# Park chain wear indicator tools CC-3 vs CC-3.2



## Burning Matches (Mar 14, 2011)

I recently bought a Park chain wear indicator tool CC-3 through Amazon. It has wear indicators on each side of the tool, one says .75 and the other 1.0. Not certain which measurement means "replace the chain," I turned to the internet to search. Well now I see that Park has created a NEW chain wear tool (CC-3.2), with wear measurements of .5 and .75.

The description says: 
"The CC-3.2 is a 'go-no go' gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75%, the points at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement."

However, the description I found for the CC-3 says:
"The CC-3 is a 'Go, No Go' gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches 0.75% and 1% wear, the point at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement."

This is the SAME description as the CC-3, just with different wear percentages. So at what point do most chain manufacturers suggest replacement? .5%, .75%, or 1% wear? Is my CC-3 tool obsolete? I just bought it! The Park website no longer has any mention of the CC-3.


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## gmcttr (Oct 7, 2006)

Looks like park has changed recommendations.

I have a CC-3 and don't use it. I prefer (as many do) to use a ruler/tape measure to measure 12" from pin to pin.

1/16" over and replace the chain, 1/8" over and you may need to replace the cassette as well.


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## Dad Man Walking (Sep 7, 2004)

There are some epic threads on the subject of chain wear indicators. Start here and you will find links to several others a short way down the page. It's all good stuff, very educational if you take the time to wade through it all.

Then you can reach your own decisions about .5 vs. .75 vs. 1.0, wear indicators vs. rulers, and the pros/cons of the different types of wear indicators (since there are obviously different opinions on the subject). Give yourself about 30-40 minutes and 2-3 beers to sort it all out.


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## 4slomo (Jul 4, 2006)

1/16" elongation of a chain over 12" of length is 0.52% elongation, or about 0.5%. Good time to replace your chain.

1/8" elongation of a chain over 12" of length is 1.04% elongation, or about 1.0%. If you've waited this long, it is probably time to replace your cassette as well as your chain.

The only variable in using the chain checker to measure is whether the rollers wear more quickly than the pins in a chain or not. One could usually use something like the CC-3, and if you see a 0.5% of wear indication then double check it with a ruler. Just try not to procrastinate in replacing your chain.


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## Burning Matches (Mar 14, 2011)

Dad Man Walking said:


> There are some epic threads on the subject of chain wear indicators. Start here and you will find links to several others a short way down the page. It's all good stuff, very educational if you take the time to wade through it all.


That is a fantastic thread; thanks Dad. Lots of good info there.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but to answer the OP's question, the .5% is the recommended replacement for 11 speed bikes.

Now, I too have the cc-3.2, and am wondering if it's prudent to change my 9 speed Sram chain when it gets to .5%? Most recommend it's okay to wait until .75%, but I want to avoid needing to replace my cassette whenever possible. I'd love to get 3-4 chains for every cassette (I use Shimano XT cassette). 

Is changing once it hits .5% overkill? 

Thanks in advance.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

Dad Man Walking said:


> There are some epic threads on the subject of chain wear indicators. Start here and you will find links to several others a short way down the page. It's all good stuff, very educational if you take the time to wade through it all.
> 
> Then you can reach your own decisions about .5 vs. .75 vs. 1.0, wear indicators vs. rulers, and the pros/cons of the different types of wear indicators (since there are obviously different opinions on the subject). Give yourself about 30-40 minutes and 2-3 beers to sort it all out.





dirt farmer said:


> Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but to answer the OP's question, the .5% is the recommended replacement for 11 speed bikes.
> 
> Now, I too have the cc-3.2, and am wondering if it's prudent to change my 9 speed Sram chain when it gets to .5%? Most recommend it's okay to wait until .75%, but I want to avoid needing to replace my cassette whenever possible. I'd love to get 3-4 chains for every cassette (I use Shimano XT cassette).
> 
> ...


Take a look at post I quoted and follow the link which was suggested..

It goes into discussion on the park tool chain checkers, It led me to this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/chain-wear-checker-anyone-689022.html and this link http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

and this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/wear-indicator-tool-215824.html

Happy Reading.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

FLMike said:


> Take a look at post I quoted and follow the link which was suggested..
> 
> It goes into discussion on the park tool chain checkers, It led me to this thread http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/chain-wear-checker-anyone-689022.html and this link http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html
> 
> ...


I did read all of your links, and with all due respect, they are completely different from my question.

So, again, assuming one wants to use a .5% - .75% Park tool (the cc-3.2), instead of a ruler or homemade thingamajig, is changing chains at .5% overkill, in regards cassette life?


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I use the CC3 measure the chain in 4 or 5 places if one of them is 0.75% I'll take the chain of and measure with a ruler then if it is generally at / or approaching 0.75% rather than just the odd link I'll change the chain (on both 9 and 10 speed) I get 4 or 5 chains per cassette, so see no reason to change - to me 0.5 % is overkill I read somewhere (on here I think) that people had found that a new chain was already at 0.5% when they checked it.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

dirt farmer said:


> I did read all of your links, and with all due respect, they are completely different from my question.
> 
> So, again, assuming one wants to use a .5% - .75% Park tool (the cc-3.2), instead of a ruler or homemade thingamajig, is changing chains at .5% overkill, in regards cassette life?


They arent different, if you read them youll find the common thought on using the Park tool type chain checkers are completely inaccurate due to the way theyre designed to measure the chain...


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

SimpleJon said:


> I use the CC3 measure the chain in 4 or 5 places if one of them is 0.75% I'll take the chain of and measure with a ruler then if it is generally at / or approaching 0.75% rather than just the odd link I'll change the chain (on both 9 and 10 speed) I get 4 or 5 chains per cassette, so see no reason to change - to me 0.5 % is overkill I read somewhere (on here I think) that people had found that a new chain was already at 0.5% when they checked it.


Thanks, SJ, this is what I needed to see. :thumbsup:


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## edubfromktown (Sep 7, 2010)

SimpleJon said:


> I use the CC3 measure the chain in 4 or 5 places if one of them is 0.75% I'll take the chain of and measure with a ruler then if it is generally at / or approaching 0.75% rather than just the odd link I'll change the chain (on both 9 and 10 speed) I get 4 or 5 chains per cassette, so see no reason to change - to me 0.5 % is overkill I read somewhere (on here I think) that people had found that a new chain was already at 0.5% when they checked it.


+1 though I use the CC-2 tool; new one goes on when I get ~.65 reading.

In my experience, XT and XTR 9-speed chains (running on two of my 29er's with XTR cassettes and different sets of chain rings that have over 4,000 miles combined on them) hit .5 on the CC-2 relatively quickly. The time it takes to even approach .75 (my interpolated .65 if you will) is significantly longer.

One thing to consider is that modern chains are manufactured to tighter tolerances so changing them closer to .5 is not all that bad of an idea. Your mileage may vary depending on how frequently you lube your chain, clean it, the condition of the trails, the topology, how hard you ride (switch gears, cross chain, etc while mashing up climbs for example) and other things I'm sure


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

I don't think changing at .5 is overkill at all. Chains are cheap, while cassettes, cogs, and chainrings are expensive, and changing at .5 means I maximize the life of all three.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

I agree with the philosophy of change the chain to maximise the life of cassettes and rings etc. However one thing I have noticed is that 10 speed chains don't last anywhere near as long as 9 speed ones. I have a 10 speed set mix of 105 / Ultegra on the bike I use for commuting and a few weeknight club rides and using the method detailed above I reckon the chains need replacing every 3000~4000Km, roughly 2/3rds of a 9 speed. I do about 300Km per week on that bike - in the 2.5 years its been set up I've been through 7 or 8 chains 1 cassette and the 105 rings still look brand new. Im not sure of the economics of changing the chain at 0.5% seeing as 10 speed chain $30~$40 - cassette $70-$80 - rings about $40~$50 each. The LBS round the corner only sells Shimano chains, been too lazy to try other brands.


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## letsgo (Apr 12, 2009)

Got a possible dumb question. Can you put a non-SRAM 10 speed chain on a bike with SRAM components? I am sure I am due for a chain change, among other things.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

letsgo said:


> Got a possible dumb question. Can you put a non-SRAM 10 speed chain on a bike with SRAM components? I am sure I am due for a chain change, among other things.


Not a dumb question at all - the answer is yes, no problem. I haven't tried these new assymetric 10 speed shimano Dynasis chains yet so even though they will fit - I can't comment on what the shifting would be like with SRAM rings and cassettes - probably be OK

Interesting point, a friend of mine uses a KMC 10 speed chain with a similar drive train set up to mine he reckons the chains take a lot more Km's to reach 0.75% than Shimano 10 speed chains but are much harder on Shimano alloy cassettes and rings - so maybe they would be worth replacing at 0.5%


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

SimpleJon said:


> I agree with the philosophy of change the chain to maximise the life of cassettes and rings etc. However one thing I have noticed is that 10 speed chains don't last anywhere near as long as 9 speed ones. I have a 10 speed set mix of 105 / Ultegra on the bike I use for commuting and a few weeknight club rides and using the method detailed above I reckon the chains need replacing every 3000~4000Km, roughly 2/3rds of a 9 speed. I do about 300Km per week on that bike - in the 2.5 years its been set up I've been through 7 or 8 chains 1 cassette and the 105 rings still look brand new. Im not sure of the economics of changing the chain at 0.5% seeing as 10 speed chain $30~$40 - cassette $70-$80 - rings about $40~$50 each. The LBS round the corner only sells Shimano chains, been too lazy to try other brands.


Even then, the chain will go from 0.5 to 0.75 a lot faster than it goes from 0.0 to 0.5. The little extra life you can squeeze out of it just isn't worth it wearing your rings/cassette.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

bad mechanic said:


> I don't think changing at .5 is overkill at all. Chains are cheap, while cassettes, cogs, and chainrings are expensive, and changing at .5 means I maximize the life of all three.


To be honest, this is what I _really _wanted to hear! I use the cheap Sram 951, which I clean and lube religiously. It'll never get the chance to rust the way I baby it, and at only $20 a pop, I think it's worth replacing at .5%.


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

bad mechanic said:


> Even then, the chain will go from 0.5 to 0.75 a lot faster than it goes from 0.0 to 0.5. The little extra life you can squeeze out of it just isn't worth it wearing your rings/cassette.


Thanks for the heads up - Next time I change the chain I'll keep an eye on how long it takes to reach 0.5% and if it is only a few 100 km less it is worth changing then.


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## MarcusSommers (Sep 11, 2008)

Have you guys ever checked a new chain? The large majority I have checked will register .5 on the park tools when brand new. So changing them based on this reading is kind of silly. 

Park will even tell you that new chains read at about .5.

I hate when I hire a new mechanic and he wants to replace every chain at .5% on the park. It means he has very little real world experience.


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## FLMike (Sep 28, 2008)

MarcusSommers said:


> Have you guys ever checked a new chain? The large majority I have checked will register .5 on the park tools when brand new. So changing them based on this reading is kind of silly.
> 
> Park will even tell you that new chains read at about .5.
> 
> I hate when I hire a new mechanic and he wants to replace every chain at .5% on the park. It means he has very little real world experience.


Exactly... Many people dont use the "wear tool" on a brand new chain prior to the first ride so they never realize that sometimes a brand new chain, never used, will read a .5 on that park tool.


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## dirt farmer (Mar 28, 2005)

MarcusSommers said:


> Have you guys ever checked a new chain? The large majority I have checked will register .5 on the park tools when brand new. So changing them based on this reading is kind of silly.
> 
> Park will even tell you that new chains read at about .5.
> 
> I hate when I hire a new mechanic and he wants to replace every chain at .5% on the park. It means he has very little real world experience.


My current chain has about 400 miles on it, and it's not to .5% yet (as measured by my Park cc-3.2). It looks like it may even last until summers end, knock on wood.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

MarcusSommers said:


> Have you guys ever checked a new chain? The large majority I have checked will register .5 on the park tools when brand new. So changing them based on this reading is kind of silly.
> 
> Park will even tell you that new chains read at about .5.
> 
> I hate when I hire a new mechanic and he wants to replace every chain at .5% on the park. It means he has very little real world experience.





FLMike said:


> Exactly... Many people dont use the "wear tool" on a brand new chain prior to the first ride so they never realize that sometimes a brand new chain, never used, will read a .5 on that park tool.


That's why I just use a ruler. :thumbsup:


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## SimpleJon (Mar 28, 2011)

MarcusSommers said:


> Have you guys ever checked a new chain? The large majority I have checked will register .5 on the park tools when brand new. So changing them based on this reading is kind of silly.
> 
> Park will even tell you that new chains read at about .5.
> 
> I hate when I hire a new mechanic and he wants to replace every chain at .5% on the park. It means he has very little real world experience.


I only use a CC3 as indicator to tell me when to take the chain off and start measuring - as above post
I don't know, I have never used 0.5% as chain replacement time, always 0.75%. I am going to check this time - I am have a 10speed flatbar roadie which sees about 300Km per week. I have found using shimano chains I get 3000+ to 4000Km out of a new 10S chain and 4 or 5 chains per cassette and as I said that seems relatively reasonable to me, (when running it 9 speed I was getting 6000Km per chain). Some have said chains can be 0.5% new, others that it it will start to stretch and hit 0.5% slowly then go to .75% relatively quickly - I don't know but I am going to check - new chain coming up pretty soon, the current one is already past 4000Km, but measures a shade over 0.5% by ruler. If the difference is a few hundred Km 0.5 to 0.75 i.e static and then starts to elongate very quickly I'll start changing at 0.5. if not I'll continue what I am doing as 4 or 5 chains to 1 cassette is OK with me. 
Damn stupid me to get sucked into the 10s nonsense though, I don't need the extra gear and I put all the 9 speed onto the wifes MTB when her stock stuff wore out and went 10S - expensive mistake in terms of durability 2 to 3 chains per year as opposed to 1 or 2


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## unicrown junkie (Nov 12, 2009)

I dunno, but after breaking my 9spd chain yesterday after only one season (barely, actually) of riding, my inclinations are to replace these newer, skinnier chains more often.

Case in point, on my daily commuter (surly cross-check), I converted to 9spd two summers back. Only 1200 miles on the chain and it was worn out. Replaced it, yet still took a month of riding to get it to seat back onto one of my most used cogs in the back. The damn cog had worn down as well. 

My thoughts are the new stuff may be wearing out faster.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

unicrown junkie said:


> I dunno, but after breaking my 9spd chain yesterday after only one season (barely, actually) of riding, my inclinations are to replace these newer, skinnier chains more often.
> 
> Case in point, on my daily commuter (surly cross-check), I converted to 9spd two summers back. Only 1200 miles on the chain and it was worn out. Replaced it, yet still took a month of riding to get it to seat back onto one of my most used cogs in the back. The damn cog had worn down as well.
> 
> My thoughts are the new stuff may be wearing out faster.


In my experience, 8spd is pretty hard to beat for reliability and longevity. It may make me a retro grouch, but I still run 8spd on all my geared bikes (and 8spd chains on my single speeds).


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## zebrahum (Jun 29, 2005)

bad mechanic said:


> That's why I just use a ruler. :thumbsup:


And why I use the Rohloff checker. The pins can bend so easily on the Park checker, it's just not that reliable.


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## bad mechanic (Jun 21, 2006)

The Rohloff checker is affected by roller wear, which is something you generally don't want. Here's a good explanation why:
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html


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