# Carbon bar: can be cut with a pipe cutter?



## Xave (Oct 7, 2004)

Anyone know if you can cut down a carbon handlebar with a plumbers adjustable copper pipe cutter. It makes sense, it wouldnt cause any fraying and would leave a nice neat edge.


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## KERKOVEJ (Jan 23, 2004)

*I would...*



xkelsall said:


> Anyone know if you can cut down a carbon handlebar with a plumbers adjustable copper pipe cutter. It makes sense, it wouldnt cause any fraying and would leave a nice neat edge.


I would use the smallest toothed hacksaw blade you can find. That is what we use at the shop I work at to cut down carbon steer-tubes.


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## jparker164 (Mar 2, 2004)

I'd go with what Jeff said. The pipe cutter should work too though I would think. You can get a cleaner edge by wrapping the bar with tape before cutting.


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## TR (Jan 12, 2004)

A grit saw blade works better (like a piece of wire with girt adhered to it).
you should be able to find one at the hardware store.
And make sure you put some tape around the area where you want to cut.


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## Upandatem (Apr 11, 2004)

Just curious, how does the tape work to produce a cleaner cut?

Cheers.


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## jparker164 (Mar 2, 2004)

Upandatem said:


> Just curious, how does the tape work to produce a cleaner cut?
> 
> Cheers.


Fraying is caused when individual fibers are pulled out of the matrix by the blade. Tape holds them in


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## TR (Jan 12, 2004)

Not sure about a cleaner cut but it will stop the blade sliding on the surface when you start cutting. I use tape on both aluminium and carbon when cutting.


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## Dartman (Jan 5, 2004)

Nooooo!!!!! Use a fine tooth hacksaw blade. Borrow a threadless steerer cutting guide if you can or use a mitre box.

Also cut off half of what you think you want at first. You can't put it back on. I cut one down a bit too far once. Learn from my mistakes.

Mike


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## Irritated_muppet (Sep 5, 2004)

a pip cutter will just crush the bar, you need a hachsaw, with a guide, it would be best to take it to you LBS to have them cut it, if you bought it from them, they should do it no charge


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## mtb_biker (Jan 27, 2004)

Irritated_muppet said:


> a pip cutter will just crush the bar, you need a hachsaw, with a guide, it would be best to take it to you LBS to have them cut it, if you bought it from them, they should do it no charge


Agreed, I wouldn't consider using a pipe cutter. A hacksaw with a guide & tape is the best method.


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## loonyOne (Dec 25, 2003)

Tubing cutter...BAAAD!! A hack saw is a good way to do it, provided you can find a blade with a fine enough tooth count. As mentioned before, a threadless steerer cutting guide will keep the cut really straight. I dunno about the tape suggestion...I understand that it keeps the fibers together, but what about the now-loose fiber ends sticking to the tape and peeling off...?? Maybe some of the new breed of masking tape that has the same adhesive as 3M Post-it notes. My personal opine is to track down your local archery store and have them cut it down. Most archery shops in the modern age are quite familiar with cutting carbon fiber arrows and have the appropriate cutting blades and equipment to do so, and the technique/experience to cut the exact length needed and keep it square. Also as stated before, cut shorter the first time around...or, measure twice, cut once. Good luck!


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## OregonXC (Sep 1, 2004)

loonyOne said:


> Tubing cutter...BAAAD!! A hack saw is a good way to do it, provided you can find a blade with a fine enough tooth count. As mentioned before, a threadless steerer cutting guide will keep the cut really straight. I dunno about the tape suggestion...I understand that it keeps the fibers together, but what about the now-loose fiber ends sticking to the tape and peeling off...?? Maybe some of the new breed of masking tape that has the same adhesive as 3M Post-it notes. My personal opine is to track down your local archery store and have them cut it down. Most archery shops in the modern age are quite familiar with cutting carbon fiber arrows and have the appropriate cutting blades and equipment to do so, and the technique/experience to cut the exact length needed and keep it square. Also as stated before, cut shorter the first time around...or, measure twice, cut once. Good luck!


Use a Dremel Tool with a cut-off bit


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## Santa Fe NotsoSlim (Dec 23, 2004)

xkelsall said:


> Anyone know if you can cut down a carbon handlebar with a plumbers adjustable copper pipe cutter. It makes sense, it wouldnt cause any fraying and would leave a nice neat edge.


NOOO! As previously said, it will crush the bar (carbon has good tensile strength, but not compression. Wrap it in tape (tight) and use a carbon bladed hacksaw and saw all the way thru (no snapping it at the end). should be fine


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## JeffRouse (Nov 2, 2004)

*I'll second that*



OregonXC said:


> Use a Dremel Tool with a cut-off bit


I used a dremel to trim my carbon bars down, It made a clean fast cut.


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## Xave (Oct 7, 2004)

*Thanks*

Thanks everybody for your help. I?ll ditch the pipe cutter idea and stick with the fine hacksaw with tape and jig. but not clamp it as this will crush it.


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## Xave (Oct 7, 2004)

*Btw*

By the way, I intend cutting it down to the same width as my flat bars ie 580mm which is fine for me. Any reason why I would be wrong in this?


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## lithiapark (Jan 31, 2004)

*cutting a carbon bar with a pipe cutter*

I have tried this. The very superficial layer of carbon is cut just fine. The bar doesn't crush. The problem is that when you get deeper, the fact that the outer cut layers have to keep spreading apart because of the V-shaped notch being made makes them delaminate from one another, and this spreads out an eighth of an inch or more. Carbon fiber won't flow around the groove being cut like metal will (if you use a pipe cutter on a metal or plastic pipe you'll notice that the edge of the cut is raised when you are done). I wanted to cut 3/4 inch off each end of my carbon bar, and thought I would cut off 1/2 inch with a pipe cutter to see if it would work. It didn't. Cut the rest off with a hacksaw and was fine.


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## F5000sl (Aug 8, 2003)

I have done mine a few times, 
Use a a few layers of masking tape on the bars to help keep the carbon ends from fraying too much.

Easton has a "how to" on their site and recommends using at least a used a 28 tooth per inch saw blade.

Also do yourself a favor and seal the ends up with some nail polish or clear paint.
Even still the carbon ends will now be more subseptible to crashes, so I bought some 
Hope Doctors. These things are worth their weight in gold.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=GR703Z00

Good luck.


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## Dartman (Jan 5, 2004)

loonyOne said:


> I dunno about the tape suggestion...I understand that it keeps the fibers together, but what about the now-loose fiber ends sticking to the tape and peeling off...?? Maybe some of the new breed of masking tape that has the same adhesive as 3M Post-it notes.


There is! 3M Scotch Painters Tape. It's blue masking tape with a lighter adhesive so it's removable without pulling paint off with it or sticking to window glass. I use it to cover the end of the stanchion on Monster T's so I can get the oil seal on without tearing it up.

Mike


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## Hecubus (Jan 12, 2004)

Just about all manufacturers will recomend a hacksaw with a 28 tooth per inch blade or more to cut carbon parts. You will need a saw guide of some sort. I would recommend getting or borrowing the park steerer tube guide which works for bars and seat posts as well. A dremel with cutting wheel will also leave a very fine cut but make sure you have a steady hand.


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