# Trek 3500 or Specialized Hardrock, newbie advice needed



## CasperKat (Apr 26, 2011)

Two or three mountain bikes are in my local shops for my price range ($300-400). Other than each salesperson telling me his bike is better, I don't have a clue.

I want a simple mountain bike that I'll use for mostly light off-road use. I'm actually thinking that any of these would be fine for me. I want something that will last a long time with little maintenance. I plan on riding dirt trails meant for deer, not jumping or rock climbing.

Trek 3500 for $379 (msrp $399)
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain_hardtail/3_series/3500/
Shifters: Shimano EF51, 7 speed 
Front Derailleur: Shimano Tourney 
Rear Derailleur: Shimano TX31 
Crank: Shimano 131, 48/38/28 
Cassette: Shimano TZ31 13-34, 7 speed

Specialized Hardrock for $419 (won't deal at all)
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52708&scid=1000&scname=Mountain
Shift Levers: SRAM X.3 7sp trigger 
Front Derailleur: Shimano Altus, 34.9mm clamp 
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.4 8sp Midcage 
Crankset: SR SunTour, square taper spline 
Cassette: SRAM PG-730, 7-speed, 12-32t

or even the Haro Flightline 1 for about $350. (never heard of Haro, is it a decent brand?)
http://www.harobikes.com/mtb/bikes/XC-Adventure-Hardtail/3/
Shifter: Shimano EZ Fire Plus 7-Speed Shifters 
Front Derailleur Shimano Tourney 
Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus 7-Speed 
Cassette/Freewheel Sunrace 7-Speed 14-28t Freewheel 
Crankset: Prowheel Alloy 42/34/24

The salesman for the Hardrock said his bike is better because the double walled rim is stronger. But I've read it's heavier too and that stronger depends on more than just double walled. He also said the Trek is only a 7 speed, but I think the Hardrock is too, he just thought it had an extra gear.

I know I need to ride each and see if I fit to one better, but I haven't ridden a bike for 10 years, literally, and I won't know how it should feel to me. After riding motorcycles, no bicycle feels "right".

Basically, I want to know if one has better components than the other.

Thanks. I'd really appreciate some un(salesman)biased opinions!


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## AndrwSwitch (Nov 8, 2007)

The Trek on your list shouldn't be taken off-road. I recall another thread about a 3900 and finding that it has single-walled rims. Those don't belong on mountain bikes, IMHO. Neither do freewheels, and the Trek has that too.

Haro is a reputable brand, but I think they do more BMX. A teammate had one of their FS rigs, and while he had some durability problems, they took care of him. This particular Haro, though, isn't really viable for the same reasons as the Trek.

While the Specialized is also a 7-speed, it's a much more durable wheel design than the other two. Double-walled rims are typically lighter, although that's certainly not a rule and I wouldn't know if it's true in this particular case.

Bicycles taken off-road require a fair amount of maintenance. Bikes at this pricepoint require even more maintenance. Do you have any shops in your area carrying used bikes? $300-$400 is a much better budget when someone else has paid for the depreciation for you. 

I bumped into someone on a bikesdirect.com bike on one of my favorite trails the other day. While I'm not a huge fan of theirs and their site looks like a scam, they are a real web site selling real bikes and the prices are pretty good. He was pretty stoked on his, and said it was a huge improvement over the dept. store bike he'd been riding. Anyway, if no bikes feel right to you, buying locally won't add much value over BD's sizing chart. Sounds like you may be needing a new bike in a season or two anyway.


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## mack_turtle (Jan 6, 2009)

Trek puts a sticker on each of their bikes on the downtube, right by the cranks, that states the bike's intended use. the 3500 is a "city/trekking bike" whereas the 4-series is their entry-level mountain bike. i would not take any 3-series bike on a trail that has any sort of technical features. it's make for gravel paths, bike paths, and roads. the single-wall rims are probably the weakest point and you will probably bend them up quickly on trails. I have seen a lot of salespeople sell 3-series bikes to people who want a mountain bike and I wish they would not do that.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

mack_turtle said:


> Trek puts a sticker on each of their bikes on the downtube, right by the cranks, that states the bike's intended use. the 3500 is a "city/trekking bike"


Really? They sure _look _the part of being a mountain-bike. Are you saying that Trek builds "mountain-bike-shaped objects"  .

I just looked at a 3700 recently in the shop. It is listed under "Mountain Hardtails" on the Trek website. The description reads as follows, and clearly mentions "trails:"

"You want to hit the trails or own the streets on a bike that's meant for you. Front suspension, knobby tires...the trails await."

I'm headed back to the same shop in a few days. I'll look for that sticker you mention.

Edit: 63mm travel fork and trekking gearing of 48/38/28. Mack_Turtle has a point.


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

The Trek comes with 48/38/28 gearing in front. That is a poor choice for offroad. If you're going to be offroad, you want either 44/32/22 or 42/32/22. If you're just getting into riding, believe me, you'll want that lower gearing. 

The Hardrock comes with a cassette freehub, which is an advantage over a freewheel. The Haro comes with a freewheel, and I'd probably avoid that. A cassette freehub will be less susceptible to bending than an older style hub with freewheel. Plus, if you're the sort who likes to do all your own bike work, cassette hubs are where it's at. I hate having to deal with freewheels when I work on friend's bikes.

The Hardrock gives you 80mm of travel in the fork, which is the minimum travel you generally will see on singletrack these days. The 3500 gives only 63mm of travel. MackTurtle is right. I consider 63mm of travel to be something you find on a trekking or bike-path bike, not something for singletrack. 

I like that I see SRAM components on the Hardrock, even though they are low-end SRAM components.

Definitely test-ride.

Good luck in deciding. Post back and let us know what you ultimately end up buying.


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## nephets0 (Mar 16, 2011)

i like my hardrock...


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## Specialized_Camber (Apr 26, 2011)

My first Bike was the Hardrock Disc. Loved it. Granted the last bike I rode was the old Sigma that had those plastic dises on the wheels when I was probably ....12?, 13? which was roughly 17 or 18 years ago. Like you I compared the Trek 3500 and the Hardrock, but with my svelte (scandanavian word for fat, kidding) 6'2, 220 pounds the wheels on the 3500 would have folded, especially since it was to be a trail bike. I had read a few posts on this site concerning that very issue on the 3500 (weak wheels). The Hardrock frame as I'd read was bombproof, and the wheels would stand up to my pudgyness on the trails (double walled). I never had a problem with the components, of course I can't speak for longevity because I only kept it for a month. My first few trips through singletrack sold me on this new activity my wife wanted to take up. I've ridden dirtbikes since I was 5 years old, I'm 35 now, but the wife hates motorcycles, and I felt like I was right back on my KX250...minus the noise. When I say I only kept the bike for a month, it wasn't because anything was wrong with the bike, it was just that the Camber Elite was calling my name. If the bike shop I had bought the Hardrock from hadn't given me $400 trade-in toward the Camber I would have kept it.

The only thing that irked me on the Hardrock Disc was the squealing Tektro mechanical brakes. I was easy to find in the woods however. Just follow the squealing boar. My wifes Myka HT (which she also traded in and got a Myka FSR, which she loves) with v-brakes was silent. Had I done it over I would have gone with the v-brakes on the Hardrock and saved some cash and had a quieter bike.

I vote Hardrock


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## CasperKat (Apr 26, 2011)

Thanks everyone. I'm leaning toward the Specialized Hardrock now. I called around and someone went 20 bucks cheaper, so now everyone will. Go figure. So it's only 20 bucks more to go from the Trek to the Specialized.

There are just too many upgradeable things on a bike! It's hard for a new guy to understand which component is better than the other component. Even after reading a million posts on this forum and elsewhere online, it's a daunting task. 

I called yet another bike store and they carried Fuji mountain bikes. I said nope, no more new research, not even going to consider it!!!!


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## Alkan (Apr 27, 2011)

Well, I'm a newb to serious mountain biking. I think going used sounds best of all if you're not going to buy something nice. After reading this, that's my plan, since I'm going to spend my money on the best I can get for the price. If you can get something that was worth a thousand a few years ago for 400 bucks, why not do it?

Also, if you're still looking for new, I keep hearing that the Trek 4300 is a good starter that is actually a more serious mountain bike.

http://www.stableoutdoors.com/2010-Trek-4300-p/2010 Trek 4300.htm

It's a little more money, but what's 40 bucks above your current price range really doing against you? I mean, I'd wait for a few other people to comment on this idea since I'm new myself...


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## JonathanGennick (Sep 15, 2006)

CasperKat said:


> There are just too many upgradeable things on a bike! It's hard for a new guy to understand which component is better than the other component.


Don't obsess too much about the individual components. We've probably hit all the big items that matter by now. Bear in mind that the price spread across those three bikes is minimal. Thus, the different companies really don't have much room in which to specify wildly better or worse parts.


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## Mudcat (Mar 22, 2011)

I was in the exact same position with the exact same 3 bikes a month ago. I researched them and decided to go with the Hardrock for the mentioned reasons, wheels and cassette. I really like the Haro dealer and wanted to buy from him but it wasn't in the cards. 

I have no regrets and love my Hardrock.


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## mesome (May 3, 2009)

I bought a Hardrock Disc new in 2009 as a starter bike and it's been great. I've upgraded a lot of the components as I broke them but considering the abuse I put them through they held up pretty well. About the only major complaint I have is with the wheelset, they were single wall rims with a freewheel instead of a cassette. They'd get out of true after one ride and I ended up breaking the rear axle twice and folding the front wheel. Looks like the 2011's have a nicer wheelset though.

If you do go with the Hardrock I wouldn't bother upgrading anything until it breaks, the only exception possibly being the brakes. You can get a new set of BB7's for right around $100.


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## EssKay (Oct 12, 2012)

Newb here.
How do you like your HardRock after about a year's worth of ownership?
Did you consider the Giant Revel 2 while you were deciding?

Thanks


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## Kbman (Oct 12, 2012)

EssKay said:


> Newb here.
> How do you like your HardRock after about a year's worth of ownership?
> Did you consider the Giant Revel 2 while you were deciding?
> 
> Thanks


I am pretty sure that while the OP is only at a 2 post count and the 2 posts being in this specific thread, he has long forgotten that he was ever here... But from what I hear the Hardrock is a decent bike for the price point.


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## eb1888 (Jan 27, 2012)

EssKay said:


> Newb here.
> How do you like your HardRock after about a year's worth of ownership?
> Did you consider the Giant Revel 2 while you were deciding?


Both are setup with a Suntour fork as bpb(bike path bike) not mtb bikes.


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## Riley.bc (Oct 14, 2012)

Yeah the Trek is more street riding


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## EssKay (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks for the input guys.
I went with a 2012 Specialized HardRock.
It rides real nice.


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