not. Sorry.


Thanks Noah! Not a problem. I was looking at a set of Santa Cruz wheels and its an option for the same cost as standard caps. So not a deal breaker.


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

I havs spent so much time in this thread and I can't wait holding my ribbon coil in my hands. I hope that it will arrive in Austria soon!

@NoahColorado
I have never seen any MRP forks on our trails so far here in Austria! It's likely that I will be the only one here within a 100km+ radius riding one of your forks! You can be proud! ;-) I have never ridden or even touched it....only cought a glimpse of it at the Eurobike. I fully trust you - so my expectations are high! I am excited to see if it can stand our harsh Austrian trails, hehehehe


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

one ribbon air in vienna  

loving it, not planning to uprade just yet, but just for information, where could I get the coil conversion kit?


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

bertil said:


> one ribbon air in vienna
> 
> loving it, not planning to uprade just yet, but just for information, where could I get the coil conversion kit?


here: Everyday26


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

luisgutierod said:


> thanks Noah, .. Im not running any preload. the Initial travel to sag is smooth however pushing it deeper in the travel I notice these sort of "steps", like friction both pressing and letting it go back (thats why I think the spring against the stanchion friction is the cause). Again, with very little force. I dont notice anything when riding it, perhaps because of lack of sensitivity or it just doesnt happen with full body weight and riding forces..I'll try to get a video of it. I just think I greased it generously but it was the only grease I had at the moment. Regarding seal and wipers, they are clean and lubed, I'm familiar with that, just not that much with greasing the springs...cheers.


so I think this "issue" is not an issue at all. I was getting this sort of stiction but only when slowly pushing the fork on the bike, Riding the bike everything is OK, I have dialed spring and preload adn everything else. I guess the angle when pushing it slowly on the bike makes it rub slightly more (spring or stanchions against seal, who knows) but when compressing it vertically out of the bike, everything is buttery smooth. Thats why I was asking for the greasing... anyways, maybe some breaking in period was needed. Now I get that same feeling I remember when on an old coil R2C2 Boxxer .
By the way that low speed compression knob you better back it out before going downhill, it almost blocks the fork completely !

cheers.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

luisgutierod said:


> so I think this "issue" is not an issue at all.


Awesome, great to hear!

I try to warn people not to draw too many conclusions from or tune too much based on "parking lot" feel. Particularly with the Ribbon Coil, it shines on the trail! Those accustomed to the feel of large negative air springs in modern forks are sometimes put off by how "firm" the coil system feels just pushing on it, but then are blown away because that does not in the least bit carryover to real riding.

For air forks, often riders will setup their forks to feel so plush in the parking lot that when you start riding them aggressively, the fork kinda "sits" in the progressive part of the stroke which then translates to a harsh ride. Then a rider will further soften their fork to try and alleviate this and it only gets worse AND they start having to tame bottom-out (usually by volume adjustment)...which then only makes their fork MORE progressive and more harsh.

That's to say nothing of the other pitfalls of parking lot tuning, like simulating forces/situations that don't occur on the trail....


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Now THIS should be epic!!! 

Coil front and back, what a time to be alive!


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

I'm in for the Ribbon coil. 

MRP - Nice guys to deal with. Looking forward to getting it in my hands.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> For air forks, often riders will setup their forks to feel so plush in the parking lot that when you start riding them aggressively, the fork kinda "sits" in the progressive part of the stroke which then translates to a harsh ride. Then a rider will further soften their fork to try an alleviate this and it only get worse AND they start having to tame bottom-out (usually by volume adjustment)...which then only makes their fork MORE progressive and more harsh.


I didn't know about this. That should help me better tune the air forks on my wife's and son's bikes.

Not a worry for my bike with the Ribbon Coil.

Also, I had it out at the local bike park last Sunday and it was amazing! So smooth and took a couple big hits quite well.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> Awesome, great to hear!
> 
> I try to warn people not to draw too many conclusions from or tune too much based on "parking lot" feel. Particularly with the Ribbon Coil, it shines on the trail! Those accustomed to the feel of large negative air springs in modern forks are sometimes put off by how "firm" the coil system feels just pushing on it, but then are blown away because that does not in the least bit carryover to real riding.
> 
> ...


Truth. More than once I was lulled into thinking a lower psi was the answer to a better ride. Then the fork, not only not feeling smoother, became divey, I upped the psi to more than I started with and - there it was, a much better feeling fork. Happened on my Pike and my Boxxer.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Miker J said:


> I'm in for the Ribbon coil.
> 
> MRP - Nice guys to deal with. Looking forward to getting it in my hands.


You won't regret it - I'm faster than ever on my endorphin. Coil IL & Ribbon Coil front are a good match.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*New Videos Online*

Hi y'all,

We have two new service videos for the Ribbon Coil online. We have the air-to-coil and spring swap procedures here:

Ribbon Air-to-Coil Conversion / Instructions
Ribbon Coil Spring Change Video / Instructions

We'll have the travel change video uploaded soon as well, but you can see that process in the middle of the "Air-to-Coil Conversion" video right now.

In the coming months we'll have a new website with more technical information and content. But for now, check those out and don't hesitate to shoot us an e-mail if you need any help [email protected]


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## rpearce1475 (Jan 24, 2015)

Have a ribbon coil en route for a new bike build, and from looking at the spring rate charts it looks like I'm at the upper limit of medium spring/lower limit of firm spring. Anyone in the same boat? Would I be better off with the medium spring with more preload, or the firm spring with little/no preload?


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

rpearce1475 said:


> Have a ribbon coil en route for a new bike build, and from looking at the spring rate charts it looks like I'm at the upper limit of medium spring/lower limit of firm spring. Anyone in the same boat? Would I be better off with the medium spring with more preload, or the firm spring with little/no preload?


I'm at 218lbs geared up with a firm spring. First ride today with no ramp and no compression on a 160mm fork and I'm 25mm from full 160mm of travel on the same trail I was with 5mm from full travel with the air fork. I'm guessing I need a medium.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rorhound said:


> I'm at 218lbs geared up with a firm spring. First ride today with no ramp and no compression on a 160mm fork and I'm 25mm from full 160mm of travel on the same trail I was with 5mm from full travel with the air fork. I'm guessing I need a medium.


Howdy, I'd give it more than one ride before swapping to a medium, unless you're just jonesing to get back into your fork. 

Is this the most aggressive trail you ride?

Where's your sag?

How did it perform in general? Did it ever feel harsh or overly firm?


----------



## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy, I'd give it more than one ride before swapping to a medium, unless you're just jonesing to get back into your fork.
> 
> Is this the most aggressive trail you ride?
> 
> ...


Not the most aggressive however it does have one G-Out which would use 155mm (saved 5mm for those "OH $HIT" moments) on the Ribbon air and is using 135mm now with the coil conversion. Trying it Saturday on a more aggressive trail which also used 155mm travel with air.

38mm of sag on 160 travel, so just under 25% sag.

It actually felt great everywhere however I was just wondering if it could get even better on the small stuff? I was thinking a softer spring would allow me to use some of the adjustments instead of having the ramp and compression wide open.

Also, the instructions said to use 18mm for 160 however the video says 15mm?

Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rorhound said:


> Not the most aggressive however it does have one G-Out which would use 155mm (saved 5mm for those "OH $HIT" moments) on the Ribbon air and is using 135mm now with the coil conversion. Trying it Saturday on a more aggressive trail which also used 155mm travel with air.
> 
> 38mm of sag on 160 travel, so just under 25% sag.
> 
> ...


Cool

Just keep in mind that air and coil have different spring curves, so they're not going to use travel the same way. The coil provides more mid-stroke support, which probably accounts for it NOT blowing through travel on your g-out example.

A lighter spring might help with small bump performance, but it's going to come at the expense of sag - and you're already at ~25% with the firm. As well, adding compression damping won't improve small bump, if that's something your after.

Spring seat depth should be 15, not 18mm. 18mm was for an earlier part spec. Did you get these instructions with your kit or something else? I may need to check that assembly is including the correct, updated instructions.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

Didn’t get those instructions. I got two pages printed on both sides. 1st page had written instructions front and back while the second page had 27.5 spring rod drawings with measurements for different travels on one side and ditto on the other side for 27.5 plus and 29. 

Both written and picture say 18mm for 27.5. 

I’ll change it to 15. 

Thanks for the info!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rorhound said:


> Didn't get those instructions. I got two pages printed on both sides. 1st page had written instructions front and back while the second page had 27.5 spring rod drawings with measurements for different travels on one side and ditto on the other side for 27.5 plus and 29.
> 
> Both written and picture say 18mm for 27.5.
> 
> ...


Sorry about that! You'll get 3mm more travel now! Don't let it go to your head! Haha


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry about that! You'll get 3mm more travel now! Don't let it go to your head! Haha


* LESS travel, right? Also, mine used a 14mm wrench instead of a 15mm.

Haven't had a chance to hit the trails with my coil setup so far but just doing a short loop I was pretty blown away at the small bump. Can't wait to get it out for a proper spin!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> * LESS travel, right?


The shorter the distance from the rod end to the spring seat, the greater the travel.


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## EvilBkr (Mar 14, 2006)

I just ordered a Ribbon Air today! 29" 150mm 46mm offset for my Banshee Prime...I'm excited to get it setup and start tuning! Noah and MRP you folks have amazing customer service!


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> The shorter the distance from the rod end to the spring seat, the greater the travel.


 oops, misunderstood what you were saying... You mean that after adjusting it to 15mm he will get the extra 3mm of travel 

Actually the coolest thing about this fork. I made sure to set mine at 164.98mm of travel which is where it gives the absolute best level of performance on my bike!


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

I set mine to 165.17 today. Cats meow! 😂😂


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## Pb-2-Au (Sep 9, 2014)

kiwim5 said:


> Its a #newbikeday for me today and spec'ed an MRP coil. I swapped to the soft spring and went for its first ride tonight. When I hit anything hard, the damper side sounds like its sucking in gobs of air on the return stroke. Just cycling through the suspension setting sag etc its fine. It rides fine and adjusting rebound is working.
> 
> This quick vid shows normal compression/no noise, then bigger compression with noise.
> 
> Thoughts?


Hey kiwim5, have you found a resolution to this air sucking noise? I just got the Ribbon Coil and noticed that my fork makes the same sound on the rebound...I noticed that it is worst when rebound damping is maxxed out and lessens (eventually disappears) as I remove damping. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet as I'm still waiting on wheels but I hope my rebound damping will be set at a point where this whooshing sound is not so noticeable on the trails.

My Pike makes a similar sound however is much less noticeable. Maybe this is completely normal for the damping system??


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Pb-2-Au said:


> Hey kiwim5, have you found a resolution to this air sucking noise? I just got the Ribbon Coil and noticed that my fork makes the same sound on the rebound...I noticed that it is worst when rebound damping is maxxed out and lessens (eventually disappears) as I remove damping. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet as I'm still waiting on wheels but I hope my rebound damping will be set at a point where this whooshing sound is not so noticeable on the trails.
> 
> My Pike makes a similar sound however is much less noticeable. Maybe this is completely normal for the damping system??


I have a Stage and Ribbon coil, both makes noises. I believe Noah has mentioned this. It does not affect performance at all. It's just a loud damper compared to the other forks but rides so much better.


----------



## Pb-2-Au (Sep 9, 2014)

ScottieM8 said:


> I have a Stage and Ribbon coil, both makes noises. I believe Noah has mentioned this. It does not affect performance at all. It's just a loud damper compared to the other forks but rides so much better.


I must have missed Noahs post...if that's just how the damper is designed I'm totally cool with that. Atleast now I can hear the fork work.

I bet its gonna ride great...the lack of stiction I'm noticing (or rather not noticing) on the Ribbon Coil is insane it really puts my freshly rebuilt Pike to shame.


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## kiwim5 (May 19, 2015)

Pb-2-Au said:


> I must have missed Noahs post...if that's just how the damper is designed I'm totally cool with that. Atleast now I can hear the fork work.
> 
> I bet its gonna ride great...the lack of stiction I'm noticing (or rather not noticing) on the Ribbon Coil is insane it really puts my freshly rebuilt Pike to shame.


The distributor here had a look and didn't find anything wrong. Compared it to a mates Ribbon air and it was louder but seems that once it breaks in, it gets quieter. And everyone said mrp are a little noisy compared to the forks I am used to riding.

So after all that fluffing round, I put it back on and just rode the thing. After the first few rides you tune it out and get too enjoy the goodness of a coil front end 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

I'm getting a little oil seeping from the psst valves. Normal or is something amiss? 

It's very little, but not something I remember the fork doing before. I have the bike flipped upside down for a few minutes the other day to mess with some cable routing if that matters.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Porch said:


> Actually the coolest thing about this fork. I made sure to set mine at 164.98mm of travel which is where it gives the absolute best level of performance on my bike!


If you haven't yet, you should try 164.999, it's unreal!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiotae said:


> I'm getting a little oil seeping from the psst valves. Normal or is something amiss?
> 
> It's very little, but not something I remember the fork doing before. I have the bike flipped upside down for a few minutes the other day to mess with some cable routing if that matters.


If it's just a lil' bit, it's normal. Dirt and dust will make it look more prevalent than it is. Shouldn't be dripping ever, but a little oily vapor is normal. Don't depress the valves when the fork is flipped, but there's no problem flipping it over.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> If it's just a lil' bit, it's normal. Dirt and dust will make it look more prevalent than it is. Shouldn't be dripping ever, but a little oily vapor is normal. Don't depress the valves when the fork is flipped, but there's no problem flipping it over.


Right on, good to know thanks. Not dripping, just a little "wets" the buttons when pressed, probably just didn't notice it before.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I rode the ribbon coil on some very rock trials with lots of square edged hits and baby heads and natural drops (Beacon Hill in Spokane and Syncline in White salmon, WA)

The fork was amazing so stiff and composed with tons of support. So much better than my old pike. I was blown away really. I did have to crank up the ramp control after a hard bottom out (I was pretty low to start with) on a huck to almost flat.

I did notice how loud the damper is, definitely noticeable, but it was working great.


----------



## tangaroo (Jul 17, 2012)

Does the ribbon coil have 5mm travel increments? As in, it could be set to 155mm?


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

tangaroo said:


> Does the ribbon coil have 5mm travel increments? As in, it could be set to 155mm?


Since the spring seat is on a threaded onto the spring rod, there are no discrete travel increments. If I'm not mistaken, travel can be set anywhere between 150mm and 170mm on all the 27.5" Ribbon Coils, and between 140mm and 160mm on the 29"/27+ forks. There are no different length spring rods, no travel spacers, no pin or perch positions. Just thread the spring seat in or out, tighten down its locknut, and put the fork back together.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

lazarus2405 said:


> Since the spring seat is on a threaded onto the spring rod, there are no discrete travel increments. If I'm not mistaken, travel can be set anywhere between 150mm and 170mm on all the 27.5" Ribbon Coils, and between 140mm and 160mm on the 29"/27+ forks. There are no different length spring rods, no travel spacers, no pin or perch positions. Just thread the spring seat in or out, tighten down its locknut, and put the fork back together.


This is correct. I can set my travel to 157mm if I want to match my rear axle spacing.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> This is correct. I can set my travel to 157mm if I want to match my rear axle spacing.


Only until next year when they change it again...


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## macthekife (Jul 14, 2012)

Ribbon coil ordered today. I had 2 awesome years on the stage but I'm very coil curious now


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I converted my Ribbon Air to a coil last week. YUUUUGE difference, much better! The coil is just incredible!

I'd strongly recommend people who are running longer travel (160mm+) to buy the Coil fork. On the shorter travel bikes (140-150mm) I think the Air would have been great.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

is there a damper service guide (PDF) online somewhere?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I delayed my new bike day 3 weeks and switched my order from a 150mm 29er Ribbon air to coil to match the coil rear shock. I'm keen to see how the coil setup compares to my current bike which is air at both ends [Pike + CC DBA[IL]].


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## buddiesconfusion (Feb 7, 2009)

vikb said:


> I delayed my new bike day 3 weeks and switched my order from a 150mm 29er Ribbon air to coil to match the coil rear shock. I'm keen to see how the coil setup compares to my current bike which is air at both ends [Pike + CC DBA[IL]].


Excited to hear what you think. I'm now on the fence about going air vs coil for my Knolly Endorphin. I've heard from some shops that service fork that from 150mm and down the air is amazing and that 160mm and above to look at the coil. Ethan from dirt merchant bicycle also pointed out that he get like the ramp control functioned better or made a bigger difference with the air.

What travel will you be setting your ribbon to on your smash?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

buddiesconfusion said:


> Excited to hear what you think. I'm now on the fence about going air vs coil for my Knolly Endorphin. I've heard from some shops that service fork that from 150mm and down the air is amazing and that 160mm and above to look at the coil. Ethan from dirt merchant bicycle also pointed out that he get like the ramp control functioned better or made a bigger difference with the air.
> 
> What travel will you be setting your ribbon to on your smash?


150mm on the Smash. I think 150mm/140mm with higher volume 29er rubber is about as capable a bike as I can regularly make use of. And saying that it will be road trips to mainland BC and UT/AZ/CO where trails are more likely to be rough and fast where I'll put that bike through its paces. At home trails are rough and steep, but no sustained high speeds.

I had spec'd the Ribbon air with the idea I'd likely switch it to coil mode later on. That would have been the best move for an apples to apples comparison of the forks. Now my only point of reference for a modern air fork is a couple Pikes. That said I think the coil will be a better choice for me so that's what's important.

I'm sure the Ribbon air would be a great fork so all the choices will make you happy even if you might like one version of the Ribbon better than the other. At least you can switch air to coil for something like $200 in parts, but you can't go back. So if you are not feeling certain maybe go air?


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

Travis Bickle said:


> Has anyone installed a Marshguard or Mudhugger type fender on the Ribbon. Where I am, I can't do without one. What is the largest 29 tire that fits?


Mudhugger Shorty on my Ribbon, loves the BC muck. 29, 2.5 DHF no problem.


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Marshguard - DHF WT 2.6 - all good!


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

So, I’ve been dialing in my Ribbon air over the last couple of months and I’m thinking I might have the stiction issue. 

The fork feels good under significant force like standing on the pedals bouncing, 1’ drops and larger.

Problem is, say when trying to set sag, standing in aggressive position, the fork won’t budge. 

I’ve dropped pressure and it feels better but still sticks. 

Is this what folks have experienced? 

150mm air on a GG Smash for reference. 

Thanks




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Brig said:


> So, I've been dialing in my Ribbon air over the last couple of months and I'm thinking I might have the stiction issue.
> 
> The fork feels good under significant force like standing on the pedals bouncing, 1' drops and larger.
> 
> ...


Sounds like mine, but i'm surprised you have it at 150mm (although, that bike is pretty slack). I'd call MRP on Tuesday.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Porch said:


> Sounds like mine, but i'm surprised you have it at 150mm (although, that bike is pretty slack). I'd call MRP on Tuesday.


Thanks. That's the plan.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Brig said:


> Thanks. That's the plan.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just for the heck of it, what pressures are you running? You're aware of how to fill the air spring on this fork? Empty the negative (bottom), fill the positive (top), then add 5-10psi more negative than you put in the positive.

I wouldn't be afraid to run 10-20psi lower than what MRP recommends, especially on a slack bike. On my Balance I was running 60+/68- (185lbs, 160mm travel). Eventually I just converted to a coil.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Porch said:


> Just for the heck of it, what pressures are you running? You're aware of how to fill the air spring on this fork? Empty the negative (bottom), fill the positive (top), then add 5-10psi more negative than you put in the positive.
> 
> I wouldn't be afraid to run 10-20psi lower than what MRP recommends, especially on a slack bike. On my Balance I was running 60+/68- (185lbs, 160mm travel). Eventually I just converted to a coil.


Yeah. I've been filling per the instructions. I most recently lowered the pressure to 68 positive and 74 negative. It feels better in the stroke but takes effort to get it started if that makes sense. I noticed the stiction when playing with pressure and trying to set sag.

I may give it a few rides at this pressure and see if it feels better. Might just need to break in a little as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

If the different pressures don't help you could drop the lowers and lube up the air spring. It's pretty simple, there's a video on how to change the travel and that is exactly what you'll do (minus, of course, changing the spacers). 

That would also give you a chance to change the oil and add lube to the wipers. That would tell you if it's an air spring/seal problem or a bushing problem.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

I’m pretty well versed in fork maintenance. I’ve rebuilt my old pike several times. I’d rather send it in if it’s a QC issue. I’m going to give it a couple of rides at the lower pressure and see if that helps. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brig said:


> So, I've been dialing in my Ribbon air over the last couple of months and I'm thinking I might have the stiction issue.


Did you always feel this way or has it come on as of late? If it's the latter, perhaps you just need to service your fork? A quick lube job goes a long way.

Not saying this is necessarily the case here, but I've seen people try to remedy the feeling of a fork that needs servicing by lowering their pressures, but this only makes the feel worse as you end up riding in the progressive part of the spring curve when you're riding hard. You're not going to get a good sag measurement if the fork's action/smoothness in inhibited by dry seals.

But in any case, we're happy to help. And we're open today, BTW.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Yeah. From the beginning. Less than 10 rides @ less than 10 miles each I would hope a lower leg service wouldn’t be needed. 

I’ll see how it goes with a little lower pressure. It actually starts moving through the travel without bouncing on it now which is nice. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

buddiesconfusion said:


> Excited to hear what you think. I'm now on the fence about going air vs coil for my Knolly Endorphin. I've heard from some shops that service fork that from 150mm and down the air is amazing and that 160mm and above to look at the coil. Ethan from dirt merchant bicycle also pointed out that he get like the ramp control functioned better or made a bigger difference with the air.
> 
> What travel will you be setting your ribbon to on your smash?


Running the MRP coil/CC inline coil on my endorphin and not looking back. Minuscule weight penalty but kicks the **** out of my lyrik.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brig said:


> Yeah. From the beginning. Less than 10 rides @ less than 10 miles each I would hope a lower leg service wouldn't be needed.


Then you very well could benefit from us having a look at it, checking out the dyno numbers, and sizing the bushings again. Hit us up! We'll turn it around quickly.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Then you very well could benefit from us having a look at it, checking out the dyno numbers, and sizing the bushings again. Hit us up! We'll turn it around quickly.


Thanks Noah. I think I'm going to play with the air pressure and go from there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

Anyone know what is up with availability? Was going to order one from Universal Cycles but it's been out of stock for 2-3 weeks.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

adagioca said:


> Anyone know what is up with availability? Was going to order one from Universal Cycles but it's been out of stock for 2-3 weeks.


Check worldwide cyclery...and the MTBR deal thread on them for a 20% off coupon!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Hey guys, I have the Ribbon Air and it has the MRP bolt on axle. I bought th bike used, but every time I try and remove the front wheel, the axle nut spins with the axle. I have to use 2 allen keys (one on either side of the wheel) to remove the wheel.

Do I need to tighten the axle down more to cinch the axle nut into the fork eg better to resolve this issue?


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Porch said:


> Check worldwide cyclery...and the MTBR deal thread on them for a 20% off coupon!


And get cash back on gearobsession.com.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Hey guys, I have the Ribbon Air and it has the MRP bolt on axle. I bought th bike used, but every time I try and remove the front wheel, the axle nut spins with the axle. I have to use 2 allen keys (one on either side of the wheel) to remove the wheel.
> 
> Do I need to tighten the axle down more to cinch the axle nut into the fork eg better to resolve this issue?


Call us and talk to Eric, he's got some fixes for that. The nut could have been greased. 970-241-3518


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## vko (May 16, 2013)

Hi Noah ,
a question about ribbon coil and ramp control. I understand how RC works on the air fork where you have pressurised air but on the coil fork, is it equally effective? From which point of the travel it starts working?
Thank you


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I have found it to be pretty effective. Doing back to back laps with different levels of ramp control i could certainly feel the difference, and the o ring indicated that less travel was used.


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## vko (May 16, 2013)

pedrosalas7 said:


> I have found it to be pretty effective. Doing back to back laps with different levels of ramp control i could certainly feel the difference, and the o ring indicated that less travel was used.


Thank you, I don't doubt it does make a difference but I'd like to have a more technical explanation of how it works.


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

@NoahColorado
Do you have any experience with very low temperatures over a long time? My bbikes are all parked in a small wooden hut without any heating. Over the last couple of days we had something like -5 to -20 degC outside. Temperatures below 0 degC are quite normal in winter here in Austria.
I am wondering if that can cause and problems? Over the last couple of years I never had any issues with broken seals or something. The only annoying thing I see is that every oil I used so far changes its viscosity below ~5deg dramatically, but that I have to accept....

Should I be worried about my sealsings or anything else when keepy having my bikes in the cold during winter?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Any help with this one?

When the schrader valve and damper screw are removed from the bottom of the fork, they both have 2 o-rings each. Is there a part number for these so I can replace them? What about the crush washers?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Follow up...*



NoahColorado said:


> We just like to underpromise and overdeliver. JK
> 
> The total number of clicks kinda floats based on manufacturing tolerances, but the USABLE range does not. Rebound recommendations (and Ramp Control for the coil) are given from fully clockwise (max). And max is max is max. There'd no difference in one forks max to another forks max (within reason), even if their total click count differs.
> 
> ...


Figured I'd repost this one. Just got my fork and of course needed to fiddle with the knobs.

Both Rebound and Ramp have a lot more clicks that the listed range.

But, starting at "max", or the farthest clockwise setting, I'm going to presume that after 20 clicks of rebound and 10 clicks of ramp, those settings will be just about wide open. Correct? I've always been use to setting rebound going from full open.

Preload adjuster is real slick. Unlike a Boxxer where you need to buy a massive socket and grind it flat just to access the coils and preload.

And, the fork looks nice. Can't go wrong with black.


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## cpt_america (Nov 21, 2016)

Same thing here. Although I do get 18 on my rebound knob, I get 39 on my ramp control! I made a travel and spring adjustment. Tested the ramp control to determine bottom out between "close" and "open" and there is a difference which mean it is working. So should I worry about having 39 clicks to my ramp control?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

cpt_america said:


> Same thing here. Although I do get 18 on my rebound knob, I get 39 on my ramp control! I made a travel and spring adjustment. Tested the ramp control to determine bottom out between "close" and "open" and there is a difference which mean it is working. So should I worry about having 39 clicks to my ramp control?


I wouldn't worry about it. All it is doing is moving a rod down to block a hole in a tube, so if you set it to fully open and then close it until it feels good, it shouldn't really matter how many clicks it took.


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

Miker J said:


> But, starting at "max", or the farthest clockwise setting, I'm going to presume that after 20 clicks of rebound and 10 clicks of ramp, those settings will be just about wide open. Correct? I've always been use to setting rebound going from full open.


You're correct. Those "extra" clicks aren't doing anything.

It's just an issue of consistency, nothing more. Counting from full-closed gets you a number you can compare to other peoples' forks. It's why the rebound suggestions in the manual are specified that way.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Installed the Ribbon coil today. Wanted a better match to the Inline coil on my Endorphin.

Real trail riding is not happening this time of year, but was able to hit enough chop and drops in town to get a basic feel.

Wow. First thing after rolling over some chop - front tire felt like it needed air. But no, it was just that fork's small bump sensitivity was that good. If your tires feel flat you know your suspension is smooth off the top.

The Ribbon replaced a well worn Pike that is going to my son. I was expecting to feel some improvement, but nothing this dramatic. Though early, I'm getting that same amazing coil feel out of this fork that I got when I move to a coil out back.

Right now I'm a bit light, and with clothes I'm about 180# tops. That just puts me in the green spring territory with 150mm travel. Some have posted the springs feel stiff. No way. It moves through most of its travel very easily like a coil but also ramps up at the very end. I would not want the spring any lighter.


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

How do i delete this post???


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Hi all,

Been following this thread for sometime, but did not manage to post anything.
So....Here goes.

Bought the 160mm, 27.5 Mrp Ribbon last year, 2017, sometime in August.

Kinda bummed out by this bugger of a fork i must say.
Bit of an intro,
Riding a Devinci Troy 2017, with Fox Float X2 at the rear, and a Rockshox Pike 160 Solo Air RCt3 (non boost).
Changed out the Pike to a Boost-ed MRP Ribbon.

The Ribbon was, since day 1 not sensitive at all ( played around with the pos and neg air, to no avail )

I've done my own troubleshooting and have MRP guys on email helping as well.
Below detailed diagnostics:

Initial Settings : Pos 40Psi, Neg 45Psi (any harder and i'll be riding a fixed fork)

Changed to a prototype aftermarket Slick Dustwiper (helped with stiction a little bit)

Neg Air started to leak (got a replacement Air Chamber seal head which was of a wrong model, no groove for travel reducer - rattling in the Neg air chamber, changed back to the older seal head, with the new oil rings)

Damper Air Ingress - "lock out" had some major free play". Done a full re-bleed with a vacuum bleed system. Not much help, still having awesome in-sensitivity (if there is such a word)

Compression top cap seeping oil - had a replacement sent out, installed, and re-bleed with a vacuum bleed system. Not much help, still having awesome in-sensitivity (if there is such a word)

Oil Change to a lighter weight, approx 11cst at 40deg (est. 3wt)
Damper reacts better, but noticed inconsistent rebound damping, blows through High speed compressions. Feels more supple off the top, but damper gets confused especially with the smaller repetitive stuff.

Damper Air Ingress again - "lock out" had some major free play". Done a full re-bleed with a vacuum bleed system. Not much help, still having awesome in-sensitivity (if there is such a word)

Oil Change to a heavier weight, approx 16.5cst at 40deg (est. 5wt)
Feels stupidly harsh. even with zero compression and rebound damping.

Just before giving up and binning the fork, did a major strip of the damper.
Found out that the IFP piston with glide ring were stuck in the upper tubes.
Had to machine off 0.01mm from the IFP piston. (cutting out the groove at the glide ring would not have helped)
This allows the IFP piston with the glide ring to be able to move freely. 
Everything else looks normal.

Rebled with 16.5cst at 40deg (est. 5wt)
Fork feels much better now. There is consistent control and damping(rides higher in its travel, and with better support)
Will bring it out for some trail riding this weekend.

Current settings on the fork
Pos air 47Psi
Neg air 50psi
Ramp 9 Clicks in
Rebound 13 Clicks Out
Compression 0 (never did like the compression settings/feel)

Sorry MRP, the Ribbon will never be as plush/sensitive as the Pike/Lyrik. (Although the damper feels more supportive and controlled)
But still, thank you and your team for always giving me the technical support whenever i had issues.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

josephtan_89 said:


> The Ribbon was, since day 1 not sensitive at all ( played around with the pos and neg air, to no avail )


I feel you on this one. I had similar feelings.

FWIW, tuning via pressure worked for me. I dropped @ 10psi from the positive and negative chambers and upped the ramp control @3 clicks for the first half of my ride and added a click for the second half. Feels quite a bit better.

All the advice I got was "do you know how to add air" and "maybe you need a lower leg service (on your brand new fork)" No offense to anyone.

Not saying that everyone has had issues, but some have. Seems as though some of those have gone the coil conversion route.

Props to Noah for being here and fielding questions/issues.

FWIW, The fork feels a lot better, though not as supple as my 2014 Pike, with the changes I made. So my specs if anyone runs into the same issues.

190# 
68psi pos. 
74psi neg. 
5 clicks ramp control.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Hi all!

I've been away at the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival and needed a few days since returning to catch up on things. I'll reply to everyone's questions and posts from the last week, just bear with me!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

vko said:


> Hi Noah ,
> a question about ribbon coil and ramp control. I understand how RC works on the air fork where you have pressurised air but on the coil fork, is it equally effective? From which point of the travel it starts working?
> Thank you


The Ramp Control implementation in the Ribbon Coil controls the flow of ambient air in the lowers into the spring-side stanchion. It provides little to no support for low-speed and small and mid-size hits, it purely boosts the ending-stroke spring rate on big, high-speed hits and bottom-out inducing events.

Make sense?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Any help with this one?
> 
> When the schrader valve and damper screw are removed from the bottom of the fork, they both have 2 o-rings each. Is there a part number for these so I can replace them? What about the crush washers?


Our service manager is out sick today, so I'm not sure where to find a part number for these. But, I know the spec, the o-rings are 1x6mm.

To get the exact spec or source the parts directly from us, contact Eric (eprinster (at) mrpbike.com


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Figured I'd repost this one. Just got my fork and of course needed to fiddle with the knobs.
> 
> Both Rebound and Ramp have a lot more clicks that the listed range.





cpt_america said:


> So should I worry about having 39 clicks to my ramp control?


We need to update the tuning ranges for the latest production forks. There are (on average) 30 clicks of Ramp Control on Ribbon Coil forks. To my knowledge, there's not (on average) substantially more than 18-20 clicks of rebound - but I'll obviously double check this before getting new documents printed.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

josephtan_89 said:


> Bought the 160mm, 27.5 Mrp Ribbon last year, 2017, sometime in August.
> 
> Kinda bummed out by this bugger of a fork i must say.
> 
> ...


I'm genuinely sorry you're not liking your fork. Have you sent it to us for inspection? With our dyno we can usually isolate any issues that diminish ride quality.

You are running very little pressure difference pos/neg, upping that (neg pressure) would be my first suggestion if you feel you're missing plushness and sensitivity.

Maybe I missed your weight, but your first pressures settings (40/45) are exceptionally low. If those were the minimum you needed to use without riding a "fixed fork" then there is something chronically wrong with your fork. That makes me think there's an alignment issue - so no amount of tuning is gonna make that go away.

To be frank, we had a rash of forks with similar symptoms, and we brought those back and fixed them. There are several posts about the topic in this thread. To be clear, it wasn't a problem with ALL of our forks, but there were a few that definitely weren't up to snuff. I haven't heard of similar complaints since wrapping that up. Just anecdotally, these "problem forks" were from roughly the same time you said you procured yours (August).

So, in short, your performance impressions sound atypical, and I'd like to make that right. If we can't refurb your fork to be good as new, we'll replace it outright.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brig said:


> All the advice I got was "do you know how to add air" and "maybe you need a lower leg service (on your brand new fork)" No offense to anyone.
> 
> Props to Noah for being here and fielding questions/issues.
> 
> FWIW, The fork feels a lot better, though not as supple as my 2014 Pike, with the changes I made. So my specs if anyone runs into the same issues.


Glad it's feeling better, though I want to be feeling amazing - and it should. You're welcome to send it in for inspection and service, free-of-charge.

Regarding our advice, it can be hard to know how much knowledge someone has of suspension, and our air-fill procedure does depart from tradition, so we like to start with the "low-hanging fruit." I had an instance before where I was in a long dialogue with someone whose fork was acting strangely and we were kinda at our wits-end as to what could be causing the problem, only to find out that they were filling it with a high-volume floor pump. So, yeah, I try my best to get the basics out of the way before recommending any outside-the-box solutions or going so far as bringing it in-house.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Glad it's feeling better, though I want to be feeling amazing - and it should. You're welcome to send it in for inspection and service, free-of-charge.
> 
> Regarding our advice, it can be hard to know how much knowledge someone has of suspension, and our air-fill procedure does depart from tradition, so we like to start with the "low-hanging fruit." I had an instance before where I was in a long dialogue with someone whose fork was acting strangely and we were kinda at our wits-end as to what could be causing the problem, only to find out that they were filling it with a high-volume floor pump. So, yeah, I try my best to get the basics out of the way before recommending any outside-the-box solutions or going so far as bringing it in-house.


Thanks Noah. 
That actually wasn't aimed at you.

I'm still playing with settings, but it's noticeably better.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm genuinely sorry you're not liking your fork. Have you sent it to us for inspection? With our dyno we can usually isolate any issues that diminish ride quality.
> 
> You are running very little pressure difference pos/neg, upping that (neg pressure) would be my first suggestion if you feel you're missing plushness and sensitivity.
> 
> ...


Thank you Noah for the quick replies.
Really appreciated that.

Thank you Noah for the quick replies.
Really appreciated that.

My initial pressures of 40/45 would provide me with a good 30% sag up front (I've 20mm more travel upfront, would'nt mind having more sag).
I'm 63Kg butt naked, about max 66kg loaded for trail ride (no hydration bags)

After all the troubleshooting, i am now 47/50 with a good 20% sag (the fork is very active now, but nowhere as sensitive as it should be i feel)

As to why the difference between pos and neg is so little, i noticed that with 110% (of pos air) as neg air, the fork doesn't necessarily becomes more sensitive.
Yes, it allows the fork to move easier, but thats about it.
The initial part of the travel gets eaten up very fast, and it sinks right into the more supportive part of the travel. 
Having 110% (of pos air) as neg air, causes alot of unwanted chassis movement as well.
Adding Low speed compression further confuses the fork, there is some damping on the initial travel, but once it passes that point, it becomes harsher and harder. (the progression between plush to hard/supportive is very distinct)
I could add more ramp control, as that not only helps with bottom out, but helps slightly in the middle of the travel as well.
But that would make the fork too progressive at the later parts of the travel.

I'm open to suggestions, but I'm based in Singapore, and I do not have a spare fork to use if and when I send in the Ribbon.

Once again, thank you for your quick responses Noah.
Never doubted you and your team's awesome support.


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Any help with this one?
> 
> When the schrader valve and damper screw are removed from the bottom of the fork, they both have 2 o-rings each. Is there a part number for these so I can replace them? What about the crush washers?


If you don't mind my inputs,
Based on Exploded Drawings.
That part would be O_RING_M6, P/N 102523. (2 for each side)
Crush Washers would be THRUST_WASHER, P/N 101245 (1 for each side)

I do not know if you could order direct from MRP for these items.
But i managed to get the O-Rings at the local hardware store, and managed to machine a few thrust washers for spares.


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Brig said:


> I feel you on this one. I had similar feelings.
> 
> FWIW, tuning via pressure worked for me. I dropped @ 10psi from the positive and negative chambers and upped the ramp control @3 clicks for the first half of my ride and added a click for the second half. Feels quite a bit better.
> 
> ...


I tried playing around with the pos and neg air as well. (having more neg air (110% of pos air), but it didnt help much.)

But could never get an orgasmic feeling out of the fork.
In honesty, my old pike (before and after modifications) felt much plusher.
If only i could the plushness of the Pike Air spring, and the support of the MRP twin tube damper.......

Can't use your settings though (i'm too skinny).


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> To be frank, we had a rash of forks with similar symptoms, and we brought those back and fixed them. There are several posts about the topic in this thread. To be clear, it wasn't a problem with ALL of our forks, but there were a few that definitely weren't up to snuff. I haven't heard of similar complaints since wrapping that up. Just anecdotally, these "problem forks" were from roughly the same time you said you procured yours (August).


I sent mine back in that I bought last August. Had exact same issue, had to run pressures crazy soft to make it feel good.

The guys at MRP fixed it, and I had them swap it to coil too. It is flat out amazing now. I can't believe how plush it is. I would say it's 2x better than a Pike, and that's saying something as the Pike's I've had were excellent.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

I had my Ribbon air 160 working pretty smooth on my 2016 Transition Patrol but because I have to have all the latest/greatest stuff I went with a coil conversion.

My geared up weight landed between a medium and firm spring. I went with the firm. 

Originally I thought I had the correct sag but as it turned out (I’m a one man show around here so sometimes getting accurate measurements is a challenge), after a few rides the sag was no where near the 25% desired. Small bump compliance was out the window.

Enter a medium spring (and new SKF wipers). A whole new ride. 25% sag, small bump compliance is back and the fork rides higher in the travel. Right now I’m running no compression, no ramp (still waiting to hit a big drop) And the dampening is set one click past where it starts to work. 

As far as the weight chart goes, I think how slack the front end is plays into how the spring reacts for the sag setting and small bump compliance. Slacker = softer spring. 

Just my opinion.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

rorhound said:


> As far as the weight chart goes, I think how slack the front end is plays into how the spring reacts for the sag setting and small bump compliance. Slacker = softer spring.
> 
> Just my opinion.


Agreed. I bought the medium spring and ended up going to the light (@ 185lbs on a 65* HA bike).


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Porch said:


> Agreed. I bought the medium spring and ended up going to the light (@ 185lbs on a 65* HA bike).


Did you notice a big change in small bump compliance with the different spring weights? I would think it the small bump would be pretty close, and just the mid to large size would make a difference.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Did you notice a big change in small bump compliance with the different spring weights? I would think it the small bump would be pretty close, and just the mid to large size would make a difference.


I noticed small bump was way better and still have great feel/support at mid and larger hits.

Forgot to mention previously that my pre-load is backed all the way out.


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## Tobi1976 (Jan 16, 2010)

Hi Noah,

Is it possible that the top-out bumper does not like very low temps? Recently I did a couple of rides at very low temps, down to -13°C. After that there is a hard top-out sensation with the fork while overall rebound damping for all but the last cm is fine. Is it possible that the bumper cracked?

Thanks, Tobi

Update: In addition to the hard top-out the fork also lost a lot if its sensitivity to small chatter. I released the air from pos/neg chambers and refilled, pos first. Strangely, the harsh top out is completely gone and the fork is as smooth as it used to be. Any idea what could have caused the strange behaviour? I did not change anything to the fork, just rode it a very cold conditions a couple of times.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

I'm 170lbs and still wonder about trying the X-light spring.....
Whilst I havent had the bike on any super DH trails, I am running no ramp control and still have about 20mm left after a hard trail ride with a few mid size jumps and drops.
But as Noah pointed out before, having some spare travel in reserve for a misjudged jump/landing might be a good idea. 
Still love the fork


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

rorhound said:


> Enter a medium spring (and new SKF wipers).


Do SKF wipers have any performance upgrade over the stock MRP ones?


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

B Rabbit,
How is your Ribbon coil working out on your Nomad? Did you run a Fox 36 before? If so, would you share your thoughts on the comparison?


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## JNKER (Feb 19, 2016)

Coil users, huge apologies if I just happened to miss this in the thread but what initial settings are you using on the fork? I'm 165 and ride the PNW. Or at least should I start halfway on all knobs and adjust forwards or backwards from there? Much appreciated.


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## Christoffer Du Rietz (Jun 2, 2015)

Ok. So this happened to my MRP Ribbon Coil fork during my 5th ride, and first ride day in Malaga shuttling. Something seems to be scratching the stanchion on the right leg, and it's not looking good. It's not just cosmetic either, you can feel the scratches with your hand. As soon as I could I got a zip-tie in there to remove anything that was stuck in the wipers. I could not see or feel anything coming out but it's not gone visibly worse afterwards. Anyway, it's not something I want to be riding with, and it seem like something that shouldn't be happening.

Noah, what to do? I'm guessing contact Sussedout Suspension in the UK where I bought it but can I tell them something to make the process smoother?


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## matther01 (Mar 18, 2018)

Just purchased a Ribbon Air as I’m not convinced at 85kg I’d benefit on a coil at 140mm. At least I can always upgrade later if needs be.

Noah - are you ever likely to make a better boost adapter in black? That orange will severely mess with my custom paint job! Lol


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

KWJP said:


> B Rabbit,
> How is your Ribbon coil working out on your Nomad? Did you run a Fox 36 before? If so, would you share your thoughts on the comparison?


Its going good so far, still need to tune in the rear and then I'll turn my attention back to the front. I never ran a 36, only the Pike. I found with the Pike that in order to get get good small bump you needed to compromise mid stroke, no such issue with the Coil. 
If you are on the fence, Id say do it


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

JNKER said:


> Coil users, huge apologies if I just happened to miss this in the thread but what initial settings are you using on the fork? I'm 165 and ride the PNW. Or at least should I start halfway on all knobs and adjust forwards or backwards from there? Much appreciated.


From my experience I'd say, install the light spring, rebound half way and no ramp control


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Getting ready to build a Kona Honzo ST. Debating on the Ribbon, or the Ribbon Coil.

I am 6'3, 240 (245 geared up).

I am planning on building the HOnzo at 140mm. Would you guys recommend going with the coil or the air? 

I have a Kona Process 153 right now and decided I would benefit from having a hardtail as well in the stable for some of the smoother trails around, and am going to go with a full high end build on this rig.


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## JNKER (Feb 19, 2016)

B Rabbit said:


> From my experience I'd say, install the light spring, rebound half way and no ramp control


Cool. Did that today for my first ride. Thanks for the reply!

Also, I have 24 clicks of Ramp Control and 29 clicks of Rebound. I should only have 20 of each, right?? Compression I have the stated 8.


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## tangaroo (Jul 17, 2012)

Hey Noah, any word on when the medium springs will be back in stock? I placed my order for the ribbon coil about a month ago and still waiting on a medium spring to arrive so you guys can build it up!


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

JNKER said:


> Cool. Did that today for my first ride. Thanks for the reply!
> 
> Also, I have 24 clicks of Ramp Control and 29 clicks of Rebound. I should only have 20 of each, right?? Compression I have the stated 8.


See Noah's post #636 in this thread. In short, it's fine, but only the first 20 clicks (from full closed) do anything regardless of the number of clicks your fork actually has. All the tuning suggestions are counted from full-closed for this reason.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

B Rabbit said:


> Do SKF wipers have any performance upgrade over the stock MRP ones?


They seemed smoother but that could have been because they were freshly lubed with Slick Honey.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

B Rabbit said:


> I'm 170lbs and still wonder about trying the X-light spring.....
> Whilst I havent had the bike on any super DH trails, I am running no ramp control and still have about 20mm left after a hard trail ride with a few mid size jumps and drops.
> But as Noah pointed out before, having some spare travel in reserve for a misjudged jump/landing might be a good idea.
> Still love the fork


Is that 20mm measured from the crown or wipers? The 27.5" models don't bottom out on the crown, FYI.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Christoffer Du Rietz said:


> View attachment 1188253
> 
> 
> Ok. So this happened to my MRP Ribbon Coil fork during my 5th ride, and first ride day in Malaga shuttling. Something seems to be scratching the stanchion on the right leg, and it's not looking good. It's not just cosmetic either, you can feel the scratches with your hand. As soon as I could I got a zip-tie in there to remove anything that was stuck in the wipers. I could not see or feel anything coming out but it's not gone visibly worse afterwards. Anyway, it's not something I want to be riding with, and it seem like something that shouldn't be happening.
> ...


Yeah, that's not looking good! Don't know what that would be - maybe a bad bushing? Not something I've seen. That stanchion is hosed, so if you're on holiday, keep riding. Send an e-mail to Sussed and CC me please: Noah (at) mrpbike.com

I'm going on holiday starting tomorrow, but I'll expedite things as best I can!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

tangaroo said:


> Hey Noah, any word on when the medium springs will be back in stock? I placed my order for the ribbon coil about a month ago and still waiting on a medium spring to arrive so you guys can build it up!


I don't have the latest ETA on those. I will check. Are you certain that medium is right for you?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

derek1387 said:


> Getting ready to build a Kona Honzo ST. Debating on the Ribbon, or the Ribbon Coil.
> 
> I am 6'3, 240 (245 geared up).
> 
> ...


Tough call. At 245 you're gonna be near the limit of our x-firm spring for the 140mm application. I think generally HT riders prefer a firmer fork, so that's got me leaning towards air.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

JNKER said:


> Coil users, huge apologies if I just happened to miss this in the thread but what initial settings are you using on the fork? I'm 165 and ride the PNW. Or at least should I start halfway on all knobs and adjust forwards or backwards from there? Much appreciated.


I'm 160 and also ride in the PNW. Per the MRP guidelines, I'm out 8 clicks from full on the rebound, 0 compression, and about halfway on the ramp control. I'd likely use less ramp control, but I'm doing some good drops with my son and I think it really helps there. Oh yeah, light spring and no preload.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

tangaroo said:


> Hey Noah, any word on when the medium springs will be back in stock? I placed my order for the ribbon coil about a month ago and still waiting on a medium spring to arrive so you guys can build it up!


I've got a medium spring i'll sell ya


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Is that 20mm measured from the crown or wipers? The 27.5" models don't bottom out on the crown, FYI.


Ah, good point, thanks for the heads up 

And thanks for your continued input on this thread


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

jmvdigital said:


> I have found that the MRP pressure recommendations are much higher than what I ride. With my 150mm 29" Ribbon, I'm running 50psi, but MRP recommends 68-72psi. My 50psi results in just a hair over 20% sag, and with 5-6 clicks of Ramp Control, I rarely (if ever) bottom the fork out. I could probably go lower.
> 
> If you were to lower the pressure, and then increase the Ramp Control (which handles the progressive bottom out), you'll get a much more plush feel down low, without blowing through top-end travel on big hits. Pretty rad system.


Finally got a chance to ride again. I lowered my psi from 64 to 50. Now I'm getting 20% sag and using full travel. Seems weird to go so far below the recommendation. I'm definitely not riding slowly either. Interested in demoing a coil this summer.


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

I'm building out a new bike and looking at a large 29er tires. I know MRP states the max tire size is 29x2.6 on the 29/27+ chassis. 

Has anyone tried a Maxxis DHF 29x3in (or something in the 29x2.8in) on the MRP Ribbon 29/27.5+ chassis?


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

It doesn't exactly answer your question, but I've mounted a HR2 27.5x2.8 (on 32mm internal rims) in the 27.5" Ribbon chassis. It fit but was a little close. Tightest point was between the cornering knob and the arch, with about 8mm clearance measured diagonally (but more measured horizontally).

Here's a picture I took, so you can judge for yourself. This was before re-dishing my wheel for my hub's Boost adapter, so you'd have to mentally add 5mm more space on that right side - about 3x the clearance shown.









I didn't ride that setup, so I can't comment on whether there would be any rub while cornering. I would probably feel comfortable riding it, but I wouldn't try to fit a Muckynutz or similar fender.

Assuming the 29er chassis is designed with similar clearance, I suspect you'd be fine with some 29x2.8" tires but I would definitely not count on 3.0's. The Ribbon has a bit more space than some other forks, (DVO Diamond comes to mind), less than some others (like Xfusion's 34mm Sweep/Trace).


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Early in the thread there were some posts about stiction. I recently pulled my lowers and added a VERY generous helping of Rock N Roll grease to the seals and the fork feels MUCH better in the stiction department.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DV9ZIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Anyone having any issues with fork binding?

Managed to test the rebuilt fork on Sunday on a few short loops in indonesia, but noticed that the fork would have stiction ever so often (2-3 rides in).

Had to release and re-fit the QR every few rides once the stiction comes in.
And yes, i did follow the Owners manual from MRP.

Extracted from Owners manual:
4. Position the quick release lever
so that when closed, it’s parallel
with the fork leg and pointing
upwards.When you can feel
tension on the quick release cam
when the lever is pointing straight
out from the axle (90 degrees from
the fork leg), you’ve reached the
correct starting point tension.


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Noah,

Short update for you.

The fork is a lot more active now. (thanks to a finally moving IFP)

BUT, i still needed to run the fork at about 42PSI(pos), 46PSI(neg) to get some decent small bump sensitivity.

But noticed that fork binding occurs very frequently.
Had to release and refit the QR very regularly.

What can we do about this?
I am still waiting for some ideas on how to resolve these few issues.


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## gundrted (Nov 6, 2017)

lazarus2405 said:


> It doesn't exactly answer your question, but I've mounted a HR2 27.5x2.8 (on 32mm internal rims) in the 27.5" Ribbon chassis. It fit but was a little close. Tightest point was between the cornering knob and the arch, with about 8mm clearance measured diagonally (but more measured horizontally).
> 
> Here's a picture I took, so you can judge for yourself. This was before re-dishing my wheel for my hub's Boost adapter, so you'd have to mentally add 5mm more space on that right side - about 3x the clearance shown.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the pic. That helped a lot.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

I'm having some trouble getting my Ribbon 140 dialed in on my Evil Following. I weigh ~160 with gear. 

I've got then fork set at 60+/68-, Compression Fully Open, Rebound -13 from Fully Closed. I've got the ramp at +6. 

The fork feels good for medium and big hits, but the small bump compliance is pretty poor. My hands feels beat up after two hours on the bike. I can't seem to detect any effect or playing with the ramp control settings (not sure how much of the travel range this effects). Adding any compression seems to make the fork even worse.

I've been trying to trouble shoot things a bit. Here is what I've tried:
1) Emptied both air chambers and removed the valve cores (no air resistance). Measured the force(stiction) to compress the fork at 4 lb (stanchions in a vertical postion). I think this seems reasonable but i don't know if the stiction increases at pressure.
2) Filled only the positive chamber. Even at 30 psi, the fork feels super stiff. Way stiffer than any fork I've ever run. Is this by design? Does this match other user's experience? I know the negative chamber is designed to balance the positive, but with such a small negative air volume, I would think this stiffness is going to be present once the fork moves a little into the travel and the negative chamber expands to a point where the force is negligible. I wonder about this because I found the fork to be pretty much impossible to compress with ~80 psi in the positive and no air in the negative chamber when I was first setting it up.

For anyone who feels their fork is working as it should, I guess I'm wondering if these are normal observations or not. Or if anyone has any general advice, I'd appreciate it. I've tried to contact Noah as well but I think he's out on vacation.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

ChampionSleeper said:


> For anyone who feels their fork is working as it should, I guess I'm wondering if these are normal observations or not. Or if anyone has any general advice, I'd appreciate it. I've tried to contact Noah as well but I think he's out on vacation.


Convert to coil 

No, really...


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Re: Rebound "+/-" indicators

Can someone help me with this?

Does the + = adding speed to the rebound? Or does the + = adding damping thus slowing the rebound?



ChampionSleeper said:


> I'm having some trouble getting my Ribbon 140 dialed in on my Evil Following. I weigh ~160 with gear.
> 
> I've got then fork set at 60+/68-, Compression Fully Open, Rebound -13 from Fully Closed. I've got the ramp at +6.
> 
> The fork feels good for medium and big hits, but the small bump compliance is pretty poor. My hands feels beat up after two hours on the bike. I can't seem to detect any effect or playing with the ramp control settings (not sure how much of the travel range this effects). Adding any compression seems to make the fork even worse.


As I posted just a few posts up, if you are getting harsh stiction or small bum compliance, pull the lowers and use a really good fork lube and lather the hell out of the seals. It made a HUGE difference in small bump feel on mine (also set to 140mm).

That said, I have gotten away from the "10 psi difference" between pos and neg chamber. I have gone to 10% instead of 10PSI. At 60 pos you should try 66 neg. I weigh more, so I am running 90 pos and 99 neg. Works like a dream.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

+ adds damping and slows the rebound.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Thanks!


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> As I posted just a few posts up, if you are getting harsh stiction or small bum compliance, pull the lowers and use a really good fork lube and lather the hell out of the seals. It made a HUGE difference in small bump feel on mine (also set to 140mm).


My fork is brand new. I'm not super interested in pulling it apart yet or performing any serious maintenance. I believe your advice may be helpful for a small increase in performance, but my fork feels like something more fundamental is wrong (I think).


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

ChampionSleeper said:


> I'm having some trouble getting my Ribbon 140 dialed in on my Evil Following. I weigh ~160 with gear.
> 
> I've got then fork set at 60+/68-, Compression Fully Open, Rebound -13 from Fully Closed. I've got the ramp at +6.
> 
> ...


I am also having similar issues. I weigh 150lbs and have a 27.5 160mm Air. At the recommended settings - 62/67 - I only use about 75% of the travel and my hands are sore after riding. I've slowly been dropping the psi, and I'm now at 45/49. It's feeling better now, not amazing, but it seems really low; in fact it's what they recommend for someone at 110lbs. Even at that pressure, it's tough to bottom out. My seated sag is 20% and aggressive standing sag is 25%. At this point I am strongly considering a coil conversion. I have to talk to Noah when he returns.


----------



## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

ChampionSleeper said:


> My fork is brand new. I'm not super interested in pulling it apart yet or performing any serious maintenance. I believe your advice may be helpful for a small increase in performance, but my fork feels like something more fundamental is wrong (I think).


So then try the other part. The seals were just a suggestion.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> So then try the other part. The seals were just a suggestion.


I appreciate the help Stalker. I was just looking for some comparison of typical fork behavior and feel from other owners to try and narrow down if my problems were a settings issue or something more serious. I spoke with Noah today (excellent customer service as previously reported). They are going to take a look at the fork. I will update after they take a look.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Hi all. I'm just back from vacation. I'll do some responding tomorrow! Mahalo


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

So I have a ribbon coil fork on order. It was supposed to ship out on March 9th and then abruptly changed to april 21. Almost a 6 week delay. Any ideas why?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

jasec79 said:


> So I have a ribbon coil fork on order. It was supposed to ship out on March 9th and then abruptly changed to april 21. Almost a 6 week delay. Any ideas why?


My Ribbon Coil got caught up in the same production delay. So I feel your pain. GG offered to switch my bike to a different fork, but I figured it was worth the wait.


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

Penny said:


> I am also having similar issues. I weigh 150lbs and have a 27.5 160mm Air. At the recommended settings - 62/67 - I only use about 75% of the travel and my hands are sore after riding. I've slowly been dropping the psi, and I'm now at 45/49. It's feeling better now, not amazing, but it seems really low; in fact it's what they recommend for someone at 110lbs. Even at that pressure, it's tough to bottom out. My seated sag is 20% and aggressive standing sag is 25%. At this point I am strongly considering a coil conversion. I have to talk to Noah when he returns.


I'm also running in the 40s, 42/46, 63kg (140lbs) naked.
Able to share your settings on ram control, rebound and compression?


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

am 69kg in the shower. running 65/67, 14 out on rebound and maybe 7 clicks of ramp on a 170mm air. compression depending on trail, but zero on fast downhils. aggresive sag is less than 2cm in my living room, but perfect on the trail  no sore hands, perfect fork.


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

Yep same. I'm 6-8 weeks on my air spring ribbon. Thankfully this is a slow build for me.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

josephtan_89 said:


> I'm also running in the 40s, 42/46, 63kg (140lbs) naked.
> Able to share your settings on ram control, rebound and compression?


0 ramp, open compression, 10 clicks out on rebound (I prefer slower rebound)


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jasec79 said:


> So I have a ribbon coil fork on order. It was supposed to ship out on March 9th and then abruptly changed to april 21. Almost a 6 week delay. Any ideas why?


Sorry about that.

We're short on springs and stanchions.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

josephtan_89 said:


> Noah,
> 
> Short update for you.
> 
> ...


Please contact our service manager for more technical problems like this [email protected]

It's getting to the time of year where I'm traveling frequently, so questions beyond setup suggestions or product specifics are better dealt with through traditional channels. But I'll certainly still be active on here! If you need an answer on anything ASAP, call or e-mail the office.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Penny said:


> I am also having similar issues. I weigh 150lbs and have a 27.5 160mm Air. At the recommended settings - 62/67 - I only use about 75% of the travel and my hands are sore after riding. I've slowly been dropping the psi, and I'm now at 45/49. It's feeling better now, not amazing, but it seems really low; in fact it's what they recommend for someone at 110lbs. Even at that pressure, it's tough to bottom out. My seated sag is 20% and aggressive standing sag is 25%. At this point I am strongly considering a coil conversion. I have to talk to Noah when he returns.


What kind of bike are you on? Bikes that have long front-centers and slack headangles are really hard to dial-in sag-wise.

Our settings are based on our experiences setting up riders at demo events as well as feedback from our staff. That said, there are a million and one reasons why they might not work for you. As indicated on our pressure chart, setups will differ for different travel lengths. As well, the rider's position and F/R balance will influence setup. So will terrain and bike geometry. The key is getting to a setup that works for you. If that departs from our suggested starting points, no biggie.

Your 45/49 setting seems kinda low, but not crazy. There is a lot of inherent Ramp effect on the longer travel models as a result of the increased air volume in the lowers. Seldom do I see riders using a lot of additional Ramp Control on the 160 and 170mm models.

I think I described earlier in the thread how sometimes folks will keep dropping air-pressure trying to chase down harshness, but then they end up with a fork that "rides" deep in its stroke in the "rampy"/progressive portion of the curve. I'd recommend going back up in pressure, increasing the +/- difference and speeding up rebound. An overly soft and slow setup is the most common setup mistake - usually a result of too much emphasis put on parking lot feel and attentiveness to sag.

Also, flip your bike over for a bit to let the bath oil coat the bushings and saturate the wipers if it's been awhile. And finally, hit the PSST valves to make sure you've released any pressure buildup in the lowers.

All that said, the coil conversion is sweet. I prefer it for long-travel.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> What kind of bike are you on? Bikes that have long front-centers and slack headangles are really hard to dial-in sag-wise.
> 
> Our settings are based on our experiences setting up riders at demo events as well as feedback from our staff. That said, there are a million and one reasons why they might not work for you. As indicated on our pressure chart, setups will differ for different travel lengths. As well, the rider's position and F/R balance will influence setup. So will terrain and bike geometry. The key is getting to a setup that works for you. If that departs from our suggested starting points, no biggie.
> 
> ...


I am on a Nomad. Thanks I will keep testing different settings. Also, for some reason I thought the recommendation was a 10% difference between pos and neg. I see that it's up to 10 psi. I'm going to test that out as well, because I currently have only a 4-5 psi difference.

What is the cost for the labor on the coil conversion? Is it something I could drop off in Junction and wait while you do it? Also, do you have extra light springs in stock right now?


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

Anyone have thoughts or experience on running a Ribbon coil at 140mm for trail riding? My trails tend to be pretty gnarly with lots of rocks and roots (New Hampshire) but without the sustained descents you might see on more enduro style trails. 

The air spring Ribbon I have coming is for a Following MB and I was on the fence but decided to go air first since I can always convert if I'm not 100% happy.


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

160mm Ribbon Coil Conversion with medium spring mounted on 2016 Transition Carbon Patrol

Easy to install the conversion kit if you have the correct tools and can read or watch a video on YouTube (I went all agro and skipped the safety glasses )

Set-up = Zero compression, zero ramp, dampening is set two clicks past where it starts dampening and I have about 25% sag in attack position. Geared up I’m about 205. Skill level is advanced intermediate. 

I am really liking this fork. Small bump compliance is really, really good. It rides higher in the stroke than when it was air, really smooth on medium hits and very forgiving on the “oh $hit” hits. I’ve only bottomed once and normally only use 150mm during a normal ride, which is fine because it’s so smooth I don’t even notice it’s not using the full 160 99.9% of the time. 

Outstanding fork. 

Best thing? Combined with my rear coil I dont have to worry about air pressures anymore. I’d toss my shock pump but the wifies bike is still on air so........


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rorhound said:


> Best thing? Combined with my rear coil I dont have to worry about air pressures anymore. I'd toss my shock pump but the wifies bike is still on air so........


So true! I can't really put a sexy marketing spin on this, but I agree fully. I've got three bikes in rotation and I'm more often than not on prototype stuff where I have to pay close attention to settings, performance, adjustments I make on the trail, etc. It's so nice when I get a chance to get on my production coil fork and just go! It just works beautifully!

Also a big plus for traveling to far-off destinations, it's great not to have to faff with pressures. Pull the bike out of the bag, throw the wheels on and go!


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> So true! I can't really put a sexy marketing spin on this, but I agree fully. I've got three bikes in rotation and I'm more often than not on prototype stuff where I have to pay close attention to settings, performance, adjustments I make on the trail, etc. It's so nice when I get a chance to get on my production coil fork and just go! It just works beautifully!
> 
> Also a big plus for traveling to far-off destinations, it's great not to have to faff with pressures. Pull the bike out of the bag, throw the wheels on and go!


The spin...

"Just Ride it."


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Cripes, just a tour around the neighborhood trails this morning hitting roots and rocks with the Ribbon coil. Just so smoooothh.


This fork is as smooth as a Motown bass line.

One good rock roll with a notchy-ass runout on the bottom feels like butter. Every ride I'm impressed with how amazing this fork is.

For those in the wait, it will be worth it. I guarantee.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Curveball said:


> For those in the wait, it will be worth it. I guarantee.


Ha! I can't wait.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

ChampionSleeper said:


> I'm having some trouble getting my Ribbon 140 dialed in on my Evil Following. I weigh ~160 with gear.
> 
> I've got then fork set at 60+/68-, Compression Fully Open, Rebound -13 from Fully Closed. I've got the ramp at +6.
> 
> ...


I've had my 150mm 29er Ribbon since November last year but due to weather and work have only just been able to get some proper riding on it in the last couple of weeks.

My experience pretty much mimics yours. I haven't had time to properly and systematically try dial the fork in but from my quick and dirty messing around with set up I'm having the same experience. I'm 165-168 fully kitted and finding the small bump compliance to be pretty harsh and jarring at the 60/68 recommended pressures. I haven't tried reducing the pressure too much yet as I don't believe that's really the solution. But I did notice that when the negative chamber is empty, the fork is virtually impossible to compress and acts like it's locked out. I've got an old 2012 RS Dual Air Revelation (same set up with two separately filled +ve/-ve chambers) and that doesn't lock up so firm when the negative is empty. I know it's a different fork but the fact that the Ribbon virtually locks out surprised me.

I also have some stiction. When sat on the bike in attack stance, leaning my body slowly forward onto the bars to gradually put more weight on the fork causes the fork to compress down in 2-3 large steps rather than more smoothly. I don't expect it compress completely smoothly but I expected it to be better. The fork only has around 70 miles on it but I'd say that should be enough time to bed in and loosen up the seals.

ChampionSleeper, did you get any feed back or resolution on this?


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

@Noah
The Ribbon coil is definitely the best fork I've ever had, and I had many... 
Even the rebound damper is as good as the Manitou Mattoc's (which is amazing, btw)! 

Unfortunately I lost the cover of the preload adjuster today while riding.  folks, be careful. i only had it for 4 rides.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

trail-blazer said:


> ChampionSleeper, did you get any feed back or resolution on this?


Yup, that's my experience exactly. I was hoping some owners who feel their forks are performing as desired would comment on whether these are normal observations or not. I spoke with Noah last week and he thought it was worth having MRP look at the fork. I think it's likely just arriving at MRP today.


----------



## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Found my old Ribbon air spring in my junk drawer while going through it tonight, thought I'd post up a pic for those who are interested.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

Update on my fork: MRP agreed there was some abnormal stiction in my fork. They are going to replace the lowers/bushings and air spring, and then re-test the fork on the dyno. Hopefully that should do the trick.


----------



## springs (May 20, 2017)

I've been running a 160mm Ribbon coil on my Orbea Occam AM for about 6 weeks now and have been experiencing these stiction issues too. I really hoped they would bed in and get to the buttery smooth that everyone speaks about with coil but it hasn't happened.

I'm 190lbs and the forks came with the medium springs fitted and a healthy dose of stiction. After a few weeks of riding I wasn't getting anywhere near full travel (zero preload, minimal ramp, zero lsc) even after some decent flat landings so swapped the spring to the soft (plenty of grease used on the springs, wipers with plenty of slick honey and light oil in each leg). This didn't really do much, maybe let me use another 20mm of travel but still 30mm left to go.

The stiction is definitely over the top imo, no other way to describe it, something isn't right.

I've emailed the shop that I bought them thru but curious if Noah would like to comment?

Wondering if there's a quality control issue here??


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

My fork has already had the bushings resized and I'm at the same weight running the light spring and it is still a little too firm for me. Are you sure you don't just need a lighter spring? What's your sag?


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

Porch said:


> My fork has already had the bushings resized and I'm at the same weight running the light spring and it is still a little too firm for me. Are you sure you don't just need a lighter spring? What's your sag?


Sag is between 33-36mm depending on the day.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Porch said:


> My fork has already had the bushings resized and I'm at the same weight running the light spring and it is still a little too firm for me. Are you sure you don't just need a lighter spring? What's your sag?


Still better than the air you had?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I rode my bike with the ribbon coil again today and, you're right. It still has some stiction. Easily overcome with any kind of impact, but definitely present during climbing as compared to my other forks. Great on the downhills though.


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

I removed the fork from the bike today to get to the bottom of this and discovered a couple of things.

Firstly I was able to compress the forks fully, so that would potentially mean my jumps are smaller than I thought and/or I'm a super smooth lander ;-) or the fork is binding under lateral load preventing full compression. I did a fairly large jump and the fork banged like it bottomed out on landing but the indicator still showed about 30mm remaining.

Secondly, when I pressed on the forks using force directly parallel to the fork travel ie holding the fork between my legs straight up and down, the stiction had all but gone. Refitting the forks and wheel to recheck and the stiction returns. The stiction is present with the forks fitted and pushing down on the bars with or without the front brake on.

If I place the bike against a wall and push forward into the travel the stiction it is markedly reduced which suggests that depending on the angle of force applied this would dictate how much stiction there will be. 

So I'm thinking there might be a bit of play internally which is causing the fork to bind slightly causing the stiction when the fork is loaded to the front or rear so maybe tighter bush tolerances would assist?

The wipers them selves could probably be replaced with SKF low friction versions which would also help imo


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

robmac48 said:


> I
> 
> Secondly, when I pressed on the forks using force directly parallel to the fork travel ie holding the fork between my legs straight up and down, the stiction had all but gone. Refitting the forks and wheel to recheck and the stiction returns. The stiction is present with the forks fitted and pushing down on the bars with or without the front brake on.
> 
> ...


I've noticed the same stiction when pushing down on the bars, but when standing on the pedals it's not there. I'd be suprised if its a tolaernce issue , I just assumed it was the result of a slack head angle (Nomad 4) but don't remember the same feeling on my N3 with a pike. So I'll follow your findings with interest 

I'm still tempted to give the x-light spring a go (170lbs), fork does feel a little stiff, but, I did run my pike super light to get it feeling super soft on the car park test, but it did result in a poor ride on the fast chunk. I also want to check that I've lubed the seals up enough, can't remember if I did it enough when I changed springs the first time. Will turning the bike upside down for a while help lube the seals? 
Also maybe a lower stiction (if possible) set of seals? What size/brand do I need?

MRP FTW!


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

B Rabbit said:


> I've noticed the same stiction when pushing down on the bars, but when standing on the pedals it's not there. I'd be suprised if its a tolaernce issue , I just assumed it was the result of a slack head angle (Nomad 4) but don't remember the same feeling on my N3 with a pike. So I'll follow your findings with interest
> 
> I'm still tempted to give the x-light spring a go (170lbs), fork does feel a little stiff, but, I did run my pike super light to get it feeling super soft on the car park test, but it did result in a poor ride on the fast chunk. I also want to check that I've lubed the seals up enough, can't remember if I did it enough when I changed springs the first time. Will turning the bike upside down for a while help lube the seals?
> Also maybe a lower stiction (if possible) set of seals? What size/brand do I need?
> ...


Not sure about the seals yet. A quick search shows the SKF seals available for the Rockshox and Marzocchi forks (MTB35RN and MTB35M) which suit 35mm sliders. I'll check with my local suspension shop to compare. DVO Diamond are another 35mm seal.

The car park test isn't a good test for these forks from what Noah has said already but my attention was grabbed by how the forks felt over fast small chunk...quite rough...certainly not as good as I hoped they would be. Felt like stiction hence why I started looking....


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I fitted some Pike seals in mine before I ended up sending it back in. MRP says that their seals are lower friction than the RS seals. I'm not sure if there are "versions" of the seals for this fork, e.g. If you could have an older set of seals that would be improved by MRPs newest version.

Either way, I have the newest version AFAIK and the lateral stiction is still present. It's mostly obvious on climbs.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

One thing that has been mentioned by folks in the industry is that with bikes getting slacker and longer at some point we'll see forks get compromised because of how they are getting loaded and binding. Maybe we've reached the point where that's starting to happen?

I know setting fork pressures by sag the way I used to is no longer effective because of how long and slack bikes are.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

I have a Ribbon coil on backorder. All this sticktion talk has me a little nervous. 

But there also seem to be a lot of extremely satisfied users, so Hopefully it’s just a vocal minority that is experiencing this issue. It is reassuring to see how active Noah is on this thread and it certainly seems like MRP will work hard to get things sorted. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Sid Duffman said:


> I have a Ribbon coil on backorder. All this sticktion talk has me a little nervous.
> 
> But there also seem to be a lot of extremely satisfied users, so Hopefully it's just a vocal minority that is experiencing this issue. It is reassuring to see how active Noah is on this thread and it certainly seems like MRP will work hard to get things sorted.


I've got a Ribbon coil on its way to me now. I hope it's trouble free out of the box, but it's pretty clear MRP will do whatever it takes to get riders onto forks that work as expected. I'm good with that.

FWIW - my buddy got a Pike on a new bike that never worked correctly. Went back for warranty service twice. It never ended up working properly. Any product will have some failures/production issues.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

I wouldn't have any hesitation/worry, the fork will blow you away.


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## .thumper. (Jan 13, 2005)

I know people experiencing issues are generally more vocal than those who are satisfied, so I'll speak up here. I've been on my Ribbon Coil for about 4 months now and 380 miles. I have been very happy with mine out of the box. I'm super stoked on how it is very active over the rough stuff but still rides high in the travel. I initially had some issues with bottoming the fork and it took me a little while to sort out, but am really happy with where it's at now.

I'm 195 pounds naked and started on the fork with the medium spring. I first started getting some hard bottom-outs on small 3 foot drops to flat, then maxxed out the ramp control and spring preload. I then only had bottom out in more extreme situations, but still more than I wanted. I'm currently on the firm spring, 15-18% sag, ramp control somewhere in the middle and the preload about 1 turn in. Excellent initial stroke, mid stroke support and bottom out. I never really feel the bottom-outs anymore, but I do get full fork travel on most aggressive rides.

Anyway, just wanted to make some more noise from a satisfied customer and communicate some experience with my setup.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

.thumper. said:


> I know people experiencing issues are generally more vocal than those who are satisfied, so I'll speak up here. I've been on my Ribbon Coil for about 4 months now and 380 miles. I have been very happy with mine out of the box. I'm super stoked on how it is very active over the rough stuff but still rides high in the travel. I initially had some issues with bottoming the fork and it took me a little while to sort out, but am really happy with where it's at now.
> 
> I'm 195 pounds naked and started on the fork with the medium spring. I first started getting some hard bottom-outs on small 3 foot drops to flat, then maxxed out the ramp control and spring preload. I then only had bottom out in more extreme situations, but still more than I wanted. I'm currently on the firm spring, 15-18% sag, ramp control somewhere in the middle and the preload about 1 turn in. Excellent initial stroke, mid stroke support and bottom out. I never really feel the bottom-outs anymore, but I do get full fork travel on most aggressive rides.
> 
> Anyway, just wanted to make some more noise from a satisfied customer and communicate some experience with my setup.


What kind of bike are you riding?


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## .thumper. (Jan 13, 2005)

Porch said:


> What kind of bike are you riding?


Guerrilla Gravity - The Smash. With a Push Elevensix shock.

I also forgot to mention that I started at 150mm travel and when I swapped the spring, I went to 155mm.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

Interesting. I'm 185lbs with a 65* HTA (@160mm) bike running at 165mm and I think I bottomed out my light spring once. I always ride with everything wide open. With yours at 155mm I'm guessing your HTA is within 1/2-3/4* from mine. Seems there's just some manufacturing variance on these forks. Mine is probably one of the earlier ones made.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

.thumper. said:


> Anyway, just wanted to make some more noise from a satisfied customer and communicate some experience with my setup.


Thanks Grant!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

robmac48 said:


> I've emailed the shop that I bought them thru but curious if Noah would like to comment?
> 
> Wondering if there's a quality control issue here??


Sorry you're having trouble. I can't really comment without knowing specifics about the fork or having felt it myself. But I have faith in our customer service, tech support, and service departments being able to get you sorted. Hopefully that process has begun.

Feel free to contact us directly. I'm not discouraging you from going through your shop, but we don't require it, and it can expedite the process (especially during busy shop months).


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

So I just watched the Air to Coil conversion vido and it looks simple. No more complicated that adjusting travel on the air version, which I have done several times.

Being that I can do this in my garage, those of you that have either owned both, or converted from air to coil, would you say the performance difference is worth the 140$ to upgrade?


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## rorhound (Aug 23, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> So I just watched the Air to Coil conversion vido and it looks simple. No more complicated that adjusting travel on the air version, which I have done several times.
> 
> Being that I can do this in my garage, those of you that have either owned both, or converted from air to coil, would you say the performance difference is worth the 140$ to upgrade?


Yes, once I put the correct spring for my weight/riding level/bike specifics.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

What spring weight would you guys recommend? I’m 205# (210-ish geared up) and years of racing dirt bikes means I prefer to just dump truck over everything and I’m considerably better at going downhill than uphill. 

I’m thinking firm spring in my 140mm Trail Pistola. 

Thoughts?


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> What spring weight would you guys recommend? I'm 205# (210-ish geared up) and years of racing dirt bikes means I prefer to just dump truck over everything and I'm considerably better at going downhill than uphill.
> 
> I'm thinking firm spring in my 140mm Trail Pistola.
> 
> Thoughts?


Really hard to tell mate until you get the forks. Looking thru this thread the chosen spring seems to vary greatly. For example I'm 185-190lbs and running the soft spring and have never bottomed it. thumper is 195lbs and is bottoming the firm spring.

You would think you would need the firm or extra firm but I'm not sure enough to put any money on it.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

There's a chart on MRP's site, here: https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...015388/Ribbon_Spring_Table_2.jpg?format=1500w

From my experience, if you're borderline, go with the softer spring. But obviously there is some variance in these forks.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I'm thinking firm spring in my 140mm Trail Pistola.


I'm thinking firm too. I'm 175lbs. today and use a soft (with preload) in my 170mm 27.5" that's on my Firebird, and a medium in my 150mm 29" that's on my Switchblade.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

I'm 155-160LBS riding weight and use a soft spring. Its perfect for my type of terrain and riding, rocky tech ups and downs with occasional drops. I like to save the last few mm for the screwed up landings. The fork is plenty plush for me. I have the 160 27.5 coil BTW.


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## mark59 (Nov 11, 2006)

I have been reading this thread and there is allot of mixed reviews . I wanted to pull the trigger on this fork because I would like to try a coil on my Remedy I just put an X2 on the rear and it blew me away how much better it was then the stock Reactive shock. I thought If I can improve the front as much as I did the rear I would be in heaven. And I was about to put the Push coil in the Lyric which is on the Remedy I have now, but super leary about the half pound weight increase with the Push coil . So I searched around and found this thread . I can put the Ribbon coil on and keep my bike light as it is now . I will be at the Sea Otter in a few weeks I see the MRP boys will have a booth there and I will be pulling on there shirt tails to learn more. Anyone have any thoughts about me putting Ribbon Coil on my Remedy ?


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

I’m about to move my Ribbon Coil over to a new sled. I forgot which offset I bought , 46 or 51. Is there an easy way to tell or measure to check?


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## gdmack (Nov 14, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Thanks Grant!


For what it's worth I just received my Ribbon Coil last night on my Guerrilla Gravity The Smash and it felt like absolute butter straight out of the box. I'm coming off a 36 which had a ton of stiction initially and only really loosened up after about 100km.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

mark59 said:


> <snip> Anyone have any thoughts about me putting Ribbon Coil on my Remedy ?


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

ScottieM8 said:


> I'm 155-160LBS riding weight and use a soft spring. Its perfect for my type of terrain and riding, rocky tech ups and downs with occasional drops. I like to save the last few mm for the screwed up landings. The fork is plenty plush for me. I have the 160 27.5 coil BTW.


This describes me pretty well too. Except that I also have wet roots to contend with where the Ribbon Coil works very well.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Curveball said:


> This describes me pretty well too. Except that I also have wet roots to contend with where the Ribbon Coil works very well.


So 150lbs without gear? I'm 150lbs and I'm debating the Soft vs Extra Soft.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Is there an easy way to tell or measure to check?


I *think* your serial number will start with 7 if it's the 46mm. I'll double check.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> I *think* your serial number will start with 7 if it's the 46mm. I'll double check.


I bought the 51mm offset and my S/N starts with a 9.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Penny said:


> So 150lbs without gear? I'm 150lbs and I'm debating the Soft vs Extra Soft.


About 156 without gear and maybe around 165 with it all on. I'm running the soft spring.

If I were 150 with gear on, then I'd probably get the extra soft spring.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Penny said:


> I am also having similar issues. I weigh 150lbs and have a 27.5 160mm Air. At the recommended settings - 62/67 - I only use about 75% of the travel and my hands are sore after riding. I've slowly been dropping the psi, and I'm now at 45/49. It's feeling better now, not amazing, but it seems really low; in fact it's what they recommend for someone at 110lbs. Even at that pressure, it's tough to bottom out. My seated sag is 20% and aggressive standing sag is 25%. At this point I am strongly considering a coil conversion. I have to talk to Noah when he returns.


I set it to 50/59, 12 clicks out on rebound, 0 comp, 0 ramp. It definitely feels much better than the 60psi recommendation and I used all but 1" of travel. It still feels a little rough at slower speed, but feels really good at speed through tech. I may speed up the rebound a click or two and try 48/56. In the end I may end up converting to a coil anyway, but today's ride felt much better.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

I finally got two rides in on my newly overhauled ribbon. The fork feels much better. With no air in the fork there is noticeably less stiction. The fork motion feels much more linear now whereas before I felt it moved in a step-wise manner. On the trail, the fork is much more responsive especially to small stuff at speed. Finally I get that floating feeling that I expected. I'm even able to run some compression damping without the fork feeling overly stiff. I still need to dial in the settings, but I think this is going to be a very good fork. Credit to MRP and Noah for excellent customer service and sorting out my problem very quickly.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

^^
Was that an air or Coil fork? 

Finally got the ribbon coil onto some proper tracks, Derby Tasmania that hosted the EWS last year.
So impressed with the fork, out on the trail it is amazing, controlled and smooth is how I would describe it. One thing I have noticed is over the coil compared to the Pike, it doesn't sink deep into its travel, it is very supportive straight off the bat and right through the travel I used.

Speaking of which I probably only used 70% travel on even the biggest moments, but it never felt remotely harsh. Given that I'm running no preload and no ramp control on the light spring I think the x-light spring could work, might give even better small bump and I've got the ramp and preload to adjust if it bottoms out too much. 

In my experience Id say the car park test is irrelevant, this fork performs beyond exception on the trail, probably even more so the rougher it gets. 

100% user happiness here.


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

B Rabbit said:


> ^^
> Was that an air or Coil fork?
> 
> Finally got the ribbon coil onto some proper tracks, Derby Tasmania that hosted the EWS last year.
> ...


Exactly how mine felt to begin with then just seemed to degrade. Fingers crossed mine just slipped thru the cracks and you don't experience the same.

MRP are great to deal with btw,


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

Hi all,

Thanks for all the great posts. I got my Ribbon from Guerrilla Gravity about two weeks ago (actually slightly less than 2 weeks ago) and I'm still trying to dial it in and looking for feedback. I'm 203 naked. I'm running the 29er 140mm air fork on a Trail Pistol. Ride somewhat aggressively (but not crazy).

I'm wondering if I have the stiction issue that has been discussed. I'm experimenting with different settings and the recommended 90+/99- setting for my weight feels harsh on small bumps and bigger hits. Dropping pressure to around 80+/90- feels a bit better but still harsh. 70+/80- feels plush but definitely bottoms out on 1 foot drops (i have kept ramp control low to try to find the right pressure setting first) and feels like it rides pretty low in its travel. I probably have around 30% sag at that pressure (so too much). So I can say i'm not getting the plushness that I was expecting. I'm coming off a 2017 Pike (the one with the shitty shim stack) and I'm not getting the vast improvement I thought I would. Any thoughts here? My fork is brand spankin' new so I kind of thought we would be over the stiction issues. I've got faith that MRP and GG will get it sorted (so this is not an angry post ) but figured I'd throw it out there to the group for input and suggestions on additional tuning ideas. 

Incidentally, my Ribbon's first ride was on the Ribbon trail. I'll be heading back out to GJ next weekend so theoretically I could bring the fork in to get checked out (I still have a backup Pike I could ride worst case).

Thanks gang, shred on.


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

B Rabbit said:


> ^^
> Was that an air or Coil fork?


My fork is air.

Piano- You might try letting the air out of the fork (and even taking out the valve cores). You should be able to get a better feel then for how smoothly the fork is moving just by actuating it by hand. If the fork resists motion and then breaks loose noticeably then maybe something is not right. The action in my fork now feels very linear: a small force will result in a small change in travel. Prior to the fix, a small force did nothing and then with more force eventually the resistance would be overcome and the fork would jump quite a ways into the travel. Depending on how it feels, you might get a better idea whether you have a settings issue or something more serious.


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

ChampionSleeper said:


> My fork is air.
> 
> Piano- You might try letting the air out of the fork (and even taking out the valve cores). You should be able to get a better feel then for how smoothly the fork is moving just by actuating it by hand. If the fork resists motion and then breaks loose noticeably then maybe something is not right. The action in my fork now feels very linear: a small force will result in a small change in travel. Prior to the fix, a small force did nothing and then with more force eventually the resistance would be overcome and the fork would jump quite a ways into the travel. Depending on how it feels, you might get a better idea whether you have a settings issue or something more serious.


Thanks for the idea ChampionSleeper, will try that tonight


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

So letting the bike sit upside down for a while has helped immensely. I did that and then went back to close to MRP's reccomended air pressures (90+/99-) and it rode high in its travel but was pretty damn supple. It beat me up a tiny pit on the successive water bars (but that might just be where coil has the advantage). I'm going to keep fiddling but vast improvement already. On, and ChampionSleeper, not much stiction at all when I let all the air out and tested. Thanks again. I'd say it now feels better than that shitty Pike  so we are getting there.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

pianoman84d said:


> So letting the bike sit upside down for a while has helped immensely. I did that and then went back to close to MRP's reccomended air pressures (90+/99-) and it rode high in its travel but was pretty damn supple. It beat me up a tiny pit on the successive water bars (but that might just be where coil has the advantage). I'm going to keep fiddling but vast improvement already. On, and ChampionSleeper, not much stiction at all when I let all the air out and tested.  Thanks again. I'd say it now feels better than that shitty Pike  so we are getting there.


So what does that remedy, exactly? Lubing up the seals at the top?


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

robmac48 said:


> Exactly how mine felt to begin with then just seemed to degrade. Fingers crossed mine just slipped thru the cracks and you don't experience the same.
> 
> MRP are great to deal with btw,


Mine (pre-coil) would always degrade while riding. Usually about halfway down a long downhill run my arms would start getting hammered. Figured it was some kind of seal swelling or lubrication issue (store my bikes upside-down, which, by the way, is not a permanent fix ). Hopefully MRP will have some air spring updates out for the next year of forks...I love my coil but it's hard to beat the adjustability/weight of an air fork.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

210-215# rider geared up. Just pulled the trigger on a coil conversion and firm spring.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> 210-215# rider geared up. Just pulled the trigger on a coil conversion and firm spring.


Might want to order an additional spring that is one step down...I'm 235-240 geared on Firm and have a hard time finding bottom on it...riding aggr AM, chunk, drops to transition.


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

CharacterZero said:


> So what does that remedy, exactly? Lubing up the seals at the top?


I guess...


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

Porch said:


> Mine (pre-coil) would always degrade while riding. Usually about halfway down a long downhill run my arms would start getting hammered. Figured it was some kind of seal swelling or lubrication issue (store my bikes upside-down, which, by the way, is not a permanent fix ). Hopefully MRP will have some air spring updates out for the next year of forks...I love my coil but it's hard to beat the adjustability/weight of an air fork.


Haven't had mine out on a long enough ride to test this. But i've now felt what the fork can be like, so if it does degrade mid-ride i'll be sending to MRP to diagnose/fix.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

CharacterZero said:


> Might want to order an additional spring that is one step down...I'm 235-240 geared on Firm and have a hard time finding bottom on it...riding aggr AM, chunk, drops to transition.


Thanks for the tip. It prompted me to call MRP and talk to Jarred (sorry if I butchered the spelling) and he's exactly my weight running a 29er 140mm Ribbon coil. He strongly recommended the Medium spring and said the same thing you did. He has a friend about ~235# who also bought a firm and ended up swapping to a medium!


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## josephtan_89 (Oct 31, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> Please contact our service manager for more technical problems like this [email protected]
> 
> It's getting to the time of year where I'm traveling frequently, so questions beyond setup suggestions or product specifics are better dealt with through traditional channels. But I'll certainly still be active on here! If you need an answer on anything ASAP, call or e-mail the office.


Hey Noah,

Would you be able to share with me your email address as well?
Would like to include you into the email loop.

My fork is in very bad shape now i guess.

There are small marks on the stanchion similar to Christoffer's post
MRP Ribbon - Page 8- Mtbr.com

I recon the fork needs to be replaced.

Do get back to me quickly on this.

Cheers,
Joseph


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry about that.
> 
> We're short on springs and stanchions.


Hey Noah, so this ribbon coil fork was ordered through worldwide. Was originally supposed to ship on 3/9. Then moved out to 4/21. Now they are telling me you guys will miss that date as well and it should ship to worldwide on the 30th or 31st of April but that MRP won't commit to a firm ETA. What is going on?? Need something to give me confidence you guys will hit the end of April date. I've got a new build all built up waiting for this fork :/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

jasec79 said:


> Hey Noah, so this ribbon coil fork was ordered through worldwide. Was originally supposed to ship on 3/9. Then moved out to 4/21. Now they are telling me you guys will miss that date as well and it should ship to worldwide on the 30th or 31st of April but that MRP won't commit to a firm ETA. What is going on?? Need something to give me confidence you guys will hit the end of April date. I've got a new build all built up waiting for this fork :/
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have you tried calling MRP? Noah can't be on here constantly. But when I've called they're always super responsive and helpful. I had a similar issue. Monday I ordered a coil conversion from Universal Cycles but they were out of springs and had no ETA. Cancelled the order and called MRP They had everything in stock. My Tuesday order will be here by Saturday.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

So, this might be worthy of a new thread but whats the deal with the new DH fork the Bartlett. Does it have a tapered steerer or a straight one? Will it be able to run coil?
MRP have been busy it seems! It could be a nice match for a Nomad 4.......

I've also ordered a extra soft spring for my 170 Ribbon Coil through my LBS, 3 week or so wait from the Importer here in Oz.


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

Popping back in to say that the fork is feeling better and better. Through experimenting, I've found that some of the harshness I was feeling seems to be attributable to having the pressures too low and blowing through travel on sustained hits. So if you are experiencing similar issues, I'd say try more pressure. Right now, I'm about right where the MRP chart recommends for my riding weight and it is feeling pretty good.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> I *think* your serial number will start with 7 if it's the 46mm. I'll double check.


Thanks Noah. Mine starts with 9, so maybe it's a 51mm offset not the 46mm offset.

Is the offset change in the crown? I'm guessing that you guys make 2 crowns.

One that is for the 51mm offset 29er.

The other does double duty as the 44 mm offset 27.5 or 46 mm offset 29er/27.5+.

Any idea on the cost to swap the crown/steerer?


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Getting a 29er. My 27.5 160mm Air is up for sale. 7” steerer. Message me if interested.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

pianoman84d said:


> Popping back in to say that the fork is feeling better and better. Through experimenting, I've found that some of the harshness I was feeling seems to be attributable to having the pressures too low and blowing through travel on sustained hits. So if you are experiencing similar issues, I'd say try more pressure. Right now, I'm about right where the MRP chart recommends for my riding weight and it is feeling pretty good.


People in the dirt bike world make the same mistake of assuming harshness is due to being too firm only to find lowering compression doesn't fix the problem.


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Have you tried calling MRP? Noah can't be on here constantly. But when I've called they're always super responsive and helpful. I had a similar issue. Monday I ordered a coil conversion from Universal Cycles but they were out of springs and had no ETA. Cancelled the order and called MRP They had everything in stock. My Tuesday order will be here by Saturday.


Did that this morning. And my fork shipped out today! Coincidence or not, I'm excited!  lol


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I got a Ribbon coil on a GG bike. Out of the box it's working as expected...buttery smooth. This is the first Ribbon I've seen in the flesh. Nice looking fork. I'm excited to put her through her paces this summer. I've been on Pikes for the last 5yrs so it's nice to change it up. :thumbsup:


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## jquackjr (Oct 11, 2010)

ANOTHER TORQUE CAP QUESTION..Noah, ready to pull the trigger for a Ribbon, but the standard hub used with my RS Pike has torque caps. Apparently these are "formula" brand hubs. not sure how I can convert or get rid of the torque caps to fit the Ribbon. Any thought form Noah or anyone else..short of new hub and rebuild rim..that is... unsure if any other aftermarket offerings to convert. 

Also, if the torque caps are supposed to improve the interface and stiffen the front wheel /fork interaction, why not utilize them with the ribbon design?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

jquackjr said:


> Also, if the torque caps are supposed to improve the interface and stiffen the front wheel /fork interaction, why not utilize them with the ribbon design?


Maybe MRP doesn't buy into the hype of a few % more surface area contact allegedly giving you significant stiffness increase?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm thinking firm too. I'm 175lbs. today and use a soft (with preload) in my 170mm 27.5" that's on my Firebird, and a medium in my 150mm 29" that's on my Switchblade.


Wish I had seen this. I spoke with someone at MRP who recommended Medium. I am bottoming it out with the preload washer installed, preload screwed all the way in and ramp control 100% on. Shoulda went Firm. :madman:


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

The ribbon coil showed up today! Installed and trail ready, hoping things are dry enough tomorrow for a first ride and to get it sorted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bigdrunk (Feb 21, 2004)

I just received my ribbon coil today as well. Building a new boost front wheel now. Travel change tonight. Can’t wait to try it.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Wish I had seen this. I spoke with someone at MRP who recommended Medium. I am bottoming it out with the preload washer installed, preload screwed all the way in and ramp control 100% on. Shoulda went Firm. :madman:


I'm 215lbs, ride hard and using medium. I don't do big drops (more than 5 feet) often, but plow through Colorado chunk at high speed and do tons of 2 to 4 foot drops. Don't think MRP was wrong, just different preferences and riding styles.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> I'm 215lbs, ride hard and using medium. I don't do big drops (more than 5 feet) often, but plow through Colorado chunk at high speed and do tons of 2 to 4 foot drops. Don't think MRP was wrong, just different preferences and riding styles.


Even overnighting they couldn't get a firm here by tomorrow and I leave for Pisgah 6am Friday. I am going to ride it all weekend and see how it works then call Erci back and make a final decision on the firm spring. I did a little 2' drop today and heard a CLUNK! Set the ramp all the way in and hit it again. It still bottomed out. Just not as violently.


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## bigdrunk (Feb 21, 2004)

After building a new boost front wheel today I was just able to install my Ribbon coil. Dumping the travel down to 140mm was pretty simple. The extra A2C height was very noticeable when compared to my Fox 140mm (this is the only negative for me). 

The adjustments on the Ribbon are intuitive and easy to deal with. Can’t wait to dial it in. 

When I stumbled across the Ribbon coil I jumped on it immediately. I feel like I have spent over 10 years trying to get air forks behave like a coil fork but never quite getting there. The .5lb weight penalty is a no brainer to get a fork this smooth.


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## mtnallen (Aug 29, 2017)

Hey ya'lls! Love seeing the shots of your bikes with the Ribbon here in this thread. If any of you would like to share your bike builds, shoot a photo to [email protected]. Include your name and your social tag (if you like). We'll include it in our FB and Instagram "Ribbon Bike Checks" posts.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Noah or anyone...is there a video or PDF manual for dropping the lowers on a Ribbon coil to change the oil and seals? I'm in BC so I'll probably send the fork to Suspension Werx for the damper service once a year, but I want to be able to do the more frequent and less complex tasks at home. 

I had a look at the website tech support section and didn't see this info.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

here you go vik, it's a very simple process. https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...0127901/RIBBON_COIL_OWNERS_MANUAL_Rev_1_1.pdf

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta.../RIBBON_COIL_SPRING_AND_TRAVEL_CHANGE_1_1.pdf


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pedrosalas7 said:


> here you go vik, it's a very simple process. https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...0127901/RIBBON_COIL_OWNERS_MANUAL_Rev_1_1.pdf
> 
> https://static1.squarespace.com/sta.../RIBBON_COIL_SPRING_AND_TRAVEL_CHANGE_1_1.pdf


Thanks.


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## bikerider30 (Feb 12, 2015)

Figured I would throw in my .02c. Just put the 170 Ribbon coil on my YT Capra. I had the BOS Deville on there and never liked it. The Ribbon does have some stiction off the top but got a bit better during the ride. Not as good as my buddies DVO but I will get another ride in before I make any final judgements. It does have exactly what I was looking for and that is the mid support that the BOS did not have. Very stable and controlled on the steep stuff. I put the SOFT spring in myself with no issues. At 160lb and fairly aggressive rider I had COMP and RAMP control all the way out and only bottomed it once. I ordered the X-SOFT spring and will put that in this weekend and try again. Happy so far. Time to order the HAZZARD!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

jquackjr said:


> ANOTHER TORQUE CAP QUESTION..Noah, ready to pull the trigger for a Ribbon, but the standard hub used with my RS Pike has torque caps. Apparently these are "formula" brand hubs. not sure how I can convert or get rid of the torque caps to fit the Ribbon. Any thought form Noah or anyone else..short of new hub and rebuild rim..that is... unsure if any other aftermarket offerings to convert.
> 
> Also, if the torque caps are supposed to improve the interface and stiffen the front wheel /fork interaction, why not utilize them with the ribbon design?


Sorry for the late reply, I've been on the road quite a bit the last month.

I can't point you to a source for endcaps for your Formula hub. I feel your pain.

We don't make a Torque cap compatible lower because the hubs are not very common and accommodating them would make the wheel install process for standard hubs less friendly.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> Any idea on the cost to swap the crown/steerer?


Pretty costly. I don't have an estimate, but it would be pretty laborious. Shoot an email to our general e-mail address and the service department can give you specifics.

We could re-use the stanchions if done in house, I believe.


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

bikerider30 said:


> Figured I would throw in my .02c. Just put the 170 Ribbon coil on my YT Capra. I had the BOS Deville on there and never liked it. The Ribbon does have some stiction off the top but got a bit better during the ride. Not as good as my buddies DVO but I will get another ride in before I make any final judgements. It does have exactly what I was looking for and that is the mid support that the BOS did not have. Very stable and controlled on the steep stuff. I put the SOFT spring in myself with no issues. At 160lb and fairly aggressive rider I had COMP and RAMP control all the way out and only bottomed it once. I ordered the X-SOFT spring and will put that in this weekend and try again. Happy so far. Time to order the HAZZARD!!


I have several rides in now on mine. I have the travel set at 170 on a turner rfx. I thought the medium spring would be perfect as I'm ~ 190 out of the shower but I was only using about 60% of the travel aggressively riding some pretty gnarly descents with no preload and ramp control dialed all the way out-and the fork just felt harsh. However, switched out to the soft spring and have everything dialed in now and this fork is AWESOME and so smooth even on the biggest hits. I'm not getting any of the stiction others have mentioned. Still surprised the soft spring and minimal preload is what works for me at my weight but the fork is performing well so that's not an issue at all. Satisfied for sure! 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## freebiker (Mar 19, 2006)

Ribbon coil rips w stock med spring and just 3 clicks from full open bottom out control, fully open compression at 225 lbs rider weight.


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

freebiker said:


> Ribbon coil rips w stock med spring and just 3 clicks from full open bottom out control, fully open compression at 225 lbs rider weight.


I'm 215 and run the medium spring too. No preload.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

freebiker and ShredlyMcShredface, are you guys on 170s?


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> freebiker and ShredlyMcShredface, are you guys on 170s?


I'm on a 150, but I ride "light". It's funny, I break frames all the time ( about 1 per year) due to my weight and I ride rough trails. But I never ever damage rims. I think that style of riding translates well to soft forks.

I have the firm spring too, which I also like. I haven't decided which spring I like better yet.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ShredlyMcShredface said:


> I'm on a 150, but I ride "light". It's funny, I break frames all the time ( about 1 per year) due to my weight and I ride rough trails. But I never ever damage rims. I think that style of riding translates well to soft forks.


So why not FloatyMcFloatface? Was that taken?


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> So why not FloatyMcFloatface? Was that taken?


I didn't want to brag, I'm a humble shredly


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

Okay, looking for a bit of feedback. My fork sat for about a week and a half (boo, work). Rode it today on a pretty smooth trail (Pool and Ice in Eagle on the way to GJ for a work visit - woot woot!) and I definitely felt the brake bumps more than expected. Properly set up, how supple are your AIR forks on brake bumps? I took all air out (both pos and neg) and it seems pretty easy to initiate travel. Anyone have thoughts?


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## eshew (Jan 30, 2004)

Has anyone who is experiencing stiction on either the air or coil models popped up the dust seals and placed a liberal amount of slick honey/slickoleum under the dust seals. Or anyone who has gone a step further & pulled the lowers and smeared the slick honey/slickoleum on the bushings & retested?

That's my go to approach to solve any stiction issues with all the forks my friends & I ride. Even under the dust cap on an open bath DC Shiver works magic. Although you do have to bring a rag to clean off the stanchions on the first ride, you'll get a fair amount on the stanctions on the first ride.

It's worked on a Marz 55 RC3 Ti, the PO swapped out the stock oil for some lighter weight stuff for the open bath trying to get it working correctly for his 120lb GF & I convinced my riding buddy to buy it cheap. Mint condition. He installed it, and the amount of stiction was terrifying. I hoped for the best, but it was BAAAD. Changed the oil & applied Slickoluem liberally to the bushings & between the dust & oil seals.... No stiction whatsoever, still going strong from that service 2 years ago.

The time before was the same friend who has my freshly rebuild (from a great DH bike shop) Dual Crown Shiver. He needed a fork for his DH sled. Before our last trip to Whistler (getting ready to load the bikes on the rack) I noticed the fork was not fully decompressing... figured popping the dust seals up & adding some slickoluem couldn't hurt. It took some effort & patience to get the seals up(down, inverted fork) but I got it done. Shoved a bunch in there. Immediate improvement. Cleaned off the excess grease on the stanchions & my friend was blown away at the difference.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

*MRP Predator Fork*

Since The Predator trailer was released today, it got me thinking Damn, MRP should have named this fork the *MRP Predator Fork*!!


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

eshew said:


> Has anyone who is experiencing stiction on either the air or coil models popped up the dust seals and placed a liberal amount of slick honey/slickoleum under the dust seals. Or anyone who has gone a step further & pulled the lowers and smeared the slick honey/slickoleum on the bushings & retested?
> 
> That's my go to approach to solve any stiction issues with all the forks my friends & I ride. Even under the dust cap on an open bath DC Shiver works magic. Although you do have to bring a rag to clean off the stanchions on the first ride, you'll get a fair amount on the stanctions on the first ride.
> 
> ...


It's not a lubrication issue.


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

Porch said:


> It's not a lubrication issue.


Agreed. I lubed everything multiple times to no avail. Stiction imo due to slack tolerances in my fork.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pianoman84d said:


> Okay, looking for a bit of feedback. My fork sat for about a week and a half (boo, work).


Did it sit upright? If so, flip it over to let the oil bath hit the wipers. If it just sat, and then you rode smooth stuff, oil probably never appropriately splashed around the lowers.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Ive been flipping my bikes upside down before a ride for for years. I was told to do this from a buddy that was a mechanic/racer for the reason Noah stated. Makes sense since the lubrication oil goes to the bottom even after a couple of days of sitting. So do it while you put on your pack, check pressures etc etc. All my buddies flip their bikes too no matter what brand of forks they ride and it's a noticeable difference than not doing it.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

I disagree on the Slick Honey not helping. Even before converting to coil, dropping the lowers and lubing the bushings and seals really well made a world of difference. After doing the same and converting to coil, it is buttery smooth now!


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

It did sit upright and that makes sense although I did have it hanging in a north shore style rack for the drive from Denver to Eagle. That would have the fork more horizontal, but maybe not enough to lube things up.


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Just got my Ribbon Air for my Honzo...noticed that it was leaking oil/fluid from the drive side PSST valve......i have waited almost 7 weeks for the fork to show up....

Is that normal when laying down in the box?


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

derek1387 said:


> Just got my Ribbon Air for my Honzo...noticed that it was leaking oil/fluid from the drive side PSST valve......i have waited almost 7 weeks for the fork to show up....
> 
> Is that normal when laying down in the box?[/QUOT
> 
> Mine did that out of the box because the lubrication oil migrated to that area. After install and a few rides later, no more oil going out of the psst valve. IMO, its a good to know there is oil in the lowers. I've had forks from the other brands that had little to no lubrication when I drop the lowers.


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## CWnSWCO (Apr 24, 2012)

Yes, I think that's just some oil that got into the air chamber. It is likely a minuscule amount, will go away, and won't impact performance.


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Perfect. I assumed it was OK/Normal. But just wanted to confirm before getting it and riding it 

Is the settings chart on MRPs website pretty accurate?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

derek1387 said:


> Is the settings chart on MRPs website pretty accurate?


I think so, but if anything it's skewed to the firm/aggressive side. I created it based on my own and test rider feedback. We go off this chart when setting up demos unless someone specifically asks for a softer or firmer feel.

Since you're on a hardtail, I bet you'll like the stock/standard recommendation.


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## bikerider30 (Feb 12, 2015)

bikerider30 said:


> Figured I would throw in my .02c. Just put the 170 Ribbon coil on my YT Capra. I had the BOS Deville on there and never liked it. The Ribbon does have some stiction off the top but got a bit better during the ride. Not as good as my buddies DVO but I will get another ride in before I make any final judgements. It does have exactly what I was looking for and that is the mid support that the BOS did not have. Very stable and controlled on the steep stuff. I put the SOFT spring in myself with no issues. At 160lb and fairly aggressive rider I had COMP and RAMP control all the way out and only bottomed it once. I ordered the X-SOFT spring and will put that in this weekend and try again. Happy so far. Time to order the HAZZARD!!


Follow up. Put the Xsoft spring in and with another ride it is awesome! No stiction, small bump compliancy is awesome and still have the mid travel support I am looking for. I still have comp backed all the way off at the moment. It was not an aggressive ride so may have to turn that up when we get to the good stuff!! I like it.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

According to the chart, you are borderline soft/xsoft. With Xsoft, do you have a lot of preload or are you running minimal preload?


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## bikerider30 (Feb 12, 2015)

bmwzimmer said:


> According to the chart, you are borderline soft/xsoft. With Xsoft, do you have a lot of preload or are you running minimal preload?


0 preload gives me 23% sag.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

What is your sag with the soft spring and no preload?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

my ride observations:

Me - btw 160-165 depending on previous nights food/beer.
Bike - Spot Rollik
Fork - 160mm Coil
Where - front range CO - Apex is the "goto"... everything else depending on day, work etc..
As a rider - older but reasonably aggressive and more-so than many. Ham fist and ride off the back many days - means i make some sketchy line choice and bang into rocks a lot 

Started w Soft spring. Felt great - awesome actually. Only able to get about 100-120mm travel max - so decided to go X-soft - and use the tuning controls if necessary.

Well - back to soft. Couldn't get the fork to feel as good even if i got near/full travel. Used Ramp, LSC and rebound but just couldn't get the feel/composure back.

First ride back on Soft with no LSC, recommended rebound and minimal ramp and the fork was spot on - brought the balance back to the bike and i matched some DH PR's i was struggling to get even close to. Still leaving a good amount of travel on the table, but the fork is working better for me now. Also - it really quieted the damper - i suspect because the spring is doing work the damper/ramp were trying to do before?? Not an engineer - just hypothesis... 

So - what this lesson taught me - im not worried about the travel left behind anymore as the travel its using is brilliant!! With ramp control while on the X-soft i could really tune that last bit of travel and either bottom (on really big stuff) or tune it out. But never got a great feel from fork. Sag - not gonna worry about that either for the Coil...


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

kamper11 said:


> my ride observations:
> 
> Me - btw 160-165 depending on previous nights food/beer.
> Bike - Spot Rollik
> ...


Interesting...I've got a 150mm coil with medium spring and I'm ~200lbs ready to ride. I use up full travel or almost full travel each ride. My current riding is chunky, but slowish. So I was thinking I may try a firm spring. My ramp control is mostly open so I may just try dialling in more RC as speeds pick up.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

vikb said:


> Interesting...I've got a 150mm coil with medium spring and I'm ~200lbs ready to ride. I use up full travel or almost full travel each ride. My current riding is chunky, but slowish. So I was thinking I may try a firm spring. My ramp control is mostly open so I may just try dialling in more RC as speeds pick up.


I am 205 but using 100% ramp and 100% pre-load on a medium spring and bottomed out countless times in a single day in Pisgah. It's interesting how different riding styles clearly dictate the spring required.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I am 205 but using 100% ramp and 100% pre-load on a medium spring and bottomed out countless times in a single day in Pisgah. It's interesting how different riding styles clearly dictate the spring required.


Yup. It seems like people are less alarmed about straying from the recommended air-pressure settings - when they're off the recommended coil spring rates by one or two springs they panic though. It's okay, the saying "different strokes for different folks" has never been more fitting. 

So, here's me at 170 lbs. today:

29" 150 Ribbon Coil. Pivot Switchblade. Medium. Middle preload, max Ramp. (had same setup plus more preload at 140 previous)
27.5" 170 Ribbon Coil. Pivot Firebird. Soft spring. 1/4 preload. 1/2 Ramp.

I bottom out both with regularity, but not overly frequently. Rarely is it a harsh bottom out. On a semi-chill ride - especially on the Firebird - I may have as much as 20mm unused.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Noah, based on the settings for travel adjustment, instructions tell you how to set the 29er fork to 14, 15, or 160. But If I went in 5mm increments I could essentially have a 145mm 29er as well right? 

I wanna try 145mm on ,y Trail Pistol if so. 140 is "enough" and 150 "walks" too much when climbing. Trying 145mm seems like fun for fun sake if that theory is correct.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Noah, based on the settings for travel adjustment, instructions tell you how to set the 29er fork to 14, 15, or 160. But If I went in 5mm increments I could essentially have a 145mm 29er as well right?
> 
> I wanna try 145mm on ,y Trail Pistol if so. 140 is "enough" and 150 "walks" too much when climbing. Trying 145mm seems like fun for fun sake if that theory is correct.


Yeah, you're talking coil, right? Air can be adjusted in 5mm increments. Coil can technically be adjusted in infinite increments since the adjustment occurs on a threaded rod.


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## softbatch (Aug 19, 2014)

Noah, when is Pivot coming out with a LT 29er?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Has anyone experience a "spongy" feeling in the mid stroke of a Ribbon Coil?

I had a medium spring in and decided it was just too soft. Fork worked perfectly, zero stiction and smooth all the way through the stroke. I swapped in the firm spring and now suddenly have a strange feeling in the fork. It still travels smoothly and has no noticeable stiction. But in the mid stroke (compressing and rebounding) there's an odd feeling and a very light sound. It almost sounds and feels like dragging a rubber eraser across your desk. 

It is weird and hard to describe. I thought maybe I hadn't greased the spring well enough and the rubber isolator int the middle of the spring and it was maybe causing rubber on metal friction inside the stanchion. So I took it apart and added more grease to it (although it was pretty dang slick and well greased already) and reassembled. It didn't seem to really help any.

Any thoughts suggestions?


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## pcro (Sep 1, 2013)

Anyone order or receive a Ribbon Air recently? Wondering what the lead time is right now. Had my shop put in an order yesterday after jonesing for a Ribbon for a full year, I guess I can wait another couple weeks!


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pcro said:


> Anyone order or receive a Ribbon Air recently? Wondering what the lead time is right now. Had my shop put in an order yesterday after jonesing for a Ribbon for a full year, I guess I can wait another couple weeks!


----------> 970.241.3518


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## pcro (Sep 1, 2013)

vikb said:


> ----------> 970.241.3518


Rad. Super clear answer of 4-5 weeks, so I foresee some heavy riding time in the second half of the season.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pcro said:


> Rad. Super clear answer of 4-5 weeks, so I foresee some heavy riding time in the second half of the season.


I had to wait several weeks for my Ribbon. It was worth it.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

pcro said:


> Anyone order or receive a Ribbon Air recently? Wondering what the lead time is right now. Had my shop put in an order yesterday after jonesing for a Ribbon for a full year, I guess I can wait another couple weeks!


Ask if the coil is a shorter lead time. It's better anyways. ?


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

I don't believe that shrink wrap serves any purpose but to color code the springs... for easy identification... check w MRP - but believe you can remove it and no issue - may actually be the cause of both some noise ant stiction

btw - i do know what you are referring to - its gone after my spring swap earlier in the week... x-soft back to soft...


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Has anyone experience a "spongy" feeling in the mid stroke of a Ribbon Coil?
> 
> I had a medium spring in and decided it was just too soft. Fork worked perfectly, zero stiction and smooth all the way through the stroke. I swapped in the firm spring and now suddenly have a strange feeling in the fork. It still travels smoothly and has no noticeable stiction. But in the mid stroke (compressing and rebounding) there's an odd feeling and a very light sound. It almost sounds and feels like dragging a rubber eraser across your desk.
> 
> ...


Did you use slick honey on the o-ring prior to assembling it back together? I smear some inside the stanchion tube also. I just did a spring swap and travel change on my Ribbon coil. Very cool you can set travel in mm increments.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pcro said:


> Rad. Super clear answer of 4-5 weeks, so I foresee some heavy riding time in the second half of the season.





nwenn said:


> 29 x 3 Chupacabra on 45mm id rims (Sun Mulefut 50, 2016 Trek Stache 7 stock wheel) just clears. Probably too tight?
> View attachment 1178187


Saw this earlier in the thread. In case you ever do decide to go larger.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

ScottieM8 said:


> Did you use slick honey on the o-ring prior to assembling it back together? I smear some inside the stanchion tube also. I just did a spring swap and travel change on my Ribbon coil. Very cool you can set travel in mm increments.


Which o ring? I put it on the fork seals.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

Got my Ribbon Coil installed with a Xsoft spring. Put the front of the bike on a scale and it weighs 15lbs. In order to get the fork to break stiction, it take 50lbs of weight. So about 35lbs of force to break initial stiction. My 2016 Dual Position Lyrik which the Ribbon replaces that doesnt have a very large neg air chamber takes takes about 25lbs to break stiction. My buddy’s 18 Fox Evol takes 17-18lbs. My other buddy’s PUSH ACS3 takes just 10-12lbs. I hope after some use the stiction will improve. I went from a Medium spring to Xsoft hoping to improve stiction but it did not help.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Ask if the coil is a shorter lead time. It's better anyways. ?


Coil or air, 27.5 or 29, any offset, etc. won't change lead time. I'm not entirely sure what the lead time is right now, but in general it's 4-5 weeks. That said, we have shipped some US distributor orders recently, so a ship may be able to get one immediately from QBP or BTI. Sometimes individual fork orders can be squeezed in earlier if we have an opening.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> I don't believe that shrink wrap serves any purpose but to color code the springs... for easy identification... check w MRP - but believe you can remove it and no issue - may actually be the cause of both some noise ant stiction
> 
> btw - i do know what you are referring to - its gone after my spring swap earlier in the week... x-soft back to soft...


Don't remove the wrap, it will INCREASE noise. It shields the spring for the stanchion.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

So I got another ride in on my coil fork and am pretty happy with it. A little stiction is there when pressing straight down on the handlebars however there is almost no stiction if you press the fork against a large rock or if you apply the front brake and push the bike forward. In real riding scenarios, the fork is nice and supple off the top on small bumps since the impact on the tire is always at an angle rather than a vertical force. The only time the fork would experience a vertical force is like drop but in those situations I don’t care about initial stroke or stiction and care more about mid/end stroke.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Are you guys seriously measuring stiction with a scale? LOL, I've yet to see a scale out in the woods. If the fork feels good on the trail, who care how much "weight" it takes to break stiction?


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

bmwzimmer said:


> So I got another ride in on my coil fork and am pretty happy with it. The stiction is there when pressing straight down on the handlebars (35lbs) however there is almost no stiction (10 to 15lbs) if you press the fork against a large rock or if you apply the front brake and push the bike forward. In real riding scenarios, the fork is nice and supple off the top on small bumps since the impact on the tire is always at an angle rather than a vertical force. The only time the fork would experience a vertical force is like drop but in those situations I don't care about initial stroke or stiction and care more about mid/end stroke.
> 
> Are you guys getting the same results i've Described? Can you try to quantify the weight needed to break stiction? I just want to confirm if it's normal or not


Very similar to what I wrote a few posts back. On the trail the forces are not nicely lined up in the direction of your fork travel and this is where the problem lies. As soon as the fork is stressed in any other direction and then asked to compress it binds up creating shitloads of stiction and is unable to get through its travel smoothly. 
Interestingly, I found that my Fox 34 lowers felt stiffer than the MRP's when I was fitting the axle. This along with bushings that needed to be resized correctly all contributed to the average functionality of this fork.

Set of DVO's fixed all the issues immediately.


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

I got another ride in with an Xsoft spring. 
I’m 155lbs riding weight on a Trek Slash. HT at 64deg. 
Ended up with ramp control at Max and about six full turns of preload otherwize i would blow through the travel too quickly. As i mentioned, the fork feels good to me when riding or applying the brakes and pushing down. Overall i’m pretty happy with the fork.


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

My ribbon took over 7 weeks from when I placed the order to when it arrived. I ordered thru WWC since i had a bunch of gift cards. If you order thru MRP I would imagine lead time would be faster. 

Just installed on my Following MB, 140mm, air spring. Parking lot test yielded either very minimal to no stiction or I'm just not as sensitive to it as some other people. Compared to the 2014 Fox 34 I was using on my previous bike, its smooth as can be.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

bmwzimmer said:


> I got another ride in with an Xsoft spring.
> I'm 155lbs riding weight on a Trek Slash. HT at 64deg.
> Ended up with ramp control at Max and about six full turns of preload otherwize i would blow through the travel too quickly. As i mentioned, the fork feels good to me when riding or applying the brakes and pushing down. Overall i'm pretty happy with the fork.


Sounds like the soft may be better if you're using full ramp.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

At 205# I was running a medium (as suggested here and by MRP) with full ramp and full preload to keep from bottoming out Installed a firm and finally got to really test it today. It’s perfect. Even at 205# I’m still using 95% of the travel with zero ramp and zero preload but I do have the preload washer installed. 

Maybe I’m too much of a trail bulldog. But I don’t see how people my weight are running a medium and actually happy with it. This thing is DIALED with a firm spring!


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

Penny said:


> Sounds like the soft may be better if you're using full ramp.


It's a small hassle to change so I will stick with it since its working good as of right now


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## bmwzimmer (Nov 4, 2015)

*Pics of the fork on a Slash*

Mated with a Cane Creek DB Coil w/ CS




















1up EDC tool!! :thumbsup:


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

bmwzimmer said:


> Are you guys getting the same results i've Described? Can you try to quantify the weight needed to break stiction? I just want to confirm if it's normal or not


When I press down on my Ribbon Coil at the bars the fork starts to move with very light bar pressure. On the trail it moves freely vs. features and feels like the proverbial butter.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Yup. It seems like people are less alarmed about straying from the recommended air-pressure settings - when they're off the recommended coil spring rates by one or two springs they panic though. It's okay, the saying "different strokes for different folks" has never been more fitting.


This is a solid point, here i am thinking there is something wrong with me at 170lbs never getting close to bottom out once in about 3 months of riding on a 170mm with soft spring, yet I ran my pike probably 20psi below RS recommendations for 2 years and was perfectly happy.

Just waiting to see if the Aust importer has stock of the x-soft yet, my LBS is checking.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

So, after some hard miles on the MRP Ribbon coil I'm finding it a pretty good fork. I'm running a 150mm travel Ribbon on a 275 Knolly Endo. I'm down a few pounds from riding so much lately - geared up I'm about 175-178#. Running the green spring.

The fork feels very good when ridden fast and hard. Slow speed stuff is ok and not as supple as I'd expect from a coil but that may be because I'm at the low end of the spring weight. There seems to be no issues with stiction. I am easily getting 99% of the travel. I needed to up the Ramp Control as the fork was blowing through travel too easily on bigger hits and it felt divey. IIRC I'm at about 5-10 clicks in on the Ramp, and it seems to make a big difference. I'm running maybe 2 clicks of LSC. As I usually set rebound from full open on most forks, and land about mid-point. I can't recall where I'm at on the Ribbon as setting this fork starts from full closed. But, relatively speaking I've seemed to dial in a bit less rebound damping than other forks I run. Zero preload.

Overall I'm very happy with the fork. I had a small issue and was able to speak with MRP directly and that is a huge plus in my book. Not needing a shock pump for my fork or rear shock is also a big plus for me. 

The last hurdle will be to see how easy the fork is for me to drop the lowers for a basic re-lube and seals check.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Miker J said:


> The last hurdle will be to see how easy the fork is for me to drop the lowers for a basic re-lube and seals check.


They have a very easy to follow video on YouTube. To drop the lowers, it probably takes me longer to get the wheel off and remove the brake caliper than actually getting the lowers off.


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

I agree with Stalker. There is no one-time use part like a crush washer on Fox. Also you don’t need any special tool. The damper service seems to be easy enough too. MRP will give an instruction on any service procedure if you ask them. 
I am extremely happy with my Ribbon coil so far. It has coil suppleness with progression adjustment. I am sure Fox 36 with ACS coil conversion is equally or even little better than this but I don’t think average rider like myself can appreciate the difference if there is any. Added weight and extra $350+ don’t seem to be justifiable to me.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Slow speed stuff is ok and not as supple as I'd expect from a coil but that may be because I'm at the low end of the spring weight.


Thinking out loud here, but could this be because of the added mid-stroke support over air? I think some of us have become accustomed to our fork readily giving up travel over roots and and rocks at slow speeds. That's great for comfort, but not for speed. With an air-spring being more flat in the initial and mid-stroke, it moves through that stuff. The downside is that when speeds pick up, you're stuck in the rampy part of the stroke and it feels harsh. So, a coil may not move as much (distance-wise), but it should move appropriately (because the spring curve is linear). I would describe it as a "sporty" feel.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

robmac48 said:


> On the trail the forces are not nicely lined up in the direction of your fork travel and this is where the problem lies. As soon as the fork is stressed in any other direction and then asked to compress it binds up creating shitloads of stiction and is unable to get through its travel smoothly. .


I respectfully disagree. The above might be true if you took the wheel out of the equation, but you can't.

IMO (and I think this is echoed in the thread), our forks work best when riding! That's why I discourage people from making assumptions about performance by standing over the bike and cycling the fork (the worst is with the brake on) or riding around a parking lot and jumping up an down. The primary job of the suspension is to handle changes in the ground surface as you ROLL over them. Sure, it needs to have a nice "showroom" feel and handle landings as well, but I believe some manufacturers over-emphasize those characteristics to the detriment of performance on-trail.

But I digress, and I'm genuinely sorry you didn't like the Ribbon. Ride on, and happy trails!


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Sorry i may have mis-spoke a while back about removing the shrink wrap - thought i'd heard it was ok to do via my shop ...

So ultimately - im running the soft spring... all circuits/controls (except rebound) wide open and no preload. Im maxing out at 105mm travel for a 160 fork. It works, not doing anything wonky or bad - but boy it seems like id like to at least be getting an extra inch or so more... Im ok to leave some "oh crap' travel at the end - but 55mm/2+ inches seems a lot.

That said on the x-soft - fork really didnt work so great for me and never got it to feel great over an entire ride... it had its moments. From your recent replies - now i wonder if x-soft plus a decent amount of preload - would be the answer... to keep it riding where it should (maybe i was just to deep in travel all the time), but allow me some tuning w Ramp and LSC?

it may simply be paralysis by analysis as they say - but boy i bought a 160 - sure would love to get most of the 160 - HA!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kamper11 said:


> So ultimately - im running the soft spring... all circuits/controls (except rebound) wide open and no preload. Im maxing out at 105mm travel for a 160 fork. It works, not doing anything wonky or bad - but boy it seems like id like to at least be getting an extra inch or so more... Im ok to leave some "oh crap' travel at the end - but 55mm/2+ inches seems a lot.


Does seem like a lot of travel unused. What's your sag? Is your rear setup dialed? Do you ride off the back?

What was your sag with the x-soft?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I ordered up some firm springs for my Ribbon. $$ was pretty cheap so I figured it was worth the experimentation. I also got a stiffer spring for the shock. Time to play around.

I won't be surprised if I run softer at home [slow speed janky tech] and stiffer on the road where bashing into things at higher speeds is a reality.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> Thinking out loud here, but could this be because of the added mid-stroke support over air? I think some of us have become accustomed to our fork readily giving up travel over roots and and rocks at slow speeds. That's great for comfort, but not for speed. With an air-spring being more flat in the initial and mid-stroke, it moves through that stuff. The downside is that when speeds pick up, you're stuck in the rampy part of the stroke and it feels harsh. So, a coil may not move as much (distance-wise), but it should move appropriately (because the spring curve is linear). I would describe it as a "sporty" feel.


Could very well be. And I've been the first to say suspension is about control, not comfort. Small bump sensitivity comes from using the correct tires and tire pressure anyway, IMO. I generally won't touch my damper adjustments until my tire psi is dialed.

Pushed the fork again today very hard and fast and it kept me sticking to the ground perfectly - like a good fork should. It is a clear step up from the Pike it replaced.

Thanks for your support Noah/MRP !

And its good to hear servicing should not be an issue.

Something else I'd like to add. With most air springs, especially forks, I've used in the past, when things get really fast and wild and you are pushing your dampers to their limits they seem to get "uncontrolled". Like I alluded to in a prior post that sounds subjective, but for whatever reason the air spring seems to get unruly in its ability to damp properly deep in its travel. The end result is the wheel does not stick to the ground, you loose traction, and you loose control. Seems that with both the MRP coil fork and having coil on the rear end that loss of control does not happen, even when I do something silly.


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## EV07 (Aug 14, 2016)

My Ribbon Coil 27.5 is up for sale if anyone's interested.

2 and a half months old,in immaculate condition.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142805021542?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Hey, 
Just switched to the extra soft spring, I dont know what it is with me and taking apart forks, I seem to always make a meal of it. Anyway, 2 observations;

1) The extra soft spring is about 10mm longer then the other springs. Seems odd?
2) I have a 27.5 170mm fork, I saw that the travel adjust was at about 8mm, and meant to be at 5mm according to MRP, so I adjusted that, but I've measured my stanchion length and seems rather long, but not sure what it was before.Not sure why the pic is upside down, but its about 180mm + .


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## kamper11 (Feb 8, 2008)

Noah

seated sag - just for purposes of consistent measure - always ended up 22-24%. 

from 0-3 turns preload - sag never moved - i never tried past 3 turns. 

Riding - try to remain balance/centered in the bike - but - i do know i have my moments off the back - which i try to correct quickly.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

B Rabbit said:


> but I've measured my stanchion length and seems rather long, but not sure what it was before.Not sure why the pic is upside down, but its about 180mm + .


I thought on the MRP you should be measuring axle to crown. Not the stanchion. I could be wrong though.


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

I am not sure about the spring length, but the 27.5 Ribbon does not use all the stanchion length for the travel if I remember correctly.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Finally got a Ribbon Coil. Tried to buy one 8 weeks ago and the shop had just sold the last one...to my wife, for my birthday! Yeah, she's super rad. Mounted it and rode yesterday. I live in Grand Junction, did a lap down Free Lunch, Pucker Up, other trails. Hit a dozen+ drops in the 3-6+ft range, lots of chunk.
29er, 150mm, medium spring. I'm around 165lbs and pretty aggressive rider. Had one harsh bottom out on a G out that is alway harsh. This was with 0 ramp, 0 preload, 3 LSC. Dialed up some ramp, had another bottom on a harsh drop but very controlled and didn't feel it. 

Really, really impressive trail feel. Much more smooth and controlled in chunky stuff, very confidence inspiring for traction in loose corners. I just took it to 160, so gotta go ride.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

jselwyn said:


> Finally got a Ribbon Coil. Tried to buy one 8 weeks ago and the shop had just sold the last one...to my wife, for my birthday! Yeah, she's super rad. Mounted it and rode yesterday. I live in Grand Junction, did a lap down Free Lunch, Pucker Up, other trails. Hit a dozen+ drops in the 3-6+ft range, lots of chunk.
> 29er, 150mm, medium spring. I'm around 165lbs and pretty aggressive rider. Had one harsh bottom out on a G out that is alway harsh. This was with 0 ramp, 0 preload, 3 LSC. Dialed up some ramp, had another bottom on a harsh drop but very controlled and didn't feel it.
> 
> Really, really impressive trail feel. Much more smooth and controlled in chunky stuff, very confidence inspiring for traction in loose corners. I just took it to 160, so gotta go ride.


Don't be afraid to dial up the Ramp. Works like a charm.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

B Rabbit said:


> 1) The extra soft spring is about 10mm longer then the other springs. Seems odd?
> 2) I have a 27.5 170mm fork, I saw that the travel adjust was at about 8mm, and meant to be at 5mm according to MRP, so I adjusted that, but I've measured my stanchion length and seems rather long, but not sure what it was before.Not sure why the pic is upside down, but its about 180mm + .


Not sure about the spring length discrepancy, I'll look into that. But, the extra stanchion showing is not alarming. The 27.5" models do not bottom out on the crown. IIRC, there is 12-14mm additional stanchion showing.


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## polarbeard (May 13, 2014)

Could someone please give me instructions on how to change damper oil, cant find any instruction online , and there isn't any service shops in sweden, only youtube video about subject seems to be with some older modell of fork, cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

polarbeard said:


> Could someone please give me instructions on how to change damper oil, cant find any instruction online , and there isn't any service shops in sweden, only youtube video about subject seems to be with some older modell of fork, cheers


Contact our service department, they can assist. Just hit our general [email protected] e-mail address.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

What weight oil for a Ribbon Air lower leg service? I assume Rockshox brand oil is fine.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

I took my bike down some incredibly steep and and chunky trails yesterday. The Ribbon coil was flat-out amazing.

It was so composed and smooth on the boulders and roots that I had more confidence on that ride than ever. It kept me from eating dirt more than a few times.

Every ride I'm more impressed with it.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Curveball said:


> I took my bike down some incredibly steep and and chunky trails yesterday. The Ribbon coil was flat-out amazing.
> 
> It was so composed and smooth on the boulders and roots that I had more confidence on that ride than ever. It kept me from eating dirt more than a few times.
> 
> Every ride I'm more impressed with it.


After ~ 10 days of owning the fork, this mirrors my feelings.
Soft coil
160mm
6 turns preload
15ish ramp
3 or 4 LSC
weight 165-175 depending on pack

I get between 18-22% sag. I had some concern that the spring was too soft after a few hard bottom outs, but have since tuned the ramp control. Had a park day and bottomed once or twice on large features, neither hard or noticeable=perfect. Rest of steep, loose, rocky trails usually had 15-30mm left. I love how high the fork stays through chunky stuff and how much traction is found through chattery roots and braking bumps. It has increased my confidence without a doubt.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

trail-blazer said:


> What weight oil for a Ribbon Air lower leg service? I assume Rockshox brand oil is fine.


My last fork had an Avalanche insert and the guy at Avy recommended this for his cartridges, so I had some on hand anyways. It's what I've been using without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJVGKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RwffBb7JB0F24


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

@Noah

Is there a particular reason the fork isn’t designed so the spring can be “quick swapped” from the top? Seems like if the spring was marginally smaller in diameter this could be done. The only thing stopping it from happening now is the anti-rattle sleeve on the spring.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Noah & MRP crew: if I ordered a 27.5 Ribbon 160 Boost today with Colorado graphics, what's a realistic ETA to Kansas?

I'll be in Summit County in mid July and just debating whether to upgrade now, or later.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I have read alot of this thread but I need a couple questions answered as I am about to buy one off pinkbike buy/sell.

I need to know if this will be over damped for me @ 5"9 135. The air version.
Also it's going on my recluse that is angleset and offset bushed with a 64.5 ha. Will it have binding problem?

Is there any way to have mrp tune the damping side for my weight?

Thank you in advance.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ColinL said:


> Noah & MRP crew: if I ordered a 27.5 Ribbon 160 Boost today with Colorado graphics, what's a realistic ETA to Kansas?
> 
> I'll be in Summit County in mid July and just debating whether to upgrade now, or later.


I believe new orders are 5-6 weeks, so likely getting to you in early to mid-July.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I need to know if this will be over damped for me @ 5"9 135. The air version.
> Also it's going on my recluse that is angleset and offset bushed with a 64.5 ha. Will it have binding problem?
> 
> Is there any way to have mrp tune the damping side for my weight?


135lbs isn't crazy light, so that doesn't worry me. Yes, you will be very "open" on the settings most likely, but I don't believe you'll be unable to find what you're looking.

If you're trying to get greater than 20% sag, while seated, on flat ground, with a 64.5º headangle, AND have no compromises in mid-stroke support AND/OR bottom-out performance, then perhaps you'll have difficulties.

Re: binding, certainly won't be worse-off than any other fork. With that slack of a headangle you'd benefit from more frequent lower leg servicing to keep everything slick.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> @Noah
> 
> Is there a particular reason the fork isn't designed so the spring can be "quick swapped" from the top? Seems like if the spring was marginally smaller in diameter this could be done. The only thing stopping it from happening now is the anti-rattle sleeve on the spring.


Because we didn't design it to be a coil fork in the beginning and we use butted stanchions. We could have gone to straightwall stanchions and decreased the spring O.D. for the coil, but that would eliminate air-to-coil conversions and increase chassis weight.

It's a good excuse to service your lowers anyway (which so many neglect to do).


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> 135lbs isn't crazy light, so that doesn't worry me. Yes, you will be very "open" on the settings most likely, but I don't believe you'll be unable to find what you're looking.
> 
> If you're trying to get greater than 20% sag, while seated, on flat ground, with a 64.5º headangle, AND have no compromises in mid-stroke support AND/OR bottom-out performance, then perhaps you'll have difficulties.
> 
> Re: binding, certainly won't be worse-off than any other fork. With that slack of a headangle you'd benefit from more frequent lower leg servicing to keep everything slick.


Cool thanks I'll keep the lower leg servicing in mind.

I went ahead with the sale.

The guy reassured me it has new size bushings fresh seals and has been serviced.
He is a mechanic and works at a shop so I feel good about it.
I'm sure I will be back here with questions at some point after I receive the fork.

Do you plan on releasing lower offset models in the future like other manufactors are doing?

Thanks for responding.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Cool thanks I'll keep the lower leg servicing in mind.
> 
> I went ahead with the sale.
> 
> ...


Cheers! Welcome to the family!

Yes, we offer 42, 46, and 51mm offsets for the 27.5+/29" model, and either 39 or 44mm for the 27.5" model.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Cheers! Welcome to the family!
> 
> Yes, we offer 42, 46, and 51mm offsets for the 27.5+/29" model, and either 39 or 44mm for the 27.5" model.


I would be interested in the 39mm is the offset in the uppers or lowers and is it possible to buy them separate or would I have to buy a whole new fork?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> It's a good excuse to service your lowers anyway (which so many neglect to do).


I was just thinking more along the lines of testing. When I was trying to dial mine in with different spring rates I had the lowers off 5-6 times in a 2 week span. Well before a lower service was needed.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> I believe new orders are 5-6 weeks, so likely getting to you in early to mid-July.


I found some in stock at Dirt Merchant! :thumbsup:

..I'm glad folks like the Ribbon Coil and I love options. But air for me, for sure.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I would be interested in the 39mm is the offset in the uppers or lowers and is it possible to buy them separate or would I have to buy a whole new fork?


Total offset a combination of the offset in the crown and lowers (ie there is no 39 or 44mm offset 27.5+/29").

You don't have to replace everything, but swapping out the crown is pretty major. Contact our service department for pricing (use the [email protected] address).

I've had customers that wanted to swap wheelsize (lowers), offset, and spring type. In cases like that you are definitely better off buying a whole new fork.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok thanks Noah.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Update on my OG Ribbon Air. 

Did a lower leg service, still feels less way than plush. Tried every air pressure setup within reason. Too little air would sit really low in its travel, pressures that are “ideal” for my weight it doesn’t want to move without bouncing on it. Slick honey, 5wt oil,nothing has worked. 

Had some friends take it for a spin. Felt super notchy moving through its travel, not smooth at all. 

Sent a request for an RA# 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I searched the thread but didn't find an answer. Ribbon 27.5 - not the plus fork - lists a max tire of 27.5x2.6. Has anyone tried a Bontrager XR4 27.5x2.6?

Generally, I find Bonty to be average volume and right on published width. So it's probably a real 2.6, whereas Maxxis is nearly always smaller than published. Maxxis is more popular, but if someone is running a DHF 2.6 I wouldn't assume the XR4 will also fit. Current gen (new) SE4 probably would be the same.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ColinL said:


> I searched the thread but didn't find an answer. Ribbon 27.5 - not the plus fork - lists a max tire of 27.5x2.6. Has anyone tried a Bontrager XR4 27.5x2.6?
> 
> Generally, I find Bonty to be average volume and right on published width. So it's probably a real 2.6, whereas Maxxis is nearly always smaller than published. Maxxis is more popular, but if someone is running a DHF 2.6 I wouldn't assume the XR4 will also fit. Current gen (new) SE4 probably would be the same.


Any 2.6" should fit easily with plenty of room to spare. Manufacturers have to be pretty cautious about max tire size recommendations.

I've used DHR 2.6" for a few months, no problems.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

So quick update on spring length, I pulled the extra soft spring out to give it some more grease, whilst it was out i gave it a measure and also gave the hard, medium and soft springs a measure as a comparison. the H, M, S springs are all the same length (to the mil), whilst the extra soft was 10-11mm longer, I used the contact form on MRP's website to check and the response was that 'with springs there is some variability in length and we inspect them to make sure they are within tolerances'. Which sounds fair enough to me, but 10mm does seem like a fair bit of extra pre-load to be running. 

I'll hopefully get the XS spring out on the weekend and report back how it goes for a 170/77kgs rider (170mm 27.5).


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Good news on my offset change. It requires only a new set of uppers.
I'm going to give the ribbon a good run for the next month or two be for I commit more money into it though.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

All kinds of room front and rear with the xr4 2.4 and xr3 2.35. I like the (correctly) rounded tire profile on the 29mm IW Bonty rims also. Squared off tires are no bueno.









Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

So first ride on the extra soft spring 77kgs, 170mm on a Nomad 4. 

Front end feels way more plush compared to soft spring, i'm running no LSC and no Ramp, finally used all the travel! I need to do some more riding on it and whilst i do love that small bump on the XS spring, I think I might end up back at the soft spring as it rides higher and feels more supportive (but never harsh), I'll muck around with ramp, preload and LSC on the XS spring to see how it affects things before doing that.

As usual, MRP FTW!


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

Noah, will you put up a guide on how to perform a damper bleed? 
Also, I seem to recall the fork coming with some spare wipers, is that so or am I just imagining things? 
I ask because I can't find any and want to know if I lost them or never had them in the first place.

Thanks.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

wow, you are 77kg and did not bottom out a soft spring? makes me wonder what kind of terrain you are riding? must be XC type stuff? kind of makes me wonder if nomad 4 is a good bike for your riding style.

i am 72kgs (160lb) and i bottom out the medium spring regularly on small drops (5 ft) (with ramp control at 10/20, LSC 4/8, rebound 10/20). although i am a pretty aggressive rider, and race a fair bit. to me the spring chart is way off, says i am between a soft and medium, but i am definitely more between a medium and firm. i will try the firm spring soon, hopefully i wont lose out too much on small bump sensitivity.



B Rabbit said:


> So first ride on the extra soft spring 77kgs, 170mm on a Nomad 4.
> 
> Front end feels way more plush compared to soft spring, i'm running no LSC and no Ramp, finally used all the travel! I need to do some more riding on it and whilst i do love that small bump on the XS spring, I think I might end up back at the soft spring as it rides higher and feels more supportive (but never harsh), I'll muck around with ramp, preload and LSC on the XS spring to see how it affects things before doing that.
> 
> As usual, MRP FTW!


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

pedrosalas7 said:


> Noah, will you put up a guide on how to perform a damper bleed?
> Also, I seem to recall the fork coming with some spare wipers, is that so or am I just imagining things?
> I ask because I can't find any and want to know if I lost them or never had them in the first place.
> 
> Thanks.


pretty stoked on this fork so far. but, the lack of a manual for damper and lower service is very annoying.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I read the whole thread before buying and I noticed similar things amongst the owners of my previous fork, which was also highly adjustable like the Ribbon (Manitou Mattoc with IRT).

I descend aggressively and brake hard. A softly sprung fork will dive and blow through travel.

I am just getting started with my ribbon but I found that if I have the negative spring pressure greater than positive it dives under heavy braking and it bobs pedaling while standing. I am still experimenting with negative equal or slightly higher positive, but I definitely like it firmer than a lot of folks with air or coil. 

Don't get me wrong; I do sit in the saddle and ride over small roots and rocks. And on a 2-3+ hour ride, almost no one is in the attack position that whole time. But when I'm doing that, I'm not expecting my fork to make those little obstacles disappear. I'll take some chatter in exchange for my fork behaving the way I want when I'm going fast, standing.

I'm glad mrp tried to show examples of these varying setups in the owners guide, and with an air fork I can have it plush one day and firm the next. 

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

spin4spin said:


> wow, you are 77kg and did not bottom out a soft spring? makes me wonder what kind of terrain you are riding? must be XC type stuff? kind of makes me wonder if nomad 4 is a good bike for your riding style.
> 
> i am 72kgs (160lb) and i bottom out the medium spring regularly on small drops (5 ft) (with ramp control at 10/20, LSC 4/8, rebound 10/20). although i am a pretty aggressive rider, and race a fair bit. to me the spring chart is way off, says i am between a soft and medium, but i am definitely more between a medium and firm. i will try the firm spring soon, hopefully i wont lose out too much on small bump sensitivity.


spin4spin is 72kg your geared up riding weight


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pedrosalas7 said:


> Noah, will you put up a guide on how to perform a damper bleed?
> Also, I seem to recall the fork coming with some spare wipers, is that so or am I just imagining things?
> I ask because I can't find any and want to know if I lost them or never had them in the first place.
> 
> Thanks.


I agree it is something we need to get on top of. I will work with the service department on that.

No, we don't include extra wipers with the fork. Are you already due?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

spin4spin said:


> pretty stoked on this fork so far. but, the lack of a manual for damper and lower service is very annoying.


FWIW, the lower leg service is covered in several of our videos.

https://vimeo.com/mrpbike


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

spin4spin said:


> wow, you are 77kg and did not bottom out a soft spring? makes me wonder what kind of terrain you are riding? must be XC type stuff? kind of makes me wonder if nomad 4 is a good bike for your riding style.


What length fork are you running?

I do a bit of everything on the N4, it's my only bike. I race/ride XC, do shuttle days and when summer comes, lift days at Thredbo. Having said that, I have mates on 140-150 travel bikes that would smoke me down any trail, regardless if I was a DH bike, so yeah, I could definitely get away with a shorter travel bike for sure. 
I'm just a mid pack rider, not massively aggressive or sending massive gaps. 
Seems people are getting quiet varying results, I don't think I'm the only person not getting full travel on their chart suggested spring. Having said that, whilst I love the small bump of the XS spring, mid stroke support of the soft is appealing, and when lift days come back around I think it would be the better setup


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I agree it is something we need to get on top of. I will work with the service department on that.
> 
> No, we don't include extra wipers with the fork. Are you already due?


Yeah almost. they look fine on the outside, But I want to stay on top of it. I'll just order a set from the site, maybe it's an excuse for a new shirt or hat? haha

Thanks.


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

Hi, does anyone know how to bleed the rebound circuit on the ribbon coil? I have a deadspot at the beginning of the travel and after speaking with an ex bike mechanic friend, he said that the rebound needs a bleed. Any advice would be awesome.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

anythingmtb said:


> Hi, does anyone know how to bleed the rebound circuit on the ribbon coil? I have a deadspot at the beginning of the travel and after speaking with an ex bike mechanic friend, he said that the rebound needs a bleed. Any advice would be awesome.


Contact us for the information [email protected]

BTW, you don't bleed rebound and compression circuits independently. Is your deadspot noticeable on compression?


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## anythingmtb (Jan 17, 2018)

Hi Noah, it is most noticeable on compression. The first 10mm or so of travel has no damping at all. Then the rebound is particularly noisy (air in oil squelch noise) 
Have asked for the information through [email protected] but didn't get it. I was asked for my address, which I sent, then didn't hear anything back


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

anythingmtb said:


> Hi Noah, it is most noticeable on compression. The first 10mm or so of travel has no damping at all. Then the rebound is particularly noisy (air in oil squelch noise)
> Have asked for the information through [email protected] but didn't get it. I was asked for my address, which I sent, then didn't hear anything back


Sorry to hear that. I will make sure that information is to you today. Please send me message with your address (on here via PM or e-mail noah (at) mrpbike.com).


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

Just got the new 2019 Fox 36 Factory Grip2 on the front of my Ibis Ripmo. 

To alleviate any fears, it's not in the same league as the Ribbon Coil I had on my Ripley. 

The 36 is a very nice fork, as good as the Pikes I've had before, but man the Ribbon Coil is just so plush...


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok so I just got my ribbon air today . It is my understanding that no matter what you have the travel set at the stantions will still have 170mm showing ?

If so then what is the point of running less then 170mm.

Also the fork was owned by a lbs/mechanic he said brand new seals and resized bushings can someone elaborate on the bush issue?

One last thing for now the fork is making squish noises on compression a rebound is this normal?


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## ChampionSleeper (Mar 19, 2011)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> It is my understanding that no matter what you have the travel set at the stantions will still have 170mm showing ?
> 
> Also the fork was owned by a lbs/mechanic he said brand new seals and resized bushings can someone elaborate on the bush issue?
> 
> One last thing for now the fork is making squish noises on compression a rebound is this normal?


I don't think the 170mm stanchion is accurate. I've got a 140mm travel model and I get full compression. Typically a longer stroke also comes with a longer axle-to-crown measurement which increases the front end ride height. The point of running a shorter stroke fork is to keep the front end low or where it was designed to ride.

Sometimes bushings can be slightly too tight or slightly too loose for the stanchions when new. It sounds like your mechanic loosened up the bushing fit a little.

Squish noises are normal on this fork (i think mostly on rebound). You are hearing the oil pass thru the damper.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok thanks after measuring the exposed station it is 160 on the "short side" of the slanted crown. That seems right.
I have no prob with the squish sound was just making sure it's normal.

Now I just have to wait 2 long days for my mrp Chris king boost adapter so I can ride this ting.

Last thing for today I plan on putting thru it's paces before deciding on a offset change and maybe coil conversion.
To those that had air then coil version is it worth it?
And will the xsoft spring be dialed for me at 135-145lbs?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ok so I just got my ribbon air today . It is my understanding that no matter what you have the travel set at the stantions will still have 170mm showing ?
> 
> If so then what is the point of running less then 170mm.
> 
> ...


Incorrect. Axle-to-crown length changes with travel. 27.5" models have 10mm more visible stanchion vs. travel. For 27.5+/29" models, that number is 3mm.

The only "issue" with bushings is that we changed our sizing procedure last year. Our new method produces more consistent results. There is a fine line with bushings: too loose and the fork knocks and can bind, too tight and overall plushness suffers.

Re: noise. Well, our forks aren't silent. Oil flow through the damper does create noise on the compression and rebound stroke. Any problem would be easier diagnosed through performance, not sound.

Cheers!


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

I have a Ribbon Air at 150mm. I've have about 35 hours riding on it so I assume the seals and everything is bedded in now. I am struggling with setting it up. I weight around 176-178 geared up and have set the fork up according to the plush settings indicated on the chart (70+ve, 77-ve). Problem is it feels harsh and my hands get beaten up over roots. Small bump sensitively is also lacking.

I've tried to lower the pressure by 10psi but that didn't really improve things. I've noted Noah's comments of not to drop the pressure too low so I don't think going below 60psi is the right direction. I also feel there is stiction when standing up pedaling up gradients. It almost feels locked out sometimes.

My fork also makes a lot of psshht type noises when hitting roots or square edge rocks. Is that normal? I've only previously ridden Rockshox not had a fork this loud before so not sure if it's normal.

The fork is on a Pole Evolink 140.

I'd appreciate any suggestions.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

trail-blazer said:


> I have a Ribbon Air at 150mm. I've have about 35 hours riding on it so I assume the seals and everything is bedded in now. I am struggling with setting it up. I weight around 176-178 geared up and have set the fork up according to the plush settings indicated on the chart (70+ve, 77-ve). Problem is it feels harsh and my hands get beaten up over roots. Small bump sensitively is also lacking.
> 
> I've tried to lower the pressure by 10psi but that didn't really improve things. I've noted Noah's comments of not to drop the pressure too low so I don't think going below 60psi is the right direction. I also feel there is stiction when standing up pedaling up gradients. It almost feels locked out sometimes.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear that. Have to had the lowers off to make sure everything is well lubricated? Given the extreme geometry of the Pole, you would benefit from increasing the frequency of lower leg servicing. That bike is extremely long and slack, two factors that present a challenge small bump sensitivity and general setup. Does the performance change given the ride scenario? Like, does it feel good on steep trails and stiff on flat, traversing trails?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Does the Ribbon use the same process and tools as seen here?


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

Hey Noah - how linear is the coil Ribbon when absolutely no ramp up is used, I know it probably feels dead linear, but is that the actual case?


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## ShredlyMcShredface (May 31, 2017)

bigcrs said:


> Hey Noah - how linear is the coil Ribbon when absolutely no ramp up is used, I know it probably feels dead linear, but is that the actual case?


Felt pretty dead linear to me, which is exactly how I liked it. It can be set up very soft, and still not dive in the mid stroke due to the awesome damper.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Does the Ribbon use the same process and tools as seen here?


related question: what damper oil is recommended?

I didn't watch that whole video, but he just generically says 5w suspension oil at the onset and pours from a plain container. there's quite a lot of difference between say Silkolene RSF 5w and Maxima 5w.


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## trail-blazer (Mar 30, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry to hear that. Have to had the lowers off to make sure everything is well lubricated? Given the extreme geometry of the Pole, you would benefit from increasing the frequency of lower leg servicing. That bike is extremely long and slack, two factors that present a challenge small bump sensitivity and general setup. Does the performance change given the ride scenario? Like, does it feel good on steep trails and stiff on flat, traversing trails?


Thanks Noah. I sent you a PM


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ColinL said:


> related question: what damper oil is recommended?
> 
> I didn't watch that whole video, but he just generically says 5w suspension oil at the onset and pours from a plain container. there's quite a lot of difference between say Silkolene RSF 5w and Maxima 5w.


We say generic 5wt because we get asked all the time about specifics and while there are differences between brands/labels, we haven't found any that radically change performance. Also, different countries/regions have access to different oils, so we take that into consideration.

Suspension oils are kinda like beers, everyone has their fave. I've used WPL, Maxima, RSP, and our stock oil, Torco (we get it by the barrel, thus the plain container in the video). I'd be hard pressed to tell a major difference (in the damper, bath lubrication is another story). BTW, the Torco we use is "7", but I'm told it's actually a 5wt.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Does the Ribbon use the same process and tools as seen here?


Basically, that's a Loop, so there are subtle differences. General process is the same. Ribbons have a bleed port in the top cap however, so a simple bleed (vs. complete fluid swap) can be done a little easier.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

bigcrs said:


> Hey Noah - how linear is the coil Ribbon when absolutely no ramp up is used, I know it probably feels dead linear, but is that the actual case?


Depends on the travel. The longer travel models ramp harder due to the increased volume of air in the lowers. But generally, very linear.

Interestingly, that doesn't necessarily mean "plusher" in the sense some people use it. Basically, coil doesn't feel "flat" until halfway through the stroke like some air-springs feel to me. Setup appropriately, it actually rides higher and uses travel more appropriately/predictably.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Noah, do you have Coils at the demos, specifically Snowmass Demo Days? If so, how do you let people test different springs?


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Brig said:


> Update on my OG Ribbon Air.
> 
> Did a lower leg service, still feels less way than plush. Tried every air pressure setup within reason. Too little air would sit really low in its travel, pressures that are "ideal" for my weight it doesn't want to move without bouncing on it. Slick honey, 5wt oil,nothing has worked.
> 
> ...


A week later and I'm still waiting on a shipping label. Pretty bummed at this point.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Brig said:


> A week later and I'm still waiting on a shipping label. Pretty bummed at this point.


Sorry to hear that.

Since I don't have any e-mail comms with you, can you send me your info? noah (at) mrpbike.com

A new customer service person started on Monday, things may have gotten lost in the transition.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Penny said:


> Noah, do you have Coils at the demos, specifically Snowmass Demo Days? If so, how do you let people test different springs?


No, we have air forks at demos for that reason. I wish we could demo coil forks, but the setup time would create a traffic jam.

I should have my Pivot Trail 429 with a 140mm Ribbon Coil there if you want to give it a feel. And my Firebird with the Bartlett and Hazzard.


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

Just got it, thanks Noah.



NoahColorado said:


> Sorry to hear that.
> 
> Since I don't have any e-mail comms with you, can you send me your info? noah (at) mrpbike.com
> 
> A new customer service person started on Monday, things may have gotten lost in the transition.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Basically, that's a Loop, so there are subtle differences. General process is the same. Ribbons have a bleed port in the top cap however, so a simple bleed (vs. complete fluid swap) can be done a little easier.


would we still need the same tools to do it?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pedrosalas7 said:


> would we still need the same tools to do it?


To do the simple bleed? For that you wouldn't need any special tools, although the bleed cup gives you a big reservoir to work with and expedites things.

Re: tools used in the full Loop bleed on Youtube vs. what you need for a Ribbon, the top caps take different tools and the bleed cups differ (the one used for Stages and Ribbons is bigger).


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> To do the simple bleed? For that you wouldn't need any special tools, although the bleed cup gives you a big reservoir to work with and expedites things.
> 
> Re: tools used in the full Loop bleed on Youtube vs. what you need for a Ribbon, the top caps take different tools and the bleed cups differ (the one used for Stages and Ribbons is bigger).


I see.

Thanks!


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## xavierp (Jan 18, 2011)

Hi, 
I made a rookie mistake while changing the travel on my Ribbon Air. I filled with lubrication oil with the fork upside down, without being too careful, and I think I put some in the air shaft/damper assy. Rebound knob feels hard, and there is a huge suction noise, that's why I think it happened.

Is a good clean up the way to go? Or should I go a few step farther and have it fully serviced? I'm assuming if there is a little bit of oil left in the assemblies, it shouldn't be a big deal?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok I got my boost kit got my ribbon installed yesterday.
Feels amazing more plush then my diamond. But the diamond is due a service so not a fair comparison.

Anyway did some pretty big drops used all but 7mm of travel. Set it up as plush for a 140lbs +2psi to the neg chamber.

I have only one niggle at this time...when I pop wheelie or manual the fork tops out noticably. Not real loud but it's there.

Is it possible the rebound is to fast or did I overdo the neg psi little too much?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

Noah just wandering if the shock wiz works at all with the ribbon or stage. I have free use of one from my lbs and was curious. Didn’t know if it plays well with the ramp control 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Nope. Does not work with ramp control or other non fixed air chamber volume like Manitou irt.


Raleighguy29 said:


> Noah just wandering if the shock wiz works at all with the ribbon or stage. I have free use of one from my lbs and was curious. Didn't know if it plays well with the ramp control
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ok I got my boost kit got my ribbon installed yesterday.
> Feels amazing more plush then my diamond. But the diamond is due a service so not a fair comparison.
> 
> Anyway did some pretty big drops used all but 7mm of travel. Set it up as plush for a 140lbs +2psi to the neg chamber.
> ...


Added PSI in the negative chamber should reduce top out if anything.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

TheCanary said:


> Added PSI in the negative chamber should reduce top out if anything.


I've noticed this as well. First fork I've had that's done this, hoping it's solvable.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

geraldooka said:


> I've noticed this as well. First fork I've had that's done this, hoping it's solvable.


I had some top-out when I very first set up the fork. It was indeed that I didn't have enough negative pressure. I also noticed that rebound was way fast.

It is kind of a pain getting the air spring set up right because if you make any changes to the positive side you have to empty negative, then change positive, then refill negative. I am still changing the balance of my standing platform & resistance to brake dive compared to how much travel the fork uses, and it's 3 times as much work as a fork that doesn't have a separate negative chamber. Once I have it dialed, though, I don't plan to mess with again until I service the fork.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

There is no real reason to empty the neg spring. Just add air.
Filling the neg spring before the pos is not good for sure.

I don't have a Ribbon but I do have a rear shock with separate chambers and the way they work are the same.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ok I got my boost kit got my ribbon installed yesterday.
> Feels amazing more plush then my diamond. But the diamond is due a service so not a fair comparison.
> 
> Anyway did some pretty big drops used all but 7mm of travel. Set it up as plush for a 140lbs +2psi to the neg chamber.
> ...


Of course it's possible you set the rebound too fast. Anything is possible.

Overdoing the negative pressure would diminish the top out sensation, not exacerbate it. The negative spring slows the fork down as it returns to full extension.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Raleighguy29 said:


> Noah just wandering if the shock wiz works at all with the ribbon or stage. I have free use of one from my lbs and was curious. Didn't know if it plays well with the ramp control


No, the Shockwiz won't work at all with the Ribbon or Stage, or any fork that has Ramp Control.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ColinL said:


> I had some top-out when I very first set up the fork. It was indeed that I didn't have enough negative pressure. I also noticed that rebound was way fast.
> 
> It is kind of a pain getting the air spring set up right because if you make any changes to the positive side you have to empty negative, then change positive, then refill negative. I am still changing the balance of my standing platform & resistance to brake dive compared to how much travel the fork uses, and it's 3 times as much work as a fork that doesn't have a separate negative chamber. Once I have it dialed, though, I don't plan to mess with again until I service the fork.


You don't necessarily have to _completely_ dump the negative if you're careful and consistent. I usually to just dump enough that the pressure is well below the positive spring pressure. Like if I'm in the 90psi range, I bleed it down to 60psi. Then it's only a couple of pumps into the negative chamber at the end of the process.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

I recently got my Ribbon Coil (160mm) installed on my '18 Trance. Oh, my... the small bump compliance is simply night and day better than the Fox 34 I took off.

Medium spring, all stock setting currently, weigh around 190#(86.5kg) with gear.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SkaredShtles said:


> I recently got my Ribbon Coil (160mm) installed on my '18 Trance. Oh, my... the small bump compliance is simply night and day better than the Fox 34 I took off.


That's what I like to hear! Rip-on on your Ribb-on!


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Noah, any "trick" to getting the spring side to torque properly? I double checked the snap ring and it is snug and the lock nut on the spring base is snug. But when I try to set the TQ on the ramp control at the bottom of the fork it just keeps spinning. Not like it is stripped, but like the internals are turning along with the ramp. 

I have a small leak, it has ruined the brake pads and rotor, and I am assuming it is due to it not sealing well because it is not torqued to spec.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Noah, any "trick" to getting the spring side to torque properly? I double checked the snap ring and it is snug and the lock nut on the spring base is snug. But when I try to set the TQ on the ramp control at the bottom of the fork it just keeps spinning. Not like it is stripped, but like the internals are turning along with the ramp.
> 
> I have a small leak, it has ruined the brake pads and rotor, and I am assuming it is due to it not sealing well because it is not torqued to spec.


I don't have any tricks, but the service department might! Give them a ring 970-241-3518.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

After playing around with the settings, I found the sweet spot for my Ribbon. I never like to use full travel while trail riding. Always want to save the last few mm for those oh crap moments. Riding weight 160-165 lbs, pos air 62, neg 69, rebound 13, ramp 4, little to no comoression. I noticed too much neg air can diminish the performance as with too little. I like to tinker with things so all these settings makes me happy. It takes time to dial in the perfect feel, but when you do, it's pure bliss. All my suspension has lots of dials and settings so I'm use to that. I think most people are use to the simple stuff that has been out there for awhile and don't know what they're missing. Yeah, the simple stuff is easy but never performs as nice as nice as the ones you can fine tune like the Ribbon.

Have a Ribbon Coil also an that thing rocks at the bike park!


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## Masberg (Feb 24, 2018)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Noah, any "trick" to getting the spring side to torque properly? I double checked the snap ring and it is snug and the lock nut on the spring base is snug. But when I try to set the TQ on the ramp control at the bottom of the fork it just keeps spinning. Not like it is stripped, but like the internals are turning along with the ramp.
> 
> I have a small leak, it has ruined the brake pads and rotor, and I am assuming it is due to it not sealing well because it is not torqued to spec.


Please share your Solution because I had a similiar unsolved issue.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Of course it's possible you set the rebound too fast. Anything is possible.
> 
> Overdoing the negative pressure would diminish the top out sensation, not exacerbate it. The negative spring slows the fork down as it returns to full extension.


I set it up according to the chart I download from your website.

63psi pos 70psi neg +1 above the recommended.
13 clicks rebound.
So if the rebound was too fast it's on your chart.

I'm asking legit questions about sounds the fork is making.

I adjusted the rebound to crazy slow and it stopped the top out noise but that's not a realistic solution.

And not getting your bushes right is what I would call an "issue" I was just bringing it up to get an understanding. No need to get snarky.
I'll just call customer service from now on thank you.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> No need to get snarky.


Noah wasn't being snarky.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Noah is a cool guy. Always active on the forums and very helpful. How many other companies are as active as MRP on the forums? Not many. Trying calling Sram if you have an issue with a Rock Shox, they would tell you to go to your LBS and not deal directly with the customers. MRP answers my calls and emails immediately when I have questions.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

what do you guys weigh??

im running 84/85 psi on 130mm @ 75kg


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

Subscribing. Just got my Ribbon Air today for my Hightower. Can't wait to ride it today and really hope it does better for me than the Pike did.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

ScottieM8 said:


> Noah is a cool guy. Always active on the forums and very helpful. How many other companies are as active as MRP on the forums? Not many. Trying calling Sram if you have an issue with a Rock Shox, they would tell you to go to your LBS and not deal directly with the customers. MRP answers my calls and emails immediately when I have questions.


I agree. I understand that Kevin is frustrated, but Noah is just trying to help.

The Ribbon damper does make a lot of noise rebounding even when it's properly bled. People have talked about that here in this thread from the onset (posts about a year ago), as well as in the Stage thread which is several years older.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

means it's working. race cars are noisy too.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I set it up according to the chart I download from your website.
> 
> 63psi pos 70psi neg +1 above the recommended.
> 13 clicks rebound.
> ...


Sorry mate. I wasn't being snarky. You didn't say how you set your rebound, only asked if it was possible you set it too fast. So yeah, that was/is a possibility. 

It's kind of the same thing with the question you had about noise. You said "the fork is making squish noises on compression a rebound is this normal?" And yes, some noise is normal. I'm not being snarky, a lot of people genuinely don't know if the normal damping sounds are (for lack of a better term) normal. Since I can't hear your fork and you have no baseline for what a "normal" Ribbon sounds like, I'd suggest looking for a performance shortcoming that would be indicative of air in the damper versus trying to diagnose by sound.

Re: rebound. The Ribbon has a shimmed high-speed circuit (providing more flow at high shaft speeds), so I usually advise people to set their fork up so that under low-speed events it feels slightly slow.

In any case, you're welcome to call and talk to customer service. I try to be helpful on here, but I do recommend that folks who have specific or pressing questions just call or e-mail for faster service - I can't be on here all the time. Plus, via e-mail or over the phone there is an easier to follow dialogue. Cheers!


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

@Noah, would you say the Rebound curve is somewhat digressive then?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> @Noah, would you say the Rebound curve is somewhat digressive then?


Yes.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

vikb said:


> Noah wasn't being snarky.


True.

I detected no snark.

And I'm good at spotting it when I see it.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

Ok so I have a strange problem and a question. 

First the question. I got a 160mm Ribbon from someone and he put it down to 140mm. I'm showing 150mm in the stanchions though so I'm not really sure what's going on. Should only 140mm be showing? I read on the last page of this thread that Noah said only +3mm would be showing on a 29er fork and 10mm for a 27.5 fork. What's going on here?

Now the problem. I set up the fork with the suggested pos. and neg. from the chart on the website and it was so freaking good. First try. I mean night and day from the stock Pike RC that came on the bike. Now, because it's just so much better, I'm not sure if I got lucky with the settings or if it actually could be even better than what it was today. Should I keep fiddling or will I just screw things up for myself?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I can't answer the travel part.

But I've ridden a pike rc several times. Things could change from year to year, maybe, but the ones I've ridden were massively overdamped when the air spring was set up for my 180 pounds.

Maybe they wanted to be sure they had enough range for 250+ pound riders. I don't know. But it is really shitty.

So it's very possible your Ribbon is already a dramatic improvement. But I would still suggest that you write down your settings and keep experimenting. You could possibly improve further. Possibly a LOT, because your old fork was that bad.


sternomac said:


> Ok so I have a strange problem and a question.
> 
> First the question. I got a 160mm Ribbon from someone and he put it down to 140mm. I'm showing 150mm in the stanchions though so I'm not really sure what's going on. Should only 140mm be showing? I read on the last page of this thread that Noah said only +3mm would be showing on a 29er fork and 10mm for a 27.5 fork. What's going on here?
> 
> Now the problem. I set up the fork with the suggested pos. and neg. from the chart on the website and it was so freaking good. First try. I mean night and day from the stock Pike RC that came on the bike. Now, because it's just so much better, I'm not sure if I got lucky with the settings or if it actually could be even better than what it was today. Should I keep fiddling or will I just screw things up for myself?


Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok so I downloaded the owner's manual which has different psi for my weight.

I turned the rebound all the way closed then 13 clicks out.
Next I let all air out of neg and dropped POS from 63 to 54.
I then fill neg to 63.

When I pushed down on the fork all compression noise was gone. Top out sound was gone. Only a slight hiss from rebound otherwise known as normal.
I ended up with 12 click rebound.

Now the fork is virtually silent. Only a little rebound noise on the hardest fastest hits.

I don't know how or why psi would effect the damping but it did.

The fork is now the most supple I've ever ridden supportive when I need it. I am completely happy with it and see no need for coil conversion.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I am completely happy with it and see no need for coil conversion.


I said the same, until I rode a coil.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> The fork is now the most supple I've ever ridden supportive when I need it. I am completely happy with it and see no need for coil conversion.


Right on!

Regarding damping noise, the higher the spring rate the more the rebound damping has to work, thus more noise.

Regarding the differing air pressure settings in the owner's manual vs. pressure chart, the one on the website is more detailed and broken down by travel (less travel = more pressure). But in any case, our charts are just suggested starting points.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

sternomac said:


> Ok so I have a strange problem and a question.
> 
> First the question. I got a 160mm Ribbon from someone and he put it down to 140mm. I'm showing 150mm in the stanchions though so I'm not really sure what's going on. Should only 140mm be showing? I read on the last page of this thread that Noah said only +3mm would be showing on a 29er fork and 10mm for a 27.5 fork. What's going on here?
> 
> Now the problem. I set up the fork with the suggested pos. and neg. from the chart on the website and it was so freaking good. First try. I mean night and day from the stock Pike RC that came on the bike. Now, because it's just so much better, I'm not sure if I got lucky with the settings or if it actually could be even better than what it was today. Should I keep fiddling or will I just screw things up for myself?


Do you have a 27.5" or 29"? Are you measuring to the inside of the crown/stanchion interface or the outside (hint, the crown/stanchion interface is sloped). Are you measuring from the wiper seal lip or elsewhere?

I'd suggest measuring the travel indicator o-ring after a bottom-out and seeing what that distance is to be sure. Or just keep riding and forget about it. It can be hard to eyeball a few millimeters after all.

Regarding tuning, that's up to you! The process can be fun and enlightening or a can of worms - it depends on your interests and patience. Though our air-spring fill procedure is a little more involved than others', I think the overall tuning process is easier than messing with volume spacers which necessitate pressure changes, which drive damping changes, etc. That said, endless tweaking in an effort to eek out the last 1% of performance can be fatiguing. On a related note, part of the appeal of coil, at least for me, is that I'm never second guessing air pressures.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Masberg said:


> Please share your Solution because I had a similiar unsolved issue.


I spoke with Eric just now. He gave me a few things to check and try. I will report back.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> Do you have a 27.5" or 29"? Are you measuring to the inside of the crown/stanchion interface or the outside (hint, the crown/stanchion interface is sloped).


I think that was my problem right there. I didn't notice the slope.

Anyways, I don't yet have a digital pump so for now I'm going to leave it as is. When I get a digital one, I'll probably start fiddling.

All that said...I am super happy so far. Great product and it definitely lives up to the hype for me. If you ever did an air shock, I'd be all over that too but for now, the Topaz is doing great.

Goodbye Rockshox.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

I thought I'd share my experience with my Ribbon Coil.

TL;DR - I am very happy with this fork, but it wasn't love at first ride.

Where I'm coming from: It's a 160mm 29er fork, 46 offset, on a transition sentinel. The primary comparison fork is a 140mm Pike RCT3 27.5 on an Ibis Mojo3. I found the Pike to be decent, but my biggest complaint with it was that it felt unsteady in high speed rocky/rooty stuff. Also, the mid-stroke support wasn't great, but not terrible (once I got it set up on the firm side). I'm not a super rad rider. I like getting a little airtime, but I definitely don't do gap jumps or big drops (yet). I max out at about 3-4 ft drops. I have several rides and 100+ miles on my Ribbon coil, and taken it to some good places: Santa Cruz, Tahoe, Demo, and Downieville, for those familiar with Northern California.

I'm 145 lbs (150-155 with gear), which puts me between soft and X-soft on the MRP chart. I started out on the soft spring. First ride was quite harsh, and I didn't use as much travel as I would have expected. I like my fork a little on the firmer side, but this was downright spikey. LSC and ramp were fully open, and I played around with the rebound a bit during the ride, but couldn't get it feeling good. Though I did notice that when things were fast and chunky, despite the harshness, it was well composed (definitely a lot better than the Pike). My wrists were feeling really beat up after this first ride. I'll also note that I was running my tire pressure higher than usual, which may have contributed to the harshness. At this point, I wasn't too happy with the fork.

After that first ride, I swapped out the soft for the X-soft spring. When dropping the lowers, no oil came out, which surprised me. It wasn't completely bone dry in there, but certainly not enough oil to pool anywhere. After the swap, I ended up settling on 2-3 clicks of LSC, 2 turns pre-load and 5 clicks of ramp. With the X-soft (and oil in the lowers) it was feeling quite a bit better. The harshness was much improved. I wasn't blowing through travel, but it felt a little soft and wallowy for my tastes.

I did 3 more rides with this setup before deciding to give the soft spring another chance. I F-ed up the swap and ended up breaking the ramp bolt (but that's another story). Once I got that sorted out, installed the soft spring , with plenty of oil in the lowers, and a healthy dose of this grease (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DV9ZIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the dust wipers and bushings.

With the soft spring, I'm running no pre-load, LSC and ramp fully open, and Rebound at 14 clicks from closed. The fork feels brilliant! It's still not what I would call "plush," but the initial harshness/spikiness is totally gone. My wrists no longer feel beat-up and sore. A good amount of trail feedback is present, but blunted and not jarring. It's very composed in the fast chunk, and the faster and harder I push it, the better it feels. I've made some poor line choices, but slamming into decent sized square edges were handled very well. Not divey, even with no LSC.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Noah, any "trick" to getting the spring side to torque properly? I double checked the snap ring and it is snug and the lock nut on the spring base is snug. But when I try to set the TQ on the ramp control at the bottom of the fork it just keeps spinning. Not like it is stripped, but like the internals are turning along with the ramp.
> 
> I have a small leak, it has ruined the brake pads and rotor, and I am assuming it is due to it not sealing well because it is not torqued to spec.


Are you talking about torquing the foot nut on the spring side? I had a problem with torquing down the footnuts - 8 N/m is the recommended torque in the manual. I torqued mine to 8 N/m and it was too much. One of the foot nuts sheared in half, and kept spinning. Not sure if it was just a defective nut or not. I had this happen to me on an older generation Lyrik too. The footnut from that Lyric was very similar to the current Ribbon footnuts, very thin walled aluminum. Rockshox has since beefed up their foot nuts and now spec only 5 N/m for them on a Pike.

Comparing current Pike vs Ribbon footnuts the Ribbon's seem pretty fragile and I am now wondering if I can really trust them with the abuse I put the fork through. I had a friend whos new BOS fork sheared at the footnuts, causing his lowers to come off mid-air resulting in a pretty serious head injury.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

any update regarding a manual for damper and ramp control service procedure for the ribbon coil?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

spin4spin said:


> any update regarding a manual for damper and ramp control service procedure for the ribbon coil?


The damper service instructions are available by e-mail through our service department. We will work on a more polished version with clear pictures following Eurobike (which is now in 2 weeks, it's throwing my whole year off!). As for Ramp Control service, there isn't any required, but should it be necessary to disassemble it, you can san see how it goes together (and apart) in our "air-to-coil" conversion video/instructions.


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> The damper service instructions are available by e-mail through our service department. We will work on a more polished version with clear pictures following Eurobike (which is now in 2 weeks, it's throwing my whole year off!). As for Ramp Control service, there isn't any required, but should it be necessary to disassemble it, you can san see how it goes together (and apart) in our "air-to-coil" conversion video/instructions.


Regarding the damper service, one of the required tools is a valve wrench. What exactly is a valve wrench and where can I/we get one?


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## nibb (Feb 20, 2016)

*Ribbon Coil & Pole*

Rides like a charm on my Pole...


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

*Spam*

MRP Ribbon Coil 29er FS in classifieds.
Appreciate the support from MRP and everyone contributing to this thread. Thx.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

TheCanary said:


> MRP Ribbon Coil 29er FS in classifieds.
> Appreciate the support from MRP and everyone contributing to this thread. Thx.
> 
> View attachment 1205236


Your previous comments on this thread seemed to indicate you were pretty stoked on this fork. What happened?


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## TheCanary (May 26, 2014)

Sid Duffman said:


> Your previous comments on this thread seemed to indicate you were pretty stoked on this fork. What happened?


Yep, it's a great fork. Couldn't get the Ripmo as frame only so I'll be rocking the G2 Fox 36 for now. After being on the Ribbon I'll probably coil up the 36 at some point.
Just a gear junkie.


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## tims5377 (Oct 20, 2010)

I have a ribbon air 150mm. I have the positive pressure set to ~90psi and the negative to ~75. I think i need to increase the neg a bit, but that is besides the point...

When climbing, if I shift my weight back and unweight the front of the bike it feels like the fork is going to full extension and topping out hard. Its almost as if the first 10mm of travel is not being used. Any ideas on how to fix it? The fork is near new and hasn't been serviced.


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

tims5377 said:


> I have the positive pressure set to ~90psi and the negative to ~75..
> 
> When climbing, if I shift my weight back and unweight the front of the bike it feels like the fork is going to full extension and topping out hard..


Its the Negitive air not supporting the end of the travel. You have something like the image on the left.
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8122544/

MRP says not to run less then 95% of the positive pressure.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Your negative air pressure is too low. If your positive pressure is 90 your negative should be 90-100 depending on the thee and function you’re looking for.


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## tims5377 (Oct 20, 2010)

Good to know! I will play with it tonight and report back


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

tims5377 said:


> I have a ribbon air 150mm. I have the positive pressure set to ~90psi and the negative to ~75. I think i need to increase the neg a bit, but that is besides the point....


You need to increase the negative pressure A LOT. You should be at least equal, but most prefer 5-10 more PSI in the negative.

If you keep riding the fork like this you could do damage. You are stressing the top-out bumper. And I'm sure it feels awful.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I had the same problem. You can decrease POS a little the neg should be 5-10 psi more then positive.

Also play with your rebound setting. 2-3 clicks either direction of the recommended setting should find your sweet spot.

One other thing if using a cheap pump you can lose alot of air out of the negative when removing the hose.

I think that's what happened in my case I thought I had more in the neg then I really did.

I think an investment into a high quality digital pump is in my future.

Noah is the Hazzard still on schedule for a mid July release?
I am so impressed with the ribbon I want to go all in and put a Hazzard on my Recluse.


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## Penny (Jul 9, 2006)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> One other thing if using a cheap pump you can lose alot of air out of the negative when removing the hose.


You don't lose air when removing the pump. You lose air when attaching the pump; which is why it appears lower when you go to pump it back up. The hiss you hear is the air escaping from when you attached the pump. If you pump it up to 60 psi and remove the pump, you'll hear a hiss, but it is still at 60 psi.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Penny said:


> You don't lose air when removing the pump. You lose air when attaching the pump; which is why it appears lower when you go to pump it back up. The hiss you hear is the air escaping from when you attached the pump. If you pump it up to 60 psi and remove the pump, you'll hear a hiss, but it is still at 60 psi.


It seems to me that I lose differing amounts depending on how fast or slow I unscrew it.

But after a internet search reading several articles I will have to reluctantly agreed with you.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Noah is the Hazzard still on schedule for a mid July release?
> I am so impressed with the ribbon I want to go all in and put a Hazzard on my Recluse.


Good to hear!

Yes, we should be starting production of the Hazzards the week of 7/23. We will only be able to make the standard eyelet mounted models at first. The trunnion and bearing mount models will be in late August. Same goes for the progressive springs.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Good to hear!
> 
> Yes, we should be starting production of the Hazzards the week of 7/23. We will only be able to make the standard eyelet mounted models at first.


All sizes? I think I'm sold on it and will want a 210x55 for my Trail Pistola!

Any idea what spring rates will be offered in the straight rate springs?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> All sizes? I think I'm sold on it and will want a 210x55 for my Trail Pistola!
> 
> Any idea what spring rates will be offered in the straight rate springs?


AFAIK, all sizes.

For the SL springs 375, 400, 425, 450, 475, 500, 550, and 600 lbs. Standard steel in 50 lb. increments.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> AFAIK, all sizes.
> 
> For the SL springs 375, 400, 425, 450, 475, 500, 550, and 600 lbs. Standard steel in 50 lb. increments.


Awesome! One review I read mentioned there would only be a light, medium and progressive options. 3 weights seemed lacking. Glad that particular review was wrong!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Awesome! One review I read mentioned there would only be a light, medium and progressive options. 3 weights seemed lacking. Glad that particular review was wrong!


I think they meant light weight steel, regular weight steel and progressive steel.

That being said I think the Intense Recluse is progressive enough not to need the progressive coil.
So sl 375-400 is right for my 140lbs?


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I think they meant light weight steel, regular weight steel and progressive steel.
> 
> That being said I think the Intense Recluse is progressive enough not to need the progressive coil.
> So sl 375-400 is right for my 140lbs?


That makes way more sense.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Thought I'd throw a pic of mine with custom decals from stikrd.com.

Cables are a mess waiting on frame grommets before i cut them down.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Good to hear!
> 
> Yes, we should be starting production of the Hazzards the week of 7/23. We will only be able to make the standard eyelet mounted models at first. The trunnion and bearing mount models will be in late August. Same goes for the progressive springs.


i totally understand if not the time or place for it, but i assume damper will be IFP/Nitrogen/Monotube?


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## tims5377 (Oct 20, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> You need to increase the negative pressure A LOT. You should be at least equal, but most prefer 5-10 more PSI in the negative.
> 
> If you keep riding the fork like this you could do damage. You are stressing the top-out bumper. And I'm sure it feels awful.


Added a bunch of air. It feels WAY better now. Surprise, surprise...

Time to tinker!


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

Okay, I have a stupid question, but one I'm asking anyway for peace of mind. I had a fight with the star fangled nut (well, actually, my bike shop did) and when I tried to drill it out, I realized that I was just causing it to spin in the steerer. This occurred about 3/4 or 2/3 of the way down the steerer. I've gotten it out and there is a bit of a groove or score mark where it spun. I can feel it when I run something inside the steerer. It isn't deep but it is noticeable. Should I be concerned? And yes I know i'm an idiot. Thanks!


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## 772268 (Jun 8, 2014)

Just wanted to let people know regarding spring choice for the Ribbon coil :

After maybe 100 or so miles on the fork with the soft spring in, I decided to try the xtra-soft and NOW the fork is exactly as I wanted. I am 165 fully geared and with the soft spring I was only accessing 4 or so inches of my travel, and the sag was only at 23mm with the preload screw all the way backed out. I think that the spring chart for this fork is way off for most people. I might be inclined to go back to the soft spring for a park day, but outside of that, no way. The xtra-soft is perfect for my weight...and this includes a fair amount of med size jumps and also very rugged big root / rocky stuff up here in Washington State.

I think the spring rate chart should be modified. It is a night and day difference in how the fork performs if you go down one, or even two spring rates. But once I put the right spring in it became magic! Perfect fork now. I was 'ok' with the fork before, but NOW I am very very happy with it. If I'd known, I'd have put the xtra soft spring in to begin with... I'm running the fork on my Evil Wreckoning.


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

Shkrool, How much travel? Pretty sure Noah said that makes a difference as to which spring will be better as its not just weight, but weight and travel.

I finally got my Ribbon air 130 after long wait for backorder. Loving it so far was worth the wait.

Kevin Van Deventer, Might have to order some of those custom stickers. The stock orange is not matching my black and hope purple bike. MRP makes a purple sticker but I don't think that would match the anodized purple either. Prob just need stealth black/dark grey sticker. I don't see MRP Stickers listed in their forks selection how did you get them?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Skrool said:


> Just wanted to let people know regarding spring choice for the Ribbon coil :
> 
> After maybe 100 or so miles on the fork with the soft spring in, I decided to try the xtra-soft and NOW the fork is exactly as I wanted. I am 165 fully geared and with the soft spring I was only accessing 4 or so inches of my travel, and the sag was only at 23mm with the preload screw all the way backed out. I think that the spring chart for this fork is way off for most people. I might be inclined to go back to the soft spring for a park day, but outside of that, no way. The xtra-soft is perfect for my weight...and this includes a fair amount of med size jumps and also very rugged big root / rocky stuff up here in Washington State.
> 
> I think the spring rate chart should be modified. It is a night and day difference in how the fork performs if you go down one, or even two spring rates. But once I put the right spring in it became magic! Perfect fork now. I was 'ok' with the fork before, but NOW I am very very happy with it. If I'd known, I'd have put the xtra soft spring in to begin with... I'm running the fork on my Evil Wreckoning.


The problem is that the correct spring will vary from bike to bike and riding style/type for the same person as the geo of the bike affects how the fork is loaded. There is no one size fits all answer that can be perfect for everyone every time.

You ended up one spring weight away from the recommendation and agreed that for some use you might prefer the stiffer spring the chart recommends.

If MRP changed the chart to suit you then it wouldn't work for someone else. There is no way for such a simplistic mechanism nail down the perfect spring for everyone.

FWIW - I never run the recommended air pressure suggested by my fork manufacturers. I'm usually running a lot less pressure then they recommend for my weight.


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## 772268 (Jun 8, 2014)

Mine's a 29er 160mm travel. Even now, I only rarely seem to use all 160mm. But it's a night and day difference now with the light spring installed. I mean, to emphasize that the fact that the fork is entirely difference now than it was with the spring that the chart stated was the right one to use. A drastic difference for me. I thought it was important to share this.


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## 772268 (Jun 8, 2014)

vikb said:


> The problem is that the correct spring will vary from bike to bike and riding style/type for the same person as the geo of the bike affects how the fork is loaded. There is no one size fits all answer that can be perfect for everyone every time.
> 
> You ended up one spring weight away from the recommendation and agreed that for some use you might prefer the stiffer spring the chart recommends.
> 
> ...


Yes, I get what you're saying. However, there should be some kind of note with the chart that states what you're saying. Not everyone on earth is into the internet or forums, and such people tend to rely on and trust whatever information arrives with their product. Had I not experimented by buying the xtra light spring, I never have discovered what I now am very much finding to be utterly superior in all respects. I already know that there MUST be many other people out there who have no clue how good this fork can be IF only they would go to a lighter spring rate...or [or even two--on a 160mm fork]. If it were only a mild difference I'd have not taken the time or effort to leave input on this, but it was a DRASTIC difference for the better. I don't really see why you made this post...seem like 'filler' to me.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

vikb said:


> The problem is that the correct spring will vary from bike to bike and riding style/type for the same person as the geo of the bike affects how the fork is loaded. There is no one size fits all answer that can be perfect for everyone every time.


And this is exactly what led to the prevalence of air spring forks and shocks.

Well, that, and air is lighter and you can always sell lightness as a feature.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Skrool said:


> Mine's a 29er 160mm travel. Even now, I only rarely seem to use all 160mm. But it's a night and day difference now with the light spring installed. I mean, to emphasize that the fact that the fork is entirely difference now than it was with the spring that the chart stated was the right one to use. A drastic difference for me. I thought it was important to share this.


To the previous poster's point, though - I'm 190 geared up (middle of the 160mm medium spring range), and I use up all but a smidgen of full travel with no preload and no ramp. Love the small bump sensitivity as well as the mid-stroke support on big stuff.

I will probably try the soft spring for kicks, but at this point, the chart seems to be right on for myself and riding conditions/style around here.

To your point, though - it wouldn't hurt to put a note on the chart that basically says "just a guide" - although that's how I take charts like that anyways...


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

pepsican said:


> Shkrool, How much travel? Pretty sure Noah said that makes a difference as to which spring will be better as its not just weight, but weight and travel.
> 
> I finally got my Ribbon air 130 after long wait for backorder. Loving it so far was worth the wait.
> 
> Kevin Van Deventer, Might have to order some of those custom stickers. The stock orange is not matching my black and hope purple bike. MRP makes a purple sticker but I don't think that would match the anodized purple either. Prob just need stealth black/dark grey sticker. I don't see MRP Stickers listed in their forks selection how did you get them?


Just emailed them through the contact info on their site. Really fast and friendly service.
He made multiple versions for me to pick from.

Kind of warning ..not cheap I think mine were 47$ including shipping.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

pianoman84d said:


> Okay, I have a stupid question, but one I'm asking anyway for peace of mind. I had a fight with the star fangled nut (well, actually, my bike shop did) and when I tried to drill it out, I realized that I was just causing it to spin in the steerer. This occurred about 3/4 or 2/3 of the way down the steerer. I've gotten it out and there is a bit of a groove or score mark where it spun. I can feel it when I run something inside the steerer. It isn't deep but it is noticeable. Should I be concerned? And yes I know i'm an idiot. Thanks!


For liability reasons I can't say "it'll be fine, don't worry." But, if YOU are concerned about it, we can swap your steerer for a drastically reduced price given the situation.


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> For liability reasons I can't say "it'll be fine, don't worry." But, if YOU are concerned about it, we can swap your steerer for a drastically reduced price given the situation.


Damn lawyers . Thanks Noah, I'm gonna look again to see if i'm concerned


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Skrool said:


> Just wanted to let people know regarding spring choice for the Ribbon coil :
> 
> After maybe 100 or so miles on the fork with the soft spring in, I decided to try the xtra-soft and NOW the fork is exactly as I wanted. I am 165 fully geared and with the soft spring I was only accessing 4 or so inches of my travel, and the sag was only at 23mm with the preload screw all the way backed out. I think that the spring chart for this fork is way off for most people. I might be inclined to go back to the soft spring for a park day, but outside of that, no way. The xtra-soft is perfect for my weight...and this includes a fair amount of med size jumps and also very rugged big root / rocky stuff up here in Washington State.
> 
> I think the spring rate chart should be modified. It is a night and day difference in how the fork performs if you go down one, or even two spring rates. But once I put the right spring in it became magic! Perfect fork now. I was 'ok' with the fork before, but NOW I am very very happy with it. If I'd known, I'd have put the xtra soft spring in to begin with... I'm running the fork on my Evil Wreckoning.


Probably running a 160mm travel? I'm on a 150mm and when I was riding at 170# on the medium/green spring I thought I was borderline too soft. Until I really bumped up the Ramp I was blowing through travel very easily, and I run a fair amount of LSC. Our trails are super chunky, but no big hit park riding. Admittedly the fork does not feel super plush off the top (and maybe it would if I dropped a spring weight) but it performs extremely well otherwise.

So, a lot of this may be different strokes for different folks.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Skrool said:


> Mine's a 29er 160mm travel. Even now, I only rarely seem to use all 160mm. But it's a night and day difference now with the light spring installed. I mean, to emphasize that the fact that the fork is entirely difference now than it was with the spring that the chart stated was the right one to use. A drastic difference for me. I thought it was important to share this.


Thank you for sharing your experience!

We have to provide some kinda of guide and what we have currently seems to pretty well represent our users. Anecdotally, we have as nearly as many people saying they need firmer springs than the chart recommends. I'm 168 lbs. today and about to try a firm spring in my 29" 140mm.


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## rockthreegozy (Jul 1, 2018)

Hi guys, Ribbon air owner 29/150 as of last week. Can anyone comment on rebound speed range? My forks seem a lot slower than my previous Pikes so wondering if there is a problem?

Initially on 60+/65- but dropped that to 50/50 as the small bump was poor, but still not happy at the moment. I've raised it with the bike manufacturer (who are chatting to MRP I believe) but just thought you could advise..


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

rockthreegozy said:


> Hi guys, Ribbon air owner 29/150 as of last week. Can anyone comment on rebound speed range? My forks seem a lot slower than my previous Pikes so wondering if there is a problem?
> 
> Initially on 60+/65- but dropped that to 50/50 as the small bump was poor, but still not happy at the moment. I've raised it with the bike manufacturer (who are chatting to MRP I believe) but just thought you could advise..


A lot of people make the mistake of lowering air pressure to help small bump. But all you are really doing is causing the the fork to ride even deeper in the stroke and make small bump compliance worse.

Start from the MRP air chart for your weight. Then go UP 5psi per test ride/loop until the small bump gets better.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

I started with the chart but wasn’t ever using full travel so I went down. Still slowly working down. 

So going up isn’t always the answer. Lots of variables to account for. 

Just my .02


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

True. But the poster above went to a new lower positive pressure and equal negative.

That's not going to improve small bump compliance. It's important to have the right differential between them. Something like 55 positive / 64 negative would be better for him to try.


sternomac said:


> I started with the chart but wasn't ever using full travel so I went down. Still slowly working down.
> 
> So going up isn't always the answer. Lots of variables to account for.
> 
> Just my .02


Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

I agree. I would do that first before raising both.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

sternomac said:


> I started with the chart but wasn't ever using full travel so I went down. Still slowly working down.
> 
> So going up isn't always the answer. Lots of variables to account for.
> 
> Just my .02


Another misconception: "if I am not using full travel I should lower my pressures"

But why? If small bump is great, mid stroke is great, and you are not bottoming out......you are officially dialed in. Congrats!

If you aren't using full travel you simply haven't hit something big/hard enough yet.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> Another misconception: "if I am not using full travel I should lower my pressures"
> 
> But why? If small bump is great, mid stroke is great, and you are not bottoming out......you are officially dialed in. Congrats!
> 
> If you aren't using full travel you simply haven't hit something big/hard enough yet.


That may be the case and if so I can go back up if I need to. But I've hit most of the biggest stuff on my locals and im leaving a third of travel on the table with no ramp clicks or lsc clicks.

No reason not to go down and see what happens.


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

FYI for all experiencing small bump issues, double check your PSST valves. I sat and held mine open for a couple of minutes and some air bubbles out through oil. It made a big big difference to me in small bump compliance. Don’t just push those buttons and let go, leave them open for a bit and see. In case it helps others.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rockthreegozy said:


> Hi guys, Ribbon air owner 29/150 as of last week. Can anyone comment on rebound speed range? My forks seem a lot slower than my previous Pikes so wondering if there is a problem?
> 
> Initially on 60+/65- but dropped that to 50/50 as the small bump was poor, but still not happy at the moment. I've raised it with the bike manufacturer (who are chatting to MRP I believe) but just thought you could advise..


Howdy,

With regards to rebound speed, where are you at in the range?

As for tuning, a 10 psi swing is pretty big for a first step. As well, I would recommend you keep the 5-10 psi differential between positive and negative pressures - equal pressure is not the ticket if small bump compliance is your aim (very aggressive riders who have a strong forward weight bias or those with a history of gated racing/bmx are about the only ones who like equal pressures in my experience).

If you let us know your weight, fork travel, bike, etc. we can help you with tuning.

You can always call us or write us for tuning advice, that's a bit quicker than going through a middleman.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

running 84/84 psi and small bump is excellent. i weigh 76kg.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

Alright so I'm having something weird happen the last two rides. 

When the ride starts the fork feels super plush and the small bump sensitivity is great. About an hour or so later, everything stiffens up. The last couple downhills are torture on my hands. The first hour is fine though. 

Before I start the ride I flipped the bike over to spread the oil around (I saw that tip here). I did it again when I felt things stiffen up today and it may have helped momentarily. I also tried the Psst valves. Didn't hear or feel anything. 

Any thoughts?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

sternomac said:


> Any thoughts?


Drop the lowers and check/add lube?


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

vikb said:


> Drop the lowers and check/add lube?


Would that be the part of this video that's from about 3:15 and on?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I would suspect damper foaming. Which means the damper needs to be bled.

I haven't seen a video for doing that with the Ribbon but I saw comments that it's much easier than depicted in the MRP video for the older forks (like the Loop).


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

ColinL said:


> I would suspect damper foaming. Which means the damper needs to be bled.
> 
> I haven't seen a video for doing that with the Ribbon but I saw comments that it's much easier than depicted in the MRP video for the older forks (like the Loop).


Post #1049, Noah says you get get damper service instructions by sending an email to MRP.

Hopefully they'll soon put out a video for the process.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

PM me, ill send you the pdf instructions i have.


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## jhorton3 (Oct 26, 2010)

Has anyone bled the damper without the special tool(s)? Mine needs a bleed but they are backordered a couple weeks on the bleed tool and valve wrench


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

It is normal with the ribbon air to hear a clunk (like a top out). When riding uphill and pulling up on the bars?

Any thoughts?


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

phazedalx said:


> It is normal with the ribbon air to hear a clunk (like a top out). When riding uphill and pulling up on the bars?
> 
> Any thoughts?


Low negative air?

I haven't heard this on my Ribbon, so I'd say it's not normal... I run slightly less than 10pps more in the negative than positive.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

yrrekr said:


> Low negative air?
> 
> I haven't heard this on my Ribbon, so I'd say it's not normal... I run slightly less than 10pps more in the negative than positive.


Hm Im running 64+ 70-

heres a video of the noise


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

phazedalx said:


> Hm Im running 64+ 70-
> 
> heres a video of the noise


Hmmm. Mine does not make that noise, so something's definitely up. You're sure the negative spring is holding it's air, right? Is rebound dampening working correctly?

The air-spring looks pretty easy to get at, based on MRP's vids. Might be something that's easy to see if you get it apart...


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## springs (May 20, 2017)

phazedalx said:


> Hm Im running 64+ 70-
> 
> heres a video of the noise


Definitely doesn't sound normal. How new are they and do they need a service?


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

robmac48 said:


> Definitely doesn't sound normal. How new are they and do they need a service?


Brand new. Only 1 ride

Leaving on a 3 week trip tomorrow and wondering if I should take the bike now...

I've also tried draining both chambers and re pressurizing. No dice.

Ill rip it apart tomorrow and have a look.

I can also try to call them from the road on Monday.



yrrekr said:


> Is rebound dampening working correctly?


How do I test this?


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Brand new. Only 1 ride
> 
> How do I test this?


close the rebound completely and check the rebpund speed after compressing the fork.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

phazedalx said:


> How do I test this? {rebound dampening}


Testing rebound dampeing: Turn the red knob on the bottom of the lowers in the clockwise all the way. Then do the same action you show in your vid. The fork should spring back very slowly, with no "honking" or other add noise, beyond the faint squishing sound of oil moving. If the fork doesn't return way obviously slowly, or there's "honking" or other odd sound, then there's probably air in the dampener, which might allow the fork to spring back too fast, causing the 'knocking' sound upon rebound.

If dampening is working, begin adjusting it back from full towards open, counter clockwise. Find the point where, when you compress the fork and release it, literally letting go of the bars to let the bars spring back, the wheel just begins to jump up off the ground a teeny bit (Pogo-sticking). Once you're at this point, go back clockwise 'til it just stops jumping. Because this is a good starting point for rebound dampening adjustment, the hope is that it also represses/eliminates the knocking sound, simply cuz the knocking was caused by a lack of dampening. If it's still knocking when you have rebound approximately adjusted correctly, then it suggests the problem is on the air-spring side.

When it does the knocking, and you attach the pump back up to the negative, does it still read fairly close to the pressure you set? It'll loose a little when you attach the pump, so we'd be looking for a larger change to suggest the negative is loosing air.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

yrrekr said:


> Hmmm. Mine does not make that noise, so something's definitely up. You're sure the negative spring is holding it's air, right? Is rebound dampening working correctly?
> 
> The air-spring looks pretty easy to get at, based on MRP's vids. Might be something that's easy to see if you get it apart...





yrrekr said:


> Testing rebound dampeing: Turn the red knob on the bottom of the lowers in the clockwise all the way. Then do the same action you show in your vid. The fork should spring back very slowly, with no "honking" or other add noise, beyond the faint squishing sound of oil moving. If the fork doesn't return way obviously slowly, or there's "honking" or other odd sound, then there's probably air in the dampener, which might allow the fork to spring back too fast, causing the 'knocking' sound upon rebound.
> 
> If dampening is working, begin adjusting it back from full towards open, counter clockwise. Find the point where, when you compress the fork and release it, literally letting go of the bars to let the bars spring back, the wheel just begins to jump up off the ground a teeny bit (Pogo-sticking). Once you're at this point, go back clockwise 'til it just stops jumping. Because this is a good starting point for rebound dampening adjustment, the hope is that it also represses/eliminates the knocking sound, simply cuz the knocking was caused by a lack of dampening. If it's still knocking when you have rebound approximately adjusted correctly, then it suggests the problem is on the air-spring side.
> 
> When it does the knocking, and you attach the pump back up to the negative, does it still read fairly close to the pressure you set? It'll loose a little when you attach the pump, so we'd be looking for a larger change to suggest the negative is loosing air.


Rebound dampening seems to be working fine. I can still generate that top out thunk at all points of testing the rebound. Its like I can push down on the fork a few millimeters and it wont rebound up at all on its own and when I pull up is when I hear the thunk.

I also checked the negative pressure and that doesnt seem to be losing any air. My shock takes 10 psi to fill from the negative side and it read 60 (i filled it to 70). Confirmed this with some tests too. Positive also is holding air fine.

Going to get some fork oil soon so I can take it apart. Hopefully that does something.

Also I don't think I noticed this when I got the bike, but I only road it around the street outside my house for a sec. Then I went from 5k feet to 11k feet to ride and on that climb to 12.5k feet is when I first noticed it.

Thanks for helping with this.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Good advice from yrrekr above. I prefer fork and shock rebound speed to be fairly closely matched, rear slightly slower, but both fast enough that you can jump down on the pedals and spring off the ground with both wheels. This gives most any bike that "poppy" or playful feel that makes it, in my opinion, much more fun to ride. You should be able to ride along at a moderate speed, maybe 10 mph, jump on the pedals and spring enough to clear a manhole cover without even doing a traditional bunny hop lift / jump / scoop.

Last thing to try is to empty both air chambers and pull up on the fork. No weight on the bars, fill positive then negative. If you still have the clunk it's unfortunately the damper. 

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

yrrekr said:


> Hmmm. Mine does not make that noise, so something's definitely up. You're sure the negative spring is holding it's air, right? Is rebound dampening working correctly?
> 
> The air-spring looks pretty easy to get at, based on MRP's vids. Might be something that's easy to see if you get it apart...





ColinL said:


> Good advice from yrrekr above. I prefer fork and shock rebound speed to be fairly closely matched, rear slightly slower, but both fast enough that you can jump down on the pedals and spring off the ground with both wheels. This gives most any bike that "poppy" or playful feel that makes it, in my opinion, much more fun to ride. You should be able to ride along at a moderate speed, maybe 10 mph, jump on the pedals and spring enough to clear a manhole cover without even doing a traditional bunny hop lift / jump / scoop.
> 
> Last thing to try is to empty both air chambers and pull up on the fork. No weight on the bars, fill positive then negative. If you still have the clunk it's unfortunately the damper.
> 
> Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


This actually seemed to make it a bit better, but its still there. I also pulled the lowers/airspring and put new oil in (everything inside was oily but almost none dripped out). Oh well.

I guess well see as Ill be on this thing for the next few weeks. I'll call MRP and see what they say. I'll also be driving right past SuspensionWerx in N Vancouver, maybe they can help me out.

It doesnt seem like a thing that super negatively affect performance. But a fork of this quality should be perfect.

Thanks for all your help, im hitting the road soon and hopefully will get it all sorted out.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

Mine does this too when i run more negative pressure than positive. I just run +1 psi in negative and write off those few extra mms. Its been in for service and still does it. Just the design i think. Really powerful negative spring. Its plenty supple and works perfectly on the trail.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Just got the Ribbon Air and merely by fondling it and setting pressures for some random light rider.... it already feels better than the Pike. 

I'm seeing something good happening here. :thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

phazedalx said:


> Thanks for all your help, im hitting the road soon and hopefully will get it all sorted out.


Hey man, sorry, I've been at Eurobike. Did we get your problem resolved?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

just changing travel on my new Ribbon coil and I didnt see a bottom out bumper in the spring side on the lower leg, is that right?


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## kingspa09 (Dec 12, 2012)

Just got my Ribbon Coil 160 for my capra 29 with elevensix. I was hoping to have this sooner and get some rides in before a trip to Squamish/Whistler in a week, But don’t really have much in the way of time to hit the trails before. Does anyone have experience with the coil for park use? I’m 190 pounds with gear and just about smack dab in the middle for the Medium (green) spring recommendation. Wonder if I should give the firm spring a go or just head up there with what it has now. Rather not deal with changing springs while camping. Cheers!


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

kingspa09 said:


> Just got my Ribbon Coil 160 for my capra 29 with elevensix. I was hoping to have this sooner and get some rides in before a trip to Squamish/Whistler in a week, But don't really have much in the way of time to hit the trails before. Does anyone have experience with the coil for park use? I'm 190 pounds with gear and just about smack dab in the middle for the Medium (green) spring recommendation. Wonder if I should give the firm spring a go or just head up there with what it has now. Rather not deal with changing springs while camping. Cheers!


Smash it into a few curbs or sets of stairs and see what happens. Don't forget you can play around with the ramp control to get bottom out resistance if you are happy with the top part of the stroke.

I'm ~190lbs + gear and riding the medium spring on a 150mm 29er fork. I run with LC wide open and a maybe 1/3rd closed on the RC.


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## JCP (Oct 3, 2008)

It seems like from the few setups I have read so far people are using pressures significantly lower than provided by MRP. Yes, I get that this is only a guide, everybody rides differently and other factors such as head tube angle can affect the setup. Just wanted to get some ideas on what people are running. For those who are running lower pressures, are you basing it on ride feel or sag? Thanks in advance.


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

JCP said:


> It seems like from the few setups I have read so far people are using pressures significantly lower than provided by MRP. Yes, I get that this is only a guide, everybody rides differently and other factors such as head tube angle can affect the setup. Just wanted to get some ideas on what people are running. For those who are running lower pressures, are you basing it on ride feel or sag? Thanks in advance.


I run pretty close to the exact recommended pressure from the air spring chart and have been happy. 68 pos 70 neg and I'm 170 lbs running at 160mm. Ramp control 6 clicks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

*An Engineer builds a bike.... (140mm Ribbon Air)*

An Engineer builds a bike....

- Dude receives new fork with recommended manufacturer setup sheet.
- Dude breaks out Excel to find out what the manufacturer has been smoking.
- Dude makes new updated chart. (Neg pressure = Pos +10%)
- Dude uses that and is happy for now.
- :thumbsup:


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## JCP (Oct 3, 2008)

Oh my goodness...


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

*ribbon coil owners, post your settings!*

Ribbon coil owners, lets post up our weight, travel setting, and which spring you're running and preload. Just took my first ride on my new one set at 163 mm, I weigh about 220 geared up so not exactly halfway between med and firm, more like on the low side of the firm. I left the medium on for first ride, with 9 turns of preload (but no preload spacer) and ramp just a few turns from max.
fork felt unbelievable on a fast rock garden with smallish rocks. However, on a steep rough chute, fork felt a bit divey in the midstrtoke, almost sketchy. still didnt bottom out (bottoming out is not my benchmark for good suspension setup anyway) due to max ramp control. Im wondering if id be better off on the firm with no preload. Just thought id see what others were running befor I switched.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

marti163 said:


> I run pretty close to the exact recommended pressure from the air spring chart and have been happy. 68 pos 70 neg and I'm 170 lbs running at 160mm. Ramp control 6 clicks.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


im running 84 psi and i weigh 165 lol. on a 140mm fork.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

C-H said:


> An Engineer builds a bike....
> 
> - Dude receives new fork with recommended manufacturer setup sheet.
> - Dude breaks out Excel to find out what the manufacturer has been smoking.
> ...


thats alott more. fork wont even come close to full extension if i run that.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

FactoryMatt said:


> thats alott more. fork wont even come close to full extension if i run that.


Mine just started so suck into the travel at that point. Maybe lost 2-3mm at most.
I've not been off-road yet with it but I played around with the knobs and got a good feel what they do and how much. The ramp control is promising. It's a very distinct difference between no ramp and full ramp. The rebound damping has a huge range and the compression damping is also very noticeable.
I'm a bigger dude at 240-245 lbs as of now and clearly this fork doesn't need to be used at the edge of any settings. There is still a margin.
Also, with 10% more pressure there is not even a hint of the much hated 'stichion'. Smooth as butter and who really cares about 2mm anyway?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

dwyooaj said:


> Ribbon coil owners, lets post up our weight, travel setting, and which spring you're running and preload. Just took my first ride on my new one set at 163 mm, I weigh about 220 geared up so not exactly halfway between med and firm, more like on the low side of the firm. I left the medium on for first ride, with 9 turns of preload (but no preload spacer) and ramp just a few turns from max.
> fork felt unbelievable on a fast rock garden with smallish rocks. However, on a steep rough chute, fork felt a bit divey in the midstrtoke, almost sketchy. still didnt bottom out (bottoming out is not my benchmark for good suspension setup anyway) due to max ramp control. Im wondering if id be better off on the firm with no preload. Just thought id see what others were running befor I switched.


Run the stiffer spring with less preload.

Geared up I'm 175-180 and I'm running the medium spring and feel its not at all too stiff. I run a few clicks of LSC (1/3 of full on) and the Ramp about mid way to full. Rebound - I can't recall.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

All the chart says is basically that the factory 'normal' setting is Neg = Pos + 2%, factory plush is Neg = Pos + 9%.
I'll start with 110 psi Pos and 120 psi Neg and add rebound until it feels good and then add some ramp and compression damping until it doesn't dive and feels stable.
At least that is the plan for now.


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

marti163 said:


> I run pretty close to the exact recommended pressure from the air spring chart and have been happy. 68 pos 70 neg and I'm 170 lbs running at 160mm. Ramp control 6 clicks.


Same weight and running about same pressures with only 4 clicks of RC on 130mm travel. Seems about perfect for my local trails, not too deep into sag that its in the harsh progressive zone and I am using all of the travel on the big drops but I never actually feel it bottom out I just see the oring at the top.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Anyone from Australia looking for a 27.5 Ribbon coil let me know, thinking of selling it 

Removed from sale, it’s way too good.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

C-H said:


> - Dude makes new updated chart. (Neg pressure = Pos +10%)


I mentioned this previously in this thread. IMO Neg pressure is better off setup up as 10% and not 10PSI. Makes a huge difference, especially for really light riders. If you are 140# a 10% difference VS a 10psi difference is a HUGE difference in how the fork works.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

dwyooaj said:


> Ribbon coil owners, lets post up our weight, travel setting, and which spring you're running and preload. Just took my first ride on my new one set at 163 mm, I weigh about 220 geared up so not exactly halfway between med and firm, more like on the low side of the firm. I left the medium on for first ride, with 9 turns of preload (but no preload spacer) and ramp just a few turns from max.
> fork felt unbelievable on a fast rock garden with smallish rocks. However, on a steep rough chute, fork felt a bit divey in the midstrtoke, almost sketchy. still didnt bottom out (bottoming out is not my benchmark for good suspension setup anyway) due to max ramp control. Im wondering if id be better off on the firm with no preload. Just thought id see what others were running befor I switched.


I am 210 and run the Firm. Ran the medium with 100% preload (and the preload spacer) and 100% ramp and still bottomed out constantly.

With the firm spring I am running 2 full turns of preload AND the preload washer. 7 clicks of ramp.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Stalkerfiveo said:


> I mentioned this previously in this thread. IMO Neg pressure is better off setup up as 10% and not 10PSI. Makes a huge difference, especially for really light riders. If you are 140# a 10% difference VS a 10psi difference is a HUGE difference in how the fork works.


I think it's a typo to say the pressure should be max 10 psi higher. It's not in line with their recommendation otherwise if you actually look at the pressures they list.
I plotted them and the plush setting is about 9% higher on average.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dwyooaj said:


> Ribbon coil owners, lets post up our weight, travel setting, and which spring you're running and preload. Just took my first ride on my new one set at 163 mm, I weigh about 220 geared up so not exactly halfway between med and firm, more like on the low side of the firm. I left the medium on for first ride, with 9 turns of preload (but no preload spacer) and ramp just a few turns from max.
> fork felt unbelievable on a fast rock garden with smallish rocks. However, on a steep rough chute, fork felt a bit divey in the midstrtoke, almost sketchy. still didnt bottom out (bottoming out is not my benchmark for good suspension setup anyway) due to max ramp control. Im wondering if id be better off on the firm with no preload. Just thought id see what others were running befor I switched.


168lbs. ~140mm 29". Medium. Maybe half preload? Max ramp. Never harsh, use full travel at bike park. Might try firm if I find some time to kill (which hasn't been the case for a long time!). 

Used soft spring on 170mm 27.5" previously. Now that bike has a Bartlett at 110/120 with two Huck Pucks™.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

C-H said:


> I think it's a typo to say the pressure should be max 10 psi higher. It's not in line with their recommendation otherwise if you actually look at the pressures they list.
> I plotted them and the plush setting is about 9% higher on average.


It's not a typo, it was probably the result of the KISS principle (can't remember why we went psi vs. % for sure). Normal pos. pressures for this fork for most are between ~50 - 110psi. 10% of that range is 5-11psi, so saying 10psi is a fairly good rule of thumb. Plenty of people running more like a 10psi vs. a 10% differential and liking the ride. They might be losing ~2mm of travel as a result, but if they like the plush ride that results from that setup, more power to them.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Im 190lbs on a Yelli Screamy 29er with a soft spring just installed. I have only taken it for a spin around the parking lot, no trails yet. It seems very sticky from the teflon on the spring rubbing inside. Hopefully it will wear in quick.

With the medium I was at 0 preload and 0 LSC. I used less than 2" of travel on a mild trail ride. I could not get 20% sag. Small bump compliance was ok at best, mid size bumps were harsh.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

27.5 160mm 168 lbs

I run a soft spring with half a turn of preload and maybe a washer (cant remember exactly tbh)

a bit more than half ramp control and pretty fast rebound.

took the bike up to whistler this weekend and the fork felt amazing, I was constantly blown away by it over rocks and technical bits. the breaking bumps were still there, but it wasn't bad.


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

27.5 coil, 170mm, 195lbs

Soft spring with 2 1/2 -3 turns preload. 

Rebound 8 clicks from full closed, low speed compression mid-way, ~ 6 clicks of ramp control 

I feel like it’s pretty well dialed in and has been for the past 2 -3 months or so. I’ve had it out to the western NC mountains (Pisgah and the like) probably a dozen times now and pretty amazed by how this fork performs. The biggest key for me was getting the rebound damping set right, even 1 or 2 clicks can make a pretty huge difference.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

evan9r said:


> Im 190lbs on a Yelli Screamy 29er with a soft spring just installed. I have only taken it for a spin around the parking lot, no trails yet. It seems very sticky from the teflon on the spring rubbing inside. Hopefully it will wear in quick.


Um, you didn't grease the hell out of it? I put Rock-N-Roll grease on mine and it's buttery smooth with no break in required.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> It's not a typo, it was probably the result of the KISS principle (can't remember why we went psi vs. % for sure). Normal pos. pressures for this fork for most are between ~50 - 110psi. 10% of that range is 5-11psi, so saying 10psi is a fairly good rule of thumb. Plenty of people running more like a 10psi vs. a 10% differential and liking the ride. They might be losing ~2mm of travel as a result, but if they like the plush ride that results from that setup, more power to them.


OK, thx for the clarification. For a 140 lbs rider with 10 psi more neg pressure the ride must have been super plush. That's 20% more neg than pos pressure.
I found the 'nominal' setup at +2% to be much stiffer with a noticeable break-away force from top-out. +10% was also an easy number to use.

Just by riding around the neighborhood it is clear this fork already feels a ton better than my Pike RCT3. It's night and day. The Pike isn't a bad fork but I think they got the equalization between pos/neg spring wrong. There simply isn't enough pressure on the negative side in the Pike.

Like I said, I have high hopes and the adjustments on the Ribbon make a huge difference and there is still margin. I always have to run right at the edge of everything due to being a bigger dude.

The rebound damper makes a slight slurping sound when active but I've heard that on many forks before so I take it as normal for an 'open' design (it's not a full open bath design is it?).

It's great to have a MRP rep on the forums. SRAM/RockShox never had one.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Have both air and coil Ribbon. Love these forks. Running the air with DVO Topaz rear shock and coil with DVO Jade. Basically coil with coil, air with air. Will get the Hazzard from MRP in the future.

Rider weight with gear, 160-165 lbs
Ribbon Air set up, 55 pos, 61 neg. Rebound 13 from close. Ramp 4.

Ribbon Coil set up, xtra soft spring for trail riding, soft spring for Park days. Rebound 13 from close. Ramp mid way.

I ride Angel Fire a few times with the coil and it's unbelievably supple and supportive. My buddy rides Santa Cruz V10, I have a Canfield Balance and we traded bikes on a couple runs. He was blown away on how my bike was plusher than his full down hill bike. He even offered to buy it from me.

Took the air up to Evolution Bike Park in Crested Butte and it performed flawlessly. Did 3000 ft elevation gain the next day on a big loop. Epic ride that day.

Amazing forks and customer support.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

pedrosalas7 said:


> 27.5 160mm 168 lbs
> 
> I run a soft spring with half a turn of preload and maybe a washer (cant remember exactly tbh)
> 
> ...


Same weight and fork setup as you except that I don't use any preload. Riding Stevens Pass Bike Park was a truly amazing experience.

The braking bumps practically disappeared. Blasting over boulders and roots was oh so smooth. For the first time ever, my hands weren't beat up at all.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

Curveball said:


> Same weight and fork setup as you except that I don't use any preload. Riding Stevens Pass Bike Park was a truly amazing experience.
> 
> The braking bumps practically disappeared. Blasting over boulders and roots was oh so smooth. For the first time ever, my hands weren't beat up at all.


My hands did get beat up, but two 7 hour days of bike park laps will do that. brake bumps at whistler were out in full force.

Everything else was awesome. the bike floated over roots and rocks like nothing.


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## cpolism (Mar 20, 2010)

ScottieM8 said:


> Have both air and coil Ribbon. Love these forks. Running the air with DVO Topaz rear shock and coil with DVO Jade. Basically coil with coil, air with air. Will get the Hazzard from MRP in the future.
> 
> Rider weight with gear, 160-165 lbs
> Ribbon Air set up, 55 pos, 61 neg. Rebound 13 from close. Ramp 4.
> ...


I've got a Riot and i'm considering going Ribbon air on the front and Hazzard on the back. You think there will be any issues with air front and coil rear? I was thinking of going 11.6 on the rear but i'm just stumped as to what I should do.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

pedrosalas7 said:


> My hands did get beat up, but two 7 hour days of bike park laps will do that. brake bumps at whistler were out in full force.
> 
> Everything else was awesome. the bike floated over roots and rocks like nothing.


Thanks for the info. We're going there next month.

I feel bad for the wife and son with their air forks.


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## CT_Braston (Jul 1, 2012)

Hey all, I've got a Ribbon Air set up at 140mm and I'm getting a bit of a "clunk" sound when the front wheel comes down from something like a wheelie/manual. I dont notice it when I'm JRA. It also has a bit of noticeable movement when I pull down on the lowers... Maybe something like 2mm or so extension. Enjoying the fork so far, just wondering if that's normal. 

Another little thing thats kinda been in my head about it is the ramp control knob is gold on my fork - not orange. Functionally not a big deal at all but just seems wierd.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

read up the thread a bit. it's been talked about. what are your pressures?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CT_Braston said:


> Hey all, I've got a Ribbon Air set up at 140mm and I'm getting a bit of a "clunk" sound when the front wheel comes down from something like a wheelie/manual. I dont notice it when I'm JRA. It also has a bit of noticeable movement when I pull down on the lowers... Maybe something like 2mm or so extension. Enjoying the fork so far, just wondering if that's normal.
> 
> Another little thing thats kinda been in my head about it is the ramp control knob is gold on my fork - not orange. Functionally not a big deal at all but just seems wierd.


Hi CT_Branson,

What are your spring and damper settings?

There are a couple possible culprits for your "clunk" - it is definitely not normal. I'd first check that the air spring is appropriately pressurized. To do so, completely dump the negative air, then (with the Ramp Control adjustment close-to or fully open) fill the positive chamber to your desired pressure. To make sure the fork is at proper extension, if your desired positive pressure is fairly low (below about 60 psi), fill it up to 70 psi and then slowly bleed it back down to where you want to be (using the bleed button on your shock pump). Then fill your negative chamber (slowly), being careful not exceed more than a +10 psi differential.

If that solves it, great. If not, we'll have to see what's going on inside your spring. If you are comfortable removing the lowers and air spring we can guide you further. If not, we can issue you a call tag to return it to us.

As for the small amount of extension you get if you physically pull down on the lowers, that's normal. There is a top out bumper that is compressing when you do that. It's the same reason a fork will "shrink" slightly when you pressurize the negative chamber - the spring force is allowing the fork to relax that bumper.


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## CT_Braston (Jul 1, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Hi CT_Branson,
> 
> What are your spring and damper settings?
> 
> ...


Hey Noah, Figured as much RE: the slight extension. Im currently using the recommended settings for 160lbs on the Ribbon setup chart (72 pos, 76ish neg, 12 reb.), but with 5 clicks of ramp control as well. The fork does make the clunk with LSC in any of its 8 clicks as well as the ramp off/full. I will purge all air from fork and try setting it up again to see if that resolves the clunk, then report back. I am fairly confident in tearing forks down. I did reduce this Ribbon from 160 to 140 when I bought it, so if a teardown is required I wouldnt shy away from that.


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## kingspa09 (Dec 12, 2012)

First Ride on Ribbon Coil. Bike is Capra 29 160F/160R with elevensix. Very happy thus far. 
I had a Fox 36 previously. The Ribbon doesn't feel as stout in your hands, but I can't appreciate and significantly less rigidity riding and am happy with reduced weight compared to Push ACS3. If I had to criticize anything, it would be the axle, which requires both hands to set in a preferred vertical closed position and also will knock into lower when screwing in with lever in fully open position. This is somewhat hypercritical, but the Fox axle is quite refined and I like their indexing. I'm actually a fan of the reverse truss design on MRP fork as I find it more visually appealing looking down from riding position. 

I'm ~195lbs and current preferred setting is no - 2 turns preload, 3 clicks LSC, and about 8 clicks ramp control. Rebound is 9. I sessioned several familar sections of trail last night and small bump compliance was excellent. I favor a little heavier spring rate with a more progressive end stroke. I rarely bottom out outside of big (5ft+) drops in park or natural terrain (Moab) and think the green spring will work well with considerable room left for more preload, compression and ramp control. To suppleness of the top stroke feels awesome thus far terrain along front range of CO and I'm excited to get more time in on fork.


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## CT_Braston (Jul 1, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Hi CT_Branson,
> 
> What are your spring and damper settings?
> 
> ...


Hey Noah, I purged all air from the fork, cycled it slowly a few times and reinflated - but by going past the recommended pressures and then bleeding down to them. just a quick spin in the backyard seems to have eliminated the audible clunk, so hopefully it stays that way. Still seems like it has a bit of notchyness when the wheel comes down and first contacts - im not sure how to explain it. I'll see if it's noticeable on the trail. I'll echo others and say that customer service like this is one of the reasons I bought this fork. Thanks!


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I've had my Coil for about 2 months now. Just did a lower service and swapped springs out. I previously had the soft and did a few park days, lots of my home dessert trails, and some big steep alpine days. Small bump always felt a little harsh and I decided that the fork sat too low on steep terrain. And since I'm going to BC in a few weeks with lots of steeps on my list, I've put the medium in it and much prefer it overall. Fork sits higher ~18% sag and small bump actually feels better.

So:
165-170lbs
160mm 29er
Medium spring, no preload
3 LSC
10 from closed on rebound
9 or 10 ramp

Really loving this thing on fast, chunky stuff. Tracking is amazing.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

CT_Braston said:


> Hey Noah, I purged all air from the fork, cycled it slowly a few times and reinflated - but by going past the recommended pressures and then bleeding down to them. just a quick spin in the backyard seems to have eliminated the audible clunk, so hopefully it stays that way.


Good to hear. Let me know if you need further help!

When you changed travel, did you thoroughly lube the wipers and upper bushings with Slick Honey? Doing so (and the air piston too) usually makes all "notchiness" go away.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Hi Team, 
Hope everyone is sending it! 
Just changing springs back to soft, and noticed when I took the lowers off no oil came from the spring side, I def put some in their during the last spring change. When I pulled the spring out the grease on the spring appears to have mixed with the oil from the lowers. I assume the only way this could happen is the oil in the lowers has migrated through what I assume is the ramp control holes and migrated up the shaft and come out at the top of rod and had a party with the spring and grease making the slipperiest substance known to man.

I used 7.5wt Weldtite Cycle Suspension Fork oil (it's all my LBS had at the time) and the grease for the spring was EPX Cycle Grease from ProGold. 

Any ideas? My only thought is that the ramp control is too open and its letting oil go in the hole and when the fork compress the air forces the oil up the inside of the rod. Aside from that I'm not sure what is going. 

Edit: One thing I have noticed is I got a suspension shop to do a wiper change a month or so ago and it appears they failed to put the foam ring on the spring side, not sure if that could affect it? I"ll be re installing the old one when I put it back together. 

One thing about have to pull the lowers for a spring change, whilst I first saw it as a pain, it is teaching me how forks work and I've learnt to do a basic lower service  So thanks MRP :thumbsup:


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

When is the 41mm offset 29 Ribbon going to be available?


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

First ride on the Ribbon AIR 140mm, 29" mated to a Ibis Ripley LS (XL).

I'm 250 lbs trail ready. Set Pos @ 100 / Neg @ 110. Rebound 7-8 clicks from full, Ramp @ 3 clicks from open, Compression at 3 clicks from open.
More of a XC style trail with some short up/downs, rocks and bumps. Sonoran desert style.

The Ribbon is great. Soaks up the chatter and floats on top of the trail. Front and rear of the bike feels in tune and balanced. Might drop down to 95psi pos next time.
Lots of support, rides high and feels plush.
It's night and day compared to the Pike RCT3. Much much better. The Pike is not a bad fork and many likes it but it is just much firmer overall. It never felt part of the bike if that makes sense. The rear was always nice and soaked up the trail while the front always felt like it was a step to stiff.
So far running 10% more pressure in the neg than poss seems to work just fine. Another rule of thumb that I think would work fine is to fill the pos spring with your setting and add air to the neg until it just starts to suck down a bit, maybe 3mm or so. 

Good job MRP.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

Got a ride today back on the soft spring. Holy crap I love this fork.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Just got home from my 10 day family vacation in Summit County Colorado. Rode a bunch of singletrack including Peaks trail from Breck to Frisco and a day on the lifts at Keystone.

I am really pleased with the performance of my Ribbon 27.5 160mm air. I fiddled with it a ton after installing about 6 weeks ago (I think?) but didn't need to change anything except ramp control from 2 up to 6, then settled on 4. I'm 185 geared up and per my shock pump (which I wouldn't bet my life on) I am using 75+ and 79-. Two clicks from open LSC.

I never felt the fork bottom out despite using all the travel on Peaks and at Keystone. I backed out some ramp control after one run at Keystone because it felt a little harsh on big hits. I wish I could ride that stuff more often, my local trails pale in comparison.

I did use the air bleeders on the lowers when I first arrived, and there was some audible equalization.

Small bumps were swallowed up and the fork was very controlled under braking and I didn't have any issues climbing, except my cardio.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## marti163 (Feb 20, 2008)

Converted mine from air to coil this week and the improvement far exceeded my expectations. Running a light spring at 165mm for my 170 lbs and it feels very supportive...definitely didn’t bottom and doesn’t feel the slightest bit divey. 

My air spring was starting to act up and during the conversion I found the orange top out bumper starting to come apart. Even comparing the coil to the best the air ever felt the coil is a marked improvement. Having to exercise self control to not buy a coil ribbon for my 29er too.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Legbacon (Jan 20, 2004)

When is the 41mm offset 29 Ribbon going to be available???


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Travis Bickle said:


> When is the 41mm offset 29 Ribbon going to be available???


Pretty sure they are available I would call mrp direct.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Travis Bickle said:


> When is the 41mm offset 29 Ribbon going to be available???


Now.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

marti163 said:


> Having to exercise self control to not buy a coil ribbon for my 29er too.


Do it!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I saw you can order the Hazzard now. Also it gives an option for an orange shock body got pics?

Is it time to start a new thread?

Also @ 650$ plus spring is getting into boutique territory.

I'll save money and wait for reviews at this point.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I saw you can order the Hazzard now. Also it gives an option for an orange shock body got pics?
> 
> Is it time to start a new thread?
> 
> ...


I think our pricing is inline with Fox, Rock Shox, and Cane Creek ($605, $550, and $665, respectively). A Push 11-6 is $1,200 with spring and hardware.

Not a great pic, we don't have studio shots yet.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Eradicate and humiliate your competition by pricing at $450.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ya that orange one would look sweet on my Recluse.

One question why do coil shocks minus spring cost more then top of the line air shocks?

I would think the air shock to be more complex and therefore cost more.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> One question why do coil shocks minus spring cost more then top of the line air shocks?
> 
> I would think the air shock to be more complex and therefore cost more.


Because they're that much better. 

Just joking around.

I don't know fully. But I wouldn't say air shocks are more complex, just different.

As of right now there are a lot of major parts that are machined in-house in our shocks (from raw material), whereas most of our competitors are starting with forged parts that have secondary machine ops. That's not necessarily bad or good, but ours are currently quite expensive to make - economies of scale and all that.

But I don't necessarily think it's true that coil is more than air, certainly if you add in a premium spring, yes. The Fox Float X2 has an MSRP of $625. Likewise the Cane Creek Double Barrel Air is $695.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

what are the spring rates and stroke lengths available for the progressive springs? not available yet i know, but just wondering.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

spin4spin said:


> what are the spring rates and stroke lengths available for the progressive springs? not available yet i know, but just wondering.


We're still finalizing the rates and what to call them. But all the springs will accomodate up to 65mm of stroke (they are all roughly the same free length).


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I saw you can order the Hazzard now. Also it gives an option for an orange shock body got pics?
> 
> Is it time to start a new thread?


http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/mrp-hazzard-1078859.html


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## CT_Braston (Jul 1, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Good to hear. Let me know if you need further help!
> 
> When you changed travel, did you thoroughly lube the wipers and upper bushings with Slick Honey? Doing so (and the air piston too) usually makes all "notchiness" go away.


Hey Noah, the notchiness isnt noticeable on the trail, and I think the fork has bedded in a bit more. Just noticing when I pull the bike up by the handlebar/stem I can feel the fork lowers moving down with the weight of the wheel, thats kinda what I was trying to describe in my first post. I was super thorough with the Slick Honey when changing the travel so I dont think its a lubrication issue. or it could be fine any I'm just being overly cautious...

Also unrelated - but will the Hazzard shock be available in a trunion 165x45 eventually?


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

yrrekr said:


> Hmmm. Mine does not make that noise, so something's definitely up. You're sure the negative spring is holding it's air, right? Is rebound dampening working correctly?
> 
> The air-spring looks pretty easy to get at, based on MRP's vids. Might be something that's easy to see if you get it apart...





NoahColorado said:


> Hey man, sorry, I've been at Eurobike. Did we get your problem resolved?


Thanks Noah, I think I got it sorted out (emailed you guys and Eric got back to me). he suggested slowing the rebound down a bit and this seemed to do the trick!


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

Well, my Ribbon air seems to be losing negative air pressure immediately after I push down on the fork. It eventually goes to zero after a short ride... I suppose air spring seals need to be changed? The positive side does really change the pressure. So I am guessing it is leaking into the lower leg? Has anyone experienced this?


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

KWJP said:


> Well, my Ribbon air seems to be losing negative air pressure immediately after I push down on the fork. It eventually goes to zero after a short ride... I suppose air spring seals need to be changed? The positive side does really change the pressure. So I am guessing it is leaking into the lower leg? Has anyone experienced this?


I was told there were a few forks that had faulty schrader valves and I was sent a new one. It didn't fix the issue I had though.

Maybe make sure the core is in tight?

Call or email them or PM Noah and they should take care of you.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

KWJP said:


> Well, my Ribbon air seems to be losing negative air pressure immediately after I push down on the fork. It eventually goes to zero after a short ride... I suppose air spring seals need to be changed? The positive side does really change the pressure. So I am guessing it is leaking into the lower leg? Has anyone experienced this?


Unfortunately my new Ribbon arrived this way from the factory. 6 weeks on and I'm still waiting for the repaired unit... I have yet to ride the thing, at this point I'm hoping it blows my mind with awesomeness.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

geraldooka said:


> Unfortunately my new Ribbon arrived this way from the factory. 6 weeks on and I'm still waiting for the repaired unit... I have yet to ride the thing, at this point I'm hoping it blows my mind with awesomeness.


Wow the MRP Ribbon is making the old Cane Creek Inline shock look reliable!


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

Rick Draper said:


> Wow the MRP Ribbon is making the old Cane Creek Inline shock look reliable!


Since MRP has my fork, I'm really curious about this 6 week thing...

Also if you read through the thread there are plenty of rave reviews...to be fair.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

I never had any problems with my CC DB Inline Coil...


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Rick Draper said:


> Wow the MRP Ribbon is making the old Cane Creek Inline shock look reliable!


At this point that's an absurd comparison.

The CC inline had way higher failure rate and more importantly it had repeated failures. It took them a year or more to get their **** together.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## pianoman84d (Apr 4, 2017)

With all the negativity (including some of mine as I tried to get things figured out), thought i'd pop in and say that now that I've got it sorted and dialed (which is harder than with most due to the amount of variables), its the best air fork i've ever used...


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

My Ribbon worked great, right out of the box. Absolutely no reliability issues. 

The only minor issue I had was that it took about 6 weeks to get my fork as part of be Guerrilla Gravity build. Seems to be a pretty common issue.


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

I got my Ribbon Air as a used. So I am not blaming on the quality of this fork. I actually have Ribbon Coil as well, which was purchased as a new. It is performing super well, and has been trouble free. 
My used Air had an issue when I received it too. The Schrader valve on the positive side was leaking. When I contacted MRP, they sent me a new valve for free. They knew it was a second hand fork. So far their support has been amazing. I am sure my air fork will be fixed soon. I just finished changing all air spring seals and negative Schrader valve (just in case). I just need to test it out. Whenever I cycled the travel, it seems to be maintaining the pressure.
One thing I noticed on the negative pressure is that it requires much less pump to fill it. It means it has less space to fill with air. So when you hook the pump again to see the pressure, the ratio of the air volume loss to the hose is much larger than the positive side (or any other conventional air fork). So it looks like it lost 10 psi or so due to the initial pressure equalization on the hose. You can see this by hooking the hose immediately after you pump it to your desired value. I left the pump on the negative side for a while, but the pressure didn’t change. So I am hoping that the seal change did the fix. It still may have some leak after actual ride though.


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## Rick Draper (Dec 1, 2009)

ColinL said:


> At this point that's an absurd comparison.
> 
> The CC inline had way higher failure rate and more importantly it had repeated failures. It took them a year or more to get their **** together.
> 
> Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


It seems the Ribbon has been around for over 12 months now and yet still people are getting forks with massive stiction issues. Maybe MRP need to get their "**** together" as you put it.


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

Rick Draper said:


> It seems the Ribbon has been around for over 12 months now and yet still people are getting forks with massive stiction issues. Maybe MRP need to get their "**** together" as you put it.


You sure? I don't see that on this thread. The last few that said something like that on here are people getting older ones used or just settings issues. Pretty sure the stiction issues have been long fixed.

I've had my ribbon air for 2 months and its been flawless, best fork I've ridden.


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

Just to be clear, mine doesn’t have any stiction issue. It is purely an air leak issue which is probably caused by improper maintenance or treatment by me or previous owner.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

Does anyone have an Extra soft spring that isn't being used and they'd like to part with?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

KWJP said:


> Well, my Ribbon air seems to be losing negative air pressure immediately after I push down on the fork.


 Well, there's only a few possible culprits, so it's probably best to just go down the list one by one and eliminate possibilities.

The easiest is always the schrader valve. First put a Schrader core tool on there and make sure it's tight. If you do get an easy turn out of it, see if that solves it. If not, replace it and see if that solves it.

Then it's a matter of inspecting and replacing the seals in the air-spring. At that same time you can inspect the inside of the stanchion for scratches or wear. That'd be the worst-case scenario and require a stanchion replacement. Still, in the case of this fork, we can replace one stanchion, you're not forced to buy a full CSU.



KWJP said:


> The positive side does really change the pressure. So I am guessing it is leaking into the lower leg?


Do you mean "doesn't"?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Unfortunately my new Ribbon arrived this way from the factory. 6 weeks on and I'm still waiting for the repaired unit... I have yet to ride the thing, at this point I'm hoping it blows my mind with awesomeness.


Curious about your situation. I'm not aware of anything that would cause a six+ week warranty turnaround. That is definitely unacceptable.

Please send me a DM with your contact information and some info on your fork (problem, serial, etc.), I'm happy to see what I can do to get it back to you.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

*I'm back!*

Sorry I've been MIA, I had a big crash last Friday and blew up my spleen. I'm just now starting to resume my day-to-day routine.

Thought y'all might like to read the latest Ribbon Coil review from Wideopen Magazine in the UK.

Check it out here.

Summary:

*What do we think?*
_"Quite simply, I think this fork is the nuts. It has helped me to ride and race faster than I did without it.

The MRP Ribbon Coil gives me loads of confidence in the front wheel, maintaining a strong, poised riding position and being ready for anything the trail can spit at me.

If you're looking to upgrade your fork or build up a long travel bike from scratch, this latest offering from MRP is well worth a look."_


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Damn, dude. Heal up!


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry I've been MIA, I had a big crash last Friday and blew up my spleen. I'm just now starting to resume my day-to-day routine.[/I]


Holy sh!t! Get well soon, bro!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Curious about your situation. I'm not aware of anything that would cause a six+ week warranty turnaround. That is definitely unacceptable.
> 
> Please send me a DM with your contact information and some info on your fork (problem, serial, etc.), I'm happy to see what I can do to get it back to you.


Thanks Noah I rarely whine publicly about this sort of thing but this thread found me at a weak moment. To be fair it was returned June 18th and Warranty swapped the CSU for a shorter offset. I received notice that it was shipped today. Look forward to trying it out. I think I'm a little uneasy with the fork as a result of this initial issue and the harsh top out I experienced in a garage test (which may well be related to the leaking negative chamber) when I did have it so just crossing fingers it's all good.

I should note I did not notice any unusual stiction.

P.S. saw your posts in Instagram, hope you feel better soon.


----------



## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

UPDATE

Quick recap: about an hour into a ride the fork would firm up and basically be locked out. Air pressure in the negative didn’t change based on my readings from before and after rides. It was suggested here that it could need a damper bleed. 

Just got off the phone with Eric and apparently there was a scratch inside the stanchion that was causing the negative air to bleed into the positive champer and then by the time I got home, it would settle back down. He said he’s never seen that before. 

He replaced everything including the stanchion, seals, bushings, oil, etc and he tested every part of the fork just to make sure it was running perfectly. Then he shipped it back to me. All at no cost. 

This is the reason I chose MRP, aside from the great reviews. Great company and great people that stand behind a great product. 

I can’t wait to build a bigger bike that I can put a Ribbon coil and Hazard on. Probably a GG Megatrail. 

PS- Noah, how’d the Ribbon handle the crash? Just kidding. Get well soon.


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## KWJP (Feb 23, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Well, there's only a few possible culprits, so it's probably best to just go down the list one by one and eliminate possibilities.
> 
> The easiest is always the schrader valve. First put a Schrader core tool on there and make sure it's tight. If you do get an easy turn out of it, see if that solves it. If not, replace it and see if that solves it.
> 
> ...


Well, I thought it may be leaking between the two chambers (between the positive piston and negative piston). I guess that is not really in lower leg... I am not sure if that would make any difference but I was trying to figure out where the leaked air was going.
Anyway, I changed both seals and valve since I didn't want to open it up again. I rode about two hours on my local trails today. Just to make sure, I did some drops (small ones). It appears to be holding the pressure. The fork felt good. So I am happy with the result. 
By the way, my seal kit had a seal which didn't seem like correct one. The biggest seal which goes into the positive piston was considerably thinner. I didn't think it will work. So I reused the old one. Did the design change?
I pray for your speedy recovery.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry I've been MIA, I had a big crash last Friday and blew up my spleen. I'm just now starting to resume my day-to-day routine.
> 
> Thought y'all might like to read the latest Ribbon Coil review from Wideopen Magazine in the UK.
> 
> ...


That review pretty well mirrors my own impressions.

I also f*cking love this fork!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Thanks Noah I rarely whine publicly about this sort of thing but this thread found me at a weak moment. To be fair it was returned June 18th and Warranty swapped the CSU for a shorter offset. I received notice that it was shipped today. Look forward to trying it out. I think I'm a little uneasy with the fork as a result of this initial issue and the harsh top out I experienced in a garage test (which may well be related to the leaking negative chamber) when I did have it so just crossing fingers it's all good.
> 
> I should note I did not notice any unusual stiction.
> 
> P.S. saw your posts in Instagram, hope you feel better soon.


No problem, what you reported just seemed really unusual. I understand part of the delay was in relation to the swapping to our machined-in-house short-offset crown, which has been very popular. I was told some additional delay was caused by us holding the shipment to be sure you'd be home when it arrived (it was an international shipment). If you disagree with what I've been told please shoot me a PM. We're serious about holding people accountable for doing what they say they'd do, when they'd do it.

We aim to have warranty work turned around ASAP, especially when it's the egg-on-our-face type where something is problematic out of the box.


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

Anyone with experience running these on a Transition SBG bike like the Smuggler or Sentinel?

I'm coming from a 34 @ 44mm offset to the Ribbon @ 46mm, wondering how much of a difference the 2mm actually makes.

Also, is this the latest setup chart?

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...9f49af6c/1493403260843/Ribbon_Setup_Chart.pdf

I know it was changed at some point and I want to get off on the right foot.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Adodero said:


> Anyone with experience running these on a Transition SBG bike like the Smuggler or Sentinel?
> 
> I'm coming from a 34 @ 44mm offset to the Ribbon @ 46mm, wondering how much of a difference the 2mm actually makes.
> 
> ...


Honestly, if you didn't know the difference existed, you probably wouldn't notice. I've experimented with a pretty wide range of offsets, and a 10mm difference is immediately apparent, but anything less is pretty subtle. So 2mm? Unlikely.

But, we do offer a 41mm offset option too.

That's the relevant pressure chart. I suggest you start with the "plush" negative chamber pressure recommendation. In the future that's one aspect of the chart I might change, as I think most people prefer it. Should be a good starting point.


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## ccm (Jan 14, 2004)

will MRP be making a 110x15 axle 120mm travel 29" fork for XC racing soon?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ccm said:


> will MRP be making a 110x15 axle 120mm travel 29" fork for XC racing soon?


Barry Wicks, Spencer Paxson, and the rest of the Kona XC team use Ribbon's set at 120mm for XC and backcountry XC racing already!

But as for something other than that, not "soon."


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## ccm (Jan 14, 2004)

Ok, I'm interested
what type of settings for 
Pavement - lockout-like feel on a paved climbs 
Off-road - anti-vibration or reduce vibration to hands in first 10mm of travel (after sag), good support at mid travel to prevent bobbing from pedaling, and progressive ramp up to prevent hard bottoming at full travel


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

ccm said:


> Ok, I'm interested
> what type of settings for
> Pavement - lockout-like feel on a paved climbs
> Off-road - anti-vibration or reduce vibration to hands in first 10mm of travel (after sag), good support at mid travel to prevent bobbing from pedaling, and progressive ramp up to prevent hard bottoming at full travel


You're not going to get a firm lockout on the ribbon or anything similar.

Sounds like you really do need a xc race fork.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## kingspa09 (Dec 12, 2012)

Just got back from trip to BC (Squamish and Whistler) and couldn't be happier with Ribbon Coil. Small bump was amazing over the endless roots and resort brake bumps. We did about 30K feet of descending and things never felt divey (I added 1-2 clicks LSC for 4-5 total). Green spring and 0 preload for ~18% sag. I bottomed out a little harsh only twice, but going to 8-10 clicks ramp control resolved that and I honestly don't know when I'll get back on slabs that steep with those kind of g-out forces. Quick question...I wasn't closely counting rebound riding, but when I finished our trip, I recorded final settings and noted I was 14 clicks out for rebound and that I have 28 clicks total (18 listed on decal). I thought I recalled someone mentioning a similar situation some pages back, but wanted to check. Should I treat my 14 of 28 clicks as equivalent to 9 of 18 (what charts has recommended for weight)?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kingspa09 said:


> Quick question...I wasn't closely counting rebound riding, but when I finished our trip, I recorded final settings and noted I was 14 clicks out for rebound and that I have 28 clicks total (18 listed on decal). I thought I recalled someone mentioning a similar situation some pages back, but wanted to check. Should I treat my 14 of 28 clicks as equivalent to 9 of 18 (what charts has recommended for weight)?


Good to hear!

Treat how? For the purposes of recording your settings, note whatever they actually are so you're able to get back to them after service or if you're just trying to get back to a baseline. So your 14 clicks is the relevant number.

For any adjustment that's moving a needle, "clicks out" is the way to count vs. "X of X".


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## carlhulit (Sep 13, 2005)

For folks who have ridden both whats the synopsis of air vs coil? It sounds like the only real downside to the coil is the weight and the possibility that I would be right between the med/firm springs at 205-210 and 150mm.


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

Has anyone with the Ribbon Air had issues with stiction? Mine arrived today and it's very sticky with weight on the bike. It's smooth when I cycle it by hand, off the bike, but when I put weight on the bike, it gets very sticky especially off the top of the travel. I've tried it with various rebound/compression/ramp control settings and the effect is the same, it's notchy and sticky. 

220lb rider, running recommended settings: 99psi, 108 neg, 8 rebound from closed. Fork at 140mm 29. Same effect regardless of compression/ramp setting.

I also tried pulling the lowers, replacing oil, regreasing seals, and regreasing the airspring with slick honey. Same thing. 

I haven't ridden it yet, prior owner had a few rides on it apparently, but not many (it showed no signs of having been ridden extensively, he said he rode it twice and that was it)


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

Responding to my own post. 

I spoke to MRP this morning and was blown away a mountain bike company has people in the office at 9a. 

At any rate, they were helpful, as always, and said to get some time on the fork and see if it beds in some, so I'll do that and report back. I also flipped it upside down as most of the oil appeared to have drained out through the burp valves, figuring it might help lubricate things somewhat with the new oil I put in when I did the travel change.


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## kingspa09 (Dec 12, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Good to hear!
> 
> Treat how? For the purposes of recording your settings, note whatever they actually are so you're able to get back to them after service or if you're just trying to get back to a baseline. So your 14 clicks is the relevant number.
> 
> For any adjustment that's moving a needle, "clicks out" is the way to count vs. "X of X".


Sorry for the awkward wording. Yes, I'm familiar with always counting from closed/most dampened setting. I'm more curious I guess with my settings in relation to listed recommendations and what others are riding. It seems there are some small inconsistencies with actual (28) v. listed (18) indexing for rebound. Would 1 click have less effect for me compared to a fork with only 18 clicks. This may be a moot point though as currently my 14 clicks of 28 total would seem to yield the same 50% dampening as 9 clicks would if I have 18 total as listed. Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kingspa09 said:


> Sorry for the awkward wording. Yes, I'm familiar with always counting from closed/most dampened setting. I'm more curious I guess with my settings in relation to listed recommendations and what others are riding. It seems there are some small inconsistencies with actual (28) v. listed (18) indexing for rebound. Would 1 click have less effect for me compared to a fork with only 18 clicks. This may be a moot point though as currently my 14 clicks of 28 total would seem to yield the same 50% dampening as 9 clicks would if I have 18 total as listed. Thanks!


I'll preface this by saying I'm not an engineer (but I've been inside these things a lot), the click discrepancy is resulting from tolerance stack, slight variations in needle length, slight variations in internal rod threading depth, and some difference in how clicks are counted user-to-user. What doesn't change is max, when you dial the rebound all the way in, the cup on the end of your needle is touching a peg. The distance it comes off that per counterclockwise click doesn't change user-to-user / fork-to-fork. So the recommendations being "clicks out" hold for every fork - the steps are the same whether you have 20, 22, 24, or whatever total clicks. After 18 or 20 clicks out, the oil is pretty much freely flowing so backing out beyond that isn't making an appreciable difference in damping.


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## kingspa09 (Dec 12, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> I'll preface this by saying I'm not an engineer (but I've been inside these things a lot), the click discrepancy is resulting from tolerance stack, slight variations in needle length, slight variations in internal rod threading depth, and some difference in how clicks are counted user-to-user. What doesn't change is max, when you dial the rebound all the way in, the cup on the end of your needle is touching a peg. The distance it comes off that per counterclockwise click doesn't change user-to-user / fork-to-fork. So the recommendations being "clicks out" hold for every fork - the steps are the same whether you have 20, 22, 24, or whatever total clicks. After 18 or 20 clicks out, the oil is pretty much freely flowing so backing out beyond that isn't making an appreciable difference in damping.


Perfect. Thanks Noah!


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Adodero said:


> Responding to my own post.
> 
> I spoke to MRP this morning and was blown away a mountain bike company has people in the office at 9a.
> 
> At any rate, they were helpful, as always, and said to get some time on the fork and see if it beds in some, so I'll do that and report back. I also flipped it upside down as most of the oil appeared to have drained out through the burp valves, figuring it might help lubricate things somewhat with the new oil I put in when I did the travel change.


Is this mounted to a full suspension bike?


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

I think it must have been a lubrication issue. I let the fork rest inverted for a few hours, then went and rode, it seemed to smooth out a fair bit. It's still a tad sticky, so I'll let it rest that way for a while longer and see if it continues to help.

I did a ride on it and it felt a lot better than the 34 it replaced, much more supportive. I ran slightly lower PSI (105 instead of 109) than recommended for "plush" in the negative, it was still smooth but I think I'm gonna dial that up a bit and see how it feels.

It's gonna take some getting used to having a fork that's actually supportive. I caught myself subconsciously expecting it to dive a few times and it didn't, which is a really nice feeling.



geraldooka said:


> Is this mounted to a full suspension bike?


Yes, Carbon Smuggler


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## airbornedude (Sep 7, 2014)

*Can't turn the rebound knob*

I was out for a ride at the bike park last weekend and decided to adjust the rebound damping on my 130mm Ribbon Air. I had a really hard time turning the rebound knob. Almost impossible to turn. I had it set at about 10-11 clicks out the last time I adjusted it and it has turned by hand easily prior to this. Has anyone had this issue? Back at home now and I can't turn the rebound knob without sticking a small Allen wrench in the hole on the knob and applying a good amount of torque. Do I have an issue that requires repair or a fork service. Any help is appreciated!


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

did you cycle the fork on the ground without wheel? If yes probably something is bent.


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## airbornedude (Sep 7, 2014)

nikon255 said:


> did you cycle the fork on the ground without wheel? If yes probably something is bent.


The only time that could have happened is when I had a bike fit and the bike was mounted in a roller stationary trainer and the fork was secured to a stand. Putting the bike in a trainer shouldn't damage the fork??


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

airbornedude said:


> The only time that could have happened is when I had a bike fit and the bike was mounted in a roller stationary trainer and the fork was secured to a stand. Putting the bike in a trainer shouldn't damage the fork??


No, it shouldn't, but if the wheel was off and weight put onto the bars, it doesn't take much to bend the small post that the rebound knob is attached to. It's aluminum and thin.

If the shop is used to doing road bikes they may have thought it was OK to rest the bike on the fork without the front wheel. But it isn't.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


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## airbornedude (Sep 7, 2014)

ColinL said:


> No, it shouldn't, but if the wheel was off and weight put onto the bars, it doesn't take much to bend the small post that the rebound knob is attached to. It's aluminum and thin.
> 
> If the shop is used to doing road bikes they may have thought it was OK to rest the bike on the fork without the front wheel. But it isn't.
> 
> Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk


Oh jeez. Well the stand has dropouts so the axle goes through the fork like usual. But I see what you mean. I can't say if that happened because the bike was not in my sight at all times. I suppose a rock hit could do it too? Though there aren't any visible signs of that.

Can a shop fix that or do I need to send it in?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

airbornedude said:


> I was out for a ride at the bike park last weekend and decided to adjust the rebound damping on my 130mm Ribbon Air. I had a really hard time turning the rebound knob. Almost impossible to turn. I had it set at about 10-11 clicks out the last time I adjusted it and it has turned by hand easily prior to this. Has anyone had this issue? Back at home now and I can't turn the rebound knob without sticking a small Allen wrench in the hole on the knob and applying a good amount of torque. Do I have an issue that requires repair or a fork service. Any help is appreciated!


Have you taken the rebound knob off? You might start there. It's attached by a small set screw, I think it takes a 1.5mm hex (not sure off the top of my head), it's teeny. If you back that out and pull off the knob, you could see if the set screw was/is properly engaging the indent in the post and if the post looks mangled in any way.

I suppose the next step would be taking whole bolt assembly off and seeing if you can turn the needle with a hex key. But, I have some reservations about doing that without being able to turn the rebound all the way in first - I'd worry that backing the bolt out could fully unthread the needle. Probably best to call our service manager in the AM. Call our office and ask for Eric, or shoot an e-mail to eprinster (at) mrpbike.com.


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## airbornedude (Sep 7, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Have you taken the rebound knob off? You might start there. It's attached by a small set screw, I think it takes a 1.5mm hex (not sure off the top of my head), it's teeny. If you back that out and pull off the knob, you could see if the set screw was/is properly engaging the indent in the post and if the post looks mangled in any way.
> 
> I suppose the next step would be taking whole bolt assembly off and seeing if you can turn the needle with a hex key. But, I have some reservations about doing that without being able to turn the rebound all the way in first - I'd worry that backing the bolt out could fully unthread the needle. Probably best to call our service manager in the AM. Call our office and ask for Eric, or shoot an e-mail to eprinster (at) mrpbike.com.


Thanks Noah! I took the set screw out and pulled the knob off. The post looks pristine and indent looks fine. There was a little bit of dirt inside the knob. I put the knob back on after cleaning it out and it turns easier now. Is any lubrication needed around the post? I noticed some oil on the bolt and surrounding area


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

New Ribbon Coil 150mm medium spring and CC DB Coil 450# on a GG Smash.

Edit: I pulled it, it’s green, so medium.

I’m 200#, aggressive rider, all mountain, tend to prefer a softer ride. I understand how the fork works, no issues with the rebound or ramp, but even with the preload set at zero, I can’t bottom the fork; getting 140mm travel with everything at zero.

I suspect I need the next softest spring. Thoughts?

I already have a 400# spring ordered for the rear cuz it’s too stiff.


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

oopee, nevermind


Nurse Ben said:


> New Ribbon Coil 150mm medium spring and CC DB Coil 450# on a GG Smash; at least I think it's a medium coil, GG could have installed the firm; I'll call them about it Monday.
> 
> I'm 200#, aggressive rider, all mountain, tend to prefer a softer ride. I understand how the fork works, no issues with the rebound or ramp, but even with the preload set at zero, I can't bottom the fork; getting 140mm travel with everything at zero.
> 
> ...


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Coil preload for sag, ramp for progression?

Increasing preload reduced travel and made the fork ride harsher.

Ramp made minimal difference, does that make sense?

Fork does not feel supple, which is what I expected with a coil.

Edit: Pulled the spring cap, green spring, so medium, which is correct for my weight.

So why does it not feel supple? I tried all sorts of setting variation, all settings at zero, so full rebound, nonpreliad, no ramp, open damper, and it stole rode harsh and I still couldn't get bottom out.

Funny thing is the sag is ~ 30%, so that part is right.

Maybe I don't like it cuz I'm used to an air fork? I've run a coil shock and I like it, though it is different from an air shock. I was expecting a spring fork to feel different than air fork in the same way a coil shock felt different from an air shock ....

Is anyone running a lighter spring with some preload? What weight, spring, and turns of preload are you using?

Anyone weighing 200# using a yellow/light spring?



nhodge said:


> coil preload has zero effect on final travel or BO, unless you think you're getting a "runup" or head start to full travel


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## nhodge (Jul 6, 2004)

since you responded before my edit went thru,,,


Nurse Ben said:


> Coil preload for sag,_yes_ ramp for progression?_yes_
> 
> Increasing preload reduced travel_doesn't, only makes initial travel harsher_ and made the fork ride harsher.
> 
> ...


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

While you can't pull the spring out via the top cap, perhaps you should remove the cap and cycle the fork to determine if full bottom out is actually at 150mm. It's possible your fork could be set at 140.

You could also measure the exposed stanction from the inner side of the crown (it dips down there.)

Given your weight and being a more a aggressive rider, you should be bottoming that out. I'm less than 170 when riding and have 160mm with medium spring, no preload and can regularly bottom if not using some ramp. This is in desert terrain and running ~18%. I've used a soft spring, but found I liked the feel and ride height with the medium.

Regarding the supple feeling, at 30% sag you are running pretty deep in the travel. Even with a stiffer spring, you'll still have lots of sensitivity off the top. It is a different feel over small bumps than what I've had in an air fork. Not as muted, but so much more traction at the same time.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Nurse Ben said:


> I can't bottom the fork; getting 140mm travel with everything at zero.
> 
> I suspect I need the next softest spring. Thoughts?












The way the crown is shaped the inner side is lower than the outside so if you are eyeballing travel use it's easy to overlook this and think you are using less travel than you are.

The photo above shows where my o-ring ended up after a few days of smashing the bike through black trails in Pemby/Whistler/Squamish.

I'm 200lbs ready to ride. LSC wide open, 1/3rd Ramp Control and medium spring with whatever the stock pre-load is on a 150mm 29er fork.

It doesn't feel like an air fork, but going back to my air fork I would rather be on this fork. Soft suspension and aggressive riding do not go together.

That said trying a different spring makes sense. Worse case you sell it someone else and get most of your $$ back and at least you know medium is the right spring for you.


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## B Rabbit (May 30, 2014)

I initially found the fork stiff off the the top but found small bump got better with the seals bedding in. That said, I got it even better with plenty of grease on the spring, lube the bushings before stanchion install and plenty of slick honey on the dust wipers. Also, not sure what wipers MRP use, but maybe even a set of lower friction wipers (if they exist) could help. 
I was having trouble getting any where near full travel and tried a lighter spring then recommended but have since gone back to the 'correct' spring and am in love, and I'm not sure if its due to a better rebuild or maybe my riding style changed a bit, but I'm getting good travel use out of it now. 
And has been repeated several times in the thread, measure your travel used from the dust wipers up to the 0-ring, not travel left over from the o-ring up to the crown. 
Personally Id stay with it, its by far the best fork I've tried, but took a while to get it right.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

I worked with the fork last night and I think it's more a stiction issue which is making it feel rough.

Obviously I'm gonna ride it for now cuz it's too expensive to do anything else. Hopefully it'll loosen up and start feeling better after some more ride time.

The hard part is the new bike feel didn't go off well, no matter how good a bike can ride, a poorly functioning suspension really "dampens" the feel good vibe.

I may break it down and lube it up.

Check on the travel measuring.



B Rabbit said:


> I initially found the fork stiff off the the top but found small bump got better with the seals bedding in. That said, I got it even better with plenty of grease on the spring, lube the bushings before stanchion install and plenty of slick honey on the dust wipers. Also, not sure what wipers MRP use, but maybe even a set of lower friction wipers (if they exist) could help.
> I was having trouble getting any where near full travel and tried a lighter spring then recommended but have since gone back to the 'correct' spring and am in love, and I'm not sure if its due to a better rebuild or maybe my riding style changed a bit, but I'm getting good travel use out of it now.
> And has been repeated several times in the thread, measure your travel used from the dust wipers up to the 0-ring, not travel left over from the o-ring up to the crown.
> Personally Id stay with it, its by far the best fork I've tried, but took a while to get it right.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Turn the bike upside down and leave it like that overnight. That will lube the seals without you having to open the fork up.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

vikb said:


> Turn the bike upside down and leave it like that overnight. That will lube the seals without you having to open the fork up.


This is common advice for MTB forks, and yes, if you have foam rings it does cause them to be soaked in bath oil.

I'm not sure that I would recommend that with a Ribbon because of the pressure relief valves on the lowers. Wasn't there just someone commenting that bath oil weeped out of theirs?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

ColinL said:


> This is common advice for MTB forks, and yes, if you have foam rings it does cause them to be soaked in bath oil.
> 
> I'm not sure that I would recommend that with a Ribbon because of the pressure relief valves on the lowers. Wasn't there just someone commenting that bath oil weeped out of theirs?


I've done it several times and not had any oil leak out of those valves. Obviously don't press them when the bike is inverted.

FWIW - this is advice that MRP has posted in this thread more than once so it's mothership approved.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> I worked with the fork last night and I think it's more a stiction issue which is making it feel rough.
> 
> Obviously I'm gonna ride it for now cuz it's too expensive to do anything else. Hopefully it'll loosen up and start feeling better after some more ride time.
> 
> ...


Sorry you're not yet jiving with the fork. How many rides have you done?

The ride of coil is different and there are some riders who like the ride of air suspension that's setup very soft, but very rampy at the end - that's not something you can replicate with coil. Coil is more "sporty" and supported in the mid-stroke.

You may enjoy a softer spring, but the risk is even with max Ramp, you might hit bottom-out more than you'd like. But it's worth trying. Our spring rate chart is simply a guideline and does not take into account rider position and front/rear weight balance. For example, many flat pedal riders ride further off the back of the bike and need to adjust front suspension softer than a typical clipless rider. Similarly, someone who rides very aggressively over the front needs a firmer setup so that big hits don't launch them out the front door.

In any case, I'd be wary of drawing too many conclusions before you have much saddle time. Based on the bikes in your signature, the Smash is a radical departure (geometry-wise) from your other FS rides.

Surprised you're going to a 400lb coil in the back, based on your weight and the bike, our spring calculator would put you on a 500lb spring. Just goes to show, formulas and estimators only get you so far.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Nurse Ben said:


> I worked with the fork last night and I think it's more a stiction issue which is making it feel rough.
> 
> Obviously I'm gonna ride it for now cuz it's too expensive to do anything else. Hopefully it'll loosen up and start feeling better after some more ride time.
> 
> ...


30% sag is quite a bit for a fork. Perhaps you're running too much sag? I know I have discovered this in my own setups where running things too soft actually made the ride more harsh.

Finding that balance point takes some effort for sure. With a hardtail it's easier as there is only one end to worry about. With my full sus it's been trickier. Especially with modern geometry and slacker head angles it's easier for a bike to sag in the rear too much and pivot back on the front axle rather than compress the fork appropriately. This imbalance will cause the fork to bind and result in a harsh front end (among other odd handling characteristics). I'd look closely at how your suspension is balanced, trying things like hopping up and down on a level surface and observing what your front is doing in relation to the rear. They should be compressing at similar ratios. If your rear compresses much more than your front (or the reverse) then you need to fix that imbalance by running more air, heavier spring, possibly compression adjustments etc.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

geraldooka said:


> 30% sag is quite a bit for a fork.
> 
> Especially with modern geometry and slacker head angles it's easier for a bike to sag in the rear too much and pivot back on the front axle rather than compress the fork appropriately.


Yup. I've stopped setting sag on my forks. The new long modern geo makes it pretty hard to get consistent readings. I just adjust by trail feel.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Three rides, some fast flow, some really ugly miles on scree, some boulder jumping, a few bigger drops, 20+ miles. The small hit compliance is terrible, which is super disappointing. It has plenty of support on big drops.

I ran the suspension in Cush, then Crush, Cush felt better but still quite firm.

For sure I'm not bottoming out, travel is set for 150mm, I'm measuring correctly, not getting close to that, maybe 135mm.

I rode a Fatillac with a CC IL Coil and a Mastodon, 150mm travel bith ends, this bike is meant to replace it; was looking for a big hit 29er. I ran a softer coil on that bike as well.

I tried running some preload, reduced sag to 20% and it didn't ride better.

I'll keep riding it, though I may install a soft spring if I can't get it to feel good with a medium spring.



NoahColorado said:


> Sorry you're not yet jiving with the fork. How many rides have you done?
> 
> The ride of coil is different and there are some riders who like the ride of air suspension that's setup very soft, but very rampy at the end - that's not something you can replicate with coil. Coil is more "sporty" and supported in the mid-stroke.
> 
> ...


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Nurse Ben said:


> Three rides, some fast flow, some really ugly miles on scree, some boulder jumping, a few bigger drops, 20+ miles. The small hit compliance is terrible, which is super disappointing. It has plenty of support on big drops.
> 
> I ran the suspension in Cush, then Crush, Cush felt better but still quite firm.
> 
> ...


Can you elaborate on what you mean by small hit compliance? Are you talking about the initial travel or how it moves around at sag? If it's the former, then adding preload won't improve things (as preload raises the force required to initiate travel). If it's the latter than I'm surprised. One of the hallmarks of coil is the impression it moves more freely (especially at high frequency) in it's stroke as a result of less stick-slip (seal turnaround) compared to air systems.

The Smash has a whopping 2.5" more reach and 2º slacker HA than the Fatillac (comparing same sizes), both factors will require you to be more over the front of the bike on anything but steep terrain to get the most of the bike and the front suspension.

Do you have a soft spring or do you need one?


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Hey Noah, I called MRP and spoke to Eric, he thought the same as you, long reach, riding flats, so riding back. He also thought the Smash being more slack would change how the fork responds to force; more resistance to compression. He also considered that I was not able to use the ramp or preload, which suggests the spring is too stiff.

So yeah, a soft spring could be the answer, worse case I get a chance to compare the two.

He's sending me one 

As to the drastic change in geo, yeah, the Fatillac is short, but my other bikes are a longer and I want to ride an even longer reach as I feel likes it's more stable at speed and on landings, and they climb better.

I also ride a Pedalhead which feels amazing at 470mm reach vs 490mm reach on the Smash, but when I measure actual reach (seat to bars), they are nearly the same. I tried a medium Smash and it felt shorter than my large Full Stache.

Thanks for all the help, I'll get there in time.



NoahColorado said:


> Can you elaborate on what you mean by small hit compliance? Are you talking about the initial travel or how it moves around at sag? If it's the former, then adding preload won't improve things (as preload raises the force required to initiate travel). If it's the latter than I'm surprised. One of the hallmarks of coil is the impression it moves more freely (especially at high frequency) in it's stroke as a result of less stick-slip (seal turnaround) compared to air systems.
> 
> The Smash has a whopping 2.5" more reach and 2º slacker HA than the Fatillac (comparing same sizes), both factors will require you to be more over the front of the bike on anything but steep terrain to get the most of the bike and the front suspension.
> 
> Do you have a soft spring or do you need one?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

Question for you Noah. I’ve got a 150 ribbon air on my nimble9 ss and I’m curios as to your thoughts on switching it a coil. I use all but 10 mm of travel on my regular rides with. Main tim with use it all is when I ride schooner trace and couple other trails like it near me 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dracstuart (Sep 3, 2017)

Anyone tried both a ribbon air and a ribbon coil for a while? Major differences once they are well dialed in? My gut is telling me to get a coil, but I'm on a hardtail and I like my bike to be poppy and playful and I've read that might be more suited to the air fork. Wish I could try both forks out on a demo!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Raleighguy29 said:


> Question for you Noah. I've got a 150 ribbon air on my nimble9 ss and I'm curios as to your thoughts on switching it a coil. I use all but 10 mm of travel on my regular rides with. Main tim with use it all is when I ride schooner trace and couple other trails like it near me


I guess it depends on whether you are somehow unhappy with the air? Do you want to use that last 10mm of travel? Have you tried any adjustments to achieve that?

Most hardtail guys seem to go for the air because they want a very progressive setup (since they only have front travel). However, some singlespeeders are drawn to the simplicity and "set and forgetness" of coil.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dracstuart said:


> Anyone tried both a ribbon air and a ribbon coil for a while? Major differences once they are well dialed in? My gut is telling me to get a coil, but I'm on a hardtail and I like my bike to be poppy and playful and I've read that might be more suited to the air fork. Wish I could try both forks out on a demo!!


Coil arguably tracks better and responds to high-frequency hits better (for example, over very long descents it's less fatiguing). The downside is limited external adjustability, added weight, and off-the-top plushness.

Air is lighter, has more external adjustability, and wider tuning range. The downsides are more seals, potentially more service (in reality the recommended intervals are the same air vs. coil, but you can get away with deferred service longer on a coil before performance really drops off), and more complex setup.

For "poppy-ness" I'd give the nod to air. But it's not as though the coil is dead feeling, and you can add preload for a little more pop.


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## dracstuart (Sep 3, 2017)

Solid, thanks for the quick reply Noah. I think you convinced me to get the air, then if I feel like changing it up later or switch the fork to a FS frame I can just do the coil conversion for relatively cheap. 

What ppl have been saying about the customer service on their forks and your responses to this thread makes getting a ribbon a pretty easy decision. Now I just gotta save a little bit more cash and grab one!


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> I guess it depends on whether you are somehow unhappy with the air? Do you want to use that last 10mm of travel? Have you tried any adjustments to achieve that?
> 
> Most hardtail guys seem to go for the air because they want a very progressive setup (since they only have front travel). However, some singlespeeders are drawn to the simplicity and "set and forgetness" of coil.


I'm very happy with the air. I have 2 stages also one in 170 trim on my balance. But I like the idea of one less part to add air to with my single speed

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

One of the things I really like about my Ribbon (air) is the Ramp Control. I ride very varying terrain, from smooth XC to moderate downhill. The Ramp Control lets me keep a very supple fork (with, perhaps, a little too much sag, but the head angle of my Pedalhead is pretty slack, so I seem to get away with it), so that small bump compliance on the smoother stuff is excellent, yet, if I'm riding rougher stuff, I can usually just bump up the ramp control without increasing fork pressure. This is, I believe, one of the big advantages of the air over the coil.

EDIT: Coil has Ramp Control too, so...


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

coil version also has ramp control


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

nikon255 said:


> coil version also has ramp control


Ooops. So it does. I assumed RC only worked with air forks. Guess that pretty much renders my post moot.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

Looks like I’m selling my Ribbon Coil, set at 150mm, medium spring installed, ridden a half dozen times, steerer is cut to 9”, mint condition.

PM with questions.


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## kenwood72 (Sep 16, 2014)

Nurse Ben said:


> Looks like I'm selling my Ribbon Coil, set at 150mm, medium spring installed, ridden three times, steerer is cut to 9", mint condition.
> 
> Looking for cash or trade, Pike 140 or Lyric 140/150. Trades need to be fresh, no junk.
> 
> PM with questions.


Why you selling so fast? Overhyped?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

He ant figure out how to set it up so he’s going back to junk forks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Blatant (Apr 13, 2005)

Why the rush to be a d!ck? Some people don't like the way MRP forks feel. I'm one of those people. I'd take a Lyrik any day, which is what I run on both my personal bikes. It's ok for someone to have an opinion that's different from yours.



Raleighguy29 said:


> He ant figure out how to set it up so he's going back to junk forks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

Yeah be nice, everyone has their own preferences.

Very happy with my air as well. Does sound like he just has the wrong spring though - Air is supposed to be more progressive and I'm using all my travel, if he is not close to using it all with 0 ramp control no wonder its not compliant.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

There's no point in continuing to troubleshoot Nurse Ben's issues if he's selling his Ribbon Coil, but I followed enough to realize that he was having problems. I believe he said he was in the low 200 pound range (I am not searching back to confirm) which is on the heavy side for a medium spring yet he complained of small bump compliance and was interested in a soft spring. Which sounds very wrong to me - 200 pounds is more borderline between medium and firm, and soft should be out of the question. I would suspect a problem with bushings or assembly but who really knows.

Probably got frustrated and punted. Which is fine but doesn't mean that the Ribbon Coil has issues with small bump compliance. This thread is filled with people stating quite the opposite.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

ColinL said:


> Which sounds very wrong to me - 200 pounds is more borderline between medium and firm, and soft should be out of the question.


Don't get hung up on that recommended spring chart. You can take the same rider and put them on 3 different designs of bikes and prefer 3 different setups including different springs. The GG bike NB is on is long. It would be very easy to ride it such that the fork isn't seeing a ton of rider weight and feels overly stiff. It's also possible to ride that front wheel harder and be fine with the recommended spring and maybe even prefer a stiffer spring.

Nobody would buy an air fork and not be willing to adjust the air pressure to suit their riding style/bike design/preferences/etc... But, people buy a coil fork and they don't want to adjust the spring rate??? That doesn't make sense.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I enjoy demo events because I can be hands-on in the setup of a fork, see the rider's position on the bike, get a feel for their ability, and tailor the tuning to best suit them (and that's why demoing coil would be a nightmare, LOL). On the internet all I can do is guess and suggest. I hope it's clear in this thread that we at MRP are very interested in helping customers, we genuinely want everyone to be stoked. But I also recognize that some people have different preferences, so I don't take it personally if someone likes something else more. That said, I have the upmost confidence in the product and its performance. That confidence is formed not only from my personal experience, but also the numerous awards and positive reviews the Ribbon has received. While we have warrantied forks for various issues, the warranty rate is very low - much lower than you might assume if you read this thread (because after all, people who are loving their stuff and riding day in and day out need a special reason to chime in on a thread like this, whereas this is the place to go if you're questioning any aspect of performance).


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

ColinL said:


> There's no point in continuing to troubleshoot Nurse Ben's issues if he's selling his Ribbon Coil, but I followed enough to realize that he was having problems. I believe he said he was in the low 200 pound range (I am not searching back to confirm) which is on the heavy side for a medium spring yet he complained of small bump compliance and was interested in a soft spring. Which sounds very wrong to me - 200 pounds is more borderline between medium and firm, and soft should be out of the question. I would suspect a problem with bushings or assembly but who really knows.
> 
> Probably got frustrated and punted. Which is fine but doesn't mean that the Ribbon Coil has issues with small bump compliance. This thread is filled with people stating quite the opposite.


200lbs on a soft spring? must be seated the entire time they are riding.

again, i'll say that i am about 165lb and ride the firm spring now on a 29" 160mm, with LSC in the low range, medium ramp control, and a medium to high rebound damping for pacific northwest type terrain (steep and fast). i frequently bottomed out the medium spring, even with ramp control maxed and LSC in the mid range. sure the small bump was great with the medium spring, but you have to sacrifice a bit of that suppleness to keep the ride height high which is important when riding the steep and fast stuff. i even still occasionally bottom out the firm spring when riding very aggressively or have an oh **** moment.

the spring chart is just a general guideline, choice of spring is mostly dependent on the terrain you are riding and skill level, not just your weight. the spring chart should probably look more like a triangle than a linear path.

still looking for those damper service instructions... can anyone send them to me?


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I enjoy demo events because I can be hands-on in the setup of a fork, see the rider's position on the bike, get a feel for their ability, and tailor the tuning to best suit them (and that's why demoing coil would be a nightmare, LOL). On the internet all I can do is guess and suggest. I hope it's clear in this thread that we at MRP are very interested in helping customers, we genuinely want everyone to be stoked. But I also recognize that some people have different preferences, so I don't take it personally if someone likes something else more. That said, I have the upmost confidence in the product and its performance. That confidence is formed not only from my personal experience, but also the numerous awards and positive reviews the Ribbon has received. While we have warrantied forks for various issues, the warranty rate is very low - much lower than you might assume if you read this thread (because after all, people who are loving their stuff and riding day in and day out need a special reason to chime in on a thread like this, whereas this is the place to go if you're questioning any aspect of performance).


I am curious if you see more warranties from pacific northwest areas (washington state and BC)?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

spin4spin said:


> I am curious if you see more warranties from pacific northwest areas (washington state and BC)?


I don't think we get that scientific on warranty rates. It'd be hard to put a figure on how many forks total we have in that region. Since we sell the most forks in the mountain west, I presume we see the most warranties from there.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

So yeah, my MRP Ribbon Coil 150mm fork is for sale, steerer is cut to ~9”.

No need for the drama, everyone has their preferences.

PM if interested.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I'm bummed Nurse Ben didn't figure out his fork, but hopefully he finds something that works and someone else gets a deal on the Ribbon. Personally, I've been highly pleased with my coil, now my second. First one was hit in a car accident and had to be replaced. I did a few rides on a Yari and hated the feel. Felt stiffer in a spring since, despite lowering pressure, but more harsh over chattery trails and no where near the traction. It was not confidence inspiring. I was shocked at the difference. 

I think you feel more feedback to the bars on coil, which I wonder of that has to do with negative spring, but the fork is visibly responsive to even the tiniest of bumps and it is so predictable in that response. I noticed such a change in front end confidence, 
that I got my wife a coil.


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

jselwyn said:


> I'm bummed Nurse Ben didn't figure out his fork, but hopefully he finds something that works and someone else gets a deal on the Ribbon. Personally, I've been highly pleased with my coil, now my second. First one was hit in a car accident and had to be replaced. I did a few rides on a Yari and hated the feel. Felt stiffer in a spring since, despite lowering pressure, but more harsh over chattery trails and no where near the traction. It was not confidence inspiring. I was shocked at the difference.
> 
> I think you feel more feedback to the bars on coil, which I wonder of that has to do with negative spring, but the fork is visibly responsive to even the tiniest of bumps and it is so predictable in that response. I noticed such a change in front end confidence,
> that I got my wife a coil.


yari is a crap with its motion control orifice damper. The same with boxxer rc. Not comparable to shimmed damper.


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## Kejsaj (Apr 6, 2010)

Noah, i have a question... How big sag should i have in ribbon coil 170mm? Standard like in other forks 25-35% or do you have another recommendations? 

And one more thing - why i have 32clics of ramp control?


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## rockthreegozy (Jul 1, 2018)

So I am having trouble with my Ribbon Air (150mm, 29). Bought on a new bike and unfortunately had problems from the word go. Traced to loose valve core (or so thought!) For reference I'm about 160lbs

Got around to refitting them yesterday, pumped positive to 65 and negative to 6. Measured exposed stanchion, 160mm approx. Compressed forks a few times, measure exposed stanchion, 150mm approx. Repeat, 140,130 etc!

Dumped all the air out both chambers. +ve filled again. Connected pump to negative, 60psi- odd!? Same shrinking travel issue.

Checked the valve cores were tight. Same issue. Switched the valve cores over, same issue. Tried less -ve by a few psi, same trouble. 

Shock pump is a brand new Topeak with the lockring system. Tried riding the forks rather than a few garden compresses and still the same issues. 

So.... spare Yari went back on, rode today. NO issues. Surely the MRP should be better than these! I think I've exhausted the checks I can/should do before they go back under warranty but open to suggestions!


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

you should pump more in the negative than the possitive. like 10% more. see what happens....


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

rockthreegozy said:


> So I am having trouble with my Ribbon Air (150mm, 29). Bought on a new bike and unfortunately had problems from the word go. Traced to loose valve core (or so thought!) For reference I'm about 160lbs
> 
> Got around to refitting them yesterday, pumped positive to 65 and negative to 6. Measured exposed stanchion, 160mm approx. Compressed forks a few times, measure exposed stanchion, 150mm approx. Repeat, 140,130 etc!
> 
> ...


I observed similar shrinking travel with a Sid fork when I opened the neg valve and compressed the fork with no air in the pos chamber (or something similar, can't recall exactly, but that's the gist). It took several repeated fillings/releases, along with not compressing the fork with the neg valve open, to rectify. So, if you compressed the fork with the valve(s) open, or it did so on it's own when you were replacing valves, it might be similar to whatever happened with the Sid. Probably not, but thought I'd mention it, just in case...


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kejsaj said:


> Noah, i have a question... How big sag should i have in ribbon coil 170mm? Standard like in other forks 25-35% or do you have another recommendations?
> 
> And one more thing - why i have 32clics of ramp control?


Hi, I certainly wouldn't advise 35% - if you're sagging that much, you're likely going to be blowing through travel with coil. Most riders will be more in the 10-25% range max. As well, you should measure the sag in an "attack" position, with near equal weight distributed over the front and rear of the bike (or at least approaching 60 R/40 F %) . Some people even go as far as slightly elevating the back wheel (simulating a descending position).

Total clicks for all adjustments that thread a needle in and out will vary. On those, it's best to count "clicks out" from max to keep track of settings. The quick setup cards included with the Ribbon Coil have indicated 30 clicks of Ramp Control adjustment since about mid-June. The changes to the owner's manual came later. But in any case, as you proceed past 20 clicks out from max the Ramp Control has little discernible effect on stroke. So if you're looking for added bottom-out support, your tuning range should be 0-20 clicks out from max. If you're not, set the adjuster beyond 20 clicks out or all the way open.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rockthreegozy said:


> So I am having trouble with my Ribbon Air (150mm, 29). Bought on a new bike and unfortunately had problems from the word go. Traced to loose valve core (or so thought!) For reference I'm about 160lbs
> 
> Got around to refitting them yesterday, pumped positive to 65 and negative to 6. Measured exposed stanchion, 160mm approx. Compressed forks a few times, measure exposed stanchion, 150mm approx. Repeat, 140,130 etc!
> 
> ...


Sorry you are having trouble.

Just a note, if your fork is not fully extended when you start the fill procedure, you will create pressure in the negative chamber just by filling the positive.

Not sure in what order you are releasing pressure from the chambers, but if you are releasing positive first, that too will influence negative (dropping it as the fork collapses).

Set your positive. Dump your negative. Remove the pump from negative. Depress the PSST valves for a few seconds in case there has been a vacuum built up in there (if this happens, and your fork extends further, return to the positive and top-up the pressure). Then re-install the pump to negative and set to your desired pressure (not exceeding ~10psi more than positive). If your fork is still shrinking after that, there is a seal problem somewhere.


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## powder yeti (May 25, 2015)

Hey Noah, with your expertise of MRP and Pivot bikes, curious about putting a ribbon coil on a large mach 5.5? I do enjoy the lightweight of the fox 36 up front, but experience fork dive when trying to balance the front and rear suspension. When I add air pressure and crank down the LSC to limit fork dive, feels like it gets harsh on repeated hits, braking bumps, and long descents. After reading through this thread, I noticed people talking about being able to ride higher in the travel with the ribbon coil and not having to sacrifice other aspects of the suspension to achieve this. I prefer the set it and forget it approach to suspension, although I know minor tweaks can be very beneficial, especially with all the amazing terrain we have here in Colorado. Thanks for your time and hope your recovery is coming along well!
Cheers!


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

I don't believe the weight difference between a coil and a 36, being fairly close, will be noticeable. The fork is such an upgrade performance wise, that you'd forget about it upon thumping some rocks or roots on your first ride.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

powder yeti said:


> Hey Noah, with your expertise of MRP and Pivot bikes, curious about putting a ribbon coil on a large mach 5.5? I do enjoy the lightweight of the fox 36 up front, but experience fork dive when trying to balance the front and rear suspension. When I add air pressure and crank down the LSC to limit fork dive, feels like it gets harsh on repeated hits, braking bumps, and long descents. After reading through this thread, I noticed people talking about being able to ride higher in the travel with the ribbon coil and not having to sacrifice other aspects of the suspension to achieve this. I prefer the set it and forget it approach to suspension, although I know minor tweaks can be very beneficial, especially with all the amazing terrain we have here in Colorado. Thanks for your time and hope your recovery is coming along well!
> Cheers!


I'm not Noah but think I can weigh in.

I'd ridden the 36 with the Grip (maybe not Grip 2) damper in Moab for a week this year. The MRP coil has been on my trail/AM bike all this season.

Weight is a wash.

Suspension feel and damping - both are very good. IMO I think there is a bigger difference with air vs coil out back rather than front. Not sure why that is.

The MRP coil has been trouble free. Bomb-proof. Set and forget. That means a whole lot to me. I seem to have bad luck with air springs with regard to reliability/durability. Really bad luck. For that reason I like the coil.


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## powder yeti (May 25, 2015)

Thanks for your replies jselwyn and Miker J! I’m more interested in being able ride higher in the travel without sacrificing feel or damping, and wondering if this can be achieved with an MRP coil? I would agree that weight is a wash, I’m willing to add 200 grams in return for a sweeter ride. Meaning miminal fork dive and not having major arm pump after long descents.


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## jselwyn (Mar 14, 2012)

powder yeti said:


> Thanks for your replies jselwyn and Miker J! I'm more interested in being able ride higher in the travel without sacrificing feel or damping, and wondering if this can be achieved with an MRP coil? I would agree that weight is a wash, I'm willing to add 200 grams in return for a sweeter ride. Meaning miminal fork dive and not having major arm pump after long descents.


You will love the Ribbon Coil, in that case. I struggled with my 34 factory. It always seemed to dive too much, especially under braking into chunky sections or dealing with holes at slow speeds. Aired up to prevent this made it harsh over chatter or difficult to bottom, despite zero tokens.

Coil remedies these issues. It has also made LSC and Ramp/progression far more functional to actual trail conditions since you are now turning to a specific feature (park day, big drop trail, super steep, slow and tech, etc) instead of a response to every time you hit the brakes (diving).


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## GlazedHam (Jan 14, 2004)

Howdy, I mostly ride a 160mm Pike but find myself in need of a 29er 120mm fork for trail/xc application ...will replace a Reba. There's a lot of talk on this thread about bigger travel settings and coil, but can anyone share thier experiences in a 120 29 air setting? BTW, I am 165lbs, ride mostly rocky/ledgey up and down and really, really like to constantly tweak my gear for optimum performance both during and between rides ...pages and pages of notes on various settings ...so all setup does worry me.


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## rockthreegozy (Jul 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry you are having trouble.
> 
> Just a note, if your fork is not fully extended when you start the fill procedure, you will create pressure in the negative chamber just by filling the positive.
> 
> ...


Thanks Noah. Tried that, several times and no better sadly. Think there might be rebound issues at play as they feel a bit sluggish (off the bike) while trouble shooting. Time to get them looked at I think!


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## pepsican (Jul 2, 2008)

GlazedHam said:


> Howdy, I mostly ride a 160mm Pike but find myself in need of a 29er 120mm fork for trail/xc application ...will replace a Reba. There's a lot of talk on this thread about bigger travel settings and coil, but can anyone share thier experiences in a 120 29 air setting? BTW, I am 165lbs, ride mostly rocky/ledgey up and down and really, really like to constantly tweak my gear for optimum performance both during and between rides ...pages and pages of notes on various settings ...so all setup does worry me.


I have my air set to 130mm on my trail and its great. I'm the same weight and the starting pressures on the card were already about perfect for me. I'd probably do the same settings for 120 with a little more RC.


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## rmanalan (Aug 19, 2017)

What are these little nubs the Ribbon Coil?


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

You know what's great about riding a Ribbon Coil? No more arm pump. I'm about 185# geared up and am running the medium spring. Used to be on a long, rough descent I'd get pretty good pump ('cause I'm old and weak) - always thought it was due to constant braking... but apparently it was due to my fork being not so good.

Did Monarch Crest -> Starvation this past weekend, and everybody was lamenting the arm-pump at the bottom of Starvation. I didn't have any to speak of. And the Ribbon is the only difference in the equation.

It doesn't *feel* particularly "plush" - but it definitely is... 

I'm sold.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

rmanalan said:


> What are these little nubs the Ribbon Coil?
> 
> View attachment 1214046


Those are the "PSST" valves they mention on the Coil (and air) page. You press the little nubs to open the valves, which equalizes pressure in the lowers with the atmosphere. Less of an issue on XC-type rides (slow or no altitude change) vs. lift or shuttle served bike parks (rapid and large alt change.)


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

powder yeti said:


> Thanks for your replies jselwyn and Miker J! I'm more interested in being able ride higher in the travel without sacrificing feel or damping, and wondering if this can be achieved with an MRP coil? I would agree that weight is a wash, I'm willing to add 200 grams in return for a sweeter ride. Meaning miminal fork dive and not having major arm pump after long descents.


That's exactly what I was looking for and found in the Ribbon Coil. Hours of riding in the bike park braking bumps and my hands feel fine.

No diving on steep rock rolls.

Can't really ask for much more.


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## nibb (Feb 20, 2016)

is there a service manual/video for the ribbon coil or can anyone tell me how to do it?


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

nibb said:


> is there a service manual/video for the ribbon coil or can anyone tell me how to do it?


Contact MRP via email, and ask for the service PDF's. They'll email them to you.

You can also check out older vids of other MRP forks- a lot of the internals haven't changed much, so you may still find what you need to know...


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## tangaroo (Jul 17, 2012)

Is anyone having there preload screw back out on them every few rides? I’ve tried loctite on the threads but it’s not actually loosening up there, it’s physically backing out the preload.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

rmanalan said:


> What are these little nubs the Ribbon Coil?
> 
> View attachment 1214046


It's the elegant MRP equivalent of the FOX and RockShox 'squeeze a zip-tie down the seals to burp the lowers' solution.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

...


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

spin4spin said:


> Is anyone having there preload screw back out on them every few rides? I've tried loctite on the threads but it's not actually loosening up there, it's physically backing out the preload.


yes this happens to me. only started happening when i changed to the firm spring.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

powder yeti said:


> Thanks for your replies jselwyn and Miker J! I'm more interested in being able ride higher in the travel without sacrificing feel or damping, and wondering if this can be achieved with an MRP coil? I would agree that weight is a wash, I'm willing to add 200 grams in return for a sweeter ride. Meaning miminal fork dive and not having major arm pump after long descents.


Sorry for the late reply, I'm just back from an off-the-grid vacation.

You sound like a perfect coil candidate, honestly. I don't have much more to add than that!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

tangaroo said:


> Is anyone having there preload screw back out on them every few rides? I've tried loctite on the threads but it's not actually loosening up there, it's physically backing out the preload.


Interesting. Hadn't heard of that before. Are you running a bit of preload? One solution might be to install the preload shim to reduce the friction between the coil and top. I'll relay this info to engineering.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Well, Ive been running the Ribbon Coil for a couple of months now. 220# rider geared up, 160 mm travel, 65 deg HA on a banshee rune. First I ran the medium spring with full preload, felt awesome on rock gardens but when trail turned steep and fast it rode too low in its travel and felt sketchy. Switched to firm spring with no preload, feels great on steep stuff, superb in the bike park...but aaaaalmost too firm, can feel a bit harsh on average trails. Seems like a spring in between would feel perfect, especially if i lost just a few pounds which im trying to do. Seems like theres a gap in supportiveness between max preload med spring and no preload firm spring, so if for your weight your ideal spring rate is in that gap you have to accept either a too soft ride or a slightly too firm ride (firmer is better). 
Noah, please offer a more comprehensive spring range, especially a "medium-firm". This is not just directed at mrp but all coil fork makers. I had this same problem years ago with the Totem. I dont get it- for coil rear shocks there is a range of 6-10 closely overlapping springs, to cover any rider weight and leverage ratio. Forks, which are even more important for how the bike rides, get just 5. When a fork is a thousand dollars anyone should be able to tune it reasonably perfectly for their weight, coil or air. Baffling.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dwyooaj said:


> Noah, please offer a more comprehensive spring range, especially a "medium-firm". This is not just directed at mrp but all coil fork makers.


I hear you.


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## tangaroo (Jul 17, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Interesting. Hadn't heard of that before. Are you running a bit of preload? One solution might be to install the preload shim to reduce the friction between the coil and top. I'll relay this info to engineering.


Noah, I'm running the light spring with the spacer installed and 3 turns of preload. Usually by the 3rd or 4th ride, preload has backed all the way out.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

tangaroo said:


> Noah, I'm running the light spring with the spacer installed and 3 turns of preload. Usually by the 3rd or 4th ride, preload has backed all the way out.


Adding the preload spacer is roughly equivalent to two turns of preload. It might prevent the backing out or at least get you closer to your preferred setting if it does back out (a one rotation difference vs. 3). Of course we'll look into fixes for this.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> I hear you.


so...is a spring between med and firm in the works?


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## powder yeti (May 25, 2015)

Thanks Noah, glad you were able to enjoy some peace and quiet being off the grid! And thanks to everyone for their comments and advice on pulling the coil trigger! The Ribbon Coil is awesome!!! Rides just like others have stated, high in the travel, firm when it needs to be and eats up everything on the trail! I’m 190-195 riding weight, medium spring, 8 clicks of ramp from full open, 6 clicks of rebound from full open, and then adjust low speed depending on trail conditions. Usually 2-4 clicks when riding all mountain and 5-7 clicks when I’ve used chairlift assist. Rode 35+ miles at Trestle Bike Park 2 days ago and wow, wanted to keep riding if the weather hadn’t rolled in. In previous experiences with my fox 36, after long descents, arm pump was pretty noticeable. The coil absorbs everything so well, my arms and back are much less fatigued than ever before. What’s even better, is the faster I go, the smoother it rides! Love supporting Colorado, MRP for making awesome products and Moontime in Edwards for hooking it up, cheers everyone!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dwyooaj said:


> so...is a spring between med and firm in the works?


I'll certainly advocate for that.


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## jasec79 (Jun 9, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> Adding the preload spacer is roughly equivalent to two turns of preload. It might prevent the backing out or at least get you closer to your preferred setting if it does back out (a one rotation difference vs. 3). Of course we'll look into fixes for this.


I'm having the same issue. Backed out about 1 1/2 turns on my ride yesterday (it was a bigger ride tho-24 miles and 5000+ vertical). I'm running 2 1/2-3 turns preload on a soft spring set at 170 travel. I may try and install the preload washer to see if that helps but it's not a huge issue since it's only backing out around a turn or so per ride. I'm just going to plan to check/reset it before every ride I suppose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Does MRP make a fender for the Ribbon? I recently put on a Michelin Wild Rock'R2 and the amount of $h1t that tire throws back at me is LEGENDARY. 

Would like to find a nice, solid fender to keep the detritus out of my face.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

SkaredShtles said:


> Does MRP make a fender for the Ribbon? I recently put on a Michelin Wild Rock'R2 and the amount of $h1t that tire throws back at me is LEGENDARY.
> 
> Would like to find a nice, solid fender to keep the detritus out of my face.












There are many of this ^^^ style of plastic sheet fender available in all sorts of sizes, colours and designs. They work pretty well.










You could also use a Mudhugger front fender if you wanted more coverage. They offer different lengths.

If MRP offered a decent sized fender that went *over top* of the fork brace so it didn't eat up any of the room inside the arch for big tires I would be all over that!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Something that attaches to the bridge that doesn't need to be ziptied would be nice.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

SkaredShtles said:


> Does MRP make a fender for the Ribbon? I recently put on a Michelin Wild Rock'R2 and the amount of $h1t that tire throws back at me is LEGENDARY.
> 
> Would like to find a nice, solid fender to keep the detritus out of my face.


Mucky Nutz fender works well.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Something that attaches to the bridge that doesn't need to be ziptied would be nice.


agreed, but no bosses in the bridge. the mucky nutz is at least slotted to use velcro straps. easy to get on and off. works well. only a couple spots where it marrs the finish. not ideal but works well.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Just got my 150mm Ribbon Coil! Any quick advice on break-in/initial settings? I'm 160 and had the soft spring installed to start. Riding a mix of New England chunder and slow tech. Thanks!


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Kaparzo said:


> Just got my 150mm Ribbon Coil! Any quick advice on break-in/initial settings? I'm 160 and had the soft spring installed to start. Riding a mix of New England chunder and slow tech. Thanks!


I'm the same weight and same spring. I used the recommended rebound setting and that's been working well in the PNW chunder and tech. I vary the compression and ramp control based on the terrain that I'm riding.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

I’ve got a few months of riding on my Ribbon coil, and have also been riding a different bike with a Pike RCT3, with upgraded debonair air spring. The Ribbon is really an impressive fork. The tracking and stability through chunky stuff is head and shoulders above the pike. 

Though I’ve run into a problem. After changing the spring, I only have 5-6 clicks of adjustment on the rebound knob. Has anyone else run into this? Solutions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

After several days of riding in Sedona on the MRP Ribbon Air all there is to say is:

I think MRP nailed it with this one. I'm ~240lbs and was riding 95-100 psi pos with the neg ~10% higher in pressure. No or just a few clicks of Ramp (basically nothing) and about 2 clicks compression damping. Rebound somewhere in the middle.
Awesome fork.
:thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

C-H said:


> After several days of riding in Sedona on the MRP Ribbon Air all there is to say is:
> 
> I think MRP nailed it with this one. I'm ~240lbs and was riding 95-100 psi pos with the neg ~10% higher in pressure. No or just a few clicks of Ramp (basically nothing) and about 2 clicks compression damping. Rebound somewhere in the middle.
> Awesome fork.
> :thumbsup:


Nice! I'm jonesing for some Sedona riding - hoping to go at Thanksgiving.


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

Hey guys. Recently picked up a used Ribbon air and have some questions that maybe you can answer. 

1) Small bump compliance is a bit lacking compared to my heavily upgraded RS Revelation (damper, air spring and seals upgraded). I had some trouble with stiction that was remedied by performing a lower leg service (with liberal amounts of slick honey on the seals) and dropping the pressure quite a lot. I've heard that air pressure is really key to dialing the fork and I have a feeling that my shock pump simply isn't accurate enough. What shock pump can you guys recommend? 

2) My Hope hub doesn't really sit flush in the fork, it's as if the dropouts are just slightly wider than the hub. Is this something that you guys have encountered? 

Otherwise, I'm really pleased with the fork, it is much more composed during heavy hits than the Rev. but I'm not really a heavy hitter and would like a slightly more plush feeling.


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

fr0sty said:


> Hey guys. Recently picked up a used Ribbon air and have some questions that maybe you can answer.
> 
> 1) Small bump compliance is a bit lacking compared to my heavily upgraded RS Revelation (damper, air spring and seals upgraded). I had some trouble with stiction that was remedied by performing a lower leg service (with liberal amounts of slick honey on the seals) and dropping the pressure quite a lot. I've heard that air pressure is really key to dialing the fork and I have a feeling that my shock pump simply isn't accurate enough. What shock pump can you guys recommend?
> 
> ...


For small bump compliance, I find higher negative pressure helpful. I use 10psi more in the negative than the positive, and I use less pressure in the positive than the charts call for- 130mm travel on a hardtail, I'm 160ish pounds, and use 65 in pos, 75 in negative. This yields a bit more sag than is often deemed optimal, but I like it this way for smaller bumps, where a little extra extension into little dips seems to help. To prevent bottom out, I dial up ramp control as needed per terrain.

It's often recommended to use a digital shock pump, for greater accuracy. I've been using my standard analog pump with no problems, which is probably only accurate to a pound in either direction.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

fr0sty said:


> Hey guys. Recently picked up a used Ribbon air and have some questions that maybe you can answer.
> 
> 1) Small bump compliance is a bit lacking compared to my heavily upgraded RS Revelation (damper, air spring and seals upgraded). I had some trouble with stiction that was remedied by performing a lower leg service (with liberal amounts of slick honey on the seals) and dropping the pressure quite a lot. I've heard that air pressure is really key to dialing the fork and I have a feeling that my shock pump simply isn't accurate enough. What shock pump can you guys recommend?
> 
> ...


Have you measured the hub and width of the fork at the dropouts? Obviously if the hub is undersized or the fork is splayed that would work against stiction and sensitivity.

If that checks out, and you haven't already, lube the air spring piston as well. That usually helps too.

And, as mentioned above, we recommend varying the pressure of the negative vs. positive spring with slightly more in the the former (up to 10psi).


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> Have you measured the hub and width of the fork at the dropouts? Obviously if the hub is undersized or the fork is splayed that would work against stiction and sensitivity.
> 
> If that checks out, and you haven't already, lube the air spring piston as well. That usually helps too.
> 
> And, as mentioned above, we recommend varying the pressure of the negative vs. positive spring with slightly more in the the former (up to 10psi).


Hey Noah,

Yeah I did measure and it is maybe .1 of a mm wider than the hub (ie not really noticable, but I only have a ruler). The thing is that the "shelf" for the hub is very shallow on one side. It fits ok when things are completely still but as soon as stuff starts moving the hub slides up from the dropouts. It's not a big deal, just makes changing wheel a bit more of a hassle than it needs to be.


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

re: small bump.

What travel are you running the Ribbon at? The design of the Ribbon air spring is such that the longer extension you have the smaller the negative volume gets. This is the opposite of what you want, really, akin to DebonAir or Luftkappe and EVOL springs where larger negative springs are sought. So if you're at 160mm or something you will be far from optimal in terms of the negative spring and small bump compliance as well as mid stroke support.

_MK


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

^^Are we talking about some initial seal/ wiper stiction that needs breaking in? I’m all for the best seal and durability even if it includes some initial break in.


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

MK_ said:


> re: small bump.
> 
> What travel are you running the Ribbon at? The design of the Ribbon air spring is such that the longer extension you have the smaller the negative volume gets. This is the opposite of what you want, really, akin to DebonAir or Luftkappe and EVOL springs where larger negative springs are sought. So if you're at 160mm or something you will be far from optimal in terms of the negative spring and small bump compliance as well as mid stroke support.
> 
> _MK


Running the 29er fork at 150mm travel.

I don't think that it is initial seal wiper stiction as the fork is used.


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## MK_ (Nov 15, 2004)

Yeah, I think running it at 150mm is less then optimal in terms of negative volume. This is my opinion though. 

_MK


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

I'll share some ribbon coil user happiness.

I've had it about three weeks, the first week was with the med spring, I'm 73kg. The fork is set at 160mm, I could have lived with the med spring but I'm glad I tried the soft spring, The fork has been nothing but buttery smooth, you really notice that it sits higher in its travel even though it sucks up the chuck way smoother than the fox 34 it replace, it spends way more time between 0-60% rather than 40-80% of its travel.
The fork is great everywhere but amazingly controlled through high speed chuck!

It's got me thinking about the rear end now as that comes across a little wallowy compared to the front.


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Question, bought a Ribbon air 130mm about 3 months ago

I know you can change travel on it. Can I go out to 160 on a fork I bought preset at 130mm? Didn’t know if I could or
Not based on the instructions.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

derek1387 said:


> Question, bought a Ribbon air 130mm about 3 months ago
> 
> I know you can change travel on it. Can I go out to 160 on a fork I bought preset at 130mm? Didn't know if I could or
> Not based on the instructions.


You should be able to change travel by taking out the spacers in the air shaft. Instructions are on the MRP website. Pretty straight forward.


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Ok. I knew I could extend the travel. Just didn’t know if i could go out that far 

Taking it off a XC hardtail and putting on a SB5.5


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

derek1387 said:


> Question, bought a Ribbon air 130mm about 3 months ago
> 
> I know you can change travel on it. Can I go out to 160 on a fork I bought preset at 130mm? Didn't know if I could or
> Not based on the instructions.


If your fork originally came at 130mm, then you can extend it to 150mm.

27.5+ / 29" forks built at 120 - 140mm can be extended to 150mm max
27.5+ / 29" forks built at 150 or 160mm can be extended to 160mm max
27.5" forks of all travel lengths can go to 170mm max


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> If your fork originally came at 130mm, then you can extend it to 150mm.
> 
> 27.5+ / 29" forks built at 120 - 140mm can be extended to 150mm max
> 27.5+ / 29" forks built at 150 or 160mm can be extended to 160mm max
> 27.5" forks of all travel lengths can go to 170mm max


Similar question. fork came in at 140mm. Can you I go down to 120mm?

Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

adagioca said:


> Similar question. fork came in at 140mm. Can you I go down to 120mm?
> 
> Thanks!


Yeah, you can go down to 115mm if you want (that's the shortest I've tested).


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## adagioca (Apr 28, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, you can go down to 115mm if you want (that's the shortest I've tested).


OK, I did not see any reducers/spacers in the box. Is this something you can provide? I also sent an email out this morning about just this.


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## CT_Braston (Jul 1, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, you can go down to 115mm if you want (that's the shortest I've tested).


Hey Noah, a 160 29'r Ribbon air should be ok to 125 mm right? I had 35 mm of travel reducer spacers in the box with my fork.


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## tangaroo (Jul 17, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Adding the preload spacer is roughly equivalent to two turns of preload. It might prevent the backing out or at least get you closer to your preferred setting if it does back out (a one rotation difference vs. 3). Of course we'll look into fixes for this.


Hey Noah, any update on this? Preload still backs out to zero after every couple rides.


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## derek1387 (Oct 13, 2008)

Daaaang. Then it wouldn’t work on an SB5.5 at 160mm

Sad panda.


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## mactheknife (Feb 25, 2018)

Another happy Ribbon user here. It has taken a fair bit of time for me to get my hands on a Ribbon Coil here in the UK but the wait has been well worth it.

Only had 2 long rides on it but they were in challenging conditions, steep, techy, lots going on etc. I now know exactly how an amazing fork should feel.

So so composed on the steep stuff, supportive yet supple. I am in love.

I think i need a Hazzard now


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## JasonL (Nov 18, 2011)

If any one is looking for a decent deal on a Ribbon 29 air I have one up for sale that came on a used bike that I bought. Shoot me a PM if interested.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2452185/


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## elcap23 (Sep 14, 2011)

So I just put a 160mm Ribbon Coil on my Yeti Sb5.5 and am blown away. This is replacing the Fox 36 Fit4 that came with the bike. I've never felt the Fox 36 worled all that well, especially with small bump compliance. But the Ribbon Coil is buttery smooth, and still has the support deep into the travel. I also love the Ramp control...being able to crank it up for bigger lines or back it off something more mellow. 

Stats:
6'5" 195 Lbs. Medium Spring. 29er. 
Tahoe area Riding.


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## urmb (Oct 4, 2005)

Sorry not adding much to this thread, but just wanted to comment. I am tired of maintaining my Pike and the continued decline in performance, so I have been fork shopping. Was getting close to ordering a DVO Diamond, but always hoped some company would step up and build a new, well designed, coil oil . I crossed the coil oil Rubicon with my first Marzocchi Bomber 1998. Still have three old Marzocchis coil oil shocks from the golden days of that company that still work. However the best fork can still be second class without excellent tech support. The unusual support on this forum from NoahColorado and users is priceless. Noah, you sold another fork. 


urmb


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Curveball said:


> I'm the same weight and same spring. I used the recommended rebound setting and that's been working well in the PNW chunder and tech. I vary the compression and ramp control based on the terrain that I'm riding.


Cool, good to know, just breaking it in now. Do you run any preload?

More general question, does the ramp control affect ride height or fork movement early in the travel?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Kaparzo said:


> More general question, does the ramp control affect ride height or fork movement early in the travel?


As far as I can tell, no.


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## RyanJP (Apr 10, 2017)

I just converted my Ribbon Air 27.5 170mm to coil. It's definitely as smooth as I expected, but the spring rattles like a chainlink fence. Anybody else experience this? What did I do wrong? I followed the video to the T.

Thanks y'all


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

RyanJP said:


> I just converted my Ribbon Air 27.5 170mm to coil. It's definitely as smooth as I expected, but the spring rattles like a chainlink fence. Anybody else experience this? What did I do wrong? I followed the video to the T.
> 
> Thanks y'all


I'm not sure if the conversion kit comes with grease but I know when I changed my med spring for the soft spring the first heavy grease I used was no good. It was very loud with some strange spring noise when the fork was compressed. I cleaned it out and used some Super Lube Multi-Purpose Grease and it's now perfectly silent so the type of grease does matter somewhat. Not saying that's the perfect grease but it was all I had at the time that worked. It's nice and clear in color as well.


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## RyanJP (Apr 10, 2017)

RaymondC said:


> I'm not sure if the conversion kit comes with grease but I know when I changed my med spring for the soft spring the first heavy grease I used was no good. It was very loud with some strange spring noise when the fork was compressed. I cleaned it out and used some Super Lube Multi-Purpose Grease and it's now perfectly silent so the type of grease does matter somewhat. Not saying that's the perfect grease but it was all I had at the time that worked. It's nice and clear in color as well.


It did come with a little packet of Slick Honey, which is what I used. I also have some marine grease and other synthetic Park/Finish Line stuff, I guess I'll just have to open'er up again and play with it. Slick Honey was probably not the best choice... but it was the closest.


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

RyanJP said:


> It did come with a little packet of Slick Honey, which is what I used. I also have some marine grease and other synthetic Park/Finish Line stuff, I guess I'll just have to open'er up again and play with it. Slick Honey was probably not the best choice... but it was the closest.


That will be the problem if you put slick honey on the spring, that's for the wiper seals. Get a good amount of marine grease all over the spring and you should be good.


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

RaymondC said:


> That will be the problem if you put slick honey on the spring, that's for the wiper seals. Get a good amount of marine grease all over the spring and you should be good.


Slick honey is totally fine on the air spring shaft and seals. That's what MRP uses and recommends that you use in the service and travel changes on the springs.

You will want to add some marine grease or even better some PM600 Military liquid o-ring grease to the coil spring when yuou get a chance to open it back up.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

RyanJP said:


> It did come with a little packet of Slick Honey, which is what I used. I also have some marine grease and other synthetic Park/Finish Line stuff, I guess I'll just have to open'er up again and play with it. Slick Honey was probably not the best choice... but it was the closest.


Yeah, the Slick Honey included is for the wiper seals when you re-install them. You'll want to use a much thicker grease for the spring, like a marine grease. That should solve the rattling.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kaparzo said:


> Cool, good to know, just breaking it in now. Do you run any preload?
> 
> More general question, does the ramp control affect ride height or fork movement early in the travel?


No. Ramp Control only affects the late stroke, pretty much just bottom-out. Picture the air in the your lowers as a spring. It's ambient pressure (unless you've got built up pressure in there, in which case the PSST valves need actuation), only its near total compression will provide a support effect. Ramp Control closed or open = you're getting that effect or not, respectively.


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## mike156 (Jul 10, 2017)

fr0sty said:


> I've heard that air pressure is really key to dialing the fork and I have a feeling that my shock pump simply isn't accurate enough. What shock pump can you guys recommend?


I was using a RS pump for a couple years and always found my 2014 Pike worked reasonably well at 60psi on that pump. I thought it was a bit too stiff, but the 60psi kept me from going lower as it already seemed crazy low.

I bought a Cane Creek digital pump last fall and was just curious to see how they compared. Hooked it up and found ~100psi was the actual pressure. I'm now running 80psi (right inline with the recommended pressures) and it rides better than ever. That crappy RS pump was 40psi off and for a couple years screwed with me on setting up the bike. Found the same with tire pressure, analog guage was telling me 24psi, digital was like 28psi.

You can flat out ignore what your gauges are telling you (comparing to others) and just tune the bike by feel. The gauges are usually fairly repeatable, so even though 60psi was really 100psi, as long as I set it to 60psi on that guage, it always rode the same way. But when people throw out numbers that seem pretty far off any more, I pretty much assume they are just using a crappy gauge. How many pike threads are on here recommending like 50psi??? I would put money on it just being bad gauges and they are probably more in the 80psi range.


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## RyanJP (Apr 10, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> Yeah, the Slick Honey included is for the wiper seals when you re-install them. You'll want to use a much thicker grease for the spring, like a marine grease. That should solve the rattling.


Indeed it did, I just finished putting it back together. No rattle now! Gonna go shred and see if I need the soft spring or stick with the medium now.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Any Ribbon Coil riders who are in the soft spring bracket but elected to switch to the medium? Weigh in at around 165 (on a 150mm 29er) and ride pretty aggressive lines. Trail riding is pretty nice, it bottoms pretty easily on drops and doesn't feel composed enough at speed. Feels like I'm adjusting settings to compensate instead of to fine tune ride quality. RampControl is almost all the way dialed in.


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

Kaparzo said:


> Any Ribbon Coil riders who are in the soft spring bracket but elected to switch to the medium? Weigh in at around 165 (on a 150mm 29er) and ride pretty aggressive lines. Trail riding is pretty nice, it bottoms pretty easily on drops and doesn't feel composed enough at speed. Feels like I'm adjusting settings to compensate instead of to fine tune ride quality. RampControl is almost all the way dialed in.


Im started with the medium, opposite experience... ride was buttery smooth, but i was not using all travel, only 60-70%...soft spring was the way to go.. I'm 180lbs but on a 170mm 27.5 bike.. I wonder if you are oversprung in the rear ? at your weight you might be on the soft spring... however, HTA plays a role and of course how aggressive you ride. dont be afraid to use the med spring, coil ride quality will be there even if you are slightly oversprung for your weight.cheers


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kaparzo said:


> Any Ribbon Coil riders who are in the soft spring bracket but elected to switch to the medium? Weigh in at around 165 (on a 150mm 29er) and ride pretty aggressive lines. Trail riding is pretty nice, it bottoms pretty easily on drops and doesn't feel composed enough at speed. Feels like I'm adjusting settings to compensate instead of to fine tune ride quality. RampControl is almost all the way dialed in.


I'm 200lbs ready to ride on medium spring [stock preload] with 150mm 29er Ribbon Coil I've got the LSC wide open and the RC maybe 1/4 from full open. Fork feels pretty nice. I'll dial in some LSC & RC for particularly burly descents, but most of the time I leave the fork open.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

I stated earlier in this thread that on my first few rides, the medium spring felt too firm and had very little small bump compliance so I switched to the soft spring. After a few rides and leaving the bike turned upside down over night a few times between rides, the soft spring was much too soft so I switched back to the medium. The last couple rides with the medium were ok until I started hitting jumps on the trail. Even with full ramp control I was bottoming out. I needed over 6 clicks of low speed compression to keep the fork composed enough to not bottom out on small jumps, not to mention I was running more sag than I would have liked even with full preload. Installed the Firm spring and now have 20% sag with only a few turns of preload. Now with full ramp control and no low speed compression I can bang off small jumps without bottoming so I think this is the spring for my weight. Small bump compliance is retained as well. This is on a hardtail. Fork is set to 140mm. 

TLDR: 190 lbs. on the firm spring. This fork needs time to break in. Make sure you turn the fork upside down and leave over night a few times. Dont be afraid to try different springs. Hope this helps.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Geometry of your bike, the trails you ride, your position on the bike, and how you ride are all huge factors. For an air spring that's why you can't meaningfully reference some else's pressure setting except in broad strokes. 

For a coil there should really only be two possible springs to use, unless you source a custom spring to try to split the difference between two options that MRP offers. A while back I think Noah had mentioned looking into a spring in between medium and firm.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

FYI without the heat shrink wrap I am able to remove/install the firm spring via the top cap. Not sure if thats the case with soft and medium springs too. No rattling noise without the wrap either. This would make spring changes much easier if it works with soft/medium springs too.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Those with coil front + rear. How much of the playful sensation of an air spring is lost? Do you just have to work harder to pop the bike around?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

phazedalx said:


> Those with coil front + rear. How much of the playful sensation of an air spring is lost? Do you just have to work harder to pop the bike around?


For me none of it is lost. Lot of has to do with how you tune it. My balance has raze rear and just installed ribbon coil. Had 2 days in Duluth on it. And heading to pisgah for 3-4 days of old school gnar shredding. My ribbon replaced a 170 stage

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tvilleguy (Apr 14, 2018)

Hey guys. I've got a Ribbon coil 160mm 29er that I converted from an air from new (I'm in Australia, and was waiting over 12 weeks for a coil set to arrive due to shortages so did the conversion from air to get the bike built). I'm about 95kg ready to ride, and have a firm spring installed... bike is an Evil Wreckoning. Been on it almost 5 months now and have a strange issue that is starting to become troublesome. The first time it happened I was out of town on a biking holiday... and it literally occurred overnight. Before I left town, was riding at my local park, no issues, doing decent sized drops (5ft), jumps, big rock gardens etc with no issues. First day of holidays, I went off a small drop, maybe 2 feet high and the fork bottomed out completely. Thought that was wierd so checked all the dials, turned RC to max, then went off the drop again and it bottomed out again. Ramp control had no effect at either extreme. There was almost no resistence on compression and I thought I'd broken the spring. Feeling kind of came back later that arvo so I continued to ride hoping that was a one off event as I'd driven 5 hours to get to this park. The next day, my fork didn't feel right... was on a flow trail the next day, went off a 3ft drop, fork didn't compress, sent me over the bars. After that I pretty much rode very gingerly and avoided anything jumpy, droppy or technical... the fork damping felt fine, except now I only had about 70mm of travel. Weekend kinda ruined because of this, I got home pulled the lowers off and removed the coil, all looked fine. Gave the spring another hit of grease, did a lower leg service, reassembled the bike and it felt buttery smooth again, full travel, I thought all was good. When this happened I would be lucky to of had 20 hours of riding time on the brand new bike. Anyways, again yesterday, the stiction of the forks seems to be getting 'notchy'. I did notice this stiction happening just before the last episode happened and I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this issue before I give up and go buy another set of forks... coz when these coils are working properly they're amazing.
So I calculated that I'm probably around 20 hours riding time again since last service. The spring is coated in blue marine grease as recommended, seals have slick honey on them and the fork bath oil is yamaha 5wt.
Any ideas?? Could it be a bad damper? Something on the spring side? There's not really much else in these forks such as air seals etc that can screw up.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

Tvilleguy said:


> Hey guys. I've got a Ribbon coil 160mm 29er that I converted from an air from new (I'm in Australia, and was waiting over 12 weeks for a coil set to arrive due to shortages so did the conversion from air to get the bike built). I'm about 95kg ready to ride, and have a firm spring installed... bike is an Evil Wreckoning. Been on it almost 5 months now and have a strange issue that is starting to become troublesome. The first time it happened I was out of town on a biking holiday... and it literally occurred overnight. Before I left town, was riding at my local park, no issues, doing decent sized drops (5ft), jumps, big rock gardens etc with no issues. First day of holidays, I went off a small drop, maybe 2 feet high and the fork bottomed out completely. Thought that was wierd so checked all the dials, turned RC to max, then went off the drop again and it bottomed out again. Ramp control had no effect at either extreme. There was almost no resistence on compression and I thought I'd broken the spring. Feeling kind of came back later that arvo so I continued to ride hoping that was a one off event as I'd driven 5 hours to get to this park. The next day, my fork didn't feel right... was on a flow trail the next day, went off a 3ft drop, fork didn't compress, sent me over the bars. After that I pretty much rode very gingerly and avoided anything jumpy, droppy or technical... the fork damping felt fine, except now I only had about 70mm of travel. Weekend kinda ruined because of this, I got home pulled the lowers off and removed the coil, all looked fine. Gave the spring another hit of grease, did a lower leg service, reassembled the bike and it felt buttery smooth again, full travel, I thought all was good. When this happened I would be lucky to of had 20 hours of riding time on the brand new bike. Anyways, again yesterday, the stiction of the forks seems to be getting 'notchy'. I did notice this stiction happening just before the last episode happened and I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this issue before I give up and go buy another set of forks... coz when these coils are working properly they're amazing.
> So I calculated that I'm probably around 20 hours riding time again since last service. The spring is coated in blue marine grease as recommended, seals have slick honey on them and the fork bath oil is yamaha 5wt.
> Any ideas?? Could it be a bad damper? Something on the spring side? There's not really much else in these forks such as air seals etc that can screw up.


I took heat shrink wrap off my spring and it seems to have less stiction. As for bottoming out, well, its a coil fork and the end stroke ramp up will never be as good as an air fork. I bottom my fork out frequently too with ramp control maxed.


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## Tvilleguy (Apr 14, 2018)

I was going to remove the heatshrink next service... the travel o-ring deteriorated and fell off a couple weeks ago so waiting for new ones to arrive and then I'll do the service.
As for the bottoming out... apart from what I said above with it bottoming out on a 2 foot drop (which it shouldn't)... I've rarely bottomed it out... 2 instances I know of were both huck to flats... one about 5 feet and another about 8 feet vertical height... the 8 foot one was an accident... I hadn't done it before and completely missed the transition after the drop. General riding though... can't say I notice it bottoming.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Something sounds very wrong. Coils are usually straight forward affairs so it's unlikely that unless there is some sort of displacing spacer (I've never been inside a Ribbon). Your problem sounds almost too dramatic to simply be a bad damper, but coil issues are pretty easy to identify, so then it would have to be a damper.


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## urmb (Oct 4, 2005)

Just noticed that this thread was originally just MRP Ribbon but seemed to have morphed into Ribbon coil; forgive me trolls. Two rides on my ribbon coil! Performing so much bedda then my tired, but recently rebuilt, Pike dual position. Rode down two trails with chunder and that fork made me smile so big I was catching leaves and late fall bugs in my teeth. Late fall bugs are crunchy! I am nursing a major knee injury, so couldn't push to my limits. Running at full 170mm which didn't negatively affect my Mojo 3, but taller than my previous fork. Going to adjust to 150mm and compare. Played around with the ramp control. Tried it fully on and fully off. Ended up liking it in the middle. Also played around with preload. I like to have preload off on rocky climbs. moved towards preload in the middle on descents. Rebound I left in the middle. I way 180ish fully geared and the medium worked well so far. 

urmb


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

^LMFAO, you’re actually comparing a Ribbon coil to a POS dual position Pike let alone even admitting that you bought a DP Pike. So, don’t tell me you’re surprised the Ribbon is a better performing fork.


Function in disaster, finish in style.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> I'll certainly advocate for that.
> (spring in between med and firm)


Any word on this??


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Tvilleguy said:


> Hey guys. I've got a Ribbon coil 160mm 29er that I converted from an air from new (I'm in Australia, and was waiting over 12 weeks for a coil set to arrive due to shortages so did the conversion from air to get the bike built). I'm about 95kg ready to ride, and have a firm spring installed... bike is an Evil Wreckoning. Been on it almost 5 months now and have a strange issue that is starting to become troublesome. The first time it happened I was out of town on a biking holiday... and it literally occurred overnight. Before I left town, was riding at my local park, no issues, doing decent sized drops (5ft), jumps, big rock gardens etc with no issues. First day of holidays, I went off a small drop, maybe 2 feet high and the fork bottomed out completely. Thought that was wierd so checked all the dials, turned RC to max, then went off the drop again and it bottomed out again. Ramp control had no effect at either extreme. There was almost no resistence on compression and I thought I'd broken the spring. Feeling kind of came back later that arvo so I continued to ride hoping that was a one off event as I'd driven 5 hours to get to this park. The next day, my fork didn't feel right... was on a flow trail the next day, went off a 3ft drop, fork didn't compress, sent me over the bars. After that I pretty much rode very gingerly and avoided anything jumpy, droppy or technical... the fork damping felt fine, except now I only had about 70mm of travel. Weekend kinda ruined because of this, I got home pulled the lowers off and removed the coil, all looked fine. Gave the spring another hit of grease, did a lower leg service, reassembled the bike and it felt buttery smooth again, full travel, I thought all was good. When this happened I would be lucky to of had 20 hours of riding time on the brand new bike. Anyways, again yesterday, the stiction of the forks seems to be getting 'notchy'. I did notice this stiction happening just before the last episode happened and I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this issue before I give up and go buy another set of forks... coz when these coils are working properly they're amazing.
> So I calculated that I'm probably around 20 hours riding time again since last service. The spring is coated in blue marine grease as recommended, seals have slick honey on them and the fork bath oil is yamaha 5wt.
> Any ideas?? Could it be a bad damper? Something on the spring side? There's not really much else in these forks such as air seals etc that can screw up.


Sorry for the delay, I've been away at an event.

My guess is there is something wrong with a bushing perhaps. Check your stanchions for any sign of scarring. In any case, don't just give up on the fork - these things are covered under warranty and it's not normal at all to have such inconsistent performance.

Your bath oil being only 5wt is pretty thin, I think you would definitely benefit from 10, 15, or even 20wt oil in the bath.


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## Tvilleguy (Apr 14, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry for the delay, I've been away at an event.
> 
> My guess is there is something wrong with a bushing perhaps. Check your stanchions for any sign of scarring. In any case, don't just give up on the fork - these things are covered under warranty and it's not normal at all to have such inconsistent performance.
> 
> Your bath oil being only 5wt is pretty thin, I think you would definitely benefit from 10, 15, or even 20wt oil in the bath.


Hi Noah,
Thanks for getting back to me. Last service the stanchions looked ok, but will check them again when I next pull the lowers. I did email MRP service and Eric suggested it could have been grease in the RC port causing the ramp up issues. I did clean it all up pretty well but will check it again. 
As for using 5wt fork oil... the service video recommended 5-10wt so that is what I purchased? Eric also suggested going to a 10-20wt in his email. So next question.. what brand fork oil do you recommend I use for the bath oil in the lowers? I'll have to buy a new bottle of heavier oil so would rather buy something that you'd recommend so I buy the right product. Also, is there a instructional video to do a damper service/bleed? I've watched the Stage fork bleed video... is it the same for the Ribbon?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Tvilleguy said:


> Hi Noah,
> Thanks for getting back to me. Last service the stanchions looked ok, but will check them again when I next pull the lowers. I did email MRP service and Eric suggested it could have been grease in the RC port causing the ramp up issues. I did clean it all up pretty well but will check it again.
> As for using 5wt fork oil... the service video recommended 5-10wt so that is what I purchased? Eric also suggested going to a 10-20wt in his email. So next question.. what brand fork oil do you recommend I use for the bath oil in the lowers? I'll have to buy a new bottle of heavier oil so would rather buy something that you'd recommend so I buy the right product. Also, is there a instructional video to do a damper service/bleed? I've watched the Stage fork bleed video... is it the same for the Ribbon?


Re: oil We have been testing heavier weight oil in the bath for awhile with positive results. I'm using WPL 20wt. We are going to see how it performs as the temperatures drop in the coming months before giving it an official recommendation or changing our production. But so far in warm temps, it seems to be prolonging plushness.

We do not have a video for the bleed procedure. It's on the to-do list now that travel and events have tapered off. It is the same procedure as the Stage with the IFPO damper.


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## manitou2200 (Apr 28, 2006)

I’ve been using either 5 or 10 weight bath oil in my Stage with good results. I change it from summer. To colder months here in our northern climate. It’s good to know that it’s ok to use heavier oil as I have 15, 20 and 0w-30 oils on hand. Have you guys tried the 0w-30 multi viscosity type oils?

I just sold my Stage so looking forward to getting the Ribbon. 


Function in disaster, finish in style.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I haven't serviced my Ribbon yet as it's only a few months old, but I'll do it this winter. My last fork was a Manitou Mattoc and it comes with Motorex 5w40. I started using Red Line 5w40 synthetic motor oil. Also works fine as a bath in Rockshox and Fox shocks in the air can; not that it's a high bar.

Red Line 5w40 has similar CST to a lot of 20w fork oils, though: https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

I would probably try 5w30 synthetic motor oil if you ride in cold weather (below 40F). Don't buy anything for 'high mileage' engines or other special purposes - they have additives that you don't want.


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## Tvilleguy (Apr 14, 2018)

ColinL said:


> I would probably try 5w30 synthetic motor oil if you ride in cold weather (below 40F). Don't buy anything for 'high mileage' engines or other special purposes - they have additives that you don't want.


I live in Far North Queensland... Australia... we get 2 types of climate here... hot and hotter lol. I've gone for Lucas 20wt synthetic fork oil for the trial. Local shops didn't have any Fox Gold 20wt in stock and the Lucas stuff is pretty top notch according to my mechanic mate. 
This stuff is 77.5 cst at 40 deg, 12.4 cst at 100 deg. Not quite as thick as the fox gold but should do the job just fine.
Thanks everyone for the help and advice.... won't get a chance to do the service until next weekend so will report back on how it feels after that.


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

I just did a service on my coil and used Spectro 20w, was using Motul 5w. Wow what a change! The fork is now pure silky smooth no matter how I put load on the stantions. I can't get one single bit of stiction felling from them now no matter how they're loaded. It fells like a different fork and it wasn't bad before. I would never have thought there would have been this larger improvement.
I brought a 1/2kg tub of Slickoleum so have plenty of that around the seals as well.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Brief update.

I've got just above 100 miles on the Ribbon Air and all there is to say it has gotten better with time. Apparently a bit of break-in makes it even smoother.

Thx MRP.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I have put a 10 wt rockshox stuff in there. Should have not read the manual and use fox 20wt that's home. Lol.
Anyway I think oil and oil does mix so can't I mix my own from these two? Any experts here? 

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## Tvilleguy (Apr 14, 2018)

Update... I changed out the oil in the lowers with the Lucas 20wt. It is MUCH better now. I have had a few rides on it and it's nice and smooth compared to when I was using the 5wt oil. I did notice that the oil in the spring side came out blue instead of bronze... the blue grease must be seeping a little and getting past the seal. Is this supposed to happen? I also noticed it last time I did the lower service and changed out the o-ring with the one from the air spring seal... that didn't seem to change anything. 
Anyone else notice this when they service their coil forks?


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

Tvilleguy said:


> Update... I changed out the oil in the lowers with the Lucas 20wt. It is MUCH better now. I have had a few rides on it and it's nice and smooth compared to when I was using the 5wt oil. I did notice that the oil in the spring side came out blue instead of bronze... the blue grease must be seeping a little and getting past the seal. Is this supposed to happen? I also noticed it last time I did the lower service and changed out the o-ring with the one from the air spring seal... that didn't seem to change anything.
> Anyone else notice this when they service their coil forks?


Mine with 20w have been amazingly smooth as well. I would never had though it would have made this much difference.

I do get some discoloration in the oil on the spring side. I'm using a clear grease on the spring but the oil takes on a light gray tint. I haven't worried about it.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Sorry if this has been covered but....

Where can I find the "how to" manual for dropping/servicing/oil change on the lowers on the MRP Coil???


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

Miker J said:


> Sorry if this has been covered but....
> 
> Where can I find the "how to" manual for dropping/servicing/oil change on the lowers on the MRP Coil???


This video here but you just don't take the spring/shaft out.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

RaymondC said:


> This video here but you just don't take the spring/shaft out.


Thanks - yeah, I just figured that out. And the spring/travel change pdf covers dropping the lowers.

Any chance SRAM/Pike/Boxxer sized foam rings fit the MRP forks?


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Tvilleguy said:


> Update... I changed out the oil in the lowers with the Lucas 20wt. It is MUCH better now. I have had a few rides on it and it's nice and smooth compared to when I was using the 5wt oil. I did notice that the oil in the spring side came out blue instead of bronze... the blue grease must be seeping a little and getting past the seal. Is this supposed to happen? I also noticed it last time I did the lower service and changed out the o-ring with the one from the air spring seal... that didn't seem to change anything.
> Anyone else notice this when they service their coil forks?


is this just the oil in the lowers you are changing and how much are you using?
Cheers


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

alan1 said:


> is this just the oil in the lowers you are changing and how much are you using?
> Cheers


Yes. If you have completely cleaned out the lowers and/or they seem especially dry, 15cc. If there is still a fair bit of oil coating the inside, 10cc (each leg).


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Thanks Noah


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## kwapik (Mar 1, 2016)

Good review of the Ribbon.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/bl...)&utm_content=MRP+Ribbon+Review,+Ergon+Saddle


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

So I'm sitting here with cash in hand to buy an air shock from you.... but there is none. Still hoping 

If you do decide to make one, make it with independent Pos/Neg like the Ribbon. Also, make it handle heavy dudes who need to use +300 psi.

Based on the way my Ribbon performs I'm almost ready to say:
"Shut up and take my money" if you make one.

:thumbsup:


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

C-H said:


> So I'm sitting here with cash in hand to buy an air shock from you.... but there is none. Still hoping
> 
> If you do decide to make one, make it with independent Pos/Neg like the Ribbon. Also, make it handle heavy dudes who need to use +300 psi.
> 
> ...


Frame leverage ratios aside, there is no better solution for a heavier rider than coil.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

kwapik said:


> Good review of the Ribbon.
> 
> https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/bl...)&utm_content=MRP+Ribbon+Review,+Ergon+Saddle


I always like more info, but I'm quite shocked how the reviewer went from soft spring on his Ribbon coil with 6-10 turns of preload to a medium spring with zero preload. That is just radically different.

Then he has ramp control maxed out on the Ribbon air and noted that his fork is riding fairly deep in mid-stroke. I know this is a complex fork and each rider has their own preferences, but I think this is a clear sign that his air spring was not set up properly, too soft. Then it's surely harsh on the top end, with ramp control maxed out to try to control bottoming, which is happening because his spring rate is wrong.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Just ordered a Ribbon air for my Pedalhead build last night. Will be awhile before I get to ride it, but pretty stoked.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ColinL said:


> I always like more info, but I'm quite shocked how the reviewer went from soft spring on his Ribbon coil with 6-10 turns of preload to a medium spring with zero preload. That is just radically different.
> 
> Then he has ramp control maxed out on the Ribbon air and noted that his fork is riding fairly deep in mid-stroke. I know this is a complex fork and each rider has their own preferences, but I think this is a clear sign that his air spring was not set up properly, too soft. Then it's surely harsh on the top end, with ramp control maxed out to try to control bottoming, which is happening because his spring rate is wrong.


Yes, I think with a little more experimentation he could eliminate the limited criticisms he had of performance. For instance, reducing reliance on Ramp Control and increasing air pressure. Or, reducing the delta between pos/neg pressure.

The impression he had of coil riding in the mid-stroke didn't seem right to me either, but perhaps that was with the initial soft spring installed. Coil has more mid-stroke support than air, so it should ride higher (closer to sag more often).

That said, even without a perfect setup he said multiple times (in the video) the Ribbon was head and shoulders above Fox and Rock Shox in very rough terrain. I'm good with that.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

C-H said:


> So I'm sitting here with cash in hand to buy an air shock from you.... but there is none. Still hoping


There will be. It's pretty special.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> There will be. It's pretty special.


Shut up and take my money LOL!

Riding an Ibis Ripley BTW.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Noah - I know it's a bit of an odd-ball size, but will MRP be coming out with a trunnion-mount coil in 185 x 52.5? Asking for a friend...


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Yes, I think with a little more experimentation he could eliminate the limited criticisms he had of performance. For instance, reducing reliance on Ramp Control and increasing air pressure. Or, reducing the delta between pos/neg pressure.
> 
> The impression he had of coil riding in the mid-stroke didn't seem right to me either, but perhaps that was with the initial soft spring installed. Coil has more mid-stroke support than air, so it should ride higher (closer to sag more often).
> 
> That said, even without a perfect setup he said multiple times (in the video) the Ribbon was head and shoulders above Fox and Rock Shox in very rough terrain. I'm good with that.


I too was a bit surprised by the settings they used. It sounded weird.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> Yes, I think with a little more experimentation he could eliminate the limited criticisms he had of performance. For instance, reducing reliance on Ramp Control and increasing air pressure. Or, reducing the delta between pos/neg pressure.
> 
> The impression he had of coil riding in the mid-stroke didn't seem right to me either, but perhaps that was with the initial soft spring installed. Coil has more mid-stroke support than air, so it should ride higher (closer to sag more often).
> 
> That said, even without a perfect setup he said multiple times (in the video) the Ribbon was head and shoulders above Fox and Rock Shox in very rough terrain. I'm good with that.


Assuming what the reviewer said was correct, the info and fashion he presented it was great. Yeah, every fork maker boasts of chatter eliminating small bump compliance, mid-stroke support, and impact eating end stroke progression. But the reviewer compared how each fork had subtle differences and circumstances where one fork might be a better choice than another - that was great.

I'd like to add what I've found with the Ribbon coil as well. It's not quite as soft off the top as I expected for a coil. Might be because I'm geared up at 180# on a 275 with 150mm of travel and that puts me near the low end on the middle spring. So when I'm just taking my time, cruising along on our chattery trails the fork almost feels just a bit harsh. However, when the going gets rough and I start to push the bike through high speed chunk and hitting landings a bit off after air time, the Coil really comes to life and performs any air fork I've ridden in a while.

Two questions for MRP/Noah if you don't mind...

The LSC damping seems a bit stiff for my 180#. I've heard from a few others they typically ride their LSC completely or almost completely open. Any chance the stock damper set up is a bit on the firm side?

Dropped and cleaned out the lowers and the oil I had on hand was RockShox 30w. Any reason that might cause a problem, or am I ok with that oil weight?


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> There will be. It's pretty special.


Can you give any general hints on what sort of time frame we're looking at for this? Christmas? Next spring? Next summer?

I'm looking at ordering a new bike between Christmas and February. If I go with a GG Smash, I'd love to spec a full MRP air suspension, and the availability of it would probably push me in favor of getting that bike rather than a Sentinel.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Two questions for MRP/Noah if you don't mind...
> 
> The LSC damping seems a bit stiff for my 180#. I've heard from a few others they typically ride their LSC completely or almost completely open. Any chance the stock damper set up is a bit on the firm side?
> 
> Dropped and cleaned out the lowers and the oil I had on hand was RockShox 30w. Any reason that might cause a problem, or am I ok with that oil weight?


Question #1. No, there's no chance anything we're making now could be improved. 

I'm around your weight and I seldom use LSC either, but I'm generally higher on spring rate than others at the same weight. I think there is correlation there. As well, there so much choppiness and so many square-edge hits on my terrain, I'm looking to keep that initial stroke as supple as possible.

I know many people who do run more in the middle of the range. Any I think everyone uses it at max from time to time, to climb roads primarily.

In any case, we're always (or at least often) experimenting with new damper tech and tunes.

Two, there's so many different oils out there that I'm kinda relying on you guys to test and report. We're doing some more disciplined testing in house with some specific oils, but as you can imagine, this process takes awhile if you're really limiting the variables. Anecdotally, I feel there is benefit to higher viscosity oil use in the lowers (bath oil), at least for most of the season here (where it's very warm). I am curious to see if that changes as temps drop. Since we don't know where each fork goes, we kinda have to build with something that works in *most* climates.

In short: We haven't tested everything, but I think as long as you're using something intended for suspension, you should be a-okay.

Lighter viscosity in colder operation temps, higher in higher temps. Lower viscosity _may_ necessitate more frequent service. I don't necessarily see that as a downside, IMO the more you refresh the oil and grease in your lowers the more consistent and better your fork feels (and the quicker the service operation becomes).

:thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Andeh said:


> Can you give any general hints on what sort of time frame we're looking at for this? Christmas? Next spring? Next summer?
> 
> I'm looking at ordering a new bike between Christmas and February. If I go with a GG Smash, I'd love to spec a full MRP air suspension, and the availability of it would probably push me in favor of getting that bike rather than a Sentinel.


I can only say "not Christmas." And not between then and February.

I certainly have development timelines, but we're not gonna come out with it until it's perfect. That could be spring (that'd be the absolute earliest), that could be summer.

To give you an idea, we've been working on it regularly for at least 3 years. We've completely scrapped more than a few designs. I've been on the same basic design since May 2017 though, so it's definitely getting close.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

It's an air shock so I'll guess it has a piston + pos and neg air spring.
The damping system would be the trick up your sleeve.:thumbsup:


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> I can only say "not Christmas." And not between then and February.
> 
> I certainly have development timelines, but we're not gonna come out with it until it's perfect. That could be spring (that'd be the absolute earliest), that could be summer.
> 
> To give you an idea, we've been working on it regularly for at least 3 years. We've completely scrapped more than a few designs. I've been on the same basic design since May 2017 though, so it's definitely getting close.


Thanks for the honest answer. It's still useful to know - maybe I get a budget RS shock as a placeholder, or start with coil and upgrade to air later to have both.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

165# here - i run ramp control and LSC fully open and never touch them. I feel it could use a touch less HSC on the shim stack.

80+/82- psi @ 140mm.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> Question #1. No, there's no chance anything we're making now could be improved.


I dig that tone of confidence!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> I dig that tone of confidence!


Just keepin' it real. Since that PB Award came in I've just been sitting back collectin' checks. Why mess with the best?

(IF IT'S NOT OBVIOUS THIS IS ALL VERY MUCH TONGUE IN CHEEK.)


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

Andeh said:


> Thanks for the honest answer. It's still useful to know - maybe I get a budget RS shock as a placeholder, or start with coil and upgrade to air later to have both.


I'm pretty sure that my RS Deluxe fits the Smash. You can have it as as I'm concerned.


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## Andeh (Jul 30, 2014)

Curveball said:


> I'm pretty sure that my RS Deluxe fits the Smash. You can have it as as I'm concerned.


Appreciate the offer, but I want a reservoir shock for the riding I do, even if was just for several months.


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

Man now I've messed up (don't wrench on your bike late at night). I noticed that my stanchions had a little bit of wear (2 scratches along the stanchion) and wanted to inspect the bushes of my ribbon. Fine right? Nope, I managed to not only conclude that the bushings look ok, so the wear is most likely due to an unlucky grain of sand making its way into the seal, but also managed to unthread the damper needle introducing air to the damper. Ugh, looks like a new CSU and damper bleed are in order.

Is there anywhere in Europe that I can order the damper bleed tools? I'd probably look to send the fork for service, but there are no local service centers, so it would have to go abroad.

As for the CSU, I have to decide whether it is worth replacing or simply ride the fork as I bought it used for not a huge sum (and actually maybe those scratches were there from when I bought it).

Here is the scratch (there are 2, both on the air side):


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

Miker J said:


> Thanks - yeah, I just figured that out. And the spring/travel change pdf covers dropping the lowers.
> 
> Any chance SRAM/Pike/Boxxer sized foam rings fit the MRP forks?


yes they fit, as well as 3rd party ones for 35mm (Push, SKF)..


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

fr0sty said:


> As for the CSU, I have to decide whether it is worth replacing or simply ride the fork as I bought it used for not a huge sum (and actually maybe those scratches were there from when I bought it).


I would not replace the CSU. You polish the scratches with some very fine grit wet sandpaper if you think they'll damage the seal. I've repaired far worse stanchion scratches and I am still using the repaired forks 1-2 years later with no issue.


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

vikb said:


> I would not replace the CSU. You polish the scratches with some very fine grit wet sandpaper if you think they'll damage the seal. I've repaired far worse stanchion scratches and I am still using the repaired forks 1-2 years later with no issue.


Yeah I'm leaning towards that, the scratches aren't going to damage the seals I think, will require a bit more frequent lower leg services but that is fine. Anyway I'll probably just send the fork for a service and see what they say, I've found a dealer nearby that will send it to a service center.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I was doing a travel change and managed to scratch the shaft with my screwdriver (only to later find out that my multi tool pliers fit the lock ring perfectly...)
It's not too big imo but can be felt when moving the piston through it =any possible issues from this?
Also got bath oil coming out the negative valve when releasing pressure, can it be caused by that scratch or did I mess something else too?
Thanks for your suggestions,
Roman 

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

fr0sty said:


> Man now I've messed up (don't wrench on your bike late at night). I noticed that my stanchions had a little bit of wear (2 scratches along the stanchion) and wanted to inspect the bushes of my ribbon. Fine right? Nope, I managed to not only conclude that the bushings look ok, so the wear is most likely due to an unlucky grain of sand making its way into the seal, but also managed to unthread the damper needle introducing air to the damper. Ugh, looks like a new CSU and damper bleed are in order.
> 
> Is there anywhere in Europe that I can order the damper bleed tools? I'd probably look to send the fork for service, but there are no local service centers, so it would have to go abroad.
> 
> ...


FYI, we can just replace a stanchion (vs. replacing a whole CSU).


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> FYI, we can just replace a stanchion (vs. replacing a whole CSU).


That's awesome. It's going to a local service center and I'll see what they say.


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## tefiii2005 (Mar 24, 2007)

I just got a brand new MRP Ribbon Air and was unlucky enough to receive one with defective sticky bushings. What a lovely Christmas gift to myself. The merchant has jumped on a fix right away and is going to have MRP fix me right up (I hope) so maybe I'll be able to ride it soon.


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## Masberg (Feb 24, 2018)

I have done a service on my Ribbon Coil. When I pulled off the casting, there was an O ring and a nut on the rod of the spring side. I looked at the service video and it was clear how the parts had to be put together again.

Why does this nut loosen at all? What function did I have to miss? I assume that I drove like that for several months without knowing that I have a problem.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Masberg said:


> What function did I have to miss?


Ramp Control. With the nut loose you didn't have Ramp Control functionality. That o-ring covers the ports that allow air to transit back into the casting. Uncovered, air can go both ways.

Shoot us an e-mail or give us a ring to fix it. 970-241-3518 [email protected]


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> Question #1. No, there's no chance anything we're making now could be improved.
> 
> I'm around your weight and I seldom use LSC either, but I'm generally higher on spring rate than others at the same weight. I think there is correlation there. As well, there so much choppiness and so many square-edge hits on my terrain, I'm looking to keep that initial stroke as supple as possible.
> 
> ...


I've always been told the same thing by the moto suspension tuners....my guy recommends 20 hrs MAX between oil changes! I think it's one of those things where people don't really realize performance degradation since it's so slow over time, but it makes a big difference which is noticeable!


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## tefiii2005 (Mar 24, 2007)

I have not received any subsequent response from my merchant about my brand new fork that showed up defective. Hopefully something comes through soon. I'm sure he's on top of it and has to wait on MRP. I am, however, fairly disappointed that I bought a brand new fork and now it has to be sent into service before I can even ride it. I would have thought a replacement would have been brought up. Now I have to wait again. Maybe MRP will at least use next day or two day shipping to get this one into and back from repair. I'm just so bummed I cannot ride this beautiful fork.


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## james.stoup (May 8, 2015)

tefiii2005 said:


> I have not received any subsequent response from my merchant about my brand new fork that showed up defective. Hopefully something comes through soon. I'm sure he's on top of it and has to wait on MRP. I am, however, fairly disappointed that I bought a brand new fork and now it has to be sent into service before I can even ride it. I would have thought a replacement would have been brought up. Now I have to wait again. Maybe MRP will at least use next day or two day shipping to get this one into and back from repair. I'm just so bummed I cannot ride this beautiful fork.


Perhaps instead of trolling the forums you could call MRP directly and let them know the issue. Their customer support has always been top notch for me, and if I've had an issue it's been somewhere else in the chain, LBS, shipping. I shipped a fork back to them that wasn't working and they did a service for me completely free. I know it sucks, and I expect they're backed up a bit with holiday/black friday purchases and new product releases (I'm waiting on a Ribbon Coil), but you're far better of getting info from the horses mouth.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

tefiii2005 said:


> I have not received any subsequent response from my merchant about my brand new fork that showed up defective. Hopefully something comes through soon. I'm sure he's on top of it and has to wait on MRP. I am, however, fairly disappointed that I bought a brand new fork and now it has to be sent into service before I can even ride it. I would have thought a replacement would have been brought up. Now I have to wait again. Maybe MRP will at least use next day or two day shipping to get this one into and back from repair. I'm just so bummed I cannot ride this beautiful fork.


I'm sorry to hear about your experience. I didn't comment earlier because I know nothing of your specific case.

In matters like this, I would expect an immediate response from us. So you should hear something soon. Have you had any contact with us directly? I'm wondering where the conclusion that the bushings were defective came from.

Feel free to contact us directly if you'd like. Or, loop me into the convo if things are progressing smoothly.


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## tefiii2005 (Mar 24, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm sorry to hear about your experience. I didn't comment earlier because I know nothing of your specific case.
> 
> In matters like this, I would expect an immediate response from us. So you should hear something soon. Have you had any contact with us directly? I'm wondering where the conclusion that the bushings were defective came from.
> 
> Feel free to contact us directly if you'd like. Or, loop me into the convo if things are progressing smoothly.


Hi Noah, I sent a msg through mrp website contact us feature.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

Masberg said:


> I have done a service on my Ribbon Coil. When I pulled off the casting, there was an O ring and a nut on the rod of the spring side. I looked at the service video and it was clear how the parts had to be put together again.
> 
> Why does this nut loosen at all? What function did I have to miss? I assume that I drove like that for several months without knowing that I have a problem.
> 
> View attachment 1227808


This also happened to me. MRP has a new stanchion plug that is a single machined piece of aluminum instead of the two that thread together. Attached photo shows old piece on the left, new one on the right.


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## Masberg (Feb 24, 2018)

thx for your hint. I was already in contact with mrp and the one piece design is on the way to me. Best service ever. Is the one piece simply screwed in or does more need to be done?


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## Raleighguy29 (Jan 7, 2014)

So i finally got my balance down to windrock this weekend since I got the ribbon coil on it. Now I've always loved this bike in the steep chunky shoots of windrock. I had a 170 stage on it for for the first couple years. While I loved that fork wether on my my home trails out in pisgah or windrock. I had my stage out being serviced and had s trip to Duluth for spirit mountain came up so I borrowed a buddy's ribbon coil for the trip and fell in love with it. I had the bike in pisgah in October and it ripped pilot rock a new one man oh man was this fork at home in windrock. #ridetherock #putaribbononit you guys make a amazing fork. Paired with the mrp raze on the back this bike is complete.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Raleighguy29 said:


> I had my stage out being serviced and had s trip to Duluth for spirit mountain came up so I borrowed a buddy's ribbon coil for the trip and fell in love with it. I had the bike in pisgah in October and it ripped pilot rock a new one man oh man was this fork at home in windrock. #ridetherock #putaribbononit you guys make a amazing fork. Paired with the mrp raze on the back this bike is complete.


Very cool! I've heard nothing but good things about that place.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Masberg said:


> thx for your hint. I was already in contact with mrp and the one piece design is on the way to me. Best service ever. Is the one piece simply screwed in or does more need to be done?


Going off memory here, but I believe you must take the spring assembly out, remove the old stanchion plug and slide this one on. The whole assembly is held in place by the snap ring. Backing off preload fully will likely help the install process.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

has anyone had their Ribbon revalved?

i feel like i'm overdamped @165lb in colder weather. 

@MRP, is this something i could pay you guys to have done? install a lighter shim stack?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> has anyone had their Ribbon revalved?
> 
> i feel like i'm overdamped @165lb in colder weather.
> 
> @MRP, is this something i could pay you guys to have done? install a lighter shim stack?


Howdy, have you tried thinner oil?

Re-valving is not something we currently offer. I wish we did, but we just don't have the bandwidth for tuning services at this time. I'd imagine a suspension specialist could do some custom work though.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Just picked up an MRP Ribbon. I just wanted to try something different. Put 43 all-mountain high desert miles on it this past weekend. Wow. I've never had a fork that I immediately loved, but the set-up on this was so intuitive. I followed the book for a 170lb person (I'm 176 riding weight) and then adjusted the ramp control during my riding (8 clicks cw from open), plush setting (neg>pos) but will probably eventually make it 'balanced.' I was so impressed! I almost bought one a year ago...wish I would have! This fork is awesome! The thing I noticed when unboxing it was the quality of the small dials/parts. They felt well made, not plastic-y and everything was smooth. The adjustments just made sense to me, more so than on my Fox 36. And I felt I was able to get the fork to be supple and supportive. Instant fan! One question I would have of this forum is what is the oil weight recommended for the Ribbon? I haven't been able to find it in any of the tech resources.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

its a fantastic fork. 

the beauty of a small scrappy company is that they dont have the luxury of building planned obsolence into their product to force onto a captive customer base (fox/rock shox/chevy/ford/dodge/apple/porsche etc etc). 

it's got to be right the first time. and the Ribbon is.


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## Stalkerfiveo (Feb 24, 2015)

foggnm said:


> One question I would have of this forum is what is the oil weight recommended for the Ribbon? I haven't been able to find it in any of the tech resources.


I have been using this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJVGKW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

Hey Noah, 

could you tell us what brand and weight come stock in the damper? and/or the CST rating?


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

FactoryMatt said:


> its a fantastic fork.
> 
> the beauty of a small scrappy company is that they dont have the luxury of building planned obsolence into their product to force onto a captive customer base (fox/rock shox/chevy/ford/dodge/apple/porsche etc etc).
> 
> it's got to be right the first time. and the Ribbon is.


The fork felt great from day 1.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> Hey Noah,
> 
> could you tell us what brand and weight come stock in the damper? and/or the CST rating?


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Need a little help on set-up. Wanted to step out of the box (Fox fan boy for the last 10 years) so I built up my new Evil Offering with a 150mm ribbon coil. First ride was stellar as it just silenced all the normal trail chatter. Felt really good and very composed. More rides in I find myself struggling with the mid-stroke compression on more technical downhills. The fork dives really easy which is a bit awkward when getting aggressive.

Set-up with the medium spring, a single turn of preload, 4-5 clicks from open on the ramp control. That gives me about an 25mm of sag in the attack position. Feels great most of the time but sketchy through fast, chunky terrain with repeated big hits that require some precision. Weird thing is I don't even get full travel with this set-up. Leaving about 10-15mm of travel even on some 3-4' drops into rocky landings.

I did increase the preload a bit and added 3-4 clicks of compression which helped but of course I lost the small bump compliance and now have about 10% sag....which leaves about 25mm travel left on every ride. Feel like I'm overcompensating for a bad set-up with too much preload/compression. Not ready to give up on the fork yet but close to throwing my Fox 36 w/ACS-3 on this bike. Any suggestions? Spring swap? Feel like a heavier spring will just make getting full use out of the travel worse.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Stupordave said:


> Need a little help on set-up. Wanted to step out of the box (Fox fan boy for the last 10 years) so I built up my new Evil Offering with a 150mm ribbon coil. First ride was stellar as it just silenced all the normal trail chatter. Felt really good and very composed. More rides in I find myself struggling with the mid-stroke compression on more technical downhills. The fork dives really easy which is a bit awkward when getting aggressive.
> 
> Set-up with the medium spring, a single turn of preload, 4-5 clicks from open on the ramp control. That gives me about an 25mm of sag in the attack position. Feels great most of the time but sketchy through fast, chunky terrain with repeated big hits that require some precision. Weird thing is I don't even get full travel with this set-up. Leaving about 10-15mm of travel even on some 3-4' drops into rocky landings.
> 
> ...


Nice ride!

Seems like a no-brainer to at least try the heavy spring, ramp and LSC full open. I wouldn't worry too much about sag and focus on how it feels. I found this guide pretty helpful:

https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/technical-support/suspension-setup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shadow4eva (Jul 11, 2017)

Not an expert at all but is the medium spring rated for your weight with full gear?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Shadow4eva said:


> Not an expert at all but is the medium spring rated for your weight with full gear?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah...About 205 geared up. In the medium spring range but near the top. Perhaps the heavier spring is the right next move.

Have to say I'm loving the Offering. I thought my Switchblade was about as good as it got, but the Offering is just a little better with coils on the front and rear. Very similar though.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

FWIW I am running a 150mm 29er coil Ribbon w/ medium spring and I am ~200lbs geared to ride on a GG Smash. I could run a firm spring and be fine so I would second the suggestion to try it.

This is my first coil bike in nearly two decades. It feels a lot different than air, but now that I am used to it I like it better. Switching to my 2nd bike [air sprung] I miss my coils.

Enjoy the new Evil. It looks like a rad bike.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Thanks for the advice fellas. Went with 3 full turns of preload and 4 clicks of compression and no ramp control. Got a nice run down Longhorn (good rocky trail bike dhill run) and the diving was gone and hit the bottom of the travel...accidentally. Did notice a slight increase in chatter but but very minimal and stayed precise in the tight rocky chutes. Much more dialed now. May keep playing with medium settings before I try the firm spring. Thanks again.


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## NorthShoreDude (Feb 21, 2013)

what is the maximum amount of preload you can go?


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Masberg said:


> I have done a service on my Ribbon Coil. When I pulled off the casting, there was an O ring and a nut on the rod of the spring side. I looked at the service video and it was clear how the parts had to be put together again.
> 
> Why does this nut loosen at all? What function did I have to miss? I assume that I drove like that for several months without knowing that I have a problem.
> 
> View attachment 1227808


Just did a service and this happened to me too. gonna call MRP and ask them to send the one-piece.


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## NorthShoreDude (Feb 21, 2013)

Noah, any time frame for the 29er 170mm with short offset being released? Thanks.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

NorthShoreDude said:


> what is the maximum amount of preload you can go?


Till it bottoms which should be around 10.5 turns. May want to go to a heavier spring though if you need more than 6-7.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

NorthShoreDude said:


> Noah, any time frame for the 29er 170mm with short offset being released? Thanks.


Not yet. It's something we can physically make, the question is whether we think the chassis is suitable at that length and what changes need to be made to the damper and spring. Those all take time to answer. We have one rider on a prototype right now and I'm getting on one in the the next month or so (just awaiting my Pivot Firebird 29). Hopefully by spring we'll have an answer and, if it's yes, an ETA.


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## NorthShoreDude (Feb 21, 2013)

Appreciate the feedback.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Quick 'I'm anal' question: are you guys dumping all the air in the negative chamber every time you tweak your positive/negative air pressure?

---

Changing air travel: 

I recently bought a 160mm Air with 46mm offset for my new bike build. I just dropped the travel down to 150mm today. Some notes:

- The "2mm" pin on the rebound knob was the hardest part. It's actually like 1mm? Didn't have anything for it. Eventually found a microscopic eye glass kit, none of those tiny bits fit until I sanded one down. 

- The snap ring part: snap ring pliers should be mandatory. Don't have any idea how you'd do it with a flathead screwdriver. I got it off using two picks but felt there was a good chance of damaging the shaft. 

- Adding the spacer: not really clear in the video or anywhere else. Especially if your comes with no spacers in it. The 'bumper' separating pos/neg on the shaft comes apart and it sandwiches in there. 

- When putting the air spring back in it helps to let air out of the valve so you can seat it all the way in and put in the snap ring (with snap ring pliers!) with ease. 

- Fork comes with spacers and packets of slick honey 

Overall was pretty easy! This coming from the guy that ruined his Fox 34 trying to get the lowers off without the stupid $40 tool. I like how easy it is to breakdown for simple service or travel changes! Just waiting for my damn frame to get here!


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

I do follow the manual when changing pressures, emptying the negative first, filling positive, then back to negative. What I've found works for those retaining rings is use an exactoknife to lift it(or a very small sharp screwdriver, like those used on electronics). I have scratched the air shaft on another fork using a regular sized flat head. However the razor knife slips under the ring easily and doesn't slip like a screwdriver.


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## johnnyknutsville (Apr 29, 2009)

I thought the process was fairly easy. I added 15mm of spacers to drop my fork from 170mm to 155mm. But when I added air to the fork the exposed amount of stanchions measures 170mm. Any idea what I might have done wrong? Any input is greatly appreciated. I repeated the process to no avail.

Edit: got my answer from MRP; there should be about 14mm of stanchion left when the fork is at full bottom out, so everything is good.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Did a damper bleed now I can't get the damper cap to thread on no matter how hard I push down while turning.

I can't hold it down far enough to get the threads to engage.

Help!!!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Did a damper bleed now I can't get the damper cap to thread on no matter how hard I push down while turning.
> 
> I can't hold it down far enough to get the threads to engage.
> 
> Help!!!


Called mrp turns out it was the top of the damper tube needed to be screwed further into the stantion.

Anyway purpose of the bleed was to go to a lighter oil because it was over damped for my weight.

Stock is 5wt didn't have anything but the lhm+ I use for my brakes.

So I used the lhm+ and it seems to be working well. The damping is light enough I can actually start using the ramp knob.

And my handlebars are no longer trying punch me in the face when I go over medium to large square edges.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Anyone switch to a Ribbon coil and wish they left it as a Ribbon air?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

cassieno said:


> Anyone switch to a Ribbon coil and wish they left it as a Ribbon air?


hmm, interesting question. I bought a Ribbon Air last year at a small discount at a time when nearly everyone posting in this thread was buying the Ribbon Coil or converting their Air forks. I am quite pleased with Air.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

cassieno said:


> Anyone switch to a Ribbon coil and wish they left it as a Ribbon air?





ColinL said:


> hmm, interesting question. I bought a Ribbon Air last year at a small discount at a time when nearly everyone posting in this thread was buying the Ribbon Coil or converting their Air forks. I am quite pleased with Air.


I bought a Ribbon Air recently. E-mailed back and forth with Noah at MRP a few times based on the frame I'll be putting it on, where I ride, and the characteristics I look for, and he suggested the air version. I don't have the bike built yet, so no assessments on the ride yet. If you've got questions about which would fit you best, I suggest reaching out to MRP support. They were really helpful when I asked.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I have been on the Ribbon Air for about 6 months now. No real reason that I am thinking about the coil except that I can convert the Air to a Coil .

To be honest I feel like I am still learning how to tune / adjust the Ribbon Air for my riding style (as it changes).


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## yrrekr (Oct 9, 2006)

cassieno said:


> I have been on the Ribbon Air for about 6 months now. No real reason that I am thinking about the coil except that I can convert the Air to a Coil .
> 
> To be honest I feel like I am still learning how to tune / adjust the Ribbon Air for my riding style (as it changes).


Just remember: you can't go back. Once it's a coil, it's a coil permanently. Not that that's a bad thing or anything. But it does mean you wanna be sure you want the change!


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

I just wanted to give a service report. I sent my Ribbon in for annual service and to swap to a shorter offset upper and Westin and Eric in service have been very helpful and communicative. When choosing a fork, the reports of good service from MRP really helped me make my decision to go with a Ribbon over a Fox 36 and I haven't been disappointed. 

I wish MRP made an air shock so I never have to deal with Fox or Rockshox again.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

funkymonks said:


> I just wanted to give a service report. I sent my Ribbon in for annual service and to swap to a shorter offset upper and Westin and Eric in service have been very helpful and communicative. When choosing a fork, the reports of good service from MRP really helped me make my decision to go with a Ribbon over a Fox 36 and I haven't been disappointed.
> 
> I wish MRP made an air shock so I never have to deal with Fox or Rockshox again.


Thanks so much for your report! Glad to hear it.

We'll keep working on that air shock!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

yrrekr said:


> Just remember: you can't go back. Once it's a coil, it's a coil permanently. Not that that's a bad thing or anything. But it does mean you wanna be sure you want the change!


That's true for most part - you can't convert it back yourself. However, you could send the fork into us, and we could replace the spring-side stanchion and do the conversion / re-install here.

Definitely MUCH cheaper than a new fork.

I can't think of anyone that's done this though.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

funkymonks said:


> I just wanted to give a service report. I sent my Ribbon in for annual service and to swap to a shorter offset upper and Westin and Eric in service have been very helpful and communicative. When choosing a fork, the reports of good service from MRP really helped me make my decision to go with a Ribbon over a Fox 36 and I haven't been disappointed.
> 
> I wish MRP made an air shock so I never have to deal with Fox or Rockshox again.


What was the total cost? I want to have the same thing done service/offset.

Thank you


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

Harold said:


> I bought a Ribbon Air recently. E-mailed back and forth with Noah at MRP a few times based on the frame I'll be putting it on, where I ride, and the characteristics I look for, and he suggested the air version. I don't have the bike built yet, so no assessments on the ride yet. If you've got questions about which would fit you best, I suggest reaching out to MRP support. They were really helpful when I asked.


Do you mind sharing any details on why he suggested air?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> What was the total cost? I want to have the same thing done service/offset.


It depends on which offset. The super-short offset crown is made in house and more expensive than the other (forged) crowns.

You can ask Eric our Service Manager for a quote. [email protected]


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

ArizRider said:


> Do you mind sharing any details on why he suggested air?


For one, I'm putting it on a hardtail (GG Pedalhead).
Other major consideration is travel. IIRC, he said that 150mm and up seems best for coil, but below that (I'm at 140mm) seems to do better with air.
As for riding style, this bike is going to be seeing some mixture of more rolling xc type trails as well as some stuff with long gravel climbs and long singletrack downs (some more technical than others) in Pisgah. I have other bikes, so I'm not exactly sure how much of the extremely technical stuff this bike will see.


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## JCP (Oct 3, 2008)

Hey everyone. Had an issue with my ribbon air and wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts, especially Noah. Went on a ride yesterday. Temperatures were cool in the low 30s. When I got to the top of the climb, I noticed that the fork was very stiff in compression and rebound. It felt like there was 40 extra PSI but when I check the pressures, it was where I set it at 70 in the positive at 80 in the negative. I rode down a fast downhill for about 8 to 10 minutes. Check the fork again. Got only about half the usual travel on this trail which was about 40%. Still felt very stiff. Kept riding for about another 15 minutes of constant downhill. Fork began to work better. By the end of the ride, it felt almost back to normal. Any thoughts on what caused this?


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## JCP (Oct 3, 2008)

Oh, I purchased the fork new. 1 month old. Has been working fine until yesterday.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Did you try poking the psssht valves to see if any air had built up?


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## JCP (Oct 3, 2008)

Yes I did. No change at the time


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Does anyone know the actual spring rates for the medium and firm springs on a Ribbon coil? Just trying to compare with another coiled fork setup.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

JCP said:


> Hey everyone. Had an issue with my ribbon air and wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts, especially Noah. Went on a ride yesterday. Temperatures were cool in the low 30s. When I got to the top of the climb, I noticed that the fork was very stiff in compression and rebound. It felt like there was 40 extra PSI but when I check the pressures, it was where I set it at 70 in the positive at 80 in the negative. I rode down a fast downhill for about 8 to 10 minutes. Check the fork again. Got only about half the usual travel on this trail which was about 40%. Still felt very stiff. Kept riding for about another 15 minutes of constant downhill. Fork began to work better. By the end of the ride, it felt almost back to normal. Any thoughts on what caused this?


so based on the subsequent replies I would say it's likely that your bath oil and/or damper oil was not flowing well. various sites list the viscosity and other specifications of suspension oils at 40 and 100 centigrade which represents warm and hot usage, but I have not ever seen anyone test oils at very low temps.

What I do know is that there's some precedent; when the Fox 36 was revamped several years ago it was one of the first Fox air forks to come with their Gold bath oil which is way thicker than previous fluids. People complained of harsh forks in very cold weather and replaced the bath oil with something thinner.

Try a 5w30 or 0w30 synthetic motor oil without additives for a cold weather bath oil. I wouldn't try changing the damper oil; that will have huge effects and I only mentioned it because it's _possible_ but I think it's the bath oil and I think that it is easy to change bath oil and experiment.

Definitely do not use any motor oil with additives like 'high mileage' formulas. Even though it's just bath oil, you don't want any kind of additive especially those designed to help seal worn/leaky seals inside engines.

BTW I used RedLine 5w30 in my last fork, a Manitou Mattoc, and I still use it in all shock air cans.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Stupordave said:


> Does anyone know the actual spring rates for the medium and firm springs on a Ribbon coil? Just trying to compare with another coiled fork setup.


X-soft: 5.5 N/mm

Soft: 6.9 N/mm

Med: 8.2 N/mm

Firm: 9.6 N/mm

X-firm:10.5 N/mm


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Awesome.. . Thanks characterzero!


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

How do folks on here adjust their air for colder temps? I was running 65pos 70neg at around 35+ degrees the last few weeks and it felt great. Today I went out when it was 20-29 and the fork felt harsh.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Air pressure will change with temp swings but from warm to cold, the pressures actually drop. Could be the smaller negative chamber is more sensitive to pressure changes. That coupled with the fluid temp change could make it feel harsh. I usually dial back on compression and rebound a click or two as well in colder temps.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Stupordave said:


> Air pressure will change with temp swings but from warm to cold, the pressures actually drop. Could be the smaller negative chamber is more sensitive to pressure changes. That coupled with the fluid temp change could make it feel harsh. I usually dial back on compression and rebound a click or two as well in colder temps.


Thanks, I forgot that about the smaller neg chamber getting impacted more by the temp change. That makes some sense as I was still getting through travel on bigger hits, it was small slow stuff that felt terrible. My tires may take a little blame, I didn't drop the pressure as usual to make up for the rubber getting harder.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

JCP said:


> Hey everyone. Had an issue with my ribbon air and wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts, especially Noah. Went on a ride yesterday. Temperatures were cool in the low 30s. When I got to the top of the climb, I noticed that the fork was very stiff in compression and rebound. It felt like there was 40 extra PSI but when I check the pressures, it was where I set it at 70 in the positive at 80 in the negative. I rode down a fast downhill for about 8 to 10 minutes. Check the fork again. Got only about half the usual travel on this trail which was about 40%. Still felt very stiff. Kept riding for about another 15 minutes of constant downhill. Fork began to work better. By the end of the ride, it felt almost back to normal. Any thoughts on what caused this?


Sounds like your fork just needed to warm up? Just like your car, forks need to warm up to an operating temperature range to work properly. The oil needs to circulate as well. You could mitigate this some by using lighter weight oils, but as you experienced, once you've ridden it a bit the fork performed normally.

Or you could build a warming hut like Trek World Racing did years ago. 

Are you resetting the air pressure when you're "checking"? It's definitely a good idea to check your air pressure if you feel something is off, but you need to be doing a full setup procedure when you do - because even connecting the pump to the negative pressure will drop spring pressure enough to significantly firm-up the fork. It's also hard to get an accurate reading on the negative pressure after-the-fact. The positive pressure will only drop a little with a pump install, so it's fairly easy to tell if it's leaking. The negative will drop by a significant amount, so unless it's at, say, zero psi or half of your usual pressure setting, it's probably not the culprit.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Sounds like your fork just needed to warm up? Just like your car, forks need to warm up to an operating temperature range to work properly. The oil needs to circulate as well. You could mitigate this some by using lighter weight oils, but as you experienced, once you've ridden it a bit the fork performed normally.


I think this is what was going on with regards to my post above as well. I had a two hour climb in the mid 20's then the descent was so freaking snowy/icy that I never went fast enough to warm up the fluid. Would soak up the first hit, then everything else just beat me up.


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## Gage Fu (Mar 23, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> Yup. It seems like people are less alarmed about straying from the recommended air-pressure settings - when they're off the recommended coil spring rates by one or two springs they panic though. It's okay, the saying "different strokes for different folks" has never been more fitting.
> 
> So, here's me at 170 lbs. today:
> 
> ...


Thanks for your settings, Noah. What rear shock are you/were you running with your Switchblade?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Gage Fu said:


> Thanks for your settings, Noah. What rear shock are you/were you running with your Switchblade?


No more Switchblade for me, sold it last spring. Currently have a Vault, Trail 429, and a Firebird 27.5 (for sale). Firebird 29 and Les 29 coming soon. 

When I had it: first DPS, then CCDB Air CS, then Float X2, sometimes Monarch R, and lastly, an MRP prototype shock.


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

NoahColorado said:


> ...an MRP prototype shock.


This is a mean thing to post.


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## funkymonks (Aug 23, 2017)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> What was the total cost? I want to have the same thing done service/offset.
> 
> Thank you


Sorry was travelling and didn't see your post. My total cost for a full service & uppers change was $290. I think changing the uppers to a new offset was around $200. I also got my old uppers back in case I need to swap again.


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## fr0sty (Feb 14, 2006)

Got my Ribbon back from a full service (including damper bleed) and it feels like a new fork... Really really smooth. It looks like I got some new seals too which might explain my previous complaints about small bump sensitivity.

Edit: also stanchions did not need replacing...which is cool.


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## xeren (Aug 1, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy, have you tried thinner oil?
> 
> Re-valving is not something we currently offer. I wish we did, but we just don't have the bandwidth for tuning services at this time. I'd imagine a suspension specialist could do some custom work though.


can the high speed compression shim stack be changed at home by a half decent mechanic with access to shims? I'm considering a ribbon coil, but I'm used to Manitou's ABS+ damper which is dead easy to swap shims on - no need to pull the lowers, just unscrew and pull the damper from the stanchion top, and then unscrew the bottom of the damper


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## hungmac123 (Jan 28, 2019)

i have the same trouble


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## Inclag (Jan 19, 2004)

Hey, would someone mind measuring the OD and free length of the Ribbon coil spring for me? Trying to assess cross compatibility with other forks and this isn't published anywhere from what I can tell. 

Also, brownie points if someone could assess the total stroke of the spring. It's gotta be over 170mm because off allowance and need to accept preload as well. If 180mm of compression is achievable, then MRP springs could be retrofitted into alot of older and newer forks as well which would be pretty cool since everyone started focussing on air 5 years ago.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Just mounted up my Ribbon Coil. Can someone help me with what brake adapter I need. Guide R brake caliper, 200mm rotor.

The fox 34 rhythm had a 40mm adapter, nothing lining up properly.

Is it this???

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/co...with-stainless-bolts-kits-for-regular-and-cps


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

escrowdog said:


> Just mounted up my Ribbon Coil. Can someone help me with what brake adapter I need. Guide R brake caliper, 200mm rotor.
> 
> The fox 34 rhythm had a 40mm adapter, nothing lining up properly.
> 
> ...


Yes, I think that's the one, but I haven't used SRAM brakes in awhile.

The Ribbon has a 180mm post mount.

This is what I use with my Shimano brakes:

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F203PPM-Disc-Brake-Adaptor-203mm-Rotor-74mm-Caliper-180mm-DM-Fork


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> Yes, I think that's the one, but I haven't used SRAM brakes in awhile.
> 
> The Ribbon has a 180mm post mount.
> 
> ...


Okay, that looks like the right size anyway! Thank you so much!


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Inclag said:


> Hey, would someone mind measuring the OD and free length of the Ribbon coil spring for me? Trying to assess cross compatibility with other forks and this isn't published anywhere from what I can tell.
> 
> Also, brownie points if someone could assess the total stroke of the spring. It's gotta be over 170mm because off allowance and need to accept preload as well. If 180mm of compression is achievable, then MRP springs could be retrofitted into alot of older and newer forks as well which would be pretty cool since everyone started focussing on air 5 years ago.


MRP Ribbon spring measures 314mm and 30mm OD. Push ASC3 spring 304 and 29mm ID. No brownie points for me.


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## bigcrs (Oct 27, 2008)

Hey Noah,

Regarding ramp control functionality, does air temperature affect the performance of the feature?


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## Xyzzy (Feb 14, 2004)

For someone who is new to suspension, would the Ribbon Coil be simpler to tune and maintain than the air version?

I need a 130mm fork for a Santa Cruz Chameleon hard tail. I'm drawn to the MRP based on the customer service I've seen in this thread.

I'm 230 pounds right now but once I get back on a bike I will be around 200. I am not (yet) an agressive rider so I most likely don't need a $1K fork, but I have enough in my build budget for it, so why not?


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Xyzzy said:


> For someone who is new to suspension, would the Ribbon Coil be simpler to tune and maintain than the air version?


I'd say as long as you get the appropriate spring in the fork from teh get-go... yeah. Probably easier to tune. All you do is set rebound and Ramp, then ride. I actually kept mine stock from the factory because it was set at "recommended" settings for my riding.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Xyzzy said:


> For someone who is new to suspension, would the Ribbon Coil be simpler to tune and maintain than the air version?
> 
> I need a 130mm fork for a Santa Cruz Chameleon hard tail. I'm drawn to the MRP based on the customer service I've seen in this thread.
> 
> I'm 230 pounds right now but once I get back on a bike I will be around 200. I am not (yet) an agressive rider so I most likely don't need a $1K fork, but I have enough in my build budget for it, so why not?


Oh my - yes. One thing I've found with coil suspension, assuming you have the correct spring rate, its much harder to make them feel bad compared to an air spring.

Talk to MRP directly regarding your weight and getting the right coil. Also, IMO, I think the Ribbon's compression damping is pretty heavy, so that should work for your weight. On almost every other fork/shock I own I'm running LSC at least 1/3 in from full open, whereas the Ribbon I run only 1 clicky.

Maintenance is easy on this thing so far. In general I find air spring much more finicky.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Any lighter riders having trouble using most of their travel on their Ribbon Air?

I’m 140/145 lbs
Current PSI: 50+/55-
Ramp control backed completely out
150mm travel 29er 

I’m using 70-75% travel (100-120mm out of 150mm). Still tuning the new fork on a new bike and overall the fork feels great. Has about 60 miles on it and I've definitely taken some big hits on it. In comparison I occasionally use 90% of travel on my shock (DVO topaz) and have bottomed it out once.

I understand that I shouldn’t be bottoming out often, especially on a 150 travel bike, but feel kind of disappointed that it seems like using ramp control is out of the question. Wondering if I should go lower psi? anything I can do for Special tune? Shut up and ride? Coil conversion (haha!)?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> Any lighter riders having trouble using most of their travel on their Ribbon Air?
> 
> I'm 140/145 lbs
> Current PSI: 50+/55-
> ...


I went to a lighter damper oil. Before 2/3 of the travel was amazing. But now I use all of the travel and I can use the ramp knob feels like the fork was made for me.

Same weight as you btw.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I went to a lighter damper oil. Before 2/3 of the travel was amazing. But now I use all of the travel and I can use the ramp knob feels like the fork was made for me.
> 
> Same weight as you btw.


What oil did you use for the damper?


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Xyzzy said:


> For someone who is new to suspension, would the Ribbon Coil be simpler to tune and maintain than the air version?
> 
> I need a 130mm fork for a Santa Cruz Chameleon hard tail. I'm drawn to the MRP based on the customer service I've seen in this thread.
> 
> I'm 230 pounds right now but once I get back on a bike I will be around 200. I am not (yet) an agressive rider so I most likely don't need a $1K fork, but I have enough in my build budget for it, so why not?


Keep an eye out for used forks as well, that's how I scored my Ribbon Coil. Yes, I would also agree with Miker J that it will be easier to maintain. I'm 215 with gear and found the medium spring perfect for what I'M after...which is trail soaking plushness. Was able to get correct sag with very little preload. If you're shopping used, know what length steering tube YOU need, minimum. The longer the better IMO that way you can just fill with spacers (within reason) and perhaps be able to transfer it to your next bike or have a more marketable fork if you pull it and resell it. Anyway, you can probably find one for $500 or less and with emphatic YES it's worth it...it's worth $1000.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Sid Duffman said:


> What oil did you use for the damper?


I won't recommend what I used because I need to see how it performs long term.

What I used was LHM+ a mineral oil used in older jaguars and BMW.

I use it in my brakes too it has better all weather properties then standard Shimano oil and costs $15 a liter.

The standard weight mrp uses is 5wt I would look for a 2.5wt to start with.

If you have any questions about bleeding the damper let me know.


----------



## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I went to a lighter damper oil. Before 2/3 of the travel was amazing. But now I use all of the travel and I can use the ramp knob feels like the fork was made for me.
> 
> Same weight as you btw.


ahh good Idea, I'll look into this. how involved is bleeding the damper? maybe I'll hold off until it needs servicing


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Xyzzy said:


> For someone who is new to suspension, would the Ribbon Coil be simpler to tune and maintain than the air version?
> 
> I need a 130mm fork for a Santa Cruz Chameleon hard tail. I'm drawn to the MRP based on the customer service I've seen in this thread.
> 
> I'm 230 pounds right now but once I get back on a bike I will be around 200. I am not (yet) an agressive rider so I most likely don't need a $1K fork, but I have enough in my build budget for it, so why not?


Glad you're interested!

One hole in your plan, however, is that the Ribbon Coil only goes down to 140mm (officially, I think you can get down a few more millimeters internally). But hey, why not 140mm on that Chameleon?


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

bigcrs said:


> Hey Noah,
> 
> Regarding ramp control functionality, does air temperature affect the performance of the feature?


Theoretically, I suppose. But I've never experienced it. I'll ask the engineers.

I think it (temperature) would affect other characteristics more obviously first.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> ahh good Idea, I'll look into this. how involved is ibleeding the damper? maybe I'll hold off until it needs servicing


Its not horrible the cap comes off with a cassette lockring tool.

You do have to make a bleed cup of some sort.
It can get a bit messy if it's your first time.
I got several money shots to the face ?.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

After talk of differing weights of bath oil and the resulting ride effects I have decided to go full retard.

I bought some vavloline 80w 90 gear oil to see how this extreme will work in the lowers.

Any thoughts or warnings?


----------



## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> After talk of differing weights of bath oil and the resulting ride effects I have decided to go full retard.
> 
> I bought some vavloline 80w 90 gear oil to see how this extreme will work in the lowers.
> 
> Any thoughts or warnings?


----------



## Xyzzy (Feb 14, 2004)

NoahColorado said:


> But hey, why not 140mm on that Chameleon?


Will I be able to do all of fork the maintenance on my own? (I am a mechanic IRL - What I mean is, is the fork end-user serviceable in every way? I'm not against sending it in for an overhaul every few years, but I think regular maintenance is a good idea. (Do people even keep bike stuff for years? This forum feels like every year people get new stuff! I don't think I could do that even if I could afford to!)

I know this is a dumb question to ask in a fork-specific thread, but: Is there any reason or odd scenario where a Ribbon Coil would be a bad purchase (for me) versus a Fox 34 or RS Pike or whatever fork? I don't yet have the technical knowledge to make an informed purchase so I have to rely on everybody else's experience.

Thanks!


----------



## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

gfourth said:


> Any lighter riders having trouble using most of their travel on their Ribbon Air?
> 
> I'm 140/145 lbs
> Current PSI: 50+/55-
> ...


I was about the same weight as you when I got mine and had the same struggle. I was running the same pressures. All I can suggest is don't take more pressure out, that made mine worse. I think the suggestion above about lighter oil sounds right. I'm not sure the factory set up for this fork is ideal for lighter riders. It felt great up to about 120, but I could never get into the last bit w/o taking out so much pressure that it started riding poorly from being so low in the travel.

I'm about 15is-lbs heavier now and running it at 168/178 with ramp at 7 or so. On a normal ride (no drops) I use 120ish but the last bit is there for oh crap moments.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ya I would say that's the one negative with the ribbon.
If the high speed compression is too much for you lighter oil is the only option ATM.

It doesn't use a Shim stack and no one to my knowledge is offering revalve services.

I used the video of the Stage damper bleed to get the jist of it.


----------



## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

To clarify, I was happy with it when I was lighter because it performed so well for how I needed it to, but just didn't use full travel. I'm sure I would of if I'd been the type to hit jumps etc.

Now that I'm heavier (and possibly more aggressive), I love it.


----------



## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Xyzzy said:


> Will I be able to do all of fork the maintenance on my own? (I am a mechanic IRL - What I mean is, is the fork end-user serviceable in every way? I'm not against sending it in for an overhaul every few years, but I think regular maintenance is a good idea. (Do people even keep bike stuff for years? This forum feels like every year people get new stuff! I don't think I could do that even if I could afford to!)
> 
> I know this is a dumb question to ask in a fork-specific thread, but: Is there any reason or odd scenario where a Ribbon Coil would be a bad purchase (for me) versus a Fox 34 or RS Pike or whatever fork? I don't yet have the technical knowledge to make an informed purchase so I have to rely on everybody else's experience.
> 
> Thanks!


I had a Fox 34 and tore it down, changed the station oil, greased, changed cartridge oil to lighter weight etc. As soon as I got my used Ribbon I pulled the lowers off, cleaned and serviced, had a look around. So basic service is super easy. There are videos of bleeding and topping off the cartridge, also looks straight forward. Can't imagine needing to completely open up the cartridge for any reason, but with the proper tools, again it's all pretty easy, especially with the videos.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Finally got a good 10 mile singletrack ride on the ribbon coil, ozarks up and down trail, embedded rocks, roots, some mashed potatoes to negotiate as it was thawing. The fork is absolute nirvana for my style of riding and terrain. I left it at 170mm as it came to me (vs the 150mm Fox fork I pulled off) it felt a bit floppy out front test riding around the house, so I flipped the chip on my Jeffsy. It is PERFECT. Never felt like I was riding too much travel, even on climbs and my bb is higher. The Rhythm I removed was mediocre at best but you had to ride the compression all the way open and I had cut the oil weight in half, still if you added any low speed clicks it just got harsh. The Ribbon however, I can actually use the clicker to add some support and still have compliance! REALLY glad not to have to worry about dicking around with air pressure now! Another note, even thought it's such a trail soaker I was pleasantly surprised that it still had enough "pop" for me.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Xyzzy said:


> Will I be able to do all of fork the maintenance on my own? (I am a mechanic IRL - What I mean is, is the fork end-user serviceable in every way? I'm not against sending it in for an overhaul every few years, but I think regular maintenance is a good idea. (Do people even keep bike stuff for years? This forum feels like every year people get new stuff! I don't think I could do that even if I could afford to!)
> 
> I know this is a dumb question to ask in a fork-specific thread, but: Is there any reason or odd scenario where a Ribbon Coil would be a bad purchase (for me) versus a Fox 34 or RS Pike or whatever fork? I don't yet have the technical knowledge to make an informed purchase so I have to rely on everybody else's experience.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, it's completely user serviceable. We are aiming to have more service documentation and instructions available to the public in the future, but for anything that's not already out, just give us a call.

That said, most people (in the US at least) just send in their forks and shocks for "overhaul" type service. It's relatively cheap and quick and you're guaranteed to get everything fixed and up-to-date. There's a benefit to having your fork serviced at a place that has all the parts on hand - theres nothing more frustrating that tearing something apart to find you don't have a necessary small part.

FWIW, we regularly get in 15-20 year old forks for service. People forget that we've been doing suspension for a long time (first as White Brothers). We're here to support our customers for the long haul!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

gfourth said:


> I'm using 70-75% travel (100-120mm out of 150mm). Still tuning the new fork on a new bike and overall the fork feels great. Has about 60 miles on it and I've definitely taken some big hits on it. In comparison I occasionally use 90% of travel on my shock (DVO topaz) and have bottomed it out once.


FWIW, your rear setup sounds stiff. It's not necessarily every ride that you should be getting full travel on your fork, but you should on your shock. Forks are 1:1 travel, whereas shocks are leveraged, so it's generally easier move them all the way through travel, even without a big hit. If your sag is correct, you might look at removing a volume spacer in your shock (if there are any).

As for your fork, there could be a lot of reasons you're not getting full travel. Perhaps you're just not positioned with sufficient weight on the front of the bike. How's the bar height and saddle-to-bar drop compare to your previous bike? Or maybe you're just getting used to your new setup and not fully up to speed. You could take a little more pressure out of the air spring and slightly increase the pos/neg difference, but you're getting near the minimum pressure settings.

The key thing is that you've said it feels great. There's no fooling feelings. Some people just don't have the combination of mass, riding style, and terrain to make use of Ramp Control. It should be looked at like any other adjustment though, people will prefer different doses of low-speed compression and rebound too.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

What's up with the obsession to use the last mm of travel. This is how I see it.
If the bike feels balanced (you know what I mean, front doesn't feels softer than front and the other way around) and smooth, it's all good.


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## scudrunner82 (Nov 18, 2015)

I'm building a Santa Cruz Nomad V4 and the big decision is what fork to go with... Need a 170-180mm travel fork. 
The Ribbon coil is near the top of the list, along with the Grip2 Fox and Lyrik. 
Sure seems like the MRP is getting great reviews. 

Quick question.... I see the MRP damper makes some "squish" noises. I'm pretty sensitive about bike noises, creaks and squeaks bother the heck out of me. Just how loud/annoying is it? Anyone have a video clip of the forks noise? My OCD is working overtime on this one... 
I'm about 160 pounds naked and ride moderately aggressive on a mix of chunky and flowy trails, with some bike park days planned here and there. 
Recommendations? If I go Ribbon do I go air or coil?
Thanks!!


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

scudrunner82 said:


> I'm building a Santa Cruz Nomad V4 and the big decision is what fork to go with... Need a 170-180mm travel fork.
> The Ribbon coil is near the top of the list, along with the Grip2 Fox and Lyrik.
> Sure seems like the MRP is getting great reviews.
> 
> ...


I kind of like the "squish" noise. It's not a "your bike sounds broken" noise, more of a hydraulic function sound. It's only on harder faster compression. But to me it's sort of a satisfying sound. 

Also, worldwide cyclery has a good video explaining the differences between the air and coil as it relates to what kind of rider might like a particular fork. Even at 210 lbs the coil has plenty of pop/rebound for ME, better overall aggro feel than the Fox Rhythm I removed. Again, I was personally looking for a trail soaker plush fork and I got that...but surprisingly it's a lot more than that for me.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> FWIW, your rear setup sounds stiff. It's not necessarily every ride that you should be getting full travel on your fork, but you should on your shock. Forks are 1:1 travel, whereas shocks are leveraged, so it's generally easier move them all the way through travel, even without a big hit. If your sag is correct, you might look at removing a volume spacer in your shock (if there are any).
> As for your fork, there could be a lot of reasons you're not getting full travel. Perhaps you're just not positioned with sufficient weight on the front of the bike. How's the bar height and saddle-to-bar drop compare to your previous bike? Or maybe you're just getting used to your new setup and not fully up to speed. You could take a little more pressure out of the air spring and slightly increase the pos/neg difference, but you're getting near the minimum pressure settings.
> The key thing is that you've said it feels great. There's no fooling feelings. Some people just don't have the combination of mass, riding style, and terrain to make use of Ramp Control. It should be looked at like any other adjustment though, people will prefer different doses of low-speed compression and rebound too.


Noah, thanks for your insight! I definitely was avoiding any knee jerk reactions. I wanted to get feelers on what others at my weight have experienced. I didn't plan on making any major tuning adjustments until:

A) &#8230; I fully adjusted to more travel, modern geo, bike fit, and adjusting my technique to the new bike. Lots of things are different so it's hard to judge the fork. The more recent change I did (shorter stem to keep myself more centered/less front weighted) probably too more weight off the already 2° slacker front end.

B) &#8230; the fork is fully broken in. As I put more miles on it, it's starting to feel smoother, especially as I just fiddle with rebound. Last ride I did use closer to full travel, albeit I think during a crash in steep terrain, and that was a moment where I wouldn't want the fork to be any softer. Right after I actually debated on dialing in a little RC or trying a couple more PSI air spring.

C) &#8230;. I get to a point where I'm dialing in the suspension holistically. 
The last point aligns with your suggestion that the shock maybe too stiff. Great point about leverage. The bike is a single pivot with a more linear kinematic. I started out with one spacer but it does seem to hit the wall early at 80% travel. Definitely worth trying without the spacer.

On my previous bike (trail 130/130 travel) I preferred no spacer in the shock and only one volume token in the Fox 34 Performance. So ideally on the MRP, given my weight and preference, I'm totally fine with the lower pressure, and no RC. Maybe 1-3 clicks of it on shuttle or really aggressive terrain would still be a huge benefit of the ramp feature.

For now I'm patiently getting familiar with the shock, and yes I'm still very happy with it. Especially with being able to speak to other tuners and MRP directly about any questions like this.
Thanks!


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

scudrunner82 said:


> I'm building a Santa Cruz Nomad V4 and the big decision is what fork to go with... Need a 170-180mm travel fork.
> The Ribbon coil is near the top of the list, along with the Grip2 Fox and Lyrik.
> Sure seems like the MRP is getting great reviews.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty bad about obsessing over every little sound and I don't notice the squish except for in the garage or if I'm actively listening for it.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

This is the lightest weight oil I could find.
https://www.bike24.com/p2284704.html

It comes in 1.5 , 3 , 5 , 7 and 10 wt.

Danico is the maker of bionol brake fluid.

Pretty expensive and only available from German online retailers.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> This is the lightest weight oil I could find.
> https://www.bike24.com/p2284704.html
> 
> It comes in 1.5 , 3 , 5 , 7 and 10 wt.
> ...


I like this stuff...

https://www.jensonusa.com/Maxima-Plush-Suspension-Fluid?_br_psugg_q=fork+oil

I used it in my fox 34 rhythm to soften things up a bit. I can't remember what is stock in the MRP? Having had my for apart to service the lowers and messing with the cartridge rod, the thing is buttery smooth as is. WAY more oil flowing through that than the Fox I worked on. Not sure I'd go TOO light on the oil vs what's stock.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

escrowdog said:


> I like this stuff...
> 
> https://www.jensonusa.com/Maxima-Plush-Suspension-Fluid?_br_psugg_q=fork+oil
> 
> I used it in my fox 34 rhythm to soften things up a bit. I can't remember what is stock in the MRP? Having had my for apart to service the lowers and messing with the cartridge rod, the thing is buttery smooth as is. WAY more oil flowing through that than the Fox I worked on. Not sure I'd go TOO light on the oil vs what's stock.


They use 5wt which is fine for most but when you get below 140lbs no one can tell me I'm getting the same experience as someone that is 170-220lbs.

I currently am running around .5-1.0wt if I had to guess

Rockshox is 2.5wt but I think the 1.5 I linked above will be perfect for me.

At current it is just a tiny bit underdamped I compensated with a little more pressure and then added just enough to the secondary chamber to eliminate the top out thunk.

At present it is the best fork I've ridden but I know it can be a little better still.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

gfourth said:


> For now I'm patiently getting familiar with the shock, and yes I'm still very happy with it. Especially with being able to speak to other tuners and MRP directly about any questions like this.
> Thanks!


Very good. Thanks for the feedback!


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

kiotae said:


> I'm pretty bad about obsessing over every little sound and I don't notice the squish except for in the garage or if I'm actively listening for it.


Same here. I have 2 MRP forks (Ribbon and Ribbon SL) that both made the squish noise when setting them up and riding around in my alley and neighborhood streets. But you know what? I've NEVER heard it while riding a trail.


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## scudrunner82 (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks for all the feedback guys!! That really helps me make my decision.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So I was reading a pinkbike article on adjustable offset crowns.
And I have been mulling the 39mm offset option.

Then an idea popped in my head of dropping my lowers and flipping my crown around for crazy low offset.

It's icy outside and I'm bored so I'm going to give it a try.


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## alan1 (Mar 22, 2007)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I was reading a pinkbike article on adjustable offset crowns.
> And I have been mulling the 39mm offset option.
> 
> Then an idea popped in my head of dropping my lowers and flipping my crown around for crazy low offset.
> ...


I did this by mistake took me a day to realize what I had done, didn't really notice much difference.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

With offset bushes and -1.5 angleset on my recluse I'm at 64 degree head angle I need to see if moving the contact patch reward will make difference getting weight on the front tire and therefore traction


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I like it and I won't be turning it back around.
It felt weird at first the sensation of auto steer a little bit.

Then I realized it's because my weight is on the contact patch unless I choose to unweighted the front.

I just ran around on it for a bit there is a parking lot next door with Kitty litter gravel.
I go there to work on flat cornering and just have fun drifting.
I can really tell the difference it's like on rails.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I like it and I won't be turning it back around.
> It felt weird at first the sensation of auto steer a little bit.
> 
> Then I realized it's because my weight is on the contact patch unless I choose to unweighted the front.
> ...


Did you deflate your fork and check for headtube+arch clearance? If not, you might do that so you don't have a bad time, mmmkay.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Did you deflate your fork and check for headtube+arch clearance? If not, you might do that so you don't have a bad time, mmmkay.


Plenty over an inch.

I did a rough measure of my trail and it's like 150mm lol.

But it just feels right to me. I was out on it again this morning in 17 degree weather because I couldn't wait to ride it again. The only way to describe it is to use that tired ass chiche "confidence inspiring".


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Are there any material differences in performance, except weight and ease of use, between quick release and tooled axle for Ribbon Coil/Air?


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Are there any material differences in performance, except weight and ease of use, between quick release and tooled axle for Ribbon Coil/Air?


Generally thru-axles just save a little weight for racing. The quick release for the Ribbon is awesome, adjusts like a traditional QR. I guess you could argue that a thru-axle can't catch on anything...but that's an unlikely scenario.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks, I will order QR then!


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Thanks, I will order QR then!


If you email or call MRP they are really good at answering questions. Probably easier to get an answer through them than posting on mtbr. They have excellent customer service.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

foggnm said:


> If you email or call MRP they are really good at answering questions. Probably easier to get an answer through them than posting on mtbr. They have excellent customer service.


True.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

foggnm said:


> If you email or call MRP they are really good at answering questions. Probably easier to get an answer through them than posting on mtbr. They have excellent customer service.


Couldn't agree more. Hence an order for Ribbon coil 



NoahColorado said:


> True.


Since you're here Noah, are you of the same view as Fog on the QR question?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Since you're here Noah, are you of the same view as Fog on the QR question?


Yeah, it all convenience and a little bit of weight, no performance implications.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Are there any material differences in performance, except weight and ease of use, between quick release and tooled axle for Ribbon Coil/Air?


Generally speaking, I prefer thru axles that require a tool for the rear, and some sort of lever on the front. Not so much for weight, but I get tired of banging the lever on stuff on the back of the bike, especially on my fatbike, and I don't really need to remove the rear wheel very often, anyway. The front gets removed more frequently, so having a lever there makes it FAR more convenient.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

@NoahColorado. I know you mentioned earlier in this thread you were evaluating the 29” chassis stiffness for 170mm of travel. Any possible updates now you’re on a Firebird 29”? Would love to be able to bump my 160mm coil to 170mm and throw on a SB150 or Firebird 29” frame.


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## 772268 (Jun 8, 2014)

Stupordave said:


> @NoahColorado. I know you mentioned earlier in this thread you were evaluating the 29" chassis stiffness for 170mm of travel. Any possible updates now you're on a Firebird 29"? Would love to be able to bump my 160mm coil to 170mm and throw on a SB150 or Firebird 29" frame.


I am interested in this as well. This would be great. Save me from needing to buy a Fox for a new bike of mine.


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## mactheknife (Feb 25, 2018)

Hi guys, I know this has probably been covered a few times but just looking for the recommended oil needed for ribbon coil lowers. I have run these forks for a good while now. Time for a wee spruce up. Cheers all.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

mactheknife said:


> Hi guys, I know this has probably been covered a few times but just looking for the recommended oil needed for ribbon coil lowers. I have run these forks for a good while now. Time for a wee spruce up. Cheers all.


I just use some 5w30 synthetic motor oil.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Do a quick search back a few pages and you’ll see 20+ comments on oil types. Many are recommending something a bit thicker than stock to smooth things out.


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## mactheknife (Feb 25, 2018)

Ace, thanks for that 😁


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## Adodero (Jul 16, 2009)

I have a Ribbon Air 29 w/ 46mm offset if anyone is looking to get one, send me a PM.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Has anyone done damper service yet?

I have a season on my ribbon and feel like its probably a good idea?


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

phazedalx said:


> Has anyone done damper service yet?
> 
> I have a season on my ribbon and feel like its probably a good idea?


Somebody mentioned it before. Mine has got 2 already, haven't done the research but I will rather send it for service.

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

*The importance of an accurate shock pump*

*If you don't have an accurate digital shock pump I strongly suggest you get one for use with your Ribbon Air. *

I honestly feel like the Ribbon should come with a digital pump. At the very least it should be suggested heavily in the manual, and it should be the first question we ask of those who come into thread asking for trouble shooting advice.

I know this is a huge 'duh' but I thought I could get away with my normal analog shock pump. Sure if you are using the same shock pump consistently then the actual baseline numbers don't matter- but I am on the low end of the spectrum at 145lb rider weight. I thought I was running min pressure and was afraid to go below 50psi. Apparently my old analog shock was off by 10psi. In reality I had 60-65 psi and a lot more lower end freedom available.

The suggested plush pressures are 58+/63- for my weight. After fiddling that in with the digital gauge I now realize there was no way in hell I was accurately doing that with my analog gauge. The fork feels plush! Change it to 58+/59.5-, a mere difference of 3.5psi and it feels neutral and more supportive! I'm not sure if this is related but now the clicks of compression actually make a noticeable difference with the right air pressures! I wouldn't be surprised if the previously untouched ramp control will actually come into play now.

It feels like a completely different dialed in fork. I was starting to become frustrated with juggling the +/- chambers. I was so close to giving up and just doing the coil conversion or doing something drastic like damper bleed or trying to get a custom tune.


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## otsdr (Nov 15, 2009)

The minimum pressure is zero, you were nowhere near that. The numbers offerred by the manufacturer are just a guideline for the users convenience (and sometimes hurt more than help). 

As long as you use a repeatable pump (shows the same thing given the same pressure) in a fixed setting (a living space can be considered "constant temperature" more or less), the numbers themselves don't matter.


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

Riding different Rockshox and Fox Forks in the Past. Last Week i changed my 2014 Pike140/46(upgraded with Green SKF Seels, Debon Air and Charger 2 Catridge) to a Ribbon Air 140/46.
OMG, what a difference with the Ribbon.. Sensibility, small Pumps, big Pumps, Steps....simply in the recommended Basic Settings like a Dream!
The only Thing for me could be better is the LSC in Mode 8. I wished is was more "locked out"...
Is there a Chance to give this Fork more LSC in the closed(firm) Lever Position. 

Congratulations and thanks from Switzerland to the whole MRP Team for this Product! :thumbsup:


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

otsdr said:


> The minimum pressure is zero, you were nowhere near that. The numbers offerred by the manufacturer are just a guideline for the users convenience (and sometimes hurt more than help).
> 
> As long as you use a repeatable pump (shows the same thing given the same pressure) in a fixed setting (a living space can be considered "constant temperature" more or less), the numbers themselves don't matter.


No one is running their fork with 0psi. I thought I was at 50/55 and I came in here asking for advice. Seeing as those numbers are ballpark suggestions for a 130# rider the natural advice I got (practical advice from Noah, experienced riders with ribbons, not just manufacturer) was "you probably shouldn't go lower- you're probably sitting so far deep in travel that's why you're experiencing harshness, sometimes rider style, HA, etc means you don't get full travel, etc". If I would've said I was at 60/65 I would've got more accurate advice. There is nothing wrong with having a more accurate frame of reference- especially when you are on the low or high end of the spectrum. Ie: if I was 170 lbs with 70/78psi the advice would've been different.

Another example would be my DVO topaz- the air bladder has a small window of acceptable PSI (170-200). If I were a heavy rider, who is supposed to use 200psi, I would've been putting 210-215psi into the air bladder exceeding it's capacity.

My other point is that there is a noticeable difference between plush and neutral, and at my weight that is a 3psi difference in the negative chamber. An accurate digital pump makes a huge difference over traditional analog pump in this case. For my friends who have suspension with auto balancing +/- chambers I'd think a digital shock is overkill. In fact I gave my old one to a buddy who is didn't get one with his Rockshox equipped bike. A ribbon air benefits from an accurate gauge.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

gfourth said:


> My other point is that there is a noticeable difference between plush and neutral, and at my weight that is a 3psi difference in the negative chamber. An accurate digital pump makes a huge difference over traditional analog pump in this case. For my friends who have suspension with auto balancing +/- chambers I'd think a digital shock is overkill. In fact I gave my old one to a buddy who is didn't get one with his Rockshox equipped bike. A ribbon air benefits from an accurate gauge.


I agree! I've been advocating for the Giyo / Venzo digital pumps you can get on Amazon for $39 for awhile. They are the exact same thing (minus logos) as the digital pumps from other suspension manufacturers for 50-100% more moolah.

I recently discovered the "mini" version of these and have been happy with them so far. Way nicer to carry with you and the smaller chamber lets you fill the negative chamber in finer increments. :thumbsup:


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

zweigelt said:


> Riding different Rockshox and Fox Forks in the Past. Last Week i changed my 2014 Pike140/46(upgraded with Green SKF Seels, Debon Air and Charger 2 Catridge) to a Ribbon Air 140/46.
> OMG, what a difference with the Ribbon.. Sensibility, small Pumps, big Pumps, Steps....simply in the recommended Basic Settings like a Dream!
> The only Thing for me could be better is the LSC in Mode 8. I wished is was more "locked out"...
> Is there a Chance to give this Fork more LSC in the closed(firm) Lever Position.
> ...


That's awesome! Thanks.

We build the Ribbon SL with firmer compression valving, we could tune the Ribbon Air in-house like that as well. An experience suspension service center could make the modifications as well, but I'd defer to our service manager on the ins and outs of doing so (and what parts would be needed).


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

gfourth said:


> A ribbon air benefits from an accurate gauge.


 Definitely agree. I bought a lezyne shock digital floor drive on sale when I purchased my ribbon air. In addition to the digital measures, it also allows me to pump with just a few strokes (and then use the release valve to bring the pressure down). I also like the no air loss chuck. An expensive pump, but if you use a 20% coupon during a sale....well worth it.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

foggnm said:


> Definitely agree. I bought a lezyne shock digital floor drive on sale when I purchased my ribbon air. In addition to the digital measures, it also allows me to pump with just a few strokes (and then use the release valve to bring the pressure down). I also like the no air loss chuck. An expensive pump, but if you use a 20% coupon during a sale....well worth it.


Interesting, I'd be worried about the big air chamber driving your negative pressure way too high on a single pump. Any experience with that?


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

NoahColorado said:


> ..... but I'd defer to our service manager on the ins and outs of doing so (and what parts would be needed).


that would be great! Thank you!


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Interesting, I'd be worried about the big air chamber driving your negative pressure way too high on a single pump. Any experience with that?


The negative does fill up faster with the floor shock pump but you don't have to do a full pump. You can do a 1/10 pump or a full pump or something in between. On the negative chamber and on my shock, I tend to use little mini strokes....but still much easier than 50 strokes of a hand pump. You get a feel for how small or large a stroke to use pretty quickly. I've never overinflated anything by more than maybe 15psi and it is easy to bleed off the excess in small increments. What would take minutes with a hand pump takes seconds. I still have a hand pump for when I need something portable, but haven't used it in months.


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

I looked through some of this thread and tried a half-ass search. I just picked up a Ripmo with a Ribbon Coil on it. If I get the spring rate correct (looks like yellow for my weight - about 170 with gear) do I worry at all about sag with the coil? Is there any way to adjust it other than preload? If anything I may still not have enough with the softer spring, but don't think I would want to do the really soft spring.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Tronner said:


> I looked through some of this thread and tried a half-ass search. I just picked up a Ripmo with a Ribbon Coil on it. If I get the spring rate correct (looks like yellow for my weight - about 170 with gear) do I worry at all about sag with the coil? Is there any way to adjust it other than preload? If anything I may still not have enough with the softer spring, but don't think I would want to do the really soft spring.


You definitely want to be in the ballpark of at least 10-20% sag. Aside from preload, no, there is no way to change this other than a spring swap. The spring chart is at best a representation. Sag % is influenced by so many things (like bike geometry, body position, etc.), but weight and spring rate are the biggest factors.

Be sure to set sag in the "attack" position - mimicking active riding and descending. It's also good to have a buddy to help so you can give the front and rear a couple bounces and allow the suspension to rebound before checking o-ring positions.


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> You definitely want to be in the ballpark of at least 10-20% sag. Aside from preload, no, there is no way to change this other than a spring swap. The spring chart is at best a representation. Sag % is influenced by so many things (like bike geometry, body position, etc.), but weight and spring rate are the biggest factors.
> 
> Be sure to set sag in the "attack" position - mimicking active riding and descending. It's also good to have a buddy to help so you can give the front and rear a couple bounces and allow the suspension to rebound before checking o-ring positions.


Perfect. Thanks Noah!


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## DirtMerchantBicycles (May 23, 2014)

FYI, all Ribbon Coil forks come with 3 springs: soft, medium, firm. You can also request to have extra soft, soft, medium...or medium, firm, extra firm.

Edit: Whoops, I now see the fork came with the bike.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Anyone know the amount of bath oil for Ribbon air?


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

https://mrpbike.com/products/ribbon-29

On the 'set up' tab there's a video on changing the travel and they say 15cc both legs.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Thanks.


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## spin4spin (Aug 27, 2015)

any chance for a damper service video in the near future?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

spin4spin said:


> any chance for a damper service video in the near future?


Yes, it's top of the needs list.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

It's pretty much like the stage video. But there's is a alloy cylinder that the damper top cap threads into that can back out upon disassembly make sure that is screwed down or the top cap will not be able to thread on.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Hence an order for Ribbon coil


 I have the coil and the air. I love them both. Good choice!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I have a air leak in the small bottom chamber.
I took it apart looked at the seals looked good so I slathered them in honey and put it back together still leaks.
I tightened the air core also still leaking.
The harder I hit things faster it leaks.

I'm probably going to convert to coil anyway but if anyone has ideas they are welcome to share.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I have a air leak in the small bottom chamber.
> I took it apart looked at the seals looked good so I slathered them in honey and put it back together still leaks.
> I tightened the air core also still leaking.
> The harder I hit things faster it leaks.
> ...


Seal head or scratch on the ID of the stanchion.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Got mine in coil for a 29er. Really impressed with the quality of finish. Sadly a few more days before taking it out to the trails.
However I'm still stuck with Fox X2 in the back. Noah could you hurry up with "rumored" new air shock. I can even pre-order it


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So I'm going to do coil conversion my only question is if the xsoft spring will be too stiff for me.

I have read here guys going 150-160 on them pretty much wide open if I remember correctly.

With this swap I will also be going with Danico bionol 3wt in the damper.
So I'm asking what is the best way to get the old damper oil out? I know to drain it but do I need to "wash" it out with some sort of solution?


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I'm going to do coil conversion my only question is if the xsoft spring will be too stiff for me.
> 
> I have read here guys going 150-160 on them pretty much wide open if I remember correctly.
> 
> ...


How much do you weigh?

I'm 140 lbs, and more of a "floaty" rider than a "smashy" one. On my 160mm fork with stock damper fluid, I find the Xsoft a little too soft and divey, so I add some LSC, preload, and crank up the ramp control. Never bottom out harshly, will use full travel if I land nose heavy on a buck to flat.

The soft spring with everything wide open feels firm but good and controlled. Though I tend to leave about 2+ inches of travel on the table. Next time I open up the fork, I'm gonna go with the soft spring and change the damper oil to a 2.5 wt. hoping that will be the Goldilocks set-up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hardtail party (Oct 12, 2012)

Has anyone experience their ribbon getting harsher after an hour or so on chunky terrain? I've used the pppst valves, and they release pressure, but I find more arm pump at the end of a chunky ride vs other forks I've ridden.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I'm 140 and already ordered the xsoft we'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the insight.


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## matther01 (Mar 18, 2018)

Anyone set up their Ribbon to run Hope E4s with 200mm SRAM centreline rotors?

Having massive issues with the rotor fouling the bottom of the caliper even with the correct Hope mount and even when properly centred.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

hardtail party said:


> Has anyone experience their ribbon getting harsher after an hour or so on chunky terrain? I've used the pppst valves, and they release pressure, but I find more arm pump at the end of a chunky ride vs other forks I've ridden.


If it actually changes (vs. you just accumulating fatigue), you've got an issue. If your PSST valves (especially on the spring side) are audibly releasing air on a regular basis, your negative spring is leaking.

Other culprit could be spring setup, either too firm or more likely too soft. If your fork is too soft, you lose support and end up sitting in the progressive part of the stroke for a lot of the time (especially descending). This wears YOU out. Then, sometimes people go even softer trying to chase that harshness in the completely wrong direction.

Another thing could be too much rebound damping. Maybe try running it a click or two faster than you would otherwise and see the results?


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## hardtail party (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks for the info Noah. I'm probably running my rebound too fadt, if anything. Maybe I'll try slowing it down.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

hardtail party said:


> Has anyone experience their ribbon getting harsher after an hour or so on chunky terrain?


 I have not experienced that. I find I'm much less fatigued using my Ribbon than I was on my 36. And I live in a very chunky area (southwest, high desert). If I was in your situation, I'd probably start fresh from the manual recommendations and go from there. I found that the recommended settings and scenarios are actually pretty accurate. I started with the air settings for my weight in the 'plush' mode and the appropriate rebound and then tweaked the ramp control and LSC on the trail.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Just finished coil conversion. Two things..

I might just be a dumbass but it took awhile to figure out the spring side top cap presses on I was trying to unscrew it and getting pissed lol.

Also I saw nothing in the instructions or video about the little black washer included? I guessed that it fit between top cap and spring hope I'm right.

Edit: ok a problem went to back off ramp up knob and it is clicking but seems to have infinite turns.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Just finished coil conversion. Two things..
> 
> I might just be a dumbass but it took awhile to figure out the spring side top cap presses on I was trying to unscrew it and getting pissed lol.
> 
> ...


take off the lowers and look up the stancion - i'd bet it threaded itself up the rod outside the reach of the adjuster. I had that happen.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Thanks I'll check that out.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

is it easier to bottom the fork out in a neutral +/- air spring setting?

I gave up the 'I need to use full travel' phase and started pursuing a more supportive/linear ride. Added 16% more air and in a neutral setting. Fork feels absolutely amazing now- still plush off the top and much more efficient use of the mid stroke. I surprisingly bottomed it out on a steep roll in/drop. I'm wondering if more air in the negative chamber can prevent the positive chamber from bottoming out as easily? 

Anyway I felt like a big boy dialing in some ramp, and will probably add a little more air. I think the previous years of suspension has brainwashed us into being afraid of too much air. I'm finding that the latest suspension can take a lot of air, be truly linear, supportive, poppy, playful yet still be planted and supple. We are living in the golden age boys.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Anyone around ~180 lbs riding an Xtra firm spring?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ok so after doing coil conversion and rebleeding with bionol 3wt I'm sitting right at 20% sag with maximum preload @ 145lbs on xsoft spring.

Fork is very supple and active. Haven't gone on a real ride yet though doing that tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure I got a good bleed though I did not have the tool. So I just took the screw out of the damper top cap screwed the top cap on.(after I had used a plastic tube taped to the fork filled with oil added oil cycled till no more bubbles.)

I then saw that the oil flowed through the screw hole like on a brake bleed I then replaced bleed screw.

The rebound seems to be slower I have it all the way backed off but feels perfect there.

I think the bleed is good doesn't seem to be any play.

Noticed my spring side was letting in bath oil I'm assuming this is connected to having infinite turns on the ramp up knob.

What would be the sure sign I got a good bleed?


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## luisgutierod (Sep 9, 2015)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ok so after doing coil conversion and rebleeding with bionol 3wt I'm sitting right at 20% sag with maximum preload @ 145lbs on xsoft spring.
> 
> Fork is very supple and active. Haven't gone on a real ride yet though doing that tomorrow.
> 
> ...


I feel like the rebound of the coil, since it goes to a relaxed state (or almost to, when there is preload) at full extension is way different than air, and thats part of what makes it ride so damn good (initial suppleness)..


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

luisgutierod said:


> I feel like the rebound of the coil, since it goes to a relaxed state (or almost to, when there is preload) at full extension is way different than air, and thats part of what makes it ride so damn good (initial suppleness)..


EXACTLY! Was messing with mine in the garage yesterday, playing with preload, as I've been losing weight. What I've found is setting rider sag is almost requires you to ride the bike and see how it's holding you up, seems in a static balance against the wall the coil supports you at a reasonable sag level, and preload doesn't seem like it's making a difference until you push hard on the bars hard or go bounce on the driveway to feel what it's done to mid stroke.

The other observation I made (and what you are describing) is there is actually a few mm of actual "free sag" where the bike sags under it's own weight slightly vs. tight at full extension like an air spring. Wondering if the rear coils sit similarly? Super hard to achieve considering there is not much bike weight vs rider weight to work with. But it makes a huge difference in that initial small bump feel as well as skipping over stuff at higher speed, there is always a little "play" right at full extension so it's effortless to move the fork when the next object hits. Running a 2.6 DHF at 13 to 14 lbs...it is nirvana.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

gfourth said:


> *is it easier to bottom the fork out in a neutral +/- air spring setting?*
> 
> I gave up the 'I need to use full travel' phase and started pursuing a more supportive/linear ride. Added 16% more air and in a neutral setting. Fork feels absolutely amazing now- still plush off the top and much more efficient use of the mid stroke. I surprisingly bottomed it out on a steep roll in/drop. I'm wondering if more air in the negative chamber can prevent the positive chamber from bottoming out as easily?
> 
> Anyway I felt like a big boy dialing in some ramp, and will probably add a little more air. I think the previous years of suspension has brainwashed us into being afraid of too much air. I'm finding that the latest suspension can take a lot of air, be truly linear, supportive, poppy, playful yet still be planted and supple. We are living in the golden age boys.


as to your first question - what was your baseline to which you are comparing? you said 16% more air but before & after numbers would give me a little more context. did you change any damping settings or ramp control prior to those impressions?

if you had equal +/- before and equal now, but just more air pressure, initial stroke may be similar but mid stroke should be better supported. end of stroke obviously is affected a lot by ramp control (that's the entire point of the feature) but more air will make it a little harder to bottom.

initial stroke is heavily affected by the +/- balance. I messed with mine a whole lot when I first got the fork and landed on quite a bit more negative. equal was pretty harsh IMO and greater positive surely isn't used by anyone unless they are enduro racing and doing a lot of high power standing efforts.

anyway, after I got the fork feeling the way I liked, I simply checked travel or if I felt any harsh bottom then I added ramp control. my specific settings are at home, but honestly, they probably don't help anyone very much given we have different bikes, different weight, different trails, different riding styles. I think this discussion is much more useful to try to optimize each others' forks like you're doing, than to compare settings.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

ColinL said:


> as to your first question - what was your baseline to which you are comparing? you said 16% more air but before & after numbers would give me a little more context. did you change any damping settings or ramp control prior to those impressions?
> 
> if you had equal +/- before and equal now, but just more air pressure, initial stroke may be similar but mid stroke should be better supported. end of stroke obviously is affected a lot by ramp control (that's the entire point of the feature) but more air will make it a little harder to bottom.
> 
> ...


Sure, some common previous settings I've tried according to my spreadsheet:
*64+/68-
*60+/65-
58+/63-
55+/60-
50+/55-
Current 58+/59.5-

The numbers with asterisks are approximated with my old shock pump- it was reading 10psi lower than it was giving, and it was an analog pump. I did notice better results with an accurate shock pump, especially given the how close the neutral/plush setting are from each other with lighter weight rider. Always with ramp control backed out, usually 1-3 clicks of compression, rebound would be around 12-14 depending on how low pressures I was running.

With any of the plush settings I found vagueness (only word I can accurately describe) throughout the stroke. When I tried neutral settings (current setting 58+/59.5-) for the first time it felt completely different. I suspect that it's better to err towards equal pressure than to have too much of a discrepancy between +/- chambers when you are running lower air pressures.

However there were two different changes that probably had more of an effect: flipping the bike over and letting the seals soak in oil (fork has about 200 miles on it), and adding a lot of air to the DVO Topaz to make the bike much more playful and supportive- I was running too much sag and I think the shock was taking the brunt of forces. Now, the fork feels great- actually more plush, moves through the travel with good support, compliant, no stiction. So I'd like to think it's the neutral setting but looks to be a combo of many things.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

evan9r said:


> Anyone around ~180 lbs riding an Xtra firm spring?


I'm 185 and think I'm on a medium - it's whatever came stock, using a 160 fork, I'm at the LOW end the table on MRP website:

https://mrpbike.com/products/ribbon-coil-29

Xtra firm, pending how much travel you have, is for somebody 250lbs +. No matter how hard you ride, I can't see what working well for you. I can override the fork a bit when I am really pushing it, I could *maybe* see going up to a firm if I was racing hard all the time for some extra support and big g-outs, but I'd think you'd lose quite a bit of the suppleness that comes with a coil.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

I was just curious because I can bottom my firm spring on a 3 ft drop even with full ramp control and 4 clicks of compression. My preload is around 18-20%. This is on a Ripmo, running 160mm of travel. Trail wise it feels fairly supportive and certainly not plush. Im thinking Ill just add more lsc and live with it.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Currently riding the coil at 150mm, soft spring @ 170lbs. Full ramp, 4 turns of preload and still bottom on most drops over a few feet. That said, it's also a little stiffer/pogo-stick like than I thought it would be early in the travel, so not exactly the supple coil feel I had expected.

Thinking of going to the medium for more support and hoping to get away with less preload and ramp control to open up the top stroke a bit. Just strange that it's stiff at the top and not supportive enough at the bottom, anyone else have this issue?


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Any heavier/faster/talented riders got a soft/yellow spring laying around that they want to sell? For science...


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

gfourth said:


> Sure, some common previous settings I've tried according to my spreadsheet:
> *64+/68-
> *60+/65-
> 58+/63-
> ...


Soaking the foam rings by placing the bike upside down is pretty minor assuming you have a good amount of fresh bath oil. It should not make any difference.

I looked in my logs. I'm running 75+ 79- assuming my shock pump is accurate and precise, which may not be the case. I am 180 geared up and the bike geometry and your riding position does matter. My shock was decent before, but after Vorsprung tuned it, it's noticeably smoother than my ribbon air.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kaparzo said:


> Currently riding the coil at 150mm, soft spring @ 170lbs. Full ramp, 4 turns of preload and still bottom on most drops over a few feet. That said, it's also a little stiffer/pogo-stick like than I thought it would be early in the travel, so not exactly the supple coil feel I had expected.
> 
> Thinking of going to the medium for more support and hoping to get away with less preload and ramp control to open up the top stroke a bit. Just strange that it's stiff at the top and not supportive enough at the bottom, anyone else have this issue?


I'd think a soft spring for 150mm fork at 170lbs would be a little soft, but people are all over the board with their preferences.

Preload raises the amount of force required to initiate travel. If you looked at it on a graph, instead of originating from the intersection of the X and Y axis, the plot would begin further up the Y axis. In a way, preloading the coil fork is like reducing the pos/neg pressure balance in our air forks.

Coil definitely has a different feel from air, one I've often described as "sporty." It's more supportive, active, and rides higher. It's honestly a revelation on very rough, sustained descents.

I'd suggest trying the medium spring.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

NoahColorado said:


> I'd think a soft spring for 150mm fork at 170lbs would be a little soft, but people are all over the board with their preferences.
> 
> Preload raises the amount of force required to initiate travel. If you looked at it on a graph, instead of originating from the intersection of the X and Y axis, the plot would begin further up the Y axis. In a way, preloading the coil fork is like reducing the pos/neg pressure balance in our air forks.
> 
> ...


Thanks Noah, I'm definitely still adjusting my expectations and ride habits to fit the suspension and new bike (GG Smash). Going to try a medium spring and adjusting to 160mm as well, backing off preload and see how things feel. I definitely like it at speed.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Did conversion to coil xsoft, 3wt damper oil, zero preload zero ramp* and rebound wide open. I'm 145lbs right now.

With the above setting sitting at 164.5 mm travel I use all but 5 mm of travel most of the time using 85%.

Took it out to my favorite trail Tuesday and despite crashing due partially to my xt brakes wandering bite point. I still set my pr on it. Bike feels like I'm riding a cat now.

The coil is more then just supple it the overall behavior of it..just less harsh everywhere doesn't rebound explosively like air does I mean I have me rebound wide open I never have my rebound wide open on any fork.

The * is because my kit didn't come with a part needed to make the ramp adjust work. Mrp we're everything I hoped and sent the part out for free Tuesday and it will be here today.

Now on to saving for some Trickstuff brakes maybe the last brakes I buy.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Did conversion to coil xsoft, 3wt damper oil, zero preload zero ramp* and rebound wide open. I'm 145lbs right now.
> 
> With the above setting sitting at 164.5 mm travel I use all but 5 mm of travel most of the time using 85%.
> 
> ...


And the best part (and most unexpected coming from air for decades) was the support ALL THE WAY through the travel. Supple and supportive? YES, PLEASE!!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Now that I feel my bike is dialed I ask has anybody tried fitting a 29in front wheel into a 27.5 Ribbon?

Just would like to know the amount of clearance it might have.

Thanks.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> The * is because my kit didn't come with a part needed to make the ramp adjust work. Mrp we're everything I hoped and sent the part out for free Tuesday and it will be here today.


which part is missing? Just wondering because I have my conversion kit sitting on my shop table.

Going to be converting my 150mm 29" from air to coil. I'm your weight, and trying a soft spring first.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

gfourth said:


> which part is missing? Just wondering because I have my conversion kit sitting on my shop table.
> 
> Going to be converting my 150mm 29" from air to coil. I'm your weight, and trying a soft spring first.


I just got it in the mail 5 mins ago. It's a little alloy piece with threads on the outside and hex in the inside that the footnut ramp needle fits into it is threaded into the bottom of the stanchion rod on the coils side.

Don't think I need it though and won't install immediately I've had my lowers off far too many times to go through the process right now.


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## lachman (Jan 29, 2019)

I've just fitted a coil fork to my 2018 Jekyll that had 2017 fox 36 performance on it from new. 

I'm not very particular with my bike set up but I can't believe how much of a difference it has made. I can ride everything a lot faster and with a lot more confidence. My hands would get so sore after 3 laps at the bike park with the fox 36 that I'd have to go home or go very slow to hang on on any more laps.

The only downside is I now have to upgrade my brakes and rear shock that are now overwhelmed with the new found speed.


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## Harold (Dec 23, 2003)

I have a few rides in on the Ribbon air 140 on my Pedalhead.

I'm quite impressed with the fork. I'm using the pressures and rebound recommendations on the setup guide for a 190lbs rider and have been tweaking the compression and Ramp Control a bit to fine-tune things. Right now I'm at 3 clicks of compression and 1 click of Ramp Control and I think I've found a combination I like for mellower trails with occasional rowdy bits, at least.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

It's sweet isn't it.
Couldn't be happier with my Ribbon Air 140 after ditching the RS Pile RCT3.

Just a tip. Try all the extremes when it comes to pos/neg spring combos to really get a feel for the range of settings you can get from this fork. It's super versatile. 
I'm running it super plush with Neg pressure = Pos +10% (as in 100/110 psi for example). ~4 clicks of Ramp, 3 clicks compression, rebound at slightly faster than 'factory' (don't remember the clicks).


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

Just going to say that after taking plenty of time to test different settings that I love this fork. I'm ~140lbs geared up and ride aggressively. I ended up setting the pressure at 75 in the positive and 76 in the negative. Rebound is 13 clicks from closed and compression is all the way out. Still has small bump sensitivity but tons of mid stroke support. The fork travel is also 140mm on length.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

dcbmx435 said:


> Just going to say that after taking plenty of time to test different settings that I love this fork. I'm ~140lbs geared up and ride aggressively. I ended up setting the pressure at 75 in the positive and 76 in the negative. Rebound is 13 clicks from closed and compression is all the way out. Still has small bump sensitivity but tons of mid stroke support. The fork travel is also 140mm on length.


After spending tons of time tuning both my Topaz and Ribbon air I have to agree with you on your higher pressure settings. I'm 145 pounds, and I wouldn't classify myself as the fastest or most aggressive. *I found that going up in spring rate, though counter-intuitive (especially for lighter riders), yielded the best results* for a number of reasons:

The advantage of latest generation suspension is how supple they can be off the top due to larger negative chambers, less friction, etc. This means *you can run higher spring rates yet still have suppleness* in the beginning of the stroke. Give it a try. I pumped 20-30% more air into my Topaz and ribbon and both still sagged about 2-3mm just from bike weight.

With higher spring rates *you get mid-stroke support!* With a strong mid stroke I get liveliness- some may use this to be poppy/playful. And some will think "I don't need that, that's not my riding style- give me plush". But I found it gave me so much more control over my new long slack modern geo bike (which felt like a boat under sprung). I could make subtle weight shifts and load the bike and the bike would respond and now go where I wanted.

Mid stroke support is an *efficient use of travel*. Some may mistake this for harshness (especially in the car park test). But what I learned is now my bike has more travel to quickly dissipate hits, and keep me rolling forward. My estimate is it feels like from 35% to 60% of travel the bike is handling most smaller to medium size hits. That leaves the last 60% to 90% it handles the larger hits. Under-sprung I'd wallow and waste the first 35% - 50% (what can be easily mistaken for "plushness") of travel and then all hits were being handled in the last 50-100% where there is more of a spike with the air spring. And if you're depending on the last bit of travel you're getting hung up more, the ride is harsher, and it really saps speed from your ride.

Another advantage is that I get faster rebound, the damper feels like oil is flowing more freely, the compression adjustment makes more of a noticeable difference. All because I'm using a spring rate closer to what the fork was optimized for.

From my experience *if you have to run gobs of LSC, crank up the ramp control, or use excessive volume spacers- don't! Instead try going up in spring rate (more air or stiffer spring).* IMO those are band aid fixes to be used sparingly. It really seems counter intuitive be pumping 10-20% more air but you'll get better performance and a much smoother/faster ride by letting a higher spring rate handle initial, middle, and end stroke- even if it means you rarely touch the last 15-20% of travel. Remember unlike suspension of yesteryear you'll still get suppleness off the top.

I went from the shallow depths of 50+/55- hell and getting into the 60's and more of a neutral setting. I imagine I would've settled in the high 60's low 70's. I jumped the gun and went with the coil conversion. In between the x-soft and soft spring I went with soft. I don't regret it one bit- it's been a revelation to have the stiffer linear spring (review to come).


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

The reason I went with an air spring over coil was the adjustability. As you stated, there are a lot of benefits to increased air pressure for aggressive riders. On the other hand there are many benefits to the lower pressures for the non aggressive riders. Also, my perspective is from a light weight rider. A heavier rider may have a better setup with lower pressures as the damping may be better suited to their weight. In the end I'm happy with this forks feel, really changed my bike. Now I'm just looking for a similar style rear shock but that's for a different thread.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

MRP indicated they are working on a new rear air shock.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

I wish there something out there on timeline with the new air shock. I'm building up two GG bikes real soon. Running a Ribbon on both, would love a matching air rear. Might go Hazzard or Push on one of them.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

jmvdigital said:


> I wish there something out there on timeline with the new air shock. I'm building up two GG bikes real soon. Running a Ribbon on both, would love a matching air rear. Might go Hazzard or Push on one of them.


yes heard at sea otter last year it might come out in 2018 sometime. still no timeline though


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

I'd look at the topaz. Air bladder instead of IFP, larger negative chamber... I've had a lot of success tuning in a lot of mid stroke support, keeping it relatively linear, and still supple off the top. Also, highly tunable via spacers or shim stack.


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

I'm currently debating on a cane creek dbair il or the MRP Hazzard but if MRP comes out with an air shock I'd go with it


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## endo_alley (May 28, 2013)

I am considering an air ribbon 170mm for a Pivot Mach 6 frame. I know there are a couple of options for fork offset. 39mm, 44mm. Does anybody have information as to which might be preferable? I hear a lot about advantage to shorter offset forks. But nothing definitive.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

endo_alley said:


> I am considering an air ribbon 170mm for a Pivot Mach 6 frame. I know there are a couple of options for fork offset. 39mm, 44mm. Does anybody have information as to which might be preferable? I hear a lot about advantage to shorter offset forks. But nothing definitive.


The shorter offset trend is the new hotness for 29" wheels which normally came in 51mm offset and made them feel floppy and handle weird. For 27.5" 39mm or 44mm have been standard offsets.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

gfourth said:


> The shorter offset trend is the new hotness for 29" wheels which normally came in 51mm offset and made them feel floppy and handle weird. For 27.5" 39mm or 44mm have been standard offsets.


Knolly spelled it out pretty well on their site:
_Fork offset for the Fugitive

Recently there has been a lot of talk about fork offset in the bike industry. The simple truth is that you can run either offset on our Fugitive (or any bike) - you just need to understand how the bike will ride with a shorter or longer offset fork.

With a longer offset (51mm) the bike corners better in tight singletrack and has slightly quicker handling but it gives up a bit of stability at high speed.

In the shorter offset (42 to 44) the bike is more raked out so it is more stable and performs better at high speeds but in tech climbs, switchbacks, and slower stuff, the bike is a bit more to get around and the front end can feel floppy.

Depending on travel, a shorter offset will change the wheelbase between 5-7mm which amounts to an almost insignificant half a percent (0.5%) of the total wheel base.

As with all geometry changes, advantages in one area are achieved at the sacrifice elsewhere. Fork offset is a simply another tool/adjustment for riders to customize the handling of the bike to suit their riding style and the terrain they ride._


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## kristian (Jan 20, 2004)

I’m looking forward to some experimenting with offsets. I ordered a 51mm Ribbon Air which is technically for the Trail Pistol stays and a 41mm Ribbon Coil which is technically for the Smash stays. However, both forks are adjustable from 140mm to 160mm so I can use either offset in either bike mode. I’m curious to see which “feels” better for most of my riding. I’m obviously hoping that I like the quicker steering on the trail bike and the extra stability on the bigger bike (since that’s why I ordered them that way) but you never know until you try.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I think I am having major air spring issues. 82 psi in the positive 90 psi in the negative. That sucks the travel down 25mm on 140mm of travel.

The fork feels pretty harsh (doesn't track well) in the initial bit of travel. Sort of feels like bushing bind. 

Anyone had anything similar?

I'll call MRP tomorrow and see what they recommend, I think this has been happening for awhile (fork always felt like it was working my hands a little too much)


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kristian said:


> I'm looking forward to some experimenting with offsets. I ordered a 51mm Ribbon Air which is technically for the Trail Pistol stays and a 41mm Ribbon Coil which is technically for the Smash stays. However, both forks are adjustable from 140mm to 160mm so I can use either offset in either bike mode. I'm curious to see which "feels" better for most of my riding. I'm obviously hoping that I like the quicker steering on the trail bike and the extra stability on the bigger bike (since that's why I ordered them that way) but you never know until you try.


Is there a way to tell what offset I have on mine? I bought it used. 27.5 Ribbon Coil...definitely feels more "floppy" out front than the stock Fox Rhythm I removed from my Jeffsy. Fork is awesome but on tight low speed turns it sort of flops or over steers. Is the offset difference in the axle mount distance from the fork tube?


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

More than likely its a 44mm offset. At least thats my experience on the floppy feeling.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

evan9r said:


> More than likely its a 44mm offset. At least thats my experience on the floppy feeling.


That's what I was thinking as well. So is the offset in the crown or in the lower tube? Where I could just buy a replacement lower stantion??


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Offset at the axle. you can measure if you have calipers. Or, if you have a set with 51mm offset you can visually see the difference between 44 and 51 usually. Yes, you can buy lowers either directly from MRP or I’d bet worldwide has em.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

escrowdog said:


> Is there a way to tell what offset I have on mine? I bought it used. 27.5 Ribbon Coil...definitely feels more "floppy" out front than the stock Fox Rhythm I removed from my Jeffsy. Fork is awesome but on tight low speed turns it sort of flops or over steers. Is the offset difference in the axle mount distance from the fork tube?


Be aware that most 27.5 forks are 42-46mm offsets. That's standard. 29" at 51mm as a standard but now offered in shorter offsets. Offsets are the new wheels size. If your Jeffsy is a 27.5 odds are the Fox and MRP are the same offset. Does the Ribbon have more travel than the Fox? Longer fork / slacker head angle can also contribute to a floppy feeling.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Stupordave said:


> Be aware that most 27.5 forks are 42-46mm offsets. That's standard. 29" at 51mm as a standard but now offered in shorter offsets. Offsets are the new wheels size. If your Jeffsy is a 27.5 odds are the Fox and MRP are the same offset. Does the Ribbon have more travel than the Fox? Longer fork / slacker head angle can also contribute to a floppy feeling.


Hmmm, appreciate you checking me up on that before I go off ledge...yup, I just checked, the Fox I removed was a 44mm offset! And indeed I'm running 170mm front now vs the stock 150mm on the Fox. I do however have the chip flipped to the high position to help counter the longer front travel...as it was ridiculously floppy/slack in the low position. So I'm guessing that's it. My dilemma now is that I'm really REALLY enjoying the lack of pedal strikes with this setup, but the trail manners have definitely suffered. Dang it. :-/

I put the fork on as it was shipped to me at the 170mm level for grins. I guess I should take the time to go back to stock and see how that is. But damn I went from like a dozen pedal strikes to maybe one or two on a ride now.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

escrowdog said:


> Hmmm, appreciate you checking me up on that before I go off ledge...yup, I just checked, the Fox I removed was a 44mm offset! And indeed I'm running 170mm front now vs the stock 150mm on the Fox. I do however have the chip flipped to the high position to help counter the longer front travel...as it was ridiculously floppy/slack in the low position. So I'm guessing that's it. My dilemma now is that I'm really REALLY enjoying the lack of pedal strikes with this setup, but the trail manners have definitely suffered. Dang it. :-/
> 
> I put the fork on as it was shipped to me at the 170mm level for grins. I guess I should take the time to go back to stock and see how that is. But damn I went from like a dozen pedal strikes to maybe one or two on a ride now.


It's quite easy to change the travel on the Ribbon coil. It might be worth trying it out at around 160 and see how that goes.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Curveball said:


> It's quite easy to change the travel on the Ribbon coil. It might be worth trying it out at around 160 and see how that goes.


Definitely, I've had the lowers off already for a service. I'll give it a shot. I certainly don't need nor am I using the 170mm of travel. BUT, as I said above, I'm definitely not getting the pedal strikes I was through the rocks or of camber sections.

Out of curiosity, is the offset measured from the center of the fork tube to the center of the axle?


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Stupordave said:


> Be aware that most 27.5 forks are 42-46mm offsets. That's standard. 29" at 51mm as a standard but now offered in shorter offsets. Offsets are the new wheels size. If your Jeffsy is a 27.5 odds are the Fox and MRP are the same offset. Does the Ribbon have more travel than the Fox? Longer fork / slacker head angle can also contribute to a floppy feeling.


Welp...seems the YT engineers had the whole "geometry" thing figured out after all. I put it back to stock 150mm on the ribbon coil and flipped the chip back to the low position. No more floppy feeling, back to scalpel level handling! Just way way better everywhere.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

attaboy said:


> Offset at the axle. you can measure if you have calipers. Or, if you have a set with 51mm offset you can visually see the difference between 44 and 51 usually. Yes, you can buy lowers either directly from MRP or I'd bet worldwide has em.


It's pretty difficult to measure offset. If you set the fork at 90º it's the distance between the center of the steerer and the center of the axle (measuring on the side of the fork, not straight-on). Two parallel lines, one physical and one theoretical.

The distance between the center of the stanchion and center of the axle is meaningless. In fact, that distance differs between the 27.5" and 29" Ribbon lowers. That's how the same crown mated to each of those gives a different offset (44mm for 27.5" vs. 46mm for 29" - or - 39mm for 27.5" and 41mm for 29 with the shortest offset crown).


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

escrowdog said:


> Is there a way to tell what offset I have on mine? I bought it used. 27.5 Ribbon Coil...definitely feels more "floppy" out front than the stock Fox Rhythm I removed from my Jeffsy. Fork is awesome but on tight low speed turns it sort of flops or over steers. Is the offset difference in the axle mount distance from the fork tube?


Unless someone got really funky and had it built with the "standard" 29" crown, it's easy to tell if it's 44 or 39mm. The shortest crown is machined, the standard (44mm) crown is forged.


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## 4runn (Nov 30, 2018)

I have a brand new MRP ribbon coil 29" 140mm travel. Just installed on bike. Went to adjust the orange ramp control knob and my finger slipped. It has oil / grease on it. Wiped it down yesterday, and it's back to having some oil on it. This normal?


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

4runn said:


> I have a brand new MRP ribbon coil 29" 140mm travel. Just installed on bike. Went to adjust the orange ramp control knob and my finger slipped. It has oil / grease on it. Wiped it down yesterday, and it's back to having some oil on it. This normal?


Funny because I converted my air to coil. After first ride there was a little amount of oil on the knob/in the knob/bottom of fork. I called MRP and said it was normal as long as it was a small amount of oil. They instructed me to wipe the oil clean and see if it does it again. After today's ride there was a oil on the inside/outside of knob again. Less than last time, but still there.

Take off the knob and check for oil inside of it.


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

If your getting some oil on the knobs, odds are one of the small O rings may have gotten pinched during assembly. Could also be just oil pooled in the knob while being assembled. Take off the knob and clean well as suggested above, check to ensure the bottom bolt is tight and see if oil pools into the underside of the knob again. If so, it’s probably one of the O rings. I pinched one when changing the travel and MRP sent me some new ones ASAP as I couldn’t find the exact size local.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

+1 on the pinched oring. You gotta watch it when your putting those footnut in. Happened to me after I converted to coil I just pinched an oring of the old air footnut.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> +1 on the pinched oring. You gotta watch it when your putting those footnut in. Happened to me after I converted to coil *I just pinched an oring of the old air footnut.*


I'll check it out. I'll definitely take a ring from the air foot nut cause there is now way in hell I'm going back to air anytime soon.

thanks guys!


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## 4runn (Nov 30, 2018)

Thanks. I took the orange knob off, and it had oil in it. Naturally it slipped in my fingers when taking it off, and I think it splashed those two drops of oil on right side that you see.

Snapped a photo with the cell phone. Not quite sure what I'm looking at, but there definitely appears to be a leak near the o-ring. Makes sense as to why the orange knob is filling with oil.

Guess I'll need to call MRP next week and see what can be done.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

I pulled off my foot nut. I had oil inside the knob, and I looked at the O-rings and they looked to be in good condition. I'll give it another ride and if it happens again I'll swap out the O-rings.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

4runn said:


> Thanks. I took the orange knob off, and it had oil in it. Naturally it slipped in my fingers when taking it off, and I think it splashed those two drops of oil on right side that you see.
> 
> Snapped a photo with the cell phone. Not quite sure what I'm looking at, but there definitely appears to be a leak near the o-ring. Makes sense as to why the orange knob is filling with oil.
> 
> ...


There are a lot of places residual oil can hide in the rebound and Ramp Control knob assembly. With warmer temps and movement, a little can find its way out. If what is pictured is the extent of it, I wouldn't be concerned. In the future, you should remove your wheel if you see signs of an oil leak, you don't want to contaminate your rotors. It can be darn near impossible to get oil completely off of them.


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## Will Murderface (Nov 26, 2008)

Probably somewhere on this thread, but can anyone tell how oil is supposed to be in each leg? Seems like 30 ml in each leg, but I will be damned if I can find it on the MRP site. This is an air spring model btw.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Will Murderface said:


> Probably somewhere on this thread, but can anyone tell how oil is supposed to be in each leg? Seems like 30 ml in each leg, but I will be damned if I can find it on the MRP site. This is an air spring model btw.


15ml if completely drained. ~10ml if a quick drain and residual oil left inside.

I used 20wt fox gold this time around and feels better than the recommended 5wt. From what I recall MRP is thinking of recommending heavier weight bath oil.


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## 4runn (Nov 30, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> There are a lot of places residual oil can hide in the rebound and Ramp Control knob assembly. With warmer temps and movement, a little can find its way out. If what is pictured is the extent of it, I wouldn't be concerned. In the future, you should remove your wheel if you see signs of an oil leak, you don't want to contaminate your rotors. It can be darn near impossible to get oil completely off of them.


Thanks Noah. I called this AM and I believe it was Eric who mentioned the same. Likely it is bath oil from the assembly process and nothing I should be concerned with. Will keep an eye on it.


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## Will Murderface (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks! May try the heavier oil for poops & giggles.


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi guys, in need of some help with my Ribbon Coil forks. This could be a long post so please bear with me!

I've had them since January on the front of my Specialized Enduro and they've felt awesome - so good in fact they persuaded me i didn't need my seldom-used DH bike anymore, so i sold that and the Enduro frame and bought a Nomad 4 to replace them both. I've moved them to the front of the Nomad and they feel harsh and awful!


On the Enduro they were set to 160mm, medium spring, no preload, zero ramp control and zero compression. They felt great but i never quite used all the travel and sag was slightly less than 20%.

For the Nomad they're set to 170mm, i went to the soft spring as the spring chart says you need a lighter spring as you increase the travel, and i wasn't getting full travel from 160mm. Figuring i'd probably need need some preload i added the spacer. On measuring the sag i was still only getting 20% sag so i removed the spacer, and with no preload still only got about 20% sag! Fully kitted i weigh 84kg/185lbs.

First ride my initial settings were no preload, ramp control about halfway, and a couple of clicks of LSC. The forks felt harsh and sat too deep into their travel. Adding some preload helped them not sit so deep, but still felt harsh. Riding rooty downhill trails with some medium sized braking bumps and my hands and arms felt battered by the bottom of each run.

Things i've tried:

- Increasing preload, now at 6.5 turns and it seems they use roughly the right amount of travel, only bottoming on the biggest hits

- LSC - i've tried zero, a couple of clicks and about halfway. Still felt harsh no matter what, feels slightly better with zero LSC.

- Ramp control i steadily decreased until it was zero, felt better with less.

In short, they feel like totally different forks set at 170mm on the Nomad compared to when i had them at 160mm on the Enduro. They now feel really harsh, and just feel more harsh the harder i push them.

I'm not sure what to try next? I could go back to the medium spring, but the Nomad is a longer frame and i was already not getting enough sag or using all the travel. 

I live a couple of hours drive from anywhere decent to ride so setting them up is a bit tricky, would like to have some ideas to try before i drive another couple of hours to try them again.

Any help much appreciated!


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

My riding weight is 160lbs and I'm on on the soft spring with 170 mm of travel on the Ribbon. My suggestion is to put the medium spring back in. You're probably blowing through the travel too quickly and not having enough mid support. I never use all my travel just riding even with small drops and square edge hits. The last few mm is for the big stuff and the oh sh!t moments. Fork is so plush and supportive.


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

Snap4130 said:


> Hi guys, in need of some help with my Ribbon Coil forks. This could be a long post so please bear with me!
> 
> I've had them since January on the front of my Specialized Enduro and they've felt awesome - so good in fact they persuaded me i didn't need my seldom-used DH bike anymore, so i sold that and the Enduro frame and bought a Nomad 4 to replace them both. I've moved them to the front of the Nomad and they feel harsh and awful!
> 
> ...


I agree with the previous response, you have too soft of a spring for your riding and no mid-stroke support. While I run the air spring I found that going up in pressure made the fork smoother and while I don't use full travel I am ok with it since the fork performs much better through corners, rough stuff and big hits. Don't get stuck on using all of your travel, if the fork works great for you then it's setup for you. You don't need to use all of your travel for every ride and sometimes it's never needed.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

ScottieM8 said:


> My riding weight is 160lbs and I'm on on the soft spring with 170 mm of travel on the Ribbon. My suggestion is to put the medium spring back in. You're probably blowing through the travel too quickly and not having enough mid support. I never use all my travel just riding even with small drops and square edge hits. The last few mm is for the big stuff and the oh sh!t moments. Fork is so plush and supportive.


+3 - go back to medium


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

I recently picked up a Ripmo with an MRP Ribbon coil on it, set to 160mm. I go about 175 or so with gear and am on the soft spring. Currently I have very little ramp control, no preload, and rebound set to recommended for my weight. Overall I really like the fork but would like to make it feel a bit more poppy off jumps. I realize the coil is a bit heavier and tends to feel more planted, but in what order would you try to get a little more pop? Open up rebound, add ramp control, change spring, change preload? TIA


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Snap4130 said:


> Hi guys, in need of some help with my Ribbon Coil forks. This could be a long post so please bear with me!
> 
> I've had them since January on the front of my Specialized Enduro and they've felt awesome - so good in fact they persuaded me i didn't need my seldom-used DH bike anymore, so i sold that and the Enduro frame and bought a Nomad 4 to replace them both. I've moved them to the front of the Nomad and they feel harsh and awful!
> 
> ...


yup, at your weight your right between springs. Just like I am, between med and firm. Go with the med spring with zero preload.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

Tronner said:


> I recently picked up a Ripmo with an MRP Ribbon coil on it, set to 160mm. I go about 175 or so with gear and am on the soft spring. Currently I have very little ramp control, no preload, and rebound set to recommended for my weight. Overall I really like the fork but would like to make it feel a bit more poppy off jumps. I realize the coil is a bit heavier and tends to feel more planted, but in what order would you try to get a little more pop? Open up rebound, add ramp control, change spring, change preload? TIA


try speeding up the rebound a click or two. mrp recommends 8 clicks out for my weight, 9-10 is better.


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## Tronner (Dec 13, 2012)

dwyooaj said:


> try speeding up the rebound a click or two. mrp recommends 8 clicks out for my weight, 9-10 is better.


Will try! Thanks.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Another observation from messing around with sag is that the coil is indeed pretty supportive at the top. Such that it's hard to set sag static, leaning against the bench in the garage like I did with air forks. My experience was that I would get nearly the same sag regardless of preload. I had to set it, go bounce around in the driveway or ride a bit to see how it felt. I'm right at 200 lbs, probably 210 with my loaded pack and gear. I have the medium spring and it feels fantastic NO preload. BUT...I'm not hammering big jumps or drops. Some chunky downhills and g outs yes, but that's it. Combined with a 2.6 DHF front at 13 lbs or so...it's nirvana over roots and rock. I mean it literally feels like it's coasting UP some rocky ascents that I used to struggle with. Now I'm starting to dial in 2 to 5 clicks of LSC and using the medium setting on my super deluxe air on the flows and climbs for a more dynamic feel, as I've got faster. At 150mm I'm still only using maybe 120mm.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Snap4130 said:


> Hi guys, in need of some help with my Ribbon Coil forks. This could be a long post so please bear with me!
> 
> I've had them since January on the front of my Specialized Enduro and they've felt awesome - so good in fact they persuaded me i didn't need my seldom-used DH bike anymore, so i sold that and the Enduro frame and bought a Nomad 4 to replace them both. I've moved them to the front of the Nomad and they feel harsh and awful!


When you changed springs did you throughly lube the upper bushings and wipers with Slick Honey or something similar? And what did you do for bath oil?


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi guys, thanks for all the replys. The only reason I'm hesitant to go back to the medium spring is that at 160mm I never used the last 10-15mm travel, so at 170 I'll be probably be some way short of getting full travel. Amount of travel used with the soft spring seems about right, they just feel really harsh.

Does anyone know how many turns of preload you should use before going up a spring rate? As dwyooaj points out above, I'm right on the cutoff between medium and soft springs going by the chart.



NoahColorado said:


> When you changed springs did you throughly lube the upper bushings and wipers with Slick Honey or something similar? And what did you do for bath oil?


Hi Noah, was hoping you'd reply! Yes, I'm in the UK so bought a kit from TF Tuned that comprises of their lower lube mix (which it says on their website is 20wt) and some RSP ultra slick grease. The bike was also left upside down the night before I rode, which I notice has been recommended in this thread. What are your thoughts on going back to the medium spring?

I would just chuck the medium spring back in and go try it, but it's a 2 hour drive for me to get somewhere capable of giving these a test! Obviously I know the only way to really see what works is to go try it, but I'd like a few ideas on what to try first.

Really appreciate your input on this, thanks guys.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Snap4130 said:


> Hi Noah, was hoping you'd reply! Yes, I'm in the UK so bought a kit from TF Tuned that comprises of their lower lube mix (which it says on their website is 20wt) and some RSP ultra slick grease. The bike was also left upside down the night before I rode, which I notice has been recommended in this thread. What are your thoughts on going back to the medium spring?
> 
> I would just chuck the medium spring back in and go try it, but it's a 2 hour drive for me to get somewhere capable of giving these a test! Obviously I know the only way to really see what works is to go try it, but I'd like a few ideas on what to try first.
> 
> Really appreciate your input on this, thanks guys.


Well, it seems to me you should go back to medium if that felt awesome and the soft felt crappy. 

I just wanted to make sure there was sufficient lube in the forks as that can have a more dramatic effect than anything. Sounds like the stuff you got from TF should be good. My only reservation there is the 20wt oil if you're not getting the fork up to an operating temp where that higher-viscosity oil would prove beneficial. I'm certainly liking it, but our temps are pretty warm and our trails are chunky enough that the fork is moving a lot. I could see under colder conditions and a scenario where your either shuttling or climbing road to access DH trails whereby the oil is too thick to be slippery.

FYI, there will be more natural ramp-up at the end of the stroke on the 170 vs. 160 as a result of more air-volume in the lowers.


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## nikon255 (Dec 27, 2015)

Snap4130 said:


> Hi guys, thanks for all the replys. The only reason I'm hesitant to go back to the medium spring is that at 160mm I never used the last 10-15mm travel, so at 170 I'll be probably be some way short of getting full travel. Amount of travel used with the soft spring seems about right, they just feel really harsh.
> 
> Does anyone know how many turns of preload you should use before going up a spring rate? As dwyooaj points out above, I'm right on the cutoff between medium and soft springs going by the chart.
> 
> ...


stop thinking whats better, just ride it. If it bottoms with clunk, change to stiffer spring. This is no brainer. Harsh? Spin your dials. Preload its just to keep spring in place without rattling. It wont rise stiffnes, just ride height and too much preload add harshness.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Snap4130 said:


> I'm not sure what to try next? I could go back to the medium spring, but the Nomad is a longer frame and i was already not getting enough sag or using all the travel.
> !


I agree with Scottie M8 about returning to the medium spring. I'd stop thinking about fork sag and more focus on how the fork feels and how much travel you're using for a given trail (100% travel is usually only achieved on pretty hard trails). My guess is that something went awry when you switched springs/serviced the fork. As the Nomad should feel much cushier than an Enduro. I'd suggest making sure you did the appropriate lube/oil stuff (or re-do it) and then start at the factory recommended settings for your weight, then tweak it based on feel (not sag). Try running your rebound several clicks faster (less damping) and see if that makes it more plush. I just spent 3 days in Moab using my Ribbon coil and it is always the fork I prefer for rougher riding, the air I prefer for faster riding. I'm 175 and use the medium (green?) spring.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

gfourth said:


> I used 20wt fox gold this time around and feels better than the recommended 5wt. From what I recall MRP is thinking of recommending heavier weight bath oil.


From the earlier posting about the stock oil, it is 7wt Torco, not 5wt.


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> Well, it seems to me you should go back to medium if that felt awesome and the soft felt crappy.


I see your point, it's just that if the forks have got 170mm travel I'd like to get somewhere near using it.

Thanks for the other bits of info too, the bit about ramp up is useful.


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

Snap4130 said:


> I see your point, it's just that if the forks have got 170mm travel I'd like to get somewhere near using it.
> 
> Thanks for the other bits of info too, the bit about ramp up is useful.


You should check out Vorsprung's videos on YouTube. They are a reputable shop for suspension work but Steve goes through suspension detail and even has a video regarding spring rate and travel usage. Long story short use the spring rate you feel is best and of your not using all the travel you just have too much travel for your current riding style or trail system.


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## JDMDA9 (Feb 19, 2007)

Also have a Nomad 4, also had issues with moving the Ribbon Coil from 160mm on a Bronson with the Medium spring to moving the travel up to 170mm on the Nomad.

I'm 200lb ready to roll.

Felt like s'hit with the Medium spring. VERY harsh, not at all like it was on the Bronson.

Fiddled with damper settings for a few weeks, no luck. Swapped the Soft spring in. MASSIVE improvement, felt just like it used to. 

Set it and forget it. I have fairly slow rebound, ramp control somewhere in the middle, a few turns of preload and I usually only mess with the compression when I'm done climbing, where I open it up for the descent. 

Front end works great in super rocky, steep, technical terrain and gives a lot of confidence on the big 5 ft. + drops and no problems with jumps. Super smooth throughout the range of travel, feels like it never hits bottom and very sensitive on small trail crap. Definitely doesn't feel like the spring is too light.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Snap4130 said:


> I see your point, it's just that if the forks have got 170mm travel I'd like to get somewhere near using it.


 I understand that sentiment. I had a different brand fork that I couldn't seem to get the last 20-30mm out of it unless I landed hard on the front wheel. That said, I only use most of my travel on my most technical rides. I think I typically use 140mm (of 160mm). I'm more concerned if I feel like I could have used more travel and didn't, rather than if the fork felt great but I didn't use all my travel.


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

JDMDA9 said:


> Also have a Nomad 4, also had issues with moving the Ribbon Coil from 160mm on a Bronson with the Medium spring to moving the travel up to 170mm on the Nomad.
> 
> I'm 200lb ready to roll.
> 
> ...


Good to hear the experience of another N4 rider. You're 15lbs heavier than me and say the soft spring works best for you, maybe I'll pull the lowers again and make doubly sure they're all greased up as they should be.

The trails i rode to test I know well. I used to use full travel on the boxxers I had on my DH bike there, but never got full travel from the Ribbons set at 160 on my old Enduro riding the same runs - which have a few drops, plenty of roots and braking bumps. Hence why i went to the soft.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Just had my shop change springs and travel. Low speed compression knob doesn't have noticeable detents anymore, is this normal? Seems like it's still having an effect on compression, but the 8 discernible clicks are not discernible. Will it work itself out or should I bring it back?


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Pretty sure they accidentally / mistakenly took off the compression knob. When that happens the two ball bearings freed themselves and shot across the room. Never to be found again.

They are really ****ing annoying to put back. And only took me like 45 mins because they are so hard to place correctly and kept rolling away, shooting from my hands, tweezers, etc. 

It still works fine you just don't get clicks. I had to call MRP get ball bearings sent out (which I still lost a couple times then call them again to walk me through knob placement.

MRP was really great. Don't know why a shop would have removed that knob though.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

foggnm said:


> I understand that sentiment. I had a different brand fork that I couldn't seem to get the last 20-30mm out of it unless I landed hard on the front wheel. That said, I only use most of my travel on my most technical rides. I think I typically use 140mm (of 160mm). I'm more concerned if I feel like I could have used more travel and didn't, rather than if the fork felt great but I didn't use all my travel.


That's one of the things I love about the ramp control (back it off for mellow trails crank it up when it gets steep)


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Snap4130 said:


> I see your point, it's just that if the forks have got 170mm travel I'd like to get somewhere near using it.


Then try riding harder terrain than you're riding now, and at much faster speeds. 

You are experiencing the tuning pitfalls of wanting to use more travel, rather than actually needing it. Think about it this way: If you were only using 70-80% of 160mm and it felt good then why try to use 90-100% of 170mm over the same terrain at the same speeds? That becomes an inefficient use of travel. Tune for quality rather than quantity, and for efficiency- which you had with the medium spring.

I went down the same path of feeling entitled to all the travel and going softer and softer with springrate trying to get it. You end up having to ride much slower and much less confidence. You might bottom out more but it's certainly not an achievement- more of a symptom of being under sprung.

Surprisingly it was actually much easier for me to use more travel at 10-20% higher spring rates. Gave me so much more control of the bike and confidence at speed.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

gfourth said:


> Then try riding harder terrain than you're riding now, and at much faster speeds.
> 
> You are experiencing the tuning pitfalls of wanting to use more travel, rather than actually needing it. Think about it this way: If you were only using 70-80% of 160mm and it felt good then why try to use 90-100% of 170mm over the same terrain at the same speeds? That becomes an inefficient use of travel. Tune for quality rather than quantity, and for efficiency- which you had with the medium spring.
> 
> ...


So much this!

I wonder what % of MTBers go down the "soften spring to use full travel" path? I know I have.

The other mistake I've made is to soften the spring hoping to make it plusher, only to find it getting harsher and unstable in chattery stuff. Trading stability on the chunky and fast for plush on the slow and mellow is not a good trade IMO.

I took me awhile, but I finally came to the conclusion that if I wasn't using full travel on a fork that otherwise felt great, I needed to ride bigger stuff.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## The Messiah (Apr 18, 2019)

See this a lot where riders chase feel and using full travel by dropping pressure. Its the worst thing you can do. We have customers coming into the shop wanting to know why they aren't using full travel on a trail ride?? Well you ride a 170mm bike bro!


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

It's been referenced before, but watch the Tuesday tune episode on using full travel. Basically you need to be smacked upside the head. Put the spring back in that you loved. Get faster. Use more travel.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Agree ^^^

Forks like the Ribbon really get you thinking "wow...if it's THIS plush out of the box, how much better can I make it". I went down the path myself sort of. At 52 years old, I'm okay and am still a legend in my own mind.  But I know I'll probably never use 150mm on purpose.

Since I've been back riding the last 6 months, I've gotten faster and more comfortable again. As my speed increased, I was not feeling real in control all the time. I had fiddled with the 170mm setting and high flip chip thing. Went back to 150mm, low flip chip. MUCH better feel. I'm now using the compression knob on both the fork and shock on flow trails, *finally comfortable enough and able to appreciate a more firm mid stroke platform with some pop vs. chasing the plushness.* Yesterday stopped a couple of times and started adding in FASTER rebound 2 clicks at a time and it made a hell of a difference, thing is PLANTED and not getting chattered off my line anymore. I sped up the rebound on the shock as well after I got the fork dialed in. I'm 210 lbs with my pack, medium spring, 150mm, no preload, 12 clicks out on rebound from slow. I've found that the times I've added LSC and forgot to turn it off on a rougher section, that I really didn't notice it that much, especially in the Ribbon! The initial bump compliance is still very much there! And combined with the lower pressures on the DHF 2.6 front, it's a perfect combo and still rolls like mad!


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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

Recent posts here very helpful. I went down same path based on sag (lack there of) after one week with new ribbon coil. I’m 185 so near the border, and I switched out medium spring for the soft one. 

Post about being under-sprung causing harshness made sense and I put medium back in yesterday. Really made a difference in today’s ride. Fork is much more supple and composed, and I even used more travel. I’ve tweaked the rear shock recently too, but could feel an improvement in the rear from the fork improvement. Really pleased with the way the bike rode today. Big thanks for those that ask questions here and for those that share their experiences.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

I just finished building my new Ripmo with Ribbon Coil 160. As per MRP guidance at 90kg I should run medium spring. However to my surprise with just one turn of pre-load and no clicks on LSC I have 30% (40-45mm) sag. 

Hence my question to guys in similar weight class, did you switch finally to firm? 

I'm going for a trip in two weeks, no chance to test the fork beforehand, so thinking about switching to firm to avoid running too soft spring.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

Kombinat.PL said:


> I just finished building my new Ripmo with Ribbon Coil 160. As per MRP guidance at 90kg I should run medium spring. However to my surprise with just one turn of pre-load and no clicks on LSC I have 30% (40-45mm) sag.
> 
> Hence my question to guys in similar weight class, did you switch finally to firm?
> 
> I'm going for a trip in two weeks, no chance to test the fork beforehand, so thinking about switching to firm to avoid running too soft spring.


Where are you going to ride? Since you are on the cusp, I'd base it on where you plan on riding or what conditions you will encounter, more mellow, leave it as is, super rowdy maybe jump up.

With the soft spring you can always dial up pre-load a bit more worst case vs having a fork that is too stiff and not being able to do anything about it.


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## lachman (Jan 29, 2019)

I'm 90kg, I've got a medium spring and 170mm travel with no preload. Sag was minimal, somewhere between 10% and 15%. I use all the travel on the bigger/harder stuff at the bike park where you would expect to.

There are 10.5 turns of preload plus a preload washer you can install too to get the sag where you want it. I'd check with a cassette tool that the preload cap is tight and double check it's actually a medium spring installed if you're worried.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

well we have 2 members talking about new Ribbon Coil forks - one is a 160mm 29er and I don't know about the other.

but one is 185 pounds and switched from medium spring to soft. the other is 90kg / 198 pounds and is debating switching from medium to firm because he sees 40% sag on the fork.

sag on a fork is dodgy at best. I recommend watching this whole video, but if you're impatient, jump to 9:00 and listen to Steve talk about issues with relying too much on static sag with a fork. 




for the heavier rider; can you really not even ride the bike down some stairs to test travel and rebound, if you can't ride a trail before your trip? I would not swap to the firm spring right now but yes some aggressive riders your weight do use the firm spring.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Will add to this by saying that my coil also felt better when I upped springs (soft to medium @ 170lbs), both a bit more supple/smooth off the top and more consistent through the travel.


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

ColinL said:


> well we have 2 members talking about new Ribbon Coil forks - one is a 160mm 29er and I don't know about the other.
> 
> but one is 185 pounds and switched from medium spring to soft. the other is 90kg / 198 pounds and is debating switching from medium to firm because he sees 40% sag on the fork.
> 
> sag on a fork is dodgy at best. I recommend watching this whole video, but if you're impatient, jump to 9:00 and listen to Steve talk about issues with relying too much on static sag with a fork.


If i'm the other person you're talking about my forks are 27.5 and set to 170mm. I switched from medium to soft when i went from 160mm to 170mm but it felt crap.

I'm going to follow the advice on here and have switched back to medium, not had a chance to try it yet. Will report back once i have.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

I just feel like initial lack of stiction with the coil in general make the first part of the stroke pretty nice regardless of spring rate and rider weight...to an extent. So running a firmer spring will get you more support but I don't feel like you're giving up much at all on the small bump stuff. Especially if you're a FAST rider (faster than my old ass) and are pre hopping and skimming over rough sections, it just always seems to have a little easy compliance right off the top to absorb that unweighted chatter vs deflecting off with a pumped up air fork. I can actually USE the LSC on this fork as it's intended. Meaning it doesn't get harsh really, just more supportive as you dial it in. I can run it wide open over the slower chattery trails all day, but dial in 3 to 6 clicks when it's flowing and really not give up muck over the occasional rough patch, but have more to push off of in turns and dips. Now I'm looking for a coil shock to replace the super deluxe air.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

are there any cutaways of the damper out there?

if it's not a shimmed valve, i'm wondering what it looks like.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I am curious about spring weight / how accurate MRPs recommended spring weights are for most people. I in general get along with MRPs recommendations for air. I weigh 195 geared up and am running about 86psi in the Ribbon air set at 140mm. At that PSI I have less ramp.

Curious if I should buy a medium or a firm spring?


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## Stupordave (Jan 2, 2003)

Charts are a pretty good starting point for most folks. Beauty with MRP is you shouldn’t need to buy anything as they come with 3 springs to cover most of the range.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

cassieno said:


> I am curious about spring weight / how accurate MRPs recommended spring weights are for most people. I in general get along with MRPs recommendations for air. I weigh 195 geared up and am running about 86psi in the Ribbon air set at 140mm. At that PSI I have less ramp.
> 
> Curious if I should buy a medium or a firm spring?


Definitely medium. I'm 210 or more geared up and not using any preload, on medium.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Thanks everyone for the great info. Will stick with medium.

After watching Steve's vid I measured the static sag 10 times and every single one of them I had slightly different reading. With moving my weight just a few centimeters backwards I could change the reading by up to 5mm. 

IMHO also the lack of sticktion "increases" the sag vs. air.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Thanks everyone for the great info. Will stick with medium.
> 
> After watching Steve's vid I measured the static sag 10 times and every single one of them I had slightly different reading. With moving my weight just a few centimeters backwards I could change the reading by up to 5mm.
> 
> IMHO also the lack of sticktion "increases" the sag vs. air.


Yes, same thing I found. You almost have to ride and adjust and see how much fork dive you're getting in the real world. Running no clicks of compression on slower rocky rooty stuff is absolute bliss and dialing in more as it speeds up definitely adds more support for turns and small jumps.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> are there any cutaways of the damper out there?
> 
> if it's not a shimmed valve, i'm wondering what it looks like.











The rebound is shimmed, the compression valve is sprung. :thumbsup:


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> View attachment 1249470
> 
> 
> The rebound is shimmed, the compression valve is sprung. :thumbsup:


YESSS thanks!

any chance at lighter springs for the comp stack? there's just a bit too much HSC; especially below 65 deg F.

nice talking w/ you at Sea Otter btw.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Hi everyone, 

Couple of questions... Recevieved my 170 ribbon coil a couple of days ago and just did a easy trail ride, riding weight is 87kgs and I’ve got 36mm (21% sag) I’m finding the fork a bit soft and already used full travel. Wondering if before this weekend I should just swap out for the firmer spring.

The weekend ride will be a lot more technical DH tracks. I dialled in full ramp control but need more mid stroke, I usually leave LSC close to open with more pressure and no tokens on air forks. Question is does LSC on the ribbon effect high speed fast chatter much? In the garage with LSC dialled on 5 clicks it feels much more supportive so thinking this might be a better option rather than going up a spring. I know the difference between HSC and LSC but usually I notice harshness over high speed impacts too but thought this might be different with a coil. Has anyone gone up a spring and can comment on the differences, even just with sag numbers?


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

BakerFitness said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Couple of questions... Recevieved my 170 ribbon coil a couple of days ago and just did a easy trail ride, riding weight is 87kgs and I've got 36mm (21% sag) I'm finding the fork a bit soft and already used full travel. Wondering if before this weekend I should just swap out for the firmer spring.
> 
> The weekend ride will be a lot more technical DH tracks. I dialled in full ramp control but need more mid stroke, I usually leave LSC close to open with more pressure and no tokens on air forks. Question is does LSC on the ribbon effect high speed fast chatter much? In the garage with LSC dialled on 5 clicks it feels much more supportive so thinking this might be a better option rather than going up a spring. I know the difference between HSC and LSC but usually I notice harshness over high speed impacts too but thought this might be different with a coil. Has anyone gone up a spring and can comment on the differences, even just with sag numbers?


IMO depend on the spring as much as possible for mid and end stroke not compression or ramp control. If you're running a lot of the last two then it's time to go up in spring rate. Mid stroke is the key quality of coil so I don't see any advantage of trying to go into the bike park with too soft of a spring.

Even though I view sag as an arbitrary, inconsistent, and unrelated to real riding number you should be running less of it with a coil.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Sweet thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same, just didn’t want the fork to feel harsh if dialling in some LSC was a better option. I’ll probably do Saturday on the medium spring than potentially change to the heavier for Sunday so I’ve tried both properly.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

What spring is in there now?


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

cassieno said:


> What spring is in there now?


 the middle one it ships with


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Ending up swapping out for the heavier spring and I think it’s going to be better, although after the conversation I only have 12 clicks rebound from super slow to just about ok but maybe not quite fast enough. 

I used fox gold 20wt after reading a little heavier than 5-10wt was working better, would that do it?! 

Also there was no oil in the lowers when I opened them up, only slick honey and marine grease on the spring.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

It was the oil


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Ok it’s now 12:30am in Australia and I’m officially over tired. I’ve now only got 4 clicks so it wasn’t the oil! If anyone could help that would be much appreciated, every time I take off the dampener rebound screw I lose a few clicks off adjustment.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Do you have the paper instruction sheet? They have a bit of instructions not in the video. 

Take off the rebound knob and foot nut. Insert a 3mm hex (I believe) into the rebound shaft and back it out until it's near the opening. then as you reinstall the foot nut it'll push it back in the appropriate amount.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Awesome! Thanks... No don’t have the sheet.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

BakerFitness said:


> Ok it's now 12:30am in Australia and I'm officially over tired. I've now only got 4 clicks so it wasn't the oil! If anyone could help that would be much appreciated, every time I take off the dampener rebound screw I lose a few clicks off adjustment.


Did you turn-in the rebound fully before removing the screw?


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Did you turn-in the rebound fully before removing the screw?


 yep, did everything the same as the vid. Other than the heavier oil


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

gfourth said:


> Do you have the paper instruction sheet? They have a bit of instructions not in the video.
> 
> Take off the rebound knob and foot nut. Insert a 3mm hex (I believe) into the rebound shaft and back it out until it's near the opening. then as you reinstall the foot nut it'll push it back in the appropriate amount.


This. Wind the rebound (and ramp control) back out until it's near the bottom, then when you install the footnuts make sure they key into the adjusters correctly.

It is a 3mm hex, and it is a step missing from the video but in the instruction sheet. The pdf is on the MRP website if you don't have it.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Done this now and still only 4 clicks. I'm generally good with this stuff and this is driving me nuts. There was someone with the same issue earlier in the thread though not sure if they found a fix. Pretty frustrating



Snap4130 said:


> This. Wind the rebound (and ramp control) back out until it's near the bottom, then when you install the footnuts make sure they key into the adjusters correctly.
> 
> It is a 3mm hex, and it is a step missing from the video but in the instruction sheet. The pdf is on the MRP website if you don't have it.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Sid Duffman said:


> I've got a few months of riding on my Ribbon coil, and have also been riding a different bike with a Pike RCT3, with upgraded debonair air spring. The Ribbon is really an impressive fork. The tracking and stability through chunky stuff is head and shoulders above the pike.
> 
> Though I've run into a problem. After changing the spring, I only have 5-6 clicks of adjustment on the rebound knob. Has anyone else run into this? Solutions?


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

So I now know when the problem is occurring... when I back out the rebound screw from the lowers I get the click, click of adjusting, not every time but occasionally. It happened again now and I’m left with 2-3 turns adjustment, what’s the opposite to this? Shouldn’t be hard you would think!


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

BakerFitness said:


> Done this now and still only 4 clicks. I'm generally good with this stuff and this is driving me nuts. There was someone with the same issue earlier in the thread though not sure if they found a fix. Pretty frustrating


I think that was me. I replied to your message, but weirdly, there is now no record of your message in my inbox or my response in my sent items.

Anyway, it was awhile ago, so my recollection of it is a little fuzzy. I tried messing around with the 3mm hex in the foot nut, which didn't fix it. I think the problem was that the rebound bolt was turning and "using up" clicks when I was putting everything back together. I believe I wrapped the small nubbin on top of the bolt with some cloth (to protect it), then took a wrench and brute forced it to towards slow several clicks (or maybe forced it towards fast, can't remember), which fixed the problem. You might wanna contact MRP to see if they have a more elegant solution. I ended up buying a rebound bolt remover tool (see link), and haven't the problem since.

https://mrpbike.com/collections/suspension/products/rebound-bolt-removal-tool


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Thanks mate. I’ll see how I go with the brute force method as I want to ride!


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Noah after looking at what the tool does, does this mean there’s air in the damper? Any fix without the tool?


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

BakerFitness said:


> Thanks mate. I'll see how I go with the brute force method as I want to ride!


To clarify, you only want to turn the small top part of the bolt, without turning the outer part of the bolt. It was hard to get purchase on it, I think I used needle-nose pliers, not a wrench.

That's what that rebound bolt remover tool does: allows you to turn the inner 'clicky' part of the bolt without turning the whole bolt. Please excuse my non-technical terminology; hope that makes sense.


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Got back to 7 clicks though it’s so hard to know which way to go. Over it


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

BakerFitness said:


> yep, did everything the same as the vid. Other than the heavier oil





BakerFitness said:


> Done this now and still only 4 clicks. I'm generally good with this stuff and this is driving me nuts. There was someone with the same issue earlier in the thread though not sure if they found a fix. Pretty frustrating





BakerFitness said:


> So I now know when the problem is occurring... when I back out the rebound screw from the lowers I get the click, click of adjusting, not every time but occasionally. It happened again now and I'm left with 2-3 turns adjustment, what's the opposite to this? Shouldn't be hard you would think!





BakerFitness said:


> Thanks mate. I'll see how I go with the brute force method as I want to ride!





BakerFitness said:


> Noah after looking at what the tool does, does this mean there's air in the damper? Any fix without the tool?





BakerFitness said:


> Got back to 7 clicks though it's so hard to know which way to go. Over it


Mate, it's really hard to help when you treat this thread like a chat. 

I've already been in contact with our Aussie distributor about this and made some suggestions.

It's not clear that you turned in the rebound fully (max) before removing the lowers . We've changed the design so that it's now nearly impossible to accidentally pull the rebound needle out fully (which would introduce air to the damper), but you can still end up short of clicks if you don't have the adjustment turned fully in.

The other possible culprit is oil in the rod/needle. Though you may still be able to interface the hex with the broach in the needle, it can be prevented from fully seating and thus effectively lengthen the overall needle length, again, leaving you short of clicks.

Hope you've got it sorted and you're out shredding!


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

Sorry next time when my new forks aren't working and I've been trying to get them fixed for 8 hours straight I'll try and remain calmer 

I've already mentioned that I 100% had the rebound fully max before removing the lowers. I had your video on my iPad, I'd press play do that tiny part, pause and so on. I'm OCD.

As stated previously, I've worked out how it happened as it and it was neither of the above. I had the same problem that sid duffman did, which was as soon as I backed of the rebound screw it started clicked (so the top bit that inner part stays still while the rest moves) look like the aftermarket tool that he purchased would of helped.

Regardless I'm unfortunately not shredding as I can't spent any more time in the garage trying to get this fork to work.

Thanks for the reply.



NoahColorado said:


> Mate, it's really hard to help when you treat this thread like a chat.
> 
> I've already been in contact with our Aussie distributor about this and made some suggestions.
> 
> ...


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

BakerFitness said:


> Sorry next time when my new forks aren't working and I've been trying to get them fixed for 8 hours straight I'll try and remain calmer
> 
> I've already mentioned that I 100% had the rebound fully max before removing the lowers. I had your video on my iPad, I'd press play do that tiny part, pause and so on. I'm OCD.
> 
> ...


Sorry for all your trouble.

I assume you tried the other trick and unthreaded the needle until it was close to the end of the rod, then mated the hex interface to it?


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## BakerFitness (Apr 5, 2014)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry for all your trouble.
> 
> I assume you tried the other trick and unthreaded the needle until it was close to the end of the rod, then mated the hex interface to it?


No worries, it's just disappointing as I know how much potential this fork has 

Yeah, I tried that as soon as it was suggested. The only thing that seemed to work was what sid duffman suggested, which was to force the inner part of the rebound screw with some needle nose pliers. Doing that gave me some clicks back but still only ended up with 9 and it was a touch too slow.

Even when I'd take off the lowers to check that the needle was in the correct position, make sure there was no oil in the rod and simply put it back together without even adding any additional oil, I'd lose another few clicks of adjustment.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

BakerFitness said:


> No worries, it's just disappointing as I know how much potential this fork has
> 
> Yeah, I tried that as soon as it was suggested. The only thing that seemed to work was what sid duffman suggested, which was to force the inner part of the rebound screw with some needle nose pliers. Doing that gave me some clicks back but still only ended up with 9 and it was a touch too slow.
> 
> Even when I'd take off the lowers to check that the needle was in the correct position, make sure there was no oil in the rod and simply put it back together without even adding any additional oil, I'd lose another few clicks of adjustment.


I'm afraid I'm of no more technical help, but our service manager has been in contact with your shop today. I'm sure everything will be sorted soon!


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## scandy1 (May 2, 2016)

Looking at the Ribbon SL for a 130 travel fork. But sounds like it doesn’t come with the ramp control? That was a big plus to the standard ribbon, think I’d miss out on much without it? Is it still possible to run one in the SL?


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

u dont need it at that travel and especially if youre a normal weight range. the fork has plentttyyyyyy of high speed compression to go around without it.


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## jmvdigital (Jun 21, 2007)

The whole point of the SL is the weight saving. If you add back in Ramp Control, you might as well go with a regular 130mm Ribbon. FWIW, the stock SL is pretty progressive, without any "Huck Pucks" installed. I was talking to Noah at MRP about it when I was setting up my SL and here's what he had to say: 

"The more you add, the more progressive the stroke gets. This comes at the cost of initial and mid-stroke feel though, so I’d recommend starting with none and adding a little at time. The spring on the SL is already pretty progressive without modification.

Volume adjustment differs from Ramp Control in that the latter is speed-sensitive and the former is not. That’s the beauty of Ramp Control, it allows your fork to feel deep and plush when you’re climbing and traversing and shaft speeds are low, but ramps-up for violent square-edged hits. But, the usefulness of that specificity of tuning diminishes as you get into shorter travel - thus why we don’t include in the SL." 

I fully agree with him. I kinda "set and forget" the Ramp Control on my past Ribbons, and I've been out on my new SL on eight rides so far, and it feels super good. I may try adding a token, but probably not. I bottomed out the fork once or twice (didn't feel it, just saw it later), but honestly not surprising considering the travel and the trails/speed I was on.


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## scandy1 (May 2, 2016)

jmvdigital said:


> The whole point of the SL is the weight saving. If you add back in Ramp Control, you might as well go with a regular 130mm Ribbon. FWIW, the stock SL is pretty progressive, without any "Huck Pucks" installed. I was talking to Noah at MRP about it when I was setting up my SL and here's what he had to say:
> 
> "The more you add, the more progressive the stroke gets. This comes at the cost of initial and mid-stroke feel though, so I'd recommend starting with none and adding a little at time. The spring on the SL is already pretty progressive without modification.
> 
> ...


Ok thanks, I think i'll go with the SL, trying to keep my bike reasonably light. the ramp control is only about 50 grams i thought, so even with the SL would still be pretty damn light. It would be nice to have the option to add it, I like tinkering with suspension, but not a deal killer if not.
I found a decent deal on one online, but its a 120 travel, is upping to 130 pretty simple?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

An additional benefit of giving up Ramp Control is that then a Shockwiz would work.

It doesn't work with any variable air chamber technologies. Manitou's IRT is another.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Can MRP Ribbon forks be had through QBP?


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Hey MRP,

I'd like to add something...

So recently built up a shorter travel, slacker 29 with something like a 66 degree HTA. Went with a 39mm offset Pike. No kidding, I can tell the difference in a pretty significant way when it comes to high speed cornering, with no big drawbacks. It remedies any kind of twitchiness and overcorrecting one gets with running shorter stems. Our trails are rather tight and actually not the highest speed type trails - still with the new shorter offset I'm finding I'm cornering much better.

I'm even thinking about changing the offset on my 275 Ribbon when it comes time for a full service. The shorter offset made such a difference for me I'm ok with throwing some money at it.

Might wan't to think about offering the Ribbon in even shorter offsets in the 29.


Well, I do see you do have the Ribbon in reduced offset now that I look at your site.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

yes they're on QBP.


you can always check Universal Cycles' site. they pretty much mirror QBP.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

FactoryMatt said:


> yes they're on QBP.
> 
> you can always check Universal Cycles' site. they pretty much mirror QBP.


Thanks.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

Miker J said:


> Can MRP Ribbon forks be had through QBP?


Let me Google that for you

https://qbp.com/brands/partners


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## powder yeti (May 25, 2015)

Thanks to Noah, Eric, and the rest of the crew at MRP!!! Their products are awesome and their customer support is even better!!!
Have the 160 ribbon coil and had one of the c-clips on the lower ramp control assembly (the portion that threads into the lower fork leg & the orange cap attaches to) get tweaked and wasn't holding the assembly in place. Called up MRP and Eric returned my call within an hour. Chatted with him about the assembly and he had a new one shipped off to me that same day. Love supporting Colorado companies and will be dropping off some cold refreshments next time I head west out of the mountains!
Thanks again for being such an awesome company and keeping my 2 wheels rolling!!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Hey MRP,
> 
> I'd like to add something...
> 
> ...


I guess you saw, but we have three offset options for 29": 41, 46, and 51mm. For 27.5" we offer 39 or 44mm. Technically, we could do a 49mm offset 27.5", but no one is asking for that.


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## rock3gozy (Jun 13, 2007)

Having trawled through the thread I still can't make my mind up. What are the pros and cons to choosing air over coil and vice-versa? At the moment I know of the weight gain (but its not a deal breaker, performance is more important) but I have also read a few reviews/comparisons suggesting that the air are better suited to jumps and drops. I like to ride a real mix of trails from steep and technical to fast and flowy and some moderate jumps and drops.

I've heard a lot of mention of better mid-support on the coil but again seen reviews suggesting they give up the travel easier and typically ride a bit further into the travel than a Fox or Lyrik might. I know a coil is usually linear and air progressive but the ramp control should assist there! 

I'm about 158lbs (maybe 160 with kit) so would be starting on a soft spring based on the chart with an open mind to trying the medium if required. They will be on 150 29er (although I might try them at 155/160)

Finally, current offset is 46 on a Bird AM9. It's a reasonably long bike at 475 reach (178 tall)- any downsides to going to the 41mm offset?

Thanks


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

rock3gozy said:


> Having trawled through the thread I still can't make my mind up. What are the pros and cons to choosing air over coil and vice-versa? At the moment I know of the weight gain (but its not a deal breaker, performance is more important) but I have also read a few reviews/comparisons suggesting that the air are better suited to jumps and drops. I like to ride a real mix of trails from steep and technical to fast and flowy and some moderate jumps and drops.
> 
> I've heard a lot of mention of better mid-support on the coil but again seen reviews suggesting they give up the travel easier and typically ride a bit further into the travel than a Fox or Lyrik might. I know a coil is usually linear and air progressive but the ramp control should assist there!
> 
> ...


Get an air fork to start with. Play around with it, experiment and try many different settings. if you really hate it it's always possible to slip a coil in it but remember you can't go back since it scratches up the inside.


----------



## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

rock3gozy said:


> Having trawled through the thread I still can't make my mind up. What are the pros and cons to choosing air over coil and vice-versa? At the moment I know of the weight gain (but its not a deal breaker, performance is more important) but I have also read a few reviews/comparisons suggesting that the air are better suited to jumps and drops. I like to ride a real mix of trails from steep and technical to fast and flowy and some moderate jumps and drops.
> 
> I've heard a lot of mention of better mid-support on the coil but again seen reviews suggesting they give up the travel easier and typically ride a bit further into the travel than a Fox or Lyrik might. I know a coil is usually linear and air progressive but the ramp control should assist there!
> 
> ...


I'm a little lighter than you (145/150) on a similar bike geo and travel (140r/150f 29er). I have the 46mm offset. I started with the air version of the MRP and eventually converted it to coil- which is might be the path you want to take if you want to try both. I'm on a soft spring and at my weight I'm between the x-soft and soft. I opted for stiffer as I prefer no preload, less compression, and not relying on excessive ramp to prevent bottom out. The mid stroke support is fantastic. I find myself dipping less into the end travel- except for the truly big hits/mistakes. And I find the fork to handle small-medium sized hits efficiently which I believe is the strength of the coil: sporty taut feel, yet still relatively supple off the top, and still predictable and controlled in the end stroke. Generally speaking I feel like I waste less travel with the coil compared to the air which permits me to comfortably go much faster.

You might be referring to the Worldwide Cyclery review? I personally felt like he was in the habit of under springing, and then running a lot of compression, tokens, and ramp control which is a recipe for little mid stroke.

edit: the other thing I'll add is that I got annoyed with +/- chambers at my weight. The 10% difference equates to 2-3psi and there was a noticeable difference between the plush/neutral settings. I found that a digital gauge was a must and there was always faffing and wondering if I was at the exact PSI. From my experience the air worked better at neutral settings and at higher spring rates than I thought I'd ever run.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

rock3gozy said:


> Having trawled through the thread I still can't make my mind up. What are the pros and cons to choosing air over coil and vice-versa?
> 
> Finally, current offset is 46 on a Bird AM9. It's a reasonably long bike at 475 reach (178 tall)- any downsides to going to the 41mm offset?
> 
> Thanks


I know it's hard to choose, but it all comes down to preference. My preference in the longer-travel range (150+) is for coil. With the right spring, I never feel like it gives up ANYTHING to air. It rides like a trophy truck. I can hit jumps and and drops just fine.

There's more to tinker with on the air model, which is cool, but it can make you a bit neurotic about your settings and constantly wondering if "a little bit more of this and little less of this" will suddenly make you Aaron Gwin-fast. If you're already hemming and hawing about air vs. coil, you might be prone to this. 

Regarding offset, yeah, you do start to give up a little bit of a bikes "easygoingness" as you start getting into the radically short offsets. That's the tradeoff. In my experience with super-short offsets, as with other very progressive geometry changes, you get a marginal improvement in a few circumstances at the expense of a slight disadvantage in more common scenarios. Take JRA-ing your local singletrack climb, with super-short offsets the handling is so slow that should your front wheel wander off the tread of the trail, you have to do more to correct your trajectory. Basically, you have to stay more engaged with what you're doing at all times. That said, the longest offsets have some negative traits too. So, for me, the 46mm offset is the best compromise for modern long-travel trail and enduro bikes.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

gfourth said:


> You might be referring to the Worldwide Cyclery review? I personally felt like he was in the habit of under springing, and then running a lot of compression, tokens, and ramp control which is a recipe for little mid stroke.


Absolutely. He didn't set up his fork correctly.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I'm with Noah on the coil being like a trophy truck good analogy.

I can't think of a reason to go back to air besides being able to adjust the spring rate easier.

Supple off the top strong midstroke and I don't know if I've ever bottomed out.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

I get the best results from this fork by going with MRPs recommended pressures and using the negative spring for plush with not that much ramp (typically 4 to 8 depending on the trail) It does feel firmer through out its travel but it is significantly less fatiguing that way.

It feels like it has plenty of mid stroke like that. When I run a lot less pressure and try and use ramp for mid stroke it doesn't go well.

So I feel like reviewers who talk about lack of Mid-stroke are probably trying to make it too "plush" by not running enough air and using ramp to control bottom out.


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## RaymondC (Sep 19, 2018)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I'm with Noah on the coil being like a trophy truck good analogy.
> 
> I can't think of a reason to go back to air besides being able to adjust the spring rate easier.
> 
> Supple off the top strong midstroke and I don't know if I've ever bottomed out.


Fully agree. I'm not sure where they get the idea that the coil sinks into its midstroke to easy on g-outs. Everyone knows a coil has more midstroke support as it is linear. Every airspring fork I have felt after now owning my Ribbon coil for about 9 months feels soft in its mid stroke.
It's the same feeling I get with having a coil shock, more linear and better support in the most used portion of travel.

I can't see myself ever going back to air.
After putting 20wt oil in my Ribbon coil lowers it has been amazing.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

RaymondC said:


> Fully agree. I'm not sure where they get the idea that the coil sinks into its midstroke to easy on g-outs. Everyone knows a coil has more midstroke support as it is linear. Every airspring fork I have felt after now owning my Ribbon coil for about 9 months feels soft in its mid stroke.
> It's the same feeling I get with having a coil shock, more linear and better support in the most used portion of travel.


Agree


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

cassieno said:


> I get the best results from this fork by going with MRPs recommended pressures and using the negative spring for plush with not that much ramp (typically 4 to 8 depending on the trail) It does feel firmer through out its travel but it is significantly less fatiguing that way.
> 
> It feels like it has plenty of mid stroke like that. When I run a lot less pressure and try and use ramp for mid stroke it doesn't go well.
> 
> So I feel like reviewers who talk about lack of Mid-stroke are probably trying to make it too "plush" by not running enough air and using ramp to control bottom out.


Yup.


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## sfainbraun (Feb 5, 2016)

I agree with you. I like start with a firm enough spring rate and avoid adding any compression dampening or ramp (I tend to like a firm suspension and think most people run theirs too soft). I then adjust the negative air to the point it sucks the fork in, and then let go a of a little air until the fork gets back to the full travel - this way I know that I have it as plush as possible for my spring rate. If for some reason I feel like I need more compression - I actually equalize the positive and negative spring. If now it feels to hard, then a slightly lower spring rate (at equal pressures). Once you learn to play with the spring, you find that you use the ramp control and compression settings for specific types of trails as an adjustment to make those particular situations better - such as more ramp up for gnarly bigger hit trails, or slower rebound, more compression dampening for jump trails to keep the fork really high and allow you to really press down on it but no pogo sticking. It has taken me a while to learn to use the air fork correctly - plus like a million emails to MRP.


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

So anyone know the secret to getting the damper top cap to not leak? The blowup diagram I was sent shows 2 o-rings, but no matter how gently I tighten the top cap, I can't get that arrangement to seal. I'm getting plenty of practice at bleeding the damper, but I'd rather be riding my bike...


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dbabuser said:


> So anyone know the secret to getting the damper top cap to not leak? The blowup diagram I was sent shows 2 o-rings, but no matter how gently I tighten the top cap, I can't get that arrangement to seal. I'm getting plenty of practice at bleeding the damper, but I'd rather be riding my bike...


I dunno any tricks, but our Service Manager Eric might. Give us a call or e-mail.


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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

dbabuser said:


> So anyone know the secret to getting the damper top cap to not leak? The blowup diagram I was sent shows 2 o-rings, but no matter how gently I tighten the top cap, I can't get that arrangement to seal. I'm getting plenty of practice at bleeding the damper, but I'd rather be riding my bike...


I have a feeling the stock o-ring might be slightly too big.....I've seen this one nicked before, and I remember using a slightly smaller one that still had enough squish and it worked perfectly


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

Enduro Fork Seals / Real World Cycling?

I searched the thread and didn't find anything useful. I did see one person mention RWC back in 2017.

Is anyone using RWC seals instead of the MRP oem? These:
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/pro...-rwc-hy-glide-wiper-seals/EFS-HG-35-UPGR.html

MRP Ribbon is listed as compatible.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

gonna have a freshly overhauled MRP Ribbon 29 for sale shortly. Mods let me know if this post is forboten.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

interesdted to know about those RWC seals too.

Also anyone ever done a damper service? Wasnt there sposed to be a video from MRP on that coming out?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

phazedalx said:


> Also anyone ever done a damper service? Wasnt there sposed to be a video from MRP on that coming out?


I'm hounding the video guy for the finished product!


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

phazedalx said:


> interesdted to know about those RWC seals too.
> 
> Also anyone ever done a damper service? Wasnt there sposed to be a video from MRP on that coming out?


I've been quite happy with the RWC single seal replacing oil & wiper seals on both Fox and Manitou, so I'm curious to try it on my Ribbon.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm hounding the video guy for the finished product!


really curious what the damper is comprised of. poppet valve or what. seems tunability would really help drive a broad customer base.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm hounding the video guy for the finished product!


ok great, its a been a year on mine with lots of riding so i think I need to do something....getting nervous lol


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Ya I'm wondering about that lsc dial now. When I did my bleed I had a some oil come out after installing it does that mean my bleed was compromised?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

phazedalx said:


> ok great, its a been a year on mine with lots of riding so i think I need to do something....getting nervous lol


Have you at least done a lower leg service?


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

NoahColorado said:


> Have you at least done a lower leg service?


oh yeah prolly 10 or more times. I like my fork to feel smooooooth


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

phazedalx said:


> Also anyone ever done a damper service? Wasnt there sposed to be a video from MRP on that coming out?


Damper bleed was pretty easy. It's basically the same as this video with a few minor differences that were easy to figure out.






If you email MRP, they'll send you written instructions for the damper bleed. The written instruction along with the above video were sufficient, and I'm no expert mechanic.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

phazedalx said:


> oh yeah prolly 10 or more times. I like my fork to feel smooooooth


Okay, good! Had me scared for a minute! You wouldn't believe how often folks complain about stickiness or harshness after riding their forks for a season or more with ZERO maintenance.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

Has anybody experimented in going up to a stiffer spring weight vs what is recommended by MRP? I'm 190-195 kitted up, so fall in the green or "medium" coil, the higher end, but still well within the range. I found it to be super wallowy and dove quite a bit. Just swapped out to the stiff spring and it's flippin' stiff! Have not had a chance to ride it yet, just parking lot cruise, but stays up in travel quite a bit more. Concerned that it's going to hammer me on the trail, but I'll give it a go and find out.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

RadBartTaylor said:


> Has anybody experimented in going up to a stiffer spring weight vs what is recommended by MRP? I'm 190-195 kitted up, so fall in the green or "medium" coil, the higher end, but still well within the range. I found it to be super wallowy and dove quite a bit. Just swapped out to the stiff spring and it's flippin' stiff! Have not had a chance to ride it yet, just parking lot cruise, but stays up in travel quite a bit more. Concerned that it's going to hammer me on the trail, but I'll give it a go and find out.


 Yup, like I mentioned last summer here mrp and all fork makers need to offer more springs within the range with more overlap. I'm also between med and firm, I run the firm but it's a tad harsh and ramp and comp adjustments are less useful. A thousand dollar fork should be able to be set up perfectly for your weight. Cmon mrp a med/firm spring would be greatly appreciated. You mentioned last summer you got what I was saying...


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## kan3 (Nov 11, 2009)

I know this isn't exactly a lot of help but there are companies like Cannon Racecraft that custom wind springs. You could have a single spring made to your specs from them for probably around $100 to $125. You could get the spring rate numbers from MRP and then pull out your current spring and give them the measurements they need.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

RadBartTaylor said:


> Has anybody experimented in going up to a stiffer spring weight vs what is recommended by MRP? I'm 190-195 kitted up, so fall in the green or "medium" coil, the higher end, but still well within the range. I found it to be super wallowy and dove quite a bit. Just swapped out to the stiff spring and it's flippin' stiff! Have not had a chance to ride it yet, just parking lot cruise, but stays up in travel quite a bit more. Concerned that it's going to hammer me on the trail, but I'll give it a go and find out.


You should ride it first... like on the trail at speed and not in the parking lot. I am between x-soft and soft and went with stiffer. Fails all the arbitrary tests (sag, parking lot feel, drop tests) but is amazing when ridden.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

According to MRP I should be on a Medium spring (@ ~200 kitted up w/water, food and gear) but after trying out the Firm, I'm 100% happier, plusher, tracks MUCH better and is much more precise. 

As a reference, I race Expert in Enduro, upper/mid pack but I ain't hitting huge booters or rippin' Whistler bike park. I bet many folks that are hunting for a plusher feel who ride hard, should probably experiment with a stiffer spring, not a softer one.

I used all the travel with the Medium spring....guess what, I did with the Firm spring too.

*As a side note, the guy who does my suspension on my moto bike (who knows his $*&#) recommends stiffer springs, when in doubt, for taller folks since they can get further over the front and rear of the bike and I'm on the taller end of the spectrum. Not a rule of course but something worth considering.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

I had similar experiences with the medium(47lb) and firm(55lb) spring. 

Whats interesting is Vorsprung recommends a 60lb spring(which btw I like that they call it out with a number instead of saying firm or extra firm which may dissuade people from trying different spring rates) which is the same as MRPs Xtra Firm(60lb) for aggressive riding at our weight. 

I weigh 195lbs and have about 22% sag on the firm(55lb) spring. How much do you have?


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## Harryman (Jun 14, 2011)

Hmm, I'm one of you guys on the upper end of the medium range. I have no complaints riding the medium as the fork is still fairly new for me and I haven't finished dialing it in, but I've been heavy spring curious.


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## Picard (Apr 5, 2005)

Is the ribbon air lighter than the coil version?
Does it perform almost as good coil? 

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

evan9r said:


> I had similar experiences with the medium(47lb) and firm(55lb) spring.
> 
> Whats interesting is Vorsprung recommends a 60lb spring(which btw I like that they call it out with a number instead of saying firm or extra firm which may dissuade people from trying different spring rates) which is the same as MRPs Xtra Firm(60lb) for aggressive riding at our weight.
> 
> I weigh 195lbs and have about 22% sag on the firm(55lb) spring. How much do you have?


I'm 185 lbs walking around and probably closer to 20% or less. I find it's kind of hard to get accurate as it's kinda of inconsistent.

After my experience though, and to your point, I'd like to try they xtra firm for kicks, but not sure I wanna drop the $$ based on how friggin' good it felt with the firm.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

Harryman said:


> Hmm, I'm one of you guys on the upper end of the medium range. I have no complaints riding the medium as the fork is still fairly new for me and I haven't finished dialing it in, but I've been heavy spring curious.


I'd give the heavy a go. I was hesitant to tear into the fork, but it's really quite easy. I had to buy the snap-ring pliers, but besides that, it's quite straightforward.....not that you had any hesitation, but I know some folks do.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

RadBartTaylor said:


> I'm 185 lbs walking around and probably closer to 20% or less. I find it's kind of hard to get accurate as it's kinda of inconsistent.
> 
> After my experience though, and to your point, I'd like to try they xtra firm for kicks, but not sure I wanna drop the $$ based on how friggin' good it felt with the firm.


I went ahead and bought the Xtra Firm a month or so ago but as of late Ive been riding smoother trails with very small if any, drops so I havent felt the need to swap the spring just yet. I reckon Ill be the guinea pig and give it a try. Im not sure Ill gain much other than bottom out resistance.


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

evan9r said:


> I had similar experiences with the medium(47lb) and firm(55lb) spring.
> 
> Whats interesting is Vorsprung recommends a 60lb spring(which btw I like that they call it out with a number instead of saying firm or extra firm which may dissuade people from trying different spring rates) which is the same as MRPs Xtra Firm(60lb) for aggressive riding at our weight.
> 
> I weigh 195lbs and have about 22% sag on the firm(55lb) spring. How much do you have?


Evan - how did you figure out the weight of the xtra firm spring @ 60 lbs? I looked at the Vorsprung website and see they are recommending the 60 for our weight but can't seem to find any documentation regarding the MRP weight designation.

Thanks


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## RadBartTaylor (Dec 1, 2004)

For you coil guys, I created a *coil* master thread:

https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/mrp-ribbon-*coil*-master-thread-1105265.html


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

RadBartTaylor said:


> Evan - how did you figure out the weight of the xtra firm spring @ 60 lbs? I looked at the Vorsprung website and see they are recommending the 60 for our weight but can't seem to find any documentation regarding the MRP weight designation.
> 
> Thanks


Noah commented on the coil rates earlier in this thread.

Xtra soft - 31lbs
Soft - 39lbs 
Medium - 47lbs
Firm - 55lbs 
Xtra firm - 60lbs


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

RadBartTaylor said:


> Evan - how did you figure out the weight of the xtra firm spring @ 60 lbs? I looked at the Vorsprung website and see they are recommending the 60 for our weight but can't seem to find any documentation regarding the MRP weight designation.
> 
> Thanks


IMO, MRP need to step up and give spring weight ratings in the same units of designation as everyone else (Vorsprung/PUSH/CaneCreek).

MRP Coils are as follows per a phone call with them:
X-soft: 5.5 N/mm - 31lb
Soft: 6.9 N/mm - 39lb
Med: 8.2 N/mm - 47lb
Firm: 9.6 N/mm - 55lb
X-firm:10.5 N/mm - 60lb

I asked for these coil rates to be converted and they couldn't figure it out on the phone.

Sure makes things a little harder when comparing whether you think you're on the correct coil.

EDIT: according to evan9r, looks like Noah supplied them, updated post above.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

My Ribbon 29 Air posted for sale. Apologies mods if this is taboo.

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2585578/


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## JDMDA9 (Feb 19, 2007)

Snap4130 said:


> Good to hear the experience of another N4 rider. You're 15lbs heavier than me and say the soft spring works best for you, maybe I'll pull the lowers again and make doubly sure they're all greased up as they should be.
> 
> The trails i rode to test I know well. I used to use full travel on the boxxers I had on my DH bike there, but never got full travel from the Ribbons set at 160 on my old Enduro riding the same runs - which have a few drops, plenty of roots and braking bumps. Hence why i went to the soft.


Soft is where it's at.

Spent all weekend at Snow Summit. I couldn't remember if I ran the Medium or Soft last year here, but I was feeling pretty lazy and didn't want to swap them before we went. REALLY wish the spring was removable from the top, but it is what it is.

Anyway, I added the preload spacer and cranked the preload all the way down, thinking the jumps and speed might be a bit more than the soft spring was up for.

Nope, ZERO issues. Felt PERFECT. Used maybe 2/3 travel max on Party Wave/Westridge. Landings felt like butter, and the Soft spring didn't eat up my momentum popping off the jumps, either. It was great in the high speed washboard and rocks on Miracle Mile, too. Fork performed amazing all around. Never once felt like I needed to adjust any part of the suspension, which is exactly what I like. Set it and forget it.

Bike was as dialed as it has ever been, and was the perfect ride for me out there. Only thing I would like to swap is the Super Deluxe for a Hazzard down the road, just to see how well a coil does.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

FactoryMatt said:


> My Ribbon 29 Air posted for sale. Apologies mods if this is taboo.
> 
> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2585578/


You should list the offset as well.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PHeller said:


> You should list the offset as well.


It's 51, I can tell from the serial number. It also has the short damper and air-spring, maxes out at 150mm, not 160mm.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

thank you!


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Didn't know there was a "Short" and "Long" Damper and Air Spring option. 

I noticed the Ribbon is now listed as 140-160, the SL is 120-130, and the Raven is 120-160. 

Back in 2017, the Ribbon could go 120-160mm in 29er form. 

Is the Short Damper/Spring from the SL?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

For the Ribbon Air, is there some way of setting it up so it's super plush in the initial stroke, but ramps up nicely at the end? 

I don't want to go coil if I don't have to, but after riding one I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

clearancing the bushings on a lathe - maybe Dougal could do this?

also needs a larger negative spring chamber IMO.


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## cassieno (Apr 28, 2011)

PHeller said:


> For the Ribbon Air, is there some way of setting it up so it's super plush in the initial stroke, but ramps up nicely at the end?
> 
> I don't want to go coil if I don't have to, but after riding one I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


Put 10 psi over the positive in the negative spring and dial in more Ramp Control. Their new ramp control + huckpucks might allow you to do that more.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

PHeller said:


> <snip> I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


As you should be...


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PHeller said:


> Didn't know there was a "Short" and "Long" Damper and Air Spring option.
> 
> I noticed the Ribbon is now listed as 140-160, the SL is 120-130, and the Raven is 120-160.
> 
> ...


From the get-go we had two different springs and dampers for the 29" Ribbons. One maxed at 150 and the other at 160. Just saved weight and optimized the springs for shorter or longer travel applications.

Forks built at 140mm or shorter used the short, 150mm or longer the long. Now, we offered the fork in 120-160mm options, but unless you purchased a 150 or 160mm model, you were internally capped at 150mm. You could take any of them down to 120mm though (technically 115mm if you used ALL of the included travel spacers).

SL uses an entirely different spring and damper. Maxes out at 130mm.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

PHeller said:


> For the Ribbon Air, is there some way of setting it up so it's super plush in the initial stroke, but ramps up nicely at the end?
> 
> I don't want to go coil if I don't have to, but after riding one I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


You can set it up with 10psi more in the negative and with 20-25% sag, then a lot of Ramp Control. That makes it plush initially, but very progressive. Makes the initial and mid-stroke pretty flat though.

But if you're asking if you can set it up like coil, not exactly. Closest thing would be lower sag, max +/- difference, and minimal Ramp Control.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

PHeller said:


> For the Ribbon Air, is there some way of setting it up so it's super plush in the initial stroke, but ramps up nicely at the end?
> 
> I don't want to go coil if I don't have to, but after riding one I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


I had both, coil on the heavier bike an air on the lighter bike. Both are 160mm travel. After that riding the coil, the air wasn't as supple. I played around with settings on the air for over six months but couldn't get it to feel supple as you described. Don't get me wrong, the air version is good. Has a sporty feel to it. After riding the coil, I got spoiled. A few things nice about the coil is how consistent it feels over long chunky descents, and no more fussing with air pressures. So in the end, I converted the air to a coil since it only adds minimal weight. Both my bikes have Ribbon coils and couldn't be happier. I was being a weight weenie trying to save half a pound with the air but the feel of coil changed my mind.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

PHeller said:


> For the Ribbon Air, is there some way of setting it up so it's super plush in the initial stroke, but ramps up nicely at the end?
> 
> I don't want to go coil if I don't have to, but after riding one I'm a bit jealous of that super supple initial stroke.


Yes, run the neg chamber at 10% (not psi) more than the positive and run a bit higher pos pressure than you'd think. You can still get 20-25% sag this way. Don't be afraid of going high in neg pressure. It will suck down a bit but the fork will extend fully when riding.
Tweak with the ramp control but don't try to fix a bad setup with it because it will male the fork feel a bit weird and inconsistent.


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## ridder252 (Mar 15, 2011)

Just a quick question on this. Are the shorter 29 and 27.5 damper lengths the same? I know that the axle to crown for the 170mm 27.5 and 150mm 29 are the same so it would make sense. Wondering if it would be possible to just swap lowers to 29.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

ridder252 said:


> Just a quick question on this. Are the shorter 29 and 27.5 damper lengths the same? I know that the axle to crown for the 170mm 27.5 and 150mm 29 are the same so it would make sense. Wondering if it would be possible to just swap lowers to 29.


No, the short 29" and (standard) 27.5" damper tubes are different lengths on the Ribbon Air.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Damper Service video is finally up!

Sorry it took so long!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Anybody have a soft coil they aren't using and want to sell?


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

27.5 160mm Ribbon air is en route. Psyched to replace the Pike which never seemed to act more than a pogo stick for me. Seems like universal praise for the coil. At least I can go that route someday if I feel the need, but for my riding I think the air will be the better choice.

Does anyone have an actual weight on the 275 air?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

WoodstockMTB said:


> Does anyone have an actual weight on the 275 air?


Congrats! Welcome to the family.

I just weighed one and it was 4.19 lbs. with bolt-on axle and uncut steerer. The QR-style axle adds 30g IIRC. I thought they were pretty consistently about 4.15 lbs. at one point, maybe our new thicker decals added the difference.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

NoahColorado said:


> Congrats! Welcome to the family.
> 
> I just weighed one and it was 4.19 lbs. with bolt-on axle and uncut steerer. The QR-style axle adds 30g IIRC. I thought they were pretty consistently about 4.15 lbs. at one point, maybe our new thicker decals added the difference.


Decals off! Just kidding. I have a bolt on axle coming too. I've had broken QRs on trail and ended my day of riding so I'll never go there again.

Still about 200g less than my 17' Pike.

Also a question about using a shockwiz....can it be used on the Ribbon and would it be attached to the positive valve?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

I don't believe you can use a Shockwiz on a fork with variable air chamber size like a Ribbon (Ramp Control).

Actually I guess the Ribbon SL doesn't have Ramp Control. So that would work. But I don't think I've seen many people post in this discussion yet that they are riding the SL.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

ColinL said:


> I don't believe you can use a Shockwiz on a fork with variable air chamber size like a Ribbon (Ramp Control).
> 
> Actually I guess the Ribbon SL doesn't have Ramp Control. So that would work. But I don't think I've seen many people post in this discussion yet that they are riding the SL.


Thanks. not a big deal. I barely know how to use the thing and was thinking of selling it. I tend to run +/- a few clicks from recommended anyway


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

WoodstockMTB said:


> Decals off! Just kidding. I have a bolt on axle coming too. I've had broken QRs on trail and ended my day of riding so I'll never go there again.
> 
> Still about 200g less than my 17' Pike.
> 
> Also a question about using a shockwiz....can it be used on the Ribbon and would it be attached to the positive valve?


No, you cannot use a Shockwiz with any fork with Ramp Control. You'll get funky results.


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Still not entirely happy with the small bump sensitivity on my Ribbon Coils, it feels like there's a bit of stiction in the fork.

Today I had the brake disc off my front wheel so took the opportunity to measure the hub width and width of the fork dropouts with some digital calipers. Hub width showed as 110.01mm, dropout width was 110.99, so very nearly 1mm difference. When tightening the axle you can see the dropouts get pulled inwards.

That can't be good for stiction can it? Anyone else have this?

Forks are only a few months old and in mint condition so I don't think they've been damaged at all to cause this.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

wow. you could try some machine shims and see if it helps.

https://www.accu.co.uk/en/shim-washers/62806-HSHN-15-21-0-5-A2

their bushings are sized a bit tight i think, but the service is excellent if indeed they're out of spec.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Snap4130 said:


> Still not entirely happy with the small bump sensitivity on my Ribbon Coils, it feels like there's a bit of stiction in the fork.
> 
> Today I had the brake disc off my front wheel so took the opportunity to measure the hub width and width of the fork dropouts with some digital calipers. Hub width showed as 110.01mm, dropout width was 110.99, so very nearly 1mm difference. When tightening the axle you can see the dropouts get pulled inwards.
> 
> That can't be good for stiction can it? Anyone else have this?


Less than 1mm is actually very good. I'm certain what you're feeling is not the result of a discrepancy between hub and dropout width. Have a look at Fox's publicly available fork spec drawings and you can see their dropout spec is .5mm over axle width AND +/- 2mm in tolerance.

There are several other low-hanging fruit to address if small bump sensitivity can be improved. Regular lower-leg service is #1. Have you performed this service yet?

What are your damper and preload settings?

Cheers!


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

there's a slot in the fork right where it is being measured in that drawing, which serves to make it easier to install the wheel.

at any rate - need more info. how much do you weigh, what spring is installed, and what bike?

how are you assessing stiction - pushing down on the fork while stationary off the bike, riding in a parking lot, or riding a familiar trail?


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## Snap4130 (Feb 16, 2009)

Thanks to both for your replies.



ColinL said:


> there's a slot in the fork right where it is being measured in that drawing, which serves to make it easier to install the wheel.


Yep, i get that, but that is the bit where the wheel sits which is why i measured there. Anyway, Noah has confirmed it's not a problem and that's good enough for me, was surprised there was that much tolerance but i must admit i've never checked any other forks.



ColinL said:


> at any rate - need more info. how much do you weigh, what spring is installed, and what bike?
> 
> how are you assessing stiction - pushing down on the fork while stationary off the bike, riding in a parking lot, or riding a familiar trail?


Bike is a Nomad 4 with coil shock. Medium spring. I'm 83KG fully fitted. I'm not interested in parking lot tests, only how it feels when riding. Fork feels good on the bigger hits but on the smaller high frequency chatter bumps it seems harsh - my hands feel battered at the end of a descent where they didn't used to on my old Pikes.



NoahColorado said:


> Less than 1mm is actually very good. I'm certain what you're feeling is not the result of a discrepancy between hub and dropout width. Have a look at Fox's publicly available fork spec drawings and you can see their dropout spec is .5mm over axle width AND +/- 2mm in tolerance.
> 
> There are several other low-hanging fruit to address if small bump sensitivity can be improved. Regular lower-leg service is #1. Have you performed this service yet?
> 
> ...


Thanks for replying Noah. Lower leg service was done recently, a few posts back i was asking about springs and swapped back to the medium spring (from the soft) about 5 hours riding ago - i used plenty of RSP Slick Kick on the bushings when i did the swap and lowers are lubed with lower leg mix from TF Tuned suspension (i'm in the UK).

I'm running zero preload as i'm getting less than 20% sag, but the soft spring didn't feel any better. Zero compression damping, zero ramp control and rebound is set at around whatever the recommended setting is for my weight in the manual - i've tried a few clicks either way, i think it might be a click or 2 faster than the manual suggests at the moment.

I'm old enough that most of my riding has been done on coil suspension, which always seemed better for small bump sensitivity than air shocks/forks, hence why i've gone back to coil front/rear. The SuperDeluxe on the back is working well, the forks just feel a bit harsh on the smaller high frequency/chattery bumps.

With all the positive comments on here i'm sure i should be able to get the forks working better than they are at the moment.

Also, i've noticed a slight oil leak from the centre of the footnut adjuster on the ramp control side. I doubt it's leaking enough to cause what i'm describing, it's just weeping a bit of oil from the adjuster. I've had the lowers off a few times when i've been changing springs so i guess i've damaged an o-ring somehow. Does anyone know the sizes of the o-rings in the footnut assembly so i can get some replacements?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Had same issues. I ended up bleeding the damper with a lighter oil.
The damper not being shim based means oil weight is the only tuning option you have ATM.

I believe they use a 5wt I weigh 140lbs and took it down to 3wt Danico biotech. Which cost me a kidney to import from Germany but was worth it.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

lighter fluid .pun..is the only answer. a real shame.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

FactoryMatt said:


> lighter fluid is the only answer. a real shame.


Once you get the right weight it's nice though real nice.

Also from my experience heavier spring lighter oil really brings it to life. You may not use all the travel but the travel you do use will be amazing.

When I ordered my damper oil I also bought some Danico stanchion spray and soak my foam rings in it. I have almost no perceived sticktion for a few weeks after service


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

anybody knows the difference between sizes of the damper bleed cups? do i really need one for the damper bleed?


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## Mathullah (Jun 24, 2011)

New Ribbon Air owner here!

Got a brand new fork this week together with bolt-on axel and decal kit. Now I have some troubles to swap the axle nut. I took quite some effort to remove the retaining ring and it was not possible without scrating the paint around the axel hole.
It‘s mandatory the reinstall the retainig ring together with the bolt-on axel? The nut of the bolt-on axel has a slightly greater outer diameter and does not spin freely in the nut hole. Any sugestions or tips?

Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Mathullah said:


> New Ribbon Air owner here!
> 
> Got a brand new fork this week together with bolt-on axel and decal kit. Now I have some troubles to swap the axle nut. I took quite some effort to remove the retaining ring and it was not possible without scrating the paint around the axel hole.
> It's mandatory the reinstall the retainig ring together with the bolt-on axel? The nut of the bolt-on axel has a slightly greater outer diameter and does not spin freely in the nut hole. Any sugestions or tips?
> ...


Not totally necessary with the bolt-on.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

*Coil knock*

Not unlike my Boxxer coil the coil inside my Ribbon knocks or rattles at times. Not a big deal but a silent bike is much nicer. Any potential free space is taken up with a bit of preload.

Noah, can heat shrink wrap be applied to the spring? This is how the coils come on a Boxxer to reduce rattle.


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## Mathullah (Jun 24, 2011)

Thanks Noah. I think I will install the retaining ring even though it is difficult to remove it. You don't change the axle every day!
The 8mm hex (non disk side) should only be used to prevent the nut from turning, right?

Edit: I have seen only now that there is a video for the installation of the axle!
So everything is clear now!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7ShazhV2-Dk&feature=youtu.be


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

@noahcolorado
Would it be possible to convert my 27,5 Ribbon Coil to a 29 version or would that result in getting an almost new fork?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

grazertourer said:


> @noahcolorado
> Would it be possible to convert my 27,5 Ribbon Coil to a 29 version or would that result in getting an almost new fork?


No, it's easy on the coil model, you just need 29" lowers. The offset will be 46mm if you have the standard 27.5" crown.

I'm 99% sure of the above, but it's worth a call or email to our service manager.

Cheers!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Not unlike my Boxxer coil the coil inside my Ribbon knocks or rattles at times. Not a big deal but a silent bike is much nicer. Any potential free space is taken up with a bit of preload.
> 
> Noah, can heat shrink wrap be applied to the spring? This is how the coils come on a Boxxer to reduce rattle.


There is heat shrink on the coil from the factory. It's probably worth checking it hasn't migrated down the spring. That and thick grease have kept mine very quiet.

Cheers!


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## grazertourer (Apr 2, 2010)

Amazing! Thank you! I'll send an email.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

Wow...I got me some suppleness I've never known before. I also have some questions.

So, I let out the negative air. Inflated the positive to 80psi (I'm 180riding weight). Filled the negative to about 88-89psi.

I'm feeling like the LSC is not doing much when I climb the fork is really active and its sucking some of my energy when I and climbing. While my Pike was far from good, it held itself pretty high in the travel when I was climbing. With LSC totally maxed should I notice a big difference? Should I decrease the negative to less of a differential to the positive? So like...84-85?

Secondly....I am getting a big whooshing sound with each extension of the fork and it was going this right out of the box. My Cane Creek DBAIR IL wooshing as well, but the MRP Ribbin is like whooshing on steroids. Its loud. What's going on here?

The fork is brand new.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Has anyone noticed/developed a "crack" sound coming from the front of their bike with a ribbon on it? It only happens with the front of the bike takes a big/sudden hit/compression.

Bike is a 2018 GG smash.

Im troubleshooting this sound and have had a bike shop check it out and they confirmed the front hub is fine, headset area is fine and well greased/torqued etc. I clean my bike regularly and like to keep it in very good shape.

Last thing I have to try is to swap my ribbon with another fork, but to do that I have to swap the crown race and im being lazy.

Thanks!


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## dcbmx435 (Feb 21, 2019)

WoodstockMTB said:


> Wow...I got me some suppleness I've never known before. I also have some questions.
> 
> So, I let out the negative air. Inflated the positive to 80psi (I'm 180riding weight). Filled the negative to about 88-89psi.
> 
> ...


Lower the negative pressure. I run 1psi higher in my negative and the fork runs amazing. Very supple and great support throughout the travel for me. This thing will take some trialing because of its adjustability. Also, try going up 5psi on positive pressure. The lsc works but you have to make sure you have enough spring support for you and your riding style. Look at say for the initial pressure setting andtune from that point


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

phazedalx said:


> Has anyone noticed/developed a "crack" sound coming from the front of their bike with a ribbon on it? It only happens with the front of the bike takes a big/sudden hit/compression.
> 
> Bike is a 2018 GG smash.
> 
> ...


I honestly don't think we've had a single issue of creaky CSUs with the Ribbon, at least not that I can recall. We increased the stanchion and steerer overlap in the crown compared to our previous forks and that seems to have solved it.

9 times out of 10 it's the headset, but not always. I've also seen it come from the stem and sometimes even seemingly completely unrelated parts of the bike.


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## Logoffski (Dec 30, 2011)

Hello guys,
looking for upgrade myself to Ribbon coil and found that it needs some special tools for service.
As we have no MRP dealers/service here in Russia, it seems i have no choice beside self-service 

So, are these tools (Valve Handle Tool, Damper Bleed Cup )strictly required for damper bleeding, or it just ease the procedures?

Is it possible to buy it outside US or online? 

Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Logoffski said:


> Hello guys,
> looking for upgrade myself to Ribbon coil and found that it needs some special tools for service.
> As we have no MRP dealers/service here in Russia, it seems i have no choice beside self-service
> 
> ...


Very cool! We highly recommend the tools, but with some ingenuity and experience you can complete every service procedure without them (using alternatives). But keep in mind our service docs and videos are written/shown with them.

We ship globally.


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## Logoffski (Dec 30, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> But keep in mind our service docs and videos are written/shown with them.
> 
> We ship globally.


Yeah, that's where i found these things.
So, is it only direct sales?


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

dcbmx435 said:


> Lower the negative pressure. I run 1psi higher in my negative and the fork runs amazing. Very supple and great support throughout the travel for me. This thing will take some trialing because of its adjustability. Also, try going up 5psi on positive pressure. The lsc works but you have to make sure you have enough spring support for you and your riding style. Look at say for the initial pressure setting andtune from that point


Thanks...any thoughts on the whooshing sound when the fork extends after compression?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Working as intended.


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

its the sound of oil moving through the rebound valving...


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

bertil said:


> its the sound of oil moving through the rebound valving...


I figured as much. The DBAIR makes the same noise, but its much more subtle.

Really enjoy the downhill and suppleness of this fork. Feels like I finally and getting what suspension should feel like after years of Pikes and Revelations back in the day.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

phazedalx said:


> Has anyone noticed/developed a "crack" sound coming from the front of their bike with a ribbon on it? It only happens with the front of the bike takes a big/sudden hit/compression.
> 
> Bike is a 2018 GG smash.
> 
> ...


Hey, I noticed something similar as I have put the ribbon (air) onto a new bike.
Mine is like a snap, can feel it on handlebars, happens on big compression, sudden heavy braking, endo..
I haven't researched it further yet as I got injured, but it might aswell be headset or brakes? At least I hope it's not the fork.
Happy riding

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## thinkfuture (Aug 15, 2014)

Does anyone use WPL Forkboost or similar on their Ribbon? Any good reason not to use it?


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

thinkfuture said:


> Does anyone use WPL Forkboost or similar on their Ribbon? Any good reason not to use it?


Interesting, I'd never heard of that product before. The Amazon reviews look pretty good.

I don't believe in externally applying any kind stanchion lube - at all - because it attracts dust and I ride in very dusty conditions most of the time.

But this is different. And, it is kind of difficult to clean the seals. I think I'll buy some and check it out.

Also - somewhat related - I'm about halfway through a vacation with a lot of riding in central Colorado. I did the RWC / Enduro Fork Seals to my Ribbon about 2 weeks ago and the fork is working great. Honestly, I'm not sure there's a huge difference, given the original seals are already 1-piece with integrated seal and wiper. I'd have to ride the same trail back to back with original and then replacement.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

I have my 160mm 29er air sprung Ribbon for sale. It is about 9 months old and is free of stanchion scratches. $600 and I'll have it serviced at MRP on its way to you or I'll knock off $100 if you prefer to service it yourself. I've kept up with oil changes, etc. PM me if interested.


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## scandy1 (May 2, 2016)

Bought a used ribbon SL, I’ve got a week or two till I’ll have the frame it’s going on so thought I’d do a service just for the hell of it it. 
Anything I should tackle while I’m in there? Upgrades? Was thinking maybe the RWC or Push ultra low friction seals?
Different oil?


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

lightest damper oil you can find and "blueprinted" bushing tolerances.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

Since you've never ridden it, stick with a stock set up, 5wt oil, slick honey, etc. The fork rides excellent as is. Eventually buy the damper bleed tool. Make sure to sufficiently put slick honey on the inside of the seals before installing the lowers. I also found keeping my fork inverted for 10 minutes or so after service keeps things extra smooth.


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## scandy1 (May 2, 2016)

FactoryMatt said:


> lightest damper oil you can find and "blueprinted" bushing tolerances.


What do you mean by blueprinted bushing tolerances?


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## scandy1 (May 2, 2016)

foggnm said:


> Since you've never ridden it, stick with a stock set up, 5wt oil, slick honey, etc. The fork rides excellent as is. Eventually buy the damper bleed tool. Make sure to sufficiently put slick honey on the inside of the seals before installing the lowers. I also found keeping my fork inverted for 10 minutes or so after service keeps things extra smooth.


any specific brand of oil I should look at?


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

TBH i dont even know how possible it is really to lathe them out, only that slightly looser bushing fit would probably help the fork feel more supple IME. this goes for any fork.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

FactoryMatt said:


> TBH i dont even know how possible it is really to lathe them out, only that slightly looser bushing fit would probably help the fork feel more supple IME. this goes for any fork.


if it's anything like mine the bushings will be worn enough to wobble noticeably within a couple weeks anyway -- mine did after buying the fork, and again after having them replaced by mrp at 1yr service

not that it's a bad thing i guess, i love the damn fork either way


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## Mathullah (Jun 24, 2011)

ColinL said:


> Interesting, I'd never heard of that product before. The Amazon reviews look pretty good.
> 
> I don't believe in externally applying any kind stanchion lube - at all - because it attracts dust and I ride in very dusty conditions most of the time.
> 
> ...


I have had very good experiences with WPL products so far. I used Forkboost with several forks, rear shocks and dropper posts and think that there is a noticeable difference. I will also use Forkboost on my Ribbon.


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## Mathullah (Jun 24, 2011)

*Question*

I have noticed that there are several variants of decals for the Ribbon fork. Does this have a special meaning or can the inside or the model year be derived from it?

I noticed it, because my fork has a four-part decal set and the additionally ordered decals, in another color, are only three parts. The lower right front decal seems to be missing.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

phazedalx said:


> Has anyone noticed/developed a "crack" sound coming from the front of their bike with a ribbon on it? It only happens with the front of the bike takes a big/sudden hit/compression.
> 
> Bike is a 2018 GG smash.
> 
> ...


Update for this issue...

My LGS did a test:
front wheel removed, bike upside down, stand on grips and twist the fork and we could hear creaking. They said it was prolly the fork crown area.

Called MRP, talked to Eric and he had me check a few things and I ended up sending it in last Friday and the fork just came back to me yesterday with a whole new upper.

Super happy with the service/support from MRP (I have talked to Eric many other times about stupid issues I was having, almost all my fault  )

Love this fork and happy to have it back working like new!


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## dbabuser (Jan 5, 2004)

Anyone else had clunking/ loose headset feel with their Ribbon? Kinda feels like loose bushings, but it hasn't seen that much use yet.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Mathullah said:


> I have noticed that there are several variants of decals for the Ribbon fork. Does this have a special meaning or can the inside or the model year be derived from it?
> 
> I noticed it, because my fork has a four-part decal set and the additionally ordered decals, in another color, are only three parts. The lower right front decal seems to be missing.


Ribbon's initially had three decals, then a forth was added to the lower drive-side leg last year. They've most recently been updated in April. They are once again three parts: matching left and right lower leg decals and a tuning decal for the back of the damper leg.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

MRP gets the thumbs up...

Cracked 2 mounting plates from my G3/G4 MRP bashgautrd-chainguides. Very likely my own doing. Called them to see if I could get just the mounting plate. Not only could I get just that replacement part, they shipped it right out, landed in my mail box like 3 days later - and they charged me nothing !!!

Yeah, this not a post about the Ribbon (which I have) but some words to show how good these guys are with customer service.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

dbabuser said:


> Anyone else had clunking/ loose headset feel with their Ribbon? Kinda feels like loose bushings, but it hasn't seen that much use yet.


obviously, headset issues or a stem top cap not tight enough can cause it.

I've also felt something similar when experimenting with my Ribbon air. I found that if you have it set up with quite a bit more negative than positive, and have fast rebound, you can feel the fork move from sag to full extension when you lift the front wheel. As I continued to tune, I moved beyond that setting, but I did ride it that way a few times and I am not sure it's a "problem"... but I definitely felt it, even if it's normal for such a set up.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Dropped my lowers to put in a different spring. time for new dust wipers/seals and the kit doesn't come with a new sag/travel O-ring. $40 kit... why? whyyyyyyyyy??


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

gfourth said:


> Dropped my lowers to put in a different spring. time for new dust wipers/seals and the kit doesn't come with a new sag/travel O-ring. $40 kit... why? whyyyyyyyyy??


I'll see about adding that to the kit. In the meantime, if you need that o-ring, drop us a line and I'll have one sent to you.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Noah, 

Do you have an exploded view of the damper and associated o rings for a ribbon air? I found an O ring seated in the top of the crown of the fork while changing out the oil. Its not the O ring that is seated in the low speed compression cap assembly. The O ring I am talking about is larger. The O ring was preventing me from screwing in the compression cap/bleed cup assembly so I was wondering if perhaps it was something left over from the factory assembly.

Thanks

Update: Noah, I got the fork sorted out. For what it's worth, the MRP bleed instructions that I have omit removing the bleed port screw and the O ring from the compression cap during the service proceedure. I had seen the MRP bleed video and was able to get the cap/cup assembly seated after removing those items. It is not possible to install the cup/cap assembly without oil being able to displace through the bleed port. Also, I learned that the bleed cup will leak if the compression cap O ring has not been removed. 

The fork fees really good now. Full low-speed compression locks out the fork which it did not do before. I used Maxima 5W oil (blue stuff). I am still looking for the best oil to use in the lowers. Right now I am using 10W Fox (red). Its pretty good but has a little bit of stiction, so it could be better. Maybe you have a recommendation for this.

Sorry for the lame SOS. It would still be cool to seen an exploded view of the fork if you have on.

Thanks


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Those who've got a Coil Ribbon, I'm 75kg, and currently have the soft spring in. Ive bottom out hard on some steep stuff today on my first ride. 

It's by far the best fork I've ridden, but wondering if I should be on the medium. 

Would turning the ramp up all the way help with slow big compressions like on steep ground into catches?

And, do those at my weight run soft or medium springs?


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

kerpoise said:


> Those who've got a Coil Ribbon, I'm 75kg, and currently have the soft spring in. Ive bottom out hard on some steep stuff today on my first ride.
> 
> It's by far the best fork I've ridden, but wondering if I should be on the medium.
> 
> ...


I'm 65 kg on a 160mm 29er ribbon coil I've gone back and forth between x-soft and soft, and have settled on the soft. It's firm, but very controlled in the chattery stuff (and buttery smooth when I service the lowers regularly). My guess is that you'd like the medium. Only 1 way to find out . . .

but go for the low hanging fruit first and add some clicks of ramp control.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

kerpoise said:


> Those who've got a Coil Ribbon, I'm 75kg, and currently have the soft spring in. Ive bottom out hard on some steep stuff today on my first ride.
> 
> It's by far the best fork I've ridden, but wondering if I should be on the medium


 you could increase the preload on the soft and do more compression damping and more ramp control. At 78kg, I rode the medium and it felt great. Only used full travel where I expected to.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

You want medium. This is not a fork you want to focus on using full travel.
This is more about the quality of the travel you do use


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Super useful tips everyone 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I'm 175lbs (~79kg) and the medium works well for me for all travels (140-170). I ran the soft spring for my 170mm fork for awhile, but as I got into race and bike park season I started having some pretty big bottom-outs frequently. Even maxing-out Ramp Control didn't tame it.


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

Just chiming in to say that I recently picked up a used bike with a 150mm Ribbon Air. Overall feel was much better than the Pike RC I was coming from (even after a shim stack tune). Damping performance was very good through stuff that would unsettle the Pike, but I felt like I couldn't quite get the small bump compliance to be where I wanted it, even with a fair bit of fiddling with air pressure, ramp control, and running LSC wide open, at the expense of a little more brake dive than I wanted. Felt like it had some unnecessary stiction as well. The seller had said the fork had been serviced only a few weeks before selling, but after reading Noah's comments about experimenting with higher weight oils in the lowers, I decided I might as well do a lower leg service to see what's up.

Opened it up.. wasn't dry, but also didn't seem like anywhere close to 15cc per side. Decided to pull the air spring while i was at it. There was plenty of slick honey on it, but added some more on the seals and a good smear on the inside of the stanchion before re-installing. Had some 15W Maxima Fork Oil, so put ~15cc of that in each leg. Lubed up the wiper seals with slick honey as well, put everything back together. 

Only have one ride on it since the service, but it feels so much better now. Was able to up the air pressure a bit compared to before the service while still having the same or better initial stroke suppleness. Was also able to use a few clicks of LSC for some additional chassis control/stability and even then it felt a bit more supple than before service. 

Without knowing how much use the fork actually saw between the last service and me getting it, and also without knowing what oil was used at that last service, it'll be tough to know if I've actually extended the service interval at all, but at least its feeling really fresh now and I also know it's not hard to bring it back to then when needed.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

radam25 said:


> Only have one ride on it since the service, but it feels so much better now. Was able to up the air pressure a bit compared to before the service while still having the same or better initial stroke suppleness. Was also able to use a few clicks of LSC for some additional chassis control/stability and even then it felt a bit more supple than before service.


Yeah I've noticed with this fork that a lowers rebuild makes a HUGE difference. I wonder if losing oil is a common thing? It seems like you really need to respect the 50 hour rebuild interval.

I had my fork factory serviced, immediately went off and did a 2 week bike park trip, and by the end it felt pretty horrible. I had turned the lsc and ramp all the way off, and the rebound full fast to compensate.

Rebuilt the lowers today to find zero oil in the spring side. Wiped it out and filled it up and it's a new fork-- buttery smooth! Gotta stay on top of it!


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Flipping the bike over to let the oil in the lowers lubricate the bushings before a ride also helps massively, otherwise, the fork oil just pools in the lowers and is pointless.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

olslash said:


> Yeah I've noticed with this fork that a lowers rebuild makes a HUGE difference. I wonder if losing oil is a common thing? It seems like you really need to respect the 50 hour rebuild interval.


I think dry lowers are the big contributor to 90% of the "issues" people report. Keeping to a regular schedule of changing your bath oil and lubing your air spring is the best way to keep your fork feeling awesome. I think people are intimidated about taking the lowers off the fork, but all it takes is doing it once to realize it's pretty dang easy. Heck, with today's trend towards internal cable routing, it's often a heckuva lot easier than replacing cables and housing!

Especially if you feel like your fork as changed, don't start messing with a setup you were previously happy with, crack it open and lube it up!


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Cheers Noah,

I've changed over to the medium spring, and it feels much more supportive. 

One question - when reinstalling the foot nuts, the spring side tightened up to 9nm fine, but the damper side gets to around 5nm and then just spins if you try to tighten it further. 

I've followed the detailed instructions, but it feels like the footnut can't get enough purchase to tighten down.

Any ideas?

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## elcap23 (Sep 14, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> Cheers Noah,
> 
> I've changed over to the medium spring, and it feels much more supportive.
> 
> ...


I had a similar problem when changing the spring and realized that I had switched the foot nuts. Try switching them and see if everything tightens up evenly. FYI, during my DIY spring swap, I called MRP and they helped me on the spot. Great company and customer service.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> Cheers Noah,
> 
> I've changed over to the medium spring, and it feels much more supportive.
> 
> ...


when this happened to me, it was because the thing was actually broken. MRP confirmed that they had a "soft batch", and sent me 2 new ones.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

elcap23 said:


> I had a similar problem when changing the spring and realized that I had switched the foot nuts. Try switching them and see if everything tightens up evenly. FYI, during my DIY spring swap, I called MRP and they helped me on the spot. Great company and customer service.


Why would that matter? The foot nuts are the same part. They should be interchangeable.

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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

olslash said:


> when this happened to me, it was because the thing was actually broken. MRP confirmed that they had a "soft batch", and sent me 2 new ones.


Could you continue riding with the footnut not at 8nm?

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> One question - when reinstalling the foot nuts, the spring side tightened up to 9nm fine, but the damper side gets to around 5nm and then just spins if you try to tighten it further.
> 
> I've followed the detailed instructions, but it feels like the footnut can't get enough purchase to tighten down.
> 
> Any ideas?


Our Service Manager Eric is out of the office today, but I just talked to Alex in assembly. He suggested taking the lowers back off and cleaning the ends of the rods with alcohol. This might help them not spin in the casting press-fit.

Alternatively, or in tandem with this, you can push on the fork and see if the compression helps the rods seat further into the casting and then allows you to get the bottom footbolts any tighter.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Our Service Manager Eric is out of the office today, but I just talked to Alex in assembly. He suggested taking the lowers back off and cleaning the ends of the rods with alcohol. This might help them not spin in the casting press-fit.
> 
> Alternatively, or in tandem with this, you can push on the fork and see if the compression helps the rods seat further into the casting and then allows you to get the bottom footbolts any tighter.


Thanks Noah, that makes total sense. I should be able to clean the end of the damper rods with IPA by cracking the lowers off the ends a bit, and using a shop towel.

Ive probably got a bit of lowers oil on the bottom inside of the lower too, I'll mop that up with some towels and IPA.

Cheers man, super appreciate the help

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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Well then, rode a mix of stuff today on the medium spring. If I was racing, this would be the spring is ride. Very controlled, sits high in the travel. Not quite as much grip or comfort as the soft though. 

I also had the ramp control wound all the way off, and still had a good inch left of travel at the end. 

I've popped the soft back in, and wound the ramp control all the way on, added 6 turns of preload, and 5 clicks of LSC. 

Let's see how that goes tomorrow! 

I'm 72-74kg, and ride what most folk would consider steep and rooty. 

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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

olslash said:


> when this happened to me, it was because the thing was actually broken. MRP confirmed that they had a "soft batch", and sent me 2 new ones.


Same here, once. Basically if the foot nut spins real easy, it may be broken, but if it spins with some friction the rods may be spinning in the casting bores. Kerpoise dial the compression to full closed and compress the fork while tightening, see if that helps


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Ok... How many clicks of rebound does everyone have? I've counted 27 (!). 

The rebound knob does make a difference in each setting, and I have fully fast and fully slow. 

What the hell is going on? 

Just in case, I switched over the footnuts, but still the same. 

The rebound adjuster does make a bit of a rubbery squeak when turning it - and that's coming from the rod or the damper. 

Any ideas?

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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

You start out counting from max rebound and wind it out. Any clicks after 16 (16-27 in your case) are the same - wide open.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

It was a mystery to me until this morning how the full open stop is created on the rebound adjuster knob, damper screw stops out on the end of the indexing foot nut open rebound. Doh!

I'm having the same issue with the damper rod just spinninng in the casting after tightening the indexing foot nut. I'm able to get it somewhat tight. I just check it periodically to make sure it is snug. The damper rod is fully seated in the casting so I am OK with the situation.

On another topic, I've been struggling to get my fork dialed. With the large air volume on my 170 I'm finding that there is a pressure sweet spot (about 57.5 psi for my weight) where the fork is neither punishing and I get full travel. Any higher and the fork pings off of everything unless I am going Mach 99, and any lower and fork sits way too lower in the travel and is sluggish.


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## gfourth (Apr 12, 2009)

Any lighter riders use maxima plush 3wt as damper oil? Looking to take the edge off the soft spring


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> Ok... How many clicks of rebound does everyone have? I've counted 27 (!).
> 
> The rebound knob does make a difference in each setting, and I have fully fast and fully slow.
> 
> ...


The average used to be around 18 clicks, now through some production changes the average is around 25.

Coil forks generally take less rebound damping than air forks.

What is the issue you're having?


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> The average used to be around 18 clicks, now through some production changes the average is around 25.
> 
> Coil forks generally take less rebound damping than air forks.
> 
> What is the issue you're having?


Thanks Noah, no issues - just wondering if I'd unwound the adjuster too far! Sounds like it's normal, so I'm all good 

My decals on the lowers still say 18 clicks of rebound, hence my confusion. But totally get you guys are small, so no worries at all.

Really pleased with the fork, on the first ride I turned to my rising buddies and said 'This is the best bike purchase I've ever made'.

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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

Been having some trouble getting my ribbon sl 130 to feel good. In general just feels a bit harsh, I started at around 80 psi, then 77, now I’m at about 73-74ish and about 82 in the neg spring. and I’m bottoming regularly which I kinda expect on a 130 fork, but because of that I don’t want to go much lower, and lowering the pressure honestly hasn’t helped much. Running compression fully open, I’ll have to check rebound.

It feels pretty harsh in the first 1/3 of its travel, as in jarring through the bars on hits I wouldn’t think you should feel too much. And you can feel the lack of front end traction because of it, wants to skip around a lot. I’m running my front tire (2.4 dhr) at 19-20 psi too. 

My next thought would be to try tokens, and drop the pressure some. Or lower pressure and add some compression? I’ve been going for 10% more neg vs positive spring pressure, should I just try 10psi more? 

Any thoughts?


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Scandy101 said:


> Been having some trouble getting my ribbon sl 130 to feel good. In general just feels a bit harsh, I started at around 80 psi, then 77, now I'm at about 73-74ish and about 82 in the neg spring. and I'm bottoming regularly which I kinda expect on a 130 fork, but because of that I don't want to go much lower, and lowering the pressure honestly hasn't helped much. Running compression fully open, I'll have to check rebound.
> 
> It feels pretty harsh in the first 1/3 of its travel, as in jarring through the bars on hits I wouldn't think you should feel too much. And you can feel the lack of front end traction because of it, wants to skip around a lot. I'm running my front tire (2.4 dhr) at 19-20 psi too.
> 
> ...


It sounds like you may be running too little pressure in your positive, AND too little compression damping too.

If you run lots of sag, you can end up riding the fork where it ramps up the most, and you get a very harsh fork.

I'd start with checking your sag (it's just a starting point, but it's a good reference), and that it's around 20-25%. Less than that on a 130 is gonna be too much.

Another warning sign is you're bottoming the fork out. You should only bottom the fork in extreme situations really, I like to have just a little less than an inch left after most of my rides, so when I do mess up, the fork is only gonna bottom out very rarely.

Too little compression damping. If you don't run compression damping, you run straight into the peak force of the air spring, which will feel harsh. If you have zero compression damping, and an undersprung fork, it will feel really harsh and explain what you're feeling.

Try running the middle amount of clicks of compression, ride your bike, then zero clicks, ride again. What feels least harsh? If it's zero, add one click and ride - better, or worse? Better.. add another click and repeat. Worse, your previous setting was best.

If it was middle amount of clicks, run one less than the middle.

If that's better again take another click off, if it's now worse, add one click past the middle setting. Repeat.

You can do exactly the same for rebound damping.

There's two different problems if you have not enough, or too much rebound damping. Too much, and the fork can't recover and gets stuck on small bumps. Too little, and the fork feels uncontrolled and slapping you in the hands. Generally, you're aiming for the least amount of rebound damping that doesn't feel out of control.

Tokens... If you're feeling harshness, tokens won't help that. Tokens help make the fork more progressive and less likely to bottom out. But you're making the force required to compress the fork greater. I see them as the last thing to try, after you've got sag, compression and rebound as good as you can.

You add them if you find yourself blowing through the travel, or remove them if you can't get close to full travel.

One other thing to try, is before you ride, turn the bike upside down for 3 minutes. That'll get the oil to move into the foam rings and coat the bushings. It's surprising how much stichion can be caused by dry foam rings.

To help the group help you better... What's your riding weight, and what are your current settings on your fork?

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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

Scandy101 said:


> Been having some trouble getting my ribbon sl 130 to feel good. In general just feels a bit harsh, I started at around 80 psi, then 77, now I'm at about 73-74ish and about 82 in the neg spring. and I'm bottoming regularly which I kinda expect on a 130 fork, but because of that I don't want to go much lower, and lowering the pressure honestly hasn't helped much. Running compression fully open, I'll have to check rebound.
> 
> It feels pretty harsh in the first 1/3 of its travel, as in jarring through the bars on hits I wouldn't think you should feel too much. And you can feel the lack of front end traction because of it, wants to skip around a lot. I'm running my front tire (2.4 dhr) at 19-20 psi too.
> 
> ...


Stiction. I would suggest a service and check the bushings for tightness


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

JohnnyC7 said:


> Stiction. I would suggest a service and check the bushings for tightness


I'd be surprised, I bought the fork with 50 miles on it, I've put maybe another 150 on it, and it hasn't gotten worse in that time. I'm thinking of doing a service just to eliminate that variable


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

kerpoise said:


> It sounds like you may be running too little pressure in your positive, AND too little compression damping too.
> 
> If you run lots of sag, you can end up riding the fork where it ramps up the most, and you get a very harsh fork.
> 
> ...


Rebounds 13 clicks from open, sag is a smidge over 20, that's standing up, trying to weight the bars/pedals equally. you may be right about the compression. I'm used to my lyrik which I could never get to feel good with any more than a couple clicks of compression.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Scandy101 said:


> Rebounds 13 clicks from open, sag is a smidge over 20, that's standing up, trying to weight the bars/pedals equally. you may be right about the compression. I'm used to my lyrik which I could never get to feel good with any more than a couple clicks of compression.


Yeah, my Ribbon feels plush with 4 clicks of compression, and super stable with 5. If I run zero it feels harsh as it goes through the travel too quickly. Your rebound actually sounds about right for the pressure you're running.

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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Scandy101 said:


> I'd be surprised, I bought the fork with 50 miles on it, I've put maybe another 150 on it, and it hasn't gotten worse in that time. I'm thinking of doing a service just to eliminate that variable


If you bought it used I'd definitely open it up and check bath oil. I'd make sure that was all good before doing virtually any tuning.

Did you mention how much you weigh?

I disagree about "expecting to bottom a 130mm fork more often." Unless you're straight up hucking it.

My inclination would be to go higher in pressure, not lower, based on what you're saying.


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> If you bought it used I'd definitely open it up and check bath oil. I'd make sure that was all good before doing virtually any tuning.
> 
> Did you mention how much you weigh?
> 
> ...


I'm around 170 kitted up. This is the shortest travel fork I've ever had so I was assuming bottoming would be more common. Good to know that shouldn't be the case!

I'm thinking I will go ahead and do a lower leg service at the least.

You're probably right that I may need to go higher in pressure, since going from 80 to 73 didn't make any noticeable improvement.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Scandy101 said:


> I'm around 170 kitted up. This is the shortest travel fork I've ever had so I was assuming bottoming would be more common. Good to know that shouldn't be the case!
> 
> I'm thinking I will go ahead and do a lower leg service at the least.
> 
> You're probably right that I may need to go higher in pressure, since going from 80 to 73 didn't make any noticeable improvement.


I'm a little heavier than you (175) and I run 86/93 with one small Huck Puck. Fork is definitely not harsh anywhere and while I do get full travel often, I never feel it bottom out hard.

Cheers!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

JohnnyC7 said:


> Stiction. I would suggest a service and check the bushings for tightness


 I've ordered some 29 lowers and I'm worried they will be tight. I bought my fork used from a mechanic who said he "resized" the bushings.
If the new lowers are tighter then I like is there anything I can do at home? Both my lbs are useless in regards to suspension so that's not an option.


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm a little heavier than you (175) and I run 86/93 with one small Huck Puck. Fork is definitely not harsh anywhere and while I do get full travel often, I never feel it bottom out hard.
> 
> Cheers!


Ah ok that definitely makes it sound like I just went in the wrong direction by immediately trying lower pressure. In regards to the positive/negative pressures, am I right by going by 10% higher max? Or should I be going for 10psi higher max?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Scandy101 said:


> In regards to the positive/negative pressures, am I right by going by 10% higher max? Or should I be going for 10psi higher max?


Try both! +10 psi seems to be the max difference before the the negative spring starts to overwhelm the positive and you begin to lose travel. 10% more is a common setup. I typically like 6-8 psi more.


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> Try both! +10 psi seems to be the max difference before the the negative spring starts to overwhelm the positive and you begin to lose travel. 10% more is a common setup. I typically like 6-8 psi more.


So today I took all the air out of both positive and negative springs, compressed the fork all the way, presses the air release buttons (which released a significant amount of air).

Filled up the positive, then I noticed when filling the negative spring, it starts to suck the fork down before I even reach the positive spring pressure. I filled the positive to 82, and watched the fork as I was pumping, even around 50 psi the fork was dropping a tad, around 70-80 it seemed to drop down a good 1/3 inch or so, the pressure guage would drop down maybe 5-10 psi, I'd fill it more, fork drops more. I set the negative at about 88 but seems like it took up between 1/2-3/4" of travel.

That normal? Or does that tell you anything?


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

When you compressed the forks and bled the equalization valves on the lowers you are creating negative pressure when the fork is extended. You need to hit the equalization valves again. Those valves are for equalizing pressure because of swings in altitude and to blow off trapped air. They have nothing to do with the air spring.


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

polarflux said:


> When you compressed the forks and bled the equalization valves on the lowers you are creating negative pressure when the fork is extended. You need to hit the equalization valves again. Those valves are for equalizing pressure because of swings in altitude and to blow off trapped air. They have nothing to do with the air spring.


I was wondering.. seemed odd how much air they let out. My local suspension tuner said to try that, not sure why.


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## Scandy101 (Feb 10, 2015)

polarflux said:


> When you compressed the forks and bled the equalization valves on the lowers you are creating negative pressure when the fork is extended. You need to hit the equalization valves again. Those valves are for equalizing pressure because of swings in altitude and to blow off trapped air. They have nothing to do with the air spring.


SO I set the positive pressure, released the negative pressure, removed the pump, pressed the pressure release buttons(didn't hear any air come out) checked positive pressure again just Incase, then filled the negative. It still shrinks a tad, but much less than before, starts around 70psi, I ended up at about 82 and 90. The fork lost maybe 1/4" of travel. Where before it was 1/2 to 3/4.

still feel like it shouldn't be shrinking..


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Scandy101 said:


> So today I took all the air out of both positive and negative springs, compressed the fork all the way, presses the air release buttons (which released a significant amount of air).
> 
> Filled up the positive, then I noticed when filling the negative spring, it starts to suck the fork down before I even reach the positive spring pressure. I filled the positive to 82, and watched the fork as I was pumping, even around 50 psi the fork was dropping a tad, around 70-80 it seemed to drop down a good 1/3 inch or so, the pressure guage would drop down maybe 5-10 psi, I'd fill it more, fork drops more. I set the negative at about 88 but seems like it took up between 1/2-3/4" of travel.


If you fully compress the fork and release the PSST valves you're gonna create a vacuum in the lowers when you fill the positive chamber. Only release the PSST valves when the fork is extended or when slightly cycling the fork.

Since you did this, make sure AFTER you equalize the pressure in the lowers you go back to the positive and top it up. It's possible it wasn't fully extended before.

Next, all forks have top-out bumpers. Some of the "shrinking" you see is the rebounding of the top-out bumper as force on it is relieved with negative spring pressure. You are not losing travel, rather your fork is going from hyperextended to a normal position.

Also, as you approach equal pressure in the negative chamber, pump slowly. It is low-volume chamber and if you put too much air in you can blow past equal and the fork WILL start to shrink if you go too far.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So I ordered some 29 lowers for my 27.5 ribbon coil. Now when I install them will give me a Max of 160mm right?

Also thanks to mrp for deciding I should have free shipping you guys are awesome.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I ordered some 29 lowers for my 27.5 ribbon coil. Now when I install them will give me a Max of 160mm right?
> 
> Also thanks to mrp for deciding I should have free shipping you guys are awesome.


What was your fork built as originally?

If it was a 27.5" coil, yes. Just make sure you set the spring assembly to the right setting.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> What was your fork built as originally?
> 
> If it was a 27.5" coil, yes. Just make sure you set the spring assembly to the right setting.


 It was air I converted to coil. Does that make a difference?


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## mrsa101 (Jul 19, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> If you fully compress the fork and release the PSST valves you're gonna create a vacuum in the lowers when you fill the positive chamber. Only release the PSST valves when the fork is extended or when slightly cycling the fork.
> 
> Since you did this, make sure AFTER you equalize the pressure in the lowers you go back to the positive and top it up. It's possible it wasn't fully extended before.
> 
> ...


Ok with how little it shrunk im guessing that was the top out bumper.

Tried it yesterday with 82/90. 12 from open rebound, anywhere from 0-5 compression. didnt notice an increase in harshness going up about 10 psi, so thats a good sign.
I liked the small/medium hit and traction with as little compression as I could get away with. but for the bigger and repeated hits the front felt like it would get bucked off line easy still. I was still reaching full travel, on a trail I wouldnt expect to.

Im thinking i'll try a little more pressure so i can keep the compression more open, maybe a little more open on the rebound too.

You cant do a coil conversion on a 130SL can you? that would be a dream short travel fork


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

mrsa101 said:


> Ok with how little it shrunk im guessing that was the top out bumper.
> 
> Tried it yesterday with 82/90. 12 from open rebound, anywhere from 0-5 compression. didnt notice an increase in harshness going up about 10 psi, so thats a good sign.
> I liked the small/medium hit and traction with as little compression as I could get away with. but for the bigger and repeated hits the front felt like it would get bucked off line easy still. I was still reaching full travel, on a trail I wouldnt expect to.
> ...


More pressure or add a Huck Puck.

Coil options start at 140 and you can't put the guts in a Ribbon SL chassis. Plus, the linearity of coil is tough to manage in a short-travel application.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Are the lowers anodized or painted? I would like polish them to glossy if possible.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Are the lowers anodized or painted? I would like polish them to glossy if possible.


have fun with that.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

FactoryMatt said:


> have fun with that.


 No just some polishing on the paint to take it from matte to glossy. I do it all the time and my new build is going to be high gloss.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

you're killing me lol. just ride the thing 

it's pretty thin, pretty soft paint. maybe try a good clear coat. and kiss resale goodbye if that matters.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I'm an artist.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

I'm going to pull the 150mm 29er Ribbon Coil off my GG and get the damper serviced soon by Suspension Werx in BC. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm not up on the technical details of these fork dampers. Can I get the damper tuned by a MRP Service Centre like you would say a Fox or RS fork?

I haven't heard about anyone getting their Ribbon damper custom tuned which seems odd if it were something you could get done pretty easily.

Assuming nobody is custom tuning these forks by changing shim stacks/valving/etc... can I reduce the damping by requesting lighter than spec oil be used? I'm running the compression setting wide open and nearly wide open on rebound so I'd like to get the fork tuned to an even lighter setting than stock.

Any feedback welcome!

_FWIW - I reached out to SW and MRP directly. I don't expect to hear from them until next week, but I'll post up any info I get in case anyone else is interested._


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Oil is the only option at the moment.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Oil is the only option at the moment.


Thanks. At least that's easy to do. I'll chat with SW about what they suggest.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

vikb said:


> Assuming nobody is custom tuning these forks by changing shim stacks/valving/etc... can I reduce the damping by requesting lighter than spec oil be used? I'm running the compression setting wide open and nearly wide open on rebound so I'd like to get the fork tuned to an even lighter setting than stock.
> [/I]


for what it's worth, I thought i needed the same thing -- i had my compression fully open and my rebound fully fast. I was asking the same kind of questions you just did about tuning. But after servicing the lowers and refreshing the oil (with the stock 10w(?) oil), it basically became a completely new fork. I realized the reason I had needed to run things fully open was that i had been compensating for a crusty unserviced fork. The time it took to get to that state was about 50 hours of riding.

I suggest before you pay someone to do the damper, you do a basic lowers rebuild yourself--which takes like 15 minutes--and see how it feels. It seems like something that could not possibly have such a big effect, but it really does.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

olslash said:


> I suggest before you pay someone to do the damper, you do a basic lowers rebuild yourself--which takes like 15 minutes--and see how it feels. It seems like something that could not possibly have such a big effect, but it really does.


The fork has felt the same since new and I have serviced the lowers myself. There was no change. The initial stroke of the fork feels supple, spring rate feels appropriate and the only area where I would like to make a change is for higher speed repeated hits.

The fork is due a damper service regardless of any tuning that could be done. I just figured I'd explore any tuning options since I was going to get the damper serviced anyways.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

vikb said:


> The fork has felt the same since new and I have serviced the lowers myself. There was no change. The initial stroke of the fork feels supple, spring rate feels appropriate and the only area where I would like to make a change is for higher speed repeated hits.
> 
> The fork is due a damper service regardless of any tuning that could be done. I just figured I'd explore any tuning options since I was going to get the damper serviced anyways.


 Ya that's what I concluded. There is no hsc adjustment so oil is the only answer.
I love mine now but I will say that my lsc adjust doesn't do much anymore.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

check out shockcraft's line of temperature-specific fork oils. he goes high end with good viscosity indexes (less impervious to temp change). the Ribbon, IME, with stock oil is VERY sensitive to ambient temp change.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Does anyone know where to get the crush washers for the foot bolts? They're thin shims, one got damaged changing the spring, I've replaced with a spare shim, but the OD is too wide, and it's a bit too thick. 

Or... Does anyone have the ID and OD to hand? I didn't measure before reassembling.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> Does anyone know where to get the crush washers for the foot bolts? They're thin shims, one got damaged changing the spring, I've replaced with a spare shim, but the OD is too wide, and it's a bit too thick.
> 
> Or... Does anyone have the ID and OD to hand? I didn't measure before reassembling.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


probably the same size as a hope brake banjo bolt crush washer.

https://mrpbike.com/collections/suspension/products/damper-bolt-or-air-spring-bolt

either M6 or M8?

https://www.google.com/search?q=m6+...0.0j69i57j0.2249j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

Saw some new lower friction internals were announced at EuroBike. Noah, will these be backwards-compatible?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

radam25 said:


> Saw some new lower friction internals were announced at EuroBike. Noah, will these be backwards-compatible?


I need to work with engineering this week and put together some packages for updates. I'll post up more on this later in the week!


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

Sweet! I don't have any complaints about my Ribbon after doing an oil change, but would definitely consider an upgrade if the price is right when it comes time to do the next service.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Is there a common issue with creaking / clicking steerers on the Ribbon? A couple of days hard riding in the Alps, and I've developed a click on compression. 

Changed out and regressed the headset, but still there, so just eliminating the possible causes.

100% headset area issue. 

Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk


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## bigbangus (Oct 28, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> I need to work with engineering this week and put together some packages for updates. I'll post up more on this later in the week!


Just purchased a new MRP Air 130 29" 51mm about a week ago... feeling some FOMO on these new chocoluxe seals.

Hope they are smooth like Johnny Depp in Chocolat, but don't leave me broke like Johnny Depp in real life.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

bigbangus said:


> Just purchased a new MRP Air 130 29" 51mm about a week ago... feeling some FOMO on these new chocoluxe seals.
> 
> Hope they are smooth like Johnny Depp in Chocolat, but don't end up broke like Johnny Depp in real life.


Definitely hope there is a prior version upgrade. I'm all for smoother action.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> Is there a common issue with creaking / clicking steerers on the Ribbon? A couple of days hard riding in the Alps, and I've developed a click on compression.
> 
> Changed out and regressed the headset, but still there, so just eliminating the possible causes.
> 
> 100% headset area issue.


do you hear it just compressing the fork in the parking lot?

I had/have a pronounced click right at the top of the travel as I compress the fork. When I sent it in for service, they told me it was because there was some air in the damper. Sure enough, it came back without the noise -- but it returned after about a week of riding. Not super excited to send my fork back again, and it doesn't seem to affect riding, so i've learned to live with it.


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

I just came here to say how much the Ribbon coil continues to impress me. Had it for about 1.5 years, and after the first few weeks of dialing it in, it's been really great. 

I just got back from a day of shuttling chunky Lake Tahoe trails and was so pleased with the performance. It ate up so many fast square edges and aggressive (poor) line choices, staying completely composed the whole time. I also really like the PSST valves for days like this, where I'm riding at much higher elevation than at my home.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Sid Duffman said:


> I just came here to say how much the Ribbon coil continues to impress me. Had it for about 1.5 years, and after the first few weeks of dialing it in, it's been really great.


That's awesome to hear! The Ribbon Coil is still my favorite too! That reminds me, I really need to go hit up a Whole Enchilada run soon!


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> That's awesome to hear! The Ribbon Coil is still my favorite too! That reminds me, I really need to go hit up a Whole Enchilada run soon!


I've just spent a week in the French Alps, and the Ribbon Coil has been superb. With an air fork I usually have destroyed hands after a week, but the coil is amazingly comfortable.

Have to say thanks Noah, for the recommendation of going up to the medium spring at 165lb. No big bottoming out, hugely supportive, and super plush.

Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> I've just spent a week in the French Alps, and the Ribbon Coil has been superb. With an air fork I usually have destroyed hands after a week, but the coil is amazingly comfortable.
> 
> Have to say thanks Noah, for the recommendation of going up to the medium spring at 165lb. No big bottoming out, hugely supportive, and super plush.


Rad! Love hearing stuff like this. I need to get to the alps at some point for some "testing."


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

kerpoise said:


> I've just spent a week in the French Alps, and the Ribbon Coil has been superb. With an air fork I usually have destroyed hands after a week, but the coil is amazingly comfortable.


 It is a spectacular fork. I'm riding an air fork now but can definitely tell the difference in the roughest terrain. I'm just waiting for MRP to release a 170mm 29er fork so I can go back to a ribbon/coil.


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## Sanchofula (Dec 30, 2007)

MRP protype air shock ?

Seriously, I know there has to be one coming, how else can the Ribbon SL be paired on an XC bike?

Please make it soon, I'm building up a Trail Pistol for endurance riding and I'd to have to run Fox stuff ?



NoahColorado said:


> No more Switchblade for me, sold it last spring. Currently have a Vault, Trail 429, and a Firebird 27.5 (for sale). Firebird 29 and Les 29 coming soon.
> 
> When I had it: first DPS, then CCDB Air CS, then Float X2, sometimes Monarch R, and lastly, an MRP prototype shock.


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## phazedalx (Jun 22, 2007)

Well dudes, just got my ribbon coil back from MRP with the chocolate goodies (and updated bushings i believe). Gonna put it on tonight and take the bike to Angel Fire for a long weekend.

Initial test just pushing the fork down on the floor feels real good though. Can't wait.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

My coil feels a wee bit harsh after coming back from the Alps. I popped the preload and it feels like the shrink wrap on the coil is folding into the inside of the spring a bit. Is that normal? 

I've had the fork apart a fair bit swapping springs, so can't be bothered to pull it apart right now! 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

*How to reassemble the Ribbon?*

I attempted to do the 50 hour service (clean and lube the lowers) on my Ribbon Coil. Things seemed to go fine until the final step of reattaching the foot nuts. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Problems:

1. The lowers are not threaded. What are the foot nuts supposed to thread into? (First image, close-up image of the openings in the lowers.)

2. When removing the adjuster for the left (Ramp Control) side, an additional component sometimes comes with the adjuster. But not always. (Second image, with component indicated.)

3. The adjuster on the right (damper) side simply turns and turns, never becoming tight. This seems to make sense, as I don't see what the adjuster would be threading into.

I don't think the lowers were threaded and stripped, as I didn't apply 8 Nm of torque, let alone excessive torque, the holes in the lowers don't appear to be damaged, and there was no metal debris.

Thank you!


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## bertil (Jul 22, 2014)

the foot nuts are threaded into the damper/spring rods. my rebound nut looks like the one on the right side (i have a ribbon air). and yes, mine keeps on turning an turning as well (nowhere near the 8NM) but seems to seal anyway


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

bertil, thanks for the quick reply. Your confirmation the foot nuts thread into the damper rods prompted me to look harder.

The problem was found: I had the adjusters backed out, not screwed in. No threads were showing in the damper rods and the damper rods would turn before the adjusters would turn, so the damper rod threads remained inaccessible. I was able to hold the damper rods and turn the adjusters manually with a 2.5 mm hex, exposing the damper rod threads. The foot nuts could then be threaded in as intended.

Thanks again for your help!


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

I'm having a lot of problems with my Ribbon Air 29. It's 140mm travel. I weigh anywhere between 190 and 200 depending on pizza and beer intake. Maybe Noah or someone can weigh in. 

My problem seems to be that the fork stiffens up as a ride goes on. It starts buttery smooth and then as time passes on the ride it stiffens up to the point that it feels like the fork is being yanked out of my hands. 

MRP has had the fork twice and claims they have fixed the issue. The first time they said there was a knick on the inside of the stanchion between the positive and negative that was causing the negative air to be pushed into positive and then after a few hours had passed of the bike sitting, the pressure would normalize and would show similar readings on my digital shock pump to when I started. 

I most recently got it back again and they said they replaced the entire air spring and changed the oils and seals. 

I took it to a suspension shop near me and we did a little different tuning. I was running around 85+ and 92-. No LSC and No ramp knobs. We lowered all the way down to 68+ and 68-. He basically only adds enough negative to get the first 10mm to move the O-ring. I honestly couldn't follow exactly what he was saying but I was doing my best. 

That felt better but was waaaayyy off of recommendations on the pressure chart. So I rode it. Like I said, felt a little better. At least I was using all the travel which I guess I hadn't been before. Still doesn't feel great through high speed rooty sections. I thought maybe it was riding too low in the travel, like the mid-stroke, and that was causing the stiffness. 

So I upped it back to about 75+ and 83- and that was giving me 25% sag. Ridden it twice since then and it still just does not feel very compliant. It's so weird because sometimes it's ok. And sometimes it's not. Usually as a ride goes on it gets worse. I'm really just at a loss at this point. MRP swears there is nothing internally wrong and that it's a set up issue. Fine, that may be true, but there's no way I would have considered dropping 30psi below their recommendation and considered that to be "normal". 

I'm getting close to wanting to sell it but I really like MRP as a company and I don't really want to go through all that. I want this to work. I just can't figure it out.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

I'm sorry you're having problems, I'll see if I can help.



sternomac said:


> My problem seems to be that the fork stiffens up as a ride goes on. It starts buttery smooth and then as time passes on the ride it stiffens up to the point that it feels like the fork is being yanked out of my hands.


Is the change you're noticing observed while riding, or is it the case that if you stop, it's hard to initiate travel? Like, does it feel one way cycling through the stroke at the beginning of a ride vs. after?



sternomac said:


> The first time they said there was a knick on the inside of the stanchion between the positive and negative that was causing the negative air to be pushed into positive and then after a few hours had passed of the bike sitting, the pressure would normalize and would show similar readings on my digital shock pump to when I started.


Not sure how this could physically happen. Generally when air moves from one chamber to another, it doesn't go back! But I'm not a scientist. 



sternomac said:


> I most recently got it back again and they said they replaced the entire air spring and changed the oils and seals.


That's typical if fork comes back twice, we throw everything at it. Sounds like a new stachion and air spring assembly.



sternomac said:


> I took it to a suspension shop near me and we did a little different tuning. I was running around 85+ and 92-. No LSC and No ramp knobs. We lowered all the way down to 68+ and 68-. He basically only adds enough negative to get the first 10mm to move the O-ring. I honestly couldn't follow exactly what he was saying but I was doing my best.
> 
> That felt better but was waaaayyy off of recommendations on the pressure chart. So I rode it. Like I said, felt a little better. At least I was using all the travel which I guess I hadn't been before. Still doesn't feel great through high speed rooty sections. I thought maybe it was riding too low in the travel, like the mid-stroke, and that was causing the stiffness.


68psi for a 140mm fork and a guy your size sounds low to me, but it's all preference in the end. Equal negative pressure is pretty rare setup though, I always do a little more. Your fork will begin to compress as you approach and pass equal pressure, but that's the top-out bumper relaxing, not loss of travel.



sternomac said:


> So I upped it back to about 75+ and 83- and that was giving me 25% sag. Ridden it twice since then and it still just does not feel very compliant. It's so weird because sometimes it's ok. And sometimes it's not. Usually as a ride goes on it gets worse. I'm really just at a loss at this point. MRP swears there is nothing internally wrong and that it's a set up issue. Fine, that may be true, but there's no way I would have considered dropping 30psi below their recommendation and considered that to be "normal".
> 
> I'm getting close to wanting to sell it but I really like MRP as a company and I don't really want to go through all that. I want this to work. I just can't figure it out.


I didn't see anything about rebound? That's my first thought. Your rebound is too slow. Your fork is packing and it's causing your hands to fatigue and you're interpreting that as a change in performance. Where is your rebound set?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> My coil feels a wee bit harsh after coming back from the Alps. I popped the preload and it feels like the shrink wrap on the coil is folding into the inside of the spring a bit. Is that normal?
> 
> I've had the fork apart a fair bit swapping springs, so can't be bothered to pull it apart right now!
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


Normal, I dunno. I haven't seem it go inside the spring, but I suppose that could happen, especially with a lot of swapping.

I bet you just need a bath oil refresh though - I assume you rode a lot in the Alps?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So I Installed my new 29 lowers on my ribbon. As I feared it is sticky. I used an abundance of rock n roll grease and had my rings soaking for weeks in biotech stanchion lube.

What can I do? The mechanic I bought it from originally said he had to resize the bushes. It has been amazing and supple for me till now. I can't go to this.

I know my stanchion are slightly different sizes because when I flipped the original lowers around backwards they were sticky.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm sorry you're having problems, I'll see if I can help.


Thanks for the reply Noah. Appreciate it.



> Is the change you're noticing observed while riding, or is it the case that if you stop, it's hard to initiate travel? Like, does it feel one way cycling through the stroke at the beginning of a ride vs. after?


I would say it stays stiff for a few hours. Long enough that the commercial says I should see a doctor. 



> Not sure how this could physically happen. Generally when air moves from one chamber to another, it doesn't go back! But I'm not a scientist.


I'm just relaying what was told to me by the person at MRP. The person at the shop (who's listed on MRP's website as a service center) said the same thing you did.



> That's typical if fork comes back twice, we throw everything at it. Sounds like a new stachion and air spring assembly.
> 
> 68psi for a 140mm fork and a guy your size sounds low to me, but it's all preference in the end. Equal negative pressure is pretty rare setup though, I always do a little more. Your fork will begin to compress as you approach and pass equal pressure, but that's the top-out bumper relaxing, not loss of travel.


The way he had me set it up was the way he sets his up. He said he's been all through those forks inside and out, part of the reason he's listed on the MRP site, I'm sure, and it was drastically different than anything listed in the how-to's. I don't want to get too into specifics to keep from muddying the waters for other readers of this thread. I'd be happy to off the record.



> I didn't see anything about rebound? That's my first thought. Your rebound is too slow. Your fork is packing and it's causing your hands to fatigue and you're interpreting that as a change in performance. Where is your rebound set?


From fully clockwise I have mine set to 10 clicks. We definitely considered rebound. I considered that it was riding too low in the travel and thus in the mid-stroke causing the rough feeling as well.

The person at MRP also said it was likely a set up issue, but with how drastically far away from the suggested settings I ended up, I'm having a hard time blaming myself for that, if that is the case.

Like I said, I really want this to work. I like supporting a smaller company with great customer service.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Anyone looking to get rid of an x-soft (white) spring from their Ribbon?



And, for something completely different...

Where are folks landing with regards to recommended coil weight (color) ? People finding the charts stiff, soft, or just right? I know traditionally RockShox Boxxer coil charts run stiff.

Reason I ask is at my riding weight (175-80#) and 150mm travel I'm on the firm end of the medium coil. I'm thinking about trying the soft coil but bumping the travel up to 160. While the medium coil feels perfect when blasting through the chunk at high speed (very supportive) its a hair to firm on the slow to medium speed stuff - stuff that's off camber, rooty, slick,... where I need a bit more compliance instead of deflecting off things.

Thoughts?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Miker J said:


> Anyone looking to get rid of an x-soft (white) spring from their Ribbon?


Yes but I have removed the shrink wrap. I'll let it go for $20 plus shipping PayPal fees.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Do I e narrowed it down to the upper drive side bushing. Now they are all tighter then my 27.5 bushings.

But the upper drive side is especially sticky. 

Is it a break in thing?


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Miker J said:


> Where are folks landing with regards to recommended coil weight (color) ? People finding the charts stiff, soft, or just right? I know traditionally RockShox Boxxer coil charts run stiff.
> 
> Reason I ask is at my riding weight (175-80#) and 150mm travel I'm on the firm end of the medium coil. I'm thinking about trying the soft coil but bumping the travel up to 160. While the medium coil feels perfect when blasting through the chunk at high speed (very supportive) its a hair to firm on the slow to medium speed stuff - stuff that's off camber, rooty, slick,... where I need a bit more compliance instead of deflecting off things.


160 mm. Me: 175 lbs and - no point in false modesty - I'm fast. Surprisingly, the soft spring is plenty. With so much damper support, I find the air and coil charts firm for my taste.

The only time it lacks support is on slow, steep trails with abrupt transitions at the end of roll-downs - i.e. the downfall of any fork that relies on more damper and less spring. Maxed out Ramp Control and several clicks of low-speed compression do a decent job of compensating for the soft spring on terrain like that. My favourite trails around here are fast and rough - tire eating, death-grip rodeos! The Ribbon doesn't give up its travel easily on this terrain, yet it doesn't feel overly harsh. That's the terrain on which it shines.

My suggestion for you is to go to a softer spring. This should give you the compliance you need at lower speeds, while the damper will still do most of the work at higher speeds. Add Ramp Control for an extra measure of insurance for big hits and hard landings.

That said, I think it would be better with a lower viscosity oil in the damper, which may make the Medium spring the better choice.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

R-M-R said:


> 160 mm. Me: 175 lbs and - no point in false modesty - I'm fast. Surprisingly, the soft spring is plenty. With so much damper support, I find the air and coil charts firm for my taste.
> 
> The only time it lacks support is on slow, steep trails with abrupt transitions at the end of roll-downs - i.e. the downfall of any fork that relies on more damper and less spring. Maxed out Ramp Control and several clicks of low-speed compression do a decent job of compensating for the soft spring on terrain like that. My favourite trails around here are fast and rough - tire eating, death-grip rodeos! The Ribbon doesn't give up its travel easily on this terrain, yet it doesn't feel overly harsh. That's the terrain on which it shines.
> 
> ...


Super interesting post.

I'm #170 fully kitted up. I love the soft spring, but find it lacks support for my DH and Enduro trails here. Most of the riding here is very steep, very rooty and big transitions into catch berms.

The medium spring keeps the dynamic ride height well in these conditions, but it's the comfort level of an air fork, rather than the supple coil.

I wonder if swapping to a lighter weight damper oil would make a difference.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Normal, I dunno. I haven't seem it go inside the spring, but I suppose that could happen, especially with a lot of swapping.
> 
> I bet you just need a bath oil refresh though - I assume you rode a lot in the Alps?


Yep, I think that was it. I changed the bath oil and it made a noticeable difference.

How often should I be changing the bath oil?

It was probably 25ish hours of riding.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

kerpoise said:


> Super interesting post.
> 
> I'm #170 fully kitted up. I love the soft spring, but find it lacks support for my DH and Enduro trails here. Most of the riding here is very steep, very rooty and big transitions into catch berms.
> 
> ...


Steep terrain puts more weight on the front end. Not necessarily higher maximum forces, but higher average force. A stiffer spring and lighter high-speed compression damping would suit your trails. Add low-speed compression damping for support into transitions and catch berms; back it off if the roots become too harsh.

I'm more into moderate grades and WFO speeds, which are better suited to the support coming via a higher ratio of damper force to spring force - hence the Soft spring. I may still want to try thinner oil for less high-speed compression damping, since my favourite trails can produce high shaft speeds; if this isn't enough support, I can rely more heavily on the Ramp Control. Unsure if this will be better, but keen to experiment.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Miker J said:


> Where are folks landing with regards to recommended coil weight (color) ? People finding the charts stiff, soft, or just right? I know traditionally RockShox Boxxer coil charts run stiff.
> 
> Reason I ask is at my riding weight (175-80#) and 150mm travel I'm on the firm end of the medium coil. I'm thinking about trying the soft coil but bumping the travel up to 160. While the medium coil feels perfect when blasting through the chunk at high speed (very supportive) its a hair to firm on the slow to medium speed stuff - stuff that's off camber, rooty, slick,... where I need a bit more compliance instead of deflecting off things.
> 
> Thoughts?












I'm ~190lbs ready to ride with a 160mm Ribbon Coil on a medium spring with zero preload. The medium spring is what the chart suggests. It's definitely on the firmer/supportive side. I do have a soft spring here I thought about throwing in to see how that feels. I am running zero LSC, zero ramp control and zero preload so I figured soft might work with some of those adjustments dialled in. And even if I find the soft spring too soft it's good to get a feel for the options.

I do enjoy the coil suspension on my Smash, but having to swap springs is a PITA. OTOH once you get it set you never have to mess with it so there is that.

One thing to consider on the MRP spring chart is they can't account for how much weight you put on the front of the bike. Depending on the bike design and how you ride you can vary the amount of weight the front of the bike sees a huge amount so I'd only take what's in that chart as a general suggestion. Two riders of exactly the same weight with the same travel Ribbon Coil could need different springs and that would be perfectly normal.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

kerpoise said:


> Yep, I think that was it. I changed the bath oil and it made a noticeable difference.
> 
> How often should I be changing the bath oil?


Manual says 30-50hrs. Obviously riding conditions and the condition of your seals will have a big impact at which end of the scale you are going to be at.

One tip is to turn your bike upside down every so often. It lets the bath oil get to the foam rings and lube up the bushings.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

vikb said:


> Manual says 30-50hrs. Obviously riding conditions and the condition of your seals will have a big impact at which end of the scale you are going to be at.
> 
> One tip is to turn your bike upside down every so often. It lets the bath oil get to the foam rings and lube up the bushings.


Yeah, I do that at the top of every descent 

Alps riding is pretty harsh on bikes, so not surprised an oil change made a difference.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

sternomac said:


> From fully clockwise I have mine set to 10 clicks. We definitely considered rebound. I considered that it was riding too low in the travel and thus in the mid-stroke causing the rough feeling as well.
> 
> The person at MRP also said it was likely a set up issue, but with how drastically far away from the suggested settings I ended up, I'm having a hard time blaming myself for that, if that is the case.
> 
> Like I said, I really want this to work. I like supporting a smaller company with great customer service.


As for suggested setups, they're just starting points. They do represent a median or average setup combo for most riders, but there are a lot of factors that influence each tuning parameter.

My final suggestion is to try before we look at other options is to do the following:

Reset your pressures. Dump the negative fully, then set your positive pressure to 75 and your negative to 84-85. Use a digital pump to do this, accuracy is key. You reported 25% sag at this positive pressure setting, so at least I know it's workable. If you're getting that much sag on level ground and seated, I'd consider pumping up those pressures a little more.

Set Ramp and Compression at 0. Fully counterclockwise on both.

If you're at 10 from closed on rebound, take that out to at least 14. That might feel fast, but it's still my best guess at a culprit here. You said the fork was particularly underperforming on fast, rooty bits before, so this make me think it's not keeping up.

Go ride. And go ride again. Take a couple rides to get used to this feeling before making any changes or drawing any conclusions.

Report back. We'll go from there.

Namaste


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

vikb said:


> I'm ~190lbs ready to ride with a 160mm Ribbon Coil on a medium spring with zero preload. The medium spring is what the chart suggests. It's definitely on the firmer/supportive side. I do have a soft spring here I thought about throwing in to see how that feels. I am running zero LSC, zero ramp control and zero preload so I figured soft might work with some of those adjustments dialled in. And even if I find the soft spring too soft it's good to get a feel for the options.
> 
> I do enjoy the coil suspension on my Smash, but having to swap springs is a PITA. OTOH once you get it set you never have to mess with it so there is that.
> 
> One thing to consider on the MRP spring chart is they can't account for how much weight you put on the front of the bike. Depending on the bike design and how you ride you can vary the amount of weight the front of the bike sees a huge amount so I'd only take what's in that chart as a general suggestion. Two riders of exactly the same weight with the same travel Ribbon Coil could need different springs and that would be perfectly normal.


 No way you want a soft spring. I'm on one at 145# and if I weighed 10# more I'd start looking at a medium.

It's been said a few times here but pay attention to the first 3/4 of travel. Is it supportive does it dive excessively is it supple is it eating up high frequency hits.

The last 1/4 is for o **** moments.

But no matter the spring weight it should be very soft off the top.
If it's not you have an issue somewhere.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> As for suggested setups, they're just starting points. They do represent a median or average setup combo for most riders, but there are a lot of factors that influence each tuning parameter.
> 
> My final suggestion is to try before we look at other options is to do the following:
> 
> ...


Thanks Noah. I'll set it there and see what happens. I'll get 3 rides in before I circle back. Appreciate you taking the time.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Miker J said:


> Reason I ask is at my riding weight (175-80#) and 150mm travel I'm on the firm end of the medium coil. I'm thinking about trying the soft coil but bumping the travel up to 160. While the medium coil feels perfect when blasting through the chunk at high speed (very supportive) its a hair to firm on the slow to medium speed stuff - stuff that's off camber, rooty, slick,... where I need a bit more compliance instead of deflecting off things.
> 
> Thoughts?


I'm about the same weight. I've only ever been on soft or medium springs and the only travels I've not ridden extensively are 150, 155, and 160mm.

29" 140mm Medium. Really good all around, but could elicit hard bottom-outs on huge hits. Probably would have started trying a firm spring if I kept riding that fork/bike, but I moved on.

27.5" 170mm Soft. Pretty much same as above. Don't think I ever rode this setup at bike parts though, where it might have been too soft. I had moved onto a Bartlett at that point in the season last year.

29" 170mm, Medium. Yeah a 29" 170mm is not something we currently make, but I've been testing one for awhile. It'll be a "thing" eventually. I started with soft and it was good and plush for most SW trail riding. As I got to racing it, bottom out became an issue, so I moved to a medium. That was great for bike park season, but now that that is ending and I'm doing more trail riding, its a touch firm (I'm wide open on compression). However, soft would be a step too far, so I'm going to try some other tuning avenues on the damper side. As-is the fork gets a 9.5/10, but I want it to be a 10! I fully recognize that what I'm looking for is a tall order, but I'm looking for those marginal gains in my quest to KOM The Whole Enchilada.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> No way you want a soft spring. I'm on one at 145# and if I weighed 10# more I'd start looking at a medium.


What travel is your fork set at?


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

vikb said:


> What travel is your fork set at?


 I've had it at both 140 and 160. Now I'm at 155mm.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> [ ... ] I'm wide open on compression [ ... ] I'm going to try some other tuning avenues on the damper side [ ... ]


Noah,

You ride hard - I've seen the videos! - yet your LSC is wide open and I'm guessing you're considering lighter compression damping. Most people don't ride as hard as you. This says to me the Ribbon's compression damping is excessive, particularly for the longer-travel variants.

I've always felt the Ribbon needs a lighter compression damping tune or thinner fluid for most, if not all, travel variants.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

R-M-R said:


> Noah,
> 
> You ride hard - I've seen the videos! - yet your LSC is wide open and I'm guessing you're considering lighter compression damping. Most people don't ride as hard as you. This says to me the Ribbon's compression damping is excessive, particularly for the longer-travel variants.
> 
> I've always felt the Ribbon needs a lighter compression damping tune or thinner fluid for most, if not all, travel variants.


 Not very educated on the poppet valve and spring. But could mrp possibly have several different springs available to tune the ribbon?

I think something like this would sell and really address the only shortcoming of the Ribbon imo.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

R-M-R said:


> Noah,
> 
> You ride hard - I've seen the videos! - yet your LSC is wide open and I'm guessing you're considering lighter compression damping. Most people don't ride as hard as you. This says to me the Ribbon's compression damping is excessive, particularly for the longer-travel variants.
> 
> I've always felt the Ribbon needs a lighter compression damping tune or thinner fluid for most, if not all, travel variants.


Well, I'm not always wide-open, but currently I am with this spring and riding conditions. I've used some compression damping in particular circumstances in the recent past. But, I agree, there is room to explore a lighter compression tune particularly in the longer-travel variants of this fork. I'm looking at that, as well as speeding up rebound as I think (especially on the coil models) there is more range than needed.

I'd be curious to know what specific oil anyone has been using in the damper and what their impressions were.


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> ....But no matter the spring weight it should be very soft off the top.
> If it's not you have an issue somewhere.


I've had some time on some other forks after being on the the Ribbon coil for some time. The Ribbon, like I said above, still rules in the high speed chop. But it does not feel "very soft off the top". Not harsh, but not very soft. I'm at the correct sag on the medium spring. Even a bit much if anything. Thought maybe I'm too far into the travel so increased the preload for my last big ride. Didn't change the feel much. Overall it does seem that I'm using the appropriate amount of travel during my riding. The O-ring lands where it seems it should on medium or bigger hits.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> I'm about the same weight. I've only ever been on soft or medium springs and the only travels I've not ridden extensively are 150, 155, and 160mm.
> 
> 29" 140mm Medium. Really good all around, but could elicit hard bottom-outs on huge hits. Probably would have started trying a firm spring if I kept riding that fork/bike, but I moved on.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty much same as you, I'd actually like a soft/medium spring!

Soft feels absolutely amazing, but it just bottoms too easily. Medium has great dynamic ride height, but I don't get full travel, and its not that supple - it's probably as good as a fox 36 grip2. But I bought coil, dammit!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Miker J said:


> I've had some time on some other forks after being on the the Ribbon coil for some time. The Ribbon, like I said above, still rules in the high speed chop. But it does not feel "very soft off the top". Not harsh, but not very soft. I'm at the correct sag on the medium spring. Even a bit much if anything. Thought maybe I'm too far into the travel so increased the preload for my last big ride. Didn't change the feel much. Overall it does seem that I'm using the appropriate amount of travel during my riding. The O-ring lands where it seems it should on medium or bigger hits.


 Ya I'm pretty sure my fork was special. Like I've said a mechanic owned it previously and said he resized the bushings. You could feel the play when you rocked it back and forth but it didn't effect riding and after a service there was what felt like zero breakaway force needed

Now with new lowers and bushes there is no play and needs much more breakaway force to get it moving.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> Well, I'm not always wide-open, but currently I am with this spring and riding conditions. I've used some compression damping in particular circumstances in the recent past. But, I agree, there is room to explore a lighter compression tune particularly in the longer-travel variants of this fork. I'm looking at that, as well as speeding up rebound as I think (especially on the coil models) there is more range than needed.
> 
> I'd be curious to know what specific oil anyone has been using in the damper and what their impressions were.


My damper is due for a service. Maybe I'll send it to your folks this winter; you can put in lighter oil or try some different valves and I'll let you know!

Can you please help me understand the compression damper of the Ribbon? Is it a damper plate / piston on the HSC circuit? Seems unlikely it could be a simple orifice ... I take it there's a poppet valve that can open to relieve pressure - almost like having two stages of LSC? If so, can you please describe the mechanical configuration of the "primary" HSC and the "secondary" HSC and whether the piston(s) are digressive, linear, progressive?

This seems to be the least-understood aspect of the Ribbon - and perhaps I can see why, if the damper is considerably simpler than the competition. Still, it does seem to work fairly well.

If it's correct the compression damper is a plate / piston / orifice with a poppet, this might explain why I find the fork fine at low speeds, the harshest on the market at moderate speeds, and good at high speeds. "Blue" trails, slow speeds, and / or riding with intermediate riders at their pace feels awful on the Ribbon; absolutely pinning it feels great and I've been struggling to understand why.


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Not very educated on the poppet valve and spring. But could mrp possibly have several different springs available to tune the ribbon?
> 
> .....


there is a very interesting talk about the HSC Valve in the german bike Forum.

https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/mrp-ribbon-coil.856195/page-14

hope you can translate it to english...

in short:
a guy(THANKS AGAIN!) changed the HScompression valve spring to a slightly shorter(-0.5mm)with nearly the same spring rate(?)

I switched the original Oil to Danico Bio 3WT with a slightly to nearly no effect in this case. The Conclusion: Oil seems to have low effect... the(preloaded)spring does not care about the oil, pressure is pressure.... the only way is to change the preload/springrate....

maybe i am wrong... but it sounds concluded...

what do you think about?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> You could feel the play when you rocked it back and forth but it didn't effect riding and after a service there was what felt like zero breakaway force needed


My Ribbon Coil starts moving super easily. I do keep the lowers well lubricated and run LSC and preload open. After the initial motion it gets very supportive.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

zweigelt said:


> there is a very interesting talk about the HSC Valve in the german bike Forum.
> 
> https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/mrp-ribbon-coil.856195/page-14
> 
> ...


Google Translate could only do so much, but I think I get the general idea.

If I'm coming to the correct conclusion that the Ribbon is overdamped until the pressure relief valve opens, it will open only when the necessary pressure is reached. With lighter oil, greater shaft speed will be required for this to happen - if it happens at all. The ideal solution would be thinner oil to reduce the damping force prior to the valve opening _and_ less spring force (preload distance or spring rate) to maintain a similar shaft speed at which the valve opens.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

vikb said:


> My Ribbon Coil starts moving super easily. I do keep the lowers well lubricated and run LSC and preload open. After the initial motion it gets very supportive.


 Well I did something to the bushings that prob wouldn't be recommended and they are moving much more freely now.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

R-M-R said:


> Google Translate could only do so much, but I think I get the general idea.
> 
> If I'm coming to the correct conclusion that the Ribbon is overdamped until the pressure relief valve opens, it will open only when the necessary pressure is reached. With lighter oil, greater shaft speed will be required for this to happen - if it happens at all. The ideal solution would be thinner oil to reduce the damping force prior to the valve opening _and_ less spring force (preload distance or spring rate) to maintain a similar shaft speed at which the valve opens.


 So I need to find a source for the spring. This is definitely happening.
I don't understand why mrp can't offer something like this to make it easier for us.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I need to find a source for the spring. This is definitely happening.
> I don't understand why mrp can't offer something like this to make it easier for us.


The German forum thread referenced above discussing sourcing the spring. It's nicer than the stock spring, too.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

R-M-R said:


> The German forum thread referenced above discussing sourcing the spring. It's nicer than the stock spring, too.


 Ya I'm m on it already posted looking for a source and the posters weight compared mine.

I'll assume I'm going to have to order slightly heavier oil then my danico 3wt.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> Ya I'm m on it already posted looking for a source and the posters weight compared mine.
> 
> I'll assume I'm going to have to order slightly heavier oil then my danico 3wt.


I'm really looking forward to your results. Thanks for taking this on and please update as you go!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Np will do.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

R-M-R said:


> I'm really looking forward to your results. Thanks for taking this on and please update as you go!


 From his post I can see he went to febrotech website. I went there and this is the closest I came to his measurements of https://www.febrotec.de/content.php?seite=shop/produkte.php&hauptrubrik=2&details=3462

Not sure if that's what he got he said wire thickness 1.3

Also the picture of the stock spring shows it rounded at the ends and it could be ground/sanded down to shorten it.

Which the poster says could make the hsc open sooner..maybe.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

I think the poster meant the spring he found had ground (flat) ends, rather than the unfinished ends of the stock spring. The shorter spring will have less preload due to being compressed less, which should allow the valve to open with less force.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

R-M-R said:


> I think the poster meant the spring he found had ground (flat) ends, rather than the unfinished ends of the stock spring. The shorter spring will have less preload due to being compressed less, which should allow the valve to open with less force.


 He linked the spring he bought but it comes out to a lolable 109 euro shipped to me.

But I found this https://springs.mrspring.com/item/compression-springs/compression-springs-3/mcm04201-ss

I am slightly lighter then him so I think I'll go with a slightly thinner wire. 0.043 vs 0.048.

Tell me if you see anything off with my spring selection.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Please don't make me translate the German thread again ... :nonod:

All I can suggest is either a shorter or thinner spring - maybe both is too much of a reduction in blow-off force? - and less viscous oil. Exactly how much shorter, thinner, and less viscous is difficult to estimate.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I spoke with Radtotal from the German forum. He was very nice and very helpful.

He said the spring I chose is nice and that I might go a touch thinner. I am going to order the one and then one thinner and one thicker.
Obviously my patience for bleeding over and over again will limit my experiments.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I spoke with Radtotal from the German forum. He was very nice and very helpful.
> 
> He said the spring I chose is nice and that I might go a touch thinner. I am going to order the one and then one thinner and one thicker.
> Obviously my patience for bleeding over and over again will limit my experiments.


We salute your efforts. Godspeed.


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

For USA:

i found this Shop with, i think fitting springs.

Order compression springs online - sodemann-springs.us

I ordered a Selection of 3 Springs from the German Facility.

C04800380500M	
C04800420500M
C04800450500M


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Does everyone have a slight knock when lifting their coil ribbon up, and then back down initiating travel? 

It feels like a top-out knock, but in reverse. 

Makes me feel like I need to bleed the damper, but I'm not sure if it's just normal on the Ribbon.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

kerpoise said:


> Does everyone have a slight knock when lifting their coil ribbon up, and then back down initiating travel?
> 
> It feels like a top-out knock, but in reverse.
> 
> ...


Same here, but after 3-4 times it becomes smooth, tells me I should bleed the damper..?

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

romulin said:


> Same here, but after 3-4 times it becomes smooth, tells me I should bleed the damper..?
> 
> Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


Yep, same for me too. I've probably 30-40 hours of riding on mine, so it's way off the 200 recommended for the damper bleed though.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

kerpoise said:


> Does everyone have a slight knock when lifting their coil ribbon up, and then back down initiating travel?
> 
> It feels like a top-out knock, but in reverse.
> 
> Makes me feel like I need to bleed the damper, but I'm not sure if it's just normal on the Ribbon.


Is there any preload on the spring? Sounds like there could be a gap between the spring and the preload adjuster.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

R-M-R said:


> Is there any preload on the spring? Sounds like there could be a gap between the spring and the preload adjuster.


The spring is under compression even without any pre-load, isn't it?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Well my ribbon is fine. Got the 29 lowers on they were sticky at first.
I took some 2k wet/dry sandpaper and went around the upper bushes lightly a few times. Couldn't really reach the lower ones.

Anyway reinstall and it's good 90% as supple as my 27.5 lowers. But no play when I squeeze brakes and rock it.

Now on to the spring mod.


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## R-M-R (Jan 26, 2009)

kerpoise said:


> The spring is under compression even without any pre-load, isn't it?


Should be. This sure sounds like the symptoms of a loose spring, though, and it's quick and easy to test.


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

I serviced my damper earlier this week and rode it twice. there was a definite improvement in performance and feel, specially on steep stuff, it's not as harsh anymore. seems like it really needed it.

I'm also running LSC wide open, no preload, rebound probably 60% and ramp control 60-70% 

I still feel like a little overdamped. I used maxima 5wt fork oil


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

pedrosalas7 said:


> I serviced my damper earlier this week and rode it twice. there was a definite improvement in performance and feel, specially on steep stuff, it's not as harsh anymore. seems like it really needed it.
> 
> I'm also running LSC wide open, no preload, rebound probably 60% and ramp control 60-70%
> 
> I still feel like a little overdamped. I used maxima 5wt fork oil


How long have you ridden the fork before servicing it?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## pedrosalas7 (Apr 2, 2015)

kerpoise said:


> How long have you ridden the fork before servicing it?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


not sure, but I would guess more than 200 miles I built that bike last november and this is the first time I serviced the damper. I serviced the lowers several times before that.


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

Just sent mrp an email. 
I’ve got a ribbon air 29 140. Im 230 lbs and just did a bath oil change to try to solve this. I’m a little confused. I can’t get this thing to feel right. I’ve been all over the place as far as pressures. From 110+120- to reccomenswd. And down to 85+ 95 - I’ve had pressures balanced had them unbalanced. Zero on ramp control and zero on compression And 7 rebound. . The fork feels like a bucking bronco. The opposite of planted I went with mrp because of the Colorado based company, and honestly wanted something other than fox or rockshox. Should I just have bitten the bullet and gotten a pike or 36???


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

PM'd. 

how cold is it where you are currently?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Hbnel5on said:


> Just sent mrp an email.
> I've got a ribbon air 29 140. Im 230 lbs and just did a bath oil change to try to solve this. I'm a little confused. I can't get this thing to feel right. I've been all over the place as far as pressures. From 110+120- to reccomenswd. And down to 85+ 95 - I've had pressures balanced had them unbalanced. Zero on ramp control and zero on compression And 7 rebound. . The fork feels like a bucking bronco. The opposite of planted I went with mrp because of the Colorado based company, and honestly wanted something other than fox or rockshox. Should I just have bitten the bullet and gotten a pike or 36???


Sorry to hear that. While we like the Broncos, we don't want our forks to act like them.

Do you have 7 clicks of rebound from open (counterclockwise) or closed (max, clockwise)?

"Bucking" is typically associated with a overly fast rebound stroke. That's usually caused by rebound set too fast or no (or low) negative air spring pressure.

"Planted" is typically associated with a "damped" ride - and since you're not using any compression damping or Ramp Control, I guess I'm not surprised?

Help me out, what more specifically does it feel like and what are you wanting?

We should probably start with air pressure, where does 104+ 113- put in in terms of sag?


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> If you're at 10 from closed on rebound, take that out to at least 14. That might feel fast, but it's still my best guess at a culprit here. You said the fork was particularly underperforming on fast, rooty bits before, so this make me think it's not keeping up.
> 
> Namaste


This is exactly what I did on my Ribbon coil and it worked a treat. Much smoother.


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> Sorry to hear that. While we like the Broncos, we don't want our forks to act like them.
> 
> Do you have 7 clicks of rebound from open (counterclockwise) or closed (max, clockwise)?
> 
> ...


Hey Noah, I addressed the email to you. Yes the rebound is clockwise then back 7 clicks. 
On small bump slow and a mid size hit at a fairly good clip the fork feels very harsh almost like it's locked out, hence the bucking type feeling. I haven't added any ramp except for when it's a little lower in pressure. And I haven't added any compression because I'm trying to keep It more supple.

Not sure of 103 exactly but 100+ 110- gets me a hair over 30mm so I would think 103 would be about right for sag

I want the fork to be very supple off the top and absorb small bumps like melted butter. Then I can figure out with compression and ramp for a supportive feel.

This kind of customer service is exactly why I went with mrp in the first place. Keep it up guys


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Mine felt like that so I took some air out of my tires and slowed the rebound down. Helped alot but the high speed hits are a different story.

Also air tends to rebound more violently then the coil does. So it needs more damping.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Noah, can you address if Hbnel5on is having the same issue that others have possibly identified as being associated with the damper spring? I had been thinking of changing to a lighter damper oil to better deal with big mid-speed hits that my Ribbon air seems buck over when I noticed the spring issue come up on the thread. According to posts earlier in the thread, lighter oil would not do much to help reduce the HSC floor without modifying the spring. On that, I have noticed your (MRP's) silence. Is this how the fork HSC functions, the spring resists the high-speed circuit opening until sufficient pressure is developed?


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

polarflux said:


> Noah, can you address if Hbnel5on is having the same issue that others have possibly identified as being associated with the damper spring? I had been thinking of changing to a lighter damper oil to better deal with big mid-speed hits that my Ribbon air seems buck over when I noticed the spring issue come up on the thread. According to posts earlier in the thread, lighter oil would not do much to help reduce the HSC floor without modifying the spring. On that, I have noticed your (MRP's) silence. Is this how the fork HSC functions, the spring resists the high-speed circuit opening until sufficient pressure is developed?


let it be known that I was experiencing extreme stiction before the bath oil change. and that part has at least came to a close.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

polarflux said:


> Noah, can you address if Hbnel5on is having the same issue that others have possibly identified as being associated with the damper spring? I had been thinking of changing to a lighter damper oil to better deal with big mid-speed hits that my Ribbon air seems buck over when I noticed the spring issue come up on the thread. According to posts earlier in the thread, lighter oil would not do much to help reduce the HSC floor without modifying the spring. On that, I have noticed your (MRP's) silence. Is this how the fork HSC functions, the spring resists the high-speed circuit opening until sufficient pressure is developed?


Definitely not a suspension expert by any means but I had similar issues with my Ribbon, despite (coil) spring changes and many adjustments with ramp/LSC/HSC. Slow speed tech/square edge and higher speed rough riding/hits were not good, despite running a lot of HSC. Craig @ Avalanche backed up my impressions with his own thoughts on the fork.

One thing to remember, however, is that adding HSC will not inhibit the small bump and can actually help with that as some "small bump" hits are actually HSC hits. Sort of counter intuitive but has been explained in other posts. Also, running compression fully out can have an adverse affect on some forks.

Ultimately I dumped by Ribbon for this reason. I know a lot of people love it and think it's a "advanced rider's" fork but I'm not the slowest rider and never got on with it.


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

Kaparzo said:


> Definitely not a suspension expert by any means but I had similar issues with my Ribbon, despite (coil) spring changes and many adjustments with ramp/LSC/HSC. Slow speed tech/square edge and higher speed rough riding/hits were not good, despite running a lot of HSC. Craig @ Avalanche backed up my impressions with his own thoughts on the fork.
> 
> One thing to remember, however, is that adding HSC will not inhibit the small bump and can actually help with that as some "small bump" hits are actually HSC hits. Sort of counter intuitive but has been explained in other posts. Also, running compression fully out can have an adverse affect on some forks.
> 
> Ultimately I dumped by Ribbon for this reason. I know a lot of people love it and think it's a "advanced rider's" fork but I'm not the slowest rider and never got on with it.


how did you inhibit HSC? I thought the ribbon only had LSC. I have however noticed that the ribbon feels at its absolute best when you are at the limits. almost like the more effort I put into thrashing the better it feels where I kind of prefer to ride smooth and fluid fast instead of all out pounding.


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## Kaparzo (Dec 21, 2003)

Hbnel5on said:


> how did you inhibit HSC? I thought the ribbon only had LSC. I have however noticed that the ribbon feels at its absolute best when you are at the limits. almost like the more effort I put into thrashing the better it feels where I kind of prefer to ride smooth and fluid fast instead of all out pounding.


Ooops, you're right. Getting confused with my MRP Hazzard, which had very similar characteristics. So I guess also curious if the HSC could have/be adjusted to better manage what was my and is your concern.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Hbnel5on said:


> Hey Noah, I addressed the email to you. Yes the rebound is clockwise then back 7 clicks.
> On small bump slow and a mid size hit at a fairly good clip the fork feels very harsh almost like it's locked out, hence the bucking type feeling. I haven't added any ramp except for when it's a little lower in pressure. And I haven't added any compression because I'm trying to keep It more supple.
> 
> Not sure of 103 exactly but 100+ 110- gets me a hair over 30mm so I would think 103 would be about right for sag
> ...


I didn't get that e-mail, but I let the service and support know I was working with you on MTBR.

What's your sag setting process like? Are you setting it on level ground and seated? In an attack position? Brakes on or off?

30mm for a 140mm fork is 21% sag - definitely in the generally accepted range. But if you're getting 21% just seated, without much weight on the front and without bouncing around a little before resetting the o-ring to break any initial stiction, it could too soft and divy - especially when you're descending. That could be putting into the progressive part of the spring curve and giving you the feeling you describe.

I'd suggest going up in pressure and back a little on rebound. No Ramp, no compression. Maybe try 105+/115- and 10 clicks from closed on rebound. Go ride that and make the determination of it's same, better, or worse. If it's same (or just not good), then make a change only to the pressures. You can decide if this is 5psi or less (in both positive and negative), your call - either will tell you something after your next ride.

Are you using a digital shock pump? Definitely helpful with our spring system.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

polarflux said:


> Noah, can you address if Hbnel5on is having the same issue that others have possibly identified as being associated with the damper spring? I had been thinking of changing to a lighter damper oil to better deal with big mid-speed hits that my Ribbon air seems buck over when I noticed the spring issue come up on the thread. According to posts earlier in the thread, lighter oil would not do much to help reduce the HSC floor without modifying the spring. On that, I have noticed your (MRP's) silence. Is this how the fork HSC functions, the spring resists the high-speed circuit opening until sufficient pressure is developed?


As of right now, I JUST started talking to Hbnel5on. I really can't speculate if he's having an "issue" or just needs help setting his fork up.

As for my "silence" on the tuning being discussed concurrently in this thread, as I mentioned, I'm doing some testing on my own with the damper. At MRP we always are. Testing takes a while.

Also, I'm not an engineer. I have a lot experience riding this fork and setting people up on it, and I understand how it works (and suspension theory in general), but getting into how I think people should modify our products is not a rabbit hole I want to go down. If someone can look at the damper, understand how it works, and then do some experimentation down different tuning paths in order to make it work better for THEM, that's great and I'm all for it.

If you feel comfortable changing the oil in your damper, buy all means, try lighter weight oil.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> As of right now, I JUST started talking to Hbnel5on. I really can't speculate if he's having an "issue" or just needs help setting his fork up.
> 
> As for my "silence" on the tuning being discussed concurrently in this thread, as I mentioned, I'm doing some testing on my own with the damper. At MRP we always are. Testing takes a while.
> 
> ...


 So why not mrp test some damper springs and decide what riders and rider weight they are good for? Pretty sure you have the means and engineers to do it.

This is a known issue. Most people who aren't satisfied with their ribbon not counting setup issues its almost always the spiking hsc.

What would be really cool is a revised Ribbon damper that would allow you to drop different springs into the top fairly easily like some Manu are doing with shim stacks (Formula).

I'm going to do it regardless. The problem ATM is every supplier want to sell you a minimum order. Although individual springs are $5-7 you aren't getting out less then $35-100.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So why not mrp test some damper springs and decide what riders and rider weight they are good for? Pretty sure you have the means and engineers to do it.


He said that MRP *is doing testing*. He's just not going to discuss the details until they have something specific to share. That's the same approach any company is going to take. You aren't going to get a blow by blow account of their internal R&D process.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

vikb said:


> He said that MRP *is doing testing*. He's just not going to discuss the details until they have something specific to share. That's the same approach any company is going to take. You aren't going to get a blow by blow account of their internal R&D process.


 No he said HE is doing some testing on his own.

Reading comprehension is your friend.

And I mean Noah no harm no need to captain save a ho.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> No he said HE is doing some testing on his own.
> 
> Reading comprehension is your friend.





NoahColorado said:


> At MRP *we* always are. Testing takes a while.


It's embarrassing when you get snarky about reading compression and you are the one who is not paying attention. :nono:


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Noah, I was not trying to point a finger at MRP, bad phrasing. I am only wondering if the theory that a lighter spring does help modify the HSC spike. Thanks for giving us the nod that MRP is looking at this issue. It is cool that this forum can be on the fringes of this process. Thanks.


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

NoahColorado said:


> I didn't get that e-mail, but I let the service and support know I was working with you on MTBR.
> 
> What's your sag setting process like? Are you setting it on level ground and seated? In an attack position? Brakes on or off?
> 
> ...


hey Noah, again thanks for your interest. my sag testing always is the same and as follows. I set positive spring, then negative (Both from 0 psi) I then get on the bike with my hips usually leaned up against my work bench. I cycle the fork a few times and where it lands after movement I press the o ring down. carefully get off, measure with a caliper what it comes to.

im not thinking its a damper issue because the first time I ever hopped on the fork I was completely blown away at small bump. it was my first real ride on it and I just kind of set it up. I did not pay attention to the settings because I expected to have to change them. I left it alone until it got sticky, then I changed the travel down to 140 from 150 (bike recommends 140)and changed the bath oil. since then the sticky has went away but I just feel like I can't dial in the air spring. im pretty confident we can get it figured out, just at the end of MY ideas so looking to you for help.

I don't have a digital. but I do have a 150psi fox branded pump that only has hash marks in 5 psi increments. so im able to get a much more accurate reading as opposed to a 350 psi pump.


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## Hbnel5on (Dec 13, 2016)

sag is measured standing but not crouched.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> No he said HE is doing some testing on his own.
> 
> Reading comprehension is your friend.
> 
> And I mean Noah no harm no need to captain save a ho.


Me = we. We're testing different springs, oils, and other things.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

hows that air shock testing going?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> hows that air shock testing going?


Good, been riding it pretty much everyday.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Hbnel5on said:


> Hey Noah, I addressed the email to you. Yes the rebound is clockwise then back 7 clicks.
> On small bump slow and a mid size hit at a fairly good clip the fork feels very harsh almost like it's locked out, hence the bucking type feeling. I haven't added any ramp except for when it's a little lower in pressure. And I haven't added any compression because I'm trying to keep It more supple.
> 
> Not sure of 103 exactly but 100+ 110- gets me a hair over 30mm so I would think 103 would be about right for sag
> ...


Hey, I think I'd had similar symptoms, just have to remember what the setting was.

I think it was too low pressure, fork felt great when pushed by hand, also riding hard and used allot of travel but didn't bottom as I used allot of ramp. Felt harsh just pedaling fireroads.

Try going higher in pressure than recommended even by 10, about 5 r 7 psi more in negative and if it's too stiff test 2 psi less and ride to test. I always have to ride it a little to get the pressures to balance out our so.

Also I found that higher negative pressures need less Rebound damping to make it feel good.

Wish God luck

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

Well, I recently pulled the trigger on a Ribbon Coil for the front end of my Ripley after reading the last half of this thread, appreciating Noah’s ongoing feedback, and reading/watching numerous reviews. This will be my first coil fork purchase since 97 (Marzocchi Z2 that I still have) and I hope it goes just as well (Z2 was a transformative experience at the time).


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

GiddyHitch said:


> Well, I recently pulled the trigger on a Ribbon Coil for the front end of my Ripley after reading the last half of this thread, appreciating Noah's ongoing feedback, and reading/watching numerous reviews. This will be my first coil fork purchase since 97 (Marzocchi Z2 that I still have) and I hope it goes just as well (Z2 was a transformative experience at the time).


Probably depends on what you're coming off of, but yeah - it's good. Really good.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

Quick inquiry about the set screws on the rebound & ramp control knobs... what size are they? And are they torx or just regular allen? My old eyes can't friggin' see that well any more.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

SkaredShtles said:


> Quick inquiry about the set screws on the rebound & ramp control knobs... what size are they? And are they torx or just regular allen? My old eyes can't friggin' see that well any more.


 Allen and they are the smallest in my set. Like 1 or .5mm


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> As for suggested setups, they're just starting points. They do represent a median or average setup combo for most riders, but there are a lot of factors that influence each tuning parameter.
> 
> My final suggestion is to try before we look at other options is to do the following:
> 
> ...


Hey Noah...reporting back after 4 rides.

First ride felt better with the faster rebound. It still felt stiff but stiff right from the go and I wasn't using all the travel. After the second ride, still felt the same. Dumped down 5 psi in negative and positive.

Third ride was nothing of note. It was a pretty short ride, only about 10 miles or so and we were just taking our time.

Fourth ride was yesterday. Did 40 miles of mostly trail and a little road to connect sections. Before I was halfway through I could tell a huge difference. The first hour or so was fine. And then it was back to that feeling of super stiffness. I was hanging on for dear life on the sections working my way back and I basically felt like I had a rigid fork unless I would rock all my weight onto the fork to prove to myself it was still working.

The best way to describe it is the fork just stops absorbing and instead rocks the whole bike over an obstacle. Take a medium sized root and when things are working well the fork will compress and then rebound like normal. When it's not working it just feels like rolling over it without the fork compressing at all. But if I really rock on the fork with all my weight, up and down, I can see it moving. It really is the strangest thing. It's super frustrating because it only happens when I've been riding a while and basically no one believes me that something is wrong because when the fork is rested, everything appears normal.

I'm taking a trip to Kingdom Trails in like 3 weeks and I really want a solution to this before I go on a trip that I've spent money on. I appreciate your willingness to help.

EDIT: ride 5. About 6 miles in it started again. Started the ride feeling ok. By mile 6 it was a completetly different fork. At one point I misjudged a log over and sort of rammed the front tire right into it causing a hard compression. This seemed to "wake" it back up momentarily. Not sure if this helps but I'm just trying to give more information just in case.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

sternomac said:


> Hey Noah...reporting back after 4 rides.
> 
> First ride felt better with the faster rebound. It still felt stiff but stiff right from the go and I wasn't using all the travel. After the second ride, still felt the same. Dumped down 5 psi in negative and positive.
> 
> ...


That does sound like dry foam rings, which during the ride get a bit of a soaking, and then dry out again.

I think I read you did a lowers service recently, I'd be tempted the drop the lowers, top up with 10cc either side, and pop the bike upside down overnight to soak the foam rings.

Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Just a thought, but during your rides are you going or losing significant altitude? If you are, you might try hitting the pressure relief valves to equalize to where you are.


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## ColinL (Feb 9, 2012)

kerpoise said:


> That does sound like dry foam rings, which during the ride get a bit of a soaking, and then dry out again.
> 
> I think I read you did a lowers service recently, I'd be tempted the drop the lowers, top up with 10cc either side, and pop the bike upside down overnight to soak the foam rings.


Respectfully, I disagree. Foam rings actually have little effect on anything and will always be saturated, or not, based on the presence and quantity of bath oil. There is a longstanding belief held by many here on MTBR that if you flip a bike upside down to get the foam rings soaked before a ride the ride quality changes.

It really does not, again assuming you have some bath oil. When a fork has little to no bath oil it will have more stiction.

The next reply about the pressure valves is worth trying if there are significant altitude changes. But it's probably more of a sign that the fork needs serviced. Possibly seals and bath oil alone, but I'd bleed the damper as well. If it still acts up there's something more significant wrong with the damper - assuming it was bled correctly.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

ColinL said:


> Respectfully, I disagree. Foam rings actually have little effect on anything and will always be saturated, or not, based on the presence and quantity of bath oil. There is a longstanding belief held by many here on MTBR that if you flip a bike upside down to get the foam rings soaked before a ride the ride quality changes.
> 
> It really does not, again assuming you have some bath oil. When a fork has little to no bath oil it will have more stiction.
> 
> The next reply about the pressure valves is worth trying if there are significant altitude changes. But it's probably more of a sign that the fork needs serviced. Possibly seals and bath oil alone, but I'd bleed the damper as well. If it still acts up there's something more significant wrong with the damper - assuming it was bled correctly.


My experience definitely differs here.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

sternomac said:


> EDIT: ride 5. About 6 miles in it started again. Started the ride feeling ok. By mile 6 it was a completetly different fork. At one point I misjudged a log over and sort of rammed the front tire right into it causing a hard compression. This seemed to "wake" it back up momentarily. Not sure if this helps but I'm just trying to give more information just in case.


From what you describe it doesn't sound like a tuning or setup issue is at play. Please send me an e-mail with your serial number, fork specs, date and place of purchase, and anything else of note. We'll go from there. E-mail is noah (at) mrpbike.com.

Thanks!


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> From what you describe it doesn't sound like a tuning or setup issue is at play. Please send me an e-mail with your serial number, fork specs, date and place of purchase, and anything else of note. We'll go from there. E-mail is noah (at) mrpbike.com.
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks Noah. Email sent.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

So how is the mod working? And is it? 

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

GiddyHitch said:


> Well, I recently pulled the trigger on a Ribbon Coil for the front end of my Ripley after reading the last half of this thread, appreciating Noah's ongoing feedback, and reading/watching numerous reviews. This will be my first coil fork purchase since 97 (Marzocchi Z2 that I still have) and I hope it goes just as well (Z2 was a transformative experience at the time).


Can't wait to see how you like it! Please keep us posted.

I'm currently riding a 2018 Jeffsy with a Ribbon Coil. Considering a Ripley for my next bike, something a little more climby for longer days.


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

I know this has been asked before, but has anyone found any good alternatives to the MRP Bleed Cup and Valve tool for doing a damper service? I'll order them up if need be, but if I could get 99% of the way there using something I might already have in my garage or with a quick trip to the store, I'd certainly give that a try. I have Shimano brake and Rockshox Pike/Reverb bleed kits at my disposal and a hardware store with a decent selection of random bulk hardware nearby. 
I have a bit of free play (followed by a knock) at the beginning of a compression stroke, so I assume there's a bit of air in the damper and while it still performs pretty well, its also time for an oil change anyways so might as well get it all done at once.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

escrowdog said:


> Can't wait to see how you like it! Please keep us posted.
> 
> I'm currently riding a 2018 Jeffsy with a Ribbon Coil. Considering a Ripley for my next bike, something a little more climby for longer days.


I should have some initial impressions by the end of the month. I finally got my Fox 34 dialed so the urgency to switch has abated and I've just been enjoying riding. Nevertheless, I am really looking forward to trying out the Coil.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

GiddyHitch said:


> I should have some initial impressions by the end of the month. I finally got my Fox 34 dialed so the urgency to switch has abated and I've just been enjoying riding. Nevertheless, I am really looking forward to trying out the Coil.


I went from a 34 to a Ribbon Coil. Coil is like 8,452x better.


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

kerpoise said:


> Does anyone know where to get the crush washers for the foot bolts? They're thin shims, one got damaged changing the spring, I've replaced with a spare shim, but the OD is too wide, and it's a bit too thick.
> 
> Or... Does anyone have the ID and OD to hand? I didn't measure before reassembling.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


Did you get this sorted? I just had the same thing happen to me.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

radam25 said:


> Did you get this sorted? I just had the same thing happen to me.


I bought a big pack of washers that'll fit from eBay.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

kerpoise said:


> I bought a big pack of washers that'll fit from eBay.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


got a link to the item?


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

radam25 said:


> got a link to the item?


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/254322914822

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

SkaredShtles said:


> I went from a 34 to a Ribbon Coil. Coil is like 8,452x better.


I would agree! My '18 Jeffsy came with a 34 Rhythm, crap. Although when I went coil I was seeking trail soaking plush last winter riding the embedded rock trails in the ozarks. And I'm fairly new back into riding as of a year ago, so since then I've gotten faster and more comfortable again and would maybe like something a little more poppy. Maybe?


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Just be mindful not to strip out the lowers. The crush washers are there to make sure that does not happen. I trashed my crush washers and replaced them with brass washers that from home despot. Took a drill to them to get the exact metric diameter. I thought brass would be the best alternative since the material is soft, and on the air spring side aids somewhat in making sure the air spring side is sealed at the foot nut. I have had leaks there. MRP is stingy with the crush washers. I need a bag of like 50.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

escrowdog said:


> I would agree! My '18 Jeffsy came with a 34 Rhythm, crap. Although when I went coil I was seeking trail soaking plush last winter riding the embedded rock trails in the ozarks. And I'm fairly new back into riding as of a year ago, so since then I've gotten faster and more comfortable again and would maybe like something a little more poppy. Maybe?


Depending on where you are in the spring recommendation chart, you might consider going up from whatever you have now to the next stiffer spring option... might get you the "poppier" ride you're looking for...


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

SkaredShtles said:


> Depending on where you are in the spring recommendation chart, you might consider going up from whatever you have now to the next stiffer spring option... might get you the "poppier" ride you're looking for...


Maybe Noah could comment on the difference in feel going up a spring size OR adding preload to the existing spring?

I've tried adding a preload to the spring and didn't care for the feel, just seemed to get harsh vs more supportive.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

escrowdog said:


> Maybe Noah could comment on the difference in feel going up a spring size OR adding preload to the existing spring?
> 
> I've tried adding a preload to the spring and didn't care for the feel, just seemed to get harsh vs more supportive.


You shouldn't be using preload for 'tuning' the fork. Although it does have an effect on breakaway force, and at the limits an effect on bottom out, it's really to set the ride height. And given you can move your weight forward and back, it doesn't actually matter that much.

If you add more preload, generally it'll feel harsher in the first part of travel.

You should go up a spring rate if you are blowing through the travel, and bottoming out too much.

You should also go up, if you're maxing out the preload to get the right sag.

If you want a more 'poppy' fork, go air. Or reduce your rebound damping and increase your compression damping, to increase the ride height and give you more platform.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> You shouldn't be using preload for 'tuning' the fork. Although it does have an effect on breakaway force, and at the limits an effect on bottom out, it's really to set the ride height. And given you can move your weight forward and back, it doesn't actually matter that much.
> 
> If you add more preload, generally it'll feel harsher in the first part of travel.
> 
> ...


Agree on all points.

The fork is very plush with virtually zero stiction. I find it's so plush sometimes at low speed it will "smush" into a hole or larger rock vs. roll over it, and almost stop me in my tracks. It's of course very linear, so that plushness goes deep into the travel. Definitely not bottoming out, nor am I sending it enough to bottom out. But as you mentioned I might be that I'm now leaning back toward...gulp...air. SMH.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

escrowdog said:


> Agree on all points.
> 
> The fork is very plush with virtually zero stiction. I find it's so plush sometimes at low speed it will "smush" into a hole or larger rock vs. roll over it, and almost stop me in my tracks. It's of course very linear, so that plushness goes deep into the travel. Definitely not bottoming out, nor am I sending it enough to bottom out. But as you mentioned I might be that I'm now leaning back toward...gulp...air. SMH.


Definitely go up a spring.

You shouldn't be blowing through the travel so that it almost throws you over the bars.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> Definitely go up a spring.
> 
> You shouldn't be blowing through the travel so that it almost throws you over the bars.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


I'm about 208 lbs with my shoes and gear on. Backpack depends, maybe another 5 lbs with lot of water.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

escrowdog said:


> I'm about 208 lbs with my shoes and gear on. Backpack depends, maybe another 5 lbs with lot of water.


Are you on a medium spring? If so - get thee to the firm spring STAT! If on firm, give the x-firm a go.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

SkaredShtles said:


> Are you on a medium spring? If so - get thee to the firm spring STAT! If on firm, give the x-firm a go.


I'm 165lb and on a medium spring, so totally you want firm or x-firm!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> I'm 165lb and on a medium spring, so totally you want firm or x-firm!
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


Interesting...as my sag is perfect.

That said, it's cheap enough to try the next size spring.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

escrowdog said:


> Interesting...as my sag is perfect.
> 
> That said, it's cheap enough to try the next size spring.


Before you do that, how much ramp up have you got wound on?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> Before you do that, how much ramp up have you got wound on?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


NO RAMP...I don't bottom out, so I've left the ramp completely open.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Slight hijack... Obviously I've got a Ribbon Coil, but because it's so awesome, I've dug out my MRP stage. 

When adding air, and then pressing the bleed nipple to equalise the chambers, no air comes out. The ramp control knob has gone really stiff too. 

Pulling the lowers doesn't do anything either.

They've not been ridden since ISON serviced them. 

Any ideas on what I can do to fix it?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> From what you describe it doesn't sound like a tuning or setup issue is at play. Please send me an e-mail with your serial number, fork specs, date and place of purchase, and anything else of note. We'll go from there. E-mail is noah (at) mrpbike.com.
> 
> Thanks!


Just updating the thread for posterity and another great customer service story. Noah helped me get a replacement fork after sending mine in for warranty twice. I got one shakedown ride on the new fork, about 10 miles of different stuff and some man-made drops.

So far the difference is night and day. People throw sayings around like that a lot but I can't stress enough just how good the new fork feels. It really highlights for me how wrong the previous fork was.

I'm blowing through rooty sections with grip and poise where has the other fork had me hanging on for dear life.

I'm pumping hard into corners and coming out with speed and flow. Before, I would lose traction and eventually just stopped trying out of fear of washing out.

We're getting rain now but I'm headed up to Kingdom Trails on Wednesday and am so stoked to have this thing sorted out.

Big thanks to Noah and the MRP crew as well as the community here.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

What did MRP determine what was wrong with your old fork?


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

My guess is they haven't had time to look at it yet. I'm very curious myself.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

kerpoise said:


> Before you do that, how much ramp up have you got wound on?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the heads up on trying the Ramp Control!! For some reason, I had it in my head Ramp Control was for controlling the bottoming, which I guess it is. But, it also adds a LOT of support in the middle! I went out on the driveway, turned Ramp Control all the way on, yes it's working, dialed it back to 15 clicks from 0. Went for a 13 mile ride today, pretty chunky in a lot of it, the kind of low speed bobbly stuff on climbs that would suck a wheel in. No more hanging up or smushing into larger obstacles at lower speed! Truly the best of both worlds...trail soaking small bump of a coil and now some "air" feel in the middle for support and pop! I ended up about 6 clicks from 0 as a good balance of added support in the middle and still comfortable descending the chunks.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

escrowdog said:


> Thanks for the heads up on trying the Ramp Control!! For some reason, I had it in my head Ramp Control was for controlling the bottoming, which I guess it is. But, it also adds a LOT of support in the middle! I went out on the driveway, turned Ramp Control all the way on, yes it's working, dialed it back to 15 clicks from 0. Went for a 13 mile ride today, pretty chunky in a lot of it, the kind of low speed bobbly stuff on climbs that would suck a wheel in. No more hanging up or smushing into larger obstacles at lower speed! Truly the best of both worlds...trail soaking small bump of a coil and now some "air" feel in the middle for support and pop! I ended up about 6 clicks from 0 as a good balance of added support in the middle and still comfortable descending the chunks.


No worries, glad you sorted it!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

escrowdog said:


> Thanks for the heads up on trying the Ramp Control!! For some reason, I had it in my head Ramp Control was for controlling the bottoming, which I guess it is. But, it also adds a LOT of support in the middle! I went out on the driveway, turned Ramp Control all the way on, yes it's working, dialed it back to 15 clicks from 0. Went for a 13 mile ride today, pretty chunky in a lot of it, the kind of low speed bobbly stuff on climbs that would suck a wheel in. No more hanging up or smushing into larger obstacles at lower speed! Truly the best of both worlds...trail soaking small bump of a coil and now some "air" feel in the middle for support and pop! I ended up about 6 clicks from 0 as a good balance of added support in the middle and still comfortable descending the chunks.


Hopefully @NoahColorado can chime in on this - how much of the bottom of the stroke is controlled by the Ramp? My understanding was that the RC unit ONLY had an impact on the last "<x> mm" of travel. But I ain't no expert.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

polarflux said:


> What did MRP determine what was wrong with your old fork?


We have not received it yet.


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## escrowdog (Oct 26, 2018)

SkaredShtles said:


> Hopefully @NoahColorado can chime in on this - how much of the bottom of the stroke is controlled by the Ramp? My understanding was that the RC unit ONLY had an impact on the last "<x> mm" of travel. But I ain't no expert.


I can tell you it firms up the from mid stroke to bottom, depending on how much you dial in. It leaves the initial breakaway and small bump stuff just as it is, but definitely adds an "air" feel to the middle depending the amount of clicks.


----------



## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

So I'm really getting excited for that Jackson shock.
Noah can you say if it will be available as a 165x45 TRUNNION?
Really cool to see a tunable inline shock and a smart move considering the move to shorter travel lighter 29er trail bikes (downcountry).


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I'm really getting excited for that Jackson shock.
> Noah can you say if it will be available as a 165x45 TRUNNION?
> Really cool to see a tunable inline shock and a smart move considering the move to shorter travel lighter 29er trail bikes (downcountry).


It's pretty sweet! I can't get into details, but yeah, that's a planned size.

Sorry for my recent absence from this thread, I'll get y'all some answers on outstanding questions soon.

Thanks


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Awesome I'll hold off on sending my fox shock to Avalanche.


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## sternomac (Jun 7, 2013)

NoahColorado said:


> We have not received it yet.


Was delivered yesterday according to my tracking number.


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## budgie (May 14, 2004)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> So I'm really getting excited for that Jackson shock.


Yes, yes indeed!


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> It's pretty sweet! I can't get into details, but yeah, that's a planned size.
> 
> Sorry for my recent absence from this thread, I'll get y'all some answers on outstanding questions soon.
> 
> Thanks


"Lucky for us, a Pinkbike reader in Grand Junction, Colorado, MRP's hometown, isn't so stingy with the photos."

RRRRiiight. "spotted". is this true Noah or was it "allowed" to be leaked?


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

FactoryMatt said:


> "Lucky for us, a Pinkbike reader in Grand Junction, Colorado, MRP's hometown, isn't so stingy with the photos."
> 
> RRRRiiight. "spotted". is this true Noah or was it "allowed" to be leaked?


It's true, someone sent them a pic. They asked me about it and I gave them another, better photo and a statement. But they were going to post something regardless.


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## FactoryMatt (Apr 25, 2018)

dang! free press!


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## rock3gozy (Jun 13, 2007)

Help! So my compression dial didn't seem to be working right today. I've taken it off, losing one ball bearing in the process (already ordered).

However I can't work out what the dial actually turns, can anyone tell me where the grub screw should engage? There seems to be two internal grub screws so I'm not sure if the external one should be screwed in to one of the threaded recesses or sit somewhere else.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Well I broke my damper so your doing better then me.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

rock3gozy said:


> Help! So my compression dial didn't seem to be working right today. I've taken it off, losing one ball bearing in the process (already ordered).
> 
> However I can't work out what the dial actually turns, can anyone tell me where the grub screw should engage? There seems to be two internal grub screws so I'm not sure if the external one should be screwed in to one of the threaded recesses or sit somewhere else.


This should help... 




Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

What causes the damper to get air into it when dropping the lowers? I'm pretty sure that's why mine needs bleeding. 

I've bought the rebound removal kit to help, but I wanna know why it's happened


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

kerpoise said:


> What causes the damper to get air into it when dropping the lowers? I'm pretty sure that's why mine needs bleeding.
> 
> I've bought the rebound removal kit to help, but I wanna know why it's happened


Mine got some air probably as the Rebound was fully open or fully closed when unscrewing the damper bolt caused the dial to unscrew from damper rod, lost some oil and probably got air in on exchange.
Sadly, it just came from damper bleed service and I just wanted to up the travel..

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

GiddyHitch said:


> Well, I recently pulled the trigger on a Ribbon Coil for the front end of my Ripley after reading the last half of this thread, appreciating Noah's ongoing feedback, and reading/watching numerous reviews. This will be my first coil fork purchase since 97 (Marzocchi Z2 that I still have) and I hope it goes just as well (Z2 was a transformative experience at the time).





escrowdog said:


> Can't wait to see how you like it! Please keep us posted.
> 
> I'm currently riding a 2018 Jeffsy with a Ribbon Coil. Considering a Ripley for my next bike, something a little more climby for longer days.


So I have four rides (~55 miles) with the Ribbon Coil 140mm on my Ripley and some initial impressions to share. The stock fork was a Fox 34 Factory 130mm (FIT4) that took a long time to dial in, mostly due to factory grease clogging up the negative volume chamber, but it sure was running nicely by the time I took it off. Anyways, here are my observations ...

The Ribbon Coil is plush. Soooo plush. But always composed. It's what I wanted my Fox to feel like in the chunky stuff and on big hits but never did. It makes me think back to my old Marzocchi Z2, so there might just be something to these coil forks after all (ha). I find myself testing and choosing bad and rough lines more often (against my hardtail-honed instincts) because I can and because it's fun.

In fast chunk or when flying through a turn with a bunch of braking bumps, the Fox will jackhammer you a bit (FIT4 damper getting overwhelmed) and you're just kind of hanging on and trying to keep it pointed in the right direction - I'm a longtime hardtail rider so I'm used to this. The MRP on the other hand, will just go squish-squish-squish and track so smoothly through that stuff that it's almost like cheating. It's much more composed in those situations.

The plush coil spring and controlled damping combine to "slow" things down for me in technical sections, for lack of a better term. Not slow in terms of speed, but instead gives me more time to pick my line better, take more time to get a better approach, and generally not feel like I'm getting pinballed around and out of control. I find myself coming to the end of what qualifies as a rock garden around here with the option of taking the inside line on the turn right after the garden instead of being forced to always take the outside line with the Fox. I think I appreciate even more on uphill technical features, which is a weak area for me as a clipless rider - the Coil tracks so well here and the spring is so forgiving that it actually makes me look like a competent rider at times.

Are there any downsides? Yeah, it doesn't feel as light on the front and poppy of the lip of a jump. I'm not one to fret over component weight too much so I don't think this heaviness is psychosomatic so perhaps there is something there or perhaps it's a tuning issue. And then the pop issue is apparently a well known trail or coil springs when compared to air springs but I think it's completely manageable once I get my timing more dialed in. The coil simply feels a little more sluggish and slower than the air spring - you have to start earlier and give it a little more body English to get up. And as a rider who likes to jump off trail features, side hits, and crests way more than built jumps and hucks to flat (never), this is the one characteristic that could drive me back to the Fox more than any other.

I had a section written up previously about how the Coil feels like it has too much platform (stiffer) off the top that was making my hands hurt after rides, but still with good small bump compliance, even after dumping the compression damping and most of the Ramp Control, but backing the preload out one full turn managed to fix this completely. I've got that little bit of compliance that I was looking for with plenty of platform and no diving. Good times!

Lastly, I was curious how the travel increase (only 10mm but still) from stock would affect the comfort and handling of my Ripley. I have to say now that it's pretty much a non-issue after dropping my stem by 10mm and moving spacers to the top. Steep climbs might be a touch more difficult (got move further up on the saddle) but tight switchbacks and general handling are unaffected at my skill level. I might go down to 130mm travel (is that even possible on the Coil?) when I service the fork but I'm not in any hurry and maybe not even then.

I'll probably ride the Coil for another month or so and then throw the Fox 34 back on to get a true apples-to-apples comparison with both forks dialed in.


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

GiddyHitch said:


> So I have four rides (~55 miles) with the Ribbon Coil 140mm on my Ripley and some initial impressions to share. The stock fork was a Fox 34 Factory 130mm (FIT4) that took a long time to dial in, mostly due to factory grease clogging up the negative volume chamber, but it sure was running nicely by the time I took it off. Anyways, here are my observations ...


Great to hear!

140mm is the shortest you can go with the Ribbon Coil, BTW.

You might try speeding up your rebound if you're finding the fork less-playful than you'd like. I like to juke and jive on the trail and I don't find that coil really prevents this, if anything I'm more apt to jump off of things since I know whatever lies in the landing will be handled! I ride in Moab a lot this time of year and you kinda have to ride that way to keep your momentum. So maybe it just takes some getting used to.


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

GiddyHitch said:


> <snip>
> I'll probably ride the Coil for another month or so and then throw the Fox 34 back on to get a true apples-to-apples comparison with both forks dialed in.


DON'T DO IT!! Sell that thing before it depreciates any more!


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

SkaredShtles said:


> DON'T DO IT!! Sell that thing before it depreciates any more!


I've got a 2019 Fox 34 Step-Cast Factory FIT4 on my XC bike.

The Ribbon coil is massively better.

The fox is great because it's so light, and you can tune the air spring more than the coil. But the performance of the Ribbon is just better.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> You might try speeding up your rebound if you're finding the fork less-playful than you'd like. I like to juke and jive on the trail and I don't find that coil really prevents this, if anything I'm more apt to jump off of things since I know whatever lies in the landing will be handled! I ride in Moab a lot this time of year and you kinda have to ride that way to keep your momentum. So maybe it just takes some getting used to.


I think that this is a timing thing, and maybe a confidence thing, more than anything else because it becomes less and less of a concern with more time on the fork. I'll try running my rebound faster though.



SkaredShtles said:


> DON'T DO IT!! Sell that thing before it depreciates any more!


Ha. I was planning to send it off to Vorsprung for a Luftkappe and Fractive to see what that does for performance. But it will end up on my hardtail most likely since that thing is sporting a decade old fork.



kerpoise said:


> I've got a 2019 Fox 34 Step-Cast Factory FIT4 on my XC bike.
> 
> The Ribbon coil is massively better.
> 
> The fox is great because it's so light, and you can tune the air spring more than the coil. But the performance of the Ribbon is just better.


Yeah, those things have 32 internals with 34 stanchions so I'm not surprised.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

NoahColorado said:


> You might try speeding up your rebound if you're finding the fork less-playful than you'd like. I like to juke and jive on the trail and I don't find that coil really prevents this,


That worked! I'm now running no rebound damping, compression damping, nor ramp control though. I'm guessing that I should look at going to a lower weight damper oil at service, eh Noah?


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## SkaredShtles (May 13, 2007)

kerpoise said:


> <snip>
> 
> The fox is great because it's so light, and you can tune the air spring more than the coil. But the performance of the Ribbon is just better.


Yeah - I'm not a fiddler, so the air fork stuff has always been fairly disappointing to me. I just want a fork that I can hop on and it doesn't destroy my hands/wrists by the end of a multi-mile gnarly downhill.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

I'm about to buy some Motul damper oil... Should I go with 5wt or try 2.5wt?


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Fork oil weights are all over the place! Look up each brand and compare the reported [email protected] before buying. I think MRP used Torco rff 7wt that has cst of 16.1. Mutol 2.5 is similar to that. Seems like Mutol is thicker. I'm going to try Maxima 3wt to make the damping lighter.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

FactoryMatt said:


> you're killing me lol. just ride the thing
> 
> it's pretty thin, pretty soft paint. maybe try a good clear coat. and kiss resale goodbye if that matters.


 Ha ha actually my polishing them made the finish more durable. And they don't get that faded look that seems to happen if you clean them with alcohol.

Also need to find out if I can get them chocoluxe internals sent to me. The site says can get them with a fork service but I don't need a fork service. 
And I can do the service myself I've had the damper cartridge completely apart several times I could disassemble/reassemble blindfolded at this point.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kevin van deventer said:


> also need to find out if i can get them chocoluxe internals sent to me. The site says can get them with a fork service but i don't need a fork service.


wb-17-5040 ribbon coil chocoluxe upgrade $54.95
wb-17-5041 ribbon air chocoluxe upgrade $64.95


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

NoahColorado said:


> wb-17-5040 ribbon coil chocoluxe upgrade $54.95
> wb-17-5041 ribbon air chocoluxe upgrade $64.95


 Sweet. Thanks Noah.


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## dduk (Jun 4, 2007)

Just got my Ribbon Air and had a chance to take it for its first ride. 10 years ago I was on a Reba that was nice and plush and perfect for XC rides. After moving to Oregon 5 years ago, the Reba extended to 120mm just turned it into a noodle. Switched to a Fox 34 (with MRP Ramp Control) and appreciated the increase in chassis stiffness, but certainly want as plush as the Reba and rode quite deep in its travel. When switching to a boost frame, went with the Ribbon Air and what a difference! The suppleness I remember from the Reba, but it rides much higher in its travel. The Ribbon tracks so much better than the Fox 34 as well. That was very surprising. I didn't realize I was bouncing around on the Fox as much as I was until I rode the Ribbon.

2 minor issues. First the fork is quite noisy in both the compression and rebound stroke when hitting high speed impacts. Something I'll need to get used to. Second, I'm missing having a true lockout. Adding the full 8 clicks of low speed compression damping works well when climbing seated, but once you're out of the saddle it will bob up and down. 

All in all, very happy so far.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

Top out thump?

Anyone else running a Ribbon Air get a hard thump at rapid full extension (with the bike resting on the floor push down on the bars and pull up rapidly). I have not found any mention in reviews of this fork so I’m starting to think perhaps I’ve got it set up incorrectly. It’s always had this issue and speaking to the folks at MRP they have made a couple of suggestions including sending me a softer top out bumper. Nothing solves the issue except running at least 10psi more neg air pressure. I prefer this fork set up a little firmer but then I get the thump at top out, which I prefer not to experience. 

I appreciate any help!

Cheers,


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Top out thump?
> 
> Anyone else running a Ribbon Air get a hard thump at rapid full extension (with the bike resting on the floor push down on the bars and pull up rapidly). I have not found any mention in reviews of this fork so I'm starting to think perhaps I've got it set up incorrectly. It's always had this issue and speaking to the folks at MRP they have made a couple of suggestions including sending me a softer top out bumper. Nothing solves the issue except running at least 10psi more neg air pressure. I prefer this fork set up a little firmer but then I get the thump at top out, which I prefer not to experience.
> 
> ...


Howdy,

So did you swap out the top-out bumper?

"I prefer this fork set up a little firmer but then I get the thump at top out"
I assume you're getting the firmness you like by setting the pressures equally? There are other ways to firm-up the ride you might try. You could increase your pressures (and run 5-10psi more in negative) or add some low-speed compression. Have you tried those setups?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy,
> 
> So did you swap out the top-out bumper?
> 
> ...


Hi Noah, yes it appeared the same as the one already in there but I did so anyways the thump is still there.

I have not been able to experiment with anything lower than 110% psi in the neg. chamber as I get the hard thump at top out. I'm using the same digital gauge you had suggested in the past, I can perhaps do something like 9psi over but definitely not equal or close to.

I've tried running higher pressures to keep the fork up, for my weight (150lb) MRP recommends 75psi pos. (120mm travel) I've had to go north of 105psi to get to a reasonable sag point (shooting for 20%). The thump persists at any pos pressure I've experimented with (60-110) unless I run at least 110% psi in the neg. chamber. The issue is running 110% psi in the neg. chamber drops my fork down by almost 10mm before I sit on the bike sitting on it then gets me well past 20% sag point. I am in the process of raising the travel to accommodate the loss of height but unfortunately broke the damper knob on install (I forgot about the procedure of opening up the rebound all the way etc.) I've since acquired the more detailed service manual.

Is it possible to run less than 110% psi in the neg chamber and not get the hard thump at top out? Or is this just by design?

Thanks,


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Hi Noah, yes it appeared the same as the one already in there but I did so anyways the thump is still there.
> 
> I have not been able to experiment with anything lower than 110% psi in the neg. chamber as I get the hard thump at top out. I'm using the same digital gauge you had suggested in the past, I can perhaps do something like 9psi over but definitely not equal or close to.
> 
> ...


Where is your rebound set? Does your damper appear to be working normally?

Some of what you might perceive as travel loss when you exceed equal pressure is just the top out bumper decompressing -- you aren't actually "losing travel" rather, your fork is hyperextended. How much stanchion is showing from the top of the wiper to the inside edge the fork crown when you fill it to 105-110% negative?


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> Where is your rebound set? Does your damper appear to be working normally?
> 
> Some of what you might perceive as travel loss when you exceed equal pressure is just the top out bumper decompressing -- you aren't actually "losing travel" rather, your fork is hyperextended. How much stanchion is showing from the top of the wiper to the inside edge the fork crown when you fill it to 105-110% negative?


I'll have to measure the stanchion when I get the replacement rebound knob adjuster.

I had about 8 clicks out on the rebound and didn't run any compression usually. I'm either going up steep switchbacks or down them.

I'm not suggesting I'm losing travel I don't know if I am. Only that the fork will suck down about 10mm and then I sit on the bike and I get sag of course. Essentially I'm not getting the 532 atoc with the bike just sitting which is unlike my 34 or Pikes that sit at quoted atoc. This fork is on a hardtail so that drop of the front end is noticed more than I imagine it would be on a full sus.

Still if I had to run it at 130 that's no big deal. The annoying issue is the inability to run the neg pressure at anything less than 110% without the thump which it quite noticeable when riding so much so I'm really surprised it's not mentioned more, hence why I think I must be doing something wrong


----------



## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

geraldooka said:


> Still if I had to run it at 130 that's no big deal. The annoying issue is the inability to run the neg pressure at anything less than 110% without the thump which it quite noticeable when riding so much so I'm really surprised it's not mentioned more, hence why I think I must be doing something wrong


The scenario you have is that at 120mm you've got to run higher pressures than most on this thread (who are mostly 140-170). Top out is influenced by the top-out bumper, the negative air-spring, and rebound damping. Your fork is rebounding with such force that the top-out bumper is not providing adequate...bumpering? Using more negative spring pressure takes some of the burden off the top-out bumper.

First we went too soft on our top-out bumpers, they didn't "thunk" but they would get compressed and deform over time. I think we went too far the other direction on the second gen ones, they didn't provide enough cushion. Third generation bumpers use the same material as our Hazzard coil-shock bottom-out bumpers. They're better IMO. We have yet another version we're testing though, and we would be happy to send you one. The durometer is in-between the first and second gen parts.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

geraldooka said:


> Top out thump?
> 
> Anyone else running a Ribbon Air get a hard thump at rapid full extension (with the bike resting on the floor push down on the bars and pull up rapidly). I have not found any mention in reviews of this fork so I'm starting to think perhaps I've got it set up incorrectly. It's always had this issue and speaking to the folks at MRP they have made a couple of suggestions including sending me a softer top out bumper. Nothing solves the issue except running at least 10psi more neg air pressure. I prefer this fork set up a little firmer but then I get the thump at top out, which I prefer not to experience.
> 
> ...


I have the exact same issue, even after having the fork back to MRP once to be checked out. It isn't overly noticeable out riding and I'm usually at about +8psi on the neg chamber anyway, so never pushed them further on the issue.

Not sure if it's related, but my fork "falls" (ie. no dampening) into the first approx 15mm of it's stroke after being fully extended. The leads to a bit of a thunk feeling, kinda like a loose headset. Sending it in for that issue didn't resolve it either. Much more pronounced the more LSC is used.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiotae said:


> Not sure if it's related, but my fork "falls" (ie. no dampening) into the first approx 15mm of it's stroke after being fully extended. The leads to a bit of a thunk feeling, kinda like a loose headset. Sending it in for that issue didn't resolve it either. Much more pronounced the more LSC is used.


That sounds like air in the damper. If your fork was returned to you like that following service, that's not acceptable. Please reach out to us via e-mail info (at) mrpbike.com if so.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

NoahColorado said:


> The scenario you have is that at 120mm you've got to run higher pressures than most on this thread (who are mostly 140-170). Top out is influenced by the top-out bumper, the negative air-spring, and rebound damping. Your fork is rebounding with such force that the top-out bumper is not providing adequate...bumpering? Using more negative spring pressure takes some of the burden off the top-out bumper.
> 
> First we went too soft on our top-out bumpers, they didn't "thunk" but they would get compressed and deform over time. I think we went too far the other direction on the second gen ones, they didn't provide enough cushion. Third generation bumpers use the same material as our Hazzard coil-shock bottom-out bumpers. They're better IMO. We have yet another version we're testing though, and we would be happy to send you one. The durometer is in-between the first and second gen parts.


I'd be thankful for anything that may reduce or eliminate the thunk!


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

NoahColorado said:


> That sounds like air in the damper. If your fork was returned to you like that following service, that's not acceptable. Please reach out to us via e-mail info (at) mrpbike.com if so.


Thanks for the response Noah.

That's what Eric seemed to think as well and had me try to do a bleed on it at home. It didn't work (I only lost 1 tiny detent bearing!) so the next step was sending it in. The report back was that they saw some cavitation (which I don't understand) and fixed that up.

I didn't really see any improvement. It's kinda hard to explain, but really obvious when you see it. It's like the initial sticktion is holding it up and it breaks into that very initial part of the stroke with a small thunk, then all work great. Running the neg chamber high negates a lot of it to the point when it's only really noticeable in the parking lot.

Honestly, the fork feels so good otherwise I just have gotten used to it and figured I'd tackle it again when it's time for a full service in Spring. It's well out of warranty now, so I'd rather pay for it all at once.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

All fixed! 

I've got 2.5wt Motul oil in my Coil. The low speed adjuster feels like it barely changes anything now - although the rebound goes from pretty slow to very fast, so it must be working!


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Maybe spoke too soon! 

I'm not sure if it's the lighter weight oil, at 2.5wt, but the low speed compression adjust doesn't feel like it is changing anything. 

I've got 6 clicks, which all rotate fine as normal, but I don't feel any difference in platform. 

The rebound works fine as normal. 

What could I have done wrong when reassembling?


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

Month ago in the warmer Season i have done the Damper Oil change to Biotech 3Wt.
The Fork worked as i expected...
But now, Fall in Switzerland with Temperatures slightly over 2-5°C i have to set the rebound on 16 from closed. Seems like Biotech 3Wt reacts more with colder Temperatures...
What is your Experience with Stock Oil?
Rider with Backpack 150lbs, 52 positive 54 negativ. No Rampup...


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> Maybe spoke too soon!
> 
> I'm not sure if it's the lighter weight oil, at 2.5wt, but the low speed compression adjust doesn't feel like it is changing anything.
> 
> ...


Well, it appears I've two problems.

1. The damper rod has unthreaded from the silver flange, which should be semi-permanent and not be able to unscrew

2. The silver flange is too low in the crown, so it is allowing the oil to bypass the damper.

The chap at MRP has suggested removing the damper rod and the silver flange, to thread lock them together.

Has anyone removed the damper rod? I need some steps to follow!


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## Brig (Aug 18, 2012)

I had issues with my Ribbon from the getgo.
It was returned and rebuilt, with new lowers. It felt better, but has never felt amazing. A few people I’ve talked with told me how great the Ribbon was and then subsequently mentioned the coil kit they swapped in. From now on its Lyriks for me. My new bike came with a Lyrik and my hardtail has one as well. Buttery smooth. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> Well, it appears I've two problems.
> 
> 1. The damper rod has unthreaded from the silver flange, which should be semi-permanent and not be able to unscrew
> 
> ...


I assume you're talking to Eric? Did you ask him?


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> I assume you're talking to Eric? Did you ask him?


Yep, and yep - no reply so far on email. I'm assuming it's just busy answering support chats.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> Yep, and yep - no reply so far on email. I'm assuming it's just busy answering support chats.


DM me your name and I'll make sure you're taken care of ASAP.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

I just call and ask to speak to a tech and get taken care of instantly.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I just call and ask to speak to a tech and get taken care of instantly.


 I'm in the UK - so times and cost aren't on my side!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kerpoise said:


> I'm in the UK - so times and cost aren't on my side!


Our service dept can Skype too, FYI.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

NoahColorado said:


> Our service dept can Skype too, FYI.


Sweeeeeeeeeet!


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## n1cholasj (Nov 23, 2017)

Has anyone gone from air to coil and regretted it? I have my ribbon set at 140 on a gg trail pistol, its my do everything bike currently.t


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

n1cholasj said:


> Has anyone gone from air to coil and regretted it? I have my ribbon set at 140 on a gg trail pistol, its my do everything bike currently.t


I went from an air fork on my previous bike to a Ribon Coil on my GG Smash and don't regret that at all. I haven't tried a Ribbon Air.


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## rock3gozy (Jun 13, 2007)

Two (coil) related questions..

How much ramp are people running? I'm 160lbs (73kg) with kit on a medium spring. The last couple of rides have seen me bottom out on the medium spring. Yesterday was a 3/4ft drop to flat/roots. I reckon I have 8 clicks ramp already, will adding more have a significant impact on the bottom out resistance? They sounded pretty noisy on landing..

There are times where I feel like the soft spring was a nicer ride (with a bit more compression and preload) but not sure I'd have gotten away with this on yesterdays ride!

Secondly, on the back of the progressive springs for the Hazard (and other shocks), have you guys at MRP tested a progressive fork spring? I guess it depends on how effective the ramp control is ^^..


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

rock3gozy said:


> Two (coil) related questions..
> 
> How much ramp are people running? I'm 160lbs (73kg) with kit on a medium spring. The last couple of rides have seen me bottom out on the medium spring. Yesterday was a 3/4ft drop to flat/roots. I reckon I have 8 clicks ramp already, will adding more have a significant impact on the bottom out resistance? They sounded pretty noisy on landing..
> 
> ...


Same weight as you. Soft spring, all the ramp, 4 clicks of LSC.

Medium spring, 3 clicks of LSC and hardly any ramp.

I ride very steep, rooty stuff.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

geraldooka said:


> Top out thump?
> 
> Anyone else running a Ribbon Air get a hard thump at rapid full extension (with the bike resting on the floor push down on the bars and pull up rapidly). I have not found any mention in reviews of this fork so I'm starting to think perhaps I've got it set up incorrectly. It's always had this issue and speaking to the folks at MRP they have made a couple of suggestions including sending me a softer top out bumper. Nothing solves the issue except running at least 10psi more neg air pressure. I prefer this fork set up a little firmer but then I get the thump at top out, which I prefer not to experience.
> 
> ...


Have you totally emptied the pos and neg chambers and then used the pssst valves? I just did that on mine and a lot of air came out of the valves. The top out thunk is significantly reduced now.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

A quick shoutout to MRP. I posted about an issue I wanted to improve on my Ribbon Coil on MTBR. I got a PM from Noah to talk about it and we decided to send the fork in for a service as it was overdue. I got a call from Eric in service who had worked on my fork. He went over everything in detail and explained what the issue was. Turns out I left the damper service too long - my bad! He made sure the fork was working great including a dyno test.

Earlier in the year they also went out of their way to help me when I ended up with the wrong weight progressive spring [again due to my fault].

Having owned Fox/RS products for many years I can assure you I've never had any personal service like that. Totally rider focused operation. Thanks MRP you guys rock. :thumbsup:

FWIW - I bought the damper bleed tools so I can stay on top of that at home. Turns out I had air in my damper which was causing my issues. I knew I was stretching out the damper service interval and figured it would be okay as long as I kept the lowers lubed. My bad. :eekster:


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Did you try completely emptying both the pos and neg and then using the psst valves? I just did that, a bunch of air came out, and now the thunk is totally gone, even at even pos/neg pressures.


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## geraldooka (Jul 3, 2012)

kiotae said:


> Did you try completely emptying both the pos and neg and then using the psst valves? I just did that, a bunch of air came out, and now the thunk is totally gone, even at even pos/neg pressures.


I have but I'll give it another go. I just put it back together at the raised height of 130 from 120 hopefully that solves the issue.


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## mactheknife (Feb 25, 2018)

Hi all, this maybe has been covered previously but its a big old thread so ill ask anyway. Is it possible to convert a 27.5 ribbon coil to a 29er. 

I have a couple of new bikes i want to try and my shortlist are both 29ers. There is no chance i'm changed from the ribbon coil up front, so before i sell my 27.5 and go for a 29 ( if bike choice dictates obviously)


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## northerngnar (Oct 1, 2019)

Yes, it is possible. MRP sells a 29" casting. The max travel after this modification (and for the 29" Ribbon in general I think) is 160 mm and I think it yields a 46 mm offset if you started with a 42mm offset 27.5" fork (FWIW). I don't think the part is listed on their website, but if you contact customer service they can hook it up.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

vikb said:


> A quick shoutout to MRP. I posted about an issue I wanted to improve on my Ribbon Coil on MTBR. I got a PM from Noah to talk about it and we decided to send the fork in for a service as it was overdue. I got a call from Eric in service who had worked on my fork. He went over everything in detail and explained what the issue was. Turns out I left the damper service too long - my bad! He made sure the fork was working great including a dyno test.
> 
> Earlier in the year they also went out of their way to help me when I ended up with the wrong weight progressive spring [again due to my fault].
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reminder Vik. I have no doubt that mine's well overdue for a service.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Curveball said:


> Thanks for the reminder Vik. I have no doubt that mine's well overdue for a service.


I'm going to try and be good and follow the service schedule in the manual for 2020. I know it will totally be worth it. Now that I will have the tools and won't have to send the fork away should make things super easy. Just buy some beer on a rainy day and fire up Youtube!


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

mactheknife said:


> Hi all, this maybe has been covered previously but its a big old thread so ill ask anyway. Is it possible to convert a 27.5 ribbon coil to a 29er.
> 
> I have a couple of new bikes i want to try and my shortlist are both 29ers. There is no chance i'm changed from the ribbon coil up front, so before i sell my 27.5 and go for a 29 ( if bike choice dictates obviously)


 Yep it's $170 plus $20 for decals. And for that you can convert to a low offset 29er which is pretty cool in my book. And comes with new wipers and foam rings ready to go.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

Also I've finished modding my ribbon. I went with a much lighter high speed compression spring. And then after testing different damper oil weight I went with biotech 7wt.
The 7wt gives a little more firmness when out of the saddle but anything else the high speed activates and let's the oil flow.
Which is fine because I've never been able to bottom out with the soft spring.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

I'm up for a Fork service. I guess it's called lower leg service and I should also change the bath oil and wiper seals.
It's along thread and I know info has been posted about how to do it but I can't find it.

I'm happy with stock oil weight. What parts do I need? What brand oil?


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## mport78 (Feb 22, 2013)

Sorry if this has been asked already but this post is getting to long to read the whole thing. I have a Ribbon air 29 set at 140. My problem is when I push down on the fork it squeaks and it sounds like fluid is being pushed around.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

C-H said:


> I'm up for a Fork service. I guess it's called lower leg service and I should also change the bath oil and wiper seals.
> It's along thread and I know info has been posted about how to do it but I can't find it.
> 
> I'm happy with stock oil weight. What parts do I need? What brand oil?


5wt bike fork oil (or 7wt Torco fork oil oil). If the fork is relatively new, wiper seals can wait. Go to 
https://mrpbike.com/products/ribbon-29 and at the bottom under set up there's a video call travel change. That goes over the lower leg service. I think it is 15ml per side for oil.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

Thank you!
I'll go from there.


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## Bosbefok (Oct 23, 2018)

Hi Guys, I'm on the fence about buying a Ribbon coil and although all these very positive reviews on this thread does help, I need to just ask a question.

I had my bike stolen and Insurance is only paying out half of its value, which is leaving me looking in the classifieds. There is however a Ribbon coil in good condition. (note I don't have the option of buying for new right now)

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/mountain-bike-forks/2352/mrp-ribbon-coil-fork-price-drop

I ride trails, I like popping off stuff and getting air and I enter our local South African Enduro races. I am coming off a RS Pike RTC3.

My Questions: 
Is the coil the wrong fork for me? Can it be set up with enough support for me to push off and hop off stuff or is it going to soak that up? LSC should help for this. (155LBS)

Has any of you had issues with CSU's creaking, et? I am buying second hand and the warrentee would therefore be gone.

When riding around my house I often use gravel roads to get to the top of DH's. I know very active forks do bob excessively when climbing out the saddle. I use to use my 3 pos SLC on the pike quite a bit. Can one do the same with the LSC on the Ribbon?

Much appreciated

Stefan


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

Bosbefok, it's an absolutely poppy fork if you set it up that way. No issues with CSU creaking but I only have 200 miles on mine at this point. It will bob hammering out of the saddle if you set it up plush. That's about the only place it loses out to my old Fox 34 FIT4 (which can be locked out for the most part) besides weight. I'm learning that you're better off in terms of traction hammering in the saddle on modern bikes though.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Does this sound right or has anyone else experienced this? 

My Ribbon coil has always had 26 clicks of rebound but until recently I had never ran it past 18 clicks because I read here that anything past 18 was fully open. Well on a slow ride the other day I decided to play around with settings just for fun and noticed that there was quite a bit of difference between 18-20 clicks and 22 clicks of rebound(I usually turn 2 clicks at a time). 24 clicks felt a little too fast and 20 clicks and less felt slow. Is it just me or does my fork have 26 clicks of rebound adjustment? 

Is there any way to change it to 18 clicks of adjustment or should I just not worry about it? 

Feels kinda odd when the manual recommends 9 clicks of rebound for my 190lb weight.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

evan9r said:


> Does this sound right or has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> My Ribbon coil has always had 26 clicks of rebound but until recently I had never ran it past 18 clicks because I read here that anything past 18 was fully open. Well on a slow ride the other day I decided to play around with settings just for fun and noticed that there was quite a bit of difference between 18-20 clicks and 22 clicks of rebound(I usually turn 2 clicks at a time). 24 clicks felt a little too fast and 20 clicks and less felt slow. Is it just me or does my fork have 26 clicks of rebound adjustment?
> 
> ...


If I'm right Noah stated above that newer versions of the fork have more Rebound range /more clicks. Whether the adjustment per click is finer or it just allows for more open Rebound I don't know, I'd bet on the second.
I would set it to where it works for you and then forget about it.

Heh I also turn 2 clicks at a time l

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

romulin said:


> If I'm right Noah stated above that newer versions of the fork have more Rebound range /more clicks. Whether the adjustment per click is finer or it just allows for more open Rebound I don't know, I'd bet on the second.
> I would set it to where it works for you and then forget about it.
> 
> Heh I also turn 2 clicks at a time l
> ...


I don't remember when exactly it rolled into production, but for awhile now forks typically have 25 clicks of rebound adjustment.

If you're running a light spring rate (coil or air), I could see using settings more than 18 clicks from closed. Also, in general, there is less rebound damping needed for the coil forks than air forks, as air is progressive, so it tends to push back harder (especially from deeper in the stoke).

Fork travel will also influence rebound setting. As with most things involved with tuning, there's a lot of leeway to personal preference. Don't worry about diverging from baseline recommendations, experiment!


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Where did you get the lighter spring? I am interested in modding my damper as well.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

polarflux said:


> Where did you get the lighter spring? I am interested in modding my damper as well.


 I checked alot of places but all wanted at least $50.

I found some on ebay and they have many different weights and sizes diameter etc.

These run around $12 usd and come in packs of 10.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/223499147768

This listing is for 1.0 diameter which would be good for my 140lbs do you may need to message the seller for different diameter/weights.
Just have experiment with the weights.

Install is super easy will need to bleed after though.

I just got a deal on a trust shout fork it will be here tomorrow cant wait.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

Kevin Van Deventer said:


> I checked alot of places but all wanted at least $50.
> 
> I found some on ebay and they have many different weights and sizes diameter etc.
> 
> ...


What length of spring did you order? I know that info is in the thread somewhere but I am not finding it.


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## Kevin Van Deventer (Jan 31, 2015)

polarflux said:


> What length of spring did you order? I know that info is in the thread somewhere but I am not finding it.


12x15


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

kiotae said:


> Thanks for the response Noah.
> 
> That's what Eric seemed to think as well and had me try to do a bleed on it at home. It didn't work (I only lost 1 tiny detent bearing!) so the next step was sending it in. The report back was that they saw some cavitation (which I don't understand) and fixed that up.
> 
> ...


Just follow up here to give a shout out to Eric at MRP for taking care of this. Super quick turnaround and everything feels better than ever.


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

kiotae said:


> Just follow up here to give a shout out to Eric at MRP for taking care of this. Super quick turnaround and everything feels better than ever.


Great, thanks for the follow-up!


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Any Ribbon coil owners done the chocoLUXE upgrade? It’s already so smooth off the top and I’m really happy with the performance. But I’m tempted to go for it because I have FOMO. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

Sid Duffman said:


> Any Ribbon coil owners done the chocoLUXE upgrade? It's already so smooth off the top and I'm really happy with the performance. But I'm tempted to go for it because I have FOMO.












I did. I was getting the fork serviced at HQ anyways so I figured why not get the Chocoluxe treatment? It's on my summer bike and I am shredding my hardtail through our sloppy PNWet winter so I can't tell you how amazing it is....yet.


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

I just put a new ribbon coil on that has the new internals. It has been about 6 months since I sold my older one, so I can't really compare. But the ribbon coil has always been one of the most supple forks I've owned. I still like having an air fork too, but love how the coil reduces fatigue on a long ride.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

vikb said:


> I did. I was getting the fork serviced at HQ anyways so I figured why not get the Chocoluxe treatment? It's on my summer bike and I am shredding my hardtail through our sloppy PNWet winter so I can't tell you how amazing it is....yet.


LOL! I'm having the Chocoluxe treatment done on mine now while I ride my hardtail in the wet. Once I get it back, if we get dry spell, then I'll get it out to see what difference it makes.


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## evan9r (Oct 21, 2012)

Is there a rule of thumb that dictates how much % of travel should be used on braking, say, during a stoppie? 

For example, with my medium spring installed, open LSC, ~75% of 160mm of travel is used during a stoppie. Once increased it to 3-4 clicks from open, only ~30% is used. 

I am thinking this is where I need to be at, or should I go back to my firm spring so I can run LSC open?


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Does anyone have any pictures of the EssenTTial Damper removed from the fork?

I've only ever seen one pic:


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

evan9r said:


> Is there a rule of thumb that dictates how much % of travel should be used on braking, say, during a stoppie?
> 
> For example, with my medium spring installed, open LSC, ~75% of 160mm of travel is used during a stoppie. Once increased it to 3-4 clicks from open, only ~30% is used.
> 
> I am thinking this is where I need to be at, or should I go back to my firm spring so I can run LSC open?


I'd rather go by sag. And what you feel is better.
Most of us here like little compression and stiffer spring.
75%travel on stoppie with compression open would be to soft for me

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## 294037 (Jun 30, 2006)

PHeller said:


> Does anyone have any pictures of the EssenTTial Damper removed from the fork?
> 
> I've only ever seen one pic:
> 
> View attachment 1310121


Maybe, what in particular do you want to see?


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## pastafaryan (Feb 7, 2020)

Couple questions;

I know both have been addressed but finding the concrete answers in this thread was too hard.

1. What is the correct oil volume and weight for a lower oil-bath service? I've done it a few times with 50cc's of 5 weight, but it would be great to know the official recommendation.

2. I have a suspicious creaking/cracking sound from my general headset/steerer area. A friend with a lot of experience with Ribbons believes it may be coming from the crown race or where the stanchions meet the upper part of the fork. I threw on an old fox 34 and the cracking sound stopped, so I'm pretty confident it's coming from the Ribbon.

Any thoughts? Am I about to snap my stanchions off on a drop?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pastafaryan said:


> 1. What is the correct oil volume and weight for a lower oil-bath service? I've done it a few times with 50cc's of 5 weight, but it would be great to know the official recommendation.


15cc per side.


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

pastafaryan said:


> Any thoughts? Am I about to snap my stanchions off on a drop?


Not likely, but I would get that fixed because it would drive me nuts.


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## pastafaryan (Feb 7, 2020)

Whooooops meant 15 not 50. Sounds like I heard right, ty for the confirmation.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

evan9r said:


> Is there a rule of thumb that dictates how much % of travel should be used on braking, say, during a stoppie?
> 
> For example, with my medium spring installed, open LSC, ~75% of 160mm of travel is used during a stoppie. Once increased it to 3-4 clicks from open, only ~30% is used.
> 
> I am thinking this is where I need to be at, or should I go back to my firm spring so I can run LSC open?


LOL - humble brag 

No, there is no rule of thumb for a stoppie - you're asking about measuring spring rate relative to a move that 95% of the riding population cannot do.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

pastafaryan said:


> Couple questions;
> 
> I know both have been addressed but finding the concrete answers in this thread was too hard.
> 
> 1. What is the correct oil volume and weight for a lower oil-bath service? I've done it a few times with 50cc's of 5 weight, but it would be great to know the official recommendation.


5wt seems a little light 
I think 10wt is recommended

I only did 5wt once by mistake, turned black in a week of shredding. Now rocking 40wt gold. Gold

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Ribbon coil 275 for sale. Excellent condition...

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2730323/

This fork has served me well and is an excellent performer.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Anyone swapped out the lower oil fork something different to improve sub freezing performance? Mine works great until down to around 30 and then it's pretty rough. I'm hoping swapping oil in the lowers will make a significant difference.


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

living in the Swiss Alps and swapped the Damper Oil to PUTOLINE HPX 2.5, makes a immense difference.... thinking about the lower Oil, but keeping the Rockshox 0W30...


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

zweigelt said:


> living in the Swiss Alps and swapped the Damper Oil to PUTOLINE HPX 2.5, makes a immense difference.... thinking about the lower Oil, but keeping the Rockshox 0W30...


By coincidence I also live in Swiss alps.
But just bled with fresh 5wt. I wonder how ist the 2.5 better ?somebody here reported that lsc loses effectiveness

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

Yes, the LSC loses a bit of effectiveness. I am on the lighter Side(64kg)and missed the liveliness the fork had in warmer temperatures. My first Bleed was with Danico WT3, I found out this oil reacts to much on change of temperature. 
@romulin 5WT? Which one?


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

zweigelt said:


> @romulin 5WT? Which one?


Just fox, don't know much about oil and didn't research as opinions vary allot.

I've noticed this before, the fork seems to be very lively when it warms up a little, then it's super smooth. I think that may be the 20 gold in lowers. I don't mind tho

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## zweigelt (Jul 8, 2008)

romulin said:


> Just fox, don't know much about oil and didn't research as opinions vary allot.
> 
> I've noticed this before, the fork seems to be very lively when it warms up a little, then it's super smooth. I think that may be the 20 gold in lowers. I don't mind tho
> 
> Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs



For reference MRP uses Torco RFF 7.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

zweigelt said:


> Suspension fluids | Peter Verdone Designs
> 
> 
> 
> For reference MRP uses Torco RFF 7.


Cool, I just don't know what is best.
Low viscosity or high.?
Low in cool temp and high in hot temperatures so it still sticks and isn't just water at 100°c?

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## Sid Duffman (Oct 5, 2015)

Sid Duffman said:


> Any Ribbon coil owners done the chocoLUXE upgrade? It's already so smooth off the top and I'm really happy with the performance. But I'm tempted to go for it because I have FOMO.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Reporting back after getting ChocoLUXEd.

Fork feels fantastic. To be fair, it always feels great after a fresh service, so I'm not exactly getting an apples to apples comparison. But today there was a calmness when straight lining through chunk that I've only experienced on a fox 40.

Consider me pleased with the upgrade.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 4everkidd (May 19, 2020)

Sid Duffman said:


> Reporting back after getting ChocoLUXEd.
> 
> Fork feels fantastic. To be fair, it always feels great after a fresh service, so I'm not exactly getting an apples to apples comparison. But today there was a calmness when straight lining through chunk that I've only experienced on a fox 40.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is promising for me.

First post here on MTBR, and this is by no means meant to be a troll post.

I've read through this entire thread diligently over the last year and a half and i'm about ready to unload my fork for frustration (and fatigue)
I've never been able to properly set up my Ribbon Air on my Pivot Firebird 27.5. 
The fork feels harsh in the fast rooty, rocky, steep riding of the Alberta/BC Rockies. It also seems to dive when I go on the softer side of the spectrum. 
I'm 210-220lbs riding, 6'3" on an XL Pivot. I'm running a brand new Blackburn Honest digital shock pump, so I know my numbers are accurate. 
I generally play between 80-90psi positive and 82-98psi negative with ramp control and LSC adjusted accordingly. I have gone to the extreme ~60's as mentioned by another large rider much earlier in the thread however it made the bike feel like an absolute pig.

Something interesting is that my negative spring seems to lose drastic amounts of air (20-30%) during a heavy 3 hour ride, and almost equalizes when left overnight initial at 83/90 and wake up to 83/83.5

The fork was fully rebuilt at the end of last season after very little riding at a Vancouver based shop that specializes in only suspension.

I just reached out today for the first time to MRP and really hope I receive the same responses you all have as i'm definitely reached the sell and replace stage of ownership @NoahColorado


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

4everkidd said:


> That is promising for me.
> 
> First post here on MTBR, and this is by no means meant to be a troll post.
> 
> ...


Fast roots and rocks is where mine struggles as well. It gets better the faster I'm going, but would be nice to have it perform better on sharp hits when at "fun fast" speeds.


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## AcidLegs (Aug 9, 2017)

4everkidd said:


> That is promising for me.
> 
> First post here on MTBR, and this is by no means meant to be a troll post.
> 
> ...


I was in the same boat. After working with Eric at MRP, I changed the damper fluid to 2.5wt (small improvement) and changed the bath oil to 5wt, while upping the volume to 20cc. That made the biggest difference. The fork feels MUCH better over repeated hits.

FWIW: My Ribbon is set to 160mm, 71psi+ and 76psi-, ramp is 1 click from open, LSC is open, and rebound is 18 clicks from closed. I'm 195lbs.

MRP has been really great to work with, give them a call.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

I need to do a travel change anyway so I may try the bath oil adjustment. What oil did you use for the bath?


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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

4everkidd said:


> That is promising for me.
> 
> First post here on MTBR, and this is by no means meant to be a troll post.
> 
> ...


 Sometimes a particular fork just doesn't give us what we're looking for even with a lot of tuning. I'm in the camp of if I can't get it to ride nearly perfect in a month, it isn't for me. I love mrp as a company (owned 3 of their forks) but last year switched to one of the big brands most popular Enduro fork and it just blows me away on its capabilities from trail to park. AND it is so easy service. If you had a suspension company work on your fork and your setting are in the ballpark recommend by weight and you still don't love it....try something else. Riding has so much to do with confidence and when you love the way your fork/suspension feels....it only makes the experience better. Don't second guess yourself.


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## AcidLegs (Aug 9, 2017)

kiotae said:


> I need to do a travel change anyway so I may try the bath oil adjustment. What oil did you use for the bath?


I used Honda 5wt. It was the only fork oil I could find locally, and Eric told me it'd be fine. It's made by Showa for motorcycle forks.


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## 4everkidd (May 19, 2020)

AcidLegs said:


> I was in the same boat. After working with Eric at MRP, I changed the damper fluid to 2.5wt (small improvement) and changed the bath oil to 5wt, while upping the volume to 20cc. That made the biggest difference. The fork feels MUCH better over repeated hits.
> 
> FWIW: My Ribbon is set to 160mm, 71psi+ and 76psi-, ramp is 1 click from open, LSC is open, and rebound is 18 clicks from closed. I'm 195lbs.
> 
> MRP has been really great to work with, give them a call.


Excellent, thank you for the advice.

I'm looking forward to hearing back from MRP, especially with the potential leak on the negative side.

If that's "normal" i'll order the choco upgrade and give the fluid suggestion a try. I'd really rather not sell as I just ordered matching purple and pivot blue decals for my entire bike from Slikgraphics.com :thumbsup:


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

4everkidd said:


> Excellent, thank you for the advice.
> 
> I'm looking forward to hearing back from MRP, especially with the potential leak on the negative side.
> 
> If that's "normal" i'll order the choco upgrade and give the fluid suggestion a try.


Does your neg chamber only do that after you've dumped it and then refilled? When you set the pressure on it after a dump, it will drop a few psi over the next minute or so, which is enough to really change the feel. Leave the pump on there and be patient. You'll see it drop a little, then you can give another 1/2 pump and it'll go up and stay there. I thought I had the same problem until I found a comment regarding this on the thread here.


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## 4everkidd (May 19, 2020)

AcidLegs said:


> I was in the same boat. After working with Eric at MRP, I changed the damper fluid to 2.5wt (small improvement) and changed the bath oil to 5wt, while upping the volume to 20cc. That made the biggest difference. The fork feels MUCH better over repeated hits.
> 
> FWIW: My Ribbon is set to 160mm, 71psi+ and 76psi-, ramp is 1 click from open, LSC is open, and rebound is 18 clicks from closed. I'm 195lbs.
> 
> MRP has been really great to work with, give them a call.





4everkidd said:


> Excellent, thank you for the advice.
> 
> I'm looking forward to hearing back from MRP, especially with the potential leak on the negative side.
> 
> If that's "normal" i'll order the choco upgrade and give the fluid suggestion a try. I'd really rather not sell as I just ordered matching purple and pivot blue decals for my entire bike from Slikgraphics.com :thumbsup:





kiotae said:


> Does your neg chamber only do that after you've dumped it and then refilled? When you set the pressure on it after a dump, it will drop a few psi over the next minute or so, which is enough to really change the feel. Leave the pump on there and be patient. You'll see it drop a little, then you can give another 1/2 pump and it'll go up and stay there. I thought I had the same problem until I found a comment regarding this on the thread here.


I always leave the pump on and walk away for a few minutes, just as you mentioned. I noticed that when I grabbed the digital pump that it drops slowly until the pressure stabilizes.

Update: I reached out to MRP over the weekend via email and they got back to me today. The customer service mentioned in all 11 pages of this thread didn't disappoint as they believe they know what is wrong and have requested I send the fork in for repairs. 
Yes, there will be some downtime on the bike but I am very excited to get the fork back and experience what i've only read about.


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## BmanInTheD (Sep 19, 2014)

4everkidd said:


> I always leave the pump on and walk away for a few minutes, just as you mentioned. I noticed that when I grabbed the digital pump that it drops slowly until the pressure stabilizes.
> 
> Update: I reached out to MRP over the weekend via email and they got back to me today. The customer service mentioned in all 11 pages of this thread didn't disappoint as they believe they know what is wrong and have requested I send the fork in for repairs.
> Yes, there will be some downtime on the bike but I am very excited to get the fork back and experience what i've only read about.


Man, I wanted to like these forks so bad. I even bought 3 of them, one a coil. All 3 felt great at first, then after anywhere from 20-50 hours, they all developed a stiction that never got better. I even gave one to a buddy, he sent it to them, got it back and gave it back to me to try after they did all kinds of stuff to it. Still felt like crappy. Small, cool-seeming company but they just never worked for me, no plushness whatsoever.


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## crashthenet44 (Aug 12, 2013)

Stupid question. Going to be doing a travel change on my Ribbon Air 29 from 130mm to 160mm. I assume I'm just removing all spacers and reassembling without them?


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## lazarus2405 (Jul 16, 2011)

I'm adding a second Ribbon to my stable! I love the Coil so much on my enduro bike I'm putting an Air on my new hardtail.

Now, my question is, what happens with offset when I mix and match the uppers and lowers?

Ribbon Coil 27.5 170mm 44mm offset (SN starts with 7)
Ribbon Air 29 160mm 41mm offset (SN starts with 5)

Say if I wanted to try the coil at 29" by running 27.5 uppers+29 lowers at 160mm, would I end up with a 46mm offset? And on the air-sprung 29er uppers+27.5 lowers would I be at 39mm? (That would be assuming the 39mm/41mm forks are made with less offset in the CSU and common lowers castings with the 44mm/46mm forks, respectively?)


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

crashthenet44 said:


> Stupid question. Going to be doing a travel change on my Ribbon Air 29 from 130mm to 160mm. I assume I'm just removing all spacers and reassembling without them?


Yes

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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Who's running their coil Ribbon without the heat shrink? It seemed like a *thing* a while back to reduce stichion.

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## attaboy (Apr 4, 2008)

kerpoise said:


> Who's running their coil Ribbon without the heat shrink? It seemed like a *thing* a while back to reduce stichion.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


Where did u read/hear about this? Curious not criticizing.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

attaboy said:


> Where did u read/hear about this? Curious not criticizing.


In this thread! Back in 2018 I think.

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## foggnm (Aug 17, 2015)

That's just packaging. Remove it.


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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

*Clunk the first 5% of travel*

So this has been going on for a little while. I have a Ribbon air and when the LSC is halfway closed to full closed I'm getting a clunk and the fork feels like it stops for a second then continues through the travel. I emailed MRP on Sunday, pending a response. I added a vid, sound on. Any ideas?

Both chambers are empty for demonstration purposes and this is with the LSC fully closed. Even when it's fully open riding makes the clunk. At first I thought my headset was loose.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d7ETqu8e4xj6EXoPGnH_Hj_8CNPohMsg/view?usp=sharing


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> Who's running their coil Ribbon without the heat shrink? It seemed like a *thing* a while back to reduce stichion.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


It doesn't make a difference, other than noise. It will clang around inside the stanchion without the shrink wrap. There's no reduction in stiction.

I removed mine because I wanted to be able to install the springs from the top without dropping the lowers. It was nice for a while, but eventually the noise got irritating and I wasn't swapping springs anymore, so I had them put the heat shrink back in when it went back for service.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

jamiep said:


> So this has been going on for a little while. I have a Ribbon air and when the LSC is halfway closed to full closed I'm getting a clunk and the fork feels like it stops for a second then continues through the travel. I emailed MRP on Sunday, pending a response. I added a vid, sound on. Any ideas?
> 
> Both chambers are empty for demonstration purposes and this is with the LSC fully closed. Even when it's fully open riding makes the clunk. At first I thought my headset was loose.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d7ETqu8e4xj6EXoPGnH_Hj_8CNPohMsg/view?usp=sharing


I didn't hear anything, but from looks I'd guess air in the damper? Now when you mention it seems like mine does too in fully closed or 1 click out but I'm sure it's not air as i bled recently.

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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

You can hear the noise better the last half when I turn the LSC side towards the camera. Also if you look kinda close you can see where it just "hits a hard spot". My wife's is totally fine, so there is definitely something going on.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

jamiep said:


> You can hear the noise better the last half when I turn the LSC side towards the camera. Also if you look kinda close you can see where it just "hits a hard spot". My wife's is totally fine, so there is definitely something going on.


Yeah, that looks like air in the damper to me. Needs a bleed!

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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

Bleed? There was zero air in either chamber, I am not aware of this bleeding of the damper. Is there air trapped someplace that the shock pump wouldn't bleed off? I'd love to fix it!


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

jamiep said:


> Bleed? There was zero air in either chamber, I am not aware of this bleeding if the air chamber. I'd love to fix it though!


It's not the air side what we suggest.
Rather the damper, the damper is full of oil which then circulates through the damper, if however there is a tiny portion of air that somehow got in there, this has very little resistance as air compresses much easier than oil would (or wouldn't compress at all) and that causes the clunk.
Bleed =get that air off the damper

A sign that this is the case : after compressing the fork few times deeper, it goes away =air has mixed into the oil and isn't noticeable now

Here's what to do : 



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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

romulin said:


> It's not the air side what we suggest.
> Rather the damper, the damper is full of oil which then circulates through the damper, if however there is a tiny portion of air that somehow got in there, this has very little resistance as air compresses much easier than oil would (or wouldn't compress at all) and that causes the clunk.
> Bleed =get that air off the damper
> 
> ...


Yeah I just watched a another video regarding the bleed. Seems like special tools are required.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

jamiep said:


> Yeah I just watched a another video regarding the bleed. Seems like special tools are required.


Yep. And if you got air in there once, chances are it'll happen again. You're probably just due for a service.


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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

ungod said:


> Yep. And if you got air in there once, chances are it'll happen again. You're probably just due for a service.


MRP got back to me, they suggest the damper bleed as well. Good troubleshooting guys. Thanks.

I'm 3 months out of warranty so I guess I'll head up to Dirt Labs and get it serviced.


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## CharacterZero (May 19, 2004)

jamiep said:


> MRP got back to me, they suggest the damper bleed as well. Good troubleshooting guys. Thanks.
> 
> I'm 3 months out of warranty so I guess I'll head up to Dirt Labs and get it serviced.


Service intervals are contingent upon ride time, and you should likely see several services before a warranty runs out. Warranty doesn't cover service, much like your brand-new-car's warranty covers defects but not oil changes.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

CharacterZero said:


> Service intervals are contingent upon ride time, and you should likely see several services before a warranty runs out. Warranty doesn't cover service, much like your brand-new-car's warranty covers defects but not oil changes.


Yep, and I definitely recommend changing the lowers oil often on the Ribbon. It feels more dependent on a good oil than other forks.

Just switched to 20wt Pukoline. And it's so buttery smooth. Feels like a really good sticky oil. Very similar to Fox's Molybdenum 20wt Gold. But about 1/10th of the price!

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## AmericanTemplar (Mar 26, 2010)

PSA: if you're feeling notchiness/stiction, harshness, and like you're not getting much travel, try pressing the PSST valves. I had quite a bit of air come out of one side and the fork feels so much better now!


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## jamiep (Jul 10, 2009)

CharacterZero said:


> Service intervals are contingent upon ride time, and you should likely see several services before a warranty runs out. Warranty doesn't cover service, much like your brand-new-car's warranty covers defects but not oil changes.


Figured I'd post an update since i just got the fork back from Dirtlabs.

Per Dirtlabs
"Tech note: Fork came in with a dead spot in the top of the
travel. The inner damper tube was unthreading causing
this issue. Tightened the inner damper tube and did
service."

I bought this last March, 4 months into owning it, I sent it back to MRP to get bushing work done since it felt horrible. I got it back and it felt buttery smooth. Fast forward, winter happened then Covid happened. All I'm saying there wasn't/isn't a lot of hours on this thing.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Anyone tried Push low friction seal on Ribbon? I got a set and was wondering if they’re worth the hassle. 

Thanks


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

jamiep said:


> Figured I'd post an update since i just got the fork back from Dirtlabs.
> 
> Per Dirtlabs
> "Tech note: Fork came in with a dead spot in the top of the
> ...


Exactly what happened to mine.

The rod unthreaded , it looked like it was missing threadlock.

I'd actually forgotten about that.

My Ribbon has been broken far longer than I've been able to ride it! I hope im just unlucky, but my Stage has been back three times for warranty, and it now can't release air!

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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Does anyone have a knock from their Ribbon, in the damper leg when holding the brake and rocking the fork back and forward? 

It's the same feeling you get when the bushings are dry on a fork, but a little more pronounced. 

Turning the bike upside down for a minute helps, which makes me think it's a problem with the lowers oil not sticking to the bushings, or the bushings not being sized correctly.

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## AcidLegs (Aug 9, 2017)

kerpoise said:


> Does anyone have a knock from their Ribbon, in the damper leg when holding the brake and rocking the fork back and forward?
> 
> It's the same feeling you get when the bushings are dry on a fork, but a little more pronounced.
> 
> Turning the bike upside down for a minute helps, which makes me think it's a problem with the lowers oil not sticking to the bushings, or the bushings not being sized correctly.


I've had a knock from the damper, but only when it needed to be bled. Bleeding the damper took care of the knock and it hasn't returned.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

AcidLegs said:


> I've had a knock from the damper, but only when it needed to be bled. Bleeding the damper took care of the knock and it hasn't returned.


I don't think it's the damper that needs bleeding, as it's knocking when rocking the fork, rather than lifting the fork up, or compressing it slightly.

Its also not long come back from warranty repair, and damper bleed!

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## Corvairjo (Jul 15, 2020)

*Rebound knob stuck*

A few days ago I realized that my rebound knob was stuck. I could not turn it by hand, rather needed pliers. And it made a nasty crunchy sound. So removed the screw at the bottom of the damper leg. I could still not turn the achsle which goes through the screw. Then I disassembled the screw/ achsle assembly and found that the two balls, the spring and the bore in which those sit was rusty and grimy. The o-rings which seal to the rebound knob appear to be good.

I could give those parts a good clean and assemble them with grease, so it works fine again.

Has anyone experienced that before? Is this an area for regular maintenance?


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Anyone know what this is? Just dropped the lowers to change my spring and this was attached to the bottom of my damper stanchion. It's only just come back from warranty repair that took 6 months!!!

My first thought was part of a bushing, but I can't see any damage to them, and no other parts.









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## Corvairjo (Jul 15, 2020)

This might be a plastic spacer to adjust the travel.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Corvairjo said:


> This might be a plastic spacer to adjust the travel.


That would be on the air spring side - but the coil Ribbon doesn't have travel adjust spacers.

I'm almost certain it's the bush from the IFP on the damper rod. Hopefully the guys at MRP / ISON can sort me out a new bushing and I can just fit it myself.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Just pulled the lowers off and released the seal head from the damper rod. It's definitely the norglide bush from the be of the damper rod.

Does anyone have the specs for the bush? Looks like a really easy fix.

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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Is there somewhere manual for how to remove damper for service for Ribbon? I just couldn’t find it. 

Thanks


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Is there somewhere manual for how to remove damper for service for Ribbon? I just couldn't find it.
> 
> Thanks


Email MRP's support. They'll have a doc they can send you.

And just an update on my Ribbon coil, after a few problems - it's all working spot on now. At 80kg, I'm running a soft spring, 3 clicks from max ramp, 4 turns of preload, 4 clicks of LSC from open.

Ridden it at the Golfie, and local muddy steepness.

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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

kerpoise said:


> Yep, same for me too. I've probably 30-40 hours of riding on mine, so it's way off the 200 recommended for the damper bleed though.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


I have the air, but same thing. I have a very distinct knock when LSC is maxed and general travel doesn't feel great. Less than 400mi on this. Frustrating.

Any resources to bleed a damper? I saw a video on YT by MRP...doesnt look like a home project without their special tools and I don't have a dealer anywhere close to me.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

WoodstockMTB said:


> I have the air, but same thing. I have a very distinct knock when LSC is maxed and general travel doesn't feel great. Less than 400mi on this. Frustrating.
> 
> Any resources to bleed a damper? I saw a video on YT by MRP...doesnt look like a home project without their special tools and I don't have a dealer anywhere close to me.


I had the same knock. Right at the start of travel, but went away once the damper got into its stroke. Took them two tries to fix, but now my LSC has a smaller range. Full on used to be nearly locked out, now it's just kinda firm. Not big deal for my riding (I'm light), but could be a big problem for someone else.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

the knock means the damper has air in it

If you get the cup and bleed it (which is easy but quite messy because it involves literally spilling oil over the sides of the fork), you'll notice a bunch of air is gathered at the top of the cylinder. 

With LSC turned up, as the damper moves thru its travel, oil pushes the air up, and the knock is when the oil reaches the top and the damper actually starts working (starts forcing oil thru the circuit rather than just moving air, so you feel the LSC kick in).

When you use the fork a bit, it foams up and that's why the damper still works decently.

As far as I can tell, from my own experiences and from watching instagram videos of a certain MRP sponsored rider constantly bleeding his Ribbon, this is a common issue. Mine holds a bleed for about 3 rides at this point before I have to do it over again, and that's with fresh seals in all the places I can access without fully tearing down the damper (it happened a few months after I got the fork, and then reappeared a few weeks after it came back from factory service for that issue).

It's too bad, because its a pretty nice fork otherwise.


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## WoodstockMTB (Oct 5, 2010)

So, am I mistaken to think the issue is eliminated if I convert the air to coil?


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## vikb (Sep 7, 2008)

WoodstockMTB said:


> So, am I mistaken to think the issue is eliminated if I convert the air to coil?


The damper doesn't change regardless of whether spring is air or coil.


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## olslash (Jun 10, 2011)

WoodstockMTB said:


> So, am I mistaken to think the issue is eliminated if I convert the air to coil?


yeah it's like vikb said. mine's a coil


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

I've only gotten air into damper when I unscrewed the Rebound screw out of the damper rod. May have done a bad job bleeding cause I have some now but doesn't seem to be increasing by itself. Can't tell other than almost closed compression 

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## radam25 (Jun 17, 2010)

romulin said:


> I've only gotten air into damper when I unscrewed the Rebound screw out of the damper rod. May have done a bad job bleeding cause I have some now but doesn't seem to be increasing by itself. Can't tell other than almost closed compression
> 
> Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


I've had the same thing happen, or maybe it was on reassembly. For me the issue was I got bit confused by steps 4a and 15b of the air spring service doc.

In step 4a it says 
"If the removal knob is not used, turn the rebound to the full slow position (clockwise) before removing the redknob. Remove the red rebound knob and set aside. Use a 10mm open end wrench and unthread the damper screw,the rebound needle will unthread to the end ofthe damper rod as the damper screw unthreads. Feel for the threads ofthe damper screw to release from the rod, and then pull the damper screw straight out of the rebound needle. Therebound needle will now be flush with the end of the damper rod. Use the3mm hex key to turn the rebound needleback down into place. Tighten until firm resistance is encountered, then back off by half a turn."

Then in step 15b during reassembly it says
"if the rebound removal knob is not used, before installing the screw use the 3 mm hex key to screw the reboundneedle inside the damper rod until it is near the end of the damper rod. Use a cotton swab to wick away any oiltrapped in the socket of the rebound needle. Insert the key of the damper screw into the socket of the rebound needleand thread the screw into the rod.Tighten the screw to 75 inch-lbs (8.5 Nm)"

No matter how many times I read it, I can't quite picture exactly what it supposed to be happening, and the tech videos seem to gloss over this.

Can anyone better explain or show it with pics/drawings/videos?

Also, does anyone know if the detent balls used under the compression knob are standard size ball bearing that would be likely to be found at the hardware store? Before I did my last service, I ordered up a pair, figuring there was a good chance I'd lose one. Well, I lost both and am now hesitant to do another damper bleed without extras on hand.


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

radam25 said:


> I've had the same thing happen, or maybe it was on reassembly. For me the issue was I got bit confused by steps 4a and 15b of the air spring service doc.
> 
> In step 4a it says
> "If the removal knob is not used, turn the rebound to the full slow position (clockwise) before removing the redknob. Remove the red rebound knob and set aside. Use a 10mm open end wrench and unthread the damper screw,the rebound needle will unthread to the end ofthe damper rod as the damper screw unthreads. Feel for the threads ofthe damper screw to release from the rod, and then pull the damper screw straight out of the rebound needle. Therebound needle will now be flush with the end of the damper rod. Use the3mm hex key to turn the rebound needleback down into place. Tighten until firm resistance is encountered, then back off by half a turn."
> ...


 Basically, if you just unscrew the damper screw without keeping the rebound needle from unscrewing along with it with the removal knob, depending on its initial position it could possibly unscrew too far and let air in to he rebound circuit. I dont have the removal knob, what I do is first turn the rebound fully in clockwise, then rmove the rebound adjustment knob. Then I carefully hold the little thing on the end of the damper screw that the knob was locked onto with needle nose pliers or vice grips to keep it from turning while i unscrew the damper screw with an open end or box wrench. This should keep the needle deep inside. You can visually check after the damper screw is off. For reassembly, i unscrew the rebound needle witha 3 mm allen key until it comes close to the end of the threads, leaving just a few threads for the damper screw to grab on to. Do not unscrew it farther than this. Then i twist up the corner of a paper towel so its like an absorbent pipe cleaner and push it up into the allen hole in the rebound needle to blot away any oil-be diligent with this if oil is trapped in there it well mess with your rebound adjustment. Also clean any oil pooled areound the threads at end of the rebound shaft and the hole in the lowers it goes in to. Then you can screw the damper screw back on to reattach to the lowers, dont need to hold the end with pliers now. then put the adjustment knob back on, turn all the way clockwise, compress fork a few times to make sure it returns super slow but smoothly at that setting so you know theres no air in there, then set to desired setting.


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## manuni88 (May 4, 2018)

Kombinat.PL said:


> Anyone tried Push low friction seal on Ribbon? I got a set and was wondering if they're worth the hassle.
> 
> Thanks


Did you ever try it? I'm interested in them myself.


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## Ktom300 (Feb 29, 2012)

I bought a used ribbon coil freshly serviced by dirt labs and was very happy with it for the first few rides. Then it developed a clunk while holding the front brake and rocking the bike. 
I did a lower service and changed the travel, found the heat shrink on the spring was damaged so I swapped in the firm spring to try it out thinking it was the spring clunking. It wasn't.
Anyway I haven't been on but a few rides since because of high temps and smoke but this last outing it appears my LSC has no impact on compression. It used to provide a pretty firm lockout but now there's nothing. 
I don't really feel like sending it in again but need to sort it out. I'm more of a DIY guy but hate buying specialized tools all the time. Anyone have a bleed cup they want to sell? 
Any idea why LSC is no longer working? Bike is always stored wheels down.. Thanks


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

Ktom300 said:


> I bought a used ribbon coil freshly serviced by dirt labs and was very happy with it for the first few rides. Then it developed a clunk while holding the front brake and rocking the bike.
> I did a lower service and changed the travel, found the heat shrink on the spring was damaged so I swapped in the firm spring to try it out thinking it was the spring clunking. It wasn't.
> Anyway I haven't been on but a few rides since because of high temps and smoke but this last outing it appears my LSC has no impact on compression. It used to provide a pretty firm lockout but now there's nothing.
> I don't really feel like sending it in again but need to sort it out. I'm more of a DIY guy but hate buying specialized tools all the time. Anyone have a bleed cup they want to sell?
> Any idea why LSC is no longer working? Bike is always stored wheels down.. Thanks


Likely you accidentally unwound the compression screw that sits in the compression rod when taking the lowers off.

This can let air in.

If the LSC isn't working, the damper needs a bleed. Sorry bud.

I've also got the clunk when rocking the fork, I'm almost certain it's the bushings being a little too slack and the lowers oil not staying between the stanchion and the bushing.

Popping the bike upside down, so the oil migrates back up to the foam rings and over the bushings will fix it for like one descent.

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## Ktom300 (Feb 29, 2012)

Thanks, guess I'll look into the bleed tool. The video isn't real specific during these steps as others have mentioned.


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## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

*Negative chamber leaking air into the positive and lowers.*

I have a 2018 MRP Ribbon Air 27.5. In 2019 I wrecked the right stanchion and sent it back to MRP where they replaced it. It had about 120 hrs on it. They performed a full service and sent it back to me. Since then after about 20 hours of riding the fork starts to top out a lot and I have to keep increasing the rebound. I can let air out of the left bleed valve every ride. It gets harsh and generally feels bad. I was growing increasingly frustrated with the forks characteristics no matter what settings I tried. It didn't feel the same as when it was new.

In the summer of 2020 I had put about 80 more hours on the Ribbon. I talked with the guys at Traillabs and they had me perform a few tests. I emptied the fork, then inflated the positive, then the negative. I put the digital pump back on the positive and it has more air pressure than when I started. I can also let air out of the bleed valve after a few compressions of the fork. They said this indicated the negative chamber leaks. The Traillabs guys did a full service and said they could fix it.

It worked great for about 25 hours and I started to get a little top out during climbing. So I used Traillabs little test and I am having the same issue again. It really wrecks the ride of the fork. It has the new Chocoluxe IFP's and works perfectly for about 20hrs. Also when it came back from Traillabs the Ramp Control knob spins both directions endlessly. The guys at Traillabs have stopped responding to my questions.

Any thoughts or similar experiences? I have an email into MRP, have not heard back. Not sure I want to spend another $150 on a rebuild plus shipping that will only work for 20-30hours.


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## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

foggnm said:


> Sometimes a particular fork just doesn't give us what we're looking for even with a lot of tuning. I'm in the camp of if I can't get it to ride nearly perfect in a month, it isn't for me. I love mrp as a company (owned 3 of their forks) but last year switched to one of the big brands most popular Enduro fork and it just blows me away on its capabilities from trail to park. AND it is so easy service. If you had a suspension company work on your fork and your setting are in the ballpark recommend by weight and you still don't love it....try something else. Riding has so much to do with confidence and when you love the way your fork/suspension feels....it only makes the experience better. Don't second guess yourself.


I am heading back to one of the bigger companies. Also considering DVO and the Helm MK 2. I really love my Ribbon when it works well.


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## manuni88 (May 4, 2018)

wilsonblur said:


> I have a 2018 MRP Ribbon Air 27.5. In 2019 I wrecked the right stanchion and sent it back to MRP where they replaced it. It had about 120 hrs on it. They performed a full service and sent it back to me. Since then after about 20 hours of riding the fork starts to top out a lot and I have to keep increasing the rebound. I can let air out of the left bleed valve every ride. It gets harsh and generally feels bad. I was growing increasingly frustrated with the forks characteristics no matter what settings I tried. It didn't feel the same as when it was new.
> 
> In the summer of 2020 I had put about 80 more hours on the Ribbon. I talked with the guys at Traillabs and they had me perform a few tests. I emptied the fork, then inflated the positive, then the negative. I put the digital pump back on the positive and it has more air pressure than when I started. I can also let air out of the bleed valve after a few compressions of the fork. They said this indicated the negative chamber leaks. The Traillabs guys did a full service and said they could fix it.
> 
> It worked great for about 25 hours and I started to get a little top out during climbing. So I used Traillabs little test and I am having the same issue again. It really wrecks the ride of the fork. It has the new Chocoluxe IFP's and works perfectly for about 20hrs. Also when it came back from Traillabs the Ramp Control knob spins both directions endlessly. The guys at Traillabs have stopped responding to my questions.


First, it shouldn't be abnormal for an increase of pressure in the positive chamber after adding air to the negative chamber. 
There is no force countering the positive chamber until AFTER you add air to the negative chamber. When you add air (volume) to the negative chamber you're decreasing volume in the positive which will increase pressure.

Second, the ramp control spinning freely should separate issues from you being able to blow out air from the pressure relief valves. I don't know whats going on there but I would assume its a faulty ramp control.

If the negative chamber is leaking into the lowers then it could mean the snap ring is not seated properly, allowing air to pass. Idk what Traillabs did but its really easy check that the air shaft is properly greased and is secured when doing a lower service.


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## polarflux (Jul 21, 2007)

You might just simply try and tighten the foot nut on the air spring some more. Just a bit. You could also pull the foot nut and slather some heavy grease on it which will help seal the neg air. Do not tighten too much. In the meantime, request some of the small footnut O ring seals. These get shredded installing and removing the foot nut from the fork for service and if they are shredded the negative air spring will leak. I've dealt with this several times but have had a super stable neg air spring after replacing the O rings.


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## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

manuni88 said:


> First, it shouldn't be abnormal for an increase of pressure in the positive chamber after adding air to the negative chamber.
> There is no force countering the positive chamber until AFTER you add air to the negative chamber. When you add air (volume) to the negative chamber you're decreasing volume in the positive which will increase pressure.
> 
> Second, the ramp control spinning freely should separate issues from you being able to blow out air from the pressure relief valves. I don't know whats going on there but I would assume its a faulty ramp control.
> ...


Thanks, that makes sense on the negative adding negative pressure decreases volume and increases pressure. Sometiems its just a few psi and sometimes as much at 10psi with the same amount in the negative. It wasn't just Traillabs, it also came back from MRP like this once too. I should be able to get more than 20-30 hours of riding out of a service before it starts acting up. I can pull it apart again.

When the Ramp Control reaches its mechanical stop the whole unit spins inside the stanchion. I know its a separate issue. I appreciate the response.


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## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

polarflux said:


> You might just simply try and tighten the foot nut on the air spring some more. Just a bit. You could also pull the foot nut and slather some heavy grease on it which will help seal the neg air. Do not tighten too much. In the meantime, request some of the small footnut O ring seals. These get shredded installing and removing the foot nut from the fork for service and if they are shredded the negative air spring will leak. I've dealt with this several times but have had a super stable neg air spring after replacing the O rings.


Thanks, its worth a shot.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

There’s two fat o-rings that sit in the Ribbon Coil lowers and I think Ribbon Air. One is a bottom out bumper that sits in the lowest bushing near the hole on the damper side. Where does the other one go? There’s no bushing on the spring side and the service manager at MRP said that it’s not supposed to go in there so I’m at a loss.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Pics? I have 2 Ribbon Coils and work on my friends. Hopefully I can help.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

I do not unfortunately. That would have been too smart for me. The o-ring OD is a little smaller than the lowers’ ID and the thickness is about 3/16” (what is that 4.5mm or so?).


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

I've done multiple lower legs services and damper bleeds on on several Ribbons, coil and air and have never seen an o-ring in the lowers. My conclusion is it doesn't belong.


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## wilsonblur (Dec 23, 2003)

wilsonblur said:


> I have a 2018 MRP Ribbon Air 27.5. In 2019 I wrecked the right stanchion and sent it back to MRP where they replaced it. It had about 120 hrs on it. They performed a full service and sent it back to me. Since then after about 20 hours of riding the fork starts to top out a lot and I have to keep increasing the rebound. I can let air out of the left bleed valve every ride. It gets harsh and generally feels bad. I was growing increasingly frustrated with the forks characteristics no matter what settings I tried. It didn't feel the same as when it was new.
> 
> In the summer of 2020 I had put about 80 more hours on the Ribbon. I talked with the guys at Traillabs and they had me perform a few tests. I emptied the fork, then inflated the positive, then the negative. I put the digital pump back on the positive and it has more air pressure than when I started. I can also let air out of the bleed valve after a few compressions of the fork. They said this indicated the negative chamber leaks. The Traillabs guys did a full service and said they could fix it.
> 
> ...


UPDATE
MRP sent me an RA to work on the fork. They found that the people who did the last service put the wrong O ring on the Ramp Control causing it to not have enough friction to make solid contact. They also found one of the O rings on the cap was damage. They put a new air shaft in to fix the issues I was having with air bleeding into the lowers. Nice work MRP. Thanks for the great service. Sounds like the folks who did my last service missed some things.


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## manuni88 (May 4, 2018)

wilsonblur said:


> UPDATE
> MRP sent me an RA to work on the fork. They found that the people who did the last service put the wrong O ring on the Ramp Control causing it to not have enough friction to make solid contact. They also found one of the O rings on the cap was damage. They put a new air shaft in to fix the issues I was having with air bleeding into the lowers. Nice work MRP. Thanks for the great service. Sounds like the folks who did my last service missed some things.


Awesome! Glad it worked out.


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## Masberg (Feb 24, 2018)

Is it allowed to use a 223mm rotor with the Ribbon?


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## milehi (Nov 2, 1997)

Masberg said:


> Is it allowed to use a 223mm rotor with the Ribbon?


203mm with the correct adapter. I'm running a 203 Hope rotor with a Shimano adapter.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Are these things really progressive in the 160mm setting? I have to land nose heavy off of a weird/janky local drop to use most of the travel and I still have about 10mm left. Most of the rougher runs around here still leave 30mm according to the o-ring. 160mm 27.5 2020 ribbon air, compression open, ramp open, rebound about 12 clicks I believe. 45 psi positive, 52 psi negative, rider weight 170 lbs. Definitely feels rough at speed although that could be the damper (which I see some colorful commentary on). I was previously using a 150mm Pike with a Luftkappe that consistently used a fair amount more travel, which I thought was already a pretty progressive air spring.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Anyone had any communication with MRP tec/warranty (Eric specifically) recently? I contacted them a couple weeks about fixing an issue that my fork has already been back to them for twice and after an initial response it's now silence despite follow ups.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

I got silence after the last couple emails as well. Not sure what's up.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Strange, they've always been pretty responsive in the past. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. This is the third time I've been stuck with an effectively non-functional fork. It's been weeks now and will likely be another bit with xmas and new years. 

Fork always had a hard top out and the neg air needed fairly frequent checking to keep it riding correctly. Now it drops from 78 to 50ish within one downhill section (rapid cycling). Seems like there was always a seal issue which was never corrected and now it's pretty much totally failed. Previous attempted solutions were a damper bleed/rebuild (which it got under warranty, twice) and changing the top out bumper. I think I got a lemon, this thing has been one issue after another. Felt pretty dang good when new and for the first few rides after a service though!


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

kiotae said:


> Strange, they've always been pretty responsive in the past. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. This is the third time I've been stuck with an effectively non-functional fork. It's been weeks now and will likely be another bit with xmas and new years.
> 
> Fork always had a hard top out and the neg air needed fairly frequent checking to keep it riding correctly. Now it drops from 78 to 50ish within one downhill section (rapid cycling). Seems like there was always a seal issue which was never corrected and now it's pretty much totally failed. Previous attempted solutions were a damper bleed/rebuild (which it got under warranty, twice) and changing the top out bumper. I think I got a lemon, this thing has been one issue after another. Felt pretty dang good when new and for the first few rides after a service though!


So is it about air spring?.
I've got a spare air spring laying around. You can have it for shipping cost, might wanna put your bottom out bumper there, mine is a little torn.

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

B. Rock said:


> Are these things really progressive in the 160mm setting? I have to land nose heavy off of a weird/janky local drop to use most of the travel and I still have about 10mm left. Most of the rougher runs around here still leave 30mm according to the o-ring. 160mm 27.5 2020 ribbon air, compression open, ramp open, rebound about 12 clicks I believe. 45 psi positive, 52 psi negative, rider weight 170 lbs. Definitely feels rough at speed although that could be the damper (which I see some colorful commentary on). I was previously using a 150mm Pike with a Luftkappe that consistently used a fair amount more travel, which I thought was already a pretty progressive air spring.


Hmm, I don't think they are too progressive. But I also like to never bottom out, running some ramp tho.
I don't know exactly but i might be at around 68 psi main 70 neg. At 180 lbs 170mm.Fork felt best so far since I have it ,as someone recommended here in not going more than +2 in negative. I've gone up on the pressures since found out my sock pump is off by about 7 psi and now with motorex oil (that you sure have in 2020 fork) it seems much more active on bumps. If anything I would think your pressures are too low.
Could it be the extra negative pressure you have there is creating that ramp? I've once tested like +10 main from usual and negative +8 above that pressure and I know i would never be able to bottom out. Maybe lower your negative and try?

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

I just got some motorex to try out, we'll see how that goes. I will try either equal pressure or +2 pressure in the negative - it isn't terribly supply over small bumps but I'm hoping the fresh oil can remedy that.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

I did a damper bleed on mine using Maxima 5wt fork oil and it is plusher. I think MRP used Torco in my fork. Which Motorex oil are you guys using?


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

There was a ribbon thread somewhere on here where Noah said they updated the spec to Motorex 10wt fork oil. 

I did think about trying some lighter oil in the damper, could be worth a shot before swapping forks. I have a buddy saying I should really rent a shockwiz to better understand if it's the fork performance or the setup, although I usually have a good handle on these things.


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Cool, thanks for the info. Guess I missed that thread on the change to Motorex. I know that Noah has mentioned trying a lighter oil is worth a shot for lighter riders. I'm fairly light at 155 lbs soaking wet. The Maxima 5wt made my Ribbon feel better and supple.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

I'm not much heavier so that's good feedback.


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

ScottieM8 said:


> I did a damper bleed on mine using Maxima 5wt fork oil and it is plusher. I think MRP used Torco in my fork. Which Motorex oil are you guys using?


Sorry i was talking about lowers bath oil. That is the motorex 10w?if I'm not mistaken.
That is what they spec now at MRP

I've got fox 5wt in the damper which is probably close to stock torco

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## ScottieM8 (Apr 3, 2015)

Thanks for the clarification. Yeah, I was talking about damper oil. For bath oil, been using Fox 20 gold for awhile and feel the difference.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

romulin said:


> So is it about air spring?.
> I've got a spare air spring laying around. You can have it for shipping cost, might wanna put your bottom out bumper there, mine is a little torn.
> 
> Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


Just saw this, I wasn't getting thread alerts. I'm 99% sure that a bad air spring is causing the current issue. I'm guessing that it maybe had a defective o-ring from the start that's gotten progressively worse before finally failing. Super generous offer on your part and I'll happily take you up on it if it still stands and shipping isn't crazy for some reason. I'll dm you.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Are there any happy ribbon owners in here? I can't decide if I want to keep chasing tuning this thing, or just getting a 36. I demo'd a bike with a 36 and thought it felt great so I'm bummed that it's so tough to get the ribbon anywhere close.


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## GiddyHitch (Dec 1, 2009)

B. Rock said:


> Are there any happy ribbon owners in here? I can't decide if I want to keep chasing tuning this thing, or just getting a 36. I demo'd a bike with a 36 and thought it felt great so I'm bummed that it's so tough to get the ribbon anywhere close.


I'm curious about this as well as I prepare to send my Coil in for a factory assessment of my small bump stiction issues. In terms of replacement, I'm not convinced that a 36 wouldn't be without issues as well and would go with a Mezzer at this point.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

GiddyHitch said:


> I'm curious about this as well as I prepare to send my Coil in for a factory assessment of my small bump stiction issues. In terms of replacement, I'm not convinced that a 36 wouldn't be without issues as well and would go with a Mezzer at this point.


I'm pretty sure I'm replacing mine with a Mezzer as well. Gonna try to fix the air spring issue first, but that still leaves a few other things I'm not happy about. Tired of the constant downtime.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Yeah, the IRT in the Mezzer looks great - I just know I demo'd a performance elite 36 and it felt great, and can likely find one of those pretty cheap in comparison.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

I'm looking at it mostly from the standpoint that I can do more service on it myself. From what I can tell, any of the forks at that end of the spectrum would have plenty of performance to make me happy. I'd even consider a bomber z2 except that I can get a deal on a Mezzer, RS or Cane Creek. I was reasonably happy with how my Ribbon rode when working properly, but that only lasts about 10-20 hours after a service.


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## rustyspoke (Oct 14, 2016)

Sounds like I am in the minority here but I have been very happy with the ribbon air. I had a Lyric that I just couldn’t get to feel right, would feel harsh if I had the correct sag (20%to25%) and too much sag I would blow through the travel. I have found the ribbon allows me to tune the ride characteristics that I was looking for, Small bump sensitivity with good mid travel support. Plus be able to take the big hits without a harsh bottom out. 180 geared up ready to ride, 73 psi in the positive and 78 in the negative. Rebound I believe is 8 clicks from fully open. It’s set to 150mm of travel, purchased new about 6months ago.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

rustyspoke said:


> Sounds like I am in the minority here but I have been very happy with the ribbon air. I had a Lyric that I just couldn't get to feel right, would feel harsh if I had the correct sag (20%to25%) and too much sag I would blow through the travel. I have found the ribbon allows me to tune the ride characteristics that I was looking for, Small bump sensitivity with good mid travel support. Plus be able to take the big hits without a harsh bottom out. 180 geared up ready to ride, 73 psi in the positive and 78 in the negative. Rebound I believe is 8 clicks from fully open. It's set to 150mm of travel, purchased new about 6months ago.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think there are plenty of happy owners out there. The unhappy owners of anything are typically the most vocal.


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## MoreLowGears (Jan 1, 2021)

I bought a used MRP Ribbon earlier this year for a Stumpjumper 6fattie build. Upon receipt I removed the lowers to convert it to 150mm travel, cleaned the lowers, replaced the bath oil, and put everything back together which was pretty straightforward since I had the tools. The damping worked fine but there was a ton of stiction despite the seller claiming it had "just been serviced." Spoiler: no, it hadn't. Like, I could lean on my handlebars from a standing position with LSC disabled and the fork wouldn't move. I shipped it to MRP for a rebuild and ChocoLux upgrade for $183 + shipping and handling. They charged a $12 "handling" fee that wasn't in the original quote.

The fork that returned felt completely different. Much, much lower stiction. It felt smooth riding it up and down curbs around the neighborhood. I'm new to mountain biking so I don't have anything to compare it to, and I'm currently waiting on other parts to come back from service so I haven't ridden it much yet.

My main issue with it is the bolt-on axle. The endcap starts to spin in place before I can tighten the axle fully, and I need an 8mm allen wrench to hold it in place. I almost got stuck at the trail once when I was unable to remove my front wheel because I forgot my 8mm wrench.



B. Rock said:


> I did think about trying some lighter oil in the damper, could be worth a shot before swapping forks. I have a buddy saying I should really rent a shockwiz to better understand if it's the fork performance or the setup, although I usually have a good handle on these things.


The Shockwiz isn't compatible with Ramp Control, because Ramp Control varies the size of the air chamber in a way that complicates the relationship between spring travel and air pressure.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

I have the bolt on axle and have no issues with the nut spinning - might need a retorque?

2 things on the damper: I'd be curious to remove the ramp control and basically make it a Raven and see how that felt, or at least be able to use a shockwiz to confirm what exactly isn't playing nice at high speeds. I'll be giving them a call to set if I can order that separately.

Secondly, I think ride monkey may have died with Bike mag but this has my curiosity: Ribbon damper mod, anyone?

I think being able to dial in hsc would help a lot of folks.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

B. Rock said:


> I have the bolt on axle and have no issues with the nut spinning - might need a retorque?
> 
> 2 things on the damper: I'd be curious to remove the ramp control and basically make it a Raven and see how that felt, or at least be able to use a shockwiz to confirm what exactly isn't playing nice at high speeds. I'll be giving them a call to set if I can order that separately.
> 
> ...


This is my hypothesis as bit as well. There's just too much HSC for most people with the way the ramp works. The best performance I've ever gotten from it was with zero ramp and a bit higher pressures. I'm light, which I also think doesn't help. My experience (when it was working right) has been that it feels nice slow-moderate stuff and single hits. Also works fine when riding at 10/10ths, not smooth per se, but still controlled. Where it struggles for me is the repeated medium hits (root and rock gardens) at "fun fast" speeds, which is likely how most of us ride and why there's such divisive thoughts on it.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I think a lot of Ribbon Air riders would be better served by getting the Raven air cap and running without ramp control at all. It'd be cool if DSD did a Runt for the Ribbon. 

It's been awhile since Ribbon was released, it wouldn't surprise me if MRP isn't working on something new, or potentially a new damper. It needs it.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

GiddyHitch said:


> I'm curious about this as well as I prepare to send my Coil in for a factory assessment of my small bump stiction issues. In terms of replacement, I'm not convinced that a 36 wouldn't be without issues as well and would go with a Mezzer at this point.


That's exactly what I did.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

I have doubts about the Ramp Control. I sometimes wonder if Ribbon Air owners might be better off to just get the Raven air spring setup. It allows you to independently adjust positive and negative pressures, but is a bit more predictable in its action. Lighter too.

I also don't think the floating IFP design of MRP's twin tube dampers are great when the IFP is at point in the fork most susceptible to flex and binding. There is a reason they've spent all this time promoting the benefits of the Chocolux internals. Perhaps they would've been better to move to a design that doesn't hinge on small sliding surfaces being so susceptible to binding that changing their materials results in such an improvement (or not).

The Ohlins Twin-Tube design does not have this floating IFP hanging out below the damper, being smooshed between the rebound shaft and the stanchion walls _right at the upper bushings_.

Bladders aren't perfect but damn, it'd be sweet if MRP took a good hard look at Manitou's new MC2 or DVO's easily tuned modular damper.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

rustyspoke said:


> Sounds like I am in the minority here but I have been very happy with the ribbon air. I had a Lyric that I just couldn't get to feel right, would feel harsh if I had the correct sag (20%to25%) and too much sag I would blow through the travel. I have found the ribbon allows me to tune the ride characteristics that I was looking for, Small bump sensitivity with good mid travel support. Plus be able to take the big hits without a harsh bottom out. 180 geared up ready to ride, 73 psi in the positive and 78 in the negative. Rebound I believe is 8 clicks from fully open. It's set to 150mm of travel, purchased new about 6months ago.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm another happy Ribbon Air owner.
Never had an issue with it. You just need to understand how an air spring work to set it up properly since the pos/neg are set independently. It's not rocket science.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

C-H said:


> I'm another happy Ribbon Air owner.
> Never had an issue with it. You just need to understand how an air spring work to set it up properly since the pos/neg are set independently. It's not rocket science.


Ok. So the multitude of people who have issues with it just don't know how to set the air spring correctly. Sure thing. Definitely the problem.

Glad you like it and got a good one. But it's readily apparent that there are many folks who didn't and being condescending in regards to their issues isn't useful.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

No need to get offended for no reason.
I replied specifically to the post I quoted.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Not offended, but your comment was clearly intended as a dig at those who say the fork rides poorly. Don't try to backtrack that. Quoting another post is irrelevant outside of where you say you're happy with it. 

You're perfectly welcome to like your fork and I'm glad you do but you're clearly bothered by the fact that others are badmouthing a product you like. Folks can share their negative experience here and you can share your positive. Both are valuable/true and neither requires implying the others are idiots. Let's keep it productive and not turn into a PB comment thread.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

kiotae said:


> Not offended, but your comment was clearly intended as a dig at those who say the fork rides poorly. Don't try to backtrack that. Quoting another post is irrelevant outside of where you say you're happy with it.
> 
> You're perfectly welcome to like your fork and I'm glad you do but you're clearly bothered by the fact that others are badmouthing a product you like. Folks can share their negative experience here and you can share your positive. Both are valuable/true and neither requires implying the others are idiots. Let's keep it productive and not turn into a PB comment thread.


Look, are you some kind of self professed guardian of other peoples feelings? You're extrapolating a post way beyond what it was.
It's not a dig and it's not some kind of defense or response to others not being happy. Seriously, drop it.
I haven't even been on the forum for about 4 months.

So for new users or the Ribbon I'd say for setup, start by taking out all compression, rebound damping and no ramp control. Pick the pressure for your body weight as starting point and fill the neg air spring to just about where the fork start to suck down (back off a tiny bit). That'll ensure it's smooth as butter off the top (as in nice small bump compliance).
Ride off a few curbs and set the rebound to where it doesn't bounce and then hit the trail.
Instead of dialing in a ton of compression damping use the ramp control for the chunk. That'll make the fork feel supple of the small bumps and not dive in the chunk. I only dial in compression when it's really needed.
Get your sag setting on the money because it makes a big difference on this fork. The neg air spring is a powerful tool to dial in the feel but beware that a lower pressure in the neg spring relative to the main pos spring will make the fork feel somewhat harsh and lack the butter smooth small bump compliance.
Also. Yes, the damper can be 'noisy' but that is normal and nothing to worry about. It also doesn't hurt to store the fork upside down for a bit every now and then. That'll keep the upper part lubed and smooth.

One key to this fork is that running a lower pressure in the main spring to compensate for not enough pressure in the negative spring to get to your sag point makes the fork really dive bad. It's better to actually run a bit higher pressure than you'd think in the pos spring and add even more in the negative until it actually sucks down a tiny bit. That gives a super smooth ride with great mid stroke support.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

C-H said:


> Look, are you some kind of self professed guardian of other peoples feelings? You're extrapolating a post way beyond what it was.
> It's not a dig and it's not some kind of defense or response to others not being happy. Seriously, drop it.
> I haven't even been on the forum for about 4 months.
> 
> ...


I am not, nor did I claim to be. You clearly intended to take a dig at users having trouble and didn't contribute anything other than "fork good". Own up to it and move on instead of trying to insult me and backtrack. Maybe I was a little harsh in calling you out on it, but if you'd then made a contribution like what you said above, I wouldn't of bothered bringing it up. This is a technical forum on a specific product where folks come to praise, complain, discuss and look for help. I think it's reasonable to ask folks to keep discussion productive.

What you describe as far as set up is EXACTLY what I was talking about as providing something valuable to the thread. Thanks for sharing what helped you get your set up right. I agree with nearly all of it and it touches on what are some set up errors that I agree people make with this fork

MRP initially did a poor job explaining how the ramp control works, which has led a lot of people to set it up in a way that feels terrible. At first (I believe they explain it differently now) they basically told people it worked mostly like tokens in regards to bottom out resistance, but with less of the downsides. What they failed to make clear enough is that it does this by also acting like a high speed air damper. This works fine for landing jumps where the compression is singular and slower. However, as ramp is dialed in in hopes of tuning the end stroke it also really messes with high speed small impacts that happen during the mid stroke, making the fork feel awful. This is compounded by people lowering pressure as they dialed in ramp control as they would of were they adding tokens.

All that said, the issues that many people have had are completely unrelated to the air spring set up. The damper is perfectly fine IMO, (outside of the qc issues) but also isn't on par with other offerings at its price point.


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## C-H (Jan 25, 2018)

"You clearly intended to take a dig at users having trouble..."

Knock it off.


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## ungod (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm pretty sure that somewhere, out there in the forums, some forum user is claiming that their Suntour XC 28 is the best fork you can buy. Anyone who disagrees hasn't gotten theirs set right or taken it off the same sweet jumps.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

ungod said:


> I'm pretty sure that somewhere, out there in the forums, some forum user is claiming that their Suntour XC 28 is the best fork you can buy. Anyone who disagrees hasn't gotten theirs set right or taken it off the same sweet jumps.


My Indy SL is the best fork ever.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

kiotae said:


> My Indy SL is the best fork ever.


You're going to give me nightmares bringing up that POS.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Curveball said:


> You're going to give me nightmares bringing up that POS.


Now that I think about it, it was probably an Indy C. I was 15 and thought it was the greatest thing in the world.


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## Curveball (Aug 10, 2015)

kiotae said:


> Now that I think about it, it was probably an Indy C. I was 15 and thought it was the greatest thing in the world.


I think I was about 30 or so and thought it was trying to kill me. I quickly replaced it with a Marzocchi Z2 which was worlds better.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Curveball said:


> I think I was about 30 or so and thought it was trying to kill me. I quickly replaced it with a Marzocchi Z2 which was worlds better.


Trying to kill me vs greatest thing in the world might perfectly sum up the same experience as had by a 30yo and 15yo. I eventually got a Manitou SX Ti if I recall. Also a big upgrade.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Well for $43 I just got a Raven top cap to swap out for the Ramp control. Should allow me to chuck a shockwiz on there, as well as see if some of the high speed harshness is from ramp or the HSC.

I am also planning on doing the spring swap to decrease the shift into HSC but I want to make incremental changes, so I'll do that after a ride with just ramp control removed.


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## Kombinat.PL (Oct 15, 2011)

Does anyone have vector files for Ribbon, that he wouldn’t mind sharing for my personal use not commercial?

Thanks.


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## hhemmerde (May 14, 2004)

B. Rock said:


> Well for $43 I just got a Raven top cap to swap out for the Ramp control. Should allow me to chuck a shockwiz on there, as well as see if some of the high speed harshness is from ramp or the HSC.
> 
> I am also planning on doing the spring swap to decrease the shift into HSC but I want to make incremental changes, so I'll do that after a ride with just ramp control removed.


How did it go with the Raven top cap?


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Winter kicked in finally in CO so I've been mostly on the skis since that post. Also trying to track down a shockwiz. For what most shops want for a rental fee, I might as well just buy one then resell when I'm done. Exact timeline is up in the air for both of those reasons.


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Update, turns out my wife is frustrated with her Grip2 on her 36 so we're just going to swap forks for a bit, she may very well be perfectly content with the factory damper - TBD. I will likely still take out the ramp control however.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Ribbon 29 now goes to 170mm. As if it wasn't flexy enough previously. 

I'm happy with Ribbon Coil at 150mm, but another 20mm seems like it pushes this chassis pretty hard. 

Anyone know if any other updates were done to accommodate that extra travel with the big wheels?


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## Jukka4130 (Jun 21, 2020)

The new Ribbon LT model has a new beefed-up crown to start with.

Interestingly, I haven't noticed any flex-related issues with the older chassis.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Notice I didn't say "issues" I just said that the flex existed and many folks who had ridden the Ribbon, 36, Lyrik, and newer beefier forks all know that the Ribbon felt more like an older 36 or a slightly stiffer Pike. It was always seemed to lose out against the Lyrik in terms of stiffness, and I'm sure the new 36 is stiffer yet. I'm a bigger guy and I've never had many complaints about fork stiffness and went to the Ribbon Coil precisely because I wanted more comfort, not because I need added stiffness chasing performance gains.

One thing I did notice is some variation in the crown design, even on MRP's website:

Flat and blocky:








Shaped and contoured:









My Ribbon Coil is a 2019 model and has the more contoured crown and from what I can tell looking at pictures from older reviews it looks like they switched crowns in maybe 2019? 2018 pictures have the more blocky crown.

I guess I'm kinda surprised that MRP hasn't been really marketing these changes much. I know a lot of people ditched their Ribbon because it couldn't go to 170mm (along with a few other reason like the damper.)

Although that being said, the Raven and Ribbon Coil are still listed at 160mm MAX for the 29" versions.


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

I'm not a big rider and never had any complaints about the stiffness of my OG Ribbon at 150mm. However, once putting on a Mezzer the difference was immediately noticeable. The flex was always there, I just used to it. This isn't to say it caused me any problems, but I can absolutely see where some folks might have an issue.


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## Jukka4130 (Jun 21, 2020)

The term stiffness is quite vague. Could you specify in what direction the Ribbon lacks stiffness in your opinion? In the fore-aft or torsional direction?


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## kiotae (Jan 1, 2018)

Agreed. It's vague because realistically we're not isolating the types stiffness while on a ride so talking about it fore-aft vs torsional is tricky. But...

Both. I don't think it's an opinion issue though. It objectively has more flex vs a Mezzer, which it should being given the dimensions. How much that flex (or lack thereof) matters is certainly opinion  Personally, I wouldn't put it down as a con, just a characteristic to be considered given one's weight/style/preferences. After swapping to a Mezzer there was a distinct difference in steering precision through rock gardens. Of course, there are other factors at play so how much is down to the increased stiffness is anyone's guess. More stiffness isn't always better and preferences differ, just my observation that even under my 155lbs at mid travel setting, a difference was quickly apparent.

Put another way, compared to a Pike, which I also own, I wouldn't describe it as lacking stiffness. Feels about the same. Compared to the current crop of enduro forks, it definitely can be considered to lack stiffness. Again, for some riders this may not be a con at all.


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## PHeller (Dec 28, 2012)

Rigidity of the chassis can have an impact on the action when bushings start to bind or wear prematurely. As travel increases, you'd probably want a stiffer chassis to mitigate some of the reliance on the bushings being perfect. That being said, EXT is over there with the 35mm ERA at 170mm getting lots of positive reviews for the stiffness of the fork, and the Lyrik was the leader in (single crown) rigidity with "just" 35mm stanchions until the Mezzer, 38 and Zeb showed up.


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## Jukka4130 (Jun 21, 2020)

The crown design of the Lyrik has been apparently top-notch. Not sure what Rock Shox has done differently with that. 

And a small side note, the ERA has 36mm stanchions.


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## aan (Jul 30, 2011)

reviving this thread a bit to get some input from other Ribbon owners

I am using a ribbon on my hardtail, set up at 120mm travel right now. My understanding is that less travel generally = higher PSI? What are you guys running for pos/neg PSI? I have read sources that vary between 40-50% body weight in lbs. I am about 180lbs and have been running about 90psi positive and negative. The fork feels great on small bump stuff when I get into chunky stuff like a long series of brake bumps, rock gardens, etc...feels like I am going to have my arms rattled out of their sockets.


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## kerpoise (May 8, 2011)

aan said:


> reviving this thread a bit to get some input from other Ribbon owners
> 
> I am using a ribbon on my hardtail, set up at 120mm travel right now. My understanding is that less travel generally = higher PSI? What are you guys running for pos/neg PSI? I have read sources that vary between 40-50% body weight in lbs. I am about 180lbs and have been running about 90psi positive and negative. The fork feels great on small bump stuff when I get into chunky stuff like a long series of brake bumps, rock gardens, etc...feels like I am going to have my arms rattled out of their sockets.


What compression and rebound settings have you got?

Sent from my IN2023 using Tapatalk


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## aan (Jul 30, 2011)

kerpoise said:


> What compression and rebound settings have you got?
> 
> Sent from my IN2023 using Tapatalk


rebound I am 8-9 clicks out from fully closed, no lsc


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## MTB Engineer (Feb 15, 2021)

What pressure others are running is irrelevant. You ALWAYS set the pressure to reach the desired sag and in case of the dual chamber Ribbon set the positive first and then match the negative at the same or slightly higher pressure.


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## Dougal (Jan 23, 2004)

MTB Engineer said:


> What pressure others are running is irrelevant. You ALWAYS set the pressure to reach the desired sag and in case of the dual chamber Ribbon set the positive first and then match the negative at the same or slightly higher pressure.


Nah, sag is bollocks. Set pressure for ride frequency and then adjust volume and repeat if your ride height needs to change.


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## MTB Engineer (Feb 15, 2021)

Regardless of what method you use, pressure is always user and bike specific so comparing pressure with a buddy on a different bike is IMO pointless.


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## Mathullah (Jun 24, 2011)

I'm just about to do a lower leg / air piston service. While I was taking the fork apart, I have noticed that the two small o-rings at the damper foot nut are damaged (see picture below).










Does anyone know what the dimensions of these O-rings are and which kit they belong to?

Thanks!


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## romulin (Apr 23, 2017)

Mathullah said:


> I'm just about to do a lower leg / air piston service. While I was taking the fork apart, I have noticed that the two small o-rings not he damper foot nut are damaged (see picture below).
> 
> View attachment 1953271
> 
> ...


I'm going to be taking the fork apart as i believe this is where my leg oil gets into the negative chamber, so i will measure them, might take a few days till I get there tho..
But yours is on the damper side so shouldn't be too critical? 

Odoslané z M1 pomocou Tapatalku


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## B. Rock (Mar 9, 2011)

Call MRP? They're usually pretty good with that stuff.

Side note, after swapping out the top cap for the Raven style and adding a huck puck (ramp control removed), my wife is pretty stoked on the fork after getting it dialed in with a shockwiz. It did initially say to remove HSC, and I expect as her riding progresses she'll start to feel that more, but for now she's happy with it. And I'm happy with the 36.


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## SkyManatee (Jul 28, 2019)

Hi folks, 

I've got a question to anyone running a 170 mm Ribbon Air (or Noah if he still checks these). I've ended up with a brand new Ribbon Air 170mm. I've got about 3 rides on it and I've been tinkering with the set up when I noticed that the fork is sucking down into its travel (more than from the weight of just the bike). I've messed with it for a while, but here are some more details:

I'm about 155-160 lbs with gear. 

P(+) = 65 psi / P(-) = 70 psi gives about 25 mm of suck down into the travel and about 23% sag (measured from top of the seal to the sag indicator, so this does not count the suck down). This leaves about 156-158 mm from top of the seal to the lower bit of the crown.
P(+) = 60 psi / P(-) = 61 psi gives about 15 mm of suck down into the travel and about 26% sag. This leaves about 170 mm from top of the seal to the lower bit of the crown.
I know there is supposed to be more travel than this because I can pull the stanchions up and if I let all of the negative air pressure out, the fork stands up all the way. This should leave just under 180 mm from the seal to crown based on what I've measured. 

I've seen a lot around the wide web talking about this issue with auto-balancing +/- chambers, but obviously the auto-balance is not the issue here. I've got rebound damping and low speed compression damping all the way off. I've tried using the lower bleed valves. I've tried setting the negative pressure first, then setting the positive (and vice versa). The only way I can get the thing to stand up all the way is by setting the positive pressure higher than the negative. Obviously this is not ideal for this fork... 

My questions are:

Is this an issue I should be worrying about? Does this fork typically sit into it's travel without weight?
If this is not right, how do I fix it or does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks


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## MTB Engineer (Feb 15, 2021)

My Ribbon SL would also suck into its travel after a ride. It turned out to be a split top cap o-ring. Mine would also only extend fully if I kept the pressures equal or negative lower. Now I can keep the negative ~5-10psi higher and no stuckdown.


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## SkyManatee (Jul 28, 2019)

MTB Engineer said:


> My Ribbon SL would also suck into its travel after a ride. It turned out to be a split top cap o-ring. Mine would also only extend fully if I kept the pressures equal or negative lower. Now I can keep the negative ~5-10psi higher and no stuckdown.



Bummer to hear that, but glad to see a potential fix. I'll pull it sometime this week and update the thread. A bit confusing about how the topcap o-ring causes, but maybe I'll get a better sense once I open it up. Thanks!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

SkyManatee said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> I've got a question to anyone running a 170 mm Ribbon Air (or Noah if he still checks these). I've ended up with a brand new Ribbon Air 170mm. I've got about 3 rides on it and I've been tinkering with the set up when I noticed that the fork is sucking down into its travel (more than from the weight of just the bike). I've messed with it for a while, but here are some more details:
> 
> ...


Howdy!

I couple things here, for one, YES the fork will appear to move into travel a little bit as you approach equal +/- pressure, but that's the top-out bumper relaxing. Your fork is hyperextended otherwise.

Do you have a 27.5" or 29" fork?

I would recommend you start the air setup procedure from step one: release all negative pressure. While you're filling your positive chamber, you should depress the PSST valves too, in case you've got a vacuum in your lowers (which would act as a secondary negative spring). Once you're at your desired + pressure, and you're confident the pressure in your lowers has been equalized with the outside ambient pressure, then fill up the - chamber. Again, yes it will appear that the fork is slightly sucking down, but that's just the top-out bumper relaxing.

Most cases similar to what you describe are attributable to an "oops" in the setup procedure at some point. There's only one way to fill the fork (as described above). Filling the negative first will just keep shrinking the fork more and more _and_ increasing the negative volume. Once you've done this, a full reset (as described above) is required.

We generally don't recommend running a fork with less pressure in the negative, that puts stress on the top-out bumper and will make the top-out sensation more noticable.

Hope that helps!


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## dwyooaj (Dec 14, 2006)

NoahColorado said:


> I hear you.


any progress on medium-firm spring?


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## SkyManatee (Jul 28, 2019)

NoahColorado said:


> Howdy!
> 
> I couple things here, for one, YES the fork will appear to move into travel a little bit as you approach equal +/- pressure, but that's the top-out bumper relaxing. Your fork is hyperextended otherwise.
> 
> ...



I am running the 170mm 29 Ribbon Air. I did follow the set up procedure outlined in your video (and here in the forums) three times since my last post (that is: +, PSST, then -) with no luck. The fork still measures about 153-155mm from top of the seal to bottom of the crown. This measurement is with P(+)/P(-) = 56 /60 psi and the bike in the stand so no weight is on the fork. I also have done about 30 miles of riding which did not affect that 155mm distance. 

I did just pull the top cap and the o-ring on it looks good. I don't think there any issues there. Is there something else I should be looking at or should I try to send this to MRP? I feel like having at least 15-20 mm of suck down is a lot for a fork.


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## aan (Jul 30, 2011)

Anyone have decent firsthand experience with the Ribbon SL forks? Considering running one of these on a new hardtail build that will be used for a mix of trail riding single speed and bikepacking (not single speed). 

Can't find much online about it, but seems it should ride pretty much identical to the normal Ribbon air (without the ramp control cartridge)? I had a 2017 Ribbon for awhile and it was OK...appears the new internals since then should help smooth things up a bit. 

Trying to compare this vs. something like Fox34, SID, Helm, etc if anyone can offer any firsthand experience! TIA


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## MTB Engineer (Feb 15, 2021)

Review: MRP Ribbon SL suspension fork


A mountain biking blog covering mostly mountain biking, mtb, cycling, biking, bicycling and related product reviews




mtbengineer.blogspot.com





Been running one for ~1300km with plenty of problems in the beginning. They are now sorted though so in conclusion:

Excellent when kept well serviced
The dual air spring is a bit of pain, would
Prefer a self-equalizing system

The chassis is very good with good stiffness
The damper is not great with repeated big hits, but works for
The foam rings are too dense and don’t absorb much oil => service interval needs to be 50h or less to keep things working smoothly

Personally if you’re paying MSRP I would take a Pike Ultimate over this.


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## aan (Jul 30, 2011)

MTB Engineer said:


> Review: MRP Ribbon SL suspension fork
> 
> 
> A mountain biking blog covering mostly mountain biking, mtb, cycling, biking, bicycling and related product reviews
> ...



Thanks really appreciate the input! Enjoyed reading your review and some of the other write-ups on your site. 

Yeah at MSRP right now I can get a Fox 34 with grip or fit4 for cheaper (or GRIP2 for a little more), or a Pike or Sid Ultimate. Even the Helm Mkii is about the same price.


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## dculotta (Feb 3, 2013)

Hello all,

I recently bought a used bike with a Ribbon set at 160mm (alloy GG Smash). It feels pretty good so far, and after reading through this thread I'm cautiously optimistic about it. The suspension was serviced by a shop before I bought the bike, and on the first two rides it worked great. Although far from a pro, I have a decent amount of experience riding and working on other forks from the big two.

Now my question/issue: today before my third ride on the Ribbon I pulled up on the bars and there was a little bit of a dead spot and a slight clunk as the fork topped out. Note this does not happen when I push down or rock the bike, only when I pull up, i.e. at top-out. The temperature had dropped a ton recently, so I thought maybe the neg air spring pressure had dropped. I checked, it had, and when I reset it to a proper psi the knock and dead spot went away.

However, during the ride the clunk came back, and I could feel the lack of spring at the top of the stroke as I unloaded the fork and/or pulled up on the bars. When I stopped and checked, the negative pressure was way down, and when I filled the chamber back up, the issue went away, But then it'd start up again in 5 minutes or so. Rinse and repeat four or five times on a short-ish ride. FWIW temps were in the 60s.

So I'm assuming I've got a leak from my neg chamber. Anything else that could be causing this issue? Really hoping I don't have to do any major maintenance after three rides. If it is a leak, anything I should look for initially besides the obvious foot nut tighten and foot nut o-ring check?

Thanks in advance!


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## NoahColorado (Aug 3, 2004)

dculotta said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I recently bought a used bike with a Ribbon set at 160mm (alloy GG Smash). It feels pretty good so far, and after reading through this thread I'm cautiously optimistic about it. The suspension was serviced by a shop before I bought the bike, and on the first two rides it worked great. Although far from a pro, I have a decent amount of experience riding and working on other forks from the big two.
> 
> ...


Hi there,

Congrats on your new-to-you bike!

You should depress the PSST valve on the lowers, on the spring-side. If you hear a PSST, it could indicate the leak is going into the lowers, not escaping from the schrader valve.

But yes, the other things to check are the o-rings on the schrader valve assembly and the schrader core.

For more help, give us a call and talk to service: 970-241-3518. Or shoot us an e-mail, [email protected].


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