# Bending Seat Rails



## EricD4 (May 11, 2008)

So, I'm not the biggest guy out there (6' 6", 235lbs), though I'm not the easiest on my equipment. I've had my new bike for about 2 months and have already bent the seat rails on two seats. One was a WTB Speed V and the other a Forte T1. I'm wondering what saddles some of the other bigger guys are riding and not destroying.

-E


----------



## biggoofy1 (Aug 24, 2009)

I run a WTB Vigo and i love it I have bent the rails on it once but the awesome thing about it is that the rails are replaceable $20 for new ones if you need them it takes like 5 min to swap in new rails


----------



## mtnbiker72 (Jan 22, 2007)

Look for cromoly rails...not just plain steel (Speed V). The Forte uses hollow titanium...total weight weenie stuff, not Clyde approved!

The WTB Vigo Race, Rocket V Race, SST Race (my $20 saddle from Jenson USA), and Pure V Race all use cromoly rails


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

are you sitting in rougher stuff?


----------



## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

pics of the rails would help... is the saddle sitting all the way back in the clamp or well centered? what post are you using? if the saddle is to far back you've got a lot of leverage... a set back post would help out a lot... this is very common for tall guys trying to make to small for them frames to "fit"

there are a few saddles out there with OS rails (DH saddles) that would prob do...

but if you are sitting while hitting bit stuff you're going to keep killing saddles... stand slightly and float over stuff.

best of luck 
mark


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I weigh 270 and have been as high as 300 and have never bent a saddle rail. I have a few WTB saddles amongst others. I keep the clamp mounted toward the back of the saddle where the majority of the weight is placed on the saddle. Most bent saddle rails I have seen had the saddle pushed rearward where the clamp is more under the front of the saddle. May as well put a crowbar on it. Simple physics at work.

If you need the saddle that far back, get a layback post, but get the clamp more under the back of the saddle if you want them to survive a while.


----------



## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

Maybe I sit too much while riding, but I've had problems bending rails as well, even when the saddle is fairly centered in the clamp.



donalson said:


> there are a few saddles out there with OS rails (DH saddles) that would prob do...


This is what I went with to stop the problem. I got a WTB Power V which has 8mm rails (instead of standard 7mm), it's been great. Very solid.


----------



## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

another option... you could go with a cheap seat post... your post would bend before the saddle would... maybe ;-)


----------



## watermoccasin (Jan 28, 2004)

I like the WTB Vigo with replaceable rails and the Aviator with 8mm oversized rails.

http://www.wtb.com/products/saddles/racing/vigo
http://www.wtb.com/products/saddles/performance/aviator/


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

bvibert said:


> Maybe I sit too much while riding, but I've had problems bending rails as well, even when the saddle is fairly centered in the clamp.


"Centered" is still applying leverage from where the bulk of your weight normally resides. For average weight riders, this isn't normally an issue, but bigs have to deal with issues like this when so many components are built with weight in mind. If you get the clamp directly under the back part of the saddle, it won't apply near as much force on the rails. If you need the saddle further back than that will allow, a setback post will allow you to mount the saddle forward in the clamp where it supports weight better and still have the saddle where you prefer it, for/aft.


----------



## Soupboy (Jan 13, 2004)

~255 buck nekkid these days and still rocking a trio of WTB Lazer V Ti saddles on my FS, SS and roadie...yet to bend one with the *newest* being 5yo. YMMV.

You're probably going to get more life of a Cro-mo or Ti saddle than lesser steel.


----------



## greasemeat (Oct 23, 2009)

Man just got back from ride and yes my SPEED V is bent again. Second one in weeks. I assumed the first one happened in a crash but this one I babied and still bent. Even made sure to put it exactly in the middle of the guide marks. What a joke. I'm calling it a crap product, if there needs to be a weight limit then STAMP it on there otherwise I want my money back.

Also my Juicy carbons started screaming bloody murder then finally stopped working, nearly wiped out. Wtf x2

Whats next


----------



## TreesHitMe (Jun 7, 2007)

I bent my WTB Speed V - I was 235 tops, this is before i started wearing a hydropack....i stay in the saddle for most climbs, and 'hover' on bumpy downhills. sometimes the saddle would bounce up hard, or I'd come down on it too hard...i'm just dealing w/ it for now until it gets too out of whack to use


----------



## enio (Jun 6, 2007)

Get some higher end cromo rail saddle, it will be tougher and a better ride overall.. if something isn't up to my standards or it fails i look to upgrade it for a better model. i like wtb saddles,have laser v, and today in mail arrived my new pure v race(i like the laser v shape tiny bit better, maybe it's just that im use to it more. got only one ride on pure v so it's still early to tell for sure. new saddle goes to a new bike when it arrives )


----------



## greasemeat (Oct 23, 2009)

U know I'm wondering if its the Joplin doing it. Both times it's been the right side rail, the allen key tightening bolt is on that side of the Joplin clamp. The round rotating plastic part of the clamp (not the gold metal) gets stuck on the right side, it doesnt rotate as easy as the left.. maybe it's getting stuck & keeping the saddle from just tilting back and instead the rail bends..

Ordered that Aviator Race DH one with 8mm cromo; put the hard racing Shadow V back on for now


----------



## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

donalson said:


> another option... you could go with a cheap seat post... your post would bend before the saddle would... maybe ;-)


You might be on to something there. This happened to me today.









At least the rails didn't bend.


----------



## greasemeat (Oct 23, 2009)

Just got a chro-moly oversized 8mm rail WTB Aviator. The clamp doesn't really close around the rails very well. I've kinda lost confidence & expect this thing to bend at any time


----------



## dan0 (Oct 12, 2005)

have the same issues, tried all the versions of the pureV didnt make any difference
now i have a vigo, so far so good , been a month no bends yet


----------



## Flboy (Mar 18, 2008)

GO Vigo sweet saddle with replacable rails. I have bent many saddle's rails. sdg, selle italia, wtb, specialized. I think it has to with being heavy, maybe sitting at the wrong times, or hitting the saddle while landing a jump or drop.


----------



## Instigator (May 10, 2006)

shadow conspiracy crow seat, I'm around 300 and havent busted it in the 2 years i've had it. obviously its a bmx seat, but its soooo burly.


----------



## tommignon (Jan 27, 2010)

Id take a real good look at the Seat Post. it might be pinching the rail on the front or rear and causing it to have a fatigue spot instead of distributing the weight across entire rail.


----------



## coachjon (Jun 13, 2007)

i was trashing saddles racing CX so i went with a WTB Power V and it is beastly. on the road or trails i can run whatever but the jumping back on the bike was too much in CX


----------



## donalson (Apr 13, 2004)

bvibert said:


> You might be on to something there. This happened to me today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


youch... bet it was a long standing ride out lol... every one i've bent was right above the seat post clamp...


----------



## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

donalson said:


> youch... bet it was a long standing ride out lol...


Yeah, it was. I tied it back on using my spare tubes though, so I could still rest on the seat a little. It was still far from functioning though and I had to stand most of the time.


----------



## tenbsmith (Dec 31, 2004)

My current solution to bending saddle rails is the Forte Classic Saddle, you can usually get these for under $40 at Performance. 

How do you get WTB to replace saddle rails? Just call them or what? I think I've still got an old Rocket V, on which I'd like to replace rails.


----------



## dysfunction (Aug 15, 2009)

bvibert said:


> Yeah, it was. I tied it back on using my spare tubes though, so I could still rest on the seat a little. It was still far from functioning though and I had to stand most of the time.


I busted a quick release clamp and had to stand the whole way out (all uphill too)... I feel for ya, that sucks!


----------



## dan0 (Oct 12, 2005)

tenbsmith said:


> My current solution to bending saddle rails is the Forte Classic Saddle, you can usually get these for under $40 at Performance.
> 
> How do you get WTB to replace saddle rails? Just call them or what? I think I've still got an old Rocket V, on which I'd like to replace rails.


only the Vigo has replaceable rails


----------



## jeffj (Jan 13, 2004)

I'm not trying to pick on anybody here, so please don't take it that way. Just trying to be clear.










This is a classic reason why the post or saddle will fail. This pic is worth a thousand words on this subject, but I'll add a few more 

First, earlier in this thread, you said you had it "centered". That may be "centered" between the nose of the saddle and the rear of the saddle, but it is definitely not centered on the portion of the rails where the saddle is meant to be clamped. Even if it was centered there, it will still be at risk for failure under us big-boned (with big meat wrapped around those big bones) riders.

Many, if not most, failures like this could be avoided. Lightweight riders can, usually but not always, get away with it. Bigs are risking (and experiencing) failures on a regular basis.

A small upright piano weighs 300-400lbs. Many of us are close to, or into that range. If I wanted to support a small piano, I wouldn't cantilever it on a couple of spindly rails like that and send it rolling down a hill without expecting some occasional carnage  .

The other factor is technique. I see a lot of riders sitting when they should be standing.


----------



## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

jeffj said:


> I'm not trying to pick on anybody here, so please don't take it that way. Just trying to be clear.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I knew you'd pick on the picture when I posted it. The clamp slipped when it failed, that's not where normally resides. It's normally centered on the section of the rails where the clamp attaches. That particular seatpost is pretty old, so I don't think it's a big surprise that it failed. Yes, I probably should have a seatpost with more setback, and maybe I'll buy one someday. For now the 8mm rails on my current saddle are holding up fine, and I don't anticipate breaking the clamps like happened above to be a normal occurrence (especially with less fatigued parts). I may try sliding the saddle a bit further forward from where it is now though, just to be safe. 

You're absolutely correct about not standing enough though. I tend to hover over the saddle a lot instead of getting all the way up, I also don't like pedaling while standing.


----------

