# Trail Riding at 400lbs



## RhinoRider (Feb 24, 2016)

Hi all,

I've read many MANY threads about bikes for big guys, and most of the suggestions are about building bikes from scratch. I'm not against replacing a part or two if I have to, but I don't know enough about bikes to start from scratch. Neither do I know a local lbs that can help. (I've tried a few. Some tell me that I can't freeride at my weight, and some try to sell me things even I can see won't hold me)

So, is there such a thing as an off-the-shelf solution that will get me down some starter-level trails at my weight without folding like an origami bike?

Thanks for your help everyone!

(edited the title to fit advice below...)


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.



RhinoRider said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I've read many MANY threads about bikes for big guys, and most of the suggestions are about building bikes from scratch. I'm not against replacing a part or two if I have to, but I don't know enough about bikes to start from scratch. Neither do I know a local lbs that can help. (I've tried a few. Some tell me that I can't freeride at my weight, and some try to sell me things even I can see won't hold me)
> 
> ...


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## scbison (Aug 21, 2015)

Have a look at this thread for some suggestions. Good luck with your search. Ignore LyNx attitude but his point may be valid.

http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/bike-frame-builder-400-lb-rider-17754.html


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

LyNx said:


> Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.


We might strongly disagree and argue with each other on many topics here in ClydeLand, but we're not chimps about big guys and girls who want to ride bikes.

OP. Get reading the posts around here and learn from others who have gone before you. I'm more tall than wide so I can't help too much. I'd say avoid full suspension for now, look for 36 spoke wheels and learn how to ride off-road so you can compensate a little with good technique. Good thing is, standards in axles, forks, wheels, bars etc are all getting stronger and more capable of dealing with greater loads.


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## RhinoRider (Feb 24, 2016)

TooTallUK said:


> We might strongly disagree and argue with each other on many topics here in ClydeLand, but we're not chimps about big guys and girls who want to ride bikes.
> Please take your skinny ass to the more weight-weeny sections of the forum and leave the grown ups to talk about grown up stuff.
> 
> OP. Get reading the posts around here and learn from others who have gone before you. I'm more tall than wide so I can't help too much. I'd say avoid full suspension for now, look for 36 spoke wheels and learn how to ride off-road so you can compensate a little with good technique. Good thing is, standards in axles, forks, wheels, bars etc are all getting stronger and more capable of dealing with greater loads.


Thanks TooTall, both for the defense and the advice. I have read MANY threads on this, but battled to find any talking about off the shelf solutions for 300+ riders, they all seemed to talk about custom builds, and that is just beyond me... I am starting to think that the way to go might be buying off-the-shelf with a recommended frame and then upgrade as things break.

(BTW, did you by any chance every play Football (not soccer)? Farnham Knights?)


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Lynx definitely could have used some more tact, but he does have a valid point to make. It would be unfortunate to let a real point slide by because it was presented poorly.

Freeride is going balls out over crazy stuff. Theres no starter or beginner freeride. Thats just called normal trail riding. 

If you're planning on hitting the north shore big drops, it might be time to sideline that idea for a while. If you're really just wanting to go trail riding, we can help! 

A hardtail is going to be a better solution. A steel, heavy duty hardtail. With downhill rims and solid hubs. It'll hold up.


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## RhinoRider (Feb 24, 2016)

One Pivot said:


> Freeride is going balls out over crazy stuff. Theres no starter or beginner freeride. Thats just called normal trail riding.
> 
> If you're planning on hitting the north shore big drops, it might be time to sideline that idea for a while. If you're really just wanting to go trail riding, we can help!
> 
> A hardtail is going to be a better solution. A steel, heavy duty hardtail. With downhill rims and solid hubs. It'll hold up.


See, it doesn't matter how much research you do, you're going to end up wrong to somebody... The research I did defined Freeriding as "downhill riding that isn't racing"... So yeah, trail riding sounds like what I mean.


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## Jeffsky (Jan 12, 2016)

RhinoRider, 

It sounds like you are an ex- college or pro linebacker, that kept eating post playing, allowing the calories to consume you rather than the opposite of when you were active. I assume you were sub 300 in your prime. Assuming I am right, that means emotionally you are still an athlete. Athletes are born, not made (my opinion). So that means when you set your mind to doing something, it will get done. Assuming I am right, listen to these guys in MTBR and get yourself a bike that you can ride. Great exercise, better than running or even walking, especially for a big guy. 

Good luck finding the right ride!

P.S. I am also a newbie, be careful this sport can be addicting, but a lot better than eating, drinking and smoking, unless of course you ride in Colorado where the blazing could be pretty cool too.


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## RhinoRider (Feb 24, 2016)

Got it in one (lineman though, not linebacker). However it's health issues that have me the size I am today, not calories. I still train for various other sports. I don't live in Colorado, but Washington, so the same rules about smoking apply


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## Jeffsky (Jan 12, 2016)

Actually backer was a typo, so I got that right. No linebackers close to 300 - too slow.  

LOL on the Washington blazing. 

Hope the biking helps with your health issues! Enjoy.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

You come here with wrong terminology, but acting like you know what you're talking about, so I give you sound advice based on what you asked, if you tried to Free Ride at your weight with any current bike, fork, and wheels and you would severely injure or kill yourself. FYI, check the video below to see what Free Riding is, what you're talking about is Trail riding, which is exactly what I said you should do, use a heavy duty, steel HT with Fox36 or beefier fork, 36 hole hubs to heavy duty, wide rims, beefy tyres.



RhinoRider said:


> You know - I should have expected some replies like this - but I didn't expect it to be first out the gate. If you've got nothing constructive to say, piss off and hate yourself somewhere else please.
> 
> 
> > See, it doesn't matter how much research you do, you're going to end up wrong to somebody... The research I did defined Freeriding as "downhill riding that isn't racing"... So yeah, trail riding sounds like what I mean


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## RhinoRider (Feb 24, 2016)

No, what OTHER people did was give me sound advice based on what I said.


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## Sandman29 (Jan 22, 2009)

Surly Ice Cream Truck would work fine for you. Any Steel Fat bike.


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## milliesand (Jun 29, 2015)

Some practical advice:

Many/most off the shelf bikes spec sheet list an upper limit of 300 pounds (or at least when I did this search last Summer). And it was intimidating to first walk into LBS. But....you need them right now. 

If nothing else, perhaps they can help you into a cross between a cargo and mountain bike (Cargo bike for the stiffer wheel). Avoid a 9MM quick release hub in favor of 15 or better 20MM. At your size and presumed strength condoning, you might want to go on less demanding rides while dropping weight. 

And buy a spoke wrench ($10). The wheels (esp spokse and hub) are going to be what keep you on the trail exercising.


BTW: While I was much lighter tan you, not ONE person in the bike shop or on the trails gave me any 'tude about my weight.


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## Sandman29 (Jan 22, 2009)

Surly Ice Cream Truck.
Surly Moonlander
Surly Pugsley
Surly Wednesday
Surly Krampus

-- All of the above are over built bikes. A 400 pounder can ride these on beginner trails.


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## TooTallUK (Jul 5, 2005)

LyNx said:


> You come here with wrong terminology, but acting like you know what you're talking about, so I give you sound advice based on what you asked,


and you came in here throwing advice around like an angry weight weenie.

This is Clydes and Tall Riders. We're just happy to see people wanting to get on bikes. I'd suggest you read some of the inspirational stories before you gob off at anyone. Yes, the guy has a lot of weight, but asking questions here, no matter how noob, is a positive step in the right direction and he's asking in the right place.
The problem is you're offering advice in the wrong place.


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## jonshonda (Apr 21, 2011)

Op, just do what you can to honestly ignore lynx. He has no business in this thread and is out of line with the majority of his comments. 

*Lynx if you are reading this, you really need to just stop. You have zero perspective on what is required for a person of this size to ride*

Op, a great option for losing weight is riding bikes, and combined with a improved diet you should be able to start losing weight pretty quickly. There are many challenges at your weight w/ regards to bicycle components. You will find that the more weight you lose, the better you will feel the the easier biking on challenging trails will become. Expect to be frustrated with biking to start out with though, as it will take a lot of effort to get yourself up hills, and to ride on tough terrain. But the more time you put into it, the better you will get, and you WILL enjoy it more. 

Most bike shops have no IDEA what is correct for guys your size, so if you budget allows you would look at buying a frame/fork and having a shop build the bike up for you. 

Here is my build list for you, which I think would be a great build for someone of your size. 

Surly Karate Monkey frame (you can find them used). I chose steel because of its ride qualities and they are fairly cheap. 
If you can, I would stick with a rigid fork for now as setting up a suspension fork for a guy your size might lead to disappointment w/ regards to performance. 
Your will will NEED to be custom built, as I really don't think a wheelset found a stock build will hold up for very long at all. You might want to consult a guy very well known for building great wheelsets at lacemine29.com for what his thoughts are. I am thinking DTswiss 350 hubs, but am unsure about rims. 
I would recommend a really sturdy crankset, I prefer shimano Saint but I think SLX crank will be fine. Prepare to replace bottom brackets fairly often. 
I would do shimano breaks also, using a 203mm rotor in front and 180 rear. 
KMC X10 chains have been great for me. 

Let me know if you have any other questions, otherwise I think you will have fun with biking.


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## alphazz (Oct 12, 2012)

I've been all around this topic. I've worked in and owned a bike shop. I've gotten older and busy raising children and gained too much weight. I began having health issues and seriously started riding again. I currently work with a lot of people who are obese. 
Nearly any bike will work for casual riding on trails for someone at 400 pounds. Some care has to be used because bikes aren't really designed with that amount of rider weight in mind. Common sense would say that jumps might cause a failure.
It doesn't matter what position in football that you played, it is hard for a body to cope with being 400 pounds. And as one gets older, that weight starts to create a lot of problems. 
Does the OP want someone to pat him on the back and say it's all okay, or honest advice? 
Why not buy an inexpensive used bike that will get him started on exercise. Attack the weight issue with diet changes and exercise. And have a goal of getting a nicer bike when the weight is down to 300, with possibly even a nicer bike with the weight getting around 250.
The move from 400 to 300 should not take more than a year with just modest effort.


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## trekninja (Oct 22, 2007)

i personally cant stand lynx, and granted he was a little blunt with his first post, its all true. you cant expect to participate in this sport at that weight. a cruiser bike and a year on the tow path would be a good start. all you guys make fun of us normal sized people and get mad when we say youre to fat to ride, but if i, at 69in and 160lb, wanted to be a football player, you would all laugh at me. each sport has a preferred body type and unfortunately 400lb is not preferred for cycling. encouraging 400lb to rail down a trail is a recipe for disaster. people are going to get hurt


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

First, just stop it, Lynx. We have a new rider who is trying to SAVE HIS LIFE by riding a bike, and you are not helping.



jonshonda said:


> Surly Karate Monkey frame (you can find them used). I chose steel because of its ride qualities and they are fairly cheap.
> If you can, I would stick with a rigid fork for now as setting up a suspension fork for a guy your size might lead to disappointment w/ regards to performance.
> Your will will NEED to be custom built, as I really don't think a wheelset found a stock build will hold up for very long at all. You might want to consult a guy very well known for building great wheelsets at lacemine29.com for what his thoughts are. I am thinking DTswiss 350 hubs, but am unsure about rims.
> I would recommend a really sturdy crankset, I prefer shimano Saint but I think SLX crank will be fine. Prepare to replace bottom brackets fairly often.
> ...


As someone who weighed 320 at one time, this is solid advice. Let me add to your good list.

As far as rims, I suggest Sun-Ringle MTX33 rims. They're for downhill. I've hit 3' drops on them and haven't even bent a spoke. Have Mike at lacemine29 build them. He built some for me that have been rock solid.

A SLX crank is a good idea, they have a special steel insert in the crank arm at the pedal insert for strength, so they're more durable than aluminum.

Those DT Swiss hubs sound good. I tour with those hubs with 20kg of extra stuff on the bike and they handle the steepest climbs.

Also look at Wipperman chains. Those are the clydesdale track chain of choice.

For the stem, get one specified for 'all mountain' or 'downhill', with four bolts. That's the strongest option, and believe me, that piece needs to be strong.

For the seatpost, get a Thomson Elite. It's an amazingly strong post that won't creak.

Best of luck.


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

Sandman29 said:


> Surly Ice Cream Truck.
> Surly Moonlander
> Surly Pugsley
> Surly Wednesday
> ...


I'd scratch the Moonlander and Pugs. Their hubs are 9mm quick release and the frames are flexy. They're old tech.

The Ice Cream Truck and Wednseday are modern - with through axles - and incredibly stiff. Those frames will handle an ultra-clyde with a lot more grace and solidity.

The Krampus frame is solid enough, but still quick release. Getting an Ice Cream Truck and getting custom 29+ wheels built with front+rear through axles is much, much better.


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## Le Duke (Mar 23, 2009)

One thing that needs to be considered:

If you get hurt out in the woods, how are people going to be able to get you to safety?

It's one thing for a 200lb dude to get hurt; an adult male can carry him down a trail to a Forest Service road or similar. Even little ol' 143lb me. It's another thing for a 400lb person to get hurt. Short of building a stretcher or having a multiple person carry team, you're going to be SOL for a while until the SAR team figures out how to get to you.

I'm not going to tell you not to mountain bike, but I'd strongly caution you to focus on the fitness side of riding and not the huck-to-flat side of riding at this point.


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## schnee (Oct 15, 2005)

Le Duke said:


> One thing that needs to be considered:
> 
> If you get hurt out in the woods, how are people going to be able to get you to safety?
> 
> ...


Yeah, I thought this went without saying, but when I was a mere 260 it took four strong people to get me into an ambulance on the street. In the woods? Haha, forget it.

I'm sure you're tired of the chorus, but... please ride much easier things than you think you are capable of, until you've reached 'fit' weight. I remember when I was at my fattest I used to think 'oh, all the big old fat guys aren't *brave* enough, but I am!' and after a few close calls, I realized no, they were smart.

Extra weight means your connective tissues get stressed a LOT more on a crash, and you'll be twisting ankles and spraining knees on crashes that other people will not even feel. You'll be going to rehab for things that other people will walk off.


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## Bikin' Bric (Sep 7, 2003)

Keep it clean guys, no personal insults or the thread will be locked and/or binned.


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## Sandman29 (Jan 22, 2009)

The correct answer to the question is still Surly. A steel bike will work for a 400 pound rider on beginner trails.


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## Alias530 (Apr 1, 2013)

LyNx said:


> Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.


Wait... are you serious? :skep::nono:


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## MASC1104 (Feb 2, 2015)

if you havent seen this thread they have some off the shelf suggestions.

http://forums.mtbr.com/clydesdales-tall-riders/[email protected]

Best of luck!


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## Rhodyman (Aug 7, 2015)

I'm sure you've heard of "Fat Guy Across America (Eric Hites)." He's the guy attempting to ride across the country. Eric was 560 pounds when he started his journey (he's dropped about 50 pounds since). He started his ride while on a Mongoose which he destroyed in no time. A local bike shop (Newport Bicycle) stepped up and donated a custom GT mtb which he has been riding since.

Best of luck on your journey!


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## DSFA (Oct 22, 2007)

Going to chime in on this. I'm currently 300lb and honestly pretty much starting over fitness wise this year. Didn't get out near as much as I wanted last year and am pretty much battling depression with a boatload of family issues going on.
Best big guy bike I've had (and I'm pretty much a bike whore, used to manage a lbs, ran a small shop outta my garage a few summers ago and fixed and sold 300+ bikes that summer) is a Cotic BFE, now available in 27.5 (I've got a 26er ), just built another 29er (Niner ROS 9) but just had elbow surgery so have to wait a bit to start riding again.
Got a very good buddy who's owned his own shops and ran a few others that's got a Raleigh Tokul 27.5 so once my elbow is ok'd for riding I want to do a 26 vs 27.5 vs 29 all mountain hardtail shootout! 
Planning on doing a write up on that. 

And as far as the too fat to freeride...I ran my BFE down Crested Buttes Avery DH race course last summer just fine.


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## leeboh (Aug 5, 2011)

One other thought besides the good ones here. Check out the Zinn mountain bikes. A builder who specializes in big and tall bikes. looking at some $$ though. A Karate Monkey or Ogre would work as a good start.


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## BigFitz (May 14, 2014)

I was 330 when I bought my Krampus. It has taken everything I've thrown at it with barely any issues. I beat on it and it holds up. I've trashed the stock rear shimano hub after 500 miles but that was an easy fix. The rabbit hole wheels are still true. 
I had a specialized rockhopper before the Krampy and it was not even close to being up to the task for a Clyde. 
I don't ride DH but I do ride plenty of rocky and footy New England trails. 
Look into the Surlys
I'm glad I did. Good luck man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Sandman29 (Jan 22, 2009)

BigFitz,

I agree a Surly will handle the biggest man. Especial the Krampus, ICT, Wednesday, Pugsley and Moonlander. Steel frame, steel fork.

And not only that, they are the coolest bikes on the planet!!!!


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

I started at 320 pounds...and while 80 pounds more is quite a bit...it's still within ballpark. I started my journey on a Specialized RockHopper 29er. I rode trails and I didn't ride easy. I never had any issues with stock parts. I did upgrade to a better fork...a Manitou Drake Air with 20mm TA and threw on some MTx33's (which I still have and are for sale  )...they were both a huge improvement. Brakes got a needed upgrade as well...BB7's and 180/160 rotors. Maybe that 80 pounds will make the difference...but I don't think that the frames will be an issue unless you are really hammering hard on some gnarly trails. Just don't look at carbon until you are <300 and avoid lightweight race frames as well. It'll be the fork, wheels/hubs, and saddle that will be the parts you want to address most. If you are interested in building something...and it's not that hard really...and you want a somewhat light frame that will handle the abuse...check out the Kona Big Unit. I have one and it's a great frame. But Kona only offers it as a frame and not a complete bike.

Over time I got down to 238 but mostly from riding on the road and eating Paleo. My weightloss didn't really kick into high gear until I got a road bike. In my area...and at least my riding style...mountain biking is more like HIIT and road is more like a lower intensity run. The HIIT will whip you into shape but that long caloric burn during a 3-4 hour ride really helps the weight come off. I managed 80 pounds in one summer of riding.


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

How about a few tips from a guy that started out at 400lbs? Everyone has thoughts, but I think few understand the huge difference between 350 and 400Lbs. 

Even being 'athletic', you're not going to be blazing down trails. You've got a high center of gravity, you can feel it, and it's going to give you a confidence hit and make you take it easy on the trails. Don't worry about getting stuck in the woods with no hope of rescue. You're not going to be riding 30 mile loops for some time. A single-wheel gurney can get you out should you actually need a rescue. SAR teams RUN with those things ten miles up mountains to get to old goats that have no business on strenuous trails, they can get you a few miles down the easy trails you will be riding for awhile.

You are NOT going to destroy everything but the strongest steel hardtail with 500mm axles, unless you abuse the bike. If you can't afford to start out on the equivalent of an AM bike, no problem. I spent my first three years on cheap Formula QR hubs. The axles flexed under my weight, my rear rotor sung like a stool pigeon every time I reached for a water bottle, and I broke a spoke every few months, but they got me through until I was ready to build a strong wheel set.

You are not going to kill any half decent oem XC fork, either. I just replaced the five year old RST Deuce 100 that came on my Cannondale Trail SL. In five years I never opened it up, only cleaned and oiled the stanchions. YMMV, but like I said, you're not going to be killing it on the trails at 400lbs. If you don't abuse the gear, it will last. Go with a lockout fork... good for keeping the bar up for comfort while laying down those road miles. After I lost a few pounds I found I liked to turn off the lockout for comfort on really long road rides.

Get some large urban tires that will work both on the street and trail, and start putting down miles. I have 1.9's on most of the time. Ride to work if you can, it's a good way to ensure two good rides on any given day. Street miles will let you focus on burning calories and building strength so you can burn more calories. Hit the trails at least occasionally for fun, but focus on gains the rest of the time.

Your butt and wrists are going to hurt for awhile, don't let that dissuade you. I started off running a thick gel pad on a thick gel seat, two layers of bar tape, and gel gloves. Got a riser stem, and added bull horns, too. Push through the pain, ride regularly, it will dissipate. When it starts to wane, increase the miles. Take a few weeks off, you'll find the pain returns. Stay on the bike.

If you have the option, go with 36 spokes in the rear wheel and 32 in the front. 32R/28F just isn't up to the task for our weight range. I got by, but was tired of replacing spokes every few months by the end of the first year.

Once I started riding trails at speed, I found the tapered crank wasn't up to handling a 360Lb rider standing on the pedals. If you can start off with Hollowtech, great. If not, SLX cranks are cheap, and Deore are reasonable, for a later upgrade.

You will wear through cassettes quickly, keep an eye on it and the chain. If you don't, you'll end up having to replace the crank early.

Your bike will be fine as long as it's a decent, true starter XC bike ($800-1000). Alloy or steel, doesn't matter. You can save a lot of money getting a used bike. Skip carbon fiber, you're not going to notice the weight savings, and you're not going to be faster.

Good luck!


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## tjchad (Aug 15, 2009)

I agree with Flamingtaco on frame weight. I see a lot of guys, my friend is one of them, who have to have the lightest bike out there while they are big heavy guys themselves. If you are overweight or obese then a light bike is not going to do you any good. You will lose more weight just riding than you can save in lightweight frame and components anyway.

I have a Chromag Stylus- not light, but neither am I. I weigh between 250 and 275. A heavy bike is not what will hold me back, I am what will hold me back...


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## avidthrasher (Jan 27, 2016)

Weight is all relative man . Don't worry about your weight. It's gonna come off as long as you just keep your head down and keep grinding anyway so don't let anyone's comments on that get you down!

Get out there on the streets and trails and just churn out those miles. Ride whatever wheels come on the bike you end up purchasing (if you're also tall I'd suggest looking at 29ers as a serious option) and roll on em til you wear them out (this will happen unless you buy a higher end full bike that comes with very solid wheels) and then make your first investment to upgrade your ride a bombproof wheelset that has of better quality and optimally things like replaceable/rebuildable bearings so that you get the best longevity out of the investment.

As a bigger Clyde wheels are going to be the biggest issue starting out. Cheaper bikes will have lower end wheelsets and us heavy duty folks have a way of destroying bearings in the rear hubs of low end wheelsets. Making a note of this and upgrading that part of your bike early on will save you many pains in the ass.


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## HBSURFDAD (May 29, 2014)

Legit Clyde here. 

Pick your parts carefully and you will be fine. Quality is paramount and will be a little expensive, but does not have to be crazy expensive. The effort to find the "right" shop will make all the difference. Wheels, cranks, the frame, all will make or break your pleasure level.

This site has great info as to what works for us gentlemen and like everything worth doing it takes a little effort.

Good luck.


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## Walt (Jan 23, 2004)

I have built a lot of bikes for the 7'+ and 400+# guys (and some who are both) and the bottom line is that nothing of the shelf is fun or even safe for *mountain* biking (ie, singletrack). Riding crushed gravel or paved trails can be done on a really beefy mountain bike (the Krampus/Moonlander suggestions are good) but for actual trail riding, you basically are going to have to accept that you will need a custom bike. That will cost some decent money (probably minimum about $4500), but c'est la vie. Better to buy it once, right?

If you can safely and enjoyably ride, your health and fitness goals are going to be a lot more achievable than if you never get out because your bike is always broken. 

Good luck!


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## corwin1968 (Oct 8, 2011)

I weigh 400 lbs and I've ridden a Handsome Devil frameset with Deore components and 40mm tires on a beginner MTB trail with no worries. It scared the shite out of me because that bike isn't really designed for that type of riding but it was all I had. I wasn't worried about the bike failing, just my lack of skill in riding a bike like that on an MTB trail. I will say I had my wheels custom built to reflect my weight (for those interested: no-brand touring hubs from one of the Taiwan mega-builders, Velocity Dyad rims, 40 DTSwiss spokes per wheel, built by a guy who builds wheels full-time). 

I'm currently riding a Surly Karate Monkey with 2.35" Big Apples and would ride it on a beginner's trail with no worries. 

Remember, if an MTB is rated for a 300 lb rider, it's engineered to be strong enough to support a 300 lb rider JUMPING the bike at whatever MTB safety level the bike is rated. I suspect any good MTB will be rated at 6" or even 12" jumps (I don't have the chart handy). At 400 lbs, I think it goes without saying DON'T JUMP ANYTHING! Ride slowly over rough stuff and walk around the jumps. Beginner trails should have very little rough stuff and no jumps, anyways.

EDIT: I just checked Surly's website and the Karate Monkey is rated for 24" drops or jumps. I couldn't find a weight limit but I'm almost sure it's at least 200 lbs and may be as high as 300 lbs.


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## BIGben40 (Jul 28, 2015)

Ok So I found this and thought that I should comment my experiences. So here is the story. YMMV and feel free to point out my errors. This Is what I have done and I am happy with the results. 

Hit 40 years old, No riding, no activity other than work. I had racked up a meniscus tear surgery both knees in the last two years. I was 6ft 1in and 422 lbs just signed up for a bariatric surgery program and seriously thought I was going through with it because nothing had worked up to that point. My doctor told me to do something low impact or I would be in for two total knees in a couple of years if not dead from the weight.

I researched and researched bikes and I knew from riding MTB's in my 20's at 220 lbs that a suspension fork and shock was not going to work because back then we never could get a fork that felt like it was working properly and not flexing alot. (never tried a Lefty) So I was looking for something rigid. I figured the bike would be disposable after one year and if some of the weight came off it was going to be worth it if it kept me out of surgery it would be worth every penny. 

Now on to the bike I chose and why. 
I chose a Hard tail Fat Bike with an beefy alum frame, disk brakes, through axles, thread in bottom bracket housing, 9 speeds because the chain was wider, Tripple front chain rings, and no suspension fork. I went this route because it was difficult to find a 26in wheeled rigid mountain bike with a tripple, if not impossible. 29in wheels were going to be too flexible and geared toward racing in my opinion. I was in such poor shape and had so little confidence that I would not even test ride the bike in the store. Throwing a leg over it was difficult enough since I had just had the second knee surgery and was still in PT. (man was I bad off!) I was sure a seat post or rear wheel was going to fold up riding around the parking lot... I bought the bike without riding it because something had to change and if it was going to fold up I was going to do that at home where no one could see it happen. 

I wondered if the big tires were just some fad and thought how could these ever work out well for my needs. Well I got on the bike and rode it around the sidewalks in my neighborhood. My max speed at that time was 3 mph. I did notice that even with 30 psi in the tires that they absorbed all the expansion joints in the sidewalk. I thought WOW this might be ok......I stayed on the bariatric diet and rode some distance every night it was not raining. Before long I was at 10 miles and feeling better and better. The bike was not flawless but the bottom bracket noise was cleared up with Teflon tape and the first alum freehub body was replaced with steel by the LBS. I was venturing off the paved paths some and when I got to 380lbs I went into the woods very cautiously on beginner trails. Brakes were then not up to the task (IMHO) so I replaced with Avid BB7 2xxmm rotor on the front and the stock size on the back due to bracket issues. I entered a few DINO races so I could learn the trails in the area and proudly took last place over all. (Because I was not on the couch!) By the time October came around I was able to complete 40 miles of the Brown County Indiana Epic at a 7 mph ave. and I was down to 360 lbs.. Was I bombing the down hills and riding above my head NO. But I was out there climbing the hills using the granny gear and making the climbs! Had I passed anyone yet.... Nope. I was Enjoying myself (Some would say Suffering) and the encouragement of others I would meet on the trail. By the end of Fall I needed a new chain and because I waited so long and let it stretch I needed a cassette and installed new rings for good measure this was right at 1000 miles. I went into winter interested in riding in the snow and what little we had here in central Indiana I had a blast. I had broken two spokes in the rear wheel over the year and decided that it would be better to replace the whole wheel since it had served me well and was now starting to break spokes I went with a DT Big ride Hub and straight gauge spokes with Brass nipples built by Scott at ICS one of my LBS. As of tonight I only have 15 miles on them but they seem like they will do the job well and if not well its better to try and fail than do nothing at all and ride the couch! I had thoughts of trading out the bike for a new one of the same model but the frame seems ok for now so I will throw wheels and other parts at it for the summer.

Hope this helps you 

So how is the bike I am riding set up now.
FELT Double Double 70
Selle Royal Respiro Soft Moderate Men
tape the threads on the bottom bracket to end creaks
Thompson seat post (bent the stocker 4 months in)
Thompson stem (wanted something shorter)
Answer Pro Taper Riser bars
Daves Mud Shovel fenders (run the front all the time. tires kick up lots of dirt)
Fat B nimble tires
Rear wheel.. Mulefut rim, DT spokes, Brass nips, Big Ride Hub. (one ride one it)

I had a lot of support and encouragement from Sally (my girlfriend), Jerry (co worker) The Entire staff Indy Cycle Specialist, Dallas at Grey Goat Sports, Bicycle Outfitters Indy, IU Health Bariatrics program (which I am now out of). Fat bike radio and Fat bike.com 

I most likely missed something but you get the idea. 
Ben.

Oh and I propose a new class of rider since 220 seems to be clyde.. I am a Pachyderm on my way to a Ryno. LOL


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## Sasquatch1413 (Nov 6, 2008)

Just came here to say that Lynx is a hack, don't listen to him.

Rhino, I've been 320-340 for a while and ride hard. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you wanna talk bikes. Hope you found something that would work.


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## SpecialCshoe (Mar 29, 2016)

LyNx said:


> Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.


I started with a Marlin 29er and I weighed 325 lbs. Since then i moved up to a Trek Remedy I weight 245 now and I feel great I killed my lower bracket bearings and cassette bearings once each in the process. You can change yourself. You have to want to ! Its hard at first but keep going riding every night even if its for a mile or 2. You body will adjust and respond to it. I also found that the meal replacement shakes are very good when riding.


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## ohiogsp (Oct 9, 2013)

alphazz said:


> I've been all around this topic. I've worked in and owned a bike shop. I've gotten older and busy raising children and gained too much weight. I began having health issues and seriously started riding again. I currently work with a lot of people who are obese.
> Nearly any bike will work for casual riding on trails for someone at 400 pounds. Some care has to be used because bikes aren't really designed with that amount of rider weight in mind. Common sense would say that jumps might cause a failure.
> It doesn't matter what position in football that you played, it is hard for a body to cope with being 400 pounds. And as one gets older, that weight starts to create a lot of problems.
> Does the OP want someone to pat him on the back and say it's all okay, or honest advice?
> ...


U got some good advise here man! I was gonna say the same thing. As long as your not getting crazy, bikes are alot stronger than people think. I weighted 400 and biked down to 320. I ride xc/trail stuff and get some air sometimes. I ride a Santa Cruz superlight 29er on the trails and a full carbon s-works tarmac on the road. I have never broke anything on my bikes and have had some good crashes on my superlight. I even rode it at Highland Downhill park. lol


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## LambeosaurusBFG (May 25, 2016)

I started riding at 383 pounds. Bought a Trek Cobia hardtail. I've got almost 1600 miles on it in the last 4 years and it has held up well to a ton of trail abuse. 400 pound trail riding is definitely do-able. 

I did have to replace the rear rim after a few hundred miles. I bent it on a 3ft drop off. My LBS was able to bend it back but I continued to bend it until it finally reached the point where I had a custom wheel built. Went with a Stans ZTR Flow EX 36 spoke rim, Shimano XT hub, heavier duty spokes, and I have probably 1200 or more miles on it since without breaking it again. I think the entire wheel build, including labor was around $300 or $350.


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## dadtorbn (Sep 6, 2009)

OP scared off the forum.:madmax:

It's not fair. He asked for help a callus reply made him move on...

We're here to help each other...

Granted 400lbs limits bike selection. That's why he came here! It's not impossible and people offered great options. If your over 400lbs you need to ride flat stuff to avoid tweaking wheels since you'll not likely be absorbing the abuse with your legs by standing. Also, shift carefully (unloaded drive train) or you'll damage things, from experience .

Rant over sorry.


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## shrek janitor (Apr 1, 2018)

I ride my pugsley with fsa dh cranks, phil wood 36 hole hubs,14 gauge spokes. I’m 6’ 2 385#. Large marge rims. Bit speedy upfront but trouble free for years


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## EDAY77 (Apr 2, 2018)

I'm a little smaller than you (325 lbs), and i have a Salsa Timber jack. Its weight limit is around 355 with equipment. Its held up well with me so far and it has a lot of trail oriented components.


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## willtsmith_nwi (Jan 1, 1970)

jonshonda said:


> Surly Karate Monkey frame (you can find them used). I chose steel because of its ride qualities and they are fairly cheap.
> If you can, I would stick with a rigid fork for now as setting up a suspension fork for a guy your size might lead to disappointment w/ regards to performance.
> Your will will NEED to be custom built, as I really don't think a wheelset found a stock build will hold up for very long at all. You might want to consult a guy very well known for building great wheelsets at lacemine29.com for what his thoughts are. I am thinking DTswiss 350 hubs, but am unsure about rims.
> I would recommend a really sturdy crankset, I prefer shimano Saint but I think SLX crank will be fine. Prepare to replace bottom brackets fairly often.
> ...


I'm not 400# but I've recently peaked at 380#. The last gen Karate Monkey worked really well, I actually ended up getting the seatpost stuck. I then upgraded to the Krampus and that bike is AWESOME, plus their new Natch tubesets and solid chainstay yolks up the strength.

You will need custom wheels ... period. For more reliability you would want 27+. I'm riding 29er wheels that I built and I can keep them in business, but I have wheelbuilding experience. Parts ... TRIPLE BUTTED spokes are a MUST. Hub choices: Chris King, DT Swiss, Onyx with a stainless steel freehub body. If you use any other rear hub you will likely trash the freehub body. Thru-hub axles.

Cranks: Shimano SLX 
Brakes ... whatever ... run a larger rotor in the front. 2 piece rotors will warp less. I'm partial to Shimano
Cassette ... Shimano
Fork ... Fox
Pedals ... Time or Shimano ... for god sake don't get Crank Brothers ... ANYTHING ...


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## theBarzeen (Dec 26, 2017)

I know the thread is old, but after reading some great and some terrible advice on here I'd like to offer my experience. 
I spend my year between 330-365 and am extremely athletic (pro totals in powerlifting) and regularly hit little jumps and drops up to 12-18"... The guy who got me in to riding dropped from 545-299 from riding (including singletrack) and did most of it on sub-$300 bikes. 
The key for him was fat bikes and plus bikes so the wheels wouldn't fall apart.

For me, at 365 I'm still hitting jumps and after 18 months on my bike, about 14 months on the current build I feel like I've found as bombproof a setup as possible.

I started on a Surly which did great but wasn't as nimble as I wanted so I went to a Felt DD70 and promptly broke almost everything - hubs, drivetrain, and the brakes weren't up to the task. Now it's set up with an XT drivetrain, Onyx hubs, XT Brakes, and a Wren fork and it's handled everything.
Hopefully the OP didn't get scared off, and hopefully if someone else stumbles on this thread they can see all the positive comments other Sasquach-class riders have left and decide to get on a bike.


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## buffalohump (Jun 6, 2019)

Started at 395 on a specialized hybrid, the crossroads. Living at the beach, have a few rougher roads. So a pure road bike was a no go. Have slowly changed it to a gravel bike. Now at 295, getting another mtn bike. Not sure which. But that crossroads changed me. Went from upright position to road bike position. Feeling great. And btw, 6’6 295 from heaviest of 435


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## tom tom (Mar 3, 2007)

buffalohump said:


> Started at 395 on a specialized hybrid, the crossroads. Living at the beach, have a few rougher roads. So a pure road bike was a no go. Have slowly changed it to a gravel bike. Now at 295, getting another mtn bike. Not sure which. But that crossroads changed me. Went from upright position to road bike position. Feeling great. And btw, 6'6 295 from heaviest of 435


.....:thumbsup:.........:thumbsup:


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## Dung Hopper (Jun 24, 2013)

LyNx said:


> Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.


He asked how to equip a bike for trail riding and your answer was "you can't do it so do some trail riding to lose weight."

I can't answer your question specifically but I would imagine a quality hard tail (chromoly if you can find one) would hold your weight for less aggressive riding. No offense but a 400 lb. guy is probably not riding for as long or as aggressively as many other guys. If you are using the bike on fairly smooth trails, you would probably be okay. If a bike can handle a 200 pound guy doing 4 foot drops, it can handle a 400 pounder with his wheels on the ground. Doing some smooth climbs for workouts while watching your calorie intake would probably cause you to drop weight pretty fast. Don't get discouraged by negativity. You can get yourself into real good shape if you want to and then pick whatever bike you like. Good luck!


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## buffalohump (Jun 6, 2019)

Dung Hopper said:


> He asked how to equip a bike for trail riding and your answer was "you can't do it so do some trail riding to lose weight."
> 
> I can't answer you question specifically but I would imagine a quality hard tail (chromoly if you can find one) would hold your weight for less aggressive riding. No offense but a 400 lb. guy is probably not riding for as long or as aggressively as many other guys. If you are using the bike on fairly smooth trails, you would probably be okay. Doing some smooth climbs for workouts while watching your calorie intake would probably cause you to drop weight pretty fast. Don't get discouraged by negativity. You can get yourself into real good shape if you want to and then pick whatever bike you like. Good luck!


Great advice. Started slow and dropped weight. Now at 300 i can go pretty hard on local trail. It can be done


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## Dung Hopper (Jun 24, 2013)

BIGben40 said:


> Oh and I propose a new class of rider since 220 seems to be clyde.. I am a Pachyderm on my way to a Ryno. LOL


That's a good idea. Maybe a super clyde or something. I always thought 200 was a Clyde but I could very well be wrong. I am 6'1" and teeter around 200-205 but was up to around 225 several years ago. My ideal weight would probably be about 180-185 but I don't care enough to get there.

Anyway, I know some guys carrying more weight than me that are in really good shape. Losing weight help but even while overweight, some people can get into good cardiovascular shape. A guy that I ride with is bigger than me but would easily embarass me in any kind of a distance run or swim.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

No, he did not, he asked about FREE RIDING, i.e. hucking off $hit and stuff like that, that is not Trail riding in any sense of the word and I gave an honest response to the original question. Try re-reading the OPs question and his statement again, maybe then you won't produce such stupidity, the gist is still there despite them editing it after I responded 



Dung Hopper said:


> He asked how to equip a bike for trail riding and your answer was "you can't do it so do some trail riding to lose weight."
> 
> {quote=OP]I've read many MANY threads about bikes for big guys, and most of the suggestions are about building bikes from scratch. I'm not against replacing a part or two if I have to, but I don't know enough about bikes to start from scratch. Neither do I know a local lbs that can help. (I've tried a few. *Some tell me that I can't freeride at my weight, *and some try to sell me things even I can see won't hold me)


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## Dung Hopper (Jun 24, 2013)

The title was “trail riding” when I saw it. It does look like it was edited. You are right that freeride at 400 is not practical. I think a YZ250 with the engine removed would work on the downhills but that’s not likely what OP is looking for. 


Your tone came off as condescending and critical. You may not have intended it that way but it came off that way.


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## Nubster (May 15, 2009)

Dung Hopper said:


> That's a good idea. Maybe a super clyde or something. I always thought 200 was a Clyde but I could very well be wrong. I am 6'1" and teeter around 200-205 but was up to around 225 several years ago. My ideal weight would probably be about 180-185 but I don't care enough to get there.
> 
> Anyway, I know some guys carrying more weight than me that are in really good shape. Losing weight help but even while overweight, some people can get into good cardiovascular shape. A guy that I ride with is bigger than me but would easily embarass me in any kind of a distance run or swim.


200 is generally what's considered clyde. I do think the weight should be raised though.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Just buy a front suspension bicycle, that fits you and go out riding. You can always buy a decent front suspension fork, like a Downhill fork if the stock one is no good. DO NOT BUY NO BSO from a department store. If you buy new, go to your local bike store, get a Giant, Trek, Specialized, Rocky Mountain or whatever. If you buy used, buy the same brand name bicycles, get tuned at your local bike store and ride. Lose that weight. Keto Diet is the new in diet. Lay off the carbs. Its been working for me. I eat chicken/turkey, veg, fruits, little to no bread.

Rear suspension bikes are out of the question.
Dropper seat posts are out of the question.

Your only go to is a front suspension Downhill fork.


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## wickerman1 (Dec 24, 2003)

LyNx said:


> Come on man, seriously, WTF ut: :madman: You are well over double the weight range bikes are designed for, it's like asking if you can use stuff normal sized people use without breaking it. Do some XC/Trail riding, get on a serious diet, loose 100lbs+, then look to maybe try it, unless of course you're 8ft tall, then you're fairly decent weight for a big fella that height.


well in your comment you're wrong on so many levels. First of all he is 400 lbs. That isnt "more then double" of a manufacturers recommended weight. That would imply a bike is only good for a rider less than 200 lbs. I'm 250 and do 4-6 foot drops on a 120-130 mm travel bike and don't bottom it out. My recommendation is, buy a good steel frame, like Chromag or Kona Honzo, and get a wheelset hand built, 36 spoke if possible, and a good air fork. They would be the three things that would fail.


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Steel frame is a great point! The brand name bicycle frames that come in steel would be older models I'd assume. Then your into Quick Release wheelsets instead of the through-axle which is fine for beginners. No need for the new age components, like tapered headset, thru-axle hubs and such.


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## jshaf (Oct 19, 2019)

matt4x4 said:


> Lose that weight. Keto Diet is the new in diet. Lay off the carbs. Its been working for me.


Word on Keto, changed my life. started at 460 lbs on 10-8-2017, by June 2018 had lost 170 lbs. it's one of those things, if you want it bad enough you will make it happen. which leads me to getting in to cycling. will by my first Bike in decades(I'm 50) and the idea is to alternate walking and trail riding on the vast rail trail system in my region. used to walk 5 hours/15 miles every week end but this year have had issues with tendinitis in one of my feet, and Achilles issues. I need something physical but would give my feet a break. Cycling is my solution. problem is I have not rode since I was a teen and have never operated a multi gear bike in my life, but doing my research and narrowing my choices down to mostly three models of Treks since there is a local dealer near by and come spring will make the plunge. wish me luck  currently 280 ish and I am 5-10. short limbs and long torso, have a strange build


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## matt4x4 (Dec 21, 2013)

Wow! @ 460lbs just WoW! I told myself, "Self when you hit 300lbs, you will go on a diet!" then I told myself when the scale read 305lbs "Self, that scale is uncalibrated because no one ever returns the weights to zero." Then I was mid 300's and I said to self "Self you should work out and eat healthy" which I replied "Where are my Oreo cookies", then I hit upper 300's and I just stayed there. My problem used to be I drank lots of chocolate milk. Plus I was eating in the late evening. Big no nos. Now I layed off the milk, layed off the breads, and the cheeses. I eat Subway during the day, a wrap not the buns. But again, the Oreos in the late evening hours, or toast and peanut butter.

The weight limitation is for them to weasle out of warranty issues. I have ridden tons of bikes at my weight, and the only bicycle that has broken was a bike where they route the cables inside the tubes because they drill holes there and that is where it broke.



jshaf said:


> Word on Keto, changed my life. started at 460 lbs on 10-8-2017, by June 2018 had lost 170 lbs. it's one of those things, if you want it bad enough you will make it happen. which leads me to getting in to cycling. will by my first Bike in decades(I'm 50) and the idea is to alternate walking and trail riding on the vast rail trail system in my region. used to walk 5 hours/15 miles every week end but this year have had issues with tendinitis in one of my feet, and Achilles issues. I need something physical but would give my feet a break. Cycling is my solution. problem is I have not rode since I was a teen and have never operated a multi gear bike in my life, but doing my research and narrowing my choices down to mostly three models of Treks since there is a local dealer near by and come spring will make the plunge. wish me luck  currently 280 ish and I am 5-10. short limbs and long torso, have a strange build


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