# Shimano pinch bolt tool ?????????????



## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

What is the proper tool for a shimano pinch bolt? 5mm hex? If you have couplers or a breakaway bike the crank gets removed more often than most. The 5 mm is not a snug fit, and it wants 13nm of torque. I learned that a craftsman #4 bolt removal tool is what I need to get it out, after I strip it. Is there a better tool? A stronger bolt? By the way, I have not stripped any other bolts on any of my 3 bicycle, just the fixing bolt.


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## Lone Rager (Dec 13, 2013)

Yeah. They do seem soft. There is some variation in the size of 5mm hex keys/bits so I try to find one that fits better and avoid worn ones. I also grind the end flat to remove any chamfer that would reduce full engagement with the bolt head. When tightening or loosening, I try to put only torque on the bolt and minimize the tendency to lever out the key from bolt head. If using the typical bent key, you can cut the short end down so it's just long enough to fully engage the bolt head. This minimized levering it out. If using a socket on a ratchet/torque wrench, an extension allows you to hold the head of the wrench with your opposite hand to oppose levering it out.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

Lone Rager said:


> Yeah. They do seem soft. There is some variation in the size of 5mm hex keys/bits so I try to find one that fits better and avoid worn ones. I also grind the end flat to remove any chamfer that would reduce full engagement with the bolt head. When tightening or loosening, I try to put only torque on the bolt and minimize the tendency to lever out the key from bolt head. If using the typical bent key, you can cut the short end down so it's just long enough to fully engage the bolt head. This minimized levering it out. If using a socket on a ratchet/torque wrench, an extension allows you to hold the head of the wrench with your opposite hand to oppose levering it out.


My Topeak ratchet tool seems to work the best with the short head. my torque wrench seems to be the worst.

Thanks

Does 5.5 mm exist, is there another type of pinch bolt with another type of head, or a sturdyer material?


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Never had a problem with 5mm, but then again I don't overtorque them. I'm sure it's a common enough sized bolt that you could find a substitute if necessary.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

Your allen key is probably slightly undersized, it's quite common.


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## LyNx (Oct 26, 2004)

This, except I used to over torque them I guess and broke a couple, replaced them with regular bolts from the hardware store, never an issue again, I've got an XT M760 crank that's over 10 years old, that's the one I put new bolts in, still going strong, no issues.



noapathy said:


> Never had a problem with 5mm, but then again I don't overtorque them. I'm sure it's a common enough sized bolt that you could find a substitute if necessary.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

Since I have a bike with S&S couplers, and a Ritchey breakaway bike, and a hard case to put them in and fly somewhere, I take the crank off the bike now and then. Not the same thing as installing a crank and letting it stay on the bike for ten years.

If you read the instructions, the pinch bolts should be at 12 nm to 14 nm. I use 13 newton metre of torque. I noticed that the head of the pinch bolt is wider than the other bolts on my bike. The crank arm seems like a good place to use the correct bolt. and yes you can order them. look at the photo in the first post. The top of the bolt is about the same diameter as most of the bolts on my bike. It has a bit of a cone shape and gets wider where the bolt head meets the crank arm.

Anyway, I was asking about the correct tool, best tool, for getting the pinch bolts on and off the bike? Or, better pinch bolts made of a harder metal.



LyNx said:


> This, except I used to over torque them I guess and broke a couple, replaced them with regular bolts from the hardware store, never an issue again, I've got an XT M760 crank that's over 10 years old, that's the one I put new bolts in, still going strong, no issues.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> Your allen key is probably slightly undersized, it's quite common.


That's what she said when I told her it was a 10mm...



chrisx said:


> The top of the bolt is about the same diameter as most of the bolts on my bike. It has a bit of a cone shape and gets wider where the bolt head meets the crank arm.
> 
> Anyway, I was asking about the correct tool, best tool, for getting the pinch bolts on and off the bike? Or, better pinch bolts made of a harder metal.


Then your question is answered. Higher quality 5mm hex wrench and some stainless bolts from the hardware store that don't have internally tapered heads...and don't use a ball head since those tend to strip waaaaay easier.

Personally I'd find a torque wrench difficult to use since the best results come from alternating between the bolts to get even tension on both rather than all the way tight one at a time.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

I avoided the hardware store bolts because they did not have the tapered head. The head tapers out, and gives a liitle more contact patch at the crank arm. Higher torque and smaller bolt head sounds a little to ghetto. Finding the correct tool could be a good answer.



noapathy said:


> Then your question is answered.


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> I avoided the hardware store bolts because they did not have the tapered head. The head tapers out, and gives a liitle more contact patch at the crank arm. Higher torque and smaller bolt head sounds a little to ghetto. Finding the correct tool could be a good answer.


5mm hex (again).


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

Bondhus makes a gold guard series that run a little bigger than most any other hex key. They are great for things like this when you question if you're using the correct tool or if you need an SAE instead of a metric. They're pretty affordable and US built. 

Tightening and loosing them in sequence will help avoide stripping them as well. If you loosen one all the way then the opposite gets really tight and is more easily damaged. Same goes for install.


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## alexbn921 (Mar 31, 2009)

It seems like shimano bolts have a loose fit on most hex tools. I use Wiha as my go to set.
Bondhus is another brand making great tools.
This article has the actual measurements.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/bike-allen-keys-42917/

I use this set with a dial torque wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002U0L9LW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

alexbn921 said:


> Bondhus is another brand making great tools.


I bought a couple of set of Bondhus keys a year or so ago and I'm happy with them. Quality seems spot on.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I like a rachet for crank bolts


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-38099-GoldGuard-Ballpoint-L-Wrench/dp/B000E7ZQIA








https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/bike-allen-keys-42917/
¨ So why is that so many of us will invest in other bicycle-specific tools, but make do with cheap L-shaped Allen keys or worse, a multi-tool? ¨
good article

¨	
Sample 1

Sample 2

Sample 3

Mean average

Bondhus Standard

5.014

5.002

5.007

5.008

Bondhus ProGuard

5.007

5.007

Bondhus ProGold

4.998

5.002

5.000

Park Tool (Bondhus)

5.004

4.994

4.983

4.994
¨

thank you sir,


customfab said:


> Bondhus makes a gold guard series that run a little bigger than most any other hex key. They are great for things like this when you question if you're using the correct tool or if you need an SAE instead of a metric. They're pretty affordable and US built.
> 
> Tightening and loosing them in sequence will help avoide stripping them as well. If you loosen one all the way then the opposite gets really tight and is more easily damaged. Same goes for install.


I considered using a #8 bolt. The #8s in my tool box have a thinner head than the pinch bolt. The black bolt in the photo did not come from Home depot. The washer on the black bolt appears to be to wide to fit into the hole on the crank arm of my 770, 985, or 9020. The Shimano washer takes up the entire width of the hole.

The crank arm would be a good place to do it right.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

chrisx said:


> https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/bike-allen-keys-42917/
> ¨ So why is that so many of us will invest in other bicycle-specific tools, but make do with cheap L-shaped Allen keys or worse, a multi-tool? ¨
> good article
> 
> ...


It's funny to see that article pop up from time to time, I provided most of the data for that article.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

customfab said:


> It's funny to see that article pop up from time to time, I provided most of the data for that article.


I never sent rep before, if I can figure it out, you deserve some.
thanks


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## the-one1 (Aug 2, 2008)

I replaced those bolts with brake caliper bolts. The heads are more beefy on the brake bolts.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

*Note to self*

Buy Bondhus 5mm hex wrench
and
check out brake caliper bolts for usefullness.

Stripping a pinch bolt as you pack you bike into the case a week before a trip, or at the airport could be a lot different things, problems to solve.


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

My 4mm stem bolts are crazy sloppy... feels like they're on the verge of stripping any time I touch them. 

I work in automotive any basically any hex tool from any brand will work with the hex fasteners we use. My snapon set fits like my husky set. The sloppy bike stuff sort of drives me nuts.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

One Pivot said:


> My 4mm stem bolts are crazy sloppy... feels like they're on the verge of stripping any time I touch them.
> 
> I work in automotive any basically any hex tool from any brand will work with the hex fasteners we use. My snapon set fits like my husky set. The sloppy bike stuff sort of drives me nuts.


Wow thought I was talking to myself again when I was reading that.

I have a bad habit of getting stainless bolts from the hardware store because bike stuff just feels so cheap and sloppy. Some worse than others.

My stuff is MAC and MATCO. The snapon guy was told where to go a few years ago (was always a prick).

One thing I have noticed is what you have, hardware store tools dont feel any better really than high priced stuff from the trucks unless your getting more specialized tools and tool boxes.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## One Pivot (Nov 20, 2009)

Dont get me started on snapon. Ive sold off probably 80% of that stuff! I do a lot of matco now, and gearwrench, but Im under the impression theres a lot of crossover between those two. 

I have a decent ace hardware close by, I think I'll do the same and use their bolts.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

One Pivot said:


> Dont get me started on snapon. Ive sold off probably 80% of that stuff! I do a lot of matco now, and gearwrench, but Im under the impression theres a lot of crossover between those two.
> 
> I have a decent ace hardware close by, I think I'll do the same and use their bolts.


Ya there is a lot of crossover, some form of partnership there. A lot stuff made for them so you find both markings. Matco is where I have my credit line as I got out of the profession several years ago only to regret selling my tools and have to buy new when I went back a couple years back.

I visit harbor freight for home stuff and bought the 1/2 "impact" sockets from there.

My best bang for buck tools though, ryobi cordless impacts, both the half and the smaller chucked one for 1/4-3/8. Those have made me more money due to saved time than any other tool I own.

You want a fun tool, shop owner bought matcos giant 1/2 cordless impact. Makes my 1/2 Mac impact look like my small cordless Ryobi.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> Buy Bondhus 5mm hex wrench
> and
> check out brake caliper bolts for usefullness.
> 
> Stripping a pinch bolt as you pack you bike into the case a week before a trip, or at the airport could be a lot different things, problems to solve.


Why on earth would you only buy a single hex wrench? Get a set. They're not that expensive unlike a lot of actual bike specific stuff. Hit up amazon.


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

Lowes sells the Bondhus kits under a different name, not sure if they are Kobalt, but the plastic case is blue. I've got both metric and SAE and they are all very tight with bolts that are not crap.

I've also got the Kobalt flip-out and the t-handle allens, they all have the same fit.

I've replaced pinch and caliper bracket bolts with black titanium from Toronto Cycles. The fit is spot on, no fear of stripping the bolts.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

One Pivot said:


> I work in automotive any basically any hex tool from any brand will work with the hex fasteners we use. My snapon set fits like my husky set. The sloppy bike stuff sort of drives me nuts.


I think you have a point. This isn't a problem you encounter in industry. Bike stuff must be cheap shite! And no brand seems to be exempt. I had Specialized lock-on grips that had a fastening bolt that was so soft it was unusable. I actually sent them back to Specialized and told them I didn't want them replaced, just keep them. Also had rotor bolts that rounded at the slightest touch.


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

I've been wanting some stainless hardware, more for corrosion issues in winter than anything else. But less rounding/stripping is always good too.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

I will be able to visit Socket Products
in a couple of weeks. On like San Diego, Seattle has most every flavor.

Stainless is on your bike because it looks good, not for strength.



dundundata said:


> I've been wanting some stainless hardware, more for corrosion issues in winter than anything else. But less rounding/stripping is always good too.


grade 8 looks to be about 4 times stronger
but they rust quickly, if you care about your good looks.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx
Head Marking	Grade and
Material	Nominal Size Range
(inches)	Mechanical Properties
Proof Load
(psi)	Min. Yield Strength
(psi)	Min. Tensile Strength
(psi)

No Markings	
Grade 2
Low or medium carbon steel	1/4" thru 3/4"	55,000	57,000	74,000
Over 3/4" thru 1-1/2"	33,000	36,000	60,000

3 Radial Lines	
Grade 5
Medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered	1/4" thru 1"	85,000	92,000	120,000
Over 1" thru 1-1/2"	74,000	81,000	105,000

6 Radial Lines	
Grade 8
Medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered	1/4" thru 1-1/2"	120,000	130,000	150,000

Grade A325
Carbon or Alloy Steel with or without Boron	1/2" thru 1-1/2"	85,000	92,000	120,000
Stainless markings vary. Most stainless is non-magnetic	
18-8 Stainless
Steel alloy with 17-19% Chromium and 8-13% Nickel	All Sizes thru 1" 20,000 Min. 65,000 Typical	65,000 Min. 100,000 - 150,000 Typical


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> Stainless is on your bike because it looks good, not for strength.


It's stainless because it's strong enough and doesn't rust, which is kind of important when you're talking about something that'll be used in adverse conditions. Wanna never remove your parts until the bolts rust through, feel free to use something else. glhf


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Stainless is a lot stronger than you think. Grade 8 is for forces 10x that of what any component of a bike will ever see.

Stainless is More than strong enough for our purposes and MUCH stronger than a lot of the normal bike hardware (excluding caliper mounting bolts). Plus doesn't corrode easily compared to other versions.

As well as titanium is often used in place of steel for weight savings, even less strength than stainless. My 29er had a lot of titanium hardware including the Shimano pinch bolts and never an issue.


chrisx said:


> I will be able to visit Socket Products
> in a couple of weeks. On like San Diego, Seattle has most every flavor.
> 
> Stainless is on your bike because it looks good, not for strength.
> ...


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

RAKC Ind said:


> Stainless is a lot stronger than you think.


Reread first post, take time to figure out what that means.

Quality posting is better than high post count


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

I did read the first post, but if you had an understanding of the application and intensions you'd have a clue to the fact going grade 8 on a bicycle is totally pointless and in hit application stainless steel is more than sufficient while not rusting to hell after the first water puddle.


chrisx said:


> Reread first post, take time to figure out what that means.
> 
> Quality posting is better than high post count


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

This thread is about stainless bolts that are not strong enough, and the best tools to use.

Ok, the lads are posting at midnight on saturday. As your mind clears up on sunday, let us get back on track.



noapathy said:


> It's stainless because it's strong enough and doesn't rust, which is kind of important when you're talking about something that'll be used in adverse conditions. Wanna never remove your parts until the bolts rust through, feel free to use something else. glhf


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

Stick to something you understand, Lights perhaps



RAKC Ind said:


> I did read the first post, but if you had an understanding of the application and intensions you'd have a clue to the fact going grade 8 on a bicycle is totally pointless and in hit application stainless steel is more than sufficient while not rusting to hell after the first water puddle.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

chrisx said:


> Stick to something you understand, Lights perhaps


Wow where's the popcorn, go drink your coffee or something and let those of us that ACTUALLY know what we are talking about help the guy. FYI I'm and ASE tech and was industrial maintanence for years. Every bike in my garage I've built and maintain. Like many here posting actual helpful information for the OP and not Google copy and paste.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

You are still toasted from last night. When you sober up, reread the whole thread.
It seems important to understand the problem, before you post an answer.



RAKC Ind said:


> Wow where's the popcorn, go drink your coffee or something and let those of us that ACTUALLY know what we are talking about help the guy. FYI I'm and ASE tech and was industrial maintanence for years. Every bike in my garage I've built and maintain. Like many here posting actual helpful information for the OP and not Google copy and paste.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

chrisx said:


> You are still toasted from last night. When you sober up, reread the whole thread.
> It seems important to understand the problem, before you post an answer.


I'm a partier man, hard core!!! Spent the night taking my 4 and 11yr old boys to see the new Avengers movie. We know how to have fun on a Saturday night! Lol

But seriously though, never said grade 8 was bad, just overkill. Stainless (or even standard metric hardened stuff from hardware store) is plenty. Most bike hardware is soft stuff, including those pinch bolts (seem especially soft) so it's not hard to get something better. No reason to take others saying grade 8 is total over kill like some challenge of your manhood or something. 

That's why I said go drink your coffee, like me your just grouchy in the early parts of the day.

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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> This thread is about stainless bolts that are not strong enough, and the best tools to use.
> 
> Ok, the lads are posting at midnight on saturday. As your mind clears up on sunday, let us get back on track.


Let me know when you're done insulting people and realize others around here actually know what we're talking about. Let's start with the thread title that demonstrates your "expertise". A specific tool for ONE 5MM BOLT?!? Hahahahahahaha, get real.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

Stripping a pinch bolt is a problem, at home or at the airport. A travel bike has the crank removed, a few times a year, more if your lucky. Most bikes have the crank removed to replace the bottom bracket. How do you get your bike in the case without removing the crank?

This is a real problem that can be solved.

First response is a good one, Maybe I will read it 10 times more.


Lone Rager said:


> Yeah. They do seem soft. There is some variation in the size of 5mm hex keys/bits so I try to find one that fits better and avoid worn ones. I also grind the end flat to remove any chamfer that would reduce full engagement with the bolt head. When tightening or loosening, I try to put only torque on the bolt and minimize the tendency to lever out the key from bolt head. If using the typical bent key, you can cut the short end down so it's just long enough to fully engage the bolt head. This minimized levering it out. If using a socket on a ratchet/torque wrench, an extension allows you to hold the head of the wrench with your opposite hand to oppose levering it out.


reply 11 is also a good one


customfab said:


> Bondhus makes a gold guard series that run a little bigger than most any other hex key. They are great for things like this when you question if you're using the correct tool or if you need an SAE instead of a metric. They're pretty affordable and US built.
> 
> Tightening and loosing them in sequence will help avoide stripping them as well. If you loosen one all the way then the opposite gets really tight and is more easily damaged. Same goes for install.


Bondhus see if I can remember that, Bondhus.



alexbn921 said:


> It seems like shimano bolts have a loose fit on most hex tools. I use Wiha as my go to set.
> Bondhus is another brand making great tools.
> This article has the actual measurements.
> https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/bike-allen-keys-42917/
> ...





customfab said:


> It's funny to see that article pop up from time to time, I provided most of the data for that article.





the-one1 said:


> I replaced those bolts with brake caliper bolts. The heads are more beefy on the brake bolts.


Stronger bolts, brake bolts, or grade 8, or more precisely, stronger bolt heads could help. This could be a good place to get a micrometer and make sure the bolt head is wide enough for a good contact patch, and not to wide to sink all the way into the hole on the crank arm.



One Pivot said:


> . My snapon set fits like my husky set. The sloppy bike stuff sort of drives me nuts.


Snapon, if you have that kind of money.

Let me know if I failed to quote a useful post.


noapathy said:


> Let me know when you're done insulting people


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> Stripping a pinch bolt is a problem, at home or at the airport. A travel bike has the crank removed, a few times a year, more if your lucky. Most bikes have the crank removed to replace the bottom bracket. How do you get your bike in the case without removing the crank?
> 
> This is a real problem that can be solved.
> 
> Let me know if I failed to quote a useful post.


Many of us take our cranks off several times per year either to switch chainrings, bottom brackets or a few other reasons (including travel). It's not uncommon.

The "problem" was "solved" very close to the start of the thread before all the rest of the jibber jabbering. Bondhus, Craftsman, Kobolt or any other quality hex wrench was and still is the answer (add bolts from hardware store for added peace of mind, but not really necessary).

In reality, with decent wrenches it's only a problem if you get in a hurry or don't understand how the two bolts work in tandem or just plain overtorqued them to begin with.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

I want to thank a couple of people for going through the trouble to explain things correctly and in a well informed way.

Well worth the wade.


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## customfab (Jun 8, 2008)

RAKC Ind said:


> Stainless is a lot stronger than you think. Grade 8 is for forces 10x that of what any component of a bike will ever see.
> 
> Stainless is More than strong enough for our purposes and MUCH stronger than a lot of the normal bike hardware (excluding caliper mounting bolts). Plus doesn't corrode easily compared to other versions.
> 
> ...


"stainless" is a pretty broad term and you can make crappy and great hardware out of several different stainless alloys. At the bottom end you've got 304 (this is 18-8 in the fastener world, or so I've been told) with a tensile of 73,000psi and a hardness of ~b70. On the high end you've got 17-4 that's 160,000 and C35. Now those two numbers don't tell the whole story but they definitely point out that not all stainless steel alloys are created equal. Some grades are pretty crappy to make bolts out of and others are great choices.


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## Flamingtaco (Mar 12, 2012)

This thread has been so riveting, it's been plain nuts!


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

I don't know why all bike part manufacturers insist on using special shaped bolt heads, other than saving a few grams, but they have no markings to indicate what the material or grade might be. Some are softer than others for sure. I like the Wera hex plus keys, they fit well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/

Generally bike screws can be replaced with standard metric socket head cap screws from the hardware store as long as the head diameters match.

Here is a good comparison I found of the different bolt grades: Keeping It All Together, Part 1



RAKC Ind said:


> Stainless is a lot stronger than you think. Grade 8 is for forces 10x that of what any component of a bike will ever see.


Stainless screws are not that strong compared to other screw materials. You can't say grade 8 is for 10x forces without knowing the size of the bolt and the safety factor that currently exists for the specific application. For this crank pinch bolt application, yes there is probably a lot more safety factor than the rear shock mounting bolts for example.



RAKC Ind said:


> Stainless is More than strong enough for our purposes and MUCH stronger than a lot of the normal bike hardware (excluding caliper mounting bolts). Plus doesn't corrode easily compared to other versions.


We don't know what normal bike hardware screws are made from since there are no markings on them. Most of the normal bike hardware is not stainless, or if it is has a coating of some kind.



RAKC Ind said:


> As well as titanium is often used in place of steel for weight savings, even less strength than stainless. My 29er had a lot of titanium hardware including the Shimano pinch bolts and never an issue.


Since there aren't really standard titanium bolts the exact grade varies by manufacturer, but generally the titanium used for screws is stronger than the standard 18-8 stainless steel screws.



customfab said:


> "stainless" is a pretty broad term and you can make crappy and great hardware out of several different stainless alloys. At the bottom end you've got 304 (this is 18-8 in the fastener world, or so I've been told) with a tensile of 73,000psi and a hardness of ~b70. On the high end you've got 17-4 that's 160,000 and C35. Now those two numbers don't tell the whole story but they definitely point out that not all stainless steel alloys are created equal. Some grades are pretty crappy to make bolts out of and others are great choices.


Agreed, but usually the only readily available metric screws are made from 18-8. If 17-4 screws were readily available I would use them, although they would probably be cost prohibitive compared to standard zinc plated steel screws.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

JustMtnB44 said:


> I don't know why all bike part manufacturers insist on using special shaped bolt heads, other than saving a few grams, but they have no markings to indicate what the material or grade might be. Some are softer than others for sure. I like the Wera hex plus keys, they fit well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/
> 
> Generally bike screws can be replaced with standard metric socket head cap screws from the hardware store as long as the head diameters match.
> 
> ...


I don't look much at grades (unless it truly matters in an application such as need for grade 8 etc)

But titanium hardware I bought in the past was far softer than the normal stainless I grab from Ace Hardware. Wasn't much better than the cheaper bike issued hardware.

The only place I consider an issue of needing more than standard Stainless is brake caliper mounting hardware.

But at the same time I'm doing something that many here will loose their minds over. Aluminum bolts for the rotors. On top of that I'm 270ish lbs and doing it. I don't ride DH or going bombing black rated stuff at Moab or Whistler on a regular basis so it's more than sufficiently strong enough to last the lifetime of the bike.










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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

RAKC Ind said:


> The only place I consider an issue of needing more than standard Stainless is brake caliper mounting hardware.
> 
> But at the same time I'm doing something that many here will loose their minds over. Aluminum bolts for the rotors. On top of that I'm 270ish lbs and doing it. I don't ride DH or going bombing black rated stuff at Moab or Whistler on a regular basis so it's more than sufficiently strong enough to last the lifetime of the bike.


So you are concerned about the strength of the screws holding the brake caliper on, but then chose the weakest possible material for the screws holding the brake rotor on? That doesn't make any sense but ok then.


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## RAKC Ind (Jan 27, 2017)

Yeah, not surprising it's makes no sense. On my trail bike I have no concern using stainless or titanium, no extension for rotor size involved. Would have to sheer them, no happening. My fat bike which has extensions to increase rotor size I wouldn't. Bolts can be bent then crack and fail. Not simply sheer off.

And the forces on rotor bolts are themselves is bad, it's sheering forces have to sheer 6 at once after breaking free from the forces holding the rotor against the hub.

If I was riding a downhill bike then no way.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Miker J (Nov 4, 2003)

Good stuff. Tuned in. I really dig the Bondhus specs. 

Wonder if that slight oversizing is typical of all higher end wrenches.

I will tell you that my set of Pedro P handle wrenches are a very loose fit on bolts. I'd like to get another set of tighter fits.

Wonder if the Park P handles are better?


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## life behind bars (May 24, 2014)

RAKC Ind said:


> it's sheering forces have to sheer 6 at once after breaking free from the forces holding the rotor against the hub.


Not quite. Usually one of the fasteners fails starting a cascade of failure in the remaining fasteners.


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## Mr Pig (Jun 25, 2008)

life behind bars said:


> Not quite. Usually one of the fasteners fails starting a cascade of failure in the remaining fasteners.


I have a Hope rear hub that has a broken rotor bolt hole. The rotor is held on with five bolts. Before I decided to use it like that I googled and found that other people had used even fewer rotor bolts without issue. I used that hub for a few years without any thought to the bolt and never had a problem.


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## chrisx (Mar 4, 2009)

Shimano fixed it, just buy a 12 speed

"Shimano says is both lighter and stiffer in part because there are* no pinchbolts *on the left crankarm. It's just pressed onto the BB spindle. Shimano has yet to provide any exact crankset weights."

New Shimano XTR 12-speed: What you need to know - Mtbr.com


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## dundundata (May 15, 2009)

Park p handle have good fit imo


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## noapathy (Jun 24, 2008)

chrisx said:


> Shimano fixed it, just buy a 12 speed
> 
> "Shimano says is both lighter and stiffer in part because there are* no pinchbolts *on the left crankarm. It's just pressed onto the BB spindle. Shimano has yet to provide any exact crankset weights."
> 
> New Shimano XTR 12-speed: What you need to know - Mtbr.com


Fail more.

Stripped a bolt? New crank! I'm guessing you get a new bike whenever you get a flat, too. :lol:


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## notso (Jan 22, 2015)

chrisx said:


> Does 5.5 mm exist, is there another type of pinch bolt with another type of head, or a sturdyer material?


a 13/64 hex key will be about .006" larger than 5mm (theoretical) approx. 5.15mm. 7/32 would be even closer to 5.5, but I doubt you will fit that in a 5mm socket head cap screw.


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## JustMtnB44 (Nov 8, 2004)

notso said:


> a 13/64 hex key will be about .006" larger than 5mm (theoretical) approx. 5.15mm.


13/64" is not a standard size hex key and a quick search did not turn any up.


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